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MODERN GEOGRAPHY.
A
DESCRIPTION
OF THE
EMPIRES, KINGDOMS, STATES, AND COLONIES;
WITH THE
OCEANS, SEAS, AND ISLES;
IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD:
INCLUDING THE MOST RECENT DISCOVERIES AND
POLITICAL ALTERATIONS,
ee
——
DIGESTED ON A NEW PLAN.
EEE
BY JOHN PINKERTON.
- ay Ses,
Oo nna a a
THE ASTRONOMICAL INTRODUCTION
BY M. LA —
ae
Neer omeee i. ance
CAREFULLY ABRIDGED FROM THE LARGE: 1¥
IN TWO VOLUMES, QUARTO.
WITH MAPS.
To the whole are added,
A Catalogue of the left Maps, and Books of Travels and Voyages, in all Loomis
And an ample Index. :
THE THIRD EDITION,
REVISED AND ENLARGED BY THE AUTHOR.
aaa: nanan
’ LONDON:
PRINTED FOR T. CADRLL AND W. DAVIES, STRAND; AND Lowoay, sly
QAME, AND BROWN, PATEGNOSTER-ROW, ag
syeas
Rt: Riss? ere
Avert tog
$f rc. THEA
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Strahan and P;
refton,
ters-Street, London,
Prin
PREFACE,
i importance of geography as a fcience, and the exuberant
variety of knowledge and amufement which it exhibits, are
themes too trivial for argument or illuftration. Eagerly attached
to this ftudy from his early years, the author always cherifhed a
hope that he might contribute his labours to its advancement. For
much remained to be done; and many literary men have long ad-
mitted, that great advantages might be derived from a new and ame
proved fyftem of modern geography, the lateft popular works of
this nature not only abounding with numerous and grofs miltakes,
but being fo imperfe& in their original plans,.that the chief geoe
graphical topics have been facrificed to long details of hiltory, chro«
nology, and commercial regulations, wholly extrancous to the very
nature of fuch a defign. When ta this it is added, that the moit
recent and important difcoverics are either omitted, imperfectly
illu(trated, or fo defectively arranged as to embarrafs and baffle the
sefearch of the moft patient inquirer, there is no reafon to be fure
prifed at the general confeffion, that fuch compilations are only
ufed becaufe there is no better extant.
The fucceflive difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean, and other parts
of the globe, have, within thefe few years acquired fuch a certainty
and confiftency, that they may now be admitted and arranged, in
’ aregular and precife diftribution of the parts of the habitable worlds
while the recent difcoveries of La Peroufe, Vancouver, and other
navigators, nearly complete the exact delineation of the continental
fhores. No period of time could be more favourable to the ap=
pearance of a new fy{tem of geography, than the beginning of anew
century, after the elapfe of the eighteenth, which will be memorable
in all ages, from the gigantic progrefs of every fcience, and in pare
ticular of geographical information; nor lefs from the furprinng
changes which have taken place in moft countries of Europe, and
which of themfelves render a new defeription indifpenfable, Whole
kingdoms have ‘been annihilated ; grand'provinces transferred and
fuch a general alteration has taken place in {tates and boundaries,
that a geographical work publithed five years ago may be pronounced
to be already antiquated,
Aa A new
PREFACE.
A new fyftem of geography is alfo {pecially authorized and att
thenticated, by the fingular advantage of feveral important books of
travels having appeared within 'thefe few years, which introduce far
more light and precifion into our knowledge of many regions. The
embaffies to China, ‘Tibet, and Ava, for example, prefent frefh and
authentic materials, without which recourfe muft have been had to
more remote and doubtful information; and the Birman empire is
unknown to all fyftems of geography. The Refearches of the
Afiatic Society, and other late works, diffufe a new radiance over
Hindoftan, and the adjacent countries. ‘The labours of the African
Society, the Travels of Park, Browne, and Barrow, have given
more precifion to our imperfect knowledge of Africa: and the
journeys of Hearne and Mackenzie have contributed to difclofe the
northern boundaries of America. In fhort, it may be fafely af-
firmed, that more important books of Travels and other fources of
geographical information, have appeared within thefe few years,
than at any period whatever of literary hiftory.
Nor muft the rapid advances of natural hiftory. be forgotten,
‘which now confer fuch fuperior precifion on the natural geography
‘of moft countries. Not only have zoology and botany received the
“greate{t improvements; but geology and mineralogy have, within
-thefe twenty years, become entirely new and grand feiences; the
‘fubftances being accurately atranged, and defcribed with fuch clear-
‘nefs, that throughout the literary world they are exatly known and
difcriminated. ; ;
Yet even with fuch advantages geography is far from being per=
fe&; and the familiar exclamation of D’Anville in his old age may
{till be adopted: * Ah! my friends, there are many errors in
geography.” ‘This fcience may indeed be regarded as imperfect im
its véry nature, as no reafonable hope can be entertained that all
the habitable lands fhail, at any period of time, pafs under a trigo-
nometrical furvey, the only ftandard of complete exaétneis. The
chief defe€ts are the interior parts of Africa, and many portions
even of the fhores; Tibet, and fome other central regions of Afia,
way, even Perfia, Arabia, and Afiatic Turkey; the weftern parts
of North America ; and the Spanith fettlements in that part of the
new continent; with the central and fouthern parts of South Ame-
rica. Of New Holland little is known, except the fhores: and
many difcoveries remain to be made in the Pacific Ocean, partti-
cularly the extent and interior part of New Guinea, and other large
lands in that quarter. Even in Europe the geography of Spain
and Portugal is very imperfeét, though not fo defective as that of
European Turkey; nor can we loudly boaft while, as Major Ren-
ncll informs us, there is no exact chart of the Britifh Channel;
and the trigonometrical furvey, fo far as it has extended, has de=
tected grofs errors in the maps of the counties. We have indecd
been generally more attentive to remote regions, than to our native
country; and could a new fyftem have been publifhed with more
- advantages, than in the kingdom which has given birth to the
greateft modern difcoveries and in provements in geography?
*
PREFACE. v
- ‘With the advantages, above enumerated, of new and important
difcoveries, of recent and authentic intelligence, and of the parti-
cular period of publication, there cannot be any great claim of merit
in prefenting a more complete fyftem of geography, than has yet
appeared in any language ; for the Spaniards and Italians have been
dormant in this fcience, the French works of La Croix and others
are too brief, while the German compilations of Bufching, Fabri,
Ebeling, &c. &c. are of a moft tremendous prolixity, arranged in
the moft taftelefs manner, and exceeding, in dry names and trifling
details, even the minutenefs of our Gazetteers. A defcription of
Europe in fourteen quarto volumes may well be contrafted with
Strabo’s defcription of the world in one volume: and geography
feems to be that branch of fcience in which the ancients have efta~
blithed a more claffical reputation than the moderns. Every great.
literary monument may be faid to be erected by compilation, from
the time of Herodotus to that of Gibbon, and from the age of
Homer to that of Shakfpeare; but in the ufe of the materials there is
awide difference between Strabo, Arrian, Ptolemy, Paufanias, Mela,
Pliny, and other celebrated ancient names, and modern general geos
gtaphers ; all of whom, except D’Anville, feem under-graduaces in
literature, without the diftinguifhed talents, or reputation, which
have accompanied almoft every other literary exertion. Yet it may
fafely be affirmed, that a production of real value in univerfal geoe
graphy, requires a wider extent of various knowledge than any other
literary department, as embracing topics of the moft multifarious
defcription. There is however one name, that of D’Anville, pe-
culiarly and juftly eminent in this fcience ; but his reputation is
chiefly derived from his maps, and from his illuftrations of various
parts of ancient geography. In fpecial departments Goffellin, and
other foreigners, have alfo been recently diftinguifhed ; nor is it
neceflary to remind the reader of the great merit of Rennell and
Vincent in our own country.
With fuch examples, the author confefles his ambitious defire that
the prefent work may, at leaft, be regarded as more free from ‘de-
fe&ts than any preceding fyftem of modern geography. By the
liberality of the publifhers, no expence has been {pared in collecting
materials from all quarters; and the affemblage of books and maps
would amount to anexpence hardlycredible. If there be any failure,
the blame mutt folely reft with the author; who being however
‘converfant with the fubje&, from his ¢arly youth, when he was ace
cuftomed to draw maps, while engaged in thesftudy of hiftory, and
never having neglected his devotion to this important fcience, he
hopes that the ample materials will be found not to have been en«
trufted to inadequate hands. He may affirm that the moft fedulous:
attention has been exerted, in the feleGtion and arrangement of the
ott interefting topics ; and he hopes that the novelty of the plan
will not only be recommended by greater eafe and expedition, in
ufing this work as a book of reference; but by a more ftri&t and
claflical conne€tion, fo as to.afford more cleay-and fatisfactory in-
bi nue A 3 formation
PREFACE.
formation on a general perufal. The nature and cafes of the plan
fhall be explained in the prcliminary obfervations, as being inti-
mately connected with other topics there inveftigated. It may.
here faffice to obferve, that the objects mof effentially allied wit
each other, inftead of being d f{perfed as fragments, are here gathered
into diflin& heads or chaptirs, arranged in uniform progrefs, ex-_
cept where particular circumf{tances commanded a deviation : and
inftead of pretended hiftories, and prolix commercial documents,
the chief attention is devoted to fubjects ftri€tly geographical, but
which in preceding fyftems have often appeared in the form of a
mere lift of names, the evanefcent thades of knowledge. Meagre
details of hiftory can be of no fervice even to youth, and are foreign
to the name and nature of geography, which, like chronology, only
afpires to illuftrate hiftory ; and, without encroaching upon other
provinces, has more than fufficient difficulties to encounter. The
States are arranged according to their comparative importance, as it
is proper that the objects which defezve moft attention fhould be
treated at the greateft length, and claim the earlieft obfervation of
the fiudent.
Mr. Pond has rather chofen to tranflate the able introduc-
tion of M. La Croix, to the French editions of this work, than to
difplay his own talents on the parts of aftronomy, which are con-
nected with geography. For the botany of the feveral countries
this work is indebted to Mr. Arthur Aikin, a zealous and intelli-
ent cultivator of natural hiftory. It may be neceffary to remind
the unlearned reader, that the Latin names in this part are una-
voidable, becaufe plants not known in England muft rarely admit
of Englifh appellations. |
Amid {t other advantages already indicated, the regular references
to the authorities, here obferved for the firft time in any geogra-
phical fyftem, will be admitted to be a confiderable improvement,
not only as imparting authenticity to the text, but as enabling the
reader to recur to the beft original works, when he is defirous of
more minute information. Yet this improvement ig fo fimple that
the omiffion might feem matter of furprize, were it not that former
works of this nature will generally be found to be blindly copied
from preceding fyftems, with the fole claim of fuperiority in error,
as muft happen in fuch cafes, where miftakes multiply, and an old
hallucination becomes the father of a numerous progeny. The ftrict
quotation of authorities might alfo be rather dangerous in erroneous
details; and the omiflion is as convenient, as it is to pafs in filence
geographical doubts of great importance, which might prove perie
lous ordeals of fcience. Accultomed to the labours and pleafures
of learning merely for his own mental,improvement, as the delight
of his eafe, the relief of care, the folace of misfortune, the author
never hefitates to avow his doubts, or his ignorance; nor fcruples
to facrifice the little vanity of the individual to his grand obje&,
the advancement of fcience. An emphatic Arabian proverb de»
clares that the errors of the learned ave learned ; and cven the mif-
takes
takes of a patient and unbiaffed inquirer may often excite difcuffion,
and a confequent elucication of the truth.
A few words remain to be faid concerning the principles on
which the prefent abridgment of the original work has been formed.
The quarto edition, from its magnitude and confequent price, is
little calculated for general ufe as a fchool book, and for the fame
reafons may not be eafily acceflible by many who would gladly
avail themfelves of it in a cheaper form. ‘To fupply this want,
the edition which is now fubmitted to the candour of the public,
has been prepared with much labour and pains. ‘The ftyle of the
original, being for the moft part as concife as is confiftent with pers
{picuity, has allowed, comparatively, but few opportunities for fuce
ceeding condenfation ; but wherever this was poflible, it has beer
carefully practifed. The geographical difcuffions interfperfed
throughout the work, as being the leaft neceflary to the young
ftudent in this {cience, have been curtailed with lefs referve ; much
alfo of the technical and leaft interetting parts of the botany and
mineralogy has been omitted. Other abbreviations of {maller con«
fequence have been made, which it is unneceffary to particularize.
Many particulars have been added from the late general enumee
ration of the inhabitants of England and Scotland ; the provincial
fubdivifions of the European ftates have alfo been inferted, and
fuch other additions and alterations made as might give to the
work a fair claim on the patronage of the public.
To this new edition of the Abridgment is fubjoined an ample
index, which will be found ufeful, as it may often fupply the want
of a gazetteer.
The plan of the prefent work has met with general approbation
at home and abroad, as being more clear and conneéted than any
before adopted. ‘The proper arrangement, indeed, of any book of
{cience is juftly regarded by all judges as the moft effential quality.
In the education of youth, in particular a clear and lucid order be-
comes indifpenfable, as imparting pleafure in the midtt of inftruc-
tion, and as tempting to read what was before ftudied as a tafk,
or only recurred to in cafes of neceffary confultation. Youth is
often deterred from improvement by the ufe of confufed and ane
tiquated fyftems, at which even knowledge would revolt, and eru-
dition itfelf be embarraffed. ‘Throughout the whole of this abridg-
ment accuracy has alfo been fludied as far as human frailty would
permit; for in education ignorance itfelf is preferable to error.
Thefcientific works of France have beenlong celebrated for clearnefs
of arrangement; yet the prefent abridgment, even at a period of
violent animofity, has been preferred to their own elementary
books of geography, and adopted in their colleges and academies 5
and experience has declared, that the attempt has been followed
by more fpeedy and folid inftruction.
Aa
LIST OF THE MAPS,
With Direétions for placing them.
No. 1. Planifphere, to face Page 1
2.. Europe, - a |
3». Britith Ifles, - b fe)
4- France, - 11s
5, Ruffia in Europe, 140
6. Spair. and Portugal, 193
7. Italy and Turkey, 212
8. Sweden, Denmark, &c. 234
9. Germany, - 284
10. Afia, Led e 314
13. Eaft Indies, - 414
12. North America, 535 -
13. Weft Indies, 658
14. South America, 667
15. Africa, - 742
ee NS ee ee
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
| Sak sp ok age Sos pai. — Afronomical Elements neceffary for
the Study of Gongragy. — Conftruction and Ufe of different
Reprefentations of the Earth and different Parts of the Earth.
TaBLEs RELATING To THE MAGNITUDE AND FIGURE OF THE
EarTHy, p. Ixxv.
TasLe of LatTirupEs AND LonciTuDEs, p. Ixxxv.
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS, Pp. I.
EUROPE, general View of, p.4.— Extent, Limits, Ancient
Population, Progreffive Geography, Religion, Climate, Inland
Seas, Sand-banks, Rivers,and Mountains. — Governments,
Arrangement.
EncLanp, Chap. i. p. 10. <= Names. — Extent. — Original
Population. — Progreffive Geography. — Heptarchy, and
Shires or Counties. — Hiftorical Epochs.— Antiquities,
Druidic, Belgic, Roman, Saxon, Danifh, Norman.
Chap. ii. p.17.— Religion, LEcclefaftic Geography and
Jurifdiction, Seétaries. — Government. — Judicature and
Laws. — Population. — Army: Navy, — Revenue.—
Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 28. — Manners and Cuftoms. — Language. —
Literature. — Arts, — Education. Univerfities. — Cities
and Towns ; London, York, Liverpool, Briftol, Bath,
Manchefter, Birmingham, Sheffield, Falmouth, Dorcheflery
Salifoury, Winchefter, Port/mouth, Lewes, Brighthelmftone,
Canterbury, Hereford, Gloucefter, Worcefter, en
Norwich, Yarmouth, Lincoln, Lancafter, Hull, Leeds,
Durham, Stockton, Newcaftle, Berwick, Caermarthen,Caer-
narvon.——Edifices and Gentlemen's Seats.— Bridges.— Ine
land Navigation and Canals,— Manufafturesand Cee
ENGLAND, Chap. iv. p. 49. Climate and Seafons.— Face of the
Country. — Soiland Agiculture.e= Rivers ; Severn, Thames,
Humber, Merfey, &9'c.— Mountains <= Foreits.— Botany.
i —_ Zoology.
CONTENTS.
— Zoology.— Mineralogy i Tin, Copper, Lead, Iron, Coal,
Rockfalt.— Mineral Waters. -~ Natural Curiofities. —
Englhifo Ifands; Wight, Guernfey; Jerfey, Eddiftone,
Scilly Iles, Lunday, Anglefey, Mar. :
S¢oTLANp, Chap. i. p. 64.—Nanies.— Exterit.— Civil Divifions.—
Original Population. — Progrefive Geography. — Hiftorical
Epochs. — Antiquities. .
Chap. ii. p. 69.— Religion. — Evclehaftic Geography. — Gos
vernment, = Latvs.— Population. — .
Chap. iii. p. 71.— Mannees and Cuftonis. — Language. —
Literature. — Education. — Univerfities. — Cities and
Towns ; Edinburgh, Glafeow, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen,
€9'c, — Edifices.— Inland Navigation. . ‘
Chap. iv. p. 79.— Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Couns
try. — Soil and Agriculture.— Rivers ; Forth, Clyde, Tays
Tweed, .Dee, Spey, Sc. — Lakes ; Lomond, Tay, Ness
Awe, &c.— Mountains, Lead hills, Ochills, Grampians.
— Forefts.— Botany.— Zoology. — Mineralogy.—Mineral
Waters. — Natural Curiofities. — Scotifo Ifles, Hebudesy
Orkneys, Shetlands.
ERELAND, Chap. i. p. 99.— Names. —Extent.— Original Population.
—Progreffive Geography.—Hiftorical Epochs.—Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 102. — Religion. Ecclefiaftiical Geography. —
Government. — Civil Divifions. — Population. — Army,
Revenues, Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 104. — Manners and Cuftoms, == Language.
— Literature, — Education and Univerfities. — Cities and
Towns ; Dublin, Cork, Limerick, Galway, Londonderry,
Belfaf, Wexford, Waterford, tc. — Edifices. — Roads.
— Inland Navigation. — Manufaétures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p.109.——Climate and Seafons.— Face of the coune
try. — Soil and Agriculture. = Rivers ; Shannon, Fc.—
Lakes; Neagh, Earn, Killarney. — Mountains. —
Forefts. — Bogs. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy ;
Gold, Silver, &'c. — Natural Curiofities. — Iflands.
France, Chap. i. p. 115. — Names. ~- Extent. — Original Popula-
tion.—Progrefiive Geography ; Ancient Provinces ; new
Departments. — Hiftorical Epochs.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 120. — Religion. — Ecclefaftical Geography.
— Government. — Population. — Colonies. — Army. —
Navy. — Revenue. — Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 123.— Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.—
Literature — Education —Univerfities.—Citics and Towns ;
Paris, Lyons, Marfeilles, Bourdeaux, Breft, Nantes, ce.
Eedifices.—— Inland Navigation. — Manufattures and Trade,
Faance, Chap. iv, p- 128.— Climate and Seafons — Face of the
Country, — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers , Seine, Loire,
Rhone, Garonne. — Lakes. — Mountains ; Vofges, Mount
Furdy
CONTENTS. ii
pen Cevennes, Pyrennees. — Forefts. — Botany. — Zoo«
ogy. —- Mineralogy. — Mineral. Waters. — Natural Cus
viohties.— French Ifles ; Corficay Hyeres, Oleron, Sec.
NETHERLANDS, p 135.—Names.— Extent. — Original Population.
— Antiquities. — Religion. -— Population — Manners and
Cuftoms. — Literature. — Education. — Cities and Towns 3
Bruffels, Ghent, Antwerp.— Sea Ports.— Edifices.— Ine
land Navigation. — Manufactures and Commerce. — Clie
mate and Scafons.— Rivers , Scheld, Dyle, &5'c.— Moune
tains, &9'c.— Botany. ~- Mineralogy.
Rusera 1n Europe, .Chap. i. p. 140.—Extent.— Boundaries.—
Names. — Original Population. — Progrefive Geography.
— Provinces. Hiftorical Epochs.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 143.—Religion and Ecclefiaftical Geography.—
Government.—Laws.— Population. — Navy.— Reveuuese
Political Importance. |
Chap. iii. p. 148.— Manners and Cuftoms.—~ Language.—
Literature. — Education. — Cities and Towns ; Mofcow,
Peterfourg, Aftracan, &S'c.— Inland Navigation. — Mae
nufactures and Commerce.
_ Chap. iv. p.152.— Climate and Seafons.— Face of the
Country .— Soil and Agriculture.— Rivers ; Volga, Don,
Nicper, Nicer, Dwina, §9'c.— Lakes. — Mountains ;
Olonetz, Ural, &o'c. — Forefts. — Botany. — Zoology. —
Mineralogy.— Mineral Waters.— Natural Curiofities.—
_ Ruffien Mes 3 Cronfadt, Novaya Zemlia, Spitabergen.
Avsraiay Chap. i. p. 162. —— Names. Extent and Provinces.—
Original Population. —— Procrefiive Geography. — Hiftorical
Epochs ; of Auftria, of Hungary, of Tranfylvania, of
Bohemia, of Venice. — Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 168.—= Religion. — Government. — Laws. —
Population. —Army.—=Revenue.— Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 170.—— Manas and Cufloms.—Language.—
Literature.— Educati:n ind poe: — Cities and
Towns 3 Vienna, Venice, Pix gue,Gratz, Prefourg; Buda,Crae
cow, Triefe, &8c.—Edifices. —Manufafuresand Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 175.—Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Couns
try. — Sis and Agriculture. — Rivers ; Danube, Tilt,
Inn, Elbe, Adige, B:.— Lakes. Mountains 3 Tyrolefe
Alps, Erzveberg, Carpathian. — Forefts.— Botany.—
Z0logy.—— Mineralogy Gold, Silver, Srichfive ) ’
Rock frlt, Soda, &5'c.— Natural Curiofities.
Prussia, Chap. i. p. 182.—— Names.— Extent.—Subdivifions, and
Population. — Original Population. —— Progreffive Geograe
phy. — Hiflorival Epochs, of Brandenburgh, of Pruffia, of
| Poland, —— Antiquities.
Pavssta, Chap. ii. p. Pate Ng ab So
Government Army.—Revenust— Po
litical AUmportance.
aap
ap e
CONTENTS.
Chap. iii. p.187.— Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.—~
Literature. — Education and Univerfities. — Cities and
Towns ; Berlin, Konigsburg, Warfaw, Breflau, Dantzic,
Potfdam, &'c.— Edifices.— Manufaétures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p.190.—— Climate and Seafons.— Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture. —Lakes ; Curifch- Hoff,
Frifch-Haff, Fc.— Mountains ; Sudetic, Oc.—Forefts.—
‘Botany. —Zoology. — Mineralogy ; Amber. — Mineral
Waters. — Natural Curiofities.
SPAIN, Chap.i. p.193.— Names. —Lxtent.— Original Population.—
i Progreffive Geography. — Hiflorical Epochs. — Divifions. —
Antiquities ; Alhambra.
Chap. it. p. 197— Religion and Ecclefaftical Geography.—
Government. — Laws. — Population. — Colonies. — riny
and Navy.— Revenues.— Political Importance.
Chap. iii.p. 199.— Manners and Cuffoms.—Language.—
Literature.— Univerfities.— Cities and Towns ; Madrid,
Cadiz, Malaga, Barcelona, Corunna, Saragoffa, Toledo,
Badajos, Granada. — Edifices, Efcurial, — Inland Navi-
gation. — Manufaftures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 206. — Climate. and Scafons. — Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers. — Lakes. —
Mountains, of Gallicia, Montes Carpentanos, Sierra Morena,
Sierra Nivada, Montferrat.—Forefts .—~Botany.— Zoology,
— Mineralogy ; Mines of Almaden.— Mineral Waters. —
Pp esiag Curiofties. — Spanifb Tiles ; Majorca, Minorca,
VIZA.
‘TorxeEy IN Europe, Chap. i. p.212.— Names and Provinces.—
Extent. — Original Population. — Progrefive Geography.
—Hiftorical Epochs. — Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p.216.— Religicn. — Government. — Pépulation,
— Army and Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance,
Chap. iii. p. 218.— Manners and Cuftoms.— Language and
Literature. — Education, — Cities and Towns ;. Conftanti-
nople, Aprianople, Belgrade, Sc.—Edifices.— Manufac-
tures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 221.——-Climate and Seafons.— Face of the
Country. —— Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers 3 Danube,
Maritz, §9c: Lakes. — Mountains ; Baftarnic Alps,
Haemus, Pindus, Olympus, Offa, Athos. — Botany, —
. Zoology. — Mineralogy, —- Natural Curiohties ; Grotto of
Antiparos.—Iflands ; Crete, Eubwa, the Cyclades.
-HonLanp, Chap. i. p.225.— Names. — Extent.— Divifians. ~
Original Population.— Progrefive Geography. — Hiftorical
Epochs.— Antiquities. ‘
Chap. ii. p.228.— Religion and Ecclefaftic Geography. —
Government. — Laws. — Population. — Colonies,» Arrity
and Nayy.—-Revenye.— Political Importance.
44 HoLbanvy
CONTENTS. xiii.
Horuanp, Chap. iii. p.229.— Manners and Cuftoms.— Languageand.
Literature. — Education. —- Cities and Towns ; Amfterdam,
Leyden, Rotterdam, Haarlem, the Hague, Middleburg, Mae-
richt.—-Inland Navigation.— Manufaétures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 232.—Climate and Seafons.—Soil and Agricule
ture.— Rivers. — Lakes. — Botany.— Zoology. — Minera-
; logy ; Peat. :
Denmark, Chap. i. p.23.4.—Names.— Extent.— Divifions.— Ori«
. ginal Population. — Progrefiive Geagraphy. — Hiftorical
Epechs ; of Denmark, of Norway.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 237.— Religion. — Government. — Laws. — Poe
pulation. — Colonies. —Army and Navy. — Revenue. —
Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p.239.— Manners and Cuftoms ; Laplanders,
Icelanders. —Language.—Literature.—Education.—Uni«
verfities.— Cities and Towns ; Copenhagen, Bergen, Altona,
Chriftiana, Drontheim. —Eadifices. —Inland Navigation —
Manufaétures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 243.—Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Coun
try,—Soiland Agriculture.——Rivers.—Lakes, —Mountains}:
Lang fill, Dofrafiall, Kolen. —Fore/ts.—Botany.— Zoology.
— Mineralogy ; Silver Mines of Kong foery, Copper Mines of
Roras.—Mineral Waters .— Natural Curiofities; Malftrom,
Mt, Hecla.— Danifo Iflands ; Ferree, Iceland, 5'c.
Swepen, Chap. i. p. 249.— Names. — Extent. —Divifions.— Origi-
nal Population. —Progrefive Geography.- = Hiftorical Epoch:s
— Antiquities, ,
Chap. ii. p. 252.— Religion and Ecclehrfical Geography. —
Government.— Population. — Colonies. — Army and Navy.
— Revenue.— Political Importance.
Chap. ili. p.253.—-Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.—
Literature.— Education. — Cities and Towns ; Stockholm,
Upfal, Gothenburg, (S'c.—LEdifices.x—-Inland Navigation.
— Manufaftures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 256.—Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Coun#
try. — Rivers; Dahl, Tornea, &9c.— Lakes ; Wener, W eter,
Meler, Enara, Pejend.— Mountains.—Forefts.— Botany. —
Zoology. — Mineralogy ; Gold Mines of Adelfors, Copper Mines
of Fahblun, Iron Mines of Danemora, Taberg, and Lulea.—
Swedifh Tflands; Rugen, Ovland, Gothland, €9'c.
PortTuGat, Chap. 1. p. 262.——Names,.— Extent, — Progreffive Geo-
graphy. — Hiftorical Epochs.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 263. — Religion.— Government. Divifions and
Population, Colcnies.— Army and Navy.—Revenues.—
Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 264.— Manners and Cufloms.— Language.—
Literature. — Education, — Citiesand Towns; Lifton, Oporto,
bor. — Edificess— Manufaiures and Commerce.
+8 PORTUGAL,
xiv CONTENTS,
Portucat, Chap. iv. p.267.—Climate and Seafons.— Face of the
Country. —Rivers. — Mountains. —Zolgy.— Mineralogy;
Roman Mines,— Mineral Waters. — Natural ae
SWwIssERLAND, Chap. i. p.271.—Names.— Extent. — Divifions.—
Original Pogulution.— Progrefive Geography.—- Hiftorical
Epochs.— Antiquitiss.
Chap ii. p. 273.— Religion. —Gavernment. —- Populition.—
Army — Revenye.— Political Importance. ~~
Chap. iii. p. 274.— Manners and Cuftoms.— Language.—
Literature, — Education. — Cities ndTowns ; Bajel, Berne,
Zurich, Laufanne, &5'c. — Edifices.— Commerce and Manue
faciures. ;
Chap. iv. p. 276.— Climate and Scafons.— Face of the Coun
try.—Rivers; Rhine, Aar, Reufs, Limmat, Rhone, Thur.
— Lakes ; of Conflance, Geneva, Neufchatel, Zurich, 9'e.—
Mountains ; Alps, St. Gothard, Mt. Blanc, &&'¢.— Botany.
— Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters. — Natural
Curiofities , Glaciers, Avalanches, Source of the Rhone,
Waterfalls. ;
Geaman States, Chap. i. p.284.— Extent.— Original Population.
ol — Prigrefive Geography. —Hiftorical Epochs, — Antiquities,
—Religion. — Government.— Populati:n.— Face of the Coun=
try. — Rivers; Elbe, Wefer, Rhine, Danube, Neckar —
Lakes.— Mountains ; Hartz, Ertageberg, Schwartzwald,
&5'c.— Fore/ts. — Botany. — Zology.
Chap. ii. p.289.—Saxony; Hiftorical Epochs, Religion,
Government, Army, Literature, Cities and Towns, Manu-
fatiures, Minerals. — Hanover ; Extent, Population, Hiftory,
Literature, Manufaftures, and Nitural Products. —Ofna=
bruck.—Heffe.— Mecklenburg. —Brunfwick—Hamburgh,
€5'c. |
Chap. iti. p. 205.— Bavaria and the Palatinate.—Wurteme
burg.— Anfpach and Bareuth.— Salzia.— Baden.— Hef
Darmftadt.— Nuremburg.
¥rary, Chap. i. p.299.—Divi/ions. —Boundaries.—Face of the Coun-
try.— Rivers; Po, Arno, Tiber.— Lakes. — Mountains ;
Alps, Apennines, Vefuvius, Etna, Stramboli, Sc.— Forefts.
— Botany. — Zoology.
Chap. ii. p. 305.— Naples and Sicily; Extent, Population,
Hiftory, Religion, Cities and Towns, Manufactures, Revea
nue, Army, Navy.— Malta.
Chap. iii. p.307.— Papal Lervitory, Rome.—Tufcany, Lucca.
—Sfle of Elba.
Chap. iv. p.310.— Piedmont. — Cifalpine Republic. — Mane
tua. — Modena. — Parma and Placentia. — Ligurian Ree
err public, Genoa.
ASIA, p. 314.—Extent.—Oriyinal Population. —Progreffive Geograe
bly. — Religions, — Seas; Red, Perfian Gulf, Cobian, Aral,
aikal,
CONTENTS, xv
Baikal, Beering’s Straits. —Rivers.— Mountains. — Gos
vernments.—<Arrangment.
JourKEY in Asta, Chap. i. p. 321.—Lxtent.— Divifions.— Ori-
ginal Population. — Progrefiive Geagraphy.— Hifloricad
Epochs.— Antiquities ; Palmyra, Balbec, Plain of Troy.
Chap. ii. p. 322.— Population, 9c.
Chap. iii. p. 323.—Manners and Cuftoms.—Cities and
Towns; Aleppo, Damafcus, Smyrna, Prufa, Angora,\Tckaty
Baffora, Bagdad, Ferufalem.— Manufactures. .
Chap. iv. p. 325.— Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Couns
try.— Rivers; Euphrates, Tigris, Halys, Maander, Oron=
tes, €9'°.— Lakes; Dead Sea.— Mountains ; Taurus, Ara-
rat, Lebanon, Olympus, Ida.—Forefts. —Botany.—Zoology.
— Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters.— Iflands ; Lefvos,
; Chios, Samos, Rhodes, Cyprus. j
Russia in Asta, Chap. i. p. 331.—Extent.— Boundaries. — Ori-
ginal Population. — Names.— Progreffive Geography.
Hiftorical Epochs.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 334.— Religion. —Government.— Population.
Chap. iii. p. 335.—Manners and Cuffoms, Monguls, Kal-
muks.— Language.— Cities and Towns; Aftracan, Tobolfk,
&Fc,— Manufattures.— Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 339.— Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Coune
try. — Soil and Agriculture.— Rivers; Ob, Fenifei, Selinga,
Lena, Onon, &'c. —Lakes. — Mountains ; of Altat, of Ner=
Srink, of Caucafus.— Fores. — Steps. — Botany.— Zoology.
— Mineralogy; Gold, Copper, Iron, Topaz, Beryl, Fafper,
Lapis Lazuli.—Mineral Waters.— Iflands.
Cina Proper, Chap. i. p. 350.— Names.— Extent.— Original
Population. —Progrefive Geography.— Hiftorical Epochs.
— Antiquities ; great Wall. .
Chap. ii, p. 352.— Religion. —Government.—Laws.—
Population. — Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 355.— Manners and Cuftoms.— Language.—
Education. — Cities and Towns; Pekin, Nankin, Canton
— Edifices. —Roads.—Inland Navigation. —Manufac-
tures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 359.—Climate and Seafons.— Fave of the Couna
try. — Agriculture. — Rivers ; Hoan-ho, Kian ku.— Lakes.
—— Mountains. —Forefts.— Botany. — Zoology. — Minera-
logy.—Iflands ; Formofa. |
Cuinesk Tarary, Chap. i. p. 363.— Names.— Extent. — Original
Population. — Progreffive Geography.—Hiftorical Epochs.
— Antiquities. ,
Chap. ii. p. 365.— Religion. — Governinent.— Population—»
Divifions ; Mandjburs, ‘Coreans, Monguls.— Army. :
bk iii, p. 366.— Manners and Cuffoms.— Language.—
uiterature,—— Cities and Towns ; Cafhgar, Turfan, c.—
Trade, =
Curnesz Tatagy, Chap. iv. p.368,—Climate,—Face of the Couns
Wy.
CONTENTS.
try. —— Agriculture. —Rivers ; Amur, 'c.—Lakes.—
Mountains. — Botany.— Zoology. — Mincralogy.— Ife of
Sagalian.
Tiset, p. 371-—Names.—Extent.— Boundaries and Provinces. —
Progrefive Geography. — Hiftory. — Religion. —Govern-
ment.— Revenues. — Manners and Cuftoms.— Language.
— Cities and Towns. —Edifices.— Manufattures.—Trade.
— Climate. — Faceof the Country. — Rivers ; Berhampooter,
Gagra, &'c.—Lakes.— Mountains. — Forefts.— Zoology ;
Yak, Mufe Deer, &S'c.— Mineralogy ; Tincal.
Javan, Chap.i. p.379.— Names. — Extent.— Progreffive Geography.
—Hiflorical Epochs.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 381 .— Religion. — Government. — Laws. —
Population. —Colonies.— Army. — Revenues.
Chap. iii. p. 384.— Manners and Cuftoms.— Language. —
Literature.— Education, — Cities and Towns; Fedo, Miaco,
Nagafaki.— Manufactures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 387.—-Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Coun-
try. — Agriculture.— Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains. —
Volcances.—— Botany. —Zoslogy. — Mineralogy ; Gold, Sil-
ver, Copper.
BigMAn Empire, Chap. i. p. 390.—Name.— Extent and Bounda-
vies. — Original Population, — Progreffive Geography. —
Hiffory.
Chap. ii. p. 393.—Religion.—Laws.—Government.—Popu-
lation. —Arinyand Navy.—Revenue.—Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 395.—AZanners and Cufloms.— Language and
Literature. — Cities; Ummerapoora, Ava, Pegu, Rangosn,
§9¢,— Edifices. — Manufattures.— Commerce. ~
Chap. iv. p. 398.—Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Coun-
try. — Rivers. — Mountains. — Forefis.— Botany. — Zoo-
‘ logy.—- Mineralogy; Ruby, Sapphire.
Mataya or Maacca, p. 402.—Progreffiive Geography. — Name.—
Language.— Products.— City of Malacca. — Manners and
Cuftoms.— Andaman Ilands.— Nicobar Ifles.
Siam, Chap. i. p. 405.—Name.— Extent and Boundaries.—Pro-
grefive Geography.— Hiftorical Epochs.
Chap. ii. p. 406.—Religion.—Government.—Laws.—Popue
lation. —Army.—Navy.—Revenue.—Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 407.—AZanners and Cuftoms.— Language-—
Literature.—Cities and Towns.—Edifices.—Manufac-
tures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 410.— Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Coun
try,— Soil.— Agriculture. — Rivers.— Mountains. —Zco-
logy. — Mineralogy. — Laos.— Cambodia.—Siampa,— Co-
chin China. —Tunquin.
Hinpostan; Introduétion, p. 414.—General Geography. Gene-
val Divifions ; Gangetic Hindoftan, Sindetic, Central and
Southern. —Poktical Divifions ; Britifo Poféffions, Britifo
Allies, Maratta States, Soubab of the Deccan, —
ee INe
CONTENTS Xvii
Hinposran, Chap.i. p.418. — Name. — Boundaries. — Original
Population. — Progreffive Geography. — Hiftory—Chrono-
logy.—Hiflorical Epochs.— Ancient Monuments.—Mythoe
logy. — Religion. —Government.—Laws.— Population.
Revenues.—Political Importance.-—Manners and Cuftoms.
_— Languages. — Literature. —Univerfities.— Manuface
tures.—Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Country.—Soil.
—Rivers; Ganges, Burrampooter, Jemma, Indus, Godaveri,
Nerbudda, Kiftna, &9'c.—Lakes.—Mountains.—Forefts.—
Botany. — Zoology ; Elephant, Tiger.—-Mineralogy, Dia~
mond Mines. — Natural Curiofities. ,
Chap.ii. p. 437. (Gangetic Hindoftan.)— Extent and Divi-
fons. —Britifo. Poffeffions.—Revenue.—Government.—Ar-
my.—Cities and Towns ; Calcutta, Dacca, Patna, Benares,
_ Delhi. ,
Chap. iii. p.440. (Sindetic Hindoftan.)— Extent.— Cities:
and Towns ; Sirhind, Lahore, Cafbmir, Tatta.
Chap. iv. p. 443. (Central Hindoftan. }— Boundaries. —Cities.
and Towns ; Amedabad, Surat, Bombay.— Pirates.
Chap.v. p.445. (Southern Hindoftan.) — Boundaries. —
Britifh Poffeffions.—Cities and Towns ; Seringapatam, Cali
cut, Madras, Arcot, Cochin, Goa, Hydrabad, &9'c.
CEYLON, p.447. — Extent and Names.— Religion.— Population.—
Manners and Cuftoms. — Towns; Kandi, Columbo, Trin-
comali, — Manufactures. —Climate. — Rivers. — Moun
tains. — Forefts. — Zoology. — Mineralogy; Ruby, Tobaz,
Cat’ s-eye.—Pearls. —Ifles of Maldives and Lacadives.
Persia, Chap.i. p.451.—General Divifions.—Names.—Extent.—
Population»—Progrefive Geography.—Provinces.—Hifiori-
cal Epochs.——Antiquities ; Perfepolis.—Modern Hiftory ; of
W eftern Perfia, of Eaftern Perfia.
Chap.ii. p.457.—Religion; Parfees, Mahometans.—Gceverne
ment.—Population.— Navy.—Revenues.—Political Im
portance.
Chap.iii. p.459,—-Manners and Cuftfoms.—Languages.—
Education. — Cities and Towns; Ifpahan, Shiraz, Teflis,
Derbent, §9'c.— Edifices.—Manufaftures and Commerce.
Chap. iv, p.464.—Climate,—Face of the Country.—Soil ana
Agriculture.—Rivers; Gihon, Araxes, Kur, fc.—Lakes.
— Mountains. —Deferts.—Forefts.—Botany.—Zoology.——
Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters. —~ Natural Curiofities ;
Naphtha Springs at Baku,
INDEPENDENT TaTary, Chap.i. (General Obfervations.) p.472.
Name. —Extent.— Divifons.—> Progrefive Geography, —
Modern Geography. —- Towns. — Hiftory.— Religion.
Chap. ii, (Defcription,) p.475.—Kirgujes; Stepp of Ifim.
Manners and Cuftoms, Trade, Hiftory.—Kharijm.—Great
Bucharia;. Extent and Boundaries, Hiftory, Religion,
Manners and Cuftoms, Provinces, Cities, Samarkand,
a Bokharay
CONTENTS.
Bokhara, Balk, &9'c. — Manufattuves, Climate, Rivers,
Aum, Sirr, &9'c.; Lakes, Mountains, Belur, Hindoo Koh;
_ . Mineralogy, Charatter of the Country and People.
Arasra, Chap.i. p. 484.— Boundaries. — Population.— Progreffive
, Geography.—Hiftorical Epochs.—Religion.—Government.
— Manners and Cuftoms.— Drefs.—Language.——Educas
tion. — Cities and Towns; Mecca, Medina, Jedda.—
Edifices. — Manufaétures.—Commerce.
Chap. ii. p.491.—Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country.
—Soil and Agriculture.—Rivers.—Mountains, Deferts.—
Botany. — Zoology.— Mineralogy.—Natural Curiofities.—
Tftes ; Socotra, Babrin.
Asiatic IsLanps (Introduétion.), p.495.—Boundaries and Extent.
- —Auftralafa.— Polynefia.
Ifles of Sunda, p.497.—Sumatra.——Banca—Nafau Ifles.—
Java, Batavia. — Madura.
Borneo, p. 501.
Manillas, p.502.—Luzon, Manilla. Mindano.— Pula-
wain, &3*c.
Celebezian Ifles, p. 503.—Celebez.—Sanguy.—Boutan.——
Sala.
Spice Iflands, p. 504.-—Gilolo.—Ceram.— Bouro—My/ol.—
Oubi.-—Batchian.— Moti:.—Tidore.—Ternat.—Amboyna.
— Banda.
‘AusTRALasia, p.508.—New itolland; Englifh Colony, Natives ;
Climate and Seafons, Zoology.—Papua, or New Guinea;
Papulation, Birds of Paradife.— New Britain, New Ire-
Y land, Solomon Ifles.—New Caledonia.—New Zealand;
Manners and Cuftoms.— Van Dieman’s Land.
PoLyNEs1A, p.518.—Pelew Ifles.—Ladrones.—Carolines.—Sand~
wich Ifles; Manners, Climate, Zoology. — Marquefas. —
‘ Suciety Iles; Otaheite; Natives, Religion, Zoology, Minea
valogy, &9c.; Eafter Iland.—Friendly Iftes ; Fincotsdon,
ftes.of Navigators.— Botany of the Afiattc Ifles.
AMERICA, p.530.—L£xtent.—Progrefive Difcovery and Settle-
ments,——- Population.
Nortu AMERICA, p.535.— Boundaries.—Original Population.—
Language.—Progrefive Geography.—Religion.—Climate.
—Inland Seas ; Gulf of Mexico, of California, of St. Law-
vance, Hudfon’s Sea, Davis's Gulf.— Lakes of Canada,
Slave Lake, &9'c.— Rivers; Miffiffippi, Miffouri, Ohio,
St. Lawence, &9'c.— Mountains; Stony Mountains, Apa
lachian, €5°c. .
Unirep States, Chap.i. p.543.—Divifions.—Boundaries—Oria
ginal Population— Hiftorical Epochs.
Chap. ii. p. §46.—Religion.—Government.—Laws.—Popu-
lation. — Army. —Navy.—Revenue.—Political Importance.
Chap.iii. p.548.— Manners and Cuftoms.— Language. —
Literature ——-Univerjities.—-Cities and Towns; W ora
ian.
Ba OR Pet oe an CAR
Rivers,
00 Koh 3
ogrelfive
rnment.
Educaa
edda—
Country.
fer Z S —!
it ie So
Extent.
Tfles.—
— Pula«
Ulal—
Uy fol.—
(mboyna.
atives s
uinea ;
ew Iree
ealand;
Sanda
efas.—
Minea
gataboo,
! Settlea
tion.—
limate.
. Laws
anada,y
'» Ohio,
Apa
Oria
Popu-
LANGE.
ia 14 ~o—
ingtons
P. bilan :
CONTENTS. | , xix
Philadelphia, New York, Bofton, Baltimore.—Charlfown,
€s'c. — Edifices.— Inland Navigation.—-—Manufattures—
scp “ Seaf Face of
Unitep States, Chap. iv. p.$53.—Climate.—Seafons.—Lace 9,
the Country, — Sol. aT etiraltlre — Rivers; Hudfon,
Delaware, Patomak. —Lakes.— Mountains. — Forefts and
Swamps. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Mineral
W aters.— Natural Curiofities.— Iflands.
Spanish Dominions In NortH America, Chap.i. p.561.—
Boundaries and Divifions.— Original Population. — Hifto-
rical Epochs ; of Mexico, of California, of Louifiana, of the
Flovidas.— Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p.572.— Religion. — Government. — Population —
Army, Revenue, &9'c.— Political Importance.
Chap. ili. p. 580.—Manners and Cuftoms. — Language. —
Cities; Mexico, Guatimala, Acapulco, &9c.—Edifices.—
Manufaétures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p.613.—Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Country.
— Rivers; Rio Bravo, Guadalaxara.— Lakes. —Moune
tains.—-Botany.—-Zoology.—-Mineralogy, —Mineral Waters
and Natural Curiofities.
BritTisH Possessions 1n NorTH AMERICA, p.641.—Divifions.—
Canada; Extent, Religion, Government, Population, Mane
ners, &S'e. Beto Montreal, Climate, mee the Country,
f 0
Falls of Niagara.—New Brunfwick.—
Cape Breton. — Newfoundland.— Bermudas.
va Scotia.—
Native TripeEs, p.648.—Greenland.—Labrador.—Hudfon's Bay.
— Central Parts; Mr. Hearne’s Difcoveries, Mr. Macken
zie's.——Weftern Coaft.— Botany of Canada and the North.
West Inpizs, p.658.—Cuba.— St. Domingo. — Jamaica.— Porto
aeenrnrs Iflands.——Bahamas.— Botany of the Weft
ndies. Vek:
SoutTn AMERICA, p.667.——Extent.— Original Population.—Pro-
grefive Geography. — Religion. — Climate and Seafons. —
Lakes.— Rivers; Maranon, Rio de la Plata, Orinoco.—
— Mountains; Andes. ie
Spanish Dominions, p.674.— Extent and Boundaries. —-Govern-
ment.—Populatian.——Manners and Cuftoms.— Language.
— Cities; Lima, Buenos Ayres, Carthagena, &9'c.—— Cama
merce.—~Zoology.— Botany. — Mineralogy; Silver, Mer-
cury, Platina, &9'c.— Natural Curiofities. ;
- PorruGcugse Dominions, p.735.—Brazil.—Rio Janeiro.— Dia
monds.— Botany.
Frencu Dominions, p.737-
Durcn Dominions, p.738.—Guiana.— Paramaribo. Demarara,
Natives TRIBES, p.739.
IsLanDs, p.741.—Juan Fernandes, — Chiloe.— Falkland Ifes.—
Afcenfion Te.
It AFRICA,
XX- CONTENTS.
AFRICA, p.742.—Lxtent.— Original Population. —.Progrefive
Geography.—Religion.—Rivers; Nile, Nigir,; Senegal._—
Mountains; Atlas, Egyptian Mountains, Abyfinian Moun-
tains. — Defaris.
ABYSSINIA, p.748.— Extent. — Original Population. — Progreffive
Geography. —Religion.— Manners and Cuftoms.—Citels ;
Gondar,. Axum.—Climate and Seafons.— Rivers.— Lakes
of Dembea.and Zawja.— Mountains.— Botany. — Zoology
and Mineralogy.
Ecyet, p. 752. — Extent. — Religion. — Manners and Cuftoms.—
ho Cities ; Cairo, Alexandria, {5'c.— Commerce.— Climate.—
Face of the Country.—Rivers.—Lakes ; Menzaleh, Berelos, .
of Natron, 9c. — Mountains. — Botany. — Zoology. —
Ethiopia or Nubia.
NorTHERN STATES, p. 757.-—~Lripoli.—Tunis.—-Algier.—Morecco.
: — Botany. ;
WESTERN Sonne a: 761.——Jalofs, Foulabs, €s'c. — Slave Coaft;
\Benin. —Loango. — Congo. — Botany.
- Care or Goon Horr, pi763.— Extent and Population. — General
Defcription.— Botany, &e.
Eastern Coast, p.765.— Natal. — Delagoa: — Mocaranga. —
Mozumbique.— Zanguebar.— Adel.
Manacascar, p..767. —Extent.—Natural Produdions. — Inhabia
tants, Manners and Cuftoms.— Botany.
SMALLER African Isianps, p.769.—Pemba.—Comoro.— Mauri«
tins. — Bourdour. — Kerguelen’s Land. — St. Helena. —
Afcenfion. — St. Thomas. — Cape Verd Ifles.— Canaries,
Madeira, Azores.
Discoveries anp ConJECTURES CONCERNING THE CENTRAL
Parts or Arrica, p.773-—Zravels of Park and Browné,
Piclemy's Map, &'c.—Obftacles to Difcovery.
a
INTRO-
ogrelfive
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Zoology
om i—
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INTRODUCTION
TO
MATHEMATICAL AND CRITICAL GEOGRAPHY:.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF
§.F. LACROIX. °
(j BOCRAP HY is divided into two diftin& branches 3 one of thefe
may be called narrative geography, the knowledge of which is moit
generally diffufed; Like the relations of travellers, it makes us acquainted
with the varions countries of the earth, their moft remarkable phylical and
' topographival circumftances, their form of government, their political
divifion, their commerce, the manners of their inhabitants, and laftly the
principal events of their hiftory.
Thefe defcriptions, by the aid of language alone, imuit be neceflarily
fomewhat imperfect and vague; on which account it has been
requifite to add outlines or maps of the countries, not only with a view
of rendering the relative pofitions of the different places apparent to th
eye, but alfo to give that degree of precifion which is fo o a eauieed
in navigation, in the saline at in the planning of roads and cana
and many other important objects of civilized fociety. It is the art of
projeéting thefe maps which forms the fecond branch, not lefs ufeful
than the preceding one, but lefs generally underftood ; and although :
the principles on which their tonitruétion depends, are derived from
_aftronomy and geometry, it is often but imperfectly comprehended,
even by thole already converfant with thefe fcien¢es, poe
or as it often occurs that there are not fafficient data to admit of the
application of mathematical Principles to fill up the details of a map;
we are obliged to have fecourfe for this purpole, to the relation of the
traveller and the narrative of the hiftorian,
It is not furprifing then, that an art which tather feeiiis to depend on
the intelligence and {kill of the individual than on any general rules,
fhould have been deemed ineapable of analyfie ; and it has therefore been
neglected in general plans of inilga n,
t is, however, not impoffible to obtain poffeffion of the elie which
has guided the geographers of the laft and the prefent century in their
tefearches, and thus to complete our geégraphical treatifes, by fub-
joining to then the elements of the mathematical and critical part of this
cience, the pringipal objet of which is the conitruction of charts.
And this will be found of great importance ; for how can we make ufe
of thefe defigns with any certainty, or appreciate their correétnefs,
when we are totally ignorant ofthe means by which they -have been
compo \
efe motives have induced me to prefent to the reader a hort effay
on this fubjed, and to depart from phe ufual plan of introduétions ES;
INTRODUCTION.
fixed to geographical treatifes, which are only the elements of aiftro-
nomy more or lefs abridged. I fhall begin like the authors of thefe
introductions by a fhort expofition of the firft principles of aftronomy,
but I fhall confine myfelf to thofe which.are abfolutely neceffary to give
a clear conception how the pofition of different places on the furface of
the earth may be determined by obfervations of the celeftial bodies.
/
SECT“I. Aftronomical Elements neceffary for the Study of Geography.
t. Ir mutt have been remarked by every one who has been placed
in a fituation commanding an uninterrupted view, that the heavens and
earth appear to terminate in a circle of contact, and this circle has been
called the horizon.
It is {carcely poflible to-obferve the form of the terrcftrial furface in-
clofed within the circle, becaufe it is almoft always broken by irregu-
larities which alter its original figure ; but if we ftand on the fea fhore,
we muft obferve immediately, that however uniform this furface may’
appear, it is not perfectly flat; for when a veffel approaches the fhore,
it 1s the upper part of her mafts that is firlt perceptible; and the beft
telefeopes would afford us no affiftance in renderiug the lower part
vifible, As it ‘advances towards the fhore we behold it difengage itfelf
from the horizon, and apparently rife out of the fea. It mutt then be
the convexity of the fea that intercepts the lower part of the veffel from
our view ; this is reprefented in fig. 1.
“The moment we remark that the furface of the fea is convex, we may
eafily conceive that the earth participates in the form, fetting afide the
seatderition of its irregularities; and we are induced to confider the
whole as fpherical, becaufe the geometrical laws of this curve are
more fimple than thofe of any other, and the form more pleafing to the.
imagination.
Other phenomena which we fhall defcribe he.e:.fter have ftrengthened
this conje€ture, which has been fince verified oy voyages round the
world. And the laft aftronomical difcoveries, by enabling us to meafure
the-earth with great precifion, have proved, that its form approaches fo
nearly to that of a fphere, that in moft cafes the difference may be neg-
ledted without any fenfible error.
.The mountains and vallies fcattered over the furface of the earth;
when compared to its mafs, do not alter its figure more than the rough-
nefs perceptible on the rind of the fineft orange. This affertion will
be demonftrated hereafter by calculation.
2. The fpherical form of the earth foon conduéts us to the explana-
tion of the moft apparent motions of the celeftial bodies. social
The fun at the moment of his rifing emerges partially from the hori-
zon; he then feems to defcribe a portion of a circle in the heavens, and
finks below the oppofite part of the horizon when he fets; he then re-
appears the next day, at nearly the fame point where he rofe on the’ —
preceding one ; we may therefore eafily conceive that he only difappears
ecaufe he paffes below the horizon, to complete his courte‘round the
earth.
If, during the courfe of a fine night, we obferve with attention the
motions of the ftars, we perceive that fome firft appear in that part of
the heavens where the fun rifes, and difappear in the part where he fets $
and in our climate during a long winter’s night, we may diftinguifh
fome which defcribe more than a femicircle, round another which is
ips a) Dey remarkable
of aftro.
s of thefe
ftronomy,
ry to give
lurface of
dies.
/
eography.
n_ placed
ivens and
has been
urface in- = #
y irregue
fea fhore,
face may ©
he fhore,
the beft
wer part
age itfelf
t then be
ffel from
, We may
afide thé
fider the
rve are
eto the.
gthened
ind the
imeafure |
aches fo
be negs
earth;
rough.
on will .
plana-
e horte
s and
en re
bn the’
ppears —
d the
in the
art of
fets ¢
uifh
if is
kable
INTRODUCTION. iii
Yemarkable from its apparent immobility ; fome might even be fee: to
complete the circle, if the light of the fun by effacing vheir luftre ‘id
not caufe them to difappear.
As all the ftars appear to revolve in the fame direétion round one
point, we are immediately led to confider this point as the centre of a
motion common to all the ccleftial bodies, and in which the fun himfelf
partakes, fince he revolves in the fame dire€tion as the ftars, This was
for a long time the opinion of aftronomers ; they fuppofed the fun and
ftars attached to ‘a folid vault which carried them with it in its revolu-
tion round the earth, in the {pace of twenty-four hours. When it was
difcovered that all the celeftial bodies were not at the fame diftance from
the earth, and that many of them approached and receded fucceffively
at certain periods, it became requifite to reform the preceding conjec-
ture, and at length they began to imagine that the general motion of
the ftars might be only an appearance produced by the real motion of
the earth in a contrary dire€tion, round a diameter or axis which if pro-
longed would pafs through that ftar wh’ch appeared ftationary.
In fa&t, when we are in a boat pafling uniformly, and no abrupt mo~
tion reminds us that we are changing Gur fituation, it is the objects on
the bank that appear to move in a contrary direGtion, We may, there.
fore, ealily attribute the motion which we obferve in the fun and ftars
to the earth, and this explanation, which its fimpiicity alone renders
extremely probable, is confirmed by the exa&@ analyfis of the® phe-
nomena, and by the coincidence of the refults we obtain frem it with
obfervation.
3. The point round which the heavenly bodies appear to move, is
called the celeflial pole 3 the ftar which indicates it, and ‘which is very
near it, is the polar far ; the axis of the earth being direted to ‘this:
point, marks on the furface of our globe two oppofite points, which
are the serreftrial poles 3 that which correfponds to the polar ftar ‘is
Called the north or arGic pole, and the oppolite one the /outh or antardic
,
pole.
That point of the horizon which is below the north pole is'called she
north, the oppolite fide is the fouth.
If we fuppofe a circle to pafs through thefe two points the plane of
which fhall be perpendicular to the horizon, it will neceffarily pats
through the two poles ; this circle is called by aftronomers the meridian 3
it divides the celeltial hemifphere above the horizon into two equal parts,
fo that the ftars which are obferved on this circle are in the middle of
their apparent courfe, and it is the tranfit of the fun over this circle
that marks the monient of noon,
The line which joins the north and fouth points of the horizon is
called the meridian line ¢ if we draw a line perpendicular to it, and fup-
pofe it prolonged on beth fides till it meets the horizon, it marks on
this circle two oppofite points, which are called the eaf and weft, or
the points of riheg and /etting. ;
hefe latter denominations are intended to fignify that one of thefe
points is onthe fide where the heavenly bodies appear to begin their
daily courfe or 7i/e,"and that the other is on the fide where they feem
to pafs below the fame circle, or to /et, and that their apperent diurnal
motion is direéted from eaft to weft.
It is proper to remark that when we look towards the fouth, the
weft is on our right and the ealt on our left ; and if we mark on a ho:
rizontal plane two points in the direction of the polar ftar, they will
ba determine
INTRODUCTION.
determine a line which will differ but little from the meridian line. f
fhall give hereafter the means.of tracing it corre@ly. ;
4. To comprehend with precifion the remarks contained in the pre«
ceding’ fe€tions, it is neceflary to have recourfe to a figure.
The circle ALENO, fig. 2. reprefents the horizon, in the centre of.
which, the obferver A is placed; BCD, B’C'’D! are portions of the
circle which the heavenly bodies feem to defcribe round the celeftial
pole. Thofe whofe diflance from the pole is lefs than the are PN,
which marks the elevation of this point above the horizon, appear to
defcribe entire circles, fuch as GHJK; N isthe north point of the
horizon, JZ the fouth; and ‘confequently AMZN is the meridian line.
The femicircle ZZN, the plane of which is fuppofed to be perpen-
dicular to the horizon J7ZNO, and which paffes through the points
MN is the celeftial meridian, which divides the ares BCD, B/C’ D!
into two equal parts, at the points C C’.
The pene E is the’eaft point of the horizon, and the point 6 the
weft ; the heavenly bodies feem to move from £ towards O,:and to pafe
in the middle of their courfe through fome point of the circle MZN.
5. Thefe appearances are now to be explained, and to comprehend
the fubje& properly. the reader fhould imagine himfelf removed from
the earth, and confider it only asa globe placed in the midft of {pace
fuppofed to be indefinitely extended in every dire€tion.
Figure 3. reprefents the terreftrial globe infulated ; the point 4 ie
the upped lace of the obferver, ZMON his horizon, and the
ftraight line PP defignates the axis round which the earth performs ite
motion of rotation from weft to eaft.
It is evident that the horizon of the obferver turning with him during
the rotation of the globe advances succeffively towards the ftars fituate
in the direétion of its motion, which confequently feem to be moving in
an oppolite direction to approach him.
The plane AZZN of the meridian line NZ perpendicular to the hori-
zontal plane ZNOM turns alfo with this latter, and direSts itfelf fuc+
ceflively towards the fame ftars which are then in the middle of the:
courfe which they feem to defcribe above the horizon.
When the weftern edge of the horizon touches a ftar it appears to
fet,.and ceafes to be vifible till the motion of the earth brings the eaftern
edge of. the horizon to it ; becaufe during this interval the vifual rays
which touch the carth pafs above the ftar.
This.explanation then applies to the phesomnsne which take place, in
the moft correct and fimple manner, and accounts perfectly for the daily
appearance and difappearance of the celeftial bodies, by which circume
ftance the fun produces the alteration of day and night.
6. A canes very important to be made is, that all the motions allud-
ed to inthe preceding fections are only meafured by their angles, without
any confideration of their abfolute diftances,
In fa&t when a flar, F, after having appeared in the dire@tion of the
vifual ray 4F in the plane of the horizon, is obferved in the direGtion
of the ray 47’, in the plane of the meridian, the {pectator has onl
obferved the angular {pace contained between the two itraight lines 4
and 4F’, and which appears to include an are of a circle in the heavens,
whofe radius it is impoffible to eftimate.
It follows from this remark, that we may, when we are sonidos
the ftars, fubftitute inflead of the tangent—-plane ZNO M a pa
plane pafling through the centre of the earth; for when a ftar placed
: ae >
n line, f
n the pres
centre of.
ns of the
e celeftial
are PN;
appear to
i mf the
dian line.
e perpen-
the points
, B'C'D!
nt O the
nd to pafs
> MZN.
mprehend
ved from
of {pace
pint 4 ie
and the
‘forms ite
m suring
s fituate
moving in
the hori-
felf fuce
of the:
ppears to
e eaftern
fual rays
place, in
he daily
circame
sallud-
without
of the
ireQion
as onl
nes 4,
heavens,
derin
parall
placed
at *
INTRODUCTION. v
at G would appear in that horizon which is.a tangent to the point 4,
an obferver placed at the centre of the earth, feeing the fame ftar on
the line C G, would behold it elevated only by the angle C Gr, which
is fo much the {mailer as the point G is farther removed, as we fee by
the point G. Now the diftance of the celeftial bodies is fo great that
this angle is infenfible with regard to moft of them, and very {mall for
the others.
After what has been faid, we may be allowed to fubftitute fig. 4.
inftead of the preceding ; but let the plane ENO M paffing through
the centre of the earth parallel to the plane which reaches it at 4, or
which is the fame thing, Popescu to the radius CA drawn from
this point to the centre of the earth, be taken for the horizontal plane,
relatively to the ftars. Suppofe the plane J7ZN of the meridian to be
prolonged indefinitely round C, the centre of the earth, through which
It mult pafs, fince it is drawn through the axis PP’. It marks then on
the terreftrial furface a circle PAP! pafling through the poles, which
is called the meridian of the point 4, and of all the points fituated on
its circumference. The horizon EZ NO J/'is called the rational horizon,
to diftinguifh it from that which isa tangent to the furface of the earth,
and is called the fenfible horizon.
The point Z, which is the point of the heavens perpendicularly over
the head of the obferver is called the zenith, and from the {phericity of
' the earth the line CZ prolonged downwards indicates another point Z’
which is called the nadir, it is oppofite to the firft, and is the zenith of
the place 4’, which is diametrically oppofite to 4.
The pofition of the right line Z.4’ which is called the wertical, is ine
dicated on the earth by the direction of the fall of heavy bodies, as
that of the horizontal plane is by the furface of a ftagnant fluid of
{mall extent, to which the vertical or line marked by a plumb-line, is
perpendicular,
As the action of gravity tends every where towards the interior of the
earth, it ats at ’ according to the dire€tion Z' 4’ oppofite to Z.4;
bodies at this place fall shevefore to the furface of the earth on which
men are retained by their weight ; thofe who are at 4’ having their
feet o pofite to thofe at 4, are the antipodes of the latter,
; he attentive obferyation of the‘celeftial bodies foon caufed them
to be diftinguifhed into two claffes, one of which always preferve the
fame diftance and arrangement among themfelves, and only feem to be
affected by the apparent mation which refults from the rotation of the
earth on its axis; the others have a motion of their own, relatively both
toeach other and to the firft-mentioned clafs. ‘Thefe are called fixed
frars, or fimply flars; the others are fubdivided into different claffes,
namely, planets, fubje& to motions the periods of which are known,
and comets, the times of the appearance and difappearance of which
vary. Thefe are generally enveloped in a pale and diffufed light, which
fometimes furrounds them in the form of a crown, and fometimes follows
them in a long train of light.
The obfervation of the fixed {tars is one of the moft fimple means of
knowing the relative pofition of places fituated on the fame meridian,
and fully confirms what ‘was advanced in the fecond fe@tion concerning
the f{pherical form of the earth,
8. After the definition that has been given of the horizon, it may be
eafily comprehended that it fhould change its pofition relatively to the
ftars, when the obferver changes his place. If he moves, for example,
_ from A to fl’ fig. 5. going my north gr fouth, following the direce
salar b 3 tion
INTRODUCTION.
tion of the meridian, the horizontal vifual ray which was VY will be«
come N’M’, fo that a ftar Z placed on the prolongation of this ray,
will be elevated above the horizontal ray NV’ AZ to /’ by the an Te
ECM", equal to that formed by the radii C4 and C’4’ drawn to the
centre of the earth.
In fact the angles ACM and A’ CM being right angles ({eétion 6.),
if we fubtraé&t the common angle M/C 4’, the remainder MCM’ and
'CA will be equal.
It was by this means that Poffidonius having remarked that a very
brilliant ftar, known by the name of Canopus, appeared in the horizon
at. Rhodes, and was elevated above it by a 48th part of the circle, or
7} at Alexandria in Egypt, concluded that Rhodes was feparated from ~
Alexandria by a 48th part of the circle, in the direion of the
meridian.
The Greek philofopher alfo made this important deduction from the
fame obfervation; that the diftance from Alexandria to Rhodes being
known in linear meafure, and the proportion that the arc of the meridian
included between thefe two cities bore to the whole circumference, the
length of the circumference of the earth expreffed alfv in linear meafure
might be known.. From the length of the voyage, aud the fpace that
a veflel could pafs over in a day, the diftance between Alexandria and
Rhodes was eftimated at 3,750 ftadia, this diftance repeated 48 times
produced 180,000 ftadia for the circumference of the earth,
The accuracy of this refult cannot be afcertained, becaufe the value
of the ftadium in- which it is exprefled is unknown, and befides it ig
founded on rather vague eftimations; but the principle is the fame on
which the moft exact determinations of the prefent day are founded.
It is always required to find what is the proportion between the are
4 of the meridian pafling through the two points of obfervation,
and the whole circumference ; the linear diftance between the two places
is afterwards meafured.
g. By this-obfervation we are enabled to compare place 4 with
another place 4’, but to determine abfolutely the pofition Ag thefe points,
it is neceffary to affume a fixed term of comparifon,
For this purpofe we fuppofe a plane to pafs through the centre of
the ‘earth perpendicular to its axis of rotation, which marks on its cirs
cumfcrence a circle GEF, fig. 6, of which all the points are at an equal
diftance from the poles Pand P’, and which is called the equator, ‘I’
a {pedtator placed on this circle the two pas are in the horizon, but as
he recedes from it to approach one of the poles, this one becomes ele-
vated while the other is deprefled. ‘Thus at 1 fig.5. the pole P
appears elevated above the horizon, by the angular quantity PCN, and
at // the angle iz augmented by NCN’ and becomes PCN,
The oppofite pole P’ is depreffed on the contrary below the horizon
by the angle MOM’ equal to NCN’, the angles being vertical.
The angle which meafures the elevation of the vile above the hori-
zon is equal to that which meafures the angular diftance of a place
from the equator, eftimated in the direétion of the meridian.
To alcertain this, it is fufficient to obferve that the angles ACN and
GCP, fig. 6, being right angles, if we fubtrac&t the common angle
ACP, the acy ACG and NCP will be equal. It may be feen
alfo by the fame figure that CG, the height at which the equator
appears above the horizon, is the complement of the angle 4CG.
As foon then. as the height of the pole above the horizon can be de-
termined for any place, the angular diftance of this place from the
equator
M wiil bea
F this rays
the anole
‘awn to the
feétion 6.),
ZCM' and
hat a very
he horizon
> circle, or
rated from ~
on of the
n from the
odes being
e meridian
tence, the
ar meafure
fpace that
andria and
1 48 times
the value
fides it ig
> fame on
founded.
n the are
fervation,
wo places
e 4 with
fe points,
centre of
Dn its Cire
e pole P
CN, and
horizon
he hori.
a place
CN and
n angle
be feen
vator
G
be de.
om the
equator
INTRODUCTION. — vii
equator is known, or the number of parts of the meridian intercepted
between this place and the horizon.
10. The circumpolar ftars, which never fet in thofe places where
one of the poles is elevated above the horizon, determine this im-
mediately. :
For, fince they appear to. deferibe circles round the celeftial poles
they are equally diftant from it in sinh direQion, and as they pafs twice
over the meridian during the diurnal revolution of the earth, namely,
once above the pole and once below it, if we meafure their angular
elevation in each of thefe pofitions, and take the mean of thefe two
refults, we fhall obtain the elevation of the pole.
This is fhewn in fig. 7; whey the ftar paffes the meridian above the
ole, its angular eievation above the horizon is EON; when it is at £’
flees the pole its angular elevation is Z/ON. The angles EOP and
E'OP being equal, the angle PON is the mean between EON and
E'ON, and is equal, confequently, tohalf their fum. Moreover, if we
take half the difference EOL’ of the angles EON and Z'ON meafured
between the ftar and the horizon, we thall obtain the angle EOP, which |
je give the angular diftance between the obferved ftar and the celef-
tial pole. .
Thus by meafuring, for example, at Paris, during a long winter’s
night, the two meridian heights of the polar ftar, we find *,
When it paffes above the pole - e 50° 372...
When it sales below the Sala oe 8 } nearly
Their fum being » - 97 42
The half - ” - 48 51 “ite
will be the height of the pole above the horizon of Paris, or the dif-
-tance of this city from the equator.
If, on the contrary, we fubtra& 47° 5’ from 50° 37’ we fhall find
for their difference 3° 32’ of which the half 1° 46’ will give the dif-
tance of the polar ftar from the pole, which, we find, does not exadly
occupy this point, but is only very near to it.
tt. The Rnowled of the diftance ofa place on the earth from the
equator, is not fufficient to determine the pofition of the place, becaufé
the fame diftance will agree with all the points ’fituated.on the iriters
fetion of the {phere and a plane parallel to the equator, which ifiter-
fe&tion gives a circle parallel to the equator, but of which the radtis
ia fmaller, and which for this reafon is called a Lefer circle, “All the
points of this circle can only be diftinguifhed by their meridians, which
are ‘different for each of them, and the obfervation of the celettial
motions affords the means of afcertaining them.
The planes of the different meridians PAP’, PLP’, PMP’, &c,
fig. 8, all interfe& each other in the axis PP’, and turni:g upon this
line correfpond fucceffively to the fame flar, and between the paflage
of the fame ftar over any two meridians, a period of time elapfes which
is to the whole time of rotation as the siigle made py thefe meridians
¥ © Convinced that the defcription of aftronomical inftrutents is uttetly incapable of
conveying any idea to perfuns who have never feen them, Ihave thought it advitable not
to introduce any in this introduétion, Befides the form of thefe inftruments, the object
of which is the meafurement of angles, is 10 variable that it would require « very. prolix
detail to point out the manner of employing all the different kinds now in ufe. More-
over, it is known by the elements of geometry, that ae are mealiired on the arcs of
circhts, and that two rules moveable round a joint are fufficient to atcertain the direStion
of the lines witich compofe them. ‘
b 4 is
INTRODUCTION.
is totwo right angles; fo that if the firft interval can be meafured
to compare it with the fecond, we may deduce the angle which the
two meridians in queftiqn make with each other. r
This could be done if we could indicate bya fignal yifible at the
fame time to the places under the two meridians the moment when a
Star appears on one of the meridians ; becaufe this inftant being marked,
a well regulated watch would give the time which elapfeg between this
tranfit and that of the fame ftar over the ofher meridian.
' If, for example, two obferverg, one at Paris, the other at Dreux,
having agreed to determine on the fame day the tranfit of the fame
ftar over the meridian of the city they inhabit, and that a fignal given
at the moment when the {tar paffes the meridian of Paris, could be
‘vifible at Dreux, about four minutes would elapfe before the itar
would pafe the meridian of Dreux ; this interval being nearly the 360th
part of the diurnal revolution of the earth, it follows that the plane of
the meridian which paffes over Dreux, makes with that of the meridian
which paffes over Paris, an angle which is the 360th part of four
right angles, or the meafure of which is a degree.
12. Knowing by this ‘means the angle which the meridian PL P’
pafling through the place Z, makes with the meridian P.4/P' paffing
through a given place 4', the place LZ will be perfectly determined, if
we have, befides, its diftance from the equator, EFG, fince it is in
the pr anh of the purallel LZ, drawn at this diliance, with the
femicircle PLP’.
The diftance GL of a place from the equator reckoned on the
meridian is called its /atitude it is northern when the place is between
the pole of this denomination and the equator; and is fouthera when
jn the oppofite hemifphcre,
| Theangle of the meridians P4P* and PL P’, meafured by the ares
EG or HL included on the equator, as on the parallel, is the: difference
in longitude of the places 4 and L, and is called the longitude of the
place L, when the fame circle PAF’ is the principal meridian, which ig
made to pafs through a place affumed arbitrarily,
The preceding method pointed out for its determination is only
racticable in general by taking a celeftial phenomenon for the fignal ;
ty fora goal te be perceptible in two places at the fame time
it fhould be fo much the more elevated, in proportion as the places
are farther afunder. As the phenomena employed for this purpofe
yefult from the motious peculiar to the planets, I fhall give fome
sccount of thefe motions.
33. Befidea the diurnal motion which the fun has in common with
the fare during the courfe of the year, he feems to advance alternztel
towards one or other of the poles; moreover, if we compare him with
the ftars, by obferving one which fets a little time after him, we find
that the interval between thefe two phenomena diminifhes every eyening,
and we foon ceafe to perceive the ftar, being effaced by the light of
the fun, which confequently is advanced towards the eaft; a few days,
afterwards the fame ilar reappears in the eaft. a fhort time before fun
rife ; the interval between his rifing and that of the ftar augments every
day, and after a period of about 365 days the {tar and the fun are found
to be in the fante relative pofition in which they were originally ob-
ferved. The fun then appears to be influenced by two motions; one
whofe dire€tion is from fouth to north, then from north to fouth, and
the other frem the weft towards the eait, == 2)
Thefs
neafured
‘ich the
e at the
when a
marked,
een this
Dreux,
1e fame
al given
ould be
the itar,
> 360th
lane of
eridian
of four
—
paffing
ined, E
it is in
ith the
on the
etween
1 when
he arcs
ference
of the
hich ig
8 only
ignal ;
e time
places
urpofe
ome
n with
nstel
n wit
INTRODUCTION. in
Thefe appearances may be explained with great fimplicity, by
attributing to the fun one motion algne, which is ‘repeated every year or
gnaually, and which is performed in a plane inclined to the axis of the
garth, fince he approaches both the poles alternately. But the cir-
gumftances of the motion of the other planets do not yield readily to
any plaufible explanation, when we confider thefe bodies as moving
round the earth; whereas by fuppofing them to move round the fun,
and by attributing alfo to the earth the apparent annual motion of this
body, the combination of thefe two akfolute motions, gives to each of
the planets, as feen from the earth, a relative motion, which agrees
perfectly with all the phenomena they prefent, and is capable of
explaining them with the greateft precifion.
It vai by this means that Copernicus reftored to the fyftem of the
world the fimplicity and correétnefs which it had entirely loft by the
multiplied efforts which the partizans of the theory which fuppofed
the earth immoveable, had made after Ptolemy, to explain how the
planets fhould appear fometimes ftationary, and at others change their
direction,
Copernicus fuppofed then, that at the fame time that the earth
turned on its axis trom weft to eait in the interval of a day, (fection 5.)
it was carried in fpace from eaft to weft, making an entire revolution
round the’ fun in a plane inclined to the equator, during the interval of
a year.
W e have every day before our eyes a multitude af examples of thefe
two fimultaneous motions in the fame body.
The top with which children amufe themfelves is one of the moft
familiar ; while it turns rapidly upon the iron peg that paffes through
it, and which forms its axis, it alfa defcribes on the ground various
curves, which depend on the manner in which it was originally pro-
jected : a bow) that has been ftruck in a diretion not paffing through
its centre, acquires a rotatory motion an itfelf, befides the progreffive
motion which refults from the impulfion it received.—Thefe elucida-
tions ought to fuffice to render intelligible what follows concerning the
two motions of the earth.
14. To conceive how the phenomena of the fun*s apparent chan
of place are produced by the annual motion of the earth, it is on
requifite to obferve the canfequences produced by the parallelifm which,
jts axis preferyes in all the pofitions it {ucceflively occupies.
This axis, which is inclined to the plane in which the centre of the
earth moves round the fun, remaining always parallel to itfelf, prefents
alternately each of its extremities, or poles, towards the fun. This
may- be feen by fig.9. where the lines PP’ parallel to each other
reprefent the axis of the earth, and S§ the centre of the fun. This
‘parallelifm caufes the pole P, which is neareft to the fun when the
earth is at B, to become the moft diftant from it when the earth is
at D; becaufe, in the firit fituation, the inclination of the part BP
of the terreftriak axis is turned within the curve ABCD, while at the
point D it is on the outfide of it; there are two intermediate points,
A and C, in which the axis PP’ does not incline either towards the
fun or from it ; and the line CS.4, which joins the centres of the fun and
earth in thefe two oppofite pofitions, is perpendicular to its axis PP*,
‘ In all the other points of its orbit ABC » the terreftrial axis muft
neceflarily incline either towards or from the fun; and as it is thefe
two pearene Which produce the feafons, I thall confider them fe,
parately.
15. Figure
%
INTRODUCTION.
. 15. Figure 1o relates to the cafe in which the pole P is neareft'to
the fun.
The diftance from the fun to the earth being very confiderable,. in
proportion to the diameter of the latter, his rays may be confidered
as parallel to the line SO, *which joins the centres of thefe two bodies 5
we perceive immediately that the terreftrial furface is divided at every
inftant into two parts; that which is towards the fun being enlightened,
while the oppofite fide is in obfcurity. The boundary which {fe-
parates thefe two parts is determined by the great circle /L.X’ drawn
perpendicular to the line SO; for it is evident that this circle fure
rounds that part of the earth which is turned towards the fun, and that
the rays of light, fuch as S/, SX, which touch its circumference, arc
only tangent to the furface of the globe ; this circle is called the circle
of illumination.
Tt follows then that the equator ELF, being a great circle, is
divided equally by the circle of illumination ; every point in the equator
paffes fucceflively through that half of its circumference which is
included in the enlightened part of the earth, and confequently receives
the rays of the fun during half the time of the rotation of the earth.
This is the caufe that to all the places fituated on this circle (the
equator) the days and nights are equal, on whith account it is fome-
times called the equinoétial line. The circle of illumination divides
the leffer circles defcribed by the points of the arc PZ more unequall
in proportion as they approach the pole; the enlightened part of thele
circles is the loomeh to all thefe places therefore the duration of
the day furpafles that of the night; and this difference increafes as the
laces are fituated nearer the pole, till there is no night to the {pace
inclofed within the circle 7K defcribed by the point J, through which
the folar ray pafles as a tangent to the earth, and the aeareft to the
pole P, becaufe this circle lies entirely in the illuminated hemifphere.
This order is totally reverfed with regard to the, other hemifphere
EPF. Beyond the equator ELF, as we approach the pole P’, the
circles parallel to the equator, which are unequally divided by the
circle of illumination /L A’, have their greateft portion in obfcurity ;
the duration of the nights therefore furpafles that of the days more
and more as we approach the poles, and the region contained in the
circle J'K’', defcribed by the point X’, being altogether in the unen,
lightened hemifphere, has no day.
The radius SO being directed towards the centre of the earth, falls
perpendicularly on its furface, and the point PH turning round the
axis PP’, defcribes a circle HG, all the points of which pafs in fuc-
ceffion perpendicularly under the fun; on each fide of this’ circle, the
folar rays become more and more oblique, and are horizontal on the
circles /X and /'K’, where they are only tangents to the furface of the
earth.
It follows from thence, that the fun attains a greater altitude above
the horizon, in proportion as the horizon is nearer to GH,
16. In figure 11, where the part OP of the terreftrial axis is inclined
in the oppofite direGion relative to the fun, what we have faid con-
cerning the hemifphere £P¥ muft be applied to the hemifphere EP'F,
and vice verfa, It is in the latter that the days are longer than the
nights, and the fin is vertical over the points of the circle G’H' the
contrary takes place in the hemifphere EPJ.
17. When the earth is at 4 or C, fig. 9, the folar ray SC or SA,
directed towards the centre of the earth, being perpendicular to the
axe
neareft to
rable,.. in
onfidered
> bodies ;
| at every
ghtened,
thich fe«
K’ drawn
rele fure.
and that
ence, are
he circle
ircle, is
equator
vhich is
receives
e earth,
le (the
is fome.-
divides
equall
f thef.
tion of
as the
e {pace
which
to the
ere.
ifphere
an the
by the
urity 5
3 more
in the
unene
» falls
id the
n fuce
Cy the
n the
of the
above
slined
| cone
INTRODUCTION. | xi
‘axis:PP’ (fect. 14.), this axis is in the plane of the -circle of illumina-
tion, which then bifects not only the equator, but all the circles
arallel to it, fo that the enlightened portion is equal to that in thadow.
Tn this pofition the duration of day and night is equal at every part’
of the terreftrial furface. The points 4 and C, and the periods at
which the centre of the earth is in thefe points, are therefore called
equinoxes. :
The time employed by the earth in paffing from the point 4 to B,
during which the pole P approaches nearer and nearer to the fun, is
the altronomical {pring to the hemifphere EP, becaule the plane
of the equator becoming more and more deprefled with regard to the
fun, this body appears elevafed towards the pole: when arrived at B,
the femi-axis BP of the earth having the greateft poffible] inclination
towards the fun, he appears at the leaft ifanos from the pole P, and
it is at, this point that the fummer of the hemifphere £ PF commences,
As the fituation of the axis changes very little for fome days to the
laces near the point B, it has been called the fummer /oljfice. This
talon latts till the earth arrives at the fecond equinox C, when the
autumn commences: then the pole P, being the fartheft from the fun,
this body, becoming more and more depreffed, returns into the plane
of the equator. After his paffage through the point C, the femi-
axis CP turning its inclination more and more to the fide oppofite to
the fun, he continues to appear more and more deprefled below the
horizon till the earth reaches D, the place where the inclination of
the femi-axis DP’ is directly oppofite to the fun, which has confe-
quently attained the limit of its depreffion below the equator. At this
point the winter commences to the hemifphere EP/, and the axis
remaining alfo many days in nearly the fame fituation, the point D
has beet. called the winter /o/fice.
The duration of this feafon is defined by the time employed by the
earth to return to the point 4, During this interval the pole Pap.
proaches the fun, which confequently appears to re-afcend towards the
eq’ itor, which it reaches when the earth is at .4, when it has finifhed
its annual revolution. i
With regard to the oppofite hemifphere EP’F, the feafons follow a
contrary order; the {pring of this hemifphere correfponding to-the
autumn of the other; the fummer to the winter; the autumn to the
{pring ; and the winter to the fummer.
18. In the early ftate of aftronomy, the apparent motion of the fun
was referred to the groupes of fixed ftars or conftellations which he
{eemed to traverfe fteceflisely, the number of which is twelve. The
{pace the fun traverfes in a fealon includes three of them; their names
and the characters employed fometimes to reprefent them, beginning at
that where the {pring equinox takes place, are, :
¥ Aries &% Taurus 1 Gemini
@ Cancer » Leo te Virgo
e& Libra m Scorpio ¢ 1 ai
ysCapricoraus os Aquarius Pifces.
They are alfo called the figns of the eodiac, becaufe they occupy
that band or zone on which the planets anciently known, which deviate
‘but little from the ecliptic, were always found ; but the planets recently
difcovered by Meffieurs Piazzi and Holbers. have orbits exceeding ver
much the limite afligned to the zodiac, particularly the one lalt dit.
eovered,
By
xii INTRODUCTION.
By the effect of a particular but very flow motion of the axis of the
earth, the conftellations no longer correfpond to the fame points of the
terreftrial orbit ; and as, befides, they differ from each other in their
extent, the name of figns has been given to the twelve divifions of the
circle which meafure the entire revolution of the earths; each of thefe
divifions comprehends 30 degrees ; and at prefent the fizns of the
zodiac are diftinguithed from the conftellations, this latter denomination
being particularly applied to the groupes of ‘tars,
By this arrangement the {pring equinox correfponds always to the
firft point of the fign aries; the fummer foJftice to the firft’ point of
cancer; the autumnal equinox to the firft point of libra; and the win-
ter folftice to the firft point of capricorn.
19. In appearing te approach alternately to both poles, the fun
paffes fucceflively over the zenith of ali the points included within. the
two circles GH and G’H', fig. 10 and 11, parallel to the equator, and
over which it is vertical at the fummer and winter folltices,
Thefe limits at which the fun feems to ftop in each hemifphere .
are called tropics ; that which correfponds to the f{ummer folftice is the
tropic of Cancer, and the other the tropic of Capricorn.
6 ihe circles JK and J'K’, which terminate towards each pole that
art of the earth which the fun enlightens when he is in the oppofite he-
mifphere, are called polar circles, and are diftinguifhed by the name of
the pole to which they belong: the one is the ardic polar circle, and the
other the antarGic polar circle. ;
‘ The polar circles and the tropics divide the furface of the earth into
five portions, called zones; thofe which are included in the polar
¢ircles, bemg deprived of the fun during a great part of the year, and
always receiving his rays very obliquely, are called frigid zones,
The zones included in each hemi pee between the polar circles and
the tropics never have the {un vertical, but receive his rays lefs obliquely
than the frigid zones, and are called temperate zones.
‘Lay, the fpace between the tropics, oyer every point of which
the fun is vertical twice a year, and to which the rays ure always
lefs oblique than to any other part of the globe, fuffering on this ace
count a confiderable degree of heat, is called the torrid zone.
The conftant prefence of the fun over this zone, and the force of
his rays, which fail almoft perpendicularly upon it, ought at length to
communicate to the earth a heat fufficiently powerful to extend to the
interior, even as far as the poles, and to produce that uniform tem.
ture which is preferved in caves and deep mines, notwithftanding the
alterations of heat and cold which take place on the furface of the
lobe, whether by the greater or lefs degree of obliquity in the rays of
e fun at the different feafons of the year, or by the effect of me,
teorological phenomena. '
20. The ancient geographers eftablithed a divifion of the earth into
climates, founded on the comparative duration of the day and night at
the fummer folftice. The firft climate commenced at the equator,
where the days, equal to the nights, are each 12 hours, and terminated
at that parallel of latitude on which the longeft day is 12 hours 39
minutes; the fecond climate terminates at the parallel, on which dhe
longeft day is 13 hours, and fo in fucceffion Er every half hour of
increafe in the duration of the folftitial day, as far as the polar circle,
where the day contains 24 hours. After this boundary the difference
of glimate was reckoned by months, becaule each pole pafles the et
intery
is of the
's of the
in their
is of the
of thefe
; of the
nination
3 to the
point of
he win-
the fun
thin. the
or, and
ifphere |
e is the
le that
fite he.
ame of
and the
th into
- polar
ir, and
es and
tquely
hich
lways
is ace
ce of
h to
o the
teme
¢ the
the
ys of
mee.
INTRODUCTION: xiii
interval between the equinoxes, or fix months in the fun’s light, and
fix months in darknefs; and the intermediate points are enlightened for
a longer or fhorter time, according to the diftance’, they are from the
pole. The firft climate, reckoned by months, terminates at the parallel
of latitude placed at the polar circle, all the points of which are expofed
to the fun for a month, and thus on to the pole, where day lafts fix
months of the year, and night the other fix months.”
21. The different diftribution of the feafons in the northern and
fouthern hemifpheres, was the caufe of t*e inhabitants of the earth
being ranked under denominations which a; ‘ no longer in ufe, but which
ought to be known, becdufe they are met with fometinies in rather an<
cient authors, A
The people who are fituated, one to the fouth and the other to
the north oF the equator, but under the fame meridian and the fame
latitude in each hemiiphere, are Antacians 3 they reckon the fame hours
at the'fame moment, but are in oppofite feafons, |
‘Thofe who are on the fame fide of the equator, but under oppofite
meridians, are Pertecians ; they reckon oppofite hours at, the fame
inftant, it being midnight with one when the others are at noon, and
yet vérfa, but being both in the fame hemifphere they have the fame
eafons.
The ancient geographers have alfo eftablithed a divifion of the in«
habitants of the earth from the fituation of their fhadows. They called
Heterofcians, thofe who are placed in the temperate zone, becaufe their
fhadow is always turned towards the pole.
Perifcians, thofe who, inhabiting the frigid zones, “end enjoying the
prefence of the fun during one period of the year for 24 hours, behold
this body revolve round their horizon, and proje& their fhadow in every’
dire&tion.
Amphifeians of Afcians, the inhabitants of the torrid zone, whofe
fhadows at noon are alternately proje&ted towards either pole,
By thus turning their attention to confider local phenomena, they
eftablith three fituations of the /phere, that is to fay of that affemblage
of various eircles of which I have fpoken, and to which we refer the
pofitions of the ftars. ‘
They faid that to the inhabitants df the equator the pofition of thefe
circles was that of a right /phere, becaufe the plane of the circle then
paffing through the zenith is perpendicular to the horizon, and that
confequently the ftars, which in their diurnal motion feemed to defcribe
circles parallel to the equator, appear to rife and defcend perpendicularly
to the horizon.
To the inhabitants from the equator to the poles, as the circle cuts
the horizon obliquely, the {phere is oblique, becaufe the diurnal motion
of the ftars is inclined to the horizon. Finally, at both poles the ho-
rizon is the equator itfelf; and the ftars feem to move parallel to this
~~ ~ inhabitants, therefore, of thefe two points, have the Sphere
arallel.
' 22. The extent of the zones and climates is determined by the in-
clination of the axis of the earth to the os of the ecliptic ; and this
inclination is difcovered by obferving at the fame place, the greateft and
leaft altitudes of the fun, when it paffes the meridian at the | ever and
winter folftice.
For fince it.deviates equally on each fide the equator, at both thefe.
periods the points of the equator ought to pafs the meridian at the
mean altitude between the two extreme altitudes of the fun, and their.
difference
t
}
Zz f
H
4 5 i
| 5 ,
4 H
4
j j
A
5
he
q
i
4 t
x
eI
|
)
|
H
a
xiv INTRODUCTION.
difference is double the angular diftance by which the fun is elevated
and depreffed above and below the equator; we determine, therefore,
at the fame time this quantity and the pofition of the ¢quator to the
horizon, which gives the latitude of the place of obfervation.
At Paris, for example, the altitude of the fun above the horizon
is 64° 38’ at the fummer folftice, and only 17° 42° at the winter:
folftice.
64° 38’
17 42
The fum of thefe altitudes is 82 20
The half 41 10
gives the altitude of the equator above the horizon at Paris, and taking:
the complement to go” we find that the diftance from the equator to
the zenith or the latitude of Paris is 48° 50’. Subtracting one from
the other.
The altitudes 64° 38°
. 17 42
We find the difference 46 56
And the half 23 «28
gives the arc by which the fun deviates from the equator towards either
ole.
This arc, which meafures the angle FOH, fig. 10, meafures alfo that
which the plane of the equator and ecliptic make with each other, or
the obliquity of the ecliptic with regard to the equator.
» The complement of the angle FO is the angle POH which meas,
fures the inclination of the terreftrial axis OP on the plane of the
ecliptic reprefented by the line OS, and taking 23° 23’ from go° we
get 66° 32.
It is to be remarked alfo that the arc 7P which meafures the dif-
tance of the polar circle JK from the pole P, being the complement of
the arc PH, and confequently equal to FA’ is 23°28’; the com-
plement 66° 32’ of this arc aunts the value of the arc JZ, or of
the latitude of all-the points of the polar circle.
The latitude of the tropics GH and G' H’ is equal to the arc ZG,
and confequently is 23°28’.
23. We may deduce from thefe refults the extent of the different
gones. The frigid zones include 23° 28’ of latitude on each fide the
ole. The temperate zones, or the fpace between the polar circle and
the tropic, or between 66° 32’ and 23° 28' of latitude extend 43° 4’ 5.
finally the torrid zone terminated by the tropics at 23° 28° diftance on
each fide the equator, includes 46° 56’ of latitude. From thefe data,
by the affiftance, of elementary geometry, the fuperficies of thefe
zones may eafily be calculated, and it is found that 83, 519, 796, re-
prefent refpectively the frigid zone, the temperate zone, and the torrid
zone, or taking the whole area of the globe as unity,
The frigid zones, occupy rots
The temperate zones eS
The torrid zone Tece
Thefe dimenfions are not conftant, for obfervation and the calcu.
lation of the caufes which producé the planetary motions, have proved’
that the inclination of the terreftrial equator relatively to the ecliptic
diminifhes
elevated
erefore,
to the
horizon
winter:
| taking.
ator to
e from
3 either
fo that
her, or
h meas,
of the
bo° we
e dif.
ent of
com-
or of
£G,
ferent
e the
le and
B° 4 5,
eon
data,
thefe
Dy Tee
orrid
pi
INTRODUCTION. xv
diminifhes every century by 50”, till it arrives at a term which is not yet
exactly afcertained, after which it will begin to increafe.
24. It is'by the apparent motion of the fun that time has been regue
lated.
The duration of the afronomical day is marked by the period that
elapfes between two confecutive trantits of the fun over the meridian of
the fame place : it is divided into 24 hours ; thetropical year is the period
between the paffage of the fun through one of the equinodctial points
and its return to the fame point ; it includes 365 days 5 hours, 48’ 48”.
As the pofition of the equinoxes on the plane of the ecliptic depends
on the fituation of the terrettrial axis, it char'ges relatively’ to the ftars
in confequence of a flight motion of this axis, fo that the equinodtial
points retrogade about 50” a year, with reference to the ftars which
conftantly appear to advance this quantity in the direction of the
ecliptic, and this.circumftance prolongs a little the annual revolution of
the earth, when compared with the lars; it is then called the /idercal
year, and its duration is 365 days 6 hours, 9! 12”.
The revolution of the earth is performed in a period rather lefs than
24 hours, becaufe in this {pace of time the earth not only defcribes one
revolution but as much more as is requifite to bring the fame terrettrial
meridian to the fun, and which angular {pace is equal to that which it
defcribes in the fame time in a contrary direétion in its annual revolu-
tion round the fun; fo that the interval between two tranfits of a fixed -
ftar over the fame meridian which meafures the real duration of the ter-
reftrial rotation, is only 23°56’ 4”. From this difference the ftars ape
pear to gain upon the fun every day about 4’ of time in their tranfit over
the meridian.
The period of the rotation of the earth is always uniform, but it is
not thus with the duration of the day, which is compofed, as we have
juft faid, of the time of its rotation, and of that which it employs to
defcribe round its axis, an angle which compenfates the quantity which
it has turned round the fun by the effeé& of its annual motion; for this
other motion which is not performed in a circle but in an ellipfe, of
which the fun occupies one of the foci, is not uniform, and takes place
in the plane of the ecliptic, which is inclined to that of the equator,
From the concurrence of thefe caufes the duration of the day, compared
with that of the rotation of the earth, is fometimes lefs and fomeiimes
greater than 24 hours; and the feries of thefe differences conftitutes
what is called the eguation of time, which muft, in fome feafons be added
and in others fubtraéted from the hour marked by a clock regulated by
the fun or true time, to obtain mean time, to which altronomical tables
refer, and by means of which we at prefent calculate with great pre.
cifion the motions of the heavenly bodies, and particularly thofe of the
fun and moon.
25. The laft mentioned body is confidered as a fatellite of the earth,
becaufe revolving round it, it accompanies the earth in its revolution
round the fun, aR
The revolution of the moon round the earth, when referred to the
equinoétial points is uccomplifhed in 27 days 7 hours 43’ 4”; but when
compared with the fun, which during this time appears to advance in
the fame direQiion, it employs 29 days 12 hovrs 44’ 3” to pafe through,
the whole circumference of the heavens, withthe hate defcribed by
the fun added. This is the /ynodical revolution or the lunar month,
which begins at the moment when the mioon is direétly between the fun
and
eRe ee AEE
Li bas A
oe
Sea
es
xii INTRODUCTION:
and earth, which is ealled én conjunétion; This afpeé is reprefented In
fig. 12, where § is the fun, 7 the earth, and Z the moon, :
_ During this revolution the mgon affumes felative to the fun all pof-
fible fituations, from. which refult her different appearances or phafes}
in fa&t, the moon being an opake body like all the planets, can only be
feen when fhe refleéts to the earth the Iyminous rays received from the
fun, and it is requifice fér this that the fhou'd turn towards us at lea
a ae of that hemifphere which being dire@ly oppofite to the fun is
enlightened by it., aa ay Wc higee
he moon then only becomes vifible to ts when hating paffed the
point L’ the begins to turn towards the edrth a pottion or fegment of
er enlightened difk, which increafes as the feparates from the fun to
pafs to the other fide, L”, the earth then being between the fun and
moon fees the whole enlightened hemifphere of tlie lune; which in this
{tate appears full of in oppofition to the fun: talk ele get
The conjunétion and oppofition of the noon with regatd to the fun,
or the new and full moon, are the /yzygies. When. the moon is diftant
from the fun by a quarter of her orbit, as at J.’ and L”, the is in gua-
drature; we then only perceive half her enlightened hemifphere, It is
called her firft or lat quarter according a6 her convexity is turned to the
weft or eaft: : ; is
_ 26. This explanation of the phafes of the moon feems immediately
fubject to a difficulty which leads to the caufe of eclipfes. ;
We are tempted to believe that the moon ought always, when fhe i8
in conjunction with the fun, td conceal his dilk totally, or at leaft par-
tially ; and when it. is in oppofition, to be iminerfed in the fhadow
which the earth carries behirid it, and ceafing to be enlightened by the
fun: fhould become invifible. There would take place in the firft
cafe an eck, ve of the fun, and in the fecond an eelipfe of the moon.
Thefe phenomena, in faé, often take place under the circumftances
I have defcribed, and indeed often in.a year; but they do not happen
at all the new and full moons, becaufe the orbit defcribed bythe moon
round the earth not being in the fame plane with that of the earth round
‘the fun, it happens moft frequently that the conjunétion of the moon is
‘a little above or below the fun, and a little above or below the fhadow
of the earth at the oppofition.
However as the orbit of the moon interfeés the ecliptic in two points
called nodes, its conjunction and oppofition which may happen at the
oints of her orbit, fometimes take place near the nodes, and then there
is an eclipfe of the fun or moon.
To explain this circumftance better, I have joined to fig. 12, which
reprefents the orbits of the earth and moon on a geometrical plane, fig. 13,
which thews the /edfton or profile following the line ST. ‘This line ST
reprefents the plane of the ecliptic, and LL” that of the lunar orbit,
The infpection of this figure is fufficient without any explanation to
fhew when there will or will not be an eclipfe. Befides the detail of
thefe circumftances and of the calculation of eclipfes belongs to aftros
nomy, and I have only to {peak of that {cience as far as regards the obs
fervation of thefe phenomena, for the purpofe of afcertaining the lone
gitude of a place on the earth, ;
27. It has been already feen (1 ") that this depends on the determine
ation of the time reckoned at the fame inftant in two different places,
* by the obfervation of an inftantaneous phenomenon that can be obferved
¥ ‘
at beth points,
?
INTRODUCTION. xvib
snted | The eclipfes of the moon accomplifh this perfe@lly; for a given
nee ta oint oF the lunar dif is immerfed i the earth’s fhadow at the ye :
all pof- inftant to all the places where the moon is vifible.
phates And the {pots fcattered over its difk afford the means of making
only be many obfervations during the fame eclipfe, by marking carefully. the
rom the time of the difappearance of each {pot at its entrance into the fhadow or
at leak immerfion, and that of its coming out of the fhadow or emerfion. If
efunis the fame obfervations have been made at a place the pofition of which
is known, the difference between the time determined at each place by
fed the the fame phenomenon gives the difference of longitude. If all the re.
meni cot fults do not exattly agree, the mean muft be taken.
fun to It is not always neceffary to have obfervations correfponding to thofe
Sa and made at the place, the longitude of which is to be determined. If the
in thie point is very diftant and has not yet been determined with great preci-
fion, the calculations made in good almanacks, fuch as the Conaiffance
the fun; ; des tems of the French, or the Nautical Almanack of the Englifh, are
| diftant pil aaa to {upply the place of thofe obfervations which we are
: . eprived of.
e tia : It is thus that the eclipfe of the moon on the 3oth of July, 1787,
A to the obferved by the aftromomer Beauchamp, at Ca/bine, a place fituated in
the vicinity of the Cafpian fea, enabled Mr. Lalande to determine the
ediately bid ca of that place..
“he end of the eclipfe or the total emerfion of the lunar difk took
on the is place at Cafbine at
waft pare Seg 7° 45' 30” folar time
thadow And the calculation for Paris gives 4 36 38
py she The difference 3 8 52
corref;,onds to the difference of the meridians of Paris and Cafbine. If
nftances we convert it into degrees at the rate of 15 to an hour, which gives
happert Is minutes of a degree for a minute of time, and 15 feconds of a degree’
he moon for a fecond of time, we find
h roun h °
moon is Ag 2, %,
fhadow For 52" 13’
P is Tota. 47 13
n there _ This, then, reckoning from the meridian of Paris, is the longitude of
which Cafbine, refulting from the above obfervation,
Bo. v4 There may be fome uncertainty in this refult, not only pecaufe there
hie or was no correfponding obfervation at the place, the longitude of which
orbit was known, but alfo, becaufe we cannot be certain within a few feconds
ies . of the phafes of an eclipfe of the moon, and that 4’ of time give a mi-
etail of nute of adegrec. Notwithftanding this imperfection the obfervation of
Kg lunar eclipfes ought not to be neglected whenever an occafion occure,
She-Sie when we travel in a country of which the latitudes and longitudes are
hb lone but little known, becaufe the means of determining the longitude are
few, and have all fome degree of uncertainty. %
9 li - From, what has been hid the reader thould comprehend, that if
om amore .planets which, like the earth, defcribe orbits round the
es fun, there fhould .be any with fatellites revolving round them, thefe
e
hodies being in fimilar circumstances to thofe which produce eclipfes of
athe the moon, will be immerfed in the fhadow of their ei crbe and if their
‘eer c difappearance
+
| ae)
| Bis) (uy!
| : A
| By
| i
4 q
4
a Bh
b ‘ {
h
| |
f
Be
i F i
ig
5 Me iii
G i i
i
- el
| ¥ E
i i f
; Oh
4 }
|
viii INTRODUCTION..
difappearance and reappearance could be obferved in different: places ‘at
the fame time, they would enable us to determine longitudes in the fame
manner as the eclipfes of the moon. :
This is the important use to geography. that is made of the eclipfes
of the four fatellites that accompany Jupiter, a planet remarkable for
its magnitude and the brilliance of the light which it reflects to us,
There are also two other planets, Saturn and Herfchel, which are ac-
companied by fatellites, but their minutenefs and diftance rendering them
fcarcely perceptible but in the moft powerful telefcopes ; the obferva-
tion of their eclipfes is hardly practicable. he
The utility at the eclipfes of Jupiter’s fatellites has induced aftrono.
mers not only to obferve affiduoufly all thofe which are vifible, but alfo
to calculate tables to prediét them, with fuch exaétnefe, that, like the
lunar eclipfes, the correfponding obfervations are not requifite.
28. The folar eclipfes are alfo employed in the determination of lon-
gitudes ; but the calculation is not fo fimple as for eclipfes of the moon
they can only be performed by thofe very converfant with aftronomy ;
Mr. Lalande, by paying great attention to this fubje&, has, by means
of them, rectified the pofitions of a great many important places.
The caufe of the difficulty of this calculation is that the relative fitu-
ations of the fun and moon are not the fame at all the points of the
earth where thefe two bodies are feen at the fame time.
What takes place on this occafion may be obferved with the clouds,
which, when feen from a particular point, appear under the fun, and
caft their. fhadow over a limited {pace, out of which the whole difk of
the fun may be feen, A fpetator on the edge of the fhadow perceives
a part of the fun’s disk, and the different appearances’ change every
in{tant by the effet of the relative motions of the fun, the cloud, and
the fpe&ator.
To apply the obfervation of an eclipse of the fun to finding the lon-
itude o. places, it is requ to have different phafes determined as
the beginning and end, and from thence deduce the middle; the data
proper to atcertain the refpective pofition of the lines traverfed by the
centres of the fun and moon during the eclipfe muft be taken from the
aftronomical tables, to enable us to calculate the inftant when thefe two
bodies were in conjunétion. Knowing the hour when’ this happened
at a given place, we deduce from the difference of thefe times the dif-
ference of longitude.
_ It often.happens that the moon eclipfes the fixed ftars; and by de.
termining from obfervation of the circumftances of this phenomenon,
which is called the occultation, the moment when the centre of the moon
is in conjunétion with the ftar, which afcertains the abfolute pofition of
the moon, we may, either by calculations made for this purpofe in the
aftronomical almanacks or by correfponding obfervations, find the time
of this conjunétion, at a place the pofition of which is known, and the
difference of longitude is found as in the preceding cafes.
29. The objet of all thefe methods, in fact, in this: to determine
t
at the place, the longitude of which is required, the pofition of a ce-
leftial body at a given inftant, and to deduce from this pofition the time
which is reckoned at the’ fame inftant at a place whofe pofition is
known, It may be perceived by this defcription of the problemthat
the celeftial body thould have relatively to the earth a motion f tly:
rapid, that ita pofition with regard to the fixed ftars or other ce
bodies that ferve as a term of comparifon, may vary confiderably in the’
fpace of 24 hours.
14 The
Lawet~ ne. a ee a a ee
aces ‘at
e fame:
clipfes
ale for
to us,
are ace
them
bfervae.
iftrono-
yut alfo
like the
of lon-
moon 3
ynomy $
y means
ive fitue
of the
clouds,
un, and
difk of
perceives
re every
ud, and
the lon-
ined a8
he data
‘ by the
om the
hefe two
appened
te dif-
by de-
lomenon,
he moon
fition of
e in the
he time
and the
termine
of ace.
the time
fition ia
ex that
gently
celeftial"s
ly in the
The
INTRODUCTION. ix
The moon is moft proper for this purpofe, becaufe as it travels nearly
13 degrees a day, one minute of a degree in its change of place corres
fponds to rather lefs than two minutes of time, or 30 minutes of a des
gree of longitudes and as we may by taking the angular diftance bes
tween the moon and the {tars or fun, afcertain its fituation with the
greateft precifion, the time reckoned under a given meridian at the
moment of obfervation may by this means be determined within two
minutes. :
This operation has been fo much facilitated by inftruments of very
accurate conftru@tion, by tables, and by various formula contrived for
this purpofe, that it can be performed almoft daily at fea, which has
confiderably advanced our knowledge of geography, efpecially fince
by the example of Cook we have adopted the ufe .of time-keepers, or
chronometers, which ferve in the intervuls when the diftances between
the moon and fun or stars cannot be obferved.
30. The ufe of time-keepers alone would be fufficient if they could be
conftructed with fuch perfection that being once fet to the hour under a
given meridian they would preferve the fame motion during the whole
voyage ; becaufe they would then always mark the time at that meridian,
which being compared with the time at. the place required, would give
the difference of time, and confequently that of the meridians.
But if the exertions of Harrifon, of Julian le Roi, of Berthant, and
of all the celebrated artifts who have endeavoured to bring to perfection
this ufeful piece of mechanifm, have failed in rendering the motion of
chronometers thus perfeétly uniform, they have at leaft approached fo
near it, that these chronometers do not vary perceptibly for a confider-
able interval of time, notwithftanding the agitation which the fea pros
duces in the vessel.
31. By confidering what has been faid above we may form a very
complete idea of the means of fixing the pofition of different points on
the earth by their latitude and longitude, which geography derives from
altronomy. We arrive at -thefe refults with the greater exatnefs in
proportion to our precifion in the obfervations, and in the calculations
which arife from them. ‘To avoid rendering too complicated the expla-
nation of the principles on which the methods which I have fummarily
explained depend, I have avoided pointing out many corrections necef-
fary to free the obfervations from the effe&ts of fome optical illufions
which affect them, and from the combination of fome flight motions,
both real and apparent, which the progrefs of aftronomy and the pro-
found knowledge of the laws of the fyftem of the world have enabled
us to know and appreciate.
Thefe are che moft fimple :
We know that a ray of light paffing from one medium into another —
of greater denfity ‘fuffers a refradion, because it approaches to the
sgl baa to the furface of the ftrata which it fucceffively traverfes.
or this reafon the heavenly bodies are never feen in their real places ;
the ray which renders them vifible to us elevates them above the horizon,
by a quantity fo much the greater as they are nearer to this circle, and
which alfo depends on the ftate of the atmofphere at the time of obe
fervation. ‘This quantity fhould be known for each degree of altitude
abovéghe horizon, that it may be fubtra&ted from the obferved, which
is a greater than the real altitude, except in cafe where the obje&
‘ie in the zenith; becaufe then the ray of light, traverfing the atmo:
Apherical ftrata perpendicularly, does not fuffer any refraGtion. It has
‘been remarked (8) that the obfervation of altitudes was always referred
c2 to
| ; INTRODUCTION.
ta the centre of the earth, confidering the rays of light as all coming
to the earth in parallel dire&tions,.and confequently es i from the
_eonfiderable diftanee of the ftars from the earth in proportion to its
radius, the angle AGC (fig. 3.) ; but the planets are fo fufficiently near
to the earth for it to be requifite, ssartionitenti when great accuracy is
required, that this angle fhould be taken into confideration. Its effect
is to deprefs the object below its real fituation with regard to the centre
of the earth, A ar at G, for example, would appear at the point 4,
in the horizon, while at the centre of the earth it would be elevated
by the angle GCN, equal to AGC, becaufe the lines MN and mn are
arallel, The angle 4GC, formed as we fee by the direétion of the
Fines in which the ftar would be feen from the centre of the earth, and
from a point on its furface, is called parallax. It changes with the
altitude of the ftar, and becomes nothing in the zenith, becaufe the
centre C and the » the place 4 and the ftar are then all on the fame
ftraight line ; but it is a maximum in the horizon ; it amounts to 8” 6
for the fun, and for the moon it varies from 54’ to 62’ according to its
different diftances from the earth. Jt is the exact determination of this
angle, for the fun and moon, that has made us acquainted with the
abfolute diftance of thefe bodies from the earth, from whence, by
the laws of Kepler, the diitances of the other planets have been
deduced. ;
The effe& of parallax being contrary to that of refraCtion, it muft
be added to the obferved altitude to bring it to; and it fhould be taken
into confideration as well as refraction, in all angles obferved or calcu-
lated that depend on altitude.
It is the difficulty of a gent, | the effect of thefe corrections, on
the apparent diftance of the moon from the fun or ftars, to convert it
to the real diftance, that renders the calculation of the longitude by thie
method fo complicated.
When the fituation of a celeftial body, fuch as the fun or moon,
whofe difk has a perceptible diameter, is required, it is the limb that we
obferve, and the femidiameter must be added or fubtraéted from this to
get the pofition of the centre ; becaufe this is the point always given in
aitronomical calculations.
32. By the affiftance of thefe corre€tions, for which there are tables
ready conftruéted, we can determine with precifion the real altitude of
a celeitial object above the horizon. If we take it on the meridian,
and its diftance from the equator is known, we may deduce the latitude
of the place.
The tables of the fun’s motion, or the ephemerides of this body,
which are previoufly calculated, give its diftance from the equator, or
declination, for every day in the year,
We may therefore find the latitude of a place at any time, becaufe
we get the height of the equator above the horizon, by fubtra@in
the fun’s declination from its altitude if it is above the equator, ae
adding it if it is below ; a circumftance that we may always afcertaim
by the fituation of the thadow and by the feafon.
After having found, a priori, either by the method defcribed in 10
or in 22, the latitude of their obfervatory, aftronomers have endeavoured
to determine the diftances of the principal fixed ftars from the equator,
and the time which elapfes between their refpective tranfits over the
meridian, and the point of the ecliptic correpfonding to the vernal
equinox. They have conitructed catalogues, in which thefe refults are
given, and by the affiftance of which we may. at any. time owe
5 the
coming
om the
to its
ly near
racy 19
s eltect
» centre
pint 4,
levated
mn are
of the
th, and
ith the
ufe the
he fame
0 8" 6
i to its
ee this
ith the
ce, by
re been
it muft
ve taken
r calcue
ions, on
nvert it
by this
moon,
that we
this to
piven in
tables
tude of
eridian,
latitude
s body,
ator, or
becaufe
|
lor, an
{certain
1 in 10
avoured
quator,
ver the
vernal
ults are
bititute
the
INTRODUCTION. xxi
the ftars for the fun in finding the latitude, and which multiply the
means of determining this important element of geographical politions.
33- All thefe obiervations prefuppofe the pofition of the meridian
to be known, The polar ftar indicates it very nearly in the northern
hemifphere, but it is the fun’s motion is the moft convenient way of
afcertaining it with any degree of accuracy.
For, on the day of the folftice, the fun, which does not change its
diftance from the equator perceptibly, feems to defcribe a circle parallel
to it, and of which the portion BCD, fig. 2, included above the horia
zon, is divided equally by the meridian, it therefore follows, that its
altitude is precifely the fame taken at equal intervals before and after
" dts tranfit over the meridian, and that, reciprocally, if we take the
fun’s altitude in the morning, and wait for the moment when it returns
to this altitude in the evening, the moment of its meridian tranfit will
be the medium between thefe two.
We may eafily comprehend that the length of the fhadows of bodies
depends not only on their own height, but on that of the fun above
the plane on which they reft. If this plane is horizontal, and we raife
a vertical 4D upon it, fig. 14, SD being the direétion of the folar ray,
its length will depend on the angle SC, which is evidently the height
of the fun above the horizon.
When the fun, therefore, having paffed the meridian, is found to be
at the fame altitude on the other fac, in the dire@tion §’ D, the thadow
AB of the vertical 4D will again hecome equal to the fhadow AC 5
and taking the medium between the direction of both, by bife&-
ing the angle BAC with the right line AN, we thall obtain the
meridian,
Tt ought to be obferved, that if we meafure at the fame time the
length of the fhadow and of the ftick, we may, by the folution of the
rectilinear triangle C.1D, in which the fides 4D and AC are known,
calculate the angle ACD, or the fun’s altitude. We get the meridian
altitude if we meafure the length of the fhadow when it falls in the
direction AN. It is by this means that the early aftronomers got the
altitudes of the ftars; the extremity of an obelifk, or an opening in
an upright wall, gave the vertical 4D. This fimple inftrument is
called a gnomon ; but it has been abandoned fince inftruments have been
brought to great perfection, of fmall dimerfions, which meafure angles
direétly by the arcs of circles.
Thefe latter are ufed even for the determination of the meridian, b
combining them with clocks of extreme regularity. For this purpofe
an altitude of the fun is taken in the morning, and the time marked ;
we then wait till the fame time in the evening, when the fun has the
Jame altitude, and taking the mean of the interval, we get the time
which has elapfed between its meridian tranfit and one, the obfers
vations.
If, for example, the clack marked at the fame altitude in the
morning, ° . * - 9° 45’ 30”
In the evening : - - - 2 23 12
The interval between thefe two moments being - 4 37 42
Thehalf - « ot: tee oe - 2 18 gt
Added to the time of the firhaltitude + + 9 45 30
Gives % AY Mig . - 42 4 ai
C3 for
INTRODUCTION.
for tlie time marked by the clock at the inftant of the fun’s tranfit
over the meridian.
By repeating thefe obfervations of corre/ponding altitudes; we are
able to regulate the clock, and to get very exactly the moment of the
fun’s meridian tranfit, from which we immediately deduce the dire&tion
of the meridian line.
It is to facilitate the explanation of this procefs that I have fuppofed
the fun to be at the folftice ; becaufe it may be employed at any time
of the year, by applying to the refult a flight corre¢tion for the change
of the fun’s declination, in the interval between the two altitudes which
influences its duration; but this correction is always very {mall, and may
be negleé&ted when we make ufe of fhadows to find the meridian, at
leat if the fun is not very near the equinox, at which time the daily
variations in his declination is a maximum.
34. The true time may be found by a fingle altitude of the fun, or
a ftar, when the’ latitude of the place and the declination of the objec
is known, and the pofition of the meridian may then be deduced, It
is done thus:
Two great arcs are fuppofed to pafs through the zenith, fig. 15,
through the pole, and through the objec.
The firft, which is the vertical, in which the ftar is, meafures its
diftance from the zenith ; the fecond its diftance from the pele. Thefe
two arcs form, with the part of the meridian Z ?, comprehended between
the pofe and the zenith, a fpherical triangle, in which the three fides
are known ; becaufe ZP is the complement of the height of the pole
PN; ZS the complement of the real altitude HS ; and the arc PS is
deduced from the declination of the ftar, which muft be fubtra@ed
from the diftance of the pole from the equator, or go°, if the object
is between the pole and the equator, or added to this diftance if it is
on the other fide the equator. With thefe data, and by the refolution
of the {pherical triangles, the angles PZS and ZPS may be calculated,
the fame as thofe of the planes which include the fides ZP and PS,
ZP and ZS. The firit marks the difference which there is between
the meridian of the place 4, and that on which the ftar is at the
moment of obfervation ; and if this be reduced into time, it gives the
interval that fhould elapfe between the moment of obfervation and the
patlage of this ftar over the meridian ; it is called, on this account, the
orary angle,
When tt is the fun that is to be obferved, this time fhould be added
to or fubtra&ted from 12", according as the obfervation is made before
or after its tranfit over the meridian. When we obferve a fixed ftar,
the time of its tranfit muft be calculated, which may be cafily done by
means of the data furnifhed by the catalogues already mentioned.
Theangle PZS, aa it gives the angle which the plane ZAN of the
meridian of the place makes with the vertical plane ZH drawn through
the ftar, both perpendicular to the plane AZHN, is meafured by the
eagle ot the common [ections 4H and AN of the firft and fecond with
the third,
If, therefore, the dire&tion of 4H be marked upon the horizontal
plane at the moment of obfervation, the direction of the meridian MN
» gnay be deduced.
f ZS be taken ee the point § will then be at #7 in the horizon, and
the horary angle ZPS will give the difference between the hour of the
ftar’s meridian tranfit and that of its real rifing or fetting. If the hour
of its apparent rifing or fetting is required, the fefraction which “—
the
tranfit
we are
t of the
irection
ippofed
ny time
change
s which
ind may
lian, at
he daily
fun, or
e object
ed. It
fig. 15,
(ures its
Thefe
between
ree fides
the pole
c PS is
btracted
e objec
if it is
folution
ulated,
nd PS,
het ween
at the
ves the
and the
nt, the
added
before
d ftar,
lone by
of the
hrough
by the
d with
INTRODUCTION.
the object above the horizon, muft be added to the arc Z// or go,
and the parallax which depreffes it, fubftracted from it. :
The angle PZS, calculated according to thefe circumftances, gives
the diftance which the ftar, at the moment when it is in the horizon,
is from the north or fouth point of this circle, according to the deno-
mination of the pole P. ; ;
The obfervation of this diftance, which is called the rifing or fetting
amplitude according as it is obferved at the rifing or fetting, and that
of the azimuth or the angle comprized between the vertical. ZS and the
meridian ZP, are ufeful to afcertain how much the direétion of the
magnetic needle varies from the meridian line, in order that the compafs
may be made ufe of to find this line.
- 95+ The calculation of the rifing and fetting of the fun leads to the
determination of the duration of twilight, becaufe it is fufficient to
augment the arc ZH hy 18°, the meafure of the depreffion, after
which the rays of the fun refleted by the atmofphere, can no longer
reach thé furface and produce that faint light which appears before the
rifing and after the fetting of the fun.
By making the preceding calculation for different latitudes and
different declinations of the fun, the precife duration of the longeft
and fhorteft days, and of the longeft and fhorteft twilights, is obtained.
36. The figure and magnitude of the earth is determined by obferv-
ing the exact difference of latitude between two places, and meafuring,
with extreme precifion, the diftance between them, in fome ftandard
linear meafure. This is one of the moft delicate operations of praétical
geometry. Many attempts to determine the figure of the earth have
*ecn made at different periods, but the firit that deferves notice was
u.° urdertaken by Picard in 1670. This ingenious aftronomer (one
wo. ¢ ‘aoft diftinguifhed members of the academy of ng eee le the
aj; vation of telefcopes to aftronomical inftruments inftea of the
plain fights formerly in fe, formuch increafed their power, that he was
enabled to determine, within a few feconds, angles which before could
only be meafured to as many minutes,
The reader who is familiar with the elements of geometry, and
acquainted with the method of determining the diftances and relative
politions of places on the earth’s furface, will readily form an idea
of the great advantages which fcience derived from this important im-
provement, and of the great fuperiority of Picard’s meafurement over
other operations that previoufly had been undertaken for the fame
xxi
Purpol ,
The arc of the meridian, meafured by Picard, extended from Mal.
voiline to Amiens: these places were trigonometrically connected by
a chain of triangles (fig. 16), and the equality of three angles of a
triangle to 180° offered an obvious method of verification. The ob«
ferved angles were; not always found to equal this quantity, but th
very {mall difcordance fthewed the errors of the operation to be include
within very narrow ‘limits.
The determination of the angles of thefe triangles gave the relation
of their fides to each other, but not their real magnitude ; but when the
value of one of them is known, the reft are readily determined. To
effe& this a bafe was meafured, with inconceivable care, on the high
road between Villejuive and Juvify, Its length was 5663 toifes: with
this line renee in the figure by 42), and which forma one fide
of the triangle ABC, the fides AC, BC, were calculated: thefe were
in the fame manner employed to determine the fides of the triangles
c4
INTRODUCTION.
BCD, BCE, conne&ed with the former, and thus the whole feries of
triangles were determined, which connected the extreme ftations, Mal.
voifine and Amiens.
To complete the operation it was neceffary to determine the length
of the line which joins thefe ftations, and its fituation with refpeé&t to
the meridian, for the purpofe of computing their meridional diftance ;
and laftly, to afcertain the amplitude of this meridional arc, that is,
the number of degrees, minutes, and feconds intercepted by it, by which
its relative proportion to the whole circumference is ultimately deters
mined.
This latter part of the operation is entirely aftronomical, and requires
that the eeotth diftance of fome ftar fhould be accurately obferved at
each ffation. The ftar chofen by Picard was a bright ftar in Caf.
fiopee: it was chofen becaufe it pafled near the zenith, to avoid the
uncertainty of refraction, the effe&t of which, at low altitudes, was but
imperfe@lly afcertained at that time. The difference of latitude between
Malvoifine and Sourdon, near Amiens, was found to be 1° 11’ 57"
which correfponded to a meridional diftance of 68,430 toifes, and the
value of a degree was eftimated at 57,064 toifes.
The difference of latitude between Amiens and Malvoifine was found
to be 1° 22’ 55”, and their meridional diftance 78,830 toifes, which gives
the degree equal to 57,057 toifes: the mean ultimately adopted was
57,060 toifes.
7. The circumference of the earth, fuppofed circular, is eafily
dudes from thefe data, fince every circumference contains 360 de-
grees: dividing every degree into 20 parts, called marine leagtes, each
equal to 2853 toifes, the circumference of the earth will contain 7200
bs thefe leagues.
It now appeared, that if the figure of the earth was not exaétly
{pherical, it at leat differed from that form but a very {mall quantity.
tt may be obferved that, independently of the remark (No.2), the
circular form of the earth’s fhadow, in eclipfes of the moon, and the
{pherical appearances of the celettial bodies that admit of examination,
feemed to indicate, in a decided manner, the true figure of the earth;
neverthelefs it might have happened, that a confiderable variation from
a perfe&t {phere might have fubfilled, which would not eafily have
been detected. But ftronger argument in favour of this hypothefis
was deduced from this circumflance, that navigators had always em-
ployed one meafure of a degree on every part of the globe, without
any fenfible error; for, had very great variation fubfifted, they would
eafily have perceived it, from their daily practice of comparing their
difference a, latitude with the eftimated run of the fhip,
The {pherical hypothefis being thus confirmed,
Its diameter, calculated from the computed !
circumference by
The radius 1146
And its fuperficial furface 16,501,200
38. Notwithftanding the exactness of Picard’s meafurement, aftro.
nomy foon indicated methods of afcertaining, with greater precifion,
the figure of the earth, and likewife a proof of ite diurnal rotation;
an hypothefis that had long been adopted, to give a more plaufible
explanation of the apparent motion of the celeftial fphere. Huygheue
was the firft philofopher who, refleGting on the centrifugal force
acquired by all bodies turning on an axis fand exemplified in the path
of a ftone proje&ed from a fling), fufpected that the fluid matter
diftributed
EE —
feries of
s, Mal.
e length
{pect to
liftance 5
that is,
y which
ly deters
requires
erved at
in Caf-
void the
was but
between
11’ 5 a",
and the
as found
ich gives
ated was
is eafily
360 de-
les, each
in 7200
exactly
uantity.
2), the
and the
ination,
p earth ;
n from
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ays em-
ithout
would
g their
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aftro.
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ufible
yghene
force
path
matter
ibuted
INTRODUCTION. xxv
difiributed on the furface of the globe fhould neceffarily yield to
this influence, and that the portion near the equator fhould become
elevated, while that in the vicinity of the pole fhould become neceffa«
rily more depreffled. According to the calculation made by this phi-
Idopher, the equatorial axis fhould exceed the polar axis by the 57%
art, which correfponds to about four leagues. This hypothefis of
Hosghient may be experimentally illuftrated by caufing a wet bladder
to revolve round an axis, when it will be feen to affume a fpheroidical
figure, flattened at the extremities of the axis on which it revolves.
Newton, who had ‘been led to the difcovery of the principle of uni-
verfal gravitation by meditating profoundly on the laws difcovered by
Kepler relative to the planetary motions, differed from Huyghens in
not confidering gravity as a force conftantly direéted to the centre
of the earth, but refulting from the mutual obo tng of all the par-
ticles of which the earth is compofed to each other, Upon this fup-
pofition he found the force of gravity on the furface would be fubjec
to fome {mall variation, both in direction and intenfity ; that the figure
of the earth would be an oblate fpheroid, compreffed at the poles and
elevated at the equator; but he eftimated the quantity of this com-
preffion at 4,, nearly double that afligned by inch
39. Thefe refults, which agree as to the nature, but differ as to the
uantity of the compreffion of the earth’s figure, admit of a very
fhtisfaéto verification, by means of degrees meafured on difftrent
parts of the terreftrial meridian ; for if this hypothefis be correct, the
degrees fhould be greater in the more compreffed parts; that is, at
the poles, and lefs in the moft elevated or equatorial regions. This
confequence is deduced from principles ftrictly geometrical, and has
never been called in queftion but by thofe who have quite mifconceived
the nature and definition of a degree of meridian. ‘The importance
of the fubject requires that it fhould be entered into with confiderable
slexantes
It is a fa& univerfally acknowledged, and confirmed by experience,
that the direction of gravity, or the vertical, is always perpendicular
to the terreftrial furface, whatever may be its form. We are affured
of this by various rans; by aftronomical obfervation, by levelling,
and by obferving the horizon as bounded by the fea. From this con-
fideration a degree of the meridian may be defined, ¢ the /pace which
it is neceffary to pafs over on this curve, whatever may be its nature, fo
that the two lines AZ, A'Z' (tig. 17): drawn from the extremities af
ee perpendicular to the curve FG (that ts, to its tangents AM,
AM', which mark the horizon to the two points A and A'), may make
eith each other an angle, ACA, equal to one degree.”
This definition being arbitrary cannot be contefted, it only remains
to thew, that aftronomers have conftantly determined the value of a
degree according to this definition ; and this cannot be denied, fince
they always meafure the amplitude of the arc by comparing the zenithe
of the two extremities with the fame ftar, or the verticals drawn through
thefe extremities.
This being admitted, if the curve FG be a circle, the lines C4, C4’,
perpendicular to its tangents, will be radii proceeding from the cen-
tre, and muft always mect at the fame diftance from the curve; and
fince throughout the whole circumference, the fame angle will
always anfwer to the fame arc, the degrees will all be of an equal
length.
: It
INTRODUCTION.
It will be very different for curves in which the curvature is not
uniform... If-two.arcs be taken of the fame length, as J/m’, mm’,
(fig. 18.) the one on the moft convex, the other on the moft compreffed
portion of the fphere, then the perpendiculars A7C and MM’ C, drawn
from the extremities of the firft arc will meet nearer to this arc than the
perpendiculars mc, m'c drawn through the extremities. of the more com-
prefied are mm’. The angle mem’ is therefore evidently lefs than the
angle J4C M’, and confequently if this laft.is. a degree, the arc mm
equal in leagth to 44M’ cannot correfpond to. a degree. To obtain
a degree in the part m P of the curve we muft.neceflarily comprehend
a greater fpace than ALM’.
This manner of conceiving the fubjeét feems fufficiently diftin® to
obviate every difficulty as to the concufion which fhould be drawn
from the inequalities of different degrees; for it cannot be denied that
they muft be greater where the curvature of the meridian is moft
comprefled, and {maller where it is moft convex. About the begine
ning of the laft century a mifconception” prevailed with fome writers,
from not fufficiently attending to thefe confiderations, and the oppofite
confequence was fuppofed to follow from the miftaken opinion that the
degrees were meafured by the angles Mo AZ’ mOm' formed by lines
drawn from the centre of the ellipfe, but this hypothefis was contrary
to the operations by which degrees are meafured, for the lines O 7 and
O M', Omand Om‘ not being perpendicular to the curve, are very
different from thofe verticals to which the celeftial arc is referred.
This error was but of fhort continuance, nor has it ever fince been re-
vived, except by perfons quite incompetent to form any opinion on the
fubject.
ae: The Academy of Sciences employed themfelves very affiduoufly
in devifing methods of verifying the hypothefis of Newton and
Huyghens. Two expeditions cenfifting of fome of its moft learned
members were fent out, one in 1736, to Peru, the other in 1737, to
the polar circle, to meafure an are of thé meridian at each of thefe
places ; the one fituate on the equator, the other as near the pole as
was acceffible. The refult of thefe meafurements did not exaétly
accord with each other and with the intermediate degree meafured in
_ France, yet was fufficient to put the quettion of the flattened figure of
the earth beyond all doubt. The degree meafured on the polar circle
furpaffed the equatorial degree 669 toifes, and that meafured in France,
though lefs than the polar degree, furpafled that of Peru by 307
tbifes.
Thefe differences, far too confiderable to be attributed to error of
obfervation, proved incontettibly that the earth was flattened at the pole,
but to determine the difference of the two axes, it was neceflary to be
acquainted with the nature of the curve which forms the terreftrial mes
ridian. ‘The theoretical invettigation of Newton and his fucceflors
fhewed that this curve might be an ellipfe, but in comparing this theory
with different operations, a great difcordance was found to fubfiit, and
this was fuppofed to arife from a caufe which in fome meafure flrength.
ened the Newtonian theory of gravitation, And this was the irregular
attraction of mountains. Bouquer firft fufpeéted that the plumb line
of his feétor was drawn from its true pofition towards the mountain
Pechintcha in Peru. This effect of local attraétion was afterwards con-
firmed by Dr. Mafkelyne, who inftituted fome very exaét experiments
for this purpofe, in the north of Great Britain, The length of the
pendulum
han the
re CoMe
han the
ire mm
» obtain
prehend
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ed that
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dulum
INTRODUCTION. -XXvil
pendulum vibrating feconds was found to vary, regularly indicating a‘de.
creafe of the force of gravity towards the equator, burt the quantity of
thisvariation did not exaftly accord with the figure of the earth as de-
duced from the meafurement of different degrees. Clairaut and fucceed-
ing’mathematicians have explained in part this difficulty, by fhewing
that the above variations indicated an increafe of denfity towards the
center, in the matter compofing our planet, They have fhewn that if
the figure of the earth be what is termed by mathematicians a figure of
revolution, that is, a figure produced by the revolution of a curve about
a fixed axis, in that cafe, for the fluids on its furface to be in a ftate of
equilibrium, the generating curve fhould be an ellipfe whofe leffer axis
fhould pafs through the poles.
It was in France that the degree of the meridian was firft determined
with precifion, and it was likewife in France that the operation was
brought to an unexpected degree of perfection by the introduction of
the repeating circle of Berda in a form adapted to terreftrial operations,
inftead of being made only for maritime obfervations for which it was
originally intended. Delambre and Mechain «*-:: ‘ntrufted with the
fuperintendence of this great trigonometrical o,:ation, which was to
determine the length of an arc of the meridian extending from Dun-
kirk to Barcelona, The principal object was to determine the length of
the new metre, a ftandard meafure equal to the ten millionth part of
the terreftrial quadrant, and though this arc does not exceed the tenth
part of the quadrant, yet by means of this inftrument they were able
to perceive the inequality of the degrees refulting from the {pheroidical
figure of the earth.
Many irregularities were obferved in this meafurement which are not
very material in queftions purely geographical.
A moft laborious inveftigation of the whole procefs was undertaken
by a committee appointed by the Inftitute, aflifted by feveral learned
foreigners fent for the purpofe by their refpeCtive governments, and their
determination fixed the empomsn or ellipticity of the earth at ,4,,
This refult is the more probable as it agrees with that obtained by the
meafures of the length of the pendulum in different climates, and with
other refults from confiderations entirely aftronomical. The equatorial
regions being thus elevated above the reft are fubje&t to an excefs of
attraction from the celeftial bodies, particularly the fun and moons
and it is from this caufe that a motion of the axis of the earth takes
place, producing the fingular phenomenon known by the name of the
ss ee on of the equinoxes,’® accompanied by a periodical irregularity
led the nutation.
The degree meafured by the academicians at the polar circle indicated
a greater quantity for the ellipticity than any other meafure, and this
circumftance induced a fufpicion that fome confiderable error might
have been committed inthe procefs. ‘To remove this doubt M. Melander
Hielm, a learned Swedifh aftronomer, undertook a new meafurement
of this degree ; he employed the repeating circle, and made ufc of every
precaution which the prefent refined ftate of the fcience could fu gett.
The French academicians only meafured one degree. M. Melander
included an arc of double that magnitude in his operation, by a firft
fketch of the calculation communicated to Delalande, the degree in
latitude 66,20 appears to be 196 toifes lets than the former meafurement
of 1737 and the ellipticity y}-y which does not differ greatly from the
determination given above, mA
ec
Rxviil INTRODUCTION.
_ The planet Jupiter offers a flriking example of the effec of the centri-
fugal force in producing a {pheroidical figure. The difference of the
two diameters of this planet appears by exact meafurement with a
micrometer to he nearly 45 of the whole, and if by analogy we compute
the compreffion of the poles of the earth, by comparing the time of its
rotation with that of Jupiter, we find the ellipticity or compreffion to
be about 3 or 4, which is nearly the fame as that found by other
methods. Many other phenomena, the inveftigation of whichis foreign
to the plan of this treatife, indicate a fimilar Sempiee oe 3; fo that we
may confider this compreffion as a fact no longer difputed, being verified
both by experiment and analogy. See Mechanique Celefte, tom. II.
& III.
41. The principal dimenfions of the earth from the late meafurement
are as follows :
The arc of the meridian between Di. kirk and Montjou contains 9°
of the wholecircle ; its length is equal to 275,792 modules, the module
being a rod of platina equal to 199,862 toifcs. ‘The toife employed in
this comparifon was that which ferved for the meafure of the degree in
Peru, reduced to the length it fhould have at the mean temperature
which prevailed during that operation, and the module taken at the
mean temperature of the operation executed in France. The mean of
the meafured arc correfponded to latitude 46° 11’ 5". Hence it was
computed that :
The quadrant of the terreftrial meridian is equalto 513,074 toiles,
The whole circumference is equal to 2,052,296
which amounts to 7,193 leagues of 2853 toifes each*,
Thefe new meafures, determined with fuch great exactnefs, differ but
feven leagues in the whole circumference from the meafurement of
Picard, from which we may judge of the very {mall degree of uncer-
tainty that at prefent remains on this fubjedt.
The metre or the ten millionth part of the quadrant appears from
the preceding determinations to be equal to 513,074 toiles, 443,296
lines.
With this flandard as unity larger meafures are taken by decuple
progreffion, and {maller ones by decimal fubdivifion; a method ex-
tremely well adapted to geographical computations, as will be feen in
the following pages.
The terreftrial radii not being equal to each other cannot be com-
puted as in the circle; formule mutt be inveftigated to exprefs the
relation of the arcs of an ellipfe with the axis of this curve, and it has
been found that if the compreffion is taken at 35 the fame axis EO
fig.18.) or the equatorial radius, contains 2,273,279 toifes, and the
emi axis O P, or the polar radius, is equal to 3,263,050, the difference
being equal to 10,229.
Particular formule gre likewife neceflary for computing the value of
the meridional degrees for every latitude; thefe are obtained by findin
the point of interfection of the’ perpendiculars or Normals with nth
other Thefe and all other requifite formule for calculating the po-
sitions of different points on the terreftrial {pheroid may be Bund in a
publication by Delambre, entitled, ‘* Methodes Analytiques pour la
* If a rerrefent the polar radius of the earth, and 4 the equatorial radiuss then,
- @ SS 3227126 toifes 6 = 3261432 toifes, y
= 6375737 metres. 6356649 metres.
= 20918230 English feet. 90855929 English feet. —§ - T.
Determi-
— <—-& = & © &Y so mem Mm ot eh Bh OPO ore
he centri«
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tom. II.
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perature
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INTRODUCTION. xxix
Determination d’un Arc du Méridien ;’? to which intelligent work the
reader who wifhes for further information is particularly referred. I
fhall only mention the value of the degree in 45°, as that is nearly the
mean between that of the pole and that at the equator. It is 56,960
toises. This ellipticity of the earth, viz. ,4;, producing in the two
diameters a difference of only feven leagues, would only give a difference
of 1! line in a {pheroid of three feet diameter ; no attention need be
given to this fmall quantity in the conftru€tion of our terrettrial globes,
this difference being too inconfiderable to deferve notice relative to the
whole fphere. Becaufe ftill lefs important in the details of geography,
and may be entirely neglected in the conftruétion of geographical
charts, I fhall therefore throughout this introduction, confider the
earth a perfeé&t fphere. The quadrant being divided into go equal
parts, the mean degree will be 57,000 toifes, and the marine league
2850 toifes.
Thefe obfervations apply ftill more forcibly to the fmallnefs of the
terreftrial mountains, compared to the diameter of the earth. ‘The
higheft known mountain not exceeding 3000 toifes in its perpendicular
elevation, or a little more than a marine league, and the diameter
of the earth containing 2292 of thefe, a mountain of this height
would only have one line of elevation if reprefented on a globe of 30
feet diameter.
SECT. II.
Construction and use of different representations of the
earth and different parts of the earth.
43. The moft accurate method of reprefenting the furface of the
earth is certainly by means of a terreftrial globe, and indeed it is the
only one in which the relative pofition and magnitude of different
regions can be given in a fimple form.
he moft fimple and cxact method of conftructing them is to deli-
neate on the dustnes (according to directions hereafter to be given) the
various countries intended to be reprefented.
Let two points be taken diametrically oppofite to each other, to ree
prefent the poles, through thefe the axis of rotation must neceflarily
pafs. With one of thefe points as a centre, and at an equal diftance
from each, let a circle be defcribed which will reprefent the equator.
Any great circle paffing through the poles, may be taken’as the firft
meridian, and of which each quadrant beginning from the equator mutt
be divided into 90°. The equator, likewife, reckoning from the meri-
dian, mutt be divided into 360°. This being done, it will be extremely
eafy to affign the true pofition on the globe, of any place whofe lati.
inde and longitude are known. All that is requifite is to mark the
Jatitude with a point on the firft meridian, and through this point with
the pole as a centre, defcribe a circle which will be a parallel to the
equator paffing through the place, then a great circle 1s to be drawn
through the poles and through the point of the equator correfponding
to the longitude, and the interfection of thefe two circles will be the
pofition of the place, ~
. The latitude of a place being reckoned from the equator, its
rigin is determined by circumftances depending on the rotatory motion
of the earth, but it is otherwife with the longitude of a place being
reckoned from a meridian, and there being no decifive reafon for pre-
ferring one meridian to another, geographers in their choice of this have
differed much from each other,
Ptolemy,
INTRODUCTION.
Ptolemy, who has tranfmitted to us the moft ancient geographical
chart upon record, reckons from the meridian of the Fortunate or
Canary Ifles, from their being fituated at the weftward extremity of
that portion of the world which was known in his time. And this por-
tion extending farther in the eaft and weit direction than from north to
fouth, the firft meafure was called longitude or length, the other latitude
or breath, names ftill retained to this day.
That all longitudes might be reckoned in a uniform manner,
Louis XIII. ordered that the firft meridian fhould be placed on the
ifland of Ferro, the moft weftward of the Canaries ; and Delifle, who
firit introduced a confiderable precifion into our maps, fixed the longi-
tude of Paris 20° to the eaftward of this meridian. More recent obfer-
vations have determined the difference of longitude between Paris and
the principal town of the ifle of Ferro to be 20° 5’ 50", fo that it be-
came neceffary to advance the firft meridian 5’ 20” to the eaft, hence it
is now merely an arbitrary circle, not pafling through any remarkable
place on the earth. E
The Dutch reckoned their firft meridian from the peak of Teneriffe,
a mountain fituated in an ifland of that name, formerly fuppofed to be
the higheft in the world,
Geographers reckon their longitudes eaftward of the firft meridian :
they have made choice of continuing round the entire circle; thus a
place one degree to the weitward has evidently, according to this method,
359° of longitude.
‘Thefe methods have undergone confiderable alterations, efpecially by
mariners, fince aftronomical obfervations have become generally adopted
in the {cience of navigation, for fince the time at which any celettial
henomenon happens, and from which the pofitien of a place is calcu-
ated, is always given in the tables for the principal obfervatory of the
country for which they are conftructed, it has been found much more
commodious to refer the difference of longitude to the exaé point for
which thefe tables are made. For this reafon French mariners reckon
their longitude from Paris, and the Englith from Greenwich. More-
over, when the longitude of a place is deduced from the difference of
time which elapfes between the paffage of the fame ftar over the meri-
dian, or by the difference of time as reckoned at each place, the dif.
ference of longitude may be confidered in two diiferent ways; for in tra-
velling towdds the eait, the computed time is greater than at the point
of departure, and this may amount to 24 hours in making a circuit of
the whole globle in an eaftward direction ; the contrary happens in tra-
velling weitward; it therefore becomes neceffary, in announcing the
difference Of time, to ftate whether it arifes from a change of fituation
towards the eaft or weft. And it is the cuftom in making marine
charts, to reckon the longitude from the neareft diftance from the firft
meridian, fo that the longitude fhall never exceed the demi-circumfe-
rence or 180°, ‘The globe being thus divided into two hemifpheres re-
latively to the firit meridian, thofe places on the eaftward half are faid
to have eaft longitude and thofe in the other weft longitude.
45- Hence we fee the neceflity of being able to reduce the longitude
referred to one meridian after the manner of geographers, to thofe
reckoned from fome other according to the method efed by navigators,
For inftance, in the cafe of Sageaues reckoned geographically, by
making the whole circuit of the globe in an eaftward diredtion, if we
with to compare two meridians, the difference of longitude mutt be
taken; and if the meridian from’which the new longitudes are to be
reckoned
=— o st se he ww lUllUlU Cele
e~nswrwm Fmitinw?i:t «=m
graphical
unate or
remity of
this por-
north to
‘latitude
manner,
1 on the
fle, who
ne longi-
nt obfer-
aris and
at it be-
hence it
narkable
eneriffe,
d to be
eridian 3
thus a
method,
sially by
adopted
celeftial
is calcu-
of the
h more
oint for
reckon
More-
ence of
1e meri~
the dif.
rin trae
€ point
cuit of
in trae
ng the
tuation
marine
he firft
umfe-
res re-
re faid
itude
NF ehofe
pators.
ly, by
if we
ult be
to be
koned
“XS.
INTRODUCTION. Se ye x
7 wt
yeckoned is weit of the other, this difference is to be added to’ thefe ~
longitudes, and on the contrary is to be~fubtracted, if fituated to the -
eaftward. :
For example, the peak of Teneriffe being fituated one degree to the
eaftward of the ifle of Ferro, all the longitudes reckoned according to
the Dutch manner from this mountain, being aug mented one degree,
will: give the longitudes reckoned from the ifle of Ferro; it would be .
neceflary on the other hand to fubtraé& one degree from thefe latter
longitudes to obtain the former. a on
But when they are reckoned from the fame meridian, all the longi«
tudes ealtward as far as 180° are the fame in both methods, but the lon-
gitudes weftward mutt be fubtracted from 360° to reduce them to geoe
graphical longitudes; and reciprocally, we may reduce a longitude
which furpafles 180° to a welt longitude, by fubtracting it from 360°,
as in the following example : ;
Carthegena in America, according to the tables, is fituate in longi-
tude 281° 57’ from meridian of Paris; taken from 360, the difference
78° 3 is the longitude ; this being 17’ beyond the oppofite point, we
have 179° 43’ for its longitude, ealt of the meridian of Paris.
46. The points which are firft placed on the globe. are thofe whofe
longitudes and latitudes have been accurately determined ; they are
ufually the capital cities of different kingdoms, celebrated maritime
ports, and the points which ferve as boundaries to fome of the moft -
remarkable finuofities of the oceans; the intermediate {paces are filled
up from drawings geometrically conftruc&ted on a plane elace, or from
the defcription of travellers ; to this is added the boundaries of different
ftates and the courfe of the principal rivers,
47. By means of a globe we may with great facility determine the
diftance of two places from each other, and meafure the extent of dif-,
ferent countries, The fhorteft diftance of two points on a {phere is
meafured on an are of a great circle paffing through them, and as all
great circles are equal, the degrees of any great circle are of equal value
with thofe of the meridian; the arc required may be therefore eafily
meafured by applying it by means of a pair of compaffes either to the
meridian or equator, which are ufually graduated. If, for example,
the arc contained between two places and referred to the meridian con-
tains 29° 45, the fhorteft diftance between thefe points will be obtained
by converting thefe degrees and minutes into nautical leagues of 20 toa
degree ; the 29° will equal 580 leagues, and each minute being equiva-
lent to one third of a league or nautical mile, the-45/ will equal 15 leagues,
and the total refult will be 595 marine leagues,
For the preceding operation may be fubftituted a more exaét calcu-
lation. For this purpofe we mutt folve the {pherical triangle APL,
(fig.8.) formed by the meridians 4P PZ pafling through the points
4 aud ZL whofe diftance is required, and by the arc AL which joins
them in-this triangle ; the fides AP, PL are known; for they are the
co-latitudes or diftances of Aand Z from the pole P, and the angle
PL is their difference of longitude ; by the rules of {pherical trigonos
metry the arc ZL. will be found in degrees and minutes, which may be
converted into linear meafure as above. If 4 and Z are fituated in
different hemifpheres, one of the polar diftances will be greater than go?
by the latitude of one, the points of Carthagena weftward of Paris, as
it is ufually given in marine charts,
The
| q
_
i Bi
i ti
{ Aig
4 By cy
if
j |
| ‘
j
A RRA
eS nit sa ae i AH AI cna iii u
a
E2xii INTRODUCTION.
The bay of Otallipiha, in the ifland of Otaheite, has been determined
by navigators to be in longitude 151° 55’ 45” weft of the meridian of
Paris ; the geographical longitude is found as follows :
360 ©O 00
T5t 55 45
The difference 208 15 is the longitude required.
When longitudes are reckoned 7 ee two different meridians, and
diftinguifhed into eaft and weft, it becomes neceffary to ‘notice on
which fide the meridian is fituated to which the required longitudes are
to be referred, then the difference of longitude of all the longitudes of
the fame denomination with this fide arc to be fubtraéted, se thofe of
a contrary denomination added,
Example.—The meridian of the obfervatory of Paris being 2° 20/ eaft
of that of Greenwich, all the longitudes eaftward of Greenwich muft
be diminifhed to be reduced to the meridian of Paris, and thofe longi-
tudes which are weft mult be augmented by that quantity, Thus the
longitude of the Cape of Good Hope being 18° 23’ 15” eaft of the me-
ridian of Greenwich becomes 16° 3/15" eaft of Paris. On the contrar
the bay of Otallipiha, placed by Englifh navigators 149° 35’ 45” ci |
of the meridian of Greenwich, becomes 151° 55’ 45” when referred to
that of Paris. ’ :
There is a cafe which fometimes gives rife to a little difficulty, that
is, when the place to be reduced lies between the two meridians or
their oppofites, the place being thus eaft with refpect to the one and
weft with refpe& to the other: for inftance, in the firft cafes the dif-
ference of the meridians mult not be fubtraéted from the longitude to
be reduced, but the contrary which changes the denomination.
In the other cafe the number which refults from the addition of the
difference of longitude to the longitude reckoned from the meridian
intended to be changed exceeding 180°, will be beyond the oppofite
meridian of the place to which it is referred, it muft therefore be taken
from 360, and confequently its denomination changed.
Example. Dover being 1. 18. 30. eaft of Greenwich, this fubtraction
muft be mado:
2°. 20!
x? 18’ 30”
The difference 1° 1' 30” is the longitude of Dover weft: of the
meridian of Paris.
Turtle [fland, in the Pacific ocean, is placed by the Englith in
277° 57’ welt longitude ; this, added to 2° 20! equals, 180° 17’.
When the places whofe diflance is required are fituated on the fame:
meridian, nothing is more requifite than to convert their difference cf
latitude into linear meafure. The latitude of a place is found on a
globe by meafuring the fhorteft diftance of the place from the equator,
or from a known parallel of latitude, and referring it to the graduated
meridian, the number of degrees intercepted on this arc is that which
muft be added or fubtraéted from the latitude of this parallel, to obtain
the latitude of the place propofed, '
48. But the difference of longitude of two points fituated on the fame
parallel are by no means the meafure of their diftancey except when
they are on the equator itfelf; for thefe parallels being leffer circles,
whofe radii diminifh as they approach the poles, their degrees have 8%
c
ermined
‘idian of
‘ired.
ans, and
tice on
udes are
tudes of
thofe of
20! eaft
ch muft
fe longi-
“hus the
the me-
conan
45" we
ferred to
ty, that
idians or
one and
, the dif-
‘itude to
n of the
meridian
oppofite
Be taken
traction
of the
rlifh in
he fame -
ence of
ad on @
qguators
duated
which,
obtain
e fame
when
ircles,
ve not
the
INTRODUCTION. RXxiil
the fame value as thofe of a great circle. Anda remark which is fome-
tizaes omitted fhould be made, that the abfolute length of thefe arcs is
got the fhorteft diftance between their extreme points, through which
a great citcle muft always be conceived to pafs; for the radius of the
parallel being fhorter than that of the great circle, its arc is more con-
vex, and its curvature greater than that of a great circle pafling through
its extremities, and confequently it is longer.
In following conftantly the fame alinement, it is impoffible to describe
any other thana great circle of a fphere, becaufe the fhortedt line in this
gale is taken from one point to another,
Notwithftanding the degrees are different on different parallels, yet
the abfolute length of the degree on any given parallel is eafily con-
cluded from the known value of the meridional degree ; for the angie
of thefe circles are proportional to their radii, and the radii of the
equator and its parallels are perpendiculars let fall from the different
points of the meridian upon the diameter of the circle as reprefented
im (fig.8.) by the lines 2C, HAs therefore, if the radius ZC be taken
as the meafure of a degree on the equator, andit be divided into twenty
parts, or marine leagues, the number of parts which the radius HK
contains will be the value of the degree of the parallel Z AZ.
Hence it follows, that to determine the length of the degree for cach
parallel, it will be fufficient to defcribe a quarter of a circle round
upon a line LC, taken to reprefent the equatorial degree, to divide
this quadrant into degrees, and to draw perpendiculars from ech point
of divifion to the radius CP, thefe lines will be refpe€tive lengths o£
the degrees at the points to which they correfpond, or to every deg:
of latitude.
The line HX being the fine of the are PH, and the cofine oi the
are ZH, of which one meafures the diftance of the paral’.: 7/7 from
the pole, and the other the latitude of the parallel, it is evident that,
taking for unity the degree at the equator, the degree of any parallel
whatever will be the cofine of the latitude as given by the trigonometri-
cal tables.
The latitude of Paris being 48° 50’, and the cofine of this angle
0.684 of the radius, the degree of longitude is found by multiplying
this number by 20 marine leagues, which will give 13.16 leagues, which
is fpace that mutt be taken on this parallel, to produce a change of one
degree of longitude. At 60° of latitude the degree of longitude
is only 10 leagues, becaufe the cofine of Go° is equal to the radius,
49. The meridian being a great circle, it will be defcribed on the
earth by following the direction of a meridian line traced in any place
whatever, and every 20 leagues defcribed o> this line will produce a
change of one degree of latitude; but a parailel to the equator will
not be defcribed by following a direction perpendicular to the meridian
on the eaft and weft hne; for this alineent would determine a plane
perpendicular to the meridian, and which continually deviates from the
parallel as it recedes from their common origin: this is fhewn in fig. 19,
where P£P reprefents a meridian, £G-/ the equator, HLK a parallel,
and H/K the great circle perpendicular to the meridian at H. It ma
be obferved likewife, that a)! the great circles perpendicular to the fame
meridian ‘meet in two oppofite points J /', which are the poles of this
meridian ; thefe great circles, therefore, continually approach to each
other, and it is only in a very {mall {pace on each fide the meridian
PEP, that thefe circles EJ’, JHJ' can be confidered as parallel, and
for the fame reafon it is only in a very {mall {pace that the eait and weft
d lines,
xxiv INTRODUCTION.
lines, or perpendiculars to the-meridian, can be confidered as a parallel
to each other.
The great circle JX, perpendicular to the meridian PEP, cuts the
other meridian P’ LP in angles which are different for each ; but the
rallel HZQ cuts them all at right angles. Hence, in proceeding
is the point H to the point Z on the parallel, it is neestiiey to de-
flect at every inftant from the firft direction, to keep at right angles to
the different meridians which are fucceffively paffed over, and which all
tend to the pole P. It is only, therefore, by the affiftance of a com-
pafs, or by fome fimilar but more exaét method of determining the po-
fition of the meridian, that we can, by continuauy advancing in a direc-
tion due eaft or weft, maintain always the fame diftance from the
equator, and proceed upon the fame parallel.
And in general when, by means of a compafs, we follow a direc-
tion which,cuts all the meridians at the fame angle, that is, when we
keep on the fame rumb, the alinement is changed at every point, to
Sreleeve a conftant angle with the new meridian which converges with
the preceding ; hence a fort of fpiral line is defcribed, called a
loxodrome, and of which a more particular account will be given
in the method of conftructing charts for the purpofes of navigation.
50. To meafure commodioufly the extent of any region traced upon
the globe, we thay conceive ‘its furface divided into quadrilateral
figures by meridians, and their parallels drawn either to every 10° or 5°,
that is, generally into portions fufficiently {mall that any fevigrtay
{pace may be compared without difficulty with the quadrilateral figure
which contains it. The fuperficial extent of each quadrilateral, con-
tained by two meridians and two parallels, is found by firft determining
that of the entire zone contained by the two parallels, and this will be
to the area of the whole {phere as the diftance of the parallels which
terminate it is to the diameter ; which diftance correfponds on the diae
meter to the difference of the fines-of the latitudes of sae parailel, as
appears in fig. 8, where the line CX reprefents the difference between
CP and KP.
For example. For the zone contained by the parallels 48? and 49%
and in which Paris and its environs is fituated,
The fine of 49° = 0,755
48 = (95743
Difference 0,012
its half, 0,006, indicates that this zdne contains 2.5, or rf, of the
total furface of the globe, and this being eftimated at 16,501,200
fquare leagues, the above zone may be eftimated at 99,007 fquare
leagues.
As to the magnitude of this zone contained between two given meri-
dians, it evidently bears the fame proportion to the whole quantity as
the difference of longitude to the hale circumference ; the extenty
therefore, of a quadrilateral contained by one degree in the longi-
tude of Paris, is the 360th part of 99,007, or about 375 fquare
ie a
fimilar calculation being made for a ee a containing one
degree of longitude for every degree of latitude from the equator
to the pole, will give a table of refults, by means of which the exe
tent of any rv ‘on may eafily be computed, either on a globe or map.
gt. ‘Uo pla. a globe conveniently, and that it may Sve for many
wseful purposes, ite axis is usually fixed in a diameter to a graduated
circle
: parallel
cuts the
but the
oceeding
ry to de-
angles to
which all
yf a come
g the po-
na direc-
from the
ya direc-
when we
point, to
rges with
called a
be given
avigation.
iced upon
adrilateral
10° or 5°,
irregular
eral figure
teral, con-
etermining
his will be
lels which
bn the dia
barailel, as
e between
7 and 49%
4, of the
6,501,200
bo7 {quare
riven meri-
mantity as
e extent,
the longi-
7§ {quare
aining one
e equator
h the exe
or map.
for many
graduated
circle
INTRODUCTION. XLKV
cirele of brafs, and which reprefents the plane of any celeftial meridian
whatever; this circle paffes through another fixed to the fupport of
the globe, called the horizon, becaufe the axis of the globe admitting
of every poffible inclination with refpe& to this circle, it may be thus
made to reprefent univerfally the horizon of any given place. The
poles may thus be fet at any elevation above the horizon, and the globe
turned on its axis independently of the meridian, which always remains
fixed ; the axis of the globe carries an index, which is adapted to a dial
divided into 24 parts or hours, and to the whole is fometimes added a
compafs, to place it in the direction of the meridian.
To facilitate the meafuring of the diftance of one point from another,
a thin moveable are is added, called a quadrant of altitude, and which
may eafily be applied in any dire@tion, and being the arc of a great
circle, it meafures, on its graduated limb, the fhorteft diftance between
any two points to which it is applied. When the upper point is fixed in
the zenith, the lower coincides with the horizon, and it then marks the
diftancé from the horizon of every point through which it paffes,
or the altitude of any ftar that may be at the time vertical to that
oint, ;
52. The following are the moft ufeful problems that may be folved
by thefe inftruments : aoe
t. The latitude of any place is found by bringing it under the
brazen meridian, whofe graduated edge will indicate the diftance from
the equator.
2. The longitude of a place is found by-obferving the point on the
equator interfeéted by the meridian which paffes through it.
3. And reciprocally the pofition of a place is found, when its latitude
and longitude is given by bringing the point of the equator correfpond-
ing to the longitude under the meridian, where the given latitude will
indicate the required place.
4. The hour reckoned in one place, at the moment of noon at any
other, is found by bringing the latter under the meridian, and placing
the index of the dial at 12; then turning the globe till the other place
is brought under the meridian, the index of the dial will mark the time
sequined the time will be afternoon, if the globe be turned towards
the eaft ; and before noon, if turned towards the weft,
53. The length of the longeft day for every place in cither hemif.
phere (for inftance the northern) is Yount by eletation the meridian in
fuch a manner that the arctic circle may juft become a tangent to the
horizon, the horizon will then reprefent the circle of illumination 3 then,
if the place required be brought to the meridian, and the hour index
— at 12, the globe being turned round till the place comes to the
lorizon, the index will mark the time at which the point paffes from
the enlightened into the obfcure hemifphere, or the time of funfet: the
number of hours will be half the length of the day required,
By placing the pole nearer to the horizon, this circle takes the po-
fition of the circle of illumination: for periods precedfng the folftices,
and the length of the days for their refpeQtive periods, will be indicated
as before,
It may be farther remarked, that, in this pofition of the globe, all
the pointe which ave fituated at_the fame time on the weftward part of
the orien are thofe which, pafling at once from the obfcure into the
enlightened hemifphere, fee the {un rife at the fame inftant of time
and it paffes the meridian to all thofe places fituated on the meridian.
‘The cardinal points, with their fubdivifions, are ufually placed on
d2 globes,
XEXVI ; INTRODUCTION.
\
globes, and the pofition of any place with refpec to the fun at the
moment of its rifing or fetting, by obferving at what pcint of the hori-
zon the place propofed pafles from the obfcure to the enlightened
hemifphere, and vice versd : the oppofite indications will thew the fitu-
ation of the fun relative to the meridian of the place propofed.
This is not, however, the moit ufual way of folving thefe problems
on the globe; it is moft ufual to reprefent each particular cafe f{eparately ;
but this method feems to me preferable, becaufe it is more general, and
becaufe it offers a phyfical reprefentation of what has been faid (No.15.).
It will be fuflicient to place a globe in obfcurity, and to illuminate one
hemifphere by a ftrong light placed at a confiderable diftance, and the
phenomena will be rendered apparent which the fun preduces during a
revolution of the earth relatively to the different pofitions which its axis
takes with refpect to the fun.
And generally, the declination of a ftar being known, if the pole
of the fame denomination be elevated above the horizon by a quantity
equal to that declination, this circle will then divide the heavens into
two parts, to one of which the ftar is vifible, while invifible to the
other. The above method, therefore, may be employed to determine
the places to which a ftar given in pofition is vifible at any given
initant.
54. The diitance between any two points on the globe is meafuredé
by bringing one of them tothe meridian, and placing the center on
which the quadrant of altitude turns direétly over it ; then turning the
uadrant of altitude reund till it paffes through the other point, and the
dearest intercepted on the are will be the diftance required.
If the direétion or azimuth which one point makes with the other be
required, one of them muft be brought into the zenith or pole of the
horizon; that is, the globe mutt be rectified for that point, or the pole
elevated to the latitude of the place ; the horizon of the globe will then
po gic the horizon of the place: this being done, and the quadrant
of altitude adjufted in the manner above defcribed, the number of de-
grees intercepted on the horizon by the quadrant of altitude, and the
north or fouth point of the horizon, is the azimuth required, which is
the angle which a great circle paffing through the given points makes
with the meridian.
55+ The problem (53) might be folved for any particular plage, by
fubftituting the rational horizon for the circle of illumination, For
this purpofe the globe muft he rectified for the latitude of the place,
which muft be brought to the meridian, and the hour index fet to 12.3
then the point muft be marked which is directly under the degree of
‘the meridian correfponding to the declination of the fun; this point is
then to be brought to the horizon, and the number of hours marked
on the dial will thew the time between noon and funfet ; for it is evi
dent that a point at a certain diflance from the equator will defcribe a
circle which will reprefent the fun’s path at the time it has a fimilur
declination.
And by the fame method may be found the time which elapfes be-
tween the rifing of any ttar and its meridian paflage, by comparing it
with a point whofe diftance from the equator is equal to the declination
of the ftar,
6. The difficulty of executing globes large enough to fhew the de-
tails of geography, and the embarraflment occafioned by their ufe,
have taught the neceflity of reprefenting on a plane furface the re-
{pective fituation of different objets on the globe of the earth,
' Curved
at the
he hori-
ghtened
the fitu-
1.
yroblems
sarately 5
ral, and
No.15.).
late one
and the
during a
its axis
the pole
quantity
ens into
e to the
etermine
ly given
neafured
enter on
ning the
and the
other be
e of the
the pole
vill then
quadrant
r of de-
and the
which is
8s makes
lage, by
bn. For
ie place,
to 12.3
gree of
point is
b marked
ht is evi
efcribe a
a fimilur
pfes be-
baring it
clination
the des
reir ule,
the re-
Curved
INTRODUCTION.
XXXvii
Curved furfaces, as compared to plane, are divided into two claffes ;
fome, like thofe of cones and cylinders, being capable of extenfion on
a plane, without rent or told, whence they are called developable fur.
_ faces; while others, like thofe of a fphere and ipheroids, are quite
incapable of this extenfion. If the earth had been comprifed in the
firft clafs, a fimple developement, of ealy execution, would have pre-
feated maps, in which the diauces of the piaces, aud the refpeétive
extent of the cossiries would have been preferved, fuch as they are
in nature; but wnhappily the earth is a fpheroid, and its furface can
never exactly coincide with a plane: whence ariles the impoflibility of
preferving at the fame time, on a map, the natural relations between
the extent of the countries, the diftances of places, and the Rriét re-
femblance of configuration. We are therefore obliged to have recourfe
to different conftructions, in order to reprefent, at leaft in an ap-
proximate manner, cach of thefe relations,
' Thefe conftru&tions have been called proje@ions a vame applied in
general to drawings, of which the object 1s to reprefent, on a plane
iurface, ‘the dimenlions of {pace and bodies. They are of two forts,
fome being perfpective reprefentations of the globe, or parts of its
furface taken from different points of view, and upon different planes
confidered as piétures; while the others are only kinds of develope-
ments, fubjeét to the laws of approximation, and contined to the re-
lations which are intended to be preferved. To this latter kind belong
the large map of France, and the fea charts ia daily ufe.
Lambert, and after him Euler and Lagrange, have reduced the
theory of thefe two kinds of projections to the general principle of the
transformation of circular co-ordinates*, affumed from the fphere,
namely, meridiars and parallels, into other ftraight or curved lines
traced on a plane, and depending upon conditions relative to the defired
qualities of the map.
57. The choice of the point of view, and ef the plane of the picture
being made the projection, may be conilruéted for each particular ob-
je&, according to the rules of common perfpective, here reduced to des
termine on the picture the point from which the vifual ray fhall reach
the obje& ; but the number of operations which mutt be made, if each
oint of the country meant to be repreleated were confidered feparately,
Seine too coufiderable, it is thought fuflicient to conflruct the lines
which are the perfpeétives of the meridians and parallels, and which, by
their junétions, determine all the geographical pofitions,
Setting afide the oblate form of our globe, and confidering it as a
{pherical, it may be perceived that the whole of the vifual rays, ex-
tended to all the points of any circle formed on the globe, conftitute a
cone, of which the fection, in the plane of the piéture, can only be
one of the curves of the fecond degree, and even in fome cafes a ftratght
line, It would appear that the firlt decifions, in the choice of the
point of view, were diétated by the confideration of the confequent
facility in the conftruétion of the map; and that, from the time of
Ptolemy, it had been obferved that in making the plane or picture pafs
hy the centre of the fphere, and placing the point of view at the ex-
tremity of the radius, drawn perpendicularly on that plane, all thefe
circles of the globe were reprefented by other circles, of which the con-
itruction was eafy, and which interfected each other in the map, under
the fame angles as upon the fphere, fo that the {pherical rectangular
® Things arranged and dependent on the fame order.
d 3 quadri- 7
xxxviii INTRODUCTION.
quadrilaterals, comprehended between the meridians and the parallels,
were reprefented by curvilinear quadrilaterals, alfo reangular*. It
has fince been proved that the infinitely {mall portions of the globe
affume in this projeGtion their natural figure, but it muft be obferved,
that this fimilitude only takes place in very {mall fpaces. Such are the
conventions which have given rife to the fereographic projedion, and fuch
are its principal propertiest.
It is more commonly employed to reprefent an entire hemifphere ; and
when two are joined they conftitute a map of the world When thofe
are chofen which are circumfcribed by the firft meridian, the picture is
in: this cafe the plane of the meridian, and the eye is placed in the pole
of that circle. It is fufficient to fee a map of this kind to comprehend
that the quadrilaterals, comprifed between two confecutive meridians
and parallels, augment in extent in proceeding from the centre to the
circumference, and that ina very confiderable degree. It'is perceived,
befides, that this enlargement refults. from the obliquity of the vifual
rays, when they depart from that which is perpendicular to the picture,
and which may be called the optical axis. Hence it follows that the
parts towards the borders of the hemifphere have a far more confiderable
éxtent than thofe towards the centre; and that miftakes will arife if
they be referred to the latter t.
Maps of the world have the further inconvenience of feparating the
adjacent parts of the globe, and of only offering in an exaét manner the
svlnetive fituation and the configuration of the countries towards the
middle of the map. This defect is remedied in Polar and Horizontal
Projedions ; the firft, reprefenting the hemifpheres feparated by the
equator, difplay with fufficient exa@tnefs the regions around the poles ;
while the fecond prefent the hemifpheres above and below the horizon
of the place to which they refer, and are the moft proper for the
knowledge of the furrounding regions, or their antipodes, whence they
merit particular attention.
“58, I thall therefore give the demonftration of the fundamental pro-
perties of thefe projeGtions, whence I fhall deduce the procefs of their
conftrudtion, The eye being fuppofed at 0, fig. 20, the plane ADBE,
drawn through the centre C’ of the {phere, perpendicular to the radius
OC, is the plane of projeétion. Any circle GZH, traced upon the
furface of the {phere, determines the cone OG/H, of which the inter-
fe&tion gih, with the plane ADBE, is the projeCtion of the propofed
circle. Now the plane 4/80, drawn by the line OF, and by the
centre K of the circle G/H, cutting at right angles the planes G/H
and ADBE, prefents the means of knowing the angles which thefe
planes make with the fides of the cone OG and O//; and it will be
een that the angle OGH, of which the fummit is at the circumference,
having for meafure the half of the arc OBA, is equal to the angle
Obg, which, being placed between the centre and the circumference,
has for its meafure the half of the fum of the arcs HB and 40;
befides, the angle 0 being common to the two triangles OGH and
Og 4, it follows that the angles OHG, Ogh are equal, whence the
‘cone OG/H is cut in an antiparallel direction by the plane ADBE,
- whence the fection gid isa circle. é ie,
© Prolomai Planifpherium, etc. Aldus Venetiis, 1558.
+ ‘The word is derived from the Greek, meaning the art of drawing the form of
folids on a plane. ,
$ Some geographers begin with the corners, and work towards the centre.
This
arallels,
r*, Tt
e globe
bferved,
are the
nd fuch
re; and
-n thofe
cture is
he pole
srehend
eridians
to the
rceived,
e vifual
picture,
hat the
derable
arife if
ing the
ner the
rds the
izontal
by the
poles ;
Lorizon
or the
ce they
al pro-
f their
DBE,
radius
bn the
inter.
opofed
Dy the
GIA
thefe
vill be
rence,
angle
rence,
40;
H and
e the
DBE,
‘orm of
Thie
INTRODUCTION. XXXIX
This laft, which is the projection of the circle GJH, will be dee
termined when we know its fize, and the pofition of its diameter, and
to obtain them it is fufficient to conftruét in the plane 4OBF the
triangle GOH, in accord with which the plane meets the cone
OGTH, the line 4B, which then reprefents the plane of projeCtion, inter-
feGting the triangle OGH, in the diameter g 4 of the projection required,
59- This being eftablifhed, in order to conftru& a map of the world
on the plane of the firft meridian, the point of view being placed in the
centre of the hemifphere, oppofite to that which is to be reprefented,
will be at the interfection of the equator and meridian, which divides
this laft hemifphere into two equal parts. Firft is confidered the fec-
tion of the globe made by the plane of the equator ADBE, fig. 21.
The line 4B, the common fection of that plane and of the piGture on
the projection, reprefents the equator; the points M7 and N mark two
points of the divifion made on this circle by the meridians ; the eye is
then at D, and the vifual rays 17D and ND, drawn to the points of
divifion M and N, give upon 42, at m and n, the perfpedtives or pro-
jections of thefe points; the three equal arcs 4/17, MN, NE are then
reprefented by the parts m, mn, nC, vilibly unequal.
In drawing through the point 4’ diametrically oppofite to the point
MM, a vitual ray M'D, we fhall finith the angle 7DM', formed by the
two oppofite fides of the cone, pafling by the circumference which
comprehends the meridian drawn to the point JZ, and its oppofite, and
prolonging the ftraight lines 4B and M'D till they meet at m’, the
interval mm! will be the diameter of the proje€tion of the meridian
pafling through the point J.
If it be now coneeived that the circle 4DBE turns around the
diameter 4B, it may be brought on the plane of the firft meridian.
The line DE will then become the axis, the points £ and D will be
the poles, and the lines MD, AM/'D, not having changed their fituation
with regard to 4B, if there be defcribed on mm’, as diameter, an arc
of acircle Em D, it will be the projection of a meridian diftant from
the former by an arc equal to 4M,
To conftru& the projections of the parallels to the equator, we mutt
confider the feétion of the globe made by the plane of the meridian
paffing through the fight, and perpendicular to the firft meridian,
“We may fill ufe fig. 21, and conceive that the plane of the firft
meridian ADBE has turned around the axis of the poles DZ, to
affume a fituation perpendicular to its firft. The point 2B will then
be the fpot occupied by the eye, the axis ZD will be the projeétion,
of the middle meridian, the points M, N, taken on this meridian, will
belong to the parallels, whofe latitudes are 41, AN; in fine, the
vifual rays BA, BN, will give at r and s the projedtions of the points
M and N.
In affuming the arc EN’ equal to EN, is determined on the parallel
a point NV’, diametrically oppofite to the point NV’; and prolonging the
vilual ray BN’, and the line DE till they meet at s’, the interval ss’
will be the diameter of the projetion of thig paralle]. If, therefore,
the circle ADBE be brought to the pofition of the firft meridian in
this motion around the line DE, the right lines BN, BN’, will not
change their refpetive fituations; and there may be defcribed on ss’,
asa , cared the arc Ns N’, which will be the projeétion of the parallel
paffing at the latitude AN.
60. All this conftru€tion, which may be effected on one figure, is -
‘only intended to find the aarp of the diameter 4B, which —
. 4 : nte
\
xl INTRODUCTION.
fents the equator, and that of the axis ED, which is alfo the meridian
of the middle of the map; for the points m and #, combined with the
poles, give three points of each meridian, and there are alfo three for
the parallels in combining the two extremities N and N’ with the point
s determined on the diameter DZ.
The lines Cx, Cm are eafily calculated in the reétilinear triangles
DCn, DCm, re&angular at C, whence we know the common _fide
CD, and the angles CDan, and CDm, meafured by the halves of the
ares NZ and ME£, which are the complements of the longitude of the
meridians.
The triangles BCr, and BCs, give in like manner the diftancts,
Cr and Cs, which form the graduation of the meridian in the middle
of the map.
61. The conftrudtion of the polar projeion'confitts in the determination
of the degrees of the meridian, and ‘fig. 22. indicates the operation,
The circle 4DBE reprefents a meridian upon which the eye is at D
at one of the poles, and whofe projection is the diameter 4B : the arcs
AM, MN, NE, are projeted upon that line in 4m, mn, nC, by the
vifual rays DM, DN. It may be then conceived that the plane
ADBE, turning round AB, may apply itfelf on the equator; and
from the centre C, with the radii Cn, Cm, circles ave deferibed, which
are the projeétions of the parallels to the equator, paffing by latitudes
equal to the arcs dN and 4M. As to the meridians, as their planes
interfeét each other according to the axis of the poles, which is at the
fame time the optical axis, their projetions are the radii CM, CN, core
refponding with the longitudes 4M, AN.
62. In the horizontal projedion, the circle ADBE, fig. 23, indicates
the meridian of the place propofed, which divides its horizon into twa
equal parts. The eye being always at D, the vifual rays DP, DN,
DN', drawn to the fuperior pole P, and to the extremities VN and NV’
of whatever parallel, mark upon 42, which is the projection of the
femicircle AEB, the projeftion p of the pole, and the diameter nn‘
of the parallel. The equator is obtained in the fame manner, FJ”
denoting its diameter, while f/’ is that of its projection, This pro-
jection, anc that of the parallel, may be traced in conceiving that the
circle ADBE is turned around the diameter 4B, to fall on the hori-
zon; the equator being the arc £/D, and the parallel being the
circle an’.
To determine the projections of the meridians, firft is fought that
of the inferior pole P’, which the vifual ray DP being prolonged, gives
at p’, Conceiving then the circle ADBZ to be applied anew on the
horizon, there is defcribed on the diameter pp’ a circle which reprefents
the projection of the meridian perpendicular to that of the place. As
they muft all pafs through the points f, f’, the projections of the
meridians wil) have their centres in the line de perpendicular upon the
middle of p p's and to finifh their determination, it is fufficient to find
a third point, which may be done in many ways. That which I am
about to give refts upon a conitruction which agrees with all fimilar
determinations, and which confifts in referring or projecting the different
points of the equator upon the horizon, by right lines perpendicular to
the plane of the latter,
For this purpofe, I affume an arc BL, equal to the longitude of
the propofed point of the equator, and lay down GL perpendicular to
DE, then bring GL to CF from C to L”, and drawing L"L' parallel
to DZ, the point L’ of the interfeétion of the lines Di and as"
the
ieridian
vith the
ree fox
le point
riangles
ion fide
of the
> of the
jiftancks,
middle
nination
eration,
is at DD
the arcs
» by the
c plane.
or 3 and
, which
atitudes
y planes
s at the
'1V, cor
ndicates
ito twa
» DN,
and 4
of the
ter an’
r, FI
lls pros
hat the
1¢ hori-
ng the
t that
» gives
on the
refents
>» As
of the
bon the
to find
: lam
fimilar
fferent
ular to
ude of
lar to
parallel
GL ia
the
INTRODUCTION. xii
the projection required, or the foot of the perpendicular let down from
the point of the cquator, of which the longitude is equal to BL on
the horizontal plane *. ;
* ‘This being done, if we obferye that the plane, pafling through the
fight and the propofed point of the equator, being drawn by the line
CD, perpendicular to the plane of the horizon, neceffarily contains
the perpendicular let down from that point at 1’, it will be feen that
jts interfection with the horizontal plane is the line CZ’ drawn by the
centre of the horizon, ‘This right line will determine at 7 on the arc
of the circle H/D, which is the flereographic projection of the equator,
the projection of the point propofed. In repeating this conftruction,
that of the equator may be ealily graduated, conformably to the laws of
the projection,
* It will alfo be remarked, that the line CO is the projection of the
circle of altitudes (fect. 51.) drawn through the fpot which occupies
the centre of the map, and by the. propofed point of the equator,
fince the planes of the circles ot altitude pafling by the line DE necef-
farily have for projections, lines drawn by the centre C of the map.
63. The inequality of the fpaces of the graduation of the f{tereo-
graphic projection does not, in general, permit the application of a
rectilinear {cale to compare the refpective diftances of places, diftances
which are meafured according to an are of the great circle which joins
thefe places two and two; but we may always, by means of the gra-
duation itfelf, meafure the diftance hetween the centre of the map and
any one of its points; and we may, in confequence, find upon a hori-
zontal projection, referred to Paris, for example, the diftance from this
‘ity to all the other points of the globe, This property is the con-
fequence of a projection in which all the great circles which pafs by
the centre of the map, interfefting each other according to the optical
axis, have for their perfpc fives right lines drawn by that centre, and
admit a graduation fimilar to that which is marked upon the equator
of maps of the world conftructed on the plane of the meridian.
"ae placing the point of view at the centre of the fphere, and affume
ing for the pi€ture a plane tangent to its furface, there is obtained a
aE ys of the globe, in which all the great circles are reprefented
by right lines. It alters like the preceding, and ftill, in a greater
degree, the extent of the countries in proportion as they are -diftant
from the centre of the map; nor can it even reprefent an entire
hemifphere, becaufe the tal ia, drawn by the circumference which
terminates this hemifphere, are parallel to the plane of the pictures
but it may be very ufeful for portions of fmall extent, and admits a
kind of feale of which the conftrution is not difficult, It is doubtlefs
for this reafon that Prony propofed its ufe in furveying lands. This
projection is further remarkable, as it is employed in making fun dials.
It will not be difficult to modify in this cafe the enigenniie which I
have already given for the conftruction of meridional, polar, and horie
yontal projections, There muit be drawn from the point C of the
figure cited in thefe articles, the vifual rays which determine the fece
tion made in the cones, perpendicularly to the circles which are to be
*.This procefs willbe evident by its defcription alone to readers who have ftudied the
geometry of planes and turfaces; they will perceive that the angle FCB is that which forms
the plane of the equator with the horizon ; and that in confequence we have, in order to
conttruct the points of the firft, its common fection DE with the fecond, and the angle
which they comprehend. See Complement des Elemens de Geometries
reprefented
aati eT ane
INTRODUCTION.
reprefented, and the plane muft be affumed parallel to that which paffes
by the centre and is tangent to the circle ADBE. It will then be feen
that, in the projeétion on the plane of the firft meridian, the meridians
will be ftraight lines, perpendicular to the equator, which will alfo be
a right line ; and the parallels to the equator will be hyperholas, In
the polar projection the meridians will be ftraight lines, drawn from
the centre of the map, and the parallels to the equator circles having
their centie at that point: in fine, in the horizontal projeGtion the
meridians will be right lines drawn through the projection of the
fuperior pole. The parallel of the place to which the projection is
referred will be reprefented by a parabola, thofe which are nearer the
pole by ellipfes, and the others on each fide of the equator by hy-
erbolas.
64. If we conceive the point of view carried to an infinite diftance
from the piture, the vifual rays will become parallel among them-
felves; and fuppofing them then perpendicular to the plane, we fhall
have the Orthographic ProjeGion, in which the meridians and parallels
are in general reprefented by ellipfes, excepting in the polar projection,
where the meridians are right lines, and the parallels concentric circles,
The whole of the vifual rays, direéted to the different points of the
circle to be reprefented, then forms a cylinder, of which the axis is
parallel to the line marked CO, fig.20. ‘To form an idea of this it is
fufficient to infpect fig. 24, analogous to fig. 21; the vifual rays Mm,
Nn drawn by the different points of the circle ADBE, confidered as
the equator, will determine on its diameter, the graduation conformably
to the laws of the projection. The fpace mm’ comprifed between the
two perpendiculars Mm, M'm’, led from the two oppofite points of
the meridian, is the leffer axis of the ellipfis, which this circle has for
its projection ; and the great axis is the icine tet of the f{phere, or of
the firit meridian which remains circular. The paraliels to the equator,
having their planes perpendicular to that of the firft meridian, are there
reprefented by their diameters, as WN’. After the manner in which
I have modified the defign of the meridional projection, it is eafy to
find the changes which that of the two others muft undergo.
A very fimple fketch will inftantly difplay the orthographic pro-
je€tion of any place on the plane of the meridian, and its Sitance per=
pendicular to that plane. Having drawn upon the plane of the firit
meridian ADBE, by the latitude JN of the place propofed, the
diameter NN’ of its parallel, the circle is defcribed, and we take the
arc VL equal to the longitude, then drop upon NN’ the perpendicular
Li, the point / being the orshogreg his projection of the place, while
LI is its diftance on the plane of the meridian, The fame fketch
executed for another point alfo giving its projetion, it is eafy to find
the right line acrofs the globe which immediately joins thefe two
laces.
The operation is fimplified when projeéted on the plane of the equa-
tor. There is formed the angle AC » fig. 25, equal to the difference
of longitude of the places propofed ; ‘the arcs 4M and BN are aflumed
as equal to their selpehive latitudes; the right lines 7m and Nn, pers
pendicular on 4C and RC, give the projections m and n of thefe places,
while mn is that of their diftance. If then you raife on mu the per-
pendiculars mM" nN", refpectively equal to the right lines Mm, Nn,
and draw MM” N", this right li:.2 will be the chord of the arc of the
great circle comprifed within the two places propofed 5 and in carrying
ich paffes
n be feen
meridians
ill alfo be
olas. In
wn from
s having
ftion the
n of the
jection is
earer the
y by hy-
> diftance
ig them-
we fhall
parallels
rojection,
¢ circles,
ts of the
1e axis 1s
this it is
ays Mm,
fidered as
formably
ween the
points of
le has for
re, or of
equator,
are there
in which
s eafy to
phic pro-
ance per=
the firt
fed, the
take the
pudicular
e, while
e fketch
v to find
efe two
ie equa-
ifference
afflumed
fy Pere
p places,
he per-
Ms Na,
of the
arrying
i
INTRODUCTION. xiii
it to the meridian divided into degrees, we fhall obtain, as in fe&tion 47,
the meafure of the fhorteft road from the one point to the other.
If the point V was in the hemifphere oppofite to the pofition of the
point , it muft be conftruéted at N’ beneath BC, its projection on
the plane of the meridian being ftill ns; but we mutt carry the per-
pendicular N’n beneath the rig t line mn, and the fhorteft reéctilinear
diftance from the two propofed points will then be 17” N”,
65. The orthographic projection has, with regard to fpaces, the
contrary defeét from the preceding, as it diminifhes them from the
centre to the circumference, on account of the obliquity under which
the lateral parts of the fphere are prefented to its diametral plan. La
Hire thence concluded, that in prolonging the optical axis out of the
{phere, the plane or picture {till pafling by the centre, there exifted on
that axis a point where the inequality of {paces was the {malleft poffible ;
for it is evident, that when the point of view is at fuch a diftance,
that the obliquity of the rays which tends to enlarge the fpaces, becom»
ing {maller, may be compenfated by that of the projeéted lovers which
ter.ds to diminifh them, and their increafe muft be changed into decreafe,
There cannot be abfolute equality in all, becaufe the law of their varia-
tion depends on their particular fituation ; but at the limit which we
have afligned, their differences are fufficiently {mall to be negleéted in
a Aipre! Mab,
a Hire * has affumed the point of view of his projection, at the
diftance from the fphere equai to the fine of forty-five degrees. Fig.26.
fhews how the graduation of the equator is obtained, when the pro-
jection is made on the plane of the meridian, placing the eye at the
point d, fuch as Dd = FG, the arc BG being the half of BE, whence
Cg is the half of BE. It might alfo be required to place on the line
DE the point d, fo that jthe degrees of the equator contiguous to the
point (, or to the meridian of the middle of the map, and to the point
4, or to the firft meridian, fhould occupy the fame fpace on the dia.
meter 48; which is eafily accomplifhed by means of the trigono-
metrical formule, which exprefs the fize of any {pace mn.
_ I do not know if maps have been conftruéted on this projection, and
I am furprifed that it fhould not become common, for it appears to me
referable to the common projection. of maps of the world. It will be
in vain objected, that the meridians and the parallels being therein re.
prefented by ellipfes, it muft be more difficult to trace, for it is evident
that the method of the projection muft always be for a fkilful geo-
grapher the fmalleft of the difficulties prefented in the execution of
amap. There are numerous fimple and convenient methods of drawing
ellipfes through points; and we are often obliged to employ them
for the circular meridians and parallels, placed towards the centre of
maps of the world on the ftereographic projection, becaufe their radius
is too great to be defcribed with compaffes, The horizontal projec-
tion performed after the principles of La Hire, would be capable of
giving diftances as well as the ftereographic. In fine, I cannot fee
that any property of the ftereographic projeétion can recompence in
lanifpheres the inconveniences of the difprepeetian thence arifing
tween equal fpaces; and the error into which a difciple would be
led who withed to compare, for example, India with Novaya Zemulia,
or the Red Sea with Hudfon’s Bay, Fata
* Mem. de l’Acad. des Sciences, 2701, p. 260,
66. The
xliv
INTRODUCTION. !
66. The ftereographic projection is little ufed in particular maps,
and the Germans alone have introduced it, particularly Hafius, who
compofed the gréater part of the maps in the Atlas of Homann, in
much requeft towards the middle of the laft century. ‘The four parts
of the world, feparately reprefented in this projection, are only por
tions ofa plani{phere conftruéted on the like dimenfion, on the plane of
a meridian perpendicular to that which pafles through the middle of
the map, the eye being placed in the plane of the latter. The excef-
five length of the radii of the circles renders them very difficult to
obferve ; and the alteration of the {paces and diftances is not lefo than
in other projections of more eafy execution; whence thefe maps are
little known in France.
The inequality of the fpaces may, however, be diminifhed, as in the
planifphere, by placing the point of view out of the globe; but the
diftance to which it muft be carried, depending on the extent of coun.
try contained in the map, will diminifh in proportion as this extent bes
comes fraaller, and: may be cafily caleulated by comparing the degree
on the margins of the map with that which is in the middle.
"It will be eafy to perfons familiar with geometry and trigonometry,
to deduce from feétion 5g and fection 62 the procedures of the calou-
lation in order to conftruct thefe maps, and to draw the arcs of the
circles which they mu contai by points, in referring them to their
chords or to their tangents; but thefe details would here pafs the
bounds which I have preferibed to this difeourfe.
67. The mott fimple of the projections by developement, is what is
ealled the Conical Projection ; it being, in fac, natural to compare a.
{pherical zone to a truncated cone, and thence to conftruct its develope-
ment. The parallels become circles, defcribed from a fummit of the
cone taken as a centre; and the meridians are right lines fubjected to
pafs through that point. It is vifible that the refult will approach the
nearer, in proportion as the map fhall embrace lefs extent in latitude.
This projection may vary in different ways; for it may be fuppofed
that the cone is a tangent to the middle parallel of the map, and ‘in con-
fequence, exterior ;
or that it may be in part inferibed in the fphere,
that is to fay, formed by the fecants of the meridians, Jn the firk
cafe, the map will not be perfectly exact, except on the middle parallel,
which will preferve in its developement the length which it really pofs
fefles on the fphere; but the parallels placed above and beneath will
exceed thofe which on the {phere are correfpondent. Murdoch, an
Englifh geometrician, has propofed to fubftitute to the tangent cone,
a cone partly inferibed, and determined by this condition, thué the part
of its area comprehended in the map, foould be equivalent to that of the
Spherical zone which it reprefents.
The whole conttruction of this kind of map refts on the determina.
tion of the fummit of the cone, and on the amplitude which the circle
ferving asits bafe mug affume ii its developement.
When the cone is tangent to a point Z of the meridian AP, fig. 27,
its fides will be obtained in prolonging she tangent of that point till it
fhall meet the axis CP, alfo prolonged ; the line ZR, being then the
fide of the cone, and its bafis the circle, having Ze for its radius. The
developement is effected by known means, for which the Complement des
Elemen de Geometrie ray be confulted. ty RSS
To form the degrees. of longitude, we muft take the three hundred
and fixtieth part of the arc, d
efcribed from the fummit R as the centre,
12 ae with
ar maps,
NiSy W
Mani, it
UT parts
mly por
plane of
niddle of
ie excef-
cult to
efo than
laps. are
a3 in the
but the
of coun
‘tent be
> degree
jometry,
> tat
of the
to their
gafs. the
what is
npare &.
-velope-
of the
ced to
ch the
atitude.
ppofed
in Cone
fphere,
the fir
barallel,
ly pofs
th will
bch, an
t cone,
ha part
of the
rminae
circle
275
Fine
n the
. The
bent des
ndred
entre,
with
with a radius RE, and which reprefents the developement of the pa-
INTRODUCTION. xlv
rallel paffing by the point Z, then drawing right lines through the di-
vifions of that arc and the fummit of the cone, we flall have the meri-
dians, which correfponding with an arc of a greater radius than that of
the parallel, will intercept an angle fmaller than a degree. In order to
procure the degrees of latitude, we muft bear upon one of thefe meri-
dians, beginniag at the point Z, as well above as beneath, parts equal
to the developcinent of the arcs of the terreftrial meridian. In fine, we
dlefcribe from the point P, and, by the divifions of the meridian, cons
centric circles which will reprefent the parallels.
When the cone ought to be partly infcribed, there is drawn by the
points f and Fy in which it mutt interfe& the meridian, a fecant AF,
of which the junétion &’, with the axis CP, gives the point of concourfe
of the right lines which reprefent the meridians, or the fummit of the
cone ; the right lines 4.2’ being its fide, and 4 a the radius of its bafe.
The {pace AF, being that which correfponds with the arc AEF,
ought to be divided like that arc. By this conftruction we take the
chord 4F for the are AEF, and the degree of latitude is a little too
dmall, when referred to the degree of longitude on the parallels of the
points 4 and F’; but the difference is a trifle when the arc of the meri-
dian has little extent. Neverthelefs, a perfe€&t equality may be efta-
blithed between the degrees of latitude on the map, and thofe of the
meridian of the f{phere, a affuming, inftead of JJ’, the developement
of the are 42 F, this circumftance, augmenting the diftance of the radii
fAaand Ff of the parallels, fomewhat prolongs the point of concurrence
of the lines AR’ and CP.
The point R’ is obtained in general by reference to fimilar triangles:
R'da, R' Ff, which give
Aa: Ff:: AR': FR’
_ Mak f: da:: AR': FR’ or AF: AR.
When we with to have regard to the difference between the are and
its chord, we fubftitute to the line 42 the developed length of the
are MEF.
68. The aftronomer, Dellile (de la Croyére), who was charged with
the conftruction of a general map of the Ruffian empire, wifhing to
avoid the inconveniences of the ftereographic projection above-men-
tioned, chofe the conical projection: but in order to perfect it, he
thought of making the cone enter into the {phere in fuch a way that
it fhould interfect it according to two parallels, each placed at an equal
diftance from the middle parallel, and from one of the extreme parallels.
The map had, by this mean, an the two parallels juft mentioned, the
fame dimenfions as the correfpondent part of the f{phere; and its
total extent differed little from the country to be reprefented, becaufe
the excefs at the two extremities of the map was at lcaft compenfated
in part by the deficiency of the infcribed portion of the cone, with re-
fpec& to the f{pherical zone. The map comprifing from the fortieth
degree of latitude to the feventieth, the middle parallel anfwered to
§5° 5 and the parallels common with the fpheres were thofe of 47° 30’,
and 62° 30’.
Euler occupied himfelf with this proje€tion, but he fubftituted to the
determination of the parallels, which muft be common with the {phere,
that of the point of concourfe of right lines which reprefent the meri-
dians, and of the angle which they make-among themfelves in the com-
pase degree of longitude. His calculations are fupported on the
cllowing grounds. x. That the errors are equal on the fouthern and
northern
INTRODUCTION.
northern extremities of the map. 2. That they are alfo equal to
the greateit of thofe which happen towards the middle parallel.
He thence concludes that the point of concourfe of the meridian
ought to be placed beyond the pole by a quantity equal to five degrees
of Tatitude, and that the angle of two confecutive meridizis ought to
be of 48° 44’ *.
He then enquires how much the ares of the great cir}: y Sich mea-
{ure the diftances on the globe differ from the right lines «vatch are fub-
ftituted to them on the map; and he finds that an are of go° will have
on the map a length of go®. 79, of the exactrefs of lefs than a hundredth
part of its extent.
69. There may be fubftituted to the conical projeétion made on the
two parallels of the globe, a map which may coincide with three, by
defcribing the extreme parallels and the middle parallels either as right
lines, or as concentric circles of 4 given radius, then by dividing thefe
parallels according to the law of the deereafe of degrees of longitude,
we fhall procure three points for each meridian, which will be repre-
fented by the circle drawn through thefe three points, I fhall not dwell
on this projection, indicated, I believe, by Bion, in his book on the Ufe
of the Globe; and which, like that of Ptolemy, is only the conical
projection disfigured.
70, Some geographers have alfo entertained the idea of developing ina
right line all the parallels, and one of the meridians, that paffing through
the middle of the map ; thus the parallels, which are all perpendicular to
this meridian, correfpond in {paces with the globe ; there are then affumed
in each the degrees of longitude according to the law of their decreafe,
that is to fay, proportioned to the co-fines of the latitude ; in fine, there
paffes through each feries of the correfponding points of the divifion a
curve line, which reprefentsthe meridian. From this conftru€tion, of which
fig. 28. offers an example, it follows that, in refpeé to its parallels, the
map prefents throughout dimenfions equal to thofe of the fphere ; but
the configuration is confiderably altered on the fides by the obliquity of
the meridians, fo that the fpherical reCtangular quadrilaterals, comprifed
between the meridians and the parallels, are reprefented by mixtilinear
trapeziums, of which the angles are very unequal, but the areas are in
truth equal. This projection has been employed in the Atlas Celeftis
of Flamftead ; in the four parts of the world by J.B. Nolin ; and by fe-
veral other geographers, |
71. Eafy to trace, and preferving the relations of fuperficial extent
* among the different countries, this projeGion muit have mterefted geo-
graphers $ and an eafy mean was foon difcovered of correcting the defect
occafioned by the obliquity of the meridians, by fubftituting to the right
lines reprefenting the parallels, concentric circles defcribed from a
point taken in the axis of the map, and paffing by the divifions of that
- meridian, the pofition of their common centre is fixed according to the
curve which it is proper to give them, that they may interfe& all the
other meridians with as little obliquity as poffible, This projeCtion, ree
' prefented at fig. 29, is the moft ufed in France in general maps, fuch as
thofe of the four parts of the world; and among others, Delille and
D’Anville have employed it. The quadrilaterals, comprized between
the parallels and meridians of this proje€tion, arc, as in the preceding,
_ equivalent to thofe on the fphere. In both thefe, diftances ‘cannot be
exactly meafured, except on the meridians and parallels: and the {cales -
slvi
' © Acta Academiie Petropolitana, tom. I. pars 16
of
> equal fo
le parallel,
e meridian
ive degrees
s ought to
“Sich meas
eh are fub«
° will have
hundredth
de on the
three, by
r as right
ding thefe
longitude,
1 be repre-
| not dwell
on the Ufe
he conical
loping ina
g through
dicular to
on affumed
r decreafe,
fine, there
divifion a
, of which
allels, the
here ; but
pliquity of
Roe
1Xtilinear
eas are in
b Celetftis
nd by fe-
al extent
ed geo-
he defect
the right
from a
s of that
g to the
all the
ion, res
» fuch ag
lille and
between
ecedingy
Annot be
e {cales -
of
INTRODUCTION. ' xlvii
of fich’ maps only prefent approximations, which are, however, fuf-
ficient for the common purpofes of geography. _
92. M. Delorgna has propofed a new projection, poffefling the pro-
perty of reprefenting, by equal fpaces, countries of equal extent *. In
order to conftrué the map of a hemifphere, he conceives it to be divided
into half-fpindles or half-gores, to ufe the mechanical term, by planes
drawn through its axis; and upon the centre of the great circle pers
endicular to that axis, he defcribes another, of which the area fhall
be equivalent to that of the hemifphere. It is eafy to perceive that
each half {pindle will be reprefented on the circle in queftion by a feétor,
of which the angle will be equal to that formed by the two planes com-
prehended in the {pindle. This is demonftrated, fig, 30, in which P
reprefents the pole, ABD the plane of the equator, 4PB a half
{pindle comprized between two meridians and the equator, the circle
af! B! D! is that of which the area is equal to that of the hemifphere
PABDE. It will be difcovered, without difficulty, that the radius
AC mutt, in general, be equal to the chord AP of the arc of the me+
ridian, comprized between the pole and the plane, which terminates the
fpherioal cup to be reprefented +.
In the polar projection traced after this principle, the meridians are
the radii of the circle which terminates the map ; the parallels are cir-
cles concentric to the firft, defcribed with a radius equal to the chord
of the complement of the latitude ; the quadrilaterals formed by the
meridians and the parallels which terminate a zone, are equal and rect«
angular as on the {phere ; and for this reafon the configuration of the
countries is not much altered. The diftances are not meafured imme-
diately by the right line which joins the two points to be compared 3
but it does not differ much, and the exaé& proportion may be eafily de-
duced. Thefe properties, which cannot be denied to the projection of
M. Delorgna, conftitute in his opinion, thofe effential to a good geo-
graphical projection ; and, in fact, it muft be ufeful to adopt in common
maps this projection ; which is very eafy to conftruct when a hemifphere
is wanted, terminated by the equator. The author has alfo pointed out
the method of applying it to particular maps ; but the drawing becomes
complex when there is queftion of hemifpheres terminated by the hori-
zon, becaufe we mutt then fubftitute to the meridians and parallels the
azimuth circles, and the alimicanters, or thofe parallel to the horizon
of the place affumed for the centre of the map; circles to which we
cannot refer the latitudes and longitudes, except by a particular con-
ftruétion or calculation, ‘The inconvenience is the jest with regard to
“ hemifpheres terminated by the meridian; but, as I have faid above, the
difficulties of projection are of {mall account, when advantages will refult
from ic in the daily ufe of maps.
73. The operations effected in the preceding century, in order to des
termine the figure of the earth by the meafure of the degrees of the
meridian, and of the parallels, have given birth to a very important kind
of projection, as it is that of the grand map of France by Caffini, the
moft Beautiful geographical work which has been executed to the pre«
fent day.
* Principi di Geographia Aftronomico-Geometrica, Verona, 1780, ato.
+ In fad, if 1 reprefent the relation of the circumference to the diameter, 2 the
radius of the fphere, 4 the height Peof the cup Paéd, andr the radius of the cquiva-
lent circle, we thall have :
21 Rb = Mr, from which we draw 2 =2 RA; ris then the proportional middle
between the diameter of the {phere and the fegment P ¢
Whea
xviii INTRODUCTION.
‘When the admeafurement of a degree of longitude was undertaker;
the difficulty was feen that there is in drawing exactly on the earth a
parallel to the equator *. In fact, if by an alienation, dire@ted by the
means of vertical rods, and perpendicular to the meridian of a places we
may determine a feries of points, it is evident, that fuppofing the earth
{pherical, they would belong to a great circle determined by the verti.
cal plane, drawn perpendicularly to the meridian in queftion, and which
upon the earth anfwers to the celeftial circle, which is called the firft
vertical. ‘The parallel foon leaves that circle, which it only touches at
the point where it interfects the: meridian (feétion 4p). In a fpheroid,
the curve perpendicular to the meridian has a double bend, and the
enquiry into its qualities has occupied many geometricians Te.
‘The meridian and its perpendiculars being lines which are the moft
eafily drawn by altronomical and geodefiac operations, it is to the meri
dian of the obfervatory at Paris, and to its perpendiculars, that the
oints of the map of France are immediately referred, their latitudes and
Bniitudes having only been concluded @ poflcriori and by calculation t.
In order to form an idea of the manner in which this projection repre-
fents terreitrial fpaces, it muft be obferved that the great circles per-
pendicular to the meridian, fuppofing the earth f{pherical, all interfec
each other at the poles of that meridian, and, in confequence, converge
one towards the other ald 49) 3 while upon the map, where the
fame meridian is a ftraight line, they become parallel to each other.
It thence follows, that the portions determined by two circles, perpen
dicular to tbe meridian, are reprefented by re@angles of the fame length,
but Jarger towards their extremities. Thus the diftances and the arcas
cannot be meafured on the great map of France, but, by approximation,
and becaufe the extent in longitude is not fo confiderable, that the con-
vergence of the perpendiculars to the meridian fhould produce an error
of any confequence in the common oceafions of geography,
74- The rhumbs of the wind, or the directions indicated by the com-
pals, which have the property of interfecting under the fame angle all
the meridians which they meet, and which, for this reafon, bear on the
lobe the form of fpiral lines, are aifo reprefented by curved lines of that
Rind in all the maps where the meridians are not parallels, Mariners,
who direct all their courfes by thefe lines, cannot, therefore, conves
niently refer to that kind of map the courfe which they have made,
nor find that which they mean to perform, becaufe of the difficulty of
meafuring with compaffes the arcs ofa curve, and have, in confequence,
fought a projection in which the meridians fhould be ftraight parallel
lines.
When there is only occafion to reprefent very fmall {paces, or, at
Healt, little extended in latitude; there may be fubftituted .o the {phe-
rical zone the developement of a cylinder, either inferibed or cireum-
{cribed on that zone, and of which the axis may coincide with that of
the globe. The meridians which refult from fections of the cylinder by
planes paffing through its axis, are reprefented by right lines parallel to
that axis; the planes of the parallels interfeé the cylinder according to
circles parallel to its bafe, and which become right lines in the develope-
ment, Such is the conitruction of flat maps, of which the invention is
* Mem. de Caffini, Acad, des Sciences, 1746.
+ Mem. de l’Acacemie des Sciences, annee 173}.
} See the Zraite analytique des Mouvemens apparens des Corps eclestes, by Dafejour,
tii, andthe Dyiription geumétrique de la France, by Caflini,
afcribed
takeris
arth a
xy the
cey we
> earth
Vertis
which
he firft
shes at
heroid,
nd the
e moft
> meri+
at the
les and
ont.
repre-
8 per-
terfed
nverge
pre the
other.
erpen=
length,
e areas
nation,
le con-
error
com.
gle all
on the
of that
riners,
conves
made,
Ity of
uence,
arallel
or, at
fphe-
rcum-
hat of
er b
lel Al
ing to
elope-
tion ia
ifejour,
ribed
INTRODUCTION xlix
ifcribed to Don Henry, Prince of Portugal. Their defects aré analo»
gous to thofe of the conical projeion, and even more confiderable ; for
in this there may be given to two parallels their real length with regard
to the degrees of latitude, and to one only onthe flat maps, namely, to
the inferior for the developement of the cireumfcribed cylinder, and to
the fuperior for the developement of the infcribed cylinder, We might
alfo employ the cylinder conftru&ted on one of the intermediate paral
kels, and which would be in part interior and in part exterior to the
{phere; but in this way, the extent in longitude would oaly be exa&
towards the middle, though the error would be divided betwixt the
two extremities. Queftions alfo prefent themfelves here fimilar to thofe
which Euler has retolved for the conical proje&tion. It is evident, for
example, that the parallel which ferves as a bafe to the cylinder, might
be placed in fuch a manner that the area of the developement fhould be
equal tothat of the fpherical zone, |
The drawing of thefe maps may be effected without difficulty, as foon
as the pofition of the terreftrial parallel to be developed is fixed; the
only objet being to give to the degrees of longitude on that parallel
the lize which they ought to have, in regard to that afligned to the de«
gree of latitude.
The line # G, fig. 27, being fuppofed parallel to the axis ( P, and
equal to the developement of the are BF, will be the meridian of the
map, intended to reprefent the zone comprehended between the parallels
ofthe points Band F. The developement of the middle parallel,
whofe radius is £ e, will give the degrees of longitude. From the fame
figure may be obterved the deficiency of the map on the extreme pa-
rallels, fince the radius Gg is {maller than 22, andthe radius HA
greater than 2 f, .
Thefe maps being only proper for very {mall parts of the world, are
now nearly abandoned ; and in the greater part of thofe to be met with,
which are Dutch, there is no fcale of longitudes, but only of latitudes
and the rhumbs of the wind.
75. Theufe which mariners make of charts is only to trace egally in
its length and direction the courfe which they have made, aud to de-
termine the dillance from different parts of the coafts, and the direction
which hey muft obferve to arrive at or to avoid them. Tt mutt be res
marked, that by the direction to be followed to proceed from one point
to another, mariners do not underiland the neareft courfe, which upon
afphere is a circle, for the inflrument of which they make ufe, the
compafs, does not indicate immediately the neareft courfe, which inter«
feéts the different meridians wider unequal angles (fetion 4g).
Mereator and Edward Wright have imagined the projection of
reduced maps, which perfectly antwer the conditions required. ‘The
meridians are there {traight parallel lines, equidittaut, and interfeéted at
right angles by the parallels to the equator; but the intervals which
{eparate them, increafe in proportion as we advance towards the poles,
ina relation precifely the inverfe of the diminution of the degrees of
longitude upoa a globe. Thence it follows, however, that the difs
tances in longitude, meafured upon each parallel, have, with regard to
the correfpondent diftances in latitude, the fame relation as on a globe.
The drawing of thefe maps is attended with no difficulty, except the
conftru@tion of the fcale of latitudes, for which there are tables calculated
with great care, even obferving the oblate figure of the earth. ‘They
bear ‘he name of tables of increafing latitudes, becaufe of the augmente
ation of the length of each degree of latitude, in proportion as the
¢ approag
INTRODUCTION.
approach the pole, and I’ fhall indicate in another place the principles
of their formation.
It is evident that there muft not be fought on the reduced maps
neither the’ relations of the extent of countries, nor the exaétnels of
their configuration, for this projeCtion confiderably augments the ree
gions which are placed near the poles, although it fhare with the fte-
reographic projection, the. quality of preferving fimilitude in very fmalk
parts of the globe; but thefe defects are not attended with inconve-
nience in charts, which may be regarded as inftruments, defigned gra-
phically to refolve the principal queftions of pilotage, which they do
with the greateft exactnefs and facility.
76. It is to the developements of the globe that we muft refer the
conitruction of fpindles or gores, which are drawn upon paper, in
order to cover globes of a moderate fize. The furface of the globe is
divided into twelve or eighteen parts, according to the fize of its dia-
meter, by drawing meridians from 30° to 30°, or from 20° to 20°. The
{pace comprehended between two of thefe meridians having a very
{mall curve in regard to breadth, may be confidered as forming part of
a cylindrical furface, circumfcribed on the {phere, according to the
meridian which divides it into two equal parts. This meridian being
developed in bearing perpendicularly on each fide, according to the law
of ordinates, the hathwidths of the portions, or parallels comprehended
between the meridians, which terminate the foindle, we obtain the form
of its entire developement. Sometimes it is truncated at the two ex-
tremitias, at fifteen or twenty degrees from the poles; and thefe two
zones are drawn apart as if they were flat. This procedure, as may be
feen, is only an approximation, and can only ferve for the manufaéture
of globes, as it admits the advantages of engraving in it On a the
number; for the drawing thence obtained, only prefenting disjoined
portions, cannot ferve as a is § For this reafon F thall not dwell on
the fubject, which more properly belongs to the conftru&tion of geo-
graphical inftruments.
77. I have now defcribed the different kinds of maps, and fhewn
their properties and defects; but it muft be obferved that the word
defect only refers to the common way of confidering maps: for if we
regard them with Euler and Lagrange*,as a transformation of co-
ordinates, it is always mathematically poffible to obtain on a map all the
geographical relations which may be required. Only, as we have already
obferved, fome relations are more eafily obtained than others,
In faé&, the pofition of different points of the {phere being de-
termined by their latitude and longitude, as the different points of the
plane are by two co-ordinates, if we affume on a map lines fubjeéted to
a mathematical law, in order to reprefent thefe co-ordinates, we fhall
eftablith, between the points of the map and thofe of the {phere,
fuch a relation that we may aflign on the map the cquation of the lines,
which correfpond with circles, or even with any curves traced on the
fphere, and compare the relative {paces ‘vith each other, Reciprocally
it may beafked, what ought to be the nature of the co-ordinates of the
map, that is, of the lines wiich reprefent the meridians and the paral-
lels, in order that the parts of that map may have fuch and fuch a re-
lation with thofe of the fphere? In refolving this laft queftion by the
mok refined analyfis, Euler and Lagrange have determined @ priori the
* Mémoire d’Euler, Agta Academ, Petrepel, tom, i. pot. Mémoire de Lagrange,
Acad, de Berlin, année 1799,
con-
nciples
| maps
nels Pe
the re
the fte-
y Small
1 al
ed gra
bee do
fer the
per, in
slobe is
its dia-
. The
a very
part of
to the
1 being
the law
s*hended
he form
WO @X-
efe two
may be
ufagture
ying the
isjoined
well on
of geo-
1 fhewn
1e word
r if we
of co-
» all the
already
ing de-
iS Be the
&ed to
e fhall
{phere,
he lines,
on the
procally
s of =
e paral-
va re
by the
iors the
grange,
con-
INTRODUCTION. hi
conftruction of different kinds of maps, according to the qualities which
they ought to poffefs.
It is unneceffary further to enlarge on this way of viewing maps. [n
this circumftance, as in moft others, neceflity has conduéted, by ‘par-
ticular and indireét paths, to refults immediately ufeful, long before the
difcovery of the general theory.
78. When we hk:..e chofen the projection of the map about to be
conftructed, and traced the meridians and the parallels according to the
law of that projection, the whole is divided into quadrilaterals, in which
are infcribed, according to their longitude and their latitude, the points
which have thus been defined. This operation becomes the more eafy
when the meridians and the parallels are reftricted ; and they are placed
in confequense from 10° to 10°, or from 5° to 5°, or even each degree,
according to @he extent of country given in the map. Maps are alfo
diftinguifhed into general or geographical, as the planifpheres, the four
arts of the world, the great ftates; particular or chorographic ; and,
In fine, topographic, which embrace only very {mall extent, as the en-
virons of a town for example, and prefent in detail the villages, hamlets,
and, by piéturefque means about to be mentioned, the features of the
land, as woods, hills, valleys, rivulets, ravines, &c.
It is proper to remark, that in whatever projection, the quadrilaterals
formed by the meridians and the parallels near the centre of the map
differ fo much the lefs from reétangular parallelograms, as they occupy
{mall {pace on the map or on the globe ; as the map is on a large fcale s
or as the meridians and parallels are more related to each other.’ Hence
all the projections become blended with a géometrical furvey, when the
curve of the earth is little fenfible throughout their extent ; ind the
diftances are then meafured by reétilinear fcales, which indicate a certain
number of itinerary meafures ufed in the country reprefented, or in that
where the map is compofed.
When the effects of projection begin to be perceivable, the true
way of indicating the fize of the map, or its relation with the {pace re.
prefented, is to fix the fize of a a of latitude. It might be wifhed
that there were adopted for the different claffes of maps, feales not only
forming aliquot parts, but according to the decimal order, as has, been
appointed by the Depot de /a Guerre, for the maps to be there executed.
By this means, general maps become perfectly conacéted with particnisr
maps and topographical plans, becaufe the det«''s ircreafe from one
clafs to another by relations eafy to feize.
The degree of latitude in the geographical mao being {famed as an
unit, that of the chorographical map ouwht to be reprefeutcd by one of
the numbers 2, 5, or 10, which are exa& ‘iv {ous in the decimal fyftem ;
and, in like manner, for the degree rei)! ye from the dimentions of
the topographic plan, with regard to the degye> of te chovographic map.
A collection of maps, either of the wor i or of a country, is called
an Atlas; and the moft convenient above ali chofe which ferve to faci.
litate the reading of a work, and not tho’ in the largeft form, but
thofe which lead to the details by a gradual fucceflion of maps more
and more particular, The eye can rarely embrace without difficulty the
confiderable {pace comprized in a fheet of the largeft par or, above all,
when it muft be unrolled, and numerous names are fovy..c, but there
are fome cafes in which the neceffity of paffing too frequently from one
map to another becomes an inconvenience to be fhunned, aod maps of a
large form are then more expedient.
79. After thefe explanations, it may be conceived that the fize of a
map may be regulated according to the intention; and that maps eught
e 2 ve
it INTRODUCTION,
to be conftruéted inthe inverfe order of their details ; namely the topos
graphical plan reduced from plans taken trigonometrically upon the land s:
chorographical maps from an affemblage and reduétion of topographical
plans ; and, in fine, geographical maps, properly fo called, from an
affemblage and reduétion of chorographical maps.
I fiiail not here explain the methods of taking furveys, as they belong
to geometry and trigouometry ; but fhall content myfelf with fhewing
how feveral furveys are united in one topographical plan.
In order that two particular plans may be joined, they muft have two
common points, or a line of the one may be applied on a line of the
fame denomination in the other. Then defcribing this line on the paper
defigned to receive t!: topographic plan, fo that there may be on each
fide a {pace proper to comprize that about to be drawn, it only remains
to combine by triangles, either with the points of that line common to
the two plans about to be united, or with the points to be placed after-
wards, all thofe comprehended in each plane; and, by conftructing
equal triangles, in a fimilar pofition with regard to the leading line on
the topographic plan, the two plans may be united without difficulty.
But if they muft be reduced, as moft commonly happens, triangles muft
be formed on the topographic plan, like thofe on the fleets of the fur-
vey, fo that the fides of the firft nay be to thofe of the fecond in the
relation exacted by the reduction, .
When the leaves of the furvey are marked with the meridian, either
true or magnetic, and that this line is the fame in all the fhects to be.
reunited, then the points of each leaf are referred to the meridian, and
to a perpendicular drawn on that line, by a point common to two con-
tiguous leaves. ‘The diltances of all the points from each of thefe right
lincs is meafured parallel to the other, and thefe diitances are referred,
either fuch us they are, or reduced to the meridian and perpendicular
drawn in the topographic plan, to reprefent thofe which are common to
the fheets about to be joined. This leads me to fpeak of the frame
divided into fquares, employed in reducing all drawings, and which is
very convenient for the contlruction of the details of maps.
The theets which are to be united are divided into fquares by parallel
lines, perpendicular to that which is common to the fheets, and the
more they ate multiplied there is the more facility in judging of the
place to be oceupied im each fquare, by the points and circumftances
herein contained, and inferibing them with a flriét refemblance in the
corre{ponding {quares traced on the reduced plan.
This operation is reprefented in fig. 31. ‘The theets ABCD, EFGH,
having in common the right lines CD and LY, are divided into {quares,
of which the fides are parallel and perpendicular to thefe right lines ;
the reduced plan, adfe, is divided in the fame manner, in regard to
the line ¢ dé, reprefenting the common right line, but the fides of each
fquare are the halves of thofe of the theets 48CD, EFGH, {fo that the
objects marked on thefe fheets are reduced to half their dimenfions, and
to a {pace forming only one quarter of what they occupied at firlt. To
copy the defign traced on each of the original leaves, we either imitate
by the eyein the fquares of the plan af, what is contained in the core
refpondent fquares of the fheets ABCD, EF GH, or rather, for more
exactuefs, we take marks or numbers on each of the fides... When we
do not with to draw lines on the drawing to be copied, a very level glafs,
of very equal tranfparency, is placed above it, upon which fquares are
drawn with a glazier’s diamoud, and two perpendicular lives are made
to coincide on thofe which are to ferve for the junction of the theets or
the points which determine it,
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INTRODUCTION.
‘So, When a topographical plan is thus formed by the union of de-
‘tached furveys, in order to pafs to chorographic maps, we mutt not
-only affemble the plans, but-fubjeét them to the projection to be adopted.
For this purpofe we trace on thefe plans the meridians and the parallels
in right lines, refpedtively parallel and perpendicular, as thefe circles are
when only extended over a very {mall portion of terreftrial furface. The
correfpondent quadrilaterals are alfo traced on the map tobe conftru@ed,
but agreeably to the laws of projection ; and there only remains to draw
in thefe. quadrilaterals what 1s contained in the-fquares comprehended
between the meridians and the parallels of the topographic-plan. When
extreme precifion is required, as-thefe fquares do not itri@ly correfpond
with the quadvilaterals, we take, by reference to the fides of the firft,
the diftances of the principal points therein coutained ; thefe diftances
are converted into fubdivifions of the degrees of latitude and longitude ;
and the like are taken from the parallel or meridian contiguous to the
correfponding quadrilaterals of the map,
In’ thus conftructing, by fmall portions, the drawing of a map, the
embarraffment is faved which is occafioned by a too wide extention of
the compaffes; and great errors and their confequences are avoided, as
the foundation refts on the fides of the fame little fquare: befides this
fpace being very {mall, any eye of the leaft experience immediately per-
ceives:the flighteft error, which may have been committed in the tranf-
pofal of the objects.
It may happen that the topographic plan is not marked with the
points of the compafs, or being marked in the dire¢tion of the magnetic
needle, we do not know what-was the variation of the needle at the time
the plan was taken, or reduced, or even on the fpot of the operations,
This effential objeét may be fupplied, when the plan contains two points
of which the setpelaive pofition is known ; as in joining thefe two points
-by.a right line, we thall find the angle which this right line forms-with
the meridian, and we may in confequence place it in,its due relation to
the meridian, or conftruct by means of a given angle the meridian of the
lan.
By the fame method may alfo be determined the fcale of a topogras
phical plan, when it has been omitted; for if we know the diftance of
two points in that plan, we have only to divide into parts, proportioned
to the itinerary meafures contained iu this diftaace, the right line which
joins thefe two points; which thus becomes the feale of the map, and
fhews the diftance of ali the other points from each other,
8:. Che paffage from chorograp!ical maps to a tian or geogra-
phical map is analogous to that from topographical plans to the choro-
graphic map, by tranfpofing into the quadrilaterals, formed by the
meridians and the parallels of the geographical map, what is contained
inthe correfpondent quadrilaterals of the chorographic maps, -which are
aifemblet and reduced.
It is-above all in this laft operation that we perceive the neceffity of
aftvonomical obfervations, in order to fix the potition of points at tome
diftance from each other; it may in fact happen, that in the topogra-
phical maps, which ferve for the conftru€tion of the chorographic, there
may be errors common to all points of the map, as diftances too {mall
or too large in. the fame direction, and that thefe errors remain on the
chorographic maps 3 and, in re-uniting the latter upon a general map,
the large {paces which it reprefents will be found too much reftri&ed
or dilated without the errors being perceived. But when there is placed
fairectly on the chorographic maps, or at lealt ou the geographic, a cers
e 3 tain
liv INTRODUCTION.
tain number of points, of a latitude and longitude ftriétly determined,
thefe points will define upon the map certain fpaces, in which thefe
points and intermediate details may be laid down; and if this do not
happen, the excefs or deficiency perceivable, arifing from the errors of
many maps aflembled, is divided among all the points of each, and
thence becomes almoft infenfible, except there be fome reafon to afcribe
the inaccuracy to particular points which muft be corrected hy the aftro-
nomical obfervations upon others.
To lend more exaétnefs to the copies of their maps, it is upon the
copper itfelf that the geographers of the Depot de la Marine execute
their graduation; and they even attend to the alteration of dimenfions
occafioned by the drying of the paper. The procedure followed in
thefe operations may be found in the Voyage of the fhip Flora, drawn
up by M. de Fleurieu, and the article Carte of the Encyclopédie Me-
thodique.
82. It is not difficult to perceive that we may, by the means above
indicated, transfer upon globes the details marked in chorographic and
geographic maps, ‘This operation, which I have mentioned in feé&. 465,
confifts in dividing, by meridians and parallels, the furface of the globe
into quadrilaterals fo {mall, that the curve of that furface may be little
fenfible, and to draw in thefe quadrilaterals what is contained in the
correfpondent quadrilaterals of the maps of various parts of the earth.
Such would be the procedure in the conftructicn of maps, if we might
in all countries begin with topographic maps, and materials reduced
to the fame meafures, equally accurate and perfeétly accordaat ; but
unhappily this is not the cafe, there being but a fmall number of
countries, and France alone completely, which have been trigonome-
irically furveyed. As to the other parts, there are only maps con-
flruéted after different methods, aad upon data which are little exaé&.
It is only in endeavouring to reconcile all thofe that reprefent the fame
country, that we. know the degrce of confidence that may be placed
in each, and that we may approach the real delineation.
After fome obfervations on itinerary meafures, M. Lacroix thus
proceeds;
When we have eftablithed the agreement of the meafures, or of the
{cales employed in different maps, we can conftru& a graduation to
thofe which are deftitute of it, as foon as we know, either immediately,
or by the diftances of given points, the latitudes and longitudes of
whatever point of thefe maps, We may in confequence compare,
by the latitudes and longitudes which they affign to the fame places,
the maps which comprehend the fame regions; and this manner is the
more convenient, becaufe it eafily permits a reference to the difference
of projeAions in thefe maps.
The fame point being thus placed under different latitudes and Jon-
itudes in feveral maps, in orer to procure to thefe data the degree
of confidence which they merit ; it mult be obferved how thefe maps
prefent otier circumfiances, as the reipective fituations with :egard to
points well determined, luch as the capitals of large countries, or of
their provinces, the diftances of thefe towns from places of lefs cone
fequence, the configurations of the fhores, of the courfes of the rivers,
of the chains of mountains, of the high roads, the limits of territory ;
and to examine in what they agree and in what they differ under each
of thefe relations. The latitudes, more eafy to be obferved than the
longitudes, are generally better eftablifhed upon maps drawn on the
relations of travellers, ‘The common dete&t of the ancient maps is
14 coufiderably
nined,
thefe
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INTRODUCTION. ty
confiderably to augment all the diftances of the places in the direCtion
of eaft and welt; and the error becomes the greater in proportion as
the points are diftant from the principai meridian, wh'ch regulates the
longitudes of the others, This fault is very remarkable in the maps
of Ptolemy with regard to the differences of longitude between Alex-
andria and the other, towns upon the fhorés of the Mediterranean.
The maps of the Sanfons, of Jaillot, and others, compiled towards the
end of the feventeenth century, alfo extend all the countries in the
dire€tion of the longitudes. Such maps ftill furnith ufeful materials
when the pofitions are corrected in the dire€tion of caft and weft, by
dividing, proportionally to the diftance from the principal meridian,
the difference between the longitudes affigned in thele maps, and thofe
which refult from new determinations.
In his Companion to a Map of the World, (London 1794, 4to.) Mr.
Arrowfmith offers the following practical remarks on projeétion *,
‘© As the Earth is of a form approaching very near to a globe, or
{phere, it is evident that the only map which can truly reprefent the
figure of the various countries, and their relative bearings and diftances,
muft be delineated on the furface of a Globe.
‘¢ But as globes of a fize proper to exhibit a map fufficiently
accurate, and containing all the information that is neceffary or de-
firable, muft be very bulky; and very expenfive, it is neceffary to have
more portable and cheaper Maps, executed upon a flat furface ; thefe,
fince the art of copper-plate printing has been in ufe, have generally
been made upon paper.
* Itis obvious, that fuch a map, wherein is attempted to reprefent
upon a plane furface that which is really {pherical, muft depart con-
fiderably from the truth; efpecially if it comprehends the whole, or a
confiderable portion of the world. It has, therefore, been an obje&
which has engaged the attention of the moft eminent geographers, to
difcover a projection (or arrangement, of the proportional parts of the
map) which thould be liable to the feweft errors.
‘The moft natural method of reprefenting a {phere upon a plane
feems to be to divide it into two equal arts, and infcribe each of them
in a circle: but as the equator, and the polar axis, which interfe&s
that circle at right angles, and makes one of the meridians, muft be
fuppofed equal in length to the half of the periphery, (of which it is
not quite two-thirds ), it follows, of courfe, that the countries delineated
upon, or near, thefe lines, muft be reduced to fomewhat lefs than two-
thirds of the fize of the countries of equal extent, which lie at the
extremity of the circle; and thot the lines drawn to meafure the
latitude, which are parallel to each other, or nearly fo, muft, in order
to preferve as nearly as poffible their proportional angles at the points
of interfe€tion with the meridians, form fegments of circles, of which no
two are parallel or concentric.
“ There may be as many different projections as there are points
of view, in which a globe can be feen, but geographers have generally
chofen thefe which reprefent the poles, at the top and bottom of the
map; thefe, from the delineation of the lines of latitude and longitude,
ave called the iter:ographic, orthographic, and globular projections.
* I do not propofe to detain the reader with a defcription of all
the projeQions; fome of which are fo erroneous (for the purpofe of
* The grammatical errors are partly corre Yed,
c 4 conftructing
i
{
|
}
;
rn rs mas a a Ie haan
Ivi INTRODUCTION.
conftruting of maps) as to deferve being configned entirely tq
oblivion, But.as projections of maps form a pleafing and irftructive
exercife, and indeed indifpenfably neceffary to the right underitanding
of Geography, by itudents, I fhall defcribe the manner of conftrudting
the map that accompanies this work, But firft hint at the Stereogras
phic Projection *. Among the various pofitions affignable to the eye,
there are chiefly two that have heen adopted, wherein the eye is placed,
either in the points (D, fig 1.) or removed to an infinite diftance ;
and hence this projection is liable to the great error of diltorting the
form of the countries reprefented upon it, much more than is ueceflary.
‘The only advantage is, that the lines of latitude and longitude inter, °
fee each other at right angles.
“6 This being obferved by that excellent aftronomer, M. de la Hire t,
he invented a remedy for the inconvenience, by afligning to the eye
a pofition at the point O (fig.1.), the diftance of which, from the
globe at D, is equal to the right fine of 45 degrees; and hence the
right line GO, ,which bifecls the quadrant BC, alfo bife&ts the radius
EC, and produces the fimilar triangles OFG, and OES; and thus the
other parts of the quadrant BC, and in lke manner of the whale femi-
circle ABC, are reprefented in the projection nearly proportionable
to each other, and to the eye perfectly fo.
“6 This projection, as coming the neareft to a true reprefentation of
the globe, is called the Globular ProjeCtion: it is equal to the Stereo-
graphic in point of facility, and vaitly fupcrior to it in point of
truth,
“ Geometrical Conftrudion of the Glotular Projefion, —
«From the centre C (fig 2.) with any radius, as CB, deferibe a
circle ; draw the diameters 7B, and go, go, (be careful to diaw them
at perfect right angles,) and divide them into nine equal parts; likes
wife divide each quadrant into nine equal parts, each of which contains
ten degrees; if the fcale admits of it, every one of thefe divifions may
be fubdivided into degrees: next, to draw the meridians, fuppofe the
meridian 80° W. of Greenwich, we have given the two poles go, go,
and the point €0 in the equator, or diameter 4B; defcribe a circle
to pafs through the three given points as follows; with the radius go,
fet one foot of the compaffes on the point go, and deferibe the femi-
circles XX and ZZ, then remove the compafies to the point 80, on
the equator, and defcribe the arcs 1, 1, and 2, 23 where they interfe&
the femicircle, make the point, as at 1 and 2, and draw lines from 2
through the point 1, till they interfeét the diameter Bd, continued
in £, then will £ be the ceutre from whence the meridian ga, 80, go,
muft be drawn, and will exprefs the mevidian of 80° W. longitude from
Greenwich. The fame radius will draw the metidian exprefling 140%
W. longitude, in ike manper. Draw the next meridian with the ra-
dis CB, fet one foot of the comprfles in the poiat d, and deferibe
the arcs aa and 44, then draw lines 2s before, will give the pomt D,
the centre of go° W. longitude, and fo of all the reft.
* ‘The parallels of latitude are drawn in the fame manner, with this
difference, that the femicireles XX and ZZ muft be drawn from the
poimts 4 and &, the extremitics of the equator,
* “ The great geographer D'Anville, has conftruéted his map of the World upon
this projection, adapting it to Caltini’s fyitem of the figure of the Barth, which makes
the polur diimerer longer than the cquatorial.
+ EMI Acad, Scieae, 3 703.
Tr
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© Tn
INTRODUCTION, lit
t¢ Yn the manner above defcribed, with great labour and exadtnefg,
{ drew all the meridians and parallels of latitude to every degree on
two hemifpheres, which laid the foundation of the map now before us,
«© We fhall now drop a few hints on the advantage and difadvantage
of Mercator’s Projection.
«© A method has been found to obviate fome of the difficulties attends
ing all the circular projections by one, which, from the perfon whe
firft ufed it, (though not the inventor, ) is called Mercator’s Projeétion,
In this there are none but right lines; all the meridians are equidiftant,
and continue fo through the whole extent; but, on the other hand,
in order to obtain the true bearing, fo that the compafs may be applied
to the map (cr chart) for the purpofe of navigation, the {paces
between the parallels of latitude, (which in truth are equal, or nearly
{o,) are made to increafe as they recede from the equator in a propors
tion which, in the high latitudes, become prodigioufly great. .
“© The great advantages peculiar to this projection are, that every
place drawn upon it retains its true bearing with refpeét to all other
places; the diftances may be meafured with the niceft exaétnefs b
proper {cales, and all the lines drawn upon it are right lincs, For thefe
reafons, it is the only projeCtion in drawing maps or charts for the
ufe of navigators.
“© Its only difadvantage is, that the countries in high latitudes
are of neceflity increafed beyond their juft fize to a monftrous degree.
«© Thus it appears, from this fhort view of three of the beft modes
of projeGting maps of the World upon a plane furface, that each of
thote which have been more particularly defcribed, is attended with
advantages and difadvaatages peculiar to itfelf; it is obvious, that the
only means to acquire a juft idea of the various countries upon fuch a
furface, is by a comparilon of tivo maps, one laid down on the Mers
cator’s Projection, and the other upon the beft of the Circular Pro«
jections,”
83. But the itinerary meafures adopted by the civilized nations of:
Europe, where fcience has been cultivated, are ina great meafure free
trom this difficulty, as moft of them have been repeatedly compared
either with the degree of the meridian, or with each cther by means
of their refpeétive ftandards ; for initance, the Englifh, and the nautical
miles, the degree of the meridian contains 69.2 of the firft, and 60 of
the fecond: the Englifh foot is now known to be equal to 0.9384
of the French foot, or 11 inches 3.1 lines; and the Englifh yard of
three feet is equal to 33 inches 9.3 lines perch meafure,
By fimilar companions and redu@tions the meafures ufed in one
country may be eltimated in thofe of another; but it often happens
that in the fame kingdom there are local meafures in particular pro-
vinces which are but little known, and which differ confiderably from
the general ftandard. The difficulty of comparing thefe often gives
rile to great confufion; in France, for example; nothing can differ
more than the league of one province from that of another: the perch
likewife ufed by artificers is equally uncertain, varying from 18 to
22 feet.
84. [t was to remedy this inconvenience that the French government
refolved to adopt a new ftandard meafure, which, being founded in
nature, fhould be for ever independent of accidental cireumftances.
The Merre isthe ten millioneth part of the quadrant of the meridian,
and the various fubdivifions and multiples of this ftandard unity will
be given in the fubjoined tables,
85. The
lili INTRODUCTION.
85. The laborious operations recently concluded for the purpofe of
eftablifhing the metrical fyftem, have not only been the occafion of a
great number of accurate comparifons being made of differeat modern
meafures, but have likewife induced many learned men to inveitigate
the relation of thefe meafures with thofe of the ancients. ‘T'o fucceed
in this attempt, we have only the traditionary relations of ancient
writers of the meafures of edifices, moftly either defaced, or entirely
deftroyed by time; and of the diftances of cities from each other,
which likewife have either difappeared from the furface of the earth,
or whofe pofition is ftill a fubje& of doubt and difcuffion, If we
attempt to compute thefe diftances from the writings of geographers,
as Hipparchus, Ptolemy, and Strabo, a great difficulty arifes from their
ufing the fame word * fadium,”’ to expreis different meafures. M. Gof-
felin, for example, has fhewn that Ptolemy ufes occafionally both the
fladium of 500 and 700 to a degree.
The expedition of the French into Egypt, during the years 6 and 7
(1799, 1800), by procuring us very exact meafurements of fome of the
moft ancient and beft preferved monuments of former ages, will afford
us great affiftance in thefe inveftigations. M. Girard has already pre-
fented a memoir on this fubject, chiefly relating to the cubit of the
Nilometer found in the ifland Elephantis, in Upper Egypt, an ancient
edifice, formerly built to meafure the increafe of the Ni, a circum.
ftance of great importance in a country whofe fertility depends entirely
upon it. It would be foreign to the defign of this introduétion to
enter farther into this difficult fubje&: feveral very valuable works
have been written on this fubject, to which the reader is referred, vid,
Traité des Mefures Itinéraires des Anciens, by D’Anville; Metrologie,
by Pauéton ; Traité des Mefures, by Romé de Lille, &c. &c.
86. When different maps are to be compared, if the relation of their
refpective meafures are known, a graduated fcale may be conftructed
for them, provided the latitude and longitude of fome point be known,
And different maps of the fame kingdom may be examined by obferv-
ing the latitudes and longitudes which are affigned to the fame place ;
and this method has the advantage of not requiring any attention to
be paid to the different proje&tions which may have been employed for
their conftru&tion.
We may judge of the eccuracy of different maps by obferving the
degree of difcordance that prevails in the latitudes and longitudes ;
and to determine which merits the preference, other circumftances may
be examined, fuch as the diltances of places well known, as the capitals
of kingdoms and provinces, the courfes of rivers, the configuration of
their fhores, chains of mountains, high roads, boundaries of territory,
&c.; and by obferving in what they agree, and in what they differ,
we may form a judgment of their comparative accuracy. The latitude
of a place being more eafily determined than its longitude, is ufually
the moft exactly placed in maps conftructed from the relation and
obfervation of travellers. The nioft common defeé& in ancient maps
is to aflign too great a diftance to places fituated eaft and welt of each
other; and this error is the greater as the places in queftion are farther
removed from the principal meridian, ‘This is particularly remarkable
in the charts of Ptolemy, in which the longitudes of the places on
the fhores of the Mediterranean, and remote from Egypt, are made
much too great. The charts of Janfon, Jaillet, and others, conftru@ted
about the end of the 17th century, have likewife the fame defect,
Thefe charts afford, neverthelefs, ufeful materials, when the longitudes
° are
1e purpofe of
ooratier of a
erent modern
to inveitigate
To fucceed
is of ancient
» or entirely
each other,
of the earth,
ffion. 3 we
eographers,
toon theit
es. M. Gof-
ally both the
ears 6 and 7
y fome of the
s, will afford
3 already pre-
cubit of the
yt, an ancient
ile, a circum.
ends entirely
troduction to
luable works
referred, vid,
; Metrologie,
&ec.
ation of their
e confructed
nt be known.
d by obferv-
fame place ;
attention to
pmployed for
bferving the
longitudes ;
nftances may
s the capitals
figuration of
of territory,
they differ,
he latitude
e, is ufually
relation and
ncient mapé
velt of each
are farther
remarkable
places on
» are made
conftru&ted
ame defect.
2 longitudes
are
INTRODUCTION. lix
are proportionably corrected, by comparing the extreme error with
raodern obfervations. When no reafon appears why any preference
fhould be given to one chart over another, a new one may be cone
ftruéted, by taking the mean of all the longitudes and latitudes accord.
ing to the ufual arithmetical rule. With thefe new data, the general
outline is to be filled up according to the rule given, No. So and 81.
87. In comparing fmaller maps by means of the diftances between
different points (and which diftances bave perhaps been the foundation
of the map), it is ufeful to affume two points, whofe diftance may ferva
as a ftandard to which the reft may be compared, In comparing the
pofition of a third point with thofe on two different maps, two triangles
fhould be conftruGted on the fame bafe, and the difference of their fume
mits will fhew the difcordance between them; and the middle point
fhould be chofen as the mean betweenthem. Three comparifons of this
kind will give a triangle, and feveral a polygon; and the mean pofition
will be found by taking the centre of gravity of the figure thus formed.
The theory of this operation will eafily be underftood by thofe con.
verfant in the principles of ftatics ; I fhall only add, that the centre of
gravity of a triangle is found by drawing lines from each angle to the
point bife&ting the oppofite fide; and this rule will fuffice for three
determinations.
When, by this method, the diftance .. one point is determined from
two others, fuppofed given in pofition, its longitude and latitude may
be determined, and the place transferred on the new chart, whatever
may be its projection, But if the chart includes but a very {mall fpace,
the fame operation may be more conveniently performed, by employing
a treillis or {cale of crofs lines to lay off on the new chart the mean of
the different determinations.
Tt is not my intention to enumerate all the methods employed by
geographers in the conftruCtion of maps from the different materials that
occafionally come into their poffeffion ; enough has been faid to enable
the reader, if acquainted with the geometrical principles of the fcience,
to apply them advantageoufly to practice, when an opportunity oce
curs, having fufficiently explained the nature and objeét of thefe vari-
©us operations.
I have fuppofed materials to have been colle&ted, not from trigo-
nometrical furveys, but the obfervations and relations of travellers and
hiftorians, That nothing effential may be omitted, I fhall add the
method of reducing thefe materials into the form of a chart, particularly
as it is from fuch relations that maps relating to ancient geography are
conftructed. ‘ ;
88. But, to proceed methodically, we fhould firft examine the nature
of the data that can be collected from. the relation of travellers and
hiftorians: thefe are of two kinds, the one comprehends the traditior
of certain celeftial phenomena, from which at leaft the latitude can be
ealculated, as the length of the folititial days, the lengths of the
fhadows of gnomons; the other is the ftatement of the length of the
road between the two places, determined with a greater or lefs degree
of precifion, and fometimes the indication of the FreGtion or bearing of
one place relative to the meridian of the firft. It will be fhewn; that
this latter method is that which is adopted by mariners, and, if exaé,
would be fufficient to give the fituation of a place with precifion,
Among the data of the firft clafs may be cited the remark attributed
to Pytheas, a traveller who lived, it is fo pofed, about 120 years before
the Chriftian era, in the Greek colony eftablifhed at Marfeilles,
¢ He
‘
bo INTRODUCTION.
He relates, that in the Ifle of Thule, fituated to the north of the
Britannic ifles, and the moft rorthern land known at that times
there was no night at the folftice of fummer, nor no day on the foiftice
ef winter. This phenomenon places the ifland, mentioned by Pytheas,
under the polar circle, and can only agree with Iceland; and this feema
confirmed by what the ancients relate of the magnitude of this ifland 5
meverthelefs, fome difference of opinion ftill fubfifts on this fubjec,
artly becaufe of the great diftance of the place from the Britannie
wlands, and the difficult navigation incidental to fo inclement a climate 5
and partly becaufe later authors than Pytheas have fpoken differently of
it. Stephanus of Byzantium, for example, defcribes the day as 20
hours long in fummer, and four hours long in winter; this would bring
it much nearer, and within a few degrees of the Britannic ifles. But
the account given of it by Procopius, the Greek hiflorian, would make
ws imagine it to have been ftill farther north. Without entering inte
this controverfy, I {hall only obferve, that the knowledge of geography
has’ varied fo much in different ages, that fome countries have become
unknown and forgot, while new ones have been difcovered ; fo that the
name.of Zhule may really have been given to very different places.
If we prefer the authority of Pytheas, whofe defcription feems very
exact, and moreover relates to a phenomenon which mutt have appeared
very remarkable to the fouthern inhabitants of Europe, we muft fup-
pofe the place under the polar circle ; and to deduce the latitude, we
muft take into confideration the diminution of the ecliptic fince the
time this author lived. Admitting the change to be 50” for every cen-
tury, the total change for about twenty-one centuries will be 17’ 30” g
the prefent obliquity being 23° 28’, in-the time of Pytheas it muft have
been 23° 45’ 30”. Hipparchus, who lived near two centuries later
than Pytheas, fuppofed it 23° 51/ 20”, and whichever of thefe deter-
=o we adopt, the Thule of Pytheas would be under the parallel
of 66°.
But if we adopt the length of the folftitial day, as given by
aarueune of Byzantium, we fhall only have 63° for the latitude of
ule .
The fame Pytheas relates, that at Marfeilles a gnomon divided inte
120 parts, projected at the fummer folltice a fhadow whofe length
wes equal to 414 ofthefe parts. By conftructing a right angled triangle
whofe fides are in this ratio, it appears that the altitude of the fun muft
have been 71°; if from this the obliquity of the ecliptic as eftablifhed by
Hipparchus at 24°, in round numbers be taken, there will remain 47°
for the height of the equator at Marfeilles, or 43° of latitude.
Sometimes the Greek aftronomers have indicated the height of the
fun in cubits each of 2°. According to Hipparchus, the fun’s altitude
at the winter’s folftice was wy nine cubits on the parallel of latitude
afling through the mouth af the Boryfthenes (at prefent the Dnieper):
his ai. the altitude of the fun 18%, and the latitude computed
from this is 48°, which differs but little from modern determinations,
It was from this kind of data that Hippavchug divided the whole
diftance from north to fouth of the known world into parallels. The
table of climates (N°. 20) calculated by this aftronomer, indicated the
rincipal celeftial phenomena for every degree of latitude, and thereby
enabled attentive travellers to verify or improve the ftate of geographic |
cal knowledge.
89. It is not now exa&ly known in what manner Eratotthenes, and
afterwards Hipparchus, fettled their longitudes, the works of. me
e early
¢
rth of the
that times
the folitice
y Pytheas,
this feems
his ifland 3
ris fubject,
» Britannie
a climate $
fferently of
day as 20
ould bring
ifles. But
rould make
tering inte
geography
ave become
fo that the
laces.
f{eems very
ve appeared
e muft fup-
atitude, we
ic fince the
r every cen-
be 17’ 30"
it muft have
ituries later
hefe deter.
the parallel
given by
Mtatitude of
divided int
ofe length
led triangle
e fun muft
ablifhed by
remain 47°
ight of the
n’s altitude
of latitude
Dnieper):
computed
inations,
the whole
lels. The
dicated the
md thereby
henes, and
s of thefe
early
geographie ;
INTRODUCTION. Ixi
‘ early geographers not having been tran{mitted to us; it is fuppofedy
however; that it was by the means of itinerary diftances, which was
very applicable to places in the Mediterranean, and along its coafts,
which lay in an eaft and weft direGtion.
With refpe& to places not fo conveniently fituated, they combined
thefe diftances into a fyltem of triangles, which method I fhall ex
emplify by a cafe taken from the work of M. Goflelin, entitled,
« Recherches fur la Géographie fyftématique et pofitive des Anciens.’?
From the defile called Calpia Pyle to Babylon, Hipparchus reckons ~
6,700 ftadia. From Babylon to Suza 3,400, in the direétion of a ©
parallel to the equator.upon which he fuppofed both thefe cities to be
fituated ; and laitly from Suza to the Cafpie Pyle 4,900 ; thefle three
places form the triangle B, S, P, (fig. 32.) the initials of the places
reprefented. Ifa perpendicular P.4 be drawn from the fummit P of
this triangle to the oppofite fide BS, which reprefents the parallel paff
ing through Babylon and Suza, the length of this perpendicular 4,705.
ftadia, wil be the difference of latitude between the Cafpie Pyle and
Suza. This diftance,-eftimated in degrees, (700 ftadia to a degree)’
gives 6° 43’, for the difference of latitude, and that of Suza being fixed:
by Hipparchus at 33° 34’, the latitude of the Cafpie Pyle would
be 40° 17’.
The diftance §.4, contained between the extremity of the perpen
dicular P.4 and Suza, 1,370 ftadia, gives the diftance between the two
places meafured from eatt to weit. ”
To conclude with fome degree of precifion the difference of longi+
tude exprefled in degrees, it would be requifite to attend to the dimi«
nution of the degrees between thefle parallels, and which are intere
feéted by the oblique line joining thefe two points; but this correction
would be very little in comparifon of the error which more modern
obfervations have dete&ted im thefe ancient determinations, and which
arifes, not only from the curvature of the earth being negle&ted, but
becanfe the itinerary meafures were eftimated in a very vague and
inaccurate manner, by days journies either by land and fea, in which
_ were reckoped the differeut windings of the road and the finuofity of
the fhore. It is only therefore, by a very careful inveftigation of dif-
ferent authoritics and by a judicious choice of different data, that the
errors of one can be re&tified by thofe of another. The circumftance
on which critics place their greateft reliance, is the probability that the
mean of a great number of thefe determinations will not differ widely
from the truth, fince it generally happens that when an error has been
found in one direction, the fear af falling into the fame, produces
another in an oppofite direction, and from thefe confiderations refults
tolerably accurate are fometimes obtained from very defective materials,
But it is the detail of the particular configuration of each country
that has been of the greateft ufe in improving our knowledge of ancient.
geography. for thefe local circumitances have been uiually very faithe
ully deferibed, not only by hiftorians but by poets. Our modern geo-
raphers make the ancient map which they propofe to conitruét {ub-
ervient to the configuration of the country as recently determined, and
by this means are able to explain the meaning af many paflages in
ancient authors, and to determine the pofition of places which
they have defcribed, It is thus that the ‘l'ravels of M. Choifeuil
Gouvier into Greece, and M. Chevalier to the Plains of Troy, have
afforded very valuable documents to .M. Barbier du Boccage, for
the conftruction of his atlas to the Zravels of nacharfis; and it ia
e i well
/
Ixik ‘INTRODUCTION:
well known what utility D’ Anville derived in conftruéting his maps of
Ttaly and Greece from a judicious comparifon of ancient and modern
relations,
Hittorians who often had nothing in view but to relate the marches of
- armies, only indicate the route by the fucceffion of places, without
noticing the turnings and change of dire€tion. In this manner military
maps were fometimes conftructed ; for example, the one found in 1547
among the papers of Peutinger. ‘This chart, though 22 feet long, was
only one foot broad ; it appears to have been conftructed in the time of
Theodofius the Great ; it embraces all the extent of the. then known
world, but:diminifhed in breadth, fo as to appear abfurd, till we refle&
that it is only intended: to indicate the diftances of places, and not their
relative pofitions, or the configuration of the country, which could not
have been preferved in this form, which was fuited to be rolled up ina
fmall fpace ; yet this map is extremely valuable, fince the diftances of
thofe places which are known appear to be very exact, from which we
conclude, that thofe which are now deftroyed or forgotten are fo
likewife.
It was by a fimilar comparifon, and from a knowledge of modern
geography, that M. Goffelin, in the work above-mentioned, fixed the
extent of the navigation of the Carthaginian Hanno, and the hiftorian
Polybius along the coafts of Africa.
By thefe methods the ftudy of ancient geography has been reduced
to a fyftem, by which the identity of ancient cities and places is eftab-
lifhed with thofe more recently divcovereds And this 1s accomplithed
either by the fimilitude of the country with that formerly defcribed,
its relative fituation with refpe& to others that are known, and fome-
times by ancient monuments and traditions ; and laftly, by the fimilarity
of name, conformity of language, and by the manners of the inhabit-
ants, This method alfo is fometimes applied to the long voyages un-
dertaken in the 16th century, the tradition of which is often extremely
confufed, the narrative of them being ufually drawn up in too confufed
a manner to afford the requifite data forthe determination of the fituae
tion of the different places which were vifited by thefe early navigators,
gt. Jt has already been remarked, (N° &8.) that befides the itinerary
or linear diftance of a place, it is neceffary alfo to have its direétion.
Before the difcovery of the compafs this could not be very accurately
afcertained, The ancient navigators, oo with inftruments,
dire&ted their courfe by the circumpolar ftars, chiefly by thofe in the
Great Bear, our prefent polar ftar being 12° from the pole in the time
of Pytheas. ‘They divided the horizon into a few fubdivifions, often
determined by local circumftances, as appears by the names they gave
to the winds. é .
The Grecks at firft gave only four names to the winds, correfponding
to the four points, north, fouth, eaft and weft, called afterwards the
cardinal points, Thefe names were
Eurus or the Eat
Zephyrus . Wet
Boreas - e«) North
Notus Siege South.
They afterwards added four others, correfponding to the four polets
in which the fun rofe and {ct at the winter and fummer folftices, Sencca
in his Queftiones Naturales, has given their names.
Subfolany
is maps of
nd modert
marches of
2s, without
ner military
id in 1547 -
t long, was
the time of
then known
ll we refleé&
1d not their
h could not
sled up ina
liftances of
n which we
tten are fo
of modern
j, fixed the
he hiftorian
een reduced
es is eftab-
ccomplifhed
y defcribed,
, and fome-
e fimilarity
he inhabit-
voyages une
n extremely
oo confufed
bf the fituae
navigators.
he itine
ts direQion,
accurately
inftruments,
thofe in the
in the time
fions, often
e they gave
rrefponding
wards the
four points
es, Sencca
Subfolany
INTRODUCTION.
Subfolanus or Apeliotes, Eaft wind.
Vulturnus, Eurus. Winter rifing.
- Euronotus. Between this laft and the fouth.
Autter. Notus, South wind.
Lebonotus. Between the fouth and winter fet.
: ‘ting.
Africus. Lebs. Winter fetting.
Favonius. Zephyrus. Weft.
Corus. Argettes. Summer fetting.
Thrafeias, Between this and the north.
Septentrio, | Aparetias. North.
Aquilo, Mefes. Between this and fummer rifing.
Caceas, Summer rifing.
From this table are derived twelve divifions, which if equal would
contain each 30°, but the rifing and fetting points determined by the
folftitial amplitudes of the fun, depend on the obliquity of the ecliptic
and the latitude of the place. This method of fubdivifion was therefore
too local and partial to continue long in general ufe.
Vitruvius has tran{mitted a divifion of the horizon into twenty-four
pee of 15 degrees each, and the nathes affigned to each wind are as
ollows::
Solanus. Ea wind. Favonius, Welt wind.
Ornithiz. Etefiz.
Cecias. Arcius.
Eurus. Caurus.
Vultarnus. Corus.
Euronotus, Thrafcias,
Auftra. South wind. Septentrio. North wind.
Altanus. Gallicus.
Lebonotus. ‘ Supernas,
Africus. Aquilo.
Subvefperus, Boreas.
Argeftes. Carlas,
By this diftribution, it is eafy to affign the angle which any parti.
cular wind makes with the meridian ; for example the direétion of the
wind Boreas being the fourth after the north, neceflarily makes an angle
of 60° with the meridian line.
Modern navigators divide the horizon into thirty-two parts or rhumbs,
each quadrant. containing eight. Ir. the ocean thefe are denominated
after the cardinal points, but in the Mediterranean they are known
moft commonly by particular names.
The following table will fhew in what manner thefe correfpond with
each other. It begins from the eaft that it may the more eafily be come
pared with the preceding.
In tHe Ocean. In THe Mepirerranean.
Easr. ° . Levante.
_ E.by S, ° Quarta di levante firocco.
E.S.E. “ evante firocco,
S.E. by E. - Quarta di firocco levante,
%.E. . Sirocco.
uarta di firocco oftro,
.S.E. « - {tro firocco,
Quarta dell’ oftro firocco.
INTRODUCTION,
In THE OcEAN. In THe MepITERRANEAN6
Soutn. | Ostro«
S. by W. Quarta dell oftro garbino.
S.S.W. . Ottro .garbino.
Quarta di garbino oftro.
Garsino.
Quarta di garbino ponente,
Ponente garbino,
Quarta di ponente garbino.
PonENTE.
Quarta di ponente maeftro.
Ponente maettro,
Quarta di maeftro ponente.
MarstTro.
Quarta di maeftro tramontana,
Tramontana maeftro.
Quarta di tramontana maeftro.
TRAMONTANA.
Quarta di tramontana greco,
Tramontana greco,
Quarta di greco tramontana.
Greco.
Quarta di greco levante.
« Greco lovante.
. Quaria-di levante greed.
Each of thefe divifions containing -4, of the whole circumference, is
equal to 11°15’; therefore if a fhip fails N.E. by E., this rhumb being
the fifth from the N., is equal to five times 11° 15’, or 56° 15"; in like
manner all the other sniites are attained, only care muft be taken to
obferve if the dire€tion is eaft or weft of the meridian line. By reckon
ing either from the N. or §. point, the obtufe angles which the above
method introduces are avoided. §.W.by S. for example being the third
reckoning from S. towards W. correfponding to three times 11° 15/ or
33° 45’ from S. towards W. Notwithftanding the facility of this re-
duction, it would have been preferable to have divided each quadrant
contained by the cardinal points into go® each, according to the ufuab
divifion of the circle; and which method is fometimes employed by na-
vigators who aim at great precifion. In general it may be obferved that
divifions of any kind indicate the ftate of the fcience at the period: of
their eftablifiment. The firft mariners who ufed a compafs, no doubt
. thought they had done a great deal in dividing the circle into thirty-two
parts. They chofe this number probably from the facility with which
compaffes could be divided by continual fubdivifions, as they were at
that time conftructed by the pilots themfelves. The affemblage of
thefe divifions in their well known form is called the * mariner’s card”?
92. If the length and direction of a line commencing at a given point
be known, the point at which this line terminates is alfo eafily found.
If its length be not confiderable, the curvature of the earth may be
difregarded, and the meridians may be confidered as parallel, and the
rhumb lines as ftraight lines ; and to trace upon a plane furface the
tract defcribed in this.cafe, it will only require a line to be drawn, making
an angle with the meridian correfponding to the rhumb-line ; and to fet
off from the fcale a portion of this line equal to the diftance defcribed,
the ba thus rt is the point arrived at. Or it may be calculated,
by drawing a perpendicular from one extremity of the above line, tothe |
9 meridiag
ao
4
LAT
48%
2 2
< wag
geadaectee
Fahg giz" a3
ea
ohn
z
HE AZZzzzmaaazzZs
Zhi Zoe
5)
z
Ze" <
Fs
ference, is
umb being
fs in like
e taken to
By reckon-
the above
g the third
11° 15’ or
of this re-
h quadrant
the ufuak
red by na-
Terved that
period of
, no doubt
thirty-two
sith which
“y were at
mblage of
er’s card,”
iven point
ily found.
rth may be
el, and the
furface the
n, making
; and to fet
e defcribed,
calculated,
line, tothe .
meridiad
INTRODUCTION. ky
neridian pafling through the other extremity ; a right-angled triangle
will thus be formed, in which the diftance between the point of depar-
ture and the perpendicular intercepted on the meridian will give the dif-
ference of latitude in linear meafure, and which may afterwards be
reduced to degrees of the meridian, In the fame manner the perpen-
dicular ‘will correfpond with the difference of longitude of the two
points, and may be reduced by a fimilar procefs, But in making this
reduction it is advifable to calculate the value of the degree of longitude
for the mean latitude between the two points, in preference to that of
the point of departure. This operation is equivalent to dividing the
degree of meridian by the cofine of the latitude.
Another ‘queftion fometimes occurs, which is, when the direétion of
the traé&t is not known, but is to be determined by the latitude of the
‘point oe at. The conftruction of the chart confits in drawing the
two parallels, and with the point of departure as a centre, defcribing @
circle with, the radius equal to the tra run over, the point of interfece
tion of the circle and the fecond parallel is the point required. ;
To determine this point by calculation, a right-angled triangle is
formed, as in the laft example, the difference of latitude is to be cone
verted into linear meafure. ‘Chen one fide and the hypothenufe being
given, the other fide or perpendicular, which is the difference of longte
tude, may be found as above.
93. When the traét defcribed is of fuch a length that it becomes ne-
ceflary to attend to the curvature of the earth, the above problems (as
far as they»relate to the reduction of the eaft and weft lines into degrees
of longitude) require an operation which can only be commodioufly ef-
fected either on a reduced chart, or by a calculation, the aature of which
is now to be defcribed. Since the rhumb-lines interfect all the meridians
at the fame angle, let us imagine the tract defcribed to be divided into a
number of fmaller portions confidered as ftrait lines, then through the
extremities of thefe portions let meridians and parallels be drawn, each
of thefe portions will thus become the hypothenufe of a right-angled
triangle, whofe fides will be the difference of latitude and longitude exe
preffed in linear meafure. Let one of thefe be reprefented by the tri-
angle ABC (fig. 33.) 3 by trigonometry 4B : AC :: 1.c0s, BAC hence
AC = AB. cos. BAC, but the angle BAC being conftant for all the
‘ meridians interfected by the courfe, the difference of latitude proper for
each {mall triangle will hve the fame faétor, and the fum of all thefe
differences, or the total difference of latitude of the extreme points will
be equal to the fum of the portions, or the total length of the traét de-
{cribed, multiplied by the cofine of the angle which it makes with the
meridian,-as in the preceding cafe, The reduction into degrees is ef
feted in the fame manner,
The difference of longitude correfponding to BC may be found b
onan of the difference of latitude 4C. for ACs BC ++ 1: tang. BAC,
ence
BC= AC. tang. BAC.
But to know this difference in parts of the equator we muft refer te
what has been faid, (N° 48.) where it is fhewn that if Z‘reprefents the
datitude of the parallel pafling through the point 4. then
B: to the correfponding arc of the equator :: cos. Z: 1. and confee
, quently this arc is
equal 5, for BC fubhitute ite value found as above, and, The
: e Te diff : ce
ivi INTRODUCTION.
Ac
cos. Z, x tang. BAC. The fom therefote
of all thefe elementary differences of longitude will be obtained by
difference of longitude =
multiplying the fum of all the values of the variable faétor ole
AD 7
by the conftant faétor tang. BAC. © as
If thefe portions be taken fuch that the difference 4C may equal 1’
sth I
of the meridian or equator, then fince cont fecant Z. the above
expreffion becomes difference of longitude = 1' x fec. L. tang. BAC,
and the fum of the factors 1’ x fec. Z will be obtained by adding all
the fecants for each minute, for the whole are between the point of dee
parture and that of arrival.
This method, however, is only an approximation. Since even the
are of a minute is not rigoroufly a ftrait line, it may be made more
exact by taking the fecants for every roth, or even for every fingle fe-
cond; this procefs would be extremely tedious, but the integral
calculus gives the exaét expreffion for this fum to difference of latitude,
or intercepted arc of the meridian being fuppofed divided into an infinite
number of portions, It is in this manner that the values of all poffible
arcs have been calculated in the tables of meridional. parts mentioned
above.
The ratio of the degree of latitude to the degree of Iongitude being
as 1 to cos. latitude, to preferve this ratio when the meridians are fup-
pofed parallel, it is neceffary that, :
1’ of the merid.: 1’ of the parallel s; I: cos. lat. or 1’ of the
lof th Hel
pet Aiddha lide pcb alge 1’ of the par. X fec. L.
cos. L
~ Tf we calculate therefore from 0° the fucceffive minutes of the meri-
dian, taking thofe of the parallel equal to the equator, we hall be led
to each parallel by the fam of the fecants, calculated from minute to
minute, from o° to that parallel.
The exact method of eae i thefe tables is derived from the pre-
ceding confideration, as likewife the conftruétion of a traverfe upon a
reduced chart. But for the object I have in view the two following
rules are to be obferved.
For the firk queftion.—A fter having obtained, as in N°g2 the la-
titnde of the point of arrival, take in the table of meridional parts, the
difference of the numbers correfponding to the two latitudes, and mul-
tiply it by the tangent of the angle which the courfe or rhumb-line
makes with the meridian, and the refult will be the difference of longi-
tude expreffed in minutes of a degree.
Tn the fecond queftion, the angle which the rhumb-line makes with
the meridian is not given, but it may be deduced from the difference of
latitude reduced into leagues, and by the diftance defcribed ; with thefe
data the difference of longitude may be computed as above.
For example, fuppofe a veffel fets out from a point, fituated in lati-
tude 42° 3/ riorth,. and has defcribed 252 leagues N.E. by E. which is
equivalent to an angle of 56° 15’ with the meridian, it will be found that
the difference of latitude, reckoned on the line N. and S. is 140 leagues,
or. 7° towards the N. This difference being of the fame denomination,
“mult be added to the latitude of the point of departure, which gives
. 49° 3' for the latitude of the point of arrival. The
PT
mer, =
am therefore.
obtained by
: c
ator ———>
cos. L
may equal 1’
,. the above
tang. BAC.
by te all
» point o dee :
nce even the
» made Hi
ery fingle fe-
the tateent
se of latitude,
nto an infinite
of all poffible
ts mentioned
ngitude being
dians are fup-
or 1’ of the
of the meri-
e thall be led
om minute to
from the pre-
averfe upon a
wo following
°o2 the la-
it parts, the
Jes, and mul-
lor rhumb-line
ence of longi-
makes with
e difference of
pd ; with thefe
re.
ituated in lati-
° E. which is
be found that
8 140 leagues,
denomination,
» Which gives
The
- INTRODUCTION. Ixvii
‘The number is then to be taken from a table of meridional parts, core
trefponding to 49° 3’,
viz. - é 3386.7
then for 42° 3’ = 2785,8
the difference - = 600,9 the log. of which is to be
added to the tangent of the angle 56°15’, andthe refult, which anfwers
to 899’, or 14° 59’, as the differente of longitude towards the eaft,
. 94. Thefe rples being founded on ftrict geometrical principles would
be perfectly exact, if the data were fo likewife, but the direction of the
tract defcribed as given by the compafs, is fubje& to much uncertainty,
from caufes well known to mariners, fuch as the variation of the needle,
not always eafy to determine, and the drift or lee way which a fhip
makes by the action of a contrary or fide wind, which prevents it from
: following exatly the direGtion of the keel. ‘Thefe circumftances were
very imperfectly attended to by navigators till within the laft century.
The meafure of the diftance actually defcribed is alfo fubject to cone
fiderable uncertainty. “
The ancients often exprefs it by the numbers of days’ march or navi-
gation, and it is frequently a queftion of great difficulty to afcertain
the value of thefe quantities, which vary in a variety. of ways, and in
different ages, according to linear meafures in ufe at the time, to the
particular region, the manner of travelling, and the fize of the veffel,
By duly confidering all thefe circumftances we obtain a mean value,
which is to be depended on, in proportion to the number of faéts from
which it is derived. By attending to the forms of the various inflec«
tions of the roads in countries interfeCted by mountains, or by the courfe
of confiderable rivers, and likewife in level plains, general refults may
be obtained concerning the increafe of length in the roads, produced by
the interpofition of thefe obftacles, and by which the diftance mut
therefore be diminifhed, to obtain the refult on a {trait line.
To eftimate the diftance paffed over by a fhip, it is requifite to know
the effect of currents, which a& at the fame time on the veffel, and on
the piece of wood or /og which failors throw into the fea, confidering it
as a fixed point, and reckon how far they recede from it in a given time,
ufually half a minute a rope divided into knots, the diftance of which is
the hundred and twentieth part of a nautical mile, bécaufe half a minute
is the hundred and twentieth part of an hour, as ufed for this purpo!..
But if the veffel and the piece of wood are both aéted on by the fame
current, the diftance of the fhip from the log will only thew the relative
velocity of the fhip with regard to the current, and the velocity which
this current impreffes at the fame time on the veffel and the log, ftill ree
mains to be determined. It is partly from thence that the iidermed,
which is pften very confiderable, arjfes between the fituation of the
fhip, as eftimated by the pilot, and that where fhe really is. ,
From thence alfo it happens that the countries difcovered by Magellan,
ndana and Quiros, have been fo ill defined with regard to their lon-
ude, that it was with difficulty that they were again found. The
lomon iflands, remarkable from their extent, and the circumftantial
defcription of them left, us by Mendana who difcovered them, have
- varied in fituation almolt through the circumference of the globe. None
of the navigators who took this route after him, beginning with Quiros
who had accompanied him, and who followed him liunectoteig, Soule
find them. At length their exiftence. even became doubttul, but
M. Buache has at length. proved sa they were the Terra des / cides
2 ‘ a
Txviii INTRODUCTION.
and the adjacent iflandsdifcovered by M. M. de Bougainville and de‘Sur.
ville.
Their latitude was found to be corre&, but the currents that run
from eaft to weft in the Southern ocean had very much increafed the
diftance traverfed by Mendana, of which he was not confcious ; fo that
he imagined himfelf to be 1500 Spanifh leagnes, or 1700 French nautical
leagues from the coaft of Peru, when he was in reality 2400 leagues.
he voyages round the world, particularly thofe of late years, in
which the frequent obfervation of the longitude has enabled the navi-
gators to make a comparifon between feveral correét points of the courfe
# and thofe obtained by eftimation, have procured many very important
‘data concerning the velocity of currents in different parts of the ocean.
Thefe data are collected and carefully difcuffed in the Voyage dw
Capitaine Marchand, publifhed by M. de Fleurieu.
* The fame work contains an hydrographical nomenclature of feas,
gulphs, bays, &c. which it would be very convenient to adopt in geogra-
phy and in charts.
5. When a refult has been adopted for the value of the diftances in
a itrait line, the application of the fprocefs defcribed in No 92. will
almoft always fuffice to conftru& the geometrical plan, from the date
deduced from hiftorical or itinerary narrative ; for thefe diftances can
only be correét in proportion as they are fmall, in which cafe the pro-
jection (No.78.) may be neglected ; and when they are large their un-
certainty often Le a the reduétions which the laws of projection re-
uire, which therefore may be always omitted in the conftruGtion of this
{pecies of chart, recollecting, however, to take them into confideration
when thefe materials (No.81.) are applied to geographical charts, fubje&
to aftronomical projections and obfervations,
By the perufal of what has preceded, we may judge of the extent and:
variety of knowledge which a geographer fhould poflefs, of the courfe of
reading which he fhould affiduoufly purfue, the notes which he fhould
‘colleét, and moreover difcufs and clafs according to the rules of found
Griticifm. :
- J have been obliged in an Introdu@tion to eonfine myfelf to general
ideas on the fubje&, and to refer for particular examples to individual
‘treatifes. It isin the writings of Delifle, D’Anville, of Buache, and of
Goffelin, that the elements requifite for geographical combination muft
be fought.
' At the end of the voyage in the interior of Africa by Mungo Park,
we find notes by the learned Major Rennell, which prefent a colle&tion of
difcuffions, as well adapted to render intelligible the nature and object of
‘critical geography, as they are important in defining the ftate of our
knowledge of the interior of Africa. fy te
96. Having briefly expofed the principles of the conttru&tion of charts,
it remains to {peak of their ufes,
Of thefe the greater part are obvious, or only require the knowledge
ef a few marks eafily ght ph and which formerly were explained in
‘a reference placed at one fide of the map. '
Thefe figns mark the fituations of P aces, and are modified accordin
to the importance of the places, and the rank which they hold in’ the
civil, military, or ecclefiaftical government of the country. ;
The very fmall circle which is adjacent or attached to each of thefe
figns, muft always be obferved, becaufe it is the centre of this circle
“which marke/the pofition ef the place, ; ek Sidi
12 By
and de‘Sure
nts that run
ncreafed the
ous ; fo that
nch nautical
o leagues. —
te years, m
ed the navi-
of the courfe
‘y important
‘the ocean.
Voyage du
ure of feas,
pt in geogra-
> diftances in
No 92. will
om the data
liftances can
cafe the pro-
rge their un-
projection re-
ition of this
confideration
harts, fubje&
e extent and:
the courfe of
ch he fhould
les of found
f to general
to individual
uache, and of
bination muft
ungo Park,
colle&tion of
and object of
ftate of our
ion of charts,
e knowledge
explained in
ied according
y hold in'the
each of thefe
of this circle
By
INTRODUCTION, lnix
By taking its diftance from the neareft- parallel of latitude in the direc.
tion of the meridian, and meafuring this diftance on the graduated meri-
dian, we get the latitude of the place; itslongitude is obtained by the
meaiure of its diftance from the neareft meridian, taken in the dire&tion
of the parallel.
Thefe operations require a little attention in charts, wherethe meri-
dians are not parallel] ftrait lines.
The graduations marked on the edge of the chart being then oblique
with regard to the meridians and the parallels. the diftances taken as
defcribed and referred to thefe graduations, will not give exa&ly the
_ differences of latitude and longitude between the place required and the
neareft parallel or meridian.
In this cafe it is requifite, either to find the proportion between thefe
diftances, and thofe of the parallels and meridians on the map, or elfe to
draw the parallel and meridian which pafles through the place required,
and prolong them to the edges of the chart. ‘
This latter operation is very eafy on the conical projeétion relative
to the méridians which are {trait lines; and the parallels, which are
goncentric circles, may be alfo drawn by following the neareft with
one point of a compafs, whofe opening is equal to the difference
of latitude. It is not neceffary to obferve, that the diitance of the
two places ought to be meafured from the centre .of the little circle
which indicates their pofition; but it fhould be remarked, that when
the itinerary diftaace is required, and the roads are marked, the length
of thefe, lines ought to be meafured, by taking between the compaffes
every individual length of the parts included between the turns of the
road.
When the map admits of fufficient detail, the plan of the cities is
alittle extended, and the principal points of them are marked ;’ and it
muit then be indigated to which of thefe points the geographical pofi-
tion refers.
97. A fimple line marks the courfe of {mall rivers; and the two
banks are marked {eparate, when the fize of the river is fufficient to
admit of its being eftimated on the fcale uf the map, which happens
moft frequently at their mouths.
fhading ores of the fea are marked by a very fine line, edged with crofe
ing.
In Scie Mia charts thefe fhades are exterior with regard to the
land, and feem to indicate the undulations of the fea on the coats;
while in nautical charts the fhades are turned towards the land, as indi-
cating the fteepnefs of the coaits,
Navigable canals are reprefented by broken lines, to diftinguifh them
from natural water courfes, which are reprefented by undulating or
waved lines, ;
High roads are often diftinguifhed by fine double lines runnin
parallel to each other, and fometimes by. fingle lines, either contain
or Gotted, though thefe laft are ufually mieived to diftinguihh the
boundaries of different ftates, kingdoms, and provinces, the magnitude
and diftance of thefe points being varied accordingly.
Maps are rendered {till more intelligible by being coloured, In fome
countries, particularly in Germany, the fame colour is fpread over the
whole furface of the country which is to be diftinguifhed from the
others; this mode of colouring is perhaps lefs beautiful than that ufed
in France, but it has the advantage of rendering the fize of the country,
‘and form of its boundaries, more obvious,
£3 ~~ Th
kk , INTRODUCTION. :
In meafuring the extent of a country, two cafes are to be diftine
uifhed ; that in which the projection of the chart reprefents, by equal
urfaces, regions of equal extént upon the earth; in this cafe their area
is meafured like that of plane figures, by infcribing reCtangles on the
{pace contained within their bounderies; or by reducing them, at leaft
by approximation, to regular figures,
In the other cafe the fuperficies muft be divided into quadrilateral
figures, formed by the parallels and meridians taken fufficiently near to
each other, as has been defcribed in No. 50., fpeaking of the globe,
and the areas of thefe quadrilateral figures mutt be meafured according
to the procefs defcribed in that number.
98. Maps of the world may ferve forthe fame purpofe as general
_ charts; and thofe which are propery on the plane of the horizon
may befides be employed for the folution of the queftions defcribed in
Nos. 54. and 53. The difference of longitude contained between two
meridians which terminate in the fame parallel, being converted into
time at the rate of one hour to 15 degrees, gives the time which a celef-
tial body, correfponding to the propofed parallel, remains above the
horizon, and confequently gives the length of the day, when thofe
pero are taken, on which the fun travels from one, folftice to the
other.
If, for the plane of projection or horizon, a circle of illumination be
taken; that, for example, which correfponds to our fummer folftice,
and which is confounded with the horizon in the latitude 66° 32’, the
map which will -refult indicates the duration of the day for all the lati«
tudes, by converting into time the difference of longitude of the
hoa which terminate thefe parallels of latitude in each hemi-
phere.
In general we may, by projeétions on the different circles of the
{phere, refolve the fame queltions as by means of a globe; and for this
purpofe, charts have been drawn, to which, on account of their pro-
perties, the name of plani/pheres have been given. Father Chryfologue
of Goy has pean maps of the world on the horizon of Paris,
carefully conitruéted, conveniently niounted, and adapted to folve
many problems, both aftronomical and geographical, explained in a
pamphlet which accompanies the maps. The fame author has brought
this work to perteinny and has conftruéted new planifpheres on a
much larger {cale. . : ;
99. It is not fufficient to reprefent in charts the fituation of places,
the connections of countries, their extent, their divifions, and their
boundaries, circumftances which belong to mathematical and political
seography ; it is likewife required to know the form of the terreftrial
urface in thefe regions, that which is called the face of the country ;
that is to fay whether it is flat or mountainous, open or wooded, dry or
marfhy, Engravers have devifed'means, fometimes pi€turefque, fome-
times arbitrary, to exprefs upon trigonometrical furveys and topogra-
phical charts, thefe different circumftances which, combined with the
climate, and the meteorological phenomena of each country, conftitute
its phyfical Seography. Tt is fufficient to look at a map of this kind
to recollect the figns which are employed, and to obferve that the parte,
more or lefs ftrongly fhaded, reprefént declivities more or lefs fleep, oh
Whore the light lofes itfelf in proportion as they are more perpen-
icular,
The defigns of geographical charts have been very much behind
thofe for topographical purpofes, particularly with regard to the
i mountains ;
ee” ES ee ee ed Ne ne > en ay ee
pr eR anil) ee ae
_ ie
an em it oa Ot Pe i
be diftine
by equal
heir area
3 on the
>. at leaft
drilateral
y near to
le globe,
cording
3 general
horizon
cribed in
veen two
rted into
h a celef.
bove the
en thofe
e to the
nation be
r folftice,
32°, the
the lati.
» of the
sh hemi-
s of the
1 for this
heir proe
'yfologue
of Paris,
to folve
ned in a
brought
res On a
of places,
nd their
political
erreftrial
topograe
with the
onftitute
this kind
INTRODUCTION. Ixxi
mountains; becaufe the extent of the forefts being confiderably dimi-
nifhed in civilized countries, they have nearly difappeared from all
maps; but the inequalities of the ground, from the moft lofty chains
of mountains, to hills of the loweft order, fhould be exprefled in a
manner correfponding to all the other geographical circumf{tances, and
confequently Ahold have a place in the details proportionate to their
fize.
Peaks, or infulated points, in general, reft upon elevations more or
lefs confiderable; but the extent of which gives the outlines which
determine the form of the vallies, like the finuofities of the coafts, which
are, with regard to the fea, like the hollows of mountains.
It may be perceived by thefe remarks how vague and infignificant
are thofe infulated points which mark the mountains on the majority
of maps. We fee nothing but that the country they occupy is moun-
tainous, and it would be as well to write here are mountains 3 nothing
indicates the courfe of their chains, their various depreffions, and their
conneGtions either with each other, or with the iflands formed by the
fummits of the chains, of f{ubmarine mountains.
Philippe Buache is the firft who has attached himfelf efpecially to
phyfical geography, and who has given a precife idea of the branches
of the different chains of mountains on the earth connefted with the
inequalities of the bottom, of the depth of the fea, by means of /ound-
ings marked on nautical charts. e conftru€ted, with great care, a
globe, on which thefe forms were expreffed in relief, certainly in an
exaggerated manner with refpect to the diameter of the globe, becaufe,
without this, it is impoffible to render them perceptible. (N°42.) In
the charts which he compofed on this fubje@, he indieated the chains
of mountains by the outline of their fummits, to which he joined pro-
files or feGions, following given lines, on which he conftru€ted, from
a convenjent fcale, the heights of different points of the terreftrial
furface. He traced with particular care, in 1736, a fection following
the line which paffes from Cape Tagrin to Rio Grande, in which direc-
tion Africa and America approach the nearelt to each other, and which
pees near the iflands fituated in the middle of the great ocean which
feparates thefe two continents. |
Several authors, taking advantage of this original idea, and affifted by
new information acquired on this fubje&t, have publifhed maps of the ©
world, and charts which may be confulted with great propriety to
acquire a knowledge of the great inequalities of the terreftrial furtace ;
but precife means are yet wanting to reprefent them, and to render
their mip oer altitudes obvious.
100. Profiles leave nothing to be defired with refpec to precifian 5
but it is fcarcely poffible to multiply them fufficiently to give in every
Miretion the form of every part of the furface of the earth.
It is obvious, that if upon a nautical chart all the points where the
foundings are equal be conneéted by a line, the form of this line will
be that of a fection made at the bottom of the fea, by a horizontal
plane, deprefled below the furface of the fluid, by a quantity equal
_ to the number of the meafures or fathoms contained in the founding.
M, Duffain Triel has devifed a method, as ingenious as fatisfactory,
to reprefent geometrically the form of the furface of a country. This
method confit in tracing on:the map to be conftrugted lines which pafs
erough points at the fame level or altitude above the furface of the
fea; lines which would fucceflively become banks, if the fea pons,
vy
Ixxii INTRODUCTION.
by any caufe whatever, be raifed to that altitude: as the lines which
join the equal foundings would become banks, if it could be funk t¢
the number of fathoms expreffed in the foundings.
The heights of thefe lines, or -horizontal fections, are graduated
according to the fcale of the map, and the fteepnefs of their declivities.
Upon a projet of a map of France which he has publifhed, M. Duffain
Triel has drawn, in the level countries and near the fea-coaft, ‘a line
which paffes through tlie points which have ten toifes of altitude;
then that which pistes through twenty, and fo on fucceffively through
every ten toifes, Thefe lines, at firft thinly feattered, become clofer
as the country rifes more rapidly. Near infulated mountains thefe
_ dines, which are only marked at the diftances of 50 or 100 toifes,
approach cach other according as the inclinations are more or lefs
fteep ; this may be eafily conceived, by obferving that the lines traced
on the map are the projections of lines on the fame level, drawn on the
terreftrial {urface, and that they ought to be thicker on the mountains
for the fame reafon that the {paces are contracted on the edges of a
map projected orthographically. (N°65.)
It is alfo obvious that the P/ateaux are reiaarkable for the level
lines which furround them, and which mark the outline of their boun~
daries.
Finally, if we imagine other lines to interfe@& the horizontal lines at
right angles, thefe will be the /ines of the greateft inclination, or thofe
which follow the courfe of the waters running over the fides of the
mountains,
If horizontal lines were always traced on maps, befides the advan
po of adopting the methods of the geometry of planes and furfaces,
(defcriptive geometry) for the refolution of problems, on the inter-
feétion of horizontal and inclined -planes, very important in the con-
ftrudtion of roads and canals; they would be the means of colleéting
and bringing forward to the world a number of furveys and obferv-
ations made by civil and military engineers on the heights of moun-
tains, and the refults of which are buried with the government plans ;
and the advantage which might be derived from he would excite
travellers and men of {cience refiding in great cities to multiply, thofe
barometrical obfervations which give the refpective altitudes of the
places where they are made *,
It is not neceffary to have correfponding obfervations at every
ftation ; it is fufficient to procure fuch a number of obfervations as
will enable us to deduce the mean height of the barometer in that place
with certainty. The comparifon of the mean heights peculiar to the
different ftations enables us to afcertain the different altitudes of thefe
ftations. This method, which would not be fufficiently exaét if it
was requifite to compare ftations but little elevated above each ather,
and not far diftant, becomes very important with regard to points too
far diftant to admit of their being trigonometrical operations, — '
It has been objected, it is true, againft the conflruétion of horizontal
lines upon charts, that they render them confufed; but this incon-
venience, however ferious it may be, cannot be compared with the
utility of the objeéts defcribed above; befides, it may be partly
— by diftinguifhing with a particular colour the horizontal
nes. :
* The Abbe Clrippe furveyed, in this manner, in 1761, the road from Brett to
Toboltk, and gave the refults in the nargative of his journey. t hall
ines whick
e funk to
graduated
eclivities.
M. Duffain
aft, a line
' altitude 3
ly through
ome clofer
ains thefe
100 toifes,
ore or lefs
ines trace
awn on the
mountains
edges of a
r the level
their boun=
tal lines at
n, or thofe
ides of the
the advane
nd furfaces
the inter-
in the con-
colleGting
and obferv-
of moun-
nt plans 5
ci a
\a| thole
ies Yee the
at every
ations as
that place
iar to the
bs of thefe
xadt if it
ach ather,
horizontal
his incon-
with the
be partly
horizontal
m Brett to
I fall
points too
INTRODUCTION. xsi
_ ¥ hall obferve on this fubject, that even topographical obje€ts, where
they are ftrongly expreffed by the graver, do not allow of many places
being defignated on one map, and compel us to adopt a larger {cale.
However, if it cannot be etherwife contrived, each country may be re-
prefented by two charts on the fame plan; one containing the detail of
he places: the other, only including the moft remarkable points, might
contain the horizontal lines.
rot. When the laft mentioned charts cannot be obtained, it is poffible,
by an examination ot the courfe of the water and its branches, to deduce
fome general indications of the form of the ground in the different coun-
tries of the globe.
The water which falls from the fides of mountains and hills, col-
le&ting itfelf in torrents:and rivers, either immediately, or after having
penetrated into the interior of the earth, as far as the clayey ftratum
which ftops its progrefs, traces upon the terreftrial furface the lines of
the greateft inclination, which approach nearer to the level of the fea in
roportion as the courfe of the water is prolonged.
The cotirfe of the princip~! rivers on a map, indicates the low part of
the moit confiderable vallies, Thefe yallies are bounded by high lands,
which are again interf{e€ted by fecondary vallies, through which run thofe
yivers which empty themfelves into the firft.
In the fame manner other {maller vallies are diftinguifhed by ftill lefs
confiderable rivers ; fo that the whole courfe of water forms a fort of
net-work, of which the threads interfect at very obtufe angles.
If we afcend as far as the fource of the largeft riyers, and to that
of their fecondary riyers which join them near their fource, we hall
generally arrive at the moft elevated points. We may deduce, therefore,
with a very few exceptions, the fteepnefs of a declivity from the greater
or lefs degree of curvature in the Bed of the river; but that which is
more particularly worthy of attention, are thofs parts where the water
divides itfelfinto oppofite direCtions, and runs into different feas or lakes,
It is there that the points of divifion are found, the determination of which
is the principal bafis of the conftruétion of navigable canals, intended to
conuect one fea with another. It was by difcovering with great fagas
city, by the infpection only of the form of the Black Mountain, the point
of feparation of its ftreams towards the ocean and towards the Mediter~
ranean, that Francis Andreofly conceived the plan and the poffibility of
executing a canal towards the fouth, the fineft work of this defcription
that has ever been attempted. His erst grandfon, Andreoffy, the
yeh of artillery, was the firft to develope, in his interefting hiftory of
the fame canal, the confiderations which ought to ferve as a guide, ina
furvey intended to difcover the points of feparation and re-union of the
ftreams intended to fill a canal,
Two engineers of bridges and high roads, M. Dupuy and M. Briffon,
have alfo, in a very ingenious manner, referred the shacntare: indicative
of thefe circumftances, to the forms of geometrical furfaces. Their
- memoir, re to the Inititute, will no doubt be very foon printed,
102. To particularize the fummary ideas which I have juft piefented,
I hall now point out their application.
At the firft glauce over a geneval map of Afia, it muft be obferved
that the great rivers which terminate in the Indian, the Chinefe, and the
Northern feas, rife in Thibet and to the north of the country of the
Eleutheri, from which it appears that thefe countries are furrounded
with very high mountains, and here is found the higheft plain in Afia,
which is the bafe of thele mountains, From this plain three deolivities
are
INTRODUCTION.
are directed towards each-of the above-mentioned feas; thefe declivities
are interfeéted by the branches of the mountains in which the auxiliary
ftreams of thefe rivers have their fource.
Even if the mountains of Kamenoipayas, which feparate Ruffia in
‘Europe from Ruffia in Afia, were not marked upon the map, the almoft
oppolite diretion of the Oby and. Peezara, and that of the rivers which
Sil into the Northern Ocean to the weft of the Strait of Waygats, and
§nto the White Sea, would indicate them.
In the fame manner, we obferve an elevated plain between the Black
fea, the Cafpian, the Mediterranean, and the Perfian gulf. The Cafpian
fea, the lake of Aral in Afia, and that lake where the Niger lofes itfelf
in Africa, are, on the iy bated the low parts where thofe declivities
ineet on which the rivers flow that defcend along their fides.
103- Having explained the aftronomical methods for the determi-
mation of places diftant from each other, and the means of delineating
thefe places, either by the conftruction of globes or maps, and alfo
fhewn how thefe maps fhould be filled up, by the combination of trigo-
nometrical plans, with the narratives of travellers or hiftorians, the ufe
that may be rade of thefe various reprefentations, and the conclufions
that may be drawn from them relative to the inequalities of the furface
of the earth, I have fulfilled the objeé&t which I propofed to myfelf in
this Introduction. In only contains, in faét, the rudiments of the ime
ortant fubje&ts whichi I have treated ; but it is the firft time that they
ave been colleéted and methodically arranged. I therefore flatter
myfelf that I have fome claim to the perry, ced of the reader, who
being put into the proper rqad to purfue this udy, cannot fail of finding
. fources from which he may obtain more detailed information, The .
original works are well known ; the improvement which geography has
received from the meafure of the are of the meridian ; from the great
military operations, and from the recent labours of government, are con-
poet improving thefe methods, and obtaining more fatisfagtory ree
fults *.
® The topographical and military memorial, abvidged for the war department, prefents
a methodical expofition, There is aifo in Germany @ Joursal devoted to geography,
conducted by M. de Zach.
TABLES
declivities
e auxiliary
» Roffia in
the almoft
vers which
lygats, and
the Black
he Cafpian
lofes itfelf
- declivities
1e determi-
delineating
3 and alfo
n of trigoe
ns, the ufe
conclufions
the furface
o myfelf in.
of the ime
e that they
fore flatter
eader, who
l of finding
tion, The .
graphy has
n the great
nt, are con-
factory ree
ent, prefente
© peography,
ABLES
Lat. of the
middle Point
or}
&
|
|
|
degrees calcula
© | 362909
I | 362910
2 | 362913
3 | 362918
4 | 362925
5 | 362934
G | 362945
7 | 362958
B | 362973
9 | 362989
10 | 363007
IL | 363027
12 | 363049
13 | 363073
14 | 363094
Ise | 363127
16 | 363157 |
17 | 363189
18 363223
19 | 36325
20 | 363295
ax | 363333
22 | 363370
23 | 363410
24 | 30345!
25 | 363494
26 363538
27 | 363583
2 363629
29 | 363676
° 63724
TABLES
INTRODUCTION,
RELATING TO THE
TABLE, I.
2:
6
a, On
ow
aS
&
Englith
Fe st.
363724
363773
363823
363874
Lat. of the
middle Point.
365368
365416
365463
365509
395554
365598
365641
365682
365722
365761
355799
365836
365871
365904
355935
| 365965
355993
366019
366043
366065
366084
366102
366118
3661
366146
366159
ta
6175
$66180
366183
66184
In the above Table, the ellipticity is fuppofed yy, the de
equator, and at 45° taken from actual meafurement ; and the other
MAGNITUDE AND FIGURE OF THE EARTH.
A Table of the Meridional Degrees of the Terreftrial Spheroid caleus
lated to every Degree of Latitude.
at the
according to the rules explained in the text.
lxxvi. INTRODUCTION.
TABLE IL
A Table of Perpendicular Degrees on the Spheroid calculated to every’
Degree of the Meridian in Englith Feet, (Ellipticity = ;4,).
‘3
&
94
‘Perp. ‘veg. | Diff. | Lat. | Perp. Deg. | Diff | Lat. | Perp. Dee. |.
eenicacatiiemmadl es: CE | eee Ba
30 | 365360 60 | 365920
31 | 365377 61 | 365937
32 | 365395 62 | 365953
33 | 365413 63 |' 365969
34 | 365438 64 | 365984
35 | 365449 65 | 365998
36 | 365468 366013
37 | 365487 366023
365506 366035
365525 | 1 366047
365544 |, 366058
365563 366069
365582 366079
365601 366089
365620 366099
365640 366108
365660 366117
365679 366126 |
365698 3661 34
365211 365717 366141
365222 365736 366148
365233 365755 366154
365245 365774 366159
365257 365793 366164
365269 365812 366168
365282 365831 366172
365296 | ,. 365849 | , 366176
395311 | 16 365867 366179
355327 | 16 365885 966181
395343 leo 365903 366183
65360 365920 366184
365094
365095
_ 365097
365099
365102
365106
365110
305135
365120
365125,
365131
365138
365146
365156
365163
365172
365181
365191
365201
wo eN AM Pw PD & O
I
2
2
3
4
4
5
5
5
6
7
8
8
9
9
9
°
-_- = ww
~ =-= O O
- ese BOP Fr $e uNunawns wow wow
- se HNWOP AP HUYUNuwU Aas 3 Ow wo Ww
Table of the Degrees of Longitude on the Spheroid ; to every Degree
INTRODUCTION.
TABLE Ill.
Ixxvit
of Latitude, cqmputed in Fathoms, the Ellipticity being fuppofed ,!,,
Oo om TI Am bw WN
a
-eonns
ad Degrees
Lat. jof Longi-] Diff. | pig] Lat. jof Longi-
; tude. tude.
Degrees
Diff, | 24) Lat, lof Logie
tude,
Degrees
Perce | erent eae | RI See |
Fathoms. Fathoms.
60849. 30493
60840 29568
60812 28634
60766 27691
60702 26739
60619 25778
60518 24810
60899 23 8 35
60261 22852
Go105 21863
5993! 20866
59738 19863
59527 18854
59299 17839 |
59°53 16818 |
58789 15792
58507 14762
58207 13727
57890 12687
57554 11643
57209 10596
56828 9546
56438 8493
§6031 7437
55608 6379
55169 $319
54734 4257
54243 3194].
53756 2130
5325 1065
4 ad
Dif. | pig:
o- we ww Se Oe rene uUaADA AWTara ws wD OD OEwo © ©
INTRODUCTION.
TABLE IV.
Table of Degrees of Longitude on the Sphere to every Degree of
Latitude.
‘ | ad i ‘ ad =
Lat. | Fathoms.| Diff. Dif Lat. |Fathoms.| Diff. Dif. Lat. | Fathoms.
ED | OES
ie
sour leo
49770 | 616
49154 60,
48523 | 646
47978 | 660
| hee 675
59835 | 49543 | Gap
59642 45855 Seg
59430 45152 | 016
$9201} 448) °| 43 144430,
58953 | 26¢
58688 | 35,
58404 | 50
met
3371,
ST447 | 9 04
57093 | an;
56722
8 | 60166
| Gooro
388 | |
56334 406
55928 | 424
55505
55065
54609
54136
53546 |
53140
2618
INTRODUCTION.
TABLE V.
Table of Decimal Degrees of Longitude on a Sphere.
Latitude Latitude Latitude
poh oe hid me stag in Decimal
Kiliometres, | Kiliometres,
° 100,000 34 86,074
£ 99,988 35 _ 85,264
2 99.95% 36 845433 45399
3 99:889 | 37 83,581 43,994
4 99:803 38 82,708 42,578
5 99692 39 81,815 41,758
6 99,556 40° 80,902 30.115
7 999396 4t 79,968 — 38,268
8 99.211 42 792015 36,812
9 99,002 43 78,043 35347
10 98,769 44 77:51 33,874
1 98,511 45 76,040 32,392
12 98,229 46 75,012 30,902
13 97:922 ‘| 47 739963 29,404.
14 971592 48 72,897 27,899
15 979237 49 71,813 26,387
16 96,858 50 70,711 24,969
17 96456 5t 69,591 23,344
18 96,029" 52 68,455 21,814
19 95:579 53 67,301 20,279
20° 951106 54 66,134 18}738
ai 94608 55 641945 179193
22 941588 56 635742 15,643
23 94,544 57 62,524 14,090
24 92,978 58 61,298 12,533
25 92,388 59 69,042 10,973
26 915775 60 58,778 Qrqtt
27 91,140 61 579500 7,846
28 90,483 62 56,208 6,279
29 89,803 63 54:902 4y712
30 89,101 64 531583 3s14t
gt 88,377 65 . $2,250 1,572
; 32 | 87,632 | 66 ™} gorpog. 0,000
86,863 491546
INTRODUCTION.
TABLE VI.
- OF Decimal Degices of Latitude, the Ellipticity being fuppofed ,*,7
Degrees of Differ.| Lat. | Destees of iffor.
: Degrees of
"Ff Latitude. oe) Latitude, Di
Lat.
Latitude,
99552+5
99552-9
99553.8
99555.1
99556.9
99559:
99802.2 “ 100269 o
99849 a 100280.2
¥e . 13.1. 100291.1
oe 13 2 100301.7
100312.0
99867.5
13-4 100322.0
13.5 f— —
100331.7
100341.
100350.1
100358.8
100367.2
13.6
13)?
13.8
13.9
13.9
100375.1
Ph 100382.7
14.1 100389.9
14.1 100396.8
50 | 100006.2 : 1004.03 .2
—————| 1401 —
Desc 14.1 100409.5
sane 14.0 I 0414-9
4-4 14.0 100420 1
90002 435 13.9 100424.9
100076.3 100429.3
——|139 | ccna |eainnomen
1000902 10043 3.2
100103.9 tne 160436.8
100117.6 13.6 1004 39.9
JOOL3I 2 13 4 1004.42.5
100144.6 1004447
eorenpemenrer | 559 tebe eats
100157.9 13.1 100446.5
ere 13.0 py)
100184.0 | 15°9 100448.7
. | 1001968 13,8 1004.49.2
997419 100209.4
Fahne — 12-3
997535 ; 100841,7 12.2
997553 : 1002339 12.0
99777:4 1 5.2 ° 100245+9 11.7
99789-7 | 55. 100257+5 1165
99802.2 100269.0
| 7 | 99564.7
; 8 | 9956%.2
9 | 995721
PIO | 99576.4
Metres. ‘ G. : Metres, M. 3. Metres.
CO w
t | 99581. 2
99580. 3
99591.8
99597:8
99604.2
99610.9
99618.0 |
99625-4
99633.4
99641.6
‘O°D 5D: 00 Omar Oy. Gomtnts SS
WAWO A wnOhnw ws PO AH DOA Fe
So
ee ee | ae
sa cnr WN
INTRODUCTION.
TABLE VIt.
ofed 38° ;
: : Of decimal Degrees of Longitude, the Ellipticity being fuppofed ;+,.
of {, : ,
Pe zat. | Desreesof | niger. | rac, | Dezres of ier, [tae | DEee® | iter
,0 a “GC. | Metres. Moree Metres. M.
11.2 © | Toor49. 435 | 85461.0 45574.8
ae 10.9 I Ha Se pe 36 | 84631.4 44165.9 T4080
1106 2 | 100100.3 pe 37 | 83780.6 42746.0 Ny 2-9
7) 10.3 3 | 100038.9 | got | 38 | 8290047 4131563 | 48° 7
© | 10,0 41 99953.0 Re 39 | 82018.1 3987404 ae
ie gi 5 | 99842.5 ‘S| 40 | 81106.2 38423.4.) 49 '°°
cde enian —— 1460.6
17
1 9-4 6 | 99707.6 41 | 80174.1
sr} 9° 7 | 995482 | p34 | 42 | 7929263 ee
33 | 87 8 | 993643 | 258.5 | 43 | 78250.9 4 ig
dpi 8.4 91 99156.2 pee’ 44 | 77260.1 c pA
ah 10 | 98923.6 | -37°" | 45 | 76250.1 5 | 1495-4
= 79 -—| 256.8 1508.1
| 7:6 11 | 98666.8 46 | 75221.3
PT | a2 12 98385.8 phe 47 | 74173.8 11O8
a 6-9 13 | 98080.6 prs 3 48 | 73108.0 reas
: , : : 2024. ‘
g.2| 4 14 | 977513 | 358.2 : tial 1530.5
si 1536.4
D3) 5.6 69802.6
+91 2 68665.8: 154159
wie’. 67512.0 3 oad .
+9) ag 66341-3 17268.6 sese
D3 65154.2 15712,6 | '59>°
ha 3:9 pogeeoripee —| 1560.0
; 6 3950.9 14152.6 | |
b.S ne 62731.7 “bi ee 15636
D9) 3.6 61496.8 11032.3 ite 7
3) 3.2 60246.7 | 122 -s1 94] 9452.9 | 79.9'4
7 1.81 58981.5 : 7881.0 571.9
; 15738
31 143 6307.2
7-8 0.9 4731.8 | 1575-4
BT og 4155.7 1576.1
b.2 : 1577.9
‘INTRODUCTION.
NEW FRENCH MEASURES.
Englith tnches,
993937
93937t
32937190
-» 39937100
. 393971000
= nd . 3937210000
- Chiliometre §9971,00000
Myriometre -'393710,00000
A. Metreis:t,09364 yards, or nearly one yard i nail, or 443,2959 lines
_ Fr.s or 5513074 toiles.
Decametre is 10 yards, 2 fect, 9,7: inches.
A Hecatomietre is 109 yards, 1 foot, ¥ inch,
A Chiliometre 4 furlongs, 213 yards, 1 foot, f inch. igs
A Micrometre,.6 miles,.1 furlong, 156 yards, o feet, 6 inches, _ ‘
Eight Chiliometres are nearly five- miles.
As inch is ,o254 miles, 2441 inches, 62 metres, 1000 feet, nearly $5
metres.
An Are, a fquare deeametre, is 3,95. perches, E.. i
A sepa 2-acres, 1 rood) 35,4 perches,
Millimetre -
Centimetre 3
Dicimetre °
Metre - 4,28
Decametre
e
e
oe
os
Millilitre over ee
Centilitre - .
Decilitre:
Litre, a eubie Decimetre
Decalitre e é
. Heeatolitre -
_Chiliolitre s -
Myriolitre -
A Litre is nearly 2§ wine ali ; #4 Decilitres are nearly three wine
ints ; a Chiliolitre is 1 tun, 12,75. wine gallons.
A Deciftre for firewood is 35317 cubic feet E.
A Stere, a cubic meafure.
610280,00000
A TABLE
1959 lines:
A
‘TABLE
OF THE
LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES
OF THE
PRINCIPAL PLACES ON THE EARTH'S SURFACE
RS DS ee er ee ee Le ee»
me I ER SR ET AP A FP PO _ BIR, LI, Ss Te __
TABLE
LATITUDES and LONGITUDES
OF TRE
PRINCIPAL PJ-ACES ON THE EARTH'S SURFACE. ©
—————————
A
Sea or
Country.
Names of Plates.
‘ Longitude.
(°) ”
sO 7 4Ni 1 49 43E
160 27 10N| 22 13 30 E
5 22 ON! 95 34 OF
Afia |N, Holland [43 23 © 8iz47 30 OE
Afia |Pac. Ocean {17 5 ‘35 Siz44 17 45W}
Eur, |France 43 38 43Ni 3 27-55 E
44 12 22N/. 0 36 20E
49 56 ON| 6 46 OW
126.43 ON] 76 44 OF
43°41 52N| 455 52 E
43 3x 48Ni 5 26 32 E
43 55 ON) 2 8 18E
35 11 25 Ni 37 30 OF
36 35 a7Ni 3635 OF
31 11 28N/ 30 10 22 E
36 49 30N] 2 12 49 E
47 24 SAN] 0 59 7W
Afia |Pac. Ocean {16 -9 30 8/168 12 30 Elz
Eur. |France 49 53 43Ni 217 56E
52 21 SON) 4 51 30E
=
4
—
=
ouncoows ano >
wa wn
Bak vnbS6 8 &v
eS hoars
tet S bos te es
=
pp y
i)
DWHAAnh DASA | BN
SG 000 GS 6060
He OOD HD I.Go AD
Stes tes tt tes te ts Fs tet Sts
an
oonwmOOnrvvond
we
ti bs
a» oO
Ems
EA
&
[~~]
ivy
=
vA
°
7)
bee
wm
ti
e
°
pad
S da Sa
38 39 ON| 27 12 r5Wi tt 48
Pac. Ocean |20 16 30 Sir74 30 goWi1r 38
. (Staten Land|54 46 45 S
3 394 43N) 7 7 20E} 0 28
17 430N| 62 9 oWl4 83
113 15 N} 4 22.45 E) 017 3
« |Netherlands|sr 33 35. N| 4 24 15 E| 0 17. 37
) |Pac. Ocean {16 46 15 8/168 37 30 Ejrz 13 50 E
36. 2 ON] 38 50 OE! 2 35 20E
»
Eon
3
ts
a Ov
tai
ts
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places. ’
Longitude.
Sea or ral
Names of Places. Cont, Country. Latitude. In Degrees.
m. |Peru
Eur. |France
* 1Eur, |France
TAF. |S. At. Ocean
Eur, | Turkey
Eur. |France
*OdO0ae >
7 ee e)
arly A
WSR RAW mw Coma ~
co)
Sms Ses Se
POH Was
eoses SO ans. =
i 44 55 10N
Aurora (Ifle) Afia |Pac. Ocean jrs5 8 ON|168 17 OF}1
-On
Autun
Auxerre
Auxonne
Avignon Eur. |France .
Avranches Eur, France
foo MoM ome)
wWSHES
BD mG ot
or Am ;
ti tits | ts
P
NBabelmandel Straits
Babylon (Ancient)
Bagdad
Balafore 21 20
Ballabea (Ifle) N. a 20 9
Banguey y, (Peak)
Barbstoes- B. Town
Barbas (Cspe)
Saojf~ostd
$355
=
Barcelena
/Barnevelt’s (Ife) Am.
St. Bartholomew's (Ifle)|Afi
Bafil Eur.
=P niadh - n
Oe GG Ch BW COW Ff HH VOW" SO
QOAQAQR, PARAARAAAAAA.D NR. =
Blanco (Cape)
srg (Cape)
One
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places,
h / ae
160 $2 54 30 N\t56 37 30 Ejzo 26
y 18 56 40 N| 72 38 OE] 4 50 32
3 86 6 ON 22 47 15Wi tr 3m 9
3 42 22 12 Ni 70 59 OW] 4 43 56
y 34 0 OSit5zr ar OE|to § 244 E
3 Afia |N. Caledoniai2z2 26 40 Sit67 316 4s Eltr 9 7 Ej:
1 » |Ind,Ocean (20 51 43 S| 55 30 OE] 3 42 OF
2 France 4450 14N] 0 34 14W|O 2197
y 3 3
EB} 8 3
E §
0 Hi Bridge Town
E HSt. Brieux
E i Brighton Start-Houfe
vi" Briftol (Cape) Sandw. Landis59 2 30 S
Is Brabant 5° 50 SON
Am, [Brafil 34 35 26S
Eur. |Wallachia |44 26 45 N
: Buller (Cape) Am. |5. Georgia |§3 58 30 S
Burgeo (Ifle) Am. |Newfoundl |47 36 20 N
E
V
enemas o25 sW)
E o 1: 28W
3262, E}0 5 45E
i % 5 49E
Calais rst 2£Elo 7 248
Calao 53 S| 76 58 OW! Ss 7 5aW
Calcutta (F.Will.) 5 $3 §8E
Calmar azrasEi xr § a7E
O12 S4E
3 30
© 10 England 12 35N) © 413 E/0 O17E
inde Am. |N. England ‘ ow ¢ 44 16W
130 t$ 38 asW)t 2 35W
¥ 18 35 Ni a5 18 OE| xr 4r 12 E
a 30 Candlemas Ifles 1Q 0 S| a7 13 OW! 1 48 ma
Canfo oe 20 79Ni 60 55 oWl 4 3 40W
Canterbury Cathedral |Eur. t 453E\/0 419E
Canton Afia |China a 30K) 7 33 10 E
26 40 Sia08 54 20Wi13 55 57W
1s ON) 9.50 OW] 0 39 20W
N. Caledoniajao 30 © 8i164 56 OF 10 59
°
9 56 ON 98 Oo 5 4
t
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
4 Me: Sea or
, Names of Places, | Country,
Afia |Siberia
Eur. |Germany
Eur. {France
St. Catherine’s (Ie) {Am.|Atl Ocean |27 35 © S} 49 17
‘Cavan ; Eur. {Ireland 54 51 4tN| 7 23
Cayenne .|Ifle Cayenne] 4 56 15 Ni 52 15
Ceylon, S. Point India 5 47 ON 8r
HCette France 43 23 SEN] 3 42
Owu%wW OW O OWNO
&
SRPUONWOAKA ~
sa pNDD
1Challon France
iChalons France
iChandernagor
0. Charlotte Sound
1%; Charlotte’sCape |Am.-S. Georgia |
HChariton Ifle Am. |Hudf. Bay :
iC France
Cherbourg France 49 38 31 Ni 1 37 18Wlo 6 29W! 7 30
}Chriftmas Sound T. del Fuegols5 21 57 S| 7O 2 soW} 4 40 11rW/ 2 3018
St. Chriftopher’s (Ifle) |Am. |Carib. Sea [17 15 ON] 62 43 OW
iChurchill River Am. |Hudf, Bay |58 47 32 Ni 94 7 30W
jCivita Vecchia Eur. |[taly
Clerke’s Ifles Am. /Atl, Ocean |s§ 5 30 S] 34 42 OW
45 4644N) 3 5 2E
3 33 ON 75 45 OF
49 444
Eur. |Germany {50 5§ 22
Eur. |France 49 24 S9N| 249 4rE
Am. Chili 36 42 53 S| 72 40 OW
» »
HNO
wn
°o
Conflantinople Eur. |Turkey 4t 12a7N
Cooper's Ifle Am. |Atl Ocean [54 57 08
Copenhagen Eur. (Denmark {55 4z 4N
uimbo Am. |Chili 29 §2 OS] 9
Eur. |freland 5st 53 54N
}Corvo Eur. |Azores 39 42 ON
iCouvtances Eur. |France 49 250N
iCowes Weft, Fort —|Eur. |Ifle of Wight|s0 46 18 N|
|Cracow Eur. |Poland 49 59 20N
Cremfmunfter Eur. |Germany {48 3 29N
|Croific Eur. |Irance
Curnmin (Ifle) Afia |Pae. Ocean
[Cyprus 3 Afia (Syria
|
Bi Dantzic Eur. (Poland
|Dardanelle’s Straits Eur. | 'urkey
. {Caffrees
Ji Eur. France
Deal Caftle Eur.
St. Dennis Af.
INTRODUCTION. Ixxxix.,
\The Latitudes and: Longitudes of Places.
Sea or
Country. Latitude.
Names of Places. |Cont.
|
| °o 7 u“
Diego (Cape) T.d. Fuego |g4 33 ©
Dieppe 429 Eo 4 18 Elro 30
Dijon 1 50E/020 7E
Dillingen 10
|Difappointm. (Cape) |Am. |S i 36
Diffeada (Cape) T.d. 14
Dol
Domingo Mole ' 73
Dominique (Ifle) B 61
Dorchefter Church
18 30K 0 5§ 14Eltr 30
}0 5 20E
© 41 a8E
(, © 24 26W] 9 15
3 56E) 9 45
°
9°
oO:
eo
Eur, |England 11g oW
Afia |N. Zealand {45 47 27 8166 18 g Ejtr 5 13 Ejto 57
116 20W'o 5 sWi9 45
Eaoowe (Tile) Afia |Pac. Ocean [at 24 © S}r74 30 OWjtzr 38 OW, 2 ©
Eafter Ifand Pac.Qcean {47 6 39 Sitog 46 45W| 7 19 7Wi| 4 30
Edinburgh Scotland 57Ni 3 12. 15W| © 12 49WI § 30
Edyftone Ww 24W
Elfinore } 20
Embden 44
Embrun ; 6
Enatum (Ife) Pac, Ocean
Endeavour River N. Holland
Englith Road
Erramanga (Ifle) é 17
Erzerum SE| 3 14
Euttachia (Town) f 4 12
Evout’s Ifes . .F 2¢ | 427 [
Evereus Oo 4;
Exeter Oo 14
Falmouth England
Falfe (Cape) Caffres
Falfe Bay Caffres
Farewell (Cape) Greenland
Farewell (Cape) N. Zealand
Fayal Town sur. |Azores 38 32 20N) 28
Ferdinand Noronha Brazil 3 §6 20 S| 32 33
Ferrara Eur, |l!taly 44 49 SON] Bt 3
Ferro Ifle (Town) At. )Canaries 47:47 2ON/] 17 45 SOW
Finiterre (Cape) Eur. [Soain 44 $4 ON) 917 10W
Flamborough Head = (Eur, [England 54 8 ONI or oF
eee
OoOOnmn OvVn KH DH HO
.
h.
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Sea or
- Names of Places. |Cont, Country.
Eur.
Eur.
Eur.
Af.
Florence
Flores
St. Flour
Fortaventure (W.Pt.)
Foul Point Af.
France (Ifle of) Af.
Francfort (on the Ma.)'Eur.
Francois (Cape) Am.
} Old Cape Francois Am.
Frawenburgh Eur.
Italy
Azores
France
Canaries
‘|Madagafear
Ind. Ocean
Germany
Hifpaniola
Hifpanivla:
Pruffia
Frejus . |France
Frekel (Cape)
Friefland’s Peak
Fronfac (Strait)
Fuego (Ifle)
Funchal
Furneaux Ifland
Af.
Afia Pac. Ocean
France
Ata |N. Guinea
Eur. [Italy
Eur, Savoy
Eur. jlealy
Eur, | Azores
Am. |Bermudas
1Afia {India
| Afia |N. Britain
Am. |S. Georgia
Eur.
Eur.
Gap Eur.
Gabey
Genes
Geneva
Genoa
St. George (Ifle)
St. George (‘lown)
St. George (Fort)
St. Georg: (Cape)
George (Cape)
Flanders
Spain
Ghent
Gibraltar
Gilbert’s Iile
Eur. ‘Scotland
Afia j!ndia
Afia
Af. |Canuaries
Af. iCaftres
Af. |Caftres
Af. JAtl Ocean
Gottenburgh Eur.
Gottingen (Obforv.) Bur.
Granville | Cur.
Graile Eur.
sratiola Eur.
Grats Eur.
Gravelines Eur. |Flanders
Greenwich (Obfer.) Eur. |England
1! Greofnoble Eur. |France
Gryphifwald
Gomera (Ifle)
Good Hope (Ifle)
Good Hope (‘Tewn)
Goree (Tile)
Sweden
Germany
France
Frauce
Azores
Germany
CGrermany
Guadaloupe
Guaiaquil
Peru
Au. |T. del Fuegois5 13. © S} 71
Indian Oceanj13 55 ONI/t20 2 OF
Carilt, Sea
Longitude
Latitude. | 1, Degrees. | In Time.
43 46 30N
39 34 ON
45 1 55N
28 4 ON
17 40148
Hae OWW OO
17 I
G
44 33
° 6
44 25
46 12
44 25
38.39
32.45
o Sit43. 6 40W
SohkFsS
Bab ot tt ot -
foo
min Ss
InunkrkHM OC 0 80
453 I
54.17 05
5t 3 ON! 343 45 FE} 0 14 55E
36 6 30N| 5 22 OW] O
6 4sW
55 §1 32N| 415 OW
1g 31 ON| 73 45 OF
28 5 40Ni 17 8 oW
3429 © S| 18 23 15 E
33 5§ 42 S| 18 23 15 E
14 49 ION) 17 25 OW
umm HH OOS OD
57 42 ON) rt 38 45 E
5t 31 §4N) 9 53 OF
48 50 16N] 1 36 rsW
43 39 1I9N] 6.55 gE
39 2 ON| 27 58 OW
47 4 ON) 15 as as F
59 59 4Ni 2 7 gak
lst 28 4ON| 0 0 O
\45 11 42N] § 43 34E| 0 22 54
54 4 25N) 13 38 30) 0 54 34
ocoomwnmOQCco°o
15 59 3ON) 61 48 15W| 4 7 13W
211 ar S| 84 1 30W! 5 24 46W
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitude and Longitude of Places.
Sea or ' Longitude. te
Names of Places. |Cont. Country. Latitude. In Degrees, | In Time. H.W.
a FEEL EAETERELELIS | RTE Ned seamen a
or nw }orfw |hrea h J
Gurief Afia |Siberia 47 7 INI 5: 56 OE} 3 27 44E
Guernfey Eur. |Brit.Chan. [49 30 ON] 247 OWiomw 8Wl
J H .
Hague Eur. [Netherlands |52 4 10N| 417 30E] 0 17 10 E| 8 15
Hamburgh Eur. |Netherlands |53 33 3.N| 10 4 11 E] 0 39 20E| 6 o
Hane-lip (Cape) Af. |Caffres 34 16 © S| 18 44 oF 1 14 56k
Hanover Eur. |Germany [52 22 18 N| 9 48 15 E] 0 38 57 E
Harborough (Mark.) |Eur. |England 52 28 30N] 0 57 25WiL O 3 50W
Harlem Eur. |Netherlands |52 22 r4N| 4 37 OE] 0 18 28E
Hattings Eur. |England 50 52 TON] O gt YOE/O 2 45W
Havannah : Am. |Cuba 23 15 5 N| 82 18 30W 5 29 14W
Havre-de-grace Eur..|France 49 29 14N| 0 623 E}O 0 26E/ 9 0
Heefe (La) Eur. |Netherlands |5t 23 2N] 4.45 30 E) 0 10 2E
St. Helena (Ja. Town) |Af. |S.AtLOcean i15 55 © S| 5 49 OWj O 23 16W
Henlopen (Cape) Am. |Virginia 38 46 ON| 75 12 30W! 5 © 50W
Hernofand Eur. |Sweden 62 38 ON) 17 53 OE) 14 xr 32 E
Hervey’s Ifle Afia |Pac.Ocean {19 17 0 S158 48 OW!]t0 35 12W
Hinchingbroke Ile = |Afia |Pac.Ocean {17 25 © S168 38 oO Ejir 14 32E
Hoai Nghan Afia |China 33 34 40Ni118 49 30 El 7 55 18 E
Hogue (Cape La) Eur. |France 49 44 4ON] 1 56 5s0WI 0 7 47W
Holyhead Eur. |Wales 53 23 ON] 440 OW] 0 18 4oW
Hood's Ifle Afia |Pac. Ocean | g 26 0 8138 52 OW) 9 15 28W
Hoogftraeten Eur. |Netherlands Isr 24 44 NI 447 OFo1r9 8E
Horn (Cape) Am. |T. del Fuego|55 58 © S|} 68 13 OW] 4 29 44W
Hout Bay Af. |Caffres 34 3 OS) 18 19 OF 1 13 16F
Howe's Ifle Afia |Pac.Ocean |16 46 30 S154 6: 49W}r10 16 27W
Huahine (Ifle) Afia |Pac. Ocean |16 44 O Stst 6 OWi10 4 24W
Hull Eur, |England 53 50 ON] 028 OWlo 1 52W
}Hurit Cafe Eur, |England §0 42 23N; x 32 45WlO 6 11W
I,J
Jaffa Afia [Syria 32 § ON| 35 10 OF] 2 20 40 Fl
Jamaica (Port-royal) |Am./Atl Ocean [18 © ON] 76 44 30W| 5 6 58W
Jakuttkoi Afia |Siberia 62 1 30Nit29 47 45 E| 8 39 11 E
Janeiro (Rio) Am. [Brazil 22 54 10 S| 42 43 45W| 2 50 55W
Jafly Eur. |Moldavia [47 8 30N] 27 29 45 El 1 49 59 E
Java Head Afia |Java ‘1649 © S106 50 OEI7 7 20E
Jerufalem Afia |Paleftine 31 46 34N] 35 20 OE] 2 at 20k
St. Idefonfo’s IfMes Am. |'T.del Fuego [55 st © S| 69 22 OW] 4 37 52W
\{mmer (Ifle) Afia |Pac.Ocean |19 16 © Sj169 46 OElrr 19 4E
HIngolitade Eur. |Germany [48 45 45 N| 11 22 30 E| 0 45 30 E
St. John’s Am. /Antigua 17 0 30N|) 62 9 oWl 4 8 46W
St. John’s Am. |Newfoundl. [47 32 ON! 52 26 OW] 3 29 44W) 6
Joppa Afia Syria 32 45 ON! 36 © CW 224 OW
St. Jofeph’s Am (California [23 3 42 S|109 42 30W| 7 18 soW
Irraname ([fle) Afia |Pac.Qcean [19 gt © S/170 at O Eira at 24 F
}Mamabad Alia [India 2220 ON) or 45 OE/ 6 7 OF
Ife of Pines Afia |Pac, Ocean [22 38 © Sjt67 38 OE|tr 10 32 E
Ifpahan Afia |Perfia 32 25 ON| 52 50 OF 3 32 20E |
St. Juan (Cape)
———— ee
Am. Staten Land|s4 47 10 Sl 63.47 oWlais SE
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Sea or
Longitude.
Country.
Names of Places. (Cont. rees. | In Time
Latitude. | In Deg
Judda
St. Juliana (Port)
Juthia
Afia
Am.
Afia
\Afia
Eur.
Eur.
c°) t
Arabia 2I 29
Patagonia [49 £0
India 14 18
K
India . jax 48
Ukraine 50 29
Lapland
¢
“
of
ow
68 52
L
Pav.Ocean |22 2 o FE]
Teneriffe 15W
Yanaries ow
30 E
46 E
31W
a3E
sk
53 FE
15W
C000 OGC OO H~s
Eur. Kfar 5 OF 0 ar 40E
Yur. i goW!l O 4 34W
Eur, |S y OE} 0 49 20 E
Afia | Pac. Ocean 15 E/10 11 53 E
Eur. liingland 45W| 0 18 47W
Euv. |France : 3Wi oo 3 48W
Eur. |Holland 017 52E
Eur. 0 22 20E
Am. |Peru 5 7 18W
Eur. |'rance 45 49 44Ni rigs soEio 5 4FE
Eur. |Germany
Eur. |France
Eur. |Flanders 50 37 SON| 3 416 E|/ 012 17E
Eur, |Portugal 38 42 25 Nl g 4 4oW| O 36 4oW 2 15
Eur. |Ath Ocean [56 40 ON} 17 4g OW) 1 tr OW
Alfa |N. Achrides [15 40 45 8/166 57 OEjtr 7 48E
Eur, |England 53 22 ON! 3 10 OW] 0 12 4oW
Eur. !England 49 57 S6N| 5 tt 18W| O 20 45W! 7 30
Lombes Eur. [France 43 28 3oN| -0 55 QE 0 3 41 E
London (St. Paul’s) jEur.|England [5 3t ON} o 5 37W| 0 0224W! 3
N
aN
qa
a
\'
N
N
aiN
N
N
N
WN
St
M
M
St
M
M
48 16 ON] £3 57 30 FE} 9 55 sok
Lorenzo (Cape) I
St. Louis Cece Hilpaniola
St. Louis (Port Mauritius
Louifbourg
Loweftoffe .
St. Lucia (Ife)
Lunden
Names of Places.
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Sea or
Latitudes,
Country.
Cont. In Degrees.
EES SS |
Lufon
Luxembourg
Lyme Steeple
}|Lynn
4) Lyons
Macao
§| Macaffer
Madeira (Funchal)
Madras .
oof
Eur. |France ‘ 146 27 15 N
Eur. |Netherlands|49 37. 6N
Eur. |England 5t 420N
Eur. |England 52 45 16N
Eur. | France 45 55 5aN
M
Afia |China 22 12 44N|tx3 46 t5 E
Afia |Celebes 5 9 OSir1g 48 45 E
Af. |Atl Ocean 132 37 40N| 16 56 OW
Afia |India 13 4 54Ni 80 28 45 E
Madre de Dios (Port) |Afia |Maquefas 9 55 30 Sir39 8 40W
Madrid
Magdalena (Ifle)
4) Mahon (Port)
Majorca (Ifle)
Malacca
Eur. |Spain 40 25 18N) 312 OW
Afia |Pac. Ocean |ro 25 30 i238 49 OW.
Eur. |Minerca
Afia |[ndia
Malines
I] Malicola (Ife)
St. Maloes
Malta (Ifle)
Manilla
Gustanaetoaccie tae | Corda ae
Eur. |Netherlands |sx x SON! 4 28 45 E| 0 17
Afia |Pac.Ocean |16. 45 30 Sir67 39 15 Err ro
Eur. |France 48 38 SON] 2 2 22W
Af. |Medit.Sea [35 53 47 Ni 14 28 30E
Afia |Phillipines 8 OE
St. Margaret’s Steeple |Eur. |England g 14N 9E
Marigalante (Ifle)
Marfeilles <
St. Martha
St. Martin's (Ifle)
Mantua ({fle)
Mayence
4| Mayne (John's Ifle)
t| Mayo (Ife)
‘In Time.
Sie
° |§
© $7
8 3
° §
ti te te
Am. |Atl. Ocean [15 55 15 Ni 62 tr OWl 4 4 44W
Eur, |France 4317 43Ni 5§ 24
Am. |Terra Firma|tr 26 40Ni] 74 4 30W
Am. |Carib,Sea {18 4 20N] 63 2 OW
14 35 SSN] 61 9 OW
Eur. |Scilly Ifes {49 57 30N| 6 43 OW
Eur. | Azores 36 56 40Ni 25 gxsW
Af. |Ind.Ocean |20 9 45 S| 57 29 15 EF
412 8W
© 26 52W| 3 45
1 40 37W .
Afia |Pac. Ocean |16 25 40 Sirs2 32 4OW|IO £0 It
Eur.|Germany [49 54 ON) 8 20 OE
Eur. |North Ocean'72 10 ON! g 49 30W
Af. |Cape Verd |r5 10 ON) 23 5 OW
Seemed Ce
Meaux
Mecca
Mende
Mergui
Metz
Mew Stone
Mexico
Mizi¢res
Miatea (Iile)
‘St. Michael’s (Ifle)
Middleburg (Ifte
Milan ee
Milo (Ife
Eur. |France 48 57
Afia |Arabia ar 40
Eur, {France 44 31
fia |Siam 12 12
Eur. JFrance - 49 7
Afia |New Hofland|43 48
1am. |Mexico 19 25
Eur. |France 49 45
Afia |Pac. Ocean |t7 52
Eur. | Azores 37 47
Afia
Eur. jItaly
Eur. |Medit. Sea
(Ife)
Minorca (it. 9. Phil.) Eur. |Medit. Sea
© 33 20
© 39 38
I 32 20
ewxewooawdadroad
SSselsSasarseaza
wr w
BPG BEA SoS
S oes tet tot tot Oot Sot
On
<= td
4
Latitudes. H.W.
|
|
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Sts
Longitude.
In Degrees, , In Time.
Sea or
Country. Latitude.
Names of Places. |Cont. H.W.
mene aaa
h ?/
wae et eae tr prt
Modena Eur. |Italy 44 34 ON Ir 12 30E} 0 44 50E
Mons Eur. |Netherlands 90 27 ION) 3 57 15 El ors gy E
‘Montagu (Cape) Am. |sandw. Landis58 33 © S} 26 46 OW! x 47. 4W
Montagu (Ile) Afia |Pac. Ocean |17 26 © S/168 31 30 Eirr 14 6E
Montmirail Eur. |France 48 52 8Nl 3 32 16El/o 14 QE
Montpellier Eur. |France 43 36 29N 3 52 2 E] o 15 30E
Mottreal Am. |Canada 4§ 50 ON! 73 13 OW! 4 52 44W
Montierrat (Ifle) Am. |Carib. Sea [16 47 30N) 62 17 OW] 4 9 8W
Monunient (‘The) Afia |Pac. Ocean |17 14 15 Si168 38 x5 : Ir 14 33 E].
Motcow Eur. |Mofcovy |55 45 45 N| 37 32 45 El] 2 30 rr E
Moulins - Eur. {France 46 34 4N 3:19 59 E © 13 20E
Munich Eur. |Bavaria 48 9 55N 11 30 OF|-0 46 OF
Hi Mufketto Cove Am. |Greenland (64 55 13.N| 52 56 45W| 3 31 47Wiro rs
Mufwell Hiil Eur. JEngland St 35 32N) 0 7 20Wl Oo 0 29W.
N
Namur Eur. {Netherlands ;59 28 32N, 4 44 45 E! 5
Nancy Eur. {France 48 41 55N} 610 16E! 4
f| Nangafacki Afia |Japan 3% 32 ON/128 46 15 E) 8
Nankin Afia |China 32 4 40 Sitr8 47 OE 7 55 8 E
Nantes Eur. |France 47 13 ON} 1 32 59Wio 6 12W
Naples Eur, Italy 4c 50 15 Ni 14 17 30 E| 0 57 10E
Narbonne Eur, |France 43 10 58N) 2 59 59 FE} @12 OF
Nevers Eur: |France 46 59 17N] 3 9 16E © 12 37 E
New Year’s Harbour |{Am. (Staten Land 54 48 55 S| 64 11 OW] 4 16 43W
Niagara Am. |Canada 43 425Ni 799 7 vai 5 16 31W |
Nice Eur, |France 43 41 47N! 7 16 22 E| o 29 «SE
St. Nicholas Mole Am. |Hilpaniota [1g 49 20N! 73 29 45W| 4 53 SOW
b/ Nieuport Mole Eur. |Flanders st 7 4IN! 245 OF! out oF ©
if| Ningpa Afia |China 29 57 45 Nir20 18 OF, 8 112E
Nifmes Fur. {France 143 SO 12N) 4 18 39 Fo 17 IS E
Noir (Cape) Am. r, . del Fuego’ 54 32 30 S| 73. 3 1sW] 4 48 13W
b| Nootka Am. }Pac. Ocean 49 36 6Ni126 4 30W/ 8 26 soW
Norfolk Iland Afia |Pac. Ocean jag o£ 45 Ni168 30 oO Eli1 12 40F
Noriton Am, |Penntylvania go 9 56N| 75 23 30W| § 1’;
North Cape Eur. Lapland l7r x0 ON! 25 57 OF 1 43
Capé North Am. is. Georgia 54 4 4s Ni 38 15 OW] 2 33. cW
|Noyon Eur. [Prance 49 34 SON) 3.59 48 El our sgFk
Nuremberg kur. {Germany '49 26 55 Ni rt 4 OE) 0 44 164
fe)
Ositipgha Bay Afia (Otaheite 17 29 17 Sir49 35 45W! 9 56 57 W
Ochog- . Afia |'Tatary 59 20 10Nit43 12 30 E} g 32 SOF
Ohamanéno Harbouy | Afia |Uliatesh 16 45 30 Sitsr 38 SW 19 6 32Witt 20
Ohevahoa (Ifle) Afia |Pac. Ocean 9 40 40 § $1139 t 40oW
Ohitalroo (Ifle tAfia Pac. Ocean | 9 £5 3° Sit39, 6 OW
Olergn (1 e) Eur. |France 46 2 50 Ni 1 25 13W
Qlinde +" | bAm. | Brazil 8313 0 | 35 § 30W
St. Qmer's Eur. {Flanders [so 43 qb N| 2 14°57 E
Ohateavio (Ide) \Afia ‘Pac. Ocean | 9 58 © Sitz38 sn OW
—— i
7Wirto 15
19 We
7W
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Longitude.
In Degrees. | In Time.
Aw.
eee
ov NW h / 4 h ‘|!
Oporto Eur, |Portugal (41 10 ON) 8 22 OW! 0 33 8W
Orenhurg Afia |Tatary 5846 5 NI 55 4 30 E| 3 40 185
Orleans Eur, |France 47 SA 10N| 1215: 27E 0 7 38E
Orleans (New) Am. |Louifiana 29 57 45 Ni 89 58 45W! 5 59 55W
Oratava Af. |Teneriffe {28 23 27 N) 16 24 utWi st 5 37W
Orfk Afia ;Tatary 5t 12 30N) 58 30 45 El 3 54 2E
Eur. |Spain 43 46 30N|) 7 39 OW] 30 36W
Otnaburg (Ifle) Afia |Pac. Ocean j17 49 30 SiT49 26. :5Wi 9 52 24W
Oftend Eur. |Neitherlandsis51 13 55N 255 45E o1r 43 E
Owharre Bay Afia |Huahind 16 44 0 Sirst 8 15W 10 4 33W
a ga NS ee:
Ortagal (Cape)
a
Oxford (Obfervatory) )Eur. {England 52 45 38 Ni 115 3c o 5 4W
p
Padua Eur. (Tealy 45 13 40 N] 11 52 30 EF) 0 47 30E
Paita Am. |Peru 512 OS
Pallifer’s (IMes) Afia |Pac. Ocean [15 38 15 5/146 30 r5Wi 9 46 1W
Pallifer’s (Cape) Afia \N. Zealand |4r 38 0 Sji75 18 OE]ut 44 30 E
Palma (Ife) Af. |Canaries (28 36 45 Nj 17 so OWj £ x1 20W
Palmerfton’s (Ife) Afia }Pac. Ocean {18 0 0 S/x62-57 OWlr0 5st 48W
Vanama Am. |Mexico 8 47 48 Nj 80 2z OW] 5 21 24W
Vaoom (Ifle) Afia |Pac Ocean [16 30 © S/168 28 45 Ejtt 13 45 E
Paris (Obterv.) Eur. {France 48 so 14N| 220 OE O g 208
Patrixtiord Eur, {Iceland 65 35 45 N| 24 10 OW! Xr 36 40W) .
—— | ee eel ore | 6 ey eee |
Pau Eur. |Frante 43 15 ON! 0 9 OWlo o 36W
St. Pauls (Ifle) Af. |Ind.Ocean (37 5st © S| 77 48 OF] 5 11 12 E
St. Paul de Léon Kur. |France 48 40 55N| 4 90 21Wi 0 16 1W
Pekin Afia |China 39 54 13 Nir16 27 30 FE] 7 45 SOE
Verigueux Eur. | France 45 1% 8N!| 043 QEIO 2 53%
Perinaldi Eur, [ftaly 43 §3 20N] 7 40 OF! 0,30 408
Perpignan Kur }France a2 42 S3N| 253 35 El our 34 ff
St. Peter’s Fort Am. |Magtinico [14 44 ON! 6£ a1 16Wi 4 5 25W
St. Peter's (Ile) Am.| Atl. Ocean [46 46 30 N/ 5617 OW) 3 45 8W
Peterfburgh Kur, [Ruffia 59 56 23Ni 5019 OF} 2 © 16E
Petit Goave Am. |Hitpanivla 1)8 27 ON] 72 52 30W| 4 51.30W
Petropawlofkoi Afia |Kamehatka {53 4 20Nit58 483 O Ej10 35 13 EF
Philadelphia Am. |Pentylvania |39 56 55 N| 75 13 3cWl 5 0 54W
St Philip’s Fort Eur. {Minorca 39 50 4GN! 3 48 30 EJ O15 14 EF
Pickertgill’s (Ifle) Am. |Atl, Ocean [54 42 30 S| 36 58 OW) 2 27 52W
Pickerfgill’s Harbour |Afia |N. Zealand |45 47 27 8)166318 yg blir -5 13 E
Pico Eur. |Azores 38 28 40N| 28 26 OW] © 53 44W
Vines (Ife) — - Afia |N. Caledoniajaz 38 o 8/167 48 OF itr 10 32
Pifa Eur. {Italy 43 43 7N| 10 23 OF O gt 32 E
Plymouth Garriton — [Eur. |England 50 21 2aN] 4 7 24W] 0 16 3oW
omeneee | ee ee,
Poitiers Eur. |France 40 34 SON] 020 gBElo 3+ 23k
Pollingen Eur. |Germany $47 48 27 Ni] tt 7:17 El 0 44 29K
Poole Church Kur, [England 50 42 sON| 12 58 s5Wio 7 SOW
Pondicherry Afia |India in 4t SSN] 79 52 45 E] 5 19 GRE
Ponoi Eur, | Lapland 67 4 30N| 36 23 rs HK] 225 338
Pontoife Eur, | France 49 3 aN 2 § 37 E/o 8 a2E
Portland Lightehoufe {Eur | England 50 34 22N| 2 26 gyWlo 9 47W
Porto Bello Am. | Mexico 9 33 5 NI 79 50 20W) 5 ry arW
Names of Places. {Cont.
esermeny a,
Prince of Wales’s Fort|Am. |New Wales |58 47 32. Ni 94 7 3oW! 636 30W
Providence
Rakah (Ancient) '
Ramhead
INTRODUCTION. ,
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Ramfgate Windmill
Rhé (Ifle)
Recif
Reikianefs (Cape)
Refolution (Ife)
R efolution (Port)
Rheims
Rodrigues (Ife)
Rome (St. Peter’s)
Rotterdam
Rotterdam (Ifle)
Rouen '
»
Longitude. |
In Degrees. | In Time.
Sea or
Country. ee
Latitude.
° nL ° aout U
32 §8 Is N a5 15W 5 41W
18 0 ON 45 30W 7 aW
14 35 55N 9 OW! 4 4 36W
5047 27N) 3 5 57Wio 4 agWie 15:
Eur. | England 5048 2N) 1 6 rW 4 24W
Eur. (North Sea |63 22 ON| 18 54 OW) 115 36W
Afia |Pac. Ocein 139 25 © Sit78 12 OWir2 52 48 E
Am. |Hifpaniola {19 58 ON! 73 2 OW) 4 48 8W ;
Af. ‘St. Jago 14 53 53.N| 23 29 aaW 133 s7Witr o
Eur. |Bohemia 50 § 47 N| 14 24 o£ 0 57 36E
Af. | Madeira
Am. | Jamaica
Am. ! Martinico
Eur. | England
16
76
61
Am. |N. England |4r 50 40N/ 71 26 OW! 4 45 44W
Afia |N. Caledoniajzo 18 0 S164 41 14 Elto 58 45 E| 6 30
Afia |Ind. Ocean | 8 4O ONj107 20 OF/ 7 9g 20E
Afia |Gulph Siam | 3 0 ONi104 25 OF] 6 45 40£],
Afia Pac. Ocean |22 23 © S\175 41 30Wj11 42 46W
Q
46 47 30 N| 71 10
France 47 58 29 N} 4
. |France 49 50 5t N| 317
ia |N. Hebrides |14 56 8 S167 20
. (Pera QO 13 17S! 77 $5
R
Mefopotam./36 x ON 33 50
England 5Q 18 40N; 4 20
England I 24
Fratice I 34
Am. |Brafil 8 10 0 S| 35 35
Eur. |[celand 63 55 ON| 22 47
Eur. |France
Afia |Ohiatoo 55. 30 S\139. 8 40W| 9 16 35 WI 2 30
Afia |Pac, Ocean “ 23 30S a 45 ow 4 27 OW .
Afia |Tanna 19 32 25 S169 4r § Err 18 44 E
Am. {Canada OW 4.44 40W] 7 30
oW| o 16 a4W
23 EF] o 13 10 E
OEtr 9 20E
OW] 5 Ir 4OV
Afia
Eur.
Eur.
Eur.
Eur. |France 49 15 16N| 4 1 48E
Eur. |France 44 20 SON] 2 3417 E
Afia |Archipelago [35 27. ON} 28 45 OE
Eur. {Italy 44 3 43 N 12 34 15 E
Am. |Brazil 42 §4 10 S| 42 43 4sW
Eur. |France N
Eur. |France
Eur, |Portugal 9
Af. jInd. Ocean jrg 40 40 8; 63 10 OE
Eur. Italy 4l 53 54N| 12 29 15 E
Eur. |Holland
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
S
Latitude. Longitude.
gy In Degrees. | In Time.
N 1 i fe
Vv : ost Oo fv 7] heeouw
| eee .|Carib. Sea 117 39 30 N| 6317 15W| 413 OWI -
Witz 5 . |Nova Scotia |73 23 45 Nj 65 39 15W] 4 22 37W
W . Silefia §1 42 12N] 15 22 15 E] x 1 29E
tg . |France 45 44 43Ni 0 38 sWilo 2 36W
i . [France 48 0 35N! 7:23 55 E] 0 29 365
W {England {51 3 43N] 147 OWlo 8 8W
Witz 'o Atl. Ocean |16 38 15 Ni 22 56 15Wi 1 31 45W
E Sanolique . |Turkey 40 41 10N/ 2g 8 OF 1 32 32E
viealwaicelig {| Salvages (Ifles) . {Ath Ocean |30 0 ON 15 54 OW, 1 3. 26W
Ww Samana * . .|Hifpaniola |19 15 ON j
. 6 30 Samos Archipelago |37 46 ON
E Sanéia Cruz Teneriffe |23 27 30N
E I|Sandwich (Bay) . |St. Georgia [54 52 0 S
wl - Sandwich (Cape) Mallicola’ {16 28
&, Sandwich Harbour Mallicola {16 25
Sandwich (ifle) Pac. Ocean |17 41
Saunders’s (Cape) . |Sandw. Landj54 6
Saunders’s (Ifle) S. Georgia {538
WI] 7 30 Savage “it Afia |Pac.Ocean |19 2 15 Sit69 30 30Wi1r 18 2W
hid Scarborough Head Eur. {England 5418 ON) 013 OWlo o 52W
) [eaeeES OSs me
E Schwezingen Eur. |Germany (49 23 4N! 8 40 45 El 0 34 23 E
MA Scilly Tfles (Lights) Eur, |Eng.Channelj49 56 ON) 6 46 oWlo 27 4W
Sebaitian St. (Cape) Af. |Madagafcar [12 30 © S| 46.25 oF] 3
4 Sedan Eur. |France 49 42 29N! 4 57 36 Elo
Seez Eur. |France 48 36 23N] 0 10 44 E| o
5 FE Senegal < Af. |Negroland. |t5 53 16 3t 30W| 1
w Senlis 2 34 58 Ej} o
Sens 317 21 E] o
4\Senones 657 OE o
Sheernefs °o 58 OE} o
Shepherd’s (Ifles)
A\Shirburn Caitle
§\Siam
Si-ngham-fu
Sifteron
{| Sligo Bay
Smyrna
Snzfell (Mount)
Soiffons Eur. |France 49 27 52N) 3 19 16E 3
Sombavera (Ifles) Am. |Carib. Sea (18 38 ON) 63 37 30W
Soolo
Zemmnts| waaeese
ae os
; Seba
=
>w
Loa)
nw
Southampton Spire °
bh E Southern Thule I
bE Speaker Bank 4
Stalbridge °
LE Star-Poiut °
WwW Stockholm ; 138 345 E] 112 16E
Stonehenge . |England 51 10 44N) 149 8Wilo 7 16W
Straumnefs . {Iceland 65 39 40N) 24 29 r5W) 1k 37 57W
. [France 48 34 S6N| 7 44 36E] 0 30 S8E
- ERT ey ere
INTRODUCTION.
The Latitudes and Lengitudes of Places.
Sea or
Country.
emcmrmemee sme apt | enema) SEn | tonne SE
Oo" ovr
Am. |T. del Fuegol54 49 45 S} 65 25 OW] 4 21 40W
Am. |T. del Fuegols55 x © S} 65 27 OW! 4 21 48
29 50 ON} 33 27 OE 13 48 E
47 53 IONt 7.14 32W] 0 28 58W
2110 ON! 72 22 49 30
T
Table Ifand Afia |N. Hebrides|15 38 oO S[167 7
Tanna Afia |Pac. Ocean |19 32 25 S|169 4t
Taoukaa (Ifle) fia |Pac. Ocean {14 30 30 Slr45 9
Tarafcon sur. {France 43 48 20N| 4 39
. | France 4313 52N}.0 3
Ile Palma {28 38 ON] 17 58
Afia |Soloo 5 é7 ON|120 53
Canaries 28°17. ON} 16 40
. |Azores 38 45 ON} 27 6 OW
. Holland 53 10 ON} 4 59
Longitude. H.W.
Latitude. | tn Degrees. | In Time.
Names of Places. |Cont.
Succefs Bay
Suceefs Cape
Suez Af. {Egypt
Sultz Eur. |France
{Surat Afia India
Taffacorta
‘Temontengis
Thionville
Thomas St. (Ile)
Thule (Southern)
‘Furnagain (Cape)
Turtle Ifand
. |France
49 at
. ;Virgin Iles jx8 2x
. (Sandw. Land!s9 34
. {France
India
India
Siberia
a IN. Zealand
. {Spain
Siberia
Pac. Ocean
. {France
. |England
. (Sweden
. }France
. |France
. |France
. {France
Afia {Erramanga
. |Adriatic Sea.
. Atl. Ocean
Barbary
. {France
- {Italy
N. Zealand
Afia | Pac. Ocean
Eur. |Hungary
Afia |Pac. Ocean
Eur. ‘Sweden.
Eur. |Denmark
Eur. |France
49 21
10 23
8 15
58 12
38 21
39 50 3 oW] 0 13 ,3¢
56 30 ON] 84 59 30E] 5 39 58 E
=
2%
50 34
65 50 50N
437
43 35
48 43 57N
47 23
18 43
45 51
45 41I14N| 7 40 OE} O 30 40E
40 28 0 Sit76 56 oO Elat 47 44E
19° 48 45 Si177 57, OWjrr 51 48W
48 23 30 Ni 17 33 45 El 1 ro. 15 E
U
1645 oSlrsr 3r oWlro 6 4W
59 5 SON) £7 38 45 E| t 10 35 E
55 54 38N) 12 42 44 FE) o go 51 E
48 28 30N] § 4 33W} 0 20 18W| 4
[eee eee cee |
3
The
addddcaeaaaa, AA Ao LRE__—__
1.W.
INTRODUCTION,
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.
Vv
Longitude. Ww
!
Latitude. In Degrees. In Time.
Sea or
Country.
Names of Places. [Cont.
u“
h
50 21 27N! 3 31 40E/ 0
o1113N) 1 37 6£E}.0
°
Valenciennes Eur, {France
Valery, St. Eur. |France
Vallery, St. Eur. |France 49 52 12N| 0 41 I10E
Valparaito Am. |Chili 33 2 36 Si 72 19 15Wi 4 49 17W
Van Dieman’s Road. |.Afia |T'onga Tabu jar 4 15 S174 56 24Wi11 39 46W
‘Vannes Eur. |France 47 39 14N| 2 46 26W] O 11.47W
Vence Eur. {France 43 43 16N| 7 7 28 E| 0 28 30E
Venice ‘ Eur. |Italy 45 26 7N| 12 22 45 E] 0 49 31 E
Venus (Point) Afia {Otaheite 17 29 17 Sir49 35 45W| 9 58 23Wi10 30
Vera Cruz Am. |Mexico 19 9 38N/} 96 o OW; 6 24 OW
Verd (Cape) Af. |Negroland |14 43 45 N} 17 30 45W| 1°10 3W
Verdun Eur. |France 49 9 24N 5 22 4r EJ] 0 21 31E
Verona Eur. {Italy 45 26 7N/ 11 18 30E] 0 45 14E
Verfailles Eur. |France 48 48 21N) 2 7 7Hio 8 a8E
Vienna (Obferv.) Eur. |Hungary [48 12 36N| 16 16 22 Ei x 5 30E
Vigo Eur. [Spain 42 1424N) 8 28 OW] o 33 52W
Vincent, St. (Cape) jEur. |Spain 37 3 ON! 8 59 26W| o 35 58W
Vintimiglia Eur. |Ital 43 53 2ON] 7 37 30E| co 30 30E
Virgin Gorda (Fort) {Am. |Weft Indies [18 18 ON| 64 0 OW] 416 OW
Virgin (Cape) Am. {Patagonia [52 23 © S} 67 54 OW! 4 31 36W
Viviers Eur, |France 44 28 57Ni 4 40 55 E| 0 18 44E
WwW
Wakefield England 53 4t ON! 1 33 30Wlo 6 14W
Prince of Wales’s Fort Am New Wales |58 47 30N| 94 7 30W| 6 16 30W
Wanttead England St 34 I0N) 0 2 30EL0 OI0E
Wardhus Lapland 70 22 36N] 31 6 45Fl 2 427E
Warfaw . Poland 52 14 28N/ 2 0 OE} 1 24 2E
Weftman (Ifles) N. Ocean |63 20 30N] 20 27 45W| i ar 51W
Wexford Ireland 5222 ON! 6 30 OW] 0 26 oW
Weymouth England 52 40 ON! 2 34 OWlO 9g 36W
Whitehaven . |England 5425 ON) 315 OWl 0173 oW
Whitfuntide (Ife) Afia |Pac. Ocean [15 44 20 $/168 20 15 Eltr 13 a1 E] *
Bengal 22 34 45.N 88 29 30 E
.|S.Georgia |54 © © S| 38 29 40W
.|Poland | 54 41 ON! 25 27 30E
.|Germany {51 53 ON] 12 44 30E
William (Fort)
Willis’s (Ifles)
Wilna
Wittenburgh
Wologda Ruffia 59 19 ON
Worcefter England 52 9 30N) 2 o15W
Woflak . |Ruffia 61 15 ON
Wyke Church . England 5° 35 S7Ni 2 18 10W
Wurtzburgh . [Franconia [49 46 6N] 10 13 45 B
Y
Ylo Am. [Per 17 36 15 S] 7t 13. CW] 4 44 520
York Eur. |England 53 59 ON] £t 6 40oWlO 427W
York (New) Am, Jeriey 40 40 ON) 74 rt OW! 4 56 44W| 3
Yorkminfter Am. | Pe del Fuego|55 26 29 S| o 8 oOW| 4 40 32W
MODERN
ba ae ee
sia RE i
Der
It is
of t
char
geo 4
parts
G
trate
{crib
rega:
and
is cal
tion «
A
rrapl
ger
into
their
provi
interi
have
of a
eolo
of pl
u
of the
ous ni
term |
Geo
hitter
hiftori
verfifi
bratec
rials a
Dr
deter
period
of the
difcov
MODERN GEOGRAPHY.
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
HE word geography is derived from the Greek
Derinitions. ] T language, ie ee ies a defcription of the earth.
It is fometimes contrafted with Aydrography, which fignifies a defcription
of the water, that is, of fea%, lakes, rivers, &c. thus including marine
charts: but in. general hydrography is rather regarded as a province of
geography. Both were anciently confidered along with aftronomy as
parts of co/mography, which afpired to delineate the univerfe.
Geography is more juftly contrafted with chorography, which illuf-
trates a country or province ; and ftill more with topography, which de.
{cribes a particular place or {mall diftri&.
What is called Genetal Geography embraces a wide view of the fubjeét,
regarding the earth aftronomically as a planet, the grand divifions of land
and water, the Winds, tides, meteorology, &c. and may extend to what
is called the mechanical part of geography, in direétions for the conftruc-
tion of globes, maps, and charts.
Among the other divifions of this fcience may be named Sacred Geo-
graphy, folely employed in the illuftration of the Scriptures ; Ecclefiaftic
Geography, which defcribes the government of the Church, as divided
into patriarchates, archbifhoprics, bifhoprics, archdeaneries, &c. with
their refpective boundaries, often varying much from thofe of the fecular
provinces: and Phyfical Geography, or Geology, which inveftigates the
interior of the earth, fo far as real difcoveries can be made; for what
have been ftyled fyftems of the earth, which have confumed the labours
of many ingenious men, have no conneétion with the folid fcience of
geology, but ought rather to be ftyled cofmogonies, or ideal creations
or planets.. *
ut Geography, popularly confidered, is oc¢upied in the defcription
of the various regions of this globe, chiefly as being divided among varie
ous nations, and improved by human art and induftry. If a fcientific
term were indifpenfable for this popular acceptation, that of Hiftorical
Geography might be adopted ; not only from its profeffed fubfervience to
hiftory, but becaufe it is in fa&t a narrative fo nearly approaching the
hiftorical, that Herodotus, and many other ancient hiftorians, have di-
verfified their worke with large ge of geography, and the cele.
brated defcription of Germany by Tacitus contains moft of the mate-
rials adopted in modern treatifes of geography.
Divisions or Grocrapuy.] In this popular point of view hiftorical
graphy admits of three divifions: 1. The Ancient or Claffical, which
defcribes the ftate of the earth fo far as it was difcovered at different
periods, but not extending further than the year of Chrift s00, 2. That
of the Middle Ages, which reaches to the fifteenth century, when the
difcoveries of the Portuguefe beg to lay wider casa = the
* Icrence,
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
fcience. 3. Modern Geography, the fole fubje& of the prefent work,
which, while it embraces the moft recent difcoveries, {till remains capable
of great acceflions, particularly in Africa; not to mention more minute
deficiencies.
The chief object of modern geography is to prefent the moft recent
and authentic information concerning the numerous nations and ftates
which divide and diverfify the earth ; but on this fubjeé& it is impoffible to i
attain accurate ideas without a brief introductory view of the progrefs of oy
each nation and ftate. ‘Though in fome few inftances natural barriers pi
have divided, and continue to divide, nations, yet in general the bound.
aries are arbitrary ; fo that the natural geography of a country, though
forming an effential feature, hitherto treated with too much negleé in
geographical works, cannot be admitted to a predominance, but, on the
contrary, as matter yields to mind, may rather be regarded asa fequel in
hiftorical geography, which is chiefly occupied in defcribing the diverfi-
t'es of nations, and the conditions of the various races of mankind. On
this fubjeét there is no doubt room for a variety of opinions; but, after
long confideration, it has appeared mott eligible to prefer the following
order; 1. The hiftorical or progreflive geography of each country.
2. Its political ftate, including mott of the topics which recent German tivity
writers, by a term of dubious purity, call ftatiftic. 3. The civil geo- He M
graphy, including objets not fo immediately connected with the govern. TI
ment, as an account of the chief cities, towns, &c. 4. The natural anet
eography. _—
’ Apogee al OF THE WORLD. ] The ancients confidered the earth under ar’
the-three grand divifions of Afia, Europe, and Africa; yet, as they all lante
form one continent, the diftinGtions were arbitrary, as they often included 5 acif
Egypt, under Afia, and they had not difcovered the limits of Europe | eae
towards the north-eaft. Modern difcoveries have to thefe added a fourth ‘an
ate
on {
by |
ero\
prot
mon
mour
confi
divifion, that of America, which, exceeding even Afia in fize, might per- filled
haps as well have been admitted under two grand and diftiné&t denomina-
tions, limited by the Ifthmus of Darien. It was fuppofed, till within
thefe thirty years, that there exifted a vaft continent in the fouth of the
lobe, and many {chemes were formed for colonizing the wide and opu-
ent Terra Auftralis ; but the fecond navigation of the immortal Cook
difpelled this yifionary land from geography, or demonttrated, that if any
continent there exifted, it mult bg loft in the uninhabitable ice of the
South Pole. Yet the wide extent of New Holland rewarded the views
of enterprife. ‘Too large for an iflandy too {mall for a continent, New tourfe
Holland, like the other works of nature, eludes the petty dittinétions of frenie
man}; and while geographers hefitate whether to afcribe it to Afia, or, ene
with De Brofles, to scents it a fiftli {pecific divifion of the globe, it
is not improbable that the popular divifion of four quarters of the world
will continue to predominate over any fcientific difcuflion. Of the grand .
divifions of the earth, Afia has ever been the moit populous, and is fup- shownt
pofed to contain about 500,000,000 of fouls, if China, as recently averred, TR tion
comprife 330,000,000. ‘The population of Africa may be 30,000,000, sort
of America 20,000,000, and 156,000,000 may be affigned to Europe *.
Face or THe GLOBE.) Recent difcoveries have evinced that more than
two-thirds of this globe are covered with water ; and thefe waters, whe-
ther oceans, feas, lakes, or rivers, are contained in hollow {paces more or
lefs large, which late French geographers have called J /7ns, or bafons, by
of yet
a
courfe
groun
wards
it muf
rivers
plains
and w
tion, 1
nature
* Aufralafia and Polynefia, or New Holland, and the ifles in tie Pacific, probably do
fot contain above half a million,
aterm
efent work,
ains capable
nore minute
moft recent
1s and ftates
mpoflible to
progrefs of
iral_ barriers
i the bound.
try, though
h pagledt th
, but, on the
sa fequel in
x the diverfi-
inkind. On
;; but, after
he following
ch country.
cent German
he civil geo-
n the govern-
The natural
e earth under
et, as they all
yften included
ts of Europe
dded a fourth
e, might per-
& denomina-
d, till within
fouth of the
ide and opu-
ortal Cook
d, that if any
ble ice of the
ded the views
tinent, New
diftinétions of
to Afia, or,
the globe, it
of the world
Of the grand _
hs, and is fup-
ently averred,
‘ 30,000,000,
to Europe *.
hat more than
waters, whe-
paces more or
or bafons, by
ific, probably do
a term
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 3
aterm of little dignity. They may as well be called concavities ; while
on the other hand, the chief: convexities or protuberances of the globe,
by the French ftyled plateaux, confift of elevated uplands, Toiietities
crowned by mountains, fometimes rather level, as in the extenfive central
protuberance of Afia. * In either cafe, long chains of mountains com-
monly proceed from thofe chief convexities in various dire€tions ; andthe
principal rivers ufually {pring from the moft elevated grounds. Though
the low and fertile plains generally perceivable for a long fpace before
rivers enter the fea are often depofited by their waters, as in the Delta of
Egypt and other inftances, yet the geologift would in vain attempt go
ncral rules ; while as on a {mall fcale deép glens are found without Le
rivulet, fo ona large one, vaft and extenfive hollows will appear without
the fmalleft trace of their having been pervaded by a river.
-Oceans.] 'The grandeft concavity of this globe is filled by the Pacific
ocean, occupying nearly half of its furface, from the eaftern fhores of
New Holland to the Weitern Coaft of America; and diverfified with
feveral groups of iflands, which feem as it were the fummits of vaft
mountains emerging from the waves. This chief concavity, feparatel
confidered, receives but few rivers, the chief being the Amur from Tan
tary, and the Hoan Ho and Kian Ku from China, while the principal
rivers oft America run towards the eaft. }
The next great concavity is that of the Atlantic ocean, between the
ancient continent and the new. A third is the Indian ocean.
The feas between the arctic and antarétic circles and the poles have
been ityled the Arctic and Antarétic oceans; the latter having fup-
planted the Terra Auttralis, and being in fa& only a continuation of the
‘Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans; while the Arétic fea is partly em-
braced by continents, and receives many important rivers.
Such are the moft profound concavities of the globe, while others are
filled by more minute feas, as the Mediterranean, the Baltic, and others
of yct {mallér extent till we defcend to inland lakes of frefh water.
ivens.] Oblong concavities, fometimes of great length, mark the
courfes of the rivers; which generally at firtt interfect the higher
grounds, till the declivity become more gentle on their approach to-
wards their inferior receptacles, But as general views are feldom precife
it muft not be forgotten, as already in part obferved, that even large
rivers fometimes {pring from lowland marfhes, and wind through vaft
plains unaccompanied by any concavity except that of their immediate
courfe ; while, on the other hand, extenfive vales and low hollow fpaces
frequently occur deftitute of any ftream, Rivers will alfo fometimes
force a paffage, where nature hgs cre¢ted mountains and rocks againtt it ;
and where the Ja/in of the French would appear to be in another direc.
tion, which the river might: have gained with more eafe: fo eftranged is .-
nature from human theory, In like manner though the chief chains of;
mountains in Europe’extend in a fouth-eafterly 9 4 north-wefterly direc.
tion, yet there are fo many exceptions, and fuch numerous and ing.
portant variations in other parts of the globe, that theory in vain attempts
to generalize. As mountains may be found in every direétion of the
compafs, fo a river may rife from an inland lake or marfh, and force ite
way through rocky barriers of great elevation. In fhort, the theory of
the French geographers, though juft in general, muft not be too widely
prea oh and the book of nature muft be regarded as the chief code of
confultation.
Continents.) From the vat expanfe of oceanic waters arifes in the
ancient hemifphere that wide — which contains Afia, Europe,
2 and
‘
4 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
and Africa, and in the modern hemifphere the continent of America, now
difcovered to form as it were a‘feparate ifland, divided by a ftrait of the
fea from the ancient continent. In the latter many difcoveries of the ut.
moft importance to geography are of very modern date + and it is not
above fixty years fince we obtained an imperfect idea of the extent of
Siberia and the Ruffian empire; nor above twenty years fince ample, :
real, and accurate knowledge of thefe wide regions began to be diffufed,
So that in fact. America may be faid to have been difcovered before A fia;
and of Africa our knowledge continues imperfeét, while the neweft ob..
fervatioys, inftead of diminifhing, rather increafe our ideas of its extent.
But the grandeit divifion of the ancient continent is Afia, the parent
of nations and of civilization: on the no«h-eaft and fouth furrounded by
the ocean; but on the weft divided by an ideal line from Africa, and
from Europe by boundaries not very ftrongly imprefled by the hand of
nature. The Ruffian and 'Turkith empires extending over large portions
of both continents intimately conneét Afia with Europe. Butfor the
fake of clearnefs and precifion, the chief merits of any work of fcience,
geographers retain the ftrict divifion of the ancient continent into three
great parts, facrificing a more minute to a more important diftin&tion ;
which if not ftri€tly natural is ethical, as the manners of the Afiatic fub-
jects of Ruffia, and even of Turkey, differ confiderably from thofe of the
European inhabitants of thofe empires.
As Europe is the feat of letters and arts, and the greateft exertions of
human energy in every department ; and is befides the native region of
the chief modern geographers, and that in which the readers are moft
intimately and deeply interefted, it is always the divifion firft treated ;
though the order is arbitrary, and Ptolemy, who has been ftyled the
father of geography, begins indeed with Europe, but defcribes Africa
before Afia *. Before proceeding more minutely to confider the feveral
kingdoms and {tates comprifed in this great divifion of the globe, it will
be proper, in compliance with an ufual and unobjectionable Bem, to offer
a brief and general defcription of this diftinguifhed portion of the earth.
EUROPE.
. HIS part of the globe is the {malleft in extent, yieldin
Exrevr:] | confiderably to Africa, From the Portuguefe ca :
called by our mariners the Rock of Lifbon, in the weft, to the Uralian
mountains in the eaft, the length ma about 3,300 Britifh miles;
and the breadth from the North Cape in Danifh Lapland, to Cape Ma-
tapan, the fouthern extremity of Greece, may be about 2,350. The
contents in fquare miles have been calculated with fuch diverfity of
opinion, Such eftimates being in truth arbitrary and only comparative,
that it is fufficient to mention the medial number of about two millions
anda half. ~~
Lraits.] The ancients had no juft ideas of the boundaries of Europe,
the name itfelf having feemingly originated from a {mall diftri& near the
Hellefpont, as the diftinétive name of Afia alfo fpread from the oppotite
fhore. More than a third part of Europe towards the north and eaft
has only been known with precifion in modern times; on the fouth, the
Continental part is limited by the Mediterranean fea, on the weft by the
# The belt edition of his maps, Amft, 3730, places Africa firft,
1y Atlantia
América, now
a ftrait of the
ries of the ut.
. and it is not
the extent of
s fince ample, :
o be diffufed.
| before A fia ;
he neweft ob..
, of its extent.
ia, the parent
svecanled by
n Africa, and
y the hand of
€ portions
Bat for the
rk of {cience,
ent into three
nt diftin€tion ;
ie Afiatic fub-
m thofe of the
ft exertions of
tive region of
aders are moft
firft treated ;
en ftyled the
{cribes Africa
der the feveral
lobe, it will
‘orm, to offer
of the earth.
nt, yielding
uguele cape,
o the Uralian
Britifh miles ;
to Cape Ma-
2; 50. The
verfity of
comparative,
two millions
of Europe,
ict near the
the oppofite
orth and eaft
he fouth, the
weft by the
Atlantia,
Shee RR Cee RE WE
| AMepp?
b oi hi
deve s \ \
pera \ \
aa ’
jresn |
, OE ans i e oe nt lb ees 3
. oe
Colbeng 1) Ralalboro d
eet 2 99 Wiznas
\ ion K
iy ain / Kesbuly
i
6 Minidion
ida me ‘ ayy vr
thge (aheote lig —_
, alee > 0.
.gavaduica
=~
sommes Tay
From Arrowsmith s 4 Sheet Map of Hvope.
Published Muh 113th by thdelland Davies Strand and Langman and h
/
Lag q.
Ura eee +. eee (ona e REET: ES ea =
Bo
Sa et
the 4 Sheet Map of Euvope.
javier Novnd and Langman and Reos Paternoster Raw.
excey
ancie
the f
thips
or th
the {
maps
mm heen
the J
thian
52° ¢
eat.
the n
nied '
to ex
wher
EUROPE.
Atlantic, which contains the furtheft European ifles, thofe of the Azores
and Iceland, Greenland being regarded as a part of North America.
On the north the boundar is the Arétic ocean, embracing the remote
ifles of Spitzbergen and Novaya Zemlia, or the New Land. Toward
the eaft the limits admit %f fome difcuffion. The Uralian mountains,
a grand natural limit, not extending to the Arétic ocean; the river
’ Cara, which flows into thé fea of Karfkoy, is admitted as a boundary,
The Uralian boundary extends to about 56 degrees of north latitude :
to the fouth of which the grand confines of Europe and Afia have been ~
fought in the petty diftin¢tions of Ruffian governments. ~ More natural
limits might be obtained by tracing the river Oufa from its fource to its
junétion with the Belaia. Thence along the Kama to the Volga, which
- would conftitute a ftriking natural divifion, to the town of Sarepta ;
whence a fhort ideal line, the only one admitted in this delineation, wiil
lead due weft to the river Don, which would complete the unafcertained
boundary ; that on the north and weft of the Euxine being clear and
recife. tg /
M ANCIENT POPULATION. ] The ancient population of Europe confifted
of the Celts in the weft and fouth; the Fins in the north-eaft, and the
Laps or Laplanders, a diminutive race like the Samoieds of Afia, in the
furtheft north, and who feem to have enriched their original rude lan-
guage by adopting in a great meafure that of their more civilized neigh-
Bours the Fins. Thofe ancient inhabitants, who feem to have been
thinly fcattered, were driven ‘towards the weft and north by the Scy-
thians or Goths from Afia, whofe defcendants occupy the greater part
of Europe; by the Sarmatians or Slavonic tribes, alfo from Afia, the
anceftors of the Ruffians, Poles, &c. and who were accompanied by the -
Heruli, ufing what is now called the Lettic {peech, to be found in
Pruffia, Lithuania, Samogitia, Courland, and Livonia, being akin to
the Slavonic language *, yet with many fhades of diftin@tion. From
Africa the colony of Iberi, and northern Mauretani, paffed into Spain at
avery early period. The later acceffion of Hungarians and Turks from
Afia may likewife be,commemorated.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY.] The progreffive geography of Europe
will be more aptly illuftrated in the defcriptions of each kingdom and
ftate. Suffice it here to observe that the ableft modern geographers, not
stn D’Anville himfelf, have greatly erred in their views of the
ancient knowledge of Europe. Of Scandinavia the ancients only knew
the fouthern part. as far asthe lakes of Weter and Wener. The Roman
thips explored the fouthern thores of the Baltic as far as the river Rubo
or the weftern Dwina, a1d difcovered the names of feveral tribes along
the fhores; but of the central parte of Germany. it is evident from the
maps of Ptolemy that they had no juit ideas: fo that the tribes which
he enumerates may be more juftly affigned to the northern parts along
the Baltic, or to the fouthern on the Jefe of the Danube. The Carpa-
thian or Sarmatian mountains were well known, but the line of 50’ or
52° of north latitude muft confine the ancient knowledge in the north-
eaft, A fingularity in the ancient defcriptione has often mifled: for as
the mountains in the favage ftate of Europe were crowned or accompae
nied with forefts, the fame term was ufed in feveral barbarous languages
to exprefs either ; fo that the ancients often place important mountaina.
where the hand of nature had only planted large forefts. This remark,
® Took’s View of Ruffia, i, 455.
B3 becomes
EUROPE.
becomes effential in the comparifon of ancient and modern geography,
The Riphean mountains are vainly fuppofed to have been the Uralian
chain, which were to the ancients hid in the profoundeft. darknefs, in.
ftead of a large foreft runniny from eaft to weit. ‘Ihe Sevo Mons of
Pliny, which he pofitively allfaus to the north of Germany, though
geographers in direét oppofition to his text transfer it to Norway, a
region almoft as unknown to the ancients as America, muft be regarded
as a vait foreft extending to fome promontory; and the Venedici
Montes of Ptolemy are in the like predicament, for modern know.
ledge evinces that no fuch mountains exift. Of all fciences perhaps
geography has made the moft flow and imperfect progrefs; and the
firit reftorers of it place at random many grand features of nature,
inftead of purfuing the recent and juft plan of giving an exact delinea.
tion of the country, and afterwards exploring the real extent of ancient
knowledge.
‘ Reticion.] The Chriftian religion prevails throughout Europe ex.
cept in Turkey, where however at leaft one-half of the inhabitants ars
attached to the Greek church. Wherever the Chriftian faith has pene-
trated, knowledge, induftry, and civilization have followed : among the
barbarous tribes in the north the progrefs was unhappily flow, Scandi-
navia remaining Pagan till the eleventh century ; and fome Slavonic
tribes on the fouth of the Baltic till the thirteenth ; nay, it is not above
a century fince the Laplanders were converted by miffions from Dens
mark. ‘The two grand diftin@tions are catholics and proteftants : the
former ip the fouth, where the paffions are more warm and the imagina-
tion more delighted with fplendour ; the latter in the north, where the
fatisfaction of the judgement predominates.
This univerfality of the Chriftian religion has been followed by another
f{uperlative advantage, that of conftituting all Europe, as it were, into
one republic, fo that any ufeful difcovery made in one ftate paffes to the
reft with celerity. In this refpe€t Europe has been compared to ancient
Greece ; and it is to be hoped that Ruffia will not prove another Ma-
cedon.
Curmate.] This fair portion of the globe is chiefly fituated in the
temperate zone, if fuch diftinétions have not vanifhed from geography,
fince modern difcoveries have evinced, that the climate often depends on
local caufes ; that the Alps in a fouthern latitude prefent mountains of
ice unknown in Lapland; that the torrid zone abounds with water and
habitations, and may perhaps contain mountains covered with fnow. Yet
freedom from the exceffive heats of Afia and Africa has contributed to
the vigour of the frame, and the energy of the mind.
INLAND SEAS.] Ina general view of Kurope one of the mof ftriking
and interefting features is the number and extent of the inland feas ; juitly
regarded as chief caufes of the extenlive induitry and civilization, and
confequent fuperiority to the other grand divilions of the globe. Had
Africa been interfected by a large into fea from the weit, it is probable
that the bleflings of induftry would have been widely fpread. Among
inland feas the Mediterranean is juftly pre-eminent, having been the
centre of civilization to ancient and modern Europe. The columns of Her-
cules marked its weftern boundary; being the mountain or rock of Abyla,
in Africa, now c¢alled Ceuta, and Kalpe in Spain, the Gibraltar of modern
fame. The length of the Mediterranean is about 2000 miles to its farthett
extremity in Syria; but in ancient maps the length has been extended
to about 2500 miles. On its northern fide open two large gulfs, that of
Venice and the Archipelago ; the former being the Adriatic, the ai
1
the
0)
Pt
phe
the
Eu
bea
abo
tide
to 1
the
Adi
opp
whic
are t
thar]
cora
plant
reat
in th
of 6c
office
and {
from
count
- of m
ftyled
the ft
-
ealled
from
man {
wards
is the
to De
is div
Finlay
north¢
on the
feafo
not toa
about
ography,
e Uralian
knefs,. in-
» Mons of
r, though
Jorway, a
» regarded
Venedici
‘mm know.
-s perhaps
; and the
af nature,
& delinea-
of ancient
“urope ex-
bitants ars
1 has pene-
among the
w, Scandi-
1e Slavonic
s not above
from Dene
{tants ; the
he imagina-
_ where the
1 by another
were, into
affes to the
d to ancient
nother Ma-
uated in the
geography,
) depends on
ountains of
h water and
fnow. Yet
ntributed to
of ftriking
feas ; jultly
lization, and
rlobe. Had
t is probable
d. Among
g been the
mins of Her-
ck of Abyla,
ar of modern
to its fartheft
hen extended
ulfs, that of
ic, the latter
1¢
EUROPE. 5
the Egean fea of the ancients. From this laft a ftrait called the Hellef-
ont conducts to the fea of Marmora, the claffical Propontis: and an-
other now ftyled the ftraix of Conitantinople, the ancient Thracian Bof-
horus, leads to the Euxine or Black fea; which to the north prefents
the shallow Palus Mceotis, or fea of Azof, the utmoft maritime limit of
Europe in that quarter. This wide expanfe of the Mediterranean is
beautifully fprinkled with iflands, and environed with opulent coatts,
abounding with the moft fublime and picturefque features of nature :
tides are not perceivable except in the narroweft {traits ; but according ~
to naturalifts there is a current along the Italian fhore from the weft to
the eaft, and towards the African coalt in an oppofite direGtion. In the
Adriatic the current runs north-weft along Dalmatia and returns by the
oppolite fhore of Italy. “The Mediterranean abounds with fifh, many of
which are little known in more northern latitudes. The chief fitheries
are thofe of the tunny, of the fword-fifh, and of the fea-dog, a {pecies of
fhark, and of the diminutive anchovy. It is alfo the chief feminary of
coral, now known to be the work of marine infeéts. This fuppofed
plant is of three colours, the red, the vermilion, and the white ; and its
greateft height is about eleven inches, It is equally hard _in the fea and
in the air ; and is generally brought up by a kind of net from the depth
of 60 to 125 feet. T'o enumerate and afcertain fhoals and rocks is the
office of the hydrographer ; but fifhing banks are of general importance,
and fome are found near Sicily. The Black fea is faid to derive its name
from its black rocks or dangerous navigation; but it is difficult to ac-
count for fuch terms often derived from the fertile and fuperttitious fancy
- of mariners. The fea of Azof is polluted with mud, whence it was
ftyled Palus, or a marfh, by the ancients; it is united to the Euxine by
the ftrait of Caffa, the ancient Cimmerian Bofphorus.
The fecond grand inland fea of Europe is the Baltic, by the Germans
ealled the Eaftern fea; whence the Eafterlings of Englifh hiftory, people
from the fhores of the baltic. This extenfive inlet opens from the Ger-
man fea by a gulf pointing N. E. called the Skager Rack ; and after-
wards paffes fouth in. what is called the Cattegat, to the S. E. of which
is the Sound of Elfinore, a ftrait where veflels pay a tribute of courtefy
to Denmark. The Baltic afterwards f{preads widely to the N. E. and
is divided into two extenfive branches called the gulphs of Bothnia and
Finland, both covered or impeded with ice for four or five months of the
northern winter. Ancient hiftorians even report that wolves have pafled
on the ice from Norway to Jutland ; and if veracious the rigour of the .
feafons muft have greatly abated. The greateft depth of this fea is faid
not to exceed fifty fathoms. Swedifh naturalifts pronounce that it lofes
about four feet in extent in the courfe of a century ; and that the water
does not contain above one-thirtieth part of falt, whereas other fea-
water often holds a tenth: this frefhnefs they impute to the quantity of
ice; and they alfo affert, that when the north wind blows, the waters
become fo frefh that they may even be employed for domettic ufes. Tides
are unknown, and the fifh are few.
The third and laft inland fea of Europe is that called the White Sea
in the north of Ruffia, more known in Europe, and particularly to
Englifh enterprize, before the commerce of Archangel was fupplanted
by that of Peterfburgh. To Oder, in the reign of the great Alfred, it
was known by the name of the Qven fea; and the Icelandic writers
ftyled it the tea of Ganviik, on the fhore of which was their Biarmia,
‘he White Sea contains a number of fmall iflands ; but the accounts yet
given have been brief and unfatisfactory,
B4 Among
EUROPE.
Among the other maritime divifions may be named the German fea,
{fo called becaufe it wateys the weftern fhores of ancient Germany, from
the Rhine to the extremity of Jutland. It is now often-ftyled, with fuf-
ficient impropriety, the North fea, a term probably adopted by us from
the Duteh, It may be regarded as a part of the Atlantic ocean, ter-
thinating at the ftraits of Dover ; whence the Britifh Channel extends to
the weft. The bay of Bifcay is another large inlet of the Atlantic. The
Briftol Channel is rather the eftuary or wide frith of the Severn. Be-
tween Great Britain and Ireland are St. George’s Channel on'the fouth ;
the Irifh fea in the center, which leads to the North Channel. That
part of the Atlantic which paffes between Scotland and the extreme
range of the weftern ifles from Barra to Leuis has received no diftine
appellation, though it may be aptly ftyled the Hebudian Channel. To
the north of Scotland is the Deucaledonian fea of the ancients ;_ which
being confidered as extending into and throughout the Baltic was alfo
ftyled the Sarmatian.
To the north of Europe is the Arétic ocean, the difmal and folitary
refervoir of myriads of miles of ice, the very fkirts of which, floating in
enormous mountains, crowned with brilliant pinnacles of every hue, de-
light the eye and appal the heart of the mariner,. Yet this enormous
watte is in the hand of Providence a fertile field of provifions for the hu-
man race. Here the vaft battalions of herrings feem to feek a refuge
from numerous foes, and to breed their millions in fecurity. About the
middle of winter emerging from their retreat they fpread in three divi-
fions ; one towards the weft, which covers the fhores of America as .far
as the Chefapeak and Carolina, while another more minute fquadron
affes the ftrait between Afia and America, and vilits the coafts of Kam.
Fhintha. The moft memorable divifion reaches Iceland about the begin-
ning of March, in a clofe phalanx of furprifing depth, and fuch extent that
the furface is fuppofed to equal the dimenfions of Great Britain and Ireland.
They are however fubdivided into numberlefs columns of five or fix miles
in length and three or four in breadth, followed by numerous fea fowl,
and perceivable by the rippling of the water and a brilliant reflexion like
that of arainbow. In April or May the vanguard of thofe allotted to
the Britifh dominions reaches Shetland, and the grand body arrives in
June ; towards the end of which month and through that of July they
are in the greateft perfection, a circumftance well known to the Dutch
fifhers, who then caught that fuperior fort which formed the grand fource
of the wealth of the United Provinces. From Shetland one divifion pro-
ceeds towards the eaft as far as Yarmouth, where they appear in OGober.
The other brigade paffes to the weft along both fhores of Ireland. A
few ftragglers are found at irregular periods, having proceeded beyond
their powers of return; but it is generally credited that millions regain
the Arétic ocean and depofit their {pawn about the month of O@ober.
To enumerate the {maller gulfs, the ftraits, and other minute diver-
fities of the feas, either in a Eble feries of names, or in a dry arithme-
tical table, would be fuperfluous, as they are beft ftudied in the maps,
and as that mode of communicating fcience is perhaps of all others the
most uncouth and repulfive, As well might hiftory be ftudied by the
barren repetition of a hundred names of ftotelined and warriors. But
this account of the European feas muft not be clofed without a few brief
hints on a fubjeét generally ag Soa: in works of this nature, the large
banks or comparative fhoals, fuppofed to be ridges of fubmarine moun-
tains, and which being frequently the refort of cod and other tifh, invite
the attention of national induftry. The Goodwin fands, off the coaft of
Kent,
Kent
but
lent
five ]
twelv
towa:
bank
don \
the fl
the r
Lemc
ealt o
Jutlar
moutl
Th
miles
extent
diftan
acrofs
trofe ]
the Li
fevent
bank ¢
In t
ferved
tiderat
other {
Riv
under |
Wolg:
next in
the El
by the
Swede
are, wi
defcrip
accoun
will be
Gov
fidered
2. Ab
narchie
Since t
{carcel
hereditz
ng ele
a fembl
under t
ARR
plained
fions, c
firft, fe
portion¢
tereft
more ju
‘man fea,
ny, from
with fuf-
y us from
cean, ter-
xtends to
ttic. The
ern. Be-
he fouth ;
el. That
> extreme
no diftine
nnel. To
33 which
: was alfo
nd folitary
floating in
y hue, de-
; enormous
for the hu-
k a refuge
About the
three divi-
rica as far
e f{quadron
ts of Kam-
- the begin-
extent that
and Ireland.
or fix miles
s fea fowl,
Hexion like
allotted to
> arrives in
July they
the Dutch
rand fource
ivifion pro-
in October.
reland. A
Hed beyond
lions regain
Oétober.
inute diver-
ry arithme-
the maps,
others the
died by the
riors. But
a few brief
, the large
brine moun
tifh, invite
he coaft of
Kent,
EUROPE. 9
Kent, are rather dangerous to the mariner_than inviting to the :
but on the coaft of Holland there are many banks which Rani ona
lent fifh, as turbot, foal, plaicegg&c. Further to the north is the exten-
five Dogger-bank, ftretching (Buth-caft and north-weft ; beginning about
twelve leagues from Flamborough head, and extending near 72 leagues
towards the coaft of Jutland. Between the Dogger and ‘the Well °
bank te the fouth are the Silverpits of the mariners, which fupply Lon-
don with cod, a fifth which loves the deep water near the banks, while
the flat fith delight in the thallows. Near the Dogger-bank was fought
the noted engagement with the Dutch in 1781. The Ore and the
Lemon lie between thefe banks and the Britifh fhores. To the north-
eait of the Dogger-bank is the Hornriff, a narrow ftrip extending to
Jutland: the J utts-riff is a fand-bank, ftretching like a crefcent from the
mouth of the Baltic into the German fea.
The Mar-bank begins oppofite to Berwick, but is only about fifteen
miles in length. Further to the eaft extends the Long Fortys, of great
extent, from Buchan Nefs to Newcattle, and from 4o to 100 miles
diftant from the fhore. From the coaft of Buchan a bank alfo reaches
acrofs the German fea towards the Jutts-riff. What are called the Mon-
trofe Pits, as being in the latitude of that town, though to the eaft of
the Long Fortys, are hollows from three to four miles in diameter, from
feventy to one hundred fathom deep, with a foft muddy bottom, in a
bank of gravel about fifty miles long, under forty fathom of water.
In the open Atlantic the largeft bank is that of Newfoundland, re-
Maa a the defcription of the American feas ; but there is a cons
u ne na ae to the weft of the Hebudes abounding with cod and
Rivers AND MouNTAINS.] The chief rivers of Eur eferi
under the refpeCtive eatehee through which they aoe, OF he ne
Wolga far the greater part is included in Europe: the Danube is the
next in-fame ; and is followed by the Dneiper or Nieper, the Rhine, and
the Elbe. The moft elevated mountains are the Alps, which are followed
by the Pyrenees and the extenfive ridge which divides Norwa » foi
Sweden. The Carpathian mountains, and the chain of Emineh or Tihs
are, with the Appenines, of inferior extent and height. In the particular
defcriptions, thefe grand and immoveable features of nature, which un
accountably have only attracted due attention within thefe few year ‘
will be found to be illuftrated as far as the materials would permit i i
GovernMents.] The kingdoms and {tates of Europe ma be con
fidered, 1. As defpotic monarchies, as thofe of Ruffia and Turke =
2. Abfolute monarchies, as Spain, Denmark, &c.: or, 3. Limited i .
narchies, as the empire of Germany, kingdom of Great Britain ho
Since the fall of Venice, and the fubverfion of Swifferland and Holland,
fcarcely an example occurs of permanent and fixed ariftocracy, or the
hereditary government of nobles. Of democracy, or, more ferieth fpeak ,
a ae er cw afew cities and fome Swifs cantons may facie
ce; while France i ili i
inde i‘ an vias ene the prefent hour is a military defpotifm
ARRANGEMENT. ] According to the plan of this w r
plained, the various ftates of Wurspe wil be gringo 3 eta i
bets confidering them, according to their real confequence, as of the
irft, fecond, or third order ; and each will be treated ai 1 h ;
portioned to its weight in th liti Naaaleuteds int
Pry dein Gane g i . political {cale, and the confequent in.
corer aiken a mall ftate may indeed fometimes excite a
more j ofity than one of larger dimenfions ; but fuch contiderationg
are
10 - EUROPE.
are foreign to an exact fyflem of geography, detailed in a precife order
of topics, and extended with impartial views over the whole circle of
human affairs. Foreigners may objet that too much fpace is allotted
to the Britifh dominions ; but the fame objections might extend to every
fyftem ancient and modern, as the authors have always enlarged the
’ defcription of the countries in which they wrote. His native country
ought alfo to he the chief fubject of every reader ; nor can mych ufeful
knowledge (for our knowledge chiefly fprmgs from comparifon) be
inftituted concerning foreign regions till after we have formed an intimate
acquaintance with our native land. It will alfo be underftood, that
though no point of {cience is more fimple or clear than the arrangement
of ftates according to their feparate orders at a given period, yet it
would be alike idle and prefumptuous to decide the precife rank of a
ftate in each order; for inttance, whether France or Ruffia be the more
powerful, This part of the arrangement mutt therefore be eleétive ; and
it is fufficient that the ftates of the fame order be treated with a fimilar
length of defcription.
t the beginning of the nineteenth century the European ftates com-
prized in the firft order are: 1. The united kingdoms of Great Britain
and Ireland: 2. France: 3. Ruflia: 4. The Austrian dominions ;
5. Thofe of Pruffia: 6. Spain: 7. Turkey: which laft cannot be fo
juitly reduced to the fecand order; for though perhaps approaching its
fall, ftill it boafts the name and weight of an empire.
Under the fecond order have been arranged: 1. Holland or the
United Provinces; 2. Denmark: 3. Sweden: 4. Portugal: 5. Swif-
ferland. Inthe third are confidered the chief ftates of Germany, that
labyrinth of geography, and thofe of Italy. ‘The kingdoms of Sicily
and Sardinia might perhaps, if entire and unfhaken, afpire to the fecond -
order: and an equal {tation might be claimed by the junétive EleGtorate
Palatine and Bavarian, and by that of Saxony. But as fuch ftates only
form rather fuperior divifions of Germany and Italy, it appeared more
advifeable to confider them in their natvral intimate connexion with thefe
countries,
This explanation being premifed, the firft defcription fhall be that of
the Britifh dominions.
7
HUI Ws 2! F999 CpICUC
2 eee
w
Cac
: eee
i ae
Me
PAs W
ek ia
arco ~
1 Ne,
rr.
_ jd pawn
ENGLAND.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL OR PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY.
Names. — Extent. — Original Population. — Roman, Saxon, and Norman
Ceography. — Hitorical Epochs,and Antiquities.
1p Phenicians are generally fuppofed to have difcovered
Nawes. ] T Great Britain and Treland at pitt of very early antiqui-
ty ; and fome fuppofe that the name of Britain originates from a Phenician
word, while others with more probability infer it to have been an indigenal
term derived from the Brets, tribes of which appellation may be traced
in Gaul and Scythia. Among the firft objects of the Thevelse .
grcourle
ecife order
> circle of
is allotted
id to every
nlarged the
ive country
nych ufeful
rarifon ) be
an intimate
ftood, that
rrangement
riod, yet it
rank of a
ye the more
leétive 3 and
th a fimilar
——
IID Ms Bl WSL epNpOUT
{tates com-
reat Britain
dominions ;
nnot be fo
roaching its
land or the
al: 5. Swil-
rmany, that
ns of Sicily
to the fecond »
re Electorate
h ftates only
ppeared more
n with thefe
bil be that of
yong pet yMoy
Yenc Hu
a
, and Norman
Se
ve difcovered
carl antiqui-
m a Phenician
n an indigenal
ay be traced
Phenician in-
tercourle
pure |
MEVLING SVAN |
' -
ae... =x) ae
= a i Ss Mr /\ 4
Rackiairn {. Killivcor Drsee /
. 3 f\
. - aad a poy ‘
é ‘S, Pagnel Ty
g S 2 Bobury — ao
(GREAT BRITAIN
| and
~ IRELAWD. c '
Bes na
ager EDIXBVEG — -
+ -
<ipoe
Dasse > .
Fanplecroan
| ‘ea
: |
|
|
|
|
miles in
North F
length
Engla
by the Jj
the nort
line falli
England
ulation
fauaré m
ORIGI
er to
elfh,
arrived fr
by the C
wards pr
the mode:
Germany
the weft,
hefore th
German «
Thofe Be
nation ; f
“itinguifl
language
or Danith
In the.
Romans,
forgotten
to lees i
The Jute:
about the
447 the &
commence
The fixth
were incre
ance of tl
name in th
valiant Ic;
fion of Ni
almoft whi
¢conquelts
ENGLAND.
was tin, whence the Greek name of Caffiterides or the ‘iflands
pian i name which in its firft acceptation feems to have extended
to Great Britain and Ireland, though afterwards confined to the ifles
of Scilly, wher: the metal does not appear to have been traced in
n times.
ec name of Anglia or England is well known to have originated
from the Angles, a nation of the Cimbric Cherfonefe or modern Jut-
land, who fettled in the northern parts in the fixth century. The eccle-
fiattical hiftory of Beda, .written in that part of the country which was
poffeffed by the Angli, feems to have contributed greatly to the extenfion
and genera acceptation of the modern name.
ExTenT.] The ifland of Great Britain extends from fifty to fifty-eight
anda half degrees of north latitude, being about 500 geographical
milesin length. Its greateft breadth, from the Land’s_ End to the
North Foreland in Kent, 320 geographical miles. In Britifh miles the
length may be computed at 580, and the breadth at 370.
England is bounded on the eaft by the German ocean; on the fouth
by the Englifh channel; on the weft by St. George’s Channel ; on
the north by the Cheviot Hills, by the paftoral river Tweed, and an ideal
line falling fouth-weft down to the Firth-of Solway. The extent of
England and Wales in fquare miles is computed at 58,335 5 and the po-
ulation being eftimated at 9,500,000, the number of inhabitants to a
Fauare mile will be about 162.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The earlieft inhabitants of England are fup-
ofed to have been the Gael or Southern Celts, called Guydels by the
Welth, who regard them as their predeceflors. Thofe tribes feem to have
arrived from the neareft fhores of T’rance and Flanders, and were followed :
by the Cymri or Cimbri from the fame regions whence the Angles after-
wards proceeded. But the Cimbri were northern Celts, the anceftors of
the modern Welfh. The Scythians or Goths from Afia having feized on
Germany and a great part of Gaul, gradually repelling the Celts towards
the weft, appear to have fent colonies into England three or four centuries
hefore the Chriftian era ; for Cafar found many tribes of the Belgx, a
German or Gothic nation, eftablifhed on the fouth and eaft of Britain.
Thofe Belge may be juftly regarded as the chief anceftors of the Englith
nation ; for the Saxons, Angles, anc other northern invaders, though of
“iftinguifhed courage, were inconfiderable in numbers, and the Englifh
language bears more affinity to the Frific and Dutch than to the Jutlandic
anifh.
In the courfe of four ccaturies of fubjetion to the dominion of the
Romans, even the Belgic colonies, unaccuftomed to’ the ufe of arms, had
forgotten their former valour. Prefled by ferocious invaders, they feem
to Tine invited to their affiftance dangerous allies from the continent.
The Jutes arrived in the year 449, and founded the kingdom of Kent
about the year 460; they alfo took poffeflion of the ifle of Wight. In
447 the Saxons firft appear, and the kingdom of the South Saxons
commences at that epoch. The Welt Saxons arrived in the year 495.
The fixth century was confiderably advanced when thofe barbaric colonies
were increafed by the Eaft Saxons in the year 527; out the firft appear-
ance of the great branch of the Angles, who were to perpetuate their
name in the country at large, did not occur till the year 547, when the
valiant Ida led his troops to Bernicia, The Eaft Angles taking poffef-
fion of Norfolk in the year 575, the fouthern and eaftern coafts were
almoft wholly in the power of the invaders, who, foon extending their
¢conquelts into the interior of the country, founded in the year 585 the
5 ° kingdom
or
1zZ ENGLAND.
kingdom ‘of Mercia, the laft of the Heptarchy. Bede pronounces
Mercia to have been an Anglic kingdom ; and if fo, the Angles might
perhaps have equalled in number the Saxons themfelves.
PRoGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The knowledge of the progreflive geo
aphy of any country is indifpenfably. neceflary for the elucidation of its
iftory. In the Roman period England was divided into the following
large provinces. each go
Britannia Prima, the whole fouthern part as far as the mouths of the after the
Severn and the Thames. ;
" Britannia Secunda, Modern Wales.
Flavia Cefarienfis, from the Thames to the Humber.
Maxima Ceefarienfis, from the Humber to the T'yne, from the Merfey
to the Solway, :
A more detailed account of the Roman divifions of England properly
belongs to ancient geography ; and the curious reader may be referred
to the works of Horfley and Roy, authors of deferved eftimation.
Of the Saxon geography an idea may be derived from the following table.
1. Kent comprehended the county of Kent.
2. Suffex, or the South { Suffex.
Saxans. Surrey.
Norfolk.
Suffolk. : : : Six northe
Cambridgefhire, with the ifle of Ely, counties
Cornwall
3. Eaft Angles,
Devonhhire,
Sumerfet, Four bord
‘on Wal
4e Weffex, or the Weft
Saxons.
Lancahhire,
York fhire.
Cumberland.
Weftmoreland.
Northumberland, and the parts of Scotland
to the Frith of Edinburgh.
5 Northumberland,
Twelve mid
G. Effex, or the Eaft
Saxons, Hertfordfhire in part.
.{ Gloucefter.
Hereford.
Warwick.
Rutland. Bight eafter
Northampton.
Lincoln.
y. Mercia. Huntingdon,
Three fouth.
eaftern
Stafford.
ENGLAND.
Salop.
Nottingham.
The reft of Hertford,
The divifion into fhires is faid to have been imiftituted by the great
Alfred. ‘Thefe departments are alfo ftyled counties, as having betn
each governed by a Count in the Saxon times, ftyled Ealdorman, and
after the Danifh conqueft called Earl, from the Danifh Iarl, implying a
great man. The dignity and title becoming hereditary, the government
of the county devolved upon the Earl’s deputy the Shire-reeve, theriff
or manager of the fhire. Yorkshire being very extenfive it was divided
into three parts called in Saxon trithings, as a farthing is a fourth part,
and now corruptly called Ridings. Nice
England proper is divided into forty counties, and the principality of
Wales into Evdlve, thus making the whole number of counties in South
Britain fifty-two ; of which the following is a lift, together with their
refpective chief towns.
Numbar of Inhabitants
according to the late Chief Towas,
Enumeration.
Northumberland 157,101 © Newcattle -
Cumberland 117,230 Carlifle
Six northern Durham 160,361 Durham
counties Yorkthire 858,892 York
Weftmoreland 41,617 Appleby
{ Lancafhire 672,731 Lancafter
Chefhire 191,751 Chefter
Four bordering J Shropfhire 167,639 Shrewfbury
* on Wales Herefordfhire 89,191 Hereford
Monmouthhhire 45,582 Monmouth
Nottinghamfhire 140,350 Nottingham
Derbythire 161,142 Derby.
Staffordthire 239,153 Stafford
Leicefterfhire . 130,081 Lieicefter
suuaadthine : 16,356 Okeham
; Northamptonfhire 141, Northampton
Twelve midland Warwickihire ahh ibo Warwick
Worcetterfhire 139333 Worcefter
Gloucefterfhire 250,809 Gloucefter
Oxfordfhire . 109,620 Oxford
Buckinghamfhire 107,444 Aylefbury
Bedfordfhire 63,393 Bedford
Lincolnthire 208,557 Lincoln
Huntingdonfhire 37,568 Huntingdon
Cambridgefhire 89,346 Cambridge
Norfolk 273371 Norwich
Suffolk 210,401 Ipfwich
Effex 226,407 Chelmsford
Hertfordthire 97°577 Hertford
Middlefex _ 818,129* London
Three fouth- } Surrey 269,043 . Guildford
Eight eaftern
eaftern Kent 307,624 Maidftone
Suffex ‘159311 Lewes
‘if * Exclufive of the capital.
ENGLAND.
Number of Inh.bitants
according to the late Chief Towne.
Enumeration. -
Berk fhire 1cg,215 Reading
Wiltfhire 185,107 + Salifbury
Four fouthern Hampfhire . 21 9:6 56 Winchelter
Dorfetthire 115,319 Dorchefter
Somerfetfhire , 273,750 Taunton
sia fouth- Devonfhire 343,001 Exeter
bil bi Cornwall 188,269 Launcefton
Flint fhire 39,622 Flint
| Denbighhhire 60,352 Denbigh
a: Caernarvonfhire 41,52” Caernarvon
®ix, North Wales 4 Anglefey 33,800 Beaumaris
Merionethfhire 29,506 Lala
Montgomeryfhire 47,978 Montgomery
Radnorfhire 19,050 = Prefteign
| Cardigantir . 42010 ae ks
Re. ¢ j} Pembrokefhire 9280 Pembroke
Sha TaN Ns } Caermarthenhhire fay Caermarthen
- | Brecknockfhire 31,633 Brecknock
{ Glamorganthire 71,525 Cacrdiff
It is alfo generally believed that Alfred founded the fubdivifions of
counties called Hundreds and 'T'ythings, now feldom mentioned except
in Iggal proceedings and: in topographical defcriptions. ‘The Hundred
probably contained one hundred farms, while the T'ything was reftricted
to ten.
In the Norman period of Englith hiftory few alterations of confequence
appear in the geography. Cumberland and Weftmoreland were wreited
from the Scets, and the provinces north of the Humber, which had main.
tained a kind of independence after the extinction of the Danifh king.
dom of Northumbria, were completely incorporated with the monarchy.
On the weft Henry I. about the year 1120 having conquered a part of
Wales, invited and eftablifhed a Flemifh colony in Pembrokefhire, and
one or two others of the moft fouthern counties, which afterwards be.
came remarkable for induftry. The fybfequent conquelt of Wales by
oe I. and its gradual affociation with England, are fuffictently
nown.
Historicar Kpocus.] Geography has been ftyled one of the eyes of
hiftory, a fubfervience to which ftudy is undoubtedly one of its grand ob-
jects ; but it would at the fame time be foreign to its nature to render ita
vehicle of hiftory. The proper and peculiar fubjects of geographical
: {cience are fo ample, and often attended with fuch difficult refearch, that
it becomes equally rafh and unneceflary to wander out of its appropriated
domain. In this work therefore it is only propofed briefly to mention the
grand _hiftorical epochs of nations, and thofe events which have altered
their boundaries and geographical relations.
1. The population of England by the Celts,
2. The Be gic colonies, who introduced agriculture. ;
3- The Roman conqueft. Britain was little more than feen by Julius
Cefar. "The Roman conqueft began in the reign of Claudius, and in
that of Domitian the: Roman Eagle had been difplayed as far as the
Grampian mountains.
4 The arrival of the Saxens and Angles in the figth century.
5. The
a
tion of §
cafter may
9. The
10. Th
11. Th
12. Th
fingular nc
ANTIAL
conneéted
- revolutions
The Englit
primitive C
of the Ror
6. Norman
throw muck
curious in
geographer,
Thofe of
favage natio:
mains. Son
the Druidic
&c. More pr
ated near the
ment, but faj
French coaft
alfo occur in
erection is fo
the name of
ment, bein
will be found
autiquaries, il
with difappoij
are however y
There appear
together by a
chiefs might
circle confitts
the highelt ard
Ing of five tri]
and inclofing
flat ftone comt
throne or feat
the north-eaft
with a mound,
were fometimes
able diftance tq
oa very exte
effaced ‘a the
males of ‘the
ons of
except
‘undred
Atricted
quence
wrefted
d main-
kings
narchy.
part of
ire, and
ards be-
Vales by
ciently
° eyes of
rand ob-
nder it 2
’ raphical
rch, that
opriated
ntion the
altered
by J ulius
5, and in
hr as the
“5. The
ENGLAND. ts
4. The Danifh conqueft, A.D. 1016. The Danifh monarchs of
England were Canute, Harold, and Hardicanute; but the f{ceptre returned
to the Saxon line A.D. 1042.
6. The Norman conqueft, A.D. 1066. .
7. The great charter granted by John at Runnymede.
8, Not to mention the conqueft of Wales and the temporary fubjuga.
tion of Scotland, the civil wars between the houfes of York and Lan-
cafter may be regarded as the next memorable epoch. ;
g. The reformation introduced by Henry VIII. and Elizabeth.
to. The civil wars under Charles I.
11. The Revolution of A.D. 1688.
12. The war with the American colonies forms not only. an epoch of
fingular novelty, but of the moft important confequences.
Antiquitis.] The ancient monuments of a country are intimately
conneéted with the chief epochs of its hiftory, and particularly with the
_ revolutions it has undergone by foreign conqueft or new population.
The Englifh antiquities fall into fix divifions. 1. Thofe belonging to the
primitive Celtic inhabitants. 2. Thofe of the Belgic colonies. 3. Thofe
of the Romans. 4. Thofe of the Saxons. 5. Reliques of the Danes.
6. Norman monuments. Few of thofe remains, it muft be confeffed,
throw much light upon hiftory ; but many of them being interefting and
curious in themfelves, they deferve the attention of the traveller and
geographer.
Thofe of the firft Celtic inhabitants were probably, as ufual among
favage nations, con{truated of wood, and.of courfe there can be no re-
mains. Some rude barrows and heaps of fton¢s may perhaps belong to
the Druidic tribes, but Stonehenge, the large Barrows or tumuli, &c.
&e. more probably belong to the Belgic colonics, Stonehenge is fitu-
ated near the capital of the ancient Belge, and there is a fimilar monu-
ment, but faid to.be of far greater extent, near Vannes, a town on the
French coaft which was poileffed by the Belge. Similar monuments
alfo occur in Denmark and Sweden, and in Iceland even the date of
erection is fometimes afcertained, thefe circles being familiarly known by
the name of Dom/-ringr, that is literally Deom-ring or Circle of Judg-
ment, being the folemn places where courts were held. Yet Stonehenge
will be found on infpection to fall fhort of the ridiculous exaggerations of
autiquaries, imprefling every traveller after the perufal of fuch accounts
with difappointed ideas of {mallnefs and waat of importance. Such ideas
are however unjuit, as it is a noble and curious monument of early times.
There appear to be three principal cirches of ftones, the outer connected
together ee an uniform pavement as it were at the top, to which the
chiefs might afcend and fpeak to the furrounding crowd. A fecond
circle contifts of detached upright {tones about five feet in height, while °
the higheft are eighteen. ‘Within this is a grand oval, originally confift-
ing of five trilithons of two huge ftones crofled by another at the top
and inclofing fmaller ftones, which feem to have been feats, and a large
flat tone commonly called the altar, but which feems to have been the
throne or feat of judgment. There is befides a very high ftone, towards
the north-eaft or rifing fun, and near this a large flat ftome encompaffed
with a mound, which is probably the real altar on which human viétims
were fometimes facrificed. There are alfo two other ftones at a confider-
able diftance to the E. and W., and the whole feems‘to be in the midft
ofa very extenfive circle, marked by an earthen embankment almoit
effaced by the lapfe of years, and affording fufficient fpace for all the
males of the tribe or pation. The largeit flones are of filicious fand-
' ftone,.
16 ENGLAND.
ftone; but the altar, or rather throne, is a calcareous fand-ftone *. The
{maller ftones are of grunftein or hornblend mixed with felfpar. On its
firft erection the appearance mutt have been ftriking, the large ftones be.
ing of pure white and the fmaller black.
After the eftablithment of Chriftianity the circles of judgment, which
had been polluted with human facrifices and other pagan rites, were aban.
doned, and the great courts were held on what were called Moot-hills
or hills of meetiv x, many of which ftill exift in the Britith dominions and
in the Netherlands.
The Roman antiquities of England have been repeatedly illuftrated,
The greateft number of Roman infcriptions, altars, &c. has been found
in the north along the great frontier wall which extended from the weft.
ern fea to the eftuary of Tyne. ‘Fhe Roman roads were alfo ftrikin
monuments of their power. A grand trunk, as it may be called, to an.
ticipate the language of our inland navigations, paffed from the fouth to
the north, and another to the weit, with branches in almoft every direc.
tion that general convenience and expedition could require. What is
called the Watling-ftreet led from Richborough in Kent, the ancient
Rutupie, N. W. through London to Chefter. The Ermin-ftreet paffed
from London to Lidadley thence to Carlifle and into Scotland, the name
being fuppofed to. be corrupted from Herman, which means, warrior, as
_ the chief wars lay in the north. The Foffe way is fuppofed to have led
from Bath and the weltern regions N. E. till it joined the Ermin-ftreet,
The laft celebrated road was the Ilkenild, or Ikneld, fuppofed to have
extended from near Norwich §. W. into Dorfetthire +.
The Saxon antiquities in England are chiefly edifices, facred or fecu-
lar ; fome churches remain which were for the moft part conftruéted
in the Saxon period, and fome are extant of the tenth or perhaps the
ninth century. The vaults ereéted by Grimbald at Oxford in the
reign of Alfred are juftly efteemed curious relics of Saxon archite€ture.
Mr. King has ably illuitrated the remains of the Saxon caftles. The
oldeft feem to confift of one folitary tower, fquare or hexagonal: one
of the rudeft fpecimens is Coningfburg Caftle in Yorkfhire ; but as
that region was fubject to the Danes till the middle of the tenth century
it is probably Danifh. Among the fmaller remains of Saxon art may be
mentioned the fhrines for preferving relics, which fome fuppofe to prefent
the diminutive fudiments of what is {tyled the Gothic archite@ture ; and
the illuminated manufcripts, which often afford curious memorials of the
{tate of manners and knowledge. '
The Danifh power in England, though of confiderable duration in the
north, was in the fouth brief and tranfitory. The camps of that nation
were circular like thofe of the Belgz and Saxons, while thofe of Roman
armies are known by the f{quare arth : and it is believed that the only
diftin@ relics of the Danes are fome caftles to the north of the Humber
and a few ftones with Runic infcriptions.
The monuments ftyled Norman, rathet to diftinguifh their epochs than
from any information that Norman architects were employed, are reputed
to commence after the conqueft, and to extend to the fourteenth cen.
tury ; when what is called the rich Gothic began to appear, which in
the fixteenth century was fupplanted by the mixed ; and this in its turn
yielded to the Grecian. In general the Norman ftyle far exceeds the
Saxon in the fize of the edifices and the decoration of the parts. The
churches become more extenfive and lofty, and though the windows re
® Townfon's Tratts, 228. + Gough's Brit. Topog. i, 10.
tain
tain t
doors
mals |
or tor
courts
ditche
the cat
monun
and we
rally fi
next it
reat b
a with
into vai
note, w
College
The {p:
about t}
diminifh
Religion..
—Pop
and Re
Regio?
ASTIC
iftic of a
tremes, t
and defpo
people, pr
while the
other extre
the only 4
its ancient,
mark, Swe
of the cley
with fenat
bifhops are
bility. Ye
Lutheran.
Capined in
will be mo
Upon his
Henry VII
Next in dig
the firtt bei
England,
royal family
rovince, a
as alfo four
The
n its
es be-
which
aban-
t-hills
ns and
trated,
found
e welt.
triking
to an-
yuth to
r direc.
Vhat is
ancient
t paffed
ie name
rior, as
ave led
i-ftreet.
to have
or fecu-
ftructed
haps the
| in the
tecture,
may be
) prefent
hre ; and
ls of the
bn in the
ht nation
Roman
the only
FT umber
chs than
reputed
nth cen-
hich ia
its turn
eeds the
s. The
Hows Te
Oo
tain
ENGLAND. ' 9
tain the circular arch they are larger and more diverfified ; the circular
doors are feftooned with more freedom and elegance, and uncouth ani- .
mals begin to yield to wreaths of leaves and flowers, The folitary keep
or tower of the Saxon caftle is furrounded with a double wall, inclofing
courts or dwellings of large extent, defended by turrets and double
ditches, with a feparate watch-tower called the Barbican. Among others
the cathedrals of Durham and Winchefter may be mentioned as venerable
monuments of Anglo-Norman archite¢ture, and the caftles are numerous
and well known. What is called the Gothic or pointed arch is gene-
rally fuppofed to have firft appeared in the thirteenth century, and in the
next it became univerfal in religious edifices. The windows diffufed to
great breadth and loftinefs and divided into branching interftices, enrich.
ed with painted glafs, the cluftering pillars of exceffive height {preading
into various fret-work on the roof, conftitute, with decorations of {maller
note, what is called the rich Gothic ftyle, vifible in the Chapel of King’s
ian Cambridge, and many other grand {pecimens in this kingdom.
The ipire of thofe edifices correfponds with the reft, and begits
about the thirteenth century to rife boldly from the antient tower and
diminifh from the fight in a gradation of pinnacles and ornaments.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. —Ecclefiaftic Geography.—Government.—Judicature and Laws.
pay Sram hd — Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance
and Relations.
RELIGION AND ECCLESI- Oi Mae church of England is eftablifhed upon
ASTIC GEOGRAPHY. ] a mott peculiar bafis, and truly character-
iftic of a moderate and judicious nation. As in the political fyftem ex-
tremes, the ufual concomitart of inexperience, ave carefully avoided,
and defpotifm or anarchy from whatever fource, monareh, nobles, or
people, prevented as far as human wifdom can devife ; fo in the church,
while the papal power and other, catholic chains are profcribed, the
other extremes tending to loofe democracy are equally avoided. It is
the only reformed church which has retained the epifcopal form in
its ancient fplendour ; for though tp may alfo be found in Den-
mark, Sweden, Norway, &c. they are rather infpeCtors of the conduct
of the clergy and of the modes of education, than prelates endowed
with fenatorial rank and dignity. In England on the contrary, the
bifhops are peers of parliament, and have the ityle and importance of no-
bility. Yet the creed of the Englifh church 1s rather Calviniftic than
Lutheran. But the fpecial tenets of the Englith church are fufficiently
explained in the thirty-nine articles ; and a brief idea of its government
will be more pertinent to the prefent purpofe.
Upon his difpute with the pontiff to avoid any claims of fupcriority,
Henry VIII. Trine the title of fupreme head of the national church.
Next in dignity and power are the archbifhops of Canterbury and York,
the firft being ftyled Primate of all England, and the fecond Primate of
England. ‘The archbifhop of Canterbury precedes all perfons except the
royal family ; he has the power of probate of all teftaments within his
eo and of granting feveral difpenfations concerning benefices ; he
ya alfo four courts of radiciyuse, i of Arches, of Audiense, of Prero-
gative,
18 ENGLAND.
gative, end of Peculiars. In other refpetts the archiepifcopal office is
rather a dignity than a jurifdiction, and the primates rarely interfere in
any diocefes except their own. They are appointed by the king in the
fame manner as the bifhops, by what is called a Congé d’Elire, or leave
to eleét.
Upon any vacancy in dn epifcopal fee, the dean and chapter ane to
,the king, who returns a Congé d’Elire, naming the perfon to be chofen.
A chapter of the prebendaries is then fummoned by the dean, and they
are conftrained under the penalty of a premunire to elect the perfon no-
minated. The folemnity is completed by the royal affent under the great
feal, and by the confirmation and confecration performed by the metro-
politan or in hisname. The prelate afterwards pays homage to the king
for his temporalities, or the baronies connected with the fee ; and com-
pounds for the firft fruits, that is, the revenite of the firft year, which is
paid to the corporation for increafing the benefices of the poor clergy.
The omiffion of confecration is the only difference when a bifhop is tranf-
lated to another fee ; and when an archbifhop is nominated, the king ap-
points four or more bifhops to officiate at the confirmation.
The bifhop alone may ordain deacons and priefts, dedicate churches
and burial grounds, and adminifter confirmation. In former times epi-
{copal jurifdiGtion extended to the licenfing of phyficians, furgeons *, and
{choolmafters, and to the conjun@tion of {mall parifhes. At prefent it
chiefly embraces queftions of births, marriages, deaths, and teftaments,
and any delinquencies of the clergy’; to which body indeed their atten-
tion is. now chiefly confined, and they rarely, except in parliament, inter-
fere in {ecular fubje&s. The bifhop of Sodor and Man has no place m
parliament. Aili the other bifhops are barons and peers of the realm by
three different claims ; in right to the baronies attached to their fees, as
barons fummoned by writ, and as barons by patent, a form which accom.
panies their confecration. Their privileges approach the regal ; they are
‘fole judges in their own courts, and iffue writs in their own names, not in
the royal ftyle ufed by other courts. They can depute their authority,
which no other judge can ; and their epifcopal power of conferring: or-
ders, &c. may be exerted in any Chriftian country, while lay peers are
only acknowledged in the country whence they derive their dignities,
To pafs other more minute privileges, the bifhop of London, as prefiding
over the capital, has the precedence of all the others, and the colonies
are regarded as in his diocete. The fee of Durham conttitutes. a
country palatine, with great powers and. prerogatives: the authority
and patronage of the bifhop are of courfe very extenfive, and even the
‘king’s judges fit in his diocefe only by his permiffion. ‘The bifhop of
Winchefter is the third in dignity, but efteemed the firft in opulence,
as the large civil lit of Durham, while it adds power, diminifhes revenue.
Thefe three bifhops precede all the reft, who take place according to
the feniority of confecration. ‘
To every cathedral in England belong feveral.prebendaries as canons,
and a dean, fo ftyled, as is faid (Decanus) becaufe he anciently prefided
over ten canons. In the old quaint language he was called one of the
bifhop’s eyes, while the archdeacon who hal charge of the deacons - was
reputed the other. ‘The dean and chapter of prebendaries aflift the bifhop
in ecclefiaftic affairs. ‘The prebendaries are fo ityled from the prebend
or pars prabenda, a portion of land or income allotted to them ; and, with
* Even now any perfon obtaining a licence from the conrt of the bifhop of his diocefe
may prattile, and the archbifhop of Canterbury may confer a diploma of M. D.
° é
the
churel
for re}
reftrié
the co
canoni
requir
gyman
the car
If the
into fe
ing the
tg ent
the rep
fervice,
at Eatt
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plate o
now ap
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The
are free
office ci
poral ef
dred, or
Ecck
confifti
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liberate
Next
under th
tropolita
the arch
great hal
to plead,
himfelf, ;
and difpe
e 18
. in
the
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to
Yen,
they
| no-
reat
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king
com-
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roy.
wont
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irches
5 epi-
*, and
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ng or-
ers are
rnitiess
fiding
olonies
utes. a
hority
en the
op of
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ing to
anons,
efided
of the
ans - Was
bifhop
ebend
» with
diocefe
ee
‘the
ENGLAND. tg
the dean, forma body, college, or corporation ; and they have feveral
privileges fuperior to the common or minor canons. At the reformation
their falaries were moftly converted into money, but thofe of Durham pre-
ferred the ancient portions of land ; which having prodigioufly increafed
in value, they are now ftyled golden prebends, being worth from 8ool. to
12001. a year, while the bifhop out of goool. a year has to fupport a
great and unavoidable expenditure.
The next order is that of the arch-deacons, amounting in all to about
fixty ; their office is to infpe& the moveables of the churches, to reform
flight abufes, and to induct into benefices. Arch-priefts, who on the
Continent fhare the labours of the arch-deacon on a {maller fcale, being
fuperintendants over a few parifhes, were in England alfo ftyled rural
deans, a clafs ftill common in fome parts of England, where they nearly
fuperfede the arch-deacon in the duties of his office. Subdivifions of
government are fo much controuled by the very nature of human affairs,
that the power of the arch-prieft almoft correfponded with the Scotifh
prefbytery, while the provincial fynods are fimilar to bifhoprics,
OF the clergy in general, the loweft order is that of deacons, whofe
office formerly was to fuperintend the poor ; the ancient donations to the
church being always affigned in three divifions, one to the poor, another
for repairs, and the laft for the clergy. At prefent the deacon’s office is
reftricted to baptifm, to reading in the church, and affifting the prieft at
the communion by handing the cup only. Deacon’s orders cannot be
canonically received before the age of twenty-three years, thofe of a prieft
require twenty-four, and a bifhop mutt be thirty. The curate is a cler-
gyman appointed to officiate for another, and is fo named from his having
the care of fouls ; hence the French rather apply the term to the rector.
If the predial or great tythes of the parifh be impropriated, or converted
into fecular hands, the prieft is termed a vicar, a name originally imply-
ing that they were the vicarti, or deputies of the rector ; but if the tythes
be entire, the prieft is ftyled rector. The churchwardens fuperintend
the repairs and decorations of the church, and the requifites for divine .
fervice, and colle& the alms of the parifhioners ; they are annually elected
at Eafter, and have fometimes fidefmen, a kind of affiftants. The facrif-
tan, corruptly called fexton, ay the had the care of the furniture and
plate of the church ; and by a {till greater corruption the appellation is
now applied to the grave-digger, when it ought to have been conferred
on the parifh-clerk.
The clergy in general enjoy fome peculiar privileges. Their goods
are free from tolls in fairs or markets : they cannot be compelled to any
office civil or military ; they are only amerced accordiag tu their tem-
poral eftate : nor are they affeffed for a robbery committed i2 the hun-
dred, or for watching, warding, highways, &c. &c.
Ecclefiaftical courts ftill retain confiderable power : the convocation,
confifting of the archbifhops and bifhops, with a lower houfe of 150 mem-
bers, only meets for the fake of form ; but have not heen allowed to de-
liberate flnce the reign of Anne.
Next in dignity is the court of delegates, acting by a {pecial commiffion
under the great feal ; and to whom an appeal lies from the higheft me-
tropolitan court. The court of arches is fo ftyled becaufe it was held in
the arches of the church St. Mary-le-bowe, London, but now in the
great hall, Doctors Commons ; only dottors of the civil laws are allowed
to plead. The court of audience is always prefided by the archbifhop
himfelf, who decides any doubts concerning the admiflion to benefices
and difpenfation of the banns of matrimony.
C2 The
20 ENGLAND.
The next court is that of prerogative, which jadges of eftates fallen
by will, or inteftate ; the prerogative office is likewife in Doctors Com-
mons. The court of peculiars refers to feveral peculiar parifhes exempt
from the jurifdi€tion of the bifhops, but here. amenable : the judges are
fole and without jury. :
a ecclefiaftical geography of England may be feen in the following
table ;
Province of Canterbury.
The Archbifhop, Canterbury and part of Kent.
1. Bifhoprick of London, containmg Effex, Middlefex, and part of
Hertford.
2. Winchefter.—Surry, Hamphhire, Ifles of Wight, Jerfey, Guernfey,
and Alderney. :
3. Litchfield and Coventry —Stafford, Derby, and part of Warwick
and Shropbhire. :
4. Lincoln. — Lincoln, Leicefter, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucking:
ham, and part of Hertford.
5- Ely.—Cambridgefhire.
6. Salifbury.—Wi ts and Berkhire.
97. Exeter.~Cornwall and Devon.
8. Bath and Wells. —Somerfetthire.
g. Chichefter.—Suffex.
10. Norwich.—Norfolk, Suffolk, and a fmall part of Cambridge.
11. Worcefter—Worcefter, and part of Warwick.
12. Hereford.—Hereford and part of Shrophhire.
13. Rochefter—Part of Kent.
14. Oxford.—-Oxfordhhire.
15. Peterborough.—-Northampton and Rutland.
16. Gloucefter.—Gloucefterthire.
17. Briftol.—The city of Brittol, part of Gloucefterfhire, and county
of Dorfet.
18. Llandaff.—Glamorgan, Morynouth, Brecknogk, and Radnor.
19. St. David’s.—Pembroke, Cardigan, and Caermarthen.
20. St. Afaph.— The greateft part of Flint, Denbigh, and Mont.
gomery, and fome part of Bhropfhire,
21. Bangor.—The counties of Anglefey, Cacrnarvon, Merioneth, and
part of Denbigh and Montgomery.
Province of York.
The Archbiihop, the Counties of York aad Nottingham.
22. Durham.—Durham and Northumberland.
23. Carlifle.—Great part of Cumberland and Weftmoreland.
24. Cheiter.—Chethire, Lancafhire, Richmondfhire (which is part of
York) ; with part of Cumberland and Weftmoreland.
5 Ifle of Man.
e valuations in'the king’s books are omitted, becaufe even the com-
tative vuiuation would lead to ideas wholly erroneous. Several changee
ve taken place in the number and fituations of the bithopricks fince
Chriftianity was firft eftablifhed in this country, but thefe rather belong
to the province of the antiquary.
Thofe who differ in tenets or forms from the eftablifhed church may,
in general, be flyled Diffenters, though the term be more frilly applied
to the Prefbyterians and = dependents. The other principal clafles of
the diffidents are the Pap...s, Methodifts, Quakers, the Baptifts the
Swedenborgians, and the Wnitarians > the laft clafe denying the er
’ a
and
who
Inde
whil
and r
with
the la
no tol
one y'
to one
inquif
the w
volenc
Jent ar
land, ;
fpirit |
cruelt
lity: 1
and nc
try wo
Calvin
polemi
terary |
fhire, a
but the
have fle
rally dii
privile
The
to allo
Engian¢
more fr
forced b
creed an!
mutt all
nations
tifm, an
tenets a
lieved, ¢
their ‘na
his natiy
ing publ
explorin
ficulty
a freque
twenty ;
with cur
are fome
is fo mu
his difcip
there is b
that the
ring ten
fures and
ENGLAND. — 28
and believing only in one God, is now intermingled with the two firft,
who have confiderably relaxed the itritnefs of their difcipline. The
Independents affert, that each congregation has a right to regulate itfelf,
while the Prefbyterians unite churches under various divifions, provincial
and national. The clerical ariftocracy of the Prefbyterians was obtruded
with great haughtinefs upon the Englifh nation during the civil war in
the lait century, and was rendered the more odious, becaufe it admitted
no toleration: hence the Englifh found that they had only exchanged
one yoke for another, or rather for flavery, as ten prefbyters amounted
to one bifhop, and fuperadded the petulence and morofenefs of individual
inquifitors. Milton and other friends of freedom foon began to fatirize
the whole fect, and to fly for refuge to the independents, whofe bene-
volence or addrefs granted univerfal toleration. ‘To this body Cromwell
Jent an iron hand; and after annihilating the Prefbyterian power in Eng-
land, in a great meafure fubverted that of Scotland. The intolerant
fpirit of .the Prefbyterians originated with their apoftle Calvin, whofe
cruelty to Servetus was balanced by cngairio, | talents in clerical poe
lity: it rendered their power fingularly adverfe to letters and tafte 5
and no man of fcience who had {tudied the literary hiftory of this coun-
try would wifh for the revival of fuch domination. But at prefent
Calvin would not recognife his difciples, as they have abandoned their
polemical thiitles, and cultivate the moit elegant productions of the li-
terary field. The papifts ufed chiefly to abound in Lancafhire, Stafford
fhire, and Suffex ; they had potent chiefs, and were a formidable body 5
but the paflage from fuperttition to contempt is fo natural, that many
have fled to the oppofite extreme. Thofe who retain their faith gene
rally difplay moderation, which has been naturally increafed by the late
privileges extended to them.
The methodifts are extremely numerous and refpectable. They feem
to allow the propriety of the creed and government of the church of
Engiand ; but they require a more ftrié lite, more fervent devotion, and
more frequent and ferious attendance upon divine worfhip than is en-
forced by the eftablifhment. A philofopher may well envy the mild
creed and univerfal charity, or fraternal ive of the quakers; while we
mutt allow with a figh that a nation of quakers could not exift, except all
nations were of the fame perfuafion. The Baptifts difown infant bap.
tifm, and bathe the adult difciple. The learned Whifton admired their
tenets and their practice of anointing the fick with oil, which; as he bee
lieved, operated with miraculous power. The Swedenborgians derive
their‘name from the Baron Swedenborg, a nobleman who exchanged
his native country of Sweden for a refidence in England. After anv.
ing publifhed two folio volumes in the Latin language upon the art of
exploring mines, he was feized with a violent fever, and with great dif.
ficulty recovered. In his difordered imagination he feemed to maintain
a frequent intercourfe with the fpiritual world; and he has publifhed
twenty or more vaft volumes in quarto, alfo in the Latin tongue, replete
with curious metaphyfical ratiocination, interfperfed with vifions, which
are fometimes narrated with high poetical fpirit and elegance, His fyftem
is fo much adapted to the ftrongeft propenfities of human nature, that
his difciples encreafed with great rapidity. His chief tenets are, that
there is but one perfon of the Deity, namely, the Lord Jefus Chritt 5
that the day of judgment is already paffed, &c. &c. 3 but his moft allu-
ring tenets ‘partake of Mahometani{m, in reprefenting the counubial plea.
furee and the other enjoyments of a future world, which he paints as
C 3 fimilay
22 ENGLAND,
fimilar to this ftate of exiftence, but far exceeding it in the gratifications « co
of every fenfe whether mentai or corporal. : & Jega
For the following obfervations on this important fubje& the author is “ upo
indebted to'a well-informed friend. ‘
“ Although the denominations hail and Independent are {till “ field
applied to two large bodies of diflenters, yet it may be queftioned «“ Ar
whether either of thefe parties coincides exactly in principles and dif- “ fhip
cipline with its predeceflors. With regard to the firft, it is certain « with
' that in both refpeéts they have deviated widely from their anceftors, “ of E
With the exception of one only in the moft northern part of Eng. “ admi
land, there is at this time no Encl Prefbytery ; the Englith Diffent- “ fieldi
ers, who {till go by the name of Prefbyterians, have affumed the con- “ {chifl
gregational independence of the other feét, and each fociety is now “ ing p
overned, by different methods indeed, by its own members exclufive- fepa
Fr without being in the leaft fubjected to the domination or interfer- churc
ence of any other, or of any fynod of minifters, The congregations nancd
ftill denominated Prefbyterian, have alfo changed their religious creed. by tl
None of them now are Calviniftic, and they differ widely from each « difcin
other ; fome being Arminian, others Arian, others Unitarian, but moft “ T
of them compofed of a mixture of thefe ; ftri¢t uniformity of opinion : “in ot
being feldom found. in large focieties. ee “ derab
‘«‘ The Independents have adhered more clofely to the difcipline of “ cong
their anceftors, though among them {hades of difference appear in “ and fe
their internal management. They are now’ univerfally Calvinitts, Gover
though fome hold the doétrines of the reformer lefs ftri¢tly than ftitution,
others. an is intima
« The Baptifts, who form the next great clafs of Englith diffenters, outline n
are divided into two bodies, which are denominated Particular and fenates, «
General Baptifts. The former are Calvinifts, and differ from the In- ought to
dependents only on the fubject of baptifm. ‘The Genvral Baptiits fenates d
derive their name from being advocates of general redemption—that partly fr
is, being Arminians. Many of them are now Sabellians, Arians, and dation of
Unitarians ; but ftill all of them oppofe the baptifm of infants. Our le
‘© The appellation Ana-baptift is not admitted by this refpectable body the digni
as juft or appropriate. It was originally applied to them by way of of Sacre
reproach as re-baptifers of thofe whom they received into their com. fan@tion «
munion by immerfion. As however they did not confider infane imagine ¢
Jprinkling to be a Chriftian ordinance, or the baptifm which Chriftianity the deed ;
required, they regarded their own baptifm as the we one which the has defer
party had really received. Jn their opinion, therefore, he was not ‘battles of
ana-baptifed. The term Anabaptift, as it ought, is now difcarded, At his er
and that of — properly fubftituted in its ttead, ad to parliar
** It is to be obferved, that what is called the ‘General body of Dif. Proteftan
fenters in London’ confifts of thefe three claffes only; that is, the bifhops, «
Prefbyterians, Independenis, and Baptifts, including the General and The ac
Particular Baptifts. ‘They holda friendly conference once a year at war and t
the great room in Dr. Williams’s library, Red-Crofs-ftreet, which is {perity m
lent tothem for the purpofe by the truilees. It is at thefe annual commiffio
conferences, or at {pecial meetings of the fame denominations convened T’o the ki
for the purpofe, that all public meafures relating to the diffenters, havens, at
fuch as addreffes to the throne, &c. originate, or are carried on, Upon coinage, ;
occafions of importance, howeyer, they advife with their brethren in likewife ¢
other parts. e congregations of thefe denominations have befides folution a
a body of deputies, two from each, who are deputed as a ftanding affent is n
9 “ committee alfo enjoy
ENGLAND. 23
« committee to watch over their civil rights, with power to refort to
« legal profecutions in defence of any privilege which may be encroached
«6 upon by ignorant or bigoted perfons.
« The Methodifts are divided into two claffes, the followers of Whit-
« field, who are Calvinifts of the ftri€teft kind, and of Wefley, who are
« Arminians. Both claffes, although they had feparate chapels for wor-
‘s fhip, which they conduéted on <i: plan of the generality of diffenters,
« without a fet form or liturgy, vetained their all aictes to the Church
«© of England, by remaining in communion with it, and refraining from
“ admninifierin the Lord’s fupper,in their chapels. I believe the Whit-
“ fieldian Methodifts ftill preferve this rule. A fhort time fince a grand
« {chifm took place among the Wefleyans on the fubjeét. The feced-
« ing party, confifting of about one half, more or lefs, of the body,
«‘ feparated on the ground of a total nonconformity with the eftablifhed
«© church, and have introduced the practice of adminiftering the ordi-
“¢ nance of the Lord’s Supper in their own places of workin, as done
“ by the other diffenters. They {till retain generally, however, the
“ difcipline of Wefley in their internal government,
«© The Unitarians until lately were only found {cattered as individuals
‘in other congregations. Of late, however, their number has confi-
‘“‘ derably increafed, and there are, at this time a confiderable number of
“‘ congregations avowedly Unitarian in different parts of the country,
“ and feveral in the metropolis and its neighbourhood.”
Government. ] It is difficult to give a brief idea of the Englifh con-
ftitution, which prefents an infinite number of practical ramifications, and
is intimately connected with the fpirit and manners of the people. A mere
outline muit here fuffice. It is a aimited monarchy, counterpoifed by two
fenates, one of hereditary peers, the other of reprefentatives, who are or
ought to be chofen by the people. The ftability and real power of thefe
fenates depend on a ates aaaiinans with the popular voice, arifing
partly from the mode of election, and partly from the fympathetic grae
dation of ranks.
Our lawyers pronounce that the king of England unites in his perfon
the dignity of chief magiftrate with the fanétity of a prieft ; and the title
of Sacred Majelty appears to have commenced when he affumed the
fanétion of Head of the Church. So auguit is his perfon that even to
imagine or intend his death is a capital offence, when in all other cafes
the deed alone is punifhable. Fortefcue in his old emphatic lan
has defcribed the office of the king of England to be “to fight the
battles of his people, and to judge them with moft righteous judgment,””
At his coronation he folemnly {wears to govern his people according
to parliamentary ftatutes, and the law of the country ; to maintain the
Proteftant religion ; and to preferve the legal rights and privileges of the
bifhops, clergy, and church,
The acknowled:ted prerogatives of the monarch are chiefly to declare
war and to make peace, a power upon which the whole of public pro-
{perity may be faid to depend ; to form alliances and treaties ; to grant
commiffion for levying men and arms, and even for prefling mariners,
To the _ alfo belong all magazines, ammunition, caitles, forts, ports,
havens, and thips of war ; hechas alfo the fpecial management of the
coinage, and determines ihe alloy, weight, and value. "The prero ative
likewife extends to the aflembling, adjournment, prorogation, and dif-
folution of parliament, and to its removal to any place, ‘The royal
affent is neceflary to give validity to an a& of parliament, The fovereign
alfo enjoys the nomination of all officers on fea or land; of all ma-
C 4 giltrates,
24 ENGLAND.
giftrates, counfellers, and officers of ftate; of all bifhops and other
great ecclefiaftical dignitaries; and is not only the fountain of honour
but of juftice, as he may pardon any offence, or mitigate the penalty.
As head of the church he may call a national or provincial fynod, and
with its confent ena& canons either relating to faith or pra@tice. The
other prerogatives are more minute and more adapted to jurifprudential
enumeration. The more important exceptions are, that he cannot enact
new laws or impofe new taxes without the confent of both houfes of
parliament. :
This grand national council claims the next confideration. Origi-
nally both the nobles and the commons met in one houfe, and it is not
impoffible that the mere inconvenience of not finding halls yd enough
for our then ambulatory parliaments might have occafioned the divifion
into two houfes, unknown in any other country, and which in fact may
be regarded as the fole foundation of Englifh liberty. The houfe of
peers may be faid to have exifted from the earlieft period of our hiftory,
but concerning the origin of the commons there is a difpute between the
Tory and the Whig writers. ‘The prefent conftitution of the parliament
of England may however be traced with certainty to near the middle of
the thirteenth century ; but it remains unknown at what precife time
happened the important feparation of the commons from the peers.
The peers aré hereditary fenators in their feveral degrees of duke, mar-
quis, earl, vifcount, and baron, ‘The duke ig fo ftyled from the Latin
dux, a leader or general; the title of marquis fprings from the Gothic
language, and implies the cotimander of a march or frontier: the earl
and baron are alfo from the Gothic, and merely imply eminent men:
the vifcount is Latin, and fignifies the lieutenant of the count or earl.
The various orders of nobility have been preferved more pure in Eng-
land than in any other country ; owing partly to the laws of primoge-
niture, partly to their fenatorial office, partly to the inftitution of the
college of heralds. In Germany and fome other countries the nobility
has fallen into comparative degradation, from the extenfion of the title
to all the fons, and from the prefumption of adventurers. The privi-
leges of the peers are moderate and uninvidious, there being no exemp-
tion from taxes, &c. as in fome countries.
The houfe of commans confifts of knights, citizens, ahd burgeffes,
chofen by counties, cities, and boroughs, in confequence of royal writs
,dire&ted to the theriff. The members have certain privileges, as exemp-
tion from arreft in civil caufes, on their journey to parliament, pers
their attendance and on their returns nor can they be queftioned out o
the houfe for any fentiment there uttered. The commons form the
grand inqueft of the realm, and may impeach or accufe the greatett
peers; but their chief privilege, and upon which their whole “area
depends, is the levying of money, in which they are defervedly fo jea-
Jous, that they will not permit the fmalleft alteration in a money bill.
Since the union with Ireland the houfe of commons confifts of fix
hundred and fifty-eight members ; but by ficknefs, important offices, and
indifpenfable avocations, there rarely appear above two thirds of the
number. A fpeaker or prefident is chofen at the meeting of every new
parliament, but is ufually continued from one to another as the office
* uires a complete and ready knowledge of the forms, and confiderable
abilities,
Ads of parliament are firft prefented in the form of dil, and, after
having gone through various and exaét forms generally obferved with
great minutenefs, become law on receiving the fanction of the we, a
ee
ran
ee nfti
of elo
Rome
as bef
cular |
Adj
4s cont
the bill
moder:
the pa
may, o
Sucl
but per
of adr
nection
the oth
The
is chief
peace a
member:
feldom
right he
board p
with de
Even
hands a
exercife
which h
ee
or fuch
he was «
juttice,
influence
ment of
the chan
revenue,
bution o
carried h
the fecre
of the na
the comn
Junie,
highett a
quent in
mutt be ¢
jury is anc
the Saxo
liberties,
here to at
ENGLAND. 25
The attention of the nation is chiefly bent upon the parliament, when
rand political queftions arife reese! war ‘and peace, or affecting the
conftitutional liberties of the land. On fuch occafions the utmoft powers
of eloquence are exerted ; and fpecimens produced worthy of Greece or
Rome. Such trials of elocution may either arife in the ftages of a bill
as before defcribed, or by the fpecial motion of a member for fome parti-
cular object, or addrefs to the throne.
Adjournments may frequently happen in one feffion, and the bufinefs
is continued and refumed ; but a prorogation terminates the feffion, and
the bills not then pafled muit recommence their whole progrefs. By a
modern ftatute the death of the king does not, as formerly, terminate
the parliament ; which, on the contrary, had it been previoufly diffolved,
may, on that event, refume its functions,
Such are the three grand component parts of the Englifh conftitution 5
but perhaps its moft beneficial and popular effects arife from the mode
of adminiftering juftice, and other ramifications, For the fake of con-
nection, however, it is proper firft to coulider the privy council and
the other divifions of the government,
The privy council formerly poffeffed great power, but at prefent
is chiefly employed in deliberations on affairs of fudden emergence, on
peace and war, and fpecial provinces of the royal prerogative. The
members are chofen by the ling, and on changes of adminiftration are
feldom erafed, thongh thofe in oppofition never attend. They are ftyled
right honourable, and are fworn to obferve fecrecy : the loweit at the
board pronounces his opiyion firft, and the king, if prefent, concludes
with declaring his judgment.
Even at an early period, when the monarch maintained in his own
hands a great fhare of the adminiftration of poe and of the actual
exercife of authority, there were intervals of abfence or recreation in
which he delegated the chief management of butinefs to fome feleé&
erfon ufyally an ecclefiattic, whofe cultivated talents qualified him
Sor fuch an important truft, To lend more weight to this fubititute,
he was.commonly appointed chancellor or chief adminiftrator of civil
juftice, was prefident of the houfe of peers, and fupported the royal
influence in that great aflembly. But in later times when the manage-
ment of the houfe of commons became the chief object of the crown,
the chancellor of the court of Exchequer, as fuperintendant of the public
revenue, is the officer generally confidered as prime minifter. The diftri-
bution of fifty millions a year, joined with the royal fupport, has recently -
carried his power to the highelt elevation. Next to him in authority are
the fecretaries of ftate, who are followed by the chancellor, the treafurer
of the navy, thi prefident of the council, the paymafter of the forces,
the commiflioners of the treafury, end other perfons of high truit.
JUDICATURE AND LAWS. ] The judicature of England is worthy of the
higheit applaufe with regard to precifion and purity ; and bribes, fo fre-
quent in other countries, being totally unknown, the faving of this expence
mutt be candidly poifed againit other legal difburfements. The trial by
jury is another glorious feature of Englith jurifprudence; handed down from
the Saxon times, and is juftly refpected as the very fafeguard of the lives,
liberties, and properties of the nation, It would be idle and extraneous
here to attempt even a brief fketch of the laws of England. The molt
fingular ufuages are what is termed Borough Englifb, by which the
youngeft fon, or, in defe&t of iffue, the youngeft brother was to enjoy
the heritage, as it was to be prefumed that his elder brethren had learned
their father’s bufinefs, and that of gavel kind, fcarcely known “ in
end.
26
Kent. In no country are wills fo much venerated by law; that of Mr.
Thelluffon furnifhes a recent example.
The foreft laws relate chiefly to offences committed in or near the pre-
cinGts of the royal forefts, and were formerly regarded as a confiderable
portion of the national code. But a more vigorous branch of Englifh ju-
dicature muft not be forgotten; martial law, or the Lex Caftrenfis Angli-
cana, may be clearly traced to the reign of Henry V. who iffued a code
of military ftatutes publifhed by Upton and Grofe. The ftatutes chiefly
relate to facrilege, prifoners, robbery of merchants, &c. &c. and refer
folely to the a€tual exercife of war; the pain of death rarély occurs ex-
cept in the cafe of any perfon who cries avec, an expreffion feemingly
equivalent to “no quarter.’”? Martial law may be proelaimed by the
king, regent, or lieutenant-general of the kingdom ; and even in time of
peace, though the prerogative be rarely employed except during war.
It is in fact a diCtatorial power never exerted except on great emergencies.
The trials are fummary and fevere as the neceflity of the cafe authorifes.
Among the courts of law the next in dignity to the Houfe of Lords
i; the Court of King’s Bench, fo called becaufe the fovereign was un-
derftood to judge in perfon ; and its jurifdiction of courfe extends to the
whole kingdom, the prefiding judge being denominated Lord Chief
Juftice of England. The Court of Chancery judges caufes in equity to
moderate the rigour of the law, and defend the helplefs from oppreflion,
and efpecially to extend relief in three cafes, accident, fraud, and breach
of truit. The Court of Common Pleas determines, as the name imports,
the common fuits between fubjeét and fubje, and tries all civil caufes,
real, perfonal, or mingled, according to the precife precepts of the law,
The Court of Exchequer, fo termed from the ancient mode of account-
ing upon a chequered board, decides all caufes relating to the royal trea-
fury or reyenue. There is alfp a court for the duchy hanes having
cognizance of the revenues of that duchy annexed to the crown by
Henry IV.
The judges perform their circuits in the fpring and autumn, and in
the mean while more m‘nute cafes are determined by the juitices of the
peace, who may be traced to the fourth year of Edward III. Every
three months the juftices of the county meet at what is called the quarter
feffions, and the grand inqueft or jury of the county is here fummoned,
which inquires concerning crimes, and orders the guilty. to jail till the
next circuit or aflizcs. The office of the theriff is to execute the royal
mandates, to impannel juries, to bring perfons for trial, and to fee the
{entences executed ; to colleét fines and remit them to the exchequer,
and to preferve the tranquillity of the fhire.
There was formerly a bailif? in every hundred, but the office is now
rare. The conftables perfonally affiit in the prefervation of the peace,
and execute the ‘warrants of the juftices. ‘Fhe coroner inquires by a jury
of neighbours into cafes of violent death. The clerk of the market
fuperintends the weights and meafures; and it were to be withed for
benefit of the poor that the office were multiplied and ftrifly en-
orced.
Such are the chief magiftrates and offices in the country, Cities and
towns are generally ruled by a mayor and aldermen, or by fimilar magi-
ftrates under different appellations, whofe juridical power little exceeds
that of juftices of the peace,
To enumerate the various punifhments infliéted by the laws of Eng-
land would be an unneceflary talk, It has been juitly obferved that they
are too fanguinary, aud that their frequency diminishes the intended pur
pole
ENGLAND.
ofe o
er, tl
man is
be renc
life to 1
blood 1
Por
enumer
thoufan
comput
to equi
fixty.
to amot
geny of
extent ¢
ARM
170,00¢
fuppofe
Nav:
confit i:
any exal
Statemen
hired
Trade
Downs
North Sea
Englith C
Irith Stati
Jerfey, G
Spain, Po
Mediterray
Coatt of A
Halifax,
WetftIndies
South Am¢
Cape of Gd
Ealt Indies
Td
In Port an
Guard Ship
Hoiptal shi
T
Ordinary ;
Building
ENGLAND. 2
pofe of impreffing terror. Ifdeath were only infli€ted in cafes of mur-
der, the relaxation would be found beneficial to the community. As
eo man is an animal reared with confiderable difficulty, and may generally
le be rendered ufeful, it would certainly be preferable to fend criminals for
Ue life to the new and diftant fettlements in Auftralafia, than by the watte of
li- blood to leffen ftrength and population.
de PoputaTion.] The population of England and Wales by the late
ly enumeration amounts ‘to nine millions three hundred and forty-three
er thoufand five hundred and feventy-eight. That of Ireland is generally .
x computed at three millions, while that of Scotland has been lately found
ly to equal one million fix hundred and feven thoufand feven hundred and °
he fixty. The various colonies in America, &c. will not perhaps be found
of to amount to one million; but the American ftates boaft a Britifh pro-
ar. geny of fix millions, and the Englifh language is probably diffufed to the
es. extent of twenty millions of people.
$. Army.] The army during the late war was fuppofed to exceed
rds 170,000, with 30,000 bencibles and 78,000 militia, the volunteers being
in- fuppofed to be 60,000.
the Navy.] But the great rampart and fupreme glory of Great Britain
rief confilt in her navy, in tize, ftrength, and number of fhips, far exceeding
to any example on record, as may be judged from the following catalogue.
on,
ach
ma NAVY LIST, May 1810.
fes
neg Statement of the diftribution of the Britifb Naval Force, exclufive of the
inte hired armed Veffels, which are chiefly employed in protecting the Coafting
rea- Trade of Great Britain.
ing
3 w
1 in Stations. a 5 2 R213 0
the ’ inde Rn 00 2]
ery Downs - . F co) ee ee 1 de 7d | |
rter North Sea and Baltic - - I ¢} ox c| 2 5 g| 62
red, Englith Channel and Coaft of France a] 12 g| c} 16 7] 8] 64
the Irith Station « ° ° ° 9 6 C ) Nope] 28
1 Jerfey, Guernfey, &c. - qo 3 1 © 5 2} 3) 16
oya Spain, Portugal, and Gibraltar - 3} tal of) al ool. oy 8
the Mediterranean, and on Paffuge - oO} 23) x4} 2] 36) cf at 79
uer, Coalt of Africa - - fe) 1 I c ’ (>) n°) 3
Halifax, nip = omer, I 9 9 I 6 eo] on 38
, eewar' ands 11 1 7
— Weft Indies Jamaica, and on Paffage 9 r ; . : ; 46
ACC South America - "8 af oa} cl 6} tats
ury Cape of Good Hope, and Southward | | ee a; i -) ) 15
7“ Ealt Indies, and on Paifage - a} 20) gf 6} 3 o} 38
or
es | a |
ee
Total at Sea - -
In Port and fitting - °
Guard Ships - . °
Hoiptal Ships, Prifon Ships, &c.
an
Total in Commiffion = +
Ordinary and repaiing for Service
Building - “ .
195] 321. 97) 833
24 1 6) 216
10311813
Yor
33
ENGLAND.
For this immenfe fleet the number of feamen amounts from one hun-
dsed to one hundred and twenty thoufand, a number which no other
country ancient or modern could have fupplied.
The naval power of Great Britain conftitutes fo ftriking and im-
portant a feature in the national portrait, that it merits particular illuftra-
tion. Even in the Saxon times we find confiderable fleets mentioned
of the fimall veffels then in ufe. One of the Northumbrian monarchs
affembled a numerous fleet near Jarro, the monaftery of Beda, in an exten-
five haven of the time, now become a falt marfh. About the year 882
we find that Alfred dire&ted a powerful fleet againfe the Danifh in-
vaders. The fleet of Edgar is alfo celebrated, but the armament of
Ethelred the fecond in the year 1009 exceeded any which England ever
before had beheld, probably amounting to five hundred of the fmall
fhips then known. But the devaftations of the Danes and Normans
occafioned fuch a decline in the naval power of England, that Richard I.
was obliged to have recourfe to foreign veffels for his crufade. In the
reign of John we, for the firit time, find commemorated a fignal
victory of the Englifh and Flemings over the French fleet of Philip
Auguitus, which was computed at 1700 fhips, or rather boats. The
Englifh monarch in the pride of his triumph was the firft who ordered
the sALuTE to be paid by foreign veffels to the national flag. The fleet
of England thenceforth continued to be always refpeétable, and gene-
rally victorious ; but the preponderance of the Englifh armaments over
thole of France only became permanent and decifive a little more than a
century ago, after the battle of La Hogue. Spain had yielded the con-
teft fince the deftruG&ion of her great Armada, and Holland had been
greatly reduced in her naval confliéts under Charles the Second ; fo that
no other rival remained, and Great Britain maintains a fixed {uperiority
over the ocean,
The {pecial fuperintendance of the navy, is committed to the Board of
Admiralty, compofed of admirals of known {kill, and of peers whofe im-
partiality gencraily regards merit alone in this important fervice. The
recent conduct of maritime war has been crowned with diltinguifhed
fuccefs ; and whilft the admirals mutt be allowed to rival any names in
naval hiftory ancient or modern, the fame of Nelfon has been confecrated
by his glorious death.
Revenues. ] In ancient times the royal revenue chiefly arofe from the
domains, or lands appropriated to the crown, from amerciaments civil and
criminal which paffed to the fife or treafury, and from cuftoms on goods
imported and exported. As in war each foldier was obliged to maintain
himfelf for a certain time, the expenditure was not much increafed.
Upon extraordjiary emergencies, it appears that a contribution was
raifed by the confent of the national council. In later periods fubfidies
were granted to the amount of a fifteenth or a tenth of landed income,
and a proportionable rate on moveable goods. As fociety advanced, taxes
began to be impofed on the materials themfelves ; and from a {mall plant
an enormous tree has rifen, with a labyrinth of roots, which in the opinion
of fome politicians undermine the ifland, while others believe that they
only produce a more firm confolidatian,
. 'The excife forms one of the moft productive branches of the revenue,
amounting to between feven and eight rillions, Next ftand the cuftoms,
which produce about half that fum. The ftamps and incidental taxes,
as they are termed, arife to near three millions. ‘The land-tax has re-
cently been rendered perpetual, and fold to proprietors of eftates and
other individuals. But inftead of the land-tax, now appear sa on
ugg
fugar
fifty t
pany,
yield '
fums 1
ture tc
Of 1
the int
to mo!
prefent
19,000
ro ‘
1786, |
redeem
into wh
public .
The (
Judges,
amount:
Pox:
comman
Great E
money i
Scotland
check, e
from belt
with Ire]
additiona
between
the natu
a contfta
leffen Bri
regarded
enmity of
of the Ge
are capab
would dié
effected, i
from behi
to Engla
amity of
great ftret
turn our o
The co
of comme
and Spain
momentou
nection wi
eyltivating
enue,
oms,
taxes,
as re>
s and
hfe on
fugag
ENGLAND. 29
fugar, tobacco, and malt, amounting to two millions feven hundred and
fifty thoufand pounds ; the other fupplies arife from the Eait India Com-
any, lotteries, &c. In addition to thefe the income-tax is fuppofed to
yield 7,500,000l Inthe year 1799 it was fuppofed that the additional
{ums raifed by loans, and other methods, {welled the national expendi«
ture to near fixty millions fterling.
Of the permanent taxes the greater part is employed in cifeheging
the intereft of the national debt, which after the American war amounte
to more than 239 millions, while the intereft exceeded g,000,000. At
prefent the national debt is about 480,000,000, and the intereft about
cardial | ee ‘
To alleviate this growing burthen, a finking fund was inftituted in
1786, by which between 20 and 30 millions may be confidered as already
redeemed. The national debt began in the reign of William, and grew
into what are called the funds or itocks, only fynonymous terms for the
public debt.
The civil lift; from which are defrayed the falaries of officers of ftate,
Judges, ambaffadors, &c. together with the expences of the royal family,
amounts to 1,000,000 annually.
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] With fuch a prodigious
command of national treafure, the political importance and relations of
Great Britain may be faid to be diffufed over the world; for wherever
money influences man, there may her power be perceived. The union of
Scotland with England delivered the latter country from the perpetual
check, exercifed by politicians ancient and modern, of exciting an enemy
from behind, and thereby dividing the power of an antagomift. That
with Ireland, if preferved by ‘wife and lenient meafures, mutt alfo impart
additional energy. The moft important political confiderations are thofe
between Great Britain and France. If this country muft not be ftyled
the natural enemy of Great Britain, fhe has yet for many centuries been
a conftant and jealous rival, eagerly embracing every opportunity to
leffen Britith profperity and power. Such being the cafe, it has been
regarded as the political intereft of England to balance and divide the
enmity of France by a ftrié alliance with fome limitaneows ftate. None
of the German ftates bordering on France, nor even Switzerland itfelf,
are capable of niuch exertion. Hence it might feem that found policy
would di€tate as complete a confolidation of German power as could be
effeéted, in order to give a decided and vigorous check to that of France
from behind. Holland prefents a voted of fuperlative importance
to England, being her grand mart of trade from the continent. The
amity of Ruffia is valuable in a commercial view, as fhe might by no
great ftretch of oriental power detach an army into Hindoftan, and over-
turn our opulent poffeffions.
The connection of Portugal has been enforced by mutual advantages
of commercial intercourfe, and by the family compact between France
and Spain. The friendfhip or enmity of Denmark and Sweden is little
momentous ; but as this latter country has long maintained a {tri con-
neCtion with France, it is moft natural that Britain fhould balance tt by
cyltivating that of Denmark,
ENGLAND.
CHAPTER III.
Civit Geocrapuy.
Manners and Cufloms—Language—Literature—the Aris—Education—=
Univerfities—Cities and Tawns—Edifices—Roads—Inland Naviga:
tion—Manufadures and Commerce.
tena oe ae HE fingularity of manners in England
Manners AND customs: ] 3} has often ekeited the furprife s fo-
reigners, and the dttention of our own ethic writers, who have attempted
to deduce the fources from moral and phyfical caufes ; eftimating as the
firit, the freedom diffufed over the country, which permits the indulgence
of individual inclinations : agd recurring for the latter, to the perpetual
variations of the climate.
The confideration of national manners may be coriveniently referred
to three divifions; firft, diet; fecondly, houfes and drefs; thirdly,
amufements.
The Englifh are generally efteemed to exceed in the ufe of animal
food; but fince the introduction of potatoes and other efculent vege.
tables, this pofition may be doubted. Our potations of heavy malt
liquor defervedly ftrike foreigners as a fingularity in Englifh diet. Even
our lighteft liquors of that fort have not efcaped their remark ; for a
late French traveller has obferved, that the Englifh commonly drink at
their meals a fort of medical ptifan, which they call {mall beer. Our
anceftors prided themfelves in the variety and. richnefs of their ales ; nor
-even at prefent do we refufe praife to the various qualities of our Burton,
Dorchefter, Taunton, Windfor, Scottifh, Welfh and other ales. But
the mott peculiar malt beverage is porter, which ought to be folely com.
pofed of brown or high dried malt, hops, liquorice, and fugar ; but it
1s fometimes debafed by other ingredients: that of London is particu.
larly famous, and is an article aft exportation, being eiteemed a luxury
on the banks of the Delaware and the Ganges. The prodigious con-
fumption of tea is another peculiar feature, the ufe of that plant being
rare in other European countries. The baneful effects of excefs in
ee ai liquors may be traced in the ruined health and morals of the
people.
The fimplicity of the Englifh cookery ftrikes foreigners as much as
that of the drefs, which even among the great is very plain, except on
the days of court gala.
_ The houfes in England are peculiarly commodious, neat, and cleanly ;
and domettic architecture feems here arrived at its greatelt perfection.
The amufements of the theatre and of the field, and various games of
fkill or chance, are common to mot nations. ‘The baiting of bulls and
bears is, it is believed, nearly difcontinued: one of the moft peculiar
amufements of the common people is the ring:ag of long peals, with
many changes, which deafen thofe who are fo unhappy as to live in the
neighbourhood of the church. . ®
Prior to the middle of the f'xteenth century, the Englifh and French
were regarded as barbarous nations by the more polifhed Italians. The
reign and female blandifhments of the court of Elizabeth feem to have
had a wonderful effeé in civilizing the manners. ‘The tranfition has been
well pourtrayed by an ancient writer, whofe fimple language, given in
modern enhography, may perhaps amufe the reader,
¢ There
ty
hay
the
“ ere
* thre
6 hou
S¢ vent
“ vere
$6 cone
“ and
with
their
* bolit
“ had ;
“‘ head
* town
© meet
‘¢ fheet
* bodie:
6 canva:
66 Th
“ into Pp
* were a
“ find fo
6 in a ox
“ fo jut
“ their d
“ they p:
“6 alfe th
* alehou
“ his neig
“ did caff
“unto t
“much ¢
bi penne
‘* farmer t
“ have no
“ new lea
“ four fea
“ falt-fel]
“to furni
““ what fta
“ feen that
“ he rene
“ be expir4
*€ to his Io
“ defeat h
“ hair of h
“chin *,9?
Under t
are called
Ments of
youth, It
imal
eges
malt
Even
for a
k at
ur
; nor
irtony
But
come
put it
rticus
ixury
cons
being
efs in
of the
ch as
pt on
banly 5
On.
es of
s and
euliar
, with
in the
®
French
The
io have
g been
iven in
There
ENGLAND. 31
«¢ There are old men yet dwelling inthe village where I remain, who
« have noted three things that are marvelloufly altered in England within
«their found remembrance. One,is the multitude of chimnies lately
« erected: whereas in their young days there were not above two or
«s three, if fo many, in many uplandifh towns of the realm (the religious
‘‘ houfes, and manor places of their lords, always excepted, and perad-
«¢ venture fome great perfonages), but each one made his fire againft a
“6 vere doffe in the hall, where he dined and dreffed his meat. ‘The fe-
“‘ cond is the great amendment of lodging ; for, faid they, our fathers,
“and we aupllien have laid full oft upon ftraw pallets, covered only
«¢ with a fheet, under coverlets made of dag/wain or hopharlots (I ufe
«‘ their own terms) and a good round log under their heads inftead of a
boliter. If it were fo that our fathers, or the. good man of the houfe,
«had a mattrefs or flock bed, and thereto a fack of chaff to reit his
«‘ h.ad upon, he thought himfelf to be as well lodged as the lord of the
“‘ town, i well were they contented. Pillows, faid they, were thought
«‘ meet only for women in childbed. As for fervants, if they had any
“‘ (heet above them, it was well, for feldom had they any under their
‘‘ bodies, to keep them from the pricking ftraws that ran through the
«canvas, and razed their hardened hides.
«© The third thing they tell us of, is the exchange of woaden platters
“into pewter, and wooden fpogns into filver or tin. For fo common
“‘ were all forts of wooden veifels, in old time, that a man fhould hardl
“‘ find four pieces of pewter (of which ove was peradventure a falt-feller)
“in a good farmer’s houfe; and yet, for all this frugality, if it may be
“‘ fo juitly called, they were fcarce able to live and pay their rents at
‘‘ their days, without felling of a cow, or ahorfe, or a mare, although
‘they paid but four pounds at -the uttermoft by the year. Such was
‘“‘alfo their poverty, that if a farmer, or hufbandman, had been at the
“alehoufe, a thing greatly ufed in thofe days, amongtt fix or feven of
“his neighbours, and there, in a bravery, to fhew what ftore he had,
“6 did catt doyn his purfe, and therein a noble, or fix fhillings in filver,
“unto them, it is very likely that all the reft would not lay down fo
“much againft it; whereas, in my time, although peradventure four
‘“ cen of old rent be improved to forty or fifty pounds, yet will the
“ farmer think his gains very {mall, towards the midit of his term, if he
“‘ have not fix or feven years rent lying by him, therewith to purchafe a
“new leafe; befides a fair garnifh off pewter on his cupboard, three or
* four feather beds, as many coverlids, and carpets of tapeftry, a filver
“ falt-feller, a bowl for wine, if not a whole neft, and a dozen of {poons
“to furnifh up the fuit. This alfo he taketh to be his own clear; for
“‘ what ftock of money foever he gathereth in‘all his years, it is often
“‘ feen that the landlord will take fuch order with him for the fame, when
‘he reneweth the leafe (which is commonly eight or ten years before it
“ be expired, fince it is now grown almott a suite, that if he come not
“ to his lord fo long before, another fhall ftep in for a reverfion, and fo
“defeat him outright), that it fhall never trouble him more than the
‘“ hair of his beard, when the barber hath wafhed and fhaven it from his
“chin *.”” '
Under this divifion of geography have been generally arranged what
are called national charaéters, but which, in faét, are commonly monu-
ments of prejudice and injuitice, and particularly noxious to the minds of
youth, It thall therefore only be remarked, that the cold reftraint which
* Defcription of Britain, in Holinfhed’s Chronicle, vol..1. fol, 8¢,
: fome
32 ENGLAND.
fome foreigners lave afcribed to’ the Englithy has been candidly judged,
by a recent traveller, to exift only in appearance. A more genuine at-
tribute of the Englifh is integrity, widch has carried their credit and
commerce to an extent before unknown in the hiftory of nations.
Lancuace.] Moft European languages are derived from-the Guth:
orthe Latin. ‘To the Latin origin belong Italian, French, and Spanif': ;
to the Gothic, the German, Dutch, Flemifh, Danifh, Swedith, and Ne:-
wegian. From the fituation of the country, and other caufes, the
Englifh participates of both thofe grand fources; and.unites, in fome
degree, the force of the Gothic with the melody of the Latin dialeéts.
The ancient ground, and native expreffion, originate from the Gothic
divifions of the Belgic, Saxon, and Danifh; but particularly from ‘the
Belgic, as will appear from comparifon with the Dutch and Frific.
‘The languages of Latin origin have, however, fupplied a vaft wealth of
words, Diictimes neceflary, fometimes only adopted becaufe they are
more fonorous, though not fo emphatic as the original Gothic. There
is no evidence of the exiftence of Celtic words in our language, whatever
fome antiquaries have imagined, for the words they indicate may alfo be
found in Iceland, a country never peopled by the Celts.
Numerous manufcripts exift, written in the Anglo-Saxon or old
Englifh language, and one of its mot claffic authors 1s the great Alfred
himfelf. It appears from many works, written long after the Conqueft,
that the French language, though colloquial among the great, {carcely
imparted any tinge to the national tongue. The conquetts of Edward
III. in France, and other circumftances, effected, in the fourteenth cen-
tury, a change‘in vain attempted by the Norman conqueror. Chaucer,
who wrote at that period, prefents almoft the firft rude dawn. of what
may be termed the Englifh language In the fame century, that fabu-
lous traveller Sir John Manderville fupplies one of the beft {pecimens of
Englith profe.
In the fucceeding century, the {peech had made fuch rapid advances,
that even as early as the reign of Edward the Fourth, we find it vary
very little from that of the reign of Henry the Eighth. The works of
Fortefcue, in the reign of Edward the Fourth, fetting afide the ortho-
graphy, might even be perufed by the common reader.
In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a century after, the Englith language
had acquired fuch copioufnefs, dignity, force, and melody, that perhaps
in the eye of very diftant pofterity, moderns may be fuppofed never to
have exceeded, what is gained in elegance being generally loft in power.
Sydney’s defence of poefy may be regarded as a good fpecimen of
Englih profe, not to mention Hooker's ecclefiaftical polity, and other
large works of that period, which continue to be read and admired.
The common tranflation of the bible is a noble fpecimen of the dig-
nified profe of the following reign, beyond which it is unneceffary to
conduét this fketch, as our brantes abound with the fucceeding publi-
cations.
The conftruétion of the Englifh language is peculiar, and renders the
ftudy of it very difficult to foreigners. e German and other Gothic
diale&ts prefent declenfions of nouns, and other correfpondencies with
the Latin, while in the Englifh all fuch objeéts are accomplifhed by pre-
fixes. Anomalies alfo abound, and are too deeply rooted, ever to be
eradicated by matical rules. Farther remarks would be foreign to
the plan of this work, which however requires, occafionally, fhort fpe-
cimens of the various lan uages of the globe, to enable the reader to judge
ef,the relative origins of nations; for this purpofe the Lord’s prayer is
14 generally
meth
ofr
cyld,
he
Ou
dom (
our d:
ledd u
Lin
few fu
Druid:
Pear tc
period:
before
teratur
turies t
‘femaine
this def
The D:
and Ire]
deavour,
clergy.
and utili
OF the i;
chronicle
of Engl
diterature
rians, pod
teenth c¢
nius. I
York and
it be eafy
duction ¢
rable epo
numerous
T he g
mitted ey
and Lock
In {oienti
Various 6
fociety, a
within the
gation.
of that d
with difti
Arts,
lent and re
ample. §
but the nz
William 0
the rei
genius and
Ga
the
me
ts. \
hic
the
fic.
1 of
are
here
ever
» be
old
fred
uelt,
rcely
ward
cene
ucer,
what
fabu-
ons of
ances,
vary
ks of
’ rtho-
muage
prhaps
ver to
ower.
nen of
other
e dig-
ary S°
publi-
ors the
othic
s with
e ree
Tea be
eign to
prt {pe-
p judge
3 yer 48
nerally
‘ ENGLAND. 33
gener chofen, which fhall be here given in Anglo-Saxon and modern
n
lith.
Biren fader thie arth in heofnds. Sie gebalgud thin noma. To cy-
meth thin ryc. Sie thin willa, fue is in heofnas and in eortho. Uren hlaf
oferwiftlie fel us to daeg. And forgeve us feylda urna fue we forgefan
fe — urum. And no inlead ufig in cuftnung. 2h gefrig ufich frim
ifle. Amen.
Our father, which art in heaven, hallowed be thy name; thy king-
dom come, thy will be done on earth as it is in heaven; give us this day
dur daily bread, and forgive us our debts ag we forgive our debtors ; and
lead us not into temptation, but deliver us from evil. Amen.
Literature. ] English literature is a vait and inviting field ;~but a
few fugitive remarks muft here fuffice. Of the traditionary verfes of the
Druids, no relit probably exifts ; and the Roman conqueft does not aps
pear to have inculcated letters with much diffufion, for no author of thofe
eriods claims a, Britifh origin. The country was feized by the Saxone,
before Britifh literature faintly dawned in Gildas, A. D. 560. Irith li«
terature commenced about the fame period, and continued for fome cen-
turies to fupply numerous writers in the Latin language, while England
‘remained almoft deftitute. But Beda in the eighth century redeemed
this defe&t, in himfelf a hoft, and, like Chaucer, the wonder of his time.
The Danith invafions were ruinous to literature, both in Great Britain
and Ireland, and the great Alfred was obliged to exert his utmoft en-
deavours in order to reftore fome degree of learning even among the
clergy. That admirable prince himfelf tranflated fome works of merit
and utility, as the hiftorics of Orofius and Beda into the Anglo-Saxon.
Of the interval between the age of Beda and the year 1100, the Saxon
chronicle is a noble but neglected monument, being the only civil hiftory
of England, for a {pace of 400 years. About the year 1100, Englifh
literature commenced a firm and fteady pace ; a numerous train of hifto-
rians, poets, and other writers, fills the pages of biography. Jn the four-
teenth century, Roger Bacon afpires even to the praife of eminent ge-
nius. In the following century, the civil wars between the houfes of
York and Lancafter were deftructive of literature and the afts ; nor will
it be eafy td name an illuftrious author of that period, though the intro-
duction of printing in the reign of Edward the Fourth forms a memos
rable epoch. The writers of the fixteenth and following centuries are
numerous and well known.
The grand feature of Englifh literature is original genius, tranf-
mitted even from Roger Bacon to our Shakefpeares, Miltons, Newtons,
and Lockes, not to dwell here on claims more minute, but equally firm.
In foientific departments, England mutt yield to France, except in the
various branches of mathematical knowledge ; the inft’.ution of the royal
fociety, and the genius of Newton, having attraéted the greateft talents
within their fphere, to the negleét of: other branche® of curioug invetti-
gation. The Englith clergy, who far exceed in learning any other body
of that defcription in Europe, have always cultivated ‘daflical Lterature
with diftinguihed zeal and predilection. “3
Arts.] The prefent ftate of the arts in England is worthy of fo opu-
lent and refined a country, and the progrefs has been rapid beyond ex-
ample. Some faint traces of painting occur in the thirteenth century ¢
but the names and country of the artifts do not appeat, except that of
William of Florence, where the art had faintly begun to revive. In
the reign of Edward I. the magnificent caftles built in Wales atteft the
genius and skill of the architeéts, while their iudividual fame is loft in ob,
D {curity
34 ENGLAND
fcurity : and towards the end of the fourteenth century, rich monuments
of archite@ture and fculpture are interfperfed with fome few remains of
painting. But England continued, till the laft century, to import her
chief painters from abroad; as Holbein, Antonio More, Zucchero,
Janfen, Mytens, Rubens, Vandyke, Lely, Kneller, &c. &c. Yet in
miniature and engraving, there were excellent native artifts in the feven-
teenth century, and an eminent native architect, Inigo Jones. In the
beginning of the eighteenth century, even the noble architeéture of St.
Paul’s did not redeem the other arts from great decline, till Hogarth
inftituted examples of ethic anti cliaraCteriftic painting, which have de-
fervedly excited the admiration of Europe. The prefent reign has not
only been diftinguithed by patronage of the arts, but been fortunate in
exuberance of artifts of deferved reputation. In painting, engraving,
architeCture, and fculpture, we now alfo boaft of many diftinguithed
native names ;- but in mufic we {till revere the fuperior skill of the Ger-
mans and Italians.
Epucation.] Ina view of any country, education forms one of the
moft important topics, as its coafequences extend to the effence and well-
being of the community. The education of the lower claffes in England
had Reacme extremely neglected, before the benevolent inftitution of the
Sunday fchools. There can be no doubt that where the common people
are the beft inftructed, there they will be found the moit quiet, contented,
and virtuous; as they feel a confcious felf-refpect, are accultomed to be
treated with regard by each other, and will chearfully extend the fame
reverential conduct towards their fuperiors in the favours of fortune ; and
a practical eftimate of the advantages of general education, may be
formed by comparing the negleéted peafantry of Ireland, with the peace-
able Hi Sanders of Scotland, where public fchools exit in every parith,
The middle and higher ranks of Enghith {pare no expence in the educa.
tion of their fons, by private tutors at home, or at what are called day
{chools and boarding fchools. Our moft eminent public fchools are
thofe of St. -Paul’s, Weftminfter, Eton, and Wiucheiter; and from
them have arifen fome of the mol diftinguifhed ornaments of their
eountry. The fcholars in due time proceed to the univerfities of Oxford
and Cambridge ; foundations of an extent and grandeur that imprefs ve-
neration. ‘The number and cera of the colleges wiil appear from the ful-
lowing lift:
Univerfity of Oxford.
-4263. Bualiol College—Founder, John Baliol (father of John, king of
Scotland and his wife, Dervorgilla, countefs of Galloway.
1270. Merton College, firft erected at Malden, near Kingiton, in
Surrey, A. D. 1260, and ten years after removed to Oxf id.
The founder was William de Merton, Lord Chancellor te
Henry III.—Walter Merion, bifhop of Rochetter.
4292. Univerfity College—William, archdeacon of Durham*.
1316. Exeter College—Walter Stapleton, bifhop of Exeter.
1327. Oriel far are 9 de Brome, almoner to Edward II.
1340. Queen’s College— Robert Eglesfield, chaplain to queen Philippa,
1379. New eee of Wickham, bifhop of Wincheiter.
1420. Lincoln College—Richard Fleming, archbithop of York.
1437- All-Soule—Archbifhop Chicheley, archbifhop of Canterbury.
1458. Magdalen Colle illiam of Wainflet, bifhop of Wincheiter.
3512. Brasen Nofe-William Smith, bifhop of Lincoln.
® Cough’s Camd, i. p. 3¢% bc.
516.
3516
5524
1518.
1437+
1571.
1613.
1624.
The
founda
founde
date of
two ol
lation, |
of divin
at othe:
1348, a
1351. 7
1356. B
1443. K
1448, Q
1475+
1496. Je
1506. C
15at. St
1542. M
1546. T
1584. Ex
1596. §
1809. D
Of the
ford is the
peas bui
ut the ¢
fingle edi
Naries im
archite@tu
nefe and fj
Citizs
and towns
accordin
fated with
the north,
arith.
ducae
day
8 are
from
their
xford
(s Ve
e tul-
ENGLAND. 35
3§16. Corpus Chrifti—Richard Fox, bifhop of Winchefter.
524 Chrift Church—Wolfey and Henry VIII.
1518. Trinity College—Thomas Hatfield, bifhop of Durham, and
completed by Sir Thomas Pope.
1437- St. ae archbifhop Chickeley, re-endowed by Sir Thomas
ite, 1557.
1571. Jefus Colle z Dr. Price.
1613. Wadham—Nicholas Wadham, Efq.
1624. Pembroke—Thomas Tefdale, Efq. *
There are befides feveral halls or fmaller colleges, and fome recent
foundations. The laudable favour of the Oxonians adores Alfred as the
founder of what is called the Univerfity College, and even affigns the
date of 886; but candid antiquaries affert, that the paffage in one or
two old chronicles alleged in ha port of this idea, is a manifeft interpo-
lation, not to be found in the belt manufcripts: and though great fchools
of divinity may have previoufly exifted at Oxford, fuch were alfo knowa
at other places which lay no lab to the title of univerfity.
Univerfity of Cambridge.
1257- Peter-houfe—Hugh Balfham, bifhop o or
1344. Clare-hall—Elizabeth de Burg, countefs of Ulfter.
1343. “’embroke-hall—Mary de Valentia, countefs of Pembroke.
1348, and 1557. Gonville and Caius—The Doctors fo named.
1351. Trinity-hall—William Bateman, bifhop of Norwich.
1356. Bene’t or Corpus Chrifti—Henry Duke of Lancatter.
1443. King’s College—Henry VI.
1448. _ College—Margaret of Anjou.
1475. Catharine-hall—Dr. Woodlark.
1496. Jefus eg aie Alcock, bifhop of Ely.
1506. Chrift’s College) Margaret, Countefs of Richmond, mother of
15i1. St. John’s enry VII. e
1542. Magdalen College—Thomas, Lord Audley.
1546. Trinity College—Henry VIII.
1584. Emanuel—Sir Walter Mildmay.
1596. Sydney College—Frances Sydney, countefé of Suffex.
1809 Downing College—now erecting, in purfuance of the will and
bequett of Sir George Downing, Bart.
Of the two univerfities, many minute defcriptions have appeared. Ox.
ford is the more majeftic ; from the grandeur of the colleges and other
ublic buildings, and the fuperior re ularity and neatnefs of the ftreets :
but the chapel of King’s College, at Gambrdge, is fuppofed to excel any
fingle edifice of the other univerfity. Both of thofe maguilicent femi-
naries imprefs every feeling mind with reverential awe; not only by their
architetural dignity, but by « thoufand collateral ideas of ancient great-
nefs and {cience. ‘
\ Cities anv Towns.) In giving a brief account of the chief cities
and towns in’ England, a few of the moft important fhall be arrangea
according to dignity, opulence, and population: and the others fhall be
pee eae preference, in a kind of progrefs from the fouth-weft te
hortn,
* © Gough's Camd. i. p. 308, &e,
Da Lownoy,
36 | ENGLAND.
Loxnon, the metropolis of England, is fituated in an extenfive plain
or valley, watered by the Thames, and only confined on the north by a
few fmall elevations ; being a place of great antiquity, and firft. men-
tioned by Tacitus. It now includes Southwark, a borough on the
other fide of the Thames, and Weftminfter, another city on the wett ;
fo that, like fome places of ancient geography, it might be named 7ri-
polis, or three cities. The noble river Thames is here about 440 yards
in breadth, crowned with three bridges, crowded with a foreft of mafts,
and conveying into London the vealth of the globe, forming an excel-
lent port, without the danger of expofure to maritime enmity. It is,
however, a great defect, that inftead of open quays and ftreets on the
banks of the ftream, the view is obftruéted on both fides by irregular
maffes of building, which do not even admit of a path. London pre-
fents almoft every variety which diverfifies human exiftence, Upon the
caft it is a fea-port, rontvie with mariners and with the trades conneéted
with that profeffion. Inthe centre, it is the feat of numerous manufac-
tures and prodigious commerce ; while the weftern or fafhionable extre-
mity prefents royal and noble {plendour, amidit {cenes of the higheft
Juxury and moft ruinous diffipation.
Few cities can boaft a more falubrious fituation, the fubjacent foil
being pure gravel ; by which advantage, united with extenfive fewers,
the houfes are generally dry, cleanly, and healthy. Provifions and fuel
are poured into the capital, even from diftant parts of the kingdom ; the
latter article being -coals, from the counties of Northumberland and
Durham, transferred by fea, and thence denominated fea-coal*, Lon-
don requires in one year 101,075 beeves, 707,456 fheep, with calves and
pigs in proportion: the vegetables and fruits annually confumed are
valued at a million fterling f.
The population of London has by fome been exaggerated tea million
of fouls; but by the late enumeration it contains about 860,000. _ Its
length from Hyde-park Corner on the weil to Poplar on the eaft, is
about fix miles; the breadth unequal, from three miles to one and lefs ;
the circumference may be about fixteen miles. The houfes are almoft
univerfally of brick, and difpofed with infipid fimilarity; but, in re-
compence, moft of the ftreets are excellently paved, and have conve-
nient paths for foot paffengers ; a mark of rofpett to the common people
almoft unknown to the capitals on the Continent. Another national
feature is the abundance of charitable foundations for almoft every infir-
mity and diftrefs incident to human nature, ‘The multitude and rich
difplay of the fhops imprefs ftrangers with aftonifhment ; nor are they
lefs furprifed at the conftant torrent of population rolling through the
principal ftreets, nor at the fwarm of carriages at all times crowding all
the roads to the capital, and the noéturnal iluminations which extend
even to four or five miles of the environs. ‘Though the impreffion of the
tide be felt uo far as Staines, the Thames at London, and a confiderable
way below, is untainted with falt. [t. waters are raifed by machinery,
and conducted in innumerable pipes for dometlic ufes; while the parts
more remote are fupplied with water from fome fmall ponds near Hamp-
ftead, and frem that laudable work ef Middleton, the New River,
which conveys a copious addition from the north, '
* Mr. Middleton, in his View of Middlefex, r807, fuppofed that 700,000 chaldrons
are vearly confumed in that county. Stewart on Coal, p. 191, lays 886,167.
+ Ibid. 643. Mr. Pennant, Brit, Zool. 4. 9. lays, 60,000 lobfters are annually brought
t@ London from near Montrote,
The
T
reftir
houfe
miles,
magn
ceptic
tah
defe&
4 We
ein
but A
and pr
gogue.
terwar
feflor,
edifice
chapel,
this che
Adjace
vaft roc
oak, an
of juftic
he
beautifu
alfo the
painted |
theatre «
the archi
Near
molt of t
memorat
Tower is
riofities \
gular bui
Buckin
fome val
taille of t
exuberan
houfes in
tions of
tinguifhah
ChefterGe
Lanfdow
ring-crofs
wall; and
in Piccad
mall, be f
York.
opulence,
rovince,
The name
which den
t*mpo
venerable ¢
f celebra
illion
Its
ft, is
lefs ;
Imoft
n re-
onve-
beople
tional
infir-
1 rich
they
rh 4
ng a
Rend
of the
erable
hinerys
parts
amp-
River,
aldrons
brought
The
ENGLAND. 37
The environs of London prefent a fpeétacle almoft as grand and inte.
refting as that of the metropolis itfelf. Extentfive ftreets of villas and
froufes are continued in almoft every direétion within feven or eight
miles. Yet few of the public edifices in London can pretend to much
magnificence. The cathedral of St. Paul’s forms one of the chief ex-
ceptions; the exterior architéCture of this principal cathe:’.al of the Pro-
tehant faith being majeftic to # degree‘of fublimity, but the interior is
defective in decoration.
Weltmintter-abbey may claim the next rank to St. Paul’s cathedral ;
being not only in itfelf a grand impreffive edifice of the Gothic clafs,
but as being the fanétuary of the illuftrious dead of all ranks, periods,
and profeffions, from the viéterious monarch down to the humble peda-
gogue. It was founded by Sebert, king of the Eaft Saxons; was af.
terwards ruined by the Danes, and re-founded by Edward the Con-
feffor, whofe tomb is the moit ancient now remaining. The prefent
edifice wes the work of Henry III.; and Heury VII. added an elegant
chapel, and his tomb, the work of Torrigiano: in the vaults under
this chapel, the late monarchs and their offspring have been depofited.
Adjacent are the two houfes of parliament, and Weftminiter-hall; a
vaft room, 230 feet long and 70 wide, with a curious cieling of Irith
oak, and apartments on the fide, in which are held the principal courts
of juftice.
The churches and chapels exceed 200 in number, anda few are of
beautiful architeéture. Some are the productions of Inigo Jones; as is
alfo the noble banqueting-houfe at Whitehall, with a matterly cieling
painted by Rubens, reprefenting the apotheofis of JamesI, ‘The new
theatre of Covent-garden may be added as doing honour to the tafte of
the archite@ and managers.
Near London bridge, a pillar of 193 feet elevates his bold front above
moft of the f{pires, and is called the Monument, being deftined to com-
memorate the conflagration of London in the reign of Charles II. The
Tower is only venerable from ancient fame, ro remarkable for the cu-
riofities which it contains. The royal palace of St. James’s is an irre.
gular building, of very modeft afpeét. The Queen’s palace, formerly
Buckin ee only afpires to elegant convenience, but contains
fome valusihe paintings, Pe i an excellent library formed folely i the
taite of the reigning monarch. The palace of Kenfingtor pre‘cnts an
exuberance of valuable piétures, little known, and aly vilited. The
houfes in the weft-end of the town of themfelves thew the gentle grada-
tions of rank in England; thofe of the chief nobility be iy va: fy dif.
tinguifhable from the others: the more remarkable are Yoley-houfe g
Chefterfield-houfe ; Lord Spencer’s, in the Green-park ; Marquis of
Lanfdowne’s, Berkeley-fquare; Duke of Northumberlar:\’:, at Cha-
ring-crofs; Burlington-houfe, with a fine colonnade behind’ ine front
ef and thofe of the Duke of Devonthire and the Earl of Bath, all
in Piccadilly ; nor mult Cumberland-houfe and Carleton-hou'c, in Pall,
mall, be forgotten,
YORK. Rext to the capital in dignity, though not in exient nor
opulence, i¢ York; which’ is not. only the chief of a large and fertile
rovince, but may be regarded as the metropolis of the North of England,
he name has been gradually corrupted from the ancient Eboracum ; by
which denomination it was remarkable, even in the Roman times, for the
temporary refidence and death of the Roman Emperor Severus. ‘This
venerable city is divided by the river Oufe ; and the Gothic cathedral iy
of celebrated beauty, the weltern front being peculiarly rich, the chief
b
; towes
38 ENGLAND.
tower very lofty, and the windows of the fineft painted glafs. York
divides with Edinburgh the winter vifits of the northern gentry. Its
inhabitants, according to the late enumeration, amount to 16,145.
Liverpoo,. But Liverpool, in Lancafhire, is now much nearer to
London in wealth and population : being the feat of a vaft commerce,
which has been continually on the inaveslh fince the beginning of the laft
century, when it was merely a village. In 1699, Liverpool was admitted
to the honour of being conftituted a parifh. In 1710, the firft dock was
conftruéted ; and the chief merchants came originally from Ireland, a
circumftance which has given a diftinét tinge to the manners of the town.
Thenceforth the psiaeart was rapid, and in 1760 the population was
computed at 25,787 fouls*. In 1773, they amounted to 34,407 ; in
1787, to 56,6703 and by the enumeration in 1801, they were found to
have increafed to 77,652. ,
The number of hips which paid duty at Liverpool in 1757, waa
13713 in 1794, they amounted to 4265. Inthe A.frican trade, once a
diftinguifhing texture of Liverpool, there was only one fhip employed in
1709 ; in 1792 they amounted to 132. In the recent aét for the con-
tribution of feamen to the royal navy, according to the thips regiftered
in each, the eftimate is as follows ;
London, 5725 Hull, 731 Briftol, 666
Liverpool, 1711 Whitehaven, 700 Whitby, 573
Newcaltle, 1240 Sunderland, 669 Yarmouth, 506
Bristov is ftill a large and flourifhing city, though much of its com-
merce with the Weft Indies and America have paffed to Liverpool.
This metropolis of the weft of England gradually rofe to eminence in the
Anglo-Saxon period ; and was fo flourifhing and opulent in the reign of
Henry II. that, befides other cl.arters, he granted the poffeffiun of
Dublin, in Ireland; and a colony from Briftol was accordingly tranfplant-
ed+. The trade with Ireland has continued chiefly to center in this
city : even in that reign, as ancient writers inform us, the port of Briflol
was replete with velfele from Ircland, Norway, and other parts of Europe.
Briftot is pleafantly fituated at the confluence of the Froome with the
Avon. The hot-wells in the neighbourhood appear to have been known
in 1480: but the water was chiefly ufed externally till about the year
1670 ; when a baker dreaming that his diabetes was relieved by drinking
the water, he tried the experiment and recovered {. Since that period
its reputation has incrcafed, and many commodious and elegant erections
have contributed to recommend thefe wells to invalids. In the adjacent
rocks are found beautiful cryflals, which before the introduction of
artificial gems, were greatly in fafhion for female ornaments. ‘The trade
of Briftol is 7 with Ireland, the Weft Indies, or North America,
Hamburgh, and the Baltic ; that with Guinea, not the moft laudable,
had been refigned to Liverpool. By the navigation of the two rivers
Severn and Wye, Briftol alfo engrofles much of the trade of Wales. In
1787, Briftol employed about 1600 coafting veffels, and 416 fhips en-
gaged in foreign commerce|!. Inhabitants in 1801, 68,645.
atu. ‘The proximity may here authorife the mention of Bath,
efteemed the neh elegant town in England. The hot-baths, from
which it derives its name, were known in the Roman times ; nor was their
celebrity loft, even in the dark period of Anglo-Saxon hiftory. But the
* Aikin’s Man. 333. et feq. + Barret's Briftol, 49. 57. $ Thid, 93.
§ Barrett's Briftol, 190
town
town
water:
and pi
called
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merely
fecond
The he
nity.
But
Manch
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of Man
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time of |
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Shel
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navigable
The plat
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30,000}}.
The ot
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* Aikin’s
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ool. A
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t the
0D
ENGLAND. 39
town has been greatly enlarged and decorated in the laft century. The
waters are ufed both internally and externally, chiefly in gout, bilious,
and paralytic cafes; being frequented at two times in the year, what is
called the fpring feafon from April to June, and the autumnal from
September to December. T'wo thirds of the company are attracted
merely by amufement, fociety, and diffipation ; in all which it is only
fecond to London. Situated in a vale, Bath is very hot in fummer,
I'he houfes are conftructed of white limeftone, which abounds in the vici-
nity. Its inhabitants in 1801, amounted to 32,200.
But next to Briftol, in point of opulence, muft be claffed the towns of
Manchetter, Biriningham, and Sheffield.
Manchetter, in Lancafhire, was known in the Roman times under the
name of Mancunium, 2 fmall Roman ftation ; but it continued in obfcurity
till the tirae of Elizabeth *, when Camde:. mentions its manufacture of
woollen-cloths, then called cottons. During the civil wars under Charles
[., Manchefter remained in the hands of the parliament. In 1708, the
inhabitants were only computed at 8000. In 1757, they fell fhort of
20,000 ; at prefent, they amount to, 84,020. The cotton manufactures
of Manchefter are fufficiently known over Europe ; and the machinery,
greatly indebted to the genius of an Arkwright, excites aftonifhment at
t.e progrefs of human art and induftry +,
Birmingham, in Warwickhhire, was originally a village, belonging to
a family of the fame name, whofe monuments remain in the old church.
Leland mentions it as a town inhabited by {miths and cutlers, in the
time of Henry VIII. ; and by lorimers, now called bit makers. The
extenfion ak improvement of Birmingham originated in a great degree
from Mr. John ‘Taylor, who introduced the manufaéture of gilt buttons,
and japanned and enamelled works ; but the toy manufacture was known
in the reign of Charles II. The great fabrick called Soho, belonging
to Meflrs. Boulton and Watt, is fituated about two miles from Birming-
ham, but in Staffordfhire. Between the year 1741 and 1790, Birming-
ham had received an augmentation of feventy-two ftreets, 4172 houfes,
and 23,320 inhabitants ¢ : the population in 1791, amounted to 73,670.
Shefield, in the moft fouthern part of Yorkthire, is ftyled by Leland
the chief market-town in Hallamthire (for in the north many particular
diftriéts ufurp the name of fhires.) ‘The company of cutlers of Hallam.
thire was eftablifhed by act of parliament in 1625 ; but Sheffield bad
been diftinguifhed for a kind of knives cailed whittles, and other articles
of cutlery as early as the thirteenth century ; yet til! within che laft
half century, the manutactures of Sheffield were conveyed weekly to the
metropolis, on pack horfes. In 1751, the river Don was rendered
navigable to within two miles of the town 3 which facilitated the export,
‘The plated goods commenced about 1758. In the year 1675, the popu-
lation only amounted to 2152; in 1755, to 12,983 ; ‘in 17809, about
30,000||. At prefent, it is equal to 35,000.
The other chief towns in England, not afpiring to fuch pre-eminence,
though feveral be of far more importance than others, fhall be clafled, as
b-fore-mentioned, in a kind of geographical order, beginning at the
fouth-wef, and proceeding to the north.
Falmouth, in Cornwall, the moft wefterly port in England, with a
population of 3,684, is chiefly remarkable for the arrival and difpatch of
packet-boats and is now forming into a naval depdt ; but Exeter, in
* Aikin’s Man, 146. + Aikin’s Manchefter, 149. 156,
} Hutton’s Mit. of Birmingham, } Arkin’s Mau. 5 yy. et eq,
D4
40 ENGLAND.
the adjacent county of Devon, is an ancient and refpetable ‘city,
It is the feat of an extenfive commerce in coarfe woollen goods,
manufactured in a part of Somerfetfhire and in Devon and Corn-
wall *. »They are exported to Italy, and other parts of the con-
tinent, to the annual value, as is fuppofed, of 600,000l., and the Eaft
India Company purchafe yearly to a confiderable amount. Befides
the native wool of the above mentioned counties, Excter imports from
Kent about 4000 bags a year. Some fhips are qlfo occupied in the cod-
fifhery of Newfoundland, and in the Greenland capture of whales. The
imports are from Spain, Italy, Hamburgh, and the Baltic ; and coals
from the north of England and Wales. It is, moreover, the refidence
of many genteel families ; and the. frequent refort pf others from the
neighbouring counties. Inhahitants, 17,398.
Plymouth is a celebrated port, with a population of 43,194.
Dorchetter, the chief town of the county of Dorfet, is a place of
contiderable antiquity, fituated on the river Fromg 3; but has no manu-
factures, and is only celebrated for its malt liquor. Inhabitants, 2,402.
Salifbury, the principal town of Wiltthire, is chiefly remarkable for
extreme neatnefs; and for its, cathedral, a beautiful piece of Gothic
archite ‘ture, with the loftieft fpire in England, the height being 4oo
feet. “here is a manufacture of flannels, and another of cutlery goods
perios
atter
ate
jeftic grvity than of magnificence ; and has no fpire, having been
ed before that mode of architecture was ufed. ‘T'he afhes of feveral
Saxon monarchs are here preferved with reverenge. Not far from the
cathedral ftands the celebrated college founded by William of Wick-
ham, and which has fent forth many illuftrious chara¢ters, | The regula-
tions of this fchool are in fome initances peculiar and fevere ; but in
this, and the other grand Englifh feminaries, the equality of the pupils,
except in refpeét of age and abilities, and even the Tadimionin in which
the younger are ‘icld by the elder, tend to fteel and fortify the mind
ainit the fubfquent cares and emulations of life. the centre of the
city is 4 {mall but moft elegant.Gothic crofs ; and at the weftern extre-
mity is the fhell of a palace, built under the direétion of Sir Chriftopher
Wren, yet heavy and inelegant ; t wes begun by Charles II., but left
unfinifhed at his death. Jt has tince been ufed for French prifoners,
and in 1796 was the refidence of about 640 emigraac priefts from France.
The inhabitants of this city, by the late enumeration, amount to 5,826.
In the fame county is fituated Portfmouth, the grand naval arfenal of
England. ‘The harbour is noble and capacious ; narrow at the entrance
but [preading out into an inland bay five or fix miles in length, and
from. two to four in breadth. ‘The advantages derived from nature have
been improved by the art and induftry of fucceflive generations ; and to
} Milner’s Winchett.
® \ihin’s Engl. delineated, p. 335.
a patriot,
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79579»
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115353.
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ENGLAND. qt
a patriot, Portfmouth prefents one of the moft interefting fcenes to be
found in the Britifl’ dominidns. The regular fortificaticas towards the
land, in themfelves haypily a novelty to the Britifh eye, the magnitude
and variety of the maritime objects and manufactures, and the profpect
of Spithead, the grand focus of naval armament, confpire, with a thou-
fand relative ideas concerning the power of England, fupreme in every
fea, to excite our aftonifhment and exultation, Inhabitants, exclufive of
Gofport, 32,166.
Lewes is efteemed the chief town of Suffex ; the fituation is lofty and
picturefque, efpecially the fite of the ancient caftle belonging to'the °
once powerful Earls of Warren and Suffex. Beneath, in a pleafant
plain watered by the river Oute, ftand the ruins of an ancient nunnery.
Inhabitants, 3,300.
Chichefter retains fome little traffic ; but it is chiefly regarded as an
ancient city, and a bifhop’s fee. Brighthelmftone is a fafhionable refort for
the fea air and bathing. An extenfive beach extends four miles under lofty
cliffs ; and on the other fide are wide open downs, compofed of numerous
yerdant hills diverfified with winding cavities. Towards Shoreham are pits
of akind of bitumen, which might, perhaps, be ufed in fome manufa€ture.
When dried and rolled by the waves, it forms balls of various fizes 3
frequent on the beach and formerly ufed as fuel by the poor, though
fince forbidden on account of the noxious fmell. Brighthelmitone not only
prefents the neareft open fhore to the capital, but is diftinguifhed for
the peculiar mildnefs and falubrity of the air. Inhabitants, 7,239.
Canterbury, the chief town of Kent and the metropolis of the Eng.
lith church, is chiefly remarkable for eccletialtical antiquities. Its inha-
bitants amount to gooo. ‘The county town is Maiditone, noted for
hops and thread. Kent prefents many other important towns, as Depte
ford, Greenwich, Woolwich, Gravefend, Chatham, Rochctter, and the
fathionable reforts of Margate, Ramfgate, and Tunbridge. Dover and
Deal are remarkable havens.
Having completed this brief furyey of the chief towns to the fouth of
the Severn and the Thames, thofe of the middle and northern counties
may be again commenced from the welt.
Hereford, the capital of a county bordering on Wales, was known
in the Saxon times as an epifcopal fee, ‘The caille, fuppofed to have
heen founded in the reign of the Confeffor, was on the left bank of the
river Wye. "Phe cathedral is large ; but the town prefents little remark.
able, having gone into great decay ; the only manufacture is that of
gloves*. Inhabitants, 6828. “
Gloucefter, the capital of the caunty fo called, is admired for the re.
gularity of the four principal ftreets joining in the centre of the town,
ft oa itfelf of the traffic of the Severn ; which, among other fifth,
affords a luxurioys fupply of lampreys. 'I'his town has been recently
celebrated for its neatnefs, and the cheapne{s of provifions. Ynhabitants,
79579 ;
Worcctter is alfo fituated on the noble river Severn, over which there
ig a beautiful bridge. The manufactures are chiefly gloves and woollen
ftuffs ; and the porcelain maintains a high reputation. Inhabitants,
115353.
On the eaft, the firft town of no’ ¢ is Coventry, elteemed the moft inland
and centrical of the Englith towns ; whence, perhaps, the military phrafe
vf fending a man to Coventry, where he would be the molt remote from
* Gough's Camden, ii. ago.
fervice,
Plena dees.
42 ENGLAND.
fervice, The manufactures are chiefly ribbons, with a few gauzes and
camlets, The beautiful crofs ereéted in 1541, after being much da-
maged by the lapfe of years, has been taken down*. Inhabitants, 16034.
The next memorable place is the city of Norwich, the capital of
Norfolk. It is, however, not mentioned till the year. 1004 3 when it
was ruined by the Danes. The worfted manufactory is fuppofed to have
been introduced here by the Flemings, in the twelfth century, and was
followed by that of fayes, arras, bombazeens, &c. Of late the damatks,
camlets, crapes, ftuffs, &c. here wrought, have been computed at the
yearly value of 700,000!. 3 but the fafhionable ufe of cottons, and the
interruptions of commerce by war, have confiderably leffened the con-
fumption. ‘T'he wool is chiefly from the counties of Lincoln, Leicetter,
and Northampton ; the chief exports, to Holland, Germany, and the
Mediterranean +. Norwich is of courfe opulent and extenfive, but the
ftreets are confined and devious. - Inhabitants, 36,850.
Yarmouth is a noted fea-port, with a beautiful quay ; and remarkable
for its fifheries of mackarel in May and June, and herrings in October
and November ; the latter, cured by falt, and dried in the {moke of wood,
are called red-herrings ; and,'belides home confumption, form a confi-
derable article of export to Spain and Italy. Inhabitants, 14,845.
In proceeding northwards, Lincoln mutt arreft attention 3 though
now much fallen from its former fame. The interior of the cathedral is
admired for its lightnefs and magnificence. The fheep of the county
form a celebrated breed, but the wool gaes chiefly to Norwich. Lincoln
trades in coals, imported on the [rent. Inhabitants, 7,398.
Derby, which gives name to the caunty fo called, 13 a neat town on
the river Derwent, with five parifhes and a population of about 11,000
fouls. In 1734 the firit mill for throwing filk was here eftablifhed, the
model having been brought from Italy. There is a celebrated and
unique manufacture at Derby, celebrated all over Europe, that of the
fluor, which is raifed from the Iead mines, in maffes of fuch a fize and
beauty as have never yet been difcovered in any other region of the
world.
Ina chorography of England, Leicefter and Shrewfbury might deferve
defcriptions; but its geography can only embrace the moit important
topics. The city of Chefter mutt claim the next confideration, It is of
Roman origin, and the chief ftreets are fingular in their conftruction,
being excavated beneath the level of the ground, while a covered portico,
in the front of the houfes, affords an elevated and theltered foot-path ;
beneath are the fhops and warehoufes, on the level of the ftreet, to which
tlre patfenger defcends by occafional itairs. ‘Ihe trade of Chetter is not
confiderable, but it carries on a fhare of the traffic with North Wales ;
and its two annual fairs are famous for the fale of 'rifh linens. It is the
favourite refidence of many genteel families from Wales {. Lnhabitants,
ag,csn. *
aN oar an extenfive bay of the Irifi fea, which might now be termed
the bay of Lancafter, while antiquaries affect ta retain the Roman name
of Moricamée, ftands Lancafter, an ancient and papulous town, The
name is in the north pronounced Loncatter, the proper etymology, as it
ftands upon the river Lon. When the counties of Cumberland and Weit-
moreland belenged to the Scots, this was regarded as a kind of frontier
place ; and was defended by a itrong caitJe, fituated on a commanding
*® Gough's Camden, vol. ii, p. Wags + Atkin, 216.
$ Vennant’s Yours. Akin, Qa
eminence:
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ading
ENGLAND. 43
eminence. Lancafter afterwards gave the title of Duke to princes of the
royal blood; and the contentions of the houfes of York and Lancatter are
well known. There isa bridge of five arches over the Lon; which opens
into a confiderable haven, the feat of a moderate commerce, efpecially
with the Wett Indies. A noble aqueduct has been conitruéted by Mr.
Rennie. Inhabitants 9,030.
On the eaft, the extenfive province of Yorkfhire contains many flourifh-
ing towns, belides the capital York, and Sheffield, already defcribed.
On the Humber, the wide receptacle of many rivers, ftands the great
fea-port of Hull, or Kingiton-apon-Hull; the latter name being only
that of the rivulet. The town was founded by Edward I. Several pri-
yileges were obtained trom Richard IJ.; and the firft ftaple of trade, was
ftock-tith imported from Iceland. In the civil wars of the-17th century,
Hull difplayed the firft flag of defiance againft the monarch. The har
pour is artificial, and is fuppofed to prefent the largeft dock in the king-
dom. The trade is important with America and the fouth of Europe,
but chiefly with the Baltic ; and feveral fhips are’ employed in the nor-
thern whale fifhery. The coafting traffic is extenfive in coals, corn,
wool and manufactures : and Hull fupplies the commerce of many nor-
thern counties ; having not only communication with the Trent, and
other branches of the Humber, but with the rivers and canals of York-
fhire*; Its mhabitants amounted in 1801 to 29,516.
Leeds, Bradfield, Halifax, and Wakefield, are the chief centres of
the great manufactures of wooilen cloths and ftuffs. Leeds is the princi-
pal mart for broad-cloths, or what foreigners term fine Englith cloth. It
is fituated on the river Aire, in an extentive vale ; and the population of
the parifh amounts to 53,162: the cloths are woven in the neighbouring
villages ; but are dyed, prepared, and fold at Leeds. The cloth-hall
uppropriated to the fale, is a vait edifice ; and the whole bufinefs is tranf-
acted within the {pace of an har on the market days. Halifax is an
elevated fituation, and very populous. It isthe chief market for the
thinner woollen cloths; fuch as fkuffs, calimancos, &c. Scarborough,
on the eaftern coaft, isa place of cclebrated refort for fea-bathing, and
on account of its iste euiehs the fite is romantic, but the port is
imall, and chiefly frequented by tithing veffels.
Durham is a pleafant and venerable city, extending partly over an
eminence; the river Were, winding aroynd in the form of a horfe-fhoe,
renders it peninfular.* Near the neck of land is placed the caftle, of
which little more than the keep remains; which is furrounded by the
pleafant garden of the bifhop’s adjacent palace. ‘Towards the point of
the peniniula itands the cathedral; a moit augutt editice, in.a moft auguft
lituation, with deep declivities on the fouth and weit, down to the river 3
the banks of which are finely wooded, and rich in the wild beauties of
nature, which have been improved, not injured, by the tafte and opu-
lence of the clergy. The bridge on the ealt is narrow, and meanly exe-
cuted; but on the fouth, there is an elegant modern bridge ; and on the
weft, that of bifhop Flambard is admired for the lightnefs and beauty of
the arches. About a mile from the town, on this fide, ftands Nevil’s
crofs; where David II. king of Scotland, was taken prifoner after a
bloody confiiét. The cathedral was built about the year 1004, at leaft
the lower part, which belongs to what is called the Saxon form of
architecture, and is now repairing at the expence of the bifhop and chap-
ter. Some branches of the woollen mii are carried on at Dur-
am,
> ‘eB asieaaresseas os
“4 ENGLAND.
ham, and a few elegant carpets have been lately made there in a kind of
Mofaic form. Inhabitants, 7530.
Stockton on the river Tees, Sunderland at the mouth of the Were,
and South Shields on that of the Tyne, are fea-port towns in the
bithopric (for fo the county of Durham is commonly ftyled in the north)
ef confiderable fize, trade, and population. Hart-le-Pool is only a
bathing place, _
On the river Tyne ftands Newcattle, fo termed from a fortrefs creéted
by Edward I. This large and populous town, containing 28,366 inha-
bitants, is placed in the centre of the gSand coal-mines in the counties of
Durham and Northumberland, which have for centuries fupplied London
and moft of the eaft and fouth of England with that fuel ; which has,
perhaps, contributed more to the manufactures and commerce, and cou-
fequent wealth and.power of this kingdom, than any other material or
circumftance. The coal fleets fometimes amount to five hundred fail
their ftation is at Shields, and the quays Jarrow and Willington. Even
as a nurfery of feamen, the trade is invaluable*., In all parts of the
neighbourhood are feen large carts laden with coals, and proceeding
towards the ports, on inclined planes, without the help of horfes or men,
to the great furprife of the ftranger+. Near Newcattle are alfo'found
quarries of grind-ftone ; and many glafs-houfes {moke around, the pro-
dudtions of which have been recently of remarkable purity: Other ex.
ports are, pickled falmon, lead, falt, butter and tallow. The fuburb
of Gatefhead flands on the fouth of the Tyne, and is connected with the
city by a grand bridge. The fhops and crowded ftreets recal the idea
of London; but the latter are generally narrow, fteep, and incom:
modiouts.
Berwick-upon-T weed, being on the Scotifh fide of the river, thall be
referved for the defcription of that country. The chief remaining town
in England is Carlifle, the capital of the county of Cumberland, placed
at the confluence of the rivers Pettril and Caldew, with the Eden}. The
old fortifications remain nearly entire. It is fuppofed to have been the
ancient Luguballia; but neither the caitle nor cathedral are remarkable,
‘The chief manwfactures are linens printed and checked, whips, and
fith hooks. The town is little, byt populous, containing 10,221 inha,
bitants ; and is chiefly memorable for tranfactions in the ancient wars
between Scotland and Engiand,
Wales, a country abounding in the fublime ant beautiful features of
fature, contains many towns of note ; and the defcription of a few has
been referved to this place, for the greater clearnefs of arrangement.
Swanfea is on many accounts entitled to be ranked as the firft town in
Wales. By the returns its population is eftimated at 6099, which is
eonfiderably under the real amount. It poffeffes a yery commodious
and fafe harbour, lately greatly improved by the erection of two fine
piers. Its trade in coal and copperas is ee extenfive, It itands at the
mouth of the river Tawey, which is navigable about three miles above the
town. It once poffeffed a fine caftle, very confiderable remains of which
are ftill preferved in fine repair. It is a fafhionable refort for bathers in
the fummer feafon. The coal is remarkable in mineralogy.
Caermarthen, the capital of a county, is alfo regarded as the principat
#own in South Wales: it ftands upon the riyer Towy, and was ancient!
defended by a caftle, now demolifhed. The haven is fhallow, and the
trade, of courfe, not-very confiderable ||, Inhabitants, 5,548.
* Gough's Camden, iii. 252. + Baujas, voyage en Ang). i. 163.
JY Gough's Camden, iii. 175. f Gough’s Camden, ii. 504, 507
re Pembroke,
ind of
Were,
n the
xorth )
only a
rected
§ inha-
ities of
,ondon
th has,
id cou
erial or
ed fail §
Even
} of the
ceeding
or men,
o found
he pro-
ther eX-
fuburb
with the
the idea
| incoms
fhall be
ng town
i, placed
nt. The
been the
arkable,
ips, and
21 inhae
ent wars
atures of
few has
ent.
town in
which is
modious
two fine
ds at the
above the
of which
bathers in
principat
anciently
and the
i. 163.
ty 597
embrokey
ENGLAND: 453
Pembroke, ona creek of Milford haven, is a {mall town of little com-
merce.
Caernarvon is efteemed the chief town of North Wales, for the beauty
of the fituation, regularity of the ftreets, and above all for the gran-
deur of the caftle, one of the moft magnificent in Europe, founded by
Edward I. in 1282. Here was bofn Edward II. furnamed of Caernar-
von, who was immediately created the firft Englifh Prince of Wales; his
father having equivocally promifed to the vanquifhed Weltha prince born
in their own country, and who could not fpeak one word of Englifh.
The town has a confiderable trade with London, Briftol, Liverpool, and
{reland, and has a beautiful quay along the fide of the Menai, a ftrait
between North Wales and Anglefea *.
Epirices.] Ina brief enumeration of the principal edifices in Eng-
land, the royal palaces demand of courfe the firft attention. Windfor
caitle, fituated on an eminence near the Thames, has an appearance
truly grand, and worthy of the days of chivalry. The view extends as
far as the cathedral of St. Paul’s; and the whole fcene ftrongly impreffes
the circumitances fo vividly delineated in Gray’s pathetic ode on Eton
College. This palace contains many noble paintings. Hampton Court
is in a low fituation, ornamented with aquedu€ts from the river Colne.
This palace is alfo replete with interefting pictures. Thy al gardens
at Kew are truly worthy of a great and fcientific prin« he ground,
though level, is diverfified with much art ; and the collection of plants
from all the regions of the known world, fills the admirer of nature with
delight and furprife. They are fo difpofed, that every plant finds, as it
were, its native foil and climate ; even thofe that. grow on rocks and lava
having artificial {ubftitutes,
The royal palace at Greenwich has been long abandoned, but the ob-
Yervatory does credit to fcience. It is a plain edifice, well adapted to
aitronomical obfervations, and at prefent ably fuperintended by Mr.
Pond. Dr. Herfchell’s obfervatory, inftead of containing his tele-
fcope, is fufpended from it in the open air, at Slough, near Windfor,
where he is continually extending the bounds of aitronomical know-
ledge.
Rnahg the houfes of the nobility and gentry, or palaces,.as they
would be termed on the continent, the firft fame, perhaps, belongs to
Stowe, the feat of the Marquis of Buckingham ; which, ee its enchant-
ing gardens, has been long celebrated. When Mr. Beckford’s magniti-
cent erections at Fonthill are completed, that fame will be far furpaffed.
The prefent intention, however, will be better accomplifhed by a brief
view of the edifices, as they occur in the order of counties above ar-
ranged.
Cornwall.—Mount Edgecombe, Lord Edgecombe. ,
Devonfhire.—Powderham-caftle, Courtney family.
Wilthhire.—Wilton, Earl of Pembroke’s ; Fonthill, Mr. Beckford’s.
Hamphhire.—The Grange, Mr. Henley ; the Vine, Mr. Chute.
Surrey.—Earl Spencer’s at Wimbleton; Farnham-cattle, Bifhop of
Winchetter.
Suffex.—Arundel-caftle, Duke of Norfolk ; Goodwood, Duke of
Richmond. 4 °
Kent.—-Knowle, .Duke of Dorfet; Penthurft, near Tunbridge, a
famous feat of the Sydneys.
* Pennant’s Wales, ii. 223, 227.
Effex.
tee SSS SS ————
ita SS + Fe
a
ss: Iie esse ee
—
fi, -
W 0,
Bi.
ze +E
=s PPFEE RE de
255 das x
So a J daaa = _ §
3m ol] =] sy 3
z
nN
SEN
SS a> > LAN
oe NA
NF
ENGLAND.
Effex.—Wanftead, Earl of Tilney. . a
Middlefex.—Sion houfe, Duke of Northumberland.
Bucks.—Stowe ; Bulitrode, Duke of Portland, &c. &c.
-Oxfordfhire.—Blenheim, Duke of Marlbotough ; Newnham, Earl of
Harcourt, &c. : ;
Gloucefterfhire.—Berkeley-caftle, Earl of Berkeley ; King’s Wefton,
Lord de Clifford.
Pac ecm Duke of Chandos ; Clifford-caftle, Lord
ifford.
_ Worcetterfhire.—Hagley, Lord Lyttleton. The Leafowes of Shen.
~ {tone is in Shrophhire.
Warwick hire.—Warwick-caftle, Earl of Warwick. .
Northampton.—Althorp, Earl Spencer; Burleigh, Earl of Stamford;
and Apthorp, Earl of Weftmoreland.
Pet ordfhire.—Wooburn-abbey, Duke of Bedford ; Luton, Marquis
of Bute.
Hertfordthire.—Hatfield, Earl of Salifbury; Gorhambury (once the
feat of the great Bacon), Lord Grimftone ; Moore-park, Lord Dundas,
Huntingdonfhire.-—Kimbolton-caftle, Duke of Manchefter ; Bugden,
Bifhop of Lincoln. ;
Cambridgefhire.—Thorney-abbey, Duke of Beaufort.
Suffolk.—Eufton-hall, Duke of Grafton. ‘
. ere Lord Cholmondeley ; Raynham, Lord Townf.
end.
Lincoln.—Grimfthorpe, Duke of Ancatfter.
Rutlandthire—Okeham and Burley, Earl of Winchelfea:
Leicefterthire.—Belvoir-caftle, Duke of Rutland.
Nottinghamthire.—Welbeck, Duke of Portland; Workfop, Duke of
Norfolk. -
~ Derbyfhire.—Chatfworth, Duke of Devonfhire; Keddlefton, Lord
Scarfdale.
Staffordhire.—Beau Defert, Earl of Uxbridge ; Dudley-caftle, Lord
Dudley, &c.
Shropthire.—Okeley-park, Lord Clive; Atcham, Lord Berwick,
&c. :
Chethire.—Cholmondefey-hall, Earl of Cholmondeley ; Eaton-hall,
Earl of Grofvenor. ,
Lancalter,x—Knowfley, Ear! of Derby.
Yorkthire.—Sheffield-manor, Duke of Norfolk ;
Earl of Aylefbury ; Hornby-cattle, Earl of Holdernefs ;
of Leeds, &c. &c..
Weltmoreland.—Louther-hall, Lord Lonfdale.
Cumberland.—Greyittock-caflle, Duke of Norfolk. Rie
Durham.—Raby-caitle, Earl of Darlington; Bifhop’s-Auckland,
Bithop of Durham.
Northumberland.—Alnwick, Duke of .Northumberland ; Morpeth-
caftle, Earl of Carliile,. &c. ‘
Wales abounds in elegant edifices: as Winftay, the feat of Sir WatkiA
Williams Wynn; Lord Bulkeley’s, near Beaumaris; Duke of Beaufort’s,
in Brecknockthire ; Chirk-cattle, in Denbighhhire ; Hawarden-caftle, in
Flintthire ; Swanfea and Cardiff caftles, in Glamorganhire; Powis
caftle, in Montgomery, Picton-caftle, in Pembrokethire.
Among public buildings muft not be omitted, the noble hofpitals for
feamen and foldiers, at Greenwich and Chelfea. Many of the county
halls have no inconfiderable claims to elegant architeCture.
| 13 :
a6
Wentworth-caftle,
Kiveton, Duke
Baipass.}
Brit
roads ;
ftru&tio
The fir!
over th
work, {
nected 1
bridge i
fpan of
centre, ,
weight *
A ttuper
about fiv
arch 236
, the parts
between |
at either
bridge, w
the e ega
carriages
INLAN:
of ‘the co
navigation
the coal-r
conftru&te
the canal i
ment pafle
called San!
form a can
But the
arife in fim
of Brindle
mountain,
pay
op of the
beautiful ca
nine feet in
mats,
twenty-nine
Hem: {tones
ter thi
land, it wil
ef{mo, plan
of about Save
t Gough's
ENGLAND. ay
Brivces.] The bridges are worthy the fuperiority of the Englith
roads; and a furprifing exertion in this department, is the recent con-
{trudtion of bridges in cait iron, an invention unknown to all other nations.
The firft example’ was that of Coalbrook-dale, in Shrophhire,-ere&ted
over the Severn in 1779. This bridge refts on abutments of ftone
work, the main rib confifting of two pieces, each 70 feet ‘long, con-
nected by a dove-tail joint faftened with fcrews. The road over the
bridge is made of clay and iron flag, 24 feet wide and one deep; the
{pan of the arch, 100 feet 6 inches; height from the bafe line to the
centre, 40 feet; the aha of ‘iron employed, 378 tons 10 hundred
weight *. Another iron bridge has fince been erected in the vitinity.
A ttupendous iron bridge was thrown over the harbour at Sunderland,
about five years ago ; the height of whiclt is 100 feet, andthe fpan of the
arch 236: it is compofed of detached pieces, which, if damage in any of
, the parts, may be withdrawn and replaced by others. It is fupported
between two itrong and elevated ftone piers, and the arch is furmounted
at either end by vaft hoops, fupporting the platform or paflage of the
bridge, which is thus rendered almof level. When viewed from: beneath,
the elegance, lightnefs, and furprifing height, excite admiration, and the
carriages appear as if pafling among.the clouds,
INLAND Navication.] This article is important to the bett interefts
of ‘the country, and demands particular attention. ‘The earlieft inland
0 navigation that can be authenticated, is the nage canal, leading from
the coal-pits at St. Helens, in Lancafhire, to the river Merfey, and
conftructed in order to convey coals to Liverpool+. The length of.
the canal is twelve miles, with a fall of ninety feet. The act of parlia-
ment paffed in 1755 the original intention was anly to render the rivulet
called Sankey Brook, Chinas but it was found more advantageous to
form a canal along its courfe, The furveyor was Mr. John Eyes,
But the Duke of Bridgewater is juftly venerated as the grand founder
of inland navigation : his {pirit ont opulence were happily feconded by
Brindley, than whom a greater natural genius in mechanies never exifted.
It-was in the year 1758 that the firft act was obtained for thefe great
defigns.. The firit canal extends from Worfley mill, about feven com-
puted miles fram Manchefter, and reaches that town by a courfe of nine
miles, In this thort {pace almoft every difficulty occurred that can
arife in fimilar {chemes ; but mountains and rivers yielded to the genius
of Brindley. ‘There are fubterraneous paffages to the coal in the
mountain, of near a mile in length, fometimes cut through the folid
rock, and occafionally arched over with bricks with air-funnels to the
top of the hill, fome of them thirty-feven yards perpendicular. This
beautiful canal is brought over the river Irwell,. by an arch of thirty-
nine fect in height, and under which barges pals without lowering their
mafts, The Duke of Bridgewater foon afterwards extended a canal of
twenty-nine miles in length, from Longford-bridge, in Lancafhire, to
Hempitones, in Cheshire.
ter this deferved tribute to the fathers of inland navigation in Eng-
land, it will be eligible to review the other canals in a geographical
Manner, proceeding from the north to the fouth.
FirR in order is the Lancafter canal, extending from Kendal, in
Weftmoreland, by Lancafter, to Weft Houghton in Lancathire, a {pace
of about Seventy-four miles.
© Gough's Camden, id 427. "— Philips, HUA. off Inland Navigation.
The
called that of Rochdale ; len
Another canal extends
* The canal frora Leeds to Liverpool, direéted in a northerly courfe by
Skipton, winds through an extent of 117 miles; and from this canal 4
-branch alfo extends to Manchefter,, begun in 1771.
From Halifax to Manchefter is another confiderab
le canal, commonly
th thirty2one miles and a half, begun in 1794,
m Manchefter towards Wakefield; and
another called the Peak Foreft canal, ftretches from the former, fouth.
eaft, about fifteen miles.
Another joins the river Dun, feveral miles above
‘giver Calder, near Wakefield.
To pafs feveral of fmaller note, the Chefterfield canal extends from
Chefterfield, in the county of Derby, to the Trent at Stockwith, a
courfe of forty-four miles and three quarters,’ begun in 1770.
‘+ Jn. Lincolnfhire, one canal extends from Lincoln to the
another from Horncaftle to Sleaford.
that town to the river Trent, a courfe of thirty miles.
The grand defign of Brindley was to join, by inland navigation, the
four great ports of the kingdom, Briftol, London, Liverpool, and Hull.
Liverpool is. accordingly connected with Hull by a canal from that long
navigable river the Trent, and proceeding north to the Merfey. The
canal which joins thefe two rivers is ftyled the Grand Trunk ;. and was
begun in 1766, under the direction of that great engincer ; but was not
completed till 1777: the length is 99 miles.
great difficulties, particularly in pafling the river Dove, in Derbythire,
where there is an aqueduct of twenty-three arches, the tunnel through
‘ the hill of Hare-caftle, in Staffordhire, is in length 2880 yards, and
more than 70 yards below the furface of the
with great labour and expence *.
Doncafter, to the
Trent, and
Granthan canal reaches from
It was attended with
und, and was executed
But the utility correfponds with the
grandeur of the defign: falt from Chefhire, coals and pottery from
Staffordfhire, and manufactures from various places, are tranfported on
: From the Grand Trunk five or fix branches extend in various direc.
which muft not be omitted that to the river Severn, near
Bewdley, which connects the port of Briftol with thofe of Liverpool
and Hull; the length is 46 miles ; completed in 1772.
From the city of Cheiter one canal extends to the Merfey, and an.
ether to Namptwich ; another proceeds fouth to Shrewfbury, uniting
the Merfey and the Severn ; with north-weft and fouth-eaft branches of
confiderable length. .
From Coventry, in the centre of the kingdom, canals extend to the
Grand Trunk ; to Athby-de-la-Zouch, and to the Braunfton, or Grand
What is called the Staffordthire canal, extends from the Grand Trunk -
_ fo the river Severn; and is met by the Kington canal, which reaches
to Kington, in Herefordthire, fo as almott to join the rivers Trent and
Wye. = It may be here obferved, that in this defcriptiou the grand courfes
of navigation are att:nded to, rather than the minute names and divifions
Several inland navigations pafs by Birmingham. The Union canal
eompletes a courfe of forty-three miles and three-quarters, from Leicefter
to Northampton, whence the river Nen is navigable to the fea.
® Cory's Plans, p. 26, 27, 2% The account of the Grand Trunk in Philips, is very
detective; he may here be referred to in general for the otheys. ‘see alfo Heufeman,
Another
Anoth
of Wales
that from
The S
various cc
extending
Other «
of Oxforc
canal, aft
The Br
the Tham
Braunfton,
ftyled the
rous courf
kingdom.
On the |
and anoth¢
bridge to (
A {mall ;
canal, in }
Suffex pref
Manura
merce of FE;
gitive idea ¢
dity of Eng
Phenicians
years before
among the ¢
regions, did
conquered
not whether
this commod
the wines of
fo inconfider
but in that of
has graduall
Cornwall,
extenfive afp
pervades its y
vegetation of
rious defcript
called lodes an
in feparate ft
called the beu/
ter having bee
weeyte In
rare f found
The fingula
logize for thi
quire more bre
and, as earl
ftate, till Edw.
Wool foon bec
the
ull.
on
The
was
‘not
with
hire,
ugh
ed
uted
1 the
from
d on
Hirece
near
pool
i ane
iting
hes of
o the
Srand
runk
aches
t and
burfes
ifions
canat
cefter
is very
eman,
other
ENGLAND. 49
Another canal extends,from Gloucefter to Hereford: and the fouth ©
of Wales prefents feveral navigations of confiderable length, particularly
that from Brecon, in Brecknockfhire, to Newport, in Monmouthhhire.
The Severn is not only joined with the Trent and the Humber, by
various courfes of navigation, but is united with the Thames, by a canal
extending by Stroud to Lechlade, a courfe of near forty miles.
Other canals branch out from the Thames in various dire@tin:'s :_ that
of Oxford extends to the Grand Trunk, or rather joins the Coventry
canal, after a courfe of ninety-two miles.
The Braunfton, or Grand Junétion canal, reaches from Brentford, on
the Thames, or even from Paddington, and joins the Oxford canal at
Braunfton, in Northamptonbhire, after a courfe of ninety miles. It is
ftyled the Grand Junction, becaufe it may be faid to unite the nume-
rous courfes that pervade the central counties, with the capital of the
kingdom.
On the fouth of the Thames, a canal proceeds from Reading to Bath 5.
and another from Weybridge to Bafingftoke ; and a third from Wey-
bridge to Godalmin.
A fmall canal or two have been executed in Devonfhire. The Andover
canal, in Hampfhire, extends from Andover to Southampton. water.
Suffex prefents two canals, that of Arundel, and that of Lewes.
MAnuractures AND ComMERCE.] The manufactures and come
merce of England form fo extenfive a theme, that only.a brief and fue
gitive idea of them can be here attempted. The earlieft ftaple commo-
dity of England was tin, a metal rarely found in other countries. The
Pheenicians firft introduced it into commerce, at leaft five or fix hundred
years before the Chriftian wera; and their extenfive trade foon diffufed. it
among the Oriental nations. (The Romans, upon their conqueft of thefe
regions, did not -negleé the fource of wealth; but as Cornwall was not
conquered by the Anglo-Saxons till the reign of Athelftan, we kfow
not whether the Cornifh Britons carried on any confiderable traffic in
this commodity, though it be probable that it was at leaft exchanged for
the wines of France. Yet even in the reign of John, the product was
fo inconfiderable, that the mines were farmed to Jews for 100 marks ;
but in that of Henry ITI., they began again to yield a sarge profit, which
has gradually increafed*.
Cornwall, like moft countries that abound with minerals, prefents an
gxtenfive afpeét of defolation : a feries of barren hills and bleak heaths
pervades its whole length, and the violent winds from the fea check the
vegetation of trees and fhrubs. The tin mines are numerous, and of va-
rious defcriptions, ‘T'his metal is either found in the mafs, in what are
called /odes and flools ; or in grains, or bunches, in the rocks ; or detached
in feparate ftones, called /bodes or frings ; or in a courfe of fuch ftones
called the deuheyl or living fring ; or in the pulverized fhape of fand. Af-
ter having been pounded in a mill, it is melted into blocks of 320 pounds
weight. In the ore it is ftyled black tin, and is fometimes, though very.
rarely, found in a metallic ftate.
The fingularity and importance of this firft national ftaple, may apo-
logize for this difcuffion ; but the abundance of the other topics will re.
quire more brevity. Wool had been regarded as a grand ftaple of Eng-
land, as early as the twelfth century, but was chiefly exported in a cru
fate, till Edward III. encouraged fettlements of Flemith manufacturers.
Wool foon became the ffandard of private property, and the prime article
* Borlafe’s Cozawall.
E of
50 ENGLAND.
of commerce, ‘T'axes and foreign fubfidies were eftimated by facks of
this commodity *, Great quantities of raw wool continued to be export-
ed to the Netherlands.and Hanfe Towns; but in the reign of ‘Elizabeth
it began to be chiefly manufactured at home, and the exportation of wool-
len cloths was then valued at a million and a half annually. The ex.
portation of raw wool was at length prohibited ; and the woollen fabrics
preferve great importance, though they no cu, attra&t {uch particular
regard, amidft the exuberance of Englifh manufactures..
n recent times the manufaCtures of iron and cepper, native minerals,
have become great fources of national wealth.;. nor mutt the new and ex.
tenfive exportation of elegant earthen-ware be forgotten. The cotton
manufacture is diffufed far and wide, forming a grand fource of induitry
and profperity. “That of linen, except of Bil-cloth, is not much culti.
vated in England. The manufactures of glafs and fine fteel, clocks,
watches, &c. are defervedly eminent and extenfive. As the nation is
indebted to Wedgewood for converting clay into gold, fo to Boydell for
another elegant branch of exportation, that of beautiful prints.
Befides manufactured articles, England exports a number of native
products too numerous ta be here mentioned.
. The Englifh manufaétures have been recently eftimated at the annual
value of 63,600,000/. and fuppofed to employ 1,585,000 perfons +,
Of thefe, the woollen manufacture is fuppofed to yield in round fums,
15,000,000/. the leather 10,000,000/. the iron, tin, and lead 10,000,000/,
the cotton 9,000,00e0/, The other chief manufactures, which yield
from 1 to 4,000,000/. may be thus arranged, according to their confe.
uence ; fteel, plating, &c. copper and brafs, filk, potteries, linen and
ax, hemp, plats, paper.
The commerce of England is, at the prefent period, enormous, and
may be faid to extend to every region of the globe. ‘The trade with the
Weft Indies is one of the moit important, and that with the Eait Indies
alone, wauld have aftonifhed any of the celebrated trading citics of an.
tiquity.
rom the States of North America, are chiefly imported tobacco, rice,
indigo, timber, hemp, flax, iron, pitch, tar, and lumber: from the Weft
Indies, fugar, rum, cotton, coffee, ginger, pepper, guaiacum, farfaparilla,
mancineal, mahogany, gums, &c. From Africa, gold duit, ivory,
guma, &c. From the Seat Indies and China, tea, rice, {pices, drugs,
colours, filk, cotton, falt-petre, fhawls, and other produSts of the loom.
From our remaining fettlements in North America, are imported furs,
timber, pot-afh, iron; and from the various ftates of Europe, numerous
articles of utility and luxury.
The annual income of Great Britain was eftimated in 1799 by Mr. Pitt
at 102,000,000 ; ‘and including the money, of which the eftimate is far
from certain, the whole capital of Great Britain may perhaps be calculated
at more than one thoufand two hundred millions,
In the year 1797, the amount of the exports, according to Cuftom.
houfe accounts, was 28,917,000/. and of the imports, 21,013,coo/.
yielding, as is fuppofed, clear profits on foreign trady to the amount of
at leat: 10,000,000/. The number of merchant veffels amounts probably
to 16,000 ; and it is calculated that 140,000 men and boys are employed
in the navigation.
* Campbell's Political Survey, vol. ii. p. 350,152. A work opulent in materials, but
of moft tedious and uncouth execution.
fT Ms. Grellier in the Monthly Mag. January 1802.
CHAP.
confifts
coun
We ha
and ma
are its ‘
Pennant
part of
ation i
Dover.
From
and the
from No
which th
* Th
falling four
sks of
xport-
vaboth
"wool.
he ex-
fabrics
ticular
inerals,
and ex-
cotton
nduitry
h culti.
clocks,
ation is
rdell for
f native
e annual
erfons +.
nd fums,
00,000).
ich _ yield
sir confe-
linen and
ious, and
» with the
aft Indies
ics of an-
heco, rice,
the Weft
faparilla,
{t, ivory,
es, drugs,
the loom.
brted furs,
numerous
y Mr. Pitt
ate is far
calculated
o Cuftom-
,01 3,000).
amount 0
s probably
employed
materials, but
CHAP:
ENGLAND.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate.and od bag dba of the Country. Soil and yi Sth
Rivers. —Lakes.—Mountains.—Forefts.—Botany.—Zoology.— Mine»
ralogy—Mineral Waters.—Natural Curiofities.
. HE climate of Great Britain is perhaps
Chimnniinnd SRARNE T more variable that that of int: other
country on the globe, as the vapours of the Atlantic ocean are oppofed
to the drying winds from the Eaftern continent. The Weftern coaits, in
particular, are fubjeCt to frequent rains: and the eaftern part of Scotland
is of a clearer and dryer temperature than that of England. - The humi-
dity of the climate, indeed, clothes the delicious vales and meadows with
a verdure unknown to any other region: but is injurious to the health of
the inhabitants, by caufing colds and catarrhs, the frequent fources of
more deadly diforders. .
In confequence of he mutability of the climate, the feafons themfelves
are of uncertain tenour, and the year might more properly be divided
into eight months of winter, and four of f{ummer, than into any theoretic
arrangement, originating in the fouthern latitudes. ‘What is called the
Spring dawns in April, commonly, indeed, a mild month ; but the eaftern
winds, prevalent in May, feem commiffioned to ruin the efforts of revivin
nature, and deftroy the promife of the year. June, July, Auguft, an
September, are ufually warm fummer months; but a night of frott is not -
on anieyh even in Auguft, and fometimes a cold Eaft wind will blow for
three days together; nor, of late years, are fummers unufual of almoft
conftant rain*. The winter may be faid to commence with the beginnin
of Ogtober, at which time domeftic fires become neceffary ; but there is
feldom any fevere froft till Chriftmas, and January is the moft ftern month
of the year. Yet, as our fummers often produce {pecimens of winter, fo
now and then gleams of warm funfhine illuminate the darker months,
though rarely amounting to what the French call us eté de St. Martin, or
Martinmas fummer. March is generally the moft unfettled month pf the
year, interfperfed with dry froft, cold rains, and ftrong winds, with ftorms
of hail and fleet.
Facg or THE Country.) A chief ftep to the ftudy of Geography
confifts in the knowledge of what may be termed the phyfiognomy oft the
country ; yet has no province in this {cience been fo completely neglected.
We have even maps of Scotland and Switzerland, without mountains,
and maps of China without canals. The chief features of any country
are its hills, vales, and rivers ; and of a maritime ftate, the fea-coaft. Mr.
Pennant, in his Artic Zoology, has given an admirable defcription of
part of the Englith thores, which fhall here be abbreviated, with an alter-
ra in the arrangement, as he choofes to begin: with the Straits of
lover. ish
From the mouth of the Tweed to Bamborough, extends a fandy fhores
and the moft remarkable obje& is Lindesfarn, or Holy Ifland, divided
from Northumberland by a level, which is dry at low water, but out of
which the flowing tide eozes fuddenly, ¢o the terror and peril of the un-
® The fummer of 1800 was remarkable for drynefe and warmth, {careely any rain
falling foom the 6th of June to the acth of Auguit, when a thunder-florm fucceeded,
E32 wary
‘
52 ENGLAND.
wary traveller, From Bamborough Caftley to Flamborough Head, are
moftly low cliffs, of lime-ftone, and other materials; and at Sunderland,
of a peculiar ftone ufed in building, and which feems the work of marine
infects. Scarborough ftands on a vaft rock, projecting into the waves ;
but Flamborough Head is a far more magnificent object, being formed
of lime-ftone, oF a {nowy whitenefs and ftupendous height, vifible far off
at fea. Grand caverns open on the north fide, “ giving wide and folemn
‘“‘ admiffion, through moft exalted arches, into the body of the moun.
“¢ tain, together with the gradual decline of light, the deep filence of the
¢ place, unlefs interrupted by the ftriking of the oar, the collifion of a
“ feeling wave againft the fides, or the loud flutter of the pigeons, af-
* frighted from their nefts in the diftant roof, afford pleafures of f{cenery
‘¢ which fuch formations as this alone can yield. Thefe alfo are won-
*¢ derfully diverfified. In fome parts the caverns penetrate far, and end in
‘¢ darknefs; in others are pervious, and give a romantic paflage by another
opening, equally fuperb. Many of the rocks are infulated, of a pyra.
sé midical form, and foar toa great height. The bafes of moft are folid,
*¢ but in fome pierced through and arched: All are covered with the
“© dung of the innumerable Rocks of migratory birds, which refort here
“‘ annually to breed, and fill every little projeétion, every hole, which will
“ give them leave to reft*.”” .
Frence to the Humber are commonly clay cliffs ; and near Spurnhead,
amber is fometimes found. The extenfive coaft of Lincolnfhire is flat,
and, according to Mr. Pennant’s opinion, has been gained from the fea;
though, in fome parts, the fea has in its turn invaded the land, and the
remains of a foreit ar@ vifible under the waves. The county of Lincoln,
and part of fix others, are the low countries of Britain; and the coat is
diftinguifhable by churches, not by hills. The fhores of Norfolk and
Suffolk prefent fometimes loamy or clayey precipices, fometimes hillocks
of fand, and fometimes low and flat fpaces. Hunftanton-cliff rifes to the
height of about eighty feet, compofed af chalk and friable ftone, refting
on a bafe of what is called iron-coloured pudding ftone, projeéting into
the fea. The coaft of Effex is generally low; but, to the fouth of the
Thames, arife continued cliffs oe chalk, with layers of flint, refembling
mafonry. The north Foreland is a lofty, chalky promontory ; and the
Cliffs of Dover are known to every reader of Shakefpeare.
It is to be regretted that Mr. Pennant did not extend his animated
defcription to the fouthern and weftern coafts: cliffs of chalk and clay
are inter{perfed with flat gravel, till the ifland of Portland begat its bold
rocky front. The weftern fhores abound with granite, flate rocks, and
lime-ftone.
Som anp Acricutture.] The foil and agriculture of England are
topics which have recently been, illuftrated in {uch a multiplicity of me-
ritorious works, that the fubjeat labours under the abundance of the ma-
terials. A few very general remarks mutt here fuffice. The foil is greatly
diverfified, but in general fertile ; and in no country is agriculture more
thoroughly underftood, or purfued in a grander ftyle, except, perhaps,
in Flanders and Lombardy. The nobility and gentry moftly refiding
upon their eftates in fummer, often retain confiderable farms in their own,
hands, and practife and encourage every agricultural improvement, The
writings of Mr. Young, the inititutions in the weft, and the Board of
Agriculture, recently ereéted, have contributed to diffufe a wide and laft-
ing knowledge of this interefting branch. The intermjxture of the green
* Peunant's Arctic Zoology, vol. i, p. w
crops wi
the regu
the art o:
among t
in the bre
forgotten
midf
two circu
vaft exter
acres in |
while thof
above half
fit for plat
and three.
Horticn
great affidi
and fruits,
fpirit of cu
about 120/
computed
with a jut ;
affeCtations
try ft.
RIvERs.’
important {
phical portr
terle@ted by
and the Mer
after an eaft
Gloucefter,
grefs of ab
tributary ftre
the Wye f,
The Tha
tains a fouth
receiving the
and Lee,
Wye into tha
vigable to C
The Hum
ceives many c
Of thefe the
Staffordhhire,
dire& courfe
fhire. The ot]
a navigable ftr
and the Calde
the woollen
noble river U;
branch of the
omitted, whic
the Hull, Th
* Firtt Report
t Lerd Orford
¢" oe) te. f Oh See re
ENGLAND. 53
crops with thofe of grain, the ufe of turnips, the irrigation of meadows,
the regular fubftitution of crops appropriated to the ftate of the land,
the art of driaining conduéted on {cientific principles, may be mentioned
among the recent advances of knowledge; nor muft the improvements
in the breed of fheep and cattle, introduced by Bakewell-and others, be
forgotten, though their utility to the confumer be doubtful.
midft fuch topics of juft exultation, it is mortifying to refleét upon
two circumiftances, the deficiency of a propet fupply of grain, and the
vaft extent of waite lands in this induftrious country. The cultivated
acres in England and Wales are computed at upwards of 39,000,000,
while thofe uncultivated are 7,888,777. Of thefe it is fuppofed that not
above half a million is wholly unimprovable, and perhaps a million is only
fit for plantations, while af the remainder one quarter is fit for tillage,
and three-fourths for meadow and upland paiture *. x
Horticulture, or the art of gardening, is alfo purfued in England with
great affiduity and fuccefs. The large fupply of the capital in vegetables
and fruits, and the.high prices given for early produce, occafion fuch a
fpirit of cultivation, that each acre thus employed is fuppofed to yield
about 120/. annually, the yearly confumption in the metropolis being
computed at more than 1,000,000/. Of ornamental gardens laid out
with a juft attention to the beauties of nature, and free from the uncouth -
affetations of art, England is defervedly regarded as the parent coun-
try tT.
evens) But the rivers and mountains of a country conftitute its moft
important features; and, without juft delineations of them, the geogra-
phical portrait cannot boaft much truth in refemblance. England is in-
terfeéted by four important rivers; the Severn, the Thames, the Humber,
and the Merfey. The Severn rifes from the mountain Plinlimmon, and,
after an eafterly courfe to Shrewfbury, bends its progrefs almoft fouth to
Gloucefter, whence it flows fouth-weft into the Briftol Channel, a pro-
grefs of about 150 miles, navigable as far as Welch-pool. Its chief
tributary ftreams are the Northern and Southern Avons, the Teme and
the Wye f.
The Thames originates in Cotfwold-hills, Gloucefterfhire ; and main-
tains a fouth-eafterly dire€tion, to its egrefs into the German ocean, after
receiving the Cherwel, the ‘Teme, the Kennett, another Wye, the Mole,
and Lee. ‘The Medway flows into the eftuary of the Thames, as the
Wye into that of the Severn. The courfe is computed at 140 miles, na-
vigable to Cricklade §,
The Humber is a name almoft confined to a large eftuary, which re-
ceives many confiderable rivers that fertilize the central parts of England.
Of thefe the Trent is the moft important, which rifes at New-pool, in
Staffordfhire, and, proceeding north-eaft, enters the Humber, after a
dire&t courfe of about 100 anflg, being navigable to Burton iff Stafford-
fhire. The other principal rivers that iffue into the Humber are the Dun,
a navigable ftream which runs by Doncatter; the Aire navigable to Leeds,
and the Calder navigable to Halifax, both fingularly ufeful in tranfporting
the woollen aaueeeeuret | the Warf, navigable to Tadcafter ; and the
noble river Ure, or Oufe, which runs by York, and forms another grand
branch of the Humber, navigable to Rippon: nor muft the Derwent be
omitted, which is navigable to New Malton; nor, though laft and leaf,
the Hull. The Humber may be regarded as the ftem of a venerable oak,
* Firft Report of the Committee of the Houfe of Commons, p. 22.
+ Lord Orford on Modern Gardening. ¢ Campbell, i, 146, § Ibid. i. 339.
E 3 which,
54 ENGLAND.
which, as ufual with that tree, fpreads its chief branches in a horizontal
direction.
Though the Merfey prefent a grand eftuary, its courfe is not of great
extent. It arifes in the Weft Riding of Yorkfhire, and runs to the
fouth-weft ; but the eftuary bends towards the north. The direé&t courfe
is not above fifty miles; and is navigable to Stockport; as the Irweil to
near Manchefter, and the Weever to near Northwich, and the mines of
rock-falt.
In briefly defcribing the other navigable rivers of this kingdom, it may
be proper to return to the Severn, and, proceeding fouth-weft, purfue the
ouiline of the coaft. The Avon is navigable to Bath, the Perrot to
Illchefter, the Tone to Taunton, the Taw to Barnftaple, and another
branch to Biddeford: the Camil of Cornwall, to Wedbridge, while the
Plym, Dart, and Ex, can alfo be pervaded to a confiderable height.
Another Avon is navigable to near Salifbury, the Itchyn to Winchefter,
the Arun to Arundel, the Oufe to Lewes: the Rother, which forms the
haven of Rye, is yet navigable, though fallen in fame. The Stour admits
boats even to Canterbury ; but the Medway prefents a navigable ftream
as far as Tunbridge. On the north of the Thames, the Lee is navigable
to Bifhop’s Stortford and Hertford: the Crouch conveys boats from the
fea to Hull-bridge in Effex ; the Black-water to Chelmsford, and another
branch to Colchefter. The Stour is navigable to Sudbury ; the Orwell
to Stowmarket ; the Deben to Woodbridge; the Yare and Waveney
prefent accefs to Foulfham, Norwich,and Bungay. Next is the eftuary
called the Wafh, which receives the Oufe, ‘the Nen, the Welland, the
Witham ; all ftreams of confiderable navigation. :
On the North of the Humber, the Tees admits veffels to Stockton ;
the Tyne to Newcaftle. On the Weft, the Eden is navigable to Car.
lifle; the Lun or Loyne to Lancafter and Hornby ; the Dee to Chefter;
the Conway to within two miles of LJanrwit ; the Tivey to a little above
the town of Cardigan. Milford Haven prefents branches navigable to
Haverford-weft, and to near Wifton ; and laftly, the Wye may be pur-
fued as far as Hay in Brecknockhhire.
In general it may be obferved of the Britifh rivers, that the length of .
their courfe is inconfiderable, when compared with that of the Con-
tinental ftreams. The length of the Thames, compared with that of
the Danube, is only as 1 to 7, and with that of the Nile as 1 to 12.
The Kian Ku of China, and the river of Amazons in South America,
extend through a progrefs of more than fifteen times the length of
that of the Thames. The rivers of the fouthern and middle parts
of England prefent a ftriking contraft to thofe of the north; the former
purfuing a how and inert courfe over mud, between level banka, amid
rich and extenfive meadows; while the latter roll their clear torrents over
beds of gravel, between elevated banks and rocky precipices 5 and even
bes syseant levels occur, the ftream ftill retains its banks and beds
of gravel,
OUNTAINS.] The mountains form another grand feature of geo-
graphy. They feldom appear fingle, but are either difpofed in lines or
ridges, called chains, or in anomalous clufters. When they can be ar-
anges under the firft form or denomination, as the Alps, for example,
or the Pyrenees, they afford great clearnefs to geographical limits and
defcriptions. It is not, however to be conceived, that a chain of moun-
tains forms one feries, as delineated in {mall maps, for the leading fum-
mits diverge on bath fides into extenfive ribs, gradually melting into
the champaign country. And the clufters, if accurately furveyed, iy
gener
ener
irradi
Wi!
above
Alps,
derabl
Benne
in Yor
late ac
and p
ortiot
‘ Eve:
is bette
not eve
exampl
attemp!
fection
in the f
to form
thofe of
pervade
miles S.
where it
Kelton-
Bunhill,
and We:
can hard
inthe W
Penniger
chain w
minerals
alittle :
traced i
gular bre
while a #
of Go
fhire, Su
called th¢
in Oxfor
tral ridge
as a coe
Blackdo
Devon ;
to the Lz
in the ifla
Wales
vinces; bj
actual fu
groupes.
‘tion, a ma
or the co:
county of
dreland, ¢
ental
at
“in
ourfe
eil to
nes of
t ma
ue the
‘ot to
sother
ile ong
eight.
nelter,
ms the
admits
ftream
vigable
om the
nother
Orwell
‘aveney
eftuary
nd, the
yckton ;
to Car-
‘hefter
le above
rable to
be pur-
ngth of
one
that of
I to 12.
A merica,,
ngth of
le parts
e former
a, amid
bnts over
land even
and beds
of geo-
lines or
n be ar-
example,
mits and
pf moun-
ing fum-
into
: ed, will
reners
ENGLAND. 55
enerally be found to prefent central elevations, whence fmaller oranches
irradiate. ;
While Bennevis, the higheft mountain in Scotland, is not much
above one quarter of the height of Mont Blanc, the fovercign of the
Alps, the Englifh and Welfh fummits afpire to heights ftill lefs confi-
derable ; Snowdon being only 3568 Englih teet above the fea, while
Bennevis is 4387, or, by other accounts, 50. Wharn, or Wharnfide,
in Yorkhhire, was eflimated at yoso. : wtleborough at §280 feet. A
Jate accurate meafurement has, however, reduced this latter to 2380 feet,
and probably Wharnfide ought alfo to be diminifhed in the fame pro-
orton.
Even at the prefent day, the geography of fome parts of New Holland
is better underftood than that of fome parts of Great Britain. There is
not even a feparate map of the Englifh rivers, though France fet an
example of this kind, a century and a half ago; nor has there been any
attempt to delineate the chains of mountains in England. ‘The imper-
fection of the materials mutt therefore apologize for any errors or detects
inthe fubfequent flight fketch. The mountains of Cheviot may be faid
to form a regular ridge, ranning from the fouth-weft, where they join
thofe of Galloway to the north-eaft. But there is a central ridge which
pervades England from north to fouth, beginning at Geltfdale foreft, 14
miles S. E. of Carlifle, and paffing on the weft of Durham and York fhire,
where it contains mines of coal and lead. The chief elevations, fuch as
Kelton-fell, Stanmore, Widehill-fell, Wildboar-fell, Bow-fell, Home-fell,
Bunhill,. &c. &c. arife on the weftern limits of Yorkhhire. Cumberland
and Weftmoreland prefent many detached mountains, Skiddaw, &c. which
can hardly be reduced to any diftin& arrangement ; but thofe of Craven,
in the Weft Riding of Yorkfhire, as Wharnfide, Ingleborough, and
Pennigent ; and Pendle, on the eaft of: Lancafter, ‘belong to the central
chain which proceeds fouth, through Derbyhhire, ftill abounding with
minerals and natural curiofities ;’ but ‘here it feems to terminate, {preading
alittle into Chefbire. A central chain of {maller elevation may be
traced in a xigzag line, to near Salifbury, with two divergiias and irre-
gular branches on the eaft, one towards Norfolk, another into Kent,
while a third runs fouth-weft into Cornwall. ‘To the firft belong the hills
of Gogmagog, in Cambridgefhirc, &c. to the fecond the hills of Hamp-
fhire, Surrey, and Kent. Another upland tra& of confiderable elevation,
called the Chiltern-hills, extends from Tring in Hertfordfhire, to Henley
in Oxfordfhire. Malvern hilts, in Worcefterfhire, deviate from the cen-
tral ridge, while thofe of Cotfwold, in Gloucefterfhire, may be regarded
as a continuation of it. The hills of Mendip, Polden, Sedgemoor,
Blackdown, in Somerfetfhire ; the Tors and Wilds of Dartmoor, in
Devon ; and the hills and upland downs of Cornwall, extend this chain
to the Land’s Ends and after paffing this laft rocky province, it expires
in the iflands of Scilly. :
Wales is a country abundant in mountains, efpecially the northern pro-
vinces; but their orology remains indeterminate, and it would require the
actual furvey of an experienced engineer to reduce them to chains or
groupes. ‘To pear with the north, Snowdon commands the firft atten-
tion, a mountain of eminent height and fame. The top is called Y Widdfa,
or the confpicuous, forming almott a point, and prefenting a view of the
county of Chelter, the mountains of Yorkthire, part of Scotland and
Zreland, and the ifles of Man and Anglefey*.
® Pennant’s Journey to London, p. 1706
E
The
56 ENGLAND.
The ftone that compofes it is petrofilex and argillaceous {chiftus, large
coarfe Saget: are often found in the fiffures, and very frequently cubic
pyrite, the ufual attendants on Alpine tracts. From Snowdon, a line of
mountains extends by the fea to Plinlimmon, a boundary of North Wales,
whence iffues the noble rivers Severn and Wye. ‘Of thefe hills, Urrou
Seth, Caer Idris, and Moel Vadiau, are the moft memorable. The hills
on the eaft of North Wales are far from attaining fuch confiderable eleva.
tion, and gradually decline to the hills of Shropfhire, of which the Wrekin
is one of the moft. noted.
A chain proceeds due fouth to near Cardiff in South Wales; it is of
far inferior height, and a fmall branch diverges to the weft, confifting of
Cwm Cothy, Mynydd, Carreg, Brilley, and Cwm Kerrun-hills. On the
eaft of South Wales are the hills of Herefordfhire, the Black Mountain,
Cufop-hill, Hargeft, Stockley-hill, &c.
In the northern and weftern mountains and hills, chalk is unknown,
while it forms a chief material of thofe of the fouth and eait. An eminent
naturalift obferves, that a line drawn from Dorchelter, in the county of
Dorfet, to the county of Norfolk, would form a boundary of the great
chalky ftratum which interfeéts the kingdom, none being found in any
quantity to the north or weft of that line*. The northern mountains are
moftly compofed of limeftone, fandftone, flate, or fchiftus, with mines
of lead or coal; thofe of Derbyfhire prefent vaft maffes of limeftone,
interfected with thick. veins of toad{tone, and numerous foffils and mine.
rals, the confideration of which is referved for a future article., The
fummit of Skiddaw prefents white fhivery flate, or argillaceous {chiftus ;
but fome of the Weftmoreland mountains contain filiceous {chiftus ; and
it is probable that granite may exift in thofe of Cheviot. The vaft bafe of
Ingleborough, near 30 miles in circuit, confifts of limeftone; on the
eait fide full of fhells to near the fummit, which is of grit and fandftone.
flag ; the foffils, black and brown marble, thin flate, near Ingleton, rotten
ftone, or tripoli, and fome lead oref.» And fuch is this chain to its ter-
mination ; while further to the fouth the eafterly elevations are of chalk ;
and thofe on the weft, as Mendip hills in Somerfetthire, are wholly cal-
careous. The granite begins at Dartmoor in Devonshire, and continues
through Cornwall, where it occurs of various colours, the gréy granite,
or moor-ftone ; the red, or oriental; the white, the yellow, and the
blueifh, or pigeon-coloured{. Near the Lizard and Mullion are rocks
of ferpentine and fteatites, together with a decompofed granite, which is
-fimilar to the pettnfi of China, and applied to the fame purpofes in the
manufacture of porcelain.
The Welfh mountains abound in flate, horn-ftone, and porphyry,
with large mafles of quartz. The Wrekin, about ten miles eaft of
Shrewfbury, is chiefly compofed of reddifh chert, or petrofilex, with
filiceous fand-ftone, bafalt, and a kind of granite|}|. ‘The great coal
diftri& of Coalbrookdale refts on indurated clay, while that near Briftol
is accompanied by black free-ftone, and even the calcareous freeftone
near Bath is interfperfed with numerous veins of coal. The Malvern
hills, on the S.W. of Worcefterfhire, run N. and S. about ten miles,
and afford many granitic rocks with chert and hornblende flate§. Thefe
few notices mutt fuffice on the compofition of the Englifh mountains,
* Pennant’s Journey from Chefter to London, p. 214.
+ Guide to the Lakes, 265, 267.
I Pryce's Mineralogy of Corgwall. Maton's Weftern Tour, &e
| Townfon’s Tracts, p. 163,
§ Ibid. 216.
a fubject
a fubjer
deferves
Fort
of a reg
lawns an
of trees
the tern
refts we
but the ]
wards of
the chie:
Sherwoo
Forett, i:
the king
the Baro:
defpotic
bourin
Gant,
{pecies o
adequate |
our blaft:
the light -
treafures,
exuberanc
inhabitant:
with a ric]
rably our |
peds; and
and roe-de
cattle.
The Flo
exquifite o
nera find
tion of indi
ardour, an
native veget
The Re
Almoft eve
covered wit
tion, we fi
barren trac
indebted for
carpeting o
of our moun
ten fpecies o
occurrence }j
been proved
whether fre
cattle, The
meadow fox
grafs; the c
of marfhes a
riant $ and if
the defe& is
that they fup
eaftern and {¢
ines
one,
1ine-
The
tus ;
and
fe of
the
tones
tten
8 ter-
alk ;
cal-
inues
anite,
’ the
ocks
ch is
a the
R of
with
coal
riftol
{tone
lvern
iles,
Chefe
tains,
deferves.
ENGLAND.
57
a fubjeét which only begins to attract the attention which its curiofity
Forests.] To the reader of poetry the word foreft conveys the idea
of a region replete with thick and tall woods, interfperfed with romantic
lawns and murmur:
in
i
rivulets. But in England a foreft is fometimes bare
of trees, or not unfrequently only prefents a few withered oaks; and
the term is even applied to upland downs and heaths.
Many of the fo-
refts were, even in the Anglo-Saxon times, efteemed royal demefnes ;
but the Norman monarchs were fo. much addicted to the chace, that up-
wards of fixty forefts at one time appertained to the crown; of which
the chief now remaining are the forefts of Dean, in Gloucefterhhire ;
Sherwood, in Nottinghamfhire ; Windfor, in Berkfhire; and the New
Foreft, in Hamphhire.
The royal forefts conftituting fo large a part of
the kingdom, fubjeé to peculiar regulations, many grievances arofe, till
the Barons exacted from Henry III. the foreft charter ; in which feveral
defpotic laws were revoked, and more equity extended to the neigh-
bouring proprietors and tenants.
GeneraL Sxertcn or Britisn Botany. | Asnong
fpecies of vegetables which are natives of Britain, fcarcely any are
adequate to the fuftenance and cloathing of man. Our frequent rains,
our blafting winds, and the fcanty portion to which we are ftinted of
the light and heat of the fun, deprive us entirely of thofe vegetable
treafures, which, in the tropical climates, offer themfelves in overtiowing
exuberance, to fatisfy the wants and luxurious defires of their human
inhabitants.
the numerous
The never-failing verdure of our plains and hill$, covered
with a rich carpet of graffes and papilionaceous plants, ‘hews how admi-
rably our country is qualified for the fupport of gramihivorous quadru- -
peds; and we find accordingly that our ancient forefts abounded in flags
and roe-deer, as our cleared and cultivated lands do now with fheep and
cattle.
The Flora, of Britain, though it cannot boaft the moft f{plendid and
exquifite of vegetable productions, yet contains as great a variety of ge-
nera find fpecies as any other country of equal extent.
tion of indigenous plants is continually carrying on here with increafing
ardour, and every year brings new acceflions to our crowded ranks of
native vegetables,
The F
Almoft every part
rft for im
of
covered with grafs.
tion, we find the chief covering of the richeft, as well as of the moft
barren traéts, made up for the moft part of thefe plants; to thefe we are
indebted for the luxuriant verdure of our. paftures, for the clofe velvet
carpeting of our downs and fheep-walks, and the more {canty cloathin
of our mountainous diftriéts. ‘Twenty-feven genera, and a hundred an
ten {pecies of grafs, are natives of our ifland, moft of them of common
occurrence in fituations where they are found at all. None of them have
been proved to be poifonous, either to man or beaft; on the contrary,
whether frefh or dried, they furnith a grateful food to all our domeftic
cattle, The moft important graffes in meadows and paftures are the
meadow fox-tail grafs ; two or three {pecies of hair-grafs, and meadow-
grafs; the cock’s-foot fefcue, and oat-grafs, Other fpecies are natives
of marfhes and wet places; thefe are generally the largeft and moft luxu-
riant ; and if in quality they be fomewhat inferior to the preceding, yet
more than compenfated by the quantity of herba
the defe&t is probab
that they fupply.
Under almoft all the differences o
ight fandy foils, efpecially the flat
The inveftiga-
*
ortance and variety is the family of GRASSES.
the country that is not under tillage is principally
foil and fitua- *
rts of the
eaftern and fouthern coafts, abound in graffes that are hardly to be met
with
58 ENGLAND.
with in the interior of the ifland; the herbage of thefe affords a'coarfe
and {canty pafture, and they are eminently diftinguifhed from their kin.
dred fpecies by the length and ftrength of their creeping-roots, The
inhabitants of Skey, and the other weftern iflands of Scotland, manu.
facture them into durable ropes; and, while growing, they ferve the
very important purpofe of binding together the loofe fand, which other.
wife would be brifted far up the country. Upon the fides and fummits
of cur mountains are found a few grafles that do not appear elfewhere,
mixed with fome others of more general occurrence ; as, however, in
thefe bleak and elevated fituations, covered with fnow for fome months
in the year, and fhrouded in clouds for the priricipal part of the remain.
der, it would be fcarcely poffible for thefe plants to bring their feeds to
maturity, we obferve in them a wife and ftriking deviation from the com.
mon courfe of nature. Like tue reft of their tribe, they throw up flewer.
ing ftems and bear bloffoms; but thefe are fucceeded not by feeds, but
by bulbs, which in a fhort time vegetate, and are already furnifhed with
a leaf and roots before they fall to a grounds: all the viviparouagraffes,
except one (Feftuca vivipara), if tranfplanted to a lower and warmer
fituation, accommodate themfelves to their new climate, end produce
feeds, Befides thefe there are others of a more hard conttitition,
which appear to be the true natives of the mountains, and multiply their
{pecies by feed in the ufual way*.
Nearly allied to the graffes in general habit, are a number of fpecics,
natives of moors, bogs, and pools; thefe ferve to give confiftency to the
deep mud or peat in which they are rooted, and, when young, afford a
coarfe pafture to fheep and cattle; feveral of them are ufed for matting,
thatching, and for chair bottoms. The ftately Typha (bull rufh) is one
of the principal ornaments of our fens and neglected pools, and the fe.
veral {pecies of cotton-grafs enliven many a dreary mile of bog, by their
gracefully pendent tufts of {nowy white. |
The Leguminous, or papilionaceous plants, fo called from their winged
bloffoms, a avery important divifion in Britifh botany. The herbage
of all when frefh, and of many when dry, is a moft grateful food to
horfes, cattle, and fheep ; and feveral of them, as the clovers and vetches,
are largely cultivated for this purpofe. Many of this clafs are climbers,
and adofn our thickets and hedges with elegant feftoons of bloffoms and
foliage. Almoft all the Englith papilionaceous plants flourifh beft in
light calcareous foils, either rocky or fandy ; and fome of them, as the
Jady’s finger, and fantfoin, may be reckoned certain indications of chalk
or lime-ftone.
The umbelliferous plants form another large clafs in the natural ar.
rangement of Britifh vegetables, confifting of about fixty {pecies. The
roots and feeds of thofe kinds which grow on dry, ight oils, are fre.
quently aromatic ; thofe that are natives of marfhes and moift meadows,
are, for the moft part, in a greater or lefs degree poifonous. The
whole clafs, indeed, is a fufpicious one; and excepting the fennel and
celery, not a fingle native fpecies is cultivated for the food of man or
gaft.
Perhaps the moft fplendid of all the herbaceous plants are the bulbous
rooted, which, from their general refemblance to the lily, have obtained
the name of Liliaceous; moft of thefe, however, are natives of warmer
climates; the fandy deferts about the Cape of Good Hope, and the
fhores of the Indian ocean, produce the moft beautiful fpecies. Of
thofe which are found wild in England, there are only twenty-eight
* The grafs called Fiorin now uttraéts much attention, from its growth in cold and
musthy Gtuations, fo that hay may be made at Chriftmus
Species,
‘all of which
{pecies ;
truly nat
fnow-flal
fritillary,
plants, t!
of this cl
beautiful
ornament
fufe of be
Our na
si 3 fi
awthorn,
berry, the
medlar, tl
Jittle aeco
alfo to thi
One of
of the rac
cies). It
many of w
the Tra 0
nance of m
of cattle ;
is the only
have an ur
milky juice
the commo
the farmer
for they co
uadrupeds
them a piaq
ducing valt
with ong g
tions they
incapable o
of the gra
fe&ts by the
cud-weed, ¢
moft comm
Such of
be confidere
it is natural]
The moft
yew, andt
Ivy's the fp
plants, the
uva urfi (be:
The decid
n long m
avourite fc
birch, the ;
afpen, beari
lime, the el
trees and th
fe
ins
he
Us
she
ere
hits
re,
in
ths
hin.
3 to
om.
ver=
but
vith
fles,
‘mer
Juce
tion,
their
C1e8,
> the
ord a
ting,
8 one
1¢ fe.
their
inged
ieee
d to
ches,
bers,
AS and
ft in
as the
chalk
al ar-
The
> fre.
dows,
The
el and
yan or
ulbous
btained
varmer
d the
5. Of
y eight
old and
Decies §
ENGLAND. 59
{pecies ; and the greater number of thefe are of rare occurrence in a
truly native ftate ; the {pring and autumnal crocus, the fnow-drop, the
fnow-flake, the three kinds of Narciffus (including the daffodil), the
fritillary, tulip, and lilly of the valley, are more familiar to us as garden
Jants, than as nitives of our woods and paftures. The common ones
of this clafs are Ramfons, a {pecies of adic, meadow faffron, and the
beautiful and fragrant hare bell, or wild hyacinth, one of the. principal
ornaments of our groves and thickets, even at a time when they are pro-
fufe of beauties.
Our native fruits belong, for the moft part, to the clafs of Rofaceous
lants; fuch as the wood-ftrawberry, the bullace and black-thorn, the
favethioeny crab, and mountain afh; the common bramble, or black-
berry, the rafpberry, ftone-bramble, and cloud-berry. The cherry, the
medlar, the fervice, and pear trees, whofe fruit, when wild, is of fo
Jittle account, and‘of fuch value when improved by cultivation, belong
alfo to this clafs. ;
One of the largeft of the natural claffes of Englith vegetables is that
of the radiated or compound flowered plants ( fueled about 120 fpe-
cies). It is rather remarkable, that out of fu large a number of plants,
many of which are it abundant and of great fize, only a fingle one,
the Tragopogon porrifolius (falfafy), fhould be applied to the fufte.
nance of man, and not even a fingle one fhould be cultivated for the ufe
of cattle ; more efpecially as the Esduuce virofa (ftrong-f{cented lettuce
is the only fpecies poffefled of deleterious properties. Moft of this clafs
have an ungrateful bitter tafte, and the uccifent ones contain a white
milky juice, of an acrid flavour, Of all our native vegetables they are
the commoneft, thriving by negleé&t, and multiplying under perfecution :
the farmer and gardener are unceafingly employed in their deftruétion,
for they contribute little or nothing to the fupport of man and the lar
beget nor is the beauty of their appearance fuch as to obtain for
them a place in the flower garden. ‘The annual kinds, however, pro-
ducing valt multitudes of feeds, and the perennial ones being furnifhed
with long and deeply ftriking roots, there is no fear of their extermina-
tions they occupy road fides, ditch banks, and all waite places that are
incapable of cultivation, and feem peculiarly devoted to the fuenance
of the granivordus birds by their feeds, and of numerous tribes of ine
fects by their foliage. The fow thiftle, hawk weed, burdock, thiftle,
cud-weed, coltsfoot, groundfel, dandelion, daify, and yarrow, are the
moft commonly occurring genera.
Such of our trees and farubs as have not been already mentioned, may
be confidered as forming a peculiar clafs, and’ one of great importance ;
it is naturally fubdivided into the evergreen and deciduous,
The moft valuable of our native evergreens are the box, the pine, the
yew, and the holly; thofe of fecondary confequence are the juniper and
ivys the {purge laurel; the cranberry ; and thofe extremely ornamental
plants, the Vaccinium vitis idea (red whortle berries) ; and Arbutus
uva urfi (bear-berry ).
The deciduous tihber-trees that are either aboriginal, or at leaft have
been long naturalized to our foil, are the oak, the chefnut, and beech,
' all of which are ma/l-bearing-trees, or produce farinaceous oily nuts, the
favourite food of hogs, and of many graminivorous quadrupeds; the
birch, the alder, the horn beam, the abele, the black poplar, and the
afpen, bearing catkins; the fycamore, the maple, an the ath; the
lime, the elm, and wych hazle. A middle ftation between the timber.
trees and fhrubs is occupied by the hazle, and the nuimcrous f{pecies
of
66 ENGLAND.
of willow. The pulpy fruit bearing fhrubs are the currant and goofe.
berry, the elder, the barberry, the bilberry, the cornel, or dogwood,
the buckthorn, the guelder rofe, and the mezerion; the four firft
are wholefome and grateful to the palate, the reft are either infipid or
noxious, .
‘ The ferns comprife a number of elegant plants that grow in moifl,
fhady, and uncultivated places, the ufes of which have been but little
inquired into; about forty-four {pecies are natiyes of Britain ; the roots
of moft abound in a mild fweetifh mucilage, which in times of {carcity
has been reforted to for nutriment; the larger and commoneft kinds,
fuch as common fern or brakes, are collected and burnt for the potath
which is yielded from their afhes; the Equifetum hyemale (fhave grafs)
is much ufed by turners and cabinet-makers, as a fine file to {mooth their
work with.
The laft clafs of Englifh vegetables that we fhall mention, is that of
the marine Algz, or fea weeds. Between two and three hundred fpe-
cies are found upon our own fhores; the more tender and gelatinous
kinds are eaten either raw or boiled ; and the reft on thofe rocky parts
of the coaft, where they can be collected in great quantities, are burnt
into kelp for the ufe of the foap-boilers and glafs-makers.
Zoo.oGcy.] Mr. Pennant, in his Britifh Zoology, has treated this
fubjeét at due extent, and with his ufual ability. The nature of this work
will only admit of a few imperfect notices. Of quadrupeds, that cele.
brated author enumerates twenty genera, from the horfe down to the
fealand bat. The birds extend to forty-eight, the reptiles to four, and
the fith to forty. genera, befides the cruftaceous and hell fith.
That noble and ufeful animal,, the horfe, is found in England of many
mingled breeds, while moft other kingdoms produce only one kind*. Our
race-horfes defcend from Arabian ftallions, and the genealogy faintly ex.
tends to our hunters. The great ftrength and fize of the En kit draught.
horfes are derived from thofe of Germany, Flanders, and Holftein ; and
other breeds have been fo intermingled, that native horfes may be found
adapted to every purpofe of pomp, pleafure, or utility. Thofe of York.
fhire are particularly celebrated for their {pirit and beauty; and the
grooms of that county are equally noted for their fkill in the manage-
ment of this valuable animal.
The indigenous horned cattle are now only known to exift in Neid.
wood foreft, in Staffordfhire ; and at Chillingham caftle, in Northum.
berland. ‘Phey are long-legged and wild like deer, of a pure white
-colour, with black muzzles, ears, and tails, and a ftripe of the faine
hue along the back. The domefticated breeds of our cattle are almoit
as various as thofe of our horfes; thofe of Wales and Cornwall are fmall,
while the Lincolnthire-kind derive their great fize from thofe of Hol-
ftein. In the North of England we find ee fo called from the dif.
trict of Kyle, in Scotland; in the South we find the elegant breed of
Guernfey, generally of a light brown colour and fmall fize, but re-
markable for the richnefs of their milk. Of late years Mr. Bakewell,
and others, have brought the breeding of cattle and theep to a regular
fyftem, but to the great injury of good beef and mutton.
The number and value of theep in England may be judged from the
ancient ftaple commodity of wool. Of this mo ufeful animal feveral
breeds appear, generally denominated from their particular counties or
diftri&ts; thofe of Herefordthire, Devonthire, and Cotfwold downs, are
_ © Pennant’s Zoology, vol, i. p. 3.
noted
noted for
remarkabl
ham, thou
is beautifu
of the but
while the y
nufactures.
The moi
Agricultur
fleece.
The goat
part, yielde
land, more
are various ;
England ;
brated even
maftiff and
anceftors,
Of our fa
which is. thr
face, colour
from a black
black and wh
The wolf has
The chief.
golden, fomet
Derby thire ;
peregrine falc
An enumeratj
gale, one of ¢]
where to the 1
it travel fo fa
originate * fro
Colchis 3 tur}
Africa, Our
the higheft p
Hi twenty
fouth and eait
wild-duck, wh
bers fent to th
The reptiles
the eg alone
four feet in len
Of fith, the
a and of
fhark a
ie fea fith
cod, plaice, f
mackarel exten(
fined to the Co
trout, which ar;
bers, generally
mon are broug:
rhite
aine
olt
all,
ol-
dife
@ of
t re-
ell,
pular
the
veral
les or
» arg
oted
ENGLAND. 6t
noted for fine fleeces, while the Lincolnfhire and Warwickfhire kind are
remarkable for the quantity. The Teefdale breed of the county of Dur-
ham, though lately neglected, continue to deferve their fame. ‘The wool
is beautiful, but the length of their legs leffens their value in the eyes
of the butcher. The mutton of Wales, on the contrary, is efteemed,
while the wool is coarfe, yet employed in many ufeful and falutary ma-
nufactures.
The moft laudable exertions have lately been made by the Board of
Agriculture, and by individuals, for the improvement of the Englith
fleece.
The goat, an inhabitant of the rocks, has, even in Wales, for the moft
part, yielded to the more ufeful fheep ; that country being, like Scot-
land, more adapted to the woollen manufacture. e breeds of fwine‘
are various and ufeful.
England alfo abounds in breeds of dogs, fome of which were celes
Mere even in Roman times; nor have their modern defcendants, the
maftiff and bull-dog, degenerated from the fpirit and courage of their
anceftors. .
Of our favage animals the moft fierce and deftructive is the wild cat,
which is. three or four times as large as the domettic, with a flat broad
face, colour yellowith white, mixed with deep grey, in ftreaks runnin
from a black lift on the back; hips always black, tail alternate bars o
black and white ; only found in the moft mountainous and woody parts.
The wolf has been long extinét, but the fox abounds.
The chief of our birds of prey are, the great eagle, idly called the
golden, fometimes found on Snowdon; the black eagle has appeared in’
Derbyfhire; the ofprey, or fea eagle, feems extin& in England. The
peregrine falcon breeds in Wales ; and many kinds of hawks in England.
An enumeration of the other birds would be fuperfluous. The nightin-
gale, one of the moft celebrated, is not found in North Wales, nor any
where to the north, except about Doncafter, where it abounds; nor does
it travel fo far welt as Devonthire and Cornwall *. Our poultry feem to
originate from Afia; our peacocks from India; our pheafants from
Colchis; turkies from North America; the guinea-fowl are from
Africa. Our finalleft bird is the zolden-crefted wren, which {ports on
the higheft pine trees; and our largeft the buftard, fome of which
weigh twenty-five pounds, and are found in the open countries of the
fouth and ealt. ‘The moft ufeful of our water-fowl is the mallard, or’
wild-duck, which is chiefly caught in the fens of Lincolnfhire ; the num
bers fent to the capital almoft exceed credibility. .
The reptiles are frogs, toads, feveral kinds of lizards: of our ferpents,
the viper alone is venomous; other kinds are, the fnake, fometimes foun
four feet in length ; and the blind-worm, feldom exceeding eleven inches,
Of fith, the whale but feldom appears near the Englith coafts; the
orpefs, and others of the fame genus, are not uncommon. The bafk-
be fhark appears off the fhores of Wales. Numcrous are our edi.
le fea fith, Some of the moft celebrated are the turbot, dorce, foal,
cod, plaice, {melt, and raullet. ‘The confumption of herrings and
mackarel extends to moft parts of the kingdom ; but pilchards are cone
fined to the Cornifh coafts, Our chief river fith are the falmon and the
trout, which are brought from the northern parts in prodigious num-
bers, generally packed in ice. It is faid that not lefs than 30,000 fal-
mon are brought from one river, the Tweed, to London, in the courfe
@ Lennont's B. Z. i. s60,
: of
62 ENGLAND.
of a feafon. The lamprey is chiefly found in the Severn, the charr in
the lakes of Weftmoreland.
The lobfter is found on moft of the rocky coafts, particularly off Scar.
horoughs but there is a great fupply from the Orkneys, and the
Englifh oyfters maintain their Roman reputation. The green, from Col.
chefter in Effex, and the jyicy white, from Milton in Kent, have the
chief reputation. ;
Minera.ocy.] It feldom or never happens that countries, abundant
in the production of agriculture fhould at the fame time, prefent an
ph mineralogy. Yet England is far from being deficient in this
Fe. ° ‘
The tin mines in Cornwall have been already mentioned ; and they are
not only venerable from their antiquity, but are, it is fuppofed, the richeft
of the kind in the world. That kind of filver termed by mineralogifts
horn ore;‘is alfo found in that diftri& ; but the profound fecrecy obferved
in working it forbids any inveftigation of the amount. The Huel rock
boafts of what is called bell-metal ore; and of wolfram,
Cornwall alfo produces copper at Redruth, Alftone, and the Land’s
End. The fame metal is found in Yorkfhire and Staffordthire ; but no
where in fuch abundance as in the Parrys mountain, in the north-weft of
Anglefea*. Inftead of defcending in veins through various rocky ftrata,
the ufual form of metallic ores, it here forms a prodigious heap, and is
worked in the manner of a quarry. The mountain is almoft bare of
fhrubs or grafs, and is covered with aluminous ftate, under which in grey
chert, is the ore, being chiefly the yellow fulphuret, of very variable
richnefs. ‘This valuable mine was difcovered about thirty years ago.
Lead is found in the Mendip hills, Somerfetfhire ; which alfo produce
calamine and manganefe. The lead mines in Derbythire are well known,
not only for that metal, but for the beautiful veins of fluor which accom.
pany it, and which is manufaétured into feveral ornamental articles. In
eral, the northern central ridge of mountains abounds with lead ore,
The lead mines of Alfton, on the eaftern verge of Cumberland,. employ
about 1100 men.
No metal is fo widely diffufed through the globe as iron ; and England
not only contains excellent mines, but excels all nations in the’ variety of
fabrication. The moft remarkable mines of iron are thofe of Coalbrook.
dale, Shropfhire, Dean foreft in Gloucefterfhire, with fome in the north
of England, particularly near Ulverfton, in Lancafhire.
Among the minor metals, zinc, in the form of lapis calaminaris, and
blende, is found in Derbythire, Denbighfhire, Cornwall, and other re.
gions. Nickel and arfenic fometimes appear in Cornwall ; and recently,
what is called menachanite. But one of the moft important of this kind
is plumbago, or black lead, which is found in the ridge of Borrodale, near
Kefwic, in Cumberland ; the mine is only opened at certain intervals of
time.
Gold has been difcovered in various quarters of England ; but the metal
has never recompenfed the labour and expence. The real gold mines of
England are thofe of coal, found in the central, northern, and weftern
arts, but particularly in the northern, around Newcaftle. The coals of
itehaven and Wigan are more pure; and the cannel coals of Lanca-
fhire are fo beautiful, that they are fufpected by fome to have contti.
tuted the gagates, or jet, which the ancients afcribed to Britain. A
Gngular {peeies of coal is foundin Bovey heath, Devonthire, refembling
@ Aikin’s Wales, 133. is
w
wood im
even in E
Tlie m
pear to hi
the time ¢
periods,
and Midd!
Worcetter
fouth fide
tury. Th
many acre
bed of whi
is about ty
this falt ref
which is a.
brown, in o
in diameter.
294 folid y:
Theannual
tons 3 of w
the Baltic*,
Marbles,
tures, alfo ¢
land; Purbec
in Berk hire
Minera
of various pri
jince the Ro
mentioned th
Buxton and
cefterfhire ha
rate the {pri
leaft, punt, oc
into celebrit
NaTurRAL
Derby thire }
others have Id
not equal in
England, but
Gaverns, as hz
Other rem
mountains,
hire, is Yo 0
moft noted ig
with trees ang
limeftone $ pa
a height of m¢
yards, the b
The lakes c
it would be id
been defcribed
cil of @ Gray,
* Pennant's Ji
Aikin's Mancheft
ENGLAND. 63
wood impregnated with bituminous matter. Turf, or peat, is common,
even in Hamphhire, and other fouthern counties.
Tlie mines of rock falt, in Chefhire, muft not be omitted. ‘They ap-
pear fo have been known to the Romans. Leland has defcribed them in
the time of Henry VIII. 3 nor were they unknown even in the Saxon
periods. ‘Thofe of Northwich are the moft remarkable : at Namptwich
and Middlewich are only falt {fprings : and others occur at Droitwich, in
Worcetterfhire, and Wefton, in Staffordthire. The immenfe mines on the
fouth fide of Northwich were difcovered about the beginning of this cen-
tury. The quarries, with their pillars and cryftal roof, extending over
many acres, prefent a beautiful {pectacle ; the ftratum of falt lies under a
bed of whitifh clay, at the depth of about forty yards. The firft ftratum
is about twenty yards thick, fo folid as to be blafted with gunpowder ;
this falt refembles brown fugarcandy. Next is a bed of hard ftone, under
which is a fecond ftratum of falt, about fix yards thick ; in fome parts
brown, in others as clear as cryftal. The Witton pit is circular, 108 yards
in diameter, the roof fupported by twenty-five pillars, each containing
294 folid yards of rock falt ; the whole covering near two acres of land.
Theannual produce of rock faltat Northwich has been eftimated at 65,000
tons ; of which about two thirds ufed to be exported to Flanders and
the Baltic*. ,
Marbles, and free-ftone, or fine limeftone, of various colours and tex-
tures, alfo occur; the moft celebrated of the latter are thofe of Port-
land; Purbeck, &c. Fine alabafter appears in Derbythire ; fullers-earth
in Berkfhire, and fome other counties.
MINERAL WATERS. ] Noris England lefe pe of mineral waters,
of various properties and defcriptions. Thofeof Bathhavebeen celebrated
jince the Roman times. Next to that place of fafhionable refort may be
mentioned the hot-wells of Briftol, thofe of Tanbridge in Kent, and of
Buxton and Scarborough in the Nosth. Thofe of Cheltenham in Glou-
cefterfhire have been efteemed beneficial in {corbutic cafes ¢ but to enwne-
rate the {prings of inferior note would be infinite, as chalybeat wells, at
leaft, muft occur in almoft every county, and new waters are daily ftarting
into celebrity.
NATURAL cuniosiTirs.] Among the natural curiofities, thofe of
Derbythire have always been efteemed the moft memorable. Hobbes and
others have long fince celebrated the wonders of the Peak, a mountain
not equal in height to thofe of Wales, or the more northern part of
England, but perforated with fuch vertical chafms, and fuch furprifing
caverns, as have defervedly excited admiration.
Other remarkable caverns are found in the northern ridge of Englif_s
mountains, In the vale of Kingfdiile, on the weftern extremity of York.
fhire, is Yordas cave, which prefents a fubterraneous cafcade. But the
moft noted is Wethercot cave, not far from Ingleton. It is furrounded
with trees and fhrubs, is in form like a lozenge, divided by an arch of
limeftone 3 paffing under which you behold a large cafcade, falling from
a height of more than twenty yards ; the length of this cave is about fixty:
yards, the breadth thirty.
The lakes of Cumberland form another grand f{cene of attraction : but
it would be idle to attempt to depiét, in a fe@ words, beauties which have
been defcribed.by fo many authors, and particularly by the glowing pen-
cil of a Gray. Suffice it to obferve, that the three moft celcbrated lakes
* Pennant's Journey from Chefter to London, p, 26. Gough's Camden, ii, 436.
Aikin’s Manchefter, 427.
64 + ENGLAND.
are thofe of Conifton, Windermere, and Derwent. The beauties of the
firft have been compared to the delicate touches of Ciaude ; the noble
fcexes of the fecond, to thofe of Pouffin ; while Derwent has much of the
wildnefs of Salvator Rofa: but moft travellers efteem Ulfwater to be
the moft truly fublinte.
The mountainous regions of Wales may well be fippeted to prefent
many natural curiofities ; and the Parrys mine in Anglefea is in itfelf a
furprifing obje&t. The cataracts in Cumberland are rivalled by a remark.
able fall of the Tees, on the weft of the county of Durham, over which is
a bridge fufpended by chains, feldom paffed but i the adventurous
miners ; nor muft Afgarth force, in Yorkfhire, be paffed in filence.
The fubmarine relics of a foreft, on the coaft of Lincolnfhire, may be
defervedly claffed among the moft remarkable natural curiofities. On the
N. W. fide of the Mendip hills is a confiderable cavern, at the bottom of
a deep ravine, near the little village of Berrington, or Purtingon. Here
are a number of human bones, gradually incorporating with the lime-ftone
rock ; there being a continual drippiry from the roof and fides, which de-
pofits a ftalactitic fediment on thé bones. Several nodules contain perfeg
human fkulls. At the farther end, where the height is about fifteen feet,
there is a large conic ftalactite, which nearly meets a pillar rifing from the
floor. This cave was difcovered in 1796 and as the matter increafes fo
faft, it is conje€tured that it would foon have been clofed up*. Hence
it is probable that thefe- bones are of no remote antiquity, and may
erhaps be the remains of fome wretches who had here taken fhelter
rom the cruelty of Jefferies, after the infurretion of Monmouth,
ENGLISH ISLES.
In the Southern, or Englifh Channel, firft appears the Ifle of Wight,
by the Romans called Veétis, by the Saxons Vihtlond, of an oval form,
about twenty miles in length, and twelve in breadth. This ifle is fertile
and beautiful, and decorated wit many picturefque villas ; the principal
haven is that of Welt Cowes. The chief mineral produéts are pipe clay,
and fine white fand, for the fabrication of pure glafs; and at Alum
Bay, on the north fide of, the Needles, are found confiderable quantities
of native alum +. One of the moft remarkable buildings is Carifbrook
caftle, where Charles I. was imprifoned ; it was built foon after the
conqueft, as appears from the book of Doomfday. The lofty white
rocks ftyled the Needles, feem to have been disjoined from the weftern
extremity of the ifle by the violence of the waves. ‘There were formerly
three ; but about the year 1782, the talleft, which rofe about 120 feet
abeve the low-water mark, was overthrown, and totally difappeared t.
At the diftance of about feventy miles from Wight, to the S. W. arifes
the little ifle of Alderney, off the eT la Hogue ; which is afterwards
followed by the more important ifles of Jerfey and Guernfey ; Sark bein
a fmall ifle interpofed Niemen the two latter. Jerfey, the chief, 1s
about twelve miles in length, and fix in breadth, a well watered and fer-
tile ifland, producing excellent butter and honey. The winters are
milder, but more windy than thofe of England. The northern fide of
the ifland is high, but the fouthern fubfides into pleafant vales, covered
with orchards. The remarkable places are the two towns of St. He-
* Tranfact. of the Linnaan Society, vol, v. { Gough's Camden, i. 143.
¢ Worfley’s Ife of Wight, p. 274.
lier
lier and.S
the caftle
at 20,000
1781, St.
was killed
valour beii
monument
though the
Port St. P
1000 inhak
Returni:
beat by all
overthrown
mafles of {t
alike to def
waves fome
About tl
Scilly, whic
clutter is fa:
innumerable
about five m
600. That
whole inhab
cattle and h
quantities of
On turnin
in the Brifto
with about 5
formerly a n
Some fma
von, fuch as
fea deferves
twenty-five
are Newburg
land, Holyh¢
emphatically,
ductive of ric
the ifland, ne
of the Engli
Edward I,
originally a fi
which pafs d
The laftt EF
miles in lengt
mountain, ca
ble, flate, lim
black cattle,
creafed.” Thi
Ifles of Scot]
an independe:
thofe iflands t
the reign of ]
, *Gu
' + Go
ENGLAND. bs
jier and St. Avbin, both ftanding on a bay, opening to the fouth ; and
the caftle of Mont Orgueil. he inhabitants of Jerfey are computed
at 20,000, of whom 3000 are capable of bearing arms. In January
1781, St. Helier was furprifed by 800 French, under Rullicourt, who
was killed, while Major Pierfon fell on the fide of the i ; his
valour being commemorated by paintings and prints, and by a handfome
monument in the church of St. Helier. Guernfey is a verdant ifle,
though the foil be hilly, and barren of wood. The only town is that of
Port St. Pierre*. Alderney is a {mall ifle, with a town, and about
000 inhabitants in all. Sark has about 300 inhabitantst.
Returning to the Englith fhore, we firft defcry Eddiftone light-houfe,
beat by all the fury of the weitern waves. This edifice has repeatedly been
overthrown ; but the prefent erection, by Mr. Smeaton, compofed of vaft
maffes of {tone, grooved into the rock, and joined with iron, promifes
alike to defy accidental fire, and the violence of the ocean, though the
waves fometimes wafh over the very fummit in one fheet of foam.
About thirty miles to the weft of the Land’s End appear the Ifles of
Scilly, which have been idly deemed the Caffiterides of the ancients. This
clufter is faid to confift of 145 ifles, covered with grafs or mofs, befides
innumerable dreary rocks. Phe largeft ifle is that of St. Mary, which is
about five miles in circuit, and has a caftle and garrifon : inhabitants about
600. That of St. Agnes is rather fertile ; inhabitants about 300. The
whole inhabitants of the Scilly Ifles are computed at about 1000. The
cattle and horfes {mall ; but fheep and rabits thrive well. Confiderable
quantities of kelp are prepared amid thefe rocks }.
On turning to the north, firft appears the little ifle of Lundy, fituated
in the Briftol Channel, about three miles long, but not a mile in breadth,
with about 500 acres of good land, fome rivulets, and a caftle. It was
formerly a noted retreat for pirates,
Some {mall ifles lie off the Welch coaft of Pembrokefhire and Caernar-
von, fuch as Caldy, Skomar, Bardfey, and others : but the ifle of Angle-
{ea deferves more attention, being the Mona of Tacitus. Anglefeais about
twenty-five miles in length, and eighteen in breadth. The chief towns
are Newburgh, Beaumaris, and, on the weftern extremity, fronting Ire-
land, Holyhead. This ifle is fo remarkably fertile, that the Welfh have
emphatically, ftyled it the mother of Wales 3 and of late has been alfo pro-
ductive of rich copper found in the Parrys mountain, in the N. E. part of
the ifland, near Amlwch, of which an account has been given in treating
of the Englifh minerals, Beaumaris is a large town, with a caftle built by
Edward L Newburgh is a corporation of {mallet moment. Holyhead,
originally a fifhing toavn, has become of confequence, by the Irifh packets
which pafs daily, the average time being twelve hours.
The laft Englifh ifle worth mention is that of Man ; it is about thirt
miles in length, and fifteen in its greateft breadth. In the midft is a high
mountain, called Snafel. The chief mineral produétions are black miar-
ble, flate, lime ftone, lead, copper, and iron, an is alfo well ftored with
black cattle, and fheep ; and the po ulation has of late years greatly in-
creafed,” This ifle was feized by the Worvvetins, along with the Weitern
Ifles of Scotland, in the ninth century ; and remained under thefe lords
an ay ie ye kingdom, till the thirteenth century, when it fell with
thofe iflands to Alexander ITI. of Scotland. The Scots were expelled in
the reign of Edward II., but the title continued dubious ; for in he r5th
, © Guernfey is chiefly remarkable for its {mall breed of cattle.
' $ Gough's Camden, iii, 753. J Ibid, iii. 753.
F aud
66 : SCOTLAND.
and 16th centuries, Alexander and John, dukes of Albany, ftyled them.
felves lords of Man, and interwove the arms in their heraldry. In the
reign of Henry IV. the kingdom of Man was conferred on the Stanleys,
afterwards oni of Derby, and latterly paffed to the family of Athol, ty
marriage. This petty fovercignty has been finee purchafed, and annexed
to the En lifh crown. The chief places are Douglas and Caftletown, and
there are fome confiderable villages.
There are alfo fome {mall iflands off the eaftern coaft, as Lindisfarn,
and Coquet ifland, near the mouth- of the river of that name, in Nor-
thumberland. The Ifle of Thanet is now joined to the land of Kent;
but Sheppey remains a pleafant and intereltin y ifle.
eee
SCOTLAND.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. —Extent.—Original Population.—Progrefive Geography. — Hi
torical Epochs.—Antiquities.
COTLAND was firft difcovered to the Romans by Agricola ; and, in the
works of Tacitus, the northern part of Britain is for the firft time dif.
tinguifhed from the fouthern, by the fpecial and repeated appellation of
Caledonia, a name faid-to be derived from a Cymraig word, fignifying
woodlands, foreits, or perhaps rather a mountainous country ; for the
ancients often blended the ideas of foreft and mountain,
The names Caledonia, and Caledonians, continued to be ufed till the
Roman. power expired. Bede, the father of Englifh hiftory, calls the
inhabitants of the country by the name of Piai, which had alfo been
ufed by the later Roman writers as fynonymous with that of Caledonii.
The country he denominates Provincia Pidorum, the province or re.
gion of the Piéti. This new name feems to have been native (Piks, or
ehts) ; and to have originated from a country fo ftyled, in the fouth of
Norway, whence this colony had. arrived. The Saxon writers, and
among them king Alfred, called the people Peohts, and: the country
Pechtlond.
Thefe diftin@ions continued till the eleventh century, when the new
name of Scotia was taken from Ireland, its former obje&, and applied to
modern Scotland.
Exrrnt.] That part of Great Britain called Scotland is about 260
miles in length, by about 160 as its greateft breadth s it extends from
the 55th degree of latitude, to more than 584. The duperficial contents
have been computed at 27,793 fquare miles, a little exceeding that of
Ireland, and confiderably more ian half that of England. The po-
pulation being eftimated at 1,600,000, there will be only fifty-feves
inhabitants for every fquare mile, a proportion of about one-third of that
of Ireland. This defeet of population arifes folely from the mountainous
wature of the country, amounting perhaps to onesdhalfy little fufceptible
of cultivation.
Divisions }
Divis
thirty-th
being fro
Nort
Divit
Midlar
Divitic
Souther
Divifion
Onicina,
the original p
bric Cherfone
Cimbri feem {
donians, or P
generous peop
of the two Fi
were foon exp.
atime to the
rig kin dom
became ubjed
tended their ay
the counties o
hills and, fort
Englith power:
SCOTLAND. 67
Divistons.] The territory of Scotland is unequally divided into
thirty-three counties, which are as follow, the number of inhabitants
being from the enumeration of 1801 :
Orkne _ _ — 46,8
Caithnets — — ~<a pe oa
Northern Sutherland rm — 23,117
Divifion. Rofs — — — 52,291
Cromarty _ — — 3,052
Invernefs — — — 74,292
Argyle —_— —_ — 71,859
Bute _— _ — 11,791
Nairn — — — 8,252
Murray, or Elgin — — 26,705
Banff — —_ — 35,807
Aberdeen — — — 123,082
Midland Mearns, or Kincardine — — 26,349
Divilion. Angus, or Forfar — — 99,127
Perth — — — 126,366
Fife a on — 93743
Kinrofs — — — 6,725
Clackmannan — — 10,858
Stirling —_ — — 50,825
Dumbarton —_ — 20,710
Wett-Lothian, or Linlithgow — 17,844
Mid-Lothian, or Edinburgh — 122,954
Eaft-Lothian, or Haddington — 29,086
Berwick — — — 20,621
Renfrew —_ — — 738,056
Southern Aye oa a aot BiqugoO
Divifion. anon we - mae ae
Lanark —_ _ — 146,6¢
4999
Peebles — —_ — 8,735
Selkirk — _ — 5,070
Roxburgh — — — 33,682
Dumfries _ — — 54,597
Kirkudbright — — 29,211
OricinaL Poputation.] So far as hiftorical refearches can difcover,
the original population of Scotland confifted of Cimbri, from the Cim-
bric Cherfonefe. About two centuries before the Chriftiai zra, the
Cimbri feem to have been driven to the fouth of Scotland by the Cale-
donians, or Piéti, a Gothic colony from Norway. The Cimbri, a con-
generous people with the Welth, continued to hold the country fouth
of the two Firths of Forth and Clyde: but from the former region they
were foon expelled by the Picti, who, in this corner, became fubjeét for
atime to the Anglo-Saxon kings of Bernicia. On the weft, the Cym-
rig kingdom of Strath Clyde continued till the tenth century, when it
became fubjeét to the kings of North Britain, who, at the time, ex-
tended their authority, by the permiffion of the Englith monarchs, over
the counties of Cumberland and Weftmoreland, which abounding with
hills aud, fortreffes. on the fouth and eaft, were little acceflible to the
Englith power ; and while the Danes poffeffed the country to the north
F2 of
68 - s SCOTLAND.
of the Humber, could yield little revenue or fupport to the Anglo.
Saxon monarchs, From the Piéti originates the population of the Low.
lands of Scotland, the Lowlanders having been, in l ages, a diftin@ peo.
ple from thofe of the weftern Highlands; though the Irith clergy endea.
voured to render their language, which was the moft fmooth and culti-
. vated of the two, the polite diale& of the court and fuperior claffes,
About the year of Chrilt 258, the Dalriads of Bede, the Attacotti of
the Roman writers, paffed from Ireland to Argylefhire, and became
the germ of the Scotifh Highlanders, who fpeak the Irifh, or Celtic
language, while the Lowlanders have always ufed the Scandinavian, or
Gothic. °
Proaresstve Geocrapuy.] The progreffiye geography of Scotland
is little opulent in materials. In the fecond century we find a map of
North Britain, by Ptolemy ; but he reprefents the Mull of Galloway as
the moit northern promontory of Scotland, and thence bends the country
due eaft, fo that all his longitudes and latitudes are fictitious*. But his
diftribution of the tribes which then inhabited Scotland, may be regarded
as tolerably exact. In the centre of the country he places a vaft foreft,
which he calls the Sylva Caledonia, chiefly extending over modern Perth.
fhire ; an indication that the colonies had fettled on the fhores, and that
the interior part of the country was little known. The Otadeni were
the people of modern Northumberland and Lothian ; the Selgove extend.
-ed over Dumfriefhire and Kirkudbright, to the bay of Wigton, while the
Novante filled modern Wigtonthire, and extended upwards to Ayre-bay,
The fourth fouthern tribe was that of the Damnii, who pofleffed the cen-
tral region from near the fource of the Clyde, to that of the Erne. On
the north-eaft of the Damnii were the Venicontes, from the Firthof Forth
to the river Dee, while the Texali held the modern fhires of Aberdeen
and Banff. To the weft of them were the Vacomagi, extending from Fort
William to the Caftra Alata, or Invernefs, The other tribes fearcely
deferve enumeration ; the Cornabii poffeffed the moft northern parts of
Scotland, from Dunfby-head to Strathnaver. Four tribes extended along
the north-weft, down to Loch Linny ; to the fouth of which are placed
the Epidii, in Argylefhire, who were divided by Loch Fyn from the Ga-
deni, who held that part to the ealt of Argylefhire called Cowal, in the
county of Dumbarton.
After the time of Ptolemy, little information arifes concerning the geo-
graphy of Scotland, till, after the lapfe of feven or eight centuries, we
find the dawn of the prefent names and divifions. ,In the latter Roman
period, the province of Valentia embraced that part which was fouth of
the Clyde and Forth ; as for a fhort fpace, from about A.D. 140 to 170,
the name of Vefpafiana had been imparted to the region extending from
the Forth to Loch Nefs. The remains of Roman roads from the chief
evidence of the firm pofleffion of the latter province.
In the middle ages, the name of Albany had been applied to that part
of Scotland which lies on the north of the Firths: and about the year
1200 was written the Defcriptio Albaniz. In the fourteenth century,
Fordurn produced a larger and more precife idea of Scottifh geography.
Harding, who wrote his rhyming chronicle in the reign of Edward IV.,
mae a tolerably exact defcription of Scotland, which he had vifited ; and
ome manufcripts of his work contain a rude map of the country. ‘The
firit engraved map is that publifhed by Bifhop Lefley, with his hiftory ;
bd For an ingenious explication of this cefeét, fee M. Goffellin's letter to Mr. Pinker-
ton, in the appendiz to the Reeberches fur les Scythes. Paris, 1804, 8vo.
but
but it abo
The atlas
abilities of
exertions «
have contr
drographic
HIsTor
Cimbri, a1
2. The
flicts with
3. The:
the year 25
greater civil
authentic.
9. Thee
ret, of Nor
event occafic
which was tl
vailed betwe
10. The <
family whicl
tunate princé
II. The ‘
12. The
the Englith {
13. Thec
terlans and iy
Scotland, fo
firt foundatid
ANTIQUIT
early epochs,
epoch, no mo
it is impoflibld
of the Roma
wall, built in
and Clyde, in
found. Arnot
the ftream of (
to have been r|
to the od Te
Thefnol no
of the river Y
SCOTLAND. 69
but it abounds with portentous errors, which have been flowly removed.
The atlas Paar in the laft century does honour to the induftry and
abilities of Pont, and the munificence of Sir John Scott ; and the recent
exertions of Dorrett, Roy, Mackenzie, Huddard, Ainflie, and others,
have contributed to eftablith fome exactnefs in the geographical and hy-
drographical delineation of the country.
HistoricAu Erocus.] 1. The original population of Scotland by the
Cimbri, and by the Picti, forms the firft hiftorical epoch.
2. The entrance of Agricola into Scotland, and the fubfequent con-
fli&s with the Romans, till the latter abandoned Britain.
3. The fettlement of the Dalriads, or Attacotti, in Argylethire, about
the year 258, and their repulfion to Ireland about the middle of the fifth
century.
4e The commencement of what may be called a regular hiftory of
Scotland, from the reign of Druft, A.D. 414...
5. The return of. the Dalriads, A. D. 503, and the fubfequent events
of Dalriadic ftory.
6. The introduction of Chriftianity among the Caledonians, in the
reign of Brudi II. A. D. 565,
7. The union of the Picti and Attacotti, under Kenneth, A. D. 843.
8. The reign of Malcolm III; A.D. 1056; from which period
greater civilization began to take place, and the hiftory becomes more .
authentic.
9. The extinétion of the ancient line of kings, in the perfon of Marga-
ret, of Norway, beach de of Alexander III., A. D. 1290. This
event occafioned the arbitrary interpofition of Edward I. king of England,
which was the fole fource of the enmity which afterwards unhappily pre-
vailed between the kingdoms.
10. The acceffion of the houfe of Stuart to the Scotifh throne; a
family which produced moft ingenious and intelligent, but moft unfor-
tunate princes.
11. The eftablifhment of the Proteftant religion, A. D. 1560.
12. The union of the two crowns, by the acceffion of James VI. to
the Englifh fceptre, A. D. 1603. .
13. The civil wars, and the fubfequent difputes between the Prefby-
terians and independants ; caufes that extinguifhed all found literature in
Scotland, for the {pace of twenty years, A.D. 1640-1660.
14. The revolution of 1688, and the firm eftablifhment of the Prefby-
terian fyftem.
15. ‘The union of the two kingdoms in 1707.
16. The abolition of the hereditary jurifdictions, 1755, which laid the
firt foundation of the fubfequent profperity in Scotland.
ANTIQUITIES, ] The monuments a antiquity belonging to the more
early epochs, may be confidered in the following order. Of the firft
epoch, no monuments can exift, except thofe of the tumular kind; and
it is impoflible to afcertain the period of their formation, |The remains
of the Roman period in North Britain chiefly appear in the celebrated
wall, built in the reign of Antoninus Pius, between the Firths of Forth
and Clyde, in the ruins of which many curious infcriptions have been
found. Another ftriking objet of this epoch, was a {mall edifice on
the ftream of Carron, vulgarly called Arthur’s Oven, which feems rightly
to have been regarded by fome antiquaries, as a fmall temple, dedicated
to the god Terminus,
The inoft northerly Roman camp yet difcovered is that near the fource
of the river Ythan, Aberdeenshire ; the periphery of which is about two
F
3 . Englith
7° SCOTLAND.
Englith miles. A f{maller ftation has alfo been obferved at Old Meldrum,
a few miles to the S. E.
Roman roads have been traced a confiderable way in the eaft of Scot-
land, as far as the county of Angus, affording fome evidence of the ex.
iftence of the province Vefpafiana ; but the chief remains are within the
wall, The fmaller remains of Roman antiquity found in Scotland, as
coins, utenfils, &c. are numerous.
- With the fourth epoch may be faid to commence the Pikifh monuments
of antiquity. The tombs it would be difficult to difcriminate from thofe
of the firft epoch; but as the Caledonian kings, when converted to
Chriftianity, held their chief refidence at iavorneli: the fingular hill in its
' vicinity, prefenting the form of a boat reverfed, may'perhaps be a monu-
ment of regal fculpture. ‘The places of judgment among. the Gothic
nations, or what are now ftyled Druidic temples, dre numerous ; and
there is a remarkable one in the ifle of Lewis. Some of thefe monuments
are of {mall circuit, and fuch are fometimes“found at no great diftance
from each other; as they were not only erected as temples to Odin,
Thor, Freyga, and other Gothic Deities ; but every chief, or lord of a
manor, having jurifdi€tion over many fervants and flaves, fuch {mall
courts became places of neceflary awe.
The houfes feem to have been entirely of wood or turf ; but in fome
{pots fingular excavations are found rudely lined with ftone ; thefe are
called Weems, and it is likely that they were always adjacent to the
wooden refidence of fome chief, and were intended as depofitories of
ftores, &c. the roof being too low foreomfortable places of refuge.
The {tations and camps of the natives are diftinguifhed by their round
form, while thofe of the Romans belong to the-fquare.
Under the next epoch it would be difficult to difcover any genuine.
remains of the Dalriads. The houfes, and even churches, were con-
ftru@ted in wattle-work : and the funeral monuments were cairns, or
heaps of ftones.
To the fixth epoch may probably belong a chapel or two, ftill re.
maining in Scotland; but it is probable that thefe facred edifices in
ftone were foon followed by the ercétion of thofe rude, round piles,
without any cement, called Piks houfes; yet they may more properly
belong to
The feventh epoch, when the Danes may fhare in the honour of the
erection, for fuch edifices have been traced in Scandinavia. They feem
‘to have confitted of a vaft hall, open to the fky in the centre, while the
cavities in the wal! prefent incommodious recefles for beds, &c. Thefe
buildings are remarkable, as difplaying the firft elements of the Gothic
caftle ; and the caftle of Cc ningfburg, in Yorkfhire, forms an eafy tran-
fition, The engraved obcliiks found at Forres, and in other parts of
‘Scotland, have been afcribed to the Danifh ravagers who had not time
for fuch ere&tions. ‘They are probably monuments of fignal events,
raifed by the king or chiefs ; and as fome are found in Scandinavia, as
recent as tlie fifteenth century, it is probable that many of the Scotith
obelifks are far more modern than is generally imagined.
To enumerate the churches and caftles erected fince the reign of Mal.
eolm IT]. would be infinite. Some of the moft fplendid churches derive
their. foundation from David I., in the twelfth century.
' gregation of
Religion.
RE vIGIion.
number of
is called a |
provincial 1
prefbyterie:
which meet
fioner to rey
tor, or pref
To this «
of ruling elc
This court ¢
except-to th
deferve the
peti 3 ar
recently app
John Sine F
the account
As whate
always arife,
of one gener
The feceders
perfecution,
About the
nations, calle
arofe concer
of the royal b
the latter obj
minifters bein
Man ref} 3
church vf En
not numerous
Highlands, t
ported with li
Ecciesias
phy of Scotla
byteries and f
where they a
thoprics, thofe
of Edinburgh
order of antiq
Dunkeld Mord
deen, Rofs, (
SCOTLAND.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Relig ion—LEcclefafical Geography.—Government.——Laws.—-Population.
—Colonies.
INCE the revolution, 1688; the ecclefiaftical government
Reuicion. | of Scotland, has been of the Prefbyterian Pry, The
number of parifhes in Scotland is 941*; contiguous parifhes unite in what
is called a prefbytery, of which denomination there are fixty-nine. The
provincial fynods, amounting to fifteen, are cgmpofed of feveral adjacent
prefbyteries; but the grand ecclefiaftical court is the general aflembly,
which meets every year, in the {pring; the king appointing a commif-
Gioner to reprefent his.perfon, while t".c members nominate their modera-
tor, or prefident.
To this ecclefiaftical council laymen are alfo admitted, under the name
of ruling elders, and conititute about one-third of this venerable body.
This court difcuffes and judges all clerical affairs, and admits of no appeal,
except-to the parament of Great Britain. In general, the Scotifh clergy
deferve the higheft praife, as men of enlightened minds, and moderate
conduét ; and a fingular proof of the diffufion of talents among them has
recently appeared, in the ftatiftical account of Scotland, publithed by Sir
John Sinclair, in twenty-one volumes; for there are few parifhes of which
the account is not ably delineated by the clergyman himfelf. '
As whatever eftablifhment is effected in a free country, oppofition will
always arife, the eftablifhment of the Prefbyterian fyftem was, in the {pace
of one generation, followed by the feceffion, which took place in 1732,
The feceders being the moft rigid in their fentiments, and animated by
perfecution, foon formed a numerous party.
About the year 1747, they were themfelves divided into two denomi-
nations, called the Burgers and the Anti-Burgers, becaufe the divifion
arofe concerning the legality of the oaths taken by the burgeffes of fome
of the royal boroughs ; the former allowing that the oath is proper, while
the latter object ; the former are the more numerous, the number of their
minifters being computed at about 100, and at a medium each has a con-
' gregation of about 1000.
Many refpectable families in Scotland embrace the epifcopal form of the
church of England. The other defcriptions of religious profeffions are
not numerous. ‘There are but few Roman Catholics, even in the remote
Highlands, the fcheme of education being excellent, and generally fup-
ported with liberality.
EccLrsIASTICAL GEOGRAPHY. | To delineate the ecclefiaftical geogra-
phy of Scotland, would be to enumerate its parifhes; nor are the Pref-
byteries and fynods of fuch account as to influence the fate of the towns
where they affemble. The ancient eftablifhment comprifed two archbi-
fhoprics, thofe of St. Andrew’sand Glafgow ; and eleven bifhoprics, (that
of Edinburgh having only been eftablifhed by Charles I.) which, in the
order of antiquity, may be thus enumerated: Galloway (St. Andrew’s)
Dunkeld Moray ; five founded by David I. Brechin, Dirablane, Aber-
deen, Rofs, (Glafgow); that of Argyle, or Lifmore was founded
* Statift. Account.
F4 ahow
72 SCOTLAND.
about the year 1200, becaufe the bifhops of Dunkeld did not fpeak the
Irifh tongue. T'he bifhops of Orkney, and of the weftern iflands, date
from an early period, while their fees were not fubjeét to the Scotith
crown. ;
GoveRNMENT.] The government of Scotland, fince the union, has
‘been blended with that of England. The chief diftin€tion between the
original conftitution of the two countries was, that Scotland had no
houfe of commons, the parliament, confifting of all defcriptions, af.
fembled in one hall. -That enlightened prince, James I., of Scotland,
endeavoured in vain to eftablifh a houfe of commons, in imitation of that
of England, where he was educated. The moit fplendid remainin
feature of government in Scotland is the general aflembly. Next to
which may be claffed the high courts of juttice, efpecially that ftyled
the feffion, confifting of a prefident. and fourteen fenators. The
lords of feffion, as they are ftyled in Scotland, upon their promotion
to office, affume a title, generally from the name of an eftate, by which
they are known and addrefled, as if peers by creation, while they are
only conftituted lords by fuperior intereft or talents. This court is the
laft refort in feveral caufes, and the only appeal is to the parliament of
Great Britain.
It is to be regretted that the caufes are not deterrsined by jury as in
England. »The jutticiary court contifts of five judges, -who are likewife
lords of f{effion: but, with a prefident, ftyled the lord juftice clerk,
as he is only underitood to reprefent the formerly great office of juttice
general, his is the fupreme court in criminal caufes, which are
determined hy the majority of a jury, and not by the unanimity, as in
England. There is alfo a court of Exchequer, confifting of a lord
chief baron, and four barons: and a high court of admiralty, in which
there is only one judge. ‘The keepers of the great and privy feals, and
the lord regifter or keeper of the records, may alfo be mentioned under
this head.
Laws.] The law of Scotland differs effentially from that of Eng.
land, being founded, in a great meafure, upon the civil law. It partly
confifts of ftatute law ; but many of the ancient ftatutes never having
been enforced, the chief rule of this fort arifes from the decifions of the
feffion, which are carefully preferved and publifhed, and afford prece.
dents, generally deemed unexceptionable. Of common law there is
hardly a trace, while the civil and canon laws may be faid to form the
two pillars of Scotifh judicature. ‘The modes of procedure have, how.
ever, the advantage of being free from any of thofe legal fi€tions which
difgrace the laws of fome other countries, ‘The inferior courts are thofe
of the theriffs, magiftrates, and juitices of the peace. Under the heredi-
tary jurifdiétions happily abolifhed, the peers and other great men main-
tained a power almott abfolute, over thcir attendants and followers, fo
that there was no law but the will of the mailer, and the cities alone
could be deemed feats of freedoia.
PopuLation.}] The population of Scotland in 1755, was computed
at 1,265,000; according to the documents furnifhed by Sir J. Sinclair's
ftatiftical account, the numbers in 1798 were 1,526,492 *; and by the
government enumeration in 1801, the inhabitants appeared to amount
to 1,599,068.
The army, navy, revenues, political importance, and relations of
Scotland ave now infeparably intermingled with thofe of England.
* Vol. xx. ps 620,
° CHAP,
Man
ver
nu
Man
of the
marriz
does n
alone ¢
not at
great |
more n
colour
Int
feveral
nating”
gar or
capon |
the hea
diet of
Englan
meal an
form it
twice o
he repir
tipathy
like for
The
Scotifh
at an
on Sund
characte
of life t
of intelli
even the
The h
plan, wh
Even the
few year
neat cott
The d
The gen
peculiar
bonnet j
ufual co
fixteenth
came int
The ar
lih; but
k the
date
cotifh
ny has
on the
id no
8) ale
tland,
of that
aining
ext to
ftyled
The
motion
- which
hey are
-is the
ment of
ry as in
likewife
> clerk,
f juitice
‘ich are
y, asin
t a lord
n which
sals, and
d under
of Eng-
t partly
having
is of the
d prece-
there is
orm the
ve, how-
s which
hre thofe
» heredi-
en main-
bwers, {0
ies alone
mputed
Jinclair’s
by the
amount
htions of
id.
CHAP,
SCOTLAND.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY. ’
Manners and Cuftoms.— Language. — Literature. — Education. — Uni-
verfities.— Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Inland Navigation. —Ma-
nufadures and Commerce.
‘
. HE manners and cuftoms of the Scots
Mayyers AnD Customs. ] begin to be much affimilated with thofe
of the Englifh. In théir religious ceremonies, attending baptifm and
marriages, there are variations a:ifing from the Prefbyterian form which
does not admit of god-fathers or god-mothers, but renders the parents
alone anfwerable for the education of the child. The clergyman does
not attend at funerals, nor is there any religious fervice, but generally
great decency. Among the lower claffes the funerals are generally far
more numeroufly attended than in England ; nor is black an indifpenfable
colour of drefs on fiich occafions, :
In the luxuries of the table the fuperior claffes rival the Englith ;
feveral national difhes, formerly ferved up at the beft tables, and origi-
nating from the French cooking, in the reign of Mary, being now vul-
gar or dee fuch as the haggis, or hachis ; cock a-leekie, or a
capon boiled down with leeks; crapped heads, or haddocks ftewed ;
the heads being ftuffed with a kind of forced-meat balls, &c. &c. The
diet of the lower claffes paffes in a gradual tranfition from the north of
England. The chief food is parich, or thick pottage, formed with oat-
meal and water, and eaten with milk, ale, or butter; ina hard lumpy
form it is called drofe. With this the labourer is generally contented
twice or thrice in theday, with a little bit of meat for Sunday ; nor does
he repine at the bacon of the Englifh poor, there being a theological an-
tipathy to fwine, which alfo extends to eels, on account of their ferpent-
like form.
The fobriety of the lower claffes is in general exemplary; and the
Scotifh manufacturer or labourer, inftead of walting his weekly gains
at an ale-houfe, is ambitious to appear with his family in degent clothes
on Sundays and other holidays. ‘This may be regarded as a ftriking
charaéteriftic of the Scotifh peafantry, who prefer the latling decencies
of life to momentary gratifications. ‘To this praife may be added, that
of intelligence, arifing from the diffufion of education, which is fuch, that
even the miners in the fouth poffefs a circulating library.
The houfes of the opulent have been long erected upon the Englith
plan, which can hardly be exceeded for interior elegance and convenience.
Even the habitations of the poor have been greatly improved within thefe
few years, and inftead of the thatched mud hovel, there often appears the
neat cottage of ftone, covered with tile or flate. A
The drefs of the fuperior claffes is the fame’ with that of the Englifh.
The gentlemen in the Highlands, efpecially in the time of war, ufe the
peculiar drefs of that country. Among the other claflesy the Scotith
bonnet is now rarely perceived, except in the Highlands; it was the
ufual covering for the head all over Europe, till towards the 7 of the
fixteenth century, when the hat, formerly only worn in riding or hunting, ‘
came into general ufe,
The amufements of the rich are on a parallel with thofe of the Eng. -
lih; but thofe of the peafantry have feveral divertities, which the reader,
9
Mays »
74 SCOTLAND.
may, perhaps, beft learn from the poems of Burns. That of curling con.
fifts in rolling large ftones, with iron handles upon the ice, towards a fixed
mark, a favourite and healthy diverfion in the winter. The Englith
quoits are fupplied by penny flanes, round flat ftones, which are toffed
in the fame manner. ‘Two exquifite poems of Mr Burns, his Halloween,
and his Cotter’s Saturday Night, will convey more information concern.
ing the amufements, fuperftitions, and manners, of the Scotith peafantry,
than the moft long and animated detail.
Lanouace.] The Scotifh language falls under two divifions, that
of the Lowlands confilting of the ancient Scandinavian dialeét, blended
with the Anglo-Saxon; and that of the Highlands, which is Irifh. The
Lord’s prayer, in the moft ancient language of the Lowlands, would be
as follows: ‘
1 Uor fader quhilk beeft i Hevin. 2. Hallowit weird thyne nam,
3- Cum thyne kingrik. 4. Be dune thyne wull as isi Hevin fva po
yerd. 3. Uor dailie breid gif us thilk day., 6. And forleit us uor
{kaiths, as we forleit tham quha fkath us. 7. And leed us na intil tem.
tation. 8. Butan fre us fra evil. Amen.
The iflands of Orkney were feized by the Norvegians, in the ninth
century, and the inhabitants retained the Norfe language till recent
times, when they began to {peak remarkably pure Englifh. Chamber,
layne has given the Shord’s prayer in their ancient dialect :
1. Favor irichimre. 2. Helleur ir inam thite. 3. Gilla cofdum
thite cnmma. 4. Veya thine mota vara gort o yurn finna gort i chimrie,
5. Ga vus da on da dalight brow vora. 6. Firgive vus finna vora fin
vee firgive findara mutha vus. 7. Lyv us ye i tuntation, 8. Min
delivera vus fro olt ilt. Amen; or, On fo meteth vera.
In the Erfe, or Irith, of the Highlands, the fame fupplication runs
thus:
A w Athair ata air Neamh, 1. Gu naamhaichear t Tinm. 2,
Tigeadh do Rioghachd. 3. Deanthar do Thoil air an Talamh mar a
nithear air Neamh. 4- Tabhair dhuinn an diu ar n Aran laitheil,
5. Agus maith dhuinn ar Fiacha amhuil mar mhaithmid d’ar luehd fia
chaibh, 6. Agus na leig am buaireadh finn. 7. Ach faor finn o Ole,
Amen.
Literature. ] The literature of Scotland recompenfes for its recent
origin by its rapid progrefs.and extenfive fame. The country that pro,
duced Buchanan in the {fixteenth century, could not, in the 12th, boatt of
one native writer.
Yet, it mutt not be forgotten, that in this dark period, on the facred
ground of Hyona, flourithed feveral refpeétable Irifh writers, who are
alfo clafled among the apoftles of religion and learning in England ;
fuch were Columba, who converted the northern Caledonians, and his
biographers, Cuminius and Adomnan, the latter the friend of Bede.
Among the Strathclyde Welfh may be named Patrick, in his turn the
apoftle of Treland.
One of the earlieft native writers is Thomas of Erceldon, called the
Rimer, who flourifhed about the year 1270, and wrote a metrical
romance, called Sir Triftram. John Barbour, Archdeacon of Aber.
deen, wrote his poem on the actions of Robert I,, in the year 1375,
At the fame time flourifhed John Fordun, the father of Scotith hiftory,
James I. of Scotland, wrote fome excellent poems early in the fifteenth
century ; and he was followed by Holland and Henry the Rimer. In
the end of that century arofe Dunbar, the chief of the ancient Scotith
poets; and, in the beginning of the next, Gawin Douglas we —
infay.
Linf
feven
and f{
licacy
Beatt:
Ru
till Bu
are no
illuftri
The
in Sco
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whil:: \
medica:
negleét
writers
moral f
the Sco
comedy
Eput
laudabk
fyitem
in the ¢
teachers,
mott em:
fuperior
parith p
the rule
{mall fale
dren at a
Highlan
and the {i
Univ
(for an
amount t
Aberdeer
The w
the year
that of E
Highland
yeurg
ftudents,
founded a
and hifter
ufeful pur
The th
Elphi: flor
chara@ter ;
M rhhall, f
man who
Edinburg]
of ity ilhutt
the prefent
CONe
fixed
rglith
toffed
ween,
icern.
antry,
» that
lended
, The
uld be
> nam,
[va po
18 uor
il tem.
e ninth
recent
amber.
cofdum
chimrie,
vora fin
8. Min
on runs
nm. 2,
mar a
laitheil.
uehd fia
no Ole.
s recent
hat pro.
boatt of
e facred
who @re
ngland ;
and his
bf Bede.
turn the
alled the
metrical
f Aber-
r 1375:
hiftory.
fifteenth
er. In
t Scotith
hd David
Linfay.
/
SCOTLAND. "5
Linfay. The Scotifh mufe continued to warble till the middle of the
{eventeenth century, when religious fanaticifm extinguifhed all the arts
and {ciences, but not before Drummond had woven his web of Doric de-
licacye In more modern times the names 6f Thomfon, Blair, Armftrong,
Beattie, Burns, &c. are univerfally known.
Rude chroniclers continued the chain of events, but hiftory was mute
till Buchanan founded his claffical trumpet. Bifhops Lefley and Burnet
are not without their merit ; but why repeat to the echoes of fame the
jlluftrious names of Hume and Robertfon.
The other departments of {cience are of yet more recent cultivation
in Scotland; even theology feems unknown till the beginning of the
fixteenth century; and of medicine there is no trace till the feventeenth ;
whil: we can now boaft of Blair; and Edinburgh ranks among the firft
medical fchools of Europe. Natural philofophy and hittory were totally
negleéted till after the Reftoration’; yet Scotland can now produce able
writers in almoft every branch, and equal progrefs has been made in
moril philofophy. Among the few departments of literature in which
the Scotifh authors have been unfuccefstul, may be named epic poetry,
comedy, and the critical illuftration of the claflics. h:
Epucation.] The mode of education purfued in Scotland is highly
laudable, and to judge from its effeéts is, perhaps, the beft practical
fyitem purfued in any country ir Europe. The plan which is followed
in the cities is seat fimilar to that of England, either by private
teachers, or at large public fchools, of which that of Edinburgh is the
moft eminent, and may be traced from the fixteenth century. But the
fuperior advantage of the Scotifh education confifts in every country
parifh pofleffing a fchoolmaiter, as uniformly as a clergyman; at leaft
the rule is general, and the exceptions rare. The fchoolmafter has a
{mall falary, or rather pittance, which enables him to educate the chil-
dren at a rate eafy and convenient,*even to indigent parents. In the
Highlands the poor children will attend to the flocks in the fummer,
and the fchool in the winter.
Universities. ] The univerfities of Scotland, or rather colleges,
(for an Englifh univerfity includes many colleges and foundations, )
amount to no lefs than four, three on the eaftern coait, St. Andrew’s,
Aberdeen and Edinburgh ; and one on the weftern, that of Glafgow.
The univerfity of St. Andrew’s was founded by Bithop Wardlaw, in
the year 14125 but as it is now of fall importance in the proximity of
that of Edinburgh, it would be a patriotic meafure to transfer it to the
Highlands, "That of Glafgow was founded by Bifhop ‘Turnbull, in the
year§ 1453, and it has produced many illuftrious profeffors and able
ftudents. "he late Mr. Anderfon, profeffor of natural philofophy,
founded an inftitution to promote the knowledge of natural philofophy
and hiftory, and more efpecially the application of thefe {ciences to the
ufeful purpofes of commerce and manufactures*,
The third univerfity, that of Aberdeen, was founded by Bifho
Elphi flone, in the year 1500, and it has always fupported its high
charaéter and intentions, In the year 1593, George Keith, fifth Earl
M rhhall, founded a college at Aberdeen, being the only Scotifh noble-
man who can claim that high honour, The lat, not leat, is that of
Edinburgh, founded by James VI., in 1580; and the bare enumeration
of its illuttrious profeffors and writers would occupy too much {pace for
the prefent plan, The buildings being mean and confined, the founda.
* Garnett’s ‘Tour, ii, 193. ;
t1lOR
76 SCOTLAND.
tion of a new edifice was laid in 1789, and, it is hoped, will foon be
completed on the magnificent plans adjufted by Adams.
Cities AND Towns.] ‘The chief cities and towns in Scotland muft
now be confidered. Edinburgh, the capital, is comparatively of modern
name and note, the earlieft hint that can be applied to it, occurring in
the Cronicon Pidorum, about the year 955, where mention is made of a
town called Eden, as refigned by the Englifh to the Scots, thefi ruled by
Indulf. Holyrood-houfe was the foundation of the firft David.
The population of Edinburgh, including the port of Leith, was,
in 1678, computed at 35,500; in 1755, at 70,4303 and m 1791, at
84,886*.
The whole number of inhabitants in the old and new town of Edin.
burgh, together with the fuburbs, and the fea ports of north and fouth
Leith, were found by aétual enumeration in 1801 to amount to 82,560}.
The arrivals and clearances at Leith harbour, exceed the number of
1700 veffels of various defcriptions. Of thefe 165 belong to the town,
The commerce has been ftated at-half a million annually,
The houfes in the old town of pene are fometimes of remarkable
height, not lefs than thirteen or fourteen floors, a fingularity afcribed to
the with of the ancient inhabitants, of being under the protection of the
caftle. This part of the city ftands on the ridge of a hill, gradually
defcending from the lofty precipice on which the caftle is fituated, toa
bottom, in which ftands the palace of Holyrood-houfe. Adjacent to
this edifice, is a park of confiderable extent, replete with mountainous
{cenery ; for the bafaltic heights of Arthur’s feat, and Salifbury crags,
are within its precingts. ‘The new town of Edinburgh is defervedly ce.
lebrated for regularity and elegance, the houfes being all of free-ftone,
and fome of them ornamented with pillars and pilafters.
There are feveral public edifices in Edinburgh, which would do honour
to any capital ; among fuch may be named the caftle, the palace, the
‘principal church, Heriot’s-hofpital, the regifter office, the new college,
and feveral buildings in the new city}. There is an elegant bridge,
reaching from the hill on which the ancient city ftands, to the elevated
fite of the new town. Another bridge paffes in a line with the former,
towards the fouth, over a {treet called the Cow-gate ; and an artificial
mound extends from the weitern part of the ridge to the oppofite hill,
The environs of Edinburgh: are fingularly pleafing and piéturefque. On
the north is an elevated path, leading to the harbour of Leith; on the
eaft are Muflelburgh and Dalkeith, rural villages, watered by a beautiful
ftream. On the fouth, Pentland hills; and towards the weit, the rivulet
Leith, and banks of romantic variety, '
‘The fecond city in Scotland is Glafgow, of ancient note in ecclefiallic
ftory, but of {mall account in the annals of commerce, till the time of
Cromwell’s ufurpation§. The population of Glafgow, in 1755, was:
computed at 23,546, including the fuburbs; the number in 1791, was
eftimated at 61,045 3 and the smount of the enumeration in 1801, was
779385. The ancient city was rather venerable than beautiful, but recent
improvements have rendered it one of the neatett cities in the empire,
Its weftern fituation expofes it to frequent rains, a difadvantage recom-
penfed by its favourable pofition for commerce with America and the
Welt Indies, [is commerce has arifen to great extent fince the year
» Statift. Account, vi. 664.
4 Abtroét of the an!wers and returns, &e, P, TT,
' Arnot s Edinbureh, Kincaid s Do,
§ Donholin's Glatgow,
r718, 1
tic *,
the tonr
have am
ceed ha
That of
the goo
1,500,0¢
of fimila
reformat
into ruin
environs
Next i
of Dund
toria of t
river Tay
but at pr
fing a mo
the ftaple
are alfo mn
edifices w
recent dat
the hill of
mineral pr
About |
the county
tween two
the eait of
ber 651,
den, the g
is howeve
modious.
tonnage 8,
about 80,0
a confiderd
14,000/ f.
Aberdee
be chiefly
was deftroy
was compu
171597-
boaft a co
goods. In
the foreign
twenty-eig}
tlockin sor t
coarfe linen
etteemed q
The othe
beginning
tified town
The veffels
* Stati. Ag
in
of a
| by
vas,
y'at
din.
outh
Sot.
er of
OW],
cable
d to
f the
ually
toa
nt to
nous
Crags,
y ces
Atone,
jonour
» the
lege,
ridge,
levated
rmer,
tificial
p hill,
~ On
bn the
autiful
rivulet
(
efiallic
me of
Ty was
ly Was
recent
-mpire,
recom-
nd thie
Ae y ear
Ry Was’
SCOTLAND. "7
x718, when the firft fhip that belonged to Glafgow croffed the Atlan.
tic*. ‘The number of fhips belonging to the Clyde, in 1790, was 476,
the tonnage 46,581; but before the American war, it was fuppofed to
have amounted to 60,000 tons. Though the manufatures fcarcely ex-
ceed half a century in antiquity, they are now numerous and important +.
That of cotton in 1791, was computed to employ 15,000 looms ; and
the goods produced, were fuppofed to amount to ‘the yearly value of
1,500,000/. the manufactures of linens, woollens, &c. are far from being
of fimilar confequence. © The ancient cathedral of Glafgow furvived the
reformation, when the other Scotifh edifices of that denomination funk
into ruins. ‘Two convenient bridges are thrown over the Clyde. The
environs of Glafgow prefent little remarkable. ,
Next in eminence are the cities of Perth and Aberdeen, and the town
of Dundee. Perth is an ancient town, fuppofed to have been the Vic-
toria of the Romans. It is pleafantly fituated on the weftern bank of the
river Tay ; and has been known in commerce fince the thirteenth century,
but at prefent the trade is chiefly of the coafting kind, Dundee poffef-
fing a more advantageous fituation for foreign intercourfe. Linen forms
the ftaple manufa@ture, to the annual amount of about 160,000/. There
are alfo manufactures of leather and paper. Perth difplays few public
edifices worth notice. Inhabitants 14,878. There isa noble bridge, of
recent date, over the T'ay, and the environs are interefting, particularly
the hill of Kinnoul, which prefents fingular fcenes, and many curious
mineral productions.
About eighteen miles nearer the mouth of the Tay, ftand Dundee, in
the county of Angus, a neat modern town. The firth of Tay is here be-
tween two and three miles broad ; and there is a good road for fhipping to
the eaft of the town, as far as Broughty-caftle. On the firft of Septem-
ber 651, Dundee was taken by ftorm by General Monk ; and Lumif-
den, the governor, perifhed armadit a torrent of bloodfhed. The population
is however, now equal to 26,084 ; the public edifices are neat and com-
modious. In 1792, the veflels belonging to the port amounted to 116,
tonnage 8,550. The ftaple manufacture is linen, to the annual value of
about 80,000/, canvafs, &c. about 40,c00/, Coloured thread alfo forms
a confiderable article, computed at 33,c00/, and tanned leather at
14,000/ f. ’
Aberdeen firft rifes to notice in the eleventh century, and continued to
be chiefly memorable in ecclefiaftical ftory. In the fourteenth century it
was deftroyed by Edward III. of England. The population in 1795,
was computed at 24,493, but the enumeration in 1801, reduced it to
17,§97- Though the harbour be not remarkably commodious, it can
boaft a confiderable trade, the chief exports being falmon and woollen
goods. In 1795, the Britifh thips entered at the port, were fixty-one,
the foreign five ; and the Britifh, fhips cleared outwards, amounted to
twenty-eight. The chief manufactures are woollen goods, particularly
{tockings, the annual export of which is computed at 123,000/, The
coarfe linen manufacture is not of much account , but the thread is of
efteemed quality.
The other chief towns of Scotland hall only be briefly mentioned,
beginning with the fouth-éait part of the Kingdom. Berwick is a for-
tified town of fome note, and carries on a conliderable trade in falmon,
The veffels built at this port are conftruéted on excellent principles.
® Statift. Ace. v. 498
t lid. so2. $ Stati, Ace, vill, p. 204, &e.
Jedburgh,
98 SCOTLAND.
Jedburgh, on the river Jed, which defcends from-the Cheviot hills, ig
chiefly remarkable for the beautiful ruins of anabbey, founded by David I.
Prefent number of inhabitants 3,834.
Dumfries ftands on a rifing ground, on the eaftera banks of the Nith,
and contains 7,288 inhabitants.
Ayr, the chief town in the 8. W. of Scotland, is fituated on a fandy
plain, on a river of the fame name. The chief trade is ia ee and coals ;
and a few veflels are built. Inhabitants 5,492. Irwin has about 4000,
Lanark ftands in a mott picturefque country, near the celebrated falls
of the Clyde. It was only noted for its academy, under the manage.
ment ‘of Mr. Thomfon, brother-in-law of Thomfon the poet, till the
recent cotton manufacture, and other eretions by the patriotic Mr,
Dale, rendered this town ftill more worthy of attention. Inhabitants
4,692.
Greenock and Port-Glafgow, are confiderable towns, which: have
arifen to celebrity, by fharing in the trade of Glafgow. Greenock con.
tains 17,458 inhabitants; Port-Glafgow about 3,865. Paifley, in the
fame county, is celebrated by its manufacture of muflin, lawns, and
gauzes, to the’ annual amount, it is faid, of 660,o00l. The population
amounts to 31,179. Dumbarton, on the oppofite fhore of the Clyde,
contains about 2,541 fouls, and is alfo fubfervient in the manufaétures of
Glafgow. .
Sterling is rather remarkable for its commanding and truly royal fitu.
ation, than for its induftry. The inhabitants amount to 5,256. Between
Sterling and Edinburgh itands Bonefs, formerly called Borrowttownefs,
in the midit of collierics and falteworks: the harbour is good, and there
are 2,790 inhabitants. .
The county of Fife contains many towns, fome of which were ina
more flourifhing fituation when Scotland carried on a confiderable inter.
courfe with France. Dunfermline is a pleafant town, containing 9,980
inhabitants, and carries on a confiderable manufacture of diapers. ‘There
are ruins of a palace, the royal refidence in the time of Malcolm III,
St. Andrews has about 2,500; it is chiefly remarkable for its ruined
cathedral. .
Forfar, in Angus, contains 5,165 fouls, and the linen manufactures
deferve mention.
Dunkeld is of venerable and pi¢turefque fame, but jts linen manufac.
tures are inconfiderable. Brechin contains 5,466 people: its produéts are
linen, cotton, and tanned leather. Montrofe has a population of 7,974,
anda few manufactures; the buildings are moftly modern and neat,
The county of Mearns prefents no town worth mention, Peterhead,
in Aberdeenshire, contains about 2,000 fouls. It has a mineral fpring,
and carries on fume trade with the Baltic. Trazerburgh, near the pro-
montory of Kinnaird Head, has alfo a tolerable harbour. — Inhabitants
2,215.
Portfoy is a fea port town, peopled with about 2,000 fouls. In the
neighbourhood, are the rocks well known to mineralogilts, containing
elegant granites of different kinds, ferpentines and fteatites, with their
ufual concomitants, afbeftos and amianthus.
Elgin, the capital of the county of Moray, boatts of the remains of an
elegant cathedral, and contains 4,345 inhabitants.
Tnvernefs is an ancient and flourithing town, the capital of the northern
Highlands. The population equals 8,722. The chief manufaétures are
ropes and candles, An academy has lately been founded here on an ex-
ecllent plan.
5 The
The
has onl
coarfe «
{kins.
Tain ha
bifhops
After
coaft ; t
Thur:
tures of
Hence
till we a
houfe of
few {catt
town of |
and a co
of Engle
fhire.
In the
part of th
reneral re
The harb
in front ‘o
the cotton
EpIFIc
dern. TI
is Hopeto:
keith pala
marquis of
Lord Me
Nor mutt
the travelle
feat of Dr
meration o
fhall be me
Kelfo; the
near Hami
The cou
nobility and
feat of the
Caffilis, def
of the earls
vicinity of ¢
villas muft }
can boalt o
markable ed
On _ paffi
relting edifig
Wemyfs, a
houfe of Ki
tains Tullib
that of +h» ¢
Tayiacuth,
8, is
id I.
Nith,
andy
vals 5
L000.
| falls
> and
lation
Clyde,
ires of
il fitu.
tween
wnefs,
1 there
re ina
> interes
»980
There
m ITI,
ruined
actures
anuface
iéts are
79749
At.
erhead,
{pring,
he pro-
abitants
In the
taining
th their
is of an
orthern
ures are
} an CX-
The
The few towns further to the north are of little: account. Port Rofe
has only 800. fouls; but Cromarty has 2,208, a {mall manufacture of
coarfe cloth, and fome coatting trade in corn, thread, yarn, nails, fifh and
{kins. Dingwall contains 1,418 fouls, and a fmall linen manufacture.
Tain has 2,277 inhabitants. Dornoch was once the xefidence of the
bifhops of Caithnefs: population 2,362.
After a dreary interval Wick occurs, the laft town on the eaftern
coaft; the inhabitants, 3,986, chiefly deal in cod and herrings,
Thurfo, on the northern fhore, ansing the Orkneys, has manuface
tures of woollen and linen. Population 3,628.
Hence there is a lamentable void along the weftern half of Scotland,
till we arrive at Inverary, in Argylefhire,-the foundation of the noble
houfe of Argyle, after paffing a {pace of about 160 miles, where only a
few fcattered hamlets can be found. Inverary is a neat and pleafant
town of about 1,000 fouls; there are manufactures of linen and woollen,
and a confiderable iron work. The ore is brought from the weft
of England, and is fmelted with charcoal, from the woods of Argyle-
fhire.
In the fame county is Campbell-town, a‘royal borough, in the fouthern
part of the peninfula of Cantire. The trade is confiderable as it is the
general refort of the fithing veffels ; and the inhabitants amount to 7,093.
The harbour is excellent, in the form of a crefcent, opening to the eait,
in front of the Ifland of Arran. About fifty weavers are employed in
the cotton manufacture*.
EpiFices. ] Scotland abounds with remarkable edifices, ancient and mo-
dern. 'Thofe of the capital have been already mentioned. In its vicinity
is Hopeton-houfe, the fplendid refidence of the earl of Hopeton; Dal-
keith palace, a feat of the duke of Buccleugh ; Newbottel, the feat of the
marquis of Lothian; Melville-caftle, the elegant villa of the Rt. Hon.
Lord Melville ; and the fplendid manfion of the marquis of Abercorn.
Nor muft Pennicuick, the feat of the family of Clerk, be omitted ; but
the traveller of tafte would be more interefted in Hawthornden, the ancient
feat of Drummond the poet. It would be vain to attempt a fimilar enu-
meration of the other counties, and only a few of the moft remarkable
fhall be mentioned; fuch as in the fouth, the duke of Roxburgh’s, near
Kelfo; the Duke of Queenfberry’s at Drumlanrig; and Hamilton-palace
near Hamilton.
The county of Ayr contains many beautiful edifices belonging to the
nobility and gentry, among which may be mentioned Loudon-houfe, the
feat of the earls of Loudon; and Colae-cattle, the feat of the earl of
Caffilis, defigned by Adams, in 1789. Wigtonfhire has Culhorn, the feat
of the earls of Stair and Caitle-Kennedy; Galloway-houfe, &c. In the
vicinity of the flourifhing city of Glafgow, it may be imagined that the
villas muft be numerous and elegant 3 and, even the fmall ifland of Bute
can boalt of Mount Stuart. ‘The caftle of Dumbarton is another re-
markable editice in this region.
On pafling the Forth, the rich county of Fife prefents many inte.
refting edifices, fuch as Leflie-caftle, the feat of the earls of Rothes ;
Wemyfs, and Balcarras, the feats of the earls of thofe titles; the
houfe of Kinrofs, built by Sir William Bruce, &c. &c. Perthfhire con-
tains Tullibardin and Blair, the feats of the Duke of Athol; Dupplin,
that of *h> earl of Kinnoul ; Drummond, the refidence of lord Perth;
Tayszcuth, the f{plendid mantion of the earl of Braidalban; Scone, a
® Sarit, Account, x. 55%,
royal
80 SCOTLAND.
royal palace, &c. &c. In Angus we find Panmure, the ancient refidenca
of the earls of Panmure ; and Glammis, the venerable feat of the earls of
Strathmore. The Shire of Mearns, or Kincardine, contains Dunotter.
Caftle, the elevated manfion of the earls Marfhall, &c. Aberdeenthire
prefents caftle Korbes. In Bamff-fhire we find Cullen-houfe, the intereft.
ing feat of the earl of Finlater ; Duff-houfe, that of the earl of Fife ;
Gordon-cattle, a beautiful manfion of the duke of Gordon ; in the count
of Moray, T'arnaway-caitle, the feat of' the earl of Moray; Invernefs
prefents Fort George, a military erection of fome note, about twelve
miles to the eaft of Invernefs. The line of forts is continued through the
centre of the county, by Fort Auguftus, at the further end of Lochnefs,
and Fort William, at the northern extremity of Loch Linny, at the bot.
tom of the lofty Bennevis.- In the county of Rofs, to the north of Ding.
wall, is Caftle-Leod, a feat of the earls of Cromarty, New Tarbet, and
Balnagowan, command the Frith of Cromarty. At Dornock and Dun.
robin, are feats of the earls of Sutherland. .The fhore of Caithnefs dif.
plays many ancient caitles, but the modern edifices are few 3 the patriotic
Sir John Sinclair has a pleafing refidence near Thurfo ; and in the N.W,
extremity of Scotland, lord Reay has two manfions, one near Tong, and
another at Durnefs, with an extenfive wild of rocks, intercepted with
moraffes, called lord Reay’s foreft. ‘The weitern coafts of Scotland pre.
fent an enormous void, till Inverary, the fplendid manfion of the dukes
of Argyle, rifes like fome oriental vifion in the wildernefs.
In,ranp NAviGATION.] The moft remarkable inland navigation in
Scotland, is the excellent and extenfive canal from the Forth to the Clyde,
commenced in 1768, from a furvey by Smeaton four years before.
“© The dimenfions of this canal, though greatly contracted from the
“© original defign, are much fuperior to any work of the fame nature in
* South Britain*. ‘The Englifh canals are generally from three to five
** feet deep, and from twenty to forty feet wide, and the lock gates from
** ten to twelve feet ; but they anfwer the purpofe of inland carriage
“¢ from one town to another, for which alone they were defigned. The
«< depth of the canal between the Forth and Clyde is feven feet ; its
“¢ breadth at the furface fifty-fix feet; the locks are feventy-five feet
** long, and their gates twenty feet wide. It is raifed from the Carron
‘ © by twenty locks, in a tract of ten miles, to the amazing height of 155
** feet above the medium full fea mark, At the twentieth lock begins
*¢ the canal of partition on the fummit, between the eait and weit feas;
“© which canal of partition continues eighteen miles on a level, termi-
** nating at Hamilton-hill, a mile N. W. of the Clyde, at Glafgow. In
‘© fome places the canal is carried through moffy ground, and in others
“¢ through folid réck. In the fourth mile of the canal there are ten
** locks, and a fine aqueduct bridge, which croffes the great road lead.
* ing from Edinburgh to Glafgow. At Kirkintullock, the canal is
“ carried over the water of Logie, on an aqueduét bridge, the arch of
* which is ninety feet broad. There are in the whole eighteen draw.
“ bridges, and fifteen aqueduct bridges, of confiderable fize, befides
«© {mall ones and tunnels,”
The fupplying the canal with water, was of itfelf a very great work.
One refervoir is above twenty-four feet deep, and covers a furface of fifty
acres, near Kilfyth. Another, about feven miles north of Glafgow, con-
filts of feventy acres, and is banked up at a fluice, twenty-two fect.
* Phillips, 276,
The
The di
paflage, tl
100. Ont
to fea, wh
Clyde, as
precifely t
finifhed.
The ger
fmaller car
in the nattc
has been ef
exports are
The import
rum, fugar,
lawny, gan
foap, iron,
rum and co:
wines from.
carried to a
merchandize
The chief
amount, it is
carpets feem
larly that of
tional advant
Climate and
Rivers.
Mineralo
CLIMATE AN
a country fo
midity as in B
the Atlantic,
with rain, an
the winter is
intenfity of th
great power i
tions chiefly a
differs but fitt
vales of Mora
Face or
mountainous,
lation is of n
But the name
weft of Perth
* In 1793, th
Pp Ixxv. edit, 179
nin
yde,
the
re in
five
rom
lage
The
3 its
feet
Arron
155
FINS
heas 5
rmi-
re In
thers
le ten
lead-
nal 18
ch of
raw.
efides
ork.
} fifty
9 CONs
The
SCOTLAND. 8
The diftance between the Firths of Clyde and Forth, by the neareft
pallages that of the Pentland Firth, is 600 miles, by this canal fcarcely
100. On the 28th of July, 1790, the canal was completely open from fea
to fea, when a hogfhead of the water of Forth was poured into the
Clyde, as a fymbol of their junétion, The length of the canal is
precilely thirty-five miles, and no work of the kind can be more ably
finifhed. '
The general commerce of Scotland, though on a fmaller feale, and with
{maller capitals, is in moft refpects fimilar to that of England, and fhares
in the national profperity. That of the capital, ehtbiigh Leith its port,
has been eftimated, as we have feen, at half a million yearly*. The chief
exports are linen, grain, iron, glafs, lead, woollen ftuffs, foap, &c. &c.
The imports are wines, brandy, and from the Weft Indies aud America,
rum, fugar, rice, indigo. Glafgow exports cottons of all kinds, muflins,
lawny, gauzes, &c. glafs, ftockings, carthen ware, cordage, &c. candles,
foap, iron, leather, &c. &e. The chief imports are tobacco, fugar,
rum and cotton, from the Weft Indies; Irifh beef, butter, and linen ;
wines from Portugal, and other countries. The fifheries of Scotland, if
carvied to a proper extent, would furnifh a very confiderable ftore of
merchandize. .
The chief manufa€tures of Scotland are linen of various kinds, to the
amount, it is faid, of about 750,c00l, annually. Of woollens, the Scotifh
carpets feem to form the chief branch, The iron manufactures, particu.
larly that of Carron, deferve alfo to be enumerated among the chief na-
tional advantages.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY,
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture.
Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains. — Fors/is. — Botany.——Zoology.—
Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters.— Natural Curiofities.
HE climate of Scotland is fuch as miglit
be expected in a latitude fo remote, and
a country fo mountainous. In the eaftern parts, there is not fo much hu-
midity as in England, as the mountains on the weft arreft the vapours from
the Atlantic. On the other hand, the weftern countries are deluged
with rain, an infuperable obftacle to the progrefs of agriculture.. Even
the winter is more diftinguifhabie by the abundance of fnow, than by the
intenfity of the froft ; but in fur.-ner the heat of the fun is refleéted with
great power in the narrow vales between the mountains. Thefe obferva.
tions chiefly apply to the north and weit, In the eaft and fouth the climate
differs but little from that of Yorkfhire ; and corn fometimes ripens in the
vales of Moray, as early a9 in Lothian. :
Face or tHe Country.] - The face of the country is in general
mountainous, to the extent, perhaps, of two thirds; whence the popu-
lation is of neceffity flender, in comparifon with the admeafurement.
But the name of Highlands is more ftri€tly confined to Argylefhire, the
weft of Perthfhire, and of Invernefs; and the entire counties of Rofs,
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ]
* In 1792, the Seotith exports were compnted at 1,024,742]. Chalmer's Eftimate,
p Ixxv. edit. 2794. ‘Ihe thips employed were 2,234, ib.
Suthcrland,
82 SCOTLAND.
Sutherland, and Caithnefs. In proceeding from the fouth-eaft, the en.
trance into the highlands near Dunkeld is very impreffive, there “being 4
coniderable tract of plain, juft before what may be termed the gates of
the mountains. Even the eaftern parts have little of uniform flatnefs,
but are {weetly diverfitied with hill and dale. The rivers in general are
remarkably pure and eee and their courfe rapid. The rich
roughnefs of an Englith profpeét, diverfified with an abundance of wood,
even in the hedge-rows, 1s in Scotland rarely vifible ¢ whence the nudity
of the country makes a {trong impreffion on the ftranger. But the lay.
dable exertions of many of the nobility and gentry, who plant trees by
millions, will foon remove this reproach.
Sor..aAnp AGricuLTURE. } For a minute account of the various foils
that prevail in Scotland, and the different modes of agriculture, the reader
muit be referred’ to the Statiftical Accounts, publifhed by Sir John
Sinclair. The excellence of the Englith agriculture has juftly entitled
it to an imitation almoft univerfal. But this advantage is of recent
date ; and, for a long period of time, Scotland was remarkable for pro.
ducing the beft gardeners and the worft farmers in Europe. .
Rivers.} The three chief rivers of Scotland are the Forth, the
Clyde, andthe Tay. The chief fource of the Forth is from Ben [.
mond, or rather from the two lakes, Con and Ard: the ftream of Goy.
die foon joins it from the lake of Menteith; and the river Teith, fed by
the lakes Ketterin, Lubnaig, and others, {wells the Forth to a noble
ftream, about four miles above Stirling.
The Clyde is faid to iffue from a hillin the S. E. corner of Tweedale,
called Arrick Stane, which is undoubtedly the chief fource of the
Tweed, and one fource of the Annan; but the Clyde has a more re.
mote fource in Kirfhop, or Dair water, rifing about fix miles further
to the fouth, in the very extremity of Lanarkfhire ; and the true fource
of the Annan feems to be Loch Skeen, in the county of Selkirk. How.
ever this be, the Clyde pafles through Crauford Moor, pean the range
‘of Leadhills on the left, and winding under the Jofty hill of Tinto, near
Symington,. purfues a northerly courfe, till about two miles to the fouth
of Carnwaith, when it refumes its chief wefterly dire@tion,
The principal fource of the Tay is the lake of the fame name, or the
river may be traced to the more wefterly fources of the Attrick and the
Dochart, and the fmaller ftream of Lochy ; which fall into the weftern
extremity of Loch Tay. Soon after this noble river iffues from the
lake, it 1s joined by the river Lyon; and, at no great interval, by the
united ftreams of the Tarf, the Garry, and the Tumel, the lait, a rapid
and romantic river. ‘The ftreams of Ericl:t and Hay {well the Tay, about
nine miles to the north of Perth; afte: pafling which city, it receives the
venerable ftream of the Ern, and Seen into a wide eftuary.
Next in confequence and in fame is the Tweed, a beautiful and paf.
toral ftream, which, receiving the Teviot from the fouth, near Kelfo,
falls into the fea at Berwick.
The Scottifh Tyne is an inconfiderable river, which runs by Had.
dington.
In the fouth weft, the Annan contributes largely to the Firth of Sol. |
way, but no town worth mentioning adorns its banks. Dumfries ftands
upon the Nith, a river of longer courfe than the Annan, and marked as
its eftuary by the ruins of Caerlavroc caftle, an important fortrefs in
ancient'times. ‘The river Ore, and that recently ftyled Kirkudbright,
anciently and properly called the Ken (whence is derived the title of
Kenmure), avd the Fleet, are furpaffed by the river Cree or Crief ; which
formerly
former!;
noted b:
The 1
are of in
To th
watering
meets the
To the
Montrofe
In the
the Dee :
of Scairf
Don runs
two miles
old orthog
A few 1
German o
which fom«
guence in
The folle
joins the feg
a {mall lake
‘Corriarok,
mountainou:
ealt, being,
in Scotland,
The wate
remains of |
and Shakefp
The Nefs,
form the larg
formed by th
The eftua
Shin, by the
The other
{mall confequ
chief. In th
and the Dur:
montory of C
On the we
fect is compe
moft confider.
which forms
bay of Dorno
to which eve
Gare, the To
Shire exhibits
and the Linn
fingular cata
attracts obfer
Loch Fyne,
Clyde,
_ Lakes.J A
is that of Lo
thores of the g
ets
Ed
8 Of
refs,
| are
rich
ood,
dity
lau-
s by
foils
eader
John
titled
ecent
pro.
1, the
n Lo.
Gou-
fed by
noble
eedale,
of the
ore re.
further
fource
How.
range
0, Near
he fouth
or the
and the
wettern
om the
by the
a rapid
» about
ives the
hnd paf-
Kelfo,
y Had.
hs ftands
{ rked ag
trefs in
bright,
title of
5 which
ormerly
of Sol- |
SCOTLAND. 83
formerly fplit Galloway into two divifions, and which opens into the
“noted bay of Wigton.
The rivers of Ayrfhire, flowing itito the grand eftuary of the Clyde,
are of inconfiderable fize. ,
To the north of the eftuary of Forth occurs the Eden, which, after
watering the royal park of Falkland, and Coupar the county town,
meets the ocean, about two miles to the north of St. Andrews.
To the north’of Tay are the South Efk, which paffes by Brechin and
Montrofe; and the North Efk, a lefs confiderable {tream.
In the county of Kincardine there is no river of confequence. But
the Dee is a confiderable and placid ftream, iffuing from the mountains
of Scairfoch, and purfuing a due eafterly courfe to Aberdeen. The
Don runs almoft parallel, a few miles to the north, joining the fea about
two miles from Aberdeen, after pafling Old Aberdeen, or rather, in the
old orthography, Aberdon.
A few miles to the north of the Don, the river Ythan falls into the
German ocean, a {tream formerly celebrated for its pearl fifheries, of
which fome relics remain. The Uggie is the laft ftream of any confe-
quence in Aberdeenthire.
The following rivers direct their courfe to the north. The Devon
joins the fea at Banff. ‘The Spey is a grand impetuous river, rifing from
a fmall lake, called Loch Spey, in the vicinity of the high mountain of
Corriarok, neat Fort Auguftus, whence it rolls to the Buth-catt, amid
mountainous wilds, till it fuddenly turns to its fixed dire€tion, the north-
ealt, being, perhaps, upon the whole, the moft confiderable Alpine river
in Scotland.
The water of Loffie is only remarkable as it wafhes the venerable
remains of Elgin; but Findorn, which runs by the Forres of Macbeth
and Shakefpeare, is a confiderable torrent.
The Nefs, iffuing from the lake fo called, and the Beuly, confpire to
form the i eftuaty, ‘called Murray Firth:;. while that of Cromarty is
formed by the Grady, the Conon, and other ftreams.
The eftuary of Dornoch is formed by a river which iffues from Loch
Shin, by the Caran, and by the intermediate ftream, called Okel.
The other ftreams in the furtheft north of Scotland are unhappily of
fmall confequence. ‘The water of Thurfo, and that of Naver, are the
chief. In the north-weft extremity are the Strathmore, the Strathbeg,
and the Durnefs, which enter the fea to the eaft of the {tupendous pro-
montory of Cape Wharf, now modernized Wrath.
On the wett of Scotland there is no tiver of any moment, but the de-
fect is compenfated by numerous lakes, or rather creeks, of which the
moft confiderable are Laxford, Calva, Ennard, and that of Broome,
which forms a noble bay, ftudded with iflands, nearly parallel with the
bay of Dornoch. On its fhore is the projected fettlement of Ullapool,
to which every patriot muft with fuccefa Next are the En and the
Gare, the Torridon, the Keffern, and others of {maller note. Argyle-
fhire exhibits the Sunart, a long inlet, which terminates at Strontian ;
and the Linny, extending to Fort William. The Etif is impeded by a
fingular cataract, at its entrance into the fea. The fmall inlet of Crinan
attracts obfervation, by the promifed canal; and the lift is clofed by
Loch Fyne, and Loch Long, forming vaft inlets from the eftuary of
Clyde.
Lakes.] Among the lakes of Scotland, the chief in extent and beauty
is that of Lomond, ftudded with romantic iflands, and adorned with
thores of the greateft diverfity. The ifles are fuppofed to form part of
G2
the
84. SCOTLAND.
the Gsampian chain, which here terminates on the weft. The depth of
this lake in the fouth is not above twenty fathoms; but:the northern
creek, near the bottom of Ben Lomond, is from fixty, to eighty
fathoms.
On the eat of Lomond is an affemblage’of curious lakes, the Ket.
terin, or Cathin, the Con, or Chroin, the Ard, the Achray, or Ach.
vary, the Vanachor, the Lubnaig ; exhibiting fingular and picturefque
{cenes, called by the Highlanders the Zvo/uchs, a word fignifying rough,
or uneven grounds*, This denomination is itri€tly appisanie to the fur.
rounding hills and rocks of diftorted forms, as if fome convulfion had
taken place, but often covered with heath, and ornamented, even to the
fummits, with the weeping birch, The hills are of argillaceous {chiftus
_ in other words, in {trata of coarfe flate, moflly vertical, and interfperfed
with veins of quartz. Ketterin, or Cathein, is a lake of confidcrable
extent and beauty, with fome rocky ifles, and crowned by the moup.
tain of Ben Veney: the fith are trout and char. Vanachor has falmon
and trout; but Achray only pike. oe
In the vicinity is the lake of Menteith, a beautiful {mall lake, about
five miles in circumference, with two woody ifles, one prefenting the
ruins of a monattery, the other thofe of a caftle of the old Earls of
Menteith.
Having thus briefly defcribed the principal lake and fome others in its
vicinity, it may be proper to obferve, before proceeding to others ina
more northerly fituation, that the §. W. region of Scotland, anciently
called Galloway, contain feveral picturefque lakes (which in Great Bri.
tain and Ireland feem always to accompany groups of mountains),
though not of equal extent and celebrity with thofe of the north. The
moit confiderable is the lake of Ken, in the coupty of Kirkudbright,
on which ftands a village, called New Galloway. This lake is decorated
with three {mall ifles. Next is that of Crey, on the borders of Wig.
tonfhire. In the county of Ayr, there is a fmall lake, called Loch
Dolen.
Returning towards the north, Loch Leven, in Fifefhire, attracts ob.
fervation from its hiftorical fame. The lakes in the fouth of Perththire
have been already mentioned, and to the eaft muft be added Loch Em,
Loch Tay, and thofe of Rannoch, Lydoch, and Erycht. That of
Tay, in particular, is a grand and beautiful expanfe of water, of fuch
length, as rather to refemble a noble river; and at its caftern extre.
mity are placed the capital manfion and plantations of the Earl of
Braidalbir.
Loch Nefs rivals Loch Tay in extent and reputation. The depth is
from fixty to 135 fathoms, the fith excellent trout+. Its great depth
is the caufe why it never freezes. It is remarkable that the bed of this
lake, and in general of the watery chain which extends to Loch Linney,
is filled with pudding-itone, hills of which occur near Dunolla and Duy.
ftaffnage, on the weitern fhores of Argyle. 'T'he counties of Suther.
land and Caithnefs coutain many {mall lakes. The chief are Loch Loil,
which fends a ftream into the bay of Far; and’ Loch Shin, a confider-
able lake, tweaty miles in length, but on account of its windings the cye
can oniy comnyand a few miles at atime. Trom its fouth-eaft extremity
aMnes the river Shin, jn two broad cafcades, :
In the weitern divition of Scotland Loch Awe, in Argylefhire, is the
soit contiderable lake g at ig about thirty miles in length, and from one
* Garnet's Tour, it 173 + Pennant’s Tour.
totwo in)
which bea:
fortrefs, tl
of Argyle.
northern er
But the
mountains,
fouth-weft,
femblage o
bay of Gle:
N. E. direé
Other ridge
cording tot
is Cruffel, a
General Roy
tains of Ga
N. E. é
But the ¢
ridge in its
Elvan convey
faid to have
The chicf fur
accounts, is :
To the eaft 4
St. Abb’s H.
are rather pi
fummits, in th
The Lead-hil,
nite abounds ji
portion feems
pthers coveres
rocks, feem
port vaft maffe
fhore of the F
On paffing
able fe ther
Onthe north
fummit 5 whe
opens the patl
from the lofty
of beautiful re
leatites,~and
itrmay be obfe
and Leven, ¢:
fuperincumben
The Gram
extending fron
boundary of tl
ealt of that ch
and advantage
dual, the firtk ¢
key-hills on the
welt, To the
Ledy (300.
(4015); Shihg
out
the
3 of
n its
ina
ently
Bri-
ins),
The
right,
rated
Wig-
Loch
3 ob-
hthire
Er,
at of
fuch
extre-
rl of
ppth is
depth
of this
,inney,
h Dun-
uther-
hh J.oil,
nfider-
the eye
remuly
> is the
om one
t?
SCOTLAND. $5
totwo in breadth; andis ftudded with many {mall, woody ifles, one of
which bears the ruins of a monattery, and another thofe‘of an ancient
fortrefs, the refidence of the Campbells of Lochawe, afterwards Dukes
of Argyle. This lake ie itfelf, by a confiderable ftream, near its
northern end, into the creek called Loch Etif.
But the chief diftin&tive feature of Scotland confifts in its numerous
mountains, which interfeét-the country in various directions. In the
fouth-weft, the ancient province of Galloway prefents an extenrfiye af-
femblage of hills, which feldom defcribe any uniform chain, from the
bay of Glenluce, which extends towards Loch Ryan, and thence in a
N.E. diretion to Loch Doon, the fource of the river of the fame name.
Other ridges run in various dirc&tions, generally north and fouth, ac-
cording to the courfe of the rivers, till we arrive at the Nith, near which
is Cruffel, a detached fummit of confiderable height. According to
General Roy, than whom there cannot be a better authority, the moun-
tains of Galloway form a connected chain with thofe of Cheviot on the
But the chief elevation of this part of Scotland is that metaliferous
ridge in its very centre, called the Lead Hills. ‘The {mall ftream of
Elvan conveys particles of gold to the Clyde, and German miners are
faid to have discovered confiderable quantitics of that precious metal,
The chief fummnit of this ridge is Hartfell, which, according to fome
accounts, is 3300 feet above the level of the fea; but by others 2582.
To the eaft we find the uniform ridge of Lamermoor, terminating in
St. Abb’s Head. The hills of Pentland, on the fouth of Edinburgh,
are rather picturefque than important. Berwick Law, and the romantic
fummits, in the vicinity of Edinburgh, clofe the lift of the fouthern hills,
The Lead-hills chiefly confift of argillaceous {chiitus ; but the grey gra-
nite abounds in the mountains of Galloway. In all, however, the chief
portion feems to be calcareous ; the fummits-are round, fome verdant,
pthers covered with heath. The red granite, and other grand Alpine
rocks, feem here unknown. In the Lothians the calcareous ftrata fup-
port vaft maffes of whin, trap, and bafalt, which extend to the northern
{hore of the Firth of Forth. R
On paffing the Forth appears the range of Ochill-hills, more remark-
able for their fingular agates and calcedonies, than for their height,
Onthe north-eait of Aberdeenthire is Mormond, a remarkabie folitary
{ummit ; whence no mountains of note occur till Invernefs, on the wett,
opens the path to the Highlands. Yet it muft not be forgotten, that
from the lofty promontory of Trouphead to Portfoy, extend vatt matfes
of beautiful red granite, interfperfed with fchorl; and of ferpentine with
teatites,-and other valuable ftones. Before leaving the Lowland hills,
it'may be obferved, that the’ {mall ridge in Fifefhire, between the Eden
and Leven, called Laman hills, confilts mottly of hard free-itone, with
fuperincumbent ftrata of whin and bafalt. .
The Grampian hills may be confidered as a grand frontier chain,
extending from Loch Lomond to Stonehaven, and forming the fouthern
boundary of the Highlands, though four or five counties on the north.
eat of that chain have, in their eaftern and northern perts, the name
and advantage of Lowlands. The tranfition to the Grampian is gra-
dual, the firft chain, according to General Roy, ¢conitifting of the sad-
ky-hills on the ealt, the Ochils in the middle, ang Campty-hills ou the
welt, To the Grampian chain belongs Ben Lomond ( 3262); Ken
Ledy (3009); Ben More (3903); Hen Lawres, the chief fummit
(4015) 3 Shihallion (3564); Ben Yorlich (3300); and other lefs im.
G3 portant
86 SCOTLAND.
portant elevations on the eaft. Mount Battock, in Kincardinfhire, ig
3465 feet. Ben Cruachan, in Argylefhire, is a folitary mountain, 3300
tcet above the fea.
Ben Nevis is the higheft mountain in Great Britain, being eftimated
at 4350 feet above the level of the fea, not much above a quarter of
the height of Mont Blanc. This mountain has not hitherto been ex.
plored by any mineralogitt. On the N. EK. fide it prefents a precipice,
nearly perpendicular, and of prodigious height, by fome accounts 1 500
feet. The view from the fummit is grand*, exhibiting moft of ‘the
weftern Highlands, from the paps of Jura, to the hills of Cullen, in
Skey ; on the eaft it extends to Ben Lawres, in Perthfhire, and the
river Nefs ; extent of view about eighty miles. The fuperior half of the
mountain is almoft deititute of vegetation.
Tt would be difficult to divide the remaining mountains of the High.
lands into diftin@ lines or groups; they fhall, therefore, be briefly
mentioned in the order of proximity. To the N.W, of Ben Nevis js
the long mountain of Corriarok, near Fort Auguitus, over which a
military road has been directed in a zig-zag direction. From the foot
of this mountain arifes the rapid river Spey ; and other ftreams run to
the weit, circumttances which indicate great elevation. About thirty
miles to the eaft rifes the mountain Cairngorm (4060 feet) or the blue
mountain, clothed with almoft perpetual fnow, and remarkable for quartz
of different colours, chiefly the fmoaky kind, well known to lapidaries,
The other chief mountains in this region are thofe of Braemar, or Scair.
foch, at the fource of the Dee ; Ben Awn, and many of f{maller height,
fuch as Benibourd}, Benachie, &c,
In the fecond divifion of the Highlands, which lies beyond Loch Linny
and Loch Nefs, the mountains are yet more numerous, but not fo me.
morable, The weftern fhore, in particular, is crowded with hills, from
the ifland of Skey to cape Wrath, while a branch fpreading eattward
towards Ord-head (1250 feet) forms, what are termed by feamen, the
Paps of Caithnefs (1929 feet). ‘The chief mountains on the weit of
Rofsthire are, Ben Chafker, on the fouth of Loch Broom; and Ben
Wevis (3720 fect).
On proceeding to the mof northern parts of Scotland, the counties
of Sutherland and Caithnefs, firft occurs Ben Ormoid ; then extends the
chain called the Paps, confilting of the mountains Morben, Scuraben,
&c. from which ran in a northerly direction, according to the courfe of
the rivers, inferior chains. The N. W. extremity of Scotland prefents
fome pleafant vales towards the fea, and inland that of Dornadilla,
and an elevated plain on the weit of Loch Loial, called Dirrymore
forett {: further to the weft no names ocour except that of Cape Wrath,
and the region is defcribed by an intelligent traveller in the following
terms |] :
© But a wide extent of defert country lay before us, and exhibited
“a molt augult picture of forlorn nature. The profpect was alto-
«* gether immenfe, but wild and defolate beyond conception, The
** mountains prefented nothing to view but heath and rock ; between
* them formlefs lakes and pools, dark with the fhades thrown from
* Statift. Acc. vill, 414. ;
t Always covered with fnow, and, perhaps, as Mr. Aikin conceives, higher than
Cairngorm. At about the height of 4000 feet, fnaw remains all the year in Scot-
land,
t Cord.ner’s Letter to Pennant, p. 111,
| Ibid, 104,
prodigioug
se pro
© gloc
Hav
the Sec
of the
{tituent
lands, |
taining
immedia
penetrat
the Tay
vale is of
whole fur
granite.
with a fey
blueifh gr
ftone is m
fchiftus, 3
lead. Th
over{pread
contains
chiefly exh
lime-{tone.
Such are
wards Ben -
1s chiefly of
Cantire, J
which chief]
of which fir
courfe of pug
talus in the 1
that the coaf
inthe form ¢
pebbles of re
Mount Scur;
and other mo
of the fame
and micaceou
The centrd
been explored
primitive lime
{chiltus, but
of white qua
is bett adapte
Upon the y
the Scotith md
Nevis to Port
uual, but the
and fand.ftone
Cairngorm, ar
Grampians, w
toa German ni
* Mr, 4
ted
of
eX
ice,
500
the
in
the
the
igh.
‘iefly
Vis iS
ich a
foot
un to
thirty
> blue
juartz
jaries.
Scair-
eight,
Linny
fo me-
, from
{tward
en, the
welt of
d Ben
lounties
nds the
iraben,
urfe of
brefents
nadilla,
rymore
V rath,
lowing
hibited
AS alto-
» The
yetween
m from
her than
in Scot-
digioua
SCOTLAND. 87
«¢ prodigious precipices, gave grandeur to the wildernefs in its moft
«¢ gloomy forms.”
Having thus explained, at fome length, the direétions and pofitions of
the Scotifh mountains, becaufe they conftitute the moft remarkable feature
of the country, and yet have never received due illuftration, their con-
ftituent parts remain to be briefly examined *. On entering the High-
Jands, near Dunkeld, the firft ridges are alluvial hills of gravel, con-
taining pebbles of micaceous fchiftus, quartz, and granite. The rocks
immediately to the north of Dunkeld are compofed of micaceous fchiftus,
enetrated in every direction by veins of quartz. From the junétion of
the Tay and Tumel, weftward to Loch Tay, the northern bound of the
vale is of the fame fubftances, fometimes interfperfed with garnets. The
whole fummit of the higher chain is covered with large round maffes of
granite. The fouthern avei of Loch Tay contift of micaceous fchiftus,
with a few garnets, interrupted about the middle with banks of compaét
blucifh grey lime-ftone. The northern fhores are fimilar, but the lime-
ftone is micaccous, The mountains in Glenlochy are moftly of micaceous
fchiltus, interfperfed with garnet ; Glen Lyon prefents fmall veins of
lead. ‘T'he vale of T'umel, between Loch Tumel and Loch Rannoch, is
overfpread with rounded fragments of granite and micaceous fchiftus, but
contains granitoid, and fome granite. The lower part of Glen Tilt
chiefly exhibits micaceous {chiftus ; the upper, principally granite and
lime-ftone. .
Such are the moft fouthern parts of the Highlands. In the weft, to-
wards Ben Lomond, micaceous f{chiftus alfo abounds; but that mountain
is chiefly of gneifs, and the like-features are found in the peninfula of
Cantire. In the north of Argylefhire appears the beautiful red granite,
which chiefly conftitutes the central chain, already indicated; to the north
of which firft appears mieaceous fchiftus, and afterwards a remarkable
courfe of pudding-ftone, extending from Loch Nefs to Oban. The moun.
taius in the north have been little explored; but Mr. Jamefon tells us,
that the coatt is chiefly a coarfe argillaceous fand-ftone, often appearing
inthe form of flags, while in fome places are mafles of breccia, being
pebbles of red granite, micaceous fchiftus and quartz, in arenacous bafes,
Mount Scuraben is fand-ftone, with a fummit of white quartz. Morben,
and other mountains in this diftriét, from their white colour, feem to be
of the fame compofition, About the Ord of Caithnefs appear granite
and micaceous fchittus,
The central and weftern parts of Sutherland and Rofsthire have not
been explored ; but it would feem that the weit of Sutherland is chiefly
primitive lime-ftone, ‘The mountains feem to be of granite and micaceous
fchiftus, but often prefent the fingular feature of yaft fummits formed
of white quartz. Near Loch Broom is found that fort of granite which
is beft adapted for mill-ftones,
Upon the whole it would appear, that the chief, or granitic chain of
the Scotifh mountains, extends ina S, W. and N, E. direétion, from Ben
Nevis to Portfoy, In many parts it has funk or fubfided, as is not un-
ufualy but the line is marked by the gradual tranfitions from lime-ftone
and fand-ftone to micaceous fchiftus, and thence to granite. Ben Nevis,
Cairngorm, and other lofty fummits, mark this primitive chain. The
Grampians, which form the outer {kirt of-this chain, confift, according
toa German mineralogift+, of micaceous lime-flone, gneifs, porphyry,
# Mr. Aikin's Notes. ~ + Kirwan’s Geol. Effays, 48x,
G 4
fate,
SCOTLAND.
88
flate, and granite, alternating with each other: and another German fays,
that the frndamental rock of the country confifts of granitic aggregates,
The mountains ia the S. W. are chiefly {chiftoic, and the granite is grey,
and of an inferior kind; but Mr. Williams informs us, that Ben Nevis,
and other mountains in that quarter, are compofed of elegant red granite,
in which the pale rofe, the bluth, and the yellowith colours, are finely
mixed and fhaded *, The like granite is found at Portfoy and Troup.
head, and is probably continued through the whole chain, the fuperior
height of the region being marked by the extreme rapidity of the river
Spey. This tendency of the leading chain is not only marked out by the
Grampians, but by that of the iflunds, and of the grand chain in Norway,
which, indeed, feems a continuation of the Scotith chain ; and the lait,
probably, contains filver aswell as the Scandinavian, The mountains on
the N.W. of the lakes Nefs and Linny, are probably only exterior {kirts
of the fame chain, and prefeat the ufual declenfion of micaccous {chittys,
terminating in lime-ftone and fand-itone, in the northern parts of Suther.
land and Caithnefs. The iflands of Shetland chiefly prefent micaceous
{chiftus, interfperfed with a few mafles of granite; andthe Orkneys, &c,
confilt moftly of fand-ftone. The weftern iflands may be fuppofed to be
chiefly calcareous, It is remarkable that the fpace from Invernefs to
Dunolla, on the weft, abounds with pudding-itone, compofed of pebbles
of quartz, probably wafhed down from the granitic chain, and afterwards
cemented by fome unknown proce& of nature, either by iron or filiceoug
earth,
General Roy mentions two remarkable features of the Highlands: firft,
the moor of Rannoch, a high defert of twenty miles fquare, on the S.E,
of Ben Nevis, a flat uninhabited morafs. The fecond is part of the N.W,
coaft extending from Loch Inchard, twentysfour miles to the fouth,
breadth about ten miles, which prefents a moft fingular appearance, as if
mountains had been broken into fragments, inter{perfed with pools of
water.
Forests. ] The forefts of Scotland are very rare, in the proper accepta.
tion of the term; and the Sylva Caledonia has long fince vanifhed. The
whole county of S kirk was formerly denominated Ettric foreft. There
was alfo a coufiderable forett, that of Mar, in the weit of Aberdeenhhire,
where now » -nains the forelt of Abernethy}, extending to Cairngorm. In
the county of Sutherlend was the foreft of Sletadale, on the north of
Dunrob‘n, the frat of the earls of Sutherland; and in the north of the
fame county, are marked Parff-foreft, between Afhir and Dunan ; tothe
fouth of which were Reay Foret, or that of Dirrymore : with thofe of
Dirrymore and Dirrymena, on the north and fouth of Loch Schin. No
other foreft occurs till we reach the county of Argyle, which contains
Boachiltive foreft on the north,
Borayy.] Having given a general account of the indigenous plants of
England, it will fuftice, for the botany of Scotland, to point out the
particulars ia which the two floras differ, together with the caufe of the
difference.
* Mineral King. 1. 12. From a papor read by Dr. Macknight, at a meeting of
the Wernerian Society of Ldin!urgh, March 1810, it appears, thot the bufe of Bin
Nevis is of gneis and mica-flate, which is followed by the tyenite of Werner, or a mix.
ture of feltpar and hornblend: while the fuperior portion of a dark grey colour feems
+ area to compact felipar, intimately mingled with horablend—Nicholfon’s Journal,
ay, i410,
{ tiv. of Moray, Aber, 1798. 8vo. p. 267.
The
The
it being
mounta
are bur
nor any
ifland, «
We mig
in Scot!
ina mil
number
warm, n
of chalk
tracts of
contain 1
hand, th
Badenoc
poffefs m
South B:
but thof
ifland, ar
iltic: to
foreign c
grand ro.
bocanift 1,
cuher alte
fider as tl
natural fo
by the tre
liag to the
f five or
tables will
trailing Z
corallarhis
regard,
by the th
mountain
ledges ung
cinquefoil
uva uri,
gloffy loay
the fiow ¢
famo. time
our native
Scotland
in Englan
bles: the
be met wi
ZOOL0¢
difting fr¢
have been
thofe of §
defeg whi
and qualit
fized bree
and Gullo
aySy
ates.
rey
evs,
nite,
inely
‘CUps
erior
river
y the
rway,
e latt,
Ins On
{kirts
hiftus,
uther.
aceous
sy KCe
1 to be
nefs to
vebbles
rwards
liceous
is: firft,
he SE.
> NW.
> fouth,
ce, as if
hools of
acceptie
. The
There
eenthire,
rorm. In
rorth of
1 of the
; tothe
thofe of
thin. No
contains
plants of
t out the
ife of the
meeting of
wfe of Bun
fr, OF a MIX.
tour feems
in's Journal,
The
SCOTLAND. 89
The northern part of Britain differs from the fouthern as to climate,
it being colder and more rainy ; and as to foil, in a ak chiefly of
mourtalious, granitic, or micaceous diltricts, the higheft peaks of which
are buried in perpetual fnow. There are no chalk-hills in Scotland ;
nor any of that foil which charactcrifes the fouth-eaftern part of the
jland, and is compofed, for the moit part, of fand and, calcareous marl.
We might therefore, a priori, expe to meet with more alpine plants
in Scotland than of thofe which flourifh beft in a light, chalky foil, and
ina mild climate; this is fornd to be in faét the cafe. The greater
number of vegetable fpecies is the fame in both countries; but the
warm, moift region of Cornwall, Devonfhire, and Dorfet ; the range
of chalk-hitls on each fide of the valley of the ‘Thames ; the dry, stp
tracts of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Cambridge, and the fens of Lincolnfhire
contain many plants that are unknown to Scotland: as, on the other
haud, the {nowy fummits of the Grampians, the extenfive foreits of
Badenoch and Braemar, and the bleak, fhelterlefs rocks of the Hebudes,
poffefs many hardy vegetables which are not to be found in England,
South Britain contains a greatér number of fpecies peculiar to itfelf
but thofe that are fimilarly circumitanced in the northern part of the
jfland, are of more freguent occurrence, and therefore more chara€ter-
itic: to the Englith botanift, Scotland will have more the air of a
foreign country than England will to a Scotifh naturalilt. Amidit the
grand romantic aca of the Highlands the fearch of the Englihh
botanift is continually folicited and repaid by the appearance of plants,
cher altogether new to him, or which he has been accuftomed to con-
fider asthe rare reward of minute inveftigation, In traverfing the valt
natural forefts of birch and pine, although his notice will be firlt attraéted
by the trees themfelves, in every {lage of growth, from the limber fap-
ling to the bare and weather-beaten trunks that have endured the ftorms
of five or fix hundred winters, yet the new forms of the humbler vege-
tables will foo divide his attention: the red and white bloffoms of the
trailing Linnea, the Pyrola fecunda, and uniflora, Satyrium repens, Ophrys
corallorbiza, and Convallaria verticillaia, will each attra& their fhare of
regard. "The moilt and fhady receffes of the {late mountains are carpeted
by the three Veronicas, the Alpina, the faxatilisy and se EN The
mountainous diltricts of granite are peculiarly rich in alpine plants; the
ledges and crevifes of the rocks are adorned by tufts of the golden
cinquefoil, and luxuriant feftoons of the Arduius alpina, and Arbutus
uva urfi, glowing with their fcarlet and deep blue berries among their
gloffy leaves. ‘The cloud-berry, and fome of the dichens, flourith amidit
the fuow and folitude ofgthe moft elevated fummits ; and afford at the
famotime fholter and food for the Ptarmigan, almoft the only one of
our native birds that can inhabit fo cold a fituation. The Lowlands of
Scotland feem to contain no plants which are not found in fimilar foils
in England ; the {a-coaft, however, exhibits two unbelliferous vegeta.
bles: the Liguflicum Scoticum, and Imperatoria Offruthium, which cannot
be met with oa the fouthern fhore,
Zoo.oay.] The Zoology of Scotland prefents little remarkable, as
diftin&t froin that of England, The {mall horfes of Galloway feem to
have been a primitive breed, and, in diminutive fize, are exceeded by
thofe of Shetland. The cattle in Galloway are often without horns, a
defeg} which is fuppofed to be recompented by the fuperior quantity
and quality of the milk. The kylies, as already meationed, are a middle.
fized breed from the province of Kyle, and other diltricts of Ayrthire
and Galloway. On the eall are found large cattle of various breeds,
The
90: SCOTLAND.
The fheep are {maller and fhorter than thofe of England ; thofe of
Shetland are remarkable for the finenefs of the wool, which is, however,
interfperfed with coarfer piles, Goats are not fo numerous in the High.
lands and ifles as might be expected,
Of wild animals, the wolf has been extirpated in Scotland only fince
the year 1680. The wild cat is ftill occafionally found; the other
claffes correfpond with thofe of England, except that the Roe is {till :
not unfrequent. Among the birds, eagles are not unknown, nor ele.
gant falcons, The fhores and iflands prefent numerous kinds of fea-fowl,
Scotland abounds with fith of all kinds, and contributes great fupplics
to the Englifh market, particularly in lobfters and falmon. The tranf.
parent lakes, rivers, and rivulets, prefent a beautiful variety of fith ; on
the northern and weitern coafts are numerous feals. -The whale fome.
times appears, and the bafking fhark frequently plays in the weftern
inlets. Pearls are found in the rivers Teith and Ythan, in a large kind
of myaor mufcle. Many beautiful zoophites, on the northern fhores,
have been found and introduced to public notice by Mr. Cordiner.
MineraAtocy.] The fmall quantity of gold found in Scotland has
been procured frem the Lead hills, which are moftly compofed of coarfe
flate. None worth mentioning has been met with recently. The filver
found in Scotland has hitherto been of little account ; the chief mine was
that at Alva, which has fince only afforded cobalt. Nor can Scotland boat
of copper, though a fmall quantity was found in the Ochills, near Alva,
with filver and cobalt : and it is faid that the iflands of Shetland offer
fome indications of that metal. Copper has alfo been found at Colvend,
in Galloway ; at Curry, in Lothian; at Oldwick, in Caithnefs; and
Kiffern, in Rofsthire.
The chief minerals of Scotland are lead, iron, and coal, The lead.
mines in the fouth of Lanarkfhire have been long known. Thofe of
Wanlock-head are in the immediate neighbourhood, but in the county :
of Dumfries. Some flight veins of lead have alfo been found in the
weftern Highlands, particularly Arran, Iron is found in yarious parts
of Bootiant ; the Carron ore is the moft known, it is an argillaceous
iron-ftone, and is found in flaty maffes, and in nodules, in an adjacent
coal-mine, of which it fometimes forms the roof. At the Carron works
this ore is often {melted with the red greafy iron ore from Ulvertton, in
Lancafhire, which imparts eafier fufion, and fuperior value. Calamine,
or zinc, isalfo found at Wanlock-head ; and it is faid, that plumbago
and antimony may be traced in Scotland.
But the chief mineral is coal, which has been worked for a fucceffion
of ages. Pope Pius II., in his defcription of Europe, written about
1450, mentions, that he beheld with wonder, back ftones given as alms
to the poor of Scotland, The Lothians, and Fifefhire particularly
abound with this ufeful mineral, which alfe extends into Ayrfhire ; and
near Irwin is found a curious variety called ribbon coal. j
In paffing to the lefs important minerals of Scotland, the new earth
originally found at Strontian, and called after the name of the place,
deferves the firft notice. Fine ftatuary marble is found in Affynt, and
the marble of ‘Tiree ranks among the moft beautiful varieties. Portfo
affords peculiarly fine ferpentine, and the pebbles of Agate and Cal.
cedony, in the neighbourhood ef Dunbar, are much valued by the
lapidaries.
MineraAt Watens.] The mineral waters of Scotland are numerous,
but none of equal fame with thofe of England. The chief are Moffat
wells in the fouth, and thofe of Peterhead in the north,
NATURAL
Maru
abounds \
of the C
The beau
unneceffar
Aberdeen
the Buller
Trouphea
production
The ifla
fall natural
[flands ; tl
On pafl
beautiful if
The firlt is
has 7000 in
Brodie caft!
barley t. N
particularly
ous region
parts of the
Bute is a
about 4009
Stuart, the
of the diitin
To the \
Weftern If);
length as A
many black
England lls
country 1s 1
of Shawfield
covered in ¢
filver.
Jura is di
miles in lenj
the moft ru
regions, 'T')
pearance ; tl
vegetation f ‘
tains abunda
The noted gt
ern extremit
To the we
hrait betweer
one ifland, al
arable, produ
* This n
+ Pennar
| S. AL x
@ Kaos’
ice
ler
till °
le.
‘l,
lies
nf.
on
ne«
ern
ind
TCS,
has
arte
lver
was
oatt
lva,
fer
end,
and
ead.
e of
inty °
the
Darts
ous
cent
orks
» in
ine,
aga
flion
pout
Ims
arly
and
barth
lace,
and
tfo
Cal.
the
ous,
offat
PRAL
SCOTLAND. ot
Natura Curiosities. ] Scotland, like other mountainous countries,
abounds with fingular fcenes, and natural curiofities. The beautiful falls
of the Clyde, near Lanark, have defervedly excited much attention,
The beauties of Loch Lomond have been fo often defcribed, that it is
unneceffary to repeat fo triviala theme, The rocks off the coaft of
Aberdeenthire often affume fingular forms of arches and pillars, of which
the Bullers of Buchan are the moft remarkable; and the fpace from
Trouphead to Portfoy abounds in uncommon rocks, end fingular marine
productions,
SCOTISH ISLES.
The iflands that belong to Scotland are numerous and important, and
fall naturally into three grand divifions: the Hebudes*, or Wetterr
[flands ; the Orkneys ; and the iflands of Shetland.
On paffing the conic rock, called Ailfa, towards the north, two
beautiful iflands adorn the Firth of Clyde, thofe of Arran and Bute +.
The firlt is about twenty-three miles in length, by nine in breaath, and
has 7000 inhabitants. + 'The chief place is the village of Ranza; and
Brodie caftle issmemorable in hiftory, The exports are black cattle and
barley t. Mr. Jamefon has recently publifhed an account of this ifland,
particularly its mineralogy, from which it appears that it is a mountain-
ous region; and Goatfell is near 3coo feet in height. The fouthern
parts of the ifland prefent low and cultivated grounds.
Bute is about twelve miles in length, by four in breadth; inhabitants
about 4009 ; the chief town is Rothfay, and in the vicinity is Mount
Stuart, the ornamented refidence of the Marquis of Bute, and worthy
of the diftinguifhed tafte of the noble proprietor.
To the weft of the Cherfonefe of Cantire, begin the Hebudes, or
Weftern Iflands, properly fo called. The firft is Ilay, about the fame
length as Arran, but nearly eighteen miles in breadth. Tlay produces
many black cattle, which are exported, and fometimes pafs as far as
England || ; but the fheep are rare. Small herfes are much ufed, as the
country is not very mountainous. This ifle belongs to Mr, Campbell,
of Shawfield. Inhabitants about 7000. Lead mines were here dif-
covered in the fand-{tone, 1763 ; this lead is, as ufual, mingled with
filver.
Jura is divided from the laft by a narrow found; it is about twenty
miles in length, but the breadth feldom more than five. It is one of
the moft rugged of the Hebudes, which, in general, are mountainous
regions, The paps of Jura, a line of conic hills, prefent a fingular ap-
pearance ; they are on the weltern fide of the ifland, and almoit bare of
vegetation ; . The bett crops are potatoes and barley ; and the ifle con-
tains abundance of peat. ‘The cattle are fmall, but the fheep_ excellent,
The noted gulph ce whirlpool of Brecan or Corryvrekan, is on the north.
ern extremity of Jura q.
To the weft of Jura are the ifles of Oranfa and Colonfa; and the
hrait between them being dry at low water, they may be confidered as
one ifland, about ten ae in length, The foil is generally light and
arable, producing barley and potatges, The venerable ruins of the an-
* This name was corrupted by Heétor Boyce, into Mebrides.
+ Pennant's Voyage, 168. $ Statift, Account, vol, ix, p, 169.
|| S. A. xi 278, § S.A. aii, 318,
@ Kaoa's View, ii, 451. ;
14 cicnt
92 SCOTLAND.
cient monaftery of Canons regular in Colonfo now exift no longer ; but
thofe of the curious priory in Oranfa {till remain*.
The next ifle of any confequence is that of Mull, one of the largeft
of the Hebudes, and furrounded with fmaller interctting iflands. Mull
is about twenty-eight miles in length, by a medial breadth of about
eightcen. An intelligent traveller informs us, that the population ig
about 7ooo+. Onthe N.E. is the new village of Tobermory.
The mof curious objects in the vicinity of Mull are, Icolm-kill and
Staffa. Hyona, or Icolm-kill, is about three miles long, by one broad,
and is venerable as the primitive feat of Scotifh literature and religion,
founded by St. Columba in the fixth century. Its hiftory and ruins lave
been often defcribed; but it may be added, from a recent traveller, that
the ifle produccs beautiful white marble, and large blocks of indurated
fteatites.
Staffa, about fix miles to the N. of Hyona, was firft introduced to
public notice by Sir Jofeph Banks. Buchanan has mentioned the 14e,
but not its grand fingularities, its beautiful bafaltic columns, and one of
the moft furprifing objects of nature, the vaft bafaltic cavern, called
Au-ua-vine, or the harmonious grotto, either from a melodious found,
roduced by the percuflion of the waves at the furtheft extremity, or
Pom the exact order in which the columns are difpofed{. Height of
the entrance fifty-fix feet, breadth thirty-five, thicknefs of the exterior
vault twenty. The depth, or length of the cavern is no lefs than 140
feet.
To ‘the N.W. of Mull are the ifles of Tirey and Col, the former
producing a moft beautiful marble, of a rofe-colour, penetrated with
{mall irregular chryftals of green hornblende, and which the French
naturalifts have, from the name of the ifle called Tirite, no fimilar
marble being any where found. ‘Tirey is generally plain and fertile;
Col, on the contrary, is rocky, but has feveral {mall lakes, replenithed
with fifh. .
Another group confifts of Skey, in the Scandinavian ftyled Skua,
and the furrounding ifles. Skey is the largeft of the Hebudes, being
about forty-five EngJith miles in length, and about twenty-two in
breadth. Inhabitants about 15,200; chief exports black-cattle and
forall horfes: the land, as ufual in the Hebudes, rough and hilly. The
houfes are chiefly turf, covered with grafs. The face of the countr
wild, heathy, and deluged with continual rains. To the fouth of Ske
are the ifles Rhum and Eig; andto the N.E. of Skey are Raza and
Scalpa. ‘The other ifles in this group offer little memorable. Canna
and Eig contain bafaltic pe and in the former is Compafs hill, which
ftrongly affects the needle.
It now remains to give fome idea of the »xterior chain of the Weftern
Ifles, forming, as it were, a barrier againft the Atlantic. Two fmall
and remote ifles have attraéted confiderable notice. The firft is that of
Rona, about twelve leagues to the N. W. of Cape Wrath, and about
thirty leagues W. from the Orkneys, This little ifle, with its companioy
Sulifka, or Bara, has almoft efcaped from the Scotifh maps, being little
known, and rarely vifited. In theJaft century, Sir George Mi Kensie,
ef Tarbat, afterwards Earl of Cromarty, drew up a fhort account of
* Stat. Acc. xii. 329.
+ St. Fond, tome ii. p, 89.
J Ib. tome ii. p. 59
Rona,
Rona, fr
only of 1
The fi
notice, e
about fix
a half lon
to the vy
fingular a
attention.
Having
plan here
principal
by twent
i é
the fhores
or fouth e
called a fo
to introdu
Stornaway
Stornaway
an excelle
houfes cov
rain, as uft
fiderable fit
will thrive ¢
but there an
horfes.
To the |
length fro
recent difca
other impra
Scotifh geo
with that of
rally cultiva
the year,
The {mal
South Viit
by about te
alfo throu
and verdure
are many {m
and kelp,
No accou
bar ty thea
noble propri
that Bah
year 1800 t
Ifand of
Mr. Headri
forth the p
extracted,
* Monro's
The Stat, Ace,
fT Stat. Ace,
‘mer
with
ench
nilar
tile;
ifhed
kua,
y eing
O in
and
The
ntry
yee
an
anna
hich
pftern
{mall
hat of
about
paniow
r little
enzic,
unt of
Rona,
SCOTLAND. 93
Rona, from the oral information of inhabitants, at that time confifting
only of five families *. :
The fmall ifle of Hirta, or St. Kilda, muft have attraéed much
notice, even in Lefley’s time, for in his map he has reprefented it as
about fix times the fize of Skey, while in truth it is only two miles and
a half long, by one mile in breadth. St. Kilda is about twelve leagues
to the weft of North Vift; and has been repeatedly defcribed, the
fingular and fimple manners of its inhabitants having excited confiderable
attention.
Having thus briefly mentioned thefe remote and little vifited ifles, the
plan here followed muft be refumed by fome account of Leuis, the
principal ifland of the weftern chain. It is about fifty miles in length,
by twenty in breadth. The face of the country confilts of a heathy
elevated ridge full of moraffes from the S.W. to N.E.; but near
the fhores are feveral verdant vales capable of cultivation. The Harris,
or fouth end of this ifle, is ftill more mountainous, and prefents what is
called a foreft, becaufe fome decr are there found. James VI. attempted
to introduce induftry into the Hebudes by planting a Dutch colony at
Stornaway, in Leuis ; but it was foon extirpated by the Inhabitants.
Stornaway is, however, now a confiderable and flourifhing town, with
an excellent harbour. Befides cottages, there are about feventy
houfes covered with flate. The feafons in Leuis are oppreffed with
rain, as ufual iu the weitern Highlands and ifles; but there is a con-
fiderable fifhery. The crops are oats, bigg, and potatoes; no trees
will thrive except alder and ‘mountain ath ; and hardly a fhrub appears :
but there are many black cattle and fheep ; nor is there any want of {mall
horfes.
To the fouth of Leuis is North Vift, about twenty-two miles in
length from E.to W. and about feventeen in breadth N. to S., for
recent difcoveries have rettorcd this ifleto its proper form, among many
other improvements which have taken place within thefe few years in
Scotith geography. The face of the country correfponds in general
with that of Leuis ; and trees are equally unknown, Potatoes are gene-
rally cultivated. Wedterly winds, with rain or fog, ulurp two-thirds of
the year. Lord Macdonald is the proprictor +.
The {mall ifle of Benbecula, and fome others, lie betwixt North and
South Viit; the latter is about twenty-three miles in length N. to S.
by about ten in breadth W.to E, The morafly central cfiain extends
alfo through this ile ; but to the eait are dry hills covered with heath
and verdure. The productions alfo refemble thofe of Leuis; and there
are many {mall lakes full of excellent trout. Chief exports, black cattle
and kelp. This ifle is alfo naked of wood.
No account having appeared of the mincralogy of the exterior He-
budes, the author was anxious to remedy that defect, and applied to the
noble proprictor the Earl of Seaforth, who is himfelf converfant_ with
that ference, and who kindly remitted fome intcrefting materials. In the
year 1800 there was privately printed at Edinburgh, a ‘ Report of the
Ifland of Leuis, and Eftates of Kintail and Lochalth, by the Rev.
Mr. Headrick, contained in letters to the Right Hon. Lord Sea.
forth the proprietor ;’? from which the mineralogical portion fhall be
extracted,
The Stat. Acc. xix. a7t, adds authing,
¢ Stat. Ace. xii, 300.
“ A vast
* Monro's Defcript. of the W. Ifes, in 1549. Edin. 17-4. Muodec’m>, p. 63.
ia
SOR Ae eas ciation.
‘gg SCOTLAND.
“A vat body of breccia, or coarfe plum-pudding ftone; “uns from
the weft of Arnifh to beyond Grace. The {tones of which it is com.
pofed have evidently been worn and rounded in the bottom of the fea,
The harder fpecies of this ftone are cemented by filex and iron, which
feem to have undergone a partial vitrification. In other parts, the ce.
ment ts an indurated clay, which diffolves by the weather. In the pe-
ninfulg about Aignifh, and on the oppofite fhore, near Back, the ce.
ment is a red calcareous clay, or fpecies of clay-marl, which lightly
effervefces with an acid.
“© Through this body of plum-pudding ftone run various veins of {par
of lime. Theré are alfo various veins of whinftone, running’ nearl
from fouth to north, The moit remarkable of thefe is one to the eaf}
of Grace, and which alfo appears on the oppofite fhore near Garra-
boft. It is compofed of large cubical ftones, arranged in the form of
a regularly built wall. There is another remarkable dyke of this fort
at Stornaway, on part of which the old cattle itands. There it af.
fumes the fhape of rude columnar bafalt.
“To the eait of Grace, where this plum-pudding rock joins the
granite, I found a body of limeftone interpofed betwixt them: alfo,
below Garraboft, where the plum-pudding rock is cut off on that fide,
I found a vein of fpar of lime. To thefe veins of limeftone I impute
the italactites, and {talagmitie incruitations, which are found in the feal
cove of Grace, and in many other caverns which the fea has formed
along thefe coafts
“At the head of the bay, fouth-eaft from Aignifh, the plum-pud.
ding {tone exhibits a finaller grain, like red Setlhiotds and is arranged
in regular ftrata. Al the plum-pudding rocks are ftratified ; though
mott of the ftrata are of great thicknefs, and many of them irregular,
They are interfected by cracks, which run either Abin eaft to weit or
from north to fouth.
“ The plum-pudding rock is cut off towards Chicken Point and at
Garraboit by a very thacsees: fpecies of lava, which includes veins of
iron ftone, and in fome places of terras, or puzzolane eatth. The fame
appears at Tolfta Point, and in fome places on the weft fide of Nefs,
«© All the other rocks I have feen in Leuis are granites, of various
fpecies and qualities. Near Stornaway they are extremely fhattery and
full of cracks, Towards Birken Iles Loch, or Loch Erifort, they be-
come micaceous 3 towards Loch Dungeon, and in various parts of Loch
Seaforth, they are arranged in thick ftrata, which might afford good
ftones for building. Thefe rocks incl@de many beautiful filiceous
cryftals, and nodtles of chalcedony. . '
“© All thefe rocks are interfected by veins or dykes of whin-ftone,
which run nearly from fouth to north, inclining a few points towards
north-weft and fouth-eaft. Some of thefe veins are decompofed by the
weather. Others are compofed of ftones built into the form of a regular
wall, like that at Grace, and a few affe&t a columnar form. Many of
thefe veins, efpecially in the di#ri& of Uig, are filled with talcite, a
very hard porous {pecies of {tone, of which they make mill-ftones, In
Fach cafes, the interftices are filled with a foft {pecies of talc, in fmall
lamin, called here fheep’s filver.
¢¢ In the mountains of Uig are many veins of this foft talcky matier,
and alfo in other places; for they all run acrofs the country in the die
rection already fpecified,
y p ; “ With
lumnar appear
lide the limefto
excellent clay r
companies coal
taing many ftrat
are not complet:
tike place in b,
W;
terfect t
alfo inelh
“ Th
weltward
femi-tran
alfo in de
lows I {a
to the roc
they app
H ae
cemented
(t3 Befid
there are j
There are
Seaforth, :
“ The ¢
contemplat
grand and ,
remoteft co
sé They |
other, with
or hepar of
ways been ¢
much refem,
veins of bear
within its erg
“ The lim
Much of it
and many of
limeftone, an
{pecies of fea
fone and ot}
Garve Ifland
black rock
good anchoragq
“ This blag
the mafs whi
which the co
fouth-weft, a;
natural arch uy;
4 Paffing '
covered by the
of the fame fo
“ On its nos
one, which ruy
66 The bafal
he
fo,
dey
ute
feal
ned
ud-
| ged
ugh
ular.
k or
1 at
s of
fame
Se
1OUS
and
y be-
och
pood
eous
ones
atter,
ne die
With
SCOTLAND. 95
ts With the whin-ftone veins or dykes already mentioned, which in-
terfeét the rocks, are connected veins of fpar of lime. Many of thefe
alfo include veins of iron-ftone, or ore of iron.
« The moft curious veins of that fort are at Rebbock Head, and
weltward. There I found the moft beautiful, regularly formed, and
{emi-tranfparent rhomboidal cryftals of lime, both arranged in veins, and
alfo in detached nodules, inthe hollows of the rocks. In fimilar hol-
lows I faw alfo nodules of chalcedony, which on one fide adhered firmly
to the rock, and even included loofe chips of ftone; on the other fide
they appeared bliftery, like fome metals which fhrink after fufion.
Here alfo I faw a vait vein, compofed of rounded ftones, which are
cemented by means of {par of lime, regularly cryttallized.
“« Befides the whin-ftone and talcky veins which interfec& the granite,
there are innumerable veins of filiceous fpar running in all directions,
There are alfo veins of foft micaceous fchiftus, chiefly towards Loch
Seaforth, which feem.to indicate that veins of flate are not remote.
« The Schaut Ifles are certainly the greateft curiofities my eyes ever
contemplated ; and were they known, men fond of viewing all that is
grand and uncommon in the productions of nature, would come from the
remoteft corners of the world to fee them.
« They confift of two ranges or ftrata of bafaltes placed above each
other, with limeftone, f{chiftus, and a ftratum-that feems to be fulphur,
or hepar of lime, interpofed between them. This laft ftratum has al-
ways been taken for common, limeftone by the people, which it very
much refembles ; but it does not effervefce with acid, and contains thin
veins of beautifully cryftallized gypfum, formed from its oxygenation
within its cracks and cavities.
“© The limeitone is of three colours, blue, whitifh-grey, and {parry.
Much of it is contaminated by martial pyrites, beautifully cryftallized,
and many of them indented into each other in a curious manner. The
limeftone, and feveral of the rocks contiguous to it, contain various
fpecies of fea-fhells, petrified, and of the moft perfeét form. The lime-
{tone and other ftrata appear at various points along the north fide of
Garve Ifland. They appear alfo in the neck that joins a remarkable
black rock with that ifland, where there is a commodious bay, with
good anchorage.
« This black rock is a ledge of bafaltes, lefs perfectly formed than
the mafs which refts upon it. It isthe bafis, or inferior ftratum, on
which the columns of the Garve Ifland reft. It dips rapidly to the
fouth-weft, and rifes to the north-eaft. This rock has a remarkable
natural arch under it, which is the common paflage for boats.
“ Paffing over to the Green Iftand, which projects a ledge of rocky:
covered by the tide, to meet the black rock, we find it wholly compofed
of the fame fort of bafalt with the latter. It every where affeéts a cos
lumnar appearance, though the columns are rude and ill-formed.
‘¢ On its north-weft corner are feen all the ftrata of fchiftus and lime-
ftone, which run below the columns of Garve Ifland. Onthe fouth-weit
fide the limeftone projects like a vein ; and there is here a valt mats of
excellent clay marl, formed from its decompofition. Above this place
avalt body of f{chiftus is expofed to view: it refembles that which acs
companies coal, only more indurated; and, like coal fchithus, it con-
tains many {trata of iron-itone,
“ The bafaltic columns of Garve Ifland, though amazingly high,
are not completely detached, with fmooth furfaces and regular joints, ag
tuke place in bafaltic columns of the moft perfect kind. They have all
a ‘light
——a— ean
es
hs nnn
56 “SCOTLAND. |
a flight inclination towards the fouth-weft, and are interfeéted by ¥2.
rious cracks or planes, running moftly at an angle of 45 with the
columns. <A tail of rocks projects towards the fouth-wcit from Garve,
which exhibits many whimfical varieties of bafaltes. In one rock they
are waved, rifing at an angle of about 45°, but are fuddenly bent into a
perpendicular afcent, without any vilible fracture, or rupture of their
continuity. In another rock they are thrown al.aoft into a horizontal
polition, with the ends of the columns fticking out towards the north,
as if the rock had been overturned by more than gigantic force. Two
columnar rocks project boldly from the fea, refembling two mafly
{quare towers, which defy the fury of the waves.
“© On the northecaft corner of Donald Bane’s Ifland, or Y-kill, which
is joined to Garve by a narrow neck, there are feveral cluiters of bafaltic
columns of the moft perfect kind. They ftand perpendicular, are per-
fedtly fmooth, extremely hard ; are moftly five-fided, with their angles
cut off; and are as perfect as if formed by the moft fkilful mafon. They
are regularly joined at the fame horizontal elevation. Some ranges do
not exceed eight or ten inches in height, from joint to joint ; the reft are
from three to four fect. The joints are moit curioufly formed : every
lower piece has a {mooth cavity on the upper end, which is exa@ly filled
by the coavexity of the piece which refts upon it. Thefe bafaltic rocks
contain many nodules of zeolite, and various filiceous cryftals,
s¢ The foil of thefe iflands, where it is not naturally wet, is excellent,
and produces every f{pccies of fweet graffes without culture. The only
exception to this remark is a part of the Green Ifland, where the fort
refts upon the fchiftus already defcribed. The foil formed from the de.
compofition of bafalt is univerfally good.”
The granite of the Leuts is of a vait variety of colour and grain, but
chiefly black and red of a fine grain, In many places it is mixed with
much mica, and with quartz, felfpar, &c. in detached portions, where
in fome fpots it contains great quantities of fchorl. It is interfeded
with many dykes or veins of bafalt. In the moffes or peat-moors, which
are numerous, there is abundance of bog ore of iron. The ifles of
North and South Vift and Barrow are fuppofed to be of a fimilar ftruc-
ture with Leuis and Harris. In North Vift there is a large track of
fea-fand, which might be valuable in making glafs. It muft not be for.
gotten that the ifle of Leuis produces, in the parith of Nig, that fcarce
mineral malybdena. Dr. Walker has fomewhere afferted, that the little
ifle of Bernero confifts of amianthus, but this information feems to have
been derived from fome ignorant obferver, who may perhaps have mif-
taken a decayed fchorl for that fubftance.
The iflands of Orkney and Shetland remain to be defcribed. The
Orkneys form a numerous group around the Main Land, or what, by
fome new and fabulous term, is called Pomona*, ‘The Main Land is
about twenty-five miles in length E. to W. by about thirteen in breadth
N. to S. Kirkwall, the chief town of the Orkneys, contains about
three hundred houfes, and has # ftately cathedral dedicated to St.
* Magnus. Oppotite ftands the bifhop’s palace, now called a caftle.
The chief exports of Kirkwall are beef, pork, butter, tallow, hides,
calf fkins, rabbit {kins, falted fith, oil, feathers, linen yarn, and coarle
linen cloth, kelp+, and in fruitful years corn. The chief imports are
* The old accounts are Wallace’s 1693, and Brand’s 170% the modern, the Sta.
titic Survey.
+ sauha praduces great quantitics of kelp; when the Orkgeys in general may yield
2500 tous, §CO ad 600 are drawn trom thutifle only, 5. Avil 455.
15
wood
,, Bteat detache
‘ and caverng t
" thefe amazino
lind. Captain D,
the Main land “a
of almoft ninet
ln Donnelly’s ‘may
ournal, Ma
prefented in the {
‘lt’ a degree further
ed a map of thefe
ately been Publithed 4
wood, f
bifcuit,
tons. I
20,8037,
this lait v
over the
foil is go
are {mall,
milk. TT
Swine alfo
numbers of}
yielded to
vilized for
this region
promontory
inftead of
fone, about
art, probab|
The inhak
people at 2 3.
Jamefon’s re,
The ifland
Orkney, witl
is much inter:
by about ten
generally {mal
* thefe ifland,
“ ren rocks pl
“ to relieve th
“ however, a
“ the traveller
“ contratt to t]
“weltern par
“ conceived ; ,
“ fhores bound
“ mind ideas 0
“ The coatt
“ many places
“ heig Mts, drez
“ all the fury o
sd s, A XX 61
R 2.
t We have bet
¥» 1799
amefon’s Min, q
tic
cre
les
hey
, do
are
very
Wed
ocks
ent,
only
ie fork
he de-
ny but
1 with
where
{eed
which
fles of
r {truce
ack of
be for-
{carce
e little
to have
Ave mil-
. The
hat, by
Land 1s
breadth
g about
to bt
a cattle.
’ hides,
ad coarle
ports are
, the Sta
may yield
wood
SCOTLAND. 97
wood, flax, coal, fugar, f{pirits, wines, tobacco and {nuff, flour, and
pifcuit, foap, leather, hardwares, broad cloth, printed linens and cot-
tons In 1790 the exports were valued at 26,598/., and the imports at
20,803/ ‘The manufatures are linen yarn, and coarfe linens, and kelp :
this lait was introduced about fixty years ago, and has been fince diffufed
over the Highlands and ifles. In moft parts of the main land the
foil is good, though fhallow, with a calcareous bottom. The horfes
are {mall, but {pirited; and the cows, though alfo fmall, yield excellent
milk. The fheep in the iflands of Orkney are computed at 50,000.
Swine alfo abound, of a dirty white colour, and diminutive fize. The
numbers of fea-fowl may be eafily imagined. The Norfe language has
yielded to the Englifh, and the manners of the people are fingularly ci-
vilized for fo remote a region. The Ward hill of Hoy, the higheft in
this region (1620 feet), ftands in the ifland of the fame name, the S. E.
promontory of which is erroneoufly called Walls in the Englifh maps,
inftead of the native name Waes: near its bottom is the noted dwarfy
ftone, about 34 feet long, by 17 broad, and 8 high, hollowed out by
art, probably for the refidence of fome hermit.
The inhabited iflands of Orkney are computed at twenty-fix, and the
people at 23,053*; the bafe is chiefly fand ftone, as appears from Mr.
Jamefon’s recent Mineralogy of the Scotith ifles.
The iflands of Shetland prefent another group fimilar to thofe of
Orkney, with a main land or chief ifland in its centre. The main land
is much interfe&ted by the fea; and is about fifty-feven miles in length,
by about ten or twelve miles of medial breadth+. The other ifles are
generally fmall, yet twenty-fix. are faid to be inhabited. “On viewing
« thefe iflands in general, a wonderful fcene of rugged, bleak, and bar-
« ren rocks prefents itfelf'to our view. No tree or fhrub is to be feen,
« to relieve the eye in wandering over thefe dreary fcenes. Sometimes,
« however, a few fcanty portions of cultivated ground catch the eye of
« the traveller, exciting emotions of pleafure, and forming a ftrikin
«“ contraft to the barren heath-covered mountains which fkirt them. The
“ weftern part prefents many fcenes as wild and fterile as can well be
“ conceived ; grey rocks rifing from the midft of marfhes or pools, and
e
« fhores bounded by awful fea-beat precipices, do not fail to raife in the
“ mind ideas of defolation and danger.
“ The coafts are in general rugged and precipitous, prefenting in
« many places fcenes deile gent and magnificent ; vait seals of various
“ beghts dreadfully rugged and broken, oppofing their rude fronts to
« all the fury of a tempeftuous ocean ; which in fome places has formed
“ great detached pillars, in others has excavated grand natural arches
« and caverns that mock all human magnificence, and {trike the beholder
« with that awe and wonder which mutt affe&t every one on viewing
“ thefe amazing wrecks of nature }.””
9S, A. xx. 612.
+ We have better charts of the coafts of New Holland than of the ifles of Shet-
land, Captain Donnelly’s chatt of the Shetland ifles feems the moft accurate, in which
the Main land correfponds in length with Leuis, while Ainfley’s would give a length
of almoft ninety miles. Yell and Unft feem alio more properly dilpofed in Cap-
tin Donnelly’s map. ‘Bhe Danifh Captain Von Lowenorn (Zach’s Geographical
Journal, May, 799) found that the Shetland ifles were about one-third fhorter than
rprefented in the Englifh map (Prefton’s); which alfo puts the northern extremity
hilf'a degree further nofth than it was found by minute obfervations. Lowenorn pub-
lithed a map of thefe ifles in 1787. An interefting account of the Shetland ifles has
htely been publithed by Dr. Edmonftone, 2 vols. 8vo.
{ Jamefon’s Min. p. a, 3. 8vo.
H Such
_———
hE s etn ae
vein ino a ap ie OT
SCOTLAND.
a iter ; who adds, that the
: imated defcription of a late writer ; w
é ate of dh land, and other ifles, is comparatively ie Roce
pe ft loft and rugged. This is well known to be . : e be st
eaten: and idlends, becaufe the winds and tempefts from
have more power than thofe from the oppofite aendf bisceta, a0
"'The hills in Shetland are ehiefly.compoted of fand fveve fometlmenen,
he bafis feems gneifs, and micaccous {chiftus, which ave cohabs hee
poled to the aio” Limeftone is alfo found, and fome granite; but, on
the wilt bi i i Lipset slavartabla ond cued with raing
ak k fo on The frotts are feldom fevere, and fnow rarely pei at
Napa she round. The mhabitants are indeed coer wretc ed
. ae additional evils; and a benevolent government he hid Sf ike
be ‘cular attention to thofe diftant prifoners. ‘T he corru ey a ;
Dead Borealis illuminate the long gloom of kein _ i tera
: abit ts, who call them merry dancers. The arab e lan Potat y
Re fhe oaft, and produces a coarfe kind of oats and nee. Pe MH ae
have i i i formed an addition of fingular advantage. na c oi sie sade
i habitants confifts of fith, and various kinds of fea-fowl, w idit d
ie ee the captors of the laft thew cinta te and bed a
paar? : ate amidit the itupendous p Ices.
often meet Oe Orkney, and the butter is eats
if sah a i ted Sheep are not sages ps ss nsec
; 2 heir fleece. e horfes :
beaut i Soran ieee “the fin ular minutenefs of their fize, have
Hesoniie objects of luxury and curiolity in England. about 150 fa
“Elvaiel, the chief town, or rather ae eet alah formed by
Py harbour calle ralla )
the tle ile of ‘Braffa, poe ealt of the main land, and formerly greatly
e
fifhers. ; :
frequented by the Dutch nd are fifth of various kinds, chiefly her-
_ The os a hae spite io ae talk, The inhabitants of the sa
FINgs, CO, ", ere computed at 20,186*, more than the oh "y ie
aie “ Ma ‘ In this dikant region there are neither roads om ite si
Which ey be pron suneay tie Si tepeivany ie the Ochre, and ae
i ye The fame deficiency occurs in
et Gan exeenity of Scotland; where, ae & rend bas
her recently opened between Ullapool and Dornoch.
98
® Stat. Acc. xx. 612.
Nanes.
U
Names. ]
the Pheenic
was known
before the
tain, he de
which he hz
in the latte
them; and
accuracy to
the Weltern
and had bee;
the ruling pe
began to 2
writers till ¢}
modern Sco
honours, It
Ireland, are
country of th
Extent,
and about rg
may be comy
millions, ther
RIGINAL
tion of Trelang¢
brethren the
feized on the
pafed to the
ditions, and a
hominated Se
extending the
‘gun to mak
Britain,
PRrocress;
mentioned ig ¢
neral fhape, rj
curacy ag coy
middle a es, t
thief tribes md
the Venicni an
agnati, Aute
LAND.
(99 )
IRELAND.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Nanes. — Extent. — Original Population. — Progrefive Geography. —
Hiftorical Epochs. — Antiquities.
Clusia large and fertile ifland of Ireland, being fituated to
Names] the weft of Great Britain, was probably difcovered by
the Phoenicians as early as the fifter iflandy and it appears that the ifland
was known to the Greeks by the name of Juverna, about two centuries
before the birth of Chrift. When Cefar made his expedition into Bri-
tain, he defcribes Hibernia as being about half the fize of the ifland
which he had explored ; and while the Romans maintained their conquefts
in the latter region, Ireland continued of courfe to be well known to
them; and Profemy has given a map of the ifland, which is fuperior in
accuracy to that which reprefents Scotland. ‘Towards the decline of
the Weltern Empire, as the country had become more and more known,
and had been peopled with various tribes, the Romans difcovered that
the ruling people in Ireland were the Scoti; and thenceforth the country
began to be termed Scotia, an appellation retained by the monatftic
writers till the eleventh century, when the name Scotia having paffed to_
modern Scotland, the ancient name of Hibernia began to reaffume its
honours. It is fuppofed that this name, and the Gothic denomination
Ireland, are mere modifications of the native term Erin, implying the
country of the weft.
Extent. ] ‘The extent of this noble ifland is about 300 miles in length,
and about 180 at the greateft breadth. The contents in fquare miles
may be computed at 27,457*; and the population being about three
millions, there will be about 114 inhabitants to each fquare mile. -
OricInAL PoruLaTion.] It is probable that the original popula-
tion of Ireland paffed from Gaul, and was afterwards increafed by their
brethren the Guydil from England. About the time that the Belgz
feized on the fouth of Bagland, it appears that kindred Gothic tribes
pafd to the fouth of Ireland. ‘Thefe are the Firbolg of the Irifh tra-
ditions, and appear to have been the fame people whom the Romans de-
nominated Scoti, after they had emerged to their notice, by not only
extending their conquefts to the north and eaft in Ireland, but had
begun to make maritime excurfions againft the Roman provinces in
Britain.
ProcressivE GeoGRAPHY.] The map of Ireland by Ptolemy above
mentioned is the firft geographical document of the ifland. The ge-
neral fhape, rivers, and promontories are delineated with as much ac-
curacy as could have been ae Nay, as we advance into the
middle ages, the geography of Ireland becomes more obfcure. The
thief tribes mentioned by Ptolemy are the Darni upon the north-eatt,
the Venicni and Robogdii on the north-weft. Beneath them are the
Nagnati, Auteri, and Gangani on the weft, the Erdini in the centre,
© Beaufort; ‘p. 14, fays, zoveperinglith miles,
f A gniversifag “Sy, and
ea nN
ba , Riva’ \
BABRIQTHECA
iy
‘3
.
~
fy
Cuidnsis eA
ssa amar
>
Ne
IRELAND.
and the Voluntii, Eblani, and Cauci on the eaft; fucceeded by the
fouthern tribes of the Menapii, Brigantes, Bodii, Ivelni, Velabri, and
Luceni. Ptolemy alfo mentions ten towns; of which the chief is .
Eblana, now Dublin. In the middle ages we find the Dalriadi on the
north-eaft, and the Crutheni on the north-weft.. The large tribe of
Nelli occupy much of the centre. The Voluntii feem transformed into
the people of Ullagh; the Erdini of Ptolemy yield the name to Argialli;
and the Nagnati to Maigh Nais. The Gangani of Ptolemy feem the
Galeng of the middle ages. The Menapii, &c. muft be traced in Mu.
man, or prefent Munfter. The towns mentioned by Ptolemy might
alfo be traced with fome degree of accuracy.
The ravages of the Danes, in the ninth and pccichy centuries, can.
not be fuppofed to throw much light on the progreflive geography of
Ireland ; but the fettlements of the Englifh under Henry II. certainly
contributed to that end, for Giraldus Cambrenfis at that period com.
pofed his defcription of Ireland, which, amidft numerous fables, con.
tains fome curious faéts ; and the geography of Ireland was little better
known till the reign of Elizabeth, when Stanihurft publifhed his de.
{cription, which was foon followed by that of Spenfer the poet. The
ay remarkable diftinction introduced by the new invaders into Ireland
was that of the Englifh pale, or circuit of a few counties around Dub.
lin, within which the Englifh language was chiefly {fpoken. So incon.
fiderable, indeed, were the Englith poffeffions in Ireland, that the mo.
narchs only affumed the ftyle of Lords of Ireland, till the reign of
Henry VIII. when King of Ireland became a part of the fovercign’s
ftyle. Nor was Ireland completely fubjugated till the reign of the firft
James, who adds this merit to that of founding the American colonies;
but mankind will ever be infatuated by the triumphs of war, and prefer
a meteor to the pure light of a pacific reign.
Hisroricat Epocus.] The firtt hifforical epoch of Ireland is its
original population by the Celtic Gauls, and the fubfequent coloniza-
tion by the Belge.
2. The maritime excurfions of the Scoti againft the Roman provinces
in Britain.
- The converfion of Ireland to Chriftianity in the fifth century,
which was followed by a fingular effect ; for while the mafs of the people
retained all the ferocity of favage manners, the monafteries produced
many men of fuch piety and learning, that Scotia or Ireland became
celebrated all over Chriftendom.
» This luftre was diminifhed by the ravages of the Scandinavians,
which began with the ninth century, and can hardly be faid to have
ceafed when the Englifh fettlement commenced. The ifland had been
fplit into numerous principalities, or kingdoms as they were fty led ; and
though a chief monarch was acknowledged, yét his power was feldom
efficient, and the conftant diffentions of fo many fmall tribes rendered
the ifland an eafy prey.
. Inthe year 1170, Henry II. permitted Richard Strongbow Earl
of Pembroke to effect a fettlement in Ireland, which Iaid the foundation
of the Englith poffeffions in that country. There are however coins of
Canute, king of England, ftruck at Dublin, perhaps in acknowledg-
ment of his power by the Danith fettlers,
6. Ireland began to produce fome manufactures about the fourteenth
century, and ve itigs 9 or thin woollen cloths, were exported to Italy.
It is probable that thefe were produced by the Briftolian colony, which
had paffed to Dublin, as mentioned in the defcription of England.
9» Richard
100
”. Ric
, ireland, t
effected,
plith this p
8. In tk
colonies of
9. wor
coluplete
{chools, fy
Englith lan;
ttigated by
Englith fert
Cromwell le
10. The;
alfo deferve ;
11. The
within thefe
hiftorical epo
12. The ¢
have led the
it is eagerly
vantages,
_AyTiquity
rical epochs, ;
ing to each, ;
ftruéted of we
pected that an
ployed in the ¢
barrows wantir
memoration of
Druidic, ma
cular temples,
more properly
_ The converfj
tion of a vaft n
puted to exceed
ginally {mall, a
bt. Bernard, i
gular novelty j
But the Sea
the ufe of {tone
nation whom th
what are called
bably fome cha ’
,OF the eleven
religious, ma
having been dec]
himfelf by his
1073, was alio a
and their fucceff
or Scandinavians
n taught the
* See Ledwich's
funty of Carlow, ai
IRELAND. . ‘101 -
», Richard II. king of England, attempted in perfon the conqueft of
Yreland, but being imprudent and ill ferved, nothing of moment was
* effected. The fubfequent attempts of the Englifh monarchs to accom.
plifh this purpofe seed not be enumerated. »
; 8. In the reign of James I. Ireland became entirely fubjugated ; and
‘ colonies of Englifh and Scots were eftablifhed in the north.
; . The chief mean of the affimulation of the countries having been
c coiipletely negleé&ted, namely, the univerfal inftitution of parochial
. {chools, for the education of children in the proteftant religion and
t Englith language, the Irifh continued a diftin€t people ; and, being in-
tigated by their fanatic priefts, executed their dreadful maflacre of the
m Englifh fettlers in 1641. This infurrection was not totally crufhed till
of Cromwell led his veterans into Ireland.
ly 10. The appearance of James II. in Ireland to reclaim his crown may
uy alfo deferve a place,
wel 11. The amazing progrefs of Ireland in manufactures and commerce,
A within thefe twenty years, may be claffed as the moft illuftrious of its
le. hiftorical epochs, . °
he 12. The deplorable events which have recently happened in Ireland
ind have led the way to its union with Great Britain; a meafure which,
ube it iseagerly to be hoped, will be productive of great reciprocal ad-
us vantages.
ic? AnTIQuiTies.] Upon a review of the more ancient of thefe hifto.
: of rical epochs, and of the monuments which may be confidered as belong-
ah ing to each, it muft be confidered that the edifices having been con-
hrf ftruéted of wood till the eleventh or twelfth century, it cannot be ex-
wet pected that any remains of them fhould exift. Stone was chiefly em-
refer ployed in the conftrutiqn of funeral ereétions of various kinds; nor are
barrows wanting in Ireland, being hillocks of earth thrown up in com-
oie memoration of the illuftrious dead. Other monuments, commonly ftyled
err Druidic, may alfo be found in Ireland; fuch as fingle ftones erett, cir-
; cular temples, or rather places of judgment, and the like, which may
a more properly be afcribed to the Belgic colony *.
The converfion of Ireland to Chrittianity was followed by the erec-
sh tion of a vaft number of churches and monatteries, the latter being com-
b je puted to exceed one thoufand in number ; but all thefe edifices were ori-
wt ginally fmall, and conftruéted of interwoven withes, or hewn wood; for
one St. Bernard, in the twelfth century, mentions a ftone church as a fin-
, guiar novelty in Ireland.
+ But the Scandinavian chiefs muft before this period have introduced
the ufe of ftone into the caftles neceffary for their own defence againft a
nation whom they oppreffed. ‘To the Scandinavian period alfo belong
what are called the Danes Raths, or circular intrenchments ; and pro-
bably fome chapels.
_Of the eleventh and twelfth centuries many monuments, caftellated or
religious, may probably exift in Ireland. Brian Boro, king of Munfter,
having been declared fovereign of Ireland in the year 1002, diftinguifhed
himfelf by his virtues and courage; and Dermid III. A. D. 1041—
1073, was alio an excellent and powerful prince. Under thefe monarchs
and their fucceffors, T'udelvac and Moriertac, the power of the Oftmen,
or Scandinavians, was confiderably weakened. ‘The native chiefs had
been taught the neceffity of fortreffes, and were generally devoutly at+
dation
bins of
ledg-
eenth
Italy.
whiclt
bichard
* See Ledwich’s introdudtion to Grofe's Antiquities of Ireland, for Cremlechs in the
tounty of Carlow, and a cave in Meath, '
H 3 tached
102 IRELAND...
tached to religions it is therefore to be inferred that many ¢aftles
churches, and monafteries now began to be partly conftrucied in ftone,
by architeés invited from France and England; but perhaps the round °
towers were ereted by native builders.
The caftles, churches, and monatteries erected fince the period of the
Englifh fettlement might be counted by hundreds, and for them one ge.
neral reference may be made to the works of Ledwich and Grofe,
Among {maller reliques of antiquity, the golden trinkets found ina
bog near Cullen, in the fouth, deferve mention; as gold was found in
Gaul, they are perhaps ornaments of the ancient chiefs brought from
that region.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. me Desighahie Geography. — Civil Divifions. —- Government, —
Population. — Army. — Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance
and Relations.
HE legal religion of Ireland is that of the church of
Resicrox.} | England} but it is comnuted that two-thirds of the
ple are Catholics, and of the remaining third the Prefbyterians are
uppofed to conftitute one half.
EccresiasticaL Grocraruy.] The ecclefiaftic geography of Ire.
land comprizes fopr arch-bifhoprics, in themfelves an evidence of the
great number of churches formerly wire _ eighteen bifhoprics.
ea
Kilmore and Ardagh
Dromore
Clogher
Raphoe
Downe and Connor
Peal
ildare
Under the archbifhop of Dublin 6 and Laughlin
ory
Waterford and Lifmore
Limerick
Killaloe
Cork and Rofs
Cloyne
uP in
he archbifhop of Tuam Cloyne
parr t Killala and Achonry*.
The catholics have alfo a hierarchy nearly fimilar, but the metropoli.
tans and bithops are confidered by the proteftants as wear titular.
The prefbyterians, though here diffenters, partake in fome of
the nature and privileges of an eftablithment. They are chiefly defcended
from the Scotith prefbyterians and Englith puritans, whom James I.
encouraged to fettle in Ulter. The prefbyterian form of government
is in fome degree retained, and the minifters of nearly all the prefbyte-
Under the archbifhop of Armagh
are the bifhops of
Under the archbifhop of Cathel
© Gough's Camden, iii. 487. ‘The primacy is worth Bool. a year, Derry oool, the
other bithoprics from 4ocol. tg 20001, Young, ti. 3 )
riane
rians meet
concerns o
eftimated a
free from :
fubject.
GOVERN
the plan of
another of
viceroy. B
the fanction
land being
tically the f
and commor
Civit D
viz. Ulfter
and Munfte
the followin;
In Uliter
In Connaugh
PoruLati
Many contend
it to above fi
official return
each houfe, it
low the real n
Army. ]}
1780 raifed u
confiderable m
capable of
Of mariners
naval officers {
themfelves by
fsvenun.
intelligent tra
when Snofe o
changes have t
according toa
a4
IRELAND. 103
yians meet annually in the fynod of Ulfter, in which all the general
concerns of the body are difcuffed. The number of prefbyterians is
eftimated at half a million. Since the repeal of the teft a they are
free from all thofe reftri€tions to which the diflenters in England are
fubject.
Govennuent.] ‘The government of Ireland was conftruéted upon
the plan of that of England, being vefted in the houfe of commons, and
another of peers, while the king was reprefented by a lord lieutenant or
viceroy. But no act of importance was confidered as valid, till it received
the fanétion of the king and council of Great Britain. At prefent Ire-
land being united to England, the form of government is of courfe iden-
tically the fame. - There are fome minute variations between the ftatute
and common laws of Ireland and thofe of England.
Crivit Divisioys.} Ireland is primarily divided into four provinces,
viz. Ulfter to the north, Connaught to the Weft, Leiniter to the Eaft,
and Munfter to the South. The fubdivifions are counties, of which
the following is a lift : ‘
Antrim ue
Down Meat
Armagh Chews
Tyrone Wicklow
In Uliter Lancet ; era
Donega . ilkenny
Feeenuest In Leiner rea
Cavan . ildare
Monaghan , js teen
Leitrim ing’s-county
Sligo Weitmeath
In Connaught ¢ Rofcommon aie
Mayo are
Galway Limerick
In Muntter 4 Rety
Waterford
Tipperary
PoruLaTion.] The population of Ireland has been varioufly ftated.
Many contend that it does not exceed three millions, while others fwell
it to above five millions. As the number of houfes, according to the
official return of 1791, was above 700,000, allowing fix inhabitants to
each houfe, it would exceed five millions, which is probably mpch be-
low the real number.
Army.] Befides large contributions to the Britifh army, Ireland in
1780 raifed upwards of 40,000 volunteers, and has recently equipped a
confiderable militia and yeomanry. If we fuppofe every eighth perfon
capable of arms, Ireland might raife a force of more than 500,000 men.
Of mariners Ireland contributes a refpectable proportion, and man
naval officers from this part of the united kingdom have diftinguithed
themfelves by their courage and fkill,
Revenugs.] The public revenues of Ireland were gomputed by an
intelligent traveller * at about one million fterling, or 6s. 8d. a head,
when thofe of England ftood at 1/. 9s, This was in 1778, and great
changes have taken place fince. In the year ending sth January 1805,
according to an account laid before the Houfe of Commons, the fum
® Young's Tour in Iveland.
H 4 ‘valfed
¢
lo4 IRELAND.
raifed for Ireland exceeded ‘ten millions, of which 4,729,406/. was the
net produce of the ordinary revenue, and the reft was procured by a
loan. By the terms of the Union Ireland pays 2-17ths of the general
expences of the empire, and this fum, in the fame year, amounted to
508154741. |
PoxiticaAL Importance, &c.] The political importance and rela.
tions of Ireland are great, but intimately blended with thofe of England;
while her weftern pofition imparts fingular advantages in the commerce
with America and the Weft Indies.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.—Literature.—Education.—Univer.
Sities.—Cities and Towns.— Edifices.— Inland Navigation.— Manu-
faaures and Commerce.
; ; ; XNPENSER the poet, in his view of the
Manyens arp Customs ftate of Ireland, has preferved feveral
curious particulars concerning the national manners in the reign of
Elizabeth. As that work, though fanétioned by an illuftriqus name,
is little read, two fpecimens fhall be tranfcribed ; one concerning what
were then termed the Irifh horfe-boys, and the other giving fome account
of the bards. After defcribing the favage manners of the Gallow.
glaffes or infantry, and the Kernes or predatory cavalry, that venerable
writer thus proceeds ;
« And now next after the Irifh Kernes, methinks the Irith horfe.
boys would come well in order ; the ufe of which though neceflity -
times now be) do enforce, yet in the thorough reformation of that realm
they fhould be cut off. For the caufe why they are now to be permit.
ted, is want of convenient inns for lodging of travellers on horfeback,
and of oftlers to tend their horfes by the way. But when things hall
be reduced to a better pafs this needeth {pecially to be reformed. For
out of the fry of thefe rake. hell boys, growing up in knavery and vil.
lainy, are their kerns continually fuppled and maintained. For having
once been brought up an idle horfe-boy, he will never after fall to labour,
but is only made fit for the halter. And thefe alfo (the which is one
foul overfight ) are for the moft part bred up amongft the Englifhmen ;
of whom learning to fhoot in a piece, and Geing made acquainted with
all the trades of the Englifh, they are afterwards when they become
kern, made more fit to cut their throats. Next to this is another much
like, but much more lewd and difhoneft, and that is of their Carrows,
which is a kind of people that wander up and down to gentlemen’s
houfes, living only upon cards and dice; the which though they have
little or nothing of their own, yet will they play for much money ; which
if they win, they wafte moft lightly ; and if they lofe they pay as flen-
derly, but make recompence with one ftealth or another ; whofe onl
hurt is not that they themfelves are idle loffels, but that shooneh
gaming they draw athers to like lewdnefs and idlenefs. And to thefe
may be added another fort of like loofe fellows, which do pafs up and
down amongft gentlemen, by the name of jefters, but are (in d)
notable rogues, and partakers not only of many flealths, by fetting fort
other men’s goods to be ftolen, but alfo privy to many traiterous prac-
tices, and common carriers of news,” ’ Af
ter
After de
introduces
“ In wh
couragemer
fhare of a fl
the love of
forth fuch 1]
fhew there
virtue itfelf,
had lived all
his praife w
brought up |
and valiant «
won it with
under his mai
their lives, a
him in the dai
that he loved
where he cam
but lamentatic
lays of love,
finally, that h
he died that de
The manner
approach to th
able in Englan
Irifh fig ar
themfelves wit
of health and fj
produces the {t
confined to the
tain too many
the men and
howls, and oth
potatoes and b
mud. The fay
more properly ¢
tillatien Sonn’ ob
The Englith
Proper attentio
come, ere now,
a diale@ of the
by the Belgie ed
Lor d’s ’
Ar nathair ata
Deuntar do Thoi
tathambail sabbe
mbhaithmidne dar
Achd fair fin no
MITERATURK
antiquity ; for,
diate Y following
whofe works con
prefenting to the
ofthe human min
IRELAND. 105
After ape ie the diffolute life of an Irifh chieftain, Spencer thus
8:
jntroduces the bar
“«« In which if he fhall find any to praife him, and to give him en-
couragement, as thofe bardes and rithmers do, for little reward or a
fhare of a ftolen cow ; then waxeth he moft infolent, and half mad with
the love of himfelf, and his own lewd deeds. And as for words to fet
forth fuch lewdnefs it is not hard for them to give a goodly and painted
fhew thereunto, borrowed even from the praifes: which are proper to
virtue itfelf. As of a moft notorious thief and wicked outlaw, which
had lived all his life-time of fpoils and robberies, one of their bardes in
his praife will fay, that he’ was none of the idle milkfops that was
brought up by the fire fide, but that moft of his days he {pent in arms
and valiant enterprifes ; that: he did never eat his meat before he had
won it with his fword that he lay not all night flugging in a cabin
under his mantle, but ufed commonly to keep others waking, to defend
their lives, and did light his candle at the flames of their houfes to lead
him in the darknefs ; that the day was his night, and the night his day ;
that he loved not to belong wooing of wenches to yield to him, but
where he came he took per Forel the fpoil of other men’s love, and left
al but lamentations to their lovers ; that his mufic was not the’harps, nor
nf lays of love, but the cries of people, and clafhing of armour; and
e, finally, that he died not bewailed of many, but made many wail when
at he died that dearly bought his death.”
nt The manners of the fuperior claffes of people in Ireland now nearly
We approach to the Englith itandard, except that excefs in wine, unfafhion-
ole able in England, continues to prevail too much in the fifter ifland. The
Irifh gentry are alfo feldom addiéed to literature or the arts; but amufe
fee themfelves with hunting and other robuft exercifes. Hence an overflow
as of health and fpirits ; and the obfervation of an able writer, that Ireland
a produces the ftouteft men and the fineft women in Europe, mutt not be
ite confined to the inferior claffes. The common ree of Ireland ftill re-
k, tain too many features of national manners. funeral is joined by all
all the men and women of the vicinity, and is accompanied with dreadful
or howls, and other barbarous ceremonies. Their diet confifts chiefly of
vile potatoes and buttermilk ; and the rural cottage is a wretched hovel of
ing mud. The favourite liquor is ufquebaugh, or the water of life; but
ur, more properly the water of death, being an ardent and pernicious dif.
one tillation from corn,
ns The Englith language daily gains ground in Ireland, and might, if
ith proper attention had been beftowed on the national education, have be-
come, ere now, the general idiom of the country. The ancient Irifh is
a diale&t of the Celtic intermingled with many Gothic words, imported
by the Belgic colonies, by the Scandinavians, and by the Englifh.
The Lord’s prayer in the Irifh idiom runs in the <llowing terms:
4r nathair ata ar Neamh. Naombthar Hainm. Vigeadh do Rioghachd,
Deuntar do Thoil ar an Ttalamh mar do nithear ar Neamh. Ar naran la
tathambail sabbair dhuinna niu. Agus maith dhiinn ar Bhfiacha mar
mhaithmidne dar bhfeitheamhnuibb fein. Agus na léig finn a cathughadb,
Achd fair fin no Ole. Amen.
Literature) The literature of Ircland has a venerable claim to
antiquity ; for, as has been already mentioned, in the centuries imme-
diately following the introduction of Chriftianity many writers arofe,
whofe works conlift of lives of faints, and works of piety and difcipline,
prefenting to the inquifitive reader many fingular features of the biftory
ofthe human mind. The chief glory of the ancient Irih literature arifes
from
nea a ne ae
106 | IRELAND.
from the repulfion of the rays of fcience, after it had almoft perithed in
Europe, on the fall of the Roman Empire in the weft. The Anglo.
Saxons, in particular, derived their firft illumination from Ireland ; and
in Scotland literature continued to be the fpecial province of the Irith
clergy, till the thirteenth century.
UCATION.] In no quarter of the Britifh dominions has education
been conducted upon a more folid and rational plan than in Scotland;
and no where has it been fo much negleéted as in Ireland. It is to be
hoped that one confequence, and not the leaft important of the Union,
will be the introduction of parochial education into Ireland, a {ure mean
of preventing the ebullitions of ignorant difcontent.
Universiries.] With four archbifhoprics Ireland only poffeffes one
univerfity, that of Dublin* This inftsution was firft projeded by
archbifhop Leech, about the year 1311 but death having interrupted
his defign, it was revived and executed by Bicknor his fucceffor, and
— moderate profperity for about forty years, when the revenues
ailed.
In the reign of Elizabeth the univerfity was refounded by voluntary
contribution, under the aufpices of Sydney the Lord Deputy. It con.
fifts of a chancellor, vice-chancellor, provoft, vice-provoit, twenty-two
fellows, and thirteen proféffors of various f{eiences. The number of
ftudents is commonly about fix hundred, including feventy on the foun. :
cation. The building confifts of three quadrangles, and it contains a
library of fome account, and a printing-office.
At Maynooth there is a aval college for the education of young men
ef the Romifh church. There are many endowed {chools in Ireland,
of which that at Kilkenny is one of the beft. . The education of the
higher and middle ranks is as much attended to as in England, and
{ci:ools of all defcriptions are rapidly improving.
The Dublin Society for the improvement of Agriculture and Manu-
factures was inftituted by the efforts of the patriotic Dr. Samuel Madden
in 1731, being the earlieft of the kind now exifting in Europe +.
Cirizs AND Towns.] Dublin, the capital city of Ireland, feems to
be the Eblana of Ptolemy; but continued little known till the tenth
century, when it was meiitioned in the Saxon chronicle; and in the
beginning of the next century, we have coins of Canute ftruck at Dub.
lin. The fituation is delightful, in a bottom, beiween ranges of hills
on the fouth and north. It is pervaded by the river Liffy, and by fome
rivulets. ‘The inhabitants have been eftimated at 170,000; this capital
being juftly accounted the fecond in the Britifh dominions.
The circumference of Dublin may be about ten miles, being about
two miles and a quarter in length, and as much in breadth. The har.
bour is incommodious, being impeded with two banks of fand, called
the north and fouth bulls, which prevent fhips of large burden from
pafling the bar; but fome improvements have been made, and others
might be carried into execution. A mole has been conftructed four
snilee in length: and the quays are {pacious-and beautiful. There are
fix bridges, the chief of which is that called Carlifle. ‘The cattle was
founded about the year 1205, but it has been fince rebuilt, and is now
the town refidence of the viceroy, and the fanétuary of the public re-
cords. The parliament-houfe is a fuperb building, ereéted at confider-
able expence. The church of St. Patrick is the cathedral 5 a venerable
building, which was begun in the end of the twelfth century ; butt):
* Gongh’s Camden, ili. 555. + Young, i 210
duties of the harbou
fteeple,
itceple, the.
royal excha:
edifices muft
houfe ; and
and others,
Dublin he
ported from
In procee
cities of Irel,
‘acity of cor
ifland, and f
ranks among
tion, the lar
tallow, and
it was compu
annually kille
This city lies
but the marfh
ample {pace h:
Limerick y
fouth of Irela:
the river Shan
formerly fortit
been founded i
century to the
which confifts.
computed at ¢
lions +.
ea other ¢
graphical pro
Galwa as ;
trade with the
diftant from the
den: the numb
1s now Carried q
On Klew ba
but by fome f;
been improved,
whole weftern q
inhabitants are
town |}.
Londonder
for its prefent
river Foyle, ove
thoufand and fi
Belfatt on the
and may almoft
computed at 20
cloth, linen, w
* Mr. Young, v
t Gough's Camd
Beauf, 9,
i
IRELAND. 109
itceple, the higheft in the city, was not erected tillthe year 1370. The
royal exchange was completed in 1779; and, among other beautitul
edifices muft not be omitted that whirlpool of expenditure the cuftom-
houfe ; and the houfes of the Duke of Leinfter, the Earl of Charlemoyt,
and others.
Dublin has an’ ample fupply of native provifions; buf coals are im-
ported from Scotland and Cumberland.
In proceeding to give a brief account of the principal towns and
cities of Ireland, Conk and Limerick attraét the firft attention. Cork is
acity of confiderable importance, fituated on the fouth-eaft fide of the
ifland, and fuppofed to contain about 80,000 inhabitants. The haven
ranks among the moft capacious and fafe in Europe; and the exporta-
tion, the largeft in the fifter kingdom, confifts chiefly of beef, hides,
tallow, and butter. It isthe grand market of Irifh provifions ; and
jt was computed that not lefs than a hundred thoufand cattle were here
annually killed and falted, between the months of Auguft and January.
This city lies chiefly ina marfhy ifland, furrounded by the river Lee ;
but the marfhes on the oppofite fide of the river having been drained,
ample {pace has been given to the recent improvements *.
Limerick unites the fortunate fituation of being almoft central to the
fouth of Ireland, with an excellent haven formed by the long eftuary of
the river Shannon. The city is accounted the third in Ireland, and was
formerly fortified with great care. The cpifcopal fee is faid to have
been founded in the year 652. ‘The Danes held the city from the ninth
century to the eleventh. There are three bridges over the river, one of
which confifts of fourteen arches. ‘The number of inhabitants has been
computed at 50,000. The chief exports are beef and other provi-
fionst.
The other chief towns in Ireland fhall be briefly mentioned, in a geo-
graphical progrefs from the fouth towards the north.
Galway is atown of confiderable note, and carries on an extenfive
irade with the Weft Indies. ‘The port is commodious and fafe, but
diitant from the city, which can only be reached by veffels of {mall bur
den: the number of inhabitants is computed at 12,000. Greater trade
is now carried on in the bay of Sligo than at Galway t.
On Klew bay, in the centre of the weft of Ireland ftands Weftport,
but by fome fatality the advantages of the county of Mayo have not
been improved, nor are there any towns of much confequence upon the
whole weftern coaft. Sligo is, however, increafing in trade, and the
inhabitants are computed at 8000; and Caftlebar is alfo a profperous
town |}.
Londonderry is more remarkable for its ancient and military fame than
for its prefent commerce, though not unimportant. It ftands on the
river Foyle, over which a wooden bridge of fingular conftruétion, one
thoufand and fixty-eight feet in length, was throw# in 1791.
Belfaft on the north-eait, is in the centre of the linen manvfadures, .
and may almoft be regarded asa Scotifh colony. The inhabitants are
computed at 20,000. ‘I'he chief manufactures, cotton, cambric, fail-
cloth, linen, white-glafs, fugar, and earthen ware. -It maintains con-
* Mr. Young, vol. i 417, expreffes his aftonithment at the pepuloulnefs of Cork. The
duties of the harbour were, in £751, 62,0001. in 1779, 140.Co9gl,
t eee Camden, iii, 517.
Beauf. 9. Ibid, 72.
8 fiderable
¢
108 IRELAND.
fiderable intercourfe with the commercial city of Glafgow; and the grand
exports are to the Weft Indies and America.
Dundalk has alfo its manufa&ures of linen and muflin. Drogheda
imports fea-coal and goods from England, and exports confiderable
quantities of grain. It isa well built town on the Boyne: the inhabit.
ants on enumeration ‘in ‘1798, were found to exceed 15,000.
Towards the fouth-eaft, Wexford claims the firft notice, being re.
markable for its woollen manufactures; but the haven, though fpacious,
is not fufficiently deep for large veffels. ‘The inhabitants are gooo.
Waterford is a city of confiderable importance, fituated on the river
Suir*, and is fappofed to have been founded by the Danes. A noble
quay extends the whole length of the town, to which large veflels can
come ; and.a fine wooden bridge has been lately thrown over the Suir,
‘The population is about 35,000. The chief exports are beef, pork, ac.
pos linen. Packet boats fail regularly betwixt Waterford and Milford
aven.
The fea-ports of Dungarvon and Youghall are ‘loft in the fuperior
confequence of Cork; but Kinfale is a maritime arfenal, and is fuppofed
to contain 8000 fouls.
The chief towns in the interior, Armagh, Tuam, Cafhel, &c. &c. are
rather venerable from their ecclefiaftical antiquity than important in
themfelves. Kilkenny is, however, an exception; a handfome town,
with 16,000 inhabitants.
Epiricrs.] Many of the chief edifices of Ireland have been already
menticned in the defcription of Dublin. The cathedrals feldom afpire
to great praife of architecture ; and ‘the villas of the nobility generally
-yteld in {plendour to thofe of England, and even of Scotland.
Roaps.] Though the turnpike roads in Ireland be rather neglected,
yet the crofs roads are admirable; and Mr. Young has explained at
length the principles upon which they are conftructed +.
INLAND NAVIGATION.] The advantages derived by England from
inland navigation foon attraéted the attention of Tralaced ; and, not many
years after the example fet by the Duke of Bridgewater, a grand canal
was begun from the city of Dublin to the river Shannon, and was
actually carried on to the bog of Allen, at the expence of 77,000/.}.
But the engineer’s want of ability occafioned great errors in the original
plan and furvey ; and the work was interrupted in 1770. It has {ince
been completed to the Shannon, near Banagher, and to the Barrow at
Athy, fo.as to join Dublin by inland navigation with Limerick and
Waterford.
A canal is completed from the town of Newry to Lough Neagh, and
thence to the collieries of Drumglafs and Dungannon. But the original
intention to fupply Dublin with Irifh coals, has not fucceeded.
MAanuractures AND Commerce. ] Though we -find, as has been
already mentioned, that Ireland was diftinguifhed at an early period for
her manufacture of woollen ftuffs, yet the fpirit of ind&ftry made little
progrefs, and the chief Irifh manufactures are of recent inftitution. But
the linen manufacture was not unknown in Ireland in more early times,
as appears from the acts of parliament in the reigns of Henry VIII. and
Elizabeth, The annual produce of the linen manufacture was com-
# — That gentle Swire, that making way,
By fwect Clonmel, adorns rich Waterford,
SPENSER.
¢ Vol. ii, 154. ¢ Phillips, 330.
puted
puted at ab
1799, the \
25500,000/.
tion; and it
But a gr
abort 0!
afturage ren
: The peel
to 1791, am
the annual ay.
1799, It appe
Batain slow
Climate and §
Rivers.—L,
ralogy.—M;
CLIMATE. ] I
be very importa
the midille go;
FACE OF TH
it muft be rem
land, being moft
of hills, for th
and unimportant
Sort AND A¢
topics which ha
obferves, that t
tion, that of B
of the foil, fton
injury to the fert
appear at no gr
Limerick, Tipped
that of England,
lage is little und
clover being almd
by feveral crops
hocking fyftem (
let them to the r
) atly b this t
lar to Ireland; he
imey and on all
* Young, ii, 238,
| The Curragh of
thcep-walk of the toftd
Oung, 372, Sj
culture, Bi t7t. Si
: IRELAND. 109
puted at about 2,000,000/. fterling * 1780. In the year ending January
1799, the value of ,Irith linen exported to Great Britain exceeded
2,500,001. exclufive of that fent to America, and the home confump-
tion ; and it has fince confiderably increafed.
But a grand portion of the commerce of Ireland arifes from her
abundant ftores of black cattle, the moifture of the climate rendering the
pafturage remarkably luxuriant. ;
The average annual exports of Ireland for the feven years previous
to 1791) amount, according to Dr. Beaufort, to 4,357,000/. From,
the annual average taken of the three years preceding the 5th January,
1799) it appeared that the total value of exports from Ireland to Great
Britain alone was 5,612,689/.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and il — Face of the Country.— Soil and Agriculture.—
Rivers. —Lakes.—Mountains.—Forefts.— Botany.—Zoology.— Mine-
ralogy—Mineral Waters.—Natural Curiofities. — :
RELAND lying nearly in the fame parallel with Eng-
CumaTE. | I land, the difference of climate Garin be fuppofed a
be very important. The mean temperature of the north is about 48, of
the middle 50, and of the fouth 52 of Farenheit +.
Face or THE Country.] In confidering the face of the country
it muft be remembered, that Ireland forms a ftriking contraft to Scot-
land, being moftly level, fertile, and abundant in pafturage.: The chains’
of hills, for they can hardly afpire to the name of mountains, are few
and unimportant.
Sor. AND AcricuttureE.] The foil and agriculture of Ireland are
topics which have been ably illuftrated by an intelligent writer}. He’
obferves, that the quantity of the cultivated land exceeds in propor-
tion, that of England. The moft ftriking feature is the rocky nature
of the foil, ftones generally appearing on the furface, yet without any
injury to the fertility. The {tones are, for the moft part, calcareous, and
appear at no great depth, even in the moft flat and fertile parts, as
Limerick, Tipperary, and Meath. The climate being more moift than
that of England, the verdure never appears parched with heat ||. “Til-
lage is little underftood, even in the beft corn counties; turnips and
clover being almoft unknown:,the wheat fown upon fallow, and followed
by feveral crops of {pring corn. The farmers are oppreffed by the
hocking fyftem of middle men, who rent farms from the landlords, and
let them to the real occupiers ; who, as well as the proprietors, fuffer
gay this ftrange praétice. Lime ftone gravel is a manure pecu-
iar to Ireland; having, on uncultivated land, the fame wonderful effects as
lime, and on all foils it is beneficial§.
* Young, ii. 238. + 1 Tranf. R. 1A. vol.ii. } Young’s Tour, ii. 72.
| The Curragh of Kildare is a moft beautiful lawn, of about 4000 Englith acres, a
theep-walk of the tofteft turf, and moft delicious verdure. Young, ii. 7.
MN Young, 171. Since Mr. Young wrote there has been great improvement in agri.
culture,
9 Rivers. ]
IRELAND.
Rivers.} Among the chief rivers of Ireland muft firft be mentioned
the Shannon, which rifes from the lake of Allen, and pafling through
two other large lakes, Lough Ree and Lough Derg, afterwards ex.
tends below Limerick, into a vaft eftuary or firth, about fixty miles in
Iength, and from three to ten in breadth*, This noble river is, almoft
through its whole courfe, fo wide and deep asto afford eafy navigation,
Boate informs us that the celebrated Earl of Strafford defigned to re.
move a rock fix miles above Limerick, which forming a cataract, im.
Aedes the intercourfe between the upper and lower partss# It has fince
been deemed preferable to conneé the navigable parts of the river above
and below the catara&t byacanal. The whole courfe of the Shannon
may be computed at 170 miles.
The other rivers of Ireland have little of this majeftic charaéter.
The river Barrow rifes about forty miles tothe weft of Dublin, near
the fource of the Boyne; and, after a courfe of about one hundred
miles, enters the fea on the fouth-eait, having received the rivers Nour
and Suir, and formed the harbour of Waterford.
The Blackwater, another confiderable ftream in the fouth, enters the
fea at Youghall bay. ,
The Slaney forms the harbour of Wexford.
The Liffy is an inconfiderable ftream, ennobled by the capital.
The Boyne, after a courfe of about fifty miles, alfo enters the eaftern
fea ; the other rivers on the eaft, are fmall and unimportant.
In the north the Bann is a confiderable ftream, which pervades
Lough Neagh, and enters the fea after a courfe of about 70 miles,
By the canal of Newry it communicates with Carlingford bay ; and thus
infulates the north-eaft projection of Ireland.
The river Foyle paffes by Londonderry, and has a confiderable
eftuary called Lough Foyle. The Swilly is of confiderable length, but
forms a long eftuary.
On the N.W. Lough Erne iffues into Donnegal bay by a confiderable
ftream; but no other river of confequence occurs till we reach the
eftuary of the Shannon; nor are the rivers on the §.W. of much
note. é
The lakes of Ireland are numerous, and fome of them extenfive,
~The term fough correfponding with the Scotith /och, is fometimes applied
to an eftuary, or to an inlet of the fea, fuch as the Swilly, the Foyle,
that of Strangford in Down, &c. The chief lake of freth water is that
of Erne, which exceeds thirty Britith miles in length, and twelve in its
greateft breadth; it is divided by a narrow ouclet from the fouthern
part into the northern, of about four miles in length. ,
Next in magnitude is Neagh, about twenty-two miles in length, and
twelve in breadth. Both thefe lakes are ftudded with {mall iflands; and
the latter is faid to poffefs a petrifying quality.
The lake of Corrib, in the county of Galway, is about twenty miles
in length, and from two to five wide. Thofe of Ree and Derg are
lefs confiderable in fize ; and there is a {maller lake alfo named Derg,
in the N. W. which was remarkable in fuperftitious times for a little
' ifland, containing what was called the purgatory of St. Patrick.
Among the lakes of the fecond magnitude muft be firft named the
beautiful and interefting Lough of Killarney, in the S. W. abounding
with romantic views, and fringed with the arbutus, no where elfe a native
of the Britifh dominions. This is almoft the only lake in the fouth of
11¢
¥ Boate, p 36
Ireland;
Ireland ; anc
N. W. aret
That of All
into which t}
welt are two |
of Currafin |
Mountary
merous nor iy
the N. E. to
hills generally
fiderable heig!
is called the |
the feaa AL
and paffes to
the north of ¢]
Galtee mounta
which bend {
alfo appears tc
may be faid t
fter.
In Leinfter
on the S. W.
ftyled the Kip
this group is a
in breadth.
In Ulfter is g
S. E. corner of
the height of
inguage Sliebh,
of Down; and fe
On the north-w
togher. Sliebh
Foyl, whence of
The eattern D
mountains, excey
peninfula, is one
other names may
afolitary hill o
ifland. That ro)
2666 feet ; the
and the Twelve
with others to th
OREsTs, ]
and Boate has |
diminithed fince t
tillage, and partl
ditt, Another
in the iton manu
divides them inta
of fterility, "The
The bogs he fub
the water being
I RELAND. ri
Ireland ; and the obfervations may be extended to the eaft. On the
N. W. are the lakes of Eafk, Trierty, Melvin, Macnean, and Gill.
That of Allen, as already mentioned, is a chief fource of the Shannon,
into which the Gara and Key alfo pour their waters. Further to the |
weft are two confiderable lakes, the Conn and the Mafk ; nor muft thofe
of Currafin be forgotten. ,
Mountains.] The mountainous chains in Ireland are neither nu-
merous nor important ; but an upland ridge divides the country from
the N. E. to the S. W. giving birth to feveral of the rivers. The Irifh
hills generally form fhort lines, or detached groups. One group of con-
fiderable height appears on the weft and fouth of Lough-Leane, or what
js called the lake of Killarney : of thefe Mangerton 1s 2500 feet above
the fea. A {mall line of hills extends on the north-weft of Bantry-bay,
and paffes to the eaft, under the name of the Shehy mountains*. To
the north of this is the line of Slieblogher and Nagles, followed by the
d Galtee mountains ; and towards the eaft, are thofe of Knochmeledown,
. which bend fouthward towards the bay of Dungarvin. A {mall chain
alfo appears to the fouth of Tralee, which, with a group to the N. E.
id may be faid to complete the enumeration of the mountains of Mune
fter.
In Leinfter is the mountain of Leinfter, the line of Sliebh-bloom
on the S. W. and a confiderable group to the fouth of Dublin,
be ftyled the Kippure mountains, or thofe of Wicklow. The extent of
tes this cade is about thirty Englifh miles in length, by about twelve
in breadth.
~ In Ulfter is a {mall group, called the mountains of Mourne, in the
" §, E. corner of the province: one of them, Donard, is faid to be about
bl the height of Mangerton, The hills of Sliebhcroob (in the Irifh
bet language /fiebh, fignifies a mountain), form the centre of the county
sa of Down; and feveral hills are {fprinkled over the eaftern half of Antrim.
Able On the north-weft of Loughneagh are thofe of Sliebhgallan and Carn-
‘she togher. Sliebh Snaght is a confiderable mountain N. W. of Lough
, Foyl, whence other lines and groups extend down to Lough Erne.
ai The eaftern part of Connaught prefents numerous marfhes, but few
mountains, except thofe of Baughta on the fouth. ‘The extreme weftern
ied peninfula, is one of the moft mountainous regions in Ireland. Among
le other names may be mentioned, Mount Nephin, in the county of Mayo,
vat afolitary hill of 2640 fest, and one of the moft confiderable in the
ifland, That of Croagh Patrick, on the S.E. of Clewbay, a cone of
2666 feet; the Fernamoor mountains to the weft of Lough Mafk;
and the Twelve Pins, a line of fo many fmall peaks in Ballinah‘nch ;
with others to the fouth of Lough Corrib. .
Forests.] Scarcely the femblance of a foreft remains in Ireland ;
and Boate has long fince obferved, -that the woods have been greatly
diminifhed fince the entrance of the Englith, partly from the extenfion of
tillage, and partly from the neceffity of opening up the receffes of ban.
ditt. Another great caufe was, the confumption in domeltic fuel, and
in the iton manufacture, the coal mines not having been explored.
Bocs.] The cog of the forefts is unhappily ufurped by the moors
or bogs, which form a remarkable feature of the country. Boate
divides them into feveral genera and fpecies, forming an elaborate fcale
of fterility. The heaths are generally confined to the mountains,
The bogs he fub-divides into four defcriptions: 1. The grafly, in which
the water being concealed by herbage, they become extremely perilous
® Beavfort’s Memoir of a Map of Ireland.
te
IRELAND.
to travellers: fome of thefe are dry in the fummer. 2. The pools of
water and mire. 3. What he terms haflocky bogs, or thallow lakes
ftudded with tufts of rufhes, which are chiefly found in the province of
Leinfter, efpecially in King’s and Queen’s counties. 4. The peat
moors. Ornaments of gold, and other relics of antiquity, have, from
time to time, been difcovered in the bogs at great acta and there are
other indications that they are of comparatively recent formation *, [ft
is hoped that the hand of induftry will in time, remove many of thefe
blemithes ; and one of the greateft improvements of modern agriculture
is that of reclaiming peat moors, by means of calcareous manure.
The Irifh bogs lifter from the Englifh moraffes in being rarely level,
but rifing into hills; and there is a bog in Donnegal that is a perfeg
{cenery of hill and dale. The plants are heath, with fome bog myrtle,
and a little fedgy grafs.
Borany.] ‘The ftudy of botany has been lefs cultivated here than in
any other part of the united empire ; and the neighbourhood of Dublin,
which has been the beft explored, affords no rare, and few chara@eriftic
plants.. From the general mildnefs of the climate, the extenfive tras
of bog, andthe vaft mountainous ranges that interfeét the country, and
afford capacious bafons for its numerous lakes, it is obvious that the
flora of Ireland, when complete, will probably contain feveral {pecies
that are itrangers to the reft of the Britifh iflands.. On the mountains
of Sligo is found the Saxifraga umbrofa, (known in our gardens by the
name of London pride,) andthe romantic fcenery of Killarney in the
county of Kerry, 1s the moft northern haditat of the Arbutus Unedo: the
heaths abound with the ftately Erica Daboeci, and the mountain avens,
bear-berry, with other Alpine plants, already noticed in the botany of
Scotland, expand their neglected bloffoms, and trail their glowing fef.
toons of cluitered berries, unnoticed amidft the wild folitude of their
rocky faftneffes.
Zoo.oecy. ]
that not many varieties fhould be found between the Irifh anima
thofe in England.
The Irifh horfes, called hobbys, are of a {mall breed, remarkable for
the gentleness of their pace. é
The Irith hound is one of the nobleft animals of the clafs, and formerly
celebrated for his fize and vigour, but the breed is now almoft extina.
Bede has commemorated the praife of Ireland for abundance of
honey, and of milk, fo that the country feems, even in early times, te
have abounded in cattle. He alfo mentions the numerous herds of
deer, which animal the progrefs of cultivation has now rendered rare. .In
various parts of Ireland are dug up enormous horns, probably belongin
to a {pecies of deer now extinct. Some of thefe horns have been found
of the extent of fourteen feet from tipto tip, furnifhad with brow
antlers, and weighing three hundred pounds ; the whole fkeleton is fre-
quently found with them. It is fuppofed that the animal muft have been
about twelve feet high.
112 .
In paffing to the zoology of Ireland it may be expesisd
s and
MrineRALOGY.] The miveralogy of Ireland has been recently enno- |
bled by the difcovery of confiderable maffes of native gold in the couaty
ef Wicklow, to, the fouth of Dublin. Thefe were found in a brook,
running weft to eaft, to the river of Avonmore, where it is joined by
the river Aghran; andon a declivity of the mountain called Croughan
Kinfhelly, about feven Englifh miles weft of Arklow, and fix fouth-weft
* See Dr. Campbell's Philofophical Survey of the South of Ireland, fometimes falfely
afcribed to Dr. Wilkinfon; to whom it is dedicated,. oN F
0
of the noted
lately died in
through his h
for many Yea
guineas. It
mafly vein has
‘benefit the co
riched and imy
tion, if fuch, ¢
nature,
The filver |
mentions a mj
wrought in {
filver from this
was found near
county of Tir
laft were of ty
gliftering 5 the
marl The w
Charles I,
Copper has
Muccrofs, in K
One of the c
which were little
The beds of ,
been’ explored ¢
Caftlecomer, is
which has yet bee
One of the me
and others have }
various kinds, is
Natura cuy
would, in ancie
Patrick, a mifer!
ney attraéts more’
is about ten miles
into three parts, ¢
rounded by an 4
verdure iscontraft
let, fruit and fnow
cafcades, and ot
fene +. The j
fame for the anna
What is called
mott remarkable ¢
4 fimilar produ@ti
till within thefe t
the Giant’s Catife
8 that given b
1693. This fury
miles N.E. from
Pitous, and from
tent, The part e
» Philof,
b of
5, to
B of
In
prin
a
prow
fre-
been
nno« |
uaty
ook,
ay
an
cary
falfely
of
of the noted copper mines of ‘Cronebane*. It is faid that a jeweller, who
jately died in Dublin, often declared, that gold from that fpot had paffed
through his hands to the value of 30,000l., the fecret a retained
for many years, and fome roe weighing to the amount of 70 or So
guineas. It is now worked for government, and it is faid that a very
mafly vein has been recently difcovered, which, it is hoped, will greatly
‘penefit the country ; for mines have, in all ages, ancient and modern, en«
riched and improved the countries where they were found, apd the excep
tion, if fuch, of Spanifh America is to be afhgned to caufes of a different
natures
The filver found in the Irifh mines deferves more attention. Boate
mentions a mine of this metal, intermingled with lead, which was
wrought in the county of Antrim, ‘and yielded a pound of pure
filver from thirty pounds of lead. Another, lefs productive of filver,
was found near the harbour of Sligo, in Connaught 3 and athird in the
county of Tipperary, twelve miles ftom Limerick. The ores of this
lat were of two kinds, moft generally of a reddifh colour, hard, and
gliftering 5 the other, which was the richeft in filver, refembled a blue
marl. ‘The works were deftroyed in the Irifh infurreétions under
Charles I. .
Copper has been recently found in the county of Wicklow, and at
Muccrofs, in Kerry. - :
One of the chief mineral productions of Ireland is iron, the mines of
which were little known till the time.of Elizabeth.
The beds of coal to be feen in various regions of Ireland have not yet -
been’ explored to their proper extent. That of Kilkenny, found at
Caftlecomer, is defervedly celebrated among mineraldgifts as the pureft
which has yet been traced in any quarter of the globe.
One of the moft beautiful marbles of Treland is found near Kilkenny,
and others have been difcovered in various parts of the ifland. Slate, of
various kinds, is alfo abundant
NaTuRAL curiositiss.] Among the natural curiofities of Ireland
would, in ancient times, have been mentioned the purgatory of St.
Patrick, a miferable monkifh delufion. At prefent the lake of Killar-
ney attracts more deferved devotion, This picturefque expanfe of water
is about ten miles in length, and from one to feven in breadth ; it is divided
into three parts, called the upper, lower, and Muckrufs lakes and is fur-
rounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, clothed with trees, whofe
verdure iscontrafted with intervening rocks. The arbutus, withits fcar+
let, fruit and {nowy bloffoms, here vegetates in great luxuriance. Nor are
cafcades, and other features of rural beauty, wanting to complete the
fcene +. The ifle of Innisfallen is not only romantic, but of venerable
fame for the annals there written.
What is called the Giant's Caufey mutt be diftinguithed among the
molt temarkable of the curiofities of Ireland. When we recolle& that
afimilar produétion, the celebrated ifland of Staffa, remained unnoticed
till within thefe thirty years ; we fhall be the lefs inclined to wonder that
the Giant’s Catifey is an obje& of recent obfervation. The firft account
is that given by Sir R. Buckley, in a letter to Dodtor Lifter,
1693. ‘This furprifing collection of bafaltic pillars is about eight
miles N.E. from“Coleraine. ‘The adjacent coaft is verdant, but preci
pitous, and from it the Caufey projects into the fea, to ap unknown ex-
tent. ‘The part explored is about 600 feet in length; the breadth from
* Philof, Tranf. 1797. + Young, i, 444, &e.
* 440
IRELAND.
1240 to 1203 the height from 16 to 36 feet above the level of the
itrand. Tt confiftsof many thoufand pillars, moftly in a vertical pofition ;
fome of them high, others broken, and, for a confiderable fpace, of By
equal height, fo'as to form a pavement. They are clofely compacted to.
ether ; though the form be various, trigonal, tetragonal, pentagonal,
ee aa heptagonal; the moft numerous are the pentagonal. The
pillars are rarely compofed of on:: entire piece, but miphie confift of fhort
or long jeints, either plain or alternately concave and convex. They
are from 15 to 24 inches, or more, in diameter, ‘Towards the N.E,
is what is called the Organ, in the fide of a hill, conlifting of fifiy
pillars; that in the middle is 4o feet high, the others gradually diminifh.
ing. Similar pillars, are alfo found a mile and a half inland, four miles
to the W. of the Giant’s Caufey, and at the capes of Bengore and
Fairhead.
The bafalt of the Giant’s Caufey is of a very compact texture, and
the angles of the pillars have preferved their fharpnefs, though expofed
to the ator perhaps two or three thoufand years *. The fame fhore alfy
prefents horizontal and bending pillars, like thofe of Staffa ; the attendant
minerals are zeolite in the irregular bafalt, fteatite, and bits of agate, red
ochre, and iron ore. .
' IRISH ISLES.
The few and fmall ifles around Ireland are unimportant, but muft
not be wholly omitted. To the N.E. of Dublin is Lambey, a {mall ifland
already mentioned ; and at the S.E. extremity of Ireland appear the rocks
called Tathard and the Saltee ifles. At the fouthern extremity is the ifle
of Clare, about three miles and a half in length, and more remarkable.
for its fouthern promontory called Cape Clear, than for any other objed.
Turning to the. N.W. are the ifle of Durfey, the Hog iflands, and the
Skelligs ; to the north of the latter is Valentia, off the coatt of Kerry,
which is followed by the Blafkets, or Ferriter iflands.. The fouth Arran
iflands lie at the mouth of the noble bay of Galway, and are remarkable
for a fmall kind of oats without any hufk, and for large calves ; the chief
is near feven miles in length. A number of fmall iMlands encircle the coatt,
which projects furthelt into the Atlantic, fuch as Garomna, Littermore,
Minith, Inifney ; and further to the N.W. Dunloghan, Omey, Crua, Xc.
Bofin was famous in the days of monattic fanétity, and has retained its
ancient appellation. ‘To the N_E. are the Inifture, and another Clare at
the mouth of Clew bay 5 at the bottom of which isa numerous group of
fmall iflands. ‘Io the north is Achil, the largett of the Irifh ifles, being
ahout twelve miles long by ten broad. It is feparated from the couait ot
Mayo by a narrow channel, but no minute defcription of it has appeared.
Inifmurry is a fmall ifle at the mouth of the bay of Donegal ; and no
other ifles worth mention appear till we arrive at the northern iflands of
Arran, off the coait'of Donegal. The N.W. extremity of Ireland is
marked by Tory ifle; and returning towards the eaft, we meet with Inif-
trahull ; and after an equal dillance, Rachlin, the Racina of Ptolemy, and
wemorable as the retreat of Robert I. of Scotland, :
* Kirwan Min, i, 232.
FRANCE,
miles
e and
ey and
cpofed
re alfo
endant
te, red
it mutt
ll ifland
e rocks
the ifle
arkable.
objed.
and the
Kerry,
» Arran
rarkable
e chief
he coatt,
ermore,
rua, &e.
ained its
Clare at
roup ot
s, being
coalt ot
ppeared.
; and no
Klands of
{relaad is
ath nif’
my, and
~ =
ba
net Sati ik
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FRANCE x
IENNE Sox Jt
Veyi ° RI NNE ay r| evar — Spiced>
French Leagues.
Licks dencaccade bd
Linglich Miles,
hs lk ix, A
La
SS zurich
a ,
4G 46,
a
+ N Yn cad
aes. —Sowhemyton —_
Names—LExten
me
NAMES. J } 2
though the fup
cclipfed their d
Chrift ; accordi
from Tonia for
flourifhed a cen
ledge of Gaul, a
ancient inhabitar
have learned tha
fouthern parts o!
who entered that
foon afterwards
mainder of this 1,
conqueft of Juli
of the Celts, but
after the fall of
or France, becau
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S i WORtH. COs) InLe ) er eg a
= . XN” Lovdeae,: ao ar
4 " 1A... » “f |
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a a ¥:
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niatiges
fart nay \
v
VeEND ER \Dwo XTENT.] 7
Fogtemay computed at 148
fSEwn
rs be 26,000,000, v
CXiort ‘
boundaries were,
diterranean and P
on the north, th
Channel. It ext
latitude ; from ab
the sth on the e
and in breadth W
ORIGINAL Pop
ably illuftrated by
to whom no e~teri
but on the S.W. ¢
and on the N.E, tl
had feized on a th
thic language and
fufed themfelves ix
colonies be forgot
diffufed the Latin
is F gpa tha
Briti trie pro
to the diftri@
>
rk ade A,
(115)
t
FRANCE.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
°
Names. —Lxtent.— Boundaries.—Original Po ulation. Progrefive Geogras
phy.—Hiftorical Epochs and Antiquities. »
F 7}RANCE, defervedly celebrated amongft the moft eminent
Names: J Europegn ftates, was probably known to the Pheenicians,
though the fuperior fame of the metallic riches of Spain have almoft
eclipfed their difcovery of Gaul. In the year 600 before the birth of
Chrift ; according’to the chronology of Uther, the Phuczans failing
from Ionia founded Maffilia, or Marfeilles; yet Herodotus, who
flourifhed a century and a half after that period, fhews fo little know-
ledge of Gaul, as to fuppofe that the Danube arofe in the Pyrenees. The
ancient inhabitants were the Celts, of whom even Ariftotle feems only to
have learned that they inhabited the region above Iberia or Spain. he
fouthern parts of Gaul became known at an early period to the Romans,
who entered that region about 120 years before the Chriftian epoch,. and
{oon afterwards founded the province termed Gallia Bracata ; but the re-
mainder of this large and fertile country was referved for the difcovery and
conqueft of Julius Cefar. The ancients fometimes ftyled it the country
of the Celts, but the only general name feems to have been Gallia, which,
after the fall of the Roman empire, was fupplanted by that of Francia,
or France, becaufe it was fubdued and poffeffed by the Franks, an affem-
blage of tribes from lower Germany. é
firents} The extent of France, before the recent acquifitions, was
computed at 148,840 fquare miles ; and fuppofing the then pemenns to
be 26,000,000, would render 174 inhabitants to each mile fquare. The
boundaries were, on the weft, the Atlantic ocean ; on the fouth the Me-
diterranean and Pyrenees : on the E. Savoy, Swifferland, and Germany ;
on the north, the Auftrian Netherlands, the German fea, and Englith
Channel. It extends from about the 42d to near the s1it degree of N.
latitude ; from about the 7th degree of longitude weit from Paris to about
the sth on the eaft; being in length N. to S. about 600 Britifh miles,
and in breadth W. to E. about 560.
ORIGINAL PoPULATION.] ‘The original population of Gaul has been
ably illuftrated by many authors. The primitive inhabitants were the Celts,
to whom no eterior people can be traced in the weftern regions of Europe ;
but on the S.W. the Aquitani, of African defcent, had pafled from Spain ;
and on the N.E. the warlike German tribes, known by the name of Belgw,
had feized on a third part of the country,+ where they introduced the Go.
thic language and manners. On the S, alfo the German Gauls had dif-
fufed themfelves into what was called Gallia Bracata : nor mutt the Greek,
colonies be forgotten: The folidity and duration of the Roman conquefts
diffufed the Latin language through allranks, Onthe N.W, extremity,
it is pa that there were remains of the ancient Celts, before the
Britith colony proceeded there in the fifth century, and imparted a name
to the diltridt,
12 PROGRESSIVE
sisi
FRANCE.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAFHY.] The Romans firft illuftrated the geogra
phy of Gaul, which they confidered as divided into three chief renin,
the Celtic, the Belgic, and Aquitanic ; the Provincia Bracata being almoft
forgotten in the extent of their fubfequent conquetts. Thefe regions were
again fub-divided into no lefs than feventeen provinces. On the fubver.
fion of the Roman power, new names and divifions fucceeded, as Flan.
dria, Lotharingia, Neullria, Burgundia, Vafconia, &c.*; while Aqui-
tania and Provincia remained ancient names, though not within ancient
beundaries. Thefe were fucceeded by divifions yet more modern, which
in recent times, have been fupplanted by more minute departments,
Ancient Pr
Bourgogne, |
Franche-Com
Ancient Provinces. Departments. Chief Towns.. Be
oitou.
Flandre Frangoife. Nord. Bille.
Artois. he de Calais. pica
Picardie.. omme. niens,
Seine Inférieure.. Rouen. Marchi
Calvados, Caen.
Normandie. Manche, Coutances.
Orne. Alengon. Limofin.
Eure. Evreux.
Seine. Paris. _ Bourbonnois,
Seine and Oife. Verfailles.. Saintonge, co
Ifle de France. Oife. Beauvais. Aunis,
: Aifne. Laon. Angoumoie,
{ Seine and Marne. §Melun. comprifing p
Marne. Chalons-fur-Marne, Saintonge,
Champagne, fees, Mitr assert
‘Haute Marne. Chammont. Lyonnois
Meufe. Bar-fur-Ornain.. Foret ant Beau
+ hesnaine Mofelle. Metz. ey
icici Meurthe. Nancy. Dauphing,
\ ofges.. Epinal.
Haut-Rhin. Colmar.
Alface. Bas-Rhin. Strafbourg.
Ifle and Vilaine. * Rennes.
Cétes-du-Nord, St. Brieux. Guyenne, comy
Bretagne. Finifterre. Quimper. hending Gafcc
Morbihan. * Vannes.
Loire Inférieure. Nantes.
, Sarthe. Le Mans.:
Maine and Perche. Mayenne. Laval. Béarn.
Anjou. Mayenne and Loire. Angers. Comté-de-Foix,
Touraine. Indre and Loire. Tours. Rouffillon.
Loiret. Orléans.
Orléanois. Eure and Loire. Chartres.
at and Cher, oan
: ‘Indre. Ateauroux,
Berri. Cher. Bourges, 's anguedoc,
Nivernois. Niévre. Nevers.
* D’Anville, Etats formés en Europe.
‘Anekt* Pr ovence,
Ancient Provinces.
Dourgogne.
Franche-Compté.
Poitou.
Marchi
Limofin.
Bourbonnois.
Aunis.
FRANCE.
Departments.
Saéne and Loire. .
Ain,
Haute-Sadne.
Des Sevres.
Vienne.
Limolin.
Creuze.
Haute-Vienne, .
comprifing part of ©
Corréze,
comprifing part of
Upper-Vienne.
Allier.
Saintonge, comp eae Charente-Inféi¢eure.
Angoumois,
comprifing part of } Charente.
Saintonge.
Auvergne.
Lyonnois,
Forét and Beaujolois.
Dauphiné,
Guyenne, compres
hending Gafcogne.
Béarn.
Comté-de-Foix,
Rouffillon.
ganguedes,
Provence,
Puy-de-déme.
Cantal.
Rhdne.
Loire.
Ifére.
Hautes-Alpes.
Dréme.
Dordogne.
Gironde.
Lot and Garonne.
Lot.
Aveyron.
Gers.
Landes.
Hautes Pyrénées.
Baffes-Pyrénées,
Arriege.
Pyrénées-Orientales,
aute-Garonne.
Aude. ‘
Tarn.
Garde.
Lozere,
Ardéche.
Haute-Loire,
Héraut.
Bouches-du-Rhone,
Baffes-Alpes,
Var.
13
117
Chief Towns
Auxerre.
Dijon.
Macon.
Bourg.
Vefoul.
Befancon. .
Lons-le-Saunier,
Fontenay-le-Peupte.
Niort.
Poitiers.
Limgge.
Guéret,
Tulle. °
Moulins.
Gaintes,
Angouleme,
Clermont.
St. Flour,
Lyon.
Montbrifon.
Grenoble.
Gap.
Valence.
Perigueux.
Bordeaux.
Agen.
Cahors.
Rhodez.
Auch.
Mont-de- Marfan,
Tarbe.
Pau.
ery
erpignan.
Torloate.
Carcaffonne.
Caftres.
imes.
Mende.
Privas.
Le Puy.
Montpellier,
Aix.
Digne.
Toulon.
Ancient
FRANCE.
Ancient
Ancient Provinces. Departments. Chief Towns.
; ‘Part of the
Golo. Baftia. fhoprick of
Corfica. | Liamone. Ajaccio. of the D
Juliers, of
Gelderland
Cleves, Me
dern departments of old France ; the recent
The above are the mode p opie ten
conquetts have alfo been moulded to a fimilar form, under the name of ree
united departments ; thefe are the following : Gaiets '
. Larouge,
Ancient Nambs. Re-united Departments. Chief Towns, ke.
*
Territory of Avig- ) vauclufe, with the : STORICAL
non, county © boc iu: Rhone. "BPO" bie inthe fi
Venaiflin. 1, The primit
Diftri& of Apt.. Mont Blanc. Chambery. Aquitani and Bel
; Savoy. ; The Maritime Alps. Nice. 2. The faint n
County of Nice. Mont Terrible. Porentruy. blifhment of the I
Bifhoprick of Bale. 3, The comple
Auftrian Hainaut. Jemmapes. Mons. great general ; a
Weftern part of Lys, <. Bruges. theatre under the ¢
Autftrian Flanders. 4. The final cc
Eaftern part of Flan-U gecaut, Gand. about the year 4
ders. faith, five years a
Eaftern part of Bra-l peux Nethes Anvers. 5. The obfcure
bant. being frequently f
Southern part of Bra- Dyle. Bruxelles. middle of the eigt
ee ; : 6. The Carlovi
Part of the country fe. he and was followed
of Liege, and © at cod Maettricht. Charlemagne, wh
Gelderland. fplendour, having
Part of the countries of } where he became
Liege, and of Lim- | Lié ttyled the Germa
bourg, with the prin- Ourthe. 1ege. defcendants for ne
cipalities of Strave- 7. The acceffio
lo and Malmedi. ‘8. The crufade
County of Namur. Sambre and Meufe, Namur. g. The wars wi
Duchy of Luxem- 7 Forets, Luxemburgh. and its deliverance
bour ttyled the Vi&toric
to. The reign ¢
were left after the
abfolute monarchy
11. The reign ¢
during which the |
more civilized peo)
Part of the Archbi- i ofelle, | Coblentz.
thoprick of Tréves. } Rhine and Mofe
Part of en
fhoprick of Lreves, ‘ réves,
pon of the Duchy Sarre *
of Deux Ponta.
Part of the ancient
Archbifhoprick of
* The recent acqu
Mayeace, and of $ Mont Tonnere, Mayence. Ash ie not to men
e denne and cont lic
the Duchy of Deux qrogrephes ontolic
Ponts,
FRANCE.
Ancient Names. Re-united Departments. Chief Towns.
‘Part of the Archbi-
fhoprick niger
of the Duc of ; ;
Juliers, of Proffian Roer, Aix-la-Chapelle.
Gelderland, of
Cleves, Meurs, &c.
Of the Territory of
Geneva, of the
Dillri&ts of Gex, > Leman. Genéve *.
Larouge, Thonon,
&e.
!
Historica Erocus.] The chief hiftorical epochs of France may be
arranged in the following order : '
1, The primitive population of the Celts, arid the conquefts of the
Aquitani and Belge.
2, The faint notices of the ancients concerning Gaul, from the efta-
blitment of the Phoczan colony at Marfeilles, to the conqueft by Cefar.
3. The complete difclofure of the country to the learned world by that
great general; and the various revolutions and events of which it was the
theatre under the domination of the Romans.
4. The final conqueft of the country by the Franks under Clovis,
about the year 490, and the converfion of the Franks to the Chrittian
faith, five years after that period.
5. The obfcure and diltracted hiftory of the Merovingian race, (Francé
being frequently fplit into {mall kingdoms), till its final extin¢tion in the
middle of the eighth century.
6. The Carlovingian race, which afcended the throne in the year 752,
and was followed, twenty years afterwards, by the celebrated reign of
Charlemagne, who carried the power of France to the utmoft extent and
fplendour, having, in particular, fubdued the greateft part of Germany,
where he became the founder and firft fovereign of what has fince been
tyled the German Empire, A.D. 800, and which remained with his
defcendants for near a century.
7 The acceffion of the houfe of Capet inthe year 987,
‘8. The crufades, in which the French bore the chief fway,
9. The wars with England. The acquifition of France by Henry V.,
and its deliverance by che maid of Orleans, or rather by Charles VII.,
tyled the Viétorious.
10. The reign of Louis XI., who, crufhing fuch powerful princes as
were left after the Englifh fhock, may be regarded as the father of the
abfolute monarchy.
11. The reign of Francis I., called the father of the arts and letters,
during which the French, who had been regarded as barbarians by the
more civilized people of Italy, began, on the contrary, to be diftinguifhed
* The recent acquifitions of France, among which muft be ehiefly placed the United
Provinces, not to mention the new and fubfervient kingdoms and principalities, remain (0
be ow and confolidated by a general peace, before they van be admitted into clatlical
geography, °
“14 . by
FRANCE.
by fuperior refinement. This is alfo the firft epoch of a ftanding army
in Europe.
12. The inteftine commotions with the proteftants, and maffacre of St,
Barthelemy.
13. The reign of Henry [V.
14. That of Louis XIV., too much extolled by the French, and too
much degraded by other nations.
15. The recent revolution which has aftonifhed Europe, and which, in
the fingularity and importance of the events, rivals the pages of ancient
hiftory.
Arvroviniest Several ancient monuments exift in France which ara
afcribed to the firit epoch. ‘The Greek colony at Marieilles feems to
have imparted fome degree of civilization to the country, and the rude
Gallic coins are evidently an imitation of the Grecian model *,
The Roman antiquities in France are numerous, and fome of them
in excellent prefervation. ‘Thofe at Nifmes are particularly celebrated,
confifting chiefly of an amphitheatre, and the temple called La Maifon
Carre.
The other periods of French antiquity have been ably illuftrated by the
learned work of Montfaucon; and the difclofure of the grave of Childeric,
near Tournay, in the laft century, prefented fome of the moft curious
fragments. In an old tower of St. Germain des Prés are reprefentations
of feveral of the firft monarchs of the Franks, and many of their effigies
were preferved on their tombs at St. Dennis, and other, places, till the
late revolution.
The monuments of the Carlovingian race are yet more numerous, and
Roman mofaics have illuttrated the fame Of Charlemagne. OF the later
periods the monuments are fo numerous, that it would be vain to attempt
to enumerate them, One of the moit fingular is the fuit of tapettry,
which was preferved in the cathedral church of Bayeux, in Normandy,
reprefenting the beginning and termination of the grand conteft between
William and Harold, which-led to the conquett of England by the Nor.
mans. It is faid to have been the work of Matilda, wife of William;
and bears every mark of that remote antiquity,
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Ecclefiafic Geography. — Government. — Laws.— Population —
Colonies. — Army.—Navy.— Revenues—Political Importance and Rela»
tions.
HE religion of France is the Roman Catholic; but
Revicioy.] T the Gallican church, fince its re-eftablifl..nent by Bo-
naparte, has been confiderably modified, and rendered wholly independent
on Roman influence.
~ Eccnesiastic GEOGRAPHY. ] The general divifion into archbifhopricks
* In Picardy, and other parts poffeffed by the Belge, there are circles, and other monu-
ments of the kind which we call druidic. Near the town of Carnac, on the coaft of
Vannes, in Bretagne, there is a grand monument of this kind, far exceeding Stonehenge,
if the account be not exaggerated, which fays, that there are about 4000 ftvnes, many as
bigh as 16 or 2Q feet, difpofed in the form of a oes of eleven rows,
and
and bifhopricks 4
revenues and po
{ufficient to rend
GOVERNMENT
bility fince the f
ued to introduc
The prefent ft
tially derived fro
obfervation *.
« The executi
of the emperor,
« The new law
fifty members, cd
afterwards debaté
before the legiflat
out any difcuffio
« The govern
of difcuffion it
« The Legiflas
vear, and the ne
lits formed by tl
members are for
chofen by the ele
felyes, elected b
dd Englith tyth
the prelident of
the Erstatore and
the electoral colle
ror; who can alfc
by himfelf, and ty
“ The member:
tion belongs to 1
belongs to the fe
emperor may pre
one. Thefe mem
colleges of the de
pation of the fens
name any perfon
have attained the ;
exceed 120.
“ The fenate cz
by the emperor, f{
Jenatus-confultusy \
the emperor, it e
laws, in adding, ¢
the legiflative Boe
ments of the civil
ious to the fafety «
“ Excepting th
belongs to the em
judiciary power, \
*M, Walckenaer, i
1 vol, 8vo. i, 53, S
change.
FRANCE. r2r
and bifhopricks remains much the fame as before the revolution; but the
revenues and power attached to thefe ecclefiaftical offices are now only
fufficient to render them refpectable, but not formidable.
GoveRNMENT.] The government of France has affumed more fta-
bility fince the firft publication of this work, every effort having been
yfed to introduce a new dynafty in the family of Bonaparte.
The prefent ftate of the government of France may be moft impar-
tially derived from the mouth of a French author, a man of talent and
fervation *.
ss The executive power is lodged, with complete plenitude, in the will
of the emperor, who has the power of adopting a fucceffor. _
« The new laws are firlt propofed by the government to an aflembly o§
fifty members, called the Tribunate, which difcuffes them. They are
afterwards debated by the orators of government, and of the Tribunate,
before the legiflative body, which fanéticns them or rejeéts them, with-
out any difcuffion by fecret fcrutiny.
« The government may retraét a project of a law, in whatever ftate_
of difcuffion it may be.
« The Legiflacive body, and the Tritunate are renewed in parg each
year, and the new members are chofen by the confervative Senate, upon
hits formed by the eletoral colleges of the departments, of which the
members are for life. Thefe electoral colleges of the departments are
chofen by the eleétoral colleges of the arondiféments, or diftritts them-
felyes, elected by aflemblies of each canton, or what might be called in
dd Englifh tything, compofed of houfholders. The emperor names
the prefident of each affembly of the canton; and the prefident chufes
the lecutedetre and the fecretary.”. Thefe aflemblies, as well as thofe of
the eleGtoral colleges, are convoked and diffolved by order of the empe-
ror; who can alfo add to each college of the diftri€t ten members named
by himfelf, and twenty to each electoral college of the department.
« The members of the confervative Senate are for life. ‘The nomina-
tion belongs to the emperor, who prefents three, of whom the choice
belongs to the fenate itfelf; or, according to another difpofition, the
emperor may prefent one, the Tribunate one, and the legiflative body
one, Thefe members mutt be taken from a lift, formed by the electoral
colleges of the departments; but the emperor may, without the particie
pation of the fenate, and without any attention to the eleétoral colleges,
name any perfon member of the confervative Senate, provided that he
have attained the age prefcribed by the law, and that the number do not
exceed 120. .
“ The fenate cannot proceed to any bufinefs, except it be propofed
by the emperor, fave only in cafes of its own arrangements. But by its
Jenatus-confultus, which cannot proceed except upon the propofition of
the emperor, it exercifes fupreme power even upon the conttitutional
laws, in adding, explaining, or fufpending the execution ; in diffolving
the legiflative Rody, and the tribunate ; and even in annulling the judg-
ments of the civil and criminal tribunals, when it fuppofes them obnox.
ious to the fafety of the ftate.
“ Excepting the fupremacy of the fenate, and right of pardon, which
belongs to the emperor, the tribunal of caffation exercifes the fupreme
judiciary power, with a right of cenfure and difcipline over the tribunals
*M. Walckenaer, in his tranflation of the large edition of this Geography, Paris: 1804,
1 vol, @vo. i, $3, Some alterations have been acopted, in confequence of the recent
change.
of
FRANCE.
of appeal, and the criminal tribunals, annulling ‘their judgments ;
cafes of contradiétion to the law, or want of form, and even with rh
power of fufpending the judges. There isa grand judge or miniftey of
juftice, who, on folemn occafions, prefides in the tribunal of caflation
and the tribunals of appeals. There are alfo, unhappily, for certain
crimes {pecial tribunals ; of which the judgments are not fubje& to ap.
peal, being exempt from the ordinary forms. All the judges, except
the juftices of peace, are for life, and named by the emperor, neverthe.
Jefs for thofe of the tribunal of caffation he prefents three perfons to the
fenate, whofe choice is definitive.
PopuLarion.] The population of France was formerly computed at
% 6,000,000, but the recent acquifitions, if durable, would {well it to the
formidable extent of 32,000,c00. At all events, France is a country
teeming with population, and quickly refumes her vigour after ftupendous
loffes, as Europe has repeatedly experienced.
Cotonies.] In.1810 France ntay be faid to have no colonies,
Army.] The political convulfions which have agitated this unhappy
country, the enthufiafm, and yet more the defpotilm, of freedom, have
occaffonally, within thefe few years, {welled the French armies to the
amazing computation of upwards of a million. But it may fafely be
doubted whether the real amount at any time exceeded 600,000 effeAtive
men, the French having fwelled their own numbers to intimidate their
enemies, and thofe of the latter to apologize for their defeats. Under the
royal government the army of France was eftimated at 225,000, of which
were infantry 170,000, cavalry 44,000, artillery 11,000 *.
Navy.] The maritime power of France was formidable even to
England, till the battle of La Hogue, fince which the Britith flag has
reigned triumphant on the ocean; and the ftruggles of France, though
often energetic, have encountered the fixed deltiny of inevitable defeat,
Revenues. ] The revenue of France was formerly computed at about
0,000,000l. fterling ; from which, after deducting the expence of col.
ection, and the payment of the intereft on the national debt, there re,
mained clear about 18,000,000l.; but any attempt to calculate the prefent
ftate of the revenue muft be vague and inconclufive. According to
the moft recent accounts it amounted to about 25,000,000l. fterling.
The common current money of France has been computed at
90,000,000. fterling, while that of Great Britain has been eftimated at
40,000,000l. The late conquefts have enriched France, and efpecially
Paris, with the rapine of many provinces; and the generals vie with the
Romans in wealth and luxury.
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS.}| The political importance
and relations of France continue’ to be vaft; nor was the prodigious
power of this ftate ever fo completely felt and acknowledged, as after a
revolution and a war which threatened her very cxiftence. When ex.
peéted to fall an eafy prey, the fuddenly arofe the aggreffor, and has
aftonifhed Europe by the rapidity and extent of her victories, The ri-
valry of many centuries between France and England funk into a petty
difpute, when compared with this mighty conteit, which will be felt and
* By the Etat Militaire, a calendar revived, for the eighth year of the republic, it ap-
pears that the French armics confitted of 110 demi-brigades, each of three battalions, and
when complete, of 3,200 men; of 30 light demi-brigades of like number; 8 regiments
of foot artillery, each of 20 companies; 8 of horfe artillery, each of 466 men; 26 regi-
ments of cavalry, and 20 regiments of dragoons, each of 800 men; 25 regiments of
chaffeurs, and 12 regiments of huffars, of the like number. The whole, without including
the enginecrs, miners, &c, &c. forming a force of 413,728,
q deplored
Jored by diftan
tes the Britit
wae free from
~ a oo fo iniigni
france, than at. ay
cept Spain aud Pa
pitious projects of|
Manners and Cujfto
—Cities and To
Commerce.
MANNERS AND Ct
that the theme has
of the portrait are
wards focial enjoy
difpofe of his occ
from liftlef{nefs or
confpire to affix a
would little expeé
The ancient anc
many prejudices
peared in the repo
cultomed to the e
and cuftoms canni
loofenefs of moral
the republican f
manners, nor has
LANGUAGE. ] |
of any in Euroy
adapted to life, |
but it wants forc
and academicians |
purity, that, like
foft and incapable
known corruption
and idioms. Eve
mance } a name w
valry, as being c
of French profe i
Joinville’s life of
Froiffart. But v
Dante and Petrar
commences with t
introduced fuch e:
dictionary is requi
LITER..TURE.]
FRANCE,
deplored by diftant pofterity. Yet, by the proteétion of all-ruling pro-
yderce, the Britifh empire has rifen fuperior to the: itruggles, and re.
wav free from thofe {cenes of carnage and devaftation which attended
to French progrefs into other countries; and the French navy being re-
a ¢oto miignificant a force, Great Britain has lefs to apprehend rom
vance, than at_any former period. The other powers of Europe, ex;
cept Spain aud Portugal, are either the victims or affociates of the am-
bitjous projects of France.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.— Literature. —Education.— Univerfities.
—Cities and Towns. —Edifices.—Inland Navigation.—Manufadures and
Commerce.
9. '
HE manners and cuftoms of the
French have been fo often delineated,
that the theme has become trivial and familiar. The mot pleafing parts
of the portrait are vivacity, gaiety, politenefs, a fingular difpofition to-
wards focial enjoyments, and that happy art which enables the adept to
difpofe of his occupations and pleafures in an agreeable fucceffion, free
from liltleffnefs or fatigue. On the other hand ancient and recent events
confpire to affix a fanguinary ftain on the national character, which one
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. ]
would little expect amid fo much yaiety, and oe benevolence.
The ancient and rooted enmity between France and England nourifhed
many prejudices againft the French character, which have fince difap-
peared in the reports of more candid authors. Yet, with travellers ac-
cultomed to the elegance of Englifh life, many of the French manners
and cuftoms cannot be reconciled to ideas of phyfical purity; and the
loofenefs of morals, in regard to the fex, has become proverbial. Even
the republican form of government did not fuper-induce republican
manners, nor has the liberty of divorce proved any bond of chaftity.
LancuaGe.] The French language is the mott univerfally diffufed
of any in Europe. In variety, clearnefs, and precifion, and idioms
adapted to life, bufinefs and pleafure, it yields to no modern fpeech ;
but it wants force and dignity, and yet more, fublimity. The critics
and academicians of the feventeenth century enaéted fuch fevere laws of
purity, that, like gold reduced to the utmoft finenefs, it has become
foft and incapable of deep impreffions. The French language is a well
known corruption of the Roman, mingled with Celtic and Gothic words
and idioms. Even in the tenth century it continued to be called Ro-
mance ; a name which afterwards paffed to the poems and tales of chi-
valry, as being compofed in this diale&. One of the earljcft {fpecimens
of French profe is the hiftory by Villehardouin, which was followed by
Joinville’s life of St.Louis, and the copious and fingular chronicle of
Froiffart. But while the Italian remains the fame from the days of
Dante and Petrarca, the epoch of claffical purity of the French language
commences with the reign of Louis XIV. The recent revolution has
introduced fuch exuberance of new words and phrafes, that a neological
dictionary is required to explain them,
Liten..Turg.] The literature of France has, in modern times, rian
cite
In the bold exertions of inventive
France cannot
and beautify]
N period
a Native
S l ee
author of the life of St. Martin, has been tlyled the Chriftian Salinn’
Nor did the conqueft of Gaul by the Franks break the golden chain fa
{cience, which was continued by Gregory of ‘Tours, and other venerabl
writers, The collection of ancient hiftorians of France is fingularly
complete and important. In the eleventh century the ufe of the Latiy
began to be fupplaated by the modern dialect, But it would be idle
and fuperfluous to attempt to enumerate the crowd of modern authors |
who have refleéted honour on their language and country, Who is q
ftranger to the Roman grandeur of Corneille, to the tender and elegiac |
elegance of Racine, the tragic pomp and terror of Crebillon, the comic &
powers of Moliere, the naiveté, the fubtle fimplicity of La Fontaine
the placid inftruétion of Fenelon, the gaicty of Greflet, the cauttic yi.
vacity of Voltaire ?
Epucation.] ‘The ftate of education in all the Catholic countries
was very defedtive till the Jefuits acquired great eftimation by their at.
tention to this important department ; to which, if their exertions had
been folely direéted, they would have proved a moft ufeful body of men,
National education has juitly attraéted the attention of the new rulers
with what fuccefs time muft difcover; for there is a wide difference
between formings a plaufible f{cheme, and the putting of it in lafting exe.
cution, with regulations and funds that fupport themfelves, finds,
whatever forra of government the ignorant will be found the mof
unmanageable ; and thofe who attempted to extinguifh what they
termed the ariftocracy of talents, united, as ufual, every vice to con
fummate igvorance. |
Universities. ] France formerly boafted of twenty-one univertities ;
in the north Douay, Caen, Paris, Rheims, Nanci, Strafbourg; in the
middle previnces Nantes, Angers, Poitiers, Orléans, Bourges, Dijon,
Befangow ; and in the fouth Bourdeaux, Pau, Perpignan, Touloufe,
Montpellier, Aix, Orange, Valence *. Of thefe the Sorbonne of Paris
was the moft celebrated: but it fhewed an irremediable tendency to pro-
long the reign of fcholaftic theology. The academies and literary
focieties were computed at thirty-nine. Thofe of Paris, in particular,
have been long known to the learned world, by elegant and profound
volumes of differtations on the fciences, andon the Belles Letires, Nor
have pub lic inftitutions of this kind been foreign to the confideration of the
new gowernment.
Cities; AND Towne) The ample extent of this country difplays'a
correfpon ding.number of important cities and towns, Paris, the capital,
rifes on oth fides the river Seine, in a pleafant and healthy fituation,
with deligl itful environs, It is divided into three parts; the town, will
on the north), the city in the middle, and that part called the univerfity on
the fouth. It is mentioned by Ccefar + as being reftrifted in his time to
an ifland in the midft of the Seine. Aan intelligent traveller fuppofes
+ vii, 54
# Lag pCroixn Geographic, wme i, 279
, Paris
paris to be one-third
ount to between §
fee flone, but not
in various direction
pe peculiarly deftru
of the city. The
yblic buildings ar
ipen and commandi
et fpecimens of
yee, now the Pa
thuilleries, the Pal
Paris, nO doubt, exc
deanlinefs and conv:
tion for foot paffer
nent to the middle z
ftile impaired the ba
provinces has enlarg
fiching numerous Ind
city with new and b
Next to Paris in ¢
ghich was fuppofec
manufactures were al
it was natural that t
ancient ariftocracy,
profperity. During
captured, and, after
fral demolition. I
decree was only ex
recover its ancient «
however, the moft hi
The third and for
uch peopled by abc
been already mentio
the pert being at th
whole Mediterranea
parts of the city are
Bourdeaux was @
eat injury. The
he chief exports at
which we term clar
tert and fome other
in France, and the
much as London ex
volution, tranfcend
In giving a brief
may be premifed th
Audria, are referve
formerly belonged
Lifle and Valencier
than for its manufat
~ at 60,000.
ortifications 5 yet
Englith and Autri
® Young's Ir
FRANCE. 12g.
putisto be one-third fmaller than London * : and the inhabitants probabl
gnount to between 5 and 600,000. The houfes are ehiefly built wit
fee tone, but not from the ancient quarries like catacombs, which run
i, various directions under the ftreets; fo that an earthquake would
tp peculiarly deftructive, and might completely bury the fouthern part
fithe city. The banks of the Seine prefent noble quays; and the
iblic buildings are not only elegant in themfelves, but are placed in
jen and commanding fituations. The Louvre is arranged among the
tet fpecimens of modern architecture ; and the church of St. Gene-
jee, now the Pantheon, is alfo defervedly admired 3; nor muft the
thuilleries, the Palais Royal, and Hofpital of Invalids be forgotten.
paris, no doubt, exceeds London in magnificence, but yields greatly in
deanlinefs and convenience ; and the ftreets, generally without accommo-
ation for foot paffengers, loudly befpeak the inattention of the govern.
nent to the middle and lower claffes of mea. The recent revolution has
fie impaired the beauty of Paris; on the cuntrary, the rapine of feveral
rovinces has enlarged and adorned the public collections; and, by en-
riching numerous individuals, has enabled them to increafe their favourite
city with new and beautiful ftreets.
Next to Paris in extent and ;opulation was the noble city of Lyons,
ghich was fuppofed to contain about 100,000 fouls. As the chief
nanufactures were articles of luxury, filk, cloths of gold, and filver, &c.
it was natural that this venerable town fhould be firmly attached to the
ancient ariftocracy, though with confequences incalculably fatal to its
profperity. During the infatuated reign of the jacobins it was befieged,
uaptured, and, after the wildeft and bafeft maflacres, was doomed to
fnal demolition. But as there are bounds even to rage and folly, this
decree was only executed in part; though Lyons will probably never
recover its ancient extent and opulence. The new government lends,
however, the moft liberal encouragement.
The third and fourth cities of France are Marfcilles and Bourdeaux ;
uch peopled by about 80,000 fouls. The foundation of Marfeilles has
been already mentioned, and the city remains worthy of its ancient fame,
the pert being at the fame time one of the beft and moft frequented in the
shle Mediterranean. The exchange is a noble building, and the new
parts of the city are beautiful.
Bourdeaux was a profperous city, but the trade muft have fuffered
at injury. The port is ample and commodious, with extenfive quays.
The chief exports are wine and brandy, particularly the vin de Bourdeaux,
which we term claret, becaufe it is of a clear and tranfparent red, while
tert and fome other wines are opake. The theatre is the moft magnificent
in france, and the actors ufed to receive extravagant falarics ; and as
much as London exceeds Paris, fo much did Soules, before the re-
tolution, tranfcend Liverpool +.
In giving a brief idea of the other chief cities and towns of France, it
may be premifed that thofe of the Netherlands, formerly belonging to
Audria, are referved for feparate defcription. But among thofe which
formerly belonged to what was ftiled French Flanders, may be named
Lifle and Valenciennes; the former more memorable for its ftrength,
than for its manufaétures of camlets and ftuffs. ‘The population is com.
~ at 60,000. Valenciennes is alfo remarkable for the ftrength of its
ortifications ; yet on the 26th of July, 1793, it furrendered to the
Englith and Au‘trian army, under the Duke of York ; but was retaken
® Young’s France, i, #6, + Young, i, 60, .
ry
| ibaa TRI 6 isesichet
FRANCE,
126
by the French army in the following year.
lace, camlets, and cambrics.
Amiens is a confiderable town, with a population of about 40,060:
‘ ; 9000
but Rouen, formerly the capital of Normandy, contains 72,000 fouls,
and carries on a confiderable trade. Breft is more remarkable as being
the chief maritime arfenal of France in the north, than for its extent or
population, which oes not exceed 30,000. Nantes, with a population
of 56,000, is a beautiful commercial city, with a fplendid theatre, and
many new ftreets, but the environs are barren and uninterefting *
Orleans, a city of about 40,000 fouls, is celebrated by two fieges which
it fuftained, one againft Attila, king of the Huns, in the fifth century
the other againft the Englifh in the fifteenth. Nancy, in Lorraine, i
not equal to Metz in extent, but is one of the moft beautiful cities in
France. Strafbourgh is a venerable city, with a population of about
40,000, feized by Rous XIV., in 1681, and confirmed to him by the
peace of Ryfwick, in 1697. The fortifications are ftrong; and the
Gothic cathedral prefents a {pire of 574 feet in height.
Few of the other inland towns deferve mention, except Touloufe, a
city of 50,000 fouls; and the parliament of which was elteemed, under
the old government, next in rank to that of Paris; the extent is great,
but the manufaQtures are trifling, though here be the termination of the
great canal, opened by Louis XIV., from the Mediterranean to the Ga.
ronne, a work truly magnificent, and which alone would preferve his
memory to future ages. Montpellier, on the Mediterranean, with deli.
cious and highly ornamented environs, and a noble aqueduct, is of con.
fiderable extent, but particularly celebrated by the falubrity of the air,
and an ancient fchool of medicine. The profpect is fingularly extentive
and interefting, embracing the Pyrenees on the one fide, and on the other,
the yet grander fummits of the Alps +.
Epirices.] Several of the moft noble edifices of France are in Paris,
and its vicinity. ‘To thofe already mentioned mutt be added, the palace
of Verfailles, rather remarkable, however, for the profufion of expenfe,
than for the fill of the architeét; the parts being {ml and unhar.
monious, and the general effect rather idle pomp than true grandeur.
The bridge of Neuilly, a league from Paris, is elteemed the moit beau
tiful in Europe, contilting of five wide arches of equal fize. I'he
ancient cathedrals and caltles are fo numeraus that it would be idle to at.
tempt to enumerate them: and the Freach nobility were not contented,
like thofe of Spain, with large houfes in the cities, but had grand che
teaux fcattered ovr the kingdom, to which, however, they {eldow
retired, except when compelled by formal Sanifhment from the court.
‘INLAND NAVIGATION. ] The inland navigation of France has been
romoted by feveral capital exertiors. The canal of Briare, otherwil
ityled that of Burgundy, was begun by Henry [V., and completed by
Louis XIII. opening a communication between the Loire and the Seine,
or in other words, between Paris and the weltern provinecs. Pulling
by Montargis it joins the canal of Orleans, ard falls into the Seine near
Fontainbleau. ‘This navigation of forty-two loc!:s, is of great utility in
inland commerce t.
The canal of Picardy extends from the Somme to the Oife, beginning
at St. Quintin, and forming a convenient intercourfe to the proviuices it
the N.E.
The chief manufactures arg
* Young's France, i, 104, + Young's France, i, 43,
2 Philips, 52,
But
But the chief
guedoc, commie
Riguet, the eng
Fifteen years of
chanical i¢noran
of only 720 fee
tay of Languec
water: it enters
Touloufe. The
depth 6 feet ; th
expenfe was moi
he other c:
fupreme utility,
kingdom.
For a century
France to have f
and French writ
of recent fame.
terefting to Gre:
from that well.;
facture of broad
fame place, and
and fome of cott
refined fugar. — /
and in the fame
hundred looms w
and the paper n
fattory at Cahor
fowith At M
and filk handker
in ilk, cotton, a
of filk flockings
chiefly made at
manufactures of |
vais, one of the
printed callicoes,
known as the ff
cambric, and
and the laces o
cloths and camb
France, being a ti
and cotton cloths
general has nume
made at Louviere
fame place is a
lens. = =The filk
60,000 people, t
factures flourifhe
feveral other place
From this deta
By the account f
rua and Alface,
Py
alace
ene,
nhar.
deur.
EAU.
The
O ate
Minted,
been
iy ife
ed by
Seine,
afling
le near
lity in
inning
ices ih
FRANCE, | tay
But the chief work of this defcription is the celebrated canal of Lan-
yedoc, commenced and completed in the reign of Louis XIV., b
Riquets the engineer, under the aufpices of that able minifter Colbert.
Fifteen years of labour were employed, from 1666 to 1681, andthe me-
chanical ignorance of the period was furprifed at a tunnel near Beziers,
of only 720 feet, lined with free-ftone. ‘Thir noble canal begins in the
tay of Languedoc; and at St. Ferriol is a refervoir of 595 acres of
water; it enters the Garonne about a quarter of a mile Lelow the city of
Touloufe. ‘The breadth, including the towing paths, is 144 feet; the
depth 6 feet ; the length 64 French leagues, or about 180 miles. The
expenfe was more than half a million fterling,
The other canals in France are very numerous; but, though of
fupreme utility, are too minute to enter into @his general view of the
kingdom. :
For acentury, extending from 1650 to 1750, Mr. Young fuppofes
France to have poffeffed the moft flourifhing manufaCtures in Europe * ;
and French writers affe&t to fpeak of the Englifh manufactures as being
of recent fame. A ‘ketch of this important fubject, particularly in-
terefting to Great Britain, as the rival of France, fhall here be traced
from that well-informed author. At Abbeville was a famous manus
facture of broad cloth ; and another at Louviere in Normandy. At the
fame place, and at Amiens, were manufactures of {tuffs, worlteds, &c.
and fome of cotton. The manufactures of Orleans were ftockings, and
refined fugar. At Chateau Roux another manufactory of broad clothe ;
ad in the fame neighbourhood large iron forges. At Limoges an
hundred looms were employed in weaving druggets of hemp and wool ;
and the paper mills amounted to feventy. ‘The large woollen manu-
factory at Cahors had declined ; but thofe of Montauban continued to
fourth. At Montpellier were confiderable manufactures of blankets
and filk handkerchiefs ; but thofe of Nifmes were {till more important
in ilk, cotton, and thread: and at Gange was the chief manufacture
of filk ftockings in all France. The Londrins for the Levant were
chiefly made at Beg-de-Rieux, and at Carcaffonne, At Pau are large
manufactures of linen, ‘Tour has long been celebrated for filks. Beau-
vais one of the moft aétive towns in France, fupplies tapeftries and
printed callicoes, The fabrication of plate glafs at St.Gobin is well
known as the firft in Europe. At St. Quintin are made linen,
cambric, and gauzes. Cambrics derive their name from Cambray ;
and the laces of Valenciennes have been long known. Liifle difplays fine
cloths and camblets. Mr. Young ftyles Rouen the Manchet er of
France, being a town eminent in commerce, and in manufaétures of velvet,
and cotton cloths; and Caen boatts of her filky fleeces. Bretagne in
general has numerous manufactures of thread andlinen. ‘The fine cloths
made at Louviere our author elteens the'firft in the world, and at the
fame place is a large cotton mill. Rheims is remarkable for wool.
lens. ‘The filk manufactures of Lyons were eftimated to employ
60,000 people, the looms being computed at 12,000. Iron manu.
factures flourifhed at Nantes, Mont Cenis, St. Phillippe-en-foret, and
feveral other places.
From this detail fome idea may he formed of the commerce of France.
By the account for 1784, which did not include the provinces of Lor.
run and Alface, nor the Weft Indian trade, the ftatement was
* Young's France, i, 569,
Total
FRANCE.
Total exports, 307,151,700 livres.
—— imports, 271,365,000
Balance, 35786,700 or L.. #,565,668 Rerling.
The trade with the Weft Indies gave a large balance againft France
which, in 1786, exported to the amount of more than 64,000 bon
livres, but the imports exceeded 174,000,000. The average ibrinnis
of France in 1788 were about twelve millions and a half flerling, the ex.
ports nearly 15,0c0,000. The imports of Great Britain in the fane
year were about 18,000,000, the exports feventeen and a half *, Since
the French revolution the commerce of England has been conttantly op
the increafe ; while that of our rival has been almoft annihilated,
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Country —Soil and Agriculture —Riveys,
_ —Lakes.— Mountains.—Fore/ts.—Botany.—Zoology.— Mineralogy am
Mineral Waters. —Natural Curivitics.
CLIMATE AND SRASONS.] Te climate re extenfive a country ae
rance, may be expected to be various,
Tn general it is far more clear and ferene than that of England ; but the
northern provinces are expofed to heavy rains, which however pragluce
beautiful verdure and rich paftures +. France may be divided into three
climates, the northern, the central, and the fouthern. The firft yields no
wines} the fecond no maize ; the third produce wines, maize and olives,
Thefe divifions proceed in an oblique line from the S. W. tothe N. E.,
fo as to demonitrate * that the eaftern part of the kingdom is two and
* half degrees of latitude hotter than the weftern, or if not hotter more fa.
vourable to vegetation.” One great advantage of the climate of France
arifes from its being adapted to the culture of the vine, which flourifhes
in fpots that would otherwife be watte.
ACE OF THECOUNTRY.] The face of the country is generally slain,
and the only mountains defervinag of the name are found in the fouth, in
Auvergne and Languedoc, Dauphiné and Provence. Brittany corref.
ponds greatly with Cornwall, and abounds in extenfive heaths, © In Lor.
rain are found the mountains of Vofges, far inferior to the fouthern cle.
vations, For beauty the Limofin is perhaps fuperior to any other pro.
vince of France: yet much of the country is finely deverfified with }il!
and dale, and the rivers, particularly the Seine, are often grand and pic.
turefque.
Soi, AND AGRICULTURE. ] The variations of the foil have been well
defcribed by Mr. Young {. The N. E. part from Flanders to Orla
isarich loam. Further to the W. the land is poor and ftony ; Brittany
being gencrally gravel, or gravelly fand, with low ridges of granite. The
chalk runs through the centre of the kingdom, from Germany by Cham.
pagne to Saintonge ; and on the N. of the mountainous tract is a large
extent of gravel, but even the mountainous region of the fouth is gene
* Young, i. 529 + Ibid, i, 909, 3 Ibid. i. 296. ,
rally
rilly fertile, th
many dandes, or
The fame wr
which confitt ir
fuperior crops ¢
the fallows : be
In fome of th
with the natural
induftrys A tri
on fome of th
which run down
ravines, walls of
when they are |
depofited againit
ramparts are th
water, having n
which are more
fy as to lend feet
rocefs calcareot
productive by c
materials for a 1
filled with earth
terraces.
Rivers.) T
and among thefe
the Garonne. "
ring near Saint:
ofancient Burgu
Englith sienast
‘miles. It ma
calculated with e
merely affords a
courfe of one ri
The Loire de
cient Languedoc
ing the ocean ac
00 miles.
The Rhone fp
Grimfel in Swi
and the lake of
the Mediterranea
The Garonne
this river is gener
junction with the
The Seine is al
prefents noble fea
courle is disfigu
vades a flat coun
is a noble and rap
France is ador
reputation 5 ast
and Dordogne,
ftreams of the L
* Nichelfon
FRANCE. 12g
rally fertile, though the large province formerly called Gafcony prefent
many andes, or level heaths.
The fame writer has ably illuftrated the defeéts of French agriculture,
< which coniift in frequent fallows, while the Englifh farmers Beal even
fuperior crops of corn, by fubftituting turnips and other green crops to
nee, the fallows :_befides the clear profit from his clover, turnips or tares.
coo In fome of the provinces, however, the plans of agriculture correfpond
orts with the natural fertility of the foil; and others difplay a moft laudable
> eX. induttry» A. ftriking inttance of the latter is the artificial fertility conferred
fame on fome of the barren mountains of the Cevennnes *. As the waters
ince which run down the fides carry confiderable quantities of earth into the
yor ¥ ravines, walls of loofe {tones are ereéted which permit the waters to pafs
when they are clear; but when turbid their load of earth is gradually
depofited again{t the wall, and affords a {pace of fertile foil. Srcceffive
ramparts are thus erected to the very top of the mountain; and the
water, having no longer a violent fall, only ferves to nourifh the crops,
which are moreover protected by planting fruit trees at certain intervals,
fy as to lend fecurity and confiftence to the new acquifition. By another
rocefs calcareous mountains, which generally rife in fhelves, are rendered
productive by cutting away the rock behind the theif, which fupplies
vert, materials for a low wall around the edge. The interval is afterwards
sy filled with earth, and the barren mountain is crowned with luxuriant
terraces.
Rivens.] The rivers of France form the next objet of confideration s
try ae and among thefe four are eminent, the Seine, the Loire, the Rhone, and
sbi the Garonne. The firft is one of the moft beautiful ftreams of France,
ring near Saint Seine, in the modern department of Céte d’Or, a portion
ofancient Burgundy ; it purfues its courfe to the N. W. till it enter the
Englifh channel at Havre de Grace, after a courfe of about 250 iinglifh
‘miles. It may here be remarked that the length affigned to rivers is not
; r. calculated with exaétnefs, a work of infinite and uncertain labour, but
' merely affords a comparative fcale, to judge of the relation which the
courfe of one river bears to another.
The Loire derives its fource from Mont Gerbier in the N. of an
cient Languedoc ; and after a northern courfe turns to the weft, enters
ing — a confiderable way beyond Nantes, after a courfe of about
Jal oo miles. ;
. The Rhone fprings from the Glacier ef Furca, near the mountain of
Grimfel in Swifferland ; and after paffing the beautiful vales of Vallais,
and the lake of Geneva, bends its couriv towards the fouth, and enters
the Mediterranean. ‘The comparative courfe 400 miles.
nea The Garonne rifes in the vale of Arau in the Pyrenees. The courfe of
ht 1 this river is generally N. W. Itextends to about 250 miles. After its
Kal. junction with the Dordogne, it affumes the name of the Gironde.
P The Seine is almott univerfally — oe piGturefque ; and the Loire
_—" prefents noble features from Angiers to Nantes, but the reft of its immenfe
doar courle is disfigured with rough gravel +. ‘The Garonne generally per-
rittany fgg Yadesa flat country, and is tamely fringed with willows, The Rhone
~ The isa noble and rapid ftream.
Cham: France is adorned and enriched with many rivers of fmaller courfe and
a large Me Teputation ; as the Saone, which joins the Rhone near Lyons; the Lot
* get and Dordogne, which joins the Garonne and the numerous tributary
ftreams of the Loire. ;
# Nicholfon’s Journal, ili. 995. + Young's France, i. 305.
rally Laxts.]
ee yikes
FRANCE.
130
Laxes.] A few fmali lakes occur in Provence, among the Votges |
of Alface, and perhaps in fome of the other provinces, but only adapted
to the minute defcription of the topographer, France and Spain bein
fingrularly deficient in this pleafing feature of land{cape, &
Movuntatns.] Before proceeding to the grand chain of mountains in §
the S. of France, it may be proper briefly to mention a few mountainoys 4
tracts in the north. Thofe of Brittany are granitic and primitive, but
like thofe of Cornwall of fmall elevation, ‘They divide into branches to.
wards Breftand Alengon. The Vofyes, in the department of that name
in the S. of ancient Lorrain, are fuppofed to be conneéed with the
mountains of Swifferland *.
Mont Jura, a vanguard of the Alps, forms a boundary between
Trance and Swifferland. If Mont Blanc be admitted among the French
mountains, the other Alps cannot rival its fupreme elevation, The an
cient province of Dauphiné difplays feveral Alpine branches, which alfo
extend through great part of Provence.
The grand chain of the Cevennes paffes from N. to S, and
fends out branches towards the E. and W. In the modern departments
of the upper I oire and Cantal, are appearances which, in the opinion of |
eminent naturaii:'s, indicate ancient volcanoes. ©The northern part of this
branch is ftyled the Puy de Dome, while the fouthern is call
tens iu France. ‘The chief elevation is that of the Puy de-Sanfi, which
rifes cout 6,300 feet above the level of the fea, while the Puy de Dome #
is about ¢..00, and the Plomb du Cantal, the higheft of that part, js
abou 6,200 feet. Near the Puy de Sanfi is the gigantic mountain
PAnys, and Ec orchade a fhattered and wrecked elevation.
du Cantal is aifo accompanied by bold rivals, as the Puy de Griow, |p
Colde Cabre, le Puy Mari, andthe Violent. This enormous affembiage
of rocks covers an extent of about 120 miles, and according: to -
French authors is chiefly bafaltic. The Puy de Sanfi is capped with
almoft' perpetual fnow, followed in the defcent by naked rocks and ancient
pines; from its fide iffues from two fources, the river Dordogne, and
many picturefque cafcades devolve amidft bafaltic columns §. On the
23d of June, 1727, Pradines, a village on the fiope of one of thefe moun.
tains, was totally overwhelmed, the whole mountain with its bafaltic co.
lumns rolling into the valley. The inhabitants were fortunately engaged
in the celebration of midfummer eve around a bonfire at fome diftance ||,
Thefe mountains are in winter expofed to dreadful fnowy hurricanes,
called acirs, which in a few hours obliterate the ravines, and even the
precipices, and defcending to the paths and itreets, confine the inhabitants
to their dwellings till a communication can be opened with their neigh.
bours, fometimes in the form of an arch under the vatt mafs of fnow.
Wretched the traveller who is thus over-txken. His path difappears,
the precipice cannot be diftinguifhed from: the levels if he ftand he is
chilled, and buried if he proceed ; his eye-light fails amc!t the {nowy
* Lameth. Theo. dela Terre, iv. 384.
+ Voy. Dans les depart. Cantal, p, 5.
t Nor d'Or, as commonly fpelled. The name is derived from the river Dor, which
with the Dogae orms the Dordogne. See Le Grand’s curious voyage D'Auvergn, 3
vals, &vo,
§ tb p. 13,
| Vov. dans les lepart, Cantal,p.24. One vaft block of ftone, 90 feet long and
ati thie, Leong tov heavy to roll, funk vertically, and the fhock feemed an earthquake
even at the diftance «f @ league. Another mountain is faid to have recently funk and
duappeared in the S, of France
darknefs;
ed that of Sm
Cantal +. ‘ihc Monts Dor ¢ form the centre, and are the higheft mom. 4
The Plom) &
jurknefs ; his refp
and perifhes. In {
yccompanied with
focks, Which for
fhepherds, who hav
The Pyrenees re
gkbrated fiace the
istice as belonging
qucive and interef
have exerted themfe
flenty it feems at 1
which fhall be chief
lapeyroufe *, Tc
found to prefent ca
animals, near or upc
the chain. Mont F
renees, afcending ak
Englih. Other no
Villey &c. The ]
ridge, prefenting the
aeach extremity ti
Thus at St. Jean de
theeat, beyond the
The higheft fummits
tite are interfperfed |
htter primitive or fe
Antin, of red and Q
winmafs be grey.
dreadful fterility, bu
ifords frequent woo
udermined by the
tuous defcent of vat
ave their glaciers a
According to Ra
with marine {poils,
careous rock often a
foo feet in height ; a
Near the fummit is
level of the fea, whid
of Beoufla. The b
has no connection wi
aother lake to the
niltakes in the topog
obferves, that the li
the Pyrenees, while
mountains are genera
the moft violent rains
Forests,'| The fa
wood is the general f
Two of the moft re
mec for extent and tl
precinéts ; the latter
* Journal des Mires,
3 Journ, des Mia. No,
FRANCE, 131
jurtnefs ; his refpiration is impeded, his head becomes giddy, he. falls
and perifhes. In fummer thunder ftorms are frequent and terrible, and
companied. with torrents of large hail, which deftroy, the fruits and
{yes .
ted
“ing focksy which for fix months pafture on the mountains, guarded by
8 in hepherds, who have temporary cabins of turf and reed, ftyled burons.
ous & The Pyrenees remain to be defcribed. This vaft chain, known and
but gkorated fince the days of Herodotus, may be confidered with equal
3 to. ulice as belonging either to France or to Spain; but as the moft pros’
me, judive and interefting parts are on the fide of France, and her literati
the tae exerted themfelves in the defeription, while thofe of Spain have been
fient, it feems at lealt equally proper to introduce the delineation here,
yeen which fhall be chiefly derived from the recent accounts of Ramond and
xnch lapeyroufe *. To the furprife of naturalifts, the Pyrenees have been
ans fund to prefent calcareous appearances, and even fliells and fkeletons of
alfo gimals, near or upon their higheft fummits, which are in the centre of
the chain. Mont Perdu is confidered as the higheft elevation of the Py«
and renees, afcending above the fea 1751 French toifes, or aboyt 11,000 feet
ents Englith. Other noted heights are Marboré, the Pic de Midi, the Niege
nof ME Volley kc. ‘The Pyrenean chain appears ata diftance like a thaggy
‘this ridge, prefenting the fegment of a circle fronting France, and defcending
at of MMe each extremity till it difappear in the ocean and Mediterranean +.
cm. Mae Thus at St. Jean de Luz only high hills appear, and in like manner on
hich theealt, beyond the fummit Canigou, the elevations gradually diminith.
ome fm The higheft fummits are crowned with perpetual fnow. Blocks of gra-
t, is riteare interfperfed with vertical bands, argillaceous and calcareous, the
ntain liter primitive or fecondary, and fupplying the marbles of Campan and
lomb ge Antin, of red and green {potted with white, though the general moun.
w, le uinmafs be grey. To the S. and W, the Pyrenees prefent nothing but
plage dreadful ferility, but on the N. and E. the defcent is more gradual, and
Z wfords frequent woods and paftures. Betides the dreadful fall of rocks,
with rnin by the waters, they are expofed to Lavanges, or the impe-
cient tuous defcent of vaft maffes of {now, called Avalanches in Swiflerland, and
and ave their glaciers and other terrific features of the Alps.
n the According to Ramond ¢ the very fummit of mount Perdu abounda
oun- with marine {poils, This mountain is of very difficult accefs, as the cals
COs
aged
ce ||,
anes,
the
tants
igh-
now.
pars,
e is
howy
careous rock often affumes the form of perpendicular walls, from too to
oo feet in height ; and the {nows, ice, and glaciers increafe the difficulty.
Near the fummit is a confiderable lake, more than gooo feet above the
kvel of the fea, which throws its waters to the eaft into the Spanith valley
of Beouffa. The beit maps of the Pyrenees are erroncous, as this lake
has no connection with the noted cafcades of Marboré, which flow from
another lake to the weit; and Lapeyroufe has pointed out other grofs
nitakes inthe topography of this interefting diltri¢ct. Mr. Townfend §
obferves, that the limeftone and {chiitus feed the vegetation on the N. of
the Pyrenees, while the fouth is barren and confiits of granite ; *hough
mountains are generally barren and precipitous on the S. amd W. becaule
the moft violent rains and tempetts come from thofe regions.
Forests, | The foreftsof France are numerous andextenfive ; and as
wood is the general fuel, attention to their growth becomes indifpenfable.
Two of the moft remarkabie are thofe of Orleans and Ardennes, the for-
mer for extent and the numerous troops of banditti wl.o ufed to infett its
precinéts ; the latter for ancient fame and events of chivalry. ‘The foreft
* Journal des Mires, No. 97, p. 05.
+ Voy. dans les Dep. No. 67, p. 4.
3 Journ, des Min. No, 46. p. 757.
§ Spain, i. 89.
~
of
332 FRANCE.
of Ardennes extended from Rheims to Tournay, and on the N. E.to
Sedan in the prefent department of the Ardennes. To thefe names
might be added,the foreft of Fontainbleau, and many others which here
to enumerate would be fuperfluous,
Botany. ] Notwithftanding the pains that have hitherto been beftow.
ed by French naturalitts in illuftrating the flora of their native country
it ftill remains in an imperfeét ftate : particular diftri&ts, as the environs
‘of Montpellier, of Lyons, and of Paris, have been furveyed with con.
fiderable accuracy, but many chafms muft yet be filled before a com.
prehenfive hiftory can be made out of the vegetable productions of
France. So great indeed is its extent, and fo various its climate, that
probably more than half the European fpecies of plants may be found
within its boundaries. The bleak fhores of the North, the fertile plains
on the Belgian frontier, the rich vales of the Loire, the Rhone and Ga,
ronne, the towering heights of Auvergne, the exterior ridges of the Alps
and Pyrenees, the funny expofure of the Mediterranean coatt, offer fuch
ftriking differences of foil and temperature, as evince at once a moft abun.
dant catalogue of indigenous plants, ‘That country which produces jp
full and equal perfection wheat and apples, maize and grapes, oranges and
olives, the oak and the myrtle, muft doubtlefs exceed all other European
countries of equal extent in the variety and richnefs of its vegetable trea.
fures, A bare enumeration of them would occupy more room than can
be allotted to them in a work like the prefent. We fhall therefore on!
perticularife fuch as are the moft generally interefting to the Englif
reader.
Of the large family of compound flowers may be mentioned the laven.
der cotton, and common fouthern wood, both of them plentiful on the
rocks of Dauphiné and Provence; the alpine Cacalia abounds on the
mountainous frontiers of Savoy and Piedmont, and a few efculent vegeta.
bles that are cultivated in our kitchen gardens, but grow wild in Langue.
doc and Provence, arrange themfelves under this daft 3 for inftance, the
artichoke, falfafy, and {corzonera. -
The cucumber, the melon, the gourd, and other kindred genera,
though cultivated largely and with great eafe in the South of France, are
yet natives of hotter climates ; only one of this natural family, the Mo.
mordica elaterium, /guirfing cucumber, properly belongs to the French
flora; it occurs in a truly wild ftate, on low loofe rocks, in Provence
and Languedoc.
The nearer in general any country is fituated to the tropics, the greatcr
is the abundance and beauty of the bulbiferous or liliaceous plants that
inhabit it: the South of France is particularly rich in thefe {plendid and
fragrant vegetables, feveral of which have been naturalized in our gardens,
and conftitute their principal ornament. The large branched A {phodel, a
flower of great beauty and poetic fame, is by no means uncommon in
Provence. The tawny day-lily, cluftered hyacinth, and fpiked ftar of
Bethlehem, all are found in the Mediterranean provinces of France, x
are alfo.the orange, pompadore, and martagon lilies ; the white hellebore,
Narciffus, and Jonquil. The fhore of Hieres is adorned by the fea daffo.
dil, ing luxuriaxtly on the very beach ; and on the lower cliffs of
the Nicene and Genoefe Alps, the gigantic Agave, American aloe, now ni
turalized +o the foil and climate, raifes her ftately flower-ftem to the height
of 20 or 30 feet, and looks down on every her us plant of European
origin.
Of the papillionaceous plants that are natives of this country, feveral
gcferve notice for their ufe or ornament. Lathyrus tuberofus, a vegetable
e ot
of the pea kind
France for its I,
with blue, whit
in the fouthern j
cultivated in lar
the former is ce
every lower-gar
The broad les
of the Mediterr:
pellier ciftus, thr
orclufter round |
In the fame vicir
the pomegranate
ZooLocy. |
brated at any pe
were drawn to tl
in times of peac
horfesare, for dr
Limogin, which
the Arabian, Tu
in France confifts
The cattle of I
cram colour,
intead of green
fleeces, and rarit)
and large quant
molt remarkable
are found on the
MINERALOGY.
and fome of the
cient Gallic coins
the metal ftyled b
the filver mines a
the department o
apart of ancient 4
metal not unfreq
Loire, the Loze
valuable acquifitio
mines of quickfily
a diftri& of ten ox
Cruznach and feve
grey fand-ftone.
are thofe of Stah
many centuries,
mereur t
particu arly the
occur in the mari
departments of L
Ardéche, in the di
phiné, and in that
near Aix-la-Chap
* Young's France,
OWe
ry,
one
one
om.
3 of
that
und
lains
G2.
Alps
{uch
bun.
es in
6 and
Dpean
‘trea.
Nn Can
2 onl
agli
laven.
on the
on the
egeta.
ie ngue.
e, the
renera,
Cey are
e Mo-
rench
pvence
greater
ts that
Hid and
ardens,
odel, a
on in
ftar of |
ANCE, 26
lebore,
daffo-
cliffs of
now na
height
ropean
{everal
. getable
0
FRANCE. 133
of the pea kind, grows wild in Alface, and is cultivated in many parts of
France for its large, efculent, tuberous roots ; the great lupin, varyin
with blue, white, or flefh-ccloured bloffoms, and chick pea, are met wit
in the fouthern provinces growing fpontaneoully, but are more frequently
cultivated in large fields, as food both for cattle and man ; in England
the former is confidered merely as an ornamental plant, and is found in
every ee, ay
The broad-leaved myrtle grows with great luxuriance along the whole’
of the Mediterranean coaft ; the Caper-buth, the laurel-leaved and Mont-
elier citus, three low fhrubs of exquifite beauty, hang from the fummits,
orclufter round the fides of the low rocks about Toulon and Montpellier.
In the fame vicinity alfu are found the Provence rofe, the pyracantha, and
the pomegranate tree.
Zoo.ocy.] The horfes of France do not appear to have been cele-
brated at any period, and it is well known that the ancient monarchs
were drawn to the national affemblics by oxen. Many Englith horfes are
ia times of peace imported for the coach and faddle. The beft native
horfesare, for draught, thofe of Normandy ; for the faddle, thote of the
Limocin, which have been recently improved by croffing the breed with.
the Arabian, Turkith, and Englith*., But the greater number of horfes
in France confifts of Bidets, {mall animals of little fhow, but great utility,
The cattle of Limoges, and fome other provinces, are of a beautiful
cram colour, The fheep are ill managed, having in winter only ftraw,
intead of green food as in England}. The confequences are poor
fleeces, and rarity of fheep, fo that the poor are forced to eat bread only,
and large quantities of wool are imported. Of ferocious animals the
moft remarkable are the wild boar and the wolf; the ibex and chamois
are found on the Pyrenees and the Alps.
MineraLocy.] Gold mines anciently exifted in the South of France,
andfome of the rivulets {till roll down particles of that metal. The an-
cient Gallic coins are however of a bafe gold mingled with filver, being
themetal ftyled by the ancients eletrum. France can, however, boaft of
the filver mines at St. Marie-aux-mines in Alface, and at Giromagny in
the department of the Upper Rhine, near the mountains of Vofges, alfo
apart of ancient Alface. The fame diftri& contains mines of copper, a
metal not unfrequent in the departments of the Alps, and thofe of the
Loire, the Lozere, and the Ardéche. The duchy of Deux Ponts, a
valuable acquifition of France on the weft of the Rhine, is celebrated for
minesof quickfilver. The mountains which contain this metal embrace
a diftri& of ten or twelve leagues in length, S. to N. from Wolfftein to
Cruznach and feven or eight leagues in breadth, being of a reddifh brownor
fand-ftone. In this territory, among numerous mines of quickifilver,
ate thofe of Stahlberg and Donnerfberg, which have been explored for
many centuries, The adjacent part of the Palatinate alfo contains fimilar
mines, particularly in the mountain of Potzberg and at Wolfitein. ‘The
anual produét of thefe mines may be eftimated at 67,200 pounds of
maauy t. Two-thirds of the lead of France are from Bretagne,
particularly t
occur in the maritime Alps, and in the mountains of Vofges, in the
departments of Lozere, Ardéche, &c. &c. Antimony occurs in the
Ardéche, in the department of the Allier, at Allemont in former Dau-
phiné, and in that of Mont Blanc. ‘There are noted mines of calamine
near Aix-la-Chapelle. Manganefe occurs-in the department of the Loire,
he mines of Poullaouen and Huelgoet ; mines of lead alfo
* Young's France, ti, 53, + Thid. i. 490, t Journ, des Mines, xi. 43.
K 3 and
134 FRANCE.
and in that of the Vofges ; and at Romaneche, in the department of the
Saone and Loire; it is alfo found near Perigou, whence it ufed to be
called pierre de Perigord : Cobalt is another produé& of Alface. The
new acquifitions in Savoy prefent fome mercury ; and there is a mine at
Menildot.
“Iron, that moft important and univerfal of metals, is found in abun.
dance, particularly in fome of the northern departments. In 1798 it was
computed that there were 2000 furnaces, forges, &c. for the working of
iron and ftee] *.
. The coal mines of France were ,at' the fame time eftimated at 400
conftantly wrought; and zoo more capable of being wrought. Of thefe
coal mines many occur in the provinces which formerly belonged to Flan.
ders, ‘and in the departments of Boulogne and La Manche. Coal is alfo
not unfrequent in the ceatre and fouth of France. Nearly allied to coal
is jet, an article formerly of great confumption, chiefly in Spain. where it
was made into rofaries, crofles, buttons for black dreffes, &c. +. France
was from time immemorial in poffeffion of this branch, which was
centered in three villages in the department of the Aude, in the S. W. of
ancient Languedoc. .
‘ Befides excellent free-ftone, the environs of Paris contain abundance of
gypfum. Alum is found in confiderable quantities at Aveyron, The |
Pyrenees in particular fupply beautiful marbles.
. Minera waters,] The chief mineral waters of France are thofe of
Barrége, Bagneres, Vichi, and Plombieres. The warm baths of Barrége,
in particular, at the foot of the Pyrenees, have been long celebrated, and
there the Queen of Navarre lays the fcene of her tales. The baths of
Bagneres are in the fame neighbourhood.
NATURAL CuRiosiTIES.] Among the, natural curiofities of France, |
the moft worthy of notice'is the plain of La Crau, which lies in Pro.
vence, not far from the mouth of the Rhone. ‘This is the moft fingular
ftony defert that is to be found in France, or perhaps in Europe}. The
diameter is about five leagues, and the contents from 20 to 25 {quare
leagues, or about 150,000 Englifh acres. It is entirely compofed of
fhingle, or round gravel, fome of the ftones as large as the head of a
man, and the fhingle of the fea fhore is not more barren of foil, Beneath
is a {mall mixture of loam with fragments of ftone. In the winter
there are fcattered piles of grafs, which, from the vaft extent of the J
fpace, pafture a contiderable multitude of fheep. In general, however,
France, being moftly a plain country, does not prefent much fingularity
of’ feature ; and the fcenes of the Cevennes and Pyrenees have been
little explored by travellers, who, pafling to the chief cities, generally
fee only the moft uninterefting parts of the rd
‘« Frencwisies.] The iflesaround France are fo {mall and unimportant,
that they would fcarcely be deferving of notice, were it not for events
that have taken place during the late war. The ifle of Corfica mut
however‘be excepted. From the, dominion of Carthage, this ifle pafled
under that of Rome,and was for fometime fubje& to the Saracens of Africa,
In the time of the crufades: it was affigned to the republic of Pifa, and
was afterwards conquered by the Genoefe. In 1736 the malcontents
rejected the Genoefe yoke, and chofe a German adventurer for their
king. After many ineffeQual ftruggles Corfica was ceded to the French.
The Romans -certainly did not highly efteem this ‘ifland, when they
* Thid, Ann. vii. p. 171,
f Journ. des Mines, Ann, iii, No.4. p. 41.
¢ Young; i. 379. ,
felected
| OM feted it as a
eae provi
dominions ; and as
united to France, i
in the defcription, t
that country.
name of Belgie Gau
the Tungri, the N
: # La Croix, i, 5ay,,
cographer, §¢ th
Oe full of mox
lies, neverthelefs,
monds *."”
The ifles called
naked appearance
however, contain ;
Yomer’s ifle of C
On the weftern
E niles long by two
by Richard I. k.
contituted a porti
noted for an exped
jsa {mall and infig
remarkable in the \
two in breadth.
it is about nine mi
which, with the fo
Uthant, or Oueffa:
towards the weft, |
nine in circumferen
Several other {mall
cou, about feven i
once in our pofleff
Norman faint, Maz
Names.—E xtent.—
Religion. — Gove
Importance and J
rature——Educati¢
land Navigation.
—Face of the
—Forefts.— Bota
tural Curiofities.
to the houfe o
Names.) The
ranks, this count
quare
bd of
of a
neath
yinter
f the
ever,
larity
been
erally
rtant,
events
mutt
p afled
frica,
» and
intents
their
re nch.
they
FRANCE. 135
« iecled it as a place of exile; and, according to a modern French
eographer, ‘the air of Corfica is thick and unwholefome, the ters
ritory full of mountains, of little fertifity, and ill cultivated: the val-
jes, neverthelefs, produce corn, and the hills wine, fruits, and al-
nds *.
"The ifles called Hyeres, near Toulon, have at prefent a barren and
naked appearance, and only prefent fome melancholy pines+. They,
however, contain fome botanic riches, and may claim the fame of being
Yomer’s ifle of Calypfo. :
On the weftern coalt firft occurs the ifle of Oleron, about fourteen
niles long by two broad, celebrated for a code of maritime laws iflued
by Richard I. king of England, of whofe French territory this ifle
conttituted a portion, To the N. is the ifle of Ré, oppofite Rochelle,
noted for an expedition of the Englifh in the feventeenth century. Yeu
jsa {mall and infignificant ifle, followed by Noirmoutier, which became
remarkable in the war of -La Vendée, being «bout eight miles long and
twoin breadth. Bellifle has been repeatedly attacked by the Englith:
it is about nine miles long and three broad, furrounded by fteep rocks,
which, with the fortifications, render the conqueit difficult. The ifle of
Uthant, or Oueffant, is remarkable as the furtheft headland of France,
towards the weft, being about twelve miles from the continent, and about
nine in circumference, with feveral hamlets, and about 600 inhabitants.
Several other fmall:ifles may be paffed in filence, but thofe of St. Mar-
cou, about feven miles S, E. of La Hogue, may +e mentioned as being
once in our poffeffion: they received their name, it is believed, from a
Norman faint, Marcoul, abbot of Nantouille, who died in 558.
a
NETHERLANDS,
Names.—Extent.—Original Population.—-Hiftorical Epochs.—Antiquitics.
Religion. — Government. —Laws. — Population. — Revenue. — Political
Importance and Relations —Manners and Cufloms.—Language.—Lite-
rature——Education.—Univerfities.—Cities and Towns.—Edifices.-—In-
land Navigation.— Manufadurés and Comm:rce.—Climate and Seafons.
—Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture.—Riv.rs.— Mountains.
—Fore/ts.— Botany.—»Zoology.— Mineralogy.— Mineral Watert.—Na-
tural Curiofities. .
Tae provinces of the Netherlands which were fornierly fubje&
to the houfe of Auftria, have been recently annexed to the French
dominions ; and as this fertile territory may probably continue to be
united to France, it becomes neceffary to ufe as much brevity as poffible
in the defcription, that it may not be difproportionate to the account of
that country. *
Naas] The Netherlands in ‘general were anciently known by the
name of Belgic Gaul, the chief inhabitante of this part being the Menapii,
the Tungri, the Nervii, and the Morini. After. the irruption of the
ranks, this country formed part of Neuftria, or the new kingdom, (the
a Le Croix, i. 529, For the Ifle of Elha, fee Italy, + Young's France, i. 105.
i ; K 4 ancient
“s
Vf ~\
i
WV
Za
So,
s=
. ini
ad s - 23
fe) daasi
ge eI = =
so . LX =ll ra %
ae 7. Si : 3
2 ih
NA
») partly be.
0t arin ;
Y arofe oh
of Hainaut
rrain and
hefe and
he dukes of
8 worthy of
lands paffed
ted from the
e about 185
boundary of
“he extent js
4,000.
Itic, but was .
ithed by the
traced with
ater Roman
The events
F potentates
Netherlands
.) and were
unfuccefsful
Bs owever,
fouthern
territory of
norable, and
pnuments of
f the wealth
ions,
NETHERLANDS. 139
grenae of the Netherlands fcarcely defrayed the expences of government,
ydthe various extortions of the French rulers cannot afford fufficient
jtatocompute. an equitable and lafting revenue. The political import~.
yce and relations of thefe provinces are now immerged in thofe of tie
French republic.
MANNERS ANDCusToMs. ] The manners and cuftoms of the Nether-
nds partake Of thofe of their neighbours, the Dutch and French, the
egm of the one being tempered by the vivacity of the other. The
wer claffes were fond of religious pageantry, and much addicted to the
fuperftitious obfervances of the Catholic fyftem. The Flemith language
kes of the German and of the Dutch.
" LITERATURE. } Thefe provinces boaft of early literature, after their
converfion to Chriftianity in the feventh century, in various chronicles and
lives of faints ; but in modern times they have rarely produced writers of
t talents. The native language remains uncultivated, and the chief
juthors have ufed the Latin orthe French. Fraiffart was born at Valen-
cennes, in French Flanders; Philip de Comines, at the town fo called;
sbout eight miles to the N. of Lifle, and fituated in the fame divifion.
Lipfius, a man of confiderable erudition, was born near Bruffels. ‘But in
eral the fouthern Netherlands are more eminent in artifts; and the
Frited Provinces in literary charaéters.
EpvucaTion.} The education was negle&ed as in moft Catholics coun.
tries, where the Jefuits in vain attempted to bring it toa level with that
of the Proteftant ftates. The univerfities, which inno country are of
equal importance with the {chools, were, however, numerous, confi
the extent of the country. Exclufive of Tournay (Dornick), which has
been long fubje&*to the French, there were otliers at Douay and St.
Omer, much frequented by the Englith Catholics ; and one of ftill greater
cdebrity at Louvain, founded in 142 ‘. :
Citizs and Towns.] The three chief cities in what were called the
Auftrian Netherlands, are Brirffels, Ghent, and Antwerp. ‘The capital
city of Bruffels {till contains about 80,000 inhabitants, and is beautified
by a noble fquare, one fide of which is occupied with a vaft guildhall ; and
by numerous churches and fountains. It is fituated on the {mall river Sen,
or Senne, which runs into the Dyle and the Scheld. It is knownas early
as the tenth century, and in the fourteenth was furrou with walls.
The — palace, the wonted refidence of the governor of the Nether.
lands, difplays confiderable tafte and magnificence.
Ghent contains about 60,000 fouls, and the circumference of the walls
iscomputed at 15 miles, as it is built on a number of little ilands formed
by four rivers and many canals, and includes gardens, and even fields,
Some of the ftreess are and well paved, but only a few churches
now deferve attention.
The inhabitants of Antwerp are computed at 50,000, the fud remains
of great population and profperity. This city, being placed upon the noble
ehuary of the Scheld, and formerly the chief mart of Flemifh cammerce,
fe eo 8 a citadel, erected by the fanguinary duke of Alva. The
is excellent, and the fuppofed impediments found to be fabulous,
The ftreets, houfes, and churches, are worthy of the ancient fame of the
city. The exchange is faid to have aff the pattern for that of
London. The churches are decorated with many paintings by Rubens,
Vandyke, and other Flemith matters. In 1568 the trade 1s fuppofed to
have been at its greateft height 5 and the number of inhabitants was com-
puted at 300,000. It ftill contains d number of the rich defcendants of
she ancient merchants; with fome commerce, and a few flourifhing manu.
1 faecuree,
338 NETHERLANDS.
fatures, particularly of lace and linen. Of the other principal
Mons is computed at 25,c00 inhabitants ;. Bruges, ‘and fone ae
peo a Luxembourg at 12,0003 Roermond at 10,000; Limbourg at
Coo.
Sza-ports. ] The fea-coaft of Flanders, the maritime province, confit
chiefly of fandy hills and downs, and has few inlets, as moit of the aistes
flow into the Scheld. There are, however, two ports which deferve par.
ticular notice. The Sluys*, called by the French L’Eclus, derives its
name from the fluices, by which the circumjacent country may be laid
under water. Guicciardini fays, that the haven of Sluys was capable of
containing 500 fhips. The port and population now. yield greatly to thofe
of Oftend. This latterhaven has been confiderably: frequented {ince the
Scheld was abandoned. The town is {till computed to contain 14,000
fouls, though it fuffered greatly by the famous fiege which terminated in
1604, when it was gallantly defended by Sir Francis Vere, at the head of
a few Englith troops. Many Englith families were fettled here before
Oitend fella prey to the French.
Eptrices.] In general it may be obferved that, even at the prefent
day, every traveller is impreffed with furprize, not only at the number
but the great extent of the Flemith cities, towns, and even villages ; in
which refpe& the Netherlands exceed every country in Europe, only
excepting the United Provinces. The chief edifices are the cathedrals,
churches, and monatteries; though afew caitles, belonging to ancient
families, or rich merchants, ufed to attract fome notice ; the tatte of the
latter buildings being faithfully copied in the Flemith landfcapes, and more
remarkable for little prettinefs, peaked roofs, fanftatic ornaments, the
muddy moat, and draw-bridge, than for grandeur of deiign, or amenity
of fituatien.
INLAND NAVIGATION. ] Idle would be the attempt even to enumerate
the canals which interfeé thefe provinces in all directions. Some of them
date even from the tenth century, and the canal from Bruffels to the Scheld
is of the fixteenth. Other important canals extend from Ghent, Antwerp,
Oftend, and other cities and towns, efpecially in the weftern diftricts ; but,
under the Auftrian domination, thefe important means of intercourfe were
fhamefully neglected.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. | The manufactures and commerce
of the Netherlands, for along period fuperior to any in the weit of Eu.
rope, have fuffered a radical and total decline, owing partly to the other
powers entering into competition, and partly to the eftablithment of free.
dom in the United Provinccs, whence Amiterdam arofe upon the ruins
of Antwerp. What little commerce remains is chiefly inland to Ger.
many; the external employing very few native veffels.. . The Eaft India
Company eftablifhed at Oftend was fupprefled by the jealoufy of England
and other powers ; and the chief commerce was afterwards carried onb
the Englith eftablifhed in that city. The prefent trade is chiefly with
America. Yet of the manufactures a few fragments reman: Cambray,
long fubje& to the French, és ftill renowned for the cambrics which
thence derived their name; as ‘Tournay, or Dornick, was anciently famous
for the fineft linens. At Bruges there are ftill fome manufactures of
broad fays, baize, and other.woollens; confiderable fabrics of broad cloth,
druggets, fhalloons, aud ftockings, were conducted at St. Omers, chiefly
* Sluys belonged to the United Provinces, but is here mentioned, confidering the
Netherlands to the Rhine us an appendage of France. Nieuport, @ little filhing town,
fcarcely deferves notice, -
with
with wool §
Ane linen 4
which ftill ¢
fax, even
confumptio
* become imp
is befides at
commoditie
— 5
rabl relem
voiture th
wine, whic
The face 0
{earcely be
relieve the €
in general r:
more often
the ftate of
arden of
England.
commerce ¢
the latter ac
its moft ufe
of agricult
itmaintains
the cole, th
attract thei
years, ever
they {till po
weeds, and
the author «
culture.
RIVERS.
that it will |
Rhine belon
of the front
the county
Scheld, whi
hitter near .
in the count
courfe of tl
timated at :
Namur, anc
the Dermes
theS. Mo
it would ind
courle be tl
memoration.
Mounta
ties of Nam
banks of th
i
1
* The Schel
ment of the Ai
al towns,
. each at
bourg at
z) confitts
he rivers
erve par,
lerives its
y be laid
apable of
r to thofe
fince the
n 14,000
nated in
e head of
re before
e prefent
number,
ages; in
pe, only
ithedrals,
> ancient
tte of the
and more
ents, the
| amenity
numerate
e of them
e Scheld
Antwerp,
3; but,
fe were
ommerce
t of Eu.
he other
t of free.
he ruins
to Ger.
aft India
England
ed on b
fly with
ambray,
8 which
y famous
tures of
ad cloth,
» chiefly
ing the
bing town,
with
NETHERLANDS. 139
qth wool fmuggled from England. But the chief’ manufactures are of
se linen and ‘laces, at Mechlin, Bruffels, Ghent, Antwerp, Louvain,’
which ftill enrich the nic around, and induce the farmers to cultivate
fax, even on the pooreft foils. The Netherlands produce, for home
confumption, abundance of corn and vegetables; ‘and the coal mincs would
* tecome important, if the opera:ions were fkilfully condufted. There
is befides abundance of turf for fuel, with iron, porcelain clay, and other
modities. - .
oomeate AND SEasons, &c.]} The climate of the Netherlands confide-
nbly refembles that of the fouth of England, and is more remarkable for «
mihufe sian for warmth ; yet the duchy of Luxembourg produces fome
yiney which probably has the anfterity of the Rhenifh, without its fpirit.
The face of the country is in general level, and the femblance of hills can
fearcely be difcovered, except towards the ealt, where a few elevations
relieve the eye from the general flatnefs of the other regions. The foil is
in general rich {andy loam, fometimes interfperfed with fields of clay, but
more often with large {pacesof fand. Such has been, even in diftant ages,
the ftate of agriculture, that the Netherlands were long eftecmed the very
garden of Europe, a praife which they ‘ftill fhare with Lombardy and
England. No {tronger proof can be adduced of the advantages which
commerce confers on agriculture, than this country, which evinces that
the latter advantage chiefly arifes from commercial opulence employed in
its moft ufeful direétion. Accurate obfervers repeatedly praife the ftate
of agriculture in the Netherlands, and point out many advantages which
itmaintains over that of England. ‘The repeated crops of excellent clover,
the cole, the turnips, the clean crops of flax, barley, and oats, defervedly
attract their attention, The agriculture has been celebrated for thefe 600
years, ever fince their commerce and manufactures became eminent; and
they {till poffefs the effentials of good hufbandry, in the deftru€tion of
weeds, and perpetual crops. In pafling through Flanders, in 1805,
the author of this work was delighted with the perfection of the agri-
culture. '
gh The Netherlands are watered by fo many rivers and canals,
that it will
Rhine belongs to Germany, paffing at a confiderable diltance to the W.
of the frontier; and but a {mall extent of the Meufe, or Maes, pervades
the county of Namur, in thefe Netherlands. The chief river is the
Scheld, which receives two other flreams, the Lys and the Sealpe, the
hitter near Mortagne, the former near Ghent. All thefe rivers arife
in the county of Artois, from no cenfiderable elevation; and the whole
courfe of the Scheld, or Trench Efcaut, cannot be comparatively ef-
timated at above 120 miles *. The Dyle rifes not farto the N. W. of
Namur, and joins the Scheld above Niel, after receiving from. the E.
the Dermer, the Nette or Nethe, from the N. and the Senne from
theS. Moft of the other rivers yield in. importance to the canals, and
it would indeed be difficult in many initantes to determine whether their
courfe be the work of nature or art. There is no lake worthy of com-
memoration. -
Mountains, &c.}] Though there be little ridges of hills in the coun-
ties of Namur and Luxembourg, the traveller muft proceed to the diftant
banks of the Rhine before he meets with any elevation that can deferve
* The Scheld properly rifes about eight miles N. of St, Quintin, in the modern depart-
ment of the Aifne, : the
é fufficieut to mention only a féw of the chief tlreams. The .
140 NETHERLANDS.
the name even of a {mall mountain. ‘There are, however, feveral wood,
even in the centre of Flanders; and in Brabant is the foreft of Soigne
further to the E.and S. are immenfe forefts, which almoft Hainaut
and Luxembourg, from Valenciennes to Treves, forming ftriking remaing
of the ancient foreft of Ardennes.
Borany.} The vegetable productions of the Catholic Netherlands dif.
fer in no refpeét from thofe\of Holland, and almoft all the plants that are
natives of this country may be met with in the fandy and marthy diftria,
of the fouth-eaft coaft of England. A few fpecies, indeed, which are rare
with us, are of frequent occurrence in the Netherlands, particularly the
marth ragwort, in fhallow ditches; field eryngo, in t plenty by the fide
_ Of the roads; and the elegant fringed water lily, adorning the canals, ang}
ether deep flow ftreams. ; ;
The zoology of the Netherlands affords no remarkable materials. The
breed of hories and cattle is efteemed for fize.
Mingratocy.] So Bsc a country cannot be fuppofed to fupply
many minerals: yet coal, perhaps the moft precious of them all, is'found *
in feveral diftri€ts, and the ingenuity of the French has been exerted in
an improvement of the operations. In the county of Namur are alfy
found lead and copper; and Hainaut‘affords iron and flate. From its
iron works Luxembourg derives its chief wealth; and. the foreft of |
Ardennes is {till renowned for the metal of war. Marble.and alabatter
are alfo found in the eaftern diftriGts. :
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Extent. Boundaries. Names.——Original Population. Progreffve
Goograpty and prefent Boundaritt.— Provinces.-Hiflorical Epochs and
ntiquaties. ‘
HE Ruffian empire is, perhaps, the moft extenfive that
Exrsnt.] T ever exifted ;\the length beng about 9,200 Engliih
miles, and the breadth 2,400 *.
Bounpanizs.) By the final partition of Poland, European Ruffia
now extends from river Dniefter to the Uralian mountains, that
grand chain which naturally divides Europe from Afia, a length of
about. 1600 miles; and in breadth above 1000 Englith miles, ‘The ex-
tent is computed at about 1,200,000 {quare miles.
Names.] Even the European part of the Ruffian empire embraces
many ancient kingdoms and ftates; but the chief name, that of Ruflia,
© Tooke's View of the Ruff, Emp. 9 vols, 6vo, is p. 6,
i VISSTAm BUROPE.
SS
i
&
{
| | /RISSTAm EUROPE
RY
tN A TE NS I VE AB me cee ee OE OF
Se TTR
\ w
Rol
LA]
Ms
~ r ’ <. ?
e :
? rT lial ‘
Py nd a
3
s
.
fhall onl
wards th
pire, the
ninth
imported
Jn the fix
enlighten
unaccoun
an improp
finally exp
Oriai
part of the
form an e:
Goths on
weft, mutt
Europe: :
form the
of the anc
ftrength.
Proares
ograph
i
unknown to
inthe Byz
hyrogenitu
the Ruffian
confined on
of Pruffia,
Euxine fea.
wards famous
memorable fc
The vittori
Kiow about
ruined by thy
empire. The
~ little embarra:
which remain
when Ruflia e:
fent extent an
was Ivan IV.,
the Tatar kit
His fucceffor,
which has bee
known till the
tended her lim
‘ample third of
fertile of men |
Divisions.
in regard to its
the empire int
therine f
the pki»
wing yeap th:
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. t4f
fhall only be here corifidered. Amidit the grand conifux of nations to-
wards the welt, which attended the decline and fall of the Roman Em-
pire, the Slavonic tribe of Roffi efcaped the obfervation of hiftory till the
ninth century 5 and it is uncertain whether the term were native, or
imported by the Scandinavian chiefs who founded the Ruffian monarchy *.
Jn the fixteenth century, when Ruffia firft attra@ted the obfervation of
ealightened Europe, we find that the new appellation of Mufcovia had
usaccountably pafled among foreigners from the capital to the kingdom;
an impropriety which tong maintained its ground, and has not even yet
finally expired. ?
ene POPULATION.] The grand population of the European
part of the Ruffian empire is well known to be Slavonic. The Slavons
form an extenfive original race of mankind, radically diftin& from the
Goths on the one hand, who, as poffeffing the countries more to the
weft, mutt have preceded the Slavons in their pafflage from Afia into
form the ‘Tatars, and other nations on the eaft. ‘They are the Sarmate
of the ancients, and were ever remarkable for perfonal elegance and
{trength.
Precnastive GEOGRAPHY.] To enter much into the progreffive
geography of the Ruffian empire, would be to write a hi ory of its
i Till the fixteenth century this empire continued almoft
unknown to the reft of Europe, and its geography mutt be faintly traced
inthe Byzantine annals, paiticularly in the work of Conftantine Pore
phyrogenitus on the adminiftration of the empire. Even at that Eo
the Ruffians held the {pacious province around Mofcow; and t ough
confined on the eaft, extended their power to the Baltic, and the vicinity
of Pruffia. ‘Towards the S. theriver Boryfthenes conduted them to the
Euxine feas. The capitals were Novgorod and Kiow ; the former after-
memorable for its catacombs. ‘
The victories of the Tatars conftrained the Ruffian princes to abandon
Kiow about the middle of th: twelfth a and that ci
ty paving been
ruined by the Tatars in the thirteenth, Mofcow became the feat of
empire, ‘The geography of Ruffia, in the middle ages, becomes not a
' little embarraffed from its a ‘{ub-divifion into {mall monarchies,
which remained in a ftate of vaffalage to the Tatars till the year 1462,
when Ruflia emerged from this eclipfe, and gradually acquired its pre-
fent extent and confequénce. The great founder o the Ruffian wer
was Ivan IV., who rei from the year 1534 to 1584, and fubdued
the Tatar a of Aftracan, and fome proyinces on the N. W.
His fucceffor, Feodor I., turned his arms towards Siberia, a country
known till the year 1730. In modern times, Ruffia has ually ex-
tended her limits at the expence of the Turks; and the addition of an
‘ample third of Poland has afforded her a fource ftill more ‘ftable, and
fertile of men and power.
Divistons.] No country in Europe has undergone fo many alterations
in regard to its politico-geographical divifion as Roffia. Peter I. divided
the ee into eight governments.’ In the year 1763, when Ca-
therine IT. began a great reformation in the colleges of the empire and
the provincial chanceries, they had increafed to ghteen: In the fol-
lowing year this. number was increafed by two; and in 1773, by the
bed Gibbon, X, 219,
fir
which has been, however, mott flowly inveftigated, and indeed fearcely
4
Europe: and equally diftinguithable in language, ‘perfon, and manners, ‘
wards famous for its alliance with the Hanfeatic league: the latter ftill
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
firft divifion of Poland,| two more were added. The empire confifted of
thefe twenty-two governinents, when ftadtholderfhips or viceroyalties
were introduced in. 1776. . Before the eftablifhment of them was fully
completed, Ruffia was enlarged by the acceffion of the Crimea. Of
thefe twenty-three provinces, forty-two ftadtholderfhips were formed ; and
this divifion exifted from 1786,to 1794. In the years 79 and 1706
their number, by new conquefts on the Dneitter and in Poland, and by
the fubjection of Courland, was increafed to fifty. The eltablithment
of thefe eight new governments changed the political geography in the
whole of the fouthern, and in part of the weltern diltriéts of Ruff,
But fcarcely had thefe extenfive alterations been made, when, in‘ the :
year 1796, the whole of the political divifion hitherto. eftablithed wag
changed, and the fifty governments reduced to forty-one. Other altera.
tious were afterwards made; but on the ‘acceflion of the prefent em.
peror Alexander I, he thought proper to revive moft of thofe govern.
ments.which had been abolifhed under the reign of his predeceffor. An
ukafe for this purpofe appeared in the month of September 1801, in
confequence of which the forty-one exifting governments were imcreafed
by five, which had all before exifted; afterwards three were added,
which with Grufia made the number again fifty. ‘The following is an
enumeration of the governments as they itood in 1803.
143
1. Mofkva. 2. St. Peterfburg., 3. Novogorod. 4. Olonetz,
5- Archangel. 6. Pikove. 7. Smolen. 8. Tula. _ 9 Twer,
. 10. Kaluga. 11. Jaroflaf.. 12. Koftroma. 13. Vludimir. 14. Vo.
logda.~ 15. Nifneygorod. 16. Wiutka. 17. Kafan. 18. Perm,
19. Tobolfk. 20. Tomfk. 21. Irkutfk. 22. Orenburg. 23. Sim.
birkk, 24. Penza. 25. Saratof. 26. Aftrakan. 27. Caucafus,
28. Voronifh. 29. Tambof. 30. Razan. 31. Kurfk. 32. Orel,
33- The Slobodith Ukrain. 34. Ekatermaflaf. © 35. Turia,
36, Cherfon (Nikolayef.) 37: Poltowa. 38. Tichernigof. 30. Kief,
40. Podolia. 41. Volhynia. 42. Grodno. 43. Vilna. 44. Vitebkk.
45+ Mogilef. 46. Minik.- 47. Courland. 48. Livonia. 49. Eftho.
nia. 50. Finland. 51. Grutia*.
Hisroricat Epocus.} The following appear to be the chief hiftorical
epochs of this mighty empire:
1, The foundation of the kingdom by Ruric, a Scandinavian chief,
. A. D. 862. His defcendants held the fceptre above. 700 years.
2. The naval expeditions of -the Ruffians againft Conftantinople, in
the tenth century. :
3. In the fame century the baptifm of Olga the queen, and the fub-
fequent converfion of the Ruffians to Chriftianity.
4 The invafion of the Tatare under Batu Khan in 1236, and the fub-
fequent seri. of Ruffia. ,
5+ The-abolition of the power of the Tatars: by Ivan III. who died
1505..
a rd The reign of Ivan IV. furnamed ‘ Bafilowitz, known to weftern
hiftorians by the ftyle of the tyrant John Bafilides.
7. The death of the Czar Feodor in' 1508, with whom ‘expired the
‘ Jong progeny of Ruric. . Several impoltors afterwards appeared, under
the na f Demetrius, the murdered brother of this:fovereign.
8.. The acceffion of the dynafty of Romanow, 161 3,>in the perfon of
Michael Feodorowitz, {prung in the female line from Ivan IV. He was
followed by his'fon Alexis, father of Peter the Great.
* Rufsiand unter Alexander dem i by H. Storck, Peterfourgh, 1804.
, y:
g. The rei
portant epoct
ceding reigns
our admiratic
and that the |
rand as is co
10 The 1
among the mc
rfonal crime
ANTIQUITI
afford great. vi
difcovered, ‘co
Kiow were pe
replete with m
extent, dug, as
do not feem to
The convert
by the erect
architects were
haps no count:
ancient art thar
Religion. — Eccle
Colonies: ——,
Relations.
RELIGIon.}
this ftate may b
EccLestast1
had ufurped ex
prerogative ; b
and the patriarg
court. The cle
ticularly exem
fecular vad ee
fecular clergy.
computed at 1
fuppofed to be
favourite reforts
induttry. The
GovERNMEN
always defpotic,
fovereign. Wh
cature. The’
be military ; ang
army.
ted of
ralties
fully
1; and
1796
id be
hment
in the
Ruffia,
in-the
d wag
altera.
nt em.
FOVEre
. An
S01, in
creafed
added,
g is an
jlonetz.
Twer,
4. Vo.:
P erm.
3. Sim.
aucafus,
». Orel.
Tauria,
p. Kief.
itebfk,
Eftho-
iftorical
n chief,
nhople, in
the fub-
the fub-
who died
b> weltern
pired the
d, under
perfon of
He was
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 148
g. The reign of Peter I. has been juftly confidered as a moft im-
rtant epoch in Ruffian hiftory ; but on reading the annals of the pre-
ceding reigns from that of Ivan IV. it will be perceived that a part of
our admiration for Peter arifes from our inattention to his predeceffors,
and that the light which he diffufed was far from being fo fudden and
rand as is commonly imayined.
10 The late reign of Catherine II. deferves to be commemorated
among the mott brilliant epochs in the Ruffian annals; nor muft her
rfonal crimes exclude her from the lift of great and able fovereigns.
Antiquities: ] Of ancient monuments, Rufiia cannot be ihopeded to
aford great varicty. Sometimes the tombs of their pagan anceltors are
difcovered} containing weapons and ornaments. ‘The catacombs at
Kiow were perhaps formed in the Pagan period, though they be now
replete with marks of Chriftianity. ‘They are labyrinths of confiderable
extent, dug, as would appear, through a mafs of hardened clay, but they
do not feem to contain the bodies of the monarchs *.
The converfion of the Ruffians muft of courfe have been followed
by the erection of many churches; bunt as Byzantine, or Italian
architects were employed, thofe edifices have but few peculiarities. Per-
haps no country of confiderable-extent. can afford fewer monuments of
ancient art than Ruffia.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Ecclefiaftical Geography.—Government.—Laws.—Population—
Colonies. ——-Army.——Navy.——Revenues.——Political Importance and
Relations.
-" FP P’HE religion of Ruffia is that of the Greek church,
RELIGION, ] T of clic fince the fall of the Byzantine empire,
this ftate may be confidered as the chief fource and power. ,
EccLESIASTICAL GEOGRAPHY. ] The patriarch: of the Ruffian church
had ufurped extraordinary powers, to\ the great injury of the Imperial
prerogative ; but the fpirit of Peter I. broke thefe ignominious bonds,
and the patriarchs have fince become complaifant inftruments of the
court. ‘The clergy are very numerous, and have feveral privileges, par-
ticularly exemption from taxes. They have been computed at 67,000,
fecular and regular. ‘The Greek religion permits the marriage of the
fecular clergy. The cathedrals and parifh churches in the empire are
computed at 18,350; the monafteries at 4803; nunneries 74; monks
fuppofed to be 71300 3 nuns 3000. The monafteries have not been fuch
favourite reforts fince Peter I. and Catherine II. opened the fources of
induttry. The bifhoprics amount to about 30;
GoveRNMENT.] The government, of Ruffia a to have been
always defpotic, there being no legiflative power diftin& from that of the
fovereign. _ What is called the fenate is only the fupreme court of judi-
cature. ‘The whole frame of the government may be pronounced to
be military ; and nobility itfelf is only virtually eftimated by rank in the
army. :
* Herbin.. Crypts Kijovienfes,
mH
By
144 RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
_ Byan wkafe iffued by the prefent emperor Alexander in the month of
June 1801, the rank of Senator is declared the higheft in the kingdom,
As the guardian of the laws, the fenate watches over the general execu,
tion of them ; has a vigilant eye to the colleting of the public duties:
provides means for relieving the neceflities of the people, for maintainine
public peace and tranquillity, and for preventing all proceedin contrary
to law in all the inferior departments. It has the revifion of all affairs
both civil and criminal. From the decifions of the fenate there isno appeal
Torture was entirely abolifhed in 1801.
Laws.}] Immediately on the fall of the Roman empire, we find the
Gothic tribes feduloufly colle€&ting and publithing their peculiar codes of
laws, but it would be difficult to difcover any Shavonic code till the fix.
teenth century, when they emanated, not from the national council, but
from the arbitrary will of the monarch. The firft Ruffian code dates from
the reign of Ivan IV. and the late emprefs had the merit of drawing up
a new code with her owm hands.
Poputation.] The population of Ruffia is fo diffufe, and fpread
over fo wide an exteat of territory, that very oppofite opinions have beer
entertained concerning it. By moft writers it was only eftimated as equal
to that of France, or.about 25,000,0003 and it was-at the fame time
fuppofed that the recent acquifitions in Poland might add 5,000,000 to
the amount: but in 1783, more exact eftimates were prepared; and in
the 41 vice-royalties, then compofing the empire, the ftate of male inha.
bitants * was as follows : ;
Merchants, _ — 107,408
Burghers, —_ — 293979:
Odnodvortzi, and free countrymen, 773,65
Exempt from taxes, — — 310,830
Crown boors, — — 4,664,603
Private boors, ~ eo 6,678,239
12,838,529.
The number of females being fuppofed to equal that of the males, a
population would arife of 25,677,000. ‘The moft important acceflion to
the Ruffian population arifes from the partitions of Poland, which, with
{mall acquifitions from the Porte, have been thus ftated + ;
At the firft partition of Poland in 1773 — 1,226,966
From the Porte in the years 1774 and 1783 ‘— 171,610
From the Porte in the year 1791 _ =— 425708
At the fecond partition of Poland 1793 _ 317450663
By the fubje€tion of Courland = — 387,922
At the third partition of Poland 1795 — 1,407,402
6,982,273
The following account, according to Mr. Tooke, prefents the whole
population of the empire in 1799:
By the revifion of 1783 there were in the governments
com rating the female bate equal to the male of regiftered
ons
i 25,677,000
© Even male babes are included in the cspitation tax, under the denvinination of their
t Tooke, i, 927, The
The amount
according to th
For the num
fourth revifion,
bility allow lef
Confequentl
might have inh;
According t
and obfervation
Ruffia, this ma
more than hal
far as poffible
half of this fur
nution it may
mortality, as t
an increafe.of 21
of all afcending
total of
The new acyt
fent nine vice-rc
Vofnefenfk, Pox
Slonim, contain,
already mentione
Confequently
efimate, the poy
fent to be
Of this popul:
half to Siborie,
of Perm, Vfa, ]
fituited on the
might, perhaps,
Rule, It ie Pp
Ruilia, have {we
reign.
ONDITION OF
or flaves of their
ceive from each
may go where he
this purpofe he is
tv fome towa or
the whole fummer
fufficient to fup
alfo to pay his ob
Thole who re
other rural occur
branches of manu:
_A proprietor ne
nifhed with a pafe
The Ruffiane are ¢
think of emigrati
bad treatment or a
* Some of the nobi
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 145
The amount of Kozacks of the Don and the Euxine,
according to the moft authentic private accounts at leaft
For the numbered tribes and claffes, at the time of the
fourth revifion, we cannot without the higheft improba- 1,500,000
bility allow lefs than i se
Confequently the Ruffian empire, in the year 7839}
might have inhabitants amounting altogether to
According to the refults.deducedt from experiments
and obfervations on the fruitfulnefs and mortality in
Ruflia, this mafs mutt, of itfelf, have increafed annually
more than half a million. If, ip order to keep as
far as pofible from all exaggeration, we deduc& the
half of this furplus of births, to allow for the dimi- >
nution it may have fuffered by an extraordinary |
220,000
279397000
3,000,000
mortality, as by war; there remains by every year
anincreafe.of 250,000 new citizens, which, exclufively
of all afcending proportion, in 12 years makes a fum
total of i
The new acyuilitions fince the year 1783, or the pre-
{ent nine vice-royalties of Taurida, Minik, Bratz Sil
Vofnefenfk, Podolia, Volhynia, Courland, Vilna, and $ 5975$,000
Slonim, contain, according to a legitimated ftatement
already mentioned,
Confequently we may admit, by the moft moderate
etimate, the population of the Ruffian empire at pr 36,152,000
fent to be ‘.
Of this population Mr. Tooke affigns only about three millions and a
half to Siberia, or Afiatic Ruffia, which contains the five governments
of Perm, Vfa, Kolhyvan, Tobolfk, and Irkuthk; bur Perm is itfelf
ftuited on the European fide of the Uralian mountains, fo that we
might, perhaps, allow even 33,000,000 for the population of European
Ruffia. It is probable, however, that the German authors, penfioned in
Ruifia, have {welled the accounts of the population, to flatter the fove-
reign.
ONDITION OF THE ‘PEASANTS. ] The Ruffian peafants are the ferfs
or flaves of their mafters*. But in general each proprietor agrees to re-
ceive from each vaffal a certain fum annually, called obrok, and then
may go where he pleafes and labour for himfelf and his family. For
this purpofe he is furnifhed with a pafs, and leaving his village he repairs
tu fome towa or city, even as far as Livonia or Efthonia, where he works
the whole fummer, as a mers, ditcher, &c. and gains as much as is
fuficient to fupport himfelf and family during the winter months, and
alfo to pay hie obrok. ;
Thole who remain at home employ themfelves in agriculture and
other rural occupations, In winter they apply to weaving and other
branches of manufacture.
A proprietor never cares where his vaffals go, provided they are fur.
ni fhed with a pafs and pay him the obrok or tax impofed upon them.
The Ruffians are too much attached to their country and religion to ever
think of emigrating ; and the peafants, even when they are obliged by
bad treatment or other caufes to change thelr mafter or place of abode,
* Some of the nobility in Ruffia have begun lately to give freedom to their flaves.
L choofe
.
I AE I a OIC ANGE EERE SENTENCE ACN REO TTT AR IP OER A
146 RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
?
choofe rather to unite themfelves to the Coffacs of the Don than to pafs
the boundaries of the empire. Defertion even to other countries is very the fum of
uncommon among the foldiers. only 19957
Each boor, aecording to his condition and expertnefs, muft pay to It appe
his mafter‘five, ten, or more rubles annually. The crown peafants there. were eltab
fore, who pay only three rubles, confider themfelves as very fortunate, +
Eftates properly are villages, called Derewni, and the property of a B
nobleman is eftimated according to tlie fize of the village and the number EI
of men it contams. But very often one village belongs to feveral noble.
men or proprietors ; and then it is faid fuch a perfon poffeffes 50, another G
160, a third 150, &c. fouls, under which appestien males are always ; e
underftood. The value of flaves varies with that of provifions, in Sw
14747 Lerch purchafed two men at Mofco and two horfes for 60 rubles ; Pr
and this he confidered as dear. At prefent (1797) a healthy ftrong man "
is worth 300, 400, and even more rubles; a female from 100 to 1 50 and Cc
200. Inthe bank belonging to government for lending money, a flave b + gies
is taken in pawn for 40 rubles. oalt o “
Befides the obrok, all boors, whether belonging to the crown or to pe nd M
private perfons, muft pay alfa a poll-tax or head-money, which at pte : er Part
fent (1797) in fome places amounts to a ruble for a man *. an le Rite
Cotonists.]} It is well known that great encouragement has been be eft . od
given to foreigners to.fettle in Ruffia, hel that there are in that country N ere r
at prefent fome colonies pretty numerous. The following table will ex. in the ry. ] :
hibit a ftate of them as they were in 1803. The chief 1
Mars. Fests, rei 2
SARATOF. Colonifts in general . 19,800 —18,925 the line, but
Evangelic Brethren, called of water 3 bi
the Brotherhood of se} 253 254 The fleet of
( repta . ° REVENUE
New Russia. Menonifts ° - 869 812 000,000
Colonifts of Jofepbfthal’ - 19 186 be equal to
of Yamburgi - 10 131 amount to li
Swedih - . - 78 "1 - PoLirica
Dantzickers - - 65 61 wonder that
wabians - - 46 44 ponderant in
r Bulgarians and Greeks - . 396 370 contributed
, Lesser Russia. Colonifte - - 639 588 devoured 5
Menonitts - - 99 103 and if the
Voronisu. - - ait 173 Pruffia, it is
Livonia. . - 265 got It would c¢
Sr. Pererssura. Srednerogathi : - 108 100 hould be d
Thori - - - 1326 117 that quarter
Novo-Stratof 2 - 296 264 divifion of ¢}
Yamburgi . - 98 "0 other conting
Total - 23,629 22,695
Hence it appears that in 1803 there were eftablithed in different parts
of Ruffia 46,204 colomfte of both fexes. It ap alfo from authen-
tic documents, that government had expended in fupporting the colonif
* Rufsland’s Handel lendwirthfchaftlicke Kultur und Produ@te von W. C. Friebe. Peter:
burg, 3 vols, 1796, ‘Ke, "
> pafs
8 very
ay to
there.
unate,
y of a
umber
noble.
another
rubles ;
ng man
150 and
, a flave
m or to
h at pre-
has been
t country
e will ex-
Fepates.
18,925
riebe. Peter!
the
, | RUSSIA IN EUROPE, 147
the fum of 6,008,948 dollars, of which at that time it had received back
only 159572490 dellars. . 5 a ;
It appears, farther, that in 1803 the following number of colonifts
were eltablifhed in Ruffia ; .
‘ Mates. ° Femanes,
Bulgarians - - . . 213 216
Elbing and Maurunburg meet 534 gat.
Germans — - - 628 $29
Swifs -° - . 240 of both exes
Swifs at Grodng. . - 47 33
Prufians sg ° - 14 12
CotontEs, &e.] “Ruffia meng» ftate new in maritime affairs, cannot
boat of any colomies, nor can this name be applied to a {mall eftablifh-
ment or two in the eaftern parts of Siberia. But on the Ruffian armies
agreat part of the fate of Europe and Afia muft depend ; and the fub-
ject of courfe deferves lpia attention. Mr, Tooke eftimates the
whole amount of the Ruffian troops at 600,000; of which 500,000 may
be elteemed effective.
Navy.] The Ruffian navy confilts of feveral detached fleets, employed
in the remote feas on which the empire borders at different extremities.
The chief fleet is of courfe that of the Baltic, which confifts of about
thirty-fix fhips of the line. That in the Euxine, or Black Sea, at the
harbours of Sevaftopol and Kherfon, was computed at twelve fhips of
the line, but not of a high rate, as the Euxine affords no great depth
of water; but there are many frigates, gallies, chebecks, and gun-boats.
The fleet of gallies in the Baltic, in 1789, was eftimated at 110.
pete gp. The revenues of Ruffia are {uppofed to amount to about
0,000,000 of rubles; which, valuing the ruble at four fhillings, will
fe equal to 10,000,0001. fterling. ‘The. national debt is fuppofed to
amount to little er nothing.
- POLITICAL IMPORTANCE, &c.] With all thefe advantages it is no
wonder that the political importance and relations of Ruffia are fo pre-
ponderant in Europe and Afia, In Europe her. recent acquifitions have
contributed to render her more and, more formidable.
devoured ; Denmark and Sweden may be confidered as fubject-allies ;
and if the whole force of Ruffia were bent againft either Auftria or
Pruffia, it is hardly to be conceived that the fhock could be withftood.
It would certainly be for the intereft of Europe that the Ruffian force
fhould be diverted towarde Afia, that by meen her dominions in
that quarter her flrength may {till be more difperfed, when probably a
divifon of the empire would commence, to the lafting advantage of the
other continental powers.
Poland has been ~
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
CHAPTER III.
°
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
- Manners and Cuftoms.— Language.— Literature.— Education —Univer/;;
Cities and Towns.— Edifices.—Roads.—Inland Novpetion—Dheon:
tures and Commerce. :
s the Ruffian Empire comprifes
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. } A many diftin& races ve men, ie hi
ners of courfe muft be very various. But in the European divifion, to
which this brief account is reftri&ed, the grand diftinGtions are, a few
Laplanders on the eaft of the mountains of Olonctz, which divide Ruffig
from Sweden; the Fins of the White fea, and the Baltic; the grand
Slavonic mafs in the centre, including the Cozacks of the fouth, who
are alfo Slavonss and a few Tatars in Taurida, a beautiful region,
which forms the fouth-eaft extremity of Europe. The Laplanders are
well known to be a diminutive race, who Would be amiable from the
paftoral fimplicity of their manners, were not their perfons ugly and
dirty. The Fins are alfo rather fhort in ftature, with flat faces, dec
cheeks, dark grey eyes, a thin beard, tawny hair, and a fallow com.
plexion ; but fhe fouthern Fins, though they retain the national features,
are of fuperior appearance. There 1s a {mall diftri&t in the northern
extremity of Scandinavia, idly called Finmark; but the chief region
of the Fins is around the gulph of Finland, and thence on the fouth
of the White fea, where was, in ancient times, the celebrated region
of Parmia, by the Scandinavian writers called Biarmia, which {ome
fuppofe extended from the White fea to the mountains of Ural. The
Fine ufed to excel in fifhing, and the chace; but they are now much
‘blended with the Slavons, and have generally adopted their manners and
cuftoms.
~The Slavonic Ruffians, who conftitute the chief mafs and foul of this
empire, are generally middle fized and vigorous: the tallnefs and grace
of the Polith Slavons feem to arife from fuperior climate and foil. The
neral phyfiognomy confifts of a {mall mouth, thin lips, white teeth,
{mall eyes, a low forehead, the nofe commonly fmall, and turned up.
wards, beard very bufhy, hair generally reddith *. The expreffion of
the countenance is gravity, with good nature, or fagacity ; the gait and
geftures lively and fmpaflioned. The Ruffian is extremely patient of
hunger and thirlt ;’ and ‘his cure for all difeafes is the warm bath, or
rather vapour bath, in which the heat is above 100° of Fahrenheit’s
thermometer, Dr. Guthrie has fhewn that the Ruffians retain many
magners and cultoms derived from their Pagan anceftors, and has given
fume curious {pecimens of their fongs and moufic, which feem to be very
pleafing. He has alfo compared their dances with thofe of the Greeks;
and finds in one of them a confiderable refemblance of the wanton Ionic,
while another refembles the Pyrrhic. He obferves that the country
girls drefa in the faraphan, refembling the ancient fol, and bind up their
air with the /enta, a ribbon like the ancient vitta.. They tinge their
cheeks with the juice of the echium Italicum. When a marriage is pro-
pofed, the lover, accompanied by a friend, goes to the houfe of the
* Touke ii, 253.
bride,
it 950,000.
bride, and fays
“money,” an
of buying a w
and i a hoff
or bread and fal
repalt, fome fal
the firlt place ;
ferved; the cor
houfes are orna
ducted into ever
windows. In fe
European and £
Afatic fplendor
‘dies maintain fe
miftrefles afleep,
LANGUAGE. ]
nounce, and not
founds, and anon
than thirty-fix ; ;
Greek characters,
lnguage. Amo
jh and another
human mouth, ’
LITERATURE. |
wrfion of the er
frangers to learn
genius, it is unne
rattre. ‘The elde
martyrologies, an
ft an example o
rfident in Ruffia,
to the German |
literature, till the
alphabet, and poli
EpucatTion. ]
the court have i
utifts, .
UNIVERSITIES,
Emprefs Catherin
hoped will efcape
Peter the Great,
fuccefs.
Citigs AND To
Rufia, Mofcow,
city dates from the
pulation, though i
the houfes in Mof
it not lefs than 204
which cities cose
relidence, is faid te
but furprifing
tion on the river
* Coxe, Tr. in Pol
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 149
pride, and fays to her mother, ¢¢ fhew us your merchandize, we have got
«money,” an expreffion which is thought to refer to the ancient cuftom
i buying a wife. The Ruffians thew great attention to their nurfes,
and are {0 hofpitable that they offer to every ftranger the Khleh da fol,
or bread and falt, the fymbol of food, lodging, and prote@tion, At a
repalt, fome falt fith, or ham, and a glafs of brandy, are prefented in
the firlt places and after dinner, oats made with honey are ufually
feved; the common drink js kvafs, an acid, thin, malt liquor; the
houfes are ornamented with ftoves, and auiong the rich, by flues con-
ducted into every room, which is at the fame time guarded with double
windows. In feveral inftances the Ruffians form a curious jun@tion of
European and Afiatic manners; many of their ceremonies partake of
Afatic {plendour: the great are fond of dwarfs; and fome opulent
‘dies maintain female tellers of tales, whofe occupation is to lull their
niftrefles afleep, by ftories refembling thofe of the Arabian Nights.
LancuaGE.] The Ruffian language is extremely difficult to pro-
reunce, and not lefs difficult to acquire, as it abounds with extraordina
founds, and anomalies of every kind. ‘The charaéters amount to no lets
than thirty-fix ; and the common founds are fometimes expreffed in the
Greek characters, fometimes in characters quite unlike thofe of any other
lnguage. Among other fingularities there is one letter to exprefe the
ft, and another the fs, the latter a found hardly pronounceable by any
human mouth.
LiteRATURE.] The Ruffian literature fucceeded, as ufual, the con-
verfion of the empire to Chriftianity. As there is no inducement for
frangers to learn the language, for the purpofe of perufing works of
nius, it is unneceflary to enlarge upon it in a work of this general
nattre. ‘The elder authors are either writers of annals, or compilers of
nartyrologies, and lives of faints. Neftor, the .earlieft hiflorian, alfo
ft an example of the latter kind. In recent times the beft authors
rfident in Ruffia, fuch as Pallas, and many others have had recourfe
to the German language ; and little can be expetted from the native
literature, till the language fhall have been reduced to the more precife
alphabet, and polithed form of other European dialects.
EpucaTIon.} Education is little known or diffufed in Ruffia, though
the court have inftituted academies for the inftrution of officers and
utifts. =
Universities. ] The univerfity of Peterfburg, founded by the late
Emprefs Catherine II., is a noble inftance.of munificence, and it is
hoped will efcape the fate of the colleges, founded at Mofcow, by
oe, the Great, which do not feem to have met with the deferved
fuccels.
Citizs AND Towns.] In confidering the chief cities and towns of
Rufia, Mofcow, the ancient capital, attraéts the firft attention. This
city dates from the year 1300, and is of very confiderable extent in po-
sation though injured by a peftilence in 1771. Prior to this mortality
the houfes in cow were computed at 12,538, and the population
at not lefs than 200,000 *. Mofcow is built in the Afiatic manner, in
which cities coger a vaft {pace of ground. Peterfburg, the imperial
relidence, is faid to contain 170,000 inhabitants ; and is the well known,
but furprifing eretion of the laft century. It ftands in a marfhy fitua-
tion on the river Neva, the houfes being chiefly of wood, though there
—— Tr. in Poland, i, 351. 8v0, eftimates, from good evidence, the populstion
it 250,000.
L3 be
850 RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
be fome of brick, ornamented with white ftucco. The ftone buildings
are few ; and Peterfburg is more diftinguifhed by its’ fame, than by et
yt pooh or opulence. The nobleft public works are the quays, built
perpetual granite.
Cronftadt, ‘in the government of Peterfburg, and Kollonna, in that of
Mofcow, ate fuppofed each to contain ahout 60,000 inhabitants, Cher.
fon, in the government of Ecatharinflav, and Caffa, in Taurida, are {aid
_ each to contain 20,000; while 30,000 are afcribed to Tula, and 27,000
to Riga, a city of contiderable trade and confequence. In general the
Ruffian towns are built of wood, and prefent few remarkable edifices,
A cathedral or two, and the royal palaces and fortreffes, may deferve
a defcription better adapted to a book of travels than toa work of this
nature.
‘ INLANDNAVIGATION.] The inland navigation of Ruffia deferves more
attention, Among other laudable improvements, Peter the Great formed
the defign of eftablifhing an intercourfe by water between Peterfbur
and Perfia, by the Cafpian fea, the Volga, the Melta, and the lake of
Novgorod, &c. but this fcheme failed by the ignorance of the engineers,
During the long reign of the late emprefs many canals were dccomplithed,
or at leaft received fuch improvements that the chief honour mutt be af.
cribed to her adminiftration. The celebrated canal of Vifhnei Volothok
was in fome fhape completed by Peter, fo as to form a communication
between A ftracan and Peterfburg, the courfe being chiefly afforded by
rivers, and it was only neceffary to unite the Twertza running towards
the Cafpian, with the Shlina, which communicates with the Baltic,
The navigation is performed according to the feafon of the year, in from
a fortnight to a month, and it is fuppofed that near 4000 veffels pals
annually *. '
The canal of Ladoga, fo called, not becaufe it enters that lake, but
as winding along its margin, extends from the river Volkof to the
Neva, a {pace of 674 miles, and communicates with the former canal,
By thefe two important canals conftant intercourfe is maintained between
the northern and fouthern extremities of the empire. Another canal
leads from Mofcow to the river Don, forming a communication with the
Euxine; and the canal of Cronitadt forms a fourth. Peter the Great
alfo defigned to have united the Don with the Volga, and thus have
opened an intercourfe hetween the Cafpian and Euxine feas, and the
Baltic: and the whole empire abounds fo much with rivers that many
advantageous canals remain to be opened.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.} By thefe means the inland trade
of Ruffia has attained confidereble profperity ; and the value of her ex-
ports and imports have been long upon the increafe. Several manufac.
tures are conducted with confiderable fpirit +. That of ifinglafs, which
isa pre aration of the founds, or air bladder of the fturgeon, flourithes
on the Volga, the chief feat alfo of that of kaviar, confifting of the falted
toes of large fith. The manufadtories of oil and foap are alfo confiderabl
and Peterfburg exports great quantities of candles, befides tallow, whic
abounds in an empire fo well replenifhed with pafturage 5 nor mutt the
breweries and diftilleries be forgotten. Saltpetre is an imperial traffic
and fome fugar is refined at Peterfourg. ‘There are feveral manufacu
of paper, and of tobacco, which grows abundantly in the fouthern pro
vineces. Linen is manufatured in abundance 3 the beft comes from th
government of Archangel. Cotton is little wrought, but the filk man
e Phillips, 20. 29 t Tooke, iii, 463, ke,
fatoii
fitories are num
in Ruffia, and le
Ruflia produce
exported unbleac
rcelain. Iron
Olonetz is a gran
« The followir
For gold and f
Steel, caft-iron
ftteel
Brafs manufac
Clocks and wa
Porcelain, eart
Colours, dye f
Glafs-houfes
Linen manufaé
Cotton do.
Printed cotton:
Cotton cloths
' Paper
Ropes
— Potath
Tobacco
Sugar-houfes
Powder and {ta
Japanned wares
Woollen cloth,
Hats
Silk
Leather
Ta
“ Seventeen ne
The commerce
nection between
gorod, eltablithed
taig a Commerce
the White fea, ¢
Chinas Archang
building of Pet
ah, kaviar, tallo
linens, and other
fame defcription :
are added, matts
Baltic grain ann
and manufa&tured
The commerce
its chief exports |
*Rufsland, Ha
vertburg, 3 vole. 1794
ings
r its
uilt
at of
her.
faid
90CO
| the
ices,
ferve
this
more
rmed
bur
ke hi
eers,
ifhed,
De af.
thok
‘ation
ed by
wards
baltic,
from
8 pals
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 152
fitories are numerous ; coarfe cloths, carpets, and hats, arealfo made
in Ruffia, and leather has long been a itaple commodity. ‘
Ruffia produces vaft quantities of wax, which is, however, generally
exported unbleached ; -nor are there wanting fabrics of earthen ware and
orcelain. Iron founderies abound ; and in the northern government ot
Olonetz is a grand foundery of cannon. ‘
« The following is a ftate of the manufaétories in Ruffia in 1803 5
Number in the
: whole empire.
For gold and filver leaf, gald-lace, wire, &c. - | 39
Steel, ao n, needles, and other articles of iton and
ftee ° - - se re .
Brafs manufactories “
Clocks and watches °
Porcelain, earthen ware,
Colours, dye ftuffs, &c.
Glafs-houfes .
Linen manufac¢tories
Cotton do.
Printed cottons
Cotton cloths
' Paper
Ropes
_ Potafh
Tobacco
Sugar-houfes
Powder and ftarch
Japanned wares ° *
Woollen cloth, and other woollen articles
Hats ° . a
Silk * « %
Leather ° e é a
ee ee ee ee
s 2 fe © @ & © ow fs Fe © we © ew Pe ee 6
Total e . e a
« Seventeen new manufactories were eftablifhed in 1803 *.””
The commerce of Ruffia was known in the middle ages by the con-
nection between the Hanfe towns, in the north of Germany and Nov-
gorod, eftablifhed about 1276. So wide is nuw this empire that it main-
taig a commerce of the moft remote defcriptions, on the Baltic and
the White fea, the Euxine and the Cafpian, with Perfia, and with
China. Archangel, though fallen from its ancient confequence by the
building of Peterfourg, wl affords a moderate trade, and exports pot-
ah, kaviar, tallow, wax, hides, hemp, &c. with corn, linfeed, coarfe
linens, and other articles. ‘The commerce of Peterfburg is much of the
fame defcription : that of Riga is very confiderable, and to other articles
are added, mafts from the Dnieper. Ruffia is fuppofed to export by the
Baltic grain annually to the value of 170,0cl. and hemp and flax, raw
and manufactured, to the amount of a million and a half fterling.
_ The commerce of the Euxine, or Black fea, is of inferior moment,
its chief exports being furs, falt beef, butter, cordage, ‘fail cloth, kaviar,
®Rufsland, Handel Landwirthfchaflicke Kultur und Produgte von W.C, Friebe. Peo
teriburg, 3 vols. 1796, &e.
L4 ¢orn,
*
152
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
corn, with iron, linen, and fome cotton ftuffs. Imports, wine,
coffee, filks, rice, and feveral T'urkith commodities *,
- The Ruffian harbours in this fea are Aftracan, the chief feat of the
Cafpian commerce, Gurief, and Kifliar, From Aftracan are exported
many European manufactures ; and the chief imports are raw filk, rice
dried fruits, fpices, faffron, fulphur, and -naphtha. The Hindoo nike,
chants occafionally bring gold, and precious ftones. The annual trade
is computed at 1,000,000 of ‘rubles, or 200,0001. That of the Euxine
is not above one-third of this value.
Ruffia likewife maintains fome commerce by land with Pruffia. That
with Perfia is of little moment: the chief imports are filk. There is
confiderable trade by land with the Kirgufes, who fend horfes, cattle, and
fheep, in return for woollen-cloths, iron, and European articles, That
with China is nearly on a par; each country tranfmitting to the amount
of about 2,000,000 of rubles. (400,000l.) Ruffia exchanges her pre-
cious Siberian furs for tea, filk, and porcelain.
The internal commerce of Ruffia is very confiderable ; and Siberia is
faid to afford in gold, filver, copper, iron, falt, gems, &c. to the amount
of 12,000,000 of rubles, (2,400,000l.), that between the fouthern and
northern provinces is alfo of great extent and value. The coin current
in the empire is fuppofed to amount to about 30,000,000l. fterling, the
paper money to about 20,000,0001. The Siberian gold and filver fupply
an important addition tu the national currency.
fruit,
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture Rivers
—Lakes.— Mountains. —Forefts. —Botany.—Zoology.— Mineralogy.
Mineral Waters.—Natural Curiofities.
: HE climate of Ruffia in Europe, as
CLIMATE AND SEABONS: ] T may be expected in fuch a diverfity of
latitudes, prefents almoft every variety from that of Lapland, to that
of Italy; for the newly acquired province of Taurida may be compared
with Italy in climate and foil. But winter maintains the chief {way at
Peterfburg, the capital, and the Neva is annually frozen from November
,to March or April. The climate around the frozen ocean, and the laf
European ifle upon the N.E. that of Novaya Zemlia, or the New
Land, is of noted feverity, the northern fide being encompaffed with
mountains of ice, and the fun not vifible from the middle of Otober till
February; while it never fets during June and July. Taurida pre.
fents, on the contrary, all the luxuriance’ of the fouthern year,
per my aes regions are bleft with the mild feafons of Germany and
n e
ACE OF THE richie In fo wide an empire, the face of the
country mutt alfo he extremely various ; but the chief feature of Euro
Roffia confifts in plains of a prodigious extent, rivalling in that refped
the vait deferts of Afia and Africa. In the fouth are fome extenfive
Steppes, or dry and glevated plains, fuch as that above the fea of Azof, in
* Touke, ili. 572,
length
th about
et itute a diftin
Soil AND AGR.
_{e, from the ch
to the rich and fe
hetween the Don
of a black moul
formed from fuc
Efthonia the mec
litter is generall
the fields are neve
corm into too m
meadows are littl
farcely known.
crops of hay, the
inafew of the fte
feldom mown.
Agriculture is ]
of Olonetz, and .
ben purfued fron
In general, how
the harvefts are ab
but in the middle
Ekatarinoflav the
return commonly |
in Taurida. Bar
well as oats, Of w
widely diffufed.
ad flax form grea
fnce the year 176
has been tried in va
of Taurida along
abundance of exc
Don and the Vol
partsof Ruffia, a
pears are found as
55°. What is cal
i) an agreeable fla
from China is alfo ¢
Bees are not kno
the Uralian forefts
Rivers.] Ine
attention is due ¢
fpace, the bounda:
the latter continer
ples, till at Tari
nto Afia. This f
feveral lakes in t
between Peterfb
5. E.; near its ju
{reams from the
at Tzaritzin, Its
miles, This noble
* Tooke, i.
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 153
length about 400 Englifh miles... ‘The numerous and majeftic rivers alfo
contitute a diftinguifhing feature of this empire.
Soll AND AGRICULTURE. ] The foil is-of courfe, alfo extremely di-
_4e from the chilling marfhes which border the White and Frozen feas,
othe rich and fertile plains on the Volga. The moft fertile is that
tetween the Don and the Volga, from Voronetz to Simbirfk, confifting
of a black mould, ftrongly impregnated with falt-petre ; that isa {oi
formed from fucceffive layers of vegetable remains *. In Livonia and
Ethonia the medial returns of harveit are eight or ten fold; and the
latter is generally the produce of the rich plains near the Don, where
the fields are never manured, but on the contrary are apt to {well the
comm into too much luxuriance. — Pafturage is fo abundant that the
meadows are little regarded, and the artificial produétion of graffes is
farcely known. Some of the meadows are watered, and produce large
crops of hay, the dry paftures yield a fhort, but nutritious produce, and
inafew of the fteppes the grafs will attam the height of a man, and is
feldom mown. wie,
Agriculture is hardly known in the northern parts of the governments
of Olonetz, and Archangel ; but in the central parts of the empire has
been purfued from time immemorial. ;
In general, however, agriculture is treated with great negligence, yet
theharvefts are abundant. In the north rye is mott generally cultivated ;
put in the middle and the fouthern regions wheat ; in the government of
Ekatarinoflav the Arnautan wheat is beautiful, the flour yellowith, the
return commonly fifteen fold ; nor is Turkifh wheat, or maize, unknown
in Taurida. Barley is a general produce, and is converted into meal, as
yell as oats, of which a kind of porridge is compofed. Millet is alfo
widely diffufed. Rice fucceeds well in the vicinity of Kiflear. Hemp
ad flax form great objects of agriculture. Tobacco has been produced
fince the year 1763, chiefly from Turkifh and Perfian feed. The olive
has been tried in vain at Aftracan, but profpers in the fouthern mountains
of Taurida along the Euxine. The government of Mofcow produces
abundance of excellent afparagus; and fugar-melons abound near the
Don and the Volga. Large orchards are feen in the middle and fouthern
partsof Ruffia, yet quantities of fruit are,imported.. While apples and
are found as far north asthe 49°, plums and cherries extend to the
5°. What is called the Kirefskoi apple often weighs four pounds, is
/] an agreeable flavour, and will keep along time. A tranfparent fort
from China is alfo cultivated, called the Nalivui, melting and full of juice+.
Bees are not known in Siberia, but form an objeé of great attention in
the Uralian forefts. ee
Rivers. ] In enumerating the chief rivers of European Ruffia the firft -
attention is due to the majeftic Volga, which forms, through a long
fpace, the boundary between Afia and Europe, belonging properly to
the latter continent in which it arifes, and from which it derives its fup-
lies, till at Tzaritzin, about 250 miles from its mouth, it turns S. E.
into Afia. This fovereign of European rivers derives its fources from
feveral lakes in the mountains of Valday, and government of T'ver,
between Peterfburg and Mofcow; and bends its chief courfe to the
5, E.; near its junction with the Kama, an important river fed by many
reams from the Uralian chain, it turns towards the S, W. till it arrives
at Tzaritzin, Its comparative courfe may be computed at about 700
niles, ‘This noble river having no cataracts, and few fhoals, is navigable
* Tooke, i. 67. + Tooke, iii, 340.
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
154
evento Twer, The tributary rivers of the Volga are chiefly.fro
eaft, the Kama, which rivals the Volga at their wunttion rifing th i
overnment of Viatka, and running N.W. afterwards due E. and the,
8. On the weit the chief ftream which runs into the Volga is the Oka
which rifes in the government of Orel. }
Next to the Volga, on the weit, is the Don, or Tanais,
from alake in the government of Tulan, and falls into the
after a courfe of about 800 miles.
The Neiper, or ancient Boryfthenes, rifes in the government of Smno.
lenfk, about 150 miles to the fouth of the fource of the Volga, an4
' about 100 to the S. E. of that of the Duna, or Duina, which flow,
into the Baltic, by Riga; and after a courfe of about ro¢o miles
through rich and fertile provinces, falls into the Euxine. The Bog, o;
Hypanis, a far inferior ftream, falls intg the Liman, or eftuary of the
Neiper.
The Niefter, or ancient Tyras, now forms the boundary between.
European Turkey and Ruffia, deriving its fource from the north fide of
the Carpatian mountains, and falling into the Euxineat Akerman, after
a courfe of about 600 miles.
Several important rivers direct their courfe towards the Arétic ocean,
fuch as the Cara, which though not a confiderable river is yet remarkable,
as forming the boundary between Afia and Europe, for the fpace of
about 140. miles, the Uralian chain terminating fo far from the fea of
Cara-fkoi, or Karfkoi. .
The river Petfhora rifes in the Ural mountains, and joins the Frozen
ocean, after acourfe of about 450 miles.
Next, on the weft, is the Mezen, which falls into the White fea afte:
acourfe of about 350 miles.
The Dwina falls into the gulph of Archangel, after a confiderable
courfe of about 500 miles. The Onega clofes the lift of the chief rivers
that flow into the Arétic ocean; for thofe of Olonetz, and ef Ruffian
Lapland, are of little confequence.
The Svir joins the lake of Onega with that of mes which by the
Neva, a more important ftream, Fills into the gulph of Finland. This
river, pervading the city of Peterfburg, is about 4o miles in length, but
of confiderable breadth and depth, and fubjeé& to violent floods, whih
have been recently gtiarded againft by deepening the bed, and by ered.
‘ing ftrong quays of granite.
The Narva alfo runs a fhort courfe from the Tchudfkoi, or Peypus
lake, into the Finnifh gulph. The Pernof rifes fome miles to the wet
of the Peypus lake, and falls into the gulph of Riga.
But the moft confiderable flream in this quarter ‘is the Duna, whofe
fource has been already mentioned. It has fome confiderable and dan.
us falls; and fometimes greatly injures the city of Riga, at the
ing up of the ice. Its courfe is about 500 miles. The Nime
now forms a part of the boundary between Ruffia and Pruffia, and is
joined by a canal to the river Pripaz, which falls into the Neiper; but
the cataracts in the latter river, about 250 miles above its ettuary,
greatly impede the intercourfe that might thus be eftablifhed with
the Euxine.
Laxes.] The chief lakes of European Ruffia are fituated in the
.N.'W. divifion of the empire. There is a confiderable lake in R:-flan
Lapland, that of Imandra; to the fouth of which the government o
Olonetz prefents many extenfive pieccs of water, particularly the large
lake of Onega, which is 150 miles in length, by a medial breadth
which rife,
fea of Azof,
of about 3%.
careous, and ct
doga, about 13
argeft lakes in
and violent tem
fom the Volk
fequence ; but
which is much u
On the S.W.
oin breadth ;
jouth that of f
Narva. ‘To the
of Novgorod. :
of white clay.
But the lak
omitted. The.
Tver, which, t
anda finaller lak
river.
MounTarns.
is rather. a plair
fuch as that w
Nieper. ‘This 1
Moicow, is by |
lake of Vahlay,
Vhifokay Ploftch
lineated in the ce
mafles of granit
‘what are called
furmounted wit
and grey granit
feems to be ina
are beautiful 2
fouth of Valday
and calcareous p
Mofcow. Mr.
only 200 fathon
the fea: the hei
, the gentle and
purfue their co
birch, linden, a
and marl,
gs the Va
pafling the ftepp
perhaps iadheete
atthe mountain
markable height
“a the fhores
by Pallas, prod
granatey while ¢
and foliage of p
in this natural
on the hills, or
and
flows |
miles
M) or
f the
tween.
ide of
after
ocean,
kable,
ace of
fea of
Frozen
pa after
derable
f rivers
Raffian
by the
This
th, but
» which
y ered.
Peypus
the welt
» whole
nd dan.
» at the
Nimen
» and is
ber 3 but
ettuary,
fed with
1 in the
Ricflian
nment 0
he large
I breadth
)
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 15§
it 3% The iflande and thores of the Onega are chiefly cal-
panies Ad contain fome valuable marbles. ‘To the weft is the La-
os , about 130 miles in length, by 70 in breadth, being one of the
prgelt lakes in Europe. Asit has many fhoals, and is liable to fudden
inf violent tempefts, Peter the Great opened a canal along its fhore,
fom the Volk tothe Neva. The fithery of this lake feems of little con-
fequence $ but the northern fhores produce the beautiful Finnifh marble,
which is much ufed at Peterfburg. es
On the S.W. we find the lake of Peypus, about 60 miles in length by
oin breadth ; the northern part of this lake is ftyled that of Ifhud, the
jouth that of Pzcove. From the Peypus, iffues the river Narova, or
Narva. ‘To the eaft is the lake Ilmen, on which {tands the ancient city
of Novgorod.’ The Peilo, or White lake, is {o- called from its bottom
of white clay. :
But the lakes that give rife to the famous Volga muft not be
omitted. ‘The chief of thefe is the lake Seliger, in the ey Aa wie of
Tver, which, though narrow, extends about thirty miles in length;
anda finaller lake, not far to the weit, emits another fource of that augult
ver.
i Mountarns.] It has already been mentioned that European Ruffia
israther.a plain country, though fome parts of it be greatly elevated,
fych as that which fends forth the three rivers of Duna, Volga, and
Nieper. ‘This region, which is paffed in travelling from Peterfburg to
Moicow, is by fome called the mountains of Valday, from the town and
lke of Valday, fituated on the ridge; but by the natives it is ftyled
Vhifokay Plofichade, or elevated ground ; and no mountains are here de-
jineated inthe common maps. In this quarter the.ground is ftrewn with
mafles of granite, but the hills are chiefly marl, fand, and clay; and
‘what are called the mountains of Valday feem to be a ‘high table land,
furmounted with large fand hills, and imterfperfed with maffes of red
and grey granite : near Valday is the higheft part of the ridge, which
feems to be ina N.E. and S.W. direction. The hills, lakes, and vroves,
are beautifuls and there is an ifland with a noble monaftery. ‘T'o the
fouth of Valday the maffes of granite become fmaller, and more rare :
and calcareous petrifactions appear, which are followed by the clay near
Mofcow. Mr. Tooke * computes the higheft point of the Valday at
only 200 fathoms above the level of Peterfburg, about 1200 feet above
the fea: the height is inconfiderable, and gives a {triking impreffion of
| the gentle and plain level, through which fuch extentive rivers muit
purfue their courfe. ‘The woods on the-Valday are chiefly pine, fir,
birch, ne afpen, and alder; the foil in the wth is fertile, moftly clay
and marl, My deinen
From the Valday towards the S. fcarce a mountain occurs, but after
pafling the fteppe of the Nheper, an arid plain with falt lakes, which
perhaps indicate the extent of the Euxine at remote periods, we arrive
atthe mountains of Taurida, which are rather romantic than of re-
markable height, being calcarcous and alluvial. ‘T'o the S, of this chain,
along the fhores of the Euxine, are the beautiful vales, {0 well defcribed
by Pallas, productive of the laurel, the olive, the fig, and the pome-
granatey while the arbutus adorns the fteepeft cliffs with its red bark,
and foliage of perpetual green. The caper and the vine alfo abound
in this natural orchard, and the flocks of fheep and goats feedin
on the hills, or bounding from the rocks, unite with the fumple a
good
© Vol, i. 130.
156 RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
good humoured manners of the Tatar inhabitants,
truly paftoral.. ay
But the moft important chains of mountains in Euro
remain to be defcribed, thofe of Olonetz in the furtheft N. and thof
of Ural which feparate Europe from Afia. The chain of Olonet
runs ina direGtion almoft due N., for the fpace of 15° or about on,
G miles, The moft Ar&ic part is faid to confift chiefly of a
petrofilex, and lime-ftone ; and is not of great height, but retains per,
petual {now from the altitude of the climate. More to the §. branches
ftretch on the E. towards the. gulph of Kandalak: the granite is inter
mixed with large fheets of talc, and patches of trap are found, parti.
cularly near the gold mines of Voytz, on the weftern fide of the river
Vyg- Various other ores occur in this region, and veins of copper
pyrites appear in the trap.
In the centre, betweenthe mountains of Olonetz and thofe of Ural
there feems to be a confiderable chain extending from the E. of Meze,
to the Canin Nos, abold promontory which rufhes into the Frozen ocean .
but this chain appears to have efcaped the fearches of curiofity or avarice,
by the perpetual fnows, with which it is enveloped. ‘Ihe immenfe
Uralian chain extends from about the soth to near the 67th degree of
N. latitude, or about 1000 G. miles in length, and has by the Ruffian
been called Semenoi Poias, or the girdle of the world*, an extra.
vagant appellation, when we confider that the chain of the Andes
extends near 5000 miles. Pauda, one of the higheft mountains of the
Uralian chain, is reported by Gmelin to be about 4512 feet above the
level of the fea, an incontiderable height when compared with Mont
Blanc or Mont Rofa. The central part of this chain abounds in metals,
from Orenburg on the fouth to the neighbourhood of Perm, where,
on the Afiatic fide are, Venchoutury on the N., Ekatarinenburg on the
S., places remarkable for opulent mines. The higheft ridges are
chiefly granite, gneifs, and micaceous {chiftus, while the exterior hills
of the chain onthe W. are, as ufual, calcareous. Serpentine, jafper,
and trap, are alfo found, with argillaceous fchiftus, and other varieties,
to be expected in folong a chain.
Forests. European Ruffia is fo abundant in forefts that it would be
vain to attempt to enumerate them. There are prodigious forefts
between Peterfburg and Mofcow, and others between Vladimir and Arzo.
mas. Further to the S. there feems to have been a forett of {till greater
extent, probably the Riphzan foreft of antiquity in the direction of the
rich black foil fo remarkable for its fertility t.
Botany. ] Wheu we confider the valt extent of territory compre.
hended under the European fovereignty of Ruffia, from the frozen
fhore of Archangel to the delicious climate of the Crimea, and that the
whole of this great empire has fcarcely produced. a fingle naturalift of
any eminence, all that is known of its vegetables, animals, and minerals,
being colleéted for the moft part within the lait forty yenre by. 8 few
foreigners, under the munificent patronage of. Catherine II., it will be
to render the fcene
n Ruffa
evident that the rudiments alone of the Ruffian flora can as yet be extant.
The provinces bordering upon the Baltic, and the newly acquired go.
'
. * Pennant, A. Zool, 158. '
+ Mr. Coxe, Travels in Poland, &c. vol. i, 323,341, deferibes the vaft foreft of Vol-
konfki, as beginning near Viafmar, aud pari to the gates of Mofcow, as he travelled
through it welt interruption for 150 miles. He fays that the Vulga, Dune, and Dnie-
per, arife in this immenfe foreit, which confifte of oaks, heech, mountain-afh, poplar,
pines, and firs, mingled together in endlefe variety.
per.
vernment
mment of T
eh ftriking fea
heen defcribed
elapfe before th
of accuracy wit
The Ruffian
thofe of Swed
defcribed. Suc
inci in th
rice which,
of the Ruffian w
and the forefts o
dinceare, the fi
allof whiz min
the reft of Eur.
ta. The other
which the Ruffia
fvarms of wild
the alder, the af
aid humbler pla
cranberry, the t
for want of bett
referved in {nov
N. and middle o}
productions that
and enrich the ba
thewarm fhores a
Taurida, we thal
and with what e
avail themfel ves
tlately majefty fo
fpecies with -pric
lize fkirt along th
nettle tree, occu
the fummits of t¢
trees, befides the
which are difpe
almond and pea
walnut; the T'a
Chio-turpentine
granate.
ZooLocy.) T'
very flight fkete
arethe white bea
oftheS. In the
ek; nor is the c
the centre feem c
ful animals the he
many parts of th
Even the count
and fine cattle, w
The theep in the n
the wool coarfe ;
breed, Thofe in
of Vol-
travelled
d Dnie-
» poplar,
ment
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 157
emment of Taurida, have been examined with fome attention; and a
few ftrikin features of the botany of the interior of the cduntry have
geen defcribed by travellers; but many years of patient refearch mutt
dapfe before the natural hiftory of Ruffia is advanced to an equal degree
of accuracy with that of the weftern parts of Europe. :
The Ruffian provinces N. of the tic, contain the fame plants ae
thofe of Swedifh and Norwegian Lapland, which will be ereafter
jefcribed. Such asextend between the soth and 6oth deg. lat. abound
rincipally in the common vegetables of the N. of France and Germany,
Fe of which, however, are wanting, on account of the great feverity .
of the Ruffian winters, from their proximity to the vaft plains of Tatary,
and the forefts of Siberia. The trees of moft ufe, and in greateft abun-
dinceare, the fir; the Scotch pine ; the yew-leaved fir; and the larch :
dlof whi. mingled together, form the vaft impenetrable forefts, whence
the reft of Europe is principally fupplied with maits, deals, pitch, and
ta, The other foreft trees are, the elm, the lime, of the inner bark of
ghich the Ruffian mats are made, and from whofe bloffoms the immenfe
warms of wild bees collc& the chief part of their honey; the birch,
the alder, the afpen, the pont maple, and the fycamore ; of the fhrubs
ad humbler plants, thofe of moft iy sebae are the cloud-berry, the
eanberry, the bear-berry, the ftone bramble; the fruit of all which,
for want of better, is highly efteemed, and is either ‘eaten frefh, or is
eferved in {now during the winter. Quitting the pine forefts of the
N, and middle of Ruffia, if we turn our attention to the few vegetable
roductions that have as yet been noticed amidft the myriads -that adorn
ad enrich the broad vales of the Don and the Dneiper, that glow upon
hewarm fhores of the Black fea, or luxuriate in the delicious recefles of
Taurida, we fhall fee what a rich harveft is referved for future naturalifts,
ad with what eafe the inhabitants, when once become civilized, may
wail themfelves of the uncommon bounties of their foil. Here rifes in
ately majefty for future navies the oak, both the common kind and the
ipecies with ‘prickly cups, the black and the white poplars of unufual
fze fkirt along the margins of the ftreams, the afh, the horn-beam, the
nettle tree, occupy the upland paftures, and the elegant beech crowns '
the fummits of the lime ftone ridges. Of the fruit-hearing fhrubs and
trees, befides the goofeberry, the red, the white, and the black currant,
which are difperfed in abundance through the woods, there are the
almond and peach; the apricot and crab-cherry; the medlar; the
walnut; the Tatarian, the black and white mulberry; the olive; the
Chio-turpentine tree; the hazle nut; the fig; the vine and the pome-
nate.
ZooLocy.) The zoology of Ruffia is vaft and various, and only a
wry flight fketch can here be attempted. The more peculiar animals
arethe white bear of Novaya Zemlia, or the New Land, and the fouflik
oftheS. Inthe more northern parts are found the wolf, the lynx, the
ek; nor is the camel“ unknown in the lower latitudes. The animals in
the centre feem common to the reft of Europe. Among the more ufe-
ful animals the horfe has met with deferved attention, and the breed in
many parts of the empire is large, ftrong, ahd beautiful.
Even the country near Archangel is remarkable for excellent pafturage
and fine cattle, which may be faid in general to abound in the empire,
The theep in the northern provinces are of a middle fize, fhort tailed, and
the wool coarfe ; nor is Proper ‘attention paid towards improving the
breed, Thofe in the S. are long tailed, and yield a fuperior wool ;
10 the
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
the beft is from the ancient kingdom of Kazan,
eait of European Ruffia.
In Taurida it is faid that common Tatars may poffefs about 1¢
fheep, while an opulent flock is computed at 50,000} thofe of in
whole peninfula were fuppofed to amount to 7,000,000; nor is the a le
deer unknown in the furtheft N.; fo that the empire may be {aid to o
tend from the latitude of the rein-deer to that of the camel. ih
Minenatocy.] The chief mines belonging to Ruffia are in th:
Afiatic part of the empire, but a few are fituated in the European, jin the
mountains of Olonetz; and there was formerly a gold mine in thet
region, near the river Vyz. In the reign of Ivan Baillowite, the Englith
in 1569 obtained the privilege of working mines of iron, on condition that
they fhould teach the Ruffians their metallurgy. During the reign of
Alexis, the firft regular mines were eltablithed in Raffiay about 60 miles
from Mofcow, and they are ftill continued ; but Peter the Great was the
founder of the Ruffian mineralogy, by the inftitution of the college of .
mines in 1719 ; and copper and iron were fuccefsfully wrought in the ter.
ritory of Perm. About 1730 the rich mines began to be-difcovered in the
Afiatic part of the empite, the defcription of which will come hereafte
In 1739 gold was lirft obferved in the chain of Olonetz, as already men.
tioned ; and the mines of Voytzer near the Vyg were opened, but with
little fuccefs. ; ’
‘‘ The newly difcovered gold mine in the Ekatherinburg circle of the
Uralian mountains affords the beft hopes. Of 60,000 poods of ore which
had been dug up to the month of Odober 1804, 12,000 had been
{melted, and produced about 13 pounds of pure gold. A peafant who
difcovered the mine obtained a penfion of 200 rubles *, .
‘“¢Tn European Ruflia the iron mines are of the moft importance, and the
metal is well known in our manufactories. The chief iron mines are a
Dougna near Smolentk.”’ ides
Mineral waters.] European Ruffia being a plain country, can
boaft of few mineral waters ; the moft celebrated is near Sarepta on the
Volga, difcoveredin 1775. The {prings are here numerous and Copious,
and {trongly impregnated with iron. In the diftri&t of Perekop, and on
the ifle of Taman, belonging to the government of Taurida, there are
fprings of naphtha +. bupiht .
Natural curiosities.) The natural curiofities of Ruffia in Europe
have fcarcely been enumerated, except thofe which indicate the feventy
of winter in fo northern a clime. Not to mention the rocks of ice, of
many miles in extent and furprifing height, which navigate the frozen
ocean, adorned like cathedrals with pinnacles, which refle& a thoufand
colours in the fun, or aurora borealis 5 it is well known that the Emprei
Arine built a palace of ice, on the bank of the Neva, in 1740, which wa
52 feet in length, and when illuminated had a furpriting effect.
The grotto of Kurgur, on the weftern fide of the Uralian mountains
has been defcribed with a plan by Gmelin}. It is of great extent, and
contains even {ubterranean lakes and ws,
and other regions in thy
Rotice.
fortified,
offeffes t
fit full «
Both ifles
There
White fea
orthe Nev
hut the ch
rules, arcti
of this defe
the fouth
tide flows j
The rev
fefion of |
country ha:
belongs to
while the €
planted by
of Spitzber
to Verlegar
hafaltic col
hexagonal +
pethaps fro:
aftrong cur
poled to ha
1596. The
4000 feet ;
The ice-ber;
appearance,
with catarad
freaked wi
by aggregat
bit the fi
fuow, call it
the fun fete,
after the beg
ms is the
ere are fo
There are a
hallow feas
indthat nor
bergen, T
Seven Sifter
This defe
Auenicay
The origi
and trading
The difcove
i 1696—1
oceans the
1133~17
Ain Py
* Pennant,
RUSSIAN ISLES.
The {mall:ifle of Cronftadt, in the gulph of Finland, was formerly
called Retufavi, and is only remarkable for an excellent haven, ftrongly
+ Teoke, i..aes. 2 Friebe, whi fupra.
fortified’
Hid, Gen. des Voy,
RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 159
fortified, the chief flation of the Ruffian fleet. Inthe Baltic, Ruffia alfo
ffeffes the iflands of Oefel and Dago, which are of a confiderable fize,
but full of rocks ; the marble of the firft ifland is however beautiful,
sidns in the
bout 1609 Bath ifles are chiefly peopled by Ettonians.
ofe of the There are feveral ifles near the fhore of Ruffizn Lapland, and in the
is the rein. White fea, but generally. barren and uninhabited rocks. . Novaya Zemlia,
faid to ex. orthe New Land, isalfo uninhabited, and is faid to confift of five ifles,
Rea hut the channels between them.are always filled with ice*. Seals, wal-
(3
nites, arctic foxes, white bears, and a few rein deer, conttitute the zoology
ofthis defert ; and are occafionally hunted by the people of Mezen. To
the fouth of Novaya Zemliais the fea of Cara (Karfkoye) in which the
ride flows about two feet nine inches,
The remote and dreary iflands of Spitzbergen having been taken pof-
fefion of by the Ruffians, they may be here briefly defcribed. This
country has by fome been ftyled New Greenland, a name which accurately
belongs to. the weftern fide of Greenland !’roper, in North America,
pean, in the
ine in that
the Englith
dition that
the reign of
ut 60 miles
reat. Wap the
e college of
bt intl while the eaftern fide is called Old Greenland, .as having been anciently
ih yi ‘i plinted by the Danes, though fince blocked up by ice. The main land
sch ley ahd of Spitzbergen extends about 300 miles from the fouth cape, lat. 76’ go!
me hereafter,
already men.
d, but with
to Verlegan Ho6k, lat. 80° 7’. In an adjacent {mall ifle are faid to be
tafaltic columns, from eighteen to twenty inches in diameter, and moftly
hexagonal +. Drift-wood is frequent in thefe northern latitudes, partly
- circle of the perhaps from the banks of the Ob, and partly from America, there being
of ore which aftrong current from the Weft Indies to the N.E. Spitzbergen is fup-
500 -had be poled to have been. firft difcovered by the Dutch navigator Barentz in
\. peafant re 1596. The mountains are of granite and grit ; the higheft not exceeding
joofeet ; for mountains in general decline in height towards the poles.
‘The ice-bergs or glaciers, in the N.E. of Spitzbergen, prefent a fingular
sonra bath high cliffs of an emerald colour, impendent over the fea,
with cataracts of melted fnow, and a back ground of black conic hills
freaked with white. The fea itfelf contains mountains of ice formed
byaggregation 5 a large field forcing a {maller out of the water till it lodge
wpon the fuperior furface, and the height is afterwards increafed by the
fuow, till it fometimes rife to 1500 feet. About the firft of November
the fun fets, and appears no more till the beginning of February ; and
after the beginnin 4 May it never fets till Auguit. The only thrubby
we is the Lapland willow, which rifes to the height of two inches,
ere are found polar bears, foxes, and rein deer, with walrufes and feals.
There are a few kinds of water fowl ; but the whale is the lord of thefe
hallow feas. The Ruflians from Archangel maintain a kind of colony ;
‘tance, and the
1 mines are at
country, can
arepta on the
s and copious,
ekop, and on
rida, there are
ffia in Europe
te the feverity
ks of ice, of
ate the frozen
ndthat northern region feems indeed to have a natural right to Spitz-
ae Leenks bergen. To the NE. of this dreary group are the {mall files called the
4o, which was fim Seven Sifters, the moft artic land yet difcovered.
ow This defcription hall be tercainated by fome account of the Russraw
alian mountain fam AMenIcaw Company, whofe tranfactions have hitherto efcaped due
notice.
The origin of this trading company may be traced back to thofe hunting
and trading expeditions, undertaken by the Ruflians fince the year «745.
The difcovery of Kamtfchatka, and the poffeffion of it by the Ruflians
in 1696—1706, foon gave rife to two voyages of Soery in the Eaftern
ocean; the firft of which took place in 1725—1 740, and the fecond ia
1732-1743. The object of former was to fhew the feparation of
Ata from America. By means of it amore accurate haowleage was not
t extent, and
H, was formerly
haven, ftrongly
— ya * Pennant, Arc. Zool. cle, ¢ Tid. cmuii.
only
RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
160
only obtained of the Kurile iflands, the exiftence of which had bees The pri
known to the Ruffians fince 1711 5 but the Alieutian Ifands were dif ordinate ©
vered in 1741. This laft difcovery was attended with the moft Nat ng ad Kuril
confequences to commerce, ™ It is ma
Afterthe fecond Kamtfchatdale expedition, no further refearches w, i, The
undertaken in thefe feas at the erence of government, till the ye, wasan ¢XC
1768 ; but the exertions of private individuals, to take advantage of thors pany are ai
already made, and to carry them ftill further, were the more Bie I, The
The quantity of furs which the navigators fent upon thefe expeditions ifands.
brought back with them, inducéd fome merchants, in the ; hnguage )
the ealtern
Kurilkaya
ig eltablifhe
Alexander’
The laft m
were fitted out at Ochotzk, where there had been a vegies ettablifhment a “ : ui
II. ihe
and Fox iffle
blifhments 1
ifands of A
mentioned is
III. The
Kadyak an
bafis of the Ruffio-chinefe trade ; and of courfe this trade tended in, Afognak we
very great degree to promote the difcoveries of the Ruffians on the north. 1783 and 17
weit coaft of America, the company
The adventurers in the Ruffian expeditions were at firft for the mot of which is:
art Siberian merchants and Coflacs; as their expeditions were carried yemor or chi
farther and became more expenfive, this branch of trade came by de. erous for fh
grees into the hands of a few rich merchants at Irkutfk, Tobolfk, andi tt Three H
other trading towns in the interior of Ruflia, among whom were the mer. Schelikof pq
chant Schel kof, at Rylfk, and his partners, the two brothers Goliko Kukak, a fi
IV. The
which extend
at Kurfk. None of the trading houfes was more active than this,
Schelikof himfelf undertook feveral voyages to the iflands and the north.
welt coaft of America; he alfo publifhed an account of his voyage, by Bering’8 {tr
which he re¢tified the knowledge of thefe parts, in which he even madefammm "0m the pen
new difcoveries ; and at length formed a confiderable eftablifhment on the formed no e
ifland of Kadyak ; which fince that period has been’ the ftaple or centre Auflian map
natives, whi
nas poo
agood way i
The coal
was firft take
89, by Sq
then chief fe
the Renaifli
refent after
‘ the Engl
borrowed fre
of the whole trade*, He and his partners firft affumed the name of the
American Company, In the year 1798 this company united itfelf with
the’ Irkufki trading company, at the head of which was a merchant
named Mylnikof; and it then took the title of the United American
Company. ‘Twenty mercantile families had fharesin it. In the ye
t 43 this company obtained a patent from the emperor, by which it
e zblithed as a privileged trading company under the title of the Rufio
American Company.
The capital of this company was of two kinds: the real capital
fubfcribed by the twenty original partners, and a credit capital.
The former, in the year 1798, confifted of 724,00 rubles, divi'd
into 72 fhares of 1000 rubles each. The amount of the latter, 10 _“ otitis
whic the company iffued bills, can be known only from their books. ah ie
On the Re
- © This refpedtable member of fociety died in 1797. ‘The emperor Paul cunierred t
rank of noble upon his widow, who had accompanied her hufband in all his voyages, and
alfo upon her defcendants. Refanof, who went out as em!vaflador to Japan, was fon-in-l
of Schelikef’s widew. ~ 7
has feveral e
William’s S 0
ich had beeg
8 were difco.
of important
fearches Were
till the year
tage of thofe
More active,
© expeditions
year 1745; to
| Gilcovery of
in which this
ls in order to
sh on the Chi.
de. The thips
-eftablifhment
otters was at.
) of Irkuthk,
id adventurers
ce New expedi.
year 1750, all
pvered and an.
gradually the
le tended ina
son the north.
; for the mof
8 were carried
> came by de.
Tobolfk, and
were the mer.
thers Goliko
ive than this,
and the north.
his voyage, by
he even made
ines on the
aple or centre
he name of the
ited itfelf with
yas a merchan
ited American
In the ye
py which it
of the Ruflio
the latter, 10
heir books.
Poul conierred t
I his es, ald
ban, wal fanelnl
The
‘RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 161
The principal factory is at Irkufk 5 befides which there are four fub-
prdinate ONES, namely, at Ochotfk and in the iflands Kadyak, Onalafchka,
ad KurilfkayaGryeda, gles .
It is managed by two directors, or four if circumftances fhould require
», The fhares may be transferred by fale, of in any other manner. It
wasan exclufive privilege for twenty years. ‘The poffeffions of the com-
are a8 follows ; ; 5
P |, The Kurile ifles comprehending eighteen largeanda number of {maller
ifands. The eighteenth, or moit fouthern ifland is called, in the
language of the natives, Urup, and by the Ruffians, who on a bay on
the ealtern coaft of it have the eftablifhment Kurile Roffiy (formerly
Kurilkaya Grizda), is called Alexander’s ifland. One of the fa¢tories
jsetablifhed in this ifland. The Japanefe iflands immediately adjacent to
Alexander’s ifland are Atorkue, Kunafchiri, Tfchikota and Matmai.
The lat mentioned large ifland is feparated from the ifland of Niphon
oily by auarrow ftrait.
[I]. The Alieutian iflands comprehend the Alieutian, Andreanofski,
ad Fox iflands as far as the peninfula Aliafka. ‘The company has efta-
pithments in almoft all thefe iflands; but the moft important are in the
ifands of Atclta and Onalafcha. The fecond of the four factories already
nentioned is alfo in the latter. ‘
III]. The Renaifki group of iflands is formed by the large ifland
Kadyak and a number of {maller ones fcattered around. Kadyak and
Afognak were firft sues and further explored by Schelikof between
1783 and 1787. Radyak is at prefent the moft important poffeflion of
the company. In this ifland there are feveral eftablifhments, the largett
of which is Fort St. Paul, the feat of the third fa&tory, and of the go-
ymor or chief agent of thecompany. Theharbour of St. Paul is dan-
erous for fhi sat a certain fize. The beft harbours are at the fort of
the Three Hol Fathers, named after one of the three fhips with which
Schelikof performed his firtt voyage fouth-weft from St. Paul; and
Kukak, a {mall ifland, a little diftance to the eaft of the above fort.
IV. The poffeffions of the company on the continent of America,
which extend along the north-weilt coaft from latitude 5° north, to beyond
Bering’s {trait. Bn that immenfe range of coatt which {tretches north
fom the peninfula Aliafka, and on the peninfula itfelf the company have
formed no eftablifhments ; but they are vifited by its fhips : and the large
Ruffian maps exhibit between latitude 60° and 67° 52 fettlements of the
natives, which for the molt part lie on the fea coaft, but fometimes at a
confderable diftance from it, on rivers and inlets of the fea that penetrate
agood way into the country. R
The coat of the continent, lying’ eaft from the peninfula Aliafka,
yas fir t taken poffeffion of for the Ruffian empire in the years 1788 and
1789, by Schelikof, or rather by a Greek, named Dalaref, who was
then chief faétor of his company. This coaft contains two large bays,
the Renaifki, formerly called by the Englith Cook's River, but at
refent after Vancouver, Cooke's Inlet, and the Tfchugazki, called
" the Englith Prince William’s Sound. The Ruffian appellations are
borrowed from the names of the tribes who inhabit the diftriéts in the
wighbourhood of thefe bays. Both thefe inlets higher up are feparated
oly by a narrow tongue of land, which the Ruffians fometimes crofs,
carrying with them their fmall veffels,
On the Renaifki bay or found (Cook's River or Inlet) the company
has feveral eftablifhments ; alfo on the bay or found Tfchugazki (Prince
William’s Sound), and on the —" below the bay Tfchugafki. ~
; he
152 RUSSIA IN EUROPE.
The moft fouthern eftablifhment is in the Bay Sitka, called by the tz
tives Tfchinkitane; by the Spaniards Baye de Guadeloupe, and by the
Englifh Norfolk Sound, In this bay lies the ifland of Sitka, which w
taken poffeffion of by Baranof, the director of the company in 1799 ; and
on which he conftruéted thé fort of the Archangel Michael. This ifland
is now called by the Ruffians Baranof’s Eland. ‘The hill on it, calleq
by Cook Mount os a was feen in the year 1742 by Ticherikof
and ealled the Hill of Lazarus.
Befides thefe four factories at Ochotzk, Kadyak, Onalafchka, ahd
Kurilo-Roffiy, the company have four more in Kumtfchatka, namely at
the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, at Bolfcherezk, Nifhney-Kamt.
ichatka and Tigilik.
The number of all the Ruffians fettled at prefent (1803) on the coaf
of America is eftimated at 700.
The company have eftablifhed at St. Paul, in the ifland of Kadyak,
fchool and hbrary, which already contains more than a thoufand volumes
in hittory, geography, and alfo nautical books with charts, A conf.
derable addition was fent out with Admiral Knuenftern, who went to
Japan. ‘The company have alfo undertaken to propagate the Chrittian
religion in thefe diltant parts ; and to open new fources for trade be: fea
with China and Japan ;. alfo to introduce among the natives agriculture
and the breeding of cattle.
It appears by a ftatement publifhed in 1805 that on making up the ac.
counts to the year 1804, it was found that the clear profit for the years
1802:and 1803, oneach share, was about 156 rubles *.
EE
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. — Latent. — Divifions. — Boundaries. — Original Population, ~
Progrejive Geography. — Prefent Boundarics.——Hiflorical Epoch and.
Antiquities. ‘
si | ite dominions fubjeé to the houfe of Auftria embrace many ancient
kingdoms and tates, which, for the fake of perfpicuity, are here
brought under one point of view 5 it having been urged asa reproach to
modern geography, that by the obftinate retention of antiquated divie
tions, and the confufed minutenefs of feparate defcriptions, it hag not
raade an uniform progre!s with modern hiftory, and polities, which it
ought to illuftrate. lence, to ufe the prefent inftance, many are ledto
imagine that the power of the houfe of Autftria is chiefly founded on its
bearing the imperial title, whereas, if teduced to the regal ftyle of Hun-
gary, its hereditary domains entitle it to rank among the chief European
powers, being of wide extent and great importance, and boafting a popu:
* Rufstands Mandel landwirthfhafuicke Kultur und Produgte von W. C, Friebc. Peter!
burg, 1797, ke,
8 lation
appellations
daten ; Boh
lation ¢
populat
onlyy t
habitan
In de
may fee
gradual
which v
remainit
real and
abandon
pher. (
yation @
Bohemiz
may be
Adriatic
art of
NAMI
in part,
modern |
was OCCU
adjoining
Autria |
tion, T
kingdom
arofe afte
nant of t
by that ¢
march, Ot
marquifat
Barbaro
pire +.
its mode
of Finni
German
Chaclems
Hungariz
the Finnig
province
whofe ch
and the
Trajan.
mans Sieb
the more
Carpathiz
Venice, a
of the op
inexaét
gation o
Exrey
® Severa
t D’Anv
d by the tre.
and by the
. which was
A 1799 5 and
his iflang
on it, Called
Ticherikof,
lafchka, and
ay Namely at
fhney-Kamt.
on the coaft
’ Kadyak, a
fand volumcs
s. <A confi.
who went to
the Chrittian
> trade be: fea
8 agriculture
ing up the ac.
for the years
ee -
1 Epoch and.
e Many ancient
uity, are here
a reproach to
tiquated divis
ns, it hag not
ties, which it
any are ledto
founded on its
ftyle of Hun-
hief European
oafting a popu:
. Friebe. Peter!
lation
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 163
lation of not lefs than 20,000,000, more concentrated than the diffufe
opulation of Ruffia, and perhaps the next power to France, not in arme
only, but on the broad and deep-rooted batis of compact numbers of in-
bitants. ,
“ defcribing a fovereignty, thus compofed of many ancient ftates, it
may feem proper to Py the firft and chief attention to that part which
sradually {pread its domination over the reft. Or in other words, that
hich was the earlieft important inheritance of the ruling family. The
remaining provinces will of courfe be confidered in proportion to their
ral and lafting importance; while the more minute diftrifts may be
abandoned to the fedulous care and microfcopie labour of the topogra-
her. On this plan the provinces that will here require particular obfer-
yation are the archduchy of Auftria; the kingdoms of Hungary, and
Bohemia ; the grandtuchs of Tranfylvania, winch, with the Buckovina,
may be regarded as belonging to Hungary ; the dominion towards the
Adriatic, with the acquifitions of Venice agd Dalmatia; and laitly, that
art of Poland which has fallen under the Auftrian fceptre.
Names.] The archduchy of Auftria may be confidered as belonging,
inpart, to ancient Pannonia, the Vindobona of the Romans being the
modern Vienna. But that’half of Auttria, which lies north of the Danube,
was occupied by the Quadi, a barbaric nation, who anciently infefted the
adjoining provinces of Pannonia and Noricum; for the weftern part of
Autria on the S. of the Danube falls under the latter ancient appella-
tion. The German name and divifion of Ofterich*, or the eaftern
kingdom, foftened into Auttria by the Italian and French enunciation,
arofe after Charlemagne had eltablifhed the weftern empire, being a rem-
nant of the fovereignty of what was called Eaftern France, ettablithed
by that conqueror, It was alfo ityled Marchia Orientalis, the eaftern
march, or boundary : and, after the hilure of the Francic line, became a
marquifate, feudatory to the dukes of Bavaria, till the emperor Frederic
Barbarofa, in 1156, conttituted it a duchy, held immediately ef the em-
pite+. Hungary, a part of which belonged to ancient Dacia, derives
its modern appellation from the Ugurs, a nation now known to have been
of Finnith origin, who, after {preading devaitation through a great part of
Germany, fixed their refidence here in the tenth century. In the time of
Chaclemagne it was poffeffed by the Avars, a Slavonic people t. The
Hungarians ftyle themfelves Magiar ; and their language approaches to
the Finnic dialeét.. Bohemia, or the habitation of the Boii, was‘a central
province of Barbaric Germany, afterwards feized by a Slavonic tribe,
whofe chiefs were originally ftyled dukes of Buhemia. Tranfylvania
and the Buckovina, are parts of the province of Dacia, founded by
Trajan. The former is by the Hungarians called Erdeli ; by the Ger-
mans Sieben-burgen, or the Seven Towns, froma colony there eftablifhed ;
the more common name feeme derived from the woody paffes of the
Carpathian mountains, and was impofed by the monkith writers.
Venice, as is well known, derives its appellation from the ancient Veneti
of the oppofite fhore, The origin of the other names becomes difficult,
in exadt panics to their unimportance ; and is more fit for the invelti-
gation of the antiquary than for the prefent defign.
Extent.] From the frontiers of Swifferland, to the utmoft limits of
* Several of the German names of Auftrian provinces differ confiderably from our
appellations : Carinthia is Carnten ; Carnioia, Xrain; Stiria, Steyermark ; Croatia, Cras
daten ; Bohemia, Boehmen ; Moravia, Marhren. Galitz,or Galitzia, is wrongly flyled Galicia.
t D’Auville, Etats tormés en Europe, p. 52. 3 Gibbon, x. 204.
M 2 Tranfylvania,
1640 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
Tranfylvania, the length of the Auftrian dominions may be about "760
Britifh miles ; the breadth about 520, from the river Bug, which forms
a boundary between Auftria and Pruffian Poland, to the Save, which di.
vides the Auftrian from the Turkifh fovereignty. The acquifition of
Venetian Dalmatia may probably foon be followed by the junction of
thofe Turkifh provinces, which divide that province from the Auttrian
domain. The Sense contents may be about 184,000 miles. Boetticher
eftimates the inhabitants at 108 toa fquare mile; but fince he wrote, the
Netherlands}a populous region, feem to be withdrawn from the houfeof
Auttria. :
Towards the eaft, the Auftrian dominions border on thofe of Ruffia
and Turkey, and to the north on thofe of Pruffia, Upper Saxony, Ba.
Pisani and Swabia. On the utmotft weft, are Swifferland and the Italian
ates,
The ftate of the Auftrian dominions has been confiderably changed by
recentevents. Venice has become a part of the kingdom of Italy ; and
the blindnefs of .Auftria towards this venerable republic may be regarded
as abfolute infatuation. ‘Tyrol has become affigned to the eleétor, now
king, of Bavaria, who alfo fhares with the new king of Wirtemberg the
the Auftrian poffeffions in Swabia. Such are the moft effential terms of
the treaty of Prefburg, 26 December 1805. The counties of Salz.
burg and Berchtolfgaden are incorporated with the empire of Auftria,
By this remarkable treaty the A.uftrian emperor,
‘« Cedes and abandons to his Majeity the king of Bavaria the Margra.
viate of Burgau and its dependencies ; the principality of Eichftadt ; the
part of the territory of Paffau, belonging to the elector of Salzburg, and
fituated between Bohemia, Auttria, the Danube, and the Inn; the country
of Tyrol, comprehending therein the principalities of Brixen and Botzen,
the feven lordfhips of the Voralberg, with their detached dependencies ;
the county of Hohenems, the county of Konigfegg, Rottenfels, the lord.
fhips of Tetnany and Argen, and the town and territory of Lindau.
‘“¢ To his Majefty the king of Wirtemberg, the five cities of the Da.
nube, to wit, Chingen, Munderkengen, Rufflingen, Menzen, and Sal.
gaw, with their dependencies, the city of Conftance excepted ; that part
of the Brifgaw which extends in the poffeffion of Wirtemberg, and fitu-
ated to the eaft of a line drawn from Schlegelburg to Molbach, and the
towns and territories of Willengen and Brentengen. To his mof
ferene highnefs the ele€tor of Baden, the Brifgaw (with the exception of
the branch and feparate portions above defcribed), the Ortenfaw and
their dependencies, the city of Conftance, and the commandery of
Meinau *.’’
It has been afferted that Auitria was to be partly indemnified for thefe
important ceflions by the acquifition of Bofnia and Servia from the Turks;
but-as the French have feized on Cattaro, and the Dalmatian territories
‘of the former republic of Venice, it may be doubted whether her policy
would permit.the increafe of the power of Auftria in that quarter.
“. ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population of thefe extenfive
regions is various, but chiefly Gothic and Slavonic. The native ancient
Germans, a Gothic race, form the ruling, moft induftrious, and moft
important part of the inhabitants. Bohemia and Moravia were originally
Slavonic kingdoms ; and the people of Poland and f..ngary may be gene-
rally ielersed to the fame origin.. The Venetians, and adjacent Italians,
* Recent difafters have occafioned yet further ceffions | but the power of Auftria feems
fomewkat confolidated by the marriage of Napoleon with the Auftrian princefs,
10 may
may be c
the Rom:
nealog’y Ci
by hiftory
ProGR
part of th
Adriatic v
throw the
Gaul, in ¢
Ips) nov
ini fu
Noricum 4
til Trajan
reign of
cellor Tib
Roman em
derived fro
phy of P tc
of ancient
the age of
vention of
provinces h
might have
men of acu
accounts ar
travellers.
Histor}
fates, recet
into their o
with the fir
conglomera
to their mo:
1. The
the fifteent]
known to
lords pofle
the canton ¢
anancient td
of Hapfbu
of the great
of Zaeringe
devolving ta
fucceffors *
2, Anot.
1298 ; fro
Frederic wa
y Alber
onthe deatl
gary and B
election.
4 Maxin
became fubj
1496, marr
bout 760
hich forms
which di.
uifition of
unétion of
e Auftrian
Boetticher
wrote, the
he houfe of —
of Ruffia
xony, Ba.-
the Italian
changed by
[taly ; and
e regarded
e€tor, now
emberg the
al terms of
s Of Salz.
of Auttria.
he Margra.
hftadt ; the
zburg, and
the country
and Botzen,
endencies ;
I the lord.
‘indau,
of the Da.
n, and Sal-
1; that part
'g, and fitu.
ch, and the
o his mof
i. an of
rtenfaw and
imandery of
ied for thefe
n the Turks;
in territories
pr her policy
arter.
efe extenfive
ative ancient
s, and moft
re originally
f Auftria feems
sefs,
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 165
may be confidered as genuine defcendants of the Cifalpine Gauls, and of
the Roman colonies eftablifhed among them. In ancient defcent, no ge-
yealogy can vie with that of feveral Venetian families, which can be traced
by tory and record to the eighth century.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. | The progreflive geography of the fouthern
atof the Auftrian dominions commences at an early period. Yet the
Adriatic was not a favourite fea of the Greeks ; and the Roman writers
throw the firft fteady light upon thefe regions. Paffing from Cifalpine
Caul, in defiance of the barriers of the Rhetian, and Carnic, or Julian
Alps, now the mountains of Tyrol, Carinthia, and Carniola, the Roman
serals fubdued many barbarous tribes; and founded the provinces of
Noricum and Pannonia, their moft northern acquifitions in this quarter,
iil Trajan added Dacia. The Rhetians were fubdued by Drufus, in the
re of Auguttus, under whofe {way, or rather in the time of his fuc-
glor Tiberius, Pannonia and Noricum alfo became provinces of the
Roman empire.’ Concerning thofe regions, much information may be
jrived from the luminous page of Tacitus; and, foon after, the geogra-
hyof Ptolemy opens additional illuftrations. ‘The common refources
of ancient geography are continued by the Byzantine writers ; and, after
the age of Charlemagne, by many hittorians of the weft. Since the in:
vation of printing to the prefent period, the geography of thefe extenfive
provinces has been gradually improved, though not with the rapidity. which
night have been expected, as they unfortunately have not produced many
nen of acute. genius, extenfive learning, or exat fcience; and the beft
xcounts are derived from writers in the N. of Germany, and from foreign
travellers.
Historicax Epocus.] The hittorical epochs of various kingdoms and .
fates, recently united under one fovereignty, mutt of courfe be fubdivided
into their original diftiné&t portions, beginning in the order above-mentioned,
with the firft important ftate, around which, as a nucleus, the others are
conglomerated ; but proceeding thence to the other provinces, according
to their modern extent and importance.
1, The houfe of Auftria, which, by fucceffive fortunate marriages fince
the fifteenth century, has arifen to fuch a fummit of power, is well
known to have fprung from the humble counts of Hapfburg. Thofe
lords poffeffed a {mall territory in Swiflerland, in the northern corner of
the canton of Berne. On a lofty eminence, crowned with beech, ftands
an ancient tower, the firlt feat of the houfe of Auttria, In 127 3 Rodolph
of Hapfburg was called to the Imperial throne, being at this time lord
ofthe greater part of Swifferland, by the extinétion of the powerful houfe
of Zaeringen, and that of the counts of Kyburg, whofe joint inheritance
devolving to Rodolph, became the bafis of his power, and that of his
fucceffors *, +
2, Another emperor of the houfe of Auftria appeared in Albert, A. D;
1298 ; from whom the Swifs made their fignal revolt in 1307. His fon
Frederic was obliged to yield the empire to Louis of Bavaria.
y Albert [T. duke of Auttria, A D. 1438, fucceeded to three crowns,
onthe death of his father-in-law the emperor Sigiimond ; thofe of Hun-
ery and Bohemia by inheritance, and that of the empire by unanimous
election. ,
4 Maximilian having married the heirefs of Burgundy, the Netherlands
became fubjeét to the houfe of Auftria in 1477; and his fon Philip, in
1496, marrying the heirefsof Arragon and Cattille, the ample dominiogs
* Planta’s Swi i, 170, ‘
M 3 | of
166 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
of Spain fell afterwards under the Auftrian {fceptre. Char! tbe
all thefe domains ; but, on his refignation, deals and Gn Neate ted
devolved to his fon Philip II. and Auftria, Bohemia, and Hungary nen
to Ferdinand, the brother of Charles V., who was alfo chofen ii Hcy ¥e
eres noted bigotry of the houfe of A hi
. The noted bigotry of the houfe of Auftria was not:
Spanith branch ; far though Maximilian II., about pha riseipa the
liberty of confcience even to the proteftants of Auttria, yet ne
Bohemia, and other parts, were afterwards fo much oppreffed ‘Nine e
proteftant princes of Germany called in Guftaf Adolf, the celebr; a
Swedifh monarch, to their affiftance, who fhook the empire to its am
foundations. Even France fupported the proteftants, in the whe ‘
weakening the Aufrian power ; and the war continued till 1648 =
the famous treaty of Weitphalia was figned, which has ferved vag b es
for other diplomatic tranfaCtions. ws
6. The war with France was often rekindled during the long reign of
Leopold I. 1658, to 1705; and in 1683 the Turks were fo fuccetstul
to lay fiege to Vienna. ‘a
7. His fon, Jofeph, I. joined the allies againft France, and fliared ;
their fuccefs, He married the daughter of John Trederic, duke ar
. Hanover.
8. By the death of the emperor Charles VI. onthe 2zoth O&toher, 1- 0
without male iffue, the houfe of Auitria became extinet. The aa.
of Bavaria feized the kingdom of Bohemia, and was eleéted emperor in
1742, but died in 1745. . :
9. Francis of Lovrain, fon of Leopold, duke of Lorrain, having mar
ried Maria Therefa, daughter of the emperor Charles VI. fucceeded a |
the Auftrian, dominions, which continue to be held by his defcendants
In 1745 he was elected emperor, and his fucceffors have enjoyed the fin,
perial crown as if hereditary.
to. The reign of the emperor Jofeph II. a beneficent, but impetuoy;
prince, whofe grand defigns of reformation were fruftrated by his ignorance
of the inveteracy of habits and prejudices, which muft ever be confidered
in a due eftimate of human affairs.
1¥. The obdurate and fanguinary conteft with France, the events of
which are known to all.
Having thus briefly marked the chief epochs of the Auftrian power
the events of the fubje& kingdoms and ftates muft be as much om,
gees as poflible. ‘The next in importance are thofe of the kingdom of
ungary.
I, aThe Roman province of Dacia. The conqueft by the Huns ; and
afterwards by the Avars, and other Slavonic tribes.’
2. The conqueft by the Ogurs, or the Magiars, who continued under
dukes from their firit féttlement in 884.
3- St. Stephen, king of Hungar » A.D. 1000. The crown is partly
elective and partly hereditary ; and among the chief hiftorical events ar
the warsin Dalmatia againft the Venetiaas.
Louis f. furnamed the Great, A.D. 1342, fubdues a great part of
Dalmatia, ‘and carries his arms into Italy. He was fucceeded by his
daughter Mary, who was ftyled King of Hungary ; but dying 1302, the
Succeffion became controverted, and at . laft terminated in the election of
Sigifmond, marquis of Brandenburg, who had wedded Mary the heirels
In 1411 he was chofen emperor of Germany.
5. Albert of Auftria having wedded Elizabeth the heirefs of Sigif
mond, was, with her, crowned king and queen of Hungary, 1438: a
even
refufed the
of Hapfbu
who had m
fain at the
fon and fu
Jobn Hufs
event \
arian 1
4 “4
againl
the king
6. @)
Auttria,
is procl
Rakos,
fates, ai
prince W
rous, the
founded :
Greek ar
7 Aft
of Hung
his reign
his being
Hungary
fince conti
The gr
gary till
and Ferdi
late. Ste
ws7t, that
after whicl
mB wolt diitin
garian and
and died in
the fecond
16945 fines
dominions.
The hifl
tention.
1 Inth
by chiefs,
embraced (
fubdued th
2. Vrati
emperor H
domains of
and the co
and his img
caufe of tl
3. One of
who afcend
provinces t
4. The
5. In tl
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 167
inherited event which forms the earlieft bafis of the Auftrian claim to the Hun-
etherlands arian monarchy. Upon the death of Albert, Ladiflas, king of Poland,
ary, pafled *, alfo chofen king of Hungary, but perifhes inthe battle of Werna,
emperor of againtt the Turks, The famous John Hunniades is appointed regent -of
the kingdom.
ined to the 6, On the death of another-Ladiflas, the pofthumous fon of Albert of
ad granted Aultria, in 1457, the celebrated Mathias Corvinus, fon of Hunniades,
et thofe of
ig proclaimed king of Hungary by the fates, affembled in the plain of
d, that the
Rakos, near Peft. In 1485 lie feized Vienna, and the other / ‘rian
celebrated fates, and retained them till his death in 1490. Mathias was the g. -ateft
to its vory rioce who had ever heldthe Hungarian fceptre ; brave, prudent, gene-
he view of ous, the friend of arts and letters, and a man of letters himfelf. He
1648, when founded a magnificent library at Buda, and furnifhed it with the be!t
2d as a balis Greek and Latin books, and many valuable manu{cripts.
7, After repeated contefts, the houfe of Autftria again fills the throne
of Hungary, ia the perfon of Ferdinand, 1527, but towards the end of
' yigreign the Turks feized on the greater part of this kingdom. On
his being chofen emperor of Germany, Ferdinand retained the crown of
Hungary till 1567, when he refigned it to his fon Maximilian ; and it has
fnce continued a conftant appanage of the houfe of Autftria.
The grand-duchy of Tranfylvania was confidered as a part of Hun-
ary till 1540, when, in cohfequence of a treaty between the Vaivod
and Ferdinand of A.uftria, Tranfylvania began to be regarded as a diltinét
jiate. Stephen Battori having been elected prince of Tranfylvania in
iy7, that family continued to hold this petty fovereignty till 1602,
ater which it continued fubject to feveral eleGtive princes, of whom the
noft ditinguifhed was Bethlem Gabor, or Gabriel Betlem, a noble Hun-
arian and a Calvinift, who conquered a great part of Hungary in 1619,
aid died in 1629. The laft prince of Tranfyivania was Michael Abafii,
the {econd of that name, who yielded the fovereignty to the emperor iy
1694) fince which period this country has formed a part of the Auftrian
dommions. :
The hiltorical epochs of the kingdom of Bohemia deferve more at-
tention.
1, Inthe feventh century, the Slavons, feizing on Bohemia, were ruled
by chiefs, or dukes, feemingly hereditary, at leaft after Borzivoi, who
embraced Chriftianity in the year 894. In the eleventh century Bretiflas
{ubdued the little adjacent kingdom of Moravia.
2, Vratiflas, duke of Bohemia, is honoured with the regal title by the
emperor Henry IV. in 10863; who atthe fame time invelted him with the
domains of Lufatia, Moravia, and Silefia, But this dignity was perfonal,
and the conftant title of king only dates from Premiflas IT. in 1199. He
and his immediate fucceffors are ftyled Ottocari, from their zeal in the
caufe of the emperor Otto.
One of the molt renowned monarchs was another Premiflas Ottocar,
who afcended the throne in 1253, feized Auttria and Stiria, and other
provinces to the fouth, and carried his armd into’Pruffia, In 1271 he
refufed the imperial crown, which was afterwards given to Rodolph count
of Hapfburg. 5 : ;
4. The salen lineage having failed, John, count of Luxembourg,
who had married a daughter of Schamnie became king in 1310, and was
fain at the battle of Creci, fighting againft the Englifh in 1346. His
fon and fucceffor, Charles, was alfo emperor of Germany.
5 In the reign of Wenceflas VI. king of Bohemia, and emperor,
John Hufs, having read the books of Wickliffe, the Euglith reformer,
M 4 | introduced
ong reign of
fuccelstul as
and fl.ared in
ric, duke of
tober, 1740,
The elector
-d emperer in
ny having mar. |
» fucceeded to
s defcendants,
joyed the im.
but impetuous
y his ignorance
be confidered
the events of
uftrian power,
as much com.
he kingdom of
he Huns ; and
ontinued under
crown is partly
orical events are
a great part of
rh ie by re
dying 1302,
ie eleétion 0
ary the heirels,
eirefs of Sigil
0 1 8 + an
pary, 143 al
= a = Ses
aa ae MORES REI AN 5 NES CILLA INT ALOT ILT SIN DLE LIES PIN, IN LEN IL T MIT 7 =
ae etineniamemmmmanameniandell
168 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
introduced his doétrines into Bohemia. He was condemned to th
flames in 1415. The Bohemians and Moravians have fince bec i:
remarkable for various feéts of religion, and confequent inteftine ae,
motions. The Huffites under Zifka, repeatedly defeated the toa
of their king Sigifmond, brother of Wenceflas, and alfo emperor of
Germany. ° "
6. Albert of Auftria, having wedded the daughter of Sigifmond
ceived the crowns of Bohemia and Hungary. But the fucceffion wa,
afterwards controverted and be by George Podiebrad, (a Huffite
chief, ‘who obtained from the weaknefs of the emperor Frederic Ill of
the houfe of Auftria, the crown of Bohemia in 1459,) by Vladiflas To
of the Polifh monarch, and by Mathias king of Hungary. ie
7. Louis, fon of Vladiflas, fucceeded his father in the kingdoms of
Bohemia and Hungary; but ie flain at the battle of Mohatz, 1 26
the crown finally paffed to the houfe of Auttria. ne
AntiquitiEs.] The ancient monuments of the more northern kin
doms and provinces belonging to Auftria cannot be expected to be very
numerous or important- Vindobona, and the adjacent parts of Novieun
and Pannonia, occafionally difplay Roman remains; but the ruins of
the celebrated bridge of ‘Trajan, over the Danube, belong to Turk
in Europe, being fituated not tar from Widin, in Bulgaria, it is fuppote
to have confifted of twenty arches, or rather vaft piers of {tone, originally
fupporting a wooden fabrick of the length of more than 3,300 Englit
feet. In Hungary, and other parts of the ancient province of Dacia
appear many selice of Roman power, as military roads, ruins, &c. and an
elegant hittorian remarks, ‘ that if we except Bchemia, Moravia, the &
northern fkirts of Auftria, and a part of Hungary between the Teyf;
and the Danube, all the other dominions of the houfe of Auttria were
fituate within the limits of the Roman empire *. Hungary, and the
other provinces of the Auftrian dominions, having been frequenily eX
pofed to the ravages of war, many ancient monuments have perithed 5 yet
feveral caftles, churches, and monatteries ftill atteft the magnificence of
the founders +. The cathedral church of St. Stephen, in Vienna, is 4
Gothic fabric of fingular pomp and minute decoration.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Ecclefiaftical Geography. —Government—Laws.— Population, —
Colonies. — Army.—Navy.—Revenues.— Political Importance and Relg.
tions.
HE preponderant religion of the Auftrian dominions
RELIGION. ] T is the Roman Catholic, but attended with a conf.
derable degree of toleration. Proteftants of various feéts are found in
Bohemia and Moravia ; nor are Lutherans unknown at Vienna, though
they chiefly abound in Tranfylvania } ; nay in Hungary it is believed that
the proteftants are equal in number to the catholics §. Vienna did not
become a metropolitan fee till the year 1722 : the archbifhop is a prince of
the holy Roman empire.
* Gibbon, vol. i. p. 22.
$ Bufching, vi. 540.
+ Dr. Brown's Trav, part. ii. p. 80,
§ Townfon, 181, ye a8
Govery-]
GovERN\
and approac
ancient ftate:
{o various ani
fovereign, nm
Auttria has i
burgefles 5 t]
that of the u
avail againft
army
Laws. }
every ftate ha
vigoroufly de
able, the pe
Jofeph II. af
the like free
though many
expired with
ther that of <
neral the laws
in particular
rians are ofte
againft the Gi
PopuLATiK
computed at
the Buckovin:
Of the othe
and Moravia,
25797:000 § V
Army. }
136 regiments
numerous arm
France; and
puted at 200,¢
doubling that
Navy. ]
on the ocean.
REVENUE.
ling, to whic
little more th
expences ; bu
fterling, and ¢
PoLITICAL
portance and
ting afide the
ftates, the mo
inferior to the’
and power ha
rivalry has ex
been jealous o
France, it has
diffenfion.
* Bufching
t Hoeck, /
to the
become
he Com.
troops
eror of
ond, re.
fion was
Huflite
ILI. of
flas, fon
doms of
My 1526,
rm king.
be ‘ey
Noricum
ruins of
Turkey
fuppofed
priginally
> Englith
f Dacia,
>. and an
‘aviay the &
he Teyfs
{tria were
and the
ently ex.
ed 5 yet
ficence of
nna, is 4
bulation.—
and Rela.
dominions
h a cont.
found in
a, though
lieved that
na did not
prince of
i. p. 80.
OVERS: ]
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 169
CovERNMENT.] ‘The form of government is an heredit: wenarchy,
and approaching to abfolute power. For though Hungary retains its
ancient ftates, or rather an ariftoctatical fenate, yet the dommions boeing
fo various and extenfive, and the military force wholly in the hepds aif the
fovereign, no diftin®t kingdom or ftate can withftand his wll. Even
Auttria has its ftates, confilting of four orders, clergy, peers, knights,
purgefles ; the affembly for Lower Auftria being held at Vienna, and
that of the upper at Linz *. But thofe local conftitutions can little
avail againft the will of a powerful monarch, fupported by a numerous
ei The laws vary according to the different provinces, almoft
every {tate having its peculiar code. The Hungarians in particular have
igoroufly defended their ancient laws, though in many inftances illaud-
able, the peafantry being in a ftate of villanage till 1785+. In 1786
Jofeph II. after fupprefling villanage in Bohemia and Moravia, extended
the like freedom to Hungary: and this decree remains uncancelled,
though many of the laws of that well-meaning but injudicious monarch
expired with their author. Yet the boafted freedom of Hungary is ra-
ther that of a powerful ariftocracy, than of the people at large. In ge-
neral the laws may be regarded as mild and vionea ; and the Auitrians
in particular are a well regulated and contented people, while the Hunga-
rans are often diffatisfied, and retain much of their ancient animofity
againft the Germans.
PopuLATION.] The general population of the Auftrian dominions is
computed at about 22,000,000; that of Hungary, Tranfylvania, and
the Buckovina, being eftimated at 7,880,000.
Of the other chief provinces, Bohemia is fuppofed to hold 2,806,000 ;
and Moravia, 1,256,000. The whole acquifitions in Poland contain
2797,000 $ while the archduchy of Auftria is computed at 1,820,000 t.
Army.] The army is computed by Boetticher at 365,454 men, in
136 regiments, of which 46 are Germans, and Se 11 Hungarian. This
numerous army has been greatly diminifhed in the fanguinary conteft with
France; and perhaps could not at prefent equal that of Pruffia, com-
puted at 200,000; and far lefs that of the great military power of Ruffia, .
doubling that number. :
Navy.] An Auttrian thip of the line would be regarded as a novelty :
on the ocean.
RevENUE.] The revenue is computed at more than 10,000,000l. fter-
ling, to which Auftria contributes about 3000,000l., and Hungary a
little more than a million anda half. This revenue ufed to exceed the
expences ; but the ‘public debt now, prenaniys furpafles 40,000,000l.
terling, and the recent wars have occafioned great defalcations.
PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. | Vat are the political im-
portance and extent of the relations of the Auftrian fovereignty. Set-
ting afide the confideration of this influence, as emperor, over the German
ftates, the monarch may be regarded as an equal rival of France, and only
inferior to the preponderance of Ruffia, Since the Auftrian dominions
and power have been {welled to their modern confequence, a determined
rivalry has exifted between them and France, which has, with reafon,
been jealous of the Auftrian ambition. England being alfo the rival of
France, it has Feeaiant become an unavoidable policy to maintain this
diflenfion, There are alfo caufes of confirmed jealoufy between Auttria -
* Bufching, vi. 536. laft French edition. + Townfon, 102, 107.
t Hoeck, Apercu Statiflique. Paris, 1801. :
and
170 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS,
and Pruffia; and it is doubtful if even an invafion from Ruffia would
BOL them to unite in a defenlive alliance. The inveterate wars with
Turkey, and the radical difference of religion and manners, more im
preflive from vicinity, have alfo fown irreconcilable hatred between the
Auttrians and Turks; and the ambition of Auttria eagerly confpires
with Ruffia againft European Turkey. Amidit fo many enmities, ang
the neceflary jealoufy of Ruffian power, it would be difficult to point ou
any ftate qn the continent with which Auftria could enter into a frig and
1 ding alliafice. The moft natural and conftant may be that with England
whofe maritime power might inflict deep wounds upon any enemy ; but
againit Ruffia an alliance with Pruffia would be indifpentible.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.— Language. — Literature.— Education — Univerfitis,
—Cities and Towns. — Edifices, — Manufadturcs and Commerce.
ARIOUS are the manners and ey.
MANNERS AND customs. ] toms of the numerous Eetosed
provinces fubjecét to the houfe of Auftria. Vienna, the capital, prefents
as it were an affemblage of nations, in their various dreffes.- In Auttrig
Proper the people are much at their eafe: and the farmers, and even
peafantry, little inferior to thofe of England. Travellers have remarked
the abundance of provifions at Vienna,‘ and the confequent daily luxury
of food, accompanied with great variety‘of wines, ‘Che Auftrian man.
ners are cold, but civil; the women elegant, but devoid of mental ac.
complifhments. The youth of rank are commonly ignorant, and of
courfe haughty, being entire ftrangers to the cultivation of mind, and
condefcenfion of manners, to be found among the fuperior ranks of fome
other countries, a circumftance more ftriking to the Englith traveller in
particular from the violence of the contraft. An Auftrian noblaman, or
rentleman is never feen to read, and hence polite literature is almoft un.
nown and uncultivated. In confequence of this ignorance the language
remains unpolifhed ; and the Auttrian fpeech is one of the meanett dia.
leé&ts of the German, fo that polite people are contlrained to ufe French.
The lower orders are, however, little addiéted to crimes or vices, and
unifhments rare: robberies are-feldom committed, and murder little
pais When capital punifhment becomes unavoidable, it is adminif.
_ tered with great folemnity, and accompanied with public prayers, au
example worthy of univerfal imitation.
The next people in eftimation, and the firft im numbers, are the Hun.
garians. ‘heir manners are now conliderably tinctured by thofe of the
ruling Germans, but they remain a {pirited people, and affe& to defpile
their matters. Their drefs is. well known to be peculiar, and is copied
by our huffars*. This drefs, confifting of a tight velt, mantle, and
furred cap, is graceful; and the whifkers add a military ferocity to the
appearance. ;
Larevank) The languages fpoken in thefe aggregated dominions
are numerous and difcrepant. They belong chiefly to three grand divi-
* In the Hungaian, Hu/zar implies the twentieth, becaufe twenty peafants are
obliged to furnish one hogleman tothe cavalry, Buleh, iil. 56.
fions,
flonss the (
Poles *, Pa
cient {peec
ropers Ww
fi of cou
and the Ty
ople o r
mentioned §
the ule of
propriate,
Rielbeck ol
very impure
LITERA1
tory of the
of Auttria
picles and i
milian, grat
alluding to
many aflign
Aultrian lit
jon of autl
Vienna were
others-have
Bohemia
of Prague,
Hungary hi
tary of kin;
brated Matt:
ay Hunga
claflics 3 nor
celebrity.
able works
uages, A
bere and
than the bar
partly from
Slavonic and
from numer
exitence of
of the nobil
mate officers
acribed to
owers, and
ls prohi
Index Exp
right to wat
not be exte
Epucati
tion of chil
children are
veneration fq
* Nor is it
Slavonie to:
t Katona,
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. ryt
fia would fons, the Gothic or German of the ruling nation, the Slavonic of the
vars with poles *, part of the Hungarians, the Dalmatians, &c. and alfo the an-
more im. cient fpeech ufed in Bohemia and Moravia; and laftly the Hungariaa
tween the ropers which has been confidered asa branch of the I innic. The Ita-
confpires ian of courfe prevails in the fates of Italy that are fubject to Auittria ;
ities, and ind the Tyrolefe, &c. ufe a mixture of Italian and German. Among
point ow ople of rank at Vienna the French was formerly prevalent, as already
Ari& and mentioned 5 but this fafhion is perhaps impaired by recent events, and
England, rhe ule of the polifhed German of Saxony would not only be more ap-
my ; but propriate, but might tend to diffufe a national tafte and native literature.
Rielbeck obferves that in Suabia, Bavaria, and Autlria, the German is
ery impure. Readies ;
LirerATURE:] Exclufive of the Italian provinces, the literary hif-
ryof the Auftrian dominions cannot afcend to a remote period, “T'hat
of Aultria Proper, in particular, is little interefting, and even the chro-
yicles and lives of faints are comparatively recent. If the emperor Maxi-
nilian, grandfather of Charles V., be the author of an eccentric poem
Jniverfites dluding to the events of his own life, and nfually afcribed to him, though
mn may aflign it to his chaplain, he may be confidered as the father of
Aultrian literature, as well as of Auttrian greatnefs. But the fuccef-
'§ and cuf. jon of authors is interrupted ; and many of thofe who flourifhed at
Vienna were aliens. In the medical branch, Van Swieten, Storck, and
gthershave acquired deferved celebrity.
Bohemia and Hungary have no ancient claims to literature. Cofmas
of Prague, a venerable hiftorian, flourifhed about the year 1130; and
Hungary has a contemporary father of hiftory in the anonymous no-
wry of king Bela t+. ‘The encouragement given to writers by the cele-
brated Mathias Corvinus little ftimulated native literature. Nor is there
ay Hungarian writer particularly celebrated among the modern Latin
caffics ; nor is the native language yet known by any work commanding
celebrity. Baron du Born, a native of Tranfylvania, has written many
ible works in natural hiftory ; but he ufed the Latin and French lan-
wages. An oh et into the caufes which have retarded the progrefs of
bars and philofophy in the Auftrian dominions, would be more ufeful
than the bare enumeration of a few names 3 they would be found to arife
partly from the coarfenefs of the German diale¢t, and the abfence of the
Slavonic and Flungarian from the learned languages of Europe ; partly
from numerous wars of ambition, which fometimes endanger the very
exiltence of the ftate; in yet greater meafure from the military education
of the nobility, or rather indeed from their ignorance, for many confum-
mate officers have been men of letters; but above all, this defect miuft be
acribed to that metaphyfical bigotry which perverts their rational
ete and ha every bud of genius and folid knowledge. The
doms and
1, prefents
In Auttria
3, and even
e remarked
aily luxury
iftrian man.
mental ac.
nt, and of
mind, and
ks of fome
traveller in
blaman, or
s almoft un.
1e language
eanelt dia.
fe French.
vices, and
urder little
is adminif-
rayers, an
e the Hun. ooks prohibited at Vienna probably exceed in number thofe of the
hofe of the Index Expurgatorius ; and thovgh the government have no doubt a
to defpiic right to watch over thofe of a political tendency, yet this jealoufy needs
not be extended to works of mere fcience, written by heretics.
EpucaTion.] ‘The emprefs Therefa inftituted {chools for the educa-
tion of children, but none for the education of teachers. Hence the
children are taught metaphyfics before they know Latin ; and a blind
veneration for the monks forms one cf the firft exertions of nafcent reafon.
id is copied
antle, and
bcity to the
h dominions
grand divi- ;
* Nor is it difufed in Bohemia, which ae | be regarded as the exireme weftern limit of
Slavonic tongue ; for the people’ extend to the mouth of the Elbe.
+ Katona, Hilt, Crit. Hung. Proleg.
peafants are
fons,
Ye
172 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS,
Yet the example is iy laudable, and with all its difadvantages ep
lead to important confequences.
Universitizs.] The univerfities, like thofe in other Catholic coun
he fciences
taught with the greateft care are precifely thofe which are of the {mallet
utility. Theuniverfity of Vienna has, fince the year 1752, been fome.
Y ;
gary chiefly boafts of Buda, though the Jefuits inftituted academies a
A late traveller + informs us that the univerfity of
Buda, by the Germans called Offen, poffeffes an income of aboy
20,000I. fterling, only 4000 of which are applied to pay the falaries of
the profeffors. ‘* Befides the ufual chairs, which exift in every univerfit _
tries, little promote the progrefs of folid knowledge.
what improved. It was founded in 1237, and that of Prague in
that of Infpruck only dates from 1677, and Gratz trom 1585 *,
Raab and Cafchau.
there are thofe of natural hiftory, botany, and economy. The colledtion
of inftruments for natural philofophy, and the models of machines, are
good ; and the mufeum of natural hiftory, which contains the collection
of the late profeffor Piller, befides that of the univerfity, may be ranked
among the fine collections of Europe.’ There is a Calvini college or
univerfity at Debretzin ; and the bifhop of Erlau has recently eftablithed
a fplendid univerfity at that city }.
Cities AND Towns. }' Vienna, the chief city of the Auftrian dominions
lies on the S. or rather W. fide of the Denuhe, in a fertile plain watered
by a branch of that river, (beyond which ftands the fuburb of Leopold.
ftadt,) and by the little river Wien. The Danube is here very wide
and contains feveral woody ifles: the country towards the N. and E, js
level, but on the S. and W. hilly, and variegated with trees, It jg
founded on the {cite of the ancient Vindobona; but was of little note til]
the twelfth century, when it ‘became the refidence of the dukes of
Auftria, and was fortified in the manner of that age. The manufac.
tures are little remarkable, though fome inland commerce be tranfaGed
on the noble ftream of the Danube. The number of inhabitants js
computed at 254,000. The fuburbs are far more extenfive than the
city, ftanding at a confiderable diftance from the walls. The houfes are
generally of brick covered with ftucco, in a more durable manner than
commonly praétifed in England ; the fineft fand being chofen, and the
lime, after having been flacked, remaining for a twelvemonth, covered
with fand and boards, before it be applied to the intended ufe. The
chief edifices are the metropolitan church of St. Stephen, the imperial
palace, library, and arfenal, A oe houfe of aflembly for the ftates of Lower
Auttria, the council-houfe, the univerfity, and fome monafteries, The
prater, or imperial park, is an ifland in the Danube well planted with
wood ; and to the fouth is the chapel of Herenhartz, which during Lent is
much frequented for the fake of amufement, as well as of devotion. Pro.
vifions of all kinds abound in Vienna, particularly wild boars, venifon,
and game; many {mall birds rejected by us being included among the
latter. Livers of geefe are efteemed a peculiar delicacy ; nor are tor.
toifes, frogs, and {nails rejected ||. The people delight in the combats
of wild beaits, and of bulls. In one of the fuburbs is the palace of
Belvidere, which formerly belonged to Prince Eugene: and at the dif.
* Dufrefnoy, Methode Geog, iii. 271. + Townfon, p. 79.
¢ Ib. 258. 295,
\| Riefbeck, himfelf a German, blames the Auftrians, i. 237, for gluttony, and a
certain indeferibable cuarfe pride, Yet he highly praifes the f{chools, p. 260. The
richeft fubjed& 2 his account was Prince Lichtenftein, who had about 90,0001, flerling a
year, whire Efterhazy only enjoyed 60,0001.
é tance
tance of 2 few
Vienna be mi
fouther'n hills |
complains of (
general is imp!
The honou
chimed by F
metropolis of
which there 18
tions are of {rr
three {tories in
frequent fiege
atof the poy
Next, thous
fuppofed to hc
river Muehr, ji
bank. » There
river is placed
Prefburg, th
bitants, its pre
capital had bee
jtuated on th
being only abor
is il more un
npid, and abou
bitants are Lut
taxes. A gooc
pleafure of the i
Buda, by th
y, is now r
the city of Pe
the Danube, ov
becomputed at
Peth, and witl
and ftatel yyedific
thofe of Vienng
In 1784 the fea
bing reftoxed fh
till be regardec
Schemnitz and
Hermanftadt, t
It isthe chief
The Buckovina,
town of confeq
That part of
two provinces,
Leopold of 20.
Among the Poli
the capital of t
This city ftand
fortified,
Brunn, in Ma
ountry, at 12,0
* Townfon, p.
Ses may
lic coun.
{ciences
lemies at
erfity of
f about
alaries of
niverfity, |
olle&tion
ines, are
collection
e ranked
college or
{tablifhed
ominions,
n watered
Leopold.
ery wide,
and E, is
es, It is
le note till
dukes of
manufac.
ranfaGed
bitants ‘is
than the
oufes are
ner than
» and the
» covered
fe. The
e imperial
of Lower
es. The
ted with
g Lent is
bn. Pro.
» venifon,
mong the
br are tor.
combats
palace of
t the dif.
bny, and a
260. The
bl, flerling a
tance
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 173
h
the
claimed
metropol
which t
pid, and about 250 yards in breadth. About one quarter of the inha-
titants are Lutherans, who are fo opulent as to pay about one half the
ues) A good theatre, and convenient coffee-houfes contribute to the
pleafure of the inhabitants. Jews alfo abound in this city. .
Buda, by the Germans called Offen, the ancient metropolis of Hun-
y, is now reduced to little more than 20,000 inhabitants; but if
the city of Pefth be included, which ftands on the oppofite fide of
te Danube, over which there is a bridge of boats, the population may
becomputed at 34,000. Tlie chief publiceand private buildings are in
Peth, and within the fortrefs: the royal palace in particular is a =e
ud ftatelyedifice, At Buda there are hot {prings ; and the people, like
thofe of Vienna, delight in bull fights and exhibitions of wild beatts.
In 1784 the feat of the provincial government, and the public offices
bring reftoxed from Prefburgh to Buda, the latter joined with Pefth may
lillbe regarded as the capital of Hungary *. The mining cities of
Schemnitz and Cremnitz do not exceed 8000 inhabitants each + ; but
Hermanttadt, the capital of Tranfylvania, is fuppofed to contain 17,000.
It isthe chief feat of the Saxon colony, but the air is unhealthy.
The Buckovina, annexed to the Auftrian territory in 1777, contains no
town of confequence. %
That part of Poland which was acquired in 1772, and divided into
two provinces, called Galitzia and Lodomiria, prefents Lemberg, or
Leopold of 20,000 inhabitants, and fome other confiderable towns.
Among the Polifh acquifitions muit alfo be named Cracow, anciently
the capital of that kingdom, and eftimated to contain 24,000 people.
This city ftands on the Viftula and has a caftle, but is poorly
fortified.
Brunn, in Moravia, is computed at 18,000, and Olmutz, in the fame
ountry, at 12,000; and the latter number is alfo afligned to Troppau,
* Townfon, p. 90, + Hoeck puts Cremnitz at 4000.
174 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS,
in the Anftrian part of Silefia. Inthe fouthern Provinces, Infpruck
and T'rent are fuppofed each to contain 10,000 fouls, _ Triefte, whict
is reckoned at 18,000, deferves more particular attention, having Seen
for along time the only fea-port belonging to Auttria. _It is fituateg
ona guiph of the Adriatic, and rifes on an afcent which 18 Crowned }
ucaftle. "The fhipping is fecured by a wall, extending from the Laza.
. veand §
retto to the ifle of Zaka 3 and the harbour was declared free by the em. ine ile
prefs Therefa, The neighbourhood produces excellent wines, Mineral 1
Enprricrs.] Some towns in the Auftrian part of Italy, and in Dal.
matia, might here deferve notice, were there not Uncertainties concern.
ing the duration of their fubjection to Auttria, ‘The chief public edifices
are at Vienna, Buda, and Petth, to which may now be added Venice;
ut there are many {plendid churches and monatteries in th
regions of the Auttrian domination. Many of the Hungarian
CLIMATE AN
fometimes ex)
nal enjoy delis
© feveral
nobility,
i : The more no’
hav ft eftates, poffefs caftles of corre{ponding magnificence, ay sees ie
heat she chee ee the Palefy, Schaki, Erdoby, Sichy, Forgathh, Lethe
Kohari, Karoly ; but above all Efterhazy, whofe cattle, about a day's i fn eae
journcy from Prefburgh, is faid to rival Verfailles in pomp ; and feems alfo g
and unwolefor
hut the blatts
to rival that palace in the furrounding defolation, being in a morally
country near the Neufidler lake *.
remedy thefe
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCT. | sie poAesicat to he ind vigour.
cultivated to a great extent in any par Inions, FACE OF Tr
- erhaps equals any of the other cities in manufactures which ‘ Auftri
hiss Af. filk. gold ad filver lace, cloths, ftuffs, ftockings, linen, atime do
mirrors, porcelain; with filver plate, and feveral articles in brafs +, ete on the
Pohemia 1s celebrated for beautiful, lafs and paper. But the com etien Alps
merce of the Auitrian dominions chiefly depends upon their native opu wrth of Cari
lence ; Auttria Proper and the fouthern provinces producing abundance ‘ol bn afeanilt
of horfes and cattle, corn, flax, faffron, and varigus wines, With feve devation. ‘T"
" yal metals, particularly quick{ilver from the mines of Idria. Bohemia and brights 5 and
Moravia are alfo rich in oxen and fheep, corn, flax, atid hemp ; in which tains, which o1
they are rivalled by the difmembered provinces of Poland. The wi ie neath andi
- and marfhy plains of Hungary often prefent excellent pafturage for ny by another eles
merous herds of cattle ; and the more favoured parts of that country pr inthe fouth the
duce corn, rice, the rich wines of Tokay, and tobacco of an exquil shins to be fou
flavour, with great and celebrated mines of various metals and miners Thisamplee
The Auftrian territories in general are fo abundant in the various nec merticularly th
farics and. luxuries of life, to be found either in the north or fouth OF hich flows th
Europe, that the imports feem to be few and inconiiderable, "The chis ditri@ which
exports are from the port of T'riefte, confifting of quickfilver and othe Aniston ine
metals, with wines and various native products, Dr. Townfon gives inerefting an
table of the exports of Hungary for one year, from whiclf it appears t) df Europe unite
they confitted chiefly of cattle, hogs, fheep, flour, wheat, ry eee Sor, AND AC
and wine, carried to other Auttrian provinces ; and only about one-fevent
fertile and prod
part fent te foreign countries. nitted many pa
wide forefts andi
fprde, thofe ve
The {tate of ag
by Flemith fa
Rivers.) In
dominions, the
a itteam rifes in §
it humble founta
the courfe be oc
e Riefback, ti, 49. 66.
+ Rulching, vi. $44.
CHA
nfpruck
9 wh h
ing been
fituated
whed by
he Laza.
y the em.
in Dal.
concern.
ic edifices
| Venice;
le feveral
1 nobility,
rnificence,
Forgath,
ut a day’s &
feems alfo
a morally
eem. to be
dominions,
ures which
with {eve
ohemia and
rye, Wood
t One-levent
GHA
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
cinate and Seafons.— Face of the Country. — Soil and Agriculture. Rivers,
_—Lakes. Mountains —-Forefts.— Botany.—-Zoology.— Mineralogy.—
Mineral Waters. — Natural Curiofities.
7 ; i Ree climate of Auftria Proper is come
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] monly mild and. falubrieus, though
fometimes expofed to violent winds and the fouthern provinces in gene-
nl enjoy delightful temperature, if the mountainous parts be excepted.
The more nothern regions of Bohemia and Moravia, with the late ac-
qufitions in Poland, can likewife boaft the maturity of the grape, and of
entle and favourable weather. ‘The numerous lakes, and moraffes of
Hungary, and the prociaeus plains, are fuppofed to render the air damp
and unwolefome, the cold of the night rivalling the heat of the day ;
hut the blafts from the Carpathian mountains feem in fome meafure to
remedy thefe evils, the inhabitants being rather remarkable for health
d vigour.
es OF THE CouNTRY.] The appearance of the various regions fub-
to Auftria is rather mountainous than level, prefenting a ftriking con-
trait in this refpect to thofe of Ruffia and Pruffia. Commencing at Bre-
ventz on the lake of Conftance, we find chains of mountains, and the
Rhetian Alps, and glaciers of Tyrol, branching out on the fouth and
north of Carinthia and Carniola. Another chain pervades Dalmatia,
and on afcending towards the north, Stiria difplays chains of confiderable
devation. The fouthern limit of Auttria Proper is marked by other
heights ; and Bohemia and Moravia are almoft encircled by various moun-
tains, which on the eaft join the vaft Carpathian chain, that winds along
the north and eaft of Hungary and 'Tranfylvania, divided from each other
by another elevated ridge ; the difmembered provinces of Poland, though
inthe fouth they partake of the Carpathian heights, yet afford the widelt
phins to be found within ihe limits of Auftrian power.
Thisample extent of country is alfo diverfified by many noble rivers,
puticularly the maijeftic Danube, and its tributary ftream the Tiefs,
which flows through the centre of Hungary; and fcarcely is there a
ditri which is not duly irrigated. The general face of the Auttrian
dominions may therefore be pronounced to be highly variegated and
interefting ; and the vegetable products of both the north and fouth
of Europe unite to pleafe the cye of the traveller.
Som, AND AGRICULTURE. ] The foil is upon the whole extremely
futile and productive in f{pite of the neglect of induftry, which has per.
nitted many parts of sens » and of the Polith provinces, to pafs into
wide forefts and marfhes. ere {kill and labour to affume the axe and
(pede, thofe very parts might difplay the greateft exuberance of fertility.
The {tate of agriculture in Moravia is fuperior to the reft, being improved
by Flemith farmers, '
Rivers.] In enumerating the chief rivers which pervade the Auftrian
dominions, the Danube commands the fir attention. This magnificent
tram rifes in Swabia; and.Count Marfigli has delineated and explained
it humble fountains, in his large and curious work on this river. hough
the courfe be oceafionally impeded by {mall falls and whirlpools, yet it is
’ navigable
sees
es Ang CARTED
176 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
navigable through a prodigious extent, and after watering ¢
. ° in ral)
Bavaria, Auftria Proper, Hungary, and Turkey in Europe, Fd fe
Euxine, or “Black Sea, after a comparative circuit of about ue tains, fc
Britifh miles, about one half of its progrefs being through the deeriterins Alps of
es
of Auttria. prefent
name of
Italy the
The gree
ceed tow
. Eifac de
at filex, and
MINS Be Loreazen
ward the
and Palan:
of granite
4692 feet
oftuch fee
ablaze of
Toward
covered w!
remarkable
and the inf
copper, lez
amine of g
mountains 2
runnin we granite.
Melnick The prov
chains of tr
part of the former ki and the Jul
N. W. towards the divide Cari
| forved i
Upper A
confiderable
but the p
divided fro
to the N. F
Saxony by
that implies
its junétion
fuppofed ta
chain, whic
from Silefia
The Ca
bounds Hu
atiquity.
probably the
tation: the
tnormous rid
jivornik §,
Trojafka, th
fines of the
tnother to th
bya branch
$00 miles,
© Vol. vill,
* Coxe’s Swiff, iii, ag.
ferved
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 9
' ferved i8 the general courfe of the Alpine chaing * The Brenner moun-:
wins, for fach is the modern name of the Rhetian Alps, rival the grand
Alps of Swifferland in numerous glaciers 3 and like other grand chains
+ Swabia,
; joins the
out 1300
territories prefent exterior barriers, that on the N.' being diftinguifhed by the
yameof Spitz, while that onthe S. istermed Vedretta i On leaving
Carpathian [tly there is almoft a gradual afcent, from Trent to the highelt fummit.
ft, receives
rds turning
ide, after a
es the Sau,
key, rifing
ing a courfe
au or Drave
ountains of
‘The greateft elevations arife to the N. of Sterzing, whence ftreams pro-
eed towards the river Inn on the N. and the Adige on the S., and the
fiae defcends, a precipitous torrent, amidit mmtfies of granite, petros
flex, and harble, ‘ The naked and rugged peaks ‘of the mounts .
Lorenzen, Fartf{chel, and Tfchafatfeh raife their towering heads to-:
i ward the N. W., and on the S. E. are thofe of Glander, Selfots, Pragia,
and Palanfer.. Their fummits are entirely bare ; and teem to be compoted
of granite.” The glacier moft eafy of accefs is that of Stuben, it is
4692 feet above the level of the fea, and prefents the ufual phenomena
of fuch pide with beautiful pyramids of azure, which in funthine reflec i,
laze oF light. i
Onaaide the W. and N. of Infpruck are feveral detached mountains, 1
covered with conftant fnow ; among which thofe of Verner are the moft
remarkable. Near the glaciers are found rock cryftals of various colours, |
andthe inferior ranges of the Tyrolefe mountains contain mines of filver, a
copper, lead, mercury, iron, alum, and fulphur. Inthe vale of Zill is +
j
tain of Me.
the waters
yw into the
rce than the
and joins the
that ftream,
n the Drave
. confiderable
1, and after
he Elbe near
arifes in the
aters a great
ing its courfe
nce Moravia
d paffing by
amine of gold, which bately defrays the expence and labour. The inferior
gountains are, as ufual, calcareous, or argillaceous ; but thofe of Verne,
e granite. ie
Yhe provindes of Carinthia and Carniola prefent many confiderable I
chains of mountains ; as that of Lobel which feparates thefe countries ; it
ad the Julian, or Carnic Alps, (now called Birnbaumer Wald,) which
divide Carinthia from Italy.
Upper Auftria, or the weftern part of this province, contains many
confiderable mountains, the higheft of which isin the maps called Priel,
hut the proper name is Greflenberg. ‘Towards the N., Auftria is
divided from Bohemia by a ridge of confiderable elevation, which paffes
tothe N. E. of Bavaria. On the N.W., Bohemia is parted from
Saxony by a chain of metallic mountains, called the Ertzgeberg, a word
that implies hills containing mines. On the W. of the river Eger, near
its junétion with the Elbe, ftands the mountainous group of Mileffou,
fuppofed to be the highelt in the province. On the N. E. the Sudetic
chain, which branches from the Carpathian, divides Bohemia and Moravia
fom Silefia and the Pruffian dominions,
The Carpathian mountains, that grand and extenfive chain which
bounds Hungary on the N. and. E., have been celebrated from all
utiquity. By the Germans they are ftyled the mountains of Krapak,
probably the original name, which was foftened by the Romar enun-
tation: the Hungarians, a modern people, call them ‘Tatra. ‘This
mormous ridge extends in a femicircular form from the mountain of
Jwornik S. of Silefia towards the N.W. But at the mountain of
Trojafka, the moft northern fummit, it bends to.the S.E. to the con-
fnes of the Buckovina, where it fends forth two branches, one to the E.
mother to the W. of Trranfylvania; which is alfo divided from Walachia
bya branch rumning S. W. and N. E. The whole circuit may‘be about
soomiles, The higheft fummits of thefe mountains, according te Dr.
merous, and
{mall pieces
uftria Proper,
breater extent,
genfurt ; and
any morafles,
Platte, or
th, by eight
Baeut thirty
ur in breadth,
ble for eas
tamily of El.
out eight miles
{mall lakes are
chains which
egin with the
this point of
ntion, Thefe
y or from the
uffure has ob-
© Vol. vill, 941, + Beaumont’s Ros Alps, Londen, 1792, fol. a &e.
wnfon
ferved pina
178 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
Townfon, do not exceed 8 or gooo feet, and they are for the mot part
compofed of granite and primitive limeftone,
Forests. ] To enumerate the forefts in the Auftrian dominions would
be a tafk at once laborious and fruitlefs. Suffice it to obferve, that
numerous and extenfive forefts arife in every dire€tion, particularly alon
the Carpathian mountains, and in the provinces acquired from Poland
Even Bohemia was formerly remarkable for a foreit of great extent, a
remain of the Hercynia Sylva of antiquity, which extended from the Rhine
to Sarmatia, from Cologne to Poland. The Gabreta Sylva was on the
S. W. of the fame country, where a chain of hills now divides it from
Bavaria.
Botany.] The ftates which compofe the powerful and extenfiye
empire of Auftria have been furveyed with very different degrees of
accuracy as to their natural produ€tions. While the botany of Auftria
Proper has been carefully illr ftrated by Jacquin; and that of Carniol,
by Scopoli and Hacquet, the flora of Hungary is {till very imperfeQ;
and the acquifitions in Poland by the laft and former partitions are
as yet in a manner unknown to natural hiftory. The general’ mild
temperature of the Auftrian ftates, their variety of foil and fituation,
from the lakes and rich levels of Hungary, to the fnowy fummits of
Iftria and Carinthia, are a fufficient evidence of the richnefs of their
flora; each year it is augmented by the difcovery of new fpecies, and
will doubtlefs long continue to be increafed by the inveftigations of
future botanifts. We fhall follow the plan to which we have hitherto
adhered of enumerating, as far as our narrow limits will allow, the.
principal vegetables, natives of Auftria, which for their beauty or ufe
merit particular notice; of thefe it will be found that a large propor.
tion has been admitted into our gardens, and many more, from the
elegance of their form, or glow of colour, have an equal claim to
domettication.
The bulbous-rooted plants, remarkable, for the moft part, for the
beauty of their flowers, and abounding chiefly in the warmer climates,
occupy a confpicuous rank in the flora of. Auftria, a long lift of thefe
might be produced, but we fhall feleét only the principal: thefe are the
tutted snd cluftered hyacinth ; alium victoriale, one of the moft ftately
and ornamental fpecies of the large genus garlic ; the orange lily; marta.
ZONy and turncap lily ; dog’s tooth violet, one of the earlieft beauties of
the fpring ; yellow and tawny day uly and laitly, though perhaps fu
perior in beauty to any of the preceding, veratrum album and nigrum,
white and black hellebore.
T’o the clafs decandria belong feveral interefting plants, of which the
. following are the moft worthy of mention: alpine and maiden pink;
fraxinella; and two {pecies of rhododendron, the hairy and ferruginous,
both of which merit diftin¢tion in a genus, every {pecies of which is more
than commonly beautiful.
The Linnzan clafs pentandria contains the moft beautiful of the indi.
genous plants of the Auttrian dominions, feveral of which have found
their way into our gardens. The moift and {pungy fides of the moun.
tains from the Carpathian chain to the heights of Iftria are adorned by
the foldanella alpina and aretia alpina, two minute, but exquifitely
beautiful plants, the former with purple, the latter with white and fleh-
coloured bloffoms. Among the numerous {pecies of flax, the following
very elegant ones are natives of Auftria: hairy flax; yellow flowered f.;
and Aultrian f.; with large deep-blue blofloms; the ftemlefs gentiar,
diftinguifhed
iitinguifhed
dately from
not {plendid
pearing its Ja
the ftem.
Of the pap
tree of fom
ing clufters
Several ren
noge themfel
be diftinguithe
fllows with th
ghite flowers
iitida, confpic
faves; the fa
in fome lakes
The perent
frubs, the fir
,burnaum has
the fefh-color
teefting, exce
lrgely cultivat
avery fcanty.
birch and alde
ihefnut and be
pore and map!
rch,
ZOOLOGY. ]
nonly excellen
wild, and are
ay fubjeétion.
blues and the
hiral horns, an
i. the
prts of Germ
The large br
in the Carpathi
Among the wil
wolf, the cham
fome fithes felda
ate fort of fal
MINERALOG
fr the moft va
(onfider it wit
atenfive territe
vhich cannot b
were by a defti
i Poland conta’
acavations of
fom ancient ti
in the weftern
wins of that co
oft part
$ would
ve, that
ly along
Poland,
xtent, a
re Rhine
son the
s it from
extenfive
grees of
’ Auttria
Carniola
nperfed ;
tions are
eral mild
fituation,
immits of
s of their
ecies, and
gations of
re hitherto
allow, the:
uty or ufe
ge propor.
. from the
claim to
rt, for the
er climates,
ift of thefe
efe are the
oft ftately
ily 5 marta.
beauties of
perhaps fu-
nd nigrum,
F which the
piden pink;
erruginous,
ich is more
of the indi.
have found
the moun-'
adorned by
exquifitely
te and fieh-
e following
flowered f,;
efs gentiar,
d iftinguifhed
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 179
uitinguithed by its large ere blue bell-thaped bloffom, rifing imme.
intely from the centre of the leaves; and the Pannonian gentian, the
ott {plendid of the whole genus, growing to a confiderable height, and
paring its large purple-dotted bloffoms in tufts on the top and fides of
theftem,
Of the papilionaceous plants may be enumerated the greater laburnum,
stree of fome magnitude, adorning the banks of the Danube with its
ing clufters of golden bloffoms.
Several remarkable plants, inhabitants of the Auftrian dominions, ar-
ve themfelves under the Lianzean clafs polyandria ; among thefe may
ie ditinguifhed two fpecies of Adonis, or phez ‘ant’s eye, porn the
allows with their fcarlet petals; the alpine poppy . remarkable by its fnow-
shite fowers ; mountain anemone; the Chriftmas rofe; and potentilla
sida, confpicuous for its beautiful flefh-coloured petals, and its glaucous
aves; the facred lotus of Egypt and India has alfo of late been found
iafome lakes in Hungary.
The perennial fhrubby plants may be divided into the flowering
hrubs, the fruit-bearing, and the foreft trees. Of the former clafs, the
yburnum has been already mentioned ; the reft, with the exceptioitof
ie feth-coloured heath, lilac, and German tamarifk, are {carcely in-
reting, except to botanifts. ‘The common fruit-trees of Europe are
lugely cultivated in the provinces of Auftria, but their lift of native fruits
avery fcanty. The foreft trees are, the elm; the wych elm; lime-tree;
titch and alder ; common and prickly-cupped oak ; fumach ; walnut ;
thefnut and beech; hornbeam ; black and white poplar and afpen; fyca-
pore and maple; the afh; the pine, the fir, the yew-leaved fir, and the
le
Maen The domeftic animals in the Auftrian dominions are com-
only excellent, particularly the cattle. Many of the native horfes run
vid, and are fold in great numbers at the fairs, before they have fuffered
wy fubjection, The Breed of cattle is moftly of a fingular colour, a flaty.
tes and the Hungarian fheep refemble the Walachian in their long ere¢t
firalhorns, and pendant hairy fleece. In the weitern parts of the Auftrian
inereignty the animals do not feem to be di‘tinguifhed from thofe of other
rts of Saban ‘
The large breed of wild cattle, called Urus or Bifon, is faid to be found
nthe Carpathian forefts, as well as in thofe of Lithuania and Caucafus.
Among the wild quadrupeds may alfo be named the bear, the boar, the
wlf, the chamois, the marmot, and the beaver. The Danube boafts of
me fithes feldom found in other rivers, arsong which is a {mall and dei-
ute fort of falmon.
MiveraLocy.] The mineralogy of the Auftrian dominions being by
fir the moft various and interefting of any in Europe, it will be proper to
tonfider it with fome attention. There is act a delet of this
utenfive territory, from the frontiers of Swifferland to thofe of Turkey, .
vhich cannot boaft of advantages in the mineral kingdom; and as it
mre by a deftiny attached to the houfe of Auttria, even the acquifitions
hn‘one of the moft remarkable mines in Europe, the faline
neavations of Wielitika. ‘The mines of Bohemia have been celebrated
fom ancient times®. Silver is found at Kuttenberg, and at Joachimfthal,
in the weftern frontier towards Saxony, probably a continuation of the
rins of that country; and gold has been difcovered at Keonitock, One
* Bufching, vol. vi. 126. French edit, 8ro,
Na of
180 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
of the moft fingular prodnéts of this province is tin, which {
Zinwald (that i the Rs foreft), and other wettern diftriés of me a
where is alfo found, at Dreyhacken, a mine of very pure copper, ne
occurs at Bleyitadt, in the fame quarter. The garnets of Bohemia “
among the moft beautiful of the kind. ‘They are chiefly found in bles,
mingled with mica, at Mcronitz, in the mountain of Stiefelherg, Whoa
they are carried to Bilen*. The women wath the clay in which the ic:
nets are found; after which they are fifted and arranged according to Re 1
and fold by the pound weight frém about three te ten fhillings, Man,
workmen are occupied in cutting and piercing them, for neaE ince, a
other ornaments: they are polifhed in facets, with emery on a piece éf
‘freeftone, and pierced with a fmall diamond. This branch of commerc
is of great antiquity at Carlfbad, and at Walkirk in Suabia, where twent .
eight mills are occupied in this article only. " y
The fertile archduchy of Auftria difplays few minerals, though there
be mines of gold near the abbey Goettwig, and of alum-near Krems.
faltpetre is towever prepared in abundance ; and, at a little diftance from
St. Annaberg, near the frontiers of Stiria, a rich mine of filver was
opened in 1754. The fouthern provinces of Stiria, Carinthia, ang. |
Carniola, afford many important minerals. ‘The iron of Stiria fupplies
the fineft fteel, and great quantities are imported into England: there |
are confiderable lead mines near Pegau, on the river Mohr, yielding
about 5000 tons yearly. Stiria’alfo affords coal at different rlaces.
not to mention minerals of mere beauty or curiofity, among which
may be named the fingular blue granite, which is found near Kricglach
in Stiria. ‘
On the E. of Stiria extends the duchy of Carinthia, alfo yielding
excellent iron, the mines of Friefach on the N. being particularly
famous. In the neighbourhood of Villach, at Bieyberg, are found
rich lead mines; and the fame place fupplies what is called fire-marble
or lumachelli.
Carniola, or Krain, abounds with immenfe caves, and other natural
curiofities ; but, except a few iron works, the mineralogy is little te.
inarkable. On the welt, towards the county of Gorz, which produces
excellent wines, lies the ban of Idria, a diftri¢t immediately fubje@ to
the chamber of Iniier Auttria at Gratz. The quickfilver mines of Idria
are celebrated in natural hiltory, poetry, and romance, They , were
difcovered in the year 1499; and the lull of Vogelberg has annually
yielded more than 300,000 pound weight of mercury. The common
ore is cinabar; but fometimes pure quickfilver runs through the
crevices.
On paffing into Tyrol, feveral mines occur of ancient reputation,
fuch as that of filver and lead near Lermos; and in the fame quarter
thefe of Nafercit in the Verner mountains, about 30 miles N.W, of
Infpruck, which are opulent-in filver, copper, lead, and iron +.
But the principal mines in the Auitrian dominions ure fitutted in the
ealtern provinces of Hungary and 'Tranfylvania. About 40 miles to
the S. of the Carpathian hills are the gold mines of Cremnitz 3 and 29
English miles further to the 5. the filver mines of Schemnitz : cities
which have arifen folely from thefe labours, and thence called mining
towns, Schemnitz is efteemed the principal, The academy here infti-
tuted for the ftudy of mineralogy is highly refpeétable, and only rivalled
+ Beaumont, 77, Ferber, a29,
K by
* Journ, des Min. No, iv, 36,
by that c
Schmelni
an differe
jn confide
Kifmaria,
culiar to
globe, is
The opal
N. of Ka
The hill i
they only.
various qu
covered in
which difti
The mit
valuable.
produce th
and conduc
about 25 I
ore, which
The countr:
near Zalath,
Felfobanya,
wiza, towar
and filver at
The falt 1
They are fit
§. of Craco:
the Carpach
the galleries
timber, or b
chapels are t
and extent o
fometimes int
falt appear i
gf the mine,
toW., and
MINERAL
are very nume
the exceptio
wards of 2¢¢
Baden $ an
in Hungary,
NATURAL
the grand Aly
In Carniola,
difplaying {pe
patural amphit
Carniola is th¢
bee. That ¢
more than eig
® Jours
+ Town
found at
ohemia ;
* Lead
vemia are
lin clay,
'» whence
the gar.
ig to fre,
}. Many
aces, and
b piece of
commerce
re twenty. }
ugh there
r Krems;
ance from
filver was
nthia, and: |
‘ia fupplies
and there
ry yielding.
nt places;
ong which
Krieglach,
fo yielding
particularly
are found
fire-marble,
ler natural
is little re.
h produces
y fubje& to
nes of Idria
They , were
has annually
he common
hrough the
reputation,
Ame quarter
les N.W, of
1) 929,
n+.
eu in the
40 miles to
itz and 20
mnitz,: cities
alled mining
only rivalled
- AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 181
py that of Freyberg in Saxony. Hungary contains mines of copper at
cchmelnitz and Herrengrund, of very rich antimony at Roienau ; and
iq different parts of coal, falt, and alum. Saltpetre is alfo produced
in confiderable quantities: and natron or foda is found in a lake near
Kifmaria, towards the frontier of Tranfylvania*. But a mineral pe-
culiar to Hungary, and as yet difcovered in no other region of the
globe, is the opal, a gem: preferred to all others by the oriental nations.
The opal mines*are fituated at’ Czerweniza, a fhort day’s journey to the
N. of Kafchaw, and nearly under the fame latitude with Cremnitz.
The hill in which they are found confilts of decompofed peepee ; and
hey only occur at the diftance of a few fathoms from the furface, of
various qualities, from the opake white, or femi-opal, which is alfo dif-
covered in Cornwall, to that utmoilt effulgence of iridefcent colours
which diftinguifhes this noble gem.
The mines of ‘T'ranfylvania and the Bannat are alfo nymerous and —
aluable. Thofe of Najiag, twelve Britiih miles to the N.E. of Deva,
produce the grey old ore. They ‘are the richeft in all Tranfylvania,
and conducted with the greatelt care and exactnefs, At Ofenbanya,
about 25 Britifh miles to the N. of Karlfburg, is found the white gold
ore, which alfe occurs in the hills of Fatzebay, in the fame quarter.
The country towards the W, of Karlfburg prefents numerous gold mines
near Zalathna; and in the N. of this province are thofe of Kapnick,
felfobanya, and others. The chief mining town of the Bannat is Ora-
wiza, towards the S. of which are found mines of copper ; and gold
aud filver at Dognafka to the N. : 7
The falt mines acquired trom Poland alone-remain to be defcribed.
They are fituated, as already mentioned, at Wielitfra, eight miles to the
§. of Craco’, being excavated at the northern extcemity of a branch of
the Carpachian mountains. The defcent is by pits of great depth; and
the galleries and chambers are of immenfe fizey commonly {upported by
timber, or by vaft pillars of falt, out of which material even fubterraneous
chapels are formed ; but travellers have st Nad exaggerated the {plendour
andextent of the faline apartments +. The falt is of an iron grey colour,
fometimes intermingled with white cubes ; and fometimes large blocks of
ft appear imbedded in marl t. The purett fort is found at the bottom
of the mine, and is fparry. ‘The mines extend about 3600 feet from E.
toW., and about 200 from S, to N.
MINERAL WATERS. ] The mineral waters in the Auftrian domiaions
are very numerous, as is to be expected in a country fo mountainous, with
the exception of the great plain in the W. of Hungary, extending up-
wards of 250 miles in every direction. Auftria Proper prefents thofe of
Baden s fs Bohemia thole at Carlfbad. Mineral {prings alfo abound
in Hungary.
NaTuraL currosities.] Among the natural curiofities may be named
the grand Alpine fcenes of Tyrol, the glaciers and peaks of the Brenner.
In Carniola, near Adlefberg, is faid to be a grotto of prodigious extent,
difplaying fpaces fufficient for the erection of villages, and containing
patural amphitheatres, bridges, &c.§. But the chief natural curiofity of
Carniola is the lake of Cirknita, called by Dr. Brown the Zirchnitzer
See. That traveller informs us, that it is about two German, or
more than eight Englith miles in length, by four of the latter in breadth.
# Journ. des Min. No, ile + Coxe's Pol. i. 200.
$Townfun, 388. § Bulching, vol. vii. 60.
N3 In
182 AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
In the month of June the water defcends under ground, through many
apertures in the bottom ; and in September it reafcends with confiderable
force; thus yielding rich pafturage in fummer, while in winter it abounds
with fith,
PRUSSIA.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. —Extent—Subdivifions and Population. — Original Population. Pr.
grefive Geography.—Hiftorical Epochs and Antiquities.
‘Le kingdom which .only commenced with the eighteenth century
has by gradual acceflions become fo extenfive, as defervedly ig
rank among the firft pawers of Europe. The dominicns of Prufi,
were {mall and fcattered, till the acquifition of Silefia, and afterwards
of a third part of Poland, gave a wide and ftable bafis to the ney
monarchy.
Nags.) This region was faintly known to the ancients, who Mention
various tribes that poffeffed 1t : and the amber, which here only was found
in fuch quantities as to form a regular article of commerce, greatly con.
tributed to its celebrity. The name of the country originates, accordin
to fome, from the Pruzzi, a Slavonic tribe ; but more probably, according
to others, from the name of Ruffa, and the Slavonic word Po, which
figuifies near, or adjacent.
Extent.] Exclufive of {mall detached territories, the kingdom of |
Pruffia extended (1806) from Hornburg and the river Oker, in the conn.
try of Halberftadt, the furtheft weftern conneéted diftridt, to the river
Memel, or about 600 miles. The breadth, from the fouthern limit of
Silefia to Dantzick, exceeds 300 miles. On the eaft and fouth, Pruffia
now borders on the dominions of Ruffia and Auttria, and the weftern
limits adjoin to the bijhopric of Hildefheim. Before the recent acquis
fitions in Poland, the number of Pruffian fubjeéts was only computed at
5,621,500, in a total extent of 56,414 fquare miles, that is about 99 to
tke fquare mile. In 1801 they amounted to above eight millions, Fie
buted according to the following lift of provinces and inhabitants,
1. Eaftern Pruffia —_ 940,000 Inhabitants.
2. Weftern Prufia — 521,625
3. Southern Pruffia — 4,100,000
4 New Eaftern Pruffia 700,000
5. Pomerania _— 472,957
ContiguousStates 6. Brandenburg or Mid.
dlemarch - 7559577
|». Newmarch —_ 2799584
8. Magdeburgh — 275,262
g. Halberftadt, or Ucker-
! march — 111,875
|, 30 Silefia Ld 3,821,065
. by the Slavo
In Weltpha
JnFranconiz
Swiflerland
The prefe
articles in th
“II. Th
bank of the
pur; 9 with ¢
duchy of Pc
of Glatz, tl
road from D
Scrudemapt,
Pomerania, |
north of the
was on the f
king of Pri
Glogan, Bre
in general al
tioned, {hall
town and cits
and Schweir
Pruffia.
“ XIIT.
provinces wl
and have at
cepting Ero
the catt of
Hulm, and a
mul, and pa
road from tla
and citadel o
Swierkorzy,
ORIGINAL
from Tacitus
Gothic tribes
of the ZEitii ¢
what precife
to obferve, t
many, after ¢
h many
iderable
abounds
tim Pro.
century,
rvedly to
of Pruffia
fterwards
» the hew
1 mention
was found
eatly con.
according
accordin
"0s which
ingdom of |
n the coun.
© the river
rn limit of
th, Pruffia
he weftern
ent acquis
bmputed at
bout 99 to
Ons, diltris
nts.
nhabitants.
‘PRUSSIA.
(11. Minden — 67,052
12. Ravenfburgh — 81,812
| 13. Eaft Friefland — 102,594
14. Cleves — 100,000
In Weftphalia 15. Moers 17,000
16.Mark — 121,984
17. Gelder ° 48,000
18. Tecklenburg 175234
19. Lingen 23,432
20. Anfpach 215,256
21. Bayreuth © ' 205,440
Swifferland 22. Neufchatel 42,500
JnFranconia
8,d21,149*
The prefent boundaries of Pruffia may be eftimated by the following
articles in the treaty of peace with France in 1807.
«II, The part of the duchy of Magdeburg, which lies on the right
hank of the -Elhe, the Mark of Prerignitz, the Ukermark of Brande-..
jurg, with exception of the circle of Kotbers in Lower Lufatia, the
duchy of Pomerania, Upper, Lowe, and’New Gilefia, with the county
of Glatz, the part of the diftri€t of Nefs which lies to the north of the
road from Driefen, Schreidemath, and to the north of a line paffing from
Scrudemapt, by Walden, to the Viftula and to the circle of Bromberge,
Pomerania, the ifland of Nogat, to the weft of Old Pruffia, and the
north of the circle of Culmor; finally the kingdom of Pruffia, as it
wason the firft of January 1772, fhall be reftored to his majefty the
king of Pruffia, with the fortreffes of Spandau, Stettin, Cuftrin,
Glogan, Breflau, Schwiednitz, Neiffe, Brieg, Cofel, and Glatz, and
in general all the places, citadels, caftles and forts, of the above-men-
‘tioned, {hall be reftored in the ftate in which they at prefent are. The
town and citadel of Grandenz, with the villages of Neudorf, Parfchken,
and Schweirkorzy, fhall likewife be reltored to his majefty the king of
Pruffia.
“XIIL. The king of Pruffia renounces for ever poffeffion of all the
provinces which formerly conttituted parts of the kingdom of Poland,
and have at different periods come under the dominion of Pruffia, ex«
cepting Eraneland, and the country to the welt of ancient Pruffia, to
thecatt of Pomerania, and the New Mark tothe north of the circle of
Hulm, and a line which paffes from the Viftula by Waldan to Schneide-
mul, and paffes along the boundaries of the ike Bromberg, and the
road from the Schneidemul to Driefen, which provinces, with the town
and citadel of Grandenz, and the villages of Neudorf, Parfchken, and
Swierkorzy, fhall in future be poffeffed by the king of Pruffia.’’
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population of Pruffia appears,
from Tacitus and Pliny, to have confitted of the Peucini and iti,
Gothic tribes bordering on the Venedi, who were Slavons, The amber
of the AE itii continued to be celebrated in the time of Theodoric ; but at
what precife period thefe original inhabitants were expelled, or fubcued,
. by the Slavonic tribes on the ea{t, remains uncertain. Suffice it in general
toobferve, that the Slavonic tribes extended widely over the N. of Ger-
many, after the old Gothic inhabitants had crowded to the more fertile
® Hoeck, 1801, ’
N4 - regione
184. | PRUSSIA.
regions of the fouth, in confequence of the decline and fall of the Roman
empire, \ a F
ROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. e progreflive geograph
provinces which now hota Proftian tertitogys i Boma
broiled and multifarious topic. One of the moft fingular features in the
geography of thefe regions, during the middle ages, is the exiftence of
Julin, acity of great extent and commerce, on the right bank of tho
Oder in Pomerania, which was deftroyed by Waldemar, king of Den
mark. Farther to the eaft the Slavonic tribes on the Baltic continued
pagans to a late period; and -the country was little known or vifited
except by a fpecies of crufaders, who went to affift the Teutonic
knights in fubduing thofe Saracens, as they were ftyled in the iano.
rance of the times. es
Historica epocus.] As this kingdom is recent, and compofed of
Several ancient ftates, its hiftorical epochs and antiquities are of courfa
complex. Not to mention the {maller provinces, among which is the
diftant principality of Neufchatel, on the frontiers of Trance and Swif,
ferland,’ Pruffia may be regarded as confifting of four great divifions, the
ele&torate of Brandenburg ; the kingdom of Pruffia Proper ; the large
province of Silefia; anda third part of the ancient kingdom of Poland,
As the family which now rules thofe extenfive domains was originally
the ele€toral houfe of Brandenburg, it will be proper Srft to trace the
progrefs of its pawer.
1. The emperor Charles IV., in 1373, affigned Brandenburg to hig
fecond fon Sigifmund, who, in 1415, being then emperor of Germany,
fold his margraviate and ele€torate to Frederic burgrave of Nurembur ,
for 400,000 ducats. This prince was the anceltor of the prefent reign,
ing race.
2. Joachim II. elector of Brandenburg, embraced the Lutheran reli,
gion in 1539, which has fince been the ruling fyftem of the ftate.
3+ John Sigifmond becomes duke of Pruffia in 1638.
4 Frederic’ William, furnamed the Great Eleétor, fucceeded hig
father in 1640; and in 1656 compelled the king of Poland to declare
Pruffia an independent ftate, it having formerly been held of the Polith
fovereigns, This prince is highly praifed by his royal defcendant, the
author of Memoirs of the Houfe o Brandenburg, as the chief founder
pf the power of that family. He was fucceeded in 1688 by his fon,
5. Frederic III., or I. as King, who, fupporting the emperor in
the conteft for the Spanith fucceffion, was by him declared king of
Pruffia: under which title he was proclaimed at Konigfberg, on the
so day of January, 1701, he himfelf placing the crown upon his
a
6. Frederic William II., or J. as King, afcended the throne in 1713;
and in 1721 founded the city of Potfdam. But he was chiefly re.
markable as the father of that great prince Frederic II. *, who afcended
the.throne in 1740, and died in 1786, after a long and glorious reign;
the moft memorable and lating event of which wag the acquifition of
Silefia from the houfe of Auftriain 1742.
4, The fhort reign of his nephew is known to every reader. The
ilure of the Pruffian taétics in France and Poland convinced Europe
that the great Frederic had been the foul of the maghine, But thele
@ In the regal genealogy the name of Frederic alone is confidered 9s diftin®t from thyt
Reece Wiiae, os
gRecae
a
«checks we
in Poland
‘all others,
duced to
The hi
ducidatiot
has alreac
agesy difc
nation, WI
order.
1. This
before Ac
year a bull
vileges gre
having fail
the N. of
and founde
a The
againit the
wars with
ities of Pi
their allegi:
Poland.
3. In 14
don to hin
weltern par
4. Alber
his materna
of all that
religion.
5. In 16
duchy ; and
king of Pol
Silefia a
a Slavonic p
John of Lu
to the houfe
ancient. clai
{word in 1974
As not o
parative con
mn fact this
chief cities
bafis of that
of power, i
epochs of th
1, Even i
mate, or Sle
fixth centur
A. D. 842.
2 Uladfla
and was fucc
3. The h
throne in 14
with pretende
PRUSSIA. 185
R - schocks were recompenced by the completion of the Pruffian acquifitions
Peserean) in Poland. ‘lhe reign of his fon, the prefent monarch, has proved, of
of thofe ‘ others, the moit unfottunate, the Pruflian monarchy being now re-
n an ems duced to a cypher. ‘ F
es in the The hiftorical epochs of Pruffia Proper are not deferving of much
fKence of ducidation. ‘The knowledge of the ancients concerning this country
k of the jas already been explained. A faint dawn of hiltory, in the middle
of Den ages, difclofes at the mouth of the Viitula the Prnzzi, a Slavonig
sontinued ration, who were afterwards ‘{ubdued by the knights of the Teutonic
rr vifited, order. +8 ‘
Teutonic 1. This order originated A.D. 1199, in the camp of the crufadere
refore Acca, or Acre, from fome citizens of Lubec and Bremen, Next
the igno. Sane ont : ; : :
¥ ata bull of inftitution was obtained from the pope, with all the pri-
‘leges granted to the knights templars. The crufades to Paleftine
a esi a filed, the knights directed their ent :rprize again{t the pagans of
ich is the the N. of Germany, A.D. 1227; and ina few years conquered Pruffia,
and Swif, and founded feveral cities, a 7
Fifions, the 2, The knights thus eftablithed in Pruffia direéted their efforts
, the large gaint the Lithuanians, and other pagans in the eaft. But. repeated
of Poland, wars with Poland were lefs fortunate; and about 1446 the four chief
originally ties of Prufa, Elbing, Thorn, Konigfberg, and Dantzick, withdrew
trace the their allegiance from the Teutonic order, and claimed the protedtion of
oland. ,
; 3. In 1466, Cafimir king of Poland forced the Teutonic order to abane
don to him the eaftern part of Prufiia, and to pay homage for the
weltern part. *
4. Albert of Brandenburg, grand-mafter of the order, obtained from
his maternal uncle, Sigifmund king of Poland, the hereditary inveltiture
of all that the order poffeffed in Pruffia, and embraced the Lutheran
religion.
j. In 1618, John Sigifmund, elector of Brandenburg, acquired this
duchy ; and in 1621 his fucceffor received the folemn invettiture from the
yurg to his
Germany,
Juremburg,
efent reign.
theran reli,
ate.
ceeded his
i to declare king of Poland. ;
the Polith Silefia affords few materials for hiftory. This country was formerly
endant, the a Slavonic province of the Polifh dominions; but in 1339 was feized by
hief founder John of Luxemburg king of Bohemia, and paffed with that fovereignty
his fon. to the houfe of Aubria, The houfe of Brandenburg certainly hag fume
emperor in ancient claims to this province, which were finally afcertained by the
ed king of {word in 1742, a8 already mentioned.
prg, on the Asnot only the recent acquifitions in Poland were of far more com-
n upon his arative confequence to Pruffia, than either to Auftria or Ruffia; and as
m fa this fovereignty was in poffeffion of the metropolis, and all the
chief cities and ports of Poland, and may be fafd to exift only on the
bafis of that ancient kingdom, which it reprefented in the modern balance
of power, it will be proper here to repeat, in a few words, the chief
epochs of the Polith hiltory.
1, Evea in the Roman times Poland was chiefly poffeffed by the Sur-
mate, or Slavons; and the Poles pretend to trace their dukes from the
fxth century, - But the authentic hiftory only begins with Piaft,
»D. 842. In 992 the Chriftian religion was introduced.
2. Uladflas, duke of Poland, affumed the title of king, A. D. 1320;
gd was fucceeded by his fon Cafimir, furnamed the Great.
' . The houfe of peecllon, dukes of Lithuania, afcended the Polith
throne in 1384, and ruled till 1572, in hereditary fucceffion, though
with pretended election, e ;
| 4 The
e in 1713;
chiefly re-
o afcended
ous reign;
guifition of
nder. The
ed Europe
But ‘thefe
inG from that
ghecks
186 PRUSSIA
___4+ The throne of Poland becomes merely elective in the perfon of
Henry de Valois, 1574; but it was afterwards chiefly contefted by native
princes, and by the electors of Saxony,
5», John Sobietki, king of Poland, in 1683 forced the Turks to raife
a fiege of Vienna, which was the laft valjant aétion atchieved by the
oles. .
6. The recent annihilation of the monarchy.
Aytiquitizs.] From this general view of the component parts of the
Pruffian hiftory it will appear that few ancient monuments can be expeéted
in regions, where even a rude knowledge of the arts is comparatively _
fo recent. Some Slavonic idols, caft in bronze, conititute almof the
only pagan antiquities ; and the caftles, and churches, ereéted after the
introduction of the Chriftian religion, have few fingularities. to attrad
particular attention. The Polith coinage begins about the twelfth cen,
tury, and is upon the German model.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Ecclefiaftical Geography. —G overnment.— Laws.—C Olonits sm
Army.—Navy.— Revenues.—Political Imporiance and Relations.
HE ruling religion of Pruffia is the proteftant,
Rexiciow. J T under jts ae chief divifions of Lifihersy and Cal.
viniftic. But after the recent acquilitions in Poland it would feem that
the greater number of the inhabitants muft be Roman Catholic. The
univerfal toleration which has been wifely embraced by the Pruffian
monarchs, has had its ufual effect of abating theological enmity, and the
different fe€ts feem to live in perfeét concord.
Ecc.estastic GEOGRAPHY. ] The ecclefiaftical geography of Pruffa
would be at once little interefting, and of difficult detail. The bifhoprics
in Poland and Silefia feem to retain their ancient limits, while the power
of the prelates is confiderably ap
GovERNMEST, arcs} As no veftige of any fenate or delegates from
the péople is known in this kingdom, it muft be pronounced an abfolute
government ; but the fpirit and good fenfe of the nation unite with the
wifdom and mildnefs of fucceflive monarchs, (who have uniformly withed
to invite foreign {cttlers by views of eafe and freedom, inftead of ex.
pelling their own people by rigours) to render the fovereignty as con.
ciliatory, and perhaps more beneficent, than if joined with a vena
fenate. The late great monarch reformed many abufes in the laws; but
it cannot be difguifed that the tenor of his government was too nili.
tary, a fault inherent in the Pruffian fyftem.
oLontEs,] No foreign colonies have emigrated from Pruffia; and
it has been indeed a chief object with the monarchs to colonize the
country itfelf.
Army.] The army is fuppofed to amount to about 237,000, in
cluding about 40,000 cavalry. The taétics of the late able fovereign
conferred diltinguifhed reputation on the Pruffian battalions, but they ar
now fuppofed not to exceed the Auftrian ; and military men confder
both as‘inferior to thofe of Ruffia, who feem to be juftly regarded as th:
‘deft troops in Europe. ,
¢ * Navy.)
Navy. ]
Baltic, ma’
hitherto the
REVENU
efimated a
2,275,000.
ferling yea
of Poland v
fuppofe hal.
be importa
dom from 1
been regard
owerSe
PoLITICA
importance
hitory of tl
would have
energy, ma)
cufive only
dominions,
portance to
to permit R
In regard
Ruffia, and
been enforce
is amore nec
as both have
can effentiall
onderatingr 1
fe the defen
for which pu
mented by e
and Sweden,
the fole bar
Manners and
— Cities a
fadures an
MANNERS A}
tants, recent
cordant. ‘T’
who are a li
gloomy ; ac]
ment, aud pa
by the repea
erfon of
dy native
8 toraife
d by the
rts of the
expected
aratively
matt the
after the
0 attrad
elfth cen,
Colonies.
tions.
proteftant,
n and Cal.
| feem that
olic. The
ne Pruffian
ty, and the
y of Pruffia
e bifhoprics
e the power
legates from
an abfolute
te with the
rmly withed
ead of ex.
ty as con
ith a venal
e laws; but
las too mili.
Pruffia ; and
colonize the
371000, ite
ble fovereign
but they are
en conder
* arded asthe
Navys.]
PRUSSIA. 187
Navy.] The acquifition of Dantzick, and fome other ports in the
Baltic) may in time place Pruffia among the maritime powers; but
pitherto the fole attention has been paid to the land fervice.
REVENUES. ] Before the additions of Polith territory the revenue was
eftimated at 3»880,000l. fterling; and the expence of the army at
3,275,0001* — Frederic If. laudably expended about half a million
ferling yearly, in the improvement of his dominions. ‘The entire revenue
of Poland was not computed to exceed 439,5461. fterling. If we even
fuppofe half of this added to the Pruffian revenue, the refult would not
he important; Pruffia, however, has the fupreme advantage of free.
dom from national debt, whence the finallnefs of the revenue has never
heen regarded as detracting from its pofition among the chief European
wer.
"POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS.] (1806.) ‘The political
importance and relations of this kingdom have imprefled the European
hitory of this century with new and diftinét features. What Poland
would have been, if bleffed with a happier government, and executive
energy, may be conceived from the prefent appearance of Pruffia, ex-
clufive only of one circumftance that of contiguity with the Ottoman
dominions. An alliance with Pruffia would be indeed of fupreme im.
ortance to. the Turkifh empire; nor can it be the interelt of Pruffia
to permit Ruffia to extend her aggrandizements.
In regard to the other chief powers of Europe, England, France,
Rufia, and Auftria, an alliance of the firft with Pruffia has repeatedly
been enforced by circumitances; but it cannot be difguifed that there
jsamore neceflary and important conneétion between Pruflia and France,
as both have caufe to be jealous of the Auftrian power, which France
can effcntially injure, while England is by nature debarred from any pre-
ponderating interference. But achief province of Pruffian politics muft
be the defence of the country againft the arms and influence of Ruffia,
for which purpofe-a moft important ftep would be a firm alliance, ce.
mented by every political tie and intereft, between Pruffia, Denmark,
and Sweden, which, if the Ruffian empire remain undivided, will be
the fole barrier of continental independence,
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.—L iterature,—Education.— Univerfities
— Cities and Towns. — Edifices.—Roads.~Inland Navigation —Manu-
fadures and Commerce.
HE manners and cuftoms of a count
compofed of fuch various inhabi.
tants, recently united under one fovereignty, mutt of courfe be dif.
cordant. ‘Travellers have remarked that, in comparifon with the Saxong,
who are a lively and contented people, the Pruffians appear dull and
gloomy ; a character which they impute partly to the military govern.
ment, aud partly to the general anxiety which muft have been excited
by the repented dangers to which their country was expofed, when
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. ]
Buctticher, Pr 50
contending
388 PRUSSIA.
contending with the powers of Ruffia and Auftria, As to the Pol
they feem full of life and action, but their features and general ap nay
ance are rather Afiatic than European. ‘Men of all ranks deiealt
wear whifkers, and fhave their heads, leaving only a circle of hair y y
the crown. ‘T'he drefs of the higher orders, both men and whet C
uncommonly elegant, That of the gentlemen is a waiftcoat with fleeves,
ever which’ they wear an upper robe of a different colour, which
reaches down below the knee, and is faftened round the wait with a
fat or gifdle ; the fleeves of this upper garment are, in warm weather
tied behind the fhoulders ; a fabre is a neceffary part of their drefs, A
amark of nobility. In fummer the robe, &c. is of filk, in winter of
cloth, velvet, or ituff, edged with fur. They wear fur caps or bon. |
nets, and buikins of yellow leather, the heels of which are plated with
iron or fteel. The drefs of the ladies is a fimple polonaife or long robe
edged with fur *.” ,
anquacst.] The ruling language of Pruffia is the German, which
it is probable may in time fupplant the Polifh, in thofe parts which are
fubjeé to Pruffia and Auitria.
ITERATURE.] The literature of Pruffia may well be conceived to
be of recent origin: nor even after the reftoration of lctters did any te.
markable author arife in the cleCtorate of Brandenburg. But Dantzick
was the native country of Cluverius, an eminent geographer ; and Co.
pernicus, a great name in aftronomy, was born at Thorn, as his prec»,
ceffor Regiomontanus was’at Konigfberg, his name being a Latin tranf.
lation of that of his birth-place. Silefia has likewife few pretentions to
literary fame, nor are thofe of Poland highly illuttrions, Kadlubko, the
moft ancient Polifh hiflorian, wrote in 12233 and fince his time, thers
has been a fucceffion of Latin chroniclers. Frederic the Great had g
mean opinion of German literature ; and though he wrote in French,
mutt be clafled among thg mo‘t diftinguifhed authors of his kingdom,
Nor is Count Hertfberg, his minitter, without merit. Among the other
names, either natives or who flourified in Pruffia, may be mentioned
Ramler the poet, Nicolai an original writer of romances, &e. Buf.
ching the geographer, Spalding, and Mendelfohn +.
EpycaTion.] The flate ot education in this country feems to bs
equally neglected as in the far greater part of Europe. The number of
recruits wanted for the army, and the confequent uncertainty of deitina.
tion for life, mutt fingularly im, ede the national initruion,
hy sep ‘Lhere are however feveral univerfities, fuch as that
of Frankfort on the Oder, founded by Joachim elector of Brandenburg
in the year 1516. Konigfberg in Pruffia was foundedin 1544. OF the
Polith univertities Cracow has fallen to Auftria, and was founded in 1 364;
and Wilna, founded in 1570, to Ruffia, Pofna or Pofen has become
jeét to Pruffia. :
" oe AND TOWNS. } peg the chief cities of Pruffia muft firft he
mentioned Berlin, fituated on t e banks of the river Sprey, and regu
larly fortified. It was founded in the twelfth century, by a coliny
from the Netherlands, and contains 142,000, inhabitants, Dolng about
four miles and a half long and three wide ; but within this inclofure are
many gardens, and fometimes even fields; the number of houfes is
go. Thecity is more remarkable for the elegance of the buildings
than for its wealth or induttry, many beautifu houfes being let w
flories to mechanics. Next to Berlin may be mentioned Konighery,
© Cox's Trav, into Pol, &e. i, 194, Reitbeck’s Trav. iii, 44,
of
.
fabitants ; b
which is fupy
with a citade
time of Char.
manufactures
flaughter enfi
10,000. In
flands alfo H,
deburg: the
Halberitedt,
contains abou
burg in the
prelent no c
contains only
the Oder of {
gerd, in F;
of which t
founded in
a confidera
Dantzick.
Breflaw,
molt beaut
was deftroy
jsat lealt ec
the linens of
that of Lut
Among 1
faw, the fo:
of ancient
acent rifing
the general
The popula
{uburb of P
fword of Su
Nantzick,
was known @
confidered as
and adorned
confidered a:
other produg
the decline.
A few othe
meration, in ¢
ve recent acc
i reeled
- on th
inuavitants §
Potfdam, ar
and no expe
was built in 3
Proffian mon
other cities, ¢
N procee
> Poles,
appear.
enerally
ar upon
omen, is i
1 fleeves,
ty which
; with a
weather,
drefs, as
vinter of
or bon. |
ted with
ng robe,
ny which
vhich are
ceived to
d any re.
Dantzick
; and Co.
his pred»,
atin tranf.
rentions to
lubka, the
unc, there
reat hada Ae
in French, SR
, kingdom,
the other
mentioned
&e. Bul
2ms to be
number of
of dettina.
uch. as that
andenburg
OF the
d in 1364;
. iii, 44,
as become
ult firft he
) and regue
a colony
being about
rclofure are
f houfes is
e buildings
vein let wn
onigherg,
Q.
PRUSSIA. 189
of which the population is computed at about 52.000, This city was
founded inthe thirteenth cehtury, and is well fortified.. It maintains.
aconfiderable trade by the river Pregel, which flows into the gulf of
rick.
Melee the capital of Silefia, has been long celebrated as one of the
not beautiful cities in Germany. It is of uncertain antiquity, but
yasdettroyed by the Tatars in the thirteenth century. The population
isat lealt equal to that of Konigiberg ; and it has feveral manutactures,
thelinens of Silefia being particularly celebrated. The’ ruling religion is
hatof Luther, és
Among the chief cities of Frutia mutt not now be forgotten. Ware
fw, the former capital of Poland; and Dantzick, an independent city
of ancient fame. Warfaw ftands partly in a plain, partly on a gentle.
afcent rifing from the Viftula, but the appearance is melancholy, from
the general poverty of Poland under its former unhappy government *.
The population was computed at 70,000, including the unfortunate
fuburb of Praga; but it muft have been much thinned by the deftruétive
fyord of Suwarrow. Yet Hoeck ftates it at 66,572.
Dantzick, now loft to Pruffia, contains about 36,000 inliabitants, and
yas known as a.commercial town even from the tenth century. It was
confidered as the chief city of the Hanfeatic league, and was enlarged
andadorned by the knights of the Teutonic order. It muft ftill be
confidered as the chief itaple for the exportation of the corn and the
other products of Poland: but its commerce has been for fome time on
ie decline. :
; A few other citics of the Pruffian dominions deferve geographical enue
meration, in a progrefs from the more ancient territories in the welt, to
verecent acquifitions in the eatt.
ye electorate of Brandenburg, and in the adjoining duchy of Maga
r, on the wett, may be named Brandenburg, a {mall city of 6000
juavitants 3 and Frankfort on the Oder which contains about 16,090.
Potfdam, arecent city, is fituated on an ifland, amidtt lakes and canals,
and no expence has been fpared in its decoration. The royal caftle
was built in 1663, and it has fince been a favourite refidence of feveral
Prufian monarchs. The inhabitants are computed at 26,000. The
other cities, or rather towns in Brandenburg, feldom contain 5000 ine
habitants; but the duchy of Magdeburg prefents the capital {fo called,
which is fuppofed to hold about 26,000 fouls, and is ftrongly fortified
with a chadit on anifle inthe Elbe. This city dates its origin from the
time of Charlemagne; and. can boaft of elegant ftreets ond flourithi
manufactures. The Imperialifts taking it by ftorm in 1631, a dreadful
faughter enfued, the inhabitants who perithed being computed at about
10,000 Inthe fame duchy, but disjoined by part of Upper Saxony,
lands alfo Halle on the Saale, more than fifty miles to the S. of Mag.
deburg: the inhabitants of Halle are computed at 21,000. Nor mu
Halberitadt, the capital of an adjoining principality, be omitted, as it
contains about 12,500 fouls; in which number it is rivalled by Quedline
burg in the fame province. The Weftphalian dominions of Pruffia
prelent no city of much account, and the remote town of Neufehatel
contains only about 6002 fouls.
On proceeding to Pomerania on the N. firft occurs Stettin, a city-on
the Oder of fome trade, and about 18,000 inhabitants. Thofe of Star»
gerd, in Farther Pomerania, are not eftimated at above Goce.
® Coxo’s Pol, i. 906.
Ta
@
too PRUSSIA.
In Pruffia, properly fo called, may be named Elbing, which js fin,
pofed to hold Fe obo fouls. The pe fecondary soiree rarely eal
3000 inhabitants, till acquifitions of adjacent territory gave to Pruffiz
Thorn, with a population of 10,000. Excepting Breflaw, the capital,
already mentioned, there are only three towns in 8ilefia, which contain
more than 6000 inhabitants; namely Glogau, Hirfchberg, and
Schweidnitz. Nor, if we exclude Warfaw and its fuburhs, do any of
the towns recently acquired in Poland even equal this population,
Epirices.] Some of the moft fplendid edifices of this country adorn
Berlin the capital, fuch as the palace and the theatre. But the other
grand buildings feem not to have impreffed travellers with veneration
being’ barracks for foldiers and the like *. And the city itfelf is almowt
entirely built with brick, though the fronts of the houfes are difguifed
with ftucco. The palace at Potfdam deferves fuperior applaufe ; and
on an eminence near the gity {tands the royal villa of Sans Souci, which
however can claim no grandeur of external architeéture, Konigherg
and Dantzick, alfo offer to view refpectable public buildings; but in ed
neral this kingdom yields even to Ruffia in this refpe&. Y
INLAND NAVIGATION. ]- The advantages of inland navigation feem little
known or cultivated in the Pruffian dominions ; and though feveral {mall
canals might be mentioned, yet ‘hey rather belong to the office of the
topographer than to a general fyftem of geography.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. ] If we except the linens of Silefia,
the manufaCtures of the Pruffian dominions are of {mall importance. Yet
they afford, for home confumption, glafs, iron, brafs, paper, and woollen
cloth ; and Frederick II. introduced a {mall manufacture of filk. Even
the exports of Dantzick confift almoft entirely of timber, corn, tallow,
and fimilar articles.
If we except the ancient ftaple of grain, fo abundant in the level plains
of Poland, the commerce of Pruffia is comparatively of but little confe.
uence. Amber is by nature conftituted a monopoly of the country, but
afhion has rendered this branch of commerce infignificant. Yet amon
the confiderable exports may be named excellent timber of all kinds, fkins,
leather, flax, and hemp ; nor mutt the linens of Silefia be-paffed in filence,
many of which are fent into Holland, and fold under the name of Dutch
manufacture. In return, Pruffia receives wine, and other products of more
fouthern and favoured countries.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country.— Soil and Agriculture. Rivers
—Lakes.— Mountains. —Forefts.— Botany. —Z oology.— Mineralogy.
Mineral Waters.—Natural Curiofities.
HE climate of the Pruffian dominions
is, upon the whole, cold and moitt,
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] i
Brandenburg and Pomerania may be regarded as more free from eg
than Pruffia Proper, which, as Bufching informs us +, has about eight
months of winter, the autumns being often deluged with rain. The nor-
thern part of Poland, which has fallen under the Pruffian fceptre, abounds
with forefts and marthes, which cannot be f{uppofed to render the air falu-
# Wraxall’s Mem. i. 101, + iil, 5,
briouss
yous, ‘I
futile pro’
hat duchy
are expofe
FACE 01
thele exten
Pruffia Pro
a character
phn Sil
gdopen tc
Carpathian
country fire
Oder and it
other parts
SolL AN
gen the {p
that of Pru
Gilefia refer
uctive,
Agricult
produces bu
Proper and
plant that c
of Silefia m
lity.
the peaf
mnton exta
witocracy,
rts of Sil
bred as da
they were
RIVERS,
mentioned t
duchy of M
Havel, a tri
may be rege
Moravia, an
the Baltic, a
fream, the
Warfaw, an
miles. The
masfhes in F
in part the
Laks. ]
in the ealter:
See, which,
every directs
fources of t
ind Memel,
fuse called
‘itula, Friff
ind that of
niles in leng|
the Baltic by
ich is fup.
Y exceeded
to Prufia |
the capital,
ich contain
berg, and
, do any of
ion.
ntry adorn
t the other
veneration,
If is almoft
e difguifed
alaufe ; and
uci, which
Konigherg,
; butin ge.
on feem little
feveral {mall
office of the
ns of Silefia,
rtance. Yet
and woollen
filk. Even
corn, tallow,
e level plains
little confe.
country, but
Yet among
1 kinds, fkins,
ed in filence,
me of Dutch
uéts of more
ure Rivers.
Mineralogy.
an dominions
and moitt.
om humidity,
hs about eight
in. The nor-
bptre, abounds
er the air falue
briouts
PRUSSIA. 102
yous, ‘The lower parts of Silefia are regarded as the moft healthy and °
fertile provinces of the monarchy ; but the fouthern and weftern ip of
ut duchy, bordering on elevated mountains, long covered with fnow,
r expofed even in fummer to fevere freezing gales.
face OF THE CoUNTRY.] In confidering the general appearance of
thefeextenfive regions, Brandenburg is a fandy and barren country, but
Puflia Proper formerly abounded in woods, and difplays fuperior fertility, _
,ctaracter which may be alfo extended to Pruffian Poland, an immenfe
hin, Silefia, on the contrary, difplays a pleafing diverfity, being level
gdopen towards Poland, but feparated from Hungary on the §. by the
Carpathian mountains, a branch of which proceeding N.W. divides this
quitry from Moravia and Bohemia. It is every where watered by the
(der and its tributary ftreams:; nor is there any deficiency of rivers in the
gher parts of the Pruffian fovereignty. !
SolL AND AGRICULTURE. ] The foil of Brandenburg is meagre, and
wen the {pace between Berlin and Potfdam refembles a wildernefs ; but
Gilefia refembles Brandenburg, yet this province is in general extremely
yctive, and abounds in fruits and culinary vegetables.
Agricultural improvements are little known, and Brandenburg chiefly
uces buck wheat and turnips, with fcanty crops of rye ; but Prufha
Proper and the Polifh provinces difplay every kind of grain and efculent
lant that can flourifh under fuch a latitude ; and among the produétions
of Silefia muft be claffed maize, and even vines, but the wine is of inferior
lity.
Othe peafants, though oppreffed by heavy taxation, heing free from the
ranton extortions, and capricious perfonal fervices, exacted by the Polifh
sitocracy, difplay figns of comparative eafe and profperity. In different
ts of Silefia the land is let in farms, as in England, and the peafants
ired as day labourers ; while under the deteftable government of Poland
they were mere flaves, and every avenue to induftry was barred.
Rivers. ] Among the chief rivers of the Pruffian dominions may be firft
nentioned the Elbe, which rifes in the S. of Bohemia, and pervades the
duchy of Magdeburgh. The Spree, which pafles by Berlin, falls into the
my be regarded as a river entirely Pruflian: it rifes in the mountains of
the Baltic, after a courfe of about 350 miles. Next appears another noble
ream, the Viftula, which, rifing in the C.rpathian mountains, paffes
Warfaw, and joins the fea near Dantzick, after a circuit of about 450
niles. The Pregel, pafling by Konigfberg, {prings from fome lakes and
mashes in Pruffian Poland ; and the Menel, a fuperior river, now forms
in part the Pruffian boundary on the eatt.
Lakes.) ‘The lakes in the Pruffian dominions are numerous, efpecially
inthe ealtern part, where among: others may be mentioned the Spelding
See, which, with its creeks, extends more than twenty Britifh miles in
wery direction. That region contains many other lakes, which fupply the
furces of the river Pregel. At their eftuaries the rivers Oder, Viktula,
ind Memel, prefent fingular inland fheets of water, in*the German lan-
fuse called Haff ; that of the Oder being ftyled Grafs Haff; that of the
‘itula, Frifch Haff (with another inland creek called the lake of Draufen) ;
ind that of the Memel, Curifch Haff. The Frifch Haffis about feventy
niles in length, and from three to ten miles broad, being feparated from
the Baltic by a long flip of land, faid'to have been thrown up by the tem.
petts
ut of Pruffian Poland is loamy and fertile. sThe northern extremity of :
Havel, a tributary of the Elbe. The Oder, the Viadrus of the ancients,’
Moravia, and, after watering Silefia, Brandenburg, and Pomersnia, joins .
w
-
194 ‘PRUSSIA;
efts and waves about the year rrge; This lake, or bay, js
epth, and will not admit vefels of aes burthen *, oT of {mall
The Curifch Haff, fo called from its fituation in the ancient duch of
Courland, is about 60 Britith miles in length, and about 30: in its te
breadth. A fimilar ridge of land divides it from the Baltic 5 and itis full|
of dangerous fhelves, and. infefted by frequent ftorms.
Mounrarxs.] Magdeburg, Brandenburg, Pomerania, Pruffia, and Po.}
and, are in general level countries; and the only mountains in the Prffian,
dominions ar¢ thofe of Silefia, The mountains in the S. and W. of thigl
province may be regarded as a northern branch of the Carpathian chain,
which itfelf fotms the moit fouthern boundary. This branch extends
from Jablumka S.E. to Friedberg in Upper Lufatia, N.W. near 209
Britifh miles in length, and-is called Sudetifche Gebirge, or the Sudetic
mountains. In the north-welftern parts of Silefia are allo detached moun.|
tains of confiderable height +, as the Spitzberg and Gratzberg. Their
precife height feems not to be afcertained, yes they may lately be cons
eluded to yield greatly to the Carpathian chain, an account of which will j
be found in the Televintion of the Auftrian dominions.
Forests. ] Few parts of the Pruffian kingd
ary, Silefia prefents a continuation
of thick forefts, which confpire with the elevated mountains to form an
impenetrable barrier.
Botany.] The indigenous vegetables of the Pruffian daminions have
hitherto been vjewed in only a very curfory manner. Among thefe there
oman
travellers. with
Mrveratocy.] The mineralogy of the Prufian dominions will not
ufford an extenfive theme. Sand and plains rarely contain minerals, and
even the mountains of Silefia boaft of few hidden treafures. Yet in the
fouthern diftriéts of that province there were formerly mines of gold and
filver, but the produce did not defray theexpence. Mines of copper and
lead, however, {till exilt, and there are confiderable founderics-of iron.
Agates, jafpers, and rock cry ftal, are alfo found in the Silefian mountains.
Coal, a more ufeful mineral, occurs in various parts of Silefia, and the level
diftri&s fometimes offer good peat moors.
But the moft diftinguithed and peculiar mineral: production of Pruffiais
amber, which is chiefly found on the Samland fhore of:the Baltic, near
Pillau, on'a neck of land formed by the Frifch Haff, which feems to have
been the chief feat of this mineral from the earlieft ages. It is found at the
depth of about 100 feet, repofing on wood coal, in lumps of various {izes
* Bufching, iii, 10, + Ib, vi. 214,
) forme
8, oF large
* Proper,
e forett of
ns will not
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Yet in the
nf gold and
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hies-of iron.
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Palos
PRUSSIA. 193
fome five pounds in weight, and is often wathed on fhore by tempefts, It
adds about soool. yearly to the royal revenue.
MINERAL WATERS. ] Silefia prefents one {pring of hot water at Warm-
brun, near Hirfchberg, which is believed to be the only mineral water
worth notice in the Pruffian dominions. ‘4
NATURAL CuRIOsITiIES.] The Sudetic chain of mountains has been
little explored, and the level parts of the Pruffian dominions can, of . ourfe,
afford few objects of natural curiofity, if we except the mines of amber
above mentioned.
SPAIN.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. - Extent. — Boundaries—Original Population —Progreffive Geogras
phy. —Hiflorigal Epochs.— Modern Divifions,—and Antiquities.
HOUGH Spain appear to have been known to the
Names. ] T Pheenicians, vetlio footed from it large quantities of
filver near 1000 years before the birth of Chrift, and their Tarfith to have
been the little ifle of Tarteffus near Gades, yet it feems hardly to have
been difclofed to the Greeks in the time of Herodotus. When the Greeks
eftablithed a colony at Marfeilles, they muft, not long after, have difco«
vered the northern part of this fertile region ; which, from the noble river
Therus, or Ebro, they called Iberia; and, from its extreme fituation in
the weft, it was alfc ftyled Hefperia. The Romans, probably from a
native term, have fixed and handed down //i/panias which has been varioufly
adapted to the idiom of modern languages.
Extent. ] Spain lies between the 36th and 44th degrees of north
latitude ; and its weftern extremity is aboyt 9°. in longitude W. from
London. The greateft length W. to E. is about 600 miles; the breadth
N.to S. more than s00; thus forming almoft a compact {quare (if we.
include Portugal in this general view of the country), and furrounded on
all fides by the fea, except where the Pyrenean chain forms a grand natural
barrier againft France *. But as the prefent eftimate muft exclude
Portugal, which is referved for another article, it may be obferved, that
the boundaries betwixt thefe two kingdoms depend on artificial con-
ventions, and not off rivers or mountains, or other remarkable features of
feparation. Spain is fuppofed to e¢ontain about 148,000 fquare miles ;
which, eftimating the population at 11,000,000, yieid 74 perfons to the
mile fquare.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] ‘The original populationsof Spain feems to
have confifted of Celts from Gaul, and of Moors, Mauritani, from A frica;
but the latter, a more warlike race, expelled the former, and even paffed
into Aquitain in France. After the German ‘Gauls had colonized the
* The river Bidafoa forms the W. boundary, and near its mouth is the iflc of Pheafants.
Irum, near the Bidaioe, is the lait town in Sa Dillon, 165. foul
out.
194 SPAIN.
fouth of modern France, where they were the Galli Braccati of antiquit tL
ete ‘ F ; . y) of Le
they began to make expeditions into Spain, and feized the region to the «| jouth
N.E., besoming the Celtiberi of claffical geography. Hence tlie name; to wh:
of rivers and mountains in Spain rarely difplay a Celtic origin, being often Moors
African, and unlike thofe to be found in other parts of Europe, though the thi
recorded many centuries before the arrival of the Mahometans ; and often 7m"
Gothic, though mentioned before the Gothic invafion in the fifth centur r,! ‘te
It is probable that the African fettlers were not a little affilted in the ex. {ceptre
pulfion of the primeval Celts by the Phoenicians, and afterwards by the chalif
Carthaginians, whence the latter maintained fuch fway in diftant parts of power
this country. But the records of Punic hiitory being loft, we mutt be is *,
contented to begin with the African colony ; which was fucceeded, pro. fate ex
bably about 150 years before the Chriftian era, by the incurfions and royal fi
fettlement of the Celtiberi, and other Gaulic colonies, who were only thelefe
ityled Celts, as having paffed from Celtic Gaul. ‘Towards the eaft mut 8. 'T
be added large colonies of Carthaginians, and afterwards of Romans; for and the
this country,, which rivalled Italy in foil and climate, invited an unufual waenes
number of the latter, and produced many claffical authors. From its sanded
natural fituation, Spain has derived a greater mixture of inhabitants than {ub-div
perhaps any other Europeancountry. Inthe fifth century it was con. 9.
quered by the Vandals; but, being afterwards weakened by their fettle. gitah ;
ments in Africa, they were fubdued by the Vifigoths, who founded the the arts
modern-kingdom of Spain, and from whom the more ancient families {till 10. |
pretend to derive their origin. The Mahometan Moors havihg-been cx- ith royz
pelled, they mutt not be confidered in the eftimate, though a few families Arrage
may. be of Arabian extract: andthe modern Spaniards may be confidered ith
as defcended from the African Iberians, the Celtiberians, or German the hati
Gauls, the Romans, and the Vifigoths. ‘ edhons
PRoGREssIVE GEOGRAPHY.] ‘lhe progreflive geography of Spain is
alfo very various. Little is known till the Roman conquett, when Spain
was divided into three provinces, ‘T’arraconenlis, or the N.E. half of
Spain; Beetica, or Beticain the S. ; and Lulitania on tlie wett, extending
from the river Duro in modern Portugal on the north, to the prefent
boundary of that kingdom on the fouth. After the fubjetion by the
Viligoths thefe divifions feem to ‘have pafled into oblivion ; but the con.
Gouk by the Moors eftablifthed a new’and important diftinétion in Spanih
geography, that of Chriitian and Maliometan Spain ; .and which is in
fome meafure blended with the topic next to be coniidered.
Hisronricaz Evocus.] The chief hiltorical epochs of Spain are ;
1. The original population by the Africans and German Gauls.
2. ‘Lhe Carthaginian acquifitions in Spain.
3. ‘he conqueit by the Romans, who maintained poffeffion for more
than five centuries.
4. The fubjection of Spain to the Vandals, about the year 415.
5. The conquefl of Spain by the Vifigoths under Euric, excepting
Galicia, held by the Suevi, who had entered with the Vandals. The
Galicians have to this day a diftiné& character of fuperior induftry. In
Euric, A. D. 472. commences the modern kingdom, and hiftory of
Spain. * '
%. The conqueft by the Arabs, or Moors, which began A.-D. 709;
and foon extended over all Spain, except the mountains of Atturias,
where king Pelagius maintained a confined dominion over that diltriét
and Bifcay. Eis defcendants fixed their royal refidence at Oviedo, built
in 761, and not only defended their {mall territory, which was naturally
fortified with chains of mountains, but foon regained Galicia, and Pt
‘ ' 0
Ferdina
power ¢
12.
13.
has fin
Spaniar}
14.
Now I
no epoc
Divi
lowing
On the
On the
On the
On the
of
* Hitt
Paris, 27
| of antiquity,
region to the °'
nce the rrames
in, being often
Irope, though
ns 3 and often
fifth century,
ted in thie ex.
rwards by the
iftant ‘parts of
it, we mutt be
ucceeded, pro.
incurfions and
who were only
s the eaft mut
Romans ; for
ited an unufual
ors. From its
nhabitants than
ry it was con.
by their fettle.
10 founded the
ent families (ill
avin been ex:
ha few families
y be confidered
nsy or German
phy of Spain is
eft, when Spain
N.E. half of
wett, extending
to the prefent
bjection by the
; but the con.
tion in Spanifh
nd which is in
Spain are;
san Gauls,
effion for more
year 415.
uric, excepting
Vandals. The
br induttry. In
and hittory of
gan A. -D. 709)
ins of Atturias,
er that diftné
at Oviedo, built
ich was naturally
alicia, and mr
0
SPAIN. 195
of Leon and Caftille. In g14, as the territory extended towards the
jguth, the kings began to refide at Leon, and thence derived their title ;
to which, in the eleventh century, was added that of Caftille.. But the
Moors muft be regarded as the chief poffeffors of Spain till the middle of
the thirteenth century,
. The Moorith fettlements in Spain were conducted by governors ap-
pointed by the chalifs, till A.D. 756. when Abdoulrahman {eized the -
{ceptre of Spain, and became the Moorifh king of Cordova, and firft
chalif in the weit. His fucéeffors continued to difplay great wealth and
wer ; and under their {way the commerce of Spain became very extene..
jve*. This dynafty continued till A. D. 1038, when the Spanith chali-
fate expired, and the Moorifh governors of feveral provinces ufurped the
royal ftyle, in Cordova, Seville, Valentia,.and Granada; who never-
thelefs rivalled the {mall Chriftian kingdoms of Spain. 2. BA
8. The kingdoms of Caitille and Leon fometimes fell to diltin& heirs 5
_ and the hiftorical confufion is increafed by the {mall kingdom of Na-
vate, the capital of which was’ Pampalona, a. royalty which come
menced A.D. 8573 by that of Arragon, A. D. 1035.3; and other
{ub-divifions.
g. The reign of Alphonfo the Wife, which began A. D. 1252, and
which rivalled thofe of the Spanifh chalifs in the proteétion afforded to
the arts and {ciences,
10. The conqueft of the kingdom of Granada, the laft of the Moor-
ih royalties ; and the junétion of the important crowns of Caftille and
Arragon, in the perfons of Ferdinand and Lfabella.
11. The reign of Charles V., fon of Philip of Auftria, who r:ried
the heirefs of Arragon and -Caftille, and eftablifhed the Spanifh mo:archy
on its prefent bafis. ‘The wealth of America, difcovered in the reign of
Ferdinand and Ifabella, now began to impart exuberar. fupplies, and the |
power of Spain arrived at its zenith.
12, Acquifition of Portugal by Philip II. A. D.,\1580.
13. The revolt of Portugal, under Philip IV., A. D. 16403 which
has lince exilted as a feparate kingdom, after having been fubject to the
Spaniards for fixty years.
14. The termination of the Auftrian dynafty by the death of Charles II.
Nov. 1, 1700; and the acceffion of the Houle of Bourbon; fince which
no epoch of fingular confequence has arifen.
Divisions.] The moft recent {ubdivifions of Spait are imto the fol-
lowing provinces : ’
I. Galicia.
2. A(fturias, including Oviedo.and San-
On the Bay of Bifcay — tilleas.
3- Bifcay, mcluding Bifcay, Guipufcoa
{ and Alava.
pre ea 4 Navarre. :
n the French frontier — . Avragen. 3
Gis } a. Catalonia.
7. Valencia.
On the Mediterranean coaft 8. Murcia.
9. Granada. :
On the entrance to the Straits {:10. Andalufia, including Seville, Cor.
* Hitt. de l'Afrq. et.de VEfp. fous la Domination des Ayabes, par M1. Cardonne.
Puis, 1765, 3 volm 12m0,
On
O32
np RARE Po eT RSG ts Aaah etP
SPAIN.
Ut. enka s :
12. Leon, including Leon .
Zamora, ind Slitinte,
13. OldCattille, including Burgos, Avila
and Segovia. ‘
14. New Cattille, including Toledo or
Algarvia, Cuenca or La Sierra
and La Mancha. ,
Antiquitizs.] Of the firft epochs it can hardly be fuppofed that
any remains fhould exift, except a few tumuli, and other rude mony.
On the frontiers of Portugal
Midland
ments. Nor are there any certain relics of the Carthaginians in Spain,’ q
except coins, which have been found in confiderable numbers,
The Roman antiquities are, on the contrary, fo numerous, that to enter
into details on the fubje& would be prolix, and foreign to the nature of
this work. ‘The aquedué& at Segovia is one of the noble of the Roman
edifices *. Morviedo, the ancient Saguntum, prefents many curious re.
ins of antiquity. ‘Tarragona, the ancient Tarraco, alfo contains {e.
Veral interefting monuments.
The Vifigothic kings have left few relics, except their coins, which are
ftruck in gold; a metal then unknown to the other Europcan mints, and
feemingly native. ‘The churches, &c. of that period were probably de.
ftroyed by the Moorifh conquett.
Numerous and fplendid are the monuments of the Moors in Spain,
The mofque at Cordova was begun by Abdoulrahman, the firft chaliff,
The fecond chalif of that name reared the walls of Seville. But thefe
rinces were far exceeded in magnificence by Abdoulrahman III., who
Puile a town three miles from Cordova, which he called Zehra, after the
name of one of his female favourites ; and ordered a palace to be con.
ftru&ed by the moft fkilful architeéts of Conftantinople, then the chief
abode of the arts and fciences (A.D. 950)+. In this palace were
reckoned 1014 columns of African and Spanifh marbles: while Italy had
fupplied 19, and the Greek emperor had tranfmitted a of furprifing
beauty. The hall was decorated with marble and mafly gold; and ix
the midft of the ceiling was hung the famous pearl which the emperor
Leo had fent to the chalif. The palace of Zehra appears to have been
annihilated in the barbarous and fanatic wars of the middle ages: and
Granada, the laft Moorifh kingdom, having heen fubdued after the
arts and {ciences began to revive, it is natural there to expec the bef
preferved remains of Morefque antiquity. Nor will their Alhambra
difappoint this expectation, as the reader may judge from Mr. Town.
fend's defcription :
* You enter firft into an oblong court of 150 feet by 90, with a bafor
of water in the midft, of 100 feet in length, encompafled by a flower bor-
der. Ateach end is a colonade. Fromhence you ty into the court
of the lions, fo called hecaufe the fountain in the middle is ye 7 abe by
thirteen lions. It is adorned with a colonade of 140 marble pillars.
The royal bedchamber has two alcoves, adorned with columns, and a
fountain between them, in the middle of the room, Adjoining to this
are two hot baths. The great hall is about 40 feet fquare, and 60
height, with eight windows and two doors, all in deep recefles. Between
this and the o court is a gallery of go feet by 16. All thefe lower
apartments have fountains, and are paved either with tiles or marble,
© Tywalead, vol, il. p. 11. ¢ Cardone, ubi fepra,
in chequers.
or dro -fton
of the frieze:
tions, whiclz
defigned.””
edifice was fi
The Chri
churches, caf
Religion. —£.
Colonies. —.
lations.
RELIGION. ]
pitch of fanat:
territory. Th
with exorbita’
though the ev
fanatic reign
EccLESIAS'
the governme:
Parochia
Affittant
Sacriftan
Acolitos
Ordinadc
Ordinadc
Benefigia
Monks
Nuns
Beatas
Syndics,
Inquifito
The ope
fee ig that of
The Mozarabi
after the conve’
be ufed in Spa
was introduce;
Governueg
fpotic, the ftat
SPAIN. | 497
i chequers. ‘The idea of the seilage is evidently taken from flaladites,
é ad see found in the roofs of natural caverns. ‘The ornaments
alencta, of the friezes are arabefque, and perfectly accord with the Arabic infcrip-
| tions, Whiclr are here fuited to the purpofe for which each apartment was
Avila, defigned.”” Above is a fuit of elegant apartments for the winter. This
edifice was finithed A.D. 1336.
ledo or The Chriftian antiquities of the middle ages confift of numerous
Sierra, churches, caftles, and monatteries, as ufual in other European couhtries.
ed that 7m
> monue CHAPTER II.
| Spain,’ @
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
to enter Q } , G L Pobul
ature of digion. —Ecclefiaftical Geography.—Government.—Laws.— Population. —
Roma @ on ily a a J pal Importance and Re-
rious re- lations.
atains fe.
8 dee religion of Spain is the Roman Catholic, which
vhich are RELIGION. ] in this country and Portugal has been carried to a
ints, and
pitch of fanaticifm unknown to the Italian ftates, or even to the papal
ably dee HMM territory. The inquifition has, in thefe unhappy kingdoms, been invelted
am with exorbitant power, and has produced the moft ruinous effeéts, and
in Spain, though the evil has been recently fubdued in a confiderable degree, one
f chaliff, fanatic reign would fuffice to revive it.
But thefe EccLESIASTICAL GEOGRAPHY.] According to the returns made te
II., who the government the Spanifh clergy ftand as follows :
after the Parochial clergy, called curas = = — 16,689
be con- Affittants, called tenientes curas —_ ~ 59771
the chief Sacriftans or Sextons ~ —_ _ 10,873
ace were Acolitos, to affift at the altar — —_ 59503
el in ee vee having a patrimony ofthree? | 31244
1; andin @ Ordinados de menores, with inferior ecclefiaftical
emperor orders ~ 10,744
ave been Benefigiados, or canons of cathedrals, and other] .. « -
ges: and ~ beneficiaries — _ 3999
after the Monks — = 61,617
the bett Nuns —_ ome — 329500
Alhambra Beatas - _ — 1,130
r. Town Syndics, to colleét for the mendicants — 40127
Inquifitors —_ — _ 2,705
a bafon ieiatiinmiteriis
ower bor-
118,625
the court Prd WE Sa oho
ported by The archbifhoprics are eight : bifhoprics forty-fix.. The moft opulent
te pillars, fee ip that of Toledo, which is fuppofed to yield annually about go,co0i*.
ns, and a The Mozarabic miffal, conmund y St. Ifidore for the Gothic church,
gS i after the converfion from Arianifm to the Catholic faith, continued to
0
be ufed in Spain till the Moors were fubdued, when the Roman form
Between Bl was introduced,
hefe lower Government. ] .The government of Spain ig well known to be de.
or marble, fpotic, the ftates or cortes having hardly been affembled fince the time of
* Tuwnfend, 311,
0 3 ——¢ Charles
SPAIN.
Charles V. But the defpotifm of the monarchy is here balanced by the
power of the church, to which the nobles are fubmiffive devotees. It js alfo
198
tempered by many councils, who are refponfible for any unwife or un. 4
fuccefsful meafures. The chief councils in Spain are: 1. That of dif.
Span called alfo the ie or cabinet council, being compofed of the
ing and his minifters of ftate. 2. The council of ftate, in which the
king ‘prefides, and of which the archbifhop of Toledo is always a member
3. The royal council of finances, called the Hazienda. 4, The fupreme
council of war. 5. The fupreme council of Caftille. 6. The fupreme
council of Arragon. 7. The fupreme council of the inquifition. 8, The
royal council of the orders of knighthood. 9. The royal council of the
Indies. 10. That of the Crufada, compofed of a commiffury general, |
member of the council of Caftille, and another of that of Arra on,
who arrange the fubfidies to be granted by the clergy, under the pre. |
text of war againft the infidels. The grandees of the Ehrasioen, who were
formerly ftyled the rich men, have feveral peringe among which an §
important one in their eyes is that of wearing their hats in the royal
prefence, which is however never done except at the’ nod of the {o.
vereign. Mee .
Laws.]__ The laws of Spain are contained in feveral ancient codes;
and recourfe is alfo had to the civil and canon law. The E/crivanos are
numerous, and inftead of explaining the codes, often impede the admini.
ftration of juftice. Miftaken mercy frequently retains criminals in long
durance, fo that when they are executed their offence is forgotten, and
the example of punifhment become inefficacious.
Poeutation.] The population of this kingdom is computed at
11,000,000 or 74 to a fquare mile; while France Sas 174, and Eng.
fand 169: nay the kingdom of Naples is computed at 201. This irik
ing defeét of population has defervedly excited attention ; and among
ather reafons may be numbered the expulfion of the Jews after the con.
ueft of Granada; that of the Moors by Philip III.; the contagious
+ aa frequent in the fouthern provinces ; the inceffant intefline wars,
for feven centuries carried on again{t the Moors; the emigrations to
‘America, and the vaft numbers of unmarried clergy and monks,
In the year 1787, the population of Spain was' thus arranged *;
ales unmarried — — 2,926,229
Females ditto _— — — 25753,224
Married men _ — — 159475165
Married women — — — 13943496
Widows -_ -—- — = — 462,258
10,268,150
Exclufive of the clergy, who are above enumerated, the numbers of
each rank were thus calculated + ;
Men fervants—Criados _ — 280,092
Day labourers—Jomaleros _ — 964571
Peafants—Labradores _ — 917197
Artifans —-— -— —_ Songho
Manufacturers — —_ — 399750
Merchants - -- — 343
Knighte—Hidalgos ~- _ — a3
“ Of thefe laft, four hundred and one thoufand and forty arene the
provinces of the Afturias, Bifcay, Burgos, Galicia, and Leon.”
® Townfend, vol. ii, 91. + Ibid, 214.
Coxonizs.}
of religion,
CoLontEs. |
alled by wri
{oon became ni
and various if
can in this ref}
in religious a
thus withdraw
caufes of depo
Army.] ‘
- the braveft cor
neither diftin
being. fo mud
In peace it 1s ¢
be {welled to
venue. Of la
has however |
hips of the li
| REVENUES.
at five millions
fillings to gx
yernment, eacl
fisty thillings,
the national de
that the coloni
the expences ©
POLITICAL
ance and rela
regions of the
rice, this fert
policy. Setti
any invafion,
the infuperab
her powerful
preme afcenda
other hand th
war with Eng
ower, Cnjoyi
fal weal 8
the me hinge
with the roy;
deference to h
Manners and
Cities and 7
tures and C.
MANNERS A
cuftoms and
by the
[tis alfo
Or Un.
t of dif.
d of the
hich the
member,
fupreme
fupreme
8. The
il of the
eneral, a
Arragon, |
the pre.
vho were
which an
he royal
F the fo-
t codes;
VANOS are
e admini.
Is in long
tten, and
puted at
and Eng.
“his tik
id among
r the con.
ontagious
‘ine wars,
rations to
5.
i*;
1229
9224
165
394.90
By2 58
Bt 50
umbers of
0,092
$95 A
751
089
975°
413
O55
arevin the
on.”
SOLONIES:)
SPAIN. "499
Corowres.]° After the immortal difcoveries of Chtiftoval Colon,
alled by writers in Latin Chriftopher Columbus, the Spanifh colonies
fon became numerous and extenfive, in the Weft Indies, South America,
ind various ifles in the Pacific Ocean. No nation, except the Englifh,
an in this refpect rival Spain. But the fuperior advantages of England,
in religious and politicalyfreedom, have foon replaced the population
thus withdrawn, ‘while to Spain the wound has been incurable, as the
caufes of deporu‘:tion have always increafed.
Army.) The Spanith armies, inftead of carrying terror even inta
| the braveft countries of Europe, as they did two centuries ago, are now
neither diftinguifhed by number, nor by dilcipline ; the royal treafury
being fo much impoverifhed, that a large force cannot be maintained.
In peace it is computed at about 60,000: but in war the number might
he {welled to a great amount, by a popular monarch and an ample re-
venue. Of late Spain has paid confiderable attention to her navy, which
has however been. crippled.in the recent warfare with England, The
hips of the line can fearcely now be computed at lefs than fifty.
Revenurs.] The revenue of Spain may be calculated, as is believed,
| at five millions and a half fterling money; fo that each perfon pays ten
fillings to government for proteétion, In France, under the old Bo
yernment, each perfon paid near twenty fhillings: in England at prefent
fsty fhillings. ‘The expenditure now equals or exceeds the income; but
the national debt is a mere trifle. ‘The belt judges of the fubject infer
that the colonies yield no dire revenue to Spain, it being confumed in
the expences of in¢ government of thofe diftant regions,
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RULATIONS.] The political import-
ance and relations of Spain were formerly deeply impreffed on mott
regions of the slobe. But, exhauited by idle wars of ambition or ava-
rice, this fertile kingdom has become almoft a cypher in European
policy. Setting’ alide Portugal, the pofition of Spain fecures her fen
any invafion, except on the fide of France; and it becomes therefore
the infuperable intereft of this exhaufted ftate to cultivate amity with
her powerful neighbour, which muft maintain .an unavoidable and fu-
preme afcendant, from geographic pofition and relative force. ' On the
other hand the diftance and importance of the Spanith colonies render a
war with England the greatelt calamity that can befal them, as that.
power, enjoying the unlimited dominion of the ocean, can infli& dread-
ful wounds on the commerce and colonies of Spain. Such feem,to be
the fol hinges of Spanifh polity, though ancient fame, and connexions
with the royal families of more potent ftates, fecure fome degree of
deference to her councils and mediations,
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms. ~ Language. —L iterature.—Education.—- Univerfities.
Cities and Towns.—Edifices — Roads. Inland Navigation, — Manufac-
tures and Commerce.
: IN (peaking of the religion of Spain, one
Maunaas ann customs] ] of "the mot ftriking of the national
cuftoms and manners is the common practice of adultery under the mafk
of religion, ‘This difgrace, “— is confined to the catholi fyftem, :
4. ai
SPAIN.
faid to have been tranfplanted from Italy, But the Italian gif:
more eommonly gentlemen; while in Spain they are monks sik i
fiaftics ; and the vice becomes more flagrant, as it is pradtifed } A i
very men who ought to exhibit examples of pure morality, diss
Exclufive of this vice, the Spanifh character is highly refpectable f,
integrity and a long train of virtues. Confcious of an upright and noble |
inicd, the refpect which a Spaniard would pay to thofe qualities M4
others, is often centred in himfelf, as he is intimately fenfible that he
poffefies them. This felf-refpeé is neatly allied to prides but it ity”
pride of virtue, which certainly ought not to humble itfelf before vice
and folly. ‘Temperance is a virtue which the Spaniard fhares in common
with other fouthern nations. In thefe countries the body is fo much
exhaulfted by the influence of heat, that the fiefta, or fhort fleep in the
middle of the day, becomes a neceffary refource of nature, and is }
habit continued even in the winter, y
The chief defeét in the character of the Spanith nobility and gentr
is, their averfion to agriculture and commerce. _Inftead of thofe Wenutt
ful villas, and opulent farms, which enrich the whole extent of England
the Spanifh architecture is almoft confined to the capital, and a few
other cities and towns $ and till farm-houfes are {cattered over the king.
dom, it will be abfolutely impoffible for agriculture to flourith in Spain
To import German colonies, as has been done in the Sierra Morena, ig
to begin at the wrong end, and to fuppofe that the poor can fet an ex.
amply to the rich. An intimate connexion and intermixture of all ranks
of men, and their mutual refpect for each other, form a liberal fource of
the wealth and power of the Britifh dominions ; but Spain, perhaps,
defpifes the example of heretics.
Since the acceffion of the houfe of Bourbon, a flight thade of French
manners has heen blended with the Spanith gravity. But fathions have
here little {way ; and the prohibition of flouched hats and long cloaks
“led to a ferious infurrection. The houfes of the great are large and
capacious; but the cottages and inns are, on the contrary, milerable,
The drefs and manners of the lower claffes vary much in diferens pro.
vinces, and for a living picture of them, the reader may confult the
immortal work of Cervantes.
The amufements of people of rank chiefly confift in dancing and
cards; but the combats pith bulls in the amphitheatres have juttly been
regarded as the moft ftriking feature of Spanifh and Portuguele manners,
That fuch fpeétacles tend to familiarife the people with bloodthed, feems
an idle theory, unwarranted by faéts. Modern Italy has no gladiators,
but numerous affaffins: ancient Rome had fcarcely one aflaffin, but
whole armies of gladiators,
The chief actors in the bull-feafts are the picadors, who are mounted
on horfeback and armed with lance’, and the chulos on foot, who relieve
and fuftain the former; but the chief perfonage is the matador, who
enters amid the profound filence of the whole affembly, and coolly dif.
atches the furious animal by a blow where the {pinal marrow joins the
Fead. The death is bloodlefs and inftantaneous, and deferves imitation,
as humanity would with to fave pain to the animals flaughtered for food,
Sometimes the bull is pierced in various parts with lances, ta which
{quibs are faftened, which being fet on fire, the maddened animal ftands
wing the ground, while he draws in and exhales volumes of fmoke:
‘ometimes an American is introduced, who, after the manner of huntin
the wild bull in his own country, throws a rope round the horns, an
entangles the quadruped as in a net, then kills him with perfect fafety.
3 Lanovace:)
from an accura
Lanau.
em dia'edi
become di
derived fra
held domin
exquilite m
the Ortenta
LITERA’
little knows
power.
Among 1
of Sevilie, 1
of that epoc
when they
Spanifh aut
that Arabia
duced many
Aben Roe,
authors alfo
In the el
began to inc
This was tl
whofe iiluftri
rty longs, ;
After the th
the crowd o
who wrote th
phy, rational
pied the fam
Since the
tioned, in wl
philofophy, t
It would be
Quevedo, Lol
to all Europe,
UNIVERSI
computed at
Salamanca, fi
and afterward
at former peri
of Arittotle ir
theology, con
apire to as m
number of fty
teachers are re
amore liner al
Cities ann
the chief cities
Cities -—- Ciug
Borough to
Villages—
Hamlets—.
SPAIN. 201
tavovacr.] The Spanifh language is one of the three great fouth-
em dia'eéts which fpring from the Roman; but many of the words
hecome difficult to the French or Italian ftudent, becaufe they are
derived from the Arabic, ufed by the Moors, who for feven centuries
ticifbei are
ind eccle.
1 by thofe
table for ied dominion in this country. The fpeech is grave, fonorous, and of
and noble exquilite melody, containing much of the flow and formal manner of
ualities in the Orientals, who feem fenfible that the power of {peech is a privilege.
le that ts LiteRATURE. ; The literature of Spain is highly refpetable, thouzh .
ut it is the jittle known to the other countries of Europe fince the decline of Spanith
efore vice wer. . hale
j Among the fathers of literature in this country muft be named Ifidore
in common Rar te :
s fo much of Sevilie, many of whofe works are extant, and inferior in merit to few
leep in the of that epoch ; fucceffive writers may be traced to the eleventh century,
, and is by when they became numerous: but before briefly mentioning fome
Spanith authors pofterior to that period, it will be proper to recolleét,
and gentry that Arabian learning flourifhed under the chalifs of Cordova, and pro-
ofe beauti. duced many iluitrious names well known to the Oriental fcholar, as
f England, Aben Roe, or Averroes, Aben -Zoar, Rhazes, &c. Many Jewith
and a few uthors alfo flourithed in this country.
r the king. In the eleventh century, as already mentioned, the Spanifh authors
h in Spain, began to increafe in number, and the native language begins to appear.
Morena, it This was the epoch of the famous Cid or ford, Roderic de Bivar,
. fet an ex. shofe illuftrious actions againft the Moors were celebrated in contempo-
of all ranks rty fongs, and bya long poem, written in the fucceeding century.
After the thirteenth century, it would. be idle to attempt to enumerate
the crowd of Spanifh authors, among which are Alphonfo the Wife,
who wrote the Libro del Teforo, a treatife on the three parts of philofo-
ul fource of
ny perhaps,
: of French phy, rational, phyfical, and moral ; and at whofe command were come
fhions have pied the famous Alphonfine tables of aftronomy.
ong cloaks Since the year 1500, fcarcely can a department of literature be men-
large and tioned, in which the Spaniards have not excelled ; if we except natural
milerable, plilofophy, the progrefs of which has been checked by the inquifition.
Hterent pros
It would be unneceffary to repeat the well known names of Cervantes,
confult the
Quevedo, Lopez de Vega, or other authors, whofe works are known
to all Europe.
UniversitiEs.] The univerfities, or rather academies, in Spain, are
computed at upwards of twenty: of which the moft noted is that of
Salamanca, founded in the year 1200 by Alphonfo IX. king of Leon,
and afterwards regulated by Alphonfo the Wife. ‘The ftudents have,
it former periods, been computed at 16,000; and, even now the reign
of Arittotle in logic and natural philofophy, and of Thomas Aquinas in
theology, continues unviolated, fo that a itudent of the year 1800 may
pire to as much ignorance as one of the year 1300. In 1785 the
number of ftudents was computed at tg909*. The fame antiquated
teachers are received with implicit faith in the other univerfities, ra that
amore lineral education at {chool mutt be here obliterated,
Cities AND TOWNS.) As a proper introduction to a brief account of
the chief cities and towns of Spain, the following eftimate is fubjoined
ancing and
july been
e manners,
fhed, feems
ladiators,
{fin, but
re mounted
who relieve
tador, who
coolly dif.
w joins the
8 imitation,
d for food, from an accurate author +.
» ta which Cities -- Ciudades . e ° ° @ 145
imal ftands HH} Borough towns —Villas - - : - 4y572
of fmoke: fj Villages—Lugones - - . - 125732
of huntin Hamlets—Aldeas . . ° ° 1,058
horns, an
eet fafety. * Townfend, ii. 79. + Ibid. ti, ais,
ANGUAGE: Granjas—
SPAIN.
Granjas —Farm hoyfes - » . ‘
: 6 8
Cotos redondas—Parks or wattes inclofed Fe s 61
Depopulated towns, ' - - - ¢
4 Ty5uy
Parifhes - - ° +e - 18,972
Convents . . !
Madrid, the royal refidence, while Seville is efteemed the Pes f
Spain, is of recent fame. Philip II. firft eftablifhed his court at Madrid
- and the nobility, in confequence, erecting numerous palaces, this f, me
merly obfcure town began to affume an air of grandeur. The centrieal
pofition feems the chief advantage, for the environs can boat of little
beauty or variety. The river Heareeneees is in winter a torrent. bite
dry in fummer: over. it is an elegant bridge, which occafioned a farcattic
remark that the-bridge fhould be fold in order to purchafe water, "Ty,
‘metropolis contains 13 parifhes, 7,938 houfes, 32,745 ‘families, amount.
ing to a population of 147,354. ‘The convents are 66 and there are
fifteen gates of granite, many of which are elegant. ‘T'he chief is the
Puerta de Alcala, of three arches, the central being 70 fect in height,
The churches and monatteries contain many noble paintings, and the &
. royal palaces difplay confiterable magnificence. _ The new palace pres
fents four fronts of 470‘feet in length, and roo in height, enriched with
numerous pillars and pilaiters. ‘The foundation was laid in 1737, threo
years after the ancient palace had fallen a facrifice to the flames, The
audience-chamber is defervedly admired, being a double cube of go fect
‘hung with crimfon velvet, and adorned with a fumptuous canopy me
painted ceiling. The prado is a fpacious courfe, in which the great dif.
play their elegant equipages.
At Madrid are thé royal manufaétures of china, faltpetre, &e. but
the city has little trade, and chiefly profpers by the prefence of the
court, and confluence of the great, whofe rents are- remitted to the
capital to the great injury of the kingdom at large.
Next in real importance to Madrid are the principal fea-ports, which
are enriched by commerce ; while the cities in the interior decline fro
the want of agriculture and inland navigation. The commerce of Ame
rica formerly centered ai Seville, but was afterwards removed to Cadiz
acity which is fuppofed to contain about 70,000 fouls +. The two ca
thedrals are grand; and there is an hofpital which will contain 600g
patients. The hofpicio, or general workhoufe, is an interelling ettablith
ment, containing more than 800 poor of all ages, who are here trained
to induftry.
Malaga is efteemed the fecond port inthe kingdom, and is alfo cel
brated for excellent wines, the rich Malaga, the mountain, fo calle
from the hills which produce the grape, and the tent or tinno, fo ityleg
from its deep red tinge. Malaga itands in a valley furrounded with hills
the houfes high, the ftreets: narrow and dirty. Inhabitants abo
40,000: the cathedral, begun in 1528, is not yet finifhed ; the convent
are 25, but of fmall account {.. This city {warms with thieves and me
dicants. ‘The municipal government refis with a corregidor or mayo
appointed by the crown ; but the regidors or aldermen are hereditar
There are alfo two fyndicos or tribunes to proteét the people.
"L'‘owards the S.E. is the third molt confiderable ~ of Spain, th
of Barcelona§. The ftreets are narrow and crooked; the churct
rather rich than beautiful. ‘The hofpicio contains about 1400 indultrio
poor, and there is a houfe of corre¢ticn which fometimes includes evé
z Ibid, iii. 10, &e. § aid, i, 106,
won
* Townfend, i, 253, + Ibid, if, o74.
fnes of Portug
appears Seville
The inhabitant
are opulent and
fnuffe (a roya
wit was found
nomen of rai
habitants of |
revails here,
ptures‘are {
chief import:
doth, and le:
this port 5 of
Danes. Bar
hls on the
pt the eaft
a iat the beft
@ Along the.
I the molt rer
Groyn, The
hut the pover
purces for tr:
een Portugal
pr their prob
The chief
fom the north
their ancient f
ging againit 1
gat lightnefs,
Pampalona |
ng of fome
phabitants are
rtiges of fo:
Catille, conta
ieellers,
“ragoffa, t
nd difplays m
about 2000 ftu
hoped that th
projected, like
thelength of
§t. Ander, in
terranean with
On the fou
fame, and re
between two
owhich is pla
the royal refi
of Charles V\
ben recently
ually ; but th
to 25,000.
Badajos, in
SPAIN. ; 293
815 romen of rank, if guilty of drankennefs or other low vices. The in-
61% pjbitants of Barcelona are computed at more than 100,000; and induftry
T5511 revails here, being a native virtue of the Catalonians : the chief manu-
18,972 fftures’are filk, cotton, and wool, ey.cellent fire-arms and cutlery 5 the
8,532 ef imports, corn, fifh, and woollen oe 3 exports, wie, brandy,
capital of Samm doth and leather. During peace it is fuppofed that 1000 veffels enter
at Madrid, tis port ; Of which half are Spanifh, 120 French, 100 Englith, and 6a
3, this for. Danes. Barcelona ftands in a plain open to the 5.E. but protected by
1e centrical iils on the north and weit, being a healthy and delightful retidence ;
ft of little wut the eaft wind commonly brings fog, and produces fuch irritability
srrent, but Mali tat the bett friends at fuch periods rather with to avoid each other.
Lafarcattic i Along the northern fhores of Spain there are few harbours of any note,
ater. This IM The molt’ remarkable is that of Corunna, by our mariners ftyled the
es, amount. Gyn, The harbour.is large and fafe; the town of a circular form ;
id there are hit the poverty of the furrounding province of Galicia affords few re-
chief is the jurces for trade ; and many of the natives are difperfed over Spain and
t in height, yen Portugal, as day labourers and fervants, being univerfally efteemed
gs, and the film ortheir probity and fidelity.
palace pre. The chief inland cities of Spain thall be briefly reviewed, beginning .
wriched with fomthe north. Oviedo and Leon are now inconfiderable, and only boatt
17375 three tir ancient fame, as fucceffive capitals of Spanifh royalty, when ftrug-
ames. The ging againft the Moors, ‘The cathedral at Leon is admired for its ele-
e of go fect, nt lightnefs.
canopy and Pampalona the capital of Navarre, is more remarkable for ‘the learn.
he great dif MMMM ng of fome of its prelates than for any other circumftance. The
habitants are about 5000. Burgos, the fee of an archhifhop, retains
rtiges of former opulence. Valladolid, in the fame province of old
(atille, contains fome woollen manufactures, and many goldfmiths and
ierellers.
' Syragoffa, the chief town uf Arragon, is the ancient Cefarea Augufta,
a difplays many rich churches and convents *. The univerfity contains
tout 2000 ftudents. There are no manufadtures: though it is to be
oped that thefe will be encouraged’ by the great canal of Arragon,
projected, like other Spanifh works, on a moit magnificent fcale, and of
thlength of about 250 Englifh miles, from the mouth of the Ebro to
st, Ander, in the weftern extremity of Bifcay ; thus uniting the Medi.
terancan with the Atlantic.
On the fouth of Madrid firft occurs Toledo, a city of confiderable
fme, and remarkable fituation; for the river Tajo, or Tagus, paffing
between two mountains of granite, almoft furrouads one of them,
which is placed the city, arifing like a cone +. ‘Toledo was formerly
the royal refidence ; and contains a grand palace, built in the reiga
of Charles V. The manufaéture of arms was long famous, and has
ben recently revived. ‘The archbifhopric is computed at g0,000l. an-
wally ; but the inhabitants, once calculated at 200,000, are now reduced
to 2 »000. ’
Baajos, in Eftremadura, is remarkable for its pofition on the very con.
fnes of Portugal, and isthe fee of a bifhop. In the fouthern provinces
appears Seville, famous till the year 1720, at the mart of American trade.
The inhabitants are computed at 80,000; and the churches and convents
are opulent and beautiful. ‘The chief manufactures are filk, and recently
fnuffs (a royal monopoly), not only the common Spanith, but rappee,
wit was found that the latter was {muggled from France. The tobacco
tre, &e. but
fence of the
itted to the
ports, which
dectine fro
erce of Ame
ed to Cadiz
The two ca
contain 6004
Ling eltablith
here trained
is alfo cel
ain, fo called
inno, fo ityleg
ded with hills
hitants abo
b the convent
eves and me
Hor or mayo
re hereditar
) les
ef Spain, th
the churcl
boo indultriot
5 includes eve
§ avid, i, 106.
* Townfend, i, 205, + Ibid. i. 903.
wom
employe
204 SPAIN.
employs 220 manufacturers, who are ftriétly examined and guarded
Seville is efteemed the chieF city of Spain. Madrid being only :
diftinguifhed by the royal refidence *.
Murcia, the capital of the province fo called, is of confiderable ac
count, and fituated in one of the moft beautiful vales in Spain +. The
inhabitants are probably about 60,000. There isa beautiful bridge over
the Segura ; ard the cathedral is lofty, but cannot boaft of internal opus
lence or beauty.
Granada has been long celehrated as the paradife of Spain, though |
the fouthern provinces be in general unhealthy. This city ftands 7 a
vale bounded by hills, beyond which to the fouth is the Sierra Nevada
fo called becaufe the mountains are covered with perpetual fnow, The
inhabitants are f{uppofed to be 80,000 ; the IMoorith palace here has been
already defcribed 5 and adjoining is a palace erected by Charles V. The
cathedral and convents contain excellent pictures by Spanith matters,
The municipal government is in a corregidor and twenty-four regidors,
There are beautiful public walks, and the environs are delightful and well
cultivated {.
Epirices.] The moft remarkable edifices of Spain are the cathedrals
of the feveral fees, and the churches belonging to opulent convents, The
houfes of the nobility are confined, with few exceptions, to the capital
and other cities, inftead of adorning the country at large, as in England,
The palace and monaftery of the Efcurial have been defcribed at great
rap by many travellers. It is feated in a deep recefs, at the foot of
high mountains ; and was built by that bigot Philip II. in the ftrange
form of a gridiron, the inftrument of the martyrdom of St. Lawrence,
upon whofe anniverfary the Spaniards gained the victory of St. Quintin,
The convent is 740 feet by 580; and the palace forms the handle of this
imaginary gridiron. The paintings are excellent and numerous; and
the vault containing the royal tombs is grand and impreffive. But the
palaces of Aranjuez and St. Ildefonfo are greater favourites with the
court, The gardens of the former, watered by the Tajo, are laid out
ina juft and natural tafte. St. Ildefonfo is a fummer refidence, expofed
to the north. The Pardo, another palace, ftands in the middle of a large
foreft.
INLAND NAVIGATION.] The inland navigations of Spain, though
commenced upon united principles of grandeur and utility, have been
permitted to languifh through the want of refources, and the flow mea
{ures of the court, rather than by any indolence of the fupezintendants
and labourers. The great canal of Arragon feems to remain in a ftate
of imperfeétion, though we are told that two branches are completed
from the Ebro towards Navarre, and have been attended with the mot
beneficial confequences. Another canal was to begin at Segovia, or
a town
* Dillon, 432. But the population of Madrid and Barcelona is far fuperior.
+ Townfend, iii. 130.
2 Gibraltar, fo called from a Moorith or Arabic denomination, fignifying the mountais
of Taik, who condugted the Moors into Spain, ftunds on the weft fide of a rocky mou
tain called Calpe by the ancients; and to the weft of the town isa large bay. In 1468
it was taken from the Moors; and in 1704 fell into the hands of the Englith. The fieg
during the American war is of freth and celebrated memory. The inhabitants of the town
are pe $000; and the garrifon generally amounts to as many. The number ani
firength of the military worke, and the vaft galleries opened in the calcareousrock, excite
admivation. There is a ftaladtitic cave, that of St. Michael, and bones are found in
the rock, which feem to have fallen into the cavities, where they are enveloped in the
exuding flied The fortrefs, in the opipion of molt military men, is abfolucy
impregnable
about im
shout 40 Tr
This is tetr
duaed wit!
gear the Ef
MANUFA
confiderabl y
lowing artic
Po Pn ee
q
The king h
fver, fealing:
Many mant
ad alliduity ;
indolence of
inquifitorial pe
tion of all kit
Spain fupplies
uticles to ma
own colonies ig
duction of falt
celebrated.
In the year
puted in poun
ee
alaga,
Seville,
Barcelona
Corunna,
Santande
Tortofa,
Canaries,
Gijon,
The duties y
The im 8
, ed ig t la F
guarded,
ly a town
rable ac.
it. The
ridge over
ernal opu-
n, though
ftands ina
a Nevada,
Ow, The
e has been
sV. The
fh matters,
r regidors,
ful and well
e cathedrals
vents. The
the capital
in England,
sed at great
the foot of
) the ftrange
-» Lawrence,
St. Quintin,
andle of this
erous 3 and
e. But the
es with the
are laid out
ce, expofed
dle of a large
pain, though
» have been
e flow mea.
perintendants
ain in a ftate i
re completed
ith the mot
Segovia, or
perior.
ing the mountait
Wf a rocky moun
p bay. In 1468
rlith. The firge
tants of the town
number and
pus rock, excite
nes are found in
enveloped in the
ren, ie abfolutcy
about
SPAIN.
205
rout 4o miles N. of Madrid, thence to extend to the bay of Bifcay.
This is tetmed the canal of Caltille. ~The cana. of Guadarama was con-
quaed with more fpirit, and is probably completed.
It was to open
year the Efcurial, and proceed fouth to the Tajo or Tagus.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. ] ‘The manufactures of Spain are
confiderably checked by the royal monopolies which extend to the fole
owing articles.
Broad cloth, at Guadalajara and Brihuega,
China, at the palace of the Buen Retiro,
Cards, at Madrid and Malaga.
Glafs, at St. Ildefonfo.
Paper, in Segovia.
Pottery, at Talavera.
Saltpetre, at Madrid and various other places.
Stockings, at Valdemoro.
Swords, at Toledo. ‘
Tapeftry, at Madrid,
Tiflue, at Talavera.
The king has alfo the monopoly of brandy, gunpowder, lead, quick.
flver, fealing-wax, falt, fulphur, and tobacco.
Many manufactures are however conducted in Spain with.great fpirit
ad affiduity ; and any failure muft not be imputed fo much to the
ndolence of the people, as to the prejudices of the great and the
inquifitorial power of the ecclefiaftics, which cramps genius and inven-
tion of all kinds, and conftrains the mind to the fame perpetual circle.
Spain fupplies wines, oil, fruits, filk, leather, broad cloth, and other
ticles to many European countries; but her chief trade is with her
own colonies in America, The foil of Spain is exuberant in the pro-
duction of faltpetre ; and the barilla, ufed in making glafs, has been long
celebrated.
In the year 1784 the exports from Spain to América were thus com-
puted in pounds fterling *.
Spanifh produce. Foreign produce.
Cadiz, 3,438,912 2,182,531
Malaga 196,379 14,301
Seville, 6257 1 3 30,543
Barcelona, 122,631 21,240
Corunna, 645595 39,962
Santander, 36,715 90,173
Tortofa, 7,669 289 .
Canaries, 24:974 _-
Gijon, 4281 10,198
£.1,958,849 £.2,389,229
The duties were computed at 170,800l.
Total produce.
3,621,443
210,680
939256
143,871
10495 37
126,888
75958
245974
14471
£.4,348,078
Theimports from America to Spain were, at the fame time, thus efti-
pated ig the fame money :
e Townfend, ii, 415,
dn
~ ee ees ee ee ee eae ee
SPAIN.
In Moncy and Jewels. In Merchandife,
Cadiz, 8,297,164 2,990,
Malaga, _ I i
Barcelona, 102,140 91,233
Corunna, 741,283 » 90,001
Santander, | 40,843 100,974
Canaries, 109,807 52,366
£. 952915237 £ 353431936
— V———————eee
The whole imports therefore exceeded twelve millions and a half s the
duty amounted to more than half a million,
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPIY.
Climate and Seafons.—F ace of the Countiy.—Soil and Agriculture.—Riney;,
— Lakes. — Mountains — Forefts.— Botany.— Zoology —- Mineralogy —
Mineral Watera—Natural Curiofities.
are ; HE climate of Spain has been defervedly |
CLIMATE AND sEasoys. ] T praifed, as saiale if not fuperior to th
of any country in Europe; but in the fouthern provinces the heat is
infalubrious, and malignant fevers fometimes {weep off great numbers,
The chains of mountains which pervade Spain at different intervals from
E.to W., feem to temper the climate, and fupply cooling breezes, In
the fouth the fea breeze, beginning about nine in the morning, and con.
tinuing till five in the evening, agreeably diverfifies the warmth of the
fummer ; and in the northern provinces the feverity of winter is allayed
by the proximity of the ocean, which generally fupplies gales rather
humid than frofty.
Face of THE CouNTRY.] The face of the country isin moft feafons
delightful, abounding with excellent and fragrant’ palturage, vineyards,
and groves of orange trees; and the hills clothed with wild thyme and
other odorous plants. The rivers and ftreams are numerous’; and the
chains of mountains afford a grand variety to the profpect.
SoiL AND AGRICULTURE. ] The foil is generally light, and repofes
beds of gypfum, or plafter of Paris, itfelf an excellent manure. « Th¢
common courfe of hufbandry * about Barcelona begins with wheat
which being ripe in June, is immediately fucceeded by Indian corn, hemp
millet, cabbage, kidney-beans, or lettuce. The fecond year thefe fam
crops fucceed each other as before. The next year they take barley,
beans, or vetches ; which, coming off the ground before midfummer,a
followed, as inthe former years, by other crops, only changing themaq
cording to the feafon, fo as to have on the fame {pot the greateft poffil
variety.’? Wheat produces ten for one; but in rainy feafons fifteen
Near Carthagena the courfe is wheat, barley, and fallow +. For whea
they plough thrice, and fow from the middle of November to the begi
® Townfend, i. 179, Ibid, iii, 194,
runs into the
ning ol
the fea
yields ¢
reaped
crop o'
in June
wheat y
oats fro
more fo
cane 18 ¢
peded in
which ar
province
mountatr
at 5,000,
teemed d
agricultu
culable.
RIVER
which anc
ftream rif
and purfe
having rut
are of lef
which enlj
Guadalqu:
river origi
after a cor
of the Sic
fources fed
of its cou
after a cird
Spain and
Arragon,
courfe of <
ancient Nu
The Minh
as forming
than for tl
Many othe
importance
Laks,
that they
lakes in thd
Guadiana,
Mount;
veral difting
the Pyrene
This chain
the Sierra q
muft be h
chain of md
* Near the
andife,
d a half; the
ture. — Rivers,
~ Mineralogy, —
seen defervedly |
fuperior to that
ces the heat is
great numbers,
t intervals from
g breezes. In
ning, and con.
warmth of the
inter is allayed
ies gales rather
sin mott feafons
rage, vineyards,
wild thyme and
erous’; and the
, and repoles 0
manure. “ The
s with wheat
dian corn, hemp
year thefe fam
ey take barley
» midfummer, a
hanging them ac
p greateft pofll
y feafons fiftee
For whee
ber to the begi
a4.
SPAIN. 204
ning of December ¢ in J uly they reap from ten to one hundred for one, as
the {eafon happens to be humid. The Huerta, or rich vale of Alicant,
yields a perpetual fucceffion of crops. Barley is fown in September,
reaped in April, fucceeded by maize, reaped in September ; and a mixed
crop of efculents follow. Wheat is fown in November, and reaped
in June, flax in September, pulled in May. In the vale of Valencia
wheat yields from twenty to forty ; barley from eighteen to twenty-four 5
cats from twenty to thirty ; maize one hundred; rice forty. In the
more fouthern provinces the Ihnd is almoft equally fertile.; and the fugar-
cane is cultivated with fuccefs near Granada. Agriculture is greatly im-
ededin Spain by the fuperior attention paid to the large flocks of fheep,
which are authorifed by a f{pecial code, the mefta, to travel from one
province to another, as the feafon prefents pafturage in the vales, or on the
mountains, ‘The Merino fheep, or flocks, thus privileged, are computed
at 5,000,000 5 and one nobleman has fometimes 40,000. ‘The fleece is ef
teemed doubled the value to that of other fheep ; but the checks given to
culable.
RIVERS: ] age: the chief rivers of Spain may be named the Ebro,
which anciently conferred an appellation on the country. This noble
ream rifes in the mountains of Afturias, in a {mall vale E. of Reifona,
and purfuing its courfe to the S.E. enters the Mediterranean fea, after
having run about 380 G. miles. The other rivers*running to the eaft
are of lefs importance, as the Guadalaviar, the Kucar, and the Segura,
which enlivens the fertile vales of Murcia. Towards the weft occurs the
Guadalquivier, the ancient Boetis, which gave name to the province. This
river originates in the Sierra Morena, and flows into the gulph of Cadiz,
aftera courfe of near 300 G. miles. ‘The Guadiana rifes in the N. fide
of the Sierra Morena, according: to Spanifh authors, though the chief
fources feem rather to be in the mountains of Toledo: it: purfues a part
of its courfe through Portugal, and falls into the gulph of Cadiz,
after a circuit nearly equal to that of the Ebro. But the chief river of
Spain and Portugal is the Tajo, or Tagus, which rifes in the weit of
Arragon, near Albarracin, in a {pring called Abrega*, and holds a
courfe of about 450 G. miles. The Douro fprings near the ruins. of
ancient Numantia: and its courfe may be computed at 350'G.° miles.
The Minho rifes in the mountains of Galicia; and is more remarkable
as forming a part of the boundary between that province and Portugal,
than for the length of. its circuit, which does not exceed 160 G. miles,
Many other ftreams pervade the northern provinces, but not of fufficient
importance to be here commemorated.
Laxgs.]' The lakes of Spain are fo few, and of fuch fmall extent,
that they fcarcely deferve notice. There is a fingular feries of {mall
ep in the S.E. of New Cattille, to which fome sign the fource of the
uadiana,
Mountains.] The Spanifh mountains are arranged by nature in fe.
veral diftin& chains. The moft northern is retardant Saipeetaeet
the Pyrenees, paffing on the S. of Bifcay and the Afturias in Galicia,
This chain is diftinguifhed by different names, as the mountains of Bifcay,
the Sierra of Afturias, and the mountains of Mondonedo in Galicia. It
muft be here obferved that the term Sierra, peculiar to Spain, implies a
chain of mountains, whofe fucceffive peaks prefent the refemblance of a
* Near the Sierra Blanca, efteemed the higheft fiuation in Spai i
wii 4 Sal Sis cons g ituation in Spain, as the Guadalaviar
faw.
agriculture by fuch privileges, unknowg to all other countries, are incale
208 SPAIN.
aw. The gypfeous and argillaceous mountains of this country,
Jribiting mth fupreme elevation, like thofe in the granitic sbaize ei
rally fugyefted this fingular appellation. ;
The fecond chain of Spanifh mounta'n: extends from near Soria
on the N.E. and purfues a S.W. direCtion sowards Portugal, This
chain is called that of Urbia or Guadarama ; and alfo the Montes Gan,
pentanos*, The third is that of Toledo, running nearly parallel with
the laft. Thefe two central chains feem to contain great quantities of
ranite.
. Next towards the S. is the Sierra Morena, or Brown Mountains, which
are followed by the moft fouthern ridge, that of the Sierra Nevada,
One the eaft there is a confiderable chain, which connects the two cen.
tral ridges, and advances towards the Mediterranean in the north of Va.
lencia. There are alfo feveral confiderable ranges of hills in this part of @
the kingdom, generally running from N. to S.
A remarkable folitary mountain, not far from Barcelona, mutt not be
omitted. At a diftance Montferat appears like a fugar loaf; but ona
nearer approach feems jagged lik a faw, with pyramidical rocks ; it jg
compofed of limeftone and gravel united by calcareous cement : and is of |
fuch a height that from its fummit may be difcerned the iflands of Ma.
jorca and Minorca, at the diftance of fifty learues+. Not far from
Monelesrar; near the village of Cardona, isa hill three miles in circum.
ference, which is one mafs of rock falt, ufedin the dry climate of Spain
for vafes, {nuff-boxes, and trinkets, like our Derbythire f{par.
The Spanith fide of the Pyrenees has not been accurately examined ;
and as the French mineralogifts have amply illuftrated the part belonging .
to France, an account of thefe mountains has been given in the defcrip.
tion of that country. In the want of a general and {cientific account of
‘the Spanith mountains, a few notices muft fuffice, extrafted from different
parts of Townfend’s thavels. Aceprding tothat intelligent obferver the
northern fide of the Pyrenees is chiefly calcareous, furmounted with
argillaceous fchiftus ; but the fouthern is granite, and of courfe barren }.
The hills to the fouth of Gerona are alfo granitic. The highett ridge in
Spain, near Daroca, whence originate the Taje and Ebro, feems come
ofed of argillaeeous fchiftus and freeftone, probably refting on apa §.
ear Anchuela the mountains are limeflone with fhells ; and fometimes
contain beds of red gypfum with cryftalsof the fame colour. In gene.
ral gypfum is as abundant in Spain, as chalk is in England. The moun.
tains on the north of Madrid, forming part-of the central chain, are gra-
nite ||. Thofe to the north of Leon chiefly marble or limeftone, ona
bafis of argillaceous f{chiftus, rifing in bold and rugged rocks which af.
forded a barrier to the remains of Spanifh liberty. In returning towards
the S., the foil of la Mancha is fandy, the rock gypfum. The higher
regions of the Sierra Morena are granite: the lower argillaceous {chittus
with gypfum and limeitone. The granite is of two kinds, the red and
the white q. ;
Near Cordova the higheft hills are covered with rounded maffes of
nite, grit, and limeftone. Near Malaga are branches of the Sierra
evada, or {nowy chain, an appellation which might alfo be extended
to the central range between Old and New Cattille, which according to
' Mr. “Townfend, might at fome times be viftble at the diftance of 100
® Dillon, p. 115, fays the mountains dividing the two Caftiles, are called thofe of
adaroma,
eo Tomnfend, 169, tL2ig, § 4919, ff ii, 956.i,2076 q ii, 290. 297.
miles ;
here almoft 1
birch, the mo
the juniper, 9
of the vegeta
Spain, contitt
ftone, and fer
tris forming
ridges, with }
riks; thefe
ilaceous fc
fund rocks,
fone with fhe
re gypleous,
srl Spale
a fort of di
Gata the hills
inferred from
Forests. ]
of cultivation
tht of the E
the forefts are
fom the unw;
Borany. ]
mountains is d
yernments of
kinds of foil,
torial divifion,
ceflarily incluc
‘much repetiti
botany of the
Spain, inch
may be divide
mountains, the
marfhes along:
The fea tho
rfembling for
coats of the ]
fea daffodil,
there are exten
celona, for the
analkaline falt
every year mar
preparation of
calcareous, an
caper bufh, a
extraordinary
and, in fhort,
The high
maflesas thofe
only for a tew
tainous ridges
familiar to the
Spain are four
The long ral
The Spanifl
a
SPAIN. 209
niles; thefe branches prefent limeftone and marble, furmounted by ar-
aceous {chiftus. Near Alhama S.E, of the city of Granada, are
fund rocks, which on a bafis of fhingle or round gravel prefent fand-
fone with fhells, furmounted with pudding-ftone, but in general the rocks
'y, rately
NS, tlatue
sar Soria ye gypleous, with ftrata of the fame fubttance chryftallized. The S.E.
al. = This st of Spain feems calcareous, and the cathedral of Murcia is built with
onies Car. sfort of limeitone refembling the roe of fifh, But near Cape de
allel with Gitathe hills feem to have been volcanic, as French mineralogifts have
antities of ferred from the fingularity of its productions.
Forests.] Spain contains many foretts, partly arifing from the want
ins, which (cultivation, partly referved for the royal pleatures of the chace; as
vada. tat of the Pardo, which extends near thirty miles in length ; fome of
> two cene the forefts are haunted by {mugglers and banditti, who raife contributions
th of Va. fom the unwary travellers ; and even murders are not unfrequent.
his part of Borany.] Although the Gest promontory weft of the Pyrenean
nountains is divided, by its political interelts, into the independent go
ft not be wmments of Spain and Portugal, yet the diftribution of the different
; butona kinds of foil, and natural produéts, is fo little conformable to the teriie
cks; it is torial divifion,. that an account of the botany of either country muft ne-
; and is of HMMM celarily include the great outlines of the other; it will therefore fave
ds of Ma. ‘mich repetition to unite the two kingdoms in a general {ketch of the
; far from botany of the whole promontory.
in circum. Spain, including by this term the whole country. weft of the Pyrenees,
e of Spain my be divided according to its botany into the fea-fhore ; the high
mountains, the lower ones; the arable lands, the grazing tracts and
examined ; narfhes along the rivers ; and the vicinity of Lifbon and Oporto.
belonging . The fea fhore pf Spain prefents fewer peculiarities than the interior s
he defcrip. rfembling: for rf moft part in its vegetable produdtions the northern
account of cats of the Mediterranean: the flat fandy traits are occupied by the
ym different fa daffodil, fome coarfe kinds of grafs, and falfola fativa; of this laft
pbferver the there are extenfive plantations in the neighbourhood of Alicant and Bare
unted with celona, forthe purpofe of procuring from its afhes the Spanith barilla,
fe barren {. analkaline falt of confiderable purity, of which fome thoufand tons are
eft ridge in every year manufactured, partly for foreign commerce, and partly for the
feems com- preparation of the fine Spanifh foap. The rocks on the coait are chiefly
n granite j. calcareous, and abound with famphire, tree violet, tragacanth vetch,
femnetins caper bufh, and the celebrated efparto grafs, which, on account of its
In gene- extraordinary toughnefs, is ufed for making ropes, mats, chair bottoms,
The moun- and, in fhort, all the articles included under the French term /parterie.
Ain, are gta The high mountains of Spain being neither fo lofty, nor in fuch large
pftone, ona maflesas thofe of Swifferland, are for the moft part covered with fnow
s which af- only for a tew weeks in the year ; heretherefore, and in the lower moun-
ng towards HMM tainous ridges that border the bay of Bifcay, we find a number of plants
The higher #@ familiar to the plains of the north of Europe; the fineft timber trees in .
ous {chiitus
Spain are found in thefe elevated regions, and the Englifh botanilt might
the red and
here almoft think himfelf in his native country; the oak, the lime, the
birch, the mountain afh, the yew, the beech, the larch, the holly, and
the juniper, grow to a confiderable fize, and are the moit characteriftic
of the vegetable productions.
The long ranges of moderate fized hills that occupy the greateft part of
Spain, coniilt either of extenfive arid tracts of fand, of arenaceous fand-
ftone, and ferruginous rubble forming the heaths ; of dry calcareous dif-
tritts forming the fheep-walks ; or of moilt rough granitic and marble
ridges, with but a fhallow foil forming the woodlands.
The Spanith heaths are gayer and o with plants than thofe of any
other
d maffes of
f the Sierra
be extended
cording to
ce of 100
led thofe of
ft, 290. 297.
miles ;
eo
Sapo
. 5 3 - -
> ? / ~ .
: —
Prec neee asin canna ansonnstanisenenaaamenatneimnamtnmentninessemcaioiatien deltas oei ak amnesia iti oh atts SN
£ -
210 SPAIN.
other European country; in fome parts are thick woods of the yews
leaved fir and tone pine, in others are fcattered groves of cork trees
here the traveller is regaled with the fragrance of numberlefs aromatic
plants, the mattich thyme s fpike lavender ; common and Spanith fage ;
and rofemary. The golden bloffoms of the gorfe, a plant chiefly found
in England and Spain ; and the crimfon, flefh coloured, and {nowy flowers
of the arborefcent heaths mutually heighten each other ; the elegant li.
thofpermum fruticofum entangles itfelf among thickets of dwarf myrtle
and every fpot of fand or dry rock, forfaken by other vegetables, .
adorned and perfumed by the ciftus ; of this plant there are no lefs than
fourteen fpecies natives of Spain; all of them eminently beautiful for their '
broad filken bloffonis of pure white or yellow, with deep crimfon eyes:
the laurel leaved ciftus, is moft frequent in Old Caftille, but the commonef
of allis the gum ciftus, a moft elegant and fragrant fhrub from fix to
feven feet high, which occupies whole miles of dry rock, and on this ac.
count forms a very peculiar feature in the fcenery of Spain.
The fheep-walks are for the moft part open downs with little thelter,
except here and there a grove of chefnut trees, or ever-green oaks; the
have become
to the fields
yd Indian fi
fplendid feill.
fpeciofum $ ar
fately magne
fom Goa, tl
be ‘eral others
vith a profufi
ZOOLOGY. |
hen famous 1
adfpirited fte
Arabian. TI
imoble animal
as been long
delicacy oF the
as, and aroma
isto be fufpeé
turf differs effentially from that of the Englith theep-walks in containin , MINERALOC
very few {pecies of grafs, being chiefly compofed of the fmaller papillon. esa og
ceous plants.
The woodlands of Spain demand particular notice, in an account of
its vegetable produétions ; we find here none of that noon-da night of
fhade that fpreads fuch an awful folemnity over the recefles of the Ger.
man and Englifh forefts; the trees are neither fo large, nor is their foliage
fo ample. Several of the calcareous fummits are covered with chefnut
trees and box, but the great mafs of the woods confilts, of the ever-green
{weet oak. This tree 1s about the fize of a large pear tree, which it
fomewhat refembles in its manner of growth its leaves are lanceolate,
generally founc
of all filver was
tohis time, beit
tilled Bebelo h
being pierced f
lege ftreams of
called hufhing b
of the Turditan
metals; and gr
reen above and hoary beneath, curled and rather fcanty $ it produces
fh ¢ crops of fweet acorns, which are extenfively applied to the fattening
of hogs, and the nourifhment of the peafants. Intermixed with thele
ave the wild olive, the kermes oak, walnut and carob tree; the almond
fixes itfelf in the crevices of the rocks along with the fumach ; the laurel,
the bay, the lauruftinus, and Portugal laurel, attain the height of {mall
trees, and yield a cool and fhady retreat even in the midit of a Spanith
fummer.
Where the ground is fufficiently deep and moift for cultivation and rich
palturage, a number of beautiful bulbous-rooted plants appear in the early
autumn and fpring, and give a peculiar gaiety at that time to the Spanifh
profpedts 5 two fpecies of afphodel mzy be faid in a manner to over{pread
the whole country ; yen alfo of the following are fearcely lefs common;
yellow amaryllis ; jonquil; cluttered hyacinth; dog's tooth violet; orange
and martagon lily; and wild tulip.
The fallows and dry thickets abound with the fan-palmetto, yellow lupin,
Spanith broom, and white broom, In the hedges are found the laurel and
common paffion flower, warn
Both Spain and Portugal are for the moft part deficient in water ; the
rivers flow through rocky channels, and therefore there are few marhhes,
and ftill fewer bogs: the fides of the rivulets however are adorned with the
oleander, laburnum, tamarifl, and myrtle, which in thefe fituations gro
with unufval luxuriance,
The vicinity of Lifbon and Oporto, and of a few other towns ont
coaft, is rem: -kable as to its botany for a number of Indian, African, and
Ancrican plants, which have gradually ftrayed out of the gardens, avd
8 ,
abundant, nor
and torrents, a
cerning, the min
workmen, and
of filver were
becomes of the
certainly derived
cattle, hides, a
At prefent,
canal, in the Si
mines of quickfi
employed in re
Alcavas, cobalt
the frontiers of
ditri&s, The
character ; and ¢
where alfo occ
Spanith azabacl
Alturias, "The
the beautiful er
the elaitie marb
antico found ne
4 Minera. w
¥
* Lib, xuxtii. on
“ppar-mjyg of Ly
he yews
K trees ;
aromatic
ith fage ;
Aly found
y flowers
legant li.
f myrtle,
tables, is
lefs than
l for their’
fon eyes:
ommoneft
‘om fix to
on this ac.
tle fhelter,
oaks; the
containing
papiliona.
ccount of
ry night of
the Ger.
heir foliage
th chefnut
ever-green
e, which it
; the laurel,
ht of finall
f a Spanih
jon and rich
in the early
the Spanith
yellow lupin,
he laurel and
‘
’
African, a"
gardens, fe
aves
SPAIN. — 3air
ae become completely naturalized tothe foil and climate; the hedges
o the fields are not unfrequently formed entirely of the A’merican aloe,
nd Indian fig ; the rich foil on the bank of the Tagus glows with the
(lendid {cilla hyacinthoides, the ornithugalum Arabicum, and the allium
feciofum s and ti:e fheltered groves and funny rocks of Belem prefent the
ately magnolia, the date palm, a beautiful kind of cyprefsy originally
fom Goa, the tea tree from China, the Cape jafmine, the ice plant, and
Be eral others of the fame genus from the Cape of Good Hope, together
yitha profufion of geraniums and heaths.
ZooLocy.] The glory of the Spanifh zoology is the horfe, which has
yen famous in all ages, probably originating from the barb, or beautiful
nd{pirited fteed from the north of Africa, the immediate offspring of the
Arabian. ‘The Spanifh mules are alfo excellent, and the afs is here no
imoble animal, though not equal to that of Arabia. The breed of fheep
as been long celebrated as perhaps fuperior to any in the world, for the
dlicacy Of the mutton, and the beauty of the fleece. ‘The purity of the
as, and aromatic pafture, no doubt contribute to both qualities, which it
sto be fufpeéted would degenerate on tranfportation.
,MinerALocy.] The mineralogy of Spain was anciently of more ime
portance than in modern times. Pliny *, after obferving that filver was
nerally found with galena, or lead ore, proceeds to {tate that the faireft
ofall filver was found in Spain, where the pits, begun by Hannibal, lafted
tohis time, being known by the names of their original difcoverers, That
lled Bebelo had yielded to Hannibal 3ool. weight a day, a mountain
being pierced for a mile and a half, through which the workmen direéted
bree treams of water; fo that the plan purfued feems to have been that.
ald hufhing by modern writers. Strabo + informs us that the province
ofthe Turditara, modern Andalufia, was the moft produétive of precious
metals; and gold, filver, brafs, and iron, were no where found more
abundant, nor of better quality: gold was found in the fands of the rivers
and torrents, a known attribute of the ‘Tagus. Polybius informs us cons
cerning the mines of filver near Carthagena, which occupied a number of
workmen, and yielded to the Romans 25,000 drachms daily. Other mines
of filver were found near the fources of the Betis. This intelligence
becomes of the more importance, as Britain and other regions of the weft
certainly derived their gold and filver from Gaul and Spain, in return for
cattle, hides, and other products.
At prefent, almoft the only filver mines in Spain are thofe of Guadal-
canal, in the Sierra Morena. At Almaden, in La Mancha, are valuable
mines of quickfilver, which are chiefly remitted to Spanith America, and
employed in refiniag the more precious metals, Calamine appears near
Alcavas, cobalt in the Pyrenees; antimony in La Mancha; copper on
the frontiers of Portugal ¢; tin in Galicia; and lead is common in man
ditris, ‘The iron of Spain is abundant, and {till maintgins ite high
character ; and coals are found in the diftrict of Villa Franca, in Catalonia,
where alfo occur gold, filver, copper, and lead §, Amber and jet =
Spanifh azabache ) are found together in the territory of Belonchia in the
Altorias, "The other minerals are rather curious than important, fuch as
the beautiful eryitallized fulphur found at Conilla, not far from Cadiz,
the elaitic marble of Malaga, and the green marble releinbling the verde
antico found near Granada.
| Minera warers.}] Spain contains many mineral waters, but few are
t See Dillon, 1965 for an eecount of the
§ Towal, ij, O44, Uda.
ba celebrated.
* Lib, xmnlii, cap. vi. + Lib. iil.
eopper-mjug Of La Plagjla, near Medina.
at SE i EG 2 NREL IAA EOE ALIS AAI DALE TIO EH ROBT IE
242 SPAIN.
celebrated. The hot fprings of Rivera de Abajo are fituated not fap
from Oviedo’ and bear fome refemblance to thofe of Bath. Near Alicant |
are the baths of Buzot, warm {prings of a chalybeate nature, rifing, like |
the former, among calcareous hills.
Naturat cuntosities.] The natural curiofities of Spain have been |
little illuftrated... The rock of Gibraltar, as is well known, in fome parts
contains bones which have been fuppofed to be human ; but are now dif.
coveted to belong to quadrupeds, and to have been depofited in the fiffures
from above. This rock is chiefly caleareous, and on the weft fide ig
itala@itic cave called St. Michael’s.
SPANISH ISLES.
The chief circumjacent iflands belonging to Spain are Majorca, Minorca
and Eviza; or, according to Spanifh orthography, Mallorca, Menorca,
Ibiza. Majorca is about 55 Englifh miles in length by 45 in breadth,
The N.W. part is hilly; the reft abounds with cultivated land, vineyards,
orchards, and meadow ; the air is temperate, and the honey highly elteemed:
there is generally a confiderable military force in the ifle. The capital,
{cated on a fair bay, is an elegant city, and is fuppofed to contain 10,000
inhabitants. Majorca was reconquered from the Moors by James I. king
of Arragon, in 1229.
Majorca is generally in toa ftrong a Rate of defence to admit of an ealy
conqueft, but Minorca has been repeatedly feized by the Englith, to whom
it prefents an advantageous {tation for the Mediterranean trade. It.is
about 30 miles in length, by about 12 of medial breadth. The air is
moift, and the foil rather barren, being chiefly calcareous, with lead and
fine marble. ‘The wine is praifed ; of the inhabitants retain a thare of
their ancient reputation as excellent flingers. Cittadella, the capital, has
a tolerable haven, but the population and fortifications are of little conte.
quence. Port Mahon, on the S.E. has an excellent harbour, and received
its name from Mago, the Carthagiman general. Eviza is the nearef to
Spain, about 1g miles long, and 12 broad. It is remarkable for its fruits,
avd abundauce of excellent falt,
TURKEY IN EUROPE.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGKAPHY.
Names.me EF atent.— Boundaries.——Original Population Progreffive Geogra-
phy. —Hiflorical Epochs and Antiquities.
PPLE Turkith empire, once fo formidable to Europe, has lately funk
betore the power of Rullia; yet ancient fame confpires with the re-
maining extent and population of the Turkith dominions, to entitle this
power to a place ainong the preponderating fovereignties both of Europe
and Afia, ‘Turkey in Europe is computed to contain 182,560 _
ess
, | aan Sivetd
hot far | |
Alicant
> like
e been
le parts
iow dif.
fiffures
fide is a
oe ED ECM ENDO LLL TELL EOE ID ELE SS
Minorca,
Menorca, |
breadth,
ineyards,
lkeemed :
> capital,
1 10,000
es I. king
Sea DC Rn:
cme Er RRC are) ea ete seReRaNRentnaee SIS
of an eafy
» to whom
de. It.is |
The air is + \h tie I pea
h lead and : | eR
7 .)8 > ” o ws Q
a hare of or) rs en re
apital, has
ttle confe.
d received
nearek to
r its fruits,
vik Aephin
} yo Ka lath
) 4
ter , Maer
Five Geogra- 1, ° ¢ ’ ~ a
4 '
lately funk
ith the re«
entitle this
of wom
6o {quare
’ aint
<-
Hiaan ‘timnet
M
F c
Rovigrte ,
»@
nF
F Piva
bt
SY gno @ , Pod hin
Sentariy?
Raga Z
tt
ey
~ j Shovel , heasto
o
AL | ef
we rr of M ; kj Davagno .
Fo : ‘ a ‘
New
"0lt
Compt dyriiey !
Sold
Provetht..
ivnenth
Patho Made
|
|
4
aoe R |
‘Mia
Sa ase ly Die annie oe AN Fda eo landed
4a
. - A, ST 7
Sealy fie) lei ze. Tires le Mateope Ma Anoweliiitlia Maye
Publiated Aprdl sadirs,|y iit & Mavic Mramd, & Longmen MRece, Paters
Yim EUROPE,
4
4 =
Ny | Gradif ure Me yaa anor R Ati
, radifka “eK i Yer por —. A om +:
Rink)
y ‘yf re eons
f =
‘
Lessto
UE
& wh
E Dives AUnO , %
mbt
0 chet 4
<i
hy OaNipol Vf Dy Ete Pou livo
me f \ \iinabad ta) a
gpa tf ES
| A =
Cont Ra yaate —
~ Sal Sedvnnyrta
ile 2 a fPergame~
Preveth Mare divin ra tarhie
‘ ty -
wy ay p
we x sages
‘ ~ se
/ age hiv a wynoponl es de
' wails ithdke ” ‘ 4 ev up
0 4) a ,
¢ reve? Np oe ¥ ti : spheihs
Ri , 45 2, indy» ” amo > Senin hovn ;
. 4 a ~~ >
& AtTeaun Kaladt
Ci Ray
Calamatl
| Novcle it : Ns
aa Se :
| WA
N bn A
St
a> wt *
pete oe _. Aencmeesesm
|
Be hikly oL BM aa te esos aianbrdeieg
Mie Harerpe Mean Aveo tiitlia Mayo
rar, & Longin Miter, futur Row,
of the
Miay in
even t
Turks
fende
bxth Cc
TURKEY IN EUROPE. 213
smiles an extent which exceeds that of Spain, or even France under the
ancient monarchy. ;
NAMES AND PROVINCES. ] As Kuropean Turkey forms a recent fove-
reignty, the greater part of which was fubjugated in the fifteenth century,
after the fall of Conftantinople and of the Byzantine empire, there is no
ancient appellation for its whole extent. It embraces many ancient king-
doms and republics, which now ont afford a melancholy remembrance
of claffical names and events. 1. Moldavia, the moft northern province,
was part of ancient Dacia; and Yafly was the Ja/fiorum Municipium of the
Romans. 2. Budzac, or Beffarbia*, was a country of the Getz and
Peucini. 3. Walachia was alfo a province of the ancient Dacians; while,
4. Bulgaria on the S. of the Danube embraces nearly the two provinces of
Mafia. 5. Romelia, a vaft territory, contains ancient Thracia, Pzonia,
Macedonia, and the northern part of the claffical country of Greece;
while. 6. the Morea is equivalent to the ancient Peloponnefus. To the
W. of Romelia extends, 7. Albania; which includes the kingdom of
Epirus, Chaonia, and a part of Illyricum. 8. Dalmatia retains its ancient
appellation : while, 9. Servia, and, 10. Bofnia, reprefent ancient Pan-
nonia, 11. Turkifh Croatia, the moft weftern province of the empire,
alfo forms a portion of ancient Pannonia, with perhaps a {mall diftri€t of
Noricum.
In recent times Turkey has loft the provinces of the Krim, and new
Servia) which, with feveral Afiatic diftriéts, have become fubje& to
Ruffia; and on the W., Tranfylvania, Sclavonia, with the Buckovina,
part of Moldavia, and a great .part of Croatia, have fallen under the
power of .Auittria.
Extent. ] Turkey in Europe extends about 870 miles in length,
from the northern boundary of Moldavia, to Cape Matapan in the Morea.
The breadth from the river Unna to Conftantinople is about 680 Britifh
miles, The eaftern and fouthern boundaries are formed by the Euxine
or Black Sea, the fea of Marmora, the Archipelago, and the Mediter-
ranean. The utmoft northern limit is now the river Dniefter; but the
weftern often confifts of an arbitrary line, and is fometimes fupplied by
rivers or mountains. ‘
ORIGINAL POPULATION, | The original population of this empire chiefly
{prung from the ancient Scythians on the Eaxine, the progenitors of the
Dacians, Thracians, &c. and even of the Greeks. Thefe were originally
blended, towards the north, with many Sarmatic or Slavonic tribes ; and
on the fall of the Roman empire, the latter fpread more and more towards
the fouth, fo that nearly one half of the population may now be regarded
as Slavonic; but Watachia is fuppofed to contain many defcendants of the
ancient Roman fe'tlers in Dacia. The extent of the Turkifh empire has
contributed to minzle this original population with various Afiatic races,
among whom the Turks themfelves deferve particular mention. That
branch called te Ottomans, which has pruved fo deltructive to Europe,
derived their ame from the calif Othman, who reigned in the beginnmg
of the fourteenth century, and extended his fway into the plains of Bithy-
nity in which fe conquered Nicomedia and Prufa, and thus approached
even tathe gates of Conttantinople +. But the name and power of the
Turks are of far more remote antiquity. ‘They are fuppofed to have de-
fended from the Altaian mountains in ‘latary, about the middle of the
pxth century + and dpread gradually towards the weit, ull they reached
* Not Beilarabia, an abfard corruption. + Gibbon, xi, 432,
P 3 the
»
snails ates cena ae aN et TEAR At NOLEN TA LTD LOLI LLL,
214 TURKEY IN EUROPE.
the lake Mzotis*. Yet the ftrength of the empire reftric&ed them to the cyra, bet
region near the river Oxus, whence the califs derived their Turkith guatds, power t 4
wlio afterwards fubverted the throne of Bagdad. The Hungarians, who Mouta wi
{pread deftruction through great part of Europe in the tenth century, are 1. The
known to have been a branch from the Finnith ftem: but the Turks, or they recel
Turkomans, properly fo called, fpread from the Oxus and Samarcand even from
to the eaft of Periia, where Mahmoud of Gazna eftablithed a powerful called by |
kingdom, fubdued by the Turks of Bochara, who in the eleventh century 5. Cont
founded the dynafty of the Seljuks. The fultans of this race gradually 1456 hapy
extended their power towards the welt, and Armenia and Georgia were Morea bec
among their firit acquifitions in the Byzantine empire. Towards the Italy was t
middle of the fourteenth century, the Turks firft paffed into Europe; out Europ
and foon after feized the greateft part of Thrace. In the beginning a Ge
. of the fifteenth century, heis fultan Bajazet extended his conquetts eonqueft o
even to the Danube; and the provinces of Thrace and Macedonia Turks: th
fell under the Turkith {ceptre, while Adrianople became the feat of their
government.
noted battle
the fultan §
From this deduétion it will appear, that it was chiefly with European at the head
troops that the Turks finally fubverted the Byzantine empire. From the deric, prince
diverfity of nations which joined their ftandard, from intermarriages with Miia tuine
women of Circaffia, and many other circumftances which need not be here netians in 15
recapitulated, the modern Turks may be regarded as a mixture of many 7. In the
races of men. If they originally fprung from the Altaian mountains, 2s delivered Ev
the beft records induce us to,believe, they feem to have formed a part of tinued howe
the nations ftyled by the ancients ‘* the Scythians beyond the Imaus Au
and their fub{equent fettlement on the Oxus muft have {welled their pos
pulation with Sogdian and Ba@trian tribes. |
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. | 'The progreflive geography of Turkey in
Europe is reflected in the greateft luitre from the claffical pages of anti.
with Perfia
the fultan I
mouth of the
fone Grecia
them to retai
quity, and through the annals of the Byzantine empire to modern times, im 8, Mahome
Under the Byzantine empire, in the tenth century, the Peloponnefus con. ud in 1663
_ tained no lefs than forty cities, whofe ruins ftill exhibit the lamentable istaken in 16
marks of the devaflations of the Ottoman barbarians, whofe only power The fiege of
is to deflroy, and whofe baleful {way extingvifhes all induftry and prof. Hungary bees
perity. The Turkith divifion into provinces has keen already fated, til 1699, the
Hisroricau epocus. ] It would be difficult and unfatisfactory minutely rania to the
to ftate the hiftorical epochs of this extenfive dominion, containing fo many Ruffians.
ancient kingdoms and itates. It fhall therefore be only premifed that, after
the Roman arms had fubdued thefe countries and cities, many of which
are celebrated in the moft ancient pages of hiltory, they became in the
fifth century an important part of the Byzantine empire ; and the hifto.
g. In 1736;
the Turks, b
fone parts o
Ruffia is contty
rical epochs moft appropriated to the prefent defign will delineate their 10. The mo
dual {ubjugation by the Turks. : hbfequent dec
“7 The fit dawn of ‘Turkih hiftery preceding the reign of Othman, Some of the
A.D. 1299. the Turkith p
2. In the reign of his fucceffor, Orkan, the Turks take Gallipoli, and
penetrate into ‘(Thrace ; which province was foon after conquered, and
Adrianople was taken A.D. 1360. T-vo years afterwards the fultan
Amurath eftablifhed the famous mi itary bands called Janizaries, com
pofed of Chriftian flaves educated in Mahometanifm from their intancy.
3. The reign of Bajazet, who defeats the Hungarians at Nicopoli, ink
Bulgaria, A.D. 1396. In 1402 the famous battle was fought near Av
belt interetts
a peltilence fe
ame curiofity
tuthquake,
ANTIQUITIE
kiown to excee
he remains of
bf the arts, hay
tpeatedly defo
Cy dicated to the
* Gibbon, vii, 284,
TURKEY iN EUROPE. 218
cyra, between Bazet and Timur, which for a peviod checked the Turkith
m #2 iy ower: Yel mm 1412 the emperor Sigifmund was defeated by the fultan
a on Mouta with great flaughter, — ; oes -
sisy a 4, The Turks continue to increafe their dominion in Europe, though
ae aa they received fevere checks from the Hungarians under Hunniades, and
‘indent even from the Albanians commanded by the celebrated George Caftriota,
porieiful called by the Turks Scanderberg.
h century , Conftantinople taken by the Turks on the 29th of May 1453. In
gradually 1456 happened the fiege of Belgrade by Mahomet II, Corinth and the
rgia were Morea became fubjeét to the Crefcent A.D. ee In 1480 Otranto in
mandb-the Italy was taken by the Turks, an event which diffufed great terror throughs _
Europe ; oit Europe. i
beginning 6, A confiderable acceffion to the Turkifh power took place in the
conquetts eonquelt of Egypt, A.D. 1517. In 1522 Rhodes fubmits to the
Macedonia Turks: the knights were afterwards transferred to Malta. In 1526 the
poted battle of Mohatz, in which Lewis.king of Hungary perifhed ; and
the fultan Soliman foon after took Buda. In 1529 he befieges Vienna
at of their
, European at the head of 250,000 men, but the city being bravely defended by Fre-
From the deric, prince palatine, the Turks withdrew with great lofs. In 1552 the
riages with Turks feized the Bannat of Temefwar; and took Cyprus from the Ve-
not be here etians in 1571. .
re of many n.In the fame year was the famous naval battle of Lepanto; which
ountains, 2s
ed a part of
he Imaus ;”
ed their po-
{eivered Europe from any apprehenfion of the Turks by fea. They con-
tinue? however to invade Hungary with various fuccets, But their wars
with Perfia gradually diverted their arms from Europe, In 1642
the fultan Ibrahim took from the Coffacs the town of Azof at the
mouth of the Don. ‘Towards the middle of this century they feized
fome Grecian ifles, which the naval power of the Venetians had enabled
them to retain. ;
8, Mahomet IV. renews the wars againft the emperer of Germany 3;
f Turkey in
ages of anti.
hodern times, fim
onnefus con and in 1663 the Auftrians were defeated in Hungary. The ifle of Candia
e lamentable istaken in 1669, after a long blockade and fiege. Wars with Poland.
b only power The fiege of Vienna, 1683, was raifed by John Sobiefki king of Poland.
ry and prof.
ly ftated.
ory minutely
ning fo many
od that, after
any of which
became in the
ind the hitto.
elineate their
Hungary became the fcene of repeated 'Turkifh and Auftrian conquefts,
till 1699, the peace of Carlovitz, by which the Turks yielded Tranfyl-
vania to the Auftrians, the Morea to the Venetians, and Azof to ‘the
Ruffians.
g. In 1736 a fuccefsful war was begun with the Ruffians and Auttrians ;
the Turks, by the peace of 1739, refumed Belgrade and Orfova, with
fome parts of Servia and Walachia, formerly ceded to Auttria; and
Ruffia is conftrained to abandon Azof.
10. The more recent wars of the Ruffians againft the Turks, and the
fubfequent decline of the Ottoman empire.
Some of the events here commemorated are comparatively minute; but
the Turkifh power has been fo deltruétive, wherever it {pread, to the
belt interetts of humanity, that even the {maller ramifications of fuch
a peltilence feem not undeferving of being commemorated, with the
ame curiofity that natural hiltorians defcribe the utmoft extent of an
arthquake,
Antiquities. ] The ancient monuments of European Turkey ave well
known to exceed in number and importance thofe of any other,country.
he remains of ancient Athens, in particular, formerly the chofen feat
bf the arts, have attraéted the attentyon of many travellers, and have been
peatedly defcribed. A venerable monument of antiquity, the church
cyt, Medicated to the divine wifdom, or oo Sancta Sophia, by the emperor
+ , Juttinian,
of Othman,
allipoli, and
uered, and
s the fultan
zaries, cOme
eir infancy.
Nicopoli, inf
rht near Ane
216 TURKEY IN EUROPE.
Juftinian, in the fixth centary, has been fortunately preferved, by being
converted into a mofque. ‘T'he interior is adorned with 4 profution of
marble coluynns, of various beautiful defcriptions, the purple {potted
Phrygian, the Spartan green, the red and white Carian, the African of
a fafiron colour, and many other kinds, The other antiquities of Con
ftantinople and European Turkey, would occupy many pages in the bans
enumeration. Suffice it here to obferve that the French have recent]
difcovered the remains of the ancient fea-port belonging to Sparta, Si
a barren promontory, which projects from the fouth of the Morea; and
that the antiquities and geography of that part now ftyled Albania, ‘ill
prefent a field of refearch to the enterprifing traveller.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. —Government.— Laws.— Population. — Colonies.— Army.— Navy,
— Revenues. —Political Importance and Relations.
RELIGION.] fl fae religion of the Turks is the Mahometan; but]
of their fubjeéts, in this divifion of the empire, it
is probable that two thirds are Greek Chriftians, The religion of
Mahomet has been recently cleared from many erroneous reprefentations;
but its pernicious effets are fufficiently vifible in the deftruGtion of art
and indaftry, wherever it has made its appearance. The exclufive
attachment to the Koran, the rigid fanaticifm, and the contempt fo
profane knowledge, confpire with the devout hatred againft all unbe
lievers to prevent any intercourfe with other fects, and thus to ered @
barrier again{ft every branch of fcience and induftry. While the Ma
hometans regard all other nations as dogs, (to ufe their own expreffion,
jt is no wonder that they themfelves fhould fink into an ignorance and
apathy truly brutal. The mufti, or Mahometan pontiff prefides af
Conftantinople ; but .his power has feldom interfered with the civj
government. Next to him in rank are the mouhlahs, who, though
efteemed dignitaries of the church, are in faét rather doétors of th
law, while the Koran is alfo a code of civil obfervance. From th
mouhlahs are feleCted the inferior muftis or judges throughout the em
pire, and the cadilefquiers, or chief juftices.
The next clafs of divines are the imaums, or parifh priefts, who perfor
the fervice of the mofques, while the cadis are judges annually appointe
to adminifter juftice in the towns and villages, being themfelves to be rg
garded as churchmen, who, like the moulahs, have directed their chi
attention to the juridical part of the Koran.
From this brief view it will be obferved, that the ecclefiaftical orde
of muftis and imaums fomewhat refemble the Chriflian bifhops and p
rochial clergy 5 while the'other diftinGions arife from the fingularity¢
both religion and laws being united in the Koran, fo that a lawyer
judge mutt at the fame time be a fkilful divine. i
The Turks have alfo their monks, ftyled dervifhes of four varic
orders and inititutions, dedicated by, folemn vows to religious office
public prayer, and preaching,
The Greeks, along with their faith, retain their priefts, bifhops, arc
bifhops, and patriarchs ; but their church is in the lait flate of degra
: lo
.
tion, and ‘it
however’, it
tion and avs
by idle cere
gofpel.
GOVERNM
tridly fubjec
religion, raif
traveller pron
itappears th.
focracy, whi
ifurrections |
quthoritv.
The Turki
Koran; but
high reputati
commentaries
empire is chie
thele comment
fience becam:
tothe priefthe
PoPpULATIO
§,000,000 of
fquare miles,
bable that ,thi
that thefe regi
adthat the po
altriking defe
ARMY AND
particular con
fources fall und
there are abou
tfmany pafhas
by fucceffive
through whict
enmity $ more
REVENUES.
atabout 7,000
This revenue ig
and from the 4
amounting to al
The fultan is
which, when c
be found of aj
fell into the h
petted from tl]
Chriftians.
POLITICAL 1
rapid decline o
political import
European poli
alarmed by the
alliance with 'T
tan powers, "
prudence of th
by being
fution of
{potted
frican of
of Con.
the bare
recently
arta, near
reas and
ania, {till
ty ——Navy, &
etans but
empire, it
religion of
efentations;
Ction of art
ie exclufive
ontempt fo
ft all unbe
s to ered gi
hile the Ma
expreffion,}
norance and
prefides a
th the civ
ho, though
Ctors of th
From th
out the em
who perfor
ly appointe
ves to be ré
d their chit
aftical orde
fhops and p
fingularity ¢
t a lawyer
four vario
gious office
ifhops, arc
of degra
{iv
TURKEY IN EUROPE.
217
fon, and its dignities openly fold by the Turks: this abomination
however, it muft be confeffed, partly arifes from the miferable ambi-
jon and avarice of the Greek ecclefiaftics, who think they can atone
by idle ceremonies for the negleé of all the invaluable morality of the
el.
ae es The fultan is a defpotic fovereign ; but he is himfelf
tridly fubject to the laws of the Koran, which, including alfo the national
rligion, raife fuch obftru&tions to his abfolute will, that ‘an intelligent
raveller pronounces many Chriftian fovereignties more defpotic. Hence
it appears that the power of the monarch is balanced bya religious ari-
focracy, Which, together with the mutinies of the Janizaries and the
iwrections of the provincial pachas, has greatly weakened the fovereign
aithoritv.
the T'urkifh laws, as has been already mentioned, are contained in the.
Koran; but to fupply the defects of this work, fucceffive moulahs of
tigh reputation, uting the Koran as a kind of text, have conftructed
wmmentaries which have acquired the force of laws. The Turkifh
mpire is chiefly guided by thofe .f Abou Hanife. Asa due fkill in
thele commentaries requires confiderable ftudy, ecclefiaftics verfed in this
fience became in fome degree a diftin& body from thofe merely dedicated
to the prielthood.
PopuLAtion.] Turkey in Europe been computed to contain
8000,000 of inhabitants; and the extent being fuppofed 182,560
fquare miles, the allotment will be 43 to the mile fquare. ‘It is pro-
hable that this number rather exceeds the truth, when it is confidered
that thefe regions are interfeéted by many mountainous and barren traéts,
adthat the population even of the beft provinces impreffes travellers with
aitriking defect.
Anmy AND NAVy.] The Turkifh army and navy may deferve more
particular confideration under the head of Afiatic Turkey, as the chief.
fources fall under that divifion, It may here be briefly remarked that
there are about 30 fhips of the line; while the army, a the defe&tion
ofmany pathas, can fearcely exceed 150,000, ill difciplined, and difpirited
by fucceffive difafters : and more deftructive to their own provinces,
through which they muft pafs, than to any ftate with which they are at
enmity ; more terrible to their friends than to their foes.
Revenues. ] The revenues of the whole Turkifh empire are computed
atabout 7,000,000 fterling, while the ufual expence does not exceed five.
This revenue is partly derived from the capitation tax on unbelievers,
and from the zecchat or cuftoms; but principally from the tax on land,
amounting to about fix fhillings an acre, and which is called the jsizie.
The fultan is alfo fuppofed to poffefs a confiderable private treature ;
which, when called forth by the exigencies of the itate, will probably
be found of as {mall account as the treafures of fimilar fame which
fll into the hands of the French. A more real treafure may be ex-
petted from the arbitrary exactions from the rich, particularly the
Chriftians.
PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS (1806).} The palpable and
rapid decline of the Turkifh empire has of courfe greatly impaired its
political importance. At the beginning of the fixteenth century, when
European politics began to affume fome confiftency, France, being
alarmed by the growing power of the houfe of Auttria, entered into an.
alliance with Turkey, the repeated fubjeét of murmur among the Chrif-
tian powers. ‘This long alliance has been recently violated by the im-
prudence of the French rulers, who ehofe to attack Egypt by open
se oree,
Y ae VG
S
So
v7
(716) 672-4803
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEGSTER, N.Y. 14580
ES TS
6
hi
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
218 TURKEY IN EUROPE. |
force, without the confent of the Porte. In confequence of this vio
lation, the, Turks joined the Auftrians and Ruffians in the war apaint
France, and Ruffian fquadrons of war have paffed the facred walls of
the feraglio, and infpected as friends that weaknefs which may affit
them as enemies. Since the peace the French have regained their ufual
afcendency, and by their potent interpofition may, no doubt, if they
choofe, confiderably modify, and perhaps render null, any future con:
{piracy of Auftria and Ruffia againit the European dominions of |
Turkey. The Turks are. fenfible that a ftri&t alliance with Profia
would be of fingular advantage to them; that power can have little
intereft in fuch a treaty, but muft on the contrary rather exult to fea
the power of Ruffia exerted againft Turkey and Afia. Meanwhile
the Turks have fpared no endeavour to fecure the friendfhip of feveral
European powers, and have appointed refident ambaffadors at feveral
courts, who may be regarded as heralds of their fall; for in their prof.
* perity they difdained to fend any envoys, and regarded the ambaffadors
at the Porte as tributary flaves, fent to folicit the protection of the
fultan. Amidft the defection of feveral pafhas, in the eaft as well as in,
Europe, it is fortunate far the Ottoman empire that the power of Perfia
is dormant.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.—Language.— Literature.— Education.— Univerfities,
— Cities and Towns.—Edifices»—Roads.—Inland Navigation.— Many
Saaures and Commerce.
’ HE manners and cuftoms of the Turks
MAnwens AND customs. ] are diftinguithed by the peculiarity of
their religion from thofe of other European nations, On the birth of
a child the father himfelf gives the name, putting at the fame time a
grain of falt into his mouth*. Marriage is only a civil contraét, which
either party may break, and is managed by female mediation, the youth
feldom feeing his bride till after the ceremony. The burial-grounds are
near the highways, and {tones are often placed at the head of the graves,
with pi, | turbans denoting the fex. As they never intrench upon a
former grave, the cemeteries are very extenfive. In diet the Turks
are extremely moderate, and their meals are difpatched with great
hafte. Rice is the favourite food, and is chiefly dreffed in three ways;
the pilau, boiled with mutton or fowl; the lappa, or mere boiled rice;
and the tchorba, a kind of broth of the fame vegetable. The meal is
ufually fpread on a law wooden table, and the maiter of the houfe pro.
nounces a fhort prayer. The frugal repalt is fullowed by fruits and cold
water, which are fucceeded by hot coffee and pipes with sobacco,
The houfes of the Turks are feldom expenfive ; and the chief furniture
ig the carpet which covers the floor, with a low fofa on one fide of the
room. In regard to drefs, Tournefort + obferves that the ufe of the
turban is unhealthy, becaufe the ears are expofed, and its thicknels pre.
vents perfpiration. The thirt is of calico: and the loofe robe is fal-
* Tournefort, i. 476 vi. 79.
tened
tened By
- pocket be
European
flippers, &
ifers litt]
drefs; the
formed of
terials, wi
conceals t
fexes is hig
female cuft
of the Tun
thofe of a
the hot fea
Syria, maj
procure wl
faicy form:
> thefe are fu
favourite gr
frit se
amufement
afeafon of
Laycua
the Perfian
neither the
tongues,
npeatedty a
the defign f.
art would d
there are in
which are t
foelegant a
built of mar
chiefly theol
venient feat:
{chool found
to read and |
hops well. {
ancient poets
pared with ¢
tuation can }
and ; but 0
appoint the
+
an unequal tri
gliih miles
f this vio.
var apaintt
d walls of
may affitt
their ufual
bt, if they
future cone
minions of
ith Proffia
have little
exult to fee
Meanwhile
p of feveral
rs at feveral
1 their prof.
ambaffadors
tion of the
as well asin,
ver of Perfia
— Univerfitics.
ion. — Manu
of the Turks
neculiarity of
the birth of
e fame time a
tra&t, which
bn, the youth
-grounds are
bf the graves,
rench upon a
t the Turks
H with great
three ways;
» boiled rice;
The meal is
e houfe pro-
uits and cold
ith sobacco,
ief furniture
e fide of the
e ufe of the
hicknels pre-
robe is fal.
toned
TURKEY IN EUROPE. 219
aed by a girdle, in which is ftuck a dagger, while the tobacco box,
- pocket book, &c. are worn in the bofom. The robe is generally of
European broad-cloth, trimmed with various furs. The fhoes, or rather
fippers, are flight, and untit for much exercife. The drefs of the women
difers little from that of the men, the chief diftinGtion being the head-
refs; that of the fair fex confifting of a bonnet, like an inverted bafket,
formed of pafteboard covered with cloth of gold, or other elegant ma-
terials, with a veil extending to the eyebrows, while a fine handkerchief
conceals the under part of the face. The perfonal cleanlinefs of both
fexes is highly laudable ; but the European eye is not pleafed with the
female cuftom of ftaining the nails with a red tincture. ‘The amufements
of the Turks partake of their indolent apathy, if we except hunting and
thofe of a military defcription. To recline on an elegant carpet, or in
the hot feafon by the fide of a ftream, and {moke the delicate tobacco of
yria, may be regarded as their chief amufement. With opium they
poe what they call a kief, or placid intoxication, during which the ~
ncy forms a thoufand agreeable images, but when the dofe is too potent
- thele are fu@ceeded by irritation and ferocity. Chefs and draughts are
fivourite games $ but thofe of chance are confidered as incompatible with
frit morals. The coffee-houfes, and the baths, furnifh other fources of
amufement ; and the bairam, or feftival which follows their long lent is
afeafon of univerfal diffipation.
LancuaGe.] The Turkith language is of far inferior reputation te
the Perfian or Arabic, being a mixture of feveral dialects, and poffeffin
wither the force, elegance, nor purity of thofe two celebrated orentl
tongues. Literature is not however totally neglected, and it has been
npeatedly attempted to eftablifh a printing prefs at Conftantinople ; but
the defign failed from the interett of the copyitts, who inferred that this
ut would deprive them of their bread. A late traveller informs us that
there are in this capital feveral éuttud chans, or public libraries, among
which are thofe of St. Sophia and the Solimanie Jamafy ; but none are
fo elegant as that founded by the grand vizier Raghid, which is wholly
built of marble in the midft of a {quare court, and is filled with books,
chiefly theological, A librarian conftantly attends, and there are cons
venient feats with carpets and cufhions. In the neighbourhood is a
{hool founded by the fame vizier, in which about 100 boys are taught
toread and write. The market for books is extenfive, containing many
hops well. fupplied with oriental manufcripts. ‘The Turks have their
ancient poets, hiltorians, and divines ; but of little reputation when com.
pared with thofe of Perfia or Arabia.
Epucation.] The ftate-of education among the Turks may be con-
ctived to be very low, and ignorance is indeed a chief part of the national
charaéter. The only profeffion which requires a thadow of learning is
that of the law, which, as before explained, is intimately connected with
their theology. The celebrated doctors have difciples, who are trained
up to that department, but there feems nothing that can deferve the name
college or univerfity.
Citizs anp Towns.] The chief city of European Turkey, and of
the Turkith empire, is Conftantinople, fo called becaufe founded by Con-
lantine on the fite of the ancient Bycantian, The advantages of the
ftuation can hardly be exceeded, and the afpeét from the fea is peculiarly
rand; but on a nearer approach, the wooden hovels and narrow ftreets
fappoint the {plendid expectations of the {pe@ator. This capital forme
an unequal triangle, refembling a harp, being about twelve or fourteen
glih miles in circumference, inclofed by walls, and on two fides by
e
i ee ee eT
TURKEY IN EUROPE.
the fea and the harbour called the Golden Horn. The inhabitants are ¢o
puted at 400,000, including the four fuburbs, Galata, Pera, Topkan”
and Scutari. Of thefe 200,000 are Turks, 100,000 Greek, and the -
mainder Jews, Armenians, and Franks. The mott celebrated edifices Nh :
the Seraglio, which comprizes a large {pace crowded with various build.
ings of mean architecture; and the mofque of Sané&a Sophia. The prin.
cipal entrance of the Seraglio is ftyled Capi, or the Porte, an appellation
*220
r
which has paffed to the ‘Turkifh court.
Next in dignity and extent is the city of Adrianople, formerly the
European feat of the Turkifh dominion. This city which ftands about
140 Britifh miles to the N.W. of Conftantinople, was founded by the
emperor Hadrian on the fite of the ancient Oreftias. It is wathed by the
Hebrus, now the Maritz, which here receives two tributary ftreams*
This fecond city of European Turkey 4s of a circular form, and at
preYent unfortified. Many of the houfes are refpedtable, but the ftreets
are narrow and indirect. The feraglio is in a pleafant fituation, feparated
from the city by the river Arda, and commanding an extenfive view of
the country, which is fertile, and remarkable for excellent vines. Several
of the mofques are of celebrated fplendour, and the commerce of the
city by the river is not inconfiderable.
. Filibe, or.Filipopoli, is meanly built, without fortifications, or one
good ftreet ; the fituation being é low and moift that the mud is fome.
times two feet deep, and ftones like pofts are fet up to facilitate the pro.
grefs of foot paflengers. Yet it is a city of confiderable fize.
The city of Sofia, fituated in a low country N.W. from Adrianople
is of confiderable trade, but meanly built ; the inhabitants are computed
at 70,000. ©
Silittria in Bulgaria, on the river Danube, is computed to contain
60,000 fouls; while Buchareft, the chief city of Walachia, is eftimated
at the fame number ; but Jaffy, the leading town of Moldavia, and Bender
of Beffarabia, are only eitimated each at 10 or 12,000.
Belgrade, the capital of Servia, repeatedly difputed between the Auf.
trians and Turks, is now deftitute of fortifications, but is fuppofed to
retain about 25,000 inhabitants. Banjaluka in Bofnia is alfo a confider.
able town, fuppofed to contain 18,000 fouls.
In the more fouthern provinces mutt firft be named Saloriica, com.
puted at 60,000, a city of confiderable commerce, feated on a noble
gulph of the Archipelago. About 80 Britith miles to the fouth is La.
riffa, an inland town, but fuppofed to contain 25,000 fouls. Atini, the
ancient Athens, is of {mall population ; and this region of claffical cities
now {carcely prefents another town worthy of commemoration in general
geography.
piFices. | Exclufive of the feraglios and royal palaces, which them.
felves poffefs little claim to architeétural grandeur or beauty, the chief
edifices in Turkey are the mofques and caravanferas. The mot {plendid
mofques are thofe of the capital and Adrianople, and are generally kept
in éxcellent repair, as the church poffeffes ample revenues for that pur.
pofe, and the intereft and honour of the clergy are promoted by pre.
jerviug their {plendour. The caravanferas, on tht contrary, are often
neglected. Thefe buildings are generally in the form of a {quare, in-
clofing acourt, the upper chambers being. deftined for travellers, and the
lower for horfes and camels, They are often founded by legacies of
the opulent; but the truftees, having no perfonal intercit, generally
# Bufching, iii, 940, ,
fquander
m Europe is rq
fquander
uleful edif
to fall into
MANUF.
of Turkey
is called tl
Afiatic tho
of this wor
from Euroy
few other
currants, fi
Climate and
. —Lakes.-
Mineral F
CLIMATE A
in general, ;
who was ban
plaints on th
the feafons |
of thofe enc
climate of
now little in
mountainous,
Walachia th
mountainous
partake of t
dus of Mad
climate retain
FAcE oF
licious plains
a plain co
fent many lev
lige and beg
gulphs of the
country,
SoiL AND
parts produci
nce of rice
neglected byt
thete fway, ‘cg
Rivers,
the Danube,
Bannat, a fpac
team for m
are come
lophana,
id the re.
lifices are |
us build.
The prin.
ppdlation
merly the
nds about
led by the
hed by the
ftreams *,
my, and at
the ftreets
» feparated
ive view of
3. Several
erce of the
ons, OF one
ud is fome.
ate the pro.
‘Addrianople
re computed
| to contain
is eftimated
and Bender
en the Auf.
f{uppofed to
b a confider.
oriica, com.
on a noble
fouth is La
Atini, the
laffical cities
on in general
which them-
y» the chief
oft {plendid
enerally kept
for that pur
bted by pre
ry, are often
a {quare, in-
lers, and the
legacies of
it, generally
Faquandee
TURKEY IN EUROPE. 22%
fquander of alienate ‘the funds allotted for their fupport, fo that thefe
yleful edifices, fome of which boaft fuperior elegance, are permitted
to fallinto fhameful decay. .
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.] The manufaétu::s and commerce
of Turkey in Europe are chiefly in the hands of foreigners ; but as what
ig called the Levant trade, almoft entirely centers in Smyrna and the
Afiatic fhore, this fubjec will be more properly defcribed in that part
of this work which planet to Afia. The native manufactures exported
from European Turkey are inconfiderable, being chiefly carpets, and a
few other articles; but the rude pfoduéts are far more numerous, as
qurrants, figs, faffron, ftatuary marble from Paros, filk, and drugs.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL -GEOGRAPHY.
Chmate and Seafons.——Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers.
. —Lakes.— Mountains. —Forefts. —Botany.—Zoology.— Mineralogy. —
Mineral Waters. —Natural Curiofities. +
. HE extenfive regions comprifed within
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. J a the limits of European Turkey enjoy,
in general, a delicious climate, pure air, and regular feafons. Ovid,
who was banifhed to modern Bulgaria, has written many elegiac com.
phints on the feverity of the clime ; and it feems an undoubted fact that
the feafons have become more genial fince Europe has been ftripped
of thofe enormous forefts, which diffufed humidity and cold. The
climate of Moldavia, which Ovid would have painted like Lapland, is
now little inferior to that of Hungary, though the weftern part be
mountainous, and the eaftern prefent many uncultivated deferts. In
Walachia the air is fo temperate that vines ar} melons profper. In the
mountainous parts of the more fouthern diitricts the temperature muft
partake of the cold, univerfal in fuch elevated regions; but the pro-
duéts of Macedonia and Greéce, rice, vines, and olives, fhew that the
climate retains its ancient praife.
Face OF THE CoUNTRY.] The general appearance of Turkey in
Europe is rather mountainous, but abundantly interfperfed with de-
@ licious plains and vales; and to the N.W. of Conftantinople there
isa plain country of vatt extent, while the fhores.of the Euxine pre-
fent many level deferts. Befides the grand ftream of the Danube many
huge and beautiful rivers interfec&t thefe provinces, and the numerous
guiphs of the Archipelago and Mediterranean diverfify and enrich the
country,
SoiL AND AGRICULTURF.] The foil is generally fertile, the northern
parts producing wheat and rich pafture, the middle and fouthern abun-
dance of rice. But agriculture, like every other art and fcience, is
neglected by the Turks; and that foil mutt be truly fertile which, under
ther fway, can fupport its inhabitants.
Rivers.] Among the rivers of European Turkey mutt firft be named
the Danube, which from Belgrade to Orfova divides Servia from the
Bannat, a fpace of near 100 miles; and afterwards becomes a Turkith
team for more than 400, being in fome places a mile in breadth, and
prefenting;
223 TURKEY IN EUROPE.
prefenting, if poffeffed by an induftrious people, all the advantages of
Mediterranean fea. :
Next perhaps in importance, though very inferior, is the Maritz
ancient Hebrus, which rifing in a chain of mountains anciently called
Hemus, and running towards the E. and S., falls into the fEgean {
after a courfe of about 250 miles. The fame fea at the gulph of Salonica
receives the Vardari, the ancient Auxius, which rifing in Mount Scandi :
a weltern branch of the fame chain, purfues a S.E. courfe of about
200 miles,
Two other rivers of fimilar confequence flow into the Danube. ‘The |
Efker, the ancient Oefkus, rifes near the fource of the Maritz, but .
courfe little exceeds 120 miles; while the Morava, the ancient Mar
; ; : Us,
runsabout 200. The Drin, another confiderable river, rifes to the north
of Albania, and falls into the Save.
Many other ftreams of claflical name pervade thefe regions; but the
often derive their fole importance from their hiftorical and poetical
reputation. -
Laxes.] Budzac and Walachia contain fome lakes of confiderable
extent, as thofe round If{mail, and that to the E. of Surza, which com.
municates with the Danube, or forms a part of that river. Nor are A}.
bania and the fouthern provinces wholly deftitute of lakes, but rather of
claffical fame than of geographical importance.
Mownrains. ] The chains of mountains are numerous and extenfive,
To the W. of Moldavia and the Buckovine runs N. and N.W. for about
200 miles part of the grand Carpathian chain, anciently called the Baf.
tarnic Alps, from the Baftarne, an extenfive nation, partly of Gothic
and partly of Sarmatic origin. The molt fouthern branch of this grand
chain, tending S.W. for more than 200 miles, forms the N. nd W. boun.
dary of Walachia.
On the S. of the Danube appears the grand range of the Hemus, which
Ptolemy reprefents as running from the S.W. to the N.E., while modern
obfervations indicate the oppolite direction; but the recent maps of thefe
regions are {till very imperfect. However this be, the chain of the Hamus
is defervedly celebrated by the ancients, being of great elevation and extent,
as appears frm the numerous and large rivers which devolve from its fides,
The middle parts of this chain were by the ancients called Scomius and
Orbelus, while the Scardus may be contidered as its farthe!t branch on the
weit. It we place the farthelt eaftern point of the Hemus at Emineh,
and thence extend it above Filipopoli and Sofia to the 5, of Servia, we
fhall find a mountainous tract of more than 400 miles, now known
under various names, as Eminch, or Hemineh Dag, on the eaft; Bul.
kan and Samoco in the middle; Ivan on the weil; while the Defpoto
Dag branches off to the S.E., and may perhaps be the Rhodopé of the
ancients,
From the weftern extremity of the Hamus feem to branch off two other
extenfive chains; one running N.W. between Dalmatia on the W. and
Bofnia and Servia on the E., while the other pafling S. forms the moun
tains of Albania and the W. of Greece. The chain running to the 8, ha
many claffical appellations, as the Acroccraunian, Pindus, &c. The E.
and S. of Greece are alfo crouded with fmall chains of mountains and
folitary hills, fuch as Olympus, Offa, Pelius, and others. Mount Athos,
a detaghed fummit in the N.E., is of contiderable height, but has chiefly
attracted obfervation from its fingular form, fo much refembling that of
Montierrat in Spain; and from the many monatteries and churches on the
declivities of its piéturefque pinnacle,
Borayy.]
Bor!
furveyec
their nat
fpective
aud beau
excluded
of India,
Good H
of Sibert
{chool ; 1
derable d
the birth.
Europe t
trodden f
the rocks
that adorr
Theflaly,
luxuriance
generation
gleanings,
travellers ;
which lie b
ignorant.
The for
the Archip
the larch, ©
oriental pla
the beech,
which, mi
and Attica
tree, the m
the molt we
tus, the cyp
of the foil
fora, in its
that are ped
been celebra
the chief, a
wort, thiitl
vetch (fro
tus; an eleg
fragrant gu
with leathe
{craped fro
Z00LOG
tes, The j
regions ; and
Turkifh hor
deferve part
been little @
have fpiral 1
amore u
Minkrau
eld; for th
Bleed this
ntages of a
Maritz, or
ently called
fEgean fea,
of Salonica
int Scardus,
fe of about
nube. The
ritz, but its
nt Margus,
to the north
185 but they
and poetical
-confiderable
. which com.
Nor are Al.
but rather of
1d extenfive,
W., for about
Hed the Baf.
tly of Gothic
of this grand
End W. bouwn
gemus, which
while modern
maps of thefe
f the Hamus
ion and extent,
b from its fides,
Scomius and
branch on the
us at Emineh,
of Servia, we
» now known
the ealt; Bul
le the Defpoto
hodopé of the
h off two other
yn the W. and
yrms the moun
ng to the 8. his
&e. The EL
mountains and
Mount Athos,
but has chiefly
embling that 0
shurches on the
Botan’.
TURKEY IN EUROPE. 223
Borany.] While all the Chriftian countries of Europe have been
furveyed with more or lefs accuracy, either by the independent zeal of
their native naturalifts, or under the honourable patronage of their re-
fective governments, the Turkifh empire, containing the moft celebrated
aud beautiful provinces on the face of the earth, has been almoft wholly
excluded from the refearches of modern botanifts. The diftant regions
of India, Japan, and Auftralafia, the fultry defarts beyond the Cape of
Good Hope, the peftilential {wamps of America, and the for!orn expanfe
of Siberia, have been penetrated by the indefatigable zeal of the Linnzan
fchool; their animals, minerals, and vegetables, have been in a confi-
derable degree defcribed and arranged; while the cradle of civilization,
the birth-place of thofe arts and fciences that have raifed the nations of
Europe to fo proud an elevation above the reft of the world, has been
trodden for ages paft by barbarian feet. The vegetable tribes that clothe
the rocks of the Crétan Ida, and fhade the fummits of Athos and Oeta,
tht adorn with their varied tints the vale of Tempé and the plains of
Theflaly, that bafk on the funny fhores®f the /Egean, or rife in ftately
Jusuriance on the banks of the majeftic Danube, fucceed to each other,
neration after generation, unknown and oa ky A few hafty
gleanings, chiefly from the maritime parts, have been brought home by
travellers; but of the botany of the interior, efpecially of thofe provinces
which lie between the Danube and the Archipelago, we are almoft wholly
jnorant. ¢ .
The forefts of.Greece, the Greek iflands, and the provinces bordering
the Archipelago to the north, confift of the common and yew-leaved fir, ©
the larch, the cedar, the ilex, the kermes oak, the common oak, the
oriental plane-tree, the maple, the fycamore, the walnut, the chefnut, and
the beech. The principal fruit-trees are the olive, confiderable forefts of
which, mixed with the broad-leaved myrtle, adorn the fhores of Crete
ad Atticas the orange, the fig, the vine, the piftachia tree, the maftich
tree, the mulberry, and the pomegranate. Of the fhrubs and fmaller trees
the moft worthy of notice are the bay-tree, the laurel, two kinds of arbu-
tus, the cyprefs, the oleander, and the caper bufh. A large proportion
of the foil in Greece and the Greck iflands being calcareous, the Greck
M fora, in its prefent imperfect ftate, confifts for the moft part of thofe plants
that are peculiar to lime-ttone diftri€ts. The ifland of Crete has always
been celebrated for its vegetable productions, of which the following are
the chief, and all of them indicative of a calcareous foil; Cretan wound.
wort, thiltle leaved acanthus, Cretan origany, Cretan ditany, tragacénth
vetch (from which the gum of this name is procured), and ladanum cif-
tus; an elegant fhrub, from the leaves and tender ftalks of which the
fragrant gum ladanon exudes; this is colleéted by whipping the plants
with leathern thongs, to which the gum adhcres, and off which. it is
{raped from time to time.
Zoo.ocy.] The zoology of European Turkey prefents few peculiari-
ties, ‘he jackal, frequent in Africa and Afia, is not unknown in thefe
regions; and among the beafts of burden mutt be claffed the camel. The
Turkifh horfes are celebrated for fpirit and form ; and thofe of Walachia
deferve particular praife. The breeds or qualities of their cattle have
been little explained. The fheep diftinguifhed by the name of Walachian
have fpiral horns of fingular elegance; but the finenefs of the fleece would
be a more ufeful diftinétion.
MingraLocy.] The mineralogy of thefe provinces is alfo a barren
field; for the indolerice and ignorance of the Parks have generally nee
gledted this branch of opuleuce ; though from the mines in the adjacent
regions
224 TURKEY IN EUROPE.
regions of Hungary and Tranfylvania, and from the ancient
would be room to expect ps mineral treafures. The gold m there
Philippi,, about 80 miles to the eaft of Saloniki, in the time of Philig ?
Macedon, produced yearly about 10,000 talents, 2,880,000, fterlin iP Ms
filver mines were found in Attica, and other quarters *, eat
_ Miverat waters. ] The mineral waters are little known or celebrat d
. and the natural curiofities in the northern parts, and around mount Hen ,
remain undefcribed. Of thofe in the fouth, the principal is the sat :
of Antiparos, one of the iflands of the Cyclades to the weft of P, :
‘The whole ifle is a rock of fine marble, about fixteen miles in hic
ference. In its fouthern part, about a mile and a half from the fea rife |
a rugged cavern, with fome ancient infcriptions. After proceeding sou
twenty paces, appears a dark and low paflage, whence the traveller, bein
provided with lights, defcends by a rope, and afterwards by ailadides
placed by the fide of deep abyfles. The path now becomes more eafy, and
conduéts to another deep precipice, which is defcended by another ladder
After much fatigue, and fome d&nger, the traveller at length arrives in the
grotto, which is fuppofed to be about goo feet from the firit openin :
Tournefort eftimates the height of the grotto at about 40 fathoms, - Th
{talactitic marble hangs front the roof, in the moft elegant and picturefque
forms ; and on the floor ‘are large mafles of ftalagmite, brownith and lef
pure, produced by the liquified ftone dropping from above. A great dif.
tinction between this grotto and others of a fimilar kind in Bnghad; and
other countries, is the purity of the material, being marble of a {nowy
whitenefs, and the fineft calcareous fpar. The marble of Paros has been
known and celebrated fince the claffical times, as the moft pure that the
Sculptor can employ ; but fome prefer that of Carrara, as of a finer and
clofer grain, and more obedient to the chiflel, the Grecian having a large
cryttalline grain, apt to flit off more largely than required.
The oth
the ancient
memorable
chief. name
that in the
explofions,
ifands thal:
Turkey.
Names. — E
gt
Nass. ] 4
bated by T'a
appellation v
fyled the rep
called fro
vord hollow,
pk are called
Ind properl
ISLANDS BELONGING TO TURKEY IN EUROPE,
The numerous iflands in the Archipelago are by geographers confidered a Bagh ry
as belonging to Europe, except a few which approach the Affiatic fhore E Be
- as Mytilene, Scio, Samos, Cos, and Rhodes. balesrce
The claffical iflands of ancient Greece have been fo repeatedly defcribed
that little more than an enumeration may fuffice. The largeft is that o
Crete or Candia, which is about 180 Britifh miles in length, by 40 as it
Britih miles
circle of Wef
miles is comp
greateft breadth. A chain of high mountains, called the White Moun Or
tains, from the fhow, pervades a great part of its length+. The in bie but
bitants are vigorous and robuft, and fond of archery. ‘This ifle abound
’ with cattle, fheep, fwine, poultry, and game, all excellent ; and the wi
is balmy and lufcious. The fiege of Candia by the Turks in the middh
of the Adatibabnith century is remarkable in modern hiftory, as having con
tinued for 24 years, 1646—1670. This ifland had before flourithed undg
the Venetians.
Next is Negropont, anciently called Eubza, about roo Britifh milesi
length by 20 in breadth, a large and important ifland, which alfo belonge
to the Venetians to a late period {.
tants were the
conteltibly a ¢
intheir marth
the north, in
Scheld. Int
wnder Charles
mingled in the
PRrocRressi
omes curio
treafe of the {
* See the Mineralogy of the Archipelago by Reineggs, in the author's Petras
vol. ii. App. ‘
+ Tournefort, i. 69, &e. :
t The ifles of Corfu, Cefalonin, and Zante, on the other fide of Greece, were, on
fall of Venice, feized by the French, but now conftitute an indeperdent republic, uv
the protedtion of Kuilia; « curious experiment op the genins of modern Greece,
* The curi
al Extracts, by:
t D'Avilte, §
unts, there
id mines of
f Philip of
erling ; and
celebrated;
int Hemus,
the grotto
t of Paras,
.in circum.
the fea, rifes
eding about
veller, being ®
by a ladder
ore eafy, and
other ladder,
arrives in the
firft opening,
thoms. » The
d picturefque
wnith and lefs
A great dif.
England; and
e of a {nowy
aros has been
pure that the
of a finer and
having a large
EUROPE.
hers confidered
Afiatic fhore,
edly defcribed
eft is that o
ny by 40 asi
> White Moun
The in
his ifle abound
; and the wit
gin the middl
, as having cor
flourifhed unde
b Britith milesi
h alfo belonge
author's Petralo
reece, were, on
dent republic, vv
1 Greetes
1
TURKEY IN EUROPE. 225
tthe other ifles are generally of a diminutive fize, and were divided by
the ancients into feparate groups, of which the Cyclades were the moft
memorable; while the Sporades approached the Afiatic fhore. Other
dief names are Lemnos, Skyro, and Andro. It muft not be omitted,
iat in the year 1707 a new ifland arofe from the fea, with violent volcanic
etplofions,. near Santorine, and about a mile in diameter *. The other
ands fhall be briefly defcribed, under their proper divifion of <\fiatic
Turkey.
HOLLAND.
CHAPTER I.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY:
Vanes. —_Extent.— Boundaries. — Divifions.—Original Population.—Pro«
grefive Geography.— Hiflorical Epochs and Antiquities.
@ ests Seven United Provinces were, in ancient times,
Mawes. ] chiefly poffeffed by the Batavi, a people highly cele-
tated by Tacitus: but the boundaries being modern, there is av ancient
gpellation which particularly denotes this country. It is commonly
tyed the republic of Holland, from the name of the chief province :
called from the German word Hobl, correfponding with the Englifh
yord hollow, and implying a concave or very low country. The peo-
kare called Dutch from the German Deut/ch, or Teutfch : but Deut/ch-
Ind properly fignifies the vaft extent of Germany itfelf, though by
the Englith reftriéted to a fmall portion ufing a diale&t of the German
e.
ExtenT.] Thefe provinces extend, from the N. of Groningen to the
futhern boundary along Auftrian Flanders and Brabant, about 150
Britith miles ; and in breadth, from what is called the North Sea to the
circle of Weftphalia, about roo Britifh miles.
niles is computed at 10,000.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. } The original population appears to have been
Celtic: but when the Romans conquered this country, the chief inhabi-
tants were the Batavi, the moft northern people of Belgic Gaul, and in-
conteftibly a German or Gothic progeny; who appear to have been fecure
intheir marfhes and iflands, till the Frifians, the next adjacent people in
ihe north, in the feventh century extended themfelves even down to the
Scheld. In the eighth century the Frifians were fubdued by the Franks
under Charles Martel ; but the Frifians and Franks may be regarded as
ningled in the population with the ancient Batavians +.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The progreffive geography of this region
becomes curious and interefting, from the fingular phenomenon of the in-
aeafe of the fea. Upon infpecting the accurate maps of the ancient and
The number of fquare
* The curious reader may find a long detail of this fingular event in Payne’s Geographi-
al Extragts, p. 252—256,
t D’Auville, Etats formé eu Europe, p. 26. ‘
middle
226 | HOLLAND.
middle raphy of Gaul by D’Anville, it will be perceived t
Rhine divided Fefelf into two area brdnches at Burwoxiun, or sat
about five miles N. W. of the Colonia Trajana, now an inconfiderable
hamlet called Koln, near Cleves. The fouthern branch joined the Meufe
at the town of Mofa, or Meuvi; while the northern paffed by Durftadt
Utrecht, and Leyden, into the ocean. From the northern branch a
led the canal of Drufus, which originally joined the Rhine to the Iffi
a river that flowed into a confiderable inland lake called Flevo, now M
fouthern portion of the Zuyder Zee. This canal of Drufus being ne.
glected, and left to the operations of nature, the Rhine joined the Iffil
with fuch force, that their conjunét waters increafed the lake of Fleyo
to a great extent ; and, inftead of a river of the fame name, which ran
for near pe Roman miles from that lake to the fea, there was opened the
wide gulph which now forms the entrance. The northern and chief
mouth of, the Rhine was, at the fame time, weakened and almoft lof by
the divifion of its waters, and even the canal of Drufus was afterwards
almoft obliterated by the depofition of mud in a low country, in the fame
manner as fome of the ancient mouths of tlie Nile have difappeared in the
Delta of Egypt. >)
The fouthern branch of the Rhine, which flowed into the eftuary of
the Meufe, as above mentioned, was anciently called Vahalis, a name re.
tained in the modern Waal; the ancient ifle of the Batavi being included
between the two branches of the Rhine, and thus extending about 109
Roman miles in length, by about 22 at the greateft breadth. The ef.
tuaries of the Meufe and the Scheld have alfo been open to great inroads
from the ocean: and the latter in particular, which apoleitly formed a
mere delta, with four or five {mall branches, now prefents the iflands of
Zealand, and the moft fouthern of thofe of Holland, divided by wide
creeks of the fea. This remarkable irruption is fuppofed to have hap.
pened at the time that the Goodwin Sands arofe. Thefe great changes
may be conceived to have made a flow and gradual progrefs: and none
of them feem fo ancient as the time of Charlemagne. Some of them
are fo recent as the fifteenth century ; for, in 1421 the ¢ftuary of the
Meufe, or Maefe, fuddenly formed a vaft lake to the S.E. of Dort, over.
yhelming 72 large villages, with 100,000 inhabitants, who perifhed in the
uge *,
By a fubfequent change the Rhine was again fubdivided ; and a chief
branch fell into the Leck, which joins the eituary of the Meufe between
Dort and Rotterdam, and muft now be aoa hy as the northern mouth
of that noble river; while the Vahalis, or Waal, continues to be the
feuthern ; both branches being loft, at leaft in name, in a comparatively
{mall ftream, the Meufe. The lefs important variations in the geogras
phy may be traced with fome precifion in the Francic hiftorians, and
other writers of the middle ages, : .
HistToricat epocus.] Among the chief hiftorical epochs may be
numbered ;: .
1. The actions of the Batavi in the Roman period, from the firlt mew
tion of that nation by Julius Ceefar.
.. % The conqueft by the Frifians, and afterwards by the Danes, and by
the Franks.
g. The countries watered by the Meufe and the Rhine wese for a long
* Cluver, 96. Guicciardini, 271. Some authors arbitrarily altign thefe changes to
violent tempefts, A.D. 86@; others to 1170. A Zealandic chronicler, quoted by the
fame author, fays that the iflands of Zealand weve tormed by violent tewpeits in the year
936, a date which feems to deferve the preference. ti
Ime
3
B opening pre
time divi
Diedric,
Ghent, v
France, ¢
(lied in
the e
Utrecht
with the «
4. Free
Flanders,
5 ae
contefted t
to Englan
and this m:
felen ftadel
fates to P
5. Holle
by marria
6. Holla
Philip II. i
». By tk
the Cape o
afterwards
rivalled the
in commer
after the
Louis XI
the fluices,
8. Willig
1688; and
land becom
continent.
g. The
began to fo
fupported b
and Hollan
and weaknel
trance of th
HOLLAND. 229
ime divided into {mall earldoms; but, in the year 923, T'heodoric, or
Piedric, brother of Herman duke of Saxony, and of Wickman earl of
Ghent, was appointed count of HMiland by Charles the Simple, king of
d that the
r Schenk,
onfiderable
the Meufe France, and the title became hereditary. ealand and Friefland were in-
‘Durftadt, cluded in the donation. The county of Gelderland on the E. was erected
branch was by the empetor Henry IV. in 1079, and became a duchy in 1339.
o the Iffil, Utrecht was fubject to its powerful prelates, who had frequent contetts
VO, NOW 3 with the earls of Holland.
s being ne- 4. Frequent contefts appear between the earls of Holland and thofe of
ed the Iffil Flanders, concerning the poffeffion of the iflands of Zealand. Philipina,
ce of Flevo daughter of William IIL. earl of Holland, was married to the prince of
_ which ran Was afterwards Edward III: of England, a princefs worthy of an
opened the heroic hufband. ‘This king afterwards contefted the earldom of Holland
n and chief , with Margaret his fifher-in law. Jacquelin the heirefs of Holland in 1417
moft loft by wedded John EV. duke of Brabant; but her uncle John of Bavaria,
» afterwards pho had refigned the bifhopric of Liege in the hopes of efpoufing her,
in the fame contefted the Rivoelfiod. A kind of anarchy following, Jacquelin went
seared in the to England, where fhe married in 1123 Humphry duke of Gloucefter ;
and this marriage being annulled by the pope, fhe wedded in 1432 Bor-
e eftuary of felen ftadtholder of Holland ; and the next year was forced to refign her
8, a name ree fates to Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy.
‘ing included g. Holland, with other large poffeffions of the houfé of Burgundy, fell
about 100 by pete to the houfe of Auttria.
th. The ef. 6. Holland and fome inferior provinces revolt from the tyranny of
a inroads Philip II. in 1566 and in 1579 formed the famous union of Utrecht. |
tly formed a 7, By the end of that century the Dutch had eftablifhed colonies at
the iflands of the Cape of Good Hope, and in the Eaft Indies; and fe:tlements were
rided by wide sterwards gained S. America. During the feventeenth century they
| to have hap.
preat changes
$3 and none
ome of them
pituary of the
bf Dort, over-
perithed in the
rivalled the Englifh in the empire of the fea; and greatly exceeded them
in commercial advantages. Their power began fomewhat to decline
after the obftinate naval confti€ts in the time of Charles II. In 1672
Louis XIV. invades Holland ; and Amfterdam is on'y faved by opening
the fluices.
8. William ftadtholder of Holland afcends the throne of England
1698; and a ftricter intercourfe prevails between the countries, Hol-
land becoming the grand channel of the commerce of England with the
continent. ;
g. The ftadtholderate declared hereditary 1747. The war in 1756
opening great connexions between Ffolland and France, a French party
hs and a chief
eufe between
orthern mouth
ues to be the
comparatively
in the geogra.
hiftorians, and
fupported by the Englifh. In 1780 a war arofe between Great Britain
and Holland, which clofed iw 1784, after expofing to Europe the decline
and weaknefs of the United Provinces, {till farther difplayed by the en-
trance of the duke of Brunfwic in 1788, who may be faid to have fubdued
pochs may bt i them without a blow.
10. The Dutch having joined the coalition againft the French, their
the firit mem HA country fell a prey to the invaders during the hard froft of the winter
1794-5 $ aud the ftadtholder took refuge in England in 1795. Though
Danes, and by HM sfeparate government continued, yet the United Provinces muft becon-
fidered as fubjeét to France, which intends to incorporate the parts S.
prese for a long : _— The Dutch fleet has fince been nearly annihilated by the
n ’
thefe on Ls nrrqurries.] The.aucient monuments of the United Provinces are
tr ain the yer a ft from being numerous or interefting. The chief remain of the Roman
ave period is the ruined tower near Catwick, about fix wiles N.W. from
time Qa Leyden,
began to form in the country, which oppofed the ftadtholder, who was:
I IIE nr naa a_csauistummeciememmnmetim satiate emma natammnemeie een in a
_— ee - a peor TO hoy meg Aaah nn eeemeet ‘ . . — —
HOLLAND.
228
Leyden, at the ancient mouth of the Rhine. In the middle of Le de
upon an artificial hill, ftands a round tower, fabled to have been Dui
by Hengiit who firlt led the Saxong s» England. Among the antiquj
ties of the two middle ages may be particularly named the hive of
Utrecht, with a tower of great height, commanding as it were a map of
' the furrounding country, and worthy of the great power of the ancient
bifhops of that fee.
CHAPTER II.
‘ POLITICAL GEQGRAPHY.
Religion. —LEcclefiahical Geography.—- Government. Laws.— Population,
Colonics. —Army.—Navy.—Reveriues.— Political Importance and Ry.
dations.
HE proteftant religion, in the Calviniftic form, pre.
RELIGION. ] T wails throvgi the United Provinces. The Gites a
Holland, in 1583, propofed that no other form of worthip fhould be:
tolerated ; but this refolution was wifely rejected ; and every religion ig
permitted, on condition that it do not oppofe the fundamental laws, or
teach any dottrines fubverfive of the ftate: yet employments of any con.
fequence can only be filled by proteftants *.
EccLestastic GEOGRAPHY. ] The ecclefiaftical perfons are confidered
as divided into four ranks, profeffors at univerfities, preachers, elders, and
deacons: and the government of the church is adminiftered by confiftories,
claffes, and fynods. ‘The confiftory is the lowelt court, commonly con.
fifting of the clergy and elders of a particular town, while a clafs confitts
of deputies from feveral, and is commonly affembled three times in the
year, a part of its duty being to vifit the churches, and watch over the
condu& of the clergy. The fynods are either provincial or national; the
firft being affembled every year, while the national fynod is only fum.
moned on the moft important occafions, when effential’ doétrines are to
be difcuffed ; and the Jaft was that of Dort, 1618.
There are, befides numerous Walloon churches, fcattered through the
provinces, who hold a kind of 'fynod twice a year, compofed of deputies
from their own fect. The Roman catholics are fuppofed to have 350
churches, ferved by 400 prietts, exclufive of fome in the conquered tertie
tory. The chief other fects are the Lutherans, the Remonttrants, or
Arminians, Baptifts and Jews, and a few Quakers.
CovekNMENT.] The United Provinces were compofed of feven ree
ublics, each retaining its own ftates, confilting of nobles and burgeffes,
he provincial flates fent deputies ‘to the ftates-zeneral, who uled to
affemble in a {mall room at the Hague, enjoying the right of peace and
war, appointing and receiving ambafladors, naming the greffier, or fe
cretary of ftate, ang all the ttaff officers+. The ftadtholder was origi.
nally a kind of diétator, appointed from the neceflity of the times, to
condu& the emancipation of the ftate. The neceflity having vanifhed,
this office became of dubious authority, till William Tr. in 1672, pro
cured it to be declared hereditary. Asa he died without childsen, the
fates feized this power, till 1747, when the French penetrating inte
+ thid, tiv, P 40, &e,
-# Bufching, xiv. part iis pe 26+
: . Dutch
Dutch Fla
ereditary,
ous provinc
French em
rated wit
PoPpULA’
recently cot
miles joel
The popula
CoLONIE:
maritime po
ftlements
in Ceylon, 1
the Cape of
fillen into tk
{dered as ne
Army. ]
corporated
forty thips o
difappeared.
REVENUE
but was grrea
was comput
annually rece
POLITICA!
tions of the
thofe of Fra
Manners and
—Cities a
and Comm,
MANNERS A
obfervable i
fihermen diff
trat with the
always moift
warmth and
ment; and t
from the fam
tuous ftrengt
was chiefly re
the vulgar w
But the latte
feeling, Th
the days of R
prefent hour,
of loving mo
’ Leyden,
een built
e antiqui.
church of
> @ map of
he ancient
opulation.—
cé and Rea
form, pre.
1e ftates of
D Pools be
y religion is
tal laws, or
of any cone
e confidered
» elders, and
confiftories,
nmonly con
clafs confitts
times in the
tch over the
national; the
is only fume
rines are to
through the
d of deputies
to have 350
hquered terrie
onftrants, or
of feven ree
nd burgelles,
who uied to
of peace and
effier, or fe
ler was origi+
the times, to
ing vanithed,
n 1672, pro.
childsen, the
netrating inte
40, &e.
Dutch
HOLLAND. 229
Dutch Flanders, the rank was reftored to William IV. and again became
jreditary, though in recent times frequently contefted. T'hefe induftri-
qus provinces were recently erected into a kingdom and affigned by the
reach emperor to his brother Louis; but they have fince been incor-
rated with France. i ;
PopuLATION.] The ‘population of the United Provinces has been
ecently computed at 2,758,632, and the extent of the territory in fquare
niles being fuppofed 10,000, there will be 275 for each mile fquure.
The ooplatidn of Holland, the chief province, is calculated at 980,000.
CotonrEs.] The Dutch, being, for a confiderable time, the chief
maritime power in Europe, their colonies were numerous 3 befides fome
fttlements on the goaft of Hindooftan, and an important eftablifhment
Ceylon, they held, and {till retain Batavia in the ifland of Java; but
the Cape of Good Hope, and other confiderable eftablifhments, have
fllen into the hands of the Englifh, and the Dutch colonies may be con-
{dered as nearly annihilated. .
Army. ] The army was computed at about 36,000; but it is now in-
corporated with that of France. The navy, which ufed to confilt of
forty ee the line, has by the events of the laft war almoft totally
ifappeared.
: : Laenet The revenue was about three millions ‘and a half fterling,
but was greatly exceeded by the expenditure; fo.that the national debt
was computed at about 130,000,000l, fterling : but 2,800,000l. ‘were
anually received as the intereft of loans to foreign powers.
PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE, &c.] The political importance and rela-
tons of the United Provinces are at prefent completely immerged in
thofe of France,
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cufloms.— Language.—Literature.—E ducation.— Univerfities.
—Cities and Towns. — Edifices.—Inland Navigation. — Manufactures
and Commerce. .
STRANGER vifiting Holland is
Haxiens. AND dyaroyn. A furprized at the axinenns cleanlinefs
obfervable in the houfes and {ftreets; even hamlets inhabited by poor
fihermen difplaying a neatnefs and frefhnefs, which forms a ftriking con-
traft with the fqualid appearance of the German villages. (The air being
aways moift, and commonly cold, the Dutch drefs is calculated for
warmth and not for elegance. The people are of a phlegmatic tempcra-
ment; and their courage at fea is rather obftinacy than ardour; while
from the fame caufe thgir labour is rather flow perfeverance, than impe-’
tuous ftrength like that of the Englifh. In former times their knowledge
was chiefly reftri€ted to two channels; affairs of flate, on jwhich even
the vulgar would converfe with propriety; and the arts of getting money.
But the latter at length fupplanted every noblé thought and generous
feeling. This ftriking charaéteriftic has impreffed every {pectator, from
the days of Ray the naturalift, who vifited Holland in 1663, even to the
prefent hour. A late amiable traveller obferves that ‘the infatuation
of loving money, not as a mean but as an end, is paramount in the mind
of
ee ee A UID SABE RN YN TE NITIES ety LN EO EN AGE OE RESTRIC TRL LOLOL LEIDEN GEOR CTT atc &
= : : * y;
HOLLAND.
of almoft every Dutchman, whatever may be his other difpofition and
qualities ; the addiction to it is fervent, inveterate, invincible, and nj.
verfal from youth to the feebleit old age *.”” '
The Dutch are commonly low in ftature, and the women are taller
than the men. Their drefs is little affe€ted by fafhion. The opulent
merchants delight in their villas, thickly planted among the numerous
canals; and the {mallnefs of the gardens was. compenfated by the rich.
nefs of the miniature fele€tion, in which perhaps one tulip root might
coft fifty guineas. In the winter, fkating is a favourite amufement
and the canals are crowded with all ranks, from the fenator to the milk.
maid with her pail, and the peafant with his eggs. But the chief
amufements, in fo moilt a climate, .are under the fhelter of the domettic
roof, in large and expenfive colle€tions of paintings and prints, which
alfo have become an article of commerce and avarice.
Lanouace.] The Dutch language is a dialect of the German; and
the Lord’s Prayer runs in the following terms ;
Onfe Vader die ducr xigt in de Hemelen, Uwen Naem word gheheylight
U Rijcke Bome. Uwen Wille ghefchiede 7° Arden, gelijck in den Hemel,
Ouf> dagelijckt Broodt gheeft ons beden. ude vergheeft ons oufe Schulden
ghelijck wy oock oufe Schuldenaren vergeven. Eude en leyt ons niet in Ver,
foeckinge. Maer verloft ons vanden Boofen. Amen,
Literature. ] The literature of the Seven United Provinces is more
ref{pectable than that of the other Netherlands. Nct to mention the an.
cient chronicle of the church of Utrecht, and other ecclefiaftical produc.
tions of the middle ages, the great Erafmus, the reftorer of letters in
Wettern Europe, was born at Rotterdam in 1467, Johannes Secundus,
or Hands de Twede, one of the moft elegant of modern Latin poets, was a
native of the Hague, as the renowned Grctius was of Delft. Boerhaave,
the celebrated phyfician, was born at Voorhoor near Leyden. Dort Pro»
duced Paul Merula, a diftinguifhed antiquary, who at the beginning of
the feventeenth century firft difcriminated the real origins of European
nations, Adrian Junius, or Yung, who explored the antiquities of his na.
tive country, was of Hoorn on the Zuyder Zee. Among other eminent
names may be mentioned Meurfius of Laufden, Doufa of Leyden, Hein.
fiis of Ghent, and the younger Voffius. Hoogeveen of Leyden died in
1794) after having acquired the reputation of being the fir Greek
{fcholar in Europe. ;
Epvcation, &c.] The mode of education purfued in thefe provinces
{eems to have been greatly inferior to that ufed in Scotland, a country
enjoying an eccleafittic government fomewhat fimilar. The Dutch
youths being chiefly allotted to a fea-faring life, there was not indeed
CppaTeesy for numerous parochial fchools, and confequent diffufion
of common knowledge. The moft celebrated Latin fchools were at
Rotterdam, Breda, Middleburg, Groningen, &e. The univerfities are
five ; Leyden, Utrecht, Harderwyck. Franecker, end Groningen ; with
two inferior colleges at Amfterdam and Deventer, There is an academy
of {ciences at Haarlem.
Citizs aNp Towns.) Amfterdam, the chief city of Holland, upon the
{mall river Ambftel, is firft mentioned in the thirteenth century ; but inthe
fourteenth was reckoned among the commercial towns of Europe. About
the middle of the feventeenth century, during the higheft profperity of
the republic, it was enlarged by aboutjone half, The haven is not dif-
tinguithed by natural advantages, but has been improved and fecured by
© Mis, Radcliffe, i. 98.
230
ast §
= arts and th
ment. Th
‘generally nz
mon air of I
ae the ftate
changes and
py hules
interior Of t
the 5. there
and groves :
Leyden |
$0,000 foul:
tinguifhed b
qumber of {
number has
and gardens
daily interco
fiir is {till m
Next is R
S isanoble qu:
and the grea
even towns ;
oily diftingy
the well kno
Haarlem -
is fortified b
jn the provin
able for pow
the Dutch fe
printing, {ta
the queftion
The Hag
puted at po
to the differe
Stadtholder.
{ix chairs, fo
tural hiftory
books and
and senna
Middlebun
it has a large
and countefld
lates, but ¢
country ac
ate fuppofed
inferior citieg
poffeffions, fi
alter repeate
are vait {tone
INLAND N
vinces would
the advantag}
fition and
and uni.
are taller
€ opulent
numerous
the rich.
oot might
mufement,
the milk.
the chief
e domeftic
ts» which
man; and |
ghebeylight, |
den Hemel,
fe Schulden
iet in V. ee
res is more
on the an.
al produc.
f letters in
} Secundus,
poets, was a
Boerhaave,
Dort pro,
ginning of
European
8 of his na.
her eminent
‘den, Hein.
den died in
firft Greek
fe provinces
, a country
The Dutch
s not indeed
nt diffufion
ols were at
verfities are
ngen ; with
an academy
d, upon the
3 but inthe
ype. About
rofperity of
is not dif.
fegured by
arty
B isanoble quay, with houfes as
HOLLAND. 231
Hat; and the wide foreft of mafts impreffed every tiaveller with amazes
nent. The population is computed at about 212,000. - The ftreets are
generally narrow, and the canals feculent. The houfes have the come
mon air of neatnefs peculiar to thofe of the Dutch. The chief edifices
are the ftate-houfe, founded on piles at an immenfe expence; the exe
change, and the pott-office ; but fome ftreets ee the chief canals dif.
hy houtes of uniform grandeur. Some agreeable walks occur in the
Feriot of the city ; but the environs are chiefly vifited by water ; yet to
the S. there is an agreeable road to Ouderkirk through pleafant gardens
roves *,
een is efteemed the next city in population, containing about
9,000 fouls. It is the Lugdunum Batavorum of antiquity, and is difs
tnguifhed by its univerfity. Here the ancient Rhine almoft expirés in a
gumber of {mall channels, which are paiied by fo many bridges, that the
jumber has been computed at more than one hundred. e meadows
aid gardens around Leyden are remarkably productive, and there is a
daly intercourfe by canals. with the other chief cities and provinces, The
fuir is {till much frequented; but the univerfity has declined.
Next is Rotterdam, with a population of about 48,000 people. There
hhandfome as any in the fquares in London 3
and the great length of the ftreets is characteriftic of Dutch cities, and
even towns yet they are generally narrow, and the foot pavement is
ouly ditinguithed by a clean line of bricks +. In the market place ftands
the well known ftatue of Erafmus. ;
Haarlem is computed to contain 40,000 fouls; and, like I,eyden,
isfortified by old brick walls. The great church is efteemed the largeft
jn the province of Holland ; but the celebrated organ is more remark.
able for power than fweetnefs. The houfe of Laurence Cofter, whom
the Dutch fondly affert to have been_ the inventor of the grand art of
printing, ftands near the church ; but impartial inquirers have decided
the quettion in favour of Mentz.
The Hague is only efteemed a village, though the inhabitants be come
puted at 36,000. The court, or palace, contains feveral chambers allotted
to the different branches of government, befides the apartments of the
Stadtholder. The ftatesegeneral meet in a room which contained twenty
fix chairs, for the ufual number of the members ¢. The cabinet of nae
tural hiftory has been carried to France, and probably the moft curious
books and pictures. The Hague is diftinguifhed by its pleafant fituation
and tranquil grandeur. ; ;
Middleburg in Zealand is fuppofed to contain 30,000 inhabitants; and
it hasa large town-houfe, decorated with the ftatues of the ancient earls
and countefles of Holland. It was not only the feat of the provincial
fates, but alfo of the council of Flanders, prefiding over part of that
country acquired by the Dutch. Utrecht, Delft, Dort, and Groningen,
ag fuppofed each to contain about 20,000 inhabitants; and among the
inferior cities may be named Maettricht, the moft fouthern of the Dutch
pofleffions, fituated on the river Macfe, or Meufe, and ceded to the Dutch,
alter repeated contelts, by the peace of Nimeguen 1678; in the vicinity
are vait {tone quarries fupported by numerous pillars.
INLAND NAVIGATION. ] To enumerate the canals of the United Pro.
vinces would be infinite, for they equal the roads in other countries; and
the advantage mutt be the more perceived during the interruption of mas
+ Ibid. i, 16,
bd Radcliffe, i. 168, 3 Ibid, i 4%
Q4 ritime
232 HOLLAND. -
ritime commerce, by the increafe of the inland trade with Germ
an
fouthern Netherlands, and France. Yo the
‘MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. ] The chief manufaGtures of Hol
land are linens, many of which however are made in Silefia ; pottery, et
painted tiles, efpecially at Delft ; leather, wax, {nuff, fugar, flarch
befides fameof woollen, cotton, and filk *. But the mot precious Pret
of commerce confifted in {pices and drugs, brought from the fettlements
in the Eaft Indies ; and the Dutch Eaft India company was, for a con. |
fiderable time, the greateft mercantile firm in Europe. The fifhery in th
Northern Seas, and even on their own and the Englifh coatts, was alfo
object of great commercial importance. Latterly perhaps the chief aq
vantage was derived from Holland being the grand depofit of commerce
between Great Britain and the continent, particularly Germany and
France. The inland trade with Germany, by the canals and the Rhine
is almoft the only branch which has efcaped the ravages of war. Of thie
the moft remarkable feature confifts in the vaft floats of timber, which
arrive at Dort from Andernach, and other places on the Rhine, whofe
eopious ftream received the trees of the German forefts: The length of
thefe rafts is from 700 to 1000 feet, the breadth from 50 to go: and
goo labourers direét the floating ifland, which is crowned with a village
of timber huts for their reception. The navigation is conduéted with
the itricteft regularity: and on their arrival at Dort the fale of one
raft occupies feveral months, and frequently produces more than
30,000). fterling +. The other branches of inland traffic are numerous.
and the Rhine may be faid to fupply Holland with infulae advantaces,
fecure from the deftructive inroads of maritime war, eo
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country.—Soil and Agricultures— Rivers,
—Lakes. - Mountains. —-Fore/ls. — Botany. —-Z oology.— Mineralogy.
Mineral Waters.— Natural Curiofities.
: : ‘YUMIDITY and cold are the chief
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] I chara€terillics of the climate of the
United Provinces. The general face of the country is that of a large
marth which has been drained ; the canals, and even the fea, looking pale
and difcoloured by mud; but the numerous and important cities and
towns excite admiration, and the moft dignified ideas of the wonderful
powers of induftry, which feems to have feleGted a chief feat amidft the
ateft natural difadvantages. And even among thefe marthes the eye
18 relieved by the groves, gardens, and meadows; and to the eaft of
Utrecht the woods and hills gently {well towards Germany. Yet the
eaft of Dutch Brabant is ftill disfigured by the large morafs of Peal,
extending about 30 Britifh miles in length; Over-Yflel, fo called from
its weftern boundary of the Iffel, which received the canal led by Drufus
from the Rhine, is almoft wholly compofed of enormous marhhes and
heaths ; and the morafs of Bourtang rivals that of Peal in extent. The
northern provinces of Friefland and Groningen, (parts of the ancient
Frifia which included alfo the principality of eaft Friefland now be.
@ Marthal, vol. i, 2256155, + Radcliffe, ii. 114,
longing
aging to
yhile the f
whole cow
and water {
SolL AN
he expecter
except a f
eat pred
silly thofe
cellent butt
fem to ha
3 paid tow
appear in tl
RIVERS.
the Menfe |
the Domel
called the \
nd outle
hut a {mall
river falling
3, W. of M
becomes a «
Wecht, wh
Groningen
canals befor
Lakes. ]
the fea of F
paling by Z
fea, than o
land, and in
the marfhes
ProGre
tant fembla
be denoming
BoraNy
tute of wo
he perceive
hould fear
heaths of
naceous pla
one chalk
bleak heath
tainous plar
and Scotlan
lakes, or fl
of Ben Ne
vegetables,
in the Briti
and other y
evening prit
and Weitph
ZooLoey|
peculiar, o
rmany, the
es of Hol.
ottery, and
arch, Paper,
10us branch
fettlements
. for a con.
fhery in the
was alfo an
the chief ad.
F commerce
ermany and
the Rhine,
te OF this
nber, which
hine, whofe
he length of
to go: and
ith a village
iduéted with
fale of one
more than
e numerous ;
p advantages,
re= R i VETI,
ineralogy.—
e the chief
imate of the
at of a large
looking pale
nt cities and
1e wonderful
at amidft the
fhes the eye
b the eatt of
ny. Yet the
orafs of Peal,
> called from
ed by Drufus
s marfhes and
extent. The
f the ancient
and now be.
longing
HOLLAND. - 233
paging to Pruffia,) prefent towards the S. and S.E. extenfive heaths ;
. yhile the parts towards the fea rival the morafles of Holland. Thus the
yhole country may be faid to difplay an intimate combination of land
mad water 5 and the few elevations cominonly confift of barren fand.
Sol. AND AGRICULTURE. ] The agriculture of fuch provinces cannot
pe expected to be confiderable,, the land being moftly under pafturage,
except a few crops of madder, and tobacco, which are cultivated with
eat predile&tion *, The pafturages in the north of Holland, efpe-
cially thofe of Bemfter, and in Friefland, fupply fuch quantities of ex-
gllent butter, as to become a ftaple article of commerce. ‘The cows
fem to have been originally from Holftein, and the utmoft attention
is paid to warmth and cleanlinefs, fo that even in fummer the animals
appear in the meadows clothed with ludicrous care +.
Rivers. ] The chief rivers of the United Provinces are the Rhine and
the Meufe ; the latter here receiving at its eftuary the Aa, joined with
the Domel from the S.; and from the N. that great outlet of the Rhine
called the Waal; and near 4o Britifh miles farther to the W. the fecond
grand outlet of the Rhine, called the Leck, joins the Meufe, after which
hut afmall ftream pafles by Leyden to the German ocean. The principal
river falling into the Zuyder Zee is the Iffel, which rifes:not far to the
g.W. of Muniter, and after receiving the canal of Drufus near Duifberg
becomes a confiderable ftream. On the N. of this is the finall eltuary of
Wecht, which rifes to the N. of Munfter. The rivers of Friefland and
Groningen are fo diminutive that they are moftly loft in the numerous
cna's before they join the fea.
Lakes. ] -The lakes are of {mall extent, if we except what is called
the fea of Haarlem, on the N. of which is the Y, a broad piece of water
paling by Amfterdam, rather wearing the femblance of a creck of the
fa, than of a river. There are other fmall lakes in the N. of Hol-
lind, and in Friefland and in Groningen: not to mention fome amidft
the marfhes of Over-Yffel.
PROGRESSIVE pase te Of mountains there is not the moft dif-
tant femblance ; and even the few hills towards the E. may more properly
be denominated little elevated traéts of fand.
Borany.] When it is confidered that the Batavian territory is defti.
tute of wood-lands, of mountains, and of limeftone diftricts, it will eafily
he perceived in what refpects its flora is inferior to that of Britain; we
fhould fearch in vain among the fwamps, the level meadows, or the fandy
heaths of Holland for the numerous feces of erchidex, and of papilios
naceous plants that inhabit the beech-woods of Suffex and Kent, or the
. ope chalk downs of the fouthern and midland counties ; and though the
bleak heaths of Gelder and Over-Yffel may furnifh a few.of our moun-
tainous plants ; yet thofe that dwell by the rufhing torrents of Wales
and Scotland, that fix themfelves to the rocky bottom of Our pellucid
lakes, or flourifh in the cloudy folitude of Snowden, of Skiddaw, or
of Ben Nevis, are wholly wanting in the lift of indigenous Batavian
vegetables, The only plants poffeffed by Holland which are not found
in the Britith iflands are certain aquatic plants, natives of the Rhine,
and other waters in the province of Tolland ; and campanula perficifolia,
evening primrofe, and a few more growing on the frontiers of Brabant
and Weitphalia. oe
Zoo.oGy.] In the zoology of the United Provinces there is nothing
peculiar, or worthy of remark ; the horfes are chiefly from England and
@ Marshal, i, 264, + Ipid. i. 37. ;
Flanders,
234 HOLLAND.
Flanders, the oxen from Holftein.’ The ftork is here fre uent,
unkrown in England. The fhores abound with excellent fi
turbot and foals.
MineraLocy.] Minerals are unknown, if we except the flight incifion
for peat; which the Dutch not only procure from the moraffes, but alig
from the bottoms of the river, by drag ing up the mud, which js expofed
to dry on the fhore, then cut into fimall reces and again dried for yf
No medical waters are here known; and there are hes uncommon ap.
pearances of nature, though the whole country may be deemed an se
tificial curiofity, from the number of canals, and from the vaft dykes
exested to exclude the fea.
DENMARK.
CHAPTER T.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. —E xtent.— Boundarics.— Original Population. — Progrefive Geograr
phy.—Hiftorical Epochs and Antiquities.
Names. } fis name of Denmark, implying the marches, bounda.
ries, or territories, of the Danes, is derived from. the
inhabitants who are firft mentioned by this appellation in the fixth century,
when we begin to acquire a faint idea of Scandinavia from the hiftory of
Jornandes. Murwie, anciently Norrick, or the northern kingdom, affords
a palpable and precife derivation.
Extent. ] Thefe kingdoms, which in former times have, by repeated
emigrations, changed the deftinies of a great part of Europe, and con.
tinue deeply to intereft the ftudent of hiftory, conftitute a fingular expan.
fion of territory. For from the river Elbe, in the fouth, to the northern
extremity of Danifh Lapland, and the wild environs of the river Tana,
may be computed, after er ia, the entrance of the Baltic, an extent of
not lefs than 1400 Britifh miles in length, by a medial breadth of only 150,-
Of this great length, Denmark occupies about 260 miles, while the re.
mainder | a sto Norway. Thisextent of coaft might be fuppofed to
conftitute a formidable naval power ; ‘but unfortunately the havens are
neither ‘numerous nor important, and are better adapted to the fleets of
{mall veffels which formerly ftruck Europe with difmay, than to the pomp
and magnitude of modern navigation. To the fouth the Danith province
of Holitein borders on the wide territories of Germany ; on the caf,
weft, and north, Denmark is furrounded by the fea. The eaftern limits
of Norway are chiefly indicated by a long chain of mountains, pafling
pet ween that country and Sweden.
Divisions.] The territories fubje& to the crown of Denmark are
divided inte the following provinces :
1. Jutland.
2. Ifle of Funen,
Denmark Proper 3. Ifle of Zeeland,
4 Slefwick.
, §- Holftein, a
. 6. Chriftianfand,
a ee
ee
ie ae
—
— SS
re Bawa.
ae
Ye
>—
-pV
ea
'
aoe * Aoqo7ul~
/
| (SWEDEN,.DENMARE.
/ and
s
:S
in
i:
*,
fas,
Zz
¢
e
5%
2E-..
OTT AN
pean
wee not
“h M
=
gh
t, thou
articularly
cated
cons
re
iftianfand, Le mi
18 expofed |
d fo
dom, affords
by
an extent of
of only 150.
while the re-
fuppofed to
ve havens are
the fleets of
to the pomp
nifh province
on the ealt,
eaftern limits
ht ineifiong
8, but alio
ffive Geogra.
es, bounda.
ed from. the
sth century,
ne hiftory of
e, i
ular expan.
the northern
river Tana,
,
J
S
4
QO
i
'
.. Kiel : 4
tom J ‘
ih} :
a mt
Nofv
Oniain
to have co
Welfh; ar
Jutland anc
the Cimbri
name, while
who afterv
relided in t
Anglen,
flitutes the
Laps, who
allegorical;
population
and the Not
and yellow |
England,
ProGREs
may be trac
Cherfonefe
of the Dane
of Zeeland,
adds that th
refenting: ej
"a0 vuled b
afterwards b
andthe Fra
gave a minu
pee
e geo
there tan :
nity, had be
wards arife fc
lornandes 5
ported to the
The chief
ately confide
psi:
ntal part a
2, The co
Dcandinavia i
rom the Ge
egian,
3 The Re
fliny and 'T'a
* This fpelling
tGerm, ¢, 44
1 A
Se
.
DENMARK.
f 6. Chriftianfand.
7. Aggerhuus.
! 8. Bergen.
4 g- Drontheim.
10. Norland.
11, Finmark.
12. Ifle of Iceland.
13. Ifles of Faroe *.
OntGINAL POPULATION. | The original population of Denmarkap
tohave confilted of Cimbri, or Northern Celts, the anceftors of our
Welfh; and who in particular held the Cimbric Cherfonefe, or modern
Jutland and Slefwic. On the progrefs of the Goths from the N. and E,
the Cimbri were expelled. Yet the Cherfonefe continued to retain theig -
same, while pofleffed by feven Gothic tribes, among which were the Angli,
yho afterwards | al appellation to England, and who appear to have
eided in the eaftern part of Slefwic, where there is ftill the province of
Anglen. The original poffeffors‘of Norway, which, with Sweden, con-
fitutes the ancient Scandinavia, appear to have.been the Fins and the
Laps, who were driven to the northern extremities by the Gothic invafion,
dlegorically {aid to have been conduéted by Odin the God of War. The
pulation has fince continued pure and unmixed by foreign conquefts 5
and the Norwegians ftill retain the mufcular frame, blooming countenance,
and ple hair of the Normans, fo well known in France, Italy, and
England.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY.) The progreffive geography of Denmark
may be traced with fome precifion from the firft mention of the Cimbric
Cherfonefe by aftonifhed Rome. ‘Tacitus defcribes the Suiones, anceftore
of the Danes, as conttituting ftates fituated in the fea, that is in the iflands
of Zeeland, and others which ftill form the feat of Danith power +. He
adds that they had fleets, their fhips being of a fingular form, capable of
prfenting either end as a prow ; that they had acquired wealth, and
were ruled by a monarch. The progreflive geography of Denmark may
afterwards be illuftrated from various paflages, eipecially from Jornandes,
andthe Francic hiftorians, till Adam of Bremen, in the eleventh century,
gave a minute defcription of the country, and their awn hiftorian Saxo
Grammaticus compofed his claffical work about the year 1180.
The geography of Norway, as may be expected, is more obfcure ; nor
there reaton to believe that any part, except ita moft fouthern extre-
mity, had been feen by the Roman mariners. Few materiale even after.
wards arife for the progreflive geography of this country, till the time of
ornandes ; whofe account is ncoended by the navigation of Ohter re-
ported to the great Alfred, and the defcription by Adam of Bremen.
The chief hiftorical epochs of thefe conjun& kingdoms muft be fepas
ately confidered, till their union in the fourteenth century.
HIsTORICAL EPOCHS.] 1. The molt ancient population of the conti.
tal part of Denmark by the Cimbri.
2. The conqueit by the Goths, who appear to have proceeded from
bcandinavia into the Ifles and Jutland, as the diale& differs greatly
rom the German Gothic, while it is a fifter of the Swedifh and Nor-
egian, '
3» The Roman and Franci¢ accounts of Denmark, from the,time of -
jliny and Tacitus to that of Charlemagne.
oo {pelling is nos gnly more jult, but {crves to diftingwith chem from the ifle of Ferra:
eT. C, 44, :
4 The
Nofway —
oOo
en a LTV AE I AIOE ga
. by its univerfal confequences, the eeflation of piracy and rapine, and the
OR OAT Ns ELINA, aOR eer ean eC MANES BINS HTN
.
236 DENMARK.
4. The fabulous and traditional hiftory of Denmark, which extend
from about the year of Chrift soo to the reign of Heriold, mentioned by
the Francic hiftorians in the time of Charlemagne. y
5- The conqueft of Denmark by Olaf II. king of Sweden, about the
year goo.
6. The more certain hiftory commences with Gurm, or Gormo, A.D
20, but there feems no evidence whether he fprung froma native race re
om the Swedifh or Norwegian. - Gormo is fucceeded by his fon Harald
Blaatand 945, who is followed by his fon Swein, 985, well known by his
invafion of England, where he in fome meafure ufurped the fovereignty
and died A. D. 1014. ch
7- Thereign of Canute the Great, king of Denmark, England, and
Norway. The converfion of Denmark to Chriftianity had commenced °
in the beginning of the ninth century; but Chriitianity was far from bein
univerfal there till the reign of Canute the Great, when it was followed
diffufion of mduftry and civilization.
8. The reign of Waldemar, furnamed the Great, A. D. 11 57) who
defeats the Wends, or Slavonic inhabitants of the fouthern fhores of the
Baltic in many battles, and fubdues the ifle of Rugen. Hence followed
flowly the converfion of Pomerania, and of the countries on the cat,
Waldemar is regarded asthe parent of the Danith laws.
9. The marriage of Hakon VI. king of Norway, with Margaret
daughter of Waldemar III. king of Denmark, A. D. 1363, produced
the memorable union of the three crowns of the north. On the death
of her young fon, Margaret afcended the throne of Denmark and Norway
in 1387, and that of Rieedst in 1389. Her hufband, Eric of Pome.
rania, reigned about 26 years after her death; and. was followed }
Chriftopher of Bavaria, who removed the royal refidence from Rofkild to
Copenhagen, :
10. The acceffion of the houfe of Oldenburg, in the perfon of Chrif.
tiern I., A. D. 1448. The repeated revolts of Sweden were fuppreffed
by his fucceffor John, who was crowned at Stockholm in 1497.
11. The tyrannical and unhappy reign of Chriftiern II., when Swedes
was emancipated by the efforts of Guttaf Wafe. |
12. The abolition of the Roman Catholic religion by Chriftiern III,
45373 ‘but the-Lutheran had been already introduced in 1526.
13. The reigns of Chriftiern IV. and his fucceflor Frederic ITI, who
was arp thesiaad to-fign a treaty in March 1660, by which he abandonedto
Sweden the valuable province of Scone, and other parts in the fouth of
Scandinavia, which had long remained in the pofleflion of the Danes,
together with the fertile ifland of Rugen. '
14. The memorable revolution of the 23d O&ober 1660, by which the
crown was declared abfolute and hereditary. The fubfequent events have
been little memorable.
Of the Norwegian hiftory the chief epochs may be confidered in the
following order ;
?, The original population by the Fins and Laplanders.
2. The conqueft by the Goths,
3. The redu€tion of all the petty monarchies into one kingdom by
Harald Harfagre about A. D. 910. During the conteit many difcon.
tented princes and nobles left the kingdom; and among others Gan
Hrolf, or Rollo the Walker, proceeded to France ; where, in the yea
912, the province afterwards tiyled Normandy was furrendered to him
and his warlike followers, ,
Religion Ecch
RELIGION. ]
icks are twelve
The chief {ee is
pher clerical ord
ans, The pa
urplice fees; b
ear,
Covernmen
§ been an abfo
4. The re
Chriftianity.
Red, and his
. from Norway
land, a more
by Leif, fon
in Vinland a’
was fo called
heen on the «
foundland.
5. Theinv
againft Haro!
6. Magnus
which hal bee
refuled homag
r, The H
BALD. 1266,
as fubject to.
33 an indepen
ANTIQUITI
ae chiefly whe
the ufe of the
upright ftones |
origin is perfeé
of the Iceland
ment. Monun
quaries to be D
both built of ft
appear to have
acient caltles
Colonies. —f,
tons.
DENMARK. 439
. The reign of Olaf I., when Norway and Iceland were converted to
Chritianity. Greenland had been difcovered A. D. 982, by Eric the
Red, and his attendants, from Iceland; whieh ifland was itfelf peopled
fom Norway 874—880. In the reign of Olaf I, Vinland, or Wines .
‘tand, a more fouthern part of N. America, was difcovered by Biarn, and
by Leif, fonof Eric the Red, A. D. 1003. The little colony, fettled
, extends
tioned by
about the
no, A.f), in Vinland about 1006, perifhed from intettine divifions. ‘The country
ve race, or yas {0 called from fome wild grapes or berries ; and is fuppofed to have
on Harald ben on the coaft of Labrador, or more probably the, ifland of New-
own by his foundland. er
vereignty, . Theinvafion of England by Harald III., who was flain in a battle
againtt Harold king of England, on the 25thof September, 1066.
6. vi II., inthe year 1098, fubdued the Orkneys and Hebudes,
sland, and
‘commenced ° which had been fubjeé&t to the Normans from about 850; but the earls had
from bein rfuled homage to the Norwegian kings,
a8 followed HE +, The Hebudes, or wettern iflands, were furrendered to Scotland,
ne, and the A. D. 1266, by Magnus V.; but.the Orkneys continued to be-regarded
gfubject to Norway till the year 1468. Iceland, which had exifted
a ak an independent republic, about this time became fubje& to Nore
ores of the *,
ce followed rh The final union of Norway with Denmark A. D. 1387.
on the eaft, Aytiquities:] The ancient monuments of Denmark and Norway
ae chiefly what are called Runic; though it be not clear at what period
1 Margaret the ufe of the Runic charaters extended fo fatto the north. Circles of
9 produced upright ftones are common in all the Danifh dominions ;: in Iceland their
)n the death origin is perfectly afcertained, as fome were erected even in recent times
and Norway of the Icelandic republic, being called Dombhring, or Circles of Judg-
c of Pome. nent. Monuments alfo occyr of the other forms imagined by our anti-
ollowed by quries tobe Druidic. The churches of Bergen and of Drontheim were
Rofkild to hoth built of ftone in the eleventh century. The refidences of the chiefs
€ Chit appear to have been generally conitructed of wood, for there are few
on oO Ms
ucient caftles to be found in Denmark or Norway.
e fuppreffed
97°
when Sweden
CHAPTER II.
riftiern III,
6.
ic ITI., who
abandoned to
he fouth of
the Danes,
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Rligion—Ecelefaftical Geography.— Government,—Laws.— Population.
Colonies. —Army.—Navy.— Revenue. ~ Political Importance and Rela-
tions.
by which the
t events have
, HE religion of Denmark. and Norway is the Lu.
sucrox.] siaoans There is no archbifhop ; but ‘the .bifhop-
icks are twelve, fix in Denmark, four in Norway, and two in Iceland.
The chief fee is that of Zeelaad, which yields about roool. a year ; the
pther clerical orders are provofts, or archdeacons, parith priefts, and chap-
ins, The parochial clergy are maintained by their glebes, tithes, and
urplice fees; but in Jutland fome of the livings do not exceed 2ol.a
ear,
GovernmeNtT.] Since the revolution of 1660, the Danifh government
sbeen an abfolute monarchy. ‘That revolution was produced by the
dered in the
kingdom b
any difcon
others Ganj
e, in the year
) dered to hie
© Turf, Hitt, Nor, iv) 3345 :
obftinacy
4, Th
238 DENMARK.
obflinacy of the nobility, and confequent enmity of the clergy and
who pereeiend no cate means of humbling their sdveetarios, Dargef
Laws. ] The Danith government has however been generally Condudted
with mildnefs and moderation ; and their regal ats pafs through man
councils, who carefully obferve the legal forms. The laws are chief
comprifed in the code of Chriftiern V., who reigned in the end of the
feventeenth century: ° Manners ai
Poruvation.] The pais of the Danith dominions is computed —Cities
at two millions and a hal
; thougn there feems little room to infer that it fadures
yields to that of Sweden. If we fuppofe the fquare contents to be abont
180,000 miles, there will only be 12inhabitants to the fquare mile, Noy, :
way is not fuppofed to contain more than 700,000 fouls, nor Iceland paneee
above 50,000, the former only yielding fix, the latter one to the {quare thofe of th
mile. tinue ina fi
Corontes.] Denmark poffeffes fome {mall colonies, as Tranquebar on recently de
the coaft of Coromandel, Chriftianfourg on the coaft of Guinea, a {mall inftances.
part of Greenland in America; with threc iflands in the Weft Indies, the contrar
St. Jan, St. Thomas, and St. Croix, of which the latter was purchafed few noble e
from France in 1733. rted, frank
Army, &c.] e army of this kingdom is computed at 70,000 men, Ife they fee:
of which Denmark fupplies about 40,coo, and Norway the remainder, sof a ftone
The navy, prior to the late ty ama with the Englith off Copen. fiimm. the women |
hagen, confifted of 33 fhips of the line, manned by about 11,000 feamen, collar round
and 5000 marines; but has fince been reduced by the Englith unprece. of the Scoti
dented affault, which difplayed an equal contempt of Chrittian juftice of great fear
and found policy, and only ferved to ruin our influence in the north of APLANI
Europe. region of Fi
Revanve.]} The annual revenue is computed at about one million pollefled by
and a half fterling, being fuperior to that of Sweden. Denmark contri. Jim Cape Nord,
butes 543,5541.; Norway 290,000l.; Slefwic and Holftein 300,0001,; JN rmote prov
the Weft Indian iflands 262,000l. ; the toll levied upon thips paffing the vho has pre
Sound 122,554]; Altona 3,150l. The expences of the ftate amount wurst. This
annually to about 1,050,000l.; and it is burthened with a debt of iM fet, with tha
2,600,000l *. hones, @ wid
PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS.] Denmark arid Norway {MM fouthern par
northern wild
feech Same
fame race as
the mountains
partitions inte
fun is here ab
the afternoon
ome may read
moon, when ¢
for feven week
when he affu
a confiderable
ton or rein di
fur, and a king
famon, which
mmerfed in ps
have long ceafed to be objeéts of terror to the fouthern powers, gnd cen
turies have elapfed fince any of the monarchs has been diftinguithed in
war; while the Swedes, on the contrary, have maintained their martial
fpirit. A timid policy has long united this monarchy in alliance wit
Ruffia, as a mean of fecurity againft Sweden ; but more wifdom woul
in a firm alliance with Sweden and Proffia againft the exorbitant
power of the Ruffian empire. At prefent Denmark is in ftrié alliance
with France, which has reverfed the government of Sweden.
* Buetticher’s Tables.
* Coxe, v. 9,
ft Leemius de
be Swedith Lap
CHAP.
nd burgeffes
ly condu@ed
rough many
3 are chiefly
send of the
‘is computed
infer that it
8 to be about
emile. Nor.
» nor Iceland
to the {quare
‘ranquebar on
vinea, a {mall
Welt Indies,
was purchafed
t 70,000 men,
the remainder,
ith off Copen.
1,000 feamen,
rglifh unprece.
Yhrittian. juftice
n the north of
ut one million
enmark contri.
ein 300,0001.;
ips paffing the
e ftate amount
ith a debt of
and Norway
bwers, and cen
d iftinguithed in
d their martial
in alliance with
wifdom would
the exorbitant
n ftri& alliance!
den.
CHAP
DENMARK.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHYe
Manners and Cufloms.— Language. — Literature. —Education—U; niverfities,
—Cities and Towns. — Edifices.— Roads.—Inland Navigation.— Manu-
fadures and Commerce.
HE manners and cuftoms of the
{uperior Danes differ little from
thofe of the fame claffes in other parts of Europe. The peafantry con-
tinue ina ftate of vaffalage > except thofe of the crown, who have been
rently delivered by the patriotifm of the heir apparent, and a few other
intances. ‘They are of courfe idle, dirty, and difpirited. In Norway on
the contrary, every peafant breathes the air of freedom, except thofe of a
fw noble eftates near Frederickftadt. The Norwegian peafants are {pi-
rited, frank, open, and undaunted, but not infolent ; in the comforts of
lie they feem to yield to none, except fome of the Swifs: their ufual drefs
sof a tone colour, with red button-holes, and white metal buttons; and
‘the women often appear only dreffed in a petticoat and thift, with a clofe
cllar round their throat, and a black fafh. Their ufual bread, like that
ofthe Scotifh peafantry, confifts of flat cakes of oatmeal : which in times
of great {carcity is mingled with the white inner rind of trees *.
APLANDERS. | At the fartheft northern extremity of Norway is the
ngion of Finmark, or more properly Lapmark, being a large province
polled by the Danifh Laplanders, and extending even to the eaft of
Cape Nord, towards Ruffian Lapland. The inhabitants of this wild and
rmote province have been defcribed at confiderable length by Leems,
vho has prefented a complete and faithful picture of Laplandic man-
vst. This fingular race of men is of a {mall fize, generally about four
fet, with fhort black hair, narrow dark eyes, large heads and high cheeek-
bones, a wide mouth and thick lips, and a {warthy complexion, In the
fouthern part of Finmark they are mingled with Norwegians; but the
northern wildernefs is wholly their own. ‘They call themfelves Same, their
feech Same-giel, and their country Same Edna, being probably of the
fame race as the Samoides. ‘Towards the fhore they build huts; and op
the mountains ufe tents of a flatly conic form, and divided by feveral rude
partitions into apartments for themfelves, their fervants and cattle. The
fun is here abfent for feven weeks ; yet from ten in the forenoon to one in
the afternoon there is a kind of twilight even in the fhorteft days, fo that
ome may read without a candle; but the flars are very vifible, and the
moon, when apparent, fhines all the day. In return, the fun never fets
for feven weeks of fummer ; bit his beams are dull and remifs in the night,
when he afflumes a ruddy hue. The rivers f{upply falmon and other Eth,
wconfiderable part of the Laplandic food ; but at a feftival are feen mut-
on or rein deer, and mead. The men wear conic red caps lined with
fur, and a kind of robe of cloth or fkin ; the poor fometimes ufing that of
himon, which appears like a white fhagreen. Till recent times they were
mmerfed in paganifm, regarding particular mountains and rocks.as holy :
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. ]
* Coxe, v.
+ Leemius de Laponibus Finmarchiz. Copenhagen, 1767, 4to. Scheffer treats of
be Swedith Laplanders: of the Ru(lian there feems no ample account. hei
thew
846 DENMARK.
their chief god was Radien, who dwelled in the ftarry heaven ; in the lower
aerial regions were Beivi or the fun, with Horangalis or the thunder,
and other divinities, "t
Amidit the converfion of the northern nations to Chriftianity, th
° » tne
Laplanders have been unaccountably neglected. Eric Bredal, bithop of
Drontheim, made fome vain attempts about the year 1660; but the me val
miffion was not founded till 1714. Since that period the miffionares
have exerted themfelves with great fuccefs.
The manners and cuftoms of the Greenlanders fhall be confidered in
treating of North America.
The people of Iceland being of Norwegian extract have few peculiar
manners, but retain more of the ancient drefs and cuftoms of their an.
ceftors. They are conftrained to prepare flour from varions plants de.
feribed by Von Troil, and their chief animal nutriment is dried fith; the
common beverage is fyra or four whey, kept in cafks and left to ferment,
beer being f{carce.
- Lanauace.] If we except the Laponic, the languages fpoken in the
Danith dominions are all fifter dialects of the Gothic. ‘The Icelandic jg
the moft ancient and venerable and being efteemed the moft pure diale&
of the Gothic, has engaged the attention of many profound fcholars, who
have confidered it as the parent of the Norwegian, Danifh and Swedith,
and in a great degree of the Englifh, though it would feem that this Jatt
is more connected with the Frilic, and other dialeéts of the north of Ger.
many. In the ancient Icelandic the Lord’s prayer is as follows :
Fa Jor uor fom eft i Himlum. Halgad warde thitt nama. Tilkomme thir
Rikie. Skie thin Vilie fo fom i Himmalam fo och po lordanné. Wort dachiicha
Brodh gif os i dagh. Ogh forlat os uora Shuldar fo fom agh vi forlate them
os Skildighe are. Oh inled os ikhie i Freftalfan, Utan frels os ifva Ondo.
Amen.
In the Finnihh it is as follows :
L/a meidan joca olet taiwaffa. Pryhitetty olcon finum Nimes. Lahes tuleon
finum Waldacundas. Oleon finum tahtos niin maafca cuin taievaifa. Anna
meile tanapaiwana meidan joca paiwainen — Sa anna meille meidan fyn.
dim andexi nuncuin mekin andex annam meidan welwottiflen. Ja ala iah data
meita kiufauxen. Mutta paafla meita pahafla. Amen.
And thus in the Laplandic :
Athi mijam juco lee, almenffne. Ailis viaddai tu Nam. Zeweigubatta ta
Ryki. Ziaddus tu Willio nankuchte almefne nau ei edna mannal, Wadde
miai udni mijan fert pefwen laibebm. Jah andagafloite mi jemijan fuddiid
naukuchte mije andagafloitebt kudi mije welgogas licen. Jah fiffalaidi: mijabni,
Ele tocko kackzallebma pahaft. Amen.
It will hence appear that the Laplanders have borrowed fome terms
from the Gothic, as well as from the Finnith.
Literature. } ‘The literature of Denmark cannot afpire to much
antiquity, —s followed, as ufual, the introduction of Chriftianity,
ablithed till the.eleventh century. In the next century
lived Saxo Grammaticus, whofe hittory of Denmark abounds with
fable, but whofe ftyle and manner are furprizingly claffical for tha
age. His contemporary or predeceflor, Sveno, is more veracious and
father of Danith hiftory. Norway cannot
which was not e
concife, and is elteemed the
boalt of a native writer, till a recent period. But it is a truly fingula
circumttance in the hiftory of European literature, that letters high!
flourilhed in the remote republic of Iceland, from the eleventh to t
fourteenth er and, independent of the fabulous Sagas, whieh
by
night be counted by hundreds, the folid and valuable works then pro
4 duces
duced i
we deri
logy.
drew tl
particul:
or book
names ar
attending
After
wonted a
celebrate
fervations
illuttratec
traveller :
to be a
Epuca
the mode
than once
deficient. «
three {cho
tongue, al
‘about 12).
belides ma
Holftein ;
ies; but |
There is ¢
at Soroe, |
cation.
UNIVER
The Royal
more diltin
1746 was f¢
alfo ityled
refpectable
fciences,
ment, and
ition.
Citirs A
flands on tl
about 25 Br
that vifit th
built city in
tdifices, yet
brick, but a
harrow, but
mn 1443, bei
of Kiobenha
chim to anti
was confume
filly from th
cumference b
199,000, T
outh the ifle
e .
&
nthe lower
thunderer,
Hianity, the
1, bithop of
it the royal
miffionaries
onfidered in
few peculiar
of their an.
1s plants des
‘ied fith ; the
t to ferment,
poken in the
> Icelandic is
S pure dialeé
(cholars, who
and Swedith,
i that this lat
north of Ger.
lows :
Tilkomme thitt
Wort dachlicha
vi forlate them
os ifra Ondo.
Lahes tulcon
Fevaifae Anna
Hille metdan Jyns
aala tah data
Zweigubatta tu
mnal, Wadde
jemijan Juddoid
calaidi mijabni.
od fome terms
{pire to much
bf Chriftianity,
e next century
abounds with
ical for that
veracious and
orway cannd
a truly tingul
letters high!
leventh to th
Sagas, which
orks then pre
duced
DENMARK. 241
guced in that. ifland might fill a confiderable catalogue. From Iceland
we derived the Edda, and our knowledge of the ancient Gothic mytho-
logy. From Iceland the Swedes, Norwegians, Danes, and Orcadians
drew their chief intelligence concerning their ancient hiftory, Snorro in
particular being ftyled the Herodotus of the north: and the Landnama,
or book of the-origins of Iceland, is an unique work, difplaying the
names and property of all the original fettlers, and the circumftances
utending the diftribution of a barbaric colony.
After the reftoration of letters, Denmark continued to maintain her
yonted afcendancy over Sweden; and the name of Tycho Brahe is yet
ccebrated ; but his little ifle of Hwen, noted for his aftronomical ob-
fervations, now belongs to Sweden. The botany of Denmark has been
ilutrated by CEder; and Niebuhr is diflinguifhed as an_ intelligent
traveller: but in the other parts of {cience and literature there feems
to be a deplorable deficiency.
EpucaTion.] The filence of travellers and geographers concerning
the modes of education purfued'in different countries has been more
than once regretted in this work; but the materials are not equally
deficient concerning Denmark. Each parifh is provided with two or
three {chools, where children are taught to read and write their native
tongue, and the’ principles of arithmetic: the fchoolmafters are allowed
-ghout 121. a year, with a houfe, and fome other advahtages *. There are
belides many Latin fchools maintained at the royal expence; 16 in
Holfteins 14 in Slefwic ; 19 in Denmark Proper, or Jutland, and the
ies; but only four in the wide extent of Norway ; and two in Iceland.
There is alfo a fpecial feminary for the Laplanders at Bergen: and
at Soroe,y Odenfee, and Altona, there are fuperior academies of edu-
ation.
Universitigs.] The univerfities are at Copenhagen and Kiel.
The Royal Academy of Sciences was founded in 1742, but has been
more diltinguifhed in natural antiquities than natural hiftory. In
1746 was founded the fociety for the improvement of northern hiftory,
alfo ityled the royal fociety of Icelandic literature. There is another
refpectable inftitution at Drontheim, ftyled the royal fociety of
fiences. Thefe foundations confer honour on the Danifh govern-
ment, and will doubtlefs contribute to diffufe fcience and infpire emu-
lation.
Cirizs AND Towns.] Copenhagen, the chief city of Denmark,
finds on the eaftern fhore of the eene and fertile ifland of Zeeland,
about 25 Britith miles to the fouth of the noted found, where the veffels
that vilit the Baltic pay a fmall tribute to Denmark. It is the beft
built city in the north; for, though Peterfburg prefents more fuperb
tdifices, yet Copenhagen is more uniform; the houfes being moltly of
brick, bue a few of freeltone from Germany +. The ftrects are rather
marrow, but are well paved, This city only became the metropolis
in 1443, being formerly an obfcure port, whence it retains the name
of Kiobenhaven, or the harbour of the merchants, and it has little
chim to antiquity. ‘The royal palace, which was a magnificent pile,
was confumed by fire a few years ago; and the city fuffered dread.
fully from the fame caufe in 1728. It ‘is regularly fortified, the cir.
cumference being between four and five miles, and the inhabitants about
90,000. The harbour is fpacious and convenient, having on the
vuth the ifle of Amak, peopled by the defcendants of a colony from
® Coxe, iv, 57. v, 167, + Ib, v, 126, Fad
a
242 DENMARK.
Fatt Friefland, to whom the ifland was granted by Chittiern IT. to fujre
ply his queen with vegetables, cheefe and butter; a deftination fill
retained. The magiltrates are appointed by the king ; but the burgeffes
canal is :
and $4
vellels ©
have deputies to proteét their rights. frifhed i
Next in dignity, though not in population, is Bergen, the capital of Mant
Norway, founded in the year 1070. It is feated. in the centre of Danifls d
valley, forming a femicircle round a {mall gulph of the fea. On the an
land fide it is defended by mountains, and on the other by feveral fortig. oH anc
cations. All the churches and many of the houfes are of flone, Tie Denm
ea(tle and cathedral are remarkable edifices. ‘The chief trade is in 4, nd Holf
hides, timber, &c. ; and Bergen was formerly conneéted with the Han. > horfes
featic towns. It retained the right of ftriking money till 1575, Thi; bo 1 Tl
city, being chiefly conftruéted of wood, has been expofed to repeated the .
conflagrations. ‘I'he population is computed at 19,000 *. tied fib |
The third city of Denmark, and indeed the fecond in population, j; kingdom h
Altona on the Elbe, within a gun-fhot of Hamburgh, originally a yil. Ie open
lage of the parifh of Ottenfen; but in 1640 it became fubject to Den.
mark, and was conftituted a city in 1664. In 1713 it was almoft ep.
tirely reduced to afhes by the Swedes; but its commerce was after.
wards fo much foftered by the Danifh fovereigns, as a diminutive
rival of Hamburgh, that it is computed to contain 25,000 inhabj.
tants +.
Chriftiana, in the fouth of Norway, muft alfo be named among the §
chief towns, though it only contain 10,000 fouls. It ftands in the
Indies, alf
midit of a fertile country ; and is by fome efteemed the capital of Clnate and
Norway, becaufe it contains the chief court of juftice, and is unquettion. ated *
ably the moft beautiful town in that kingdom, It was founded by Mineral
Chriftiern TV. in 1624, aftet Opflo was cqnfumed by accidental fire,
Chrittiana being fituated in the midit of iron and copper mines, and
not far from the celebrated filver mines of Kongfbergy the export of
metals is confiderable; but tar and deals form the chief articles,
The deals are moftly fent to England; the red wood being pro.
duced from what is called the Scotch fir, and the white from the
fpruce fir t.
Drontheim, about 270 Britifh miles to the N. of Bergen, was
anciently called Nidaros. ‘The inhabitants are only computed at 8000;
but as this is the moit northern city in Europe except Tornea, the po
pulation cannot of courfe be great. Drontheim is fituated on the river
Nid, whence it derived its name, and was founded in the year 997, being
the refidence of the ancient kings of Norway, and afterwards an arch.
bifhoprick, fuppreffed at the reformation, Of the cathedral the choir
alone remains. ‘There is fome commerce in wood, fifh, tallow, and cop.
‘per from the mines of Medal and Roras,
Epirices.] ‘The chief public editices are in the citics. The cafle
and palace of Cronberg, and the two other royal villas in Zeeland, ¢
hot merit a particular defeription, the buildings and gardens being
generally in An antiquated taffe. The roads in Denmark and Norwa
were, till lately, much neglected, and formed a ftriking contralt with
thofe of Sweden.
INLAND NAVIGATION.] The chief inland navigation of Denmar
is the canal of Kiel, fo called from a conliderable town in the north
Holttein. ‘This canal is intended to unite the Baltic with the nv
Eydar, which flows into the German fea, ‘The extent of this importad
CLIMATE A
Danifh mor
with others
which cont
pollefling a
cccafionall
WaYy chiefly
expofed tot
night be co
ter; while i
moderate, fo
hnuary,
FAcr oF
regions may |
which is abou
and indentatic
fields feparate
woods of bee
will apply to
Which, Mr,
England,
utland ptefen
owards Aalbd
Mrtile patture
* Balching, i, v6% + 1h, ii, Gs, $ Bidching. Coxe.
can
II. to fuje
nation {lil}
ie burgelfes
e capital of
centre of a
a On the
veral fortifi.
tone. The
re is in fifh,
th the Han-
1575+ This
to repeated
opulation, is
rinally a vil.
ject to Den.
vas almoft en.
ce was after.
a diminutive
5,000 inhabi.
ed among the
{tands in the
he capital of
| is unquettion.
as founded by
accidental fire,
yer mines, and
the export of
chief articles,
bd being pro.
shite from the
Bergen, was
buted at 8000;
ornea, the po
d on the river
year 997) being
wards an arcl
dral the choir
low, and cop-
s. The calle
in Zeeland, do
rardens being
k and Norwa
g contralt witl
2 of Denmar
n the north 0
with the nv
hing. Coxe.
can
this importal
DENMARK. 243
nal is about 22 Britifh miles and a half; the breadth roo feet at top,
and $4 at bottom ; the leaft depth is about 10 feet, fo as to admit
yils of about 120 tons*, It was begun in July 1777, and was
fnifhed in 1785.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.] The manufactures of the
Danis dominions are few and unimportant. Several have been res
ontly encouraged by the crown, which has paid more attention to com-
perce and agriculture than to the arts and fciences. The chief exports
of Denmark confift of native products. Jutland, with the ifles Slefwi¢
ad Holftein, generally export corn to a confiderable amount; and
the horfes and cattle of the latter province furnifh a fupply to Hol-
ind. ‘The chief produéts of Norway are wood, hides, (chiefly thofe
of the ort) with filver, copper, and iron; while Iceland exports
died filh, falcons, and hawks, and eiderdown. The commerce of this
kingdom has been greatly improved fince the acquifition of Altona, and
the opening of the Kielnavigation.. The colonies in the Eaft and Wett
Indies, alfo, fupply fome refources.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPIIY.
Clinate and Seafons.—Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture.— Rivers.
—Lakes.— Mountains. —F orefts.—Botany.—Zoology.— Mineralogy.—
Mineral Waters. —Natural Curiofities.
“HE kingdom of Denmark Proper, con-
filting of thofe ancient feats of the
Danith monarchy, the ifles of Zeeland, Funen, Laland, and Falfler,
with others of inferior fize ; and the extenfive Cherfonefe or peninfula,
vhich contains Jutland, Slefwic, and Holftein, may be confidered as
poileffing a humid and rather temperate climate. Yet the winter is
wcafionally of extreme feverity, and the-fea is impeded with ice. Nor-
WY chiefly extending along the weft fide of the Scandinavian Alps,
apofed to the vapours from the Atlantic, is not fo cold a region as
night be conceived. Finmark indeed feels the utmoft rigour of win-
tr; while in Iceland, on the contrary, that feafon is unexpectedly
moderate, fo as generally to permit the natives to cut turf even in
Jinuary.
Vet OF THE couNTRY.] The afpe& of fuch wide and detached
rgions may be conceived to be greatly diverfified. The ifle of Zeeland,
shich is about 200 G. miles in circumference, exclufive of the windings
ind indentations of the coaft, is a fertile and pleafant country, with
felds feparated by mud walls, cottages either of brick or white-wathed,
woods of beech and oak, vales, and gentle hills. ‘The fame defcription
vill apply to Funen, which is about 140 G. miles in circumference, and
which, Mr. Marthall fays, is as well cultivated as moft of the counties in
England. Holftein and Slefwic are alfo level countries ; ind though
itlind prefent many upland moors, and foretts of great extent, efpecially
owards Aalborg, or in the centre of the northern part, yet there are
tile paitures; and the country, being marfhy and not mountainous,
(IMATE AND SEASONS. }
# Coxe, v. 301,
Ra might
244 _ DENMARK.
wood *,
miles in 1
a beautift
rerfified v
of corn f
mountains
lake of F
breadth :
mountains
Mount.
rights wh
might be greatly improved. Norway is on the contrary perhaps the mot
mountainous country in Europe; but in the fouth there are tragg f
great fertility, and, though often rocky, the foil iarich. «The face of
the country is prettily fprinkled with numerous lakes and rivulets and
thickly dotted with cottages, rudely though not unpleafantly fituated
on rocky eminences, in the midft of the luxuriant foreit*."” ‘The No;
wegian Alps are frequently covered with dark forefts of pines and f,.
and the perpetual fnow of the peaks is not accompanied with the glaciers. §
and other terrors of the Alps, ;
SOIL AND AGRICULTURE.] In Holftein, and the fouth of Jutland
the agriculture may be compared with that of England ; the fields ara
divided by hedges and ditches in excellent‘brder, and fown with corn not wholl
and turnips. Farther tothe north, cultivation is lefs perfect. In Nor. kingdom fr
though, di
way the portion of arable ground is fcanty, and far from fufficient to
fupply the confunption. Phat mountainous country is however abun.
dant in pafture and cattle; which, as in Swifferland, are driven to the
heights in fummer; and a patriotic fociety has fo much encouraged
agriculture, that within thefe fifty years eftates have rifen near one third
invalue +. In the extenfive ifland of Iceland there is not much room
for agriculture; which has however greatly declined fince the period
of the republic, when treatifes were written on this interelting fub. |
ject.
. Rivers.] Inthe kingdom of Denmark Proper, the rivulets are ny.
merous; but fearcely a river of any note except the Eydar, the ancient
boundary between Denmark and Germany. Towards the north of Jut.
land an extenfive creck of the,fea, called Lymfiord, penetrates from the
Cattegat to within two or thrge miles of the German fea, navigable, full
of fifh and containing many iflandst. There are feverad other creeks,
Ina gen
chain, runn
Romfdal, is
prt called ]
of Aurfund
Here alfo a c
The third pi
ofthe coppe
ktween Nor
frm of a he
The heigh:
ad compare
into orology,
lubject, 3
which are by the Danes ftyled Fiords, or Firths, but fearcely another
river worth mentioning,
In Norway, as in Sweden, the largeft rivers are called Elven or Elben,
Thofe that rife in the Alpine chain, and run towards the weit, have iq
eonfequence but a fhort courfe ; and the chief ports, as in the welt of
Scotland, are fupplied by creeks or inlets of the fea, with a great depth
of water. The chief river of Norway is the Glom. or Glomen, which
not navigable, but full of cataraéts and fhoals; yet about 50,000 tre
are annually floated upon it to Frederickftadt. Before it receives th
Worm from the lake Miofs, it is as broad asthe Thames at Putney)
and its rugged courfe muit render it a tremendous torrent. It {pring
from the Ike of Orefund on the north of the Fcemund, and runs near!
fouth about 300 Britith miles.
Next may be named the Dramme, which flows into the weft fide oft
bay of Chriltiana, having received the Beina, and other confiderab
ttreams. Lefs remarkable rivers in the fouth of Norway are the Louve
the Torrifdals which runs by Chriftian Sand, and others flowing frot
numerous lakes. In Finmark the moft confiderable river is the Tan
which is followed by the Alten; both rifing in the mountains to the no
of Swedith Lapland, and flowing into the Arétic ocean.
Lakes. } The lakes in the Danifh dominions are numerous, the mo
extenfive being in the fouth of Norway. The lake of Miofs is about 6
Britifh miles in length, but the breadth is in generel little confiderab
except towards the centre, where it is from 12 to 18 miles: it contai
an ifland about ten miles in circumference, fertile in corn, pallure, 3
$ Buldhing, i. 028, § Coxe, v.62.
wo
+ Uh it
& Cone, v 01,
ne that, fro
than (Oo fath!
tothe weiter
but to the ea
thim, and ‘Ti
ike Romfdal.
Profeffor Rit
Gothia, is on]
the fea, He
lales, or to th
lemtland, abo
kparate Norw,
uct rivers ;
¢ Femund,
mt finally Sylt
beular from‘ t
ghelt mountai
be 6652 fect
won them g
The conttru
ris it underft
ht Pyrenees, ©
lintaing confi!
irious kinds, w
"Coxe, 49,
108 18,000 fuct
DENMARK.
246
Lapis ollaris is found in great quantities, and with it were built the ¢
thedral of Drontheim and other edifices *. This is generally found in
the vicinity of granite. :
Forgsts.] There are fome woods in the Danihh ifles, and forefts in
Jutland. ‘The Norwegian mountains are generally clothed with pines and
firs; and almoft the whole country may be regarded as a foreit, which
fupplies Europe with matts and other large timber. ;
Homans) The botany of Denmark Proper does not materially differ
from that of the other northern provinces of the German empire, which
has already been flightly fketched in the account of Pruffia, and will be
hereafter noticed more minutely when defcribing the other ftatee of the
Germanic body. The botany of Norway will be incorporated with that
of ghe reft of Scandinavia, under the article Sweden.
Zoo.tocy.] The Danifh dominions being of fuch great extent, and
variety of climate and afpeét, there is a great diverfity in the animal pro. |
ductions. ‘The horfes of Norway and Iceland are as remarkable for dimi.
nutive fize, as thofe of Holftein are for the contrary quality. Among the
more peculiar animals may be firft named the rein-deer, common in Fin.
mark and throughout Lapland. ‘This animal refembles a ftag, but is
ftronger; and the deep divifion of his hoofs is adapted to tread on the
f{now, being fuited by Providence to a cold climate, as the camel is to the
hot defert. ‘The antlers of the rein-deer are longer and more branched
than thofe of the flag, and they alfo decorate the brows of the female,
Thefe animals are ftill numerous in a wild ftate, though the Laplanders
have reclaimed great numbers, which fupply the place of horfes and
cattle. The elk is a more fouthern animal, and fometimes appears in
Norway, which is infefted by the bear, the wolf, andthelynx. The
lemming, or Norwegian moufe, proceeds from the ridge of Kolen, and
fometimes fpreads defolation, like the locuft. Thefe animals appear in
vaft numbers, proceeding from the mountains towards the fea, and de.
vouring every produét of the foil: it would feem that after confumin
every thing eatable in their courfe, they at laft devour each other. This
fingular creature is of a reddifh colour, and about five inches in length,
Norway alfo boatts of eagles, and its falcons are reckoned the boldet
and mott fpirited of any in Europe. The falmon fupplies a contiderable
part of the Laplander’s food ; and vaft numbers are tranfported on rein.
deer from the thores of the Tana. * Hares are alfo common in that remote
region, as well as the bear, lynx, and fox ; nor are the ghitton and the
beaver unknown. About Roras in Norway the latter animal is fometimes
found white.
MINERALOGY. ] The mineralogy of the Danith dominions is chiefly
reftricted to Norway, for in Jutland and the ifles no important difcoveries
have arifen. About the year 1645 fome gold ore was found near Arindil,
of which ducats were ftruck. But in gold Norway yields greatly to tle
Swedifh mines of Aldenfors, and only claims the fuperiority in fiver;
the mines of Konglberg, about 40 Britifh miles to the S.W. of Chai.
tiana, having been long reputed the richeft in Europe ; and one mals 0
native filver in the royal cabinet weighs 409 marks, being worth 2
rix-dollars, or 6001+. The rock confifts of vertical banks of mr icaccou
{chiitus, with garnets, limeftone, and quartz. ‘The veins of metal ar
from half an inch to more than two feet in thicknefs, fometimes accom
panied with large-grained lime-ftone, but more often with fpar. ‘The
snines were difcovered in 1623 by two peafants. ‘They are worked by 4
® Pontoppidan, i. 166, ii, 976. + Coxe, v. 45.
very defici
appear to
minions p
many fing
iitpodt \
hips: nay
him from tl
truly trem
dreadful wi
the grande
remarkable
20 Britith |
5000 feet,
the heat pr
there having
remained q
* Ponto vi
} Ace ording
ful iky-hlue, Pp
fhafts, a
employe
20 miles
the expe
being of
apeculia
or two, 1
lols of 1
Norw:
region, ‘
account.
The ir
of Dront
of the cl
The vein
pale yellc
{ource O!
and Selb
places.
The m
palled in
anting® |
f fuppot
15,0001,
tale f.
But the
are chiefly
Chriftiand
Lead app
near Chri
ticularly b
all kinds a
magnet is
green, whi
Menic:
Natur,
built the ca.
ly found in
d forefts in
ith pines and
orelt, which
terially differ
npire, which
- and will be
ftatee of the
ted with that
t extent, and
e animal pro- |
cable for dimi-
Among the
nmon in Fin.
a ftag, but is
o tread on the
camel is to the
nore branched
of the female,
he WLaplanders
of horfes and
imes appears in
helynx. The
of Kolen, and
mals appear in
he fea, and de
hfter confuming
hother. This
hes in length,
ned the boldet
sa confiderable
ported on rein.
bm in that remote
rliitton and the
al is fometimes
nions is chiefly
rtant difcoveries
id near Arindil,
s greatly to the
jority in fiver;
SW. of Chri
hnd one mals 0
ng worth 2%
ks of GP rcaceou
ns of metal arg
bmetimes accom
th fpar. helt
re worked by %
De
tha
DENMARK. 247
hafts, and ufed to yield about 70,0001. annually, when 4oco men were
enployed 5 but recently 2400 have removed to the cobalt mines at Foffum,
so miles to the north, and it is fuppofed that the preduce barely defrays
theexpence. Yet they fupply the mint with currency, the largeft coin
peing of eight Danith-tkillings, or four-pence fterling ; and it is efteemed
a peculiarity of this mine, that it may be little produ@tive during a year
or two, when fuddenly a rich vein is difcovered which amply repays the
Jos of labour *.
Norway alfo poffeffes other filver mines at Iarlfberg in the fame
region, about 30 miles to the N.E., difcovered in 1726, but of {mall
count. a4
The important copper mines of Roras, about 68 Britifh miles S.E,
of Drontheim, were difcovered in 1644. They are in the fouthern flope
of the chain of Doffra, in a rock of what the Germans call hornf{chiefer.
The veins are from fix inches to fix ells in thicknefs; and the ore of a
pile yellow. In general the mines of Roras are very produétive, and a
jource of confiderable revenue. ‘Other copper mines are at Quickne
and Selboe, about fifty miles to the eaft of Drontheim, and at other
laces.
The mines of cobalt at Foffum, a recent difcovery, muft not be
aed in filence. This metal yields fmalt, or powder blue, ufed in
painting pottery and porcelain, and in colouring ftarch; and the mine
is fuppofed to produce a clear annual revenue to the crown of about
10001 Near it is a rich vein of quartz containing large mafles of
tale t.
a the iron mines of Norway are efteemed the’moft profitable. They
are chiefly fituated not far from Arindal, in the fouthern province of
Chifiandfand 5 and near Skeen, between Arindal and Kosgfherg t.
Lead appears in the vicinity of Kongfberg ; and there are alum works
near Chriftiana. In Iceland are found many volcanic produétions, par-
ticularly black obfidian. The ifles of Faroe befides bafaltic columns of
all kinds and fizes, produce agate, jafper, and’ beautiful zeolites. The
magnet is alfo found in Norway: with curic..s garnets, efpecially the
green, which are little known in other regions. .
MepicAL WATERS.] In medical waters the Danifh dominions are
wry deficient ; and thofe difcovered in 1768 at Oerften in the Sondmoer
appear to be little frequented.
NaturAL curtositigs.] While the fouthern parts of the Danifh doe
minions prefent few natural curiofities, the northern provinces afford
many fingular features, The Motkoftrom, or Malltrom, is a remarkable
hid pooh off the fhore of Norland, which will involve boats, and‘even
fhips: nay the bellowing {truggles of the whale have not always redeemed
him from the danger ; the bottom is full of craggy {pires, and the noife
truly tremendous. On the fouth of the Faroe ifles there is another
dreadful whirlpool. The volcanoes of Iceland may alfo be clafled amon
the grandeit features of nature. Among thefe, Mount Hekla is the mot
remarkable, being fituated in the fouthern part of the ifland, about
20 Britifh miles from the fea, above which it rifes to the height of about
5000 feet. The fummit is covered with fnow, except fome {pots where
the heat predominates. The craters are numerous, but the eruptions rare 5
there having only been ten from the year 1104 to 1693, after which it
remained quiet till 1765, when it emitted flames and lava. ‘The boiling
* Ponto . i. 183,&e. Coxe, ut fupra, + Coxe, v.49.
_ $d According to Buiching, i, 341, ochre is found near Wardi.us, in Finmark, of « beautie
fyl tky-blue, probably like that of Elba, aud the fign of'a rich iron mine,
4 fprings
248 DENMARK.
fprings of Iceland prefent a fingular phenomenon: that of Geyfsr
the north of Skallholdt is the moft remarkable, rifing from an shetihie i
feet in diameter, and fpringing at intervals to the height of ¢o or aan
go feet *. About 29 miles to the north of Bergen, the rocks abound
with fingular petrifactions. The mountains are fometimes fplit and sh
gulphed by fubterranean waters, of which Pontoppidan relates {ome
inftances, more to be credited, as a fimilar event recently happened in th
fouth of France. The farm of Borre, in the province of Chriftiana nay
in 1703 {wallowed up with all its buildings, and there now remains onl ;
chafm full of ruins and fand +. ya
DANISH ISLANDS.
The prime feat of the Danifh monarchy having ever been in the ifles of
“Zeeland, Funen, Laland, Falfter and the others of that group, the
have been confidered in the general defcription of the monarchy, In the
ea{t, the fartheft ifle belonging to Denmark is that of Bornholm, a finall
but fertile fpot conquered by the Swedes in 1645, and furrendered to
them by the treaty of Rofkild, 1658; but the inhabitants revolted the
fame year, and reftored their ifle to the Danifh domination, under which
it has fince continued.
- Off the weit coaft of Jutland are the ifles of Nordftrand, Fora, Sylt
Rom, Fanoe and others, which with Helgeland are known to the
Romans; and the writers of that nation appear often to shave con.
founded them with fome of the Orkneys, and even with the iflands jn
the Baltic. '
The Norwegian coaft prefents one continued feries of fmall and urim.
portant iflands, moft of them indeed uninhabited. Among a few worthy
of mention may be named Karm, Bommel, Sartar, Hitteren, and others
at the entrance of the gulph of Drontheim: the Vikten or Viktor iflands
are followed by thofe of Loffoden, the moft numerous and extenfive, and
noted for the whirlpool of Malftrom. Among the dreary ifles on the La.
ponic fhore may be named Soroe and Mageroe, that of Wardhus, where
there is a garrifon in the Arctic ocean : and the ifle or peninfula of Fike.
roe, part of which belongs to Ruffian Lapland. ’
The Norwegian ifles are in general mountainous or craggy, like the
correfponding coaft, with precipitous rocks and a fea from 100 to 300
fathoms deep wafhing their bafes. Between them are numerous narrow
creeks, overfhadowed by vaft heights like thofe of the fhore, ‘and guarded
as it were by innumerable fmaller ifles, and defert rocks, haunted by
{creaming fea-fowl, ~
_ For many years the Norwegians held the ifles of Orkney and Shetland,
which laft was ftyled by them the Land of Hialt, from an adventurer fo
called, whence the corrupt names of Zetland, Yetland, and Shetland.
The Faroe ifles remain an appanage of the Danifh crown: they are fe.
ventecn in number, and not unfertile, producing fome barley, and abun.
dant pafturage for fheep. Small junipers, ftunted willows, and birches,
alone bear a diminutive image of trees. They were difcovered prior to
Iceland, in the ninth century; and export feathers, ciderdown, cups,
ftockings, falted mutton, and tallow. ‘The inhabitants do not exceed
gooo$. They abound with fingular ranges of large bafaltic columns.
# Van Troil, 260. + Bufching, i. 360.
2 See Landt’s curious account of thefe ifles, London, 1610, 6vo, The
The le
Britith m:
gout 206
$0,000»,
years till
are far fro
to the Da
range of
N. W,, w
tenfive @ f
ing tt hav
clothed wi
hunging o
Sahel b
‘ chiefly fane
fehitus,
Oxarfird,
white with
is celebrate
dony, Zeo
among the
this ifle wa
A volcanic
difappeared
of about 2
explored ir
plucked up
Names. —E
Namgs. ] (
lation, and i
woods had
tine of Tac
of the ocean
farther end 9
provinces of
tuna, the ol
DENMARK. 249
The large and celebrated ifland of Iceland may be regarded as 260
Britifh miles in length from the moft weftern cape to the mott eaftern, and
gout 200 in breadth from N. to S., but the inhabitants do not exceed
0,000 The government was an ariftocratic republic for about 387
{plit and en. ‘ars, tillin 1261 it fubmitted to Norway. ‘The maps of this country
relates fome | wre far from being perfect ; and the like complaint might juttly be extended
ypened in the to the Danifh dominions in general ; but as far as can be judged, the chief
riftiana, was ange of mountains runs like the Carpathian, from the S. E. to the
mains gnly a y, W., with fome branches diverging N. E, Thisifland forming fo ex-
five a portion of the Danifh dominions, feveral circumftances concern-
ing it have been given in the general narration. The higheft mountains
dothed with perpetual fnow are ftyled Yokuls; and of thefe Snefial,
huging over the fea in the S. W. part of the ifland, is elteemed the
highelt, being computed at 6860 feet *. The mountains are faid to be
‘ diefly fand-ftone, pudding-ftone, with petrofilex, fteatite, and argillaceous
¢hittus. ‘The chief rivers of Iceland are in the eaft ; the Skalfanda, the
Oxarfird, and the Brua, all flowing from the S. to the N. Some are
shite with lime, others fmell of fulphur. The calcareous fpar of Iceland
iscdebrated for it double refraction fince the days of Newton. Calce-
f Geyfer to
aperture 19
f° or even
cks abound
in the iflesof |
group, they
rchy, In the
holm, a {mall
urrendered to
3 revolted the
under which
1, Fora, Sylt,
‘nown to the
to shave con.
the iflands jn
all and urim.
a few worthy
n, and others
iktor iflands
extenfive, and
les on the La.
irdhus, where
{ula of Fifke.
rey, like the
100 to 300
erous narrow
» and guarded
by haunted by
and Shetland,
adventurer fo
land Shetland.
they are fe.
py, and abun.
| and birches,
ered prior to
rdown, caps
o not exceed
tic columns.
360.
BVO,
The
doy, zeolite, lava, pumice, and malachite, or copper ftalactites, are
anong the mineral produétions. Inthe middle of the fourteenth century
this ifle was gee? depopulated by a peftilence called the Black Death.
Avolcanic ifland recently arofe to the fouth of Iceland, but afterwards
dfappeared. From Iceland a colony pafled to Greenland, a fhort courfe
of about 200 miles ; but the Danifh colony in Greenland has been long
nxplored in vain, the eaftern coaft on which it was fettled being fince
bucked up by the ice.
SWEDEN.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names—Extent.— Boundaries. —Original Population.—Progrefive Geograe
phy.—Hiflorical Epochs and Antiquities. ‘
WEDEN, in the native language Suitheod, and mote
modernly Sweireke, appears to be a very ancient appel-
tion, and is faid by the northern antiquaries, to imply a country whofe
woods had been burnt or deftroyed. ‘The name feems as ancient as the ;
time of Tacitus +, who, after defcribing the Suiones who lived in iflands
of the ocean, paffes to the Sitones, and afterwards to the nations at the
farther end of the Baltic. The Sitones muft have dwelled in the fouthern
provinces of Sweden ; and the name either have been derived from Sic-
tuna, the old name of the chief town, as appears from Adam of Bremen,
or from Suitheod the native term, foftened as ufual by the Roman enun-
ciation. ,
Namts. ]
*@ Pennant, A, Z, Ixiii, + Geman, ¢. 44, 45.
Extent. ]
a50. SWEDEN.
Extent.] The kingdom of Sweden is of very confiderable extent rallte
Deing from the moft fouthern promontory of Scone to the northern ex. | and Ta ‘
tremity of Swedifh Lapland, not lefs than 1150 Britith miles in length, me gcogtap
and in breadth, from the Norwegian Alps to the limits of Ruffia, about ieee
wil
Ohter, re
knowledge
hitorians.
Histor
hitorical ¢
1. The
600. The contents in fquare miles have been computed at 208,912;
and the inhabitants being fome years ago fuppofed 2,977,345, there wil]
be 14 to the fquare mile, including Swedith Pomerania, computed a
1440 {quare miles, and 103,345 inhabitants. ;
Mopern pivisions.] The provinces of the Swedifh monarchy may |
pe arranged in the following manner : f
Upland ;
‘ Siidernanlana 2. by
. Nerike + or Sweden Proper. 3: i be
. Weftmanland * | Scan The
. Dalarne, or Dalecarlia y t m
. Welt Gothland, of Dene
. Eaft Gothland. a ee
South Gothland. tl Yt ig
.- Jemtland | ge Th x“
. Angermanland . Nes
Falfnglend or Welt Norland, nf IIL.,
. Gaftrickland eng
Herjeadalen ; any a
. Weit Bothnia. ae
Afele Lappmark thirteent
8. TI
Umea Lappmark nt 88, ¢ |
. Pitea Lappmark Swedith Lapland ea
. Lulea Lappmark eae Ohne Fst
. Tornea Lappmark
. Kemi Lappmark : : a
. Uleaborg or Eaft Bothnia. ie wa
Wala } Char "
4. Kuopio K g. ‘The
, pene peated or a
fm Sweden.
Tavaftland and Nyland i" Finland. 7
’ 10. ‘Tyr
. Abo and Bjorneborg B Gilauaa’
. Kymmengard I teit which 1
. Swedifh Pomerania, in Upper Saxony. The revolt
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] As there is no evidence that the Celts ever sais we}
penetrated to Scandinavia, the firtt population appears to have confilted fs seevagilé
of Firs, who, perhaps, feven or eight centuries before the Chriftian era, she Bere
were fupplanted by the Goths, mythologically reprefented as having been to tli ,
conduéted by Odin, the god of war. No foreign conquelt having fince and. died al
extended hither, the population continues purely Gothic in the fouthern ie
parts; while in the north chere are remains of the Fins 3 and above them
the Laplanders, a native diminutive race refembling the Samoides of the
north of Afia; and the Efquimaux and Greenlanders, Arétic races of
America.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The fouthern parts alone of Scandinavia
being known to the ancients, its progreffive geography is rather obfcure. 12. Th
The only people there fituated known to Tacitus, were the Sitone. MH yoo. ‘ a
Ptolemy mentions five or fix tribes, among which are the Guts of Goth hecnt ’ 7
land, as inhabiting the portion of Scandinavia known in his time. His faee '; th
four Scandinaviay iflands are evidently thofe of Zeeland, Funen, ae +e Aft
an
thirty-fever
18. Th
1611 —~163
conf{pired t
invited to ¢
and the Da
SWEDEN. 251
yi Falter. After this period there is little progrefs in Scandinavian
geography till the time of Jornandes, ‘in the fixth century, who defcribes
Scanziay OF Scandinavia, at fome length, and mentions various nations by
whom it was inhabited. ‘The next notices are due to the voyage of
Ohter, recited by our great Alfred ; and the more certain and general
jnowledge begins to dawn with Adam of Bremen, and the Icelandic
ittorians.
gare EPocHs.] The following feem to conftitute the chief
hitorical epochs of Sweden:
1, The early population by the Fins and Laplanders.
2, The conquelt by the Goths.
3, What little knowledge the ancients poffeffed concerning the fouth of
Scandinavia.
. The fabulous and traditional hiftory, which begins about the year
of Chrift 520, and includes the conqueit of Sweden by Ivar Vidfatme
king Denmark, about A. D. 760. Hence there is an obfcure period
till the reign of Biorn I., A.D. 829, commemorated, with his immediate
fyeceffors, by Adamof Bremen. ‘
5. The conqueft of Denmark by Olaf IT., about the year goo.
6. The partial converfion of Sweden to Chriftianity in the reign of
Of II., A.D. 1000; but more than half a century elapfed before
paganifm can be confidered as finally abandoned, in the reign of Ingi the
Piows, A.D. 1066. ~
7, The acceffion of the Folkungian branch, about the middle of the
thirteenth century.
8. The Swedes, difcontented with their king Albert of Mecklenburg,
in 1388, elect as their, fovereign Margaret heirefs of Denmark and Nor-
way. Thus ended the Folkungian race ; and by the celebrated treaty
of Colmar, A. D. 1397, the three kingdoms of the north were fuppofed
to be united for ever. But after the death of Margaret in 1412, the
Swedes began to ftruggle for their liberty; and in 1449 Karl or
Charles VIII. was elected king of Sweden.
g. The fttruggles between Denmark and Sweden, till the cruel
and tyrannic reign of Chriitiern II., king of Denmark, Norway, and
Sweden.
10. Tyrants are the fathers of freedom. Gultaf Wafe, whom we ftyle
1 Guitavus Vafa, delivers his country from the Danifh yoke, after a con-
f tet which forms one of the moit interetting portions of modern hiftory.
The revolt may be confidered as having commenced when Guttaf ap-
peared at Mora in Dalecarlia, A. D. 1520, and completed three years
afterwards when he entered Stockholm in triumph. Diffatistied with
the power of the clergy which had repeatedly fubjugated the kingdom
to Denmark, this great prince, 1527, introduced the reformed religion,
and died in his feventieth year; September 1560, after a glorious reign of
thirty-feven years.
11, The reign of Gultaf Adolph, or Guftavus Adolphus, A. D.
16111631. Aufltria, Spain, and the other Catholic kingdoms having
confpired to.extirpate the Proteitant religion in Germany, this king was
invited to affift the reformed, and carried his victorious arms tothe Rhine
and the Danube.
12, The reign of Charles XI. 1669—1697, when the arts and {ciences
began to flourifh and the power of the kingdom was carried to its utmott
height. This reign of folid beneficence was followed by the calamitous
fway of that madman Charles XII.
‘ 43. After the weak reign of Charles XII., Sweden funk into political
humiliation ;
rable extent,
northern ex.
es in length,
uffiay about
at 208,91 2s
$y there will
-omputed at
onarchy may | ;
he Celts ever
ave confilted
hriftian gra,
s having been
having fince
b the fouthern
d above them
moides of the
Etic races of
f Scandinavia
ther obfcure.
the Sitones,
ute of Goth.
stime. His
anen, Laland,
and
SWEDEN. ,
humiliation ; and is now regarded as little better than a province of Ruff, fiom the
to which difgrace the the Swedifh ariftocracy as naturally tends as that of fuppofed
Poland. opulatic
Antiquitits.] The ancient monuments of Sweden confift chiefly of gre fo mt
judicial circles, and other erections of unhewn {ftone, followed by ‘the peafants
monuments inf{cribed with Runic characters, fome of which are as recent CoLo?
as the fifteenth century, and none of them can fafely be dated more of St. B
anciently than the eleventh. Not far from Upfal is the moratten, or the Fren
itone on which the king ufed to be enthroned, as the old Scottith monarchs ARM
were at Scone. The ancient temples, called Skior, or Skur, were on infantry,
wood, and have confequently perifhed. Some of the old caltles, erected of the ar
fince the ufe of ftone, are remarkable for their refemblance to what are and hardi
called Pictifh caftles in Scotland. NAVY
feet whic’
that numi
of a flat (
CHAPTER II. courfe gr
Ruffia.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPILY. REVEN
. ; anda hal
The natio
This d
whelmed
{lver, and
a te gold coin,
HE religion of Swe. be valued
den is the Lutheran, worth litt
and this kingdom has retained an archbifhoprick with thirteen pre. half and q
lacies, the parifhes amount to 2537. The priefts are computed ifible.
at 1378; with 134 vicars, and 192 prepofiti, or infpectors*. Some of Poli TIC
the parifhes are very extenfive, as that of Eaftern Bothnia, which is about and relatio
150 miles in length by 48 in breadth ; and another parifh in Lapland is of Guitaf
ftill larger. hte revolut
GoveERNMENT.] The revolution of 1772 pretended to reftore the dom, whic
government to the form eftablifhed by Charles XI., and which had lapfed formerly ir
into a factious mixture of ariflocracy, but by the a& of union, 1789, the alliance fee
conftitution became an abfolute monarchy ; the monarch having arrogated and Pruffia
not only the rights of peace and war, and the adminittration of juitice, grefs of th
but the impofition of taxes, without the confent of the diet, which cannot with many
deliberate on any fubje& till it be propofed by the fovereign. The the peafan
diet confifts of nobles, and landed gentlemen, clergy, burgefles, or de. political b
puties of towns, and thofe of the peafantry. Each of the four ftates has of France.
a fpeaker ; the archbifhop of Upfal being always the fpeaker of the
clergy, while the king nominates the others. As the monarch is not
opulent, it is evident that fo large and refpectable a body might coniti-
tute a formidable barrier ; but the evils of faétion have been fo great
and impendent, and the Ruffian power and influence fo deftructive to
the very exiftence of the ftate, that the deputies feem juftly to regard Manners ai
the di¢tutorial power of the monarch as neceflary for their own at
prefervation. ls
PopuLaTIon. ] When the great extent of the Swedith territory is con. Maw
fidered, the population will appear comparatively fmall ; a circum@ance eee
arifing in part from the mountainous nature of the country, and in part ij much ting
Religion. — Ecclefiaftic Geography. — Government, — Laws. — Population,
— Colonies. — Army. — Navy. — Revenue. — Political Importance and
Relations.
Revicion, EccLestASTIC GEOGRAPHY. ] I
* Olivarius Le Nord Litterawe, No. 12,
from
SWEDEN. 253
fom the fevere climate of the northern diftri€ts ; Swedith Lapland being
ofed not to contain more than 7000 inhabitants. Yet at prefent the
ulation of the kingdom is thought to exceed 3,000,000. he nobility
ice of Ruffia,
ds as that of
pop’ He :
fift chiefly of ae fo numerous as to be computed at about 2,500 families ; while the
wed by the afants, the moft numerous clafs, amount to about 2,000,000.
are as recent CoLoNntES.] Sweden only poffeffes one fmall colony, that in the ifland
dated more of St. Bartholomew in the Weit Indies, which was ceded to them by
moratten, or tle French in 178 5 Wy ; ;
ith monarchs Army. ] The Swedifh army confifts of national troops and of foreign
cur, were on fantry, the latter being computed at about 12,000. The total amount
altles, ereéted of the army may be 48,000 : and the foldiers are of diftinguifhed valour
e to what are ind hardihood, and elated with the former fame of the Swedith arms.
Navy.] So fatal were the naval operations of 1792, that the Swedifh
fect which confifted of 30 fhips of the line, cannot now difplay above half
tht number. In the Baltic, which is full of low coafts and fhoals, gallies
of a fat conftruction are found more ferviceable than fhips of war, and of
curfe great attention is paid to their equipment by Sweden as well as
uffia. ‘
4 ee, The revenue of Sweden is computed at about a million
anda half fterling, whichis equalled by the expences of the government.
The national debt cannot be much lefs than 10,000,000 tterling.
— Population. This debt being chiefly incurred at Hamburgh, the country is over-
mportance and whelmed with the paper money of that city ; and the fcarcity of gold and
flver, and even of copper currency, is incredible. The ducat is the only
A gold coin, worth about nine fhillings fterling ; while the filver crown may
ion of Swe. be valued at four fhillings and fixpence. The fchelling or fhilling is
he Lutheran, yorth little more than one penny fterling; and the copper confifts of
thirteen pre. half and quarter fhillings, the ancient heavy pieces being now rarely
re computed wifible. |
s*, Some of PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] The political importance
hich is about ad relationsof this kingdom are much diminithed fince the glorious reign
in Lapland is of Guitaf Adolph and the beneficent {way of Charles XI. Prior to the
hte revolution in France, Sweden had remained a faithful ally of that king-
dom, which excited her againft any enemies in Germany, as Scotland was
formerly involved im the wars between France and England. Of late this
alliance feems to be facrificed to a more ufeful conneétion with Denmark
and Pruffia, which can alone guard the north of Europe from the pro-
grefs of the Ruffian preponderance. The diforder of the finances unites
with many caufes of difcontent, both among the ariftocracy and among
the peafantry, to render the pdwer of Sweden little apparent in the
ae balance of Europe, efpecially as now merged jn the afcendancy
of France. .
o reftore the
ich had lapfed
on, 1789, the
ing arrogated
on of juitice,
which cannot
ereign. The
refles, or de.
our ftates has
beaker of the
narch is net
ight contti-
been fo great
eftructive to
ly to regard
their own
CHAPTER IIT.
CIVIL GEOGRAPRY.
Manners and Cuftoms.— Language. Literature. — Education —Univerfities.
Cities. —Towns.—-Edifices.—Roads.—-Inland Navigation.— Manuface
jures and Commerce.
is HE manners and cuftoms of the
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS | T fuperior claffes in Sweden are fo Be! |
much tinged with thofe of the French, their allies, that no ftrik-
ritory is con-
circum@ance
and in part
#* Olivarius Le Nord Litteraixc, No, 12.
Cd
ang
from
O54 SWEDEN.
ing peculiarity cana be obferved, and ‘ever the peafantry hay Tre
maeh High and addrefs, that they have been ityled the rend : her
*the north. The complexion, which, in the northern latitudes js gene. hike Mi
rally. fair, is here much diverfified, being in fome provinces extremely tly fing
brown. ‘The men are commonly robuit and well-formed, and th views is
women flender and elegant. The natives of the weftern. province of furface ©
Dalecarlia retain many ancient cuftoms, and have been diftinguithed for or feath
their courage and probity, fince the time that Guftaf Wate iffued from greater d
the mines of that country to break the yoke of Denmark. The Fin. joules a
landers, on the ealt of the Bothnic gulph, are now little diftinguithable {uburbs,
from the Swedes; and any remarkable peculiarities of manners and cuf. of Swede
toms muft be fought in Swedifh Lapland. Danifh Lapland howeyer kingdom
being more remote, lefs known, and more recently defcribed, an account tenth ce
of this fingular people is given under the article of Denmark. The entre
Lanauace.] The language of Sweden is a diale&t of the Gothic, dificult a
being a fifter of the Danifh, Norwegian, and Acelandic. In the tig the year
grand divifions of the Gothic, confifting of the German and Scandina. great nu
vian dialects, the latter is diftinguifhed by greater brevity and force of tation :
expreffion. In the fouth of Sweden, which contains the chief mafs of The man
population, fome German and French words have been adopted ; while by the la
the Dalecarlian on the N.W. is efteemed a peculiar dialect, perhaps only at 80,000,
becaufe it contains more of the ancient terms and idiom. Next i
Lirerature.] In the antiquity of literature, Sweden cannot pre. teemed the
tend to vie with Denmark, Norway, or Iceland; the mott early native exclufive
chronicle, or perhaps literary compofition, being not more ancient than Gotheb
the fourteenth century. In return, while the Danes feem occupied with eteemed t
internal policy, and public regulation, the Swedes have, in modern times, though it
borne the palm of genius in many departments of literature and belides co
philofophy. Gothenbur
But Swedifh literature can hardly be faid to have dawned till the computed |
middle of the feventeenth century, when the Queen Chriftina, finding Carlikro
the country immerfed in ignorance, invited Grotius, Defcartes,. and Stralfund,
other celebrated men, who, though they did not refide long in the king. 11,000 inh
dom, yet fowed the feed of letters, which gradually began to profper in number it i
the wife and beneficent reign of Charles XI. In the fucceeding or lait pulation 5 a
century the name of Linnzus alone might diftinguith the national litera. HJ on the nort
ture ; and it is joined in natural hiftory with thofe of Tilas, Wallerius, more than .
Quilt, Cronftedt, Bergman, and others. In hiftory, Dalin and Lager. EDIFICE
bring have diftinguifhed themfeives by a precifion and force, which the J of many fp!
Danes feem to facrifice to antiquarian difcuffions. Sweden alfo boaits of Hi of Denmar
native poets and orators; and the progrefs of the {ciences is fupported HM roads being
by the inftitution of numerous academies. INLAND
Epucation.] The manner of education has, as ufual, been neglected HM inland navis
by travellers and geographers, though perhaps one of the moft important HJ Stockholm
branches in the whole circle of human affairs, Compared with this pri- HM conduéted ;
mary foundation, an enumeration of univerfities is of {mall confequence. through th
That of Upfal is the moft ancient and renowned, containing about 500 MM more than
ftudents ; while that of Lunden prefents about 300. A third is at Abo fi peatedly fa
in Finland, frequented even by ftudents from Ruffias and the whole MM pence ough
number is computed as equalling that of Upfal. There are befides twelve HJ England 9.
literary academies, moft of which publith memoira of their tranfactions HM ler Lake to
The library at Upfal is richly furnifhed with books remitted by Guflaf
Adolph, when his victorious arms penetrated deeply into Germany; fi * Coxe, iv,
Sweden having thus acquired by war the firft materials of her literary Mf, § This canal
fame. dies Jaden with
Citas
Mtry have fy
le French of
udes is gene.
es extremely
ed, and the
1. province of
tinguifhed for
fe iffued from
ke The Fin.
liftinguithable
nners and cuf.
and howeyer
d, an account
rk.
f the Gothic,
- In the two
and Scardina.
and force of
chief mafs of
lopted ; while
» perhaps only
n cannot pre.
ft early native
re ancient than
| occupied with
| modern times,
literature and
Jawned till the
riftina, finding
Defcartes,. and
g in the king.
in to profper in
ceeding or laf
national litera.
las, Wallerius,
lin and Lager.
ce, which the
alfo boatts of
s is fupported
been negleéted
noft important
i with this pri.
1 confequence.
ing about 509
hird is at Abo
and the whole
befides twelve
ir tranfactions.
ted by Guflaf
sto Germany;
£ her literary
Cutis
SWEDEN. 255
(rigs AND TOWNS. ] Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, ftands in a
fngular fituation between a creek or inlet of the Baltic fea, and the
ike Melar. It occupies feven fmall rocky iflands, and the fcenery is
quly fingular and romantic. A variety of contrafted and enchanting
jews is formed by numberlefs rocks of granite, rifing boldly from the
fyrface of the water, partly bare and craggy, partly dotted with houfes
or feathered with waod*."' Somewhat refembling Venice, but with
mreater diverfity of profpect, it requires no fortifications, * Moft of the
joufes are of ftone or brick, covered with white ftucco; except in the
burbs, where feveral are of wood painted red, as ufual inthe country
of Sweden. *This city was founded by the earl Birger, regent of the
kingdom, about the middle of the thirteenth century)s and in the feven-
renth century the royal refidence was transferred hither from Upfal.
The entrance to the harbour is through a narrow ftreight, of fomewhat
dificult accefs, efpecially as there are no tides: and for four months in
the year is frozen. It is however deep, and capable of receiving a
great number of veffels. The royal palace ftands tn a central and high
ituation; and there are a ca{tle, an arfenal, and feyeral academies.
The manufactures are few, of glafs, china, woollen, filk, linen, &c.
by the lateft accounts the pdpulation of Stockholm may be eftimated
at $0,000.
Next in dignity is Upfal, the only archbifhoprick, and formerly ef-
teemed the chief city of the kingdom; but at prefent'the inhabitants,
aclufive of the ftudents, do not exceed 3000 f.
Gotheborg, or Gothenburg, in the province of Weft Gothland, is
eleemed the fecond city in Sweden, having a population of 20,000,
though it was only founded by Charles IX. or rather by Guftaf Adolph.
Beides confiderable commerce, the herring fifhery contributes to enrich
Gothenburgh {. The ftreets are uniform; and th® circumference is
computed at near three miles,
Carlikrona was founded by Charles XI. in 1680. ‘This city, and
Stralfund, in ®wedith Pomerania, are fuppofed each to contain about
11,000 inhabitants. Abo, in Finland, is computed at 8,750; in which
number it is nearly rivalled by Nordkioping. Tahlun is the next in po-
pulation ; and is followed by Wifmar, another town pofleffed by Sweden,
onthe northern fhore of Germany. None of the other towns contain
more than 4000 inhabitants.
Epirices.] Even including the royal palaces, Sweden cannot boatt
of many fplendid edifices, The roads are in general far fuperior to thofe
of Denmark and Norway, which feem unaccountably negleéted, good ,
roads being the very ftamina of national improvement.
INLAND NAVIGATION. ] Of late a laudable attention has been paid to
inland navigation ; and the chief effort has been to form a canal between
Stockholm and Gothenburg. In this canal, ftyled that of ‘Trolhattan,
conduéted along the river Gotha, ftupendous excavations have been made
through the granitic rocks, in order to avoid cataraéts; one of which, of
more than 60 feet, is called the Infernal Fall. Yet the plans have re-
peatedly failed, from the ignorance of the engineers; and the firft ex-
pence ought to have been to procure a fuperintendant of real fkill from
England). ‘he inténtion was to condu& an inland route from the Me-
ler Lake to that of Hiclmar, and thence to that of Wener; and by the
* Coxe, iv, 03, + Ib, iv. 175, tlh. iv. 995,
, § This canal is now completed. In 1801 there paffed through it 1990 thips of different
ties laden with iron, feel, timber, bertings, grain, four, &e.
3 river
256 SWEDEN.
river Gotha, an outlet of the latter, to the Skager Rack
Sea. This grand defign is already in fome meafure ret al
in the year 1800 the rivers and old canals of Finland were pad
be cleared: but in that region the ice affords the eafielt mode of com
munication.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.] The Swedith manufaQures
far from being numerous, confifting chiefly of thofe of iron and Real
with cloths, hats, watches, and fail cloth. The manufaQures of eo nat
and brafs, and the conitruction of fhips, alfo occupy many hands as
1785, it was computed that 14,000 were employed in thofe of wool, fil,
and cotton. Of native products exported, iron is the moft confiderable
and it is faid that the miners in the kingdom are about 25,600. ’
The commerce of Sweden reits chiefly on the export of their native
products, iron, timber, pitch, tary hemp, and copper. Herrings alfo form il
a confiderable article. The chief import is corn of various kinds,
cularly rye, Sweden rarely affording a fufficiency for her own confump.
tion; with hemp, tobacco, fugar, coffee, drugs, filk, wines, &c, M.
Coxe has publifhed a table of the Swedith commerce, whence it appears
that the exports then amounted to 1,368,830]. 13s. 5d. and the imports
to 1,008,392]. 12s. 4)d., fo that the balance in favour of Sweden Was
about 360,cool.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Chmate and Seafons.—£ace of the Couatry.—Soil and Agriculture—Riyey;,
— Lakes, — Mountains. —Forels.— Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy.
Mineral Waters. —Natural Curiofities.
Aaae ” HE different parts of Sweden prefent
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] T confiderable ‘alates of semspentins
but even in the middle regions winter maintains a long and dreary fway,
The gulph of Bothnia becomes one field of ice: and travellers pafs onit
from Finland by the ifles of Aland. In the moft fouthern provinces,
where the grand mafs of the population is centered, the climate may be
compared to that of Scotland, which lies under the fame parallel ; but
the weftern gales from the Atlantic, which deluge the Scottifh High.
lands with perpetual rain, and form the chicf obftacle to improvement,
are little felt. In the north the fummer is hot, by the reflection of the
numerous mountains, and the extreme length of the days; for at Torney,
in Swedifh Lapland, the fun is for fome weeks vifible at midnight ; and
the winter in return prefents many weeks of complete darknefs, Yet
thefe long nights are relieved, by the light of the moon, by the re
flegtion of the f{now, and by the /.urora Borealis, or northern lights
which dart their ruddy rays through the fky, with an almoft couttant
effulgence.
Fack oF THE COUNTRY. SoIlL AND AGRICULTURE.) No country
can be diverfified ina more picturefque manner, with extenfive lakes,
large tran{parent rivers, winding freams, wild cataraéts, gloomy forelts,
verdant eh ftupendous rocks, and cultivated fields. Whe Gril is not
the moft propitious ; but agriculture is conduéted with fkill and in
duitry, fo as much to exceed that of Germany and Deane is
I
| a of Bo
4
wthe prov
60 Britith
Farther s
ers, whic
plandic tt
nme; and,
joins the nort
Britih miles
Finland is
ile ftreams,
by Biormbor
Finland.
LAKES. ]
flakes, wh
portant is the
join breadth
granite. It
romantic ifles
Next is the
any. other
nolt confidera
chief lake of
and Germay
npleted ; and
re ordered tg
node of com.
ufatures are
on and fteel;
res of copper
y hands. In
of wool, filk,
confiderable ;
00.
of their nativell
rings alfo form
s kinds, parti.
wn alias
ey &c. Mr,
Nice it appears
nd the imports
f Sweden was
ulture—Rix ery.
Mineralogy.
bweden prefent
rk temperature,
d dreary {way,
ellers pafs onit
hern provinces,
slimate may be
parallel ; but
Scottifh High.
b improvement,
flection of the
for at Tornea,
midnight ; and
Harknefs, Yet
on, by the te
orthern lights,
Almolt conttant
No country
xtenfive lakes
rloomy foretts,
The foil is not
h cn 4 = ine
naar: Vea
Finland
SWEDEN. 257.
find prefents many rich paftures, and not a few fields of rye, oats,
barley.
Mie) Sweden is interfe&ted by numerous rivers, the largeft of
stich are in the native language called Elbs, ur Elis, The moit con-
gierable flow from the lakes, without any great length of courfe: fuch
the Gotha, the only outlet of che vaft lake of Wener, but impeded
jymany rocks and cataracts, Many other rivers in the fouth rather
sfume the form of creeks, and outlets of the lakes, as the Motala, which
ythe outlet of the lake Weter paffing i Norkioping ; and fcarcely can
stream be named of confiderable courfe, till we reach the river Dahl,
je moft important in Sweden ; pi aclagl of two conjun& ftreams, the
ate and weftern Dahl, which rife in the Norwegian Alps, give name
wthe province of Dalarn, or Dalecarlia, and, after a courfe of about
fo Britifh miles, enter the Bothnic gulph, about 10 miles to the eaft
{Gefle, prefenting, not far from its mouth, a celebrated cataract,
deemed little inferior to that of the Rhine at Schafthaufen, the breadth
{the river being near a quarter of a mile, and the perpendicular height
The furrounding {cenery alfo
{the fall between 30 and forty feet *.
fits the effe&t, which is truly fublime.
farther to the north, and in Swedifh Lapland, are many confiderable
iets, which alfo arife from the Norwegian up and flow into the
Ih of Bothnia, after circuits of about 200 miles. The chief of the
Einlandic {treams is the Tornea, which fprings from a lake of the fame
nme; and, after receiving the Kengis, and other confiderable rivers,
iis the northern extremity of the Bothnic gulph, having run about 300
Bitih miles. ; ‘
Finland is fprinkled with numerous lakes, which give rife to confider-
dle ftreams, but of a fhort courfe ; as the Ulea; the Cano which pafles
by Biormborg ; and the Kymmen flowing into the centre of the gulph.of
Finland.
Lakes.) Few countries can rival Sweden in the extent and number
dlakes, which appear in almolt every province. Of thefe the moft im-
wrtant ia the Wener, which is about 80 Britith miles in length by about
join breadth, in great part furrounded with forefts, and rocks of red
gnite. It receives 24 rivers, abounds with fifh, and contains many’
tomantic ifles.
Next is the Weter, a lake of equal length, but inferior in breadth,
shich feldom exceeds 12 miles. This lake being furrounded with moun-
ins is particularly fubjeét to ftorms in the ftilleft weather, whence arife
many popular tales and fuperftitions ; it contains two remarkable iflands ;
ud on the fhores are found agates, carnelians, and touch-ftones, or
pieces of fine bafaltes. The Weter is clear, though m+ A ; and while it
receives about 40 {mall rivers, has no outlet except the Motala.
The lake Meler, at the conflux of which with the Baltic is founded
the city of Stockholm, is about fixty Britith miles in length by eighteen
inbreadth, and is {prinkled with pi€turefque ifles. ‘T'o the S.W. is the
eof Hieldigr, more remarkable for its propofed utility in the inland
wvigation than for its extent.
e is that of Stor, in the province of Jemtland. The
hief lake of Lapland is that of Enara, in the furtheft north, about
eventy Britith miles in length, by thirty at its greateit breadth ; after
his may be named thofe of Hernafba Staer, or the great lake, Tornea,
@ Wrexall’s Northern Tour, p. 190, Coxe, v. 9.
3 and
as8 , SWEDEN.
and others. The lake and mountain of Niemi, and the river ‘Tengilo
which falls into the Tornea, have been celebrated by Maupertuis for their
picturefque beauty.
The mott confiderable lake in Finland is that of Pejend, or Paiana
about 80 miles in length by 15 in breadth, and which gives fource to the
river Kymmen. ‘The lake of Saima to the E. is yet more confiderable
but it is chiefly within the Ruffian dominions: this lfke may perha :
with its various creeks and communications, be eftimated at 160 Brith
miles in length, by 25 at its greateft breadth; and flows into the
Ladoga, by the great and noify current of Woxen, which forms a yah
cataract about a mile from its mouth ®, ?
Mounrains.] Sweden may be in general regarded as a mountainoys
country; in which refpe& it is ftron ly contrafted with Denmark
Proper, or Jutland, and the ifles. The chief mountains are in that cle.
vated chain which divides Sweden and Swedifh Lapland from Nor.
way ; from which fucceffive branches run in a S.E. direGtion, |
would appear that the granitic ridge of the chain is in Norway ; while
the flanks, confifting as ufual of limeftone, pudding-ftone, and free
ftone, verge into Sweden. The centre of the chain feems, as in
the Alps and Pyrenees, to prefent the chief elevations, whence the
mountains decline in height towards Lapland. In the centre and fouth
of Sweden the red granite becomes very comimon: but in Weftrogothi,
the mountains are often of trap.
Farther illuftrations of the grand chain of mountains which divide
Sweden from Norway will be found in the defcription of the Danith
dominions.
Forests.] The forefts of this kingdom are numerous, and without
their aid the mines could not be wrought. Dalecarlia, in particuly,
abounds with them, and the numerous fakes are generally fkirted with
wood to the ‘ig of the water.
Borany.] Although the grand Scandinavian pes be divided
by its political iaterefts between Denmark, Sweden, and Ruffia, yet
nature refufes to acknowledge any fuch diftintion : it hall therefore be
confidered with refpe& to its botany as one great whole; nor cana
fketch of its indigenous plants be introduced any where with more pro.
priety than in the defcription of that territorial part of it which, in ex
tent, is fuperior to all the reft, and which reckons amongft its citize
the illuftrious Linnzus, and feveral of his moft eminent difciples,
The lowlands and lakes of Scandinvia are principally fituated in the
fouth of Sweden and Finland, and the great ranges of Alpine mountaing
are feund near the Arétic circle, or at leaft, are confined to the northem
provinces: hence it is that Lapland, both from its elevation and j
northern fite contains feveral plants which are not to be met with in the
reft of the peninfula.
Several {pecies are common both to England and Scandinavia; ant
though the flora of Britain be the moft copious of the two, yet the fu
periority is not perhaps fo great as might be expected from the differen
of climate. Ifthofe f{pecies that are natives of our chalk hills a
fouthern coafts are for the moft part wanting to Scandinavia, yet this laf
contains feveral German and Arétic plants which are not to be found i
our own ifland.
Of timber trees there are but few fpecies; the moft common, an
thofe which conftitute the wealth of Scandinavia, are the Norway pi
bd Bulchiag, i. 674,
ind the
- mountai
thoufanc
and allo
fporting
verted t
nel 18 €
the juice
the wooc
bread in
dwarf bil
and the b;
the gale,
within th
Linnea b
the cornu
hady fide
oF
e
The 2
the heath,
amarticle
the animal
heath canni
and other }
The pla
to this al
ever met
former ma
thodiola a
tints the
the berries
260 SWEDEN.
and Bergman, have laid the firft folid foundations of the fcience. fp
would therefore be a kind of wee ingratitude not to beftow due atte
tion on Swedith mineralogy. Fir
the gold mines of Adelfors in the province of Smoland,
fometimes native, and fometimes combined with fulphur,
copper are alfo found in the fame vein, which likewife prefents galena
and iron. But thefe mines feem to be ncarly exhautted.
duction of filver Sweden yields greatly to Norway ; yet the mine of Sala
or Salberg, about 30 Britifh miles weft of Upfal, maintains fome reputa.
tion. ‘The filver is in limeftone ; which, however,
grained and free from mixture, contains no mineral, and is ftyled ignoble
rock ; it ison the contrary metalliferous when fine-grained, and shingled
Ne
he gold is
with mica*. There are about 100 veins, greater or {maller. The f ver
is rarely found native, but is procured from the ,salena or lead ore. Sil.
ver has alfu been found in Swedifh Lapland.
The chief copper mines of Sweden are in the province of Dalecarjia,
~ On the ealt of the town of Fahlun is a great copper mine fuppofed to
have been worked for near 1000 yearst. The metal is not found jin
veins, but in large mafles; and the mouth of the mine prefents an im.
menfe chafm, nearly three quarters of an Englih mile in circumference,
the perpendicular depth being about 1020 feet. About 1200 miners are
employed. Copper is alfo wrought in Jemtland ; and at Ryddarhytte
is found iron, Nor is Sweden deficient in lead: but iron forms the
rincipal produét, and the mine of Danamora is particularly celebrated
ie the fuperiority of the metal, *which in England is called Oregrund
iron, becaufe it is exported from Oregrund an adjacent port, where the
Bothnic gulph joins the Baltic. The mines of Danamora have no gale
levies, but are worked in the open air by means of deep excavations ,
The ore is in a limeftone rock, and occupies about 300 perfons in twelve
pits. This valuable mine was difcovered in 1488. Bergman deferibes
Some ores of §
n the pro.
when it is large.
in dignity, though not in profit, are &
PomE
acount:
account,
jp Swedif
gming t
reg
have eac
Pomerani
dukes hav
af Wettp
ce of §
of Pruffia
remainder
Gtralfund,
palfo a ra
pat Wilt
140,000 i
Rugen
tility.
we tranfpo
their pri
into feven {
town of Sv
maintains a
funded in
the iron mine of Taberg in Smuland, as confifling of beds of ore, .of alm
blackifh brown, feparated by beds of mould without any ftone §. This
enormous mineral pile is rivalled by an entire mountain of iron ore ne
TY'ornea, in Lapland ; and at Lulea the mountain of Gellivar forms a mafg
of rich iron ore, of a blackith blue, extending like an irregular vein fo
more than a mile, and in thicknefs from 300 to 400 fathom ||. Ccbalt
is found at Bafna, and zinc at Danamora ; while the mines of Sala prefent
native antimony ; and molybdena appears at Norberg. Copal: has been
recently difcovered in the province of Scone.
Sweden abounds: with beautiful yanks but in marble yields to Nor
way. Porphyry alfo appears in the mountains of Swicki and man
other parts.
The moit renowned medical waters in Sweden are thofe of Medevi, i
eaftern Gothland.
Sweden and Swedifh Lapland abound with natural curiofities of v
Some of the lakes and cataraéts have been alread
rious defcriptions.
mentioned ; and it would be in vain'to attempt to defcribe the ma
fingular and fublime fgenes, which occur in fo variegated and exteni
a country.
* Berginan, Phy. Geog. ut fupra, p. 49. Coxe, v. 94.
$ Coxe, v. 109. . § Usfupra, p. 58,
) In another paffage, peiee Bergman obferves that the two mountains of Kerina
snd Joufywara, in Picea Lapland, ouly divided by a lite valley, ase wholly compofed of in
Oe,
REMOT
Sweden p
Bothnia. R
Swedith
who es
by the treat
cattle, Fart
nkngth ab
many fine fo
porles are {mz
ild boar un]
Bland ; and
wiland of C
aus, about
¢ diftria,
bthe Danes {
weden, ‘Thy
riving their
ad fifteen in ¥
wedith langud
ies form as it
polite shores
SWEDEN
{cience. ft
vy due atten.
in profit, are §
REMOTE AND DISTINCT PROVINCES.
: PoMERANIA.] In fome inftances a province or provinces belonging to
pene go af ,country are fo diftant, that they te be well ricluded in the eae
efents galena { ycount, but muft like the iflands be confidered apart. In this cafe
In the pro. y$wedifh Pomerania, which contains about 103,000 inhabitants, Cone
mine of Sala ening this ancient duchy, of which Sweden only poffeffes a portions
Tome reputa. juching has given ample details, The kings of Sweden and P uffia
1 it is large. tae each a vote in the diets of the empire, the firft as duke of E ther
ftyled ignoble pomerania, and the other of Further Pomerania. The ancient line of
, and thingled ukes havin become extinét, Sweden received, by the celebrated treaty
r. The filver i Wettphalia, great poffeffions in Pomerania; but was obliged by the
lead ore. Sil. se of Stockholm, 1720, to refign a confiderable portion to the king
i Pruffia ; nor was the imperial inveftiture obtained by Sweden for the
of Dalecarlia, rmainder till 1754. The governor, of Swedifh Pomerania refides at
e fuppofed to Galfund, where there is a court of juftice for military affairs. ‘There
3 not found in jalfo a royal court of juftice at Griefswald; but the fupreme tribunal
yrefents an ime jat Wifmar. ‘The revenues of Swedifh Pomerania fcarcely exceed
circumference, yo,000 rix dollars, and are encumbered with a public debt. The ifle
200 miners are Rugen belongs to Swedifh Pomerania, and has the title of prin-
ddarh tpality. This afle is very produdtive in various kinds of grain, which
fone ette t Pe stootted to Stralfund; the nobility are numerous, and as jealous
larly celebrated of their privileges as if they moved in a wider fphere. Rugen is divided
valled Oregrund mmm ato feven parifhes, the chief town being Bergen. Stralfund, the chief
ort, where thejmmm wn of Swedifh Pomerania, is furrounded with water on all fides, and
ra have no gal. mintains a confiderable trade. Griefewald is the feat of an univerlity
> excavations}, funded in 14.56.
erfons in twelve
rgman deferibes i
ns of ore, .of a
y ftone §. This
bf iron ore nea
var forms a mafs
egular vein fo
hom ||. Ccbald
bg of Sala prefent
Coal: has beer
SWEDISH ISLANDS.
Sweden poffeffes many iflands, fcattered in the Baltic fea and gulph of
Bothnia. ~Rugen, the moft foutherly, affords as it were a paflage to the
§wedith poffeflions in Pomerania. This ifle formerly had its own princes,
vio afterwards paid homage te the Danes. It was annexed to Sweden
bythe treaty of WeRtphalia, and is not a little productive im grain and
atte, Farther to the north-eatt is the long ifland of Oland, or CEland,
in length about feventy miles, -in breadth about fix. In the north are
na . fine foreits, while the fouthern part is more level and fertile. The
orfes are {mall, but ftrong, and the foreits abound with deer, nor is the
iid boar unknown. Freettone, alum, and touch-ftone are produ&ts of
Eland; and the inhabitants are computed at near 8000. Next occurs
fe ifland of Gothland, known to the literary world by the travels of Lin.
zus, about feventy miles in length, and twenty-four in breadth ; a fer-
ediftri&t, remarkable for an excellent breed of fheep. It was fubje&
othe Danes for near two centuries, till 1645, when it was reftored to
weden, ‘The ifles of Aland mark the entrance of the Bothnic gulph,
riving their name from the largeft, which is about forty miles in length,
fifteen in breadth, containing about gooo inhabitants, who {peak the
wedith language though included in the government of Finland. Thete
ies form as it were a leche of rocks of red granite, ftretching to the
ppolite shores.
$3 POR.
le yields to Nor
ucku, and man
fe of Medevi, i
uriofities of
lave been alread
{cribe the m
ed and exten
Coxe, Vv. 94
Us Supra, p. 58
ins of Kerunm
ally compofed of in
REMOT
PORTUGAL.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
v
Names.— Extent. — Boundaries. —Original ‘Population—Pro refive Geovrg.
phy.—Hiftorical Epochs and Antiquities. srefive Gre
Names.) af) Bp name of Portugal is of recent origin. In the Ro.
man period there was a town called Calle, now Oporto,
(o Porto, or the Port,) near the mouth of the river Douro; and, this
haven being eminently diftinguifhed, the barbarifm of the middle ages
conferred on the circumjacent region the name Porto Calle; which, as |
the country was grecudly recovered from the Moors, was yet more im.
properly extended to the whole ban Ci *, The ancient name of this
country was Lutitania; but the boundaries do not exactly corref.
ond.
ExTENT.] Portugal extends about 360 Britifh miles in length by 129
in breadth ; and is fuppofed to contain about 27,280 fquare miles, which,
with a population of 1,838,879, will yield 67 inhabitants to the mile
fquare+. The extent and population thus approach nearly to thofe of
Scotland ; but by fome accounts the population of Portugal may exceed
the calculation here followed by nearly half a million.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The: original population of Portugal may i
be traced in that of Spain, and has undergone the fame revolutions,
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The progreffive geography of Portugal
is alfo included in that of Spain till the eleventh century, when it began
to form a feparate ftate. ‘The kings of Caftille had recovered a {mal
part of this country from the Moors about the year rogo: and the con.
queft was gradually extended from the north till about the middle of the
thirteenth century, when the acquifition of Algarve completed the prefen
boundaries of Portugal.
Historicau Epocus.] The hiftorical epochs of fo recent a ftate can
not be numerous: nor is it neceflary to recur to thofe ancient events
which more properly belong to the general hiftory of Spain.
1. The kings of Afturias fubdue fome of the Moorith chiefs of the
north of Portugal. In 1054 Ferdinand king of Cattille extends his con
ueft to Coimbra; and on fharing his dominions among his fons, Dor
Garcia, along with Galicia, had a part of Portugal, whence he is ftylet
on his tomb, A.D. 1090, Rex Portugallia et Galliciat. :
2. Alphonfo VI. brother of Garcia, and king of Caftille, having fa
vourably admitted feveral French princes to his court, among them w
Henry, whom he nominated count of Portugal, adding hisnatural daughtg
Therefa in marriage. The count fignalized himfelf by many victories oy
the Moors, and died in 1112, leaving a fon Alphonfo I, of Portugal, w
in the year 1139 gains an illuftrious vi€tory ovet five Moorith princes, a
is acclaimed king by his troops in the field of battle.
3- Alphonfo ITI., about the year 1254, completes the conqueft
Algarve.—Portugal continued to be fortunate in a fucceffion of g
© D’Anville, Etats formées en Rusope, &e. p. 398.
+ Boetticher'’s Tables, p. 46. er 3 D’Anville, 196.
P nei
princes 5
thole ag
+ Po
difcoveri
into Afr
rational |
deira.
dition int
baie
by Philip
I Th
the throne
the earth
Spain, wi
8 The
fruggles '
ANTIQI
monument
tenfive fer
antiquities
Batalha, it
Lifbon, fo
confequenc
mot nob)
teCture t.
reffive Geogras
» Inthe Ro.
» now Oporto, &
uro ; and, this
e middle ages
alle ; which, as
8 yet More im.
t name of this
exactly corref.
n length by 120
re miles, which,
Ata to the mile
arly to thofe of
gal may exceed
f Portugal may
spires
hy of Portugal
. whe it ihe
covered a {mal
oO: and the con
he middle of the
pleted the prefen
cent a ftate can
ancient events
bain.
ith chiefs of the
extends his con
g his fons, Dor
ence he is ftyled
ftille, having f
mong them wi
natural daughte
any victories ove
bf Portugal, w
prifh princes, an
the conquelt ¢
ceffion of gre
ville, 194. R
P
PORTUGAL. 263
rinces; but the wars againft the Moors were unhappily followed by
thofe againft the kings of Caftille. /
y Portegal was to attract the admiration of Europe by her commercial
jicoveriese In 1415 John the Great, king of Portugal, carrying his arms
isto Afticay and taking the city of Ceuta, an impulfe was geen to the
mtional {pirit ; and in 1420 we find the Portuguefe in poffeflion of Ma-
fire The Portuguefe difcoveries in Africa proceeded under John’s
ecellors, Edward, and Alphonfo V., and the au!pices of Prince Henry,
iil, in the reign of John ITI. they extended to the Cape’ of Good
Hope: and in that of Emmanuel, Vafco de Gama opened the Eaft
diese ;
“ John ILI, admits the inquifition, A. D. 1526; fince which event
the Portuguefe monarchy has rapidly declined.
6, Sebaitian king of Bartue leads a powerful army on an idle expe-
dition into Africa, and is flain in battle. He is fucceeded by his uncle
Cardinal Henry who dying two years afterwards, Portugal was feized
ty Philip II. king of Spain, 1580.’
7. The revolution of 1640, which placed the houfe of Braganza on
the throne of Portugal, Little of confequence has fince arifen, except
the earthquake at Lifbon in 1755, and the recent intermarrriages with.
Spain, which promife, at no remote period, to unite the kingdoms.
8, The retreat of the royal family to Brazil, and the fubfequent
fruggles with France, ;
AnTIQuiTIEs.] The antiquities of Portugal confift chiefly of Roman
monuments, with a few Moorifh remains. 1n the fartheft north is an ex-
eafive feries of arches, formerly a Roman aquedué&t*. Among the
antiquities of the middle ages may be named the noble monaftery of
Batalha, in Portuguefe Eftremadura, about 60 miles to the north of
Lifbon, founded by John I. at the clofe of the fourteenth century, in
confequence of the great victory over the king of Caltille, one of the
not noble monuments of what is called the Gothic ftyle of archi
eure tT.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. —Ecclefafical Geography —Government.—Laws.—Divifions and
Population. — Colonies. — Army.—Navy.— Revenue.—Political Imports
ance and Relations.
HE religion of Portugal is the Roman Catholic ;
and a ftri&t obfervance of its duties forms one of the
ational characteriftics. T'here are two archbifhoprics, and ten epifcopal
fees: and there is befides a patriarch. The number of parifhes approaches
four thoufand f. ;
GovERNMENT, &c.] The conftitution of Portugal is a monarchy, ab-
folute and hereditary ; yet in cafe of the king’s demife without male iffue,
he is fucceeded by his next brother ; whofe fons have however no right
tothe throne till confirmed by the ftates§. The chief articles of the
RELIGION. } "
® Murphy's Travels,
+ Sce the minute defcription by Murphy.
3 Murphy's Stace of Portugal, p. 30.
§ lb. 109, from the Portuguele writers.
S4 conti.
264 PORTUGAL.
\
conftitution are contained in the ftatutes of Lamego, iffued by Aj
honfo I. in 1145. The laws have few particularities: they are fenient
In cafes of theft, which muf be repeated four times before death be the
punifhment,
Divisions AND POPULATION.] Portugal is divided into fix pro.
vinces, 1. Entre Douroe Minho. 2. T'ras-os Montes, 3. Beira. 4, Ef.
~ tremadura. § Alentejo. 6. Algarve.. The two firit bemg on the north
of the kingdom, the next two in the middle, the two lait in the fouth
The firft province derives its name from its fituation, between the rivers
Douro and Minho, and is very populous and fertile, the fecond ig
mountainous as the name imports ; but there are vales which contain Vine.
yards, and other cultivated lands. Beira is a large and fertile province ;
and is rivalled in foil by Eftremadura, which, like the Spanith province of
the fame name, is faid to derive its etymon from having been an extreme
frontier towards the Moors in the fouth. Alentejo, having been moft ex.
ofed to the attacks of the Spaniards, is defective in population. Algarve
1s a very {mall divifion, which has however the honour of forming an ad.
dition to the royal titles. The population of the whole is, according to
Boetticher, 1,833,879 but by Murphy's ftatement, 2,588,470.
Cotontes.] The chief colony from Portugal is that eftablithed ir
Brazil ; and they ftill retain Madeira and many fettlements on the coat
of Africa, with Goa and Macao in the Eait Indies, the relics of great
power and aa :
Army, &c.] The army is only computed at about 243000; and the
militia might perhaps amount to as great a number. The naval power,
once confiderable, is reduced to thirteen fail of the line, and fifteen
frigates *.
EVENUES.] The revenue is calculated at 2,000,000. fterling, and
the gold of Brazil moftly pafles to England -in return for articles of
induttry. .
Ponioroat IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS.] Portugal retains {mall
influence in the political fcale of Europe. Her commerce is almot
wholly dependent on England : but by land the is expofed to no danger,
except from Spain, or by the confent of Spain. The union of the two
countries would doubtlefs be advantageous to both; but might prove
detrimental to Englifh commerce, and the weight of England in the
Portugufe councils would infallibly fubfide,
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms. — Language.—-L iterature.—Education.— Univerftia,
—Cities and Towns Edifices —- Roads.— Inland Navigation. —Maw
fatiures and Commerce, ,
HE manners and cuftonis of the Por.
MANNERS AND Customs. J T tuguefe are difcriminated into ‘tholt
of the northern and fouthern préyinces, the former being more induttriow
and fincere, the latter more polite andindolent, In general the Portuguel
are an clegant race, with regular features embrowned by the fun, and dark
as exprefli
| bythe ar
expre
in Po
rts
Pat
tal mi
drefs :
the F
La
Caftill
race V
derives
a grav
foreign
Lit
with ]
lettres,
Lobeir
romanc
acquire
Barros,
the cou
In matl
fixteent
fludied.
Epus
though
was for
academy}
utility,
Citrix
The fitu
hheltered
—
quake o
has cont
broad an
conitant
coolnefs
winter a
of the tc
are publi
triar¢hal
at I14,0¢
monat ery
five miles
completec
The ne
of Oport
about five
houfes rife
the houfe
*M
lued by Al.
y are lenient
death be the
into fix pro.
Beira. 4. Ef.
on the north
in the fouth.
yeen the rivers
the fecond is
h contain vine.
tile province ;
‘ifh province of
een an extreme
x been moft ex.
ation. Algarve
forming an ad.
8, according to
588,470.
t eftablithed in
ts on the coatt
relics of great
4,000 ; and the
he naval power,
ine, and fifteen
ol. fterling, and
for articles of
ral retains {mall
merce is almot
led to no danger,
nion of the two
but might prove
England in the
on. — Univerfitia.
i jgation.— Manu
bmis of the Por.
ated into ‘thofe
more indutftrious
1 the Portuguel
he fun, and dark
exprellivy
PORTUGAL. 265
expreffive eyes. The prejud:ces of nobility are as common and pernicious
in Portugal as in Spain ; nor is that general intercourfe found which im-
rts knowledge and vigour to fociety. Ladies of rank {till imitate the
induttry of their anceftors in {pinning flax from the diftaff; and the orien-
tal manner of fitting on cufhions on the floor is often practifed. The
drefs refembles the Spanifh. The peafantry remain miferable vaffals of
the Fidalgos, or gentlemen.
Laneuace.} The Portuguefe language is more remote from that of
Cattille than might be expected from the circumttances. As the royal
nce was of French extract, it is fuppofed that many of the words are
derived from the Limofin and other dialeé&ts of the S. of France. It is
agrave and folemn fpeech; but would have been little known among
foreigners, had it not been diffufed by the fame of the Lufiad.
LireraTure.] The literature of Portugal may be faid to commence
with Diniz, the fixth fovereign, who cultivated poetry and the belles
lettres, and founded the univerlity of Coimbra. In his reign lived Vafco
Lobeira, who is fuid to have been the original author of that famous
romance, Amadis de Gaula. In more recent times, Sa da Miranda has
acquired reputation in paftoral poetry. The chief hiitorians are Joao de
Barros, Fr. Luiz de Soufa, the venerable Bartholomeo do Quartal, and
the count de Ericeira*. Among the poets the moit celebrated is Camoens,
Inmathematics Pedro Nunez diitinguifhed himfelf at the beginning of the
fixteenth century. Of late years natural hiftory begins to be a little
fudied: but Portugal is the Taft of nations in that department.
EpucaTion, &c.} Education feems preety negle&ted in Portugal,
though the univerfity of Coimbra be of ancient date. That of Evora
was founded in 15533 and a college at Mafra in 1772. The royal
academy is of recent erection, and the defign afpires to contiderable public
utility.
Cisse AND Towns.] Lifbon, the capital city of Portugal, was called
| bythe ancients Ulyffippo, and the foundation fabuloufly afcribed to Uly fies.
The fituation is grand, on the north fide of the mouth of the Tajo, and is
theltered on the N.W, by a ridge of hills, ‘I'he haven is capacious and
excellent. ‘The population is computed at about 200,000. The earth-
quake of 1755, a dreadful and memorable epoch among the inhabitants,
has contributed to the improvement of the city, the new ftree's being
broad and well paved, refembling thofe.in the weit end of London. For
conftant refidence the ladies prefer the attic floors; and ventilation and
coolnefs are chiefly confulted, grates being almoft unknown; while in
winter a warm cloak fupplies the place of a fire +. There isno court end
of the town; and the fineft ftreets are inhabited by tradefmen. ‘T'here
are public walks, two theatres, and a circus for the bull-feafts. The pa-
triar¢hal church is fingularly magnificent ; and the revenue is computed
at 114,000l. The Englifh have an open burial ground. The royal
monattery of Belem, founded by king Emanuel in 1499, ftands about
tive miles S.W. of Lifbon; and to the north is a noble modern aquedu&,
completed in 1732.
The next contiderable town, efpecially in the eye of ftrangers, is that
of Oporto, or the Port, feated on the N. fide of the rjver Douro,
about five miles from the fea, upon the declivity of a hill, fo that the
houfes rife like an amphitheatre, The ftreets are however narrow, and
the houfes ill conitruéted, Population about 30,000. The churches
* Murphy, 457. + Murphy’s Travels in Portugal, 148,
are
266 PORTUGAL.
are of little note: the Britifh faGtory is a large and neat building, ‘Thy §
chief exports are wine, oranges, lemons,’ &c., and linen cloth to’ th
American colonies in Brazil. - Hess
Braga is another conliderable town in the fame province: and in th
fecond northern divifion are the towns of Miranda and Braganza, the lat
of which conferred the ducal title on the prefent reigning famil :
In the province of Beira is the venerable city of Coimbra, with its a
cient univerfity. Alentejo contains the city of Ivora, rather of ancient
fame than of modern confequence. Tavora, the principal town of A]
garve, does not exceed 5000 inhabitants *. :
Enivices.} The chief edifices of Lifbon are the cathedral, and mona. §
fteries formerly mentioned. The nobility, as in-Spain, crowd to the
capital, whence the country is little decorated with villas. In the moun.
tains of Cintra, the fartheft weftern extremity of Europe, about 20 miles
W. of Lifbon, is placed a remarkable monaitery, 3000 feet, as is {aid
above the fea, towards which there are remains of ancient buildings, and
a curious bath replenifhed by a never-failing fpring. On the E. of the
mountain is a fummer palace, of morefque architecture. The environs
are rich and delightful, fupplying moft of the fruits and greens ufed
at Lifbon. Here is alfo a {mall vineyard, that of Carcavella, yielding
a peculiar grape, which gives name to our Calcavella, a wine generally
fabricated in Bandon t.
INLAND NAVIGATION. ] Portugal feems to have paid no attention
whatever to the conftruction of canals; nor perhaps are they found ne.
ceffary, in a country abounding with rivers, and bordered with an am.
ple extent of fea eoatt.
MAnvuFAcTuRrEs AND COMMERCE.] The Portuguefe manufactures are
few and unimportant : hats and paper have been lately fabricated at Lif. §
bon; but the chief manufaftories are thofe of woollen cloth at Covilham,
Portalegre, and Azeitaon.
A confiderable commercial intercourfe fubfifts with England ; but the
. ‘balance in favour of the latter appears to be about 400,000l. fterling;
and Ireland gains by her exports about 63,000]. annually t. The Fal.
mouth packets bring frequent remittances of bullion, coin, diamonds, and |
other precious ftones ; and for a confiderable time the Portdguefe gold
money was current in England. Befides woallens and hardware, England
tran{mits to Portugal large cargoes of falted and dried fith, the laft article
to the annual amount of about 200,o00l. The exports of Portugal are
chiefly wine, oil, oranges, lemons, figs, fugar, cotton, cork, drugs, and
tobacco. Portugal allo maintains a confiderable trade with her flourih.
ing colony in Brazil, the inhabitants of which are computed at 900,000.
The articles exported to America are chiefly woollens, linens, ftuffs, gold
and filver lace, fifth dried in Portugal, hams, faufages, &c. with glafs
manufactured at Marinha. Brazil returns gold, filver, pearls, precious
ftones of various defcriptions, rice, wheat, maize, fugar, molaffes, or.
namental timber, and many other articles rather curious than important,
The drugs, fpices, and articles ufed in dying, muft not however be
omitted. ‘The trade with the Eaft Indies is inconfiderable,; and that
with the other European nations fcarcely deferving notice: it is chiefly
with Holland, France, Denmark, and Germany. Some trade is allo
carried on with the American ftates.
® Eftimated hy fome however at 20,000.
¢ Murphy's Travels in Posiugal, 941, &e. 3 Murphy’s State, 62.
CHAP.
Chmate at
—Lak
Waters
CLIMATE
tay. Al
ie thi
dal heat
FACE ©
tile, thou
confiderat
§panith. c
lemon tre
art grea
be at «
neglected
vince, bet’
ina ftate
Rivers
defcriptior
nar Lifbo
_ Among t
Coimbra ;
forms the
of Portug
Mount
decribed.
mentioned
the mount
purfues its
madura, fe
and affords
‘ {even Jeag
city of Ivo
to the chai
ZooLoG
with that
fheep are a
are fed wit
eleemed,
MINER
negleGted ¢
immenfe m:
perhaps the
The mout
--
e
3
ilding. The §
cloth to’ the
23 and in the
ranza, the laf
amily,
ay With its an.
rer of ancient
town of Al.
al, and mona. §
crowd to the
In the moun.
ibout 20 miles
et, as is faid,
buildings, and
the E. of the
The environs
d ager ufed
vella, yielding
wine generally
1 no attention
they found ne.
| with an am.
anufactures are
ricated at Lif. #
h at Covilham,
rland ; but the
cool. fterling;
The Fal.
diamonds, and |
brtdguefe gold
ware, England
the laft article
ed at 900,000.
ns, ftuffs, gold
&c. with glals
earls, precious
» molaffes, or-
han important.
bt however be
able,; and that
: it is chiefly
e trade is allo
ate, 62.
CHAP.
™ nar Lifbon affords a capacious
PORTUGAL, 267
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Chnate an Seafons.—Face of the Country.—Soil and 5 ache le
—Lakes. — Mountains. — Forefts.—-— Zoology. —-Mineralogy.— Mineral
Waterw—Natural Curiofities.
HE climate of Portugal is familiarl
(uINATES AND SEASONS. | T known to be moft excallent and fal
wy. At Lifbon the days of fair weather are computed to amount to
yo0 in the year ; and thofe of fettled rain feldom exceed 80. Tie me-
dal heat is generally about 60° *.
Fack OF THE COUNTRY, &c.] The face of the country is generally fer-
tile, poe with many acclivities ;‘and in the N.E. corner there nfes a
confiderable clufter of mountains, feemingly unconneéted with the great
Spanifh chains: ‘The numerous vineyards, and groves of orange and
kmon trees, confpire with the cryftal ftreams and verdant vales to ime
art great beauty and diverfity to this favoured country. The foil,
be at of Spain, is generally light ; but the agriculture is in rather a
neglected ftate. Meadows are little known, except ‘in the N.W. pro-
ince, between the Douro and the Minho; and many fine vales remain
ina ftate of nature.
Rivers.] _Therivers of Portugal have been alre: ly enumerated in the
defcription of Spain. The Tajo is here a noble ftream, and its eftuary
Raven, from two to nine miles in breadth.
_ Among the native ftreams may be named the Mondego, which paffes b
Coimbra ; the Soro, which runs into the Tajo ; and the Cadaon, whic
forms the harbour of Situval. Scarcely a lake can be traced in the map
of Portugal,
MounrTarns.] The mountains of this kingdom have not been exactly
defcribed. Thofe in tie N.E. feem an unconne&ted clufter, as already
mentioned but the Spanifh chain to the N. of Madrid, called by fome
the mountains of Idubeda, enters Portugal near the town of Guarda, and
purfues its former courfe to the S.W. The chain of Arrabeda, in Eftre-
madura, feems a branch or continuation of this: it is chiefly calcareous,
and affords beautiful marble. In the province of Alentejo is a {mall chain,
' feven Jeagues in length by two and a half in breadth, running between the
city of Ivora and town of Eftramas, which may be regarded as belonging
to the chain of Toledo,
Zootocy.] The zoology of Portugal may be regarded as the fame
with that of Spain +. Phe horfes are, however, much inferior. The
hheep are alfo negle&ted, and far from numerous; but {wine abound, and
Kt fed ae sxcnlent acorns, fo that the Portuguefe hams are defervedly
efteemed.
MineraLocy.] The mineralogy of Portugal has been almoft as much ,
negleGted asthe agriculture, In the two northern provinces are feen
immenfe mines, fuppofed to have een worked by the Romans, being
perhaps the mines in the N. of Lufitania mentioned by ancient authors }.
The mouth of the largeft, cut through the folid rock, is a mile and
© Murphy's Trevels, 220,
For the botany, fee Spain.
3 Murphy's State, 35. os ha a
a half
PORTUGAL.
268
a half in circumference, and upwards of 500 feet deep; at the botto
it meafures 2,400 feet by 1400. Many fubterranean paflages pierce Ah
mountain like a labyrinth, and the whole works are on the grandeft {cal a
Small veins of gold have been obferved in the mountains of Goes ne
Eltralla ; and it is ftill found in the fand of fome ftreams, as in: ancient
times the Tajo was celebrated for this metal. Under the demination of
the Spaniards a mine of filver was worked, not far from Braganza, fo late
as the year 1628. ‘Tin was alfo found in various parts of the northern
provinces, There are lead mines at Murfa, Lamego, and Cogo ; and the
galena are ores very productive.of filver ; copper is found near Elvis, and
in other diftriéts. The iron mines are neglected, from a deficiency of
fuel; though coal be found in different parts of the kingdom, and that of §
Buarcos fupply the royal foundery at Lifbon, Emery is found near the
Douro ; and many beautiful marbles abound in this kingdom. Fullers’
earth occurs near Guimerans. Portugal alfo boaits of antimony, manga.
nefe, bifmuth, and arfenic ; and near Caftello-Branco are mines of quick-
filver. Rubies have been difcovered in Algarve ; jacinths in the rivers
Cavado and Bellas ; beryl or aquamarine in ss mountain of Eftralla, [py
fhort, Portugal abounds with minerals of molt defcriptions ; and nothing §
is wanting but fuel and induftry.
MINERAL WATERS.] Nor is there any defect of mineral waters of
various kinds. The baths of Caldas da Rainha, in Eftremadura, are
the moft celebrated ; and the next are thofe of Chaves.
NATURAL curiosit1Es.} On the north bank of the river Douro jg
ahigh maffy cliff, with engraved letters or hieroglyphics, ftained with
vermillion and blue; beneath which is a grotto, fuppoted to abound with
bitumen.
PORTUGUESE ISLANDS.
Azones.] The Azores properly belong to Europe, and not to Africa,
under which laft divifion of the globe they have hitherto been claffed,
They are about thirteen degrees from Cape St. Vincent in Portugal,
while the African fhore is more diftant by at leaft one degree ; and their
latitude rather connects them with Europe than with Africa: not to
mention that they were firft peopled by Europeans, and that this portion
of the globe is too {mall to abandon any appendage. ;
The general accounts bear that thefe iflands were all fucceffively dif.
covered by the Portuguefe, before 1449, wh» gave them the name of
Azores from the number of gofhawks, which they here obferved re.
markably tame, there being neither man nor quadruped. But there is
fome reafon to believe that they were not unknown before, though,
being left uninhabited, they attracted little attention, The map exe.
cuted at Venice in 1367, by Fr. Picigano, and preferved in the ducal
cabinet at Parma, though it contain the Canary Iflands, with their mo.
dern names, does not prefent the Azores; but that of Bianco, 1436,
refents even the pol remote and detached of thefe iflands, Corvo and
But fuch monuments cannot always be depended on, as ad
ditions may have been made a century after their firft conftruction.
However this be, in 1466, the Portuguele king gave them to his
fitter the duchefs of Burgundy ; and they were in confequence colonized
by Flemings and Gérmans, among whom was Job de Huerter, father-in.
law of the celebrated geographer Martin Behaim, who refided in Fayal,
3 The
‘jorez.
The fub!
fem to h
The ct
1580, the
the Span
ign ‘I
command
hattle wit
Thefe «
their warn
had fittec
the Azore
Wright,
ve been
of charts,
lave been
from that «
we carelef
till ackno
glifh with
caracs had
vas plunde
of Florez,
Spanith thi
wreck, het
rather Of v
written b
captain Fli
hinfelf dra
ulual, to we
having prot
the Azores
tory of thet
A furiou
1757,
he chie
with two fi
map was Dp
Fleurieu, a:
fented as ab
breadth,
the large b
noted pot o
about thirt
breadth of
of Florez a
The voleg
reported to
fited thefe j
Peak is ab
French leag
* See Theve
Hetrora alfy gav
t See Uuis ve
the bottom
s pierce the
andeft fale, j
of Goes and
3 i: ancient
mination of
anza, fo late
the northern
Zo; and the
r Elvis, and
deficiency of
, and that of
und near the
m. Fullers’
nony, Manga.
nes Ye abab.
3 in the rivers
Eftralla. In §
; and nothing
eral waters of
remadura, are
ver Douro is
3, tained with
o abound with
not to Africa,
been claffed.
in Portugal,
ee 3 and their
frica: not to
at this portion
cceffively dif.
the name of
obferved re.
But there is
fore, though,
(‘he map exe:
in the ducal
With their mo-
Bianco, 1436,
s, Corvo and
ed on, as ad
ruction.
them to his
nce colonized
er, father-in-
fided in Fayal.
The
PORTUGAL. 269
The fubfequent hiftory is rather obfcure; but the Flemifh inhabitants
jem to have always acknowledged the king of Portugal. Ab:
The crown of Portugal having become united to that of Spain in
60, the inhabitants of thefe remote iflands appeared willing to reject
the Spanifh yoke, and to acknowledge Don Antonio as their fove-
he French in confequence fent a body of troops to Tercera,
nmanded by De Chafte, in 1583, who were, however, defeated in a
tattle with the Spaniards *. ve ;
Thefe events feem to have excited the attention of the Englith during
tir warm competition with Spain; and in 1589, the earl of Cumber-
nd fitted out four thips at his own expence, with which he cruized off
Azores. The account of thie expedition was drawn up by Edward
Wright, an excellent mathematician who was prefent, and fuppofed to
{we been the firft author of the celebrated invention for the conftruction
of charts, commonly called Mercator’s proje€tion, though it feem to
lave been known a century or two before, as it cannot be diftinguifhed
fom that of feverai maps and charts jn which the degrees of longitude
ye carelefsly reduced to fquares. It appears that the people of Florez
fill acknowledged Don Antonio as their king, and fupplied the En-
iin with provifions. Some Spanifh thips were taken; but the rich
arcs had departed a week before their arrival. The town of Fayal
vs plundered +. In 1591, a glorious ation was fought near the ifle
of Florez, by Sir Richard Grenville, in the Revenge, againft fifteen
Spanith fhips of war ; and though his veffel was reduced to a complete
weck, her gallant commander died on the fecond day of his captivity,
rather of, vexation than of his wounds. The account of this aétion is
written by the celebrated fir Walter Raleigh. In the fame year, 1591,
captain Flicke commanded a cruizing voyage to the Azores, and has
bhinfelf drawn up an account of the expedition. The intention was, as
ulual, to watch for Spanith thips from the Welt Indies. ‘The Spaniards
laving probably altered their arrangements, this practice of cruizing off
the Azores appears to have only continued for a few years; and the hif-
tory of thefe interefting iflands relapfes into obfcurity.
Afurious earthquake is faid to have been felt on the gth of July
1797.
"ihe chief ifles are St. Michel, Tercera, Pico, or the Peak, and a >
lent
withtwo fmaller far in the weft called Florez and Corvo. An excel
map was publifhed at Paris, in 1791, from the obfervations of M.
Fleurieu, and'of Tofino the Spanith aftronomer. St. Michel is repre-
fated as about forty Britith miles in length, by about twelve of medial
breadth. The finett oranges are exported from this ifland to London;
the large being called by the name of the ifle, while the {mall are the
noted pot oranges. Tercerais about twenty-five by fifteen. ‘The Peak
about thirty by ten; and is exceeded by St. George in length, but the
breadth of the fatter feldom exceeds five miles. The detached iflands
of Florez and Corvo are very fmall, efpecially the latter.
The volcanic mountain, which gives name to the Peak, is by fome
rported to equal that of ‘I'eneriffe in height. M. Adanfon, who vi-
fited thefe iflands on his return from Senegal in 1753, fays that the
Peak is about half a league in perpendicplar height; the common
French league being 2450 toifes, the height would on this fuppofition
* See Thevenot’s Colleétion, vol. iv, for the voyage of De Chafte, “The celebrated
Herrera alfo gave a feparate hiftory of thefe tranfactions, Madrid, 1591, 4te.
t See this voyage in Hakluyt, vol, ii, or in Aftley's colledtion,
240 | PORTUGAL.
be very moderate, not exceeding 7350 feet. In the views which a¢
company the French map, the Peak rifes from the fea in the thape of
a bell. This ifland is faid to produce excellent wine.
The Peak of the Azores would form a very convenient firft meridia
of longitude, inftead of the various and confufed diftinGtions recent!
adopted ; and which feem rather to ie in national vanity, than ;
any juft principles of the fcience, which they greatly tend to obfcure
Itfelf a moft remarkable obje&, and placed near the weftern extremity
of Europe, no fituation could be preferable for this important purpofe
which would tend fo much to throw a clear and univerfal light on geoe
i! ica pofitions,
n general the Azores are mountainous, and in to earthquake
and violent winds; yet they produce wheat, wine, fruits, and abundanc
of wood. The chief is Tercera (whence they are fometimes flvledin
Terceras *), being 15 leagues in circumference. The capital town ig
Angra, on the S.E. fide of Tercera, with a harbour defended by af
fortrefs, in which refides the governor of the Azores. Angra is q
bifhopric, with fome handfome churches, particularly that of the Cor
deliers ; and there are two other monatteries, and four nunnerics +,
According to M. Adanfon, the harbour of Fayal prefents a beay
tiful amphitheatre, clothed with trees ; the town has 5000 inhabitants,
but may be faid to confift of convents: the governor is flyled Capitan
mor. The climate and foil are excellent, there being no occafion for fire
in the winter, The trees are walnuts, chefnuts, white poplars, and par.
ticularly the arbutus or ftrawberry tree, whence the name, for Fayal in
the Portuguefe implies a flrawberry t. Cattle, &c. abound : set almof
@ Terceras and Azores are of the fame impart. Tercera is the Tiercel of our falconry
(Note eam gg sin Fe. tr.) he rightly placed ch
. * Bufching in his Geography, (tii. 590. Fr. tr. fri laced the Azores after the!
defeription of I Portugal; but he errs while he inciudes Melein in the fame defeription, ad
coniidering that the latter is far nearer to the coaft of Africa than to that of Europe, and t
eral rule is to afcribe the ifles to the neareft continent. Nor is his argument, that the
zores belong to Furope beeaufe the chief town Angra fends a deputy to the affembly of
the flates of Portugal, ike the other towne of the kingdom, very cogent, as fome of th
Ruffian governments include portions of Afia and Europe.
The defcription of Bufching isin his ufual prolix and feeble manner, he being dry cox
piler incapable of Sising Ieeereing circumftances, but fome bints may be extracted,
The Azores have alfo been called the Flamengas, or Flemith Iflands, having been
nized by that people. St. Michel, the moft populous, is faid to contain $1,500 fouls, be
fides 1399 — The produce of wheat and millet is very confiderable, and that of
wine computed at 5000 pipes. ‘Ihéfe particulars Bufching feems to have drawn {rom
the Hiftorical Geography of Portugal, by Don Luiz Caetano de Lima, 1754, 6, folin
The chief town of St. Michel is Ponta Dalgada, which has 1679 houfes, three churches
and feven convents. The next town is Villafranca. The new ifle, whieh arofe in 172
between St. Michel and Tercera, has fince difappeared, Tercera is fo called, becaufe it
the third ifle which was difcovered. The epilcopal city of Angra has a confiderable
on the eaft of which is a mountain called Braz‘, a name probably given by the mariners fro
a fuppofed ifle called Brazil, arbitrarily placed in the weitern ocean in fume old maps.
isa neatcity, the refidence of the governor-general fince the year 1766, and contain f
churches befidca the cathedral. Pico carries on a confiderable trade in wine, which
to be fold as Canary, ‘The chief town of Fayal is Horta or Huerta probably conned
with a name ae ne hag a : ,
2 In Portuguefe (fee the difionary of ), & flrawberry is morango. In the fom
Saya iseadeech uee, and fayal a plece where beech trees » whence he {heci
ally fays is derived the naine of Fayad, an ifland of the Azores, fo called from the numixt
of Leech trees growing in it. The ashutus is metronho, fo. that ow euthor mult be ai
taken in bis etymology,
je only
nther mo:
mption v
dlother P
Names. -
g
P
Names. ]
eral appell
ad the chie
theeaft; th
After the fz
acral poir
Ce a al
Burgundia,
stir ard
wins of Jur
inheritances
burg, after
tion in the b
ws which ac
the fhape of
firft meridia
Lions recent!
anity, than j
id to obfcure,
tern extremity
rtant purpofe,
light on geo
to earthquake
and abundance
netimes itvledim
capital town i
defended by aim
Angra is 3
at of the Cor
nneries +.
refents a beau
00 inhabitants,
3 flyled Capitam
occafion for fire
oplars, and par
ey for Fayal in
ind: sct almof
el of our falconry
= affembly of
nt, as fome of the
SWISSERLAND. 271
jeonly birds are a kind of blackbirds, fpeckled with white. Fayal is
nike mountainous, and there is a volcano near the centre, but the laft
motion was 1672. It isto be regretted that thefe interefting ifles, like
jlother Portuguefe fettlements, are almoft unknown *.
SWISSERLAND.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Nemes. Extent. —Boundaries.—Iv'vifions.—Original Population—Pre-
greffive Geography. —Hiflorical Epochs and Antiquities.
HE provinces now known by the collective name of
Manes. ] Swifferland, were, in ancient peat, jel el by fe-
eral appellations. By the Romans they were regarded as a part of Gaul ;
githechiet poffeffors were the Helvetii on the welt, and the Rheti on
heeatt; the chief city of the Helvetians being Aventicum, now Avenche.
After the fall of the Roman empire, this intcrefting country may, in a
neral point of view, be rout beet as pofleffed by the Alemanni on the
at, who alfo held Suaisia nd Alface ; and on the weft, as a part of
burgundia, the inhabitan.: 9, ftyled Burgundi trans Jurenfes, becaufe,
mthregardto France, th , «v2 fituated on the other fide of the moun-
ins of Jura f. Divided among feveral lords, fecular and {piritual, the
iheritances of the former at length chiefly centered in the houfe of Hapf-
burg, afterwards the celebrated et of Auftria ; and, on its emancipae
tim in the beginning of the fourteenth century, firft appeared the modern
denomination of Swifferland, either derived from the canton of Schweitz,
ditinguifhed in that revolution, or from the general name of Schweitzers,
baby the Auftrians to this alpine people. For the fake of precifion,
modern writers reftri€ the orthography of Schweitz and Schweitzer to the
canton; while the general appellation for the people is the Swifs, and for
the country Switzerland, or Swifferland.
Extent. ] In length from eaft to weft, Swifferland extends about 200
Bitih miles, and in breadth, from north to fouth, about 130. The
contents in {quare miles have been eftimated at 14960: but the greater
prtis loft to human induftry, confifting of vaft rocks, partly covered with
¢emal ice and fnow. Even of this country the boundaries are rather arbi-
inry than natural ; though on the v-eft mount Jura forms a grand divifion
fom France ; and on the fouth the Pennine Alps, a partial barrier from
Iuly. On the eaft lies the Auftrian territory of Tyrol, and on the north
! Suabia, containing, as it were, an excrefvence of Swifferland on the
her fide of the Rhine, the {mall canton of Schaffhaufen.
Divisions. The Swifs league, before the French invafion, confifted
® According to M. Kerguelen, (Voyage dan la mer du Nord, Paris 1771, 4to. p. 161.)
here really exifts an ifle, or rather large rock, called Rokol, in lat. 57° 50! long. 16° W. of
is; that is about five degree, S. W. of St. Kilda s another remove particle of Rurope,
t D'Anville, Ktaw torm, eh l'Europe, p. 19, 99,
“ i of
272 SWISSERLAND.
of thirteen independent confederated cantons and their fubjeéts and allies
according to the following lift. ; :
t. Canton of Berne, with the Pays de Vaud.
2. Canton of Friburg.
3. Canton of Bafel.
4 Canton of Soleure.
5- Canton of Schaffhaufen.
6. Canton of Zurich.
7. Canton of Appenzel.
§. Canton of Lucerne.
g. Canton of Zug.
10. Canton of Schweitz.
11. Canton of Underwald.
12. Canton of Uri.
* 13. Canton of Glaris.
14. Principality of Neufchatg] (fubjeét to Pruffia).
15. Bithoprick of Bafle.
16. County of Baden.
17. The free Bailliages.
18. Turgovia.
1g. Tokenburg.
20. The Rhinthal.
21. Lands of the Abbey of St. Gal.
22. Country of the Grifons,
23. Valteline.
24. Italian Bailliagés.
25. The Vallais. ' 7
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population 4s thought to have
been Celtic, yet it would be difficult, either from hiftory or from ancient
appellations, to trace the refidence of the Celts in Swifferland ; and there
is every reafon, on the contrary, to believe that the Helvetians were a
Gothic race, a very ancient colony of Germans.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. } The progreffive geography of Swifferland
may be traced with confiderable pa from the contelt of Cxfar
with the Helvetians, through the claffic, Francic and native hiftorians, to
the prefent time.
IsTORICAL EPOCHS.] The chief hiftorical epochs may be arranged
in the following order : ‘
1. The wars with the Romans; the fubjugation of the Helvctii and
hope. and the fubfequent events till the decline of the Roman empire it
the weit.
2. The irruption of the Alemanni in the pei ioe, of the fourth
century, who are by fome fuppofed to have extirpated the ancient Hel
vetians.
3. The fubjugation of the weltern part of Swifferland as far as th
river Reufs by the Franks, who annexed that portion to Burgundy
The Grifons on the ealt were fubjeét to Theodoric, and other kings
Ye
4- The converfion of the country to Chriftianity by the Irith monks Cc
lumbanus, Gallus, and others, in the beginning of the feventh century.
gth. The invalion of Alemannia by the Huns*, in the year gog
® The Ugur, fo called by the writers of the time. They were a branch of the Vogul
@ Finnih ree,
a
ferenteet
u. T
1798.
ae
ous, COF
Vinderni:
the ancie
churches,
abbey of
orfour cl
numents
to extend
Religion.
ReLiGroy
former pe
founded tl
thurn, pa
and one
or pref
with Zui
aufen, th
The count
the thirtee
count of ii
~ amoun
, an nera
anlieais
Gover)
theme of d
cerne, and
and the in
century, w:
tulogy on
induenced |
SWISSERLAND. } 278
yd the fubfequent contefts with thefe barbarians till the middle of that
; uU vr. .
. About the year 1030 the provinces which now conftitute Swiffer.
ind began to be regarded asa part of the empire of Germany} and in
the courfe of two centuries they gradually became fubject to the houfe of
apfburg’. ; .
” The commencement of the Swifs emancipation, A. D. 1307; and
the fubfequent ftruggles with the houfe of Auttria.
§, The gradual increafe of the confederacy; the Burgundian and Sua-
tian wars ; and the contefts with the French in Italy.
, The hiftory ofthe reformation in Swifferland.
10. The infurrreétion of the peafants of Bern, in the middle of the
frenteenth century.
11. The diffolution of the confederacy by the French invafion, A. D.
&s and allies,
1080
iS TIQUITIES.] The ancient monuments of Swifferland are not nume-
rus, confifting chiefly of a few remains of the Romans, at Aventicum and
Vinderniffa. Some alfo occur at Ebrodunum, or Yverdun, and at Baden,
the ancient Thermz Helvetice. Of the middle ages are many ca‘tles,
churches, and monafteries; the moft noble among the latter. being the
ibbey of St. Gal, the library of which fupplied the manufcripts of three
orfour claffical authors, no where elfe to be found. Some interefting mo-
numents relate to the emancipation of the country, and have contributed
toextend the fpirit of freedom from generation to generation.
CHAPTER II.
thought to have
or from ancient
land ; and there
Relvetians were a
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Riigion—Ecclefapical Geography.—Government.—Laws.— Population.—
, ya olitical Importance and fb
y of Swifferland
ntelt of Cafar
ive hiftorians, to
HE religion of the Swife countries is in fome the
Ruscion.] J Roman” Catholic, in others the Reformed. Of the
former perfuafion are Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, cantons which
founded the liberty of the country, with Zug, Lucerne, Friburg, Solo-
thurn, part of Glarus, and Appenzel. In thefe are found fix bifhopricks,
and one metropolitan fee. The reformed cantons are of the Calviniftic
or prefbyterian perfuafion, being the rich and extenfive canton of Berne,
with Zurich, Bafel, or according to the French enunciation Bafle, Schaff-
hufen, the greateft part of Glarus, and fome portions of Appenzel.
The country of the Grifons is chiefly proteftant ; and Vallais, an ally of
the thirteen cantons, has been the f{cene of atrocious perfecutions on ac-
count of its difaffeétion from the Catholic faith; but the inhabitants, to
the amount of about 100,000, now profefs the Roman Catholic fyftem.
In general the two perfuafions live in the moft amiable unity and
moderation.
Government.] The government of Swifferland has been a fertile
theme of difcuffion, The moft powerful cantons of Berne, Zurich, Lu-
cene, and Friburg, had retained much of the feudal ariftocratic form ;
and the infurreétion of the peafants, in the middle of the feventeenth
century, unites, with repeated difcontents, to convey no high practical
tulogy on the conftitution, as thefe fimple and honeft vaflals were not
induenced by theories of ene acted folely from their owa anlage
0
may be arranged
the Helvetii and
Roman empire it
of the fourth
Ah
e ancient Hel
nd as far as th
n to Burgundy
d other kings
» Trith monks C
venth century.
in the year 909
ranch of the Voz
|
274, SWISSERLAND.
of oppreffion. In the eye of the moft.candid obfervers the arjf..
had degenerated into a vane oligarchy, more intent on Seer
lucrative government of the bailliages than on the promotion of the :
neral advantage. ‘'he other cantons were more democratic: byt chi
recent fubverfion of the government by the French has for fome diss
reduced Swifferland to a depenvent province, with new divifions and .
rangements, The laws of courfe partook of the nature of the govern.
ment of each canton.; and under the ariftocracies were fufficiently jealous
and fevere. Yet Swifferland was one of the happieft countries in Euro e
and recommended itfelf to the mott intelligent obfervers equally by tick
and by phytical grandeur and beauty.
Porutation.; The population of this interefting country is generally
computed at 2,000, 00 *, er about 130 to the fquare mile. But fo large
a portion is uninhabitable, that on a fubtraétion of fuch parts the number
might be about 200 to the fquare mile.
Army.] The military force was reckoned at about 20,000; but in &
the late ftruggle with France this force appears to have been divided, and §
little effe€tual. The Swifs regiments in foreign fervice were computed
at 29; but they returned weakened in frame and morals, and feldom
proved ferviceable to the ftate. The permiffion to ferve in foreign
countries has been loudly biamed as a moral deformity ; but when we
confider the poverty and population of Swifferland, we may conceive that
the want of native refources confpired with the ambition and curiofity
interwoven with the charaéter of man, to ftimulate the youth to this path
of inftruction and preferment, while the government only connived with
the national with.
- Revenve.] The ruinous effeéts of French extortion cannot be dj.
vined, but the revenue of Swifferland was formerly computed at fome.
what more than a million fterling, arifing from moderate taxation, from
tolls, national domains, and foreign fubfidies. ‘The cantons of Bern and
Zurich were confidered as opulent, while in others the refources hardly
equalled the expenditure.
. POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] The political importance
and relations of Swifferland are immerged in thofe of the French republic,
Should the Swifs emancipate their country, their chief objeét would be
Hg ips againft the power of France ; and in this view nothing could
e fo ferviceable as a ftri& alliance with Auftria.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.— Language.— Literature. — Education.— Univerfitia.
— Cities and Towns. —Edifices.——Roads.—Inland Navigation.— Maw
Saaures and Commerce.
MIDST the general corruption of
Manwers ane cusToMs. ] manners, thofe” of the Suite have
long excited applaufe, from their moral uniformity and frank indepen.
dence. The houfes are generally conftruéted of wood, in the mott fimple
form, with ftair-cafes on the outfide; yet their appearance fingularly
coincides with the pi€turefque character of the country. The drefs of the
* The evumeration of 1901 only gave 1,499,000,— MF uldnaer, '
ower
lower f
there a1
chffestl
hut it m
ral the §
country
etiftenc
by the r
called th
went to
rough S
This inc
tothe e1
fom the
with Al
Beng
werful
ies
but the E
thors,
and other
tongue.
haben w
from the
Rhone, hi
begins to
part of tl
cilled the
Piedmont
Liters
ufual, of
and the re
athe refo
hmfelf O
who publi
and that n¢
may be nay
clzer, the
pher ; Sole
phyficians
phyfiogno
DUCA
illuttrated b
prife at the
rafon to j
univerfity
colleges at
Cities
svilerland
Wil engage
This heh
Rhine, here
horthern co
he ariftocracy
procuring the
ion of the ges
atic: but the
for fome time
nfions and ar.
f the gevern.
ciently jealous
ies in Europe,
ually by moral
ry 18 generally
But fo lage
rts the number
10,000 but in §
en divided, and §
vere computed
Is, and feldom
rve in foreign
; but when we
1y conceive that
1 and curiofity
uth to this path
> connived with
n cannot be di-
nputed at fome-
taxation, from
ons of Bern and
efources hardly
ical importance
rench republic,
object would be
y nothing could
n.— Univerfitie
jgation.— Maw
corruption of
e Swifs have
frank indepen
the mott fimple
rance fingularly
he drefs of the
lower
SWISSERLAND.
275
wer ranks is little fubject to the laws of fafhion, and in many cantons
there are regulations to prevent idle ornament. Among the fuperior
cafesthe manners may be confidered as partly German, and partly French :
tutit maybe imagined that at ppretoot the latter preponderate. In gene-
althe Swifs are remarkable for an intenfe attachment to their native
guntry ; and there are few who do not return there to terminate their
aitence. This impreffion is almoft irrefiftible, and liable to be awakened
ty the moft minute circumftances. Hence in the French armies the tune
alled the Rance des Vaches, often fung by the Swifs milkmaids when they
rat to the paftures, was carefully interdi€ted, becaufe it melted the
ugh Swifs foldier into tears, and feldom failed to produce defertion.
This inconquerable paffion feems to arife in part from a moral fenfibility
wo the enchanting eafe and franknefs of the native manners; and in part
from the ohdemelnye features of the country, the verdant hills contrafted
wth Alpine fnows, and delicious vales watered by tranfparent ftreams =
(enes no where elfe to be difcerned in fuch perfection, and which mufl
werfully affect the imagination, the parent of the paffions. :
LanGuAGE. ] The language of Swifferland is a dialeé&t of the German ;
hit the French is much ‘futed, and is oftea employed by their beft
authors. Inthe moft fouthern parts, bordering on Italy, the Valteline,
ad other territories acquired from Milan, the Italian is the common
tongue. Among the Grifons in Engadina, and in fome other parts, is
inten what is called the Romanefh, whieh feems immediately derived
fom the Latin. The Vallais or that part of Swifferland watered by the
Rhone, has alfo a particular diale& : and at the city of Sion the French
begins to be {poken, as it is alfo the prevalent language in that beautiful
rt of the canton of Berne called the Pays de Vaud. The language
alled the Vaudois appears to have been confined to the valleys of
Piedmont.
LitgRATURE. ] The early monuments of Swifs literature confift, as
uual, of chronicles and lives of faints. Since the reftoration of letters,
ind the reformation of religion, Swifferland boafts of many eminent names,
athe reformer Ulric Zwingli, born at Wildhaufen; Herbfk, who called
himfelf Oporinus, the printer ; Conrad Gefner, born at Zurich in 1516,
vho publifhed an univerfal library, and fome treatifes on natural hiftory ;
wd that noted quack Paracelfus. Among the writers of the laft century
my be named Bernouilli, the mathematician, a native of Bafel; Scheu-
clzer, the natural hiftorian ; Haller ; John Gefner, the natural philofo-
pher; Solomon Gefner, the poet; Bonnet, Hierzel, and Zimmerman,
phyficians; Rouffeau, and Necker, nativcs of Geneva; Lavater, the
phyfiognomift ; Euler the mathematician ; and many others.
Epucation.] The important fubje&t of education has been little
iluttrated by the travellers into Swifferland ; but as they teftify their fur-
prife at the knowledge generally prevalent among the peafantry, there is
rafon to infer that this ufeful province is not negleéted. There is an
univerfity of fome reputation at Geneva; and another at Bafel; with
colleges at Berne, Zurich, and Lucerne.
Citizs AND Towns.] In enumerating the chief cities and towns of
§wifferland, according to the comparative ftandard of population, Bafel
will engage the firit attention, being fuppofed to contain 14,000 fouls.
This venerable city ftands in a pleafant fituation upon the banks of the
Rhine, here broad, deep, and rapids and fuddenly turning to its lon
northern courfe, after a previous weltern direGion *, Bald crowns bot
e Coxe, i 149
Ta
banke,
276 SWISSERLAND.
banks, and is united by a bridge. In the middle ages this city way
tamed Bafula, and appears in hiflory foon after the age of Charlema ne
The cathedral is an ancient Gothic edifice, containing the tomb of the
great Evafmus; and the univerfity has produced many illuftrious men,
Berne muft claim the next rank to Bafel, poffeffing a population of
about 13,000*. This city is of i, Sa neatnefs and beauty, the ftreets
being broad and tong, and the houfes of grey Hove refting on arcades, §
‘There are feveral ftreams and fountains; and the river Aar almoft fur.
rounds the city. The adjacent country is rich and fertile; and the
profpect of hills, lawns, wood and water, is bounded at a diftance }
the long chain of the fuperior Alps, rifing like fnowy clouds above the
horizon. Berne contains feveral libraries «..d collections of natural
curiofities.
Zurich is the third in rank among the Swifs cities, fituated on a lar
lake, amidft a populous and fertile country, which produces abundance
of wine for domeftic confumption. The college and plans of edy.
cation are refpectable ;. and the public library contains fome curious!
manufcripts. '
Laufanne contains about gooo inhabitants, and is defervedly celebrated
for the beauty of its fituation, though in fome fpots deep and rugged,
‘The church is a magnificent Gothic building, having been a cathefr,
while the Pays du Vaud was fubje& to the houfe of Savoy.
The other chief towns are St. Gal, an ally of Swifferland, under the
former government ; Mulhaufen, alfo an ally ; Geneva, a city of 2 $,000
inhabitants, has been affigned to France. Fribourg and Schaffhaufen
contain each about 6000 inhabitants; Lucerne, Solothurn, and Einfredlen,
about 5000 cach. Few of the others exceed 3000.
EpiFices.} The chief edifices of Swifferland are in the cities; and
there are few examples of magnificent buildings erected
wealth or opulence. Inland navigation is partly interdiéted by th
mountainous nature of the country, partly rendered unneceflary by nu
merous rivers. -
CoMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.}] Commerce and manufactures d
not much flourifh in this inland region. Cattle conftitute the chief pro
duce of the country ; and fome of the cheefe forms an export of luxury
The chief linen manufaCtures were at St. Gal. Printed cottons, and
watches, alfo form confiderable articles of fale, nor are filk man
unknown in Swifferland.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture Riven
— Lakes. — Mountains. —Forefts. —Botany.——Z oology.— Mineralogy.
Mineral Waters.—Natural Curiofiies.
HE climate of Swifferland is defervedl
celebrated as falubrious and delightful
From its fouthern pofition confiderable heat might be expected; bu
this, though fufficient to mature the grapes is attempercd by the col
gales fromthe Alps and glaciers. When the fun defcends beyond Mou
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ]
* Coxe, id. 226.
Jur
Swiffer
0us p
fmble
richly ¥
wttage
at
Font
of the §
helterec
does no
SWISSERLAND. any
this city was
Charlemagne,
» tomb of the
iftrious men,
_ population of
uty, the ftreets
ing on arcades, §
var almoft fur.
rtile ; and the
ta diftance by
louds above the
tions of natural
ju, on @ fummer evening, the Alpine fummits long reflect the ruddy
iplendour and the lakes for near an hour affume the appearance of bure
nied gold. ‘The winter is however in fome parts extremely fevere 5
uithe f{ummer heat in the deep vales fometimes oppreflive.
FACE OF THE COUNTRY.} ‘The face of the country is generally moune
pinous, the moft level parts being the Thurgau, and a part of the cantons
{Bafel, Berne, Zurich, Schaffhaufen, Soleure, and Friburg. Even thefe
prefent what in fome countries would be called mountains, from 2000 ta
100 feet above the level of the fea. No country in the world exceeds
swifferland in diverfity of appearance. The vaft chain of Alps with enor
nus precipices, exteafive regions of perpetual fnow, and glaciers that re-
imble feas of ice, are contraited by the vineyard, and cultivated field, the
icily wooded brow, and the verdant and tranquil vale, with its happy
tages and cryftal ftream. Agriculture cannot of courfe be carried ta
at extent ; but there is no dete of induftry, and the grain feems fuf-
et for domettic confumption. ¢ Barley is cultivated even to the edge
(the glaciers ; oats in regions a little warmer ; rye in thofe fti!l more
feltered ; and fpelt in the warmett parts. Yet in general the produce
a
uated on a large
Juces abundance
d plans of edu.
ins fome curious!
rvedly celebrated jes not exceed five for ones; and it has been neceflary to fupport
eep and reget nblic granaries in cafe of any deficiency. For the country being pe
been a cathedral, dpally deftined by nature for pafturage, the chief dependence of the
§rifs is upon his cattle, and the number being extraordinary, much land
hid out in winter forage, which might otherwife be produtive of corn *,,
Acouiderable quantity of flax is alfo cultivated ; and tobacco has been
ely introduced. ‘T'he beft vines are thofe of the Pays de Vaud, the
antons of Berne, and Schaffhaufen, the Valteline, and the Vallais. There
jsalfo abundance of fruits, apples, pears, plums, cherries, filberts ; with
nulberries, peaches, figs, pomegranates, lemons, and other products of a
yamer climate, in thofe ditrides which border upon Italy. The Vallais
ilo produces faffron.
But pafturage forms the chief province of the Swifs farm; and the
nealows are often watered to increafe the produce of hay. In the be-
ming of fummer the cattle are conducted to the acceflfible parts of the
Alps by cow-herds, who either account to the proprietor for the pros
duce, or agree for a certain fum. Thefe herds alfo fupport many {wine
wth the butter-milk and other refufe. Scheuchzer, in his firft journey
tothe Alps, defcribes the numerous preparations of milk, which form
the varied luxuries of the {wains.
Rivers.] The rivers of Swifferland are numerous ; and among the
noltfublime fcenes of this country mutt be claffed the fources of the
Rhine and Rhone, two of the moft important ttreams in Europe. If
weeltimate their length of courfe through the Swifs dominions, the
Rhine is the moft confiderable ; and is followed by the Aar, the Reufs,
the Limmat, the Rhone, and the Thur.
The Rhine rifes in the country of the Grifons, froma glacier upon the
fummit of mount Bedus or Badur, at the head of av ey, about nine
gues in length, called the Rhinewald+. This mountain and valley
tlittle vifited, even by the Swifs, and the upper part prefents dread~
uldeferts of ice and fnow, through which the ftream defcends, fome-
imes vifible, fometimes working a hidden track beneath frozen arches.
The celebrated Sauffure {, than whom there cannot be a higher authoe
voy.
ferland, under the
, a city of 25,000
-and Schaffhaufen
rn, and Einfredlen,
in: the cities; and
rected by men 0
terdicted by th
nneceflary by nus
d manufactures de
ute the chief pro
export of luxury.
intede cottons, aud
e filk manufac
sricullurev- Rivet
by. —— Mineraligy.
erland is defervedl
jous and delightful
be expected; b
pered by the col
ends beyond Mow
*Bufching, xiv. 19,
+ Coxe, iii, 249, Bourrit, Defcript. des Glaciers, tom. lil, p. 62,
; Voyage duns les Alpes, tom. vii. Pp. 72. 8vo,
T 3
Ju
278 SWISSERLAND.
rity on thefe topics, informs us that the farther Rhine, which he {y molt c
pofes to be fo called becaufe it is neareft to Germany, arifes from a chan 6,W.
of mountains at the head of the valley of Difentis, called Crifpalt, while iciat
their higheft point is ftyled Badur: that the middle Rhine wieceeds fyled
from the valley of Medelo, an appendage of St. Gothard: and thefe in the {
two torrents united receive a third from mount Avicula, ‘called in French ig rema
the Upper Rhine, and in German the Hinter Rhein, for in fome French The
maps the names are inverted*. The height is here about 6185 feet miles in
above the fea. From its fource the Rhine pervades or borders Swiffer. ke ha
land, for about the fpace of 200 Britith atlas, running N.E. to the lake § created
of Conftance, whence it bends W. to Bafel; where it begins its Jon Only
northern courfe. 8 Swiffer!
The Aar arifes in the Alp called Grimfel +, but there is a farther that re
fource in the environs of that terrible fummit ftyled the Schrekhorn, and five mile
another from the glaciers of Finfteraar : bending its courfe to the N.W, 1s in le
till it arrive near Bihan it afterwards turns N.E. receives the Reufs the lake
and the Limmat, and.joins the Rhine oppofite to Waldfhut, after fines; t
courfe of about 150 Britifh miles. and othe
The Reufs, which divides Swifferland into two almoft equal parts, Mou:
eaftern arid weftern, {prings from the lake of Lucendro + on the NW. Europe,
of St. Gothard. This lake is long and narrow, the upper part being fur. § South A
rounded with black precipices, {potted with eternal fnow; while the plain,
lower prefents a little verdant plain. From the other fide of St. Go. circular !
thard rifes the Italian ftream of the Tefino, which flows into the Po not tains the
far below Pavia, The Reufs joins the Aar, after a courfe of about 8 the N. o
Britifh miles, and mod
The Limmat is compofed of two ftreams, the Linth, which rifes in the appellati
S. of the canton of Glarus, and the Mat §, which {prings in the country ra
ciently n
of rae 8 About ten miles after their junétion, the Limmat enters the 5
Uza.
lake of Zurich, whence it flows about 20 Britifh miles before it join the
Aar. On the banks of the Limmat commenced that dreadful confié of
the French againft the Auftrians and Ruffians, which extended down thofe
of the Reufs, the line of battle being faid to have reached for go miles;
while for fifteen fucceffive days the whole region feemed enveloped in fire
and {moke ||.
The Rhone, a noble ftream, can “7 be regarded as a Swifs river prior
to its entering the lake of Geneva, after a courfe of about go Britih
miles through that extenfive vale called the Vallais. This river rifes in
mount Furca, the fource being rather warm, and about 5400 feet above
the fea. Yet in truth this fource joins a more confiderable {tream, from
an extenfive glacier called that of the Rhone, where the majettic river-god
refides in his palace of arches formed under perpetual ice **,
The Thur, a moderate current, rifes inthe S. of the county of Token.
berg, and purfues a N.W. direétion to the Rhine. Other confiderable
ftreams are the Sanu, and the Emme, ye eal the Aar ; the Irm, which
commences his majettic progrefs in the Grifons ; the Adda, which waters
the Valteline, and falls into the lake of Como; and the Tofs and Glatt,
which join the Rhine.
Lakgs.] The lakes of Swifferland are numerous and interefting. The
the foura
mountai
The ca
into two
eat. T
1 {picuous
lis, the G
Schreckk
and fome
laciers
8 been
tant rive
*Mr. Coxe, and Bourrit, have confounded the Upper and Lower Rhine. Se
Weiffe’s map,
+ Coxe, i. 942. ¢ Sawffure, vii. 44. § Weifs calls this river the Senez, cannot b
{| New Annual Regifter, 1799, p. 447. This conflict fpread in breadely frum the Reif obfervati
tothe Rhine. In Myttenthall, to the eaft of Schweitz, Suwasrof'was defeated. elevation
** Sauffure, vi. 284, &c.
moh
vhich he fup-
es froma chain
Srifpalt, while
thine proceeds
‘d: and thefe
alled in French
in fome French
bout 6180 feet |
orders Swiffer. §
E. to the lake
begins its long §
re is a farther
chrekhorn, and
fe to the N.W,
ives the Reufs
aldfhut, after a
ft equal parts,
on the N.W,
part being fur. §
ow ; while the
ide of St. Go.
into the Po not
rfe of about 80
vhich rifes in the
s in the country
immat enters the
efore it join the
padful confié of
nded down thofe
1 for go miles;
enveloped in fire
Swifs river prior
SWISSERLAND. 279
not confiderable are thofe of Conftance on the N.E., and Geneva on the
Ww. The former is about 45 Britifh miles in length, and in fome places
icin breadth. ‘This beautiful expanfe of water is by the Germans alfo
fyled the Boden Zee. Like all the other lakes of Swifferland, it is deeper
i, the fummer than in the winter, owing to the melting of the fnows, and
remarkable for producing large red trout.
The lake of Geneva extends, in the form of acrefcent, about 40 Britifh
niles in length, and nine at its greateft breadth. The beauties of this
ke have been celebrated by Rouffeau; but would be confiderably in-
eeafed if it were {prinkled with iflands.
Only a part of the lake Maggiore, or that of Locarno, is fubje& to
Swiferland ; but the lake of Lugano forms an extenfive body of water in
tht region. ‘The lakes of Neufchatel and Zurich are each about twenty-
fre miles in length, by about four in breadth. That of Lucerne is about
1s in length, and the breadth no where above three. Next to thefe are
the lakes of Thun and Brientz ; of Joux and Roufs, on the French cone
fnes; the lakes of Morat and-Bienne, of Sempach, Zug, Wallenftadt,
adothers of inferior note.
MounTAINS. ] The mountains of Swifferland are the moft celebrated in
Europe, and are fuppofed to yield in height to none, except thofe of
South America, which derive their advantage from ftanding on an elevated
ain. Ina general point of view the Alps extend, in a kind of femi-
circular form, frem the gulph of Genoa through Swifferland, which con-
ins their centre and higheft parts ; and terminate in the Carnic Alps on
the N. of the Adriatic fea, This grand chain of mountains has, in ancient
ad modert. times, been divided into different portions, known by diftin&
appellations. The maritime Alps are thofe which arife from the gulph
of Genoa. Mount Genevre, whence {prings the river Durance, was an-
ciently named the Alpis Cottia, from Cottius, a prince who refided at
Suza. Farther to the N. were the Alpes Graiz, now the little St. Ber-
nad. The Alpes Pennine confifted of the great St. Bernard, Mont
Blanc, and the
N. of modern Piedmont : the eaftern part being alfo ftyled the Lepon-
tine Alps, from a people who inhabited that region which gives origin
tothe Rhone and Tefino.
Grifons and Tyrol, terminating in the Carnic, or Julian Alps.
and chain extending on the S. of the Rhone to the
The Rhetian Alps extended through the
That
chain which pervades Swifferland, from mount Santez in the S.W. toe
wards the fources of the Irm on the N.E. was known by the appella-
tion of the Helvetian Alps. Some writers admit of more minute divi-
fions, as the Tridentine Alps above Trent ; and the Noric Alps above
the fource of the river Tagliamento. The extent of this vaft courfe of
mountains may he computed at about 550 Britifh miles.
The central part of this magnificent chain may be confidered as divided
into two ridges, running almuit parallel from the fouth-weft to the northe
eat. The firit ridge ia that of the Helvetian Alps, of which the moft con-
1 {picuous fummits are the Gemmi or Guemmi, the Schelenhorn, the Blum-
lis, the Giefhorn, the Jungfrau or Virginhorn, the Eiger, the tremendous
Schreckhorn, or peak of horror, the Grimfel, the Furca; the extenfive
and fomewhat devious ridges of mount St. Gothard, the Badur, and the
pens to the north of the farther Rhine. .Of this chain the St. Gothard
s been long confidered as one of the principal fummits, becaufe impor-
tant rivers run from its vicinity in every dire€tion ; but this circumftance
cannot be admitted to argue for its fuperior height, after the accurate
obfervations of Sauffure ; and rivers often {pring trom an inconfiderable
elevation, paffing in the aimee between high mountains, ‘The Jungfrau
moh 4 ems
about go Britih
his river rifes in
5.400 feet above
Able ftream, from
ajeltic river-god
e #H,
ounty of Token.
ther confiderable
; the Irm, which
dda, which waters
Tofs and Glatt,
i interefting. The
Lower Rhine. Se
is river the Senez.
veadth’ frum the Reuf
defeated.
4
' 286 SWISSERLAND.
feems the moft elevated mountain of this chain ; and to the weft are feveral
inacceffible peaks. Next in elevation feem to be the Eiger and the
Schreckhorn *, The fummits confift of granite, and the fides difclofe
red flate, and calcareous maffes. In general the granite appears in the
fouth, and the calcareous fuperpofitions on the north. - To the fouth are
large deferts and glaciers; and on the north is the romantic lake of Kan.
del Steig, whence there is faid to have been a paflage to Lauterbry,
amidft fingular glaciers, fometimes refembling magical towns of iis,
with pilaftres, pyramids, columns, and obelifks, reflecting to the fun
the moft brilliant hues of the fineit gems.
The fouthern chain of the central Alps rather belongs to the north
of Italy than to Swifferland. It extends from mount Blanc and fome
eminences farther te the weft, and embraces the great St. Bernard, the
Weifch, mouht Cervin, and mount Rofa. Paffing to the north of the
lakes of Locarno and Como, under the names of Vogelberg, St. Bernar.
dine, Albula, Bernini, &c. it ftretches into Tyrol, terminating in the
Brunner, or Rheztian Alps on the S. of the Irm, This fecond chain has
been ably illuftrated by Sauffure, who vifited the fummit of mount Blanc, §
the greateft elevation on the ancient continent, being 15,662 feet above
the fevel of the fea. In his laft journey Sauffure alfo vifited mount Rofa,
which yields only fixty feet in height to mount Blanc, being about mid.
way between great St. Bernard and the lake of Locarno, where our maps
place a non-exiltence called mount Moro, to the N. of Macugnaga, in the
wale of Anzafca. Yet fome entertain doubts whether the tremendous,
and hitherto inacceffible, heights of the northern chain do nat exceed
thofe meafured by Sauffure, and they certainly prefent fufficient objects
for the ambition of future travellers.
It was referved for this age of enterprize to difclofe the fecret wonders
of the fuperior Alps. The enormous ridges clothed with a depth of per.
petual {now, often crowned with fharp obelifks of granite ftyled by the
Swifs horns or needles ; the dreadful chafms of fome thoufand feet in per.
pendicular height, over which the dauntlefs traveller fometimes ftands, on
a fhelf of frozen {now ; the glaciers, or feas of ice, fometimes extendin
thirty or forty miles in length, the faered filence of the fcenes before
unvifited, except by the chamois and goat of the rocks ; the clouds, and
fometimes the thunder-ftorm, pafling at a great diftance below ; the ex.
tenfive profpecéts, which reduce kingdoms as it were to a map § the pure
elafticity of the air, exciting a kind of incorporeal fenfation ; are all novel.
ties in the hiftory of human adventure.
With regard to the conftitution of thefe grand chains, we learn from
Sauffure that the higheft fummits confift of a large-grained white granite;
and fometimes hornblende, {charl, garnets, or pyrites, are inter{perfed,
Beneath, and incumbent on the granite, efpecially towards the N. appear
large maffes of flate, which are followed by exterior chains of high
calcareous mountains, and on the fouta by others of talcous rocks,’
Botany. } Swifferland from its fouthern climature and its elevated
fituation, may be confidered with regard to its botany as an epitome of
all Europe. - From its low funny valleys that open upon the Italian fron.
tier, to the higher alps covered with glaciers and eternal {now, the travel.
* Sauffure, vol. vii. p. 193, informs us that mount Titlis, to the north of mount Farca,
§s 10,818 feet above the fea; and that the Schreckhorn, and the Finfteraar, fouth of the
Schreckhorn, are at leaft 2400 feet higher. If fo, thefe fummits are about 13,218 feet,
while mount Blanc iv 14,700 French feet; by the meafurement of Sir George Shuckbo-
yough 15,662 feet Englifh. General Pfeffer, who made a noted model of the northem
Alps, computes the height of St. Gothard above - fea at 9075 feet, (Coxe, i, ia
Kt
§ the white he:
jemay €3
ind ] taly
fefles non
af heath
andipch
fyecies th:
Tak life
nargin of
the overhe
that canno
The {pi
petual {no
holly de
jere and tl
emprife t
From th
the native
kw weeks
barren turf
nore luxut
payed, not
thir beingr
aclofe inf
Still fart
and aeceffil
the hardier
dlumes tha
ind, Int
tion aflume
pine and a
ene; the
clefts of the
lillocks are
ad trailing
Below al
forelts of lat
the mountai,
Among t]
luxuriant wi
nountain pla
Where th
meadows ani
dm, the bee
valent, and t
rilla, feveral
oft are feveral
iger and the
fides difclofe
ppears in the
the fouth are
lake of Kan.
Lauterbrun,
wns of ire,
zy to the fun
to the north
anc and fome
Bernard, the
north of the
¥, St. Bernar.
inating in the
ond chain has
mount Blanc, §
62 feet above
1 mount Rofa,
ag about mid.
here our maps
ugnaga, in the
2 tremendous,
lo nat exceed
ficient objects
ecret wonders
depth of per.
ftyled by the
and feet in per.
mes ftands, on
mes extending
{cenes before
he clouds, and
elow 3 the ex.
ap ; the pure
3 arc all novel.
we learn from
white granite;
b inter{perfed,
the N. appear
hains of high
s rocks.’
id its elevated
an epitome of
e Italian fron.
bw, the travel.
of mount Farea,
laar, fouth of the
out 19,218 feet,
eorge Shuckbo-
of the northem
oxe, i, a
SWISSERLAND. 28t
may experience in fucceffion the climates of Lapland, Germany, France,
yd Italy. Of maritime plants, on account of its inland iituation, it pof-
(es none ; and many of thofe which adorn and perfume the arid tracts
heath in Spain and Portugal are equally wanting. The fwamps of
Holland alfo poffefs many that are flrangers to Swiflerland ; but thofe
ecies that delight ig the pure invigorating air of the mountains, that
{ink life and fragrance from the dafhing torrent, that bend over the
teoverhanging rock, flourifh here in a profufion and glow of beauty
tut cannot be conceived by the inhabitant of lowland countries. 5
The {piry pinnacles of rock that rear themfelves from among the per-
val fnows that overfpread the fummits of the higher Alps, are almoft
atolly deftitute of vegetation; a few of the cruftaceous lichens, and
re and there a tuft of Silene acaulis, and faxifraga nivalis, and ftellaris,
omprife the whole of their fcanty flora.
from the very edge of the {now commences a zone of rocky pafturage,
he native domain of the bounding chamois, but encroached upon for a
fw weeks in the height of fummer by the fheep; covered with a fhort
wren turf, except where the rills, trickling through, give birth to a
mre luxuriant vegetation : the effect of the cold is here ftrikingly dif-
syed, not merely in the plants being all of them truly Alpine, but from
bar being fhrunk and condenfed into fuch minute {pecimens as to require
acofe infpection to be aware of their vaft variety.
Still farther from the fummits the paflurage becomes more abundant
udaeceffible to the cattle for about forty days at midfummer ; a few of
the hardier fhrubs begin to make their appearance, and the turf here
dunes that truly enamelled appearance that is fo characteriftic of Swiffer.
lnd, In the alpine valleys, and along the courfe of the torrents, vegeta-
tionafumes a more ftately appearance ; the juniper, the favine, the ftone-
pine, and alder, broken by nature into irregular thickets, diverfify the
ene; the cafcades are overhung by bowers of the alpine rofe; in the
cefts of the rock are tufts of faxifrages and auricula, and the {pongy
tilocks are eminently refplendent with the ferruginous rhododendroa,
ad trailing azalea.
Below all thefe, on the declivities of the mountains, commence the
felts of larch, of pine, and fir, intermixed here and there with the yew,
the mountain afh, and the birch.
Among thefe upper woddlands are the richeft meadows of Swifferland,
xuriant with grafs and clover, aud ornamented with the yellow genti..1,
§ te white hellebore, the aétza, the alpine anemonie, and innumerable oih:::
nountain plants.
Where the fir woods ceafe, the fubalpine regions begin, diverfified with
meadows and corn fields, and forefts of deciduous trees. The oak, the
dn, the beech, the ath, the lime, and the hornbeam, are the mott pre-
alent, and the borders of the ftreams are fhaded by poplars aud willows.
The plants are chiefly thofe which occur in the north and midland parts
of France and Germany.
The loweft and warmeft fituations in Swifferland are the plains and
broad valleys of Geneva, of Bafel, of the Pays de Vaud, of the Valteline,
and La Vallais; in thefe we meet with numerous vineyards, and the trees
and plants pf the fouth of France and Italy. The walnut, the chefnut,
he fig, the pomegranate, the bay, and laurel, and the Cornelian cherry,
ire the moft charaéteriftic among the trees: the lavender, hyfigp, fraxi-
lla, feveral kinds of ciftus, and the peony, are fome of the chief of the
etbaccous plants and lower fhrubs, The valleys that open a i
taly
margin of the traniparent lake, and luxuriate in the fheltered receffes of —
282 SWISSERLAND.
Italy contain, befides, a few plants that are not found in the reft of
Swifferland ; fuch as the lilac, the caper-bufh, the almond, and sank
the fiffures of the rocks, the Indian fig, and American aloe, "
Zootocy.] The horfes of Swiflerland are efteemed for vigour and
fpirit ; and the cattle attain great fize. Among the anima's peculiar §
to the Alps may be firft named the ibex, or rock goat. This animal
refembles the common goat; but the horns of the male are extremely
long and thick. It is more common on the Italian than on the Swifs_
Alps. The hair is long, and afh coloured, with a black lift along the
back. Theibex will mount a perpendicular rock of fifteen feet, at three
{fprings, bounding like an-claftic body ftruck againit a hard fubitance, §
In the day he feeks the higheft fummits, but in the night the nearef
woods, browfing on aromatic plants and dwarf birch, and in the winter on |
lichens.
Another fingular animal is the chamois, which is commonly feen in
herds of twenty or thirty, with a centinel who alarms them by a fhrill cry,
The colour is yellowifh brown; but they fometimes occur {peckled
The food is the lichen, with fhoots of pine or fir. The marmot is common
in the Swifs mountains. Jn fummer they feed on alpine plants, and live
in focieties, digging dwellings in the ground for fummer, and others for
winter. About the beginning of October, having provided hay, they
retreat to their holes, where they remain torpid till the fpring. The
fkin of this little animal is ufed for furs. The marmot may be tamed, J
and fhews confiderable docility. The fize is between that of the rabbit
and the hare. Among alpine birds may be named the vulture, called alfo
the golden or bearded vulture. It inhabits the higheft alps, forming its
neft in inacceffible rocks, and preying on the chamois, white hare, mar.
mot, and fometimes on kids andlambs. The great eagle, abfurdly called |
golden, is alfo feen.
MineERALocy.] The mineralogy of this interefting country is not fo
important as we might be led to infer from its mountainous nature,
Some of the ftreams wafh down particles of gold*. Mines of filver are
mentioned, but the places are not fpecified. Copper and lead are alfo
found: but the chief mines are thofe of iron, in the country of Sargans,
In the canton of Berne there are valuable quarries of rock falt +: and it
is faid that coal and native fulphur are not unknown. But the grand
ftores of minerals are in Piedmont and the fouthern fides of the Alps,
Rock cryftal forms perhaps the chief export of Swiflerland, being fome.
times found in fuch large pieces as to weigh feven or eight hundred
weight. The calcareous parts of the Alps often prefent beautiful
marbles; and good flates are not uncommon. As to granite and por.
phyry, the country may be faid to confift of them. Among the
are alfo found ferpentines, afbeftos, with jafpers, agates, and various
trifactions. Among the mineralogic curiofities may be named the adu
laria, or glafly felfpar, on the mountains of Adula, and the tremolite,
fo called from mount Tremola, near St. Gothard.
Mepicat waters.} Of medical waters, the moft remarkable are
thofe of Leuk. To the S.E. are the baths of Alvenew, which ar
fulphureous, and refemble Harrowgate water.
ATURAL no pag To enumerate the natural curiofities of
Swifferland would be‘ defcribe the country. The Alps, the glaciers,
® Bufching, xiv. 11.
Pe? ene i. 146, fays that the falt works are at Bevieur, Roche, and Panes, in the fap
aud,
the
te valt
heautifu
ingular
ntted
qumerot
thunder,
je and 1
rodigic
Peer
tines bu
tance
retige 0
nendous
birth to
Asan ey
may be |
tain of ic
irons.
great eX
faving
between
pried at
tras, W
tiful por
We arriy
world, fc
fty of th
your mir
nfing tot
the fevers
were the
phitheatr
rots, ‘1
the moft
ance of ¢
than defi
reared b
the najel
ad maint
Onthe
defcends j
the milde
lake of K
while the
rills, whic
beauty, a
rock as pe
The Va
ky watere
Jin the reft of
d, and, among
e.
for vigour and
nima!s peculiar
This animal
e are extremel
1 on the Swils
k lift along the
n feet, at three
hard fubitance,
ight the neareft
in the winter on
nmonly feen in
n by a fhrill cry,
occur {peckled,
irmot is common
plants, and live am
» and others for
vided hay, they
he fpring. The
t may be tamed, §
vat of the rabbit
ilture, called alfo
alps, forming its
white hare, mar. im
+» ablurdly called
—-
and various
ountry is not fo
ntainous nature.
ines of filver are
and ty are alfo
ntry of Sargans,
sk Tale + : m2 it
But the grand
ides of the Alps,
and, being fome.
br eight hundred
prefent beautiful
granite and pore
the Alps
named the adv
d the tremolite,
remarkable are
new, which ar
al curiofities of
Ips, the glaciers
bd Paner, in the fap
the
SWISSERLAND.
283
ie valt precipices, the defcending torrents, the fources of the rivers, the
teantiful lakes and cataraés, are all natural curiofities of the greateft
iggularity and moft fublime defcription. Of late the glaciers have at-
aed particular attention; but thofe feas of ice, interfefted with
ymerous deep fiffures, owing to fudden cracks, which refound like
junder, muft yield in fublimity to the ftupendous fummits clothed with
eand fnow, the latter often defcending in what are called avalanches, or
pi ious balls, which, gathering as they roll, fometimes overwhelm
Fee, and even villages. Nay, the mountains themfelves will fome-
tines burft, and overwhelm whole towns, as happened in the memorable
stance of Pleurs, near Chiavana, in,which thoufands perifhed, and not a
vtige of a building was left: nor are recent inftances, though lefs tre-
sndous, wholly unknown. The vaft refervoirs of ice and fnow give
tirth to sun important rivers, whofe fources seep iniereft curiofity.
jsanexample, the account which Bourrit gives of chat of the Rhone
nay be fele&ted. At length we perceived through the trees a moun-
winof ice, as fplendid as the fun, and flafhing a fimilar light on the en-
ions. ‘This firlt afpe&t of the glacier of the Rhone infpired us with
neat expeCtation. A moment afterwards this enormous mafs of ice
ing difappeared beliind thick pines, it foon after met our fight
ytween two vaft blocks of rock, which formed a kind of portico. Sur-
pred at the magnificence of this fpeétacle, and at its admirable con-
tats, we beheld it with rapture. At length we reached this beau-
tful portico, beyond which we were to difcover all the glacier.
We arrived: at this fight one would fuppofe onefelf in another
world, fo much is the imagination impreffed with the nature and immen-
fty of the objects. To Fam an idea of this fuperb fpetacle, figure in
your mind a fcaffolding of tranfparent ice, filling a {pace of two miles,
theleveral parts lefs magnificent and furprifing. One might fee as it
were the flreets and buildings of a city, ereted in the form of an am-
phitheatre, and embellifhed with pieces of water, cafcades, «nd tor-
rats, The effeéts were as prodigious as the immenfity and the height ;
themoft beautiful azure, the moit fplendid white, the regular appear-
ance of a thoufand pyramids of ice, are more eafy to be imagined
than defcribed. Such ‘is the afpeét of the glacier of the Rhone,
rared by nature on a plan which fhe alone can execute: we admire
the majeitic courfe of a river, without fufpecting that what gives it birth
ad maintains its waters may be ftill more majettic and magnificent.”
Onthe north of Swifferland the Rhine, near the village of Neuhaufen,
defcends in a cataraét of 40 feet amidit black and bowie rocks, Amon
the milder charms of the country may be named the lakes; and the final
lake of Kandel Steig bears at one extremity the charms of fummer,
while the other prefents the glaciers and pomp 6f winter. Numerous
rill, which defcend from the mountains, often fall in cafcades of great
beauty, among which that of Staubbach is computed at goo feet, over a
tock as perpendicular as a wall *.
VALAIS.
The Valais now forms a little independent republic. It is a rich val-
ley watered by the Rhone, about 85 miles in length, and containing
* Bourtit, iii, 165,
about
ning to the clouds, and darting flafhes of light like the fun. Nor were
284 GERMAN STATES.
about 90,000 inhabitants. The chief town is Sion, formerly the feat of
the bifhop. On the fouth of the valley is mount Simplon, wherea noble
road has been conducted from France into Italy.
GERMAN STATES.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Extent.—Boundarics.—Original Population. Progrefive Geography.— Hi.
torical Epochs.— Antiquities. —Religion.— Population. Army —Navy —
Language.—Literatare.-—Roads.—Face of the Country.-— River;
Lakes.— Mountains.-——Forefts. -—Botany.—Zoology.— Mineralogy, —
Mineral Waters. —Natural Curiofities.
ie defcribing an extenfive country, fubdivided into many ftates, it be.
comes indifpenfable to give a general idea of the whole, before the
refpective territories are delineated. The geography of Germany is the
moft perplexed of any region on the globe, the great divifions, or circles,
being now interwoven, and almoft antiquated, while no modern and more
rational diftribution has yet appeared. ‘This obfervation even extends to
the inferior ftates.
Exrent.] Germany, confidered in its modern limits, extends about
6co Britih miles in length, from the ifle of Rugen in the north to the
fouthern limits of the circle of Aultria. The modern breadth, from the
Rhine to the eaftern boundary of Silefia, is about 500 Britith miles;
anciently the breadth extended beyond the Vittula, about 200 miles more
to the eaft.
ORIGINAL POPULATION, ] This country appears to have been full of
extenfive forefts, even in the Roman period ; and of courfe to have been
in many parts’ thinly peopled, yet there are faint indications that the
Cimbri, or modern Ceits, poffeifed feveral tracts in the foutli, as they
certainly occupied a large portion of the N.W. The N.E. of Germany
was held by the Finnifh nations; but both thefe and the Cimbri were
: obliged ta yield to the invafion of the Scythians or Goths who migrated
weftward from their original feats on the Euxine, and had planted ania
in Germany, Britain, Gaul, and Spain, long before the Roman interference
in the affairs of thofe conntries.
PROGRESSIVE GEO@RAPHY.] The progreflive geography of Ger.
many, though an interefting topic, has never been abl illuftrated,
It appears that the central parts of Germany were little known to
the ancients. The fouthern and weftern diftricts, as bordering on the
Roman empire, had been partislly explored. Roman hips had navi-
ated the Baltic, and the Roman arms had penetrated nearly ina
ire€tion due eaft, to the neareft circuit of the Elbe near Magde-
burg, in which quarter the trophies of Drufus were erected. On
the S. the Sudetic mountains feem to bound the knowledge of the an-
cients; while through the centre of Germany, from the Rhine to the
Viftula, extended the vaft Hercinian forett.
The interior of this ¢ountry remained unexplored till the aft
>
the feat of
here a noble
raphy.—Hij-
y —WN avy -_
— Rivers.—
Mineralogy, —
ftates, it be.
le, before the
ermany is the
Ms, OF circles,
Jern and more
ren extends to
extends about
e north to the
dth, from the
Britith miles;
00 miles more
e been full of
to have been
tions that the
buthi, as they
. of Germany
Cimbri were
ho migrated
anted colonies
n interference
phy of Ger.
hy illuftrated,
A known to
ps had navi-
nearly ina
ear Magée
rected, On
of the an
Rhine to the
the age of
Charle-
ao) |
Mouth
the Sche
CV Iu
denburg’
~, er
Lage 267.
a a ae i
a
| 4
Tew 1.32.
‘S.
of’ the Mae g @—
22x
Mouths oz} So es
the Scheid.g7 2 wS)
|
|
| Mae striche:
|
a a7 .
Cc
\
vi MANY,
Vereen we Ne etter eee
\
a
+5 TERNAM. <>
Mouth Chto :
#
=
+ ~Neaneb "3°
rN |
Mulda |
\o ‘
re 7 "dsinataen “Ls
rep,
‘Sehaveinft’ pf
Ver p butt ,
= se ¢€
>
From Chaychard. de.
Pablithed rl ards. by Gutell & Darien Strand &Tongman BRerp Parernose
Page 267.
Nuritkerg |
‘Anispgch fie
puted at
could, if
calculatic
ene
Civilizatio
It will
Pruffian d
The part.
portions b
prefeats w
GERMAN STATES. 285
Charlentagne, and the northern parts for fome centuries after that
HisrorrcAL Epocus.] Some of the grand hiftorical epochs have
qleady been mentioned, in defctibing thofe large portions of Germanys~
the Auftrian and Pruffian dominions; and fome of the others may be
briefly hinted in the account of the refpective ftates. Suffice it here to
mention: 1. The ancient period, chiefly refting on the account of the
Roman and Francic hiftorians. 2. The middle period. In the end of
the eighth century, Charlemagne, having fubdued the Saxons and other
parts of Germany and Italy, was in the year 800 proclaimed emperor of
the Weft. His fucceffor Louis le Debonnaire held the empire with
France; but his fon Lothaire I. was reftriGed to Germany. After
nany inteftine commotions Henry Duke of Saxony-was chofen emperor
ngi8, and this line failing 1024, was followed by that of Franconia.
In the twelfth century arofe the faétions of the Guelphs and Gibelines,
and, after long contefts, the fueptre was at length afligned to the houfe
of Auftria in 1273 ; and after fome deviations continued to remain in
that family., 3. The modern period, which may be traced from Charles V.;
or from his grandfather Maximilian.
AntiquiTies.] The antiquities of Germany confit chiefly of a few
Roman remains in the S. and W. It would be endlefs to enumerate the
churches founded by Charlemagne ; or the numerous caftles, ere&ted by
_ powerful princes and barons.
Resicion.] ‘The religion of the greater part of Germany may be
ronounced to be the Reformed, firft introduced into Saxony by Luther.
Vet the fouth continues firmly attached to the Roman Catholic faith,
now chiefly fupported by the houfe of Auttria.
GoveRNMENT.] The government is that of an ariftocracy, which
eedts a monarch, who may be of any family, Catholic, Lutheran, or
Calvinift. To confider the conftitution at length, which has been called
bya German writer “a confufion fupported by providence,’’ would be
forcign to the nature of this work. It has been recently overturned
by the {word of Bonaparte.
PopuLaTION, &c.] The population of Germany in general is com-
puted at little more than 25,000,000. It was fuppofed that the empire
could, if united, fend forth a contingent army of 400,000 ; but fuch
calculations are vifionary in the prefent ftate of affairs. The revenues,
ey importance and relations, are now detached, and have already
nina great part confidered under the articles of Pruffia and Auftria.
The manners, cuftoms, and dialeéts vary according to the different ftates.
‘The Saxon is accounted the pureft and moft claffical idiom of the
German tongue; and the fouthern diale&ts of Suabia, Bavaria, and
Aufria, the moft uncouth. The literature will beft be confidered under
tach Rate ; to ftyle an author a German, being almoft as vague as to
all him an European, fo diftin& are the feveral ftates and the fhades of
civilization,
It will be remembered that in the defcriptions of the Auftrian and
Pruffian dominions are contained many of the eaftern provinces of Germany.
The part which remains' is the weftern half, naturally divided into two
portions by the river Mayn. ‘The remaining objeéts to be generally confi-
dered in this weftern portion are chiefly the afpeé&t of the country, the
rivers, lakes, mountains, and forefts, with the botany and zoology :
the: topics being more appropriated to each ftate. ;
Face OF THE COUNTRY. ] To the north of the Mayn, Germany chiefly
prefeats wide ‘andy plains, whigh feem as if they had been, in the firtt
ila ages
386 GERMAN STATES.
ages of the world, overwhelmed by the fea. A few hills begin to anpe
in the neighbourhood of Minden; and in the fouth of the Haier
dominions arife the moft northern mountains of Germany, thofe “7
Blockfberg, and others in the Hartz. ‘To the S.W. are the mountains of
Heffia, and others, extending towards the Rhine: while on the eat the
rich and variegated country of Saxony, one of the moft beautiful and i
fertile in the empire, extends to the fouthern limits of the mountains of
Erageberg abundant in mines and fingular foffils.
e regions to the fouth of the Mayn may be regarded as rather |
mountainous.
Rivers. ] Both portions are watered by numerous and important rivers
In the north the Elbe is the mott diftinguithed ftream, rifing in the Sudetic
mountains of Silefia: and after running fouth for about 50 miles, it
fuddenly affumes its deftination of N. W., receives the Bohemian Mulda
and’ Eger, the Mulda and Sala of Saxony, and the large river Havel
from the eaft, and enters the fea near Cuxhaven, after a comparative
‘courfe of more than 500 Britifh miles. ‘The chief cities on the banks of
the Elbe are Drefden, Meiffen, Wittenberg, Magdeburg, from which jt
runs almoft a folitary ftreamto Hamburg. The tide is perceived to the
height of 22 miles; and, when raifed by the north wind, middle fized
veflels may arrive at Hamburg, but they are in general obliged to anchor
a mile below the city *.
Not far to the weft is the mouth of the Wefer, which firft receives
that name when its two fources, the Werra and the Fulda, join nea
Munden, in the principality of Calenburg, about 16 Britifh miles §.W,
of Gottingen. The Werra fprings in the principality of Hildburg.
haufen ; and the Fulda in the territories of the bifhopric fo called ; the
former having the longeft courfe, and being juftly confidered as the chief
fource of the Wefer, which thus flows about 270 Britifh miles. The
principal towns on this river are Bevern, Minden, and Bremen. The
chief tributary ftream is the Aller, from the duchy of Brunfwick. The
inundations of the Wefer are terrible, the adjacent towns and villages
were to form iflands in the fea: hence the fhores are efteemed un.
The fources and mouths of the Rhine have been already defcribed,
This noble river forms the grand ancient barrier between France and Ger.
many; and its courfe may be computed at about 600 Britifh miles.
the German fide it is deverfified with mountains and rocks; but from
Bafel to Spire the fhores are flat and uniaterefting +.- Near Mentz they
become rich, variegated, and grand; and on the confluence with the
Mayn the waters are diftinguifhable for many leagues. The Rhinegau
is not only celebrated for its wines, but for the romantic appearance of the
country, the river running through wild rocks ainenee with majettic
caftles. Hence as far as Bonn the fhores abound with beautiful and
ftriking objets, the Rhine not feeming to aflume his grandeur till after
his jun@tion with the Mayne.
n the fouthern part of Germany the moft important river is the Da
nube, which according to the common opinion rifes near the little town of
Donaufchingen in Suabia, but fome place the fources a little farther to
the north. This noble river becomes navigable a little above Ulm, where
it receives the Iler. The next tributary ftream of confequence is the
Lech, which comes from Tyrol, a ftream diftinguithed in the feat
© Bufching, vi. 16. + Gardoor’s Views on the Rhine.
1 af
of the
The D
tng by
gan £
to the
The
foreft,
about I
Anothey
of Ficht
devated
narious ¢
fource, t
fies neay
after rece
Rhine to
mith tro
Bamber
raters t
has recent
poiticiang
of Germa
LAKES
tt bei
a und
breadth.
ike of Cc
fribed unc
about 14. E
the fea of
contains mi
Mount,
of the Hai
rie in the {
ie Bloc!
ams {pri
tke great B
In Weft i
the fame ne
Atenberg,
nparded as.
5,W. towa
my be men
the Rhine a
hich prote
Mayn are tk
id Henneb
But the n
is to the N
hich rife to
id Saxony,
netals, Thy
panite like t
egin to appear
1¢ Hanoverian
ny, thofe of
e mountains of
on the eaft the
, beautiful and
> mountains of
ded as rather
nportant rivers,
y in the Sudetic
ut 50 miles, it
ohemian Mulda
ge river Havel
a comparative
on the banks of
y, from which it
perceived to the
id, middle fized
bliged to anchor
ich firft receives @
Fulda, join near
‘itifh miles S.W,
y of Hildburg.
ic fo called ; the
ered as the chief
ifh miles. The
Bremen. The
runf{wick. The
wns and villages
re efteemed un
ady defcribed,
France and Ger.
itifh miles. Qn
ocks ; but from
ear Mentz they
uence with the
The Rhinegau
ppearance of the
ed with majettic
h beautiful and
andeur till after
river is the Da
he little town of
little farther to
love Ulm, where
fequence is the
ed in the feat
ne Rhine.
GERMAN STATES. 284
ithe recent war; as is the Ifer, proceeding from Upper Bavaria.
The Danube runs about 250 miles through this part of Germany, paf-
ing by Ulm, Ratifbon, and Paffau. ‘To Orfova it may be confidered
san Auttrian river for about 550 miles; thence it is Turkifh for 480 .
e Euxine.
iT Necker is a tributary ftream of the Rhine, rifing in the Black
foreft, not far from the Danube, and running a pifturefque courfe of
tout 150 Britifh miles through a country variegated with vineyards.
Another and grander tributary ftream of the Rhine {prings from the lake
fFichtel See, on the mountain of Fichtelberg, efteemed among the moft
evated parts of Germany, as it gives fource to four rivers runing in
arious dire@tions. This fource is called the White Mayn ; while another
(urce, the Red Mayn, fo called from the red clay through which it flows,
iesnear Heernleinfreuth, in the principality of Bareuth. The Mayn,
fer receiving the Rednitz and other confiderable ftreams, joins the
Rhine to the S. of Mentz. The Maynisa muddy ftream, but abounds
rth trout, carp, and other fifh. After pervading the rich bifhopricks of
fimberg and Wurtzburg, and fome territories of the fee of Mentz, it
raters ihe walls of Frankfort, formerly a city of celebrated trade ; and
srecently acquired frefh importance from being confidered by German
piiticians as a natural boundary between the power of Pruffia in the N.
¢ Germany, and that of Auftria in the S.
Lakes. ] To the north of the Mayn Germany prefents few lakes, the
lugelt being in the duchy of Mecklenburgh, where the lake of Plau ex-
nds under various names about 25 Britifh miles in length, by 6 in
eadth. In the more iouthern and Alpine regions, the Boden See, or
ke of Conftance, is the moft diftinguifhed expanfe of water, already de-
(ribed under Swifferland. Next is the Chiem See in Upper Bavaria,
tout 14 Britifh miles in length by 5 in breadth, fometimes largely ftyled
thefeaef' Bavaria. ‘That circle, like moft mountainous countries, alfo
wtains many other lakes of f{maller account. .
Mountrains.] The moft northern mountains in Germany are thofe
the Hartz, called the Brocken or Blockfberg *. Thefe mountains
rf in the form of an amphitheatre, the higheft being what is called the
t Blockfberg. The river Ilfe rifes from the bottom; and other
fant {pring from the hills to the N. W. and to the E., the height of
thegreat Brocken is 3021 feet ; and of the little Brocken 2713.
In Weftphalia there are fome hille near Minden; and in the duchy of
th fame name, bordering on Heffia, are the mountainsof Winterberg,
Atenberg, Schlofsberg, and others+. The Heffian territories may be
ngarded as generally mountainous, efpecially towards the north. Thence
§,W. towards the Rhine are feveral confiderable hills, among which
my be mentioned thofe in the weft of Wetterau, and the feven hills near
the Rhine almoft oppofite to Andernach; with the ridge of Heyrich
hich protects the vines of Rhinegau. To the caft of Frankfort on the
yn are the hilly foreft of Speffart, with the metallic heights of Fulda
id Henneberg. -
But the mol celebrated mountains, in that part of Germany which
its to the N. of the Mayn, are the Erzgeberg, or Metallic Mountains,
hich rife to the N. E. of the Fichtelberg, running between Bohemia
td Saxony, but fupplying both countries with filver, tin, and other
tals, The Erzgeberg are not of remarkable height, yet contain much
jnnite like thofe of the Hertz and Heffia; with gneifs, in which moft
« Bufching, %, 251. T Reifbeck, viii, 8,9
of
288 GERMAN STATES.
of Saxon and Bohemian mines are found. Granular ]i ithe wi
appears ; andin Upper Lufatia an entire mountain is mane Gli alfo note
{chiftus, while Flinzberg confifts almoft entirely of milk-white ane Boran’
Mifnia contains mountains of pitchftone, and ftrata of hornblende” i yd Scand:
Voigtland, near Averbach, appears the famous topaz rock, confit; s nd almott
pale topazes in hard lithomarga, Micaceous fchiftus and flate alfo Fs 7 mable char
portions of the Saxon mountains ; with large maffes pf trap and} ; It my oof {0s
Thofe of Heffia and the Hertz prefent nearly the fame fubttances att duction
a fummit of the Meifner confifts of bafalt refting on coal. The Bes Le thofe
will be confidered in the account of each country. By: never,
Among the German mountains to the S. of the Mayn may fir 4 tough per!
named the Bergftrafs, a ridge pafling from near Manheim to the vicin; BR dance
of Frankfort. On the eaft are the Figh hills of Odenwald. Farther. ee jature in th
the S. are the mountains of Wurtemburg, rifing both on the E, and W, To begin
of that extenfive duchy. Onthe W. the mountains form a continuation pis on at
of thofe of the Black Foreft, the mount Abnoba of Tacitus, whénes the flora ¢
juftly derives the fource of the Danube; and the Helvetian foreft f mich with |
Ptolemy. The mountains of the Black Foreft, in German Schwartzwald by no me
extend from near Neuenburg, in the territories of Wurtembure fouth tii oemany 5 ¢
the four foreft towns on the Rhine +. The fouthern part is “called tha oo, Of tl
High, and the northern the Lower foreft ; the length being about 0. and detry, yello
the bseadth 20 Britifh miles. The eaftern part, as ufual, prefents ay, a tarla
dual elevation , while the weftern fhews precipitous fumm’ts to the inkobi The paftur
tants of Baden and Alface. The appellation feems to arife from the thic iumber of
dark forefts with which the afcents are clothed. A branchof the Blckiimmm ald: two
Mountains f{preads E. from near Sulz onthe Necker towards the countn
of Ctingen, being more than 60 miles in length. This chain is called The vegeta
the Alb, and fometimes the Suabian Alps. The conttituent parts hubby and }
thefe extenfive ridges have been little detailed ; but a great part is calca wees and fhru
reous, as they fupply excellent marbles. Near Frudenttadt in the Black@gmmomanica,
Mountains are mines of filver and copper. Rae ke mot wort
The fouth-eaft of this portion of Germany is bounded by the higimmmtley, clutter
mountains of Bavaria and Salzia, or Salzburg ; being branches or conti, green h
nuations of the Swifs or Tyrolefe Alps, but without general appellationgmm 4 few char.
Thofe bordering on Tyrol are granite ; thence, as ufual, argillaceous ange vineyards,
calcareous in the lower parts}. Large pieces of grafs-green quartz a Lootocy. }
found, ftudded with red tranfparent garnets, and at Munich are worked much with t
into elegant {nuff-boxes. The Alps of Salzburg exceed in height t . The
Carpathian chain, or the Pyrenees, and only yield to the Swifs and Tyga
rolefe Alps, the higheft fummits being computed at more than 10,900 feq
above the fea. ometimes fee
Forests. ] Confiderable remains yet exift of the ancient forefts whic
pervaded Germany. The German word wald, correfponding with theo
Englith qweald, denotes a foreft. ‘The chief of thefe appear always to hay
extended along the middle regions of Germany, from the N.W. toward
the S.E. The Dromling-wald is to the north of Magdeburgh ; butt THE CHIR
Sollinge-wald, the woody mountain- of Hartz, the Lutten-wald, the wid
foreft af Thuringia, may be faid to be conne¢ted with the ancient foreliiimy.— Brun/;
of Silefia, hence extending far to the E. through the centre of Poland at With Cit
Ruffia. More to the fouth, in this part of Germany, are the Spefla
foreft, and others. In the portion fouth of the Mayn, the vait Bla N this divifion
Foreft, and the woods along the Alb, are continued by others in variogamm the chief pot
parts of Bavaria. In general the paflion among the grandees for the chaggmmlts, the inhabit
le name is der;
* Kirwan, Geol, Ef, 174, 176. +f Bufching, viii, 461. $ Fexbow’s Tourin Italy, 3 Mdle ages held
~
neftone alfo
Of filiceoug
ite quartz *,
blende. In
confifting of
ate alfo form
p and bafalt,
tances ; and
The metals
may firft be
to the Vicinity @
Farther to
he E. and W,
a continuation
us, whence he
etian foreft o
Schwartawaldg
abure fouth tol
t is called thd
g about So, and
prefents a gra
ts to the inhabi
> from the thick
hoof the Black
wds the count
» chain is called
{tituent parts 0
at part is calca
adt in the Blackh&™
ed by the high
anches or conti
ral appellations
argillaceous ant
rreen quartz a
ich are workef
h in height t
+ Swifs and Ty
han 10,900 feq
pnt forefts whic
ing with theo
r always to ha
N.W. toward
burgh ; buttl
n-wald, the wie
e ancient forell
e of Poland at
are the Spefla
the valt Bla
pthers in varid
hees for the ch
Tovrin Italy, 3
~
GERMAN STATES. 289
ithe wild boar, and other pleafures of hunting, has contributed greatly
the prefervation of the forefts.
Borany.] As Spain is diftinguifhed by its graves of cork trees and ilexs
oi Scandinavia by its fir woods, fo is Germany remarkable for its deep
gj almott impenetrable forefts of oak: hot indeed that this is the inva-
ible characteriftic of the country, for in an empire of fuch great extent,
piof fo variéd a furface, it muft needs happen that the native vegetable
ductions on the fhore of the German ocean fhould differ confiderably
thofe in the Black Foreft, or on the frontiers of Tyrol. There is,
ever, on the whole, more uniformity than might be expected ; and
ough perhaps few plants are abfolutely pecnliar to Germany, yet the
judance of fome {pecies, and the abfence of others, forms a itriking
igure in the natural hiftory of the empire.
To begin with the hedges and roadifides, as thefe are fituations that ims
‘;on a traveller at teat the firft, and probably the moft durable idea
(ihe flora of a country. It will be remarked, that the lilac and fyringas
wich with us fcarcely ever flray beyond the bounds of the fhrubbery,
nby no means of unfrequent occurrence in the hedges of the north of
Genany ; the cornel, the {weet briar and cinnamon rofe, are alfo com-
wm, Of the fmaller plants the principal are leffer honeywort, winter
tery, yellow and leaft ftar of Bethlehem, evening primrofe, and coronilla
wala,
The paftures and edges of woods afford feveral kinds of iris and gentian:
iwmber of bulbous rooted plants, particularly fnowflake, narciffus, and
dfodil : two kinds of hyacinth, the mufcari and racemofus, and branched
dphodel,
The vegetables of the woods and groves may be divided into the
tubby and herbaceous : to the firft belong, befides the common foreft
ns and fhrubs of England, branched elder ; Daphne cneorum, Mefpilus
Gemanicay pendent rofe ; bladder fenna and laburnum. Of the latter,
temoft worth notice are millet grafs, afclepias vincetoxicum, lily of the
uky, cluftered hyacinth, martagon lily, fraxinella, baneberry, monks-
od, green hellebore, and hepatica.
A few characteriftic plants alfo are met with in the cultivated fields
wivineyards, fuch as tournefol, blue pimpernel, and Carthufian pink.
lootocy.}] ‘Fhe zoology of this weltern half of Germany correfponds
hmuch with that of the Auftrian and Pruffian dominions, that little need
added. The German horfes are generally more remarkable for weight
ha fpirit. The German wild boar is of fuperior fize ; and thofe of
etphalia are in particular eftimation. Inthe N. of Germany the lynx
fometimes feen ; and the wolf is common in the fouth,
CHAPTER II.
THE CIIIEF GERMAN STATES ON THE NORTH OF THE MAYN.
ny — Brun/wick Lunenburg.—Hefia.— Mecklenburg.— Duchy of Brunfs
wich.—City of Hamburg.—Smaller States.—Ecclefiaflic Powers.
N this divifion of Germany the elector of Saxony muft be regarded as
the chief potentate, his territories being computed at 11,680 fquare
ies, the inhabitants at 1,896,000, and the revenue at 1,283,3331. fterling.
he name is derived from the ancient natiog of the Saxons, who in the
dle ages held the greateft part of the N. and W. of Germany, and
U extended
< 8 ci AS ing arene tense a
29% GERMAN STATES. | ,
extended themfelves thus far over Thuringia, towards the territories of
the Luflitzi, a Slavonic tribe who gave name to Lufatia. a ferper
The countries comprifed in the eleétorate of Saxony are, the duchy {> Mmmm igricult
called in the north, and Voigtland in the fouth ; Lufatia in the ealt, ‘and Se fells ab
part of Thuringia in the wails with part of Mitlnia aud Fi: neberge . hie. beret
in length from E. to W. about 220 Britith miles, and ii *<-dth trom Ne R trading t
‘om ¢he kings The cl
Same (ie count
hill and d
orival th
huts, all
fifron, m
Mulda, th
ended with Albert LIT, 14223 and was followed by that of Mifria, Erneft Elbe and |
and Albert, fons of Frederic I1., divided the territories in 1485, ang The moun
formed two branches bearing their names. The Ernettine branch 0 peral acCOL
the houfe of Mifnia ruled till 1547, when John Fredcric was depofedfalmm (xl for the
by Charles V., and the electorate affigned to Maurice of the Albertine ngeneral ¢
branch, m which it continues. In order to gain the crown of Poland thal partic
the vain wifh of the Saxon eleftors, Frederic Auguttus, 1697, abjured dats of Jo
the proteltant religion ; but neither he nor his fucceffors have attempted ' 8
to conftrain the confcience of their fubjeéts. The eleorate fuffere twfriederfd
greatly by the invafion of the Pruflians, m the war of feven years s iJ and ot]
has but finee continued the tranquil and flourifhing feat of arts andi ind, appea
{ciences, ; jnot only @
The religion is the proteftant, which was here intrdduced by Lutherdllil we of fine
and there are two bifhoprics, Merfeberg and Naumburg. The govern wates and ja
ment is, as u.ual among the German prices, nearly ablolute, but confi ited, in th
duéted with moderation through different councils. Yet there are ftate
general of nobles, clergy, and burgeffes, commonly uflembled every fixth ;
year to regulate the taxation; and the fovereign can iffue no laws with we N,
out their confent. The army is about 24,000, and the political Weight ditions of t
of Saxony in this part of Germany is next to that of Pruffia, fit Next in co
which it is naturally connected, and which it eannot with fafety oppofe soften ftyle
This beautiful electorate may mdeed well be an objcé& of ambition ¢ 2 f
the Pruffian monarchs; but the jealoufy of other powers has preventediimMirenue 962,
the conquetft. ate
The language and literature of Saxony are the mott diftinguifhed in alm defcendant
Germany, mott of the writers who have refined the language having beef Falians
born, or laving refided in this country, as Gottfhed, who firil introducefmmm, countries
a fuperior ftyle, and many others, Leibnitz, Wolf, and other philo(@iiy Luneburg,
phers were alfo born or refided in Saxony ; among the artills may KMbltein on th
named Mengs, Haffe, and Gluck. Lecipfig is a celebrated mart of CeiiMugh and Gr,
man literature. There are many fchools, colleges, and academies; amoufitthe welt, anc
the latter, the mineralogic academy of Freybery, inttituted in 176@ifGrubenhage
is efteemed the leading {chool of that fcience. ‘The chief city is Dreldaitel, the bith
onthe Elbe, of celebrated neatnefs ; and about 50,000 inhabitants; b theing poffes
often expofed to the injuries of war. It is firit mentioned about the yea the third }
1020; and difplays many manufactures, with the palace and celebrataiin }
cabinets of the elector. Leipfig has near 30,000 inhabitants. Witter
berg has fuffered greatly by war, particularly in the fiege by tHitnds in lenge
Autrians in 17603; and it is now chiefly. celebrated as having been tl
refidence of Luther. The manufaétures of Saxony are thread, ling B
laces, ribbons, velvets, carpets, paper, colours derived from variogiift See Hoeck’s ‘1
< . 4 +0 i
minerals, glafs, and porcelain of remarkable beauty, and various wor ee eon
: Puy
A This army dah
ecrritories of
the duchy fo on
the ealt, and
cbergs bein
“dth trom W.
an the kings
Otho Ili.
y to the houfe
on after this
, Inir80the
a, the weftern
fe of Afcania
Mifria, Erneft
in 1455, and
tine branch o
ic was depofed
the Albertine |
wn ef Poland
1697, abjured
have attempted
orate fuffered
of feven years ;
eat of arts an
iced by Luther
r. ‘The govern
‘olute, but con
t there are flate
bled every fixth
he no laws with
political weigh
of Pruffia, ‘it
h fafety oppofe
of ambition t
rs has prevente
iftinguithed ina
rage having bee
firit introduc
d other philofd
ve artills may
ed mart of Ge
racemies 3 amon
tituted in 176
f city 8 Drelds
inhabitants ; b
d about the ye
GERMAN STATES. igi
ferpentine ftone, The country is alfo rich in native prodiéts, both
yricultural and mineral, and beautiful pearls are found in the Elfter in
fells about fix inches long *. With fuch advantages Saxony maintains
,confiderable inland commerce; and Leipfig is efteemed one of the chief |
nding towns of Germany. .
The climate is fo favourable that wine is made in Mifnia. The face of
jecountry, efpecially towards the fouth, is beautifully divetlified with
tiland dale ; and its richnefs between Meiffen and Drefden is efteemed
prval that of the north of Italy. The'land is well cultivated; the pros
ude, all kinds of grain and vegetables, with hops, flax, hemp, tobacco,
iron, madder, &c.+. Chief rivers, the Eibe, the Saal or Sala, the
ulda, the Pleiffe, the Eliter, with the Spree of Lufatia ; all except the
fbe and Sala, rifing in the mountains between Saxony and Bohemia
The mountains are thofe of the Erzgeberg, already defcribed in the ges -
yalaccount of Germany ; and there are feveral {inall forefts fupplying
ful for the mines and domeiti¢c purpofes. The botany and zoology are
neneral common with the vel of Germany; but the mineralogy is as
ful particular, and few countries can boalt of fuch fofil opulence. The
tines of Johngeorgenttadt produce filver, tin, bifmiuth, manganefe, cobalt,
tram, &¢. The other mines are thofe of Freyberg, Annaberg, Eh-
wfiederfdorf, Altenberg, Eibenttock, &c., producing filver, copper,
dand other metals. At Schneckenftein, near Averbach in the Voigta
inl, appears the topaz rock, unique in its kind. The tin of Saxony
snot only a rare produ, but is excellent. Jet is alfo found; and abund-
B we of fine porcelain clay, with fuller’s earth, marble, flate, ferpentine,
iztes and jafper. The annual produét of the filver mines has been coin-
jited, in the German ftyle, dt four tons of gold, or 40,000]. and is
twught to be rivalled by that of the cobalt converted into the blue pig-
wit called fmalt. The tin, coppet, lead, and iron, are alfo very pro-
dive. Nor muft coal and turf be forgotten among the mincral pros
ui@iors of this remarkable region.
Next in confequence is the electorate of Brunfwick Lunenburg f, or,
soften ftyled from the capital, the electorate of Hanover, containing
dout 8224 fquare miles, with 850,000 inhabitants, and the computed
irenue 962,5001. fterling, while the military force is eftimated at
noo §. tis fituated in the circle of Lower Saxony, and poflefled by
le defcendants of a branch of that great nation called the Olt Fali, or
tern Falians ; while another branch to the weit gave name to Wettphalia.
Me countries comprifed in the electorate of Hanover ate chiefly the duchy
{Luneburg, Bremen, and Verden, and Saxe Lauenburg adjacent to
oltein on the northern fide of the Elbe; with the countries of Calen. |
ugh and Grubenhagen in the fouth, and thofe of Diepholtz and Hoya
theweft, and that of Dannzberg in the eaft. The fouthern territory
{Grubenhagen is detached from the reft by the principality of Wolfen-
uttel, the bifhopric of Hildefheim, and the country of Halberftadt ; the
theingr poffeffed by the duke of Brunf{wick, the fecond by its own bifhop,
ithe third by the king of Pruffia, having been transferred to the elec-
cod
— _— — —— ae
5 aa =n Perret ."-: Bs 7g 5s
eae Z eda Heme a rete 2
and celebrate
itants. Witter
he fiege by t
having been th
e thread, live
d from. vatio
Al various wor
ml houfe of Brandenburg by the treaty of Nhe toe 1648. Hence
may be computed that the compa‘t part of the Harioverian dominions
tends in length, eaft to weft, about 180 miles: and in breadth N. to S.
*Bufching, ix. 959, :
+ Sce Hoeck’s ‘Tables for minute particulars,
1 On the continent, written and pronounved Lundburg; the fecond 2 being added in
lih merely to give fomid to the e.
I This army confumes molt of the revenue. See Hoeck.
a abeut
Pie
292 GERMAN STATES.
about ‘100 miles; while the detached duchy of Grubenhagen, with
fouthern Calenburg or the country of Gottingen, is about 80 miles in
length by 30 in its greateft breadth.
The electors of Hanover {pring from the ancient dukes of Brunfwick
Bruno I., margrave of Saxony, A.D. 955, enlarged and embellithed
the city of Brunfwick. In 1071 the emperor Henry IV, gave the
duchy of Bavaria to Welph, fon of Azo of Elte, a powerful marquis in
Italy, and of Cuniza, heirefs of the firft Welphs earls of Altorf in Suabia,
His grandfon, Henry Duke of Bavaria, acquired Brunfwick along with
Saxony. In 1195 William, fon of panty the Lion, and of Matilda of
England, acquired Luneberg : and his fon Otho, 1213, was the fir}
duke of Brunfwick and Luneburg. His fon Albert I. 1252, was fur.
named the Great. Magnus II. 1368, was furnamed Torquatus, from a
large chain which he wore. His fon Bernard retained Luneburg ; while
Brunfwick paffed to Henry the fecond fon, and continued in his dei
{cendants till 1634. The dukes of Luneburg acquired fome {mall pore
tions of adjacent territory. Henry being put to the ban of the empire
in 1521, was fucceeded by his fon, who only aflumed the title of dukom
of Zell, a ftyle which continued till the reign of George William 166,
{n 1617, Chriftian duke of Zell obtained poffeffion of Grubenhagen,
In 1692 George William duke of Zell confented that the eleétorate, in
{tituted in favour of his family, fhould be conferred on his younger bro
ther, as he had no male heir. Erngft died in 1698, having married
Sophia daughter of Elizabeth, daughter of James I. of England, He
was fucceeded by his fon George Lewis, eleGtor, 1698, and king o
England, 1714. The later hiftory of Hanover is little remarkable, ex
cept by repeated devaftations of the Frengh ; and in the recent war it wa
on fecured by the powerful interference of the king of Pruffia.
Phe religion is the Lutheran. The government is now conduéed b
a council of regency, and there are provincial ftates, though rarely fur;
moned. The political importance of this eleGtorate cannot be high!
eitimated in the prefent {tate of German affairs; and from France ¢
nyt) b
dance
Wood
quantit
tattle,
porth 3
mu in|
with th
hw {me
fue to t
dominio
Hartz,
The mir
unc; W
fom the
fances, |
the lattes
hveral {i
terminati
The bi
Pie irpavage
owe treaty of
polleffed z
of the cha
who was t
fairs are
120,000
Having
cpalities ‘
may be bri
tention, an
het, if eve
Pruffia it can only be protected by the powerful mediation of Englan
The literature of this country has deferved confiderable applaufe, fing
the inftitution of the univertity of Gottingen by George IL:
founded in 1734, and folernnly opened 1737.
in the northern part of the principality of Calenburg, fituated ont
river Leine, amidit numerous gardens aud villas. This city is firft men
tioned in the twelfth century ; and is flightly fortified, containing abo
15,500 inhabitants. In the new city, on the left of the Leine, isa
brary particularly rich in books of hiftory and politics. Gottingg
ftands on the fame river, containing about 7,600 .euls, a neat a
pleafing town, firlt mentioned in the thirteenth century. Verden, ne
the junetion of Aller with the Wefer, is of {mall account, but has
cently fent fome veflels to the Greenland fithery under the Hanover
flag. Other towns are er which imparts its name to the el
torate ; Lavenburg, Zell, with Einbeck and Ofverode in the provin
of Grubenbagen.
The manufactures and commerce of this cleéo
are pretty confiderable, in metals from the Hartz, linen, cotton, for
broad cloths, &c. The filver fabrics of Zell are celebrated in German
The chief exports are metals, coarfe linens, timber, peat, with fome c
tle and grain.
The atpe& of the country is plain, partaking fomewhat of the fant
nature of Brandenburg, except in the fouth, where rife the lofty and pi
turefque mountains of the Har.z. The agricultural produdts are whe
5
The chief gty is Hanove
which croy
imonarch
or landed
guetteer,
In this fe
be affigned
diiriéts, as
isdenomina
# about &o
tiles fquare
The derivati
tonceived td
but this land
nly mounta
ing vineyard
and fi
der contai
metal, but
Iver, coppe
ind fome med
ind the May
three orders,
wher towns,
hagen, with
t 80 miles in
f Brunfwick,
d embellifhed
IV. gave the
ful marquis in
torf in Suabia,
ick along with
of Matilda of
, was the fir}
1252, was fur.
‘quatus, from a
ineburg : while jim
ved in his de.
fome {mall por.
n of the empire
he title of duke
> William 1665.
f Grubenhagen.J
he eleétorate, indiam
is younger bro
having married
f England. He
g8, and king o
» remarkable, ex
recent war it wa
Proflia.
w conducted b
ough rarely fury
annot be highl
from France ¢
ation of England
e applaule, fine
orge IL: it wa
f city is Hanover
, fituated ont
b city is firlt mer
containing abo
he Leine, isa
tics. Gottingé
uls, a neat a
Verden, 0
ount, but hast
the Hanover
name to the el
in the —
of this cledo
en, cotton, for
ated in German
t, with fome c
hat of the fan
he lofty and p
pdudts are whe
ty
GERMAN STATES. 293
ne, barley, oats, peas, haricots and pot-herbs of all kinds; with abun-
ince of potatoes, good fruits, flax, hemp, tobacco, madder, &c.
Wood abounds both for fuel and architeéture, and affords confiderable
untities of tar and pitch. Bees are particularly attended to. Horfes,
gttle, and fheep are numerous. The chief river is the Elbe towards the
wrth; and the Wefer and Leine on the weit ; with the Aller and Ilme-
nuinthe centre. Smaller ftreams are the Loha, the Lutter, the Fufe,
yt the Siber which pervades the Hartzwald in the fouth. There are a
tw fall lakes, as that of Diepholtz, and Stinhudder ; but none equal in
ito thofe in the adjacent province of Mecklenburg. The Hanoverian
jyninions coutain many fmall forefts, and woods, befides thofe of the
Hartz, already defcribed in the enumeration of the German mountains.
The mineralogy is rich, confilting of filver, copper, lead, iron, cobalt,
inc; with marble, flate, coal, turf, and limeftone, the laft particularly
fom the hill of Kalkberg near Luneburg. Two curious mineral fub-
tances, boracite and ftaurolite, are found, the former in the Kalkberg,
delatter at Andreafberg in the Hartz : which region likewife prefents
jveral fingular features of nature, as the cavern of Blackenburg, the
yrnination of which has never been explored, and the cave of Hamelen.
The bifhopric of Ofnabrack in Weftphalia may be confidered as an
wpanage of Hanover, adjoining to the county of Diepholtz. By the
treaty of Ofnabruck, 1648, it was decided that this bifhopric fhould be
ffeffed alternately by a catholic and a proteftant, the former at the choice
if thechapter; but the latter always a prince of the houfe of Hanover,
vho was to have the civil and criminal fuperiority ; while the ecclefiaftic
{airs are adminiftered by the archbifhop of Cologne. Inhabitants about
120,000: revenue 26,250l.
Having thus defcribed, at fome length, the two chief and leading prin-
cpilities on the north of the Mayn, a few others, the next in power,
may be briefly mentioned ; for it would be a vain wafte of the reader’s at-
tention, and indeed only render his knowledge more confufed and imper-
kd, if even fhort accounts were attempted of the 300 princes and ftates
which crowd the labyrinth of Germany: princes whofe territories under
amonarchy would fink into the geographical obfcurity of thofe of a peer
w landed gentleman; and ftates which may be more aptly fought in a
getter, or in the minute and laborious ages of Bufching.
In this fecondary view of the north of Germany the firft place muft
beafigned to Heflia, a country of no mean extent nor fame. Some
ditrits, as ufual, being affigned to princes of the family, the ruling ftate
isdenominated Heffe Caifel fo called from the capital. This territory
is about 80 Britifh miles in length, and nearly the fame in breadth 3
tiles fquare, 2760, with 750,000 inhabitants, military force 12,000,
Thederivation of Heffi from the ancient Catti is arbitrary, and it is now
tonceived to originate from the river Effe, which runs into the Fulda;
but this land was a feat of the ancient Cattiaus. This country is genes
nlly mountainous; but there are many pleafant vales, fometimes contain-
ing vineyards, and fields fertile in corn and pafturage. It abounds in
me and fifth, and there are many foffils and minerals; the fands of the
der contain particles of gold; and there was formerly a mine of that
netal, but of fmall account, near Frankenberg. There are alfo found
flver, copper, lead, coal, fine clays, with veins of marble and alabatter,
ind fome medicinal waters. Detached parts are watered by the Rhine
indthe Mayn ; the fmaller rivers are very numerous, There are {lates of
three orders, nobles, clergy, and burgeffes from Caf Marburg, and
wher towns, The religion is the severe with two or three fuperin.
3 tcndants.
294 GERMAN STATES.
tendants, The univerfities are thofe of Marburg and Rinteln, and that
of Gieffen belonging to Hefle Darmftadt, ruled by another branch of the
family. There is fome trade from the natural produdts, and a few many.
factures of linen, cloth, hats, ftockings, &c. The chief city is Caffe}
which contains about 22,000 inhabitants, and is pleafing, though often
injured by war; the Heffians wang more remarkable for expoling their
lives abroad, than for a vigorous defence of their native country. Hanay
is alfo a confiderab!e place; and the country fo called is fuppofed to con.
tain 100,000 fouls.
The duchy of Mecklenburg is fuppofed to contain 4,800 fquare miles,
In
grinch
103,00
princes
{flay Id
the co
Voigtle
the city
The
principal
with 375,000 inhabitants, or by Hoeck’s account 300,000. It is di. unite
vided into two parts, known by the additions of Schwerin and Guftry
full of lakes, heaths and marfhes; and the foil being fandy, produces
little but rye and oats, ‘This country was long poffefled by the Vencti
or Wends, being the fartheft weltern fettlement of that Slavonic nations
and the peafants remain in a ftate of fervitude, as was the cafe in Den.
mark, and many parts of Germany. The ftates, confilting of nobility
und burgeffes, are affembled yearly to regulate the taxation. ‘The religion
is the Lutheran, with fix fuperintendants ; and an univerfity at Roflock,
The manufactures are wool and tobacco ; the exports,. partly by Lubec,
partly by Hiamburgh, are grain, flax, hemp, hops, wax, honcy, cattle,
~ butter, cheefy, fruits, feathers, dried geefe, tallow, linfeed, wool, and
timber. ‘The ruling tamily defcends Ae the old Venedic fovereigns,
The branch of Mecklenburg Strelitz began in the end of the feventeenth f Ofnab
century, and enjoys Ratzburg, darcwee and other provinces, ‘ h *
The Duke of Bruntwick thared a part of the Hartz, and its impor. Ao
tant mines *. "The face of the country refembles the ele¢torate of Ha.
nover. Here is a rich convent of nuns at Ganderfheim of the Lutheran
erfualion, the abbefs being generally a princefs of the family. There
are feveral finall manufactures ; and the ftrong beer of Brunfwick, called
mum, is exported from Hamburgh,
Nor mutt the city of Hamburgh be omitted, being, after Vienna and
Berlin, the third city in Germany, and fuppofed to contain 100,000 in.
{uth o
The to
fouls.
The
rtin tl
ofthe Ri
furty ac
and the
whofe ex
bieed by
chiefly in
duchy of
6, In the
Wurtzbu
eeclefialti
bitants s
"0,000 Lo
eilarged b
the more {
, ermany
habitants, or by Hoeck’s aceount 95,0004 while no other, except Dref vt . be
den and Franktort on the Mayn, cantain move than 30,000. It was for. Seleed
tified by Charlemagne A.D. S08, The Elbe is here, including the
iflands, near a mile broad. ‘The houfes are rather eommodious than ele.
gant, and there are few fine ttreets, the population being overcrowded
on account of the fortifications, built in the old Dutch tafle, with fpacious
ramparts, planted with trees. It is ruled by a fenate of 37 perfons, the
form being ariflocratic. The religion is Lutheran, ? ere are Con.
fiderable breweries, and works for retining fugar, with fome manufaGures
of cloth. Formerly the trade chiefly coniilted of linens, weoilens, wine,
fugar, coffee, {piceries, metals, tobacco, timber, leather, corn, dried fill,
furs, &c.; but at prefent it is the great mart of the commerce of the Bri.
tifh ifles with the continent. The bank was founded in 16195 and the
numerous libraries do honouy io the tale of the inhabitants. Its chief de
pendencies are the river of Alfteg, the bailliage of Ham, fome ifles and
lowlands on the Elbe; and, befides fome diftritts acquired from Holttein,
the baillioge of Ritzebuttel, on the north of the duchy of Brenen, in
cluding the port of Cuxhaven, and the ifle called Neueweik, fituated
oppoiite to that port +.
TH
Elorate Q,
—
S in th
Praffi
Saxony and
there are tw
(thefe elect
The eled
condary pos
with 1.9349
* Recently exchanged with Hanover for another difsiat. a pelagy
t Bufching, xi, 146-—168 ¢ Rhine, |
teln, and that
branch of the
da few manu.
city is Caffel,
though often
expoling their
ntry. Hanay
ppoled to con.
0 {quare miles,
000. It is di.
in and Guttro,
andy, produces
by the Vencti,
slavonic nation;
he cafe in Den.
ting of nobility
n. The religion
fity at Roflock,
artly by Lubee,
» honey, cattle,
feed, wool, and
edic fovereigns,
f the feventeenth
VINCCS,
, and its impor.
-torate of Ha.
of the Lutheran
family. There
brunfwick, called
after Vienna and
tain 100,000 in.
er, except Dref-
oo. Tt was for.
e, including the
odious than ele.
ng overcrowded
Ne, with {pacious
perfons, the
if be are con
e manufactures
GERMAN STATES. 295
In this northern half of Germany are alfo Oldenburg, now a detached
incipality, pofleffed. by 75,000 inhabitants ; Swedifh Pomerania,
43,0003 the principality of Anhalt, 100,000 ; the territorics of the
rnces Of Naflau, 130,000 of the princes of Schwartzburg in Thurin-
iit) 100,000 3 the princes of Waldeck on the north of Heffia, 80,000;
te counts of Lippe, in Weftphalia, 95,000: the counts of Reufs in
Voigtland, which they fhare with the elector of Saxomy, 66,000; and
iecity of Frankfort on the Mayn, 36,000. ai
The town of Papenburg is fituated om the fouthern frontier of the
wincipality of Eatt Friefland, and the northern frontier of the county of
Hunter, to the eaftward of the Ems, and about 24 Britifh miles to the
juth of Emden. It belongs to the Baron of Landfberg Veelen.
Te town at prefent contams two churches, 400 houfes, and 3000
aul’.
rhe other chief powers are ecclefialtic: 1. The eleGtor of Mentz, the
frtin the empire, has loft his capital city, and Worms on the left bank
fthe Rhine ; but he ftill holds a large territory on the Mayn, with Ex.
ft, a city of £5,000 inhabitants in the northern region of Thuringia,
ad the furrounding domain. 2. The elector of Triers, or Trewes,
shofe extenfive dominions, being chiefly on the left of the Rhine, are
jieed by the French. 3. The elector of Cologne, whofe territories are
iefly in the like predicament, but who poffefies the province called the
duchy of Wektphalia. 4. In Wettphalia are the bifhopricks of Muntfter,
of Olnabruck, and Paderborn ; the rich bifhoprick of Liege is immerged
i the French conqueits. 5. In Lower Saxony that of Hildefheim.
fInthe Upper Rhine that of Fulda: and 7. the large bithoprick-of
Wutzburg, in Franconia, is chiefly on the north of the Mayn. The
ecefattical eletorates were computed each at more than 300,000 inha-
hitants; and the bifhoprics, from that of Hildetheim, the {mallett,
*000 to Wurtzburg, 200,000. ‘Thefe extenfive fees, founded and
clarged by the policy of Charlemagne and his fucceilors, partly for
‘he more {peedy and effeétual convertion of the pagans in the north of
Germany, and partly to balance the riling power of the arillocracy,
sich afterwards proved fo ruinous fo the empire, have beeu recently
kcularized.
CHAPTER ITI.
THE GERMAN STATES ON THE SOUTH OF THE MAYN.
Eidorate of Bavaria conjoined with the Palatinate.—Duchy of !\'uieaburg.
—Anfpach —Salzia.—Smatler States. — Ecclefiaflie £ sers.
weollens, wine,
corn, dried fh,
erce of the Bri-
16195 and the}
s. Its chief des
» fome ifles and
from Holttein,
of Bre nen, in
ewer ky fituated
§ in the northern divifion of Germany there are, excluive of the
Pruffian dominions, two preponderating powers, the clectors of
Saxony and Hanover ; fo in the fouthern divifion, exclufive of Auittria,
there are two fuperior potentates, the Elector Palatine and of Bavarii
(thefe electorates being now conjoined ), and the duke of Wuriemburg.
The eletor of Bavaria and the Palatinate is the chief of all thefe te-
condary powers, his dominions being computed at 16,176 miles fquare,
with 1,934,000 inhabitants, or, accortling to Hoeck, 1,844,000. The
French having feized more than half of the Palatinate on the left bank of
ie Rhine, (a mountainous region, but pay in mines of ue
U4 an,
£96 GERMAN STATES.
and other valuable metals,) the remaining part, on the right bank of the |
river, is about twenty-four Britifh miles in length, by the fame at its yt
molt breadth ; but contains the beft part of the principality, pervaded } ;
the river Neckar, producing excellent wines, and enriched by the Gites
of Manheim and Heidelberg. The firft patatine of the Rhine was Eber. |
hard of Franconia, A.D. 925. The Lutheran religion was eftablitheg
in 1556, and in 1563 appeared the famous catechifm of Heidelberg ; but
fince 1685 the Catholic fyftem has predominated. In the thirteenth
century the houfe of Bavaria acquired the Palatinate by Marriage, and
from it the modern family defcended. Frederick V., EleQor Palatine
3610, married E!'zabeth daughter of James I. of England ; and afpired
to the crown of Bohemia, but was vanquithed, and the electorate tranf,
ferred to the houfe of Bavaria: yet by the treaty of Weitphalia, 14 8, ;
his fon regained a part of his dominions, and was created an eighth clegor
of theempire. This branch, failing in 1685, was fucceeded by the colla.
teral branch of Deux Ponts. In 1694 the Palatinate was rendered almoft
a defert by the notorious ravages of the French.
The hiftory of Bavaria is yet more important. The country was go.
verned by dialeons under the kings of Auttrafia ; and in the ninth century
rinces of the Francic family aflumed the ftyle of kings of Bavaria, while
iutpold, 889, was the firft duke; and his progeny extend to the prefent
day, though interrupted in 946, when, Berthold dying without children
the emperor Otho gave Bavaria to his brother Henry,of Saxony, tn
1071 Welph, fon of Azo of Efte, became duke of Bavaria; which in
1138 pafled to the houfe of Auftria, but in 1154 returned to the houfe of
Welph, in the perfon of Henry the Lion. In 1180 it finally returned to
the firft family, by the fucceffion of Otho of Wittelbach, a de‘cendant cf
Arnolf, fecond duke of Bavaria, after the family had been unjuttly deprived
for more thantwo centuries. ‘he emperors Lewis, 1314,andCharles VII,
1740, were of this family.
The duchy of Bavaria is divided into Upper and Lower, and what js
called the Higher Palatinate (or that of Bavaria). ‘The length from N,
to S. is fomewhat interrupted, but may be about 150 Britith miles, and
the breadth about 120. Upper Bavaria is, in a great degree, moun.
tainous, and covered with foretts, interfperfed with large and {magl lakes,
Lower Bavaria is more plain and fertile. ‘There are mines of filver and
copper near Podenmais, in the bailliage of Viechtach, and of lead at
Reichenthal, with many quarries of marble, and mineral {prings. But
the chief mineral riches of Bavaria confift in the falt {prings at Trauntein,
which occupy many people in productive induitry. The mountains o
Upper Bavaria may be confidered as branches of the Alps. The chic
rivers are the Danube, the Inn, the Ifer, the Lech, and the Nab; and
in the Palatinate the Neckar. The religion is the Roman Catholic,
which, as ufual, damps the {pirit of indullry ; and the manufactures are
of {mall account, the chief exports being corn and cattle. The revenve
is computed at 1,166,600l. ; and the military force at 12,000: both
being reatly inferior to the {maller electorate of Saxony. ‘The chiet
city is Munich, efteemed the molt elegant in Germany, with 38,000 in
habitants; in Lower Bavaria are Landfhut and Strauben; Ration,
though feized by the elector of Bavaria, 1703, is regarded as a free and
imperial city. In the palatinate of the Rhine is Manheim, fuppofed to
hokd 24,000 inhabitants; and Hiedelberg, noted for wines, aud formerly
for a valuable library transferred to the Vatican. This city, amidit the
infamous deflruction of the Palatinate, was reduced to mere walls, but
afterwards reftored by the indultrious Lutherans.
The
Th
Labi
Ingold
a8 a
the h
gic of
with tl
The
domini
This d
the bail
century
cale of
fueceffi
dukedo|
comput
the mo
deed, a
the Blad
only di
The chi
the fert
fo abunc
and cop
eins
coal, po
fitute tl
medical {
ld, an
he ttate
right tor
Calvinilts
four fupe
a fynod
{ludies in
in any o
contain a
Stutgard
fk; wh
fiderable
city is §
Neckar,
ings are e
The fecor
1477.
thickly p!
Amon;
mutt firlt’
tains a po
mountaine
mines are
Bareuth y
rls. Th
hach ; anc
annexed te
: bank of the |
ame at its ut.
’y pervaded by
l by the cities
ine was Eber.
vas eftublithed
idelbere s but
the thirteenth
marriage, and @
eCtor Palatine,
d; and afpired
letorate tranf.
itphalia, 1648,
n eighth cledtor
led by the colla.
rendered almoft
ountry was go.
ie minth century
f Bavaria, while
id to the prefent
ithout children,
of Saxony, In
varia ; which in
‘d to the houfe of
nally returned to
, a de!cendant of
unjuttly deprived,
and Charles VII,
wer, and what is
length from N,
Rritifh miles, and
degree, moun.
and {magl lakes.
mes of filver andi
and of lead at
1 fprings. But
gsat ‘T'raunftein,
he mountains o
Ips. The chief
the Nab; and
Roman Catholic,
anufactures are
. The revenve
12,000: both
pny. ‘The chiet
with 35,000 ne
bben ; Ratitbon,
ed as a free and
im, fuppofed to
+8, aud formerly
sity, amidit the
mere walls, but
The
GERMAN STATES. 207
The Bavarians are little diftinguifhed in literature ; but are a vigorous
nee, adapted to the fatigues of war. There is however an univerlity at
ingolditadt, and an academy of fciences at Munich. The ftates coniitt,
«tual, of clergy, nobility, and burgeffes ; but before the acceffion of
the houfe of Deux Ponts, the adminiitration had become the moft lethar-
icof any inGermany. At prefent this electorate is intimately conneéted
with the French republic.
The fecond potentate in the fouth is the duke of Wurtemburg, whofe
{minions are computed at 3,200 fquare miles, with 600,000 inhabitants.
this duchy derives its name from the caltle of Wurtemburg, fituated in
thebailliage of Canftadt. There were earls of Wurtemburg in the twelfth
entury 5 and in 1495 the ducal title was conferred on earl Everard. In
aleof the extinction of the family, the houfe of Auttria pretends to the
{yceflion, and even now aflumes the title and arms of Wurtemburg. The
dukedom of ‘Teck was added in the fourteenth century. ‘The revenue is
computed at 245,0001., the,military force at 6000. This duchy forms
the moft confiderable and fertile part of the circle of Swabia ; and is in-
ied, after Saxony, one of the belt in the empire. The mountains of
the Black Foreft on the weft, and thofe of the Alb on the S. and E., not
oily diverfify the face of the country, but fupply timber, fuel, and mines.
The chief grain is fpelt, and fome barley and wheat, with flax, &c., and
the fertility fuffices even for export. The wines of the Neckar are not
foabundant as to fuperfede the ufe of cyder. There are mines of filver
ad copper near Freudenftadt, and at Konigfwart ; of filver at Konig-
ein; and of copper at Guttach, near Hornberg. Cobalt, fulphur,
coal, porcelain clay, marble, alabafler, with the falt works at Sulz, con-
fitute the other mineral produ€tions, - There are many warm baths and
medical {prings, and the chief river is the Neckar, which, with the Na-
tld, and its other tributary ftreams, enlivens and fertilifes the duchy.
The ttates confift of fourteen fuperior clergy, and the deputies of fixty-
ght towns and bailliages. The religion is the Lutheran, with fome
Calvinilts, and fome colonies of the Vaudois, The church is ruled by
four fuperintendants, who are ftyled abbots, and thirty-eight rural deans :
afynod is annually held in the autumn, Education and ecclefiaftical
fudies in particular, are favoured by laudable inftitutions, not to be found
in any other proteftant country. ‘The feminary of Tubingen ufed to
conta about 300 ftudents; and there is an acaderny of education at
Stutgard. ‘There are manufactures of pottery, gla/s, woollen, linen, and
ilk; which, with the natural products of the covniry, fupply a con-
fderable export ; the importe are by Frankfort on the Mayn. ‘The chief
city is Stutgard, agreeably fituated on a rivulet which flows into the
Neckar, and the ducal refidence lince the year 1321. Some of the build-
ings are elegant, and there is a cabinet of natural and artificial curiofities.
The fecond town is Tubingen on the Neckar, with an univertity founded
int477. The other towns are fmall but numerous, and the villages
thickly placed in a populous and flourithing country.
Among the fecondary powers, in this fouthern divifion of Germany,
mutt firit be named Anfpach, or Onolfbach, which, with Bareuth, main.
tains a population of 320,000 on 2,300 fquare miles, ‘Thefe regions are
mountainous and fandy ; but near the Mayn yield good wine. ‘The chief
mines are of Jron, the others being neglected. ear the F itchtelberg,
Bareuth produces a variety of beautiful marbles, and fome curious mine.
ras. The principality of Bareuth is alfo known by the name of Culm.
hach; and, with Onolfbach, forms the chief power in Franconia, now
aunexed to the fovereignty of V’ruffia,
The
298 GERMAN STATES.
The country of the Salz, alfo called Salzia, and the archbifhoprick of
Salzburg, is a compact and interefting region, about 100 Englith Miles
in length, and 60 at its greateft breadth ; computed at 2,885 {quare |
miles, and a population of 250,000; by Hoeck’s account, on]
The arelibitbop ie primate of all Gacnaty. the fee beiag founded by or
Rupert, an Englifhman, in 716. The chapter confilts of twenty-four
perfons, of noble extraét ; and in political affairs is wholly ruled by Auf.
tria, there being twenty-two Aultrians in the chapter. The archbithoy.
rick poffefles many fair lordfhips in Auttria, Stiria, and Carinthia, Sal).
burg, theancient Juvavum, has an univerlity, with about 20,000 inhab;
tants; the other towns being of little moment. The Roman Catholic
fyftem has banifhed many induftrious inhabitants, who have chiefly taken
refuge in the Pruffian dominions. The falt works at Hallen, about twelye
miles S. of Salzburg, are very lucrative. ‘There are alfo in Salzia fome
mines of filver and lead; and one of gold at Galtein, and others alon
the northern fide of the Alps to Zillerthal. The copper is often impreg.
nated with gold, which ufed to be a fource of gain to the melters of
Nurenburg and Augfburg.
This grand fouthern divifion of Germany alfo contains the territories
of the Margraves of Baden, 832 {quare miles, with 200,000 inhabitants.
the lands of Heffe Darmftadt, belonging to another reigning branch of
the houfe of Heffia, refiding at Dramiladt, and alfo oct
on the northern fide of the Maya, both eltimated under the article of
Heffia. The imperial city of Nuremberg has contiderably declined, but
it {till contains about 30,000 fouls, while Ulm has not above half the
number. To enumerate other fmall fecular principalities would only ob.
ftru& the intention of this defcription, which is to imprefs on the
memory the more important.
But as the intention of fecularizing the numerous and wide ecclefiattical
territories in Germany mutt engage much political confideration, jit js
proper to add here, as has been done in the former chapter, a lift of the
chief fees to the fouth of the Mayn. 1. The archbifoprick of Saly.
burg, being among the leading powers, has been already defcribed,
2. The large bifhoprick of Wurtzburg, being chiefly on the north of the
Mayn, has been mentioned in the former chapter: the next in impor.
tance, but often held in conjunétion with the former, is that of Bamburg,
fuppofed to contain 180,000 inhabitants. 4. The bifhoprick of Speyr,
or by the French enunciation Spire, was {uppefed to contain 50,000, but
of thefe probably one half, on the weft bank of the Rhine, are now fub.
je& to France. 5. The bifhoprick of Aichftett, in the fouthern ex.
tremity of Franconia. 6. Suabia prefents the large and opulent bifhop.
rick of Augfburg, with an extent of territory about 70 Englith miles in
length, but the medial breadth not exceeding twelve. 7. OF Conttance,
whofe territories alf extend into Swifferland. 8. A great part of the
bifhoprick of Strafburg. gy. ‘The large abbatial territories of Kempten,
Buchau, and Lindeu; with the prory of Ellwangen, in the north,
10. The bifhoprick of Paflau, in Bavaria, is computed at 25,000 in
habitants. 11. That of Freyfingen, with the county of Werdenfels,
near the Rhetian Alps, at 23,000. 12. The bifhoprick of Ratilboa,
which is of fmall extent.
Recently, the conftitution of the German Empire has been annihi-
lated. The kings of Bavaria and Wurtemberg, the eleétors or grand
dukes of Baden and Heffia, and other princes near the Rhine, have
formed a grand confederation, acknowledged by Pruffia; the emperor
Francis IL, by his declaration of Auguit 2, 1806, formally retigned
the title and power of emperor of G
Auitria.
effing territories | |
ermany, only retaining that of §
will alfa
af the «
for con}
defcript
delineate
infuenc
Divi
tory, dir
The fou
with the
of Rom
Gaul.
occupied
centre.
kingdom
palled in
ad the y
parts fhal
mouth of
ing that 3
to its fon
of Speziz
the chure!
Lunenfis,
natural an
baelly cor
the gener,
Bounp
deeply imy
ranean fea
France, §
Rofa, the
8 about ¢
Adriatic ;
recent limi
departmen
8 about 2
Pelafj gi fro
lucceeded
bithoprick of
Englith miles |
2,880 fquare
only 200,000,
nunded by St,
t twenty-four
ruled by Auf.
archbifhop.
rinthia. Salz. |
0,000 inhabi.
yman Catholic
e chiefly taken
1, about twelve
in Salzia fome
1 others along
s often impreg-
the melters of
the territories
20 inhabitants ;
ning branch of
offing territories |
the article of
y declined, but
above half the
would only ob.
imprefs on the
ide ecclefiattical
fideration, it is
r, a lift of the
poprick of Salz.
eady defcribed.
he north of the
b next in impor.
at of Bamburg,
rick of Speyr,
in 50,000, but
, are now fub-
le fouthern ex-
ypulent bifhop-
Znglith miles i
of Conttance,
at part of the
s of Kempten,
in the north,
at 25,000 ine
£ Werdenfels,
of Ratilboa,
: been annihi-
Rtors or grand
‘ Rhine, have
the emperor
ally religned
ining that of §
( 299 )
ITALIAN STATES.
CHAPTER L.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ITALY.
Dinifiont.— Boundaries. — Extent.—Original Population.—Prefent Piopula-
tion —L'ace of the Country. — Rivers. —Lakes.—Mountains.— Botany.—
Zoology.
SHE claffical and interefting country of Italy has been fo repeatedly
i| defcribed, that it has become familiar even to the common reader.
this defcription fhall therefore be reftri€ted to very narrow limits ; and
yillalfo of neceffity be fomewhat abridged by the prefent unfettled ftate
of the country, which, on many topics, fcarcely leaves materials even
fr conjecture. Hence the political and civil departments of a i rr
{e(cription are almoft obliterated ; and this brief account fhall chiefly
jlineate thofe lafting features of nature which no political change can
influence.
"Divistons.] Italy may be regarded as having been in all ages of hif-
try, divided into three parts, the fouthern, the central, and the northern.
The fouthern part having received many Greek colonies was honoured
with the ancient appellation of Magna Grecia: the centre was the feat
af Roman and Etrurian power ; while the northern was the Cifalpine
Gaul. In the middle ages the kingdom of Lombardy and that of Naples
occupied the two extremities, while the church and Tufcan ftates held the
centre. In more modern times, the moft diftin@ divifion has been the
kingdom of Naples in the fouth: but the centre, and the north, have
piled into various fubdivifions and denominations. For which reafons,
ud the prefent uncertain ftate of the country, the northern and middle
parts fhall be confidered rather geographically than politically ; the chief
nouth of the Po being affumed for the limit on the E., thence follow-
ing that river till it is joined by the Panaro, (the ancient Scultenna,) up
toits fource near Cattiglione ; and thence in a wefterly line to the gulph
of Spezia, thus tracing nearly the boundary between the former {paces of
the church, and thofe of Modena, while the gulph of Spezia, (Portus
Luenfis,) almoft the eaftern reach of the Genoefe territory, prefents a
natural and remarkable boundary in t'ie weft. Thefe divifions hall be
belly confidered in the fucceedine chapters, while this is dedicated to
the general defeription of Italy.
Bounpanigs, &c.] The boundaries of this renowned country are
deeply imprefled by the hand of mature, in the Adriatic and Mediter-
rinean feas, and the grand barrier of the Alps, which divide it from
France, Swifferland, and Germany. The length of Italy from mount
Rofa, the higheit fummut of the Italian Alps, to the Cape de Leuca,
is about 670 Britifh miles; while the medial breadth between the
Adriatic and Mediterranean is about too; but from the Adige, the
recent limit of Auttrian power, tu the eaftern frontiers of the new French
departments of Liman and Mont Blane (formerly Savoy), the breadth
is about 200 miles. ‘The original population of the fouth confifled of
Pelafgi from the Peloponnefus ; the northern part of [llyrians, who were
lucceeded by German Gauls; and the Etr sof the centre are fasd
to
2)
oe aE RS A I ae ae
me Roagee B
ie
ne atten eg
pang ee BE 2
309 ITALIAN STATES.
to have been of Lydian extraét. The Romans feem to derive their §
origin from the early Greek colonies; and their language was regarded
as an /Eolic dialect of the Greek : but as they proceeded from the mot
barbarous~part of Greece at an early epoch, it was a confiderable time
before their manners, rendered ferocious by inceffant wars, affumed a
tint of Grecian civilization, The fucceflive population, progreffive
geography, hiitorical epochs, and antiquities of Italy, are familiar to
every reader, but will occafionally be briefly commemorated in the {uc.
ceeding chapters. It is almoft fuperfluous to add, that the religion ig
the Roman Catholic, The prefent population of Italy, with the iflands
of Sicily and Sardinia, cannot be eftimated at more than 13,000,009 #,
The kingdom of Naples and Sicily contains about 6,000,000; the
central part about 3,000,000 ; and the northern about four. The man.
ners, cultoms, and dialects are various and difcordant, though the general
language be the Italian, efteemed the pureft in Tufcany, while the enun.
ciation is moft perfect at Rome.
FAcE oF THE CouNTRY.] Italy prefents fuch a variety of fcenery,
decorated with fuch noble archite@ture, and venerable remains of ‘ancient
art, amidita climate po ferene, though liable to violent rains, and
fuch delicious tints of aérial perfpeCtive, that the painter of landfcape is §
enraptured, and can render but feeble juftice to the picturefque fea.
tures and glowing hues of nature. In the north the fublime {cene
of the Alps is contrafted with the fertile plains, through which many
claffical ftreams flow into the Po. In the centre there are many
marthes and ftanding waters, which occafion what is called the mal
aria, or a pernicious diftemperature of the air; but the varied ridge
of the. Apennines, and the beautiful profpects of Florence and Ti.
voli, excite univerfal admiration. A great part of the kingdom of
Naples is mountainous; but the country generally beautiful ; yet in
addition to the fiery eruptions of Vefuvius and Etna, it is expofed
: the terrible effeds of frequent eartliquakes, and the enervating
irocco ft.
Rivers.] Italy is interfeted with rivers in almoft every direction,
of which the Po is by far the moft large and extenfive. This noble
river, called by the ancients Padus and Eridanus, : rifes from mount Ve.
fula, or Vifo, on the very confines of France and Italy, nearly in the
parallel of mount Dauphin, or Dauphiné, and Saluzzo, in Piedmont,
being almoft central between them, at the diftance of about eighteen
Englifh miles from each. Thus defcending from the centre of the
weltern Alps, the Po paffes to the N.E. of Saluzzo, by Carignan, to
Turin; receiving, even in this fhort {fpace, many rivers, as the Varrita,
Maira, and Grana from the §., and from the N. the Felice, Sagon, and
others. Moft of thefe ftreams having had a longer courfe than what is
called that of the Po; the Maira, for inftance, might perhaps be more
juttly regarded as the principal river: nay, the Tanaro, which flows
mto the Po fome miles below Alexandria, might haps claim, 1% the
river Stura, a more remote fource than the Po ‘felt, After leaving the
walls of Turin, the Po receives innumerable rivers and rivulets from
the Alps in the N. and the Apennines in the S, Among the former
may be named the Doria, the Tefino, the Adda, the Oglio, the Min
cio; to the eaft of which the Adige, an independent flream, defcend
* Boetticher,
+ Any pernicious wind is in Iraly called fvocco, in the fouth applied to the hot blafts from
Altiva, us dive north wo che bleak winds from the Alps. PF
rom,
from t
porfu
receive
Bormi
confeq
Parma
frontic
he cO
tributa
find a
fderab
are nec
draulics
merous
middle
and fo
the fea,
and the
fition th
The
Piavi, a
freans.
Int
nines, a
The Til
niddle,
$t. Mar
which it
faid to 1
brated i
Fiumefir
N.of R
from the
the Tibs
whofe, ca
LAKE
northern
Locarno
medial t
the wate
Lugano
territory
many tr
18 joined
Britifh m
Yet fartk
the nobl
length b:
In the
Bolfena,
celebrate
Nemi in
the Nea;
Vagano,
néae Len
to derive their &
> Was regarded
| from the moft
nfiderable time
‘ars, affumed a
On, progreffive
are familiar to
ted in the fuc.
the religion ig
with the iflands
) 13,000,000 ¥,
3000,0003 the
ur. The man.
ugh the general
while the enun.
iety of feenery,
nains of ancient
olent rains, and
of landfcape is §
picturefque fea.
fublime feenery
gh which many
ere are many
called the mal
he varied ridge
orence and Ti.
he kingdom of
autiful; yet in
» it is expofed
the enervating
every diredtion,
e. This noble
om mount Ve.
» nearly in the
» in Piedmont,
about eighteen
centre of the
by Carignan, to
as the Varrita,
ice, Sagon, and
fe than what is
thaps be more
0, which flows
s claim, im the
ter leaving the
rivulets from
png the former
glio, the Min.
ream, delcends
the hot blafts from
from
ITALIAN STATES. . gor
fom the Alps of Tyrol, and, refufing to blend his waters with the Po,
purfues his courfe to the gulph of Venice. From the fouth the Po firft
reeves the copious alpine river Tanaro, itfelf {welled by the Belba,
formida, and other ftreams. The other fouthern rivers are of far lefs
somfequence, but among them may be named the Trebbia, the river of
Pama, and the Banaro, which joins the Po at Stellato, on the weftern
fonticr Of the former territory of Ferrara. The courfe of the Po may
ye comparatively eftimated at about 300 Britifh miles. The numerous
tributary rivers, from the Alps and Apennines, bring down fo much
gad and gravel, that the bed of the Po has in modern times been con-
jderably raifed, fo that in many places banks of thirty feet in height
ae neceflary to preferve the country from inundation. Hence hy-
jaulics have been much ftudied in the north of Italy; and the nu-
nerous canals of irrigation delight and inftruct the traveller. In the
niddle ages maritime comhats took place on the Po, between Venice
ind fome of the inland powers. It is remarkable that, from Cremona to
the fea, there is no capital city founded on the main ftream of the Po;
andthe cafe was the fame in ancient times. an exception to the fuppo-
ftion that every river has fome grand city near itseltuary.
The other rivers of the north of Italy, as the Adige, the Brenta, the
Pavi, and the Tagliamento, mutt now rather be regarded as Auttrian
ftreaii9. ;
In the centre firft appears the Arno, which rifes in the Appen-
nines, and flows by Florence and Pifa into the gulph of Genoa.
The Tiber, an immortal ftream is by far the moft confiderable in the
niddle, or fouth of Italy, rifing near the fource of the Arno, S.E. of
$t. Marino, and paffing by Perugia and Rome, to the Mediterranean,
which it joins after a oiitle of about 150 Britifh miles. The Tiber is
fiid to receive about forty-two rivers, or torrents, many of them cele-
brated in Roman hiftory ; as is Rubicon, a diminutive itream, now the
Fumefino, which enters the Adriatic, about eight Britifh miles to the
N.of Rimini, In this central part of Italy many fmall ftreams flow
from the Apennines, both to the Mediterranean and Adriatic; but after
the Tiber no river can be mentioned in this or the fouthern @ivifion,
whofe,courfe deferves the notice of general geography.
Laxss.] Ttaly contains many Seautiful lakes, particularly in the
northern divifion, The Lago Maggiore, Greater Lake, or lake of -
Locarno, is about twenty-feven Britifh miles in length, by three of
medial breadth; and the fhores abound with alpine beauties, receiving
the waters of fome other lakes, among which mutt be mentioned that of
Lugano on the eaft. This lake formerly adjoined to the Milanefe
territory, and contains the beautiful Boromean ifles, celebrated by
many travellers. Still farther to the eaft is the lake of Como, which
is joined by that of Lecco: the lake of Como is about thirty-two
Britifh miles in length, but the medial breadth not above two and a half.
Yet farther to the eaft is the fmall lake of Ifeo, which is followed by
the noble Lago di Garda, an expanfe of about, thirty Britifh miles in
length by eight in breadth.
In the central part of Italy the largeft lakes are thofe of Perugia and
Bolfena, with thofe to the north of Rieti. Some frrall lakes are alfo
celebrated, as that of Albano, fhaded by trees and rocks, and that of
Nemiin the fame vicinity, about feventeen miles S.E. from Rome. In
the Neapolitan part is the lake of Celano in the north; and that of
Vagano, near mount Gargano. In the ifland of Sicily, that of Beverio,
neat Lentini, is the moft remarkable.
Mountains. ]
$02 « ITALIAN STATES.
Movunrains.] The moft important mountains of Italy are tha
Alps, already in a great meafure defcribed, under the article of Swif.
ferland. The maritime Alps rife from the fea to the weft of Oneglia
and are fucceeded by other denominations, extending due north to mount
Blanc, the ancient boundary of Savoy, and now a French mountain
The moft remarkable paflage through the maritime Alps is the Col de
Tende. Few fummits in this me chain have received particular
denominations; the chief are mount Vifo, which gives fource to the
Po, and mount Cenis, a noted paffage to Tyrin. Other names are
mount Genevre, mount Iferan, Roch Michel, &c. In general the
‘ weftern Alps rife, in fucceffive elevation, from the fea to mount Blanc,
Sauffure has explained, with his ufual ability, the compofition of this
chain of the Alps*. The calcareous mountains near Geneva are {yl.
lowed by granitic mixtures of mica and quartz, with argillaceous §
fchiftus, and ferpentine. From mount Blanc the grand chain of the
Italian Alps bends N.E., prefenting the high fummits of the great
St. Bernard, and mourt Maudit, Combin, Cervin, and mount Rofa,
the laft nearly aporozching mount Blanc itfelf in height. Mount Rofa |
forms, as it, were, a circus of gigantic peaks, furrounding the vil.
lage of Macugnaga, a fingularity of form ftrongly contralting with |
mount Blanc, and fuppofed to impart the name from fome refemblance
to an expanded roje+. While mount Blanc, and the adjacent high
fummits, are compofec of vertical ftrata, the moft elevated peaks of
mount Rofa are horizontal, or not inclined more than 30°. The ftruc.
ture is equally different ; for as mount Blanc confifts of vaft maffes of
granite, mount Rofa is chiefly of gneifs, or f{chiftofe granite, and other
flaty rocks.—So various are the great operations of nature, where theory
would expec fimilarity.
From mount Rofa this grand chain continues its progrefs N.E. by
Simplon, &c. through the country of the Grifons to the glaciers of
Tyrol, terminating in the Salzian Alps.
The next ovanid chain of Italian mountains is that of the Apennines,
which are at firft a branch of the Alps, feparating the plains of Piedmont
from the feat. They begin near Ormea, in that high ridge which now
forms the boundary of the French department of the maritime Alps, and
ftretch without any interruption along both fides of the gulph of
Genoa, at no great diftance from the fea, giving fource to many rivers
flowing to the north and to the eaft. In the fouth of the former ter.
ritory of Modena, after giving rife to the Panaro, and Reno, they
proceed almoit due eaft to the centre of Italy, where they afford
fources to the Arno, and the Tiber, and thence pafs S.E. to the ex:
tremities of Italy, generally approaching nearer to the Adriatic than to
the Mediterranean. The noted mount Gargano is, as it were, a {pur
of the Apennines to the north ofthe gu'iph of Manfredonia. In
general, the Apennines may rather be regarded as hille than as moun.
tains. Ferber § found them to confift, to the S. of Bologna, of firatified
grey hard limettone, with a few petrifications, Yet in the Genoefe ter.
ritory, and Tufcany, appear not only the beautiful marble of Carrara,
but rich ferpentine, here called Gabbro, with fleatite and afbeftos,
What is called granitone is alfo found, confifting of white felfpar and
reen mica ||. The territory of Sienna prefents fome granitic hills, with
Fate, ferpentine, and the aoted yellow marble with black veins, found at
® Voyage, teme v. + Sauffure, vill. $4. $ Ib. v. 221.
§ Lealy, 76, i Ib, 250. :
Montarenti,
ITALIAN STATES. 303
yontarenti, and many metallic ores ; this diftri& being, after Piedmont,
haps the richeft mineral region in Italy; but the hills feem rather
itinct than connected with the Appenine ridge. “
Having thus briefly confidered the chief ridges of Italian mountains,
thole fublime features of the country, the volcanoes muft not be omitted.
They only occur in the fouthern divifion, and have recently received {cien-
ife iluftration from the able and accurate pen of Spallanzani. Vefuvius
iyaconic detached mountain, about 3,600 feet.high, but feems chiefly
alcareous, like the Apennines, as it frequently ejects marble, calcareous
fe (a, gypfum, and fimilar fubitances *. ~ The lava is fometimes mingled
c. In general the mth felfpar, quartz, or granite, feemingly ejected from great depths.
fea to, mount Blane, fhe terrors of an eruption, the fubterranean thunders, the thickening
compofition of this fmoke, the ruddy flames, the ftony fhowers ejcéted to a prodigious
ear Geneva are fol- iright, amidit the corrufcations of native lightning, the throes of the
zZ, with argillaceous mountain, the eruption of the lava, defvending in a horrid and copious
grand chain of the tream of deitruétion, have exercifed the powers of many writers, but
ummits of the great frexceed the utmott energy-of defcription.
ny and mount Rofa, Yet Vefuvius, placed by the fide of Etna, would feem a fmall ejected
eight. Mount Rofa til, the whole circuit of its bafe not excceding 30 m les, while Etna
furrounding the vil vers a {pace of 180, and its height above the fea is « ited at about
gly contralting with 11,000 feet +. This enormous mafs is furrounded by | ..ailer mountains,
om fome refemblance fme of which equal Vefuvius in fize ; and while the lava of the latter
id the adjacent high may devolve its ftream for feven miles, Etna will emit a liquid fire thirty
ft elevated peaks of nilesinlength, The crater of Vefuvius never exceeds half a mile in cir-
van 30°. The ftruc. amference, while that of Etna is commonly three, and fometimes fix
fts of vatt maffes of niles. Spallanzani has minutely defcribed the crater of Etna, which
fe granite, and other many travellers have pretended to vilit. It was an oval, extending
nature, where theory fom E. to W., inclofed by vait fragments of lava and feoriz ; the inner
fides being of various deciinations, incrufted with orange coloured con-
eetions of fal-ammoniac. ‘The bottom was a plain, nearly horizontal,
about two thirds of a mile in circumference, with a large circular aper-
ture, giving vent to a column of white fmoke, at the bottom of which
wa vilible a liquid fiery matter, like metal, boiling in a furnace. Such
isthe height of Etna, that the eruptions rarely attain the fummit, but
nore wfually break out at the fides. Near the crater begins the region of
perpetual {now ard ice ; which is followed by the woody region; con-
iting of vaft forelts of oak, beeches, firs, and pines, while the upper is
molt deititute of vegetation. In this middle region alfo appear chefnut
h of the former ter- trees of enormous fize. The lava and fubttances eje&ted from the crater
ro, and Reno, they ae moltly the fame as are met with at Vefuvius; but a. peculiarity is,
where they afford thatin many parts of the circumference of this mountain there are prif-
pafs S.E. to the exe matic columns of bafalt. .
the’ Adriatic than to The iflands of Lipari, to the north of Sicily, alfo contain many vol-
By as it were, a {put canoes, of which Stromboli is the chief. This crater is diltinguifhed
f Manfredonia. In itm any other by con{tant momentary eruptions of fhowers of ftones,
hille than as moun. which, from its pofition in the fide of the hill, are confined, and relapfe
Bologna, of ftratified to the volcano; thus fupplying endlefs materials {. The ifle called
in the Genoefe ter- Vulcano prefents a moft.capacious crater : but the materials of eruption
marble of Carrara, fem exhauited. The ifle of Lipari, containing the town fo called, pre-
eatite and _afbeftos. fats vatt rocks of volcanic glafs; and the hill called Campo Bianco,
f white felf ar and thee miles from the town of Lipari, contains almott all the pumices
granitic hills, with which are employed for various purpofes in Europe. Felicuda, and Ali.
black veins, found.at suday the two extreme Liparian iflands towards the weit, alfo difplay
3 of Italy ate the
the article of Swif.
he weft of Oneglia,
due north to mount
a French mountain,
Alps is the Col de
received particular
gives fource to the
Other names are,
s progrefs N.E, by
ns to the glaciers of
at of the Apennines,
e plains of Piedmont
igh ridge which now
b maritime Alps, and
s of the gulph of
burce to many rivers
3 bb. v, 921. * Faber, 139. + Spathunzani, i195, t Ibu 52.
Montarenti, proofs
SS wage V4
VA \ NI Ny
“Sy
Sf
(716) 672-4503
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
6
C
on
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
Meee Mie Mt
a2 S
co noe
\
304 ; ITALIAN STATES.
roofs of their having ahciently contained volcanoes: and recent authors
ave difcovered fimilar proofs in the ifle of Ifchia, and in thofe of * Ponza
to the north of the gulph of Naples ; while that of Capri, to the § of
that gulph, is f{uppofed to be chiefly calcareous. : ;
ORESTs.] ‘There are ftill fome remains of forefts in fome parts of
the Appennines; but the early civilization of Italy feems to have
been dladvanta eous to the growth of timber. The woods of mount
Gargano are celebrated by the ancient claffics, and the foreits of
Etna appear to be extenfive.
Borany.] It is probable that the botanic treafures of Italy are at
leaft equal to thofe of any other European country on account of the
great variety of its foil, the irregularity of its furface, and the general
benignity of its climate: excepting however Piedmont, which has been
ably furveyed by Allioni, the relt of this fine country, efpecially its
fouthern provinces, has by no means received that degree of notice
which it merits; the vale of Enna, the forefts of Apulia, the. romantic
fcenes of Calabria, and the warm fhore of the Tarentine bay contain a
rich harveft for future naturalilts, and will no doubt grace the flora of
Italy with many new {pecies.
The Alpine barrier of the north of Italy, andthe long range of
the Appennines prefent a number of plants, inhabitants of the highett
Fe te which have already been enumerated in the botany of Swif.
erland. .
The weftern coaft has been perhaps the beft explored, and has in con.
fequence been found to be profufe of beauties: the {tately tree heath, with
two elegant flirubby euphorbias, the evergreen arbutus, and the tamarifk,
mantle over the fummits of the cliffs, or bend midway from them towards
the fea: the dryer rocks, and of a more fcanty foil, are crowned with the
great aloc, while their fides were adorned with the Indian fig. The ftony
beach, and the fandy recefles of the bays delight the eye with the {nowy
bloffoins of the caper bufh, and the glow of the amethyitine eryngo, wit
the lavender, the rofemary, the glaucous foliage of the ftrong {cented
rue, and the ftately growth of the lavatera arborea.
The fides of the ftreams are bordered by the oleander, the myrtle, the
Cornelian cherry, and the Spanith reed, whofe tall jointed ftem, and long
fimple leaves almoft emulate the bamboo of India.
The dry heathy tra¢éts of the interior of the country are covered with
heaths, ciltufes of various {pecies, the fumach, cinnamon rofe, fage, and
other aromatic plants.
Among the trees, befides the common ones of Britain, we find the
olive, the date plumb, the ftorax tree, the bead tree, the almond, the
pomegranate, Bo azarole plum, the pyracantha, the carob tree, the ilex,
the piltachia, the manna tree, the cyprefs, the date palm, the lemon, the
orange, the fig, and the vine.
OF the flowering fhrubs, and lower trees, the principal are the lilac,
the jafinine, and yellow jafmine, the fyringa, the laburnum, the Spanifh
broom, the provence rofe, the lauruft:nus, the bay, and the laurel.
In the fouthern parts, cotton, rice, and the fugar-cane indicate the fer.
tility of the foil, and the warmth of the climate 5 and the fields, and paf-
tures, as far as they have been examined, bear a ftriking refemblance in
their native. produéts to thofe which have been already mentioned, as en-
Rivening the fouthern provinces of Spain.
ZooLoay.] The Italian horfes are of little reputation, The cows &
- See Dolomieu fur les ifles Ponces, Paris, 1758, 8va, R
* the
the J
rod!
looc
almof
and a
he fo
feth i
the b
fuppo
marm
nines ,
' Italy,
Nari
the cer
any py
toward
miles i
sent authors
of * Ponza
0 the S, of
me parts of
ms to have
ds of mount
> forefts of
Italy are at
count of the
ithe general
hich has been
efpecially its
ree of notice
the. romantic
ay contain a
> the flora of
ng range of
f the highelt
any of Swif-
id has in con-
ce heath, with
| the tamarifk,
them towards
wned with the
igs The ftony
vith the fhow ,
P eryngo, wit
a fcented
ie myrtle, the
ftem, and long
covered with
ofe, fage, and
» we find the
e almond, the
he laurel.
* the
tree, the ilex,
the lemon, the
1 are the lilac,
» the Spanifh
ndicate the fer-
fields, and pal-
refemblance in
ntioned, as en
The cows &
ITALIAN STATES. 305
the Lodezan, where the noted cheefe is now made, which was formerly
toduced near Parma, are defcribed by Mr. Young as generally of a
Poadored colour, long, lank, and ill made*; The buffalo is in Eurepe
almoft peculiar to Italy; an animal, ebengh tame, of ferocious afpedt,
and as Fitérent from the bull as the afs is from the horfe. In manners
he fomewhat refemblés the hog, being fond of wallowing in mud; his
feth is coarfe, and his hide, though light, is fo firm’as te, fupplied
| the buff coat, or armdur of the feventeenth century. Originally as is
fuppofed from Africa, he is little adapted {to any cold climate. ‘The
marmot and the ibex’are alfo reckoned among the animals of the Apen-
aines; and the crefted porcupine is efteemed peculiar to the fouth of
' Ttalys
CHAPTER II.
THE SOUTHERN PART OF ITALY.
Naples and Sicily, with the adjacent Iftes.
4 FP HIS divifion comprifes the kingdom of
NarLes AND SictLy.] T Naples and Sicily 3 being divided from
the central part chiefly by an arbitrary line; nor has nature indeed marked
any precife diftinGtion, except fome rivers were affumed as boundaries,
towards the Mediterranean and Adriatic. Sicily is about 170 Britith
niles in length, by 70 of medial breadth: while this part of Italy ex-
ceeds 300 miles in length, by 100 in breadth, Square miles, 29,824,
with fix millions of inhabitants. :
After the fall of the Roman empire this part of Italy underwent
vatious revolutions. 'The powerful princes off Benevento furvived the
conquelt of the north of Italy by Charlemagne; and with other poten-
tates in this quarter acknowledged the ba of the Greek empire,
from which Sicily had been wrefted A.D. 828 by the Saracens, who
polleffed it till A.D. 1058 +. A pilgrimage to St. Michael of mount
Gargano induced the Normans to attempt the conqueft, which was
radually accomplifhed, both Saracens and.Greeks being expelled. The
Norman leaders became dukes of Apulia, Calabria, and Sicily; and Roger
was named king of Sicily by the pope, A.D. 1130. The Norman line
continued till their kingdom was fubdued by Henry VI. emperor of Ger-
many. After internal contefts Charles of Anjou became king of Sicily
1266: after the maffacre of the French called the Sicilian vefpers, 1282,
Sicily was feized by a fleet fent by the kings of Arragon, but Naples
continued to acknowledge the line of Anjou, which expired in the in-
famous Jean 1382. René of Anjou was leing of Naples 1435, but the
French line failed in 1481, in Charles Count de Maine, who named
Lewis XI. king of France his heir, whence the pretenfion of Franee to
the kingdom of Naples. The Spanith line of Naples and Sicily continued
till 1714, when they paffed to the houfe of Auttria; but were transferred
to that of Bourbon 1 [36s in the perfon of Don Carlos duke of Parma
and Placentia, fon of Philip V. king of Spain, and of Elizabeth of
Parma; who fucceeding to the crown of Spain 1759, conferred: his
* France, ii. 192. :
+ Sardinia was fubdued about the fame time, and was regained hy the Pifans and
Genoefe in the year 1016,
x Italian
306 ITALIAN STATES.
Italian kiggdom on Don Ferdinand his third fon, who ‘married the fitter
of the emperor of Germany in 1768. The kingdom of Naples has been
fince affigned to prince Toleph, the brother of the French emperor, and
afterwards to Joachim Murat, his brother-in-law. ie
Though the religion be the Roman Catholic, the Inquifition has been
carefully excluded. Few men of diltinguifhed genius have recently ap.
peared in this portion of Italy, which is overrun with priefts and lawyers ;
but among the latter Giannone has diltinguifhed himfelf by his fpirited
hiltory of his country. There are no lefs than 20 archbifhopricks, and
125 epifcopal. fees ; but no univerfity of any reputation. The ecclefiattics
are computed at 200,000; and it is f{uppofed that about one half of the
lands is in their poffeffion. —The government is nearly defpotic. The laws
are contained in the Codex Carolinus publifhed in 1754. The political
importanee is inconfiderable.
The chief city is Naples, efteemed after Conftantinople the mot |
beautiful capital in the world: the inhabitants are computed at’ 380,000,
Palermo in Sicily is fuppofed to contain 130,000. Meffina was nearly de.
ftroyed by an earthquake, 1783 ; but Bart is faid to contain 30,000 fouls,
and Catanea 26,000. Befides excellent wines, oranges, olives, rice and
flax, this kingdom abounds in cattle; and fome parts are celebrated for
the produce of manna and faffron. The manufactures, particularly
thofe of filk and woollen, date from the reign of Ferdinand I. of Arragon ;
and thefe with the native products, conftitute the chief articles of trade,
The mines are few and inconfiderable, as may be expected in a volcanic
country ; the chief are near Fiume di Niii in Sicily, where there are mines
of antimony ; and {pecimens are found of gold, lead, filver and copper *,
Iron manufaétures have been recently inftituted near Naples, but the
mines and the agriculture are alike neglected ; .and Sicily, anciently fo
fertile in grain, is now of little account. The revenue ‘1s computed at
1,400,000l. fterling; and the army at 40,000. There are about four
fhips of the line, and four frigates. The mountains have been already
mentioned in the general defcription of Italy, confiiting chiefly of the
Apennines which branch out through Apulia to Otranto, and through
Calabria to Cape Spartivento. The rivers are inconfiderable, being
chiefly the Garigliane, which under the nalne of Liri may be traced from
near the lake of Celano to the gulph of Gaeta. The Volturno paffes by
Capua, while the Sangro from an adjoining fource runs to the Adriatic,
The others are rather rivulets 5 nor can thofe of Sicily afpire to a higher
appellation, the chief of the latter being the Himera, or Salfo, runnin
to the fouth. The natural curiofities of thefe regions are numerous a,
interefting, independent of the grand volcanic appearances. About fix
miles from Girgenti, and very remote from Etna, there is a fingular vol.
cano, which in 1777 darted forth a high column of potter's earth, of
which there are continual ebullitions from about fixty fmall apertures +,
Spallanzani has explained the noted wonders of Scylla and Charybdis;
the former being a lofty rock on the Calabrian fhore, with fome caverns
_at the bottom, which by the agitation of the waves emit founds refem.
bling the barking of dogs. ‘The only danger is when the current and
winds are in oppolition, fo that veffels are impelled towards the rock.
Charybdis is not a whirlpool, or involving vortex, but a {pot where the
waves are greatly agitated by pointed rocks, and the depth does not exceed
500 feet. The ifles of Lipari contain many natural curiofities, as the rocks
of volcanic glafs, and the fpacious cavern in Felicuda called the Grotte
* De Non. 402. + De Non, 240, '
t)
of th
near !
of Li
Gaeta
quitys
promc
flance:
hore i
tus, nc
The tl
two.
NE.
miles te
rety Na
breadth
mount |
To the
is the fr
Pantala
They ai
confum]
prove a
ference,
isabout
puted at
Dominio
HIS
gra
fates, as
Piombina
the provin
Cifalpine ¥
The pontif
tally of p
devated to
ried the filter
ples has been
emperor, and
ition hias been
> recently ap.
and lawyers ;
by his {pirited
hopricks, and
he ecclefiaftics
ne half of the |
tic. The laws
The political
yple the mot |
ed at’ 380,000,
was nearly de.
1 30,000 fouls,
lives, rice and
celebrated for
8, particularly
I. of Arragon ;
ticles of trade.
‘din a volcanic
there are mines
rand copper *,
laples, but the
ly, anciently fo
‘1s computed at
are about four
e been already
chiefly of the
jo, and through
derable, being
be traced from
turno paffes by
lo the Adriatic.
pire to a higher
Salfo, get
numerous an
s. About fix
a fingular vol-
ter’s earth, of
all apertures +.
d Charybdis ;
h fome caverns
founds refem-
he current and
arde the rock.
{pot where the
Joes not exceed
es, as the rocks
led the Grotto
of
ITALIAN STATES. 307
af the Sea Ox, which from an aperture of 40 feet high opens into a hall
near 200 feet long, 120 broad, and 65 high*. The doves or warm caves
of Lipari have fuffered by neglect. The fmall ifles of the gulph of
Gata alfo prefent fingular ‘atures. While Capri, the Caprea of anti-
quitys is calcareous, and feems merely an elongation of the adjoining
romontory ; the ifle of Ifchia, to the north, abounds with volcanic fub-
tances t. About 30 miles to the north of Ifchia, and 50 from the Italian
fore is Pendataria, famous for the exile of Julia the daughter of Auguf-
ys, now called Ventotiene, with the {mall ifle San Stephane to the eaft.
The three-other Ponzian ifles are about 20 miles to the N. W. of thefe
two. Ponza, the largeft; is in the middle ; a narrow ifle, extending from
N.E. to S. W. in length about four miles, Palmarola is about four
niles to the W. of Ponza, length from N. to S. about three miles, and
wry narrow. Zanone is about four miles to the N.E. of Ponza, in
breadth and length about one mile. In the Adriatic fea, not far from
mount Gargano, are the {mall ifles of Tremiti, the Diomedez of antiquitys
To the N. of Sicily and at # confiderable diftance from thofe of Lipari,
isthe {mall ifle of Uftica, and at a ftill greater diftance from the fouth
Pitalaria. The ifles of Malta and Gozo are of far more confequence.
They are eb and barren, not producing grain fufficient for half the
confumption of a thin population ; but may in the hands of the Englifh
provea valuable acquifition. Malta is about 50 Britifh miles in circum.
ference, and is f{uppofed to contain 60,000 inhabitants.. The ifle of Gozo
isabout half the extent, and is rather fertile, the population being com.
puted at 3000.
CHAPTER III.
THE CENTRAL PART OF ITALY.
Dominions of the Church. —Tu/cany.—Lucca.—St. Marino.—Piombino, and
“the [fle of Elba.
fore ortion comprehends the dominions of the church, and the
grand duchy, now kingdom of Tufcany; with a few diminutive
| fates, as the republics of Lucca and St. Marino, the principality of
Piombino, and the fmall portion of territory around Orbitello belonging
to the kingdom of Naples.
The territory formerly belonging to the pope reaches fromnear Pefaro to
leyond Terracina. The fecular power of the popes dates from the age of
Charlemagne, and the forged colle€tion of papal refcripts, publifhed in the
rinth century under the name of Ifidorug, led to fucceflive accumulations
of dominion. The fmall territory granted in the eight century, was in-
ctaled by the acquifition of Benevento in the eleventh ; after which there
was a paufe; and the popes themfelves were conftrained to refide at
Avignon, In 1513 Bologna wasacquired by Julius II, : the marquifate
of Ancona followed in 1532: Ferrara 1598 : Urbino 1626. By the
treaty of Campo Formio in 1797, confirmed by that of Luneville in 1801,
the provinces of Bologna, borrard, and Romagna, were ceded to the
Cifalpine Republic, a fate lately ere€ted by and dependent on France.
The pontiff is eleéted by the cardinals, a kind of chapter confilting nomi-
tally of priefts and deacons, but in effeé&t of opulent ecclefiaftics, who are
devated to this dignity by their fervices to the church, by family connec’
" Ferber, Italy, 178,
_ © Spallansani, til, 99. 5
ij 3 tion
308 ITALIAN STATES. °
tions, or by princely recommendation. The nature of the papal power
isa bar to induftry ; and the popes rarely attempt to reftore the country to
its former fertility, though Pius VI. made ineffeétual efforts to drain the _
Pontine marfhes. The eaftern provinces however are for the moft
a high ftate of cultivation. Almoft the only exports from the papal fetes
are a fuperior kind uf alum, prepared at Tolfa near Civita Vecchia 3 from
which place alfo puzzolana is exported, being yellowith brown athes
containing particles of iron and mangancfe, whence it forms a ftrong
cement.
Rome is fuppofed to contain 162,800 inhabitants: and Ancona 20,000, _
The revenue ging from the papal territory was computed at about
350,000l. fterling; but by exactions in foreign countries was raifed to about
800,000l. Yet there wasa ge debt, bearing eight per cent. intereft.
a fure proof of the want of induftry and profperity. The papal power
feems now be fupported only by the influence of Auftria. The chief
river, as already mentioned, is the Tiber; which running from N, to §,
pervades the centre of Italy. The rivers flowing into the Tiber are the
Chiano from the weft ; and the Nera from the eaft, which receives the
Velino from the fouth: not far to the north of Rome the Teverone joins
the Tiber, more noted for beautiful cafcades near Tivoli than for. the
length of its courfe. The Velino difplays a noble cafcade of abeut 309.
‘ feet near Terni. ‘
The grand duchy of Tufcany has long been celebrated for the arts;
and Florence is regarded as the Athens of modern Italy. This princi.
pality is about 120 Britifh miles in length by 90 in breadth; but on
72040 fquare miles contains a population of about 1,250,000. Florence
ong continued a difcordant republic, till the houfe of Medici, originally
opulent merchants, obtained the fupreme power in the beginning of the
fifteeth century. That family, becoming extin® 1737, was followed b
Francis duke of Lorrain, who afterwards fucceeded
tria in the imperial throne. Francis was followed by his fon Peter
Leopold, emperor in 1790 3 whofe fon Francis became grand duke, and
fucceeded: his father as emperor of Germany in 1792 ; his brother Fer.
diriand being appointed grand duke of Tufcany. This duchy has been
fince united to the French empire. The revenue is chanaed at about
half a million fterling, but the forces do not exceed 6 or 8000. Tuf.
cany is one of the moft beautiful and fertile regions of Italy, with a
temperate and healthy climate. It abounds in corn and cattle, and pro.
duces excellent wines and fruit. Florence contains about 80,000 inhabit.
ants, and Livorno (corrupted by our mariners to Leghorn) 45,000: the
latter a celebrated port, has fupplanted the maritime city e Pifa, now
reduced to a population of about 20,000. The manufactures of filk and
velvet were formerly celebrated, and {till maintain reputation, The
mountains in the Sicnnefe, or fouthern part of Tufcany, contain valuable
ores of antimony, copper which is wrought at Maffa, and other meials,
with flate aid yellow marble. The ferpentine of Impruneta, feven
miles S. from Florence, prefente beautiful varieties ufed in ornamental
architeGture *... The Florentine marble is remarkable for picturefyue
reprefentations of ruins, &c. caufed by the infiltration of iron between
the amine. The Arno receives many fmall ftreame; and the Ombrone
is a conliderable river which pervades the Siennefe.
The {mall republic of Lucca is fuppofed to contain 120,000 people,
en 288 {quare miles; of which Lucca holds about 40,000. It affumed
# Ferber, 250, &@
5 independence
artin |
the houfe of Auf. #
indepe
in 143
_ eonftit
rious
being
meador
chief €
been ce
mounta
the po}
Ge
7
eonfider
papal power
he country to |
8 to drain the
e moft part in
ie papal ftates
ecchia ; from
brown afhes,
orms a ftrong
ncona 20,000,
ated at about
raifed to about.
cent. intereft,
e papal power
ITALIAN STATES. 309
inependence in 1370, the prefent ariftocratic eonftitution was ratified
in 14303 but in the recent revalutions of Italy this ftate adopted a
enttitution fimilar to the French. The Luccanef@ are the moft induf-
‘ious people of Italy, and no {pot of ground is negleéted, the hills
ing covered with-vines, olives, chefnut, and mulberry trees, while the
neadows near the coaft nourifh numerous cattle. Oil and filk are the
dief exports’ of Lucca*, The diminutive republic of St. Marino has
en celebrated by awe bas writers. The inhabitants of the village and
nountains are computed at 5000. It is furrounded by the dominions of
te pope, and claims his protection. A hermit of the fifth century
ve name and exiftence to this village, which grew up unmelefted on the
lyground. In 1739, the miferable ambition of cardinal Alberoni,
ying difappointed in embroiling large ftates, was direCted againft this~
f moublie; which he fubjected to Rome, but the revenue being in-
as The chief onfiderable its ancient privileges were reftored. }
; from N. to S. The principality of Piombino, confifting of a {mall portion of the
- Tiber are the {ulian fhore, and the oppofite ifle of Elba, were in the thirteenth cen-
ch receives the twy fubje&t to the Pifans ; and after feveral revolutions paffed to the
Teverone joins fmily of Apiano, as a detached principality, in 1399. In 1501 it was
li than for. the
le of about 300,
ized by Caefar Borgia, but after the death of pope Alexander VI. res
tuned to the houfe of Apiano. In the fixteenth century the ifle ‘of
Elba was repeatedly ravaged by the Turks, The principality recently
pafled to the houfe of Buoncompagni, a Neapolitan family ; but has re«
ently been yielded to the French republic. Piombinc isa {mall negle&ted
town, the princes having generally refided at Rome. The ifle of Elba;
the ancient Ilva, is about nine miles in length, and three in breadth}
ed for the arts;
This princi.
readth ; but on
aco. Florence
ledici, originally adhas been remarkable from early antiquity for its metallic produtions,
eginning of the icularly beautiful ores of iron, often chryftallized, and mingled with
Ries pu igh mtive Pruffian blue. The chief iron mine is that of Rio, in the weftern
e houfe of Aut.
put of the ifle; but as there is no water it is bite near Piombino, This
nmarkable ifle is alfo faid to contain copper, lead, and eventin. Af-
\etos and amianthus are alfo among the productions of Elba. Ferber,
himfelf a Swede, fays that the iron ore of Elba is equal to that of Sweden.
This ifle produces excellent wine, fome oil, and flax ; but cannot boaft of
much fertility in grain +. ;
his fon Peter
brand duke, and
is brother Fer-
duchy has been
mputed at about
or 8000. Tul.
pf Italy, with a
cattle, and pro-
80,000 inhabit.
' @Another {mall commercial republic, though fituated on the eaftern hore of the
Adriatic, is often confidered as an Italian ftate. Ragufa has a population of about
$6,000, on 352 fquare miles. This State heing adjacent to the territory formerly belonging
) 45,000: the wthe Venetians in Dalmatia, imitated the Venetian ariftocracy, and was protected by the
; 43 f Tuks on condition of paylng tribute. The religion is the Catholic, and the fpeech tha
yo of Gk and Slavonic, but moft of the inhabitants fpeak Italian, It is an arehbithoprick, with fix faf-
ures
fagans, and its commerce is confiderable, as it fupplies the Turks with feveral kinds of
hechandize and ammunition. Ragufa is an ancient city, being the Raufinm of the Roe.
putation. The
contain valuable mans, and in the tenth century had become a metropais of Dalmatia, In the thir- -
nd other metals, teenth ap it was cgnquered by the Venetians, and aftcrwards fubject for a time to
ta, fever the crown of Hungary. The hiftory of Ragufa may be traced in that of Venice ;
mprune poll ad its manufadtures are of diftinguifhed beauty, Lapii Dalmat. 49, &c. Buich:
ed_ in ornamental ing, tii, 959. os
for piurefque
of iron between
d the Ombrone
t Bufching, xiii, 195. Ferber's Italy, 294,
120,000 people,
oo. It aflumed
independence CHAP
“ITALIAN STATES.-
CHAPTER IV.
@
THB NORTHERN PART OF ITALY.
Piedmont.— Milan.— Mantuq.—— Parma and Plancentia.— ModendmGons, *
HIS largeft divifion formerly comprized the extenfive. territories
. fubje& to Venice, and the king of Sardinia, with Milan and Man.
tua, appanages of the houfe of Auftria, the principalities of Parma and
Modena, and the long mountainous ftrip belonging ta the Genoefe,
But France has feized on the greateft part of Piedmont and Savoy with
the country of Nice, and the fmall prineipality of Monaco. This fer.
tile: region wag by the French conftituted a republic under the name
of Cifalpine. ; :
The moft extenfive province of this divifion is Piedmont, about ; 50
Englith milesin length by 100 of medial breadth. This principality was
part of the ancient kingdom of Lombardy, and formed a part of the Bras
dyal acquifitions of the counts, afterwards dukes of Savoy, and latter!
kings of Sardinia. While the revenue of Sardinia waa eftimated a
¥,085,000l., Piedmont contributed 953,7501., Savoy 87,5001., and Sar,
dinia only 43,7501. This selene pene enjoys a mild and pure air,
and diftinguithed fertility of foil, the plains producing wheat, maize, rice,
with fome olives and wine, and the pafturages abound with cattle, The
vicinity of the Po however is fubjeét to fogs in the winter, and the cold
blafts from the Alps occafionally cut off the vines. Around Turin and
through a great part of the province, artificial irrigation, or the watering
of meadows, is pratifed with great affiduity.and fuccefs. The furround,
ing Alps are rich in minerals *, The Alpine chain from St. Gothard to.
Mount Cenis, is of prodiguous height, particularly Mornt Rofa, a nor.
thern boundary of Piedmont, and fuppoted to be the ancient Mons Sylvius;
but from Mount Cenis it becomes gradually lower, till the Apperines
branch out between Roja and Livenza, inclofing this province on the §
fouth. Thus numerous ftreams defcend on all hands to fertilize the plains,
and the river Orco forms at Cerefoli a vertical cafcade, computed at 409
fathoms or 2,400 feet. The copper mines in the duchy of Aofta are
numerous: and in fome places this metal is accompanied with antimony,
arfenic, and zinc, Jn the fuperior regions near Macugnaga there are
mines of gold, found in marcafite and quartz’: in the vale of Sefia are the,
ld mines of St, Maria and Cavavecchia, alfo containing filver. Gold
8 likewife found in the mountains of Challand near the vale of Aofa;
and the torrent Evenfon rolls down pebbles of quartz, veined with that
recious metal. Not far to the eaft of Mont Blanc, a rich vein of cobal
as been recently difcovered ; and plumbago or black lea‘ has been ob.
ferved near the baths of Binay. But it would be infinite to detail
the mineralogic opulence of Piedmont, which fpreading to the fouth
of the higheft Alps, almoft rivals the fouthern fide of the Carpathian
in Hungary. ° :
The c ief city of Piedmont is Turin, uppens to contain more than
$0,000 inhabitants, with an univerfity founded in 1405 by Amadeo duke
of Savoy, this city having been fubje& to the family fince A.D. 1097,
Vercelli is faid to contain 20,000 3 and Alefandria 32,000; a little toth
i Memoire de M. Robilant fur laMineralogie de Pitmont, Journ. deo Misa,
« No. 50,
rele, as i
won the
tenant pr
divided b
fents a8 a
whole count
Proprietors
of inhabite
Dumber of
cious exhala
formerly an
fovereign,
t Frange
ITALIAN STATES, gir
atof the latter is‘Marengo, noted for a victory of Bonaparte over the
Autrians. ‘The king of Sardinia ufed to maintain an army of about
4000 The exports confift of filk, which was chiefly manufatured at
Lyons, fome' hemp, and large flocks of cattle *.
_ Next in pofition and now in confequence is the fertile duchy of Milav,
hid to contain, on 2,432 {quare miles, a population of 1,116,850. The
ciyof Milan was founded by the Gauls about 584 years before the
(iriftian era; and the inhabitants are computed at about 120,000.
After the fall of the kingdom of Lombardy, it became fubje& to the
emperors of the weft; but impatient of the yoke, it was feverely
yunifhed by the emperor Frederic I. 1162; who taking it after a fiege
ff even months deftroyed the gates, ramparts, and edifices, except a
fw churches, and fowed falt on the ruins. Recovering flowly amid
te contefls between the emperors and the pope, it however could got
iert the form of a republic, but became fubjeé&t to the archbifhop, and
the Torriani, Napoleon Torre oppofing Otto Vifconti, archbifhop
dengvnGense.
five. territories
lan and Man. |
of Parma and
the Genoefe,
rd Savoy with
icO. This fer.
nder the name
nt, about 159
principality was Milan, was defeated in 1277, and the prelate was proclaimed tem-
part of the gra. 9 orl lord of Milan. He was fucceeded by his nephew; and the fa-
voy, and latterly
ily of Vifconti long poffeffed this opulent principality. This ely
mired in 1494 3 and was followed by Sforza, and by the Frenc
kings) In 1535, Charles V. feized Milan as a fief of the empire, and
seit to his fon Philip; whofe fucceffors, kings of Spain, held the
ilanefe till 1706, when it became an appanage of Auftria; but a con-
fderable part had paffed to the houfe of Sardinia. The revenues of this
duchy are computed at about 300,c0col. At Pavia is an univerfity of
t repute, the profeffors having much diftinguifhed themfelves in
ntural hiftory. It is regarded as the firft in Italy. There are manu-
fdures of wool and {filk, but the latter is inferior to that of Pied-
mont: there are alfo numerous workmen in gold, filver, embroidery,
feel, and in cryftal, agate, aventurine, and other ftones, fo that the coun-
rag eftimated at,
gsool., and Sar.
uld and pure air,
eat, maize, rice,
ith cattle. The
er, and the cold
ound Turin and
» or the watering
The furround.
St. Gothard to:
ont Rofa, a nore
pnt, Mons Gylvius; ty {warms with artizans. Mr. Young + reprefents the foil as being
ll the Appenines thiefly trong loam or loamy fand; and the moft remarkable circumftance
» province on the fim in the climate is the mildnefs and warmth of the northern mountainous
ertilize the plains, tafts, and the cold felt in the plains. Orange and lemon trees’ flourifh
computed at 409 inthe open air on the weltern fide of the lake of Como, though bounded
hy of Aofta are by the high Alps, which to the north are covered with eternal fhow 3
Pf with antimony, hile in the plain of Lombardy, even to the Apennines, thefe trees re-
gnaga there are
e of Sefia are the.
ing filver. Gold
vale of Aofta;
veined with that
ich vein of cobalt
lead has been ob-
nfinite to detail
ing to the fouth
he Carpathian
quire fhelter. The Boromean ifles alfo in the Lago Maggiore, are
| covered with thefe delicate trees, In Parma fevere froft: x felt which
ue not unknown in Tufcany, and even at Rome. The land: in the Mila-
ule, as in Piedmont, are mottly inclofed; and the farmers were metayers
upon the old French plan, the landlord paying the taxes and repairs, the
tenant providing cattle, implements, and feed; and the produce being
divided between them. The irrigation of the Milanefe Mr. Young repre-
ats as a ftupendous effort of induftry ; and the cana}s for this purpofe
*The ifland of Sardinia ufed to he confidered asan appendage of Piedmont. Mr.
Young (France, ii. $y) informs us, feemingly from good authority, that this ifle has
ontain more than been thamefully neglected by the guvernment; for, exclutive of the mountains, the
whole country may be regarded as wafte, and only cultivated in a few fpots. The chief
by Amadeo duke proprietors are abfentees, and the peafantry eruthed by rapacious ftewarda' the number
fince A.D. 1097, i of inhabitants about 45@,000. The frequent wattes abound with wild ducks; but the
00}; a little toth
Journ, deo Misa,
number of cattle and fheep is deplorably fmall, and the moraffes produce moft pernis
tious exhalations, This ifland, being now however the fole remnant of the poffeftions
pea annexed to the Sardinian crown, will no doubt be benefited by the prefence of ita
ereign.
Frange, ii, 148,
xX 4 are
419 ITALIAN STATES.
are mentioned as early as the eleventh century; fome af them being more
than 30 miles long, and near 50 feet wide. The price of land is near lol:
the acre, and yields about three per cent. intereft. The cattle, dairies.
and cheefe are excellent ; byt the fheep few and bad, Though the Mila!
nefe border, towards the north, an the higher Alps, and might thence
be fuppofed to rival Piedmont, yet the mineralogy has heen little
explored. Yet there are fome mines of copper and Jead above the lake
of Como. “ Mt : i
The Venetian territory has been recently withdrawn from the houfe of
Auftria, and annexed to the new kingdom of Italy. A defcription of
the well-known city of Venice would be fuperfluous: nor is it ne.
ceflary to enlarge on the well-known antiquities of Verona, and the
univerfity. of Padua. Se cete s Be dad inate id
- The ancient and remarkable city of Venice was founded in the fifth
century by the Veneti of the oppofite fhore, vio ed from the ncurfiong
of the barbarians. At firft each ifle was governed by a tribune, till the
year 697, when the firft doge ,was eleéted. . In the ninth and tenth
centuries the government of doges became nearly hereditary, but in the
eleventh the eleétion again became open. Towards the clofe of the
twelfth century the democratic form was fucceeded by an eledtion,
and adminiftration feverely ariftocratic, and well known by its fingula-
rity and ftability. The Venetians having gradually extended their power
along the Adriatic, in the year 1204, became mafters of feveral Grecian’
provinces and iflands; and after their contefts with the Pifans and
Genoefe, became the firft commercial and maritime power in Rurope,
till the end of the fifteenth century, when the difcovery of the Cape
of Good Hope transferred the oriental traffic to the Portugueze, who
were fucceeded in maritime exertion by the Spaniards and Dutch; and,
laftly, by the Englith, whofe naval tranfcendancy exceeds all ancient or
modern example. ° The authority of Venice declined with jts commerce ;
and the republic may be faid to haye expired of mere old age.
The commerce of Venice had funk in es decline. T € remaining
trade of that city chiefly confifted in fcarlet clath, and in ftuffs in.
‘woven with gold and filver, fold to much advantage in the Levant ; and
the Venetian mirrors retain their ancient reputation ; but the city did not
exift fo much by immediate commerce, as by the valk wealth acquired
during a long period of profperity. ita
The Venetian territory prefents many confiderable hills, branching
from the Swifs and Tyrolefe Alps. A minute enumeration would be
fuperfluous ; but Mount Baldo, on the eaft of the lake Garda, muft not
be omitted, having become remarkable among botanifts by a variety of
curious plants. Mount Bolca, fifty miles N.W. of Venice, 1s noted for
foffil fith in argillaceous fchiftus. ' The Euganean hills pear Padua have
been fuppofed to be volcanic.
The Adige {prings from the Rhetian Alps, and being jaqined by the
Fifac on the E. pervades the S. of Tyrol and Trent, then flows by
Verona towards the Adriatic, which it joins only about ten miles to the
N. of the Po, ‘The Tagliamento, Piave, and Brenta, all fpring from the
Tyrolefe Alps.
The {mall duchy of Mantua was held by the houfe of Gonzaga, from
the fourteenth century ; but the lait of the family being put to the ban
of the empire, Mantua has been fubjeét to Auftria fince the year 1707,
and was ruled by the governor-general of the Milanefe. the capital
ftands ona like formed by the Mincio, and was formerly fuppofed to
contain 50,000 inhabitants, now reduced to about 12,000; the polition
family
pula
fideral
printi
ductio
fandy
made g
The fe
Ittle p
ment ©
The
merit ¢
their fix
of Gen
acutene
Genoa \
jhe Ro
empero:
* twe
ering {
Crimes,
mained
Venice
1381.
maritimi
more de
executiy
tary fubj
ed is (or
* Youn;
ker, iv. 12
t See ¢
ITALIAN SPATES: | 313
wd fortifications render it a place of great Brena, ‘The Venetian ter-
ritory to the welt of the Adige confifted chiefly of the Brefcian and Ber.
I anefe, the latter being mountainous ; but theBrefcian is fertile in wine,
mi being more
d is near roah.
cattle, dairies,
ugh the Mila: al, and poaize, with excellent paityrages, and fome. mines of copper
‘ hag and iron '
| aight HK i e duchy of Modena is a remnant of the power of the celebrated fa-
rily of Efte, who alfo poffeffed the adjacent country of Ferrara, feized by
the pope in 1598. It contains about 320,000 fouls, and the city of Mo-
Jena 30,000 ; the revenue was 140,0001. The foil refembles that of the,
duchy of Parma, The breed of fheep is neglected, It is remarkable
that in digging wells near Modena, at a certain depth, a particular ftratum.
found, which being paffed, the water gufhes up as from a fubterranean:
ke or river. s\bout ten miles to the fouth of the fr ital there is an
gerture in the earth called La Salza, whence, particularly in the {pring
adautumn, afcend fmoke, flame, afhes, and {tones, with a ftrong {me
offulphyr. Carrara in the S, of this duchy affords the celebrated marble.
tid in flatuary. : | |
The tefritories of Parma and Placentia have been conjoined for many
wes ‘They were contefted by the Lombards, and by the exarchs of
Ravenna ; and after many revolutions fubjected themfelves to the papal
fe, whence they-were transferred by Paul ITI. in favour of his fon Pietro
Jamefe, in 1545. This family being extin& in 1731, after fome con-
tts, the duchies of Parma and Placentia were affigned to the Bourlion:
fmily of Spain, and haye lately been occupied by the French. The po-
ution is computed at 300,000; reyenue 175,Q00l. Parma is a ¢gon-
fderable city with fome manufactures, and an academy of painting; the
bove the lake
m the houfe of
defcription of
- nor is it ne.
erona, and the
Jed in the fifth
m the‘ncurfiong
tribune, till the
uinth and tenth
tary, but in the
he clofe of the
by an election,
} by its fingula-
nded their power,
" feveral Grecian
the Pifans and
wer in Hurope,
ery of the Cape
Portugueze, who
ind Dutch; and,
eds all ancient or
th its commerce ;
pid age. ¥ '
’ The remaining
and in ftuffs ine
the Levant ; and
t the city did not
wealth acquired
dudions, Both Parma and Placentia have yniverfities. The foil is a rich
andy gr gravelly loam, with fine paflures; and the Parmefan cheefe now
yade at Lod} in the Milanefe has ‘been celebrated for many centuries *.
The farms are {mall and agriculture ill conducted, irrigation being here
litle pra€tifed, The fheep are bad and the wool like hair, The improve-
ment of the country was much pores by the Bourbon family.
The imperial fiefs, and {maller ftates in this part of Italy, would little
| merit defcription, efpecially in the prefent uncertainty with regard to
their final deftination. This account fhall therefore clofe with the republic
of Genoa, confifting of a long mountainous traé, formerly nated for the.
acutenefs and Saas bery of the Ligurians its inhabitants. The city of
hills, branching
vati ld b Genoa was deitroyed by Mago the Carthaginian general, and. rebuilt by
SS arth “eH the Romans. It aflarwards became tobier to the Lombards, and the
emperors of Germany ; but in 806 had feized Corfica, and in the eleventh
adtwelfth centuries was diftinguifhed in the crufades, the Genoefe ren-
dering themfelves mafters of the Black Sea with: ettablifhments in the
Crimea, and even in the fuburb of Pera at Conftantinople, where they re-
mained «ill the Turks took that city +. Genoa ftrongly contefted with
Venice the dominion of the fea; and the war was not terminated till
1381. [n 1471 the Genoefe were expelled from the Crimea; but their
maritime power continued refpe The form of government was
s by a variety of
A + an
nice, 1s noted for
near Padua have
jained by the
. ‘ren flows by
t ten miles to the
hl {pring from the
bf Gonzaga, from
hg put to the ban
e the year 1707,
efe. The capital
erly flippofed ta
boo 3 the polition
7 and
executive effect. Exhaufted by the Venetian war, Genoa offered volun-
mL eieehon to France and Milan: but in 1528 Andrew Doria deliver-
ed his country and introduced a more ftable and ariftocratic government,
Pgs France, ii, 148, There ase iron founderies near the Apennines. Keyf-
ev. 119,
t See Gibbon, xi, 390,
3 which
printings prefs eftablithed by Bodoni wag diftinguifhed for beautiful pro. .
able.
more democratic than that of Teck, fo that the latter fad a more firm |
814 ITALIAN STATES,
which continued till r798, when the French form:was chofen,’ and ing
new ftyle affumed of the Ligurian republic, confirmed by the aden
of February 1801. In 1730 Corfica revolted from Gen
not fince been reftored. In 1745 the Genoefe’ declared re
the king of Sardinia, but fuffered greatly in the conteft. The pa
power is here little venerated, the people being immerfed in bufinefs vd
receiving monied heretics with open arms. The population of the terri
tory is computed at 400,000; of the city at 80,000. The troops, in
cluding the country militia, may amount to 30,000; but the powerfi !
fleets have funk to a few gallies.. The air ig pure and falubrious, and
there are excellent fruits and vegetable; but the grain is not fafficiens
for the confumption. ‘The manufactures are chiefly of filk and velvet,
The Apennines, which inclofe this region, are in fome places covered
with forefts, but in others are barren rocks, while in a few they afford de
licious pafturage. They fupply excellent marble for the proud’ palaces o
Genoa; while Polzevera in the Bocchetta yields the beautiful ftone {
alled, being ferpentine of various colours veined with marble. In ry»
a magnificent road was made from the Bocchetta or mountains to th
north of Genoa, through the Polzevera, which for the {pace of threg
years employed from 5 to 800 men, 'by the patriotic munificence of ong
noble family, the Cambiafi *. vibe a
HAwts thus given a defcription, fufficiently ample, of Europe
the moft interefting portion of the globe, that of the x
maining three quarters fhall be more reftridtes, as the topics are be
nerally lefs alluring to the European reader, and in many inftance
the materials are imperfect. of fome parts of America, and th
vaft central regions of Africa, little is known; but Afia prefents a
extanfive theme, and teems with fcenes of important events in ancien
aad modern hiftory.
ASIA.
HIS great divifion of the earth extends in length fror
Exrent~] the Hellefpont to what is called the Eaift Can e; tha
is from about the 26° of longitude, eaft' from London into the othe
hemifphere to near 190 degrees of eaft longitude, or 170° weft fro
London ; being no lefs than 164°, or (taking the degree at a medial la
tude) more than 6,500 geographical miles. From the fouthern cape
Malacca to the cape of Cevero Voftochnoi, which braves the ice of th
Arétic ocean, the breadth extends from about 2° of northern latitude t
about 97°; or nearly 4,500 geographical miles. If, for the fake of
rude and merely comparative calculation, one fixth part be added for th
difference between the ftatute and geographical mile, the length of Afi
_ in Britith miles would be about 7,583, and the breadth 5,250.
Of the vaft extent of A fia the ancients entertained moft indiftin® ideas
and in fa&t the difcovery of this great divifion of the world may be fad
to haye commenced with the travels of ‘Marco Polo, the Venetian, in
the end of the thirteenth century: and it was not completed, with regart
® Stolberg, i, 235.
ea
b oe vave
fa¥,
chofen, and the!
the recent treatp’
Genoa, and has!
red war againft!
et. The papal
1 in bufinefs, and
tion of the terri;
The troops, in
but the powerf,
1 falubrious, ang
1 is not fufficien
filk and velvet
e places covered
w they afford de
proud’ palaces ¢
eautiful ftone {
arble. In rang
mountains to th
e {pace of threg
unificence of 9
ple, of Europe
that of the r
e topics are
| many inftance
nerica, and th
a prefents a
events in ancien
s in length fror
aft Cape; tha
into the othe
170° welt fro
at a medial la
outhern cape ¢
es the ice of th
hern latitude t
or the fake of
be added for th
@ length of Afi
9250.
indiftin& ideas
orld may be {aid
he Venetian, in
ed, with regard
oi ny tehacyw } “a © 4
NEw
tothe extern ¢
other A fiatic ¢
and La Perou
by a ftrait wh
difcoverer, is q
daries are the
particular! th
ftyled by fome
of the globe,
in the account
ORIGINAL P
allowed to be
Techuks or 'T'¢
are {uppofed to
colonies have
fea of Kamch;
in Hindoftan
tempt to colo
fettlement at
Afia prefents a
the following t;
cuffion on the fi
LINNZIAN T
Ordo.
|. = Affyria
Jl. Scythia
JIL = Sarmats
Seres.
IV. Indi,
V. Sinz,
Barbaric Nations.
VI. Samaied
VII. Yakuts
VIII. Koriacs,
IX. Kamcha
* The Park and 2
William Jones, Ind
Id. 187, 188, 906,
t Thefe have a Ta
guls or Mandthute,
$ From the oppofit
the Yakute (around Y
eps, ji, 919,
§ Thele refemble tt
ASIA. 315
rothe eaftern extremities, till the recent travels through Siberia and the
other Afiatic dominions of Ruffia, and the voyages of Bering, Cook,
and La Peroufe. Jt is now well known that Afia is limited, on the eatt,.
by a ftrait which divides it from America, and which, in honour of the
difcoverer, is called Bering’s Strait. The northern and fouthern boun-
daries are the Arétic and Indian oceans, in which laft many large iflands,,
particularly that of New Holland, now more claffically and properly
ftyled by thine Auftralafia, affords a val additional extent to this quarter
of the globe, ‘The weftern limits of Afia have already been difcufled
in the account of the eaftern limits of Europe. ;
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The population of Afia is by all authors
allowed to be wholly primitive and original; if we except that of the
Techuks or Tchuktchi, who, by the Ruffian travellers and Mr. Tooke,
are {uppofed to have paffed from the oppofite coaft of America, A few
colonies have re a from Ruffia to the northern parts, as far as the
fea of Kamchatka; and there are well known European fettlements
in Hindoftan and the ifles to the S.E.; but the firft ferious at-
tempt to colonize what is efteemed a part of Afia was the recent
fettlement at Port Jackfon. With thefe and other trifling exceptions
Afia prefents a prodigious original population, as may be judged from
the following table, which will be found more clear than ary prolix dif.
cuffion on the fubjeat,
LINNZAN TABLE OF THE NATIONS AND LANGUAGES IN ASIA.
Ordo. Genus, ° Species.
“ Affyrians. Chaldee.
I. Affyrians, } Arai Hebrew, &c,
Egyptians.
Perfians. ' Armenians *,
JI. Scythians, Scythians, intra et ex.
tra Imaum, &c,
: Medes. Georgians.
JII, Sarmats. Parthians, oe ns, Se iek
Seres. : Northern and Sout
IV. Indi, ag ern, &e. .
. Chinefe,
V, Sinz. ; Japanefe, T
Barbaric Nations from north to fouth, and according to the degrees of barbarifm
VI. Samaieds, Oftiacs, Yurals, &c.
VII. ‘Yakute Yukagire, - (Expelled Tatars, ac.
cording to Tooke °
and Leffeps.)
VIII, Koriace, TechuksorTchuktchi, | +
JX. Kamchadale. <Kurillians.
* The Parfi and Zend are cognate with the Gothic, Greek, Latin, to Sie
go Jones, Indiap Differt. vol, i, p.206, The Pehlavi is Affyrian or Chaldaio,
: 187, 188, 206,
t M rad a Tataric form and face: they are probably highly civilized Tatars, Mon-
qu or Ma’ ts,
$ From the oppofite coaft of America. Tooke's Rufia. Th. oe ere a tribe of
oa am Angee Yakuttk), and both are expelled Tatars, Tovke's View, ii, 80. Lef-
pt ti, 1
§ Thele refemble the Japanele.
Ordo.
XII,
vat extent.
Ordo.
X, Mandfhurs or
XI.
Tungufes.
Monguls.
Tatars or
Huns*,
Turks,
Khafars,
Uzes.
Siberians,
' nie Species.
(Ruling people ix
Chine
a.)
Soongars.
Torguts.
Burats, &¢,
Nogays.
Bafhkirs.
Kirgufes or Kaizay,
Teleuts,
Befides thefe numerous original nations, the Malays and A fiatic iflang,
ers conftitute another lar
{peech, in the fouth of t
ProGREssivz grocnagay. |
quarter of the globe might
Ordo.
J. Celts.
JI. Fins (chief god
Yummala.)
HI, Scythiang or Goths
; (
in).
JV. Sarmats or Slavons
(Perun).
f
* After the deftru@tion of Attila’s fwarms, and the effects of unfortunate inroads, th
Huns became fubje& to the Monguls, who, under Zingis or Genghiz Khan, Timu, &,
conftituted the fupreme nation in Afia,
The great thare of population which Europe hag received from Afia will appear ftom th
following little wable :
PRIMEVAL INHABITANTS.
Genus.
1 FF ith.
Welth.
Armorican,
Finlanders.
Efthonians.
Hungarians,
Species,
Erfe,*Manks,
Cornith.
Permiane or Biarmiang,
Livonians.
e and diftin&t clafs of mankind, with a peculiar
e extenfive continent of Afia.
The progreffive geography of this
afford an important and interefting fy},
jet of difcuffion, if treated at due length, as embracing the varioy
difcoveries which, at long intervals of time, fucceffively difclofed jt
The moft authentic information concerning the know,
ledge of the ancients is to be found in the geography of Ptolemy; by
shaders commentators differ in the elucidation of his text: however j
appears probable that not above one quarter of Afia was known to tly
ancients, and this knowledge was little increafed till Marco Polo, whoj
trayels Became well known in Europe in the beginning of the fourteen
century, eftablifhed a memerable epoch in geography, by paffing ty
China, and difclofing the extent of: that gouty the iflands of
Japan, and a faint intelligence af other regions, illuftrated and co
Votiuce and Chermiffe,
COLONIFS FROM ASIA.
E
i
Icelanders, Norwegians.
Swedes, Danes.
——
li ie
Poles.
Ruffians.
Koffacs.
Swifs, Frifie.
Voguls and Oftiace,
Flemith, Dutch.
Heruwii.
Ve ndi.
Lettes.
The inhabkants of France, Italy, and Spain arc alfo of Afiatic
eorrupted Roman, which, like
eording to Sir William Jones and other able antiquaries, The Heruli, Wends, and
Lrttes, ufed mixed and imperfect dialed of the Slavonic. Critical Review, vol, xvi.
p: 129,
the Greek, is a pol
ithed dialeé& of
Ins and fheak
e Gothic, a
firmed
frmed by recent
gis, in the begi
covery of the di
he was, being fit
fuled terror over
mountains which
tance to the S.
empire, The vict
part of China, tq
over Ruffia, wh
This widely diffu
tion and curiofit
tribes; and at the
43 in Africa at p
of diminutive _
opened the obfcu
kda horde of 3 55¢
{cendants reigned
conquet*. Two
commiffioned to in
the Monguls; the
ployed in the fervic
that, from their bre
telligence concerning
hus the difcove
tine of Ptolemy,
the publication of
and the authenticity
man, indeed, of gre
and in confequence
Chriftoval Colon, or
kd by the relation o
the eaft, its fhores m
em extremity of Eu
difcovered the iflands
arrived at the Zipang
was abfurdly beftows
After the difcove
maritime parts and if
recent voyages of the
the unfortunate La F
concerning the interic
Peter the Great, afte:
mto that region an
acount of Siberia.
by the well known g
Afia is far from bein
tegions near the onl
tomention central A
fouthern regions ; nox
with tolerable accura
and memoir., It is a
dicoveries to the fout
ASEA. : 817
fmed by recent accounts, The wide conquefts of the famous Zin-
i, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, firft opened the dif-
ae of the diftant parts ot Afia, the Monguls, whofe fovereign.
he was, being fituated to the eaft of the: Huns, who had before dif-
fyled terror over Europe, The firft feat of the Monguls was.in the
mountains which gave fource to the river Onon; and at a fhort dif-
tance to the S.W. was Kara-kum, the firft capital of the Mongul
enpire, ‘The victories of Zingis extena.d from Cathay, or the northern
cky: part of China, to the river Indus; and his fucceffors extended them
Gr over Ruffia, while their inroads reached Hungary and Germany.
This widely diffufed power of the’ Monguls naturally excited an atten-
anid. tin and curiofity, never ftimulated by a number of petty barbaric
Uliar Vila vibes ; and at the fame time facilitated the progrels of the traveller, who,
43 in Africa at prefent, had been formerly impeded by the enmities
this of diminutive potentates. By force of arms the Monguls alfo firit
fub. opened the obfcure receffes of Siberia. Sheibani Khan, A.D. 12425.
rou led a horde of %5,000 families into thefe northern regions, and his de-
d ity feendants reigned at Tobolfkoy above three centuries, till the Ruffian
NOW. conqueft *, Two European travellers, Carpini and Rubruquis, were
; but commiffioned to infpeét the power and refources of the new empire of
ver it the Monguls; the latter found at Kara-kum a Parifian goldfmith, em-
O thy joyed in the fervice of the khan; and by Carpini’s relation it appears,
whole that, from their brethren in Siberia, the Monguls had received fome in-
eenth teligence concerning the Samoieds.
ng to Thus the difcovery of Afia, which had been nearly dormant fince the
ids of time of Ptolemy, began to revive in the thirteenth century. Yet after
1 con the publication of Marco Polo’s travels little was done for two centuries ;
ad the authenticity of his accounts even began to be queftioned. . One
ls, the man, indeed, of great mental powers, was impreffed with their veracity,
» and in confequence accomplifhed a memorable enterprize. This was
in| Chriftoval Colon, or, as we call him, Chriftopher Columbus, who was
kd by the relation of Polo to conceive that, as Afia extended fo far to
the eaft, its fhores might be reached by a fhort navigation from the weit-
emextremity of Europe. In this erroneous idea, when that great man-
difcovered the iflands now called the Weft Indies, he thought that he had
arrived at the Zipango of Polo, or Japan: and thus the name of India
was abfurdly beftowed on thofe new regions.
After the difcovery of America and the Cape of Good-Hope, the
maritime parts and iflands of Afia were fucceffively difclofed. Yet the
rent voyages of the Ruffian navigators, of our immortal Cook, and of
the unfortunate La Peronfe, evince that much remained to be done ; and
concerning the interior of Siberia fcarcely any folid information arofe, till
Peter the Great, after the battle of Pultowa, fent many Swedifh prifoners
into that region and Strahlenberg, one of the officers, publifhed an
account of Siberia. ‘This knowledge was greatly improved and increafed
by the well known genius of Pallas, and others, Yet our knowledge of
Afia is far from being perfect, efpecially in refpeé& to Daouria, and other
nes between the Ruffian and Chinefe empires ; not
aie more
difcoveries to the fouth of Afia, in which the interior aud fouthera coalt
* Gibbon, xi. 424,
of °
3x8 ASIA.
reach the botto
asthe Jemba, t
Kuma, Terek,
fouth are of {ual
ty receive the 'T'd
the Cafpian, at ]
ined the fea o
porpoifes and fea
kat turgeon, w
ind other articles
of Baku: that of
corimodious, tho
About 100 mil
ghich is about 20¢
ng the river ancie
ind the river Giho
ble courfe, flowing
fa of Aral, being
plored ; but it is fz
lakes in the vicinity
Another remark:
huflia, extending
orth latitude, bein
yeadth not above 3
fea tinge, me
ef New’ Holland remain to be explored; with other defects of {rally
confequence. But while many‘improvements are wanted in the tou
graphy of feveral European countries, it is no wonder there thou,
great deficiencies in that of the other quarters of the globe.
~ The importance of the fubje& will excufe thefe remarks on th
progreffive geography of Afia, than which no part of the fcience cay
be more jultly interefting, from the vaft extent of that portion of th,
globe; from the great variety of nations, civilifed and barbarous, }
whom it is peopled; and from its intimate conneGtion with the deftinia
of Europe, which it has frequently overawed, ‘while the favage tribes of
Metis on America can never become formidable to European arts »
appinefs.
Revictons.] The teligions of Afia are various, and will be illuftrated
in the accounts of the feveral countries. The climate alfo admits of every
variety, from the equator to the Arétie fea.
Sras.] Though Afia cannot vie with Europe in the .advantages of
inland feas, yet, in addition to a hare of the Mediterranean, it polly
the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, and gulph ‘of Perfia; the bays of Beng
and Nankin; and other gulphe, which diverfify the coafts much mop
tharthofe of Africa or America, and have doubtlefs contributed greatly
to the early civilifation of this celebrated divifion of the earth.
The Red Sea, or the Arabian gulph of antiquity, conftitutes the gran
natural divifion between Afia and Africa; but its advantages have chief
been felt by the latter, which is entirely deftitute of other inland feas,
Egypt and Abyffinia, two of the moft civilized countries in that divifoa,
having derived great benefits from this celebrated gulph, which from the
ftraits of Babelmandel to Suez extends about 21°, or 1470 Britith mila,
terminating not in two equal branches, as delineated in old maps, but ip
an extenfive weftern branch, while the eaftern afcends little beyond th
parallel of Mount Sinai.
The Perfian gulph is another noted inland fea, about half the length
of the former, bein the grand receptacle of thofe celebrated rivers th
Euphrates and the Tigris
The other gulphs de not afford fuch ftrong features of what are pn. k ;
perly termed inland feas; if the Euxine be excepted, which has already pr caiareatione se
been briefly defcribed in the age furvey of Europe. But the nit es America,
extent of Afia contains feas totally detached, and of a different defcriptin famm'*4"ds by Cook,
from any that occur in Europe, or other quarters of the globe. Suchis idahi Dane, was ¢
the Cafpian fea, extending about 10°, or 706 miles in length, and from de i trait, prot
100 to 200 in breadth. Btrabo and Pliny ee es this fea tobes A Fa to the e:
gulph, extending from’ the northern ocean; while Herodotus, many cen Mi adventurer to tl
turies before, had expreffed more juft ideas. Yet the Cafpian feemsa
one period to have fpread farther to the north, ‘where the deferts are fil
fandy and faline, and prefent the fame fhells that are found in the Cafpian:
but the chain of mountains which branches from the welt of the Ura
to the north of Orenburg, and reaches to the Volga, mutt, in all age,
have reftrited the northern bounds. of the Cafpian. To the eaft, thi
remarkable fea, in the opinion of moft geographers, extended, at no very
remote period, to the lake of Aral; the deferts on that fide pena the
fame features as thofe to the north, though there be now an elevated lerd
between the fea of Aral and the Cafpian, occafioned perhaps by the
quantity of fand rolled down by the Gihon, the Sirr, and other rivers
which now flow into the fea of Aral. ‘The northern fhores are low and
{wampy, often overgrown with reeds 5 but in many other parts the coals
are precipitous, with deep water that a line of 450 fathom will not
ficein May. T
id unaccountable
obably {prings the
here are many feals
ng called omuli. §
hueous {prings, 'T
m the fouths wh
prodigious ftream
Of the other A fiat
ulual accuracy +,
merican that called }
to 3ofathoms. To
pdly to the weltward
tion, till, at the d
lsare joined by folic
inthe A fiatic feas th
them have been defer
HIVERS.] The chief
» nore briefly called
» reams which |
globe, The Volga |
* Tooke's View, i. 2
reach
cription
Such is
ind from
tober
any cele
ems at
are
afpian:
p Urals
Ih a
at
no very
| the
ed level
by the
rivers,
ow and
coals
ill not
reach
ASIA. 919
rach the bottom. This fea is the poespenole of many important rivers,
asthe Jemba, the Ural or Jaik, and the Volga from the north; the
Kuma, ‘Perek, Kur, and Kizil Ozen from the welt ; thofe from the
fouth are of {mall moment ; ‘but from the eaft the Cafpian is fuppofed ftill
i receive the T’edjen ; and the Gihon, or Oxus of antiquity, flowed into
the Cafpian, at leaft by one or two branches, till it bent northward, and
ined the fea of Aral. Befides herrings, falmon, and other fith, with
rorpoiles and feals, this fea produces fterlet, and Nt numbers of excele
jent fturgeon, which laft in particular afcend the Volga, and ‘upply kaviar
nd other articles of exportation... ‘The beft haven in the Cafpian is that
if Baku: that of Derbent is rocky; and that ef Enfili, or Sinfili, not
wnimodious, though one of the chief ports of trade.
About 100 miles to the eaft of the Cafpian is the fea or lake of Aral,
stich is about 200 miles in length, and about 70 miles in breadth, receiv.
ing the river anciently called Taxartes, more recently the Sirr or Sihon,
wd the river Gihon, the Oxus of antiquity ; both ftreams of confidera-
ble courfe, flowing from the mountains of Belur Tag, or Imaus. The
laof Aral, being furrounded with fandy deferts, has been little ex-
bored ; but it is falt, like the Cafpian, and there are many {mall faline
Lkes in the vicinity.
Another remarkable detached fea is that of Baikal in Siberia, or A fiatie
Rufia, extending from about the fifty-firft to the fifty-fifth degree of
orth latitude, being about 350 Britith miles in length, but its greateft
yeadth not above 35. ‘The water is frefh and tranfparent, yet of a green
fea tinge, commonly frozen in the latter end of December, and clear
fice in May. The Baikal is, at particular periods, fubjeé to violent
,d unaccountable ftorms, whence, as terror is the parent of fuperftition,
abably {prings the Ruffian name of Svetoie More, or the Holy Sea *.
here are many feals, and abundance of fith, particularly a kind of her-
ig called omuli. Several iflands appear, and that of Olchon has ful-
hueous {prings. ‘The chief river flowing into the Baikal is the Selinga,
om the Paths while from the north it emits the Angara, which joins
prodigious ftream of the Yenifei.
Of the other Afiatic feas a minute account would be fuperfluous; but
fw obfervations may be offered on the remarkable ftrait which divides
fafrom America. ‘This ftrait, which was difcovered by Bering, and
erwards by Cook, is about 13 leagues, or near 40 miles in breadth.
ing, a Dane, was employed by Peter the Great in 1728, and aétuall
fed this ftrait, probably in the ufual fogs of the climate, without dif-
vering land to the eaft; but our great navigator gave the name,of the
pith adventurer to thefe ftraits, when he afterwards explored them with
ulual accuracy +. On the Afiatic fhore is the Eaft Cape, and on the
merican that called Prince of Wales. The depth of the ftrait is from
tozofathoms. ‘To the north of thefe ftraits the Afiatic fhore tends
idly to the weftward; while the American proceeds nearly in a northern
Con, till, at the diftance of about four or five degrees, the contis
tsare joined by folid and impenetrable bonds of ice. ,
nthe Afiatic feas there are numerous fhoals, or fand banks, but few
them have been defcribéd as conducive to human induttry.
Rivers.) The chief rivers of Afia are the Kian Ku and Hoan Ho,
more briefly called Kian and Hoan,) the Lena, the Yenifei, and
Ob, ftreams which rival in the length of their courfe any others on
globe, The Volga has been named among the rivers of Europe, to
* Tooke's View, i. 141, + Peanant, Arc. Zool, cluxxix,
which
320 ASIA.
which the principal part of its courfe belongs. Next ih confequenc
are the Amur, the Sampdo or Burrampooter; and the Ganges ; con.
ared with all which, the Euphrates and Indus hide their diminihes
; heads, A more particular account of thefe rivers will be given nde
the refpeétive regions, For .
Movunrains.] The Afiatic mountains.ate faid fot to equal the Eun,
pean in height, ‘The Uralian chain, forming a boundary of Europe, };,
been already deferibed. The Altaian-chain may be clafled among the mot
extenfive on the globe, reaching from about the feventieth to the hundre
and fortieth degree of longitude eatt from Londons or about $000 miles
thus rivalling in length the Andes of S. America. But as chains of mou,
tains rarely receive uniform appéllations, except from nations highly civ
lifed, the Altaian chain, beyond the fources of the Yenifei, is called th
mountains of Sayanfk; and from the fouth of the fea of Baikal the
mountains of ‘Yablonnoy, branches of which extend-even to the count
of the Techuks, or extreme boundaries of Afia. To the fouth of the
Altaian ridge extends the elevated defert of Cobi, or Shamo, running ip
a parallel dire€tion from eaft to weft ; and the high region of Tibet m
be included in this central prominence of Afia. Other confiderable ran
ef mountains are Bogdo, Changai, Belur, thofe of Tibet, the eaten
and weltern Gauts of Hindooftan 3 and the Caucafian chain between th
Euxine and Cafpian; all which will be afterwards more Particulitly
defcribed.
Governments. ] The Afiatic governments are almoft univerfally d,
fpotic, and the very idea of a commonwealth feems to be unknown, Tk
mildeft fyftems are perhaps thofe found in Arabia.
ARRANGEMENT. | In arranging the extenfive tates of Afia, according
to their population and relative confequence, the firit and chief rak
beyond all comparifon, mutt be affigned to the Chinefe empire. Butt
prodigious domination being eftranged from Europe, and having inn
ae exerted the fmallelt influence on its deftinies, it feems preferable, i
this inftance, firft to confider two powerful tates, intimately blended wih
European policy. The Turkith empire in Adia conftitutes a natural
eafy tranfition from the defcription of Europe ; and the Ruffian empir,
though in population far inferior, yet in military and political force tra
fcends that of China. ee
From the Ruffian empire in Afia the tranfition is eafy to that of Chin
a bordering ftate ; after which fhall be defcribed Japan, and a new gr
power, the Birman empire. Hindooftan and Perfia being now dividedut
feveral diflinct fovereignties, and Arabia containing many independe
ftates, the {cale of political importance becomes tranfitive and inditing
and may juftly yield in fuch cafes to mere geographical arrangemer
Hence the fmaller ftates of India beyond the Ganges, or between H
dooftan and China, will follow the Birman empire, to which, or to Chit
they may perhaps foon be fubjeéted. A wettern a leads to Hi
dooftan, Perfia, and Arabia ;‘anda fhort account 0 the various interel
and important iflands in the Indian and in the Pacific oceans, will clofet
gtand department of the work.
Eetene ard Bound
Geogra
rg
Extn. J iT “
about 1,050 Britith
than natural, thoug
Elwend. In the n
Ruffian by the river
extend ‘0 the junéi
for a coiliderable f
Arabs. From the rij
may t. about 1,100
Divisions. ] .Th:
anempires could it :
ten provinces. Nat
ithe fouth, and Rour
Guria, or Guriel, V
Circaffians. Armeniz
Kurdiftan and Irak
capital, Bagdad. T
Euphrates, now part
the claffcal name of
countries along the |
thefe provinces are of
belonged to Perfia til
by the Perfians in
mination.
Thefe provinces ar
tered by pathas,
ORIGINAL POPULA
confitted chiefly of
the fouth, At prefent
may be placed the mo:
Armenian, with varic
indicate the diverfity Oo!
PRoGREssiVE GEOG!
m the remoteit antiq
Prevented the precifion
trations to the geograp
Historica BeocH
alread been mentioned
naand Georgia were {
the whole of Afia Min
extended from th Eup!
tothe confines of § ria
tereitory from the Mam
(321)
TURKEY IN ASIA,
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Retent and Boundaries. — Divifions. — Original Population. — Progrefive
Geography. — Hiftorical Epochs and Antiquities.
‘xia | Bey region extends from the fhores of the Egean fea,
Extent: ] or Archipelago, to the. confines of -Perfia; a {pace of
shout 1,050 Britifh miles. ‘The boundaries towards Perfia are rather ideal
thin natural, though fomewhat marked by the mountains of Ararat and
Elwends In the notth the Turkihh territories are now divided from the
Ruffian by the river Cuban, and the chain of Caucafus ; inthe fouth they
extend :o the junétion of the Tigris and the Euphrates, which laft river,
for a couliderable {pace, divides the Turkith poffeffions from thofe of the
‘Arabs. From the river Cuban to the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates,
may L. about 1,100 Britith miles.
Divisions. ] . This extenfive territory, which in itfelf would conftitute
anempirey could it refume its priftine population, is divided into nine or
ten provinces. Natolia, the moft weiterly, is followed b Karaman in
x the fouth, and Roum in the north-eait. Yo the north of Armenia are
Guria, or Guriel, Mingrelia, and the Abkhas of Caucafus, the ancient
Circaffians. Armenia is alfo ftyled Turcomania ; to the fouth of which are
Kurdiftan sand Irak Arabi, a part of ancient Perfia around the celebrated
capital, Bagdad. The ancient Mefopotamia, between the Tigris and the
Euphrates, now partly correfponds with the province of Algezira: and
the clafical name of Syria or Soria is ftill allotted to the celebrate
countries along the eaftern extremities of the Mediterranean. Some o
thefe provinces are of comparatively recent acquifition ; Bagdad havin
belonged to Perfia till 1638 ; while on the contrary Erivan, recon lg |
by the Perfians in 1635, has remainel free from the Turkifh doe
mination.
Thefe provinces are fubdivided into governments, arbitrarily adminif.
tered by pathas.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population of thefe regions
confifted chiefly of Scythic nations, mingled with a few Affyrians trom
the fouth, At prefent the ruling language is the Turkifh, next to which
may be placed the modern Greek ; but the Arabic, Syrian, Perfian, and
Armenian, with various diale€ts ufed by the tribes on the Black Sea,
indicate the diverfity of population.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. } The progreffive geography may be traced
from the remoteit antiquity to modern times ; but ‘Turkifh barbarifm has
prevented the precifion of recent knowledge from adding complete illuf+
trations to the geography of this part of Afia.
HistoricaL Bpocus.] ‘The chief epoctis of Turkifh hiftory have
already been mentioned, in defcribing their European pofleffions. Armee
tiaand Georgia were fubdued by the Turks in the eleventh century, and
the whole of Afia Minor rapidly followed, Their kingdom of Roum
extended from the Euphrates to Conttantinople, and from the Black Sea
tothe confines of Syria. Succeffive warlike princes acquired additional
territory from the Mamaluks of Egypt and the Perfians, Syria, fors
Y merly
322 TURKEY IN ASIA.
merly an appanage of Egypt, wag conquered by Selim II. in 15163 Tay.
ris and Dincbeks, whick Lal had foestaily belonied to Perfia, a aks fab,
dued by the fame monarch; and in 1589 Abbas, the great fovereign of
Perfia, was obliged to yield three provinces to the Ottomans ; and Bay.
dad, as already mentioned, with the furrounding province of Irak Arab
became fubjeéts to the Turks in 1658. The prefent limits feem to have
been fixed by the treaty between the Porte and Perfia, 1736, fince whic)
period the Turks have been chiefly occupied in their own defence again}
the Ruffians ; but their afcendancy over Perfia had been fuch, that in
1727 they had acquired the territory from Erivan to Tauris, or Tebriz
and thence to Hamadan, a boundary which feems indeed more precifely
marked by nature than the prefent.
‘Antiqutizs.] The antiquities of Afiatic Turkey, once the chofey
feat of the arts, are numerous and important, but have been fo repeatedly
defcribed as to have become trivial themes, even to the general reader,
The moft {plendid ruins are thofe of Palmyra, or Tadmor, in the defert,
about 150 milesto the S. E. of Aleppo, at the northern extremity of the |
fandy wattes of Arabia.
Balbec, the ancient -Heliopolis, is about 50 miles to the N. W.of
Damafcus, the moft remarkable ruin being that of a temple, fuppofed to
have been dedicated to the fun.
Recent inveftigation has difclofed another remarkable fcene of antigui
ties, in the fite and celebrated plain of Troy. The Simois is now demon.
- ftrated to be a confiderable ftream, which runs into the Hellefpont,
nearly oppofite to the new caftles conftruéted under the order of Tott,
The Scamander which formerly flowed into the weftern fide of the Simos,
having been diverted by the Romans into a different channel, this unob.
fervek circumftance not a little baffled antiquarian refearch. The tombs
of remote antiquity having been conftructed like the large barrows of ow
anceftors, in the lafling form of {mall hills, they withftood the affaults of
time, or avarige ; and our travellers indicate, with fome plaufibility, tha
of He&or, behind the fite of Troy ; thofe of Achilles and Patroclus on
the fhore ; and a few other of the Homeric heroes *.
CHAPTER II. |
POPULATION, &c.
May of the topics affigned to this chapter have been already treated
in the defcription of European Turkey. The Turkith empirein
Afia is eftimated at 470,400 {quare miles; and the population at ten
millions ; which, allowing eight for the European part, will render the
total 18,000,000. Geographers have, contrary to the united voice of
travellers, confidered Egypt as a Turkith province ; while in fa@ it wa
only occafionally tributary, and was fubject to the military ariftocracy of
the Boys. Some of the maritime Mahometan powers have Hcewite alfifted
the Porte with fhips in time of war; but cannot with any juttice be re
garded as fubjeét to the Ottoman fceptre. The population of thele
African ftates is therefore foreign to the prefent confideration.
® See Morritt’s Vindication of Homer, &c. 1798, 4tv; Dallaway's Conftantinople, and
Dalzell’s tranflation of Chevalier’s Memoir.
CHAP.
Manners and Cu
fities— Cities an
Manufa@ures an
MANNERS AND.CU:
empire, is that half
while the other half
This laxity of gave
and has proved a gri
of thefe regions, |
Turcomans and Kur.
maintained on the fr
this claffical territory
CITIES AND Tow}
already defcribed. ]
ot Aleppo, fuppofe
iscontructed with {
with the white minar
The!
of the fifteenth century
» The manufa&
fo increafes, by the é
hich laft always prefer
TURKEY IN ASIA.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.-— Language. — Literature. — Education — Univer-
ftiesi— Cities and Towns. —Edifices. — Roads.—Inlaid Navigation. —
Manufa@ures and Commerce.
N general the moft ftriking feature of
MANNERS AND.CUSTOMS. ] I sii bere and cuftoms, in hg Turkith
empire, is that half the people may be confidered as fomewhat civilized,
while the other half are paftoral wanderers, ranging over extenfive waftes.
This laxity of government renders travelling in Afia Minor very unfafe,
and has proved a great impediment to any exact geographical knowledge
of thefe regions. Under a prudent government the wandering hordes of
Turcomans and Kurds would be expelled; and regular troops and garrifons
maintained on the frontiers ; when induitry and the arts might again vifit
this claffical territory.
Citigs AND TOWNS.] The capital of the Turkifh empire has been
already defcribed. Next in dignity and importance is the city of Haleb,
or Aleppo, fuppofed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants, ‘This city
is conttructed with fome ‘elegance, and the tall cyprefs trees contrafted
with the white minarets of numerous mofques, give it a moft picturefque
appearance *, ‘The buildings and population feem to have been on the
increafe, but the adjacent villages are deferted. The chief languages are
the Syrian and Arabic. The manufactures of filk and cotton are ina
fourithing condition, and large caravans frequently arrive from Bagdad
ad Baffora, charged with the produéts of Perfia and India; confuls
fom various European powers refide here, to attend the interefts of the
refpective nations.
Damafcus is fuppofed to contain about 100,000 fouls. It was formerly
celebrated for the manufaQture of fabres, which feem to have been con-
frudted by a method now loft, of alternate thin layers of iron and fteel,
fo as to bend even to the hilt without breaking, while the edge would
divide the firmeft mail. Wher Timur fubdued Syria, about the beginning
bf the fifteenth century, he ordered all the artifts in fteel to migrate into
Perfiae The manufaétures now confift of filk and cotton, and excellent
jap. From the Mediterranean are imported metals and broad cloths:
dthe caravans of Bagdad bring Perfian and Indian articles. This city
fo increafes, by the LS depopulation of the. villages and country,
hich lat always prefents the chief fymptoms of national profperity, or
cline. The Pathalik of Damafcus is efteemed the firft in Afia; and the
slice of Pacha has, in the decline of the Turkifh empire, become in fome
yeafure hereditary, with abfolute power of life and death, and without
y appeal.
Rat may be regarded as the third city in Afiatic Turkey, contain-
ig about 120,000 fouls. The flourifhing feat of European commerce,
dchief mart of the Levant trade, is faid to have been founded by Alex.
der the Great, eminently diftinguifhed from all other conquerors by the
bundation, and not the deftruction of cities. In the wars between the
rks and the Greeks, Smyrna funk into great decline; and was taken
ith vatt laughter by Timur in 1402. The excellence of the haven ren-
* Ruffell’s Aleppo. Browne, 384, &c.
Y2 : ders
— Oe a =
at
a
324 TURKEY IN ASSIA.
ders Smyrna the centre of all the traffic of Afia Minor : but the frequent
vifits of the pettilence prety impede its profperity *.
Prufa is a beautiful city, in a romantic fituation at the northern bottom
of mount Olympus. By Tournefort’s computation of families the inh,
bitants may be about 60,coo. It is entivened by numerous fprings, which
defcend from the mountains, and by:the proximity of the hot baths,
Prufa was formerly the chofen refidence of the fultans, and contains many
of their tombs. Magnifi, or Magnefia, is alfo a city of fome repute ip
this quarter of the empire ; and Kireagatch has rifen to confiderable po-
‘ pulation from the cultivation of cotton, being about 40 miles to the
N. E. of Magnifi, on the route to Prufa.
Angora may contain 80,000 inhabitants ; and is a ftriking, and’agree.
able city in a lofty fituation. The trade is chiefly in yarn, of whichou
fhalloons are made ; and in their own manufacture of Angora ftuffs, made
chiefly of the fine hair of a particular breed of goats, which, like thatof
the cats, occurs in no other country.
Tokat is alfo a flourifhing place. The inhabitants are computed z
60,000. The fituation is fingular, amidft rugged and perpendiculy
rocks of marble, and the ftreets are paved, which is a rare citcumfance
in the Levant. Silk and leather are manufaétures of Tokat; but the
chief is that of copper utenfils, which are fent to Conftantinople, and even
to Egypt. The copper is from the mines of Gumifcana, at the diftance
of three days journey from Trebifond ; and from thofe of Caftan Bou,
yet richer, and fituated ten days journey from Tokat, on the weft towards
Angora t.
Bafa a Baffora, on the eftuary of the Euphrates and Tigris, tay
be here briefly mentioned as a city of 50,000 inhabitants, and gret
commercial confequence, being frequented by numerous veffels fron
Europe and Afia, and the feat of an Englifh conful. Here the various
produéts of Europe and India are exchanged for thofe of Perfia; and
epulent caravans proceed to the chief cities of Adfiatic Turkey, toa
which it is the moft central part of oriental trade.
The great and romantic Bagdad the feat of the califs, and the {cen
of many eaftern fitions, has now dwindled into a town of about 40,000
inhabitants. Not far to the fouth are fome ruins of the celebrated
Babylon, which have been ably illuftrated in a recent work of Major
Rennell f.
Many important cities ef antiquity have funk into villages, and ena
the village often into a mafs of rubbifh, under the deftru€tive domination
of the Turks, perhaps the only people whofe fole occupation has beento
deftroy. The maps are crowded with many names, now only known by
miferable hamlets ; and an enumeration which would feem fhort may yt
be complete. The ancient and celebrated city of Jerufalem is reduced to
a mean town, chiefly exifting by the piety of pilgrims. ‘Towards the
frontiers of Perfia. the ravages of frequent war have f{pread additioul
deftru@tion; yet Erzeron, the capital of Armenia, retains about 25,00
inhabitants.
Mawnuractures.] The chief manufactures of Afiatic Turkey hare
been already incidentally mentioned in the preceding account of the cities;
to which. may be added the excellent carpets fo frequent in England,
Thefe, with rhubarb and feveral other drugs, may be regarded as the
chief articles of commerce.
The Levant, or
Great Birtain; but
advantageous to Fr
Cimate and Seafons.
—Lakes.— Mount)
Minera! Waters, —
CLIMATE AND SEASO
isa peculiar foftnefs a
pean fide of the Arc
tempered by the au
ate faid to be covered
Face oF THE coy
may he regarded as mo
ful plains, which, “inte
pattured by the numer
aw may be expected,
chiefly a deep clay ; ar
duds of agriculture *,
fouthern provinces are
moft deplorable conditi
like thofe of Poland, a:
onions, and water, for
_Rivers.] The princ
rion, the Euphrates, v
miles to the N. E. of £
to Semifat, where it w
ehh ridge of mou
is joined by the Morad {
that of Euphrates; fo |
fpring from mount Arai
puted fource. At Sem:
afoutherly direétion; th
receiving the Tigris, fall
The comparative courf
1,400 Britith miles,
Next in importance is.
about 150 miles fouth f;
neatly a regular dire@tio:
about 60 miles to the n
bout 800 miles. The
for a confiderable diftanc
he third river in Afi
Irmak, the celebrated H.
from Erekli, but by other
mg courfe to the north,
e Chandler, 65. + Tournefort, ii, 424. 3 Geography of Herodotus,
. Browne, 418.
TURKEY IN ASIA. 325
The Levant, or Turkey trade was fovenecly ofggreat confequence to
Great Birtain; but fince the middle of the laft century has been more
advantageous to France.
CHAPTER IV. ~
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Cimate and Seafons.— Face of the Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers.
— Lakes. — Mountains. — Forefts.— Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy. —
Miaero! Waters. — Natural Curiofities.
' HE climate of Afia Minor has always
CLIMATE AXD SEASONS. ] T been confidered as excellent. There
isa peculiar foftnefs and ferenity in the air, not perceivable on the Euro-
pean fide of the Archipelago. The heat of the fummer is confiderably
tempered by the numerous chains of high mountains, fome of which
ate faid to be covered with perpetual {now.
FACE OF THE COUNTRY. ] The general appearance of A.fiatic Turkey
may be regarded as mountainous ; but intermingled with large and beauti-
ful plains, which, “inftead of being covered with rich crops of grain, are
attured by the numerous flocks and herds of the Turcomans, The foil,
as may be expected, is extremely various; but that of Afia Minor is
chiefly adeep glay ; and wheat, barley, and durra, form the chief pro-
duds of agriculture *. But excellent grapes and olives abound ; and the
fouthern provinces are fertile in dates. In Syria the agriculture is in the
mot deplorable condition. The peafants, though not fald with the foil,
like thofe of Poland, are, if poffible, yet more oppreffed ; barley bread,
onions, and water, forming their conftant fare ti
Rivers.) The principal river of Afiatic Turkey is, beyond all compa-
rifon, the Euphrates, which rifes from the mountains of Armenia, a few
miles to the N. E. of Erzeron t ; and chiefly purfues a S. W. dire&ion
to Semifat, where it would fall into the Mediterranean, if not prevented
bya high ridge of mountains. In this part of its courfe the Euphrates
is he, by the Morad from the eaft, a ttream almoft doubling in length
that of Euphrates; fo that the latter river might more juftly be faid to
{pring from mount Ararat, about 160 Britith miles to the eaft of the im-
puted fource. At Semifat, the ancient Samofata, this noble river aflumes
afoutherly direétion ; then runs an extenfive courfe to the S. E., and after
receiving the Tigris, falls by two or three mouths into the gulph ef Perfia,
The comparative courfe of the Euphrates may be eftimated at about
1,400 Britifh miles.
Next in importance is the Tigris, which rifes to the north of the Medan
about 150 miles fouth from the fources of the Euphrates, and purfues
neatly a regular direction S. E. till it joins the Euphrates below Korna,
about 60 miles to the north of Baffora; after a comparative courfe of
about 800 miles. The Euphrates and the Tigris are both navigable
for a confiderable diftance from the fea.
The third river in Afiatic Turkey is that called by the Turks Kizil
Irmak, the celebrated Halys of antiquity, rifing in mount Taurus not far
from Erekli, but by other accounts more to the eaft, and purfuing a windy
ing courfe to the north, nearly acrofs the whole of Afia Minor, till it
’
* Browne, 18. t Volney, ii. 419, $ Tournefort, ii. 198,
Y¥3 join
326 TURKEY IN ASIA.
join the Euxine fea @n the weft of the gulth of Sanfoun. The river
Sacaria, the ancient Sangarius, or Sangaris, rifes about 50 miles'to the
fouth of Angora, and running to the N. W. joins the Euxine, about "0
miles to the eaft of Conftantinople.
In the next rank may be placed the claffical river of Mzander, rifing
to the north of the ancient city of Apamia, and running, in a windin
itream, about 250 Britifh miles. It is called by the Turks Boyue Minder
or the Great Meander, to diftinguifh it from a {mall tributary ftream,
which refembles it in mazes. ‘The Minder, not far from its mouth, i
about 1c feet broad; witha fwift, muddy, and extremely deep cur.
rent, having received a confiderable acceffion of waters from the lake of
yus.
The Sarabat, or ancient Hermus, renowned for its golden fands, joins
the Archipelago about go Britifh miles to the north of the Minder, after
a courfe of fimilar length.
. The other rivers of Afia Minor are far more inconfiderable, though
many of them be celebrated in claffical hiftory and poetry.
The chief river of Syria is the Orontes, now called Oron or Of, riting
about 12 milesto the N. of Damafcus, and running nearly due north till
it fuddenly turn S.E. near Antioch, after which it foon joins the
Mediterranean.
Lakes. ] Afiatic Turkey alfo contains numerous lakes. That of Van
in the north of Kurdiftan, 1s the moft remarkable, being about 80 Britif
miles in length from N. E. to S. W., and about 40 in breadth : it is {aid
to abound with fith.
In Syria what is called the Dead Sea may be regarded as a lake of
about so miles in length, and 12 or 13 inbreadth. The lake of Rackam,
to the fouth of Hilla and the ancient Babylon, is about 30 miles in length,
and flows into the Euphrates.
Towards the centre of Afia Minor there is a remarkable faline lake,
about 70 miles in length, and a mile or two in breadth, being the Tata
or Palus Salfa of D’Anville’s Ancient Geography.
Numerous other fmall lakes appear in Natolia among which may be
siti mentioned that of Ulubad, anciently ftyled the lake of Apo.
onia, which according to Tournefort is about 25 miles in circumference,
and in fome places feven or eight miles wide, fprinkled with feveral ifls
and fome peninfulas, being a grand receptacle of the waters from mount’
Olympus. The largett ifle is about three miles in circuit, and is called
Abouillona, probably from the ancient name of the city which ftood onit.
About so miles to the N. E. was the lake called Afcanius by the ancients,
now that of Ifnick. :
Mountains. ] Many of the mountains of Afiatic Turkey deferve par.
ticular attention, from their ancient celebrity. The firft rank is due to
the Taurian chain of antiquity, which was confidered as extending from
the neighbourhood of the Archipelago to the fources of the Ganges, and
the extremities of Afia, fo far as difcovered by the ancients, Bu this
notion little accords with the defcriptions of modern travellers, or the
refearches of recent geography ; and we might perhaps with equal juftice
infer that the Carpathian mountains, the Alps, and the Pyrenees conti:
tute one chain. Science is equally impeded by joining what ought to be
divided, ac by dividing what ought to be joined. The Caucafian mou
tains have been well delineated by the Ruffian travellers, as forming a
range from the mouth of the river Cuban, in the N. W., to where the
river Kur enters the Cafpian, in the S. E, ‘The remaining intelligence
is dubious and defeétive ; but it would feem that a chain extends from Cav-
calus,
calus, S. Ww.
Taurus of a
namess At
into Perfia ;
be juttly con
of Perfias o
Hindoo Koh
would be mer
Taurus, now
extends for al
hhores of the
defcent, bet
heights abou
Towards t
with two fum
of the flanks i
perpendicular:
This mountai
nexion.
Beyond A
robable, bel
Niphates of a
In Syria the
running in th
fhore, and ge
Libanus is a
Thefe mounta
covered with
not appearing’
guiph.
The eaftern
height and cla!
Of thefe Olyn
is defcribed by
Many {mall ftr
is another rece
About 140
though not eq
Gargarus; fr
Hallefpont, ar
A garus, or the
giving fource t
of which run t
the Taurus det
the ifle of Cas
Forests. }
clothed with i
trees. The fo
forefts of grea
tants with fuel
Turkey.
Borany. }
tamia, fince the
acceflible to ]
however, have |
The river
les 'to the
about 79
ler, rifing
a windin
1e Minder,
ry ftream,
mouth, is
deep cur.
she lake of
ands, joins
der, after
le, though
Ofi, riting
é north till
joins the
rat of Van
8o Britih
3 it is fad
3 a lake of
-Rackama,
$ in length,
faline lake,
r the Tata
ch may be
of Apodl.
umference,
everal ifles
rom mount’
id is called
ood onit.
he ancients,
eferve par.
Ik is due to
ding from
angie and
ut this
rs, or the
jjual juftice
ees conti.
ught to be
fian moun
forming a
where the
ntelligence
from Cau-
cafus,
TURKEY IN ASIA. 327
cafus, S. W. to near the bay of Scanderoon. This ridge feems the Anti-
Taurus of antiquity : but various parts of it were known by different
names. At the other extremity of the Caucafus other chains branch out
into Perfia ; which they pervade from N. W. to S. E., but they may all
be juttly confidered as terminating in the deferts of the fouth-eaftern part
of Perfia; or as having fo imperfe& a conneétion with the mountains of
Hindoo Koh, which fupply the weftern, fources of the Indus, that it
would be mere theory to regard them asa continued chain. The chain of
Taurus, now called Kuron, perhaps from the old Greek name Ceraunus,
extends for about 600 miles E. and W. from the Euphrates to near the
fhores of the Archipelago. A recent traveller found the afcent and
defcent, between Aintab and Boftan, to occupy three days; and the
heights abound with cedars, favines, and junipers.
Towards the eaft of Armenia is Ararat. It is a detached mountain,
with two fummits ; the higheft being covered with eternal fnow. In one
of the flanks is an abyfs, or precipice, of prodigious depth, the fides being
erpendicular, and of a rough black appearance, as if tinged with fmoke.
This mountain belongs to Perfia, but is here mentioned on account of con-
nexion.
Beyond Ararat are branches of the Caucafian chain; to which, as is
robable, belong the mountains of Elwend, which feem to be the
Niphates of antiquity.
In Syria the moft celebrated mountain is that of Lebanon, or Libanus,
running in the foutherly and northerly direction of the Mediterranean
fhore, and generally at the diftance of about 30 or 40 miles. The Anti-
Libanus is a fhort detached chain, running nearly parallel on the. eaft.
Thefe mountains are of confiderable ela, the fummits being often
covered with fnow; and they feem to be calcareous, the granite
not appearing till the neighbourhood of mount Sinai and the Arabian
ulph.
The eaftern fide of the Archipelago prefents many mountains of great
height and claffical fame, chiefly in the ranges extending from N. to S.
Of thefe Olympus (now Kefhip Dag) is one of the mott celebrated, and’
is defcribed by Tournefort as a vaft range covered with perpetual {now.
Many {mall ftreams {pring from Olympus, and the large lake of Ullabad’
is another receptacle of its waters,
About 140 miles to the welt of Olympus rifes mount Ida, of great
though not equal height. The fummit of Ida was by the ancients called
Gargarus; from which extend weftern prominences reaching to the
Hallefpont, and amidft them ftood the celebrated city of Troy; Gar-
# garus, or the fummit of Ida, being about 3o miles from the fhore ; and’
giving fource to the Granicus, the Simois and other noted ftreams, moft
of which runto the north. To the fouth of the Minder, or Meander,
the Taurus detaches a chain, called Cadmus and Grius, bending towards
the ile of Cos and the Cyclades, a
Forests.] The numerous mountains in Afiatic Turkey are often
clothed with immenfe foreft of pines, oaks, beeches, elms, and other
trees. The fouthern fhores of the Black Sea alfo prefent many gloom
forefts of great extent. The abundance of timber fupplies the inhabi-
Fwd with fuel ; nor has pit-coal been explored in any part of Afiatic
urkey.
Borany.] The extenfive provinces of Natolia, Syria, and Mefopo-
tamia, fince their reduétion under the Turkifh yoke, have been but little
acceffible to European curiofity. The natural productions of Syria,
however, have been inveltigated, ae imperfedtly, by feveral meer
4 6
328 TURKEY IN ASIA. .
of eminence, while the mountains and rich vales of Natolia towards tl,
Breat Caucafian chain are almoft wholly unknown. Thefe Countrieg
aving been inhabited and civilized from the remoteft antiquity, poffe.
fing for the moft part a dry rocky foil, with fewer rivers than any trag
in hale of equal extent, contain none of thofe low fwampy levels tha
form fo charaatestflc a feature in almoft all the American countries,
that compofe the greater part of Holland, and occupy no {mall ropor,
tion of Hungary and the dominions north of the Baltic. Thor vege.
tables therefore that inhabit {wamps, lakes, and bogs, will be very {p,,
ringly found in the flora of Afiatic ‘Turkey; nor will the indigenous alping
plants be more numerous, not indeed on account of the hitate of high
mountains, but from their having heen hitherto almoft entirely unexamined,
Of the f{canty catalogue of plants that have been found wild in the |
Afiatic part of the Ottaman territory, the following are the moft wortliy
of notice. .
Among the trees may be diftinguifhed, the olive tree, aboundin
throughout the whole Archipelago and the fhores of the Levant; the weep.
ing willow, graceful with its flender pendent branches, which has adorned
the banks A the Euphrates from time immemorial : the wild olive, bea.
ing a {mall fweet efculent fruit 5, the white mulberry ; the florax tree,
from which exudes the fragrant gum-refin of the fame name, the pome.
granate ; almond tree, and peach tree ; the cherry, a native of Pontufin Nj.
tolta, whence it was brought to Rome by Lucullus; the lemon and Orange;
the myrtle, growing plentifully by the fide of running ftreams ; the plin.
tain tree ; the vine, ina perfectly wiki {tate climbing up the higheft trees,
and forming verdant grottos among its ample feftoons ; the mattich, chig
turpentine, and i pemeia nut tree ; the cyprefs, the cedar; a few large
trees of which {till remain on Mount Lebanon, the venerable relics of i;
facred forefts. Hibifcus Syriacus, diftinguifhed by the uncommon fplen.
dour of its bloffoms, and on this account much cultivated about Conttan,
tinople and other parts of the ‘T'urkifh empire, where it does not grow
‘{pontaneoufly ; the fig tree, and fycamore fig, abounding in Paleftine ang
other parts of Syria; the date trec, the riety cupped oak, from which
‘are procured the fineft Aleppo galls; the Oriental plane tree, highly
efteemed for its fhady tent-like canopy of foliage ; and menifpermum coc.
culus, the berries of which, commonly called cocculus indicus are much
38 by the natives for taking fifth, on account of their narcotic qua.
ities.
Of the lower trees and flowering fhrubs the principal are the lilac,
abounding on the banks of the Euphrates; the yellow and common ja.
mine, found plentifully in the thickets and woods of Syria ; the long hol.
low {tems of the latter of thefe are in great requeft among the inhabitants,
as ftems to their tobacco pipes ; the Spanifh and thorny broom occupying
many of the fandy traéts that are of fuch frequent occurrence in Syria,
and the oleander, a common ornament of every rivulet.
Several dying drugs and articles of the materia medica, are imported
from the Levant, among which may be particularized madder ; a variety of
this called a lizari, is largely cultivated around Smyrna, which yields a much
finer red dye than the Tepewa kind, and to this the fuperiority of the
Greek and ‘Turkih reds is in part to be afcribed ; jalap, fcammony, febel-
ten, croton tinctorium 3 ricinus communis, the feed of which yields by ex
preffion the caltor oil ; {quirting cucumber, coloquintida ; opium poppy,
and {pikenard,
A few efculent plants not commonly made ufe of elfewhere are the pros
@uce of Natolia and Syria, fuch as the mad-apple, Jew's mallow, and
arum
gram colaca
of its kindre
ZooLoGyY-
tract, and arc
cattom them
eeneral ufe.
ars, but it fe¢
bad. The m
In Afiatic
which is unkr
Yet he rarely
ferved many t
perhaps the le
the waites of
animals of Afi
ful cries in the
allowed to wan
The ibex, «
fngular goats
common anteld
deers and hares
about a third 1
MINERALOG
provinces remai
was famous for
fen to be indi
and copper ore,
prus. The mo
hard limeftone o
limetone.
MEDICAL WA
Prufa, at the be
paved with mar’
one for the men,
and is fo hot as
water from the 1
hot {prings in di
ISLAND
The chief iffat
ae Mytilene, Sc
Mytilene, the ;
ies, being about
The mountainous
and inlets of the {
ae hot baths if
Britol, and whic
wexquifite ; and
women,
Scio, the ancie
about 13 in media
TURKEY IN ASIA, 329
rds the gram colacafia, remarkable for its fweet farinaceous root, while thofe
UNtrieg of its kindred {pecies are intolerably acrid. |
poffef. Zoo.oGy.] ‘The beft horfes in Afiatic Turkey are of Arabian ex.
Ly trac tnt, and are fparingly fed with a little harley and minced {traw, to ace
Is that cuftom them tg abitinence and fatigue ; but mules and afles are in more
untries, eneral ufe. Concerning the breed of cattle little is mentioned by travel-
proper, oa but it feems inferior to thofe of Europe 3 and beef is {carce and
€ vege. bad. The mutton is fuperior; andthe kid is a favourite repaft.
Ty {pay “In Afiatic Turkey appears that king of ferocious animals the lion,
8 alpine yhich is unknown to any region of Europe, and even to Afiatic Ruffia,
of high Yet he rarely roams to the weft of the Euphrates; but Tournefort ob-
amined, ferved many tygers on Mount Ararat. He muft mean the{malltyger, or
in the | gerhaps the leopard 5 for the royal or large tyger feems to be reftrited to
worthy the waites of Elindoftar. The hyzna and the wild boar are known
, quimals of Afia Minor, together with troops of jackals, which raife dread-
ounding ful cries in the night, ‘The cities and villages {warm with dogs, who are
le weep. allowed to wander, asa conttant defence againtt ttrangers or enemics.
adorned The ibex, or rock goat, appears onthe fummits of Caucafus. The
rey bear. fngular goats and cats of ae have been already mentioned. The
ax tree, conmon antelope is alfo an inhabitant of Afia Minor, with numerous
€ pome. ders and hares. The partridges are generally of the red-legged kind,
ufin Na. about a third larger than the common European.
orange; MingrALoGy.| The mineralogy of thafe extenfive and mountainous
he plan. provinces remains in a deplorable ttate of imperfeCtion. Ancient Lydia
eft trees, was famous for the production of gold; but in modern times no mines
ich, chig fem to be indicated, except thofe of eopper which fupply Tokat ; lead,
ew large and copper ore, with rock cryftals, have been obferved in the ifland of Cy-
cs of ity prus. ‘The mountains of Judea, according to Hafelquift, are of a very
on fplen. hard limeftone of a yellowjfh white ; and towards the eaft of a loofe grey
onttan, limetone. et
ot grow MepicAL WATERS.] The moft nated medical waters are thofe of
ftine and Prufa, at the bottom of Mount Olympus. The bathe are {plendid and
m which paved with marble, with two refervoirs or rather ciflerns for bathing,
p highly one for the men, another for the women, ‘The water {mokes continually,
um coc.
re much
tic qua.
and is fo hot as to feald the hand; but inthe baths it is mingled with cold
water from the numerous ftreams of Olympus. There are many other
hot {prings in different quarters of Natolia,
he lilac,
on jaf.
bng hol.
bitants,
upying
Syria,
ISLANDS BELONGING TO ASIATIC TURKEY.
The chief iflands in the Archipelago, confidered as belonging to Alia,
ae Mytilene, Scio, Samos, Cog, and Rhodes,
Mytilene, the ancient Lefbos, is the moft northerly and largeft of thefe
iles, being about go Britith miles in length, by 24 at its greateit breadth.
The mountainous appearance of this ifle is agreeably diverfified with bays
and inlets of the fea, and plantations of olives, vines, and myrtle *. There
are hot baths ifluing from cliffs refembling thofe of St. Vincent near
Briftol, and which indicate the ifle to be chiefly calcareous. The climate
wexquifite ; and it was anciently noted for wines, and the beauty of the
women,
Scio, the ancient Chios, is about 36 Britith miles in length, but only
ibout 13 in medial breadth. ‘The Chian wine is celebrated by Horace,
ported
rety of
a much
of the
» febel-
by ex
oppys
€ pros
y and
® Dallaway’s Conflantinople, p. $19,
arum
and
$30 TURKEY IN ASIA.
and retains its ancient fame. ‘The town of Scio, on the eatt fide of th
ifle, is handfome and convenient. The Greeks here enjoy confiderable
freedom and eafe : and difplay fuch induftry that the country refemble, d
garden. This particular favour arifes from the cultivation of tké malt
trees, or rather fhrubs, for they are fmall evergreens which fupply the
gum, fo acceptable to the ladies of the Sultan’s haram, or, as we term j
the feraglio. The whole ifle is mountainous. Tournefort obferved here
tame partridges, kept like poultry; and Chandler faw numerous groves of
lemons, oraayes and citrons, perfuming the air with the odour of their
bloffoms, and delighting the eye with their golden fruit. The Genoef
poffeffed this beautiful ifle about 240 years, but loft it in 1566. Oppofite
to Scio, on the Afiatic fhore, is Chefmé, where the Turkith fleet was
deftroyed by the Ruffians, 1770. The inhabitants of Scio are fuppofed
to be about 60,000 *.
‘Samos is about 30 miles in length, and 10 in breadth. This ifle is alfy
croffed by a chain of hills, and the moft agreeable part is the plain of
Cora. Tournefort computes the inhabitants at 1 2,000, all Greeks with
Turkifh aga, or military officer, and a cadi or judge. The pottery of
Samos was anciently excellent ; but at prefent moft branches of induf
are negleéted. Pitch is prepared from the pine trees ip the north part of
the ifland, and the filk, honey,‘and wax are efteemed. Moft of the mou.
tains are of white marble, and {warm with game of various defcriptions,
The beft haven is that of Vati tothe N.W. Some remains are obferred
of the celebrated temple of Juno +.
Cos is about 24 miles in length, by three or four in breadth ; but has
been little vifited by modern travellers. Pliny ftyles Cos a mot noble
ifle ; and from it was firft derived the name and fubftance of the whetftone,
It is now covered with groves of lemon trees, and there is an Orientd
plane tree of vait fize. The chief trade is in oranges and lemons; and
Cos is the refidence of a Turkifh patha ¢.
Rhodes is about 36 Britifh miles in length, by 15 in breadth, an ifland
celebrated in ancient and modern times. It is fertile in wheat, though
the foil be of a fandy nature. The population is computed at abou
30,000. The city of the fame name, in which no Chriftian is now pers
mitted to dwell, ftands in the north end of the ifle; and was anciently
noted for a coloffus in bronze, about 130 feet high. This ifle was for
two centuries poffefled by the knights of St. John of Jerufalen,
thence ftyled of Rhodes, till 1 523) when it was taken by the Turks;
and the emperor Charles V. afligned to the knights the ifland of
Malta §.
i. the fouthern fhore of Afia Minor there are fome finall iffes,
among which is that of Caftel Roffo, S.E. of Patira, But they are of
no moment when compared with the large and celebrated ifland of Cy.
prus, which is about 160 Britifh miles, in pg and about 70 at its
greateft breadth. It was long. poflefled by the Ptolemies of Egypt,
till it fell under the Roman power; when it remained a portion of the
Byzantine empire, till it was ufurped by a Greek prince, who was ex
pelled by Richard I. of ee ac ys This monarch beltowed the kingdom
of Cyprus on the houfe of Lufignan, as a compenfation for the lof
of the throne of Jerufalem. In the fifteenth century the heirefs of
the houfe of Lufignan refigned this ifle to the Venetians ; but in 1570
Van Egmont, i, 237, &c. Chandler, 48.
® Tournefort, p. 281.
+ Van Egmont, i. 262.
+ Ib. i. 307. Dallawey, 251,
§ Ib.i. 266, who gives a long defcription of Rhodes.
12
it was feized by
neglected ftate.
and timber. Thi
ae excellent ; an
nies, and other t
its name from th
ciently produced
phian diamond i
uarry of amian
other mineral pr
riots are a tall
confifts in their
yernment the poy
fouls! Cyprus
is a third Olymp
eneral for a m
land *, that cor
ponds, lakes anc
chief cities are N
Famagulta +.
Names. — Evctent.
§
‘Extent. J gy
degree of longitu
weltern longitude
hall only be affur
at about 4,590 ge
of Cosere Pn
chain of mountait
1,680 geographic
computed at 5535
found to exceed t
BounDARIES. ]
feas of Kamchat
ocean, On the v
and Europe. Tl
Cuban, part of th
territory from T
the north of the
* Tt is faid however
year,
TURKEY IN ASIA. 335
: Of the it was feized by the Turks. The foil is fertile, yet agriculture is in a
rerabl neglected ftate. The chief products are filk, cotton, wines, turpentine,
embles a MM od timber. The wine of Cyprus is defervedly celebrated. The oranges
HE matt ae excellent ; and the mountains are covered with hyacinths and anemo-
Apply the ries, and other beautiful flowers. Cyprus is fuppofed to have derived
€ term it, itsname from the abundance of copper ore; and it is faid to have an-
rved here ently produced gold, filver, and emeralds. What is called the Pa-
Broves of hian diamond is a rock cryftal, found near Paphos; and there isa
#3 thei warty of amianthus, while feveral hills confift chiefly of talc. The
0 Cnoele HAMM ther mineral pene are red jafper, agates, and umber. The Cy-
areette rots are a tall and elegant race; but the chief beauty of the women
rin was confits in their fparkling eyes. To the difgrace of the Turkith go- ~
Uppofed yernment the population of this extenfive ifland is computed at 50,000
fle is alf fouls! Cyprus is pervaded by a chain of mountains, among which
. his \“ is a third Olympus, fome primitive name, which feems to have been
we vA eneral for a mountain of great height. There is not one river in the
tN , land *, that continues its courfe in the fummer; but there are many
aries ha ponds, lakes and fens, producing a damp and malignant air. The
h pew chief cities are Nicofia, the capital and refidence of the governor, and
he moun. Famagulta . es ||
criptions,
obferred
; but has
ee RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. )
| Oriental
ons; and CHAPTER I.
an iffand HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY. -
’ though
at hae Names. — Ewctent.— Boundaries.— Original Population. — Progreffive Geo«
now pet graphy. — Hiflorical Epochs and Antiquities. ee
anciently
was for ; HIS large portion of the habitable globe extends
rufalem, Extent. J T almoft the whole length of Afia, from soit the 37th
P Turks; degree of longitude eaft of London to more than 190°, or 170° of
ifland of fam weltern longitude. As the northern latitude is very high, the degree -
hall only be affumed at 30 miles, and the length may thus be computed
all ifles, MN at about 4,590 geographical miles. The greateft breadth from the cape
ey are of of Cevero Voftochnoi, called in fome maps Taimura, to the Alltaian
4 of Cy. fm chain of mountains on the fouth of the fea of Baikal, may be 28° or
no at its a 1,680 geographical miles. In Britith miles the length may be roughly
Egypt, a Computed at 5,350 and the breadth at 1,960, an extent which will be
bn of the lm found to exceed that of Europe.
D was eX Bounparigs.] The farthett eaftern boundary is that of Afia, and the
kingdom HM {eas of Kamchatka and Ochotfk ; while the northern is the Arétic
r the loft Mm ocean, On the weft the frontiers correfpond with thofe between Afia
peirefs of MN and Europe. The fouthern limits require more explanation. The river
in 1570 Cuban, part of the Caucafian chain, and an ideal line, divide the Ruffian
territory from Turkey and Perfia. ‘The boundary then afcends along
" the north of the Cafpian through the ftepp or defert of iffim, and the
. * It is faid however that the river Pifcopia flows, and even drives grift mills through the
tt year, + Van Egmont, i, 261, Mariti, &e. P
eaftern
33? RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
eaftern fhore of the river Ob, to where it iffues from the Altaian mou,
tains, when it meets the vaft empire of China, and proceeds along that
chain to the fources of the Onon, where it includes a confiderable region
called Daouria, extending about 200 miles in breadth, to the fouth of
the mountains called Yablonny; the limit between Ruffia and Chinej
‘Tatary being partly an ideal line; and partly the river Argoon which
joined with the Onon conttitutes the great river Amur. Thence the
boundary seturns to the mountainous chain, and follows a branch of it
to a promontory on the north of the mouth of the Amur.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ]. The population of Afiatic Ruffia may he
regarded as wholly primitive, except a few Ruffian colonies recently
planted, and the Techucks in the part oppofite to America, who have
been fuppofed to have proceeded from that continent, as already men,
tioned, becaufe their perfons and cuftoms are different from thofe of the
other Afiatic tribes, Next to the Techucks, in the fartheft north, are
the Yukagirs, a branch of the Yakuts, and yet farther weft the Samo.
des. To the fouth of the Techuks are the Coriaks, a branch of the
fame race; and yet farther fouth the Kamchadals, a diftin& people, who
{peak « different language. The Lamutsare a part of the Mandhuy
or Tungufes, who have been vaguely called Tartars or Tatars, though
they neither belong to that race nor to the Monguls, The Tungafes are
widely diffufed between the Yenifei and the Amur; and the fouthem
tribes ruled by a khan or monarch, conquered China in the feventeenth
century. The Oftiaks, and other tribes of Samoides have penetrated
confiderably to the fouth between the Yenifei and the Irtith, and are
followed by various tribes of tht Monguls, as the Calmucs, Burats,
&c. and by thofe of the Tatars or Huns, as the Teluts, Kirgufes, and
others. The radically diftinét languages amount to feven, independent
of many dialeGts and mixtures *.
Names. ] The vaft extent of northern Afia was firft known by the
name of Sibir, or Siberia; but this appellation feems gradually to pals
into difufe. When the Monguls eftablifhed a kingdom in thefe northern
regions, the firft refidence of the princes was on the river Tura, on the
{pot where now {ftands the town of Tiumen, about 180 miles S, W. of
TPoboltk . But the khans afterwards moved to the eaftern fhore of the
Irtifh, where they founded the city of Ifker, near Tobolfk. This new
refidence was alfo called Sibir, from what etymon or caufe is not explained;
and the name of the city paffed to the Mongul principality. When the
Ruffians began the conquett of the country, bejng unconfcious of its ex.
tent, the name of this weftern province was gradually diffufed over half
of Afia.
ProGRrEssiveE GEOGRAPHY. ] The progreffive geography of this vat
part of Afia commences at a recent period; nor was it difclofed to the
attention of civilifed Europe till the middle of the fixteenth century, It
is indeed a fingular circumftance in human affairs, that America may be
faid to have been difcovered before Afia, though it be natural to fuppofe
that the latter would have engaged a more deep and immediate interel,
becaufe the barbarous {warms in the extremity of Afia had repeatedly
aftonifhed and almoft fubjugated Europe. It hes already been mentioned
that in 1242 the Monguls under Sheibani eftub'ifhed a principality in the
weftern part of Siberia, around Tobolfk and the river ‘Tura, whence this
# See the Hift. des Decouvertes Ruffes, &e.; Berne 1779, 17873; 6 vole, 9v0; being
an abitraét of the Travels of Pallas, Gmelin, Ghiorghi, &e.
+ Pooke's Rua, ii. 60,
prine
rincipality wa
ditant principa
Mongul dynait
In the reig
eteemed the fo
fur as the river
Mofcowf 3 bu
of Siberia com
the Ruffian thr
agel, having o
attempt the con
added to his tit]
till the beginnin
ments, and one
rfiding at T
Towards the mi
asfar ealt as the
the year 1711.
difcover the ot
Bering coafted
but his impertar
Aleutian ifles we
other important
Cook.
In the fouth
1552, and that o
to the Cafpian
eography by t
Brite It henc
hid miftaken the
north to fouth,
lincated. In th
were made to t!
travellers ; and a
as nearly comple
HIsTORICAL 1
origin, that it afl
already mefitione
or the kingdom ¢
obfcure and u
northern and bar
was ce in 125
principality, par
Rutfiane affere t
Monguls in the
iy of the hifte
he acquifitions
known events,
As the Ruffia
Tatary, or rath
protection and f
nite a few event
* This muft not b
? Coxe’s Ruff D
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 333
rincipality was fometimes ftyled that of Turan*. The hiftory of this
iitant principality is obfcure, and lott in the fupericr fplendour of the other
Priok i ul dynatties.
ng that Me the Treloa of Ivan Vafilivitch, by his conqueft over the Tatars
ee steemed the founder of Ruffian greatnefs, fome incurfions were made as
Ou 10
fr as the river Ob, and fome Mongnl chiefs were brought prifoners to
Chinefe Mofcowt ; but more than half a century elapfed before the real conqueft
1 Which of Siberia commenced in the reign of Ivan Vafilivitch III., who afcended
, * the Ruffian throne in 1534. ‘Trogonaff, a Ruffian merchant of Arch.
Ch OF it i
ugel, having opened a traffic for Siberian furs, the czar was induced to
attempt the conqueft of the country which fupplied them, and in 1538 had
May be added to his titles that of lord of Sibir or Siberia. It was not however
recently ill the beginning of the feventeenth century that they had firm eftablifh-
ho hae ments, and one by rian was appointed firft archbifhop of Sibir in 1621,
ty Saal refiding at Tobolile where he drew up a narrative of the conqueft.
© of the Towards the middle of the feventeenth century the Ruffians had extended
i a asfar eaft as the river Amur, but Kamchatka was not finally reduced till
Ole
h of the year 1711. Bering and other navigators afterwards proceeded to
as difeover the other extreme parts of Afia. In his firft voyage of 1728,
ple, who Bering coatted the eatiern fhore of Siberia as high as latitude 67° 18°;
fandhuy hut his impertant difcoveries were made during his voyage of 1741. The
» though Aleutian ifles were vilited in 1745; and in the reign of the late emprefs
oe other important difcoveries followed, which were completed by thofe of
ook.
renin ws the fouth the Mongul kingdom of Cazan having been fubdued in
hit pe 1552, and that of Altracan in £554, and the Ruffian monarchy extended
, are 4 the Cafpian fea, a confiderable acc@ffion was made to the progreflive
uf hai geography by the chart of that fea, drawn by command of Peter the
eit Greate It hence appeared, that all geographers, ancient and moderns
had miftaken the very form of the Catpian, which extends greatly from
north to fouth, inftead of fpreading from eait to weit, as formerly de-
lincated. In the reign of the late emprefs many important additions
were made to the progreflive geography by Pallas and other {cientific
travellers ; and a Ruffian Atlas was publifhed, which may be regarded
as nearly complete.
HisroricAn Evocns.] The Ruffian power in Afia is of fuch recent
origin, that it affords few hiftorical epochs, except thofe which have been
already mentioned in the progreflive geography. ‘The hiftory of Capfchak,
orthe kingdom of Aftracan, before and after the conqueft of the Monguls,,
sobfcure and uninterefling ; nor can that of Cazan, or Kazan, a more
northern and barbarous flate, claim fuperior attention. The city of Kazan
was built in 1257, and became the capital of a fmall independent Mongul
principality, partly in Europe, and partly in Afias A.D. 1441. The
Ruflians affert that they poffeffed Aftracan before the invafion of the
Monguls in the thirteenth century ; but while even this is doubtful, other
arts of the hiftory of Afiatic Ruffia cannot be fuppofed to be very clear.
Ihe acquifitions on the frontiers of Turkey and Perdia are recent and well
known events,
As the Ruffian empire in Afia borders for a great extent upon Chinefe
Tatary, or rather the Monguls and Mandfhurs, who acknowledge the
protection and fupremacy of China, it may be proper here to commemo-
nte a few events which have arifen from this proztmity. It has already
n by the
y to pafs
northern
by on the
5. W. of
re of the
This new
plained;
NV hen the
of its ex.
over half
this vaft
id to the
rye It
wes ts
fuppofe
interelt,
peatedly
entioned
y in the
uce this
* This muft not be confounded with the Touran (or Tatary) of the Perfians.
0; being f Coxe’s Ruff, Dif, p. 177,
been
prine
334 RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. *
been obferved, that about the middle of the feventeenth century the Rus
fians had advanced to the river Amur ; here they fubdued fome Typ, %,
fian tribes, and built fome fmall fortreffes. The Chinefe monarch Camhi
having formed a fimilar defign, the two great phir unavoidably clathed.
open hoftilities commenced about 1680, and the Chinefe deftroyed the
Ruffian forts. In Auguft 1689 the treaty of Nerfhinfk, fo called from
the town in Daouria, was figned by the Ruffian and Chinefe Plenipoten,
tiaries, and the limits fpecified were a chain of mountains far to the north
of the Amur, and the fource of the fmall river Gorbitza, thence to where
that river joins the Amur, and laftly along the Argoon, or Argounig
&c.*- By this treaty the Ruffians affert that they not only loft a wie
territory, but alfo the navigation of the river Amur, which would have
been of great confequence to their remote poffeffions in A fia ; yet the
advantage was gained of a commercial intercourfe with the Chinefe, |,
1727 the limits were continued wettward from the fource of the Argoon
to the mountain Sabyntaban, near the conflux of two rivers with the
Yenifei ; the boundary being thus afcertained between the Ruffians and
the Monguls fubje& to China. The trade with China has been latterly
conducted at Zuruchaitu, on the river Argoon, lat. 50, long. 1 175 and
at Kiachta, about go miles S. of the fea of Baikal, lat. 51, long. 106,
This boundary between two ftates is the moft extenfive on the globe,
reaching from about the 65th to the 145th degree of longjtude ; eighty
degrees (latitude fifty) computed at 39 geographical miles, will yield the
vefalt of 3,120 miles. Its hiftory, therefore, becomes fingular and jp.
tere(ting.
AntiquitiEs.] The moft curious antiquities feem to be the ftone tombs
which abound in fome fteppes, pargicularly near the river Yenifei, repre.
fenting in rude fculpture human faces, camels, horfemen with lances, and
other objects. “Here are found, befides human bones, thofe of horfes and
oxen, with fragments of pottery and ornaments of drefs +.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
.
Religion. — Ecclefiaftic Geography.— Government. — Laws.— Population —
Colonies. — Army. — Navy.— Revenues.— Political Importance and Re.
lations.
HE Grecian fyftem of the Chriftian faith, which is
embraced by the Ruffians, has made inconfiderable
progrefs in their Afiatic poffeffions. Many of the Tatar tribes in the
S.W. are Mahometans ; and others follow the fuperftition of Dalai La.
ma, of which an account fhall be given in the defcription of the Chinefe
empire. But the more eaftern Tatars are generally addiéted to the Sha
man religion, a fy{tem chiefly founded .on the felf-exiftence of matter, a
fpiritual world, and the general reftitution of all perk $. The Shama.
nians even believe that the Burchans, or gods themfelves, arofe from the
general mafs of matter and fpirit. Their epochs of deftraétion and refi
tution fomewhat refemble thofe of the Hindoos. While common fouls
immediately receive their final decree, the virtuous become chubils, or wan-
dering {pirits, who are purified by tranfmigration, fo as alfo to become
RELIGION. ]
+ Dec. Ruff. vi.210. $~ Tooke’s Ruffia, 1789, iv. 42.
Burchans,
* Coxe, 299. Du Halde, iv,
R
furchans, or gods
teair, who direé
ga, but beneath |
egions chiefly cor
Fem is intimatel:
ndely diffufed, th
lent fyftem on t
ytions, aS a great
(ftiaks, the Mandi
the Coriaks and
The archiepifcoy
nthe north, and 1
tht of Irkutfk anc
ation.
GovERNMENT. ]
of Tobolfk in the \
ye Kolivan, Nerfh
vernment of Cat
Biope and Afia.
mes proportionab
PopULATION. ]
hove three millions
) apprehend from
een eftablifhed in f{
tical importance anc
rate to China and
Manners and Cuflom
To
MANNERS AND Cus
by whom that exte
aled, are the mott
don of Sibir, but c
ays, the Kirgufes o
ources of the river ¢
ne tribe, the Kal
he others, called B
Baikal. Yet farthe
re the three radical
gnorance claffed un
The manners of ¢
f antiquity, are min
¢ fall of the Ro
ken abfolutely unk
ter into a detail of
Aliatic Ruflia, for
* Tooke’s F
e Ruf.
lungu.
Camhi
lathed ;
ved. the
ed from
poten.
le north
D where
gounia,
a Wide
id have
yet the
fe. In
Argoon
vith the
ans and
latterly
73 and
ig. 106,
- globe,
eight
‘eld th
and in.
e tombs
» Yepre.
ces, and
rfes and
ation. —
and Re.
which is
iderable
B in the
alai La.
Chinefe
he Sha-
atter, a
Shama.
rom the
d refi.
on fouls
or wane
become
By iv. 42,
chans,
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 335
gurchans, or gods. Between men and gods are the ecpsis or fpirits of
ie ait, Who dire&t fublunary affairs, and all the trifles fo important to
gan, but beneath the moft remote attention of the gods. The infernal
ygions chiefly contain thofe who have offended the priefthood. This
fem is intimately conneéted with that of the Dalai Lama, and is fo
wiely diffufed, that fome have afferted Shamanifm to be the moit pre-
dent fyftem on the globe. In Afiatic Ruffia it is profeffed by moft
ytions, a8 a great part of the Tatars, with the Fins, Samoieds, and
(tiaks, the Mandfhurs, and: Burats, and Tungufes ; and has even p- Ted
the Coriak’s and Techuks, and peop of the eaftern ifles *.
The archiepifcopal fee of Tobolfk is the metropolitan of Ruffian Afia
athe north, and that of Aftracan in the fouth. There is another fee,
dat of Irkutfk and Nerfhink, and perhaps a few others of recent foun-
jon. .
See Siberia is divided into two great governments, that
if Tobolfk in the weft, and Irkutfk in the eaft. The {maller provinces
ge Kolivan, Nerfhinfk, Yakutfk, and Ochotfk. In the S. W. is the
vernment of Caucafus, with one or two other divifions, intermingling
Fiope and Afia. Ata diftance from the capital the Lyte ith be-
mes proportionably lax, and tribute is the chief mark of fubjeétion.
PopuLATION.] The population of Siberia cannot be computed at
shove three millions and a half + ; fo that Europe can in future have little
apprehend from the Tataric fwarms. Small Ruffian colonies have
ten eftablifhed in feveral of the diftant provinces and ifles. The poli-
ical importance and relations of this part of the Ruffian empire chiefly
rate to China and Japan.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms. — Language. — Literature. — Education. Cities and
Towns.— Manufaé@ures and Commerce.
; ; HE manners and cuftoms of Afiatic
BANNERS ABD CURCOME: | Ruffia vary with the numerous tribes
bly whom that extenfive region is peopled. The Tatars, properly fo
illd, are the moft numerous, not only remaining in their ancient king-
jon of Sibir, but conftituting many other tribes in the weft, as the No-
nys, the Kirgufes or Kaizaks, the Bafhkirs, and other tribes as far as the
purces of the river Ob. Next in importance are the Monguls, of whom
me tribe, the Kalmuks, are found to the welt of the Cafpian; while
ie others, called Burats, Torguts, &c. are chiefly around the fea of
Baikal. Yet farther to the eaft are the Mandfhurs, or Tungufes, Such
ethe three radically diftinét divifions of men, whom former European
gnorance clafled under the general name of ‘T'artars.
The manners of the Tatars, who are the fame people with the Huns
antiquity, are minutely defcribed by thofe authors who have delineated
e fall of the Roman empire, prior to which period they feem to have
yen abfolutely unknown to the ancients. It would be fuperfluous to
ter into a detail of the manners and cuftoms of the various nations in
Aliatic Ruflia, for which the reader may be referred to the works of
® Tooke’s Ruffia, 1783, iii, 42. + Tooke’s View, ii, 132.
Pallas,
336 RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
Pallas, and other recent travellers. _ In fo ample a theme the difficulty ;
Y 18
to fele& ; andthe manners of the Monguls may be chofen as a fpecimen
Thofe of the Ruffian empire are wholly Nomadic, their herds confitting
of horfes, camels, oxen, fheep, and goats. The women tan leather, qj
the culinary roots, prepare the winter provifions, dried or falted, and diftil
the koumifs, or {pirit of mare’s milk. ‘The men hunt the tumeroys
beafts and game that roam through the vaft wilds. Their tents are
formed of a kind of felt, and in fome parts they ereé& little temples, and
the priefts have alfo wooden hovels around the temples. The Kalmuks
are divided into three ranks ; the nobility, whom they call white bongs.
the common people, who are bondmen, and termed black bones; and the
clergy, defcending from both, who are free *. In like manner the noble
ladies are called white flefh, and the common people black fleth ; but the
pedigrees are only reckoned by the bones. The power of the Tuidq
or chief prince, confilts folely in the number and opulence of his fubjedty
territory being of no eftimation in fo wide a region. ‘Thefe fubje&s fait
an Olu/s, divided into Jmaks, from 150 to 300 families, each Imak being
commanded by a Saiffan, or noble. If there be a great khan, orem.
peror, the princes are only guided by him in affairs of general import.
ance. The tribute is about a tenth part of the cattle and other property.
but, on the firft fummons, every man mutt appear on horfeback before
the prince, who difmifles thofe who are unlit for the fatigues of war.
The weapons are bows, lances, and fabres, and fometimes fire-arms ; and
the rich warriors are clothed in mail of interwoven rings, like that uj
in Europe till the fifteenth century. But they cannot oppofe reguli
armies, and are apt even to diforder thofe of their allies,
The Monguls are rather fhort in ftature, with a flat vifage, fmall ob.
lique eyes ¢, thick lips, and a fhort chin, with a feanty beard 5 the bait
black, and the complexion of a reddifh or yellowifl, brown $ but thatof
the women is clear, and of a healthy white and red. They have iu.
prifing quicknefs of fight and apprehention, and are docile, hofpitab,,
beneficent, active, and voluptuous. Induftry is a virtue entirely fem,
yet great, and accompanied with perpetual cheerfulnefs. Their religioys
books are in the dialeét of Tangt. or ‘Tibet, and there is a {choolmater
in every imak, who imparts more knowledge to the boys than would be
expected. Animal food is abundant, and fometimes mixed with vege.
table, while the general drink is water ; but they fometimes indulge in
four milk, prepared after the Tatarian manner, butter-milk, and kou.
mifs ; but mead and brandy are now greater favourites. When pal.
turage begins to fail, the whole tribe ftrike their tents, generally from
ten to fifteen timesin the year, proceeding in the fummer to the northern,
and in the winter to the fouthern wilds. The herds, men, women, and
children, form a regular proceffion, and are followed by the girls, finging
with harmony and fpirit. The amufements of thefe jovial wanders
confift in running races on horfeback, in which even the girls excel; a.
chery, wreftling, pantomime, dances, and the fongs of the young wo.
men, generally accompanied by the lute, viol, and pipe, the themes of
their ditties being gigantic tales of chivalry, and amorous adventures and
fentiments ; but the melody is harfh and difmal. Cards are not unknown,
but chefs is the favourite game.
Mr. Tooke has ig ap ol curious pieces of Kalmuk poetry, from
which a charaéteriftic fpeciinen fhall be feleted, being an elegy on th
* Tooke, iv. 14,
+ The eye afcending towards the temples, like the Chinefe, feems a peculiar feature 0
the Monguls aud Mandthurs, The Tatar cye is (mall, but firsit, or horizontal, i
5 eC COLON
feceffion of a
nation, fougl
“ The 1
When it h:
This is the
Ye white bh
Thou prin
Riding on
The prince
Ah! Uba!
There over
The herds |
By flying c
Ah! how:
Now you a
Why was t
Ye otherwi!
How far ye
Ah! the b
Ah! the lo
Ah! thy m
Ye are now
Ah! thou
Art now pe
Ah! helple
Thou excell
Ye have no
Fare ye wel
Princes Ak:
Such, with fo
Tatars and Ma
The three «
gules, or Man
gions of Afia,
and repeatedly
name of 'T'arta
with far greate
nations, as Tur
and Tataria in t
the account alr
of the ethical ¢
Lancuacr.’
diferent ; and
fome flight trac
languages, 'T'l
cimen of ‘Tatar’
of the belt Chi
which, having a
Jn the Mongul
* Raffa, 1789,
+ Zagan Khaian
the cattern nations,
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
FFiculty jg feceffion of a hord on the Volga, which, difgufted by the || ‘lian dumni-
ipecimen, nition, fought the protection of China * :
confittin ;
ther, di « The water of the vaft ocean,
and ditt When it has raged with all its fury, becalms itfelf again ;
Aumerous This is the courfe of the world ; and likewife {till to forget,
tents are Ye white herds, with the mark of Schzbiner !
nples, and Thou prince Schereng, in the van as conductor,
Kalmuks Riding on thy noble reddifh bay horfe ;
ite bones; The prince Zebek following with his numerous troop,
and the Ah! Ubafchakhan, conduct as now the Torgots !
" the noble There over rocks, over ftones, and rough places,
15 but the The herds drag themfelves along, and become lean,
re Taide, By flying over the land all covered with fnew and frott,
8 fubjecs, Ah! how the droves trot over the fnow !
pjeSts form Now you are got thither and come to your refting place. :
mak being Why was there any quarrel between thee and the white khan + ?
Site cus Ye otherwife peaceful Torgots between the Yaik and the Volga,
ral imports How far ye now retreat !
"Property 5 Ah! the beautiful Volga (Idfhel) is abandoned by the Torgot.
ack before Ah! the lovely ftream of Mazak is now likewife become an orphan.
1e8 OF wr, Ah! thy many excellent young princes,
“arms 5 and Ye are now all marched far away over the Yaik,
e that ued Ah! thou well arranged troop of _Torgots,
ofe regulit Art now perhaps arrived at the Irtifch (Ertfchis),
Ah! helplefs,, lamentable time !
Thou excellent hoft of warriors marching towards Altai,
Ye have no princely women among you ! ;
Fare ye well, ye who bring up the rear of the hord,
Princes Akfakal and Kirep !”
ey {mall ob.
ds the hair
but that of
y have tur
hotpitable,
ely ferrale,
heir religious
chooltatter
in would be
with veges
8 indulve in
» and kow.
When af
erally from
he northern,
Wwomen, and
rirls, finging
al wanderers
5 excel s ate
b young woe
e themes of
ventures and
pt unknown,
Such, with fome flight fhades of difference, are alfo the manners of the
Tatars and Mandfhurs.
The three diftin€& barbaric nations of Tatars, Monguls, and Tun-
gufes, or Mandfhurs, are by far the molt interefting in thefe middle re-
gions of Afia, as their anceftors have overturned the greateft empires,
and repeatedly influenced the deftiny of half the globe. The vague
name of ‘T'artary is nearly difcarded from our maps, and might yield
with far greater precifion to names derived from the feats of the chicf
nations, as T'ungufia, or Mandfhuria, in the ealt, Mongolia in the centre,
and Tataria in the weft. Of thefe the Monguls are the chief people, and
the account already given of their manners will fuffice to impart an idea
of the ethical condition of Afiatic Ruffia.
Laxcuace.] The languages of all thefe original nations are radically
different; and among the Tungufes, Monguls, and Tatars, there are
fome flight traces of literature ; and not a few manufcripts in their feveral
languages. The hiftory of the Tatars, by Abulgal, is a favourable f{pe-
cimen of ‘Tataric compofition. The late emperor of China ordered many
of the belt Chinefe works to be tranflated into the Mandfhur language,
which, having an alphabet, may be more eafily acquired than the original,
Jn the Mongul language there’are alfo many books, written in the various
hoetry, from
elegy on th
* Ruffia, 1789. 4 vols. Bvo. vol. iv. p. 66,
+ Zagan Khaian, the name by which the Ruffian monarch is knowp among almoft all
culiar feature o i
the cattern nations, 2
tal,
fecellion
countrics
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
338
countries to which their wide conquefts extended. Superior, even amij
their barbarifm, to the chief original nations of Africa and America, tly burg, and J
central races of Afia deferve an attention which has been lavifhed Upon gion.
On the w
inferior objects. “
Citizs AND Towys.] In Afjatic Ruffia the principal city is Aftrs,
can, at the mouth of the Volga, which is fuppofed to contain 70,99
churches, bu
Ruffians, as
ifhabitants. This city was founded by the Monguls of Kipfchak, yet here about t
fome affert that the Ruffians built A ftracan before Batu, the Mongul con. mouth, ) but i
queror, feized this region. In 1554 the Monguls were expelled. Aftr,, barks, chiefly
on the fea of
town.
MANuUrFAct
leather, at A:
places in A fiat
of the Cafpiar
the beluga.
derable tabric
Tatars and B:
exported. ‘'T'h
provinces, beir
Shagreen is p'
particular part
given with the
while moift *.
can is built on feveral {mall hills, that rife amid the meadows of the Vo]
The fortrefs on the weft is triangular, but the walls of the city arene.
gleéted. The wooden houfes have expofed it to frequent conflagration,
and attempts have been vainly made to enforce the ufe of brick. Vines
are cultivated in the neighbourhood, and other fruits abound. There are
twenty-five Ruffian churches, and two convents. The Armenians, [y,
therans, and Papifts, have alfo their places of worfhip ; and even the
Hindoos have been permitted to ere&t a temple*. The chief trade of
Aftracan is in falt and fith, particularly fturgeon and kaviar from the
Volga; and it alfo attraéts fome portion of oriental commerce, The
fifhery on the Cafpian, which centers at Aftracan, is efteemed of the
utmott confequence to the empire.
Azof, on the Afiatic fide of the Don, is of {mall importance, ey.
cept as a fortified polt. The chief towns on the Afiiatic fide of the
Volga are Samara and Stauropol. At the mouth of the river Ura,
or Jaik, ftands Gurief; but the chief place after Aftracan is Oren. Near the Ural:
burg, founded in the year 1740, to protect the acquifitions in thefe parts copper.
and promote their commerce. Nor have thefe views failed, for Oren. ComMERcE. ]
burg is the feat of a confiderable trade with the tribes on the eaft of the pite confilts in fa
Cafpian. by the Chinefe,
gules is carried
houfehold article
On the Black §
bing furs, kav
toffee, filks, rice
fame, but the
ae Aftracan, G
the beft haven is
theeait of the C
Bucharia, as cot
utile is raw Gj
apian,
On paffing the Uralian chain, firft occurs the city of Tobolfk, which
only contains about 15,000 fouls, but is efteemed the capital of Sit.
ria. Being moftly built of wood, it was nearly confumed by a violent
fire about 1786; but, it is believed, is now rebuilt, chiefly of ftone,
Tobolik is more diftinguifhed as the refidence of the governor and arch.
bifhop than for the importance of its commerce. The upper town ftands
ona hill, on the eaft fide of the Irtith, and contains a {tone fortrefs of {ome
ftrength. Indian goods are brought hither by Kalmuck and Bucharian
merchants, and provifions are cheap and plentiful.
Kolyvan is a town of fome confequence on the river Ob. In th
neighbourhood there are filver mines of confidérable produce. To the’
north of Kolyvan is Temfk, faid to contain about 8000 fouls,
Farther to the ealt the towns become of lefs confequence, buta
village attracts attention when fituated in a defert. On the river Ye.
nifei is a {mall town of the fame name, and another called Sayank,
whence the adjacent part of the Altaian chain is called the mountains of
Sayankk. os
On the river Angara, wich iffues from the fea of Baikal, ftands Ir.
kutfk, fuppofed to contain 12,000 inhabitants. There are fever
churches and other editices of ftone, and the wooden houfes are large
and convenient. Irkutik is the chief mart of the commerce be.
tween Ruffia and China, the fee of an archbifhop, and the feat of
fupreme jurifdi&ion over Eaftern Siberia +. Tle numerous officers
aud magiftrates have introduced the ¢uftoms and fafhions of Peter
linate and Seafons,
‘—_ akes — Mo;
Mineral Waters,
LIMATE AND sR
} he folitary lichen
Tooke’s Ruff, iv, 541, > Leffeps, ii, 344,
burg,
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 339
burg, and European equipages are not uncommon in this diftant ree
On the wide and frozen Lena ftands Yakutfk, with fome ftone
: hurches, but the houfes are moftly of wood, and inhabited chiefly by
is Attra. Ruffans, as the Yakuts are fond of a wandering life. The Lets i
i ae here about two leagues in width, (though about yoo miles from its
- oi mouth) but is greatly impeded with ice ; and there are only a few {mall
AR harks, chiefly employed in fupplying the town with provitions, Ochotfk,y
ati on the fea of the fame name, may be rather regarded as a ftation than a
ne Volga, Hie
ts nthe Manuractures.] There ate fome manufactures, particularly in
ee leather, at Aftracan ; and falt is prepared there, and in feveral other
There i aces in Afiatic Ruffia. Ifinglafs is chiefly manufaétured on the fhores
jans, Lu of the Cafpian, from the founds or air-bladder of the fturgeon, and
@sen the the beluga. Kaviar is the falted roe of large fifh. There is a confi.
F trade of derable fabric of, nitre, about 40 miles to the N. of Aitracan. The
Tatars and Bafhkirs make felts of a large fize, fome of which are
Las exported. The Ruffia leather is chiefly fabricated in the European
el of rf provinces, being tanned with willow bark, and afterwards ftained.
Shagreen is ie from the hides of horfes or affes, but only a
tance, ex. patticular part © the back is fit for this purpofe ; and the grain is
de of the wen with the hard feeds of the greater orach, prett into the leather
, while moit*. Pitch is made by the boors from the pines of Siberia.
ab a Near the Uralian mountains are feveral manufatures in iron and
thefe parts, copper. : ;
for Oren. ComMERCE. | The chief commerce of this part of the Ruffian ems
-eatt of the Mam pre confilts in fables, and other valuable furs, which are eagerly bought
bythe Chinefe, who return tea, filk, and porcelain: that with the Kir.
gules is cartied on by exchahging Ruffian woollen cloths, iron, and
houfehold articles, for horfes, cattle, fheep, and beautiful fheep-fkins,
Onthe Black Sea there is fome commerce with Turkey, the exports
being furs, kaviar, iron, linen, &c. and the imports, wine, fruit,
ofiee, filks, rice. In the trade on the Cafpian the exports are the
fime, but the return chiefly filk. The principal Ruffian harbours
ae Aftracan, Gurief, and Kifliur, near the mouth of the Terek, but
the bet haven is Baku, belonging to the Perfians. The Tatars, on
theeatt of the Cafpian, bring the products of their country, and of
Bucharia, as cotton yarn, furs, ftuffs, hides, rhubarb ; but the chief
wtile is raw filk from Shirvan and Ghilan, on the welt of the
afpian,
olfk, which
al of Sibe.
by a violent
ty of ftone,
br and arch-
own ftands
lefs of fome
Bucharian
. Inthe
. Tothe
bce, buta
e river Ye
Sayantk,
ountains of
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY
’ ftands It.
’ chit ont linate and Seafons. Face of the C nae aot and Agriculture Rivers.
s are large '—Lakes.— Mountains. —Fore/}t.—«. otany.——Zoology.—— Mineralogy. a
merce be- Ma ‘Mineral Waters. ; |
aS N AGatic Ruffia the climate extends f
s officers jatic Ruffia the climate extends from
of Peterle MATE AND SRARONS.) the vine at the bottom of Caucafus, to
he folitary lichen'on the rocks of the Arétic ocean. Through the
# Tooke’s View, iii, 591,
a2 greater
burg,
340 RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
greater part of Siberia, the moft fouthern frontier being about 50°,
while the nerthern afcends to 78°, the slsplgniupeined may more juft!
be regarded as frig than temperate ; being, in three quarters of the
may be trac
miles.
country, on a level with that of Norway and Lapland, untempered }, The Ob r
the gales of the Atlantic. To the fouth of the fea of Baikal the climate be not even {
parallels that of Berlin and the north of Germany, fo that the fines Irtith flows i
and moft fertile regions in Middle Afia belong to the Chinefe. Typ Lower Irtith
chains of high mountains, which form the fcuthern boundary of thef Samarof, I
provinces, alfo contribute to increafe the cold; and the fea of Baik) the principal
chain, after h
fome diltance
the eat. Be
= river Irtifh, a
The Ob is na
and abounds
theemed. A:
foul and fetic
morafles ; but
This is juftly
1s commonly entirely frozen from December till May. The fing
climate in thefe ot parts feems to be that of Daouria, or th
province around Nerfhinik ; and the numerous towns on the Amp
evince the great fuperiority of what is called Chinefe Tatary, which js
comparatively a fertile and temperate region. The change of the fea.
fons is very rapid ; the long winter is almoit inftantaneoufly fucceeded by
awarm fpring, andthe quicknefs and luxuriance of the vegetation ex.
ceed defcription.
FAcE OF THE COUNTRY.} In a general view of Afiatic Ruflia, the
northern and eaftern parts prefent vaft marfhy plains, covered with
moft perpetual {now, and pervaded by enormous rivers, which, unde fa empire. The
maifes of ice, purfue their dreary way to the Arctic ocean. Even the the Ket, after
central parts of Siberia feem deflitute of trees, vegetation being checked rafles.
Next is the ‘
mountains to th
name Yenifei ig
its courfe alme
ropriety migh
i, she y
fream of more
mme of Angar
river has fome
afterwards callec
itiflues from the
may be feen at
rocks for the fpad
for the fmalleit |
hilors who navig
the Holy Sea,
highly difpleafed
tals ita lake §.
by the fevere cold of fo wide a continent. Towards the fouth there
are vait forefts. The fublime fcenes around the fea of Baikal are Agree.
ably contrafted with the marks of human indultry, the cultivated fli
and the garden *. Even in the fouth, the rivers have already acquired
the fize of the Danube and the Rhine, and they are navigable with
fafety for a great extent. The vatt plains calted fleppes conttitute a
feature almoft peculiarly A fiatic ; but the mountains do not correfpoad
in dignity, rather refembling the Apennines than the Alps, or even th
Pyrenees.
SOIL AND AGRICULTURE. ] Many parts of Siberia are totally inca
pable of agriculture ; but in the fouthern and wellern diftri@s the foil;
of remarkable fertility. ‘Toward the north of Kolyvan barley generall
_ yields more than twelve fold, and oats commonly twenty fold. B
wheat, in this black light mould, is apt to run into ftalk, but fown i
the pooreft {pots yields from twelve to fifteen fold. Exclufive of wint
wheat, moft of the ufual European grains profper in fouthern Sib
riae The culture of the olive tree has been attempted near A ftracan
and the heat of the fummer was fufficient, but the winter cold too f
vere. The beft rhubarb abounds on the banks of the Ural, or Jiik The Selinga is
in the fouthern diflris watered by the Yenifei, and.in the mountains offmmmle of Baikal 1
Daouria. which is the Tula
tt be paffed,
Proper. 'T'he ter
terelting in Sibe
ology,
The hi of theft
aof Baikal, run
‘parated by a cha
But in all parts of the Ruffian empire agriculture has made little pr
grefs, nor indeed is it poflible while the peafantry are flaves, and fol
with the foil.
Rivens.] Some of the largeft rivers of Afia belong to the Ruff
empire, nearly equalling in the length of their courfe any others ont
globe. The Ob, including its wae eftuary, may be faid to hold
comparative courfe of 1,900 Britith miles, while that of the Yenel
is about 1,750, and that of the Lena 1,570. In the fame mode of men
{uration the Hoan Ho of the Chinefe will, in its wandering pre
exceed the Ob; while the Kian Ku, pervading the centre of Chi
® Sco Bell’s animated defcription of this cegion.
* Pennant, Are. Zo
are
he lat. ee, _
ll, i, 807—~915
£ The Selinga migh
Ahalfo pats throug
out 50°,
ore juftly
rs of the
ipered by
re climate
the fineft
fe. The
y of thefe
of Baikal
The fineft
ay or the
the Amur
ry which is
of the fea.
cceeded by
setation eX
Roflla, the
red with al-
hich, under
. Eventhe
ing checked
fouth there
al are agree.
tivated field
ady acquired
vigable with
conttitute a
t corre{pord
or even th
totally inca
&s the sa
ley generall
fla Buck
but fown i
ive of wint
puthern Sib
4 {tra ul
cold too fe
ral, or Jaik
mountains 0
de little pra
es, and {ol
b the Ruflia
others ont
qd to hold
the Yeneld
ode of me
Ing progr
€
of
ma
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 341
may be traced, if the Porticho be included, for a length of about 2,000
les.
"The Ob may be traced from the lake of Altyn, lat. 1°, if its fource
he not even followed along the Shabekan river to lat. 47°. The upper
Irth ows into the lake of Saifan, whence it iffues under the name of
Lower Irtifh, and after a circuit of great extent, joins the Ob below
simarof, It rifes about the 45°, and ought perhaps to be regarded as
the principal ftream. However this be, the Ob, piercing the Altaian
chain, after having reccived many finall ftreams, paffes Kolyvan, and at
fome diltance to the N. receives the Tomm, and other large rivers from
the eat. Below Samarof, as already mentioned, it receives the great
yer Irtifh, aud runs into the fea of Ob, a gulf of the Arétic ocean.
The Ob is navigable almoft to its fource, that is, to the lake of Altyn,
and abounds with fifth, but the fturgeon of the Irtifh are the moft
theemed. After it has been frozen for fome time, the water becomes
foul and fet?d, owing to the flownefs of the current, and the valt
norafles ; but the river is purified inthe {pring by the melting of the fnow *,
This is juftly and univerfally efteemed the largeft river in the Ruffian
empire. The fhores and channel are generally rocky till it receive .
the Ket, after which the courfe is through clay, marl, fand, and mo-
rafles.
Next is the Yenifei, which is confidered as deriving its fource from the
mountains to the S.W. of the Baikal, in the river called Sifkit ; but the
name Yenifei is not imparted till many ftreams have joined, when it holds
is courfe almoft due north to the Arétic ocean. Yet with far more
propriety might the Yenifei be derived from the fea of Baikal, whence
fows the Angara, afterwards abfurdly called Tunguika +, being a
fream of more length and importance than the Yenifei, fo that the
mme of Angara might be continued till it join the Ardtic fea. This
river has fome rapids, but is navigable for a great way. The Angaray
afterwards called Tungufka, is faid to be about a mile in breadth, when
itiflues from the Baikal, and is fo clear that the pebbles of the bottom
my be feen at the depth of two fathoms t. The channel is full of
rocks for the {pace of about a mile from its egrefs; and there is no paflage
for the fmalleit boats, except along the ete bank. The pilots and
hilors who navigate the lake fpeak of it with much reverence, calling it
the Holy Sea, and the mountains about it the Holy Mountains ; andl are
highly a i with any perfon who {peaks of it with difrefpect, or
tals ita lake §.
The Selin § isa noble river, fartherto the fouth, which flows into the
fea of Baikal q, after receiving the Orchon and other rivers, among
which isthe Tula or Tola, the laft ftream that occurs till the wide de-
rt be paffed, which here divides the Ruffian empire from China
Proper. ‘The territory adjacent to the Selinga and the Onon is the moft
terelting in Siberia, abounding with new, and truly Afiatic botany and
oology.
Theat of thefe large rivers is the Lena, which rifes to the welt of the
of Baikal, running nearly parallel with the Angaray from which it is
eparated by a chain of hills. The Lena receives the Witim, and the
* Pennant, Are. Zool, clxi.
+ There are two other rivers of this name further to the north, the lance tjcia'ng the
nife: in lat. 66°,
bf Bell, i, 807~315, § Bell, i 916. {
€ The Selinga might be regarded as the original Ansara, or Yenilei, as the Ob, and
dh alfo pale through lakes,
Z3 Olekma
442 RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
Olekma from the Yablonoi mountains; and till near Yakuttk, purfuey
a courfe from the S.W. to the N.E. a direction of confiderable utility
.as affording navigation to the remote regions, From Yakutfk the courf
is nay due north: the channel being of great breadth and full of
iflands.
. Such are the moft important rivers of Afiatic Ruffia, the Volza having
been already defcribed in the European divifion. The Yaik is a conf.
derable ream which flows into the Cafpian: the name was recently
changed for that of Ural, on account of a daring infurrection of the tribes
bordering onthe Yaik*. The Terek alfo joins the Cafpian on the wef
and its chief confequence is derived from the fertility of its fhores, Th.
Kuban, or ancient Hypanis, runs in an oppofite direction into the Euxine,
the lower fhores being plain, and deftitute of wood, while near the fources
are large foretts. .
Towards the other extremity of Afiatic Ruffia is the Anadir, which
ervades the country of the Techuks, The long courfe of the Amy
belongs to the Chinefe dominions. ‘The Argoon may be properly cop,
fidered as the original Amur, while the Onon, alfo called the Schilka,
which is regarded as another fource of that great river, may be confiderod
as entirely Ruffian. The courfe of the Onon is about 500 miles ; and it
receives numerous flreams from mountains on the N. and S.
Lakes.] Jn the north of Siberia the moft confiderable lake is that
of Piazinfko. In the fouth the fea of Baikal is frefh, but theextent fa
exceeding that of any other lake, it has been defcribed among the inland
{eas of Afia. Between the river Ob and the Irtifh is a large lake abou
half the length of the Baikal, or 170 miles in length, divided by an ifland
into two parts, called the lakes of Tchany and Soumi. In this quarter
there are many fmaller lakes, and others to the north of the Cafpian, fom
of which are falt, particularly that of Bogdo, near the {mall mountain
fo called.
The Altan Nor, or golden lake, fometimes tee called Elton, i
a large faline lake on the E. of Zaritzin, The lake of Altyn, already
mentioned in the account of the river Ob, is called by the Ruffians Te.
letzko 3 and is confiderably elevated on the north fide of the Altaian
mountains ; but from the beft maps is not above 40 miles in length, aid
20 in breadth.
Mountains.} The Uralian mountains have been already defcribed
in the account of European Ruffia. The grandeft chain in Siberiai
that called the mountains of Altai, which, according to Pallas, crofing
the head of the Irtith, prefents precipitous and {nowy fummits betwee
that river and the fources of the Ob. Thence it winds by the. {pring
of the Yenifei, and the fouth of the fea of Baikal, where it is called the
mountains of Sayanfk. Here the Altaian chain bends in a more norther
direction to the neighbourhood of Ochotfk, under the appellation «
the Yab!onoi ridge, a name implying the mountains of Apples. Branch
of inferior height pafs to the eatlern extremity of Afia under the latt
name, or that of the Stanovoi mountains, The fame chain in the north
Daouria is alfo called the Daourian mountains ; and in this quarter a love
ridge paffes the fouth towards China, '
According to Dr. Pallas Bogdo 'Tolu, or Bogdo Alim, the ra «
mountain, rears its pointed fummits with ftriking fublimity, on the lim
between the Seongarian and Mongoljan deferts, while a chain extends
* This river alone rifeson the EB. of the Ural mountains, and afterwards pierced
granitic chaing and paffes W, Dee, Rui, iv, 009.
thelake of A
aid a {nowy r
thofe of ‘Tibe
called Allako
connected wit
and the Maffe
Alla Koola tl
the Emil and
Bogdo itfelf r
hence this gre
sthus probabl
other ridges |
Hindoftan *,
extremely rock
The wetter:
granitic height:
blue mountain,
not exceed 300
argillaceous {ch
runs north tows
pers and zine.
The Schlang
tothe N.W. bi
poled of porph
Quba rifing to
face of the Alt
been little exp!
and fecondar
cryltal, curoelis
Sabin, near the
chief foreits bei
the Sayanfk me
with feveral min
fides of the fea
montories of mi
and there are fal
diftrict hall be x
The mountain
wards the Seling
fources of the C
Amur), is the 1
the produéts ma
nelian, onyx, la
topaz, ps
+ The mountain
Raitian Daouria, Ded
fulted ‘or an account ¢
9 purfuey
le utility,
the courfe
1d. full of
ga having
18 a conf.
8 recently
" the tribes
1 the wef,
res. The
he Euxine,
the fources
dir, which
the Amur
yperly con.
he Schilka,
confidered
les ; andit
lake is that
cextent far
x the inland
lake about
by an ifland
this quarter
afpian, fome
all mountain
ed Elton, is
yn, already
uffians Te.
the Altaian
length, and
Hy defcribet
n Siberia i
las, croffing
its betwee
the. {pring
is calledt
bre northerl
pellation 0
Branch
br the latt
the northo
arter a lowe
he a
on the lim
extends
pierced
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 343
helake of Altynin the N.W. and another to the S.E. called Changay,
ada {nowy ridge, that of Maffart, paffes fouth, and is fuppofed to join
thofe of ‘Tibet: and laftly this parent mountain fends forth a rocky arm
called Allakoola, or the checquered ridge, and by the Tatars Ala Tau,
conegted with the Kirgufian Alginfkoi Sirt. Between the lait ridge,
andthe Maffart, rife the river Sirr, or Sihon, and the Talas. From
Alla Koola the Ili runs north into the lake of Palkati, or Balkafh, and
the Emil and Tfhui flow in the fame dire€tion. From the mighty
Bogdo itfelf rifes the Upper Irtith, which flows into the lake of Saizan :
hence this great mountain mutt be fituated about long. 93°. lat. 44°. It
isthus probable tha: the Altaian chain is conneéted with the fouthern by
other ridges befides that of Maffart, the deferts between Siberia, and
Hindoftan *, and weftern Bucharia being alternate hills and plains, and
estremely rocky. ‘
The weftern part of the Altaian chain is chiefly argillaceous, with
granitic heights, but many parts are calcareous. Sinnaia-Sopka, or the
blue mountain, the chief fummit in the government of Kolyvan, does
pot exceed 3000 feet above the fea, and confifts of coarfe granite with
argillaceous {chiftus, and limeftone at the bottom. Here a granitic ridge
runs north towards the river Tfarifh, abounding with ores of filver, cop-
pet, and zinc.
The Schlangenberg is the richeft in minerals, and near the river Alay
tothe N.W. branches of hills continue full of minerals, and often com.
poled of porphyry and granite, one of them on the north of the river
Quba rifing to 5,691 Englith feet above the bed of the ttream, That
face of the Altaian chain which runs between the Ob and the Yenifei has
been little explored ; but affords granite, porphyry, jafper, primitive
aid fecondary limeftone, with ferpentine, petro-iilex, flate, mountain
erytal, carnelian, and calcedony; one of the higheit fummits is the
Sabin, near the fource of the Abakan, In general they are bare, the
chief foreits being in the bottoms near the rivers. That portion called
the Sayanfk mountains alfo confitts chiefly of granite, and porphyry,
with feveral mines of talc, or Mufcovy glafs, Branches extend on both
ides of the fea of Baika), likewife prefenting mines of talc, and pro-
nontories of milk-white quartz. Near Irkutfk coal has been found ;
and there are falt fprings in many places. Other products of this rich
ditrict fhall be mentioned in the mineralogy.
The mountains of Nerfhinfk, or Ruffian Daouria, fend branches to-
wards the Selinga and the Amur, The chief heights are towards the
fources of the Onon and Ingoda, where there are precipitous fummits
of granite. A ridge pafling S.W. and N.E. to the fouth of Nerthinfk
between the rivers Onon and Argoon (the laft of which is the real
Amur), is the mott fertile in minerals of all Afiatic Ruffia. Among
the produéts may be named granite, porphyry, jafper, calcedony, car.
nelian, onyx, large fmoaky topazes, beryl, or aqua-marine, the real
topaz, and the jacint. In this opulent diitri& are alfo falt lakes, and
warm {prings with vitriolic pyrites, ores of alum, native fulphur, and
coals, The metals are zinc, iron, copper, and many mines of lead ore,
containing filver and gold. ‘The zoglogy and botany are alike curious
aud intereiting +.
The chain of Stanovi, otherwife called the mountains of Ochotik,
® Pallas,
+ The mountain Adunfhollo, celebrated for minerals, is in:the fouthern extremity of
Auifian Daouria, Dec. Ruf. v. 502, ‘That volume, and che fixth, or laft, may be cons
fulted cor an account of this country,
Z4 ro]
344 RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
is only a continuation of the mountains of Daouria. This part has been
little explored ; but produces nearly the fame fubftances as the forme;
A great fingularity of this ridge is, that fome entire branches confift of
beautiful red and green jafper. That branch which pervades Kamchatka
is little known, being covered with perpetual ice and fnow, but jt
abounds with volcanoes,
This grand chain contains almoft the whole mountains of Siberia, the
remainder of the land on the W. of the Yenifei being level; and to the
E. = that river are only feveral long ranges extending from the §. tg
the N. .
But in the §.W. part of Afiatic Ruffia fome ranges deferve attention
as the lower pact of the Uralian chain, which bends, as before obferved
to the W. above Orenburg.
The claffical range of Caucafus forms a partial limit, between the Ruf.
fian empire and thofe of Turkey and Perfia. Between the Euxine and
the Cafpian the Caucafian chain extends for about 400 B. miles; and
where the chief heights are diftin&ly marked, about five miles in breadth,
but in many places 20 or 30. The fummits are covered with eternal ice
and {now ; and confift as ufual of granite, fucceeded by flate and lime.
ftone. Tn ancient times they produced gold; and there are {till veftiges
of fi'ver, lead, and copper; and it is Enpoted of lapis lazuli, The
vales abound with axeeltinn forett trees *,
Forests. ] Afiatic Ruffia is fo abundant in forefts, that particular
names have not been alligned to fo vaft an extent. On the welt of the
government of Irkucfk an enormous dark and marfhy foreft of retinous
trees extends to the river Khan+. The northern and eattern parts of
Siberia are bare of wood ; the Norway fir not being found farther north
than lat. 60, while the filver fir does not exceed lat. 58°. In Europe,
on the contrary, the Norway fir forms extenfive forefts in Lapmat,
within the Ar&tic circle ¢.
Steprs.] After the forefis, may be confidered the extenfive level
plains, an appearance of nature almoft peculiar to Afia, and fome parts of
European Ruffia: but fomewhat fimilar to the fandy deferts of Africa,
The ftepps are not fo barren of vegetation, being moftly only fandy, with
{cattered patches of thin grafs, und at wide intervals a ftunted thicket,
Between the mouths of the Don and Volga is a ftepp which refembles
the bed of a fea; with fpots of falt, and fa¥ine lakes, being entirely defi.
tute of frefh water and wood §.
On the eaflern fide of the Volga begins an extenfive ftepp, formerly
called that of the Kalmuks, from tribes who ufed to roam there, till they
withdrew from the Ruffian dominions in 1771. To the S. it is bounded
by the Cafpian fea and the lake Ural ; while to the N. it may be regarded
as connected with the ftepp of Iffim; and on the E. may be conlidered
as extending to the river Sarufa; the greater part not belonging to the
Ruffian dominions, but being abandoned to the wandering Kirgufes. This
vatt defert extends about 700 Britith miles from E. to W; at) including
Iffim, nearly as far from N. to S., but on the N. of the Cafpian the
breadth does not exceed 220, A ridge of fandy hills ftretches from near
the termination af the Uralian chain towards the Cafpain; the relt isa
prodigious fan i level, with fea thells and falt pools.
This ftepp of Barabin, N.W. of Omkk, is about 400 miles in length,
and 300 in breadth, containing a few falt lakes, but in general of a good
@ See the laft Travels of Pallas, 2790-4. London 1801, 2 vols, 4to,
+ Dec. Ruff, vii. 103. $ Pennant, A. Z. p. clas,
§ Tooke's View, i. 378,
black
Hack foil, inter
prey to the fan
the remains of p
The vaft {pac
Tomik to the A
vel, with no ay
term is applied t
tween the Aréti
tothe parts bey
Borany.] V
ofthe Ruffian en
that have as yet
rodutions, we
difappointed bec
defcribing their i
and laftly of Pall
rine, have difclo
deferts of Tatar
uexplored, yet
form a very prot
Ruffia in Afi
unequal portions
Donand Wolga
bythe Cafpian f
of this diftri€t is
ad is protected
its botany it gre:
count has alread
pet, beech, and ¢
peach, and the fi;
the apricot, the v
inthe thickets, 4
by thofe exquifit
ualea pontica; t
hurel, the bay, a
of Azof, and the
perfumed and en
Caucafian rofe.
that future natur,
tiful vegetables in
noticed,
By far the larg
panfe of Siberia,
the fnowy furnmi
winters are of gre
none but the har
hazle, which end
cannot exift in a
be traced at the f
asthe banks of t
the northern blaft
to penetrate no
* The poverty of
fometines relemiblen
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.. 345
has been pack foil, interfperfed with forefts of birch *, That of I fimafpires but
former, nrely to the fame quality: and in both are found many tombs, inclofing
confitt of theremains of paftoral chiefs, Tatar or Mongul.
imchatka The vaft {pace between the Ob and the Yenifei, from the north of
» but it Tomfk to the Arétic ocean, is regarded as one itepp, being a prodigious
lel, with no appearance of a mountain, and fcarcely ofa hill, The fame
eria, the em is applied to the wider {pace between the Yenifei and the Lena, be-
nd to the tween the Arétic ocean on the north, and a river Ae Sg lat. 65°; and
the S. to tothe parts beyond the Lena, as far as the river Kolyma, or Covima.
Borany.] When we confider the vaft extent of the Aiiatie provinces.
attention, ofthe Ruffian empire, the fcantinefs of their population, and the few years
obferved, that have as yet elapfed fince the firft attempt to invettigate their natural
rodu@ions, we fhall feel rather furprifed at what has been done, than
the Ruf. difappointed becaufe no greater progrefs has been made in arranging and
wxine and ie(cribing their indigenous vegetables. The labours of Steller and Gmelin,
iles ; and nd lattly of Pallas, under the munificent patronage of the Emprefs Catha-
1 breadth, rine, have difclofed to the view of fcience the wilds of Siberia, and the.
sternal ice eferts of Tatary ; and though many extenfive tra&s continue wholly
and lime. wexplored, yet from the ample {pecimen that has been furveyed, we may
Il vettiges form a very probable conjecture concerning the botany of the remainder.
uli, The Rufia in Afia, with regard to its flora, is divided by nature into two
. unequal portions: the fmaller of ‘thefe is bounded on the weft by the
particular Donand Wolga, on the ealt by the Uralian mountains, and on the fouth
lt of the bythe Cafpian fea, and the Turkith and Perfian frontiers, The climate
f rcfinous of this diftrict is delicious, and the foil fertile: it lopes towards the fouth,
) parts of ad is protected from the northern blafts by lofty mountainous ridges : in
ther north its botany it greatly refembles the province of T'aurida, of which an ac-
1 Europe, count has already been given; the cedar, the cyprefs, the favine, ted juni.
Lapmark, pet, beech, and oak, clothe the fides of the mountains ; the almond, the
peach, and the fig abound in the warm receffes of the rocks ; the quince,
five level the apricot, the willow-leaved pear, and the vine, are of frequent occurrence
¢ parts of inthe thickets, and on the edges of the forefts. The bogs are adorned
f Africa by thofe exquifitely beautiful plants, the rhododendron ponticum, and
ndy, with ualea pontica: the olive, the ftately wide-(preading eaftern plane tree, the
d thicket, hurel, the bay, and lauruttinus, grow in abundance on the fhores of the fea
refembles of Azof, and the Cafpian ; and the romantic vales of the Caucafus are
rely dei« HMM perfumed and enlivened with the fyringa, the jafmine, the lilac, and the
Caucafian rofe. From fo flattering a {pecimen it is not to be doubted
that future naturalifts will gather an abundant harveft of ufeful and beau.
tiful vegetables in thefe diftris, which have hitherto been very inadequately
noticed,
By far the larger part of the RuMfian dominions in Afia is the wide ex.
panfe of Siberia, floping towards the north, and fhut up on the fouth by
the fnowy fummits of the Altaian and other mountainous chains. As the
winters are of great length and feverity throughout the whole of this traét,
none but the hardiett vegetables are found to inhabit it. The oak and the
pfpian the HAMM haze, which endure the rigours of a German winter without fhrinking,
from near cannot exift in a Siberian climate ; dwarfith {pecimens indeed of each may
pe relt is a be traced at the foot of the Altaian mountains, quite acrofs Afia, as far
as the banks of the river Amur, in Daouria, where, being fereened from
n length HM the northern blafts, they refume their natural fize ; but all that attempt
of a good HM io penetrate northward become more diminutive as they advance, and foon
formerly
P, till they
is bounded
regarded
ontidered
ng to the
ies. This
including
* The poverty of defcriptive langnage is frequently to be regretted. A Ruffian ftep
fometimes refcmbles a defert, at other tines a fe waving with luxusiant grafs. 4
black 3 entirely
346
entirely difappear. Even the common heath, and bog myrtle, which eovep
the lower parts of Lapland, venture but a very little way ealtward of th.
Uralian mountains. We are nut however hence to conclude, that the
mighty rivers of Siberia pour their everlafting ftreams through a barren
waite of perpetual {now ; on the contrary, they are bordered with inex.
hauttible forefts of birch, of alder, of lime, of Tatarian maple, of black
and white poplar, and afpen, befides millions of noble trees of the pine
{pecies, fuch as the fir, the Scotch pine, the larch, the {tone pine, ang
yew-leaved fir. Nor during their fhort fummer are they dettitute of
many beautiful plants, that lie concealed under the {new during the greater
part of the year. :
The Siberian plum, and crab, the mountain afh, Tatarian honey-fuckle
Tatarian mulberry, and the Daourian rofe, form thickets of exquilite
beauty, under fhelter of which arife the white flowered peony, the yellow
faranne lily, whofe roots are a favourite food with the Tatarian tribes, and
a multitude of others, a bare lift of whofe names would be neither amufing
nor in{tructive. Only two plants more need be mentioned, the heracleun
panaces, and fibiricum, from the dried {talks of which the natives procurs
a faccharine efflorefcence, whence, by fermentation and dittillation, a coarf
ardent {pirit is made, that enables them to enjoy the fupreme beatitude of
all the northern nations, drunkennefs.
Zoo.ocy.] In the greater part of Afiatic Ruffia the réin-deer, which
extends to the farther eaft, performs the office of the horfe, the cow, and
the fheep ; if we except Kamchatka, where dogs are ufed for carriage,
But the fouth may perhaps be confidered as the native country of that
noble animal the horfe, being there found wild, as well as a {pecies of the
afs*. The terrible urus, or bifon, is yet found in the Caucafian mou.
tains ; and the argali, or wild fheep, is hunted in Siberia. The ibex, or
rock goat, is frequent on the Caucafian precipices; and large tags
occur in the mountains near the Baikal, with the mufk animal; the wild
boar, wolves, foxes, and bears, of various names and defcriptions, are alfo
found. That kind of weazel called the fable affords a valuable traffic by
its furs. Some kinds of hares appear, little known in other regions ; and
the caftor or beaver is an inmate of the Yenifei. The walrus, or large kind
of feal, once termed the fea herfe, is no ftranger to the Arctic fhores; and
the common feal extends to Kamchatka, while the manati, perhaps tle
mermaid of fable, inliabits the {traits of Bering, and the ifles between tle
continents.
The horfes of the Monguls are of fingular heauty, fome being ribbed
like the tyger, and others {potted like the leopard. ‘The boftelh of the
foals are commonly flitted, that they may inhale more air in the courle,
The three great Nomadic nations of the centre of Afia, the Tatars,
Monguls, and Mandfhurs, have no avertion to horfe fleth, which isin
their opinion fuperior to beef ; but it is never eaten raw, as fabled, though
they fometimes dry it in the fun and air, when it will keep for a long time,
and is eaten without farther preparation. ‘Che adon, or ttud, of a noble
Mongul, may contain between three and four thoufand horfes and mares,
The cattle are of a middling fize, and pafs the winter in the iepps or
deferts. As thefe nations ufe the milk of mares, fo they employ tle
crow for draught, a {tring being paffed through a hole made in their noftrl,
Mr. Bell met a beautiful Tatar girl aftride on a cow, attended by two
male fervants.
The beft fables are found near Yakutfk and Nerfhinfk ; but thofe of
* Pounant, A.Z. i. 9. See alfo Dec. Ruff. vi. 309.
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
Kamchatka
Kamchatka are
tocatch or kall 4
times worth ten
teemed, one fk
oe*. The r
blueifh, is found
rivals the ape in
ingenious metho
atree, by which
is watched, a ro
at the other.
by dragging fo
throws it down
detruction. O
fants form bee-
to feize the hone
and flightly atta
latform conve
at his lufcious re
remains fufpend
contrivers.
MINERALOGY
plays many fing
his attention to
mote mines to be
national wealth ¢
The chief gol
ringburg, on the
efice for the m
mines of various
of Catherinburg
computed at 105
little confequenc
difcovered in 17¢
thofe of Kolyvai
fo called by the
1748,
The gold is fo
fubftances, parti
Belides the co
in thofe of Altai.
fembling fern, of
or italactitic cop
jo miles S. of C
malachite+. ‘T°
on a micaceous fe
anew metal calle
But the iron m
particularly thof
mountains ¢. Ye
metals are rare.
* Tooke’s View,
$ Near mount bn
Dr, Pallas difcovered
peat Keafnojart,
ch eover
d of the
hat the
a barren
th inex.
f black
the pine
ine, and
itute of
> Sreater
r-fuckle,
>Xquilite
e yellow
ibe’, and
amufing
racleum
procures
a coarfe
titude of
ry which
SOW, and
carriage,
of that
es of the
An Moun.
Ibex, or
ge tags
the wild
) are alfo
traffic by
Dns 5 and
arge kind
yres3 and
haps the
ween the
ribbed
i of the
P courle,
Tatars,
aich is in
» though
ong time,
a noble
d mares.
Kkepps or
aids the
r noftril,
A by two
thofe of
amchatka
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 444
Kamchatka are the moft numerous, and feveral ftratagems are employed
tocatch or kill the animal, without any mere to the {kin, which is fome-
mes worth ten pounds on the fpot. ‘The black foxes are alfo highly
enna’ one fkin being fometimes fufficient to pay the tribute of a vil-
| e*, The rock or ice fox, generally of a white colour, fometimes
Heit is found in great numbers in the ealtern Archipelago ; this animal
jivals the ape in fly tricks and mifchief. The bear is deitroyed by many
genious methods. ‘The Koriaks contrive a loop and bait hanging from
a by which he is fufpended. In the fouthern mountains his ufual path
; watched, a rope is laid in it, with a heavy bic..k at one end, and a noofe
: the other. When thus entangled by the n: :k, he is either exhaufted
} dragging fo great a weight, or, attacking the block with fury, he
aca it down xe precipice, where it feldom fails to drag him to
letruction. On the European fide of the Uralian chain, where the pea-
fants form bee-hives in tall trees, the bear is deftroyed in his attempt
to{eize the honey, by a trap of boards fufpended from a {trong branch,
ad lightly attached to the entrance of the hive : the animal finding this
latform convenient for his purpofes, undoes the flight faltening to get
at his lufcious repaft, but is inftantly conveyed to a great diftance, and
remains fufpended from the branch, till he be difcovered and fhot by the
8
gneve The mineralogy of Siberia is equally fertile, and dif-
plays many fingular and interelting objects. Peter the Great, who dire&ted
hisattention to every object of utility, was the firft who ordered thefe re-
mote mines to be explored, which have fince fupplied great refources of
mtional wealth and induitry.
The chief gold mines of Siber ia are thofe of Catherinburg, or Ekathe-
ringburg, on the eaft of the Uralian mountains, about lat. 57° where an
efice for the managensent of the mines. was inttituted in 1719, T he
mines of various forts extend to a confiderable diltance on the N. and S.
of Catherinburg ; and the foundries, chiefly for copper and iron, are
computed at 105. But the gold mines of Berefof, in this vicinity, were of
litle confequence till the reign of Elizabeth. The mines of Nerfhinik,
difcovered in 1704, are principally of lead mixed with filver and gold; and
thofe of Kulyvan, chiefly in the Schlangenberg, or Mountain of Serpents,
fo called by the German miners, began to be worked for the crown in
8. ; ° :
The gold is fometimes found native, but generally: mingled with various
fubftances, particularly filver.
Befides the copper mines in the Uralian mountains, there are alfo fome
inthofe of Altai. ‘The moft fingular ore is the dentritic, fomewhat ree
fembling fern, of a pale colour, and perhaps containing filver. Malachite,
or italaétitic copper, is found in the yreateit perfection in a mine about
yo miles S. of Catherinburg ; what ie called the Armenian ttone is a blue
malachite +. ‘The red lead of Siberia is found in the mines of Berefof,
on amicaceous fand ftone. This fubitance, it is well known, has difclofed
anew metal called chrome. a, ta
But the iron mines of Ruffia are of the moft folid and lafting importance,
particularly thofe which fupply the numerous foundries of the Uralian
mountains ¢. Yet Ruflia ful imports quickfilver and zinc ; and the femi-
metals are rare.
* Tooke’s View, iii. 43, + Guthrie, Table of Gems. Bee XV. p, 219.
t Near mount mor, or Nemir, not far from the river Yenifei, in the fouth of Siberia,
Dr, Pallas difcovered a large mafs of native ison, See Dee, Ruff, vi, 228, which places it
pear Krafnojartk,
Rock
548 RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
- Rock falt is chiefly found near the Ilek, not far from Orenburg, Coal
is fcarcely known ; but fulphur, alum, fal ammoniac, vitriol, nitre and
hatron, are found in abundance. - ‘isi
Nor muft the ae of Siberia be omitted, of which there is q at
variety, particularly in the mountain Adunfhollo, near the river Argoo
in the province of Nerfhinfk or Daouria. Common topazes are found it
Adunfhollo, in quadrangular prifms, as is alfo the jacint. The beryl or
aqua-marine is found in Adunfhollo, but in greater perfection in what are
called the gem mines of Mourfintfky, near Catherinburg, along withthe
chryfolite. Red garnets abound near the fea of Baikal ; and a yellowih
white kind was difcovered by Laxman. The green felfpar of Siberia;
a beautiful ftone, by the Ruffians carved into various ornaments, The
Daourian mountains between the Onon and the Argoon alfo produce
elegant onyx.
"Fhe beautiful ftones called the hair of Venus and Thetis, being limpid
rock cryftals, containing capillary fchorl, red or green, are found near
Catherinburg.
The beautiful red and green jafpers of Siberia are from the moft dif.
tant mountains, as already mentioned, and lapis lazuli is found near the
Baikal. The Uralian chain alfo prefents fine white marble s and in the
numerous primitive ranges there are many varieties of granite and por.
hyry.
4 Muprear WATERS. ] Medical waters do not abound in A fiatic Ruff,
There is a fetid fulphureous {pring near Sarepta, on the frontier of Euro
and Afia, and feveral others in Siberia. The baths on the Terek, towards
the Caucafus, are of a middle temperature ; and there are others in the
province of Nerfhinfk ; among the Kalmuks to the fouth of the Altai in
the country fometimes ftyled Soongaria, and in the neighbourhood of th
fea of Baikal. Springs impregnated with naphtha and petroleum occur
near the Cafpian and the Baikal.
But the chief medical waters are thofe in Kamchatka, as defcribed by
Leffeps. The hot baths of Natchikin, not far from a volcano in the fouth
of that peninfula, feemed not to have been traced to their fource, but
they fall in a rapid cafcade about 300 feet above the baths, benevolently
erected by Mr. Kafloff, for the benefit of the Kamchadals, the {tream
being about a foot and a half deep, and fix or feven feet wide. The water
is extremely hot, and of a very penetrating nature. On the wett fide of the
gulph of Penjina is a hot {pring which falls into the Tavatona, being ofa
great fize and emitting clouds of {moke. . ,
ISLES BELONGING TO ASIATIC RUSSIA.
Thefe were formerly divided into the Aleutian, Andrenovian, and Kuri.
lian groups, with the Fox ifles, which extend to the promontory of Alatka
in North America. ‘The Aleutian ifles, on the eaft of Kamchatka, were
multiplied by the early on as they faw them in different directions, #
but are now reduced to only two worth notice, oi, ifle and Copper
ile. The Andrenovian ifles may be regarded as the fame with the [ox
Iflands, being the wettern part of the fame range : if they mutt be diftin.
guifhed, the Andrenovian form a group of {ix or more ifles, about sco’
miles to the S.E. of Bering’s*, It appears that the Fox and Andre.
novian ifles are a kind of elongation of the American Ape et Alatka,
and may more jultly be referved for the defcription of North America,
e Coxe, Ruffiaas Difc, 95 i but be fays the N. E. I
ate
lite Englifh navi
pofition of thefe
and do not merit
The Kurilian i
towards the land
number, of whic!
of thefe ifles are
pine. Mott of 1
the difcoveries of
ies in the fouth .
it would even ap
confufion, defcri
habitants of the ]
chadals ; and in ¢
fron what circun
N the laft centu
this wide empi
hordes of Mongu!
fluence over Tibe
eonsing from t
Japanic feas, to t
which, taking th
geographical, or.,
be computed. fron
of China about |
nearly 2,030 Brit
This empire, t
China Proper ; th
and welt 5 and laft
Thele countries a
diferent in the fo
flances, that it w
their obfervations.
© Coal
re, and
a great
\rgoon,
ound in
ery] of
that are
with the
ellowith
Iberia js
e The
Droduce
r limpid
nd near
noft dif.
near the
d in the
nd por
: Roffia,
Europe
towards
rs in the
Altai in
d of the
occur
ibed by
ie fouth
ce, but
volently
e {tream
e water
e of the
ing ofa
d Kun.
Alatka
ay were
étions,
Copper
he Fox
e diltin.
Dut §co
Andre-
A latka,
merica,
late
RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA. 349
ite Englifh navigators having difpelled many doubts concerning the real
pofition of thefe ifles. Bering’s ifle and Copper ifle are both uninhabited,
and do not merit particular defcription *.
The Kurilian ifles extend from the fouthern promontory of Kamchatka
towards the land of Jeffo and Japan, being fuppofed to be about 20 in
number, of which the largeft are Poro Mufchir and Mokanturu. Several
of thefe ifles are volcanic ; and fome contain forefts of birch, alder, and
ine. Molt of them fwarm with foxes of various colours. Even after
the difcoveries of La Peroufe it is difficult to diftinguifh what particular
ifes in the fouth of this chain are implied by the Ruffian appellations, and
it would even appear that the Ruffian navigators had, with their ufual
confufion, defcribed the fame iflands under different’names. The in-
habitants of the Kurilian ifles feem to be of fimilar origin with the Kam.
chadals; and in the interior of fome is a people called hairy Kurilians,
front what circumitance is not explained,
THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
N the laft century the Chinefe emperors, of the Mandfhur race, extended
this wide empire over many weftern countries, inhabited by wandering
hordes of Monguls, Mandbhurs, and Tatars ; and eftablifhed fuch firm in-
fuence over Tibet, that the Chinefe empire may now be confidered as
extending from thofe parts of the Pacific ocean called the Chinefe and
Japanic ato to the rivers Sarafou and, Sihon in the welt, a {pace of 81°,
which, taking the medial latitude of 30°, will amount to nearly 4,200
geographical, or 4,900 Britifh miles. From N. to S. this vaft empire may
be computed from the Uralian mountains, lat. 50°, to the fouthern. part
of China about lat. 21°, being 29° of latitude, 1,740 geographical, or
nearly 2,030 Britith miles.
This empire, therefore, confiits of three principal divifions ; that of
China Proper ; the territory of the Mandfhurs and Monguls, on the north
and welt ; and laftly the fingular and interefting region of Tibet or Tibbet.
Thefe countries are not ante fo wide and important, but are fo radically
diferent in the form of government, in the manners, and other circum.
fances, that it will be proper to defcribe each apart.
* The Andeenovian ifles have almoft vanifhed from Englith maps and charts, which only
admit the Aleutiau or Fox iflands, and the Ruilian navigators muit have erred grofaly ip
trie obfervations.
(350)
PART I.
CHINA PROPER.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. — Extent. — Boundaries. — Original Po ulation. — Progreffive Cote
graphy. — Hiftorical Epochs and Antiquities.
HIS diftinguifhed region is by the natives ftyled Tchop,
Namss.]’ J Koue, which fignifies the centre of the edith, a
proudly regard other countries as mere fkirts and appendages to-they
own. After the conqueft of the northern part by the defcendants of
Zingis, it was ftyled Cathay, a name loudly celebrated in travels, poet;
and romance ; while the fouthern part was known by the appellation of
Mangi. The origin of the name of China, or Tfin, ieeita uncertain, but
the connexion between this word and the Sine of the ancients appears
imaginary, the country of the Sine being fhewn by Goffellin to be much
farther to the welt. The Mahometan travellers of the ninth century,
publifhed by Renaudot, call this country Sin, but the Perlians pronounce
it Tchin *,
China Proper extends from the great wall in the north to the Chinas
fea in the fouth, about 1,140 geographical, or 1,330 Britifh miles, The
breadth from the fhores of the Pacitic to the frontiers of Tibet may be
computed at 684 geographical, or nearly 1,030 Britifh miles. In fquare
miles the contents have been eftimated at 1,297,999, and in acres a
830,719,360 +. On the eaft and fouth the boundaries are maritime, and
to the north they are marked by the great wall and the defert of Shamo,
the contines with Tibet on the weit feem to be chiefly indicated by an
ideal line, though occafionally more ftrongly marked by mountains and
rivers; particularly according to D’Anville the river Yalon, which falls
into the Kian-ku, the country of Sifan lying between ‘Tibet and China,
on the fouth of the Eluts of Kokonor.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The population of China feems wholly
aboriginal, but the form of the features appears to imply intimate affinity
with the Tatars, Monguls, and Mandfhurs; yet the Chinefe probably
conftitute a fourth grand divifion, not ftriétly derived from either of thele
barbaric races.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The progrellive geography of China, as
known to the weftern nations, is not of ancient date. The oldeft external
relation which we poflefs is that of the two Mahometan travellers ini the
ninth century, who furprife us with accounts of barbarifm and cannibalifm
little to be expected: but the Arabs are fo fond of fables, that implicit
credit may be fafely withheld from feveral paffages. Yet thefe travellers
impart high ideas concerning the Chinefe empire, and mention Canefu,
fuppofed to be Canton, as a city of great trade, while the emperors re.
fided at Camdan, which feems to be the city alfo called Nankin, or the
Southern Court, in contradiltinétion to Pekin or the Northern Court,
This wide empire continued, however, obfcure to the inhabitants of Eu.
rope till the travels of Marco Polo appeared, in the end of the thirteenth
+ Macartney’s Emb, iii, Appem
* Englith Tranflation, Remarks, p. 40,
6 century,
of more genui
difcovery of th
of the Portugu
HisToRICAL
begins with Ya
the throne amov
of Thing t. y
written a book
gation 5 and it i
vnces». ‘Lhe an
reader. The d)
wicked prince,
monarchy is divi
and fuperior in
Tfong, who rei
one of the grea
Mandfhurs to th
theempire ; but
fre northern p
was the laft shi
againt the Mand
ad infurreétions
fr flew his daug
tree, having only
the throne, when
advanced under 1
fareely entered (
declared emperor
princey named C
dynalty, and has
family.
ANTIQUITIES.
mentioned the cot
ae formed by th
ornamented tower
many temples, wl
the pagodas; anc
tiquity.
But the chief r
extendin
* Forfter’s Dife. in
3 lb. i, 266, Se
CHINA PROPER. 351
entury. Oderic of Portenau defcribed his voyage to: China 1318 *,
ind our Sir John Mandeville vifited China about 1340. In the following
century there feems to have been a ftrange and unaccountable intermiflion
of intercour.e and refearch, But after this relapfe of darknefs, the rays
of more genuine and authentic knowledge gradually emerged by the
fifcovery of the Cape of Good Hope, and the fubfequent enterprizes
of the Portuguefe.
HistorIcAL Epocns.] The Chinefe hiftory is faid to commence, in
,clear and conftant narration, about 2,500 years before the birth of
¢hritt. The founder of the monarchy is Fo-Hi; but the regular hiftory
five Cea. begins with Yao +. ‘The dynafties or familics who have fucceffively held
the throne amount to 22, from the firft named Hia, to the prefent houfe
of Ting t- Yu, the firft emperor of the houfe of Hia, is faid to have
d Tchon. yritten a book on agriculture, and to have encouraged canals for irri-
ly a8 they gation 5 and it is alfo afferted that he divided the empire into nine pro-
3 to-their ynces.’ ‘Lhe ancient revolutions of China would little intereft the general
ndants of reader. ‘The dynafties, as ufual, generally terminate in fome weak or
8) poetry, wicked prince, who is dethroned by an able fubje€t. Sometimes the
ellation of nonarchy is divided into that of the fouth, which 1s efteemed the ruling
rtain, but and {uperior inheritance ; and that of the north. The emperor Tai
8 appears Nong, who reigned in the feventh century after Chrift, is regarded as
> be much oreof the greateit princes who have filled the Chinefe throne. The
h century, Mandfhurs to the north of China repeatedly influenced the fucceffion to
pronounce the empire ; but the Monguls under Zingis and his fucceffors feized the
fre northern provinces. Hoaitfing, who began to reign A.D. 1627,
e Chinole was the la(t prince of the Chinefe dynafties. Some unfuccefsful wars
les. The aninft the Mandfhurs, had rendered this emperor melancholy and cruel ;
et may be ad infurreétions arofe, the moft formidable being conduéted by two
In fquare chief, Liand Techang. The*former befieged Pekin, which was ea
N acres at dered by the general difcontent, and the emperor retiring to his garden,
itime, and frit flew his daughter with his fabre, and afterwards hanged himfelf on a
bf Shamo; tree, having only lived 36 years. The ufurper feemed firmly feated on
ated by an the throne, when a prince of the royal family invited the Mandfhurs, who
ntains and advanced under their king Tfong Te. The Mandfhur monarch had
hich falls farely entered China when he died ; and his fon of fix years of age was
and China, declared emperor, the regency being entrufted to his imeley The young
prince, named Chum T’ching, was the tirft emperor of the prefent
8 wholly iynalty, and has been followed by four princes cf the fame Mandfhur
ate affinity hamily.
probably Ayviquities.] Among the remains of Chinefe antiquity may be
or of thefe nentioned the coins of the ancient dynafties, of which arranged cabinets
ue formed by the curious natives. ‘These are alfo feveral pagodas, or
China, as omamented towers, fometimes erected in commemoration of great events ;
ft external Hi many temples, which are low buildings of a different conftruétion from
lers iti the Hite pagodas; and fome triumphal arches, which beaft confiderable ane
annibalifm tiquity.
at implicit But the chief remain of ancient art in China is that ftupendous wall,
P travellers MiMextending acrofs the northern boundary §. ‘This work, which is de-
Canefu, fervedly elteemed among the grandett labours of art, is conducted over
perors ree hefummits of high mountains, fome of which rife to the height of 5,225
in, or the Hit, acrofs the deepeft vales, over wide rivers by means of arches; and iu
Pr a any parts is doubled or trebled to command important pafles, and at th:
ts oF Due
thirteenth
* Forfter's Dife. in the North, p. 147, + Du Halde, iii.7. Have, 1756. ato.
21k. i, 266, &e, § Sic G. Staunton, ii, 360, Bvo,
diftance
f . Appen.
century,
CHINA PROPER.
352
diftanee of almoft every hundred yards is a tower or maffy battion, ‘Uy,
extent is computed at 1,500 miles; but in-fome parts of fmaller danger
it is not equally {trong nor complete, and towards the N.W. is only g
rampart of earth. For the precife height and dimenfions of this amazin
fortification the reader is referred to the work already quoted, whence i
appears that near Koopeko the wall is 25 feet in height, and at the top
about fifteen feet thick: fome of the towers, which are fquare, are 48
feet high and about 50 feet wide. The ftone employed in tie
foundations, angles, &c. is a pare rey granite; but the preates
part confifts of blueifh bricks, and the mortar is remarkably pure
and white.
Sir George Staunton confiders the era of this a barrier as ab(y
lutely afcertained, and he afferts that it has exi ed for two thoufind
years. Mr. Bell, who refided for fome time in China, and whofe travel
are defervedly efteemed for the accuracy of their intelligence, aTures ys
that this wall was built about 600 years ago (that is, about the yea
1160), by one of the emperors, to prevent the frequent incurfions 0
the Monguls, whofe numerous cavalry ufed to ravage the province,
and efcape before an army could be affembled to oppofe them. —Renaudg
obferves, that no oriental geographer, above 300 years in antiquity, men
tions this wall +: and it is furprifing that it fhould have efcaped Mareg
Polo; who, fuppofing that he had entered China by a different route
can hardly be conceived, during his long refidence in the north of Chin
and in the country of the Monguls, to have remained ignorant of {
ftupendous a work. Amidft thefe difficulties, perhaps it may be coy
jeCtured that fimilar modes of defence had been adopted in different ages
and that the ancient rude barrier i lt into decay, was replaced
perhaps after the invafion of Zingis, by the pages ere€tion, which
even from the ftate of its prefervation, can {carcely afpire to my
antiquity.
fy is fuppofed to
Vary fubordinate i
pwers of Fo the m
qled them Atheif
Since the fifteent
tem, Which ack
quki, feeming to
gent philofopher
Atheifm ; nor Is it
nih grofs fupertt
Hurditye But ft
(hinefe are fo far |
we of Polytheif
nnute acts of evil
cept the Bonzes a
tich is the fame wi
hinefe temples are
ynth known in the
GoVERNMENT. ]
tal. The emper
rare, as he is tau
wflavess The ftab
mute forms and cuf
shittory. It arifes
ut, the admiffion a
lat knowledge is pow
rgular education, a
Df thefe officers, wl
ie Portuguefe, ther
fe prime minifter.
tudy, the practice
ken by exterior €
cidentand force, t
1 fo vaft an emp
10,000,000, perhap
redom; yet the ide
the rod, a paterna
it degrading {pe
eateft tendernefs to
ped by the empero
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Ecclefiafiical Geography. — Government.— Laws.— Populaind
— Colonies. — Army. — Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance 4
Relations.
ide th ‘J
RELIGION. ] fr Nehari to Du Halde, the ancient Chine
worfhipped a fupreme being, whom they ttyl
Chang Ti, or Tien, which 1s faid to imply the fpirit which prefides org
the heavens, but in the opinion of others is only the vifible firmament
They alfo worfhipped fubaltern fpirits, who prefided over kingdom
provinces, cities, rivers, and mountains. Under this fyitem, whid
correfponds with what is called Shamanifin, facrifices were offered on th
fummits of ‘hills.
About A.D. 65 the feét of Fo was introduced into China from His
doftan. ‘The name was derived from the idol Fo, (fuppofed to be tH
Boodh of Hindoftan), and the chief tenets are thofe of the Hit
doos, among which is the metempfycofis, or tranfition of fouls fro
one animal to another. The priefls are denominated Bonzes, a
# Travels, ii, 422. 6YO, p Ut fupra, 137.
The governors of,
tellions are not ud
¢ Chinefe govern
ry than in the 7
eral eafe and hap
mn of the governing
lng mankind.
Laws.) The Cl
the reigning dyng
nits of duty.
PoruLATION. ]
derable debate. Pa
* Pauw, Recherches Ph
t See Staunion’s trandli
The
7 anger
3 only g
mazin
hence it
the top
y are 48
In the
Lreatet
Ly pure
as ablo
thoufand
fe travels
ures us *
the yea
rfions 0
Tovinces
Renaudot
ity, men
d Maree
nt route,
of Ching
ant of fy
y be con
ent ages
replaced
Ny which
to mu
Populating
tance
t Chinef
ey ftyle
Pfides ord
irmament
kingdom
» whic
red on th
rom Hit
to be th
the Hi
ouls fro
nzes) a
am
-
CHINA PROPER. 353
fois fuppofed to be gratified by the favour fhewn to his fervants.
Yany {ubordinate idols are admitted ; but as the Jefuits found the fol-
wets of Fo the moft adverfe to Chriftianity, they have abfurdly enough
gled them Atheifts. ‘
since the fifteenth century many Chinefe literati have embraced a new
titem, which ve named an univerfal principle, under the name of
miki, feeming to correfpond with the foul of the world of fome
wient philofophers. This opinion may indeed deferve the name of
Aeifm ; nor is it unufual to find ingenious reafoners fo far difgufted
nih grofs fuperftitions as to fall into the oppofite extreme of
ifurdity. But fuch opinions are confined to very few; and the
(linefe are fo far from being atheifts that they are in the oppofite ex-
ne of Polytheif{m, believing evenin petty demons who delight in
hinute acts Of evil, or good. There is properly no order of priefts,
gept the Bonzes of the fect of Fo; this feét and that of Lao Kian,
tich is the fame with that of the T’ai See, admit of monafteries. The
hinefe temples are always open, nor is there any fubdivifion of the
oith known in the country *.
GovERNMENT.] The government of China is well known to be patri-
hal, The emperor is indeed abfolute ; but the examples of tyranny
rate, as he is sae te to regard his people as his children, and not as
w(aves. ‘The ftability of the government, in all its effential, and even
inute forms and cuftoms, juftly aftonifhes thofe who are the moft verfed
shitory. It arifes from a circumitance unknown in any other govern.
it, the admiffion and practice of the page afferted by lord Bacon
lat knowledge is power. For all the officers of government pafs through
regular education, and a progrefs of rank, which are held indifpenfable.
Nf thefe officers, who have been called mandarins, or commanders, by
ty Portaguefe, there are nine claffes, from the judge of the village to
te prime minifter. The profeffion requiring a long and fevere courfe
tudy, the praétice of government remains, like that of medicine, un-
en by exterior events; and while the imperial throne is fubje& to
ident and force, the remainder of the machine purfues its ufual circle.
1 fo yaft an empire, with a computed population of more than
40,000,000, perhaps the ftability of the ftate is incompatible with much
redom; yet the ideas of an European are fhocked by the frequent ufe
the rod, a paternal punifhment which would in his eyes appear the
ot degrading f{pecies of flavery. The foldiers, however, thew the
ateft tendernefs to the people, and every fentence of death muft be
med by the emperor.
The governors of the provinces have great and abfolute power, yet
illions are not unfrequent. Bribery is alfo an univerfal vice’: and
Chinefe government, like many others, is more fair in the
ry than in the prattice. Yet *..e amazing population, and the
weral eafe and happinefs of the people, evince that the adminiftra-
n of the governinent muft be more beneficial than any yet known
jong mankind.
Laws.) The Chinefe laws are ancient, but numerous +, and ediés
the reigning dynafty have reftrained the mandarins within ftricter
nits of duty.
PopuLATION. ] The population of China has been’a topic of con-
erable debate. Pauw, a bold and decifive afferter, fuppofes that the
* Pauw, Recherches Philofophiques fur les iens et les Chinois, tom. ii. 217.
t See Staunion’s tranflation of the Ta Tfing Leu Lee, or Laws of Chine.
Aa population
«
354 CHINA PROPER.
population is exaggerated when it is computed at 82,000,000%, 7
recent Englifh embafly was aftonifhed at the excefs of Population ; an
Sir George Staunton has publithed the following table, from the informs,
- tion of a mandarin of high rank, who had every opportunity of ex
knowledge.
TABLE of the population and extent of China Proper, within. the great wal]
Taken in round numbers from the Ratements of Chow-la-Zhin, ny,
- Provinces. Population. Sq. miles.
38,000,000 58,949
32,000,000 92,961
19,000,000 725176
21,000,000 39150
Pe-che-lee -
Kiang-nan, two provinces
Kiang-See - -
Tche-kiang -~ -
aoe - - | 15,000,000 532480 5
ou- ‘ 14,000,000
Houten $ Hou-quang { ‘ oemnecs 1449770 | 923652,80
on-an - .s 2.53000,000 65,104 41,666,564
ShaneTung -— - 243000,000 652104 | 41,666,560
Shan-fee . 27,000,000 551268 359371 51
Shen-fee : 18,000,000 , 8 8
Kun-fou 12,000,000 \ 54:00 985565512
Se-chuen - 27,000,000 166,800 | 106,752,004
Canton 21,000,000 793456 50585 1,84
guane-e 10,000,000 78,250 $0,080,004
u-nan 8,000,000 107,969
Kfei-cheou 9:000,000 649554
|
|
nee
|
|
333,000,000 |152975999
How far this table may deferve implicit credit, may be doubted }
thofe who know the difficulty of fuch refearches, even in the mof
enlightened countries of Europe. It is more probable from ¢
calculations in Neuhoff’s travels, that the population is abou
230,000,000.
As the Chinefe laws permit no native to leave his country, there can
no colonies properly fo called t.
The army has been computed at 1,000,000 of infantry, and 800,00
cavalry ; and the revenues at about thirty-fix millions and a half
Tahels, or ounces of filver, or about nine millions {terling; but
rice and other grain are alfo paid in kind, it may be difficult to efi
mate the precife amount or relative value compared with Europe
money §.
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] The political importan
and relations of China may be faid to be concentrated in itfelf, as noe
* Recherches, i. 78, t This identic repetition muft be erroneous.
2 Yet the number of Chinefe at Batavia, aud cther fituations in the Oriental
f° » many of whom pafs as traders to and from their country, thews that theie vss
ttle regarded.
§ Sir Geo, Staunton, iii, 900, eftimates the revenue at 200,000,000 ounces of fir
which he fays is equal to 66,000,0001, fterling ; but, valuing the ounce of filver at five f
lings, the amount is 50,000,000}.
amp
ample is kn
re one Eu
furopean tt
cbttacle to
would be ne
yoke might
ment perfua
Inglifh mig
the Ruffian’
Perfia.
Manners anc
filies. — C
— Manuf
fulnefs may
continue for
CHINA PROPER. 355
0,000". The MIM anple is known of alliance with any other ftate. It has been fuppofed
>pulation ; and MMM hat one European hip would deftroy the Chinefe navy, and that 10,000
ma the informs, furopean troops might overrun the empire. Yet its very extent is an
tunity of cxad MM tacle to foreign conqueft, and perhaps not lefs than 100,000 foldiers
would be neceflary to maintain the quiet fubjugation : fe that any foreign
oke might prove of very fhort continuance. Were the Chinefe govern-
} the great wall MMM ‘ont periuaded of the utility of external,relations, an alliance with the
v-la-Zhin, Tnglifh might be adopted, as a proteétion again{t maritime outrage, while
the Ruffian power might be divided by connections with the fovereigns of
Perfia.
sat ne
Acres,
CHAPTER III.
nae
—| ay
379727,360 CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
599495,070 : P :
46,192, Manners and Cufloms. — Language.— Literature. — Education. — Univer-
25656,00 fics. —Cities and Towns. — Edifices. —Roads.— Inland Navigation.
349227,209 —Manufadures and Commerce.
923652,80 HE Chinefe being a people in the
41 666,56 higheft ftate of civilization, their
41,666,560 manners and cuftoms ry 0 require a long defcription, efpecially as they
35»371,5.0mmm are extremely different from thofe of other nations. The limits of this
8, «6 work will only admit a few hints. In vifiting the fea ports of China,
995 05pIa foreigners have been commonly impreffed with the idea of fraud and
106,752,coqiimmm dihonefty ; but it is to be fuppofed that thefe bad qualities are not fo
51085 1,849 parent where there are fewer temptations. The indolence of the upper
$0,080,004 cafes, who are even fed by their fervants, and the naftinefs of the lower,
69,100,16 who eat almaft every kind of animal, in whatever way it may have died,
415314,s6qmm are alfo ftriking defeéts, though the latter may be occafioned by dire ne-
city in fo populousa country. To the fame caufe may be imputed the
830,719,3¢ axpofition of infants. On the other hand the charaéter of the Chinefe
is mild and tranquil, and univerfal affability is very rarely interrupted by
be doubted balm the fighteft tinéture of harfhnefs or paffion. Thefe qualities may be
ven in the mo partly imputed to the vigilant eye of the patriarchal government, and
bable from th ly to ftri& abftinence from heating foods and intoxicating liquors.
ation is abou Phe general drink is tea, of which a large veffel is prepared in the
norning forthe occafional ufe of the family during the day. Marris es are
try, there can b@i conducted folely by the will of the parents, and poligamy is allowed.
The bride is purchafed by a prefent to her parents, and is never feen by
ry, and 800,cogimmm her hufband till after the ceremony. It is not permitted to bury in cities
s and a half om ortowns, and the fepulchres are commonly on barren hills and mountains,
{terling ; but where there is no chance that agriculture will difturb the bones of the
difficult to eli dead. The colour of mourning is white, that perfonal negleét or forget-
with Huropagiil fulnefs may appear in its fqualor ; and it ought on folemn occafions to
continue for three years, but feldom exceeds twenty-feven months *, The
itical importancgl walls of the houfes are fometimes of brick, or of hardened clay, but more
itfelf, as noe commonly of wood; and they generally confit only of a ground floor,
though in thofe of merchants there be fometimes a fecond ftory, which
nft be erroneous. forms the warehoufe. ‘I'he houfes are ornamented with columns, and
the ne eyes leries, but the articles of furniture are few. The drefs is long
+ ot. with large fleeves, and a flowing girdle of filk. ‘The fhirt and drawers
100 ounces of fi vary according to the feafons, and in winter the ufe of furs is general, from
of filver at five fh
MayNERS AND GUSTOMS. ]
* Du Halde, iii. 146.
amp Aaz
356 CHINA PROPER.
F i head is covered wit] ‘
he fheep to that of the ermine. The 1 with g
{reall hat ‘arthe rt of a funnel, but this varies aang the Uiperiog claf. i he aie
fes, whofe rank is aplsch sae by ig a Lg sie ae rca in seri d {pace of
ding to the quality. e dre tn
Paci anon the audience given to Lord hig ae that of a empe. Pinkin which
ror was only diftinguifhed Me one large pearl im . ee ; © chief tae oho
amufements of the Chinefe feem to be dramatic exhibitions, re works, nye The wal
in which they excel all other nations, and feats of deception and ise ,
sac ] The language is efteemed the moft fingular on the face ieee baer
of the globe. Almoft every fyllable conftitutes a word, oy there are # fyled, pago d
{carcely 1,500 diitin& founds; yet in the written hanguage there are at a ‘te they fe
leat 80,000 characters, or different forms of letters, fo that pe found ; p aah 5, Heth
may have about so fenfes*. The leading chara¢ters are renominated wn ‘. eanadi
keys, which are not of difficult thant hae eee sa rey eke gs
been hieroglyphical ; but afterwar ae ee rf flan t
Se hrtegeeryeges ape
irtue, which in Latin implies ftrength, among the Nes lta wh
caer sheaniie prevalence of knowledge in China excluding mere Rrength 4 i be Cent
vy 1 io 1 im. , 4%
ip veetoay: Vie “feheols of education are numerous, but the chil. iY ye - ah
dren of the poor are chiefly taught to follow the bufinefs of _ fathers, ithe x mi “
In a Chinefe treatife of education publifhed by Du Halde, the ag: ‘ volethons in E
are recommended as the chief 7. I. itd hey sing Bir M & apap
: : uit ehty, Concord. . eet
slows to iy bens to parent vet boty, baroy wie Mr blr
lations, affection for gon) hag fincerity with friends, cotta with The pee lhige-c
regard to the poor and un appy: 4: The a — ager ak i Eotheen woe OF
igious rites, mufic, archery, horfema ’ sings 4 ot aes
pent ‘dane arsed A certainly more ufeful than the acquifition of dead —o yr ‘
" aos ‘AND towns. ] The chief cities of China are Pekin and Nankip, Ae cigs
orthe northern and fouthern courts, the former being a , soa il lage
or city of the Chan, in writings of the middle ages, the capital of Cath sian onl
fay,.as Nankin was of Mangi. Pekin occupies a large — Brom mlytheif " he
but the treets are wide, and the houfes feldom exceed ‘les, nd th f ingular, and is d
length of what is called the Tatar city is about four mi * and the fub ap Pekin
coin are confidergble +. By ar bt Sounnub ana ¥ . ig b, Roans.] The po
Perks inde caeonitece satan oes euleansote tom ititoomeann Aorieiiae We
fes indeed are neither large nor numerous ; but i tons "hi
ies generations with all their wives -~ any en = - head bli lt
tl at in common, and ‘one room contains _ . isperfeetly level
fefs of the houfes and att ce = Rota i see wl get “ Pick bette ; 3
of the vilitor, At Pekin the grand exa rds the chief oficelilmi from fix to fixte
the higheft degree in literature, or in other words hi
raisanterten Exceffive wealth or poverty feem equally =_— . “se .
there is no right of primogeniture, and nok .cditaiy dignity; an a ti; P
properly but three clafles of on in pee pe of — — ros " LAND KAVIOATiC
the mandarins are felected ; cultivators of t a te ‘onfiderable ftreogtiiim! Wonder of other
luding merchants {. The walls of this capital are of confi AMEBoky bend the;
tt htchaofe ; and tlie nine gates of no inelegant cot get ie ¥ a ali
police and vigilance are obferved, and the ftreets are crowded with p hed by the imperial
J pif $Tb.ti, 297. see ye the eno
Saunton, ii. ° 3 : tur t *h iti
t Iu, i, 090, But che mllary cou Be caguaded to 0 fourth seth, sits pati
with 4
mr claf.:
ified in
nd uni.
- empe.
1e chief
works,
m and
the face
lere are
> are at
y found
minated fim
18 Origis
lone was
as ; thus
ifies filial
Arength
the chil.
r fathers,
following
ly, prue
laudable
y with ree
ercy with
rowledge,
and ac.
Dn of dead
1 Nankin,
Cambula,
of Cath
f ground;
T
ry.
id the fub
ecent em
CHINA _ PROPER. ~ 5SF
sand carriages. The grandeft edifice is the imperial palace, which
quits of many pi€turefque buildings, difperfed over a wide and greatly
jyerlified {pace of ground, fo as to prefent the appearance of enchant-
ment.
Nankin, which was the refidence of the court till the fifteenth century,
yayet moreextenfive city than Pekin, and is reputed the largeft in the
npiree ‘The walls are faid to be about 17 Britifh miles in circumfe-
Qe,
the chief edifices are the gates, with a few temples ; and a celebrated
over clothed: with porcelain, about 200 feet in height. Such towers
yere flyled_ pagodas by the Portuguefe, who fuppofed them to be tem-
ks; but they feem to have been chiefly ereéted as memorials,” or as
gmaments, like the Grecian and Roman columns.
Tothe European reader one of the moft iuterefting cities is Canton,
stich is faid to contain a million and a iualf of inhabitants; numerous
itmilies refiding in barks onthe river. ‘The European fa€tories with their
ytional flags, are no {mall ornaments to this city. The chicf export is that
iftea,of which it is faid that about 13,000,000 of pounds weight are
fumed by Great Britain and her dependencies, and about 5,000,000
by the reli of Europe. The imports from England, chiefly woollens,
th lead, tin, furs, and other articles, are fuppofed to exceed a million 3
dthe exports a million and a half, befides the trade between China and
wt polleflions in Hindoftan, Other nations carry to Canton the value
{about 200,000l. and return with articles to the vahee of about 602,000l.
bo that the balance in favour of China may be computed ata million
pling.
The other large cities of China are almoft innumerable ; and many of
w villares are of a furprifing fize. Of the cities, Singan is by fome
-qalto Pekin. In general the plan and fortifications are fimilar ;
Bi var garrifon is carefully maintained. :
Eesice y The mott itriking and peculiar edifices in China are the
ygodas or tower's, already mentioned, which fometimes rife to the height
nine ftories, of more than twenty feeteach. ‘The temples, on the con-
y, are commonly low buildings, always open to the devout worfhippers
polytheiim, The whole ftyle of Chinefe architeGure is well known to
ingular, and is difplayed with the greateit {plendour in the imperial
ce at Pekin.
Roaps.] The roads are generally kept in excellent order, with con-
int bridges. ‘That near the capital is thus defcribed by Sir George
uton; ** his road forms a magnificent avenue to Pekin for perfone
dcommodities bound for that capital, from the eait and from the fouth.
isperfectly level; the centre, to the width of about twenty feet, is
with flags of granite, brought from a confiderable diftance, and of
ive from fix to fixteen feet in ength, and about four feet broad. On
hfide of this granite pavement is a road unpaved, wide enough for
ages to crofs upon it. ‘The road was bordered in many places with
4,"
XLAND NAVIGATION. ] The canals of China have long excited the envy
i wonder of other nations. As the two grand rivers Hoanho and
ku bend their courfe from weft to eaft, the chief objeét was to inter-
A the empire from north to fouth; which was in great meafure accom-
hed by the imperial canal. This wonderful work, which in utility and
our exceeds the enormous wall, is faid to have been begun in the tenth
tury of the Chriftian cra, 30,000 men having been employed for 43
in its completion, :
Aa 3 “« This
358 CHINA PROPER.
« This great work differs much from the canals of Europe, whic, an
generally protracted in ftraight lines, within narrow bounds, and withone
acurrent ; whereas that of China is winding often in its courfe, of unequal
and fometimes confiderable width, and its waters are feldom ftagnant.
‘The ground which intervened between this bed of the artificial river
and that of the Eu-ho, was cut down to the depth of about 30 feet in
order to permit the waters of the former to flow with a iid current ined
the latter. Their defcent is afterwards checked occa 1onally by flood.
set thrown acrofs the canal, wherever they were judged to be necef :
his canal has no locks like thofe of Europe. The flood-gates are fimple
in their conftruction, eafily managed, and kept in repair at a trifling ex
pence. They confift merely of a few planks let down feparately one upor
another, by grooves cut into the fides of the two folid abutmenteor piert
of ftone that project, one from each bank, leaving a {pace in the middle
juft wide enough to admit a paffage for the largeft veflels employed upot
the canal. As few parts of it are entirely level, the ufe of thefe floog
gates, affifted by others cut through its banks, is to regulate the quantit
of water in the canal. Some {kill is required to be exerted, in Order t¢
direct the barges through them without accident. For this purpofe
great oar projects from the bow of the veffel, by which one of the cre
conducts her with the greateft nicety. Men are alfo ftatipned on ¢
pier, with fenders made of fkins ftuffed with hair, to prevent the ef
of the veffels ftriking immediately again{t the ftone, in their quick pathy
through the gates.
‘¢ Light bridges of timber are thrown acrofs thofe piers, which are ex
withdrawn whenever veffels are about to pafs underneath. The flood.pa ,
are only opened at certain ftated hours, when all the veffels colle@ed re
them in the interval pafs through, on paying a {mall toll, appropriated
the purpofe of keeping in repair the flood-gates and banks of theca
The lofs of water occafioned by the opening of the flood-gate is not y
confiderable, and is foon fupplied by ftreams conduéted into the canal fr
the adjacent country on both fides *,"”
The fame author defcribes this canal as- ee, gat Lin-fin-choo, wh
it joins the river Eu-ho, and extending to Han-choo-foo, in an irregul
line of about 500 miles ; where it joins the Hoan-ho, or Yellow Rirg
till it is about three quarters of a mile in breadth. In the fouth the ri
Kan-Kian, which runs from S. W. to N. E. fupplies a very confident
part of the navigation.
To enumerate the other canals of China would be infinite, as there j
large canal in every province, with branches leading to mot of the to
sak villages.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. ] The manufactures of China
fo multifarious as to embrace almott every article of induftry. The
noted manufacture is that of porcelain, and is followed in trade by th
of filk, cotton, paper, &c. The porcelain of China has been celebrat
from remote ages, and is chiefly prepared from a pure white clay call
kaolin ; while the petunfi is underftood to be a decayed felfpar.
writers add foap rock, and gypfum +.
The internal commerce of Chinais immenfe, but the external tradd
unimportant, confidering the vaftnefs of the empire ; a fcanty intercou
exifts with Ruffia and Japan: but the,chief export is that of tea, whi
is fent to England to the value of mbout one million yearly.
* Sir G, Staunton, iii. 204, + Ib. ili. 800,
&
Glmate and Se
Riverss—e.
Mineralogy.
CLIMATE AND
part of the emp’
sorthern part ot
European winte
Tatarian, or rat
that the average
during the winte
the freezing’ poi
and feafons mutt
FACE OF THE
fied; and thou
with numerous
mountains and ot
has however conf
whence the nati:
introducing then
nce of the
br ile of the b
The foil is va
carried to the ut
anual example o
portant province
preffes his ideas ¢
“Where the
tothe level furfe
terraces one abo
fone. By this
of a mountain co
not confined to
pian {weet pota
inary plants are
the mountain, 4
fucceffively to the
In {pots too rugg
amelia fefanqua,
with fuccefs,
“The colle&io
Chinefe, that a
children, incapabl
the ftreets, public
before them, and
the dung of ani
which are
id withone
unequal,
gnant,
icial river,
30 feet, in
Irrent into
by flood.
neceffary,
3 are fimple}
trifling eX.
ly one Upor
enteor pierg
i middle
oyed upot
hele fend
he quantit
» in order t4
8 purpofe
of he cre
ned on ea
nt the effed
uick paflag
ich are eaf
e flood.patd
olleged ne
propriated
of the ca
te is not v
he canal fro
«choo, whe
n an irregul
ellow Rid
buth the ri
y confiderah
, as there j
of the to
ade by th
en celebrat
e clay cil
Ifpar. So
ernal trade
ty interco
YJ tea, whi
CHINA PROPER.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.—— Face of the Country. — Soil and Agriculture. —
Rivers. —« Lakes. —- Mountains. —- Forefts.—- Botany.—~ Zoology.—
Mineralogy.— Mineral Waters. — Natural Curiofities.
HE European intercourfe with China
CuMATE AND SEASONS. ] T being chiefly confined to the fouthern
at of the empire, the climate is generally confidered as hot, whereas the
sorthern part of this extenfive country is liable to all the rigours of the
European winter*, At Pekin fuch is the effect of the great range of
Tatarian, or rather Manfhurian mountains covered with perpetual {now,
that the average degree of the thermometer is under 20° in the night
during the winter months ; and even in the day it is confiderably below
the freezing point. In fo wide an empire, fuch a diverfity of climate
nd feafons muft occur that no general defcription can fuffice.
FAcE OF THE COUNTRY.] The face of the country is infinitely diver-
fied; and though in a general view it be flat and fertile, and interfe&ted
with numerous large rivers and canals, yet there are chains of granitic
mountains and other diftriéts of a wild and favage nature. Cultivation
has however confiderably reduced the number and extent of fuch features,
whence the natives feek to diverfify the famenefs of improvement by
introducing them in miniature into their gardens. In general the ap-
nce of the country is rendered fingularly picturefque by the pecu-
iar tyle of the buildings, and uncommon form of the trees and plants.
The foil is various, and agriculture by the account of all travellers is
arried to the utmoft degree of perfeétion. The emperor himfelf fets an
anual example of the veneration due to agriculture, the firft and moft im-
portant province of human indultry. Sir George Staunton thus ex-
prefles his ideas of Chinefe agriculture + :
“Where the face of the hill or mountain is not nearly perpendicular
tothe level furface of the earth, the flope is converted inte a number of
terraces one above anothe: each of which is fupported by mounds of
fone. By this management it is not uncommon to fee the whole face
of a mountain completely cultivated to the fummit. Thefe ftages are
tot confined to the culture of any particular vegetable. Pulfe, grain,
ms, {weet potatoes, Onions, carrots; turnips, and a variety of other cu-
her plants are produced upon them. A refervoir is funk in the top of
the mountain. The rain-water collected in it is conveyed by channels
fucceflively to the different terraces, placed upon the mountain’s fides,
In {pots too rugged, barren, fteep, or high for raifing other plants, the
amelia fefanque, and divers firs, particularly the larch, are cultivated
with fuccefs.
“The colle&tion of manure is an object of fo much attention with the
Chinefe, that a prodigious number of old men and women, as well as of
children, incapable of much other labour, are conftantly employed about
the ftreets, public roads, banks of canals, and rivera, with baskets tied
before them, and holding in their hands {mall wooden rakes to pick u
the dung of animals and offals of any kind that may anfwer the purpote
* Staunton, ili. 157. + lbid, iii, 806,
Aas of
360 CHINA PROPER.
of manure ; but above all others, except the dung of fowls, the Chinef
farmers prefer night foil. This manure is mixed {paringly with a portion
of ftiff loamy earth, and formed into cakes dried afterwards in the fy,
In this ftate it fometimes becomes an objeé&t of commerce, and is fold t,
farmers, who never employ it in a compact ftate. ‘Their firlt care ig t
conftrué large cifterns for containing, befides thofe cakes and dung of
every kind, all forts of vegetable matter, as leaves or roots or flems
plants, mud from the canals, and offals of animals, even to the thavingg
collected by the barbers. With all thefe they mix as much animal wate,
_ as can be collected, or of common water as will dilute the whole ; and in
this tate, generally in the aét of putrid fermentation, they apply it to the
ploughed or broken earth.
‘«‘ The quantity of manure thus collected muft however be ftill inade.
quate to that of the cultured ground, which bears fo vaft a proportion tg
the whole furface of the country. It is referved therefore in the firt i,
{tance, for the purpofe of procuring a quick fucceffion of culinary’ vege,
tables, and for forcing the production of flowers and fruit. Among the
yegetables raifed molt generally, and in the greateft quantities, is a kinj
of cabbage, called by the Chinefe pe-tfai, or white herb, which is of al
delicate tafte, fomewhat refembling cos-lettuce, and is much relifhed ip
China by foreigners as well as natives, This vegetable, and rice, together
with a relith of garlic or of onions, in room of animal food, and followed
by alittle iafufion of coarfe tea, ferve often as a meal for a Chinefe peafant
or mechanic. The Chinefe hufbandman always fteeps the feeds he in,
tends to fow in liquid manure, until they fwell, and germination begin,
to appear; which experience, he fays, has taught him to have the od
of hattening the growth of plants, as well as ‘of defending them againt
the infe&ts Ridden in the ground in which the feeds were fown.
s The great objet of Chinefe argriculture, the prodution of grain, ig
enerally itanee with little manure, and without letting the land li
Ice: Irrigation is practifed to a very great extent. ‘The hufbandry
is fingularly neat, and not a weed is to be feen.””
Rivers.] In defcribing the rivers of this ag empire two are well
known to deferve particular attention, namely, the Hoan-ho and th
Kian-ku. The fources of the firft, alfo called the Yellow River, from
the quantity of mud which it devolves, are two. lakes, fituated amongf
the mountains of that part of Tiatary known by the name of Ko.
kenor, They lie about the 35° of north latitude, and 19° of longitude,
to the weftward of Pekin, bemg, according to Arrow{mith’s map o
Afia, about 97° eaft from Greenwich *. This prodigious river is ex.
tremely winding and devious in its courfe, purfuing a N.E, direction
to about the 42° of north latitude, and after running due eaft it fuddenly
bends fouth to a latitude nearly parallel to its fource, and purfues
an eafterly direétion till it be loft in the Yellow Sea. Its comparative
courfe may be eftimated at about 1,800 Britifh miles ; or, according tothe
late embalty, 2,150. At about 70 miles from the fea where it is croffed
by the imperial canal, the breadth is little more than a mile, and the
depth only about nine or ten feet ; but the velocity equals feven or eight
mailes in the hour +. .
' The Kian-ku rifes in the vicinity of the fources of the Hoan-ho; but
according to the receiyed accounts and maps about 200 miles farther to
the weft, and winds nearly as far to the fouth as the Hoan-ho does to the
north. After wafhing the walls of Nankin it enters the fea about 1%
* Staunton, iii, 292, + Ib, iii, 294,
miles to the
names throug
Porticho, or
thefe two riv
they certainl
zons in Sout
extend half tl
etimated at 4
Chinefe rivers
admoft clofe
each other to
fnally difcha
land of abou
fertilize.
To thefe g
would be inf
this wide emp
Lakes. }
Halde inform
Hou-quang, i
hou, in the pr
and is formed
There is alfo
Tai-how. So
lake near the i
rafts, conftrud
or raft are ten
plunge into t
of ith with wh
to be fo well t
their throats, t
except what tl
ment and food.
light make, an
birds, by the n
Mountains
no general and
ample defcripti
with mines of 1
ply medicinal h
of Yunnan, Ke
greatly to impe
mountains on t
full of high mo
of Shani. Th
publifhed of tl
map of Afia, c
cerning the cou
pears that a ci
running fouth 1
and W., interfe
the enormous cl
ndges appear tc
_ Forests.) §
forelts remain, |
CHINA PROPER. 361
niles to the fouth of the Hoansho, The Kian-ku is known by various
. ae names through its long progrefs ; and near its fource is called by the Eluts
n 5 .
in the fun Porticho, or Petchow ; the courfe is about equal to that of the former,
| is fold to thefe two rivers being confidered as the longeft on the face of the globe 4
care is to they certainly equal, if they do not exceed, the famous river of the Ama-
d dung of zons in South America, and the majeftic courfe of the Ganges does not
or ftems of ANN extend half the length. Inthe late embafly the length of the Kian-ku is
he thavings etimated at about 2,200 miles; and it is obferved that thefe two great
imal au Chinefe rivers, taking their fource from the fame mountains, and pafling
dle 5 and in dmoft clufe to each other in a particular fpot, afterwards feparate from
ly it to the each other to the diftance of 15° of latitude, or about 1,050 Britifh miles ;
fnally difcharge themfelves into the fame fea, comprehending a tract of
> fill inade. land of about 1000 miles in length, which they greatly contribute‘to
Oportion to fetilize. ; : ;
the firk in. To thefe grand rivers many important ftreams are tributary, but it
inary’ vege. would be infinite to enumerate the various waters which enrich and adorn
Among the this wide empire. —
8) 18 a kind Laxes.] Nor is China deftitute of noble and extenfive lakes. Du
hich is of a} Halde informs us that the lake of Tong-tint-how, i: ‘e province of
1 relifhed in
Hou-quang, is more than 80 vests in cirgumference. That of Poyang-
ce, together
hou, inthe province of Kiang-Si, is about 30 leagues in circumference,
nd followed and is formed by the confluence of four rivers as large as the Loire.
inefe pealant There is alfo a confiderable lake not far to the fouth of Nankin, called
feeds he in Tai-how. Some of thefe are defcribed in the late embafly. Upona
ation begins lake near the imperial canal were obferved thoufands of {mall boats and
ve the ha rafts, conftructed for a fingular f{pecies of fifhery. ‘ On each boat
them againt orraft are ten or a dozen birds, which, at a fignal from the owner,
n. plunge into the water ; and it is aftonifhing to fee the enormous fize
of grain, i of fifh with which they return grafped within their bills. They appear
to be fo well trained, that it did not require either ring or cord about
their throats, to prevent them from {wallowing any portion of their prey,
except what the matter was pleafed to return to them for encourage-
ment and food. The boat ufed by thefe fifhermen is of a remarkably
fight make, and is often carried to the lake, together with the fifhing-
birds, by the men who are there to be fupported by it.’
Mountains. ] Concerning the extenfive ranges of Chinefe mountains,
no general and accurate information has yet been given. Du Halde’s
ample defcription of the Chinefe empire only informs us that fome abound
with mines of filver, others produce marble and cryftal, while fome fup-
ply medicinal herbs. From the fame author we learn that the provinces
of Yunnan, Koeitcheou, Setchuen, and Fokien, are fo mountainous as
greatly to impede their cultivation ; and that of Tchekiang has dreadful
mountains on the weft. In the province of Kiangnan there is a diftri&
full of high mountains, which alfo abound in the provinces of Chenfi and
of Shanfi. This imperfeé information is little enlarged by the account
publifhed of the late embafly; and perhaps Mr. Arrow{mith’s recent
map of Afia, contains as authentic information as can be procured con-
cerning the courfe and extent of the Chinefe mountains. It hence ap-
pears that a confiderable branch extends from thofe in central Afia,
oan-ho; but running fouth to the river Hoan-ho. Two grand ranges running E.
+g farthe tof and W., interfect the centre of the empire, Gecntn ly continuations of
o doesto thei the enormous chains of Tibet. In the foutherg part of China the principal
a about 109 nies appear to run from N. to S. .
_ Forests.) Such is the cultivation digfufed throughout China, that few
forelts semain, except in the mountainous diftri&ts, Near the royal pa-
laceg
r the land lie
e hufbandry
two are well
cho and the
River, from
ated among iB
me of Ko
Df longitude,
h’s map of
river is exe
IE. direction
it fuddenly
and purfues
comparative
prding to the
it is crofled
ile, and the
ven or eight
362 CHINA PROPER.
laces there are indeed forefts of great extent, but they rathe
appearance of art than of Aen ad y rather bear the cone a
Botany.] The number of Europeans who have been allowed to vif colour, ¢
the interior of China is fo fmall, and thofe to whom this privilege has bee This —
granted having objets of more urgency to attend to than the indigenous quent. It
lants of this vaft empire, we are as yet only in poffeffion of fome fcattered |
ragments of the Chinefe flora, The neighbourhood of Canton has bee
furveyed by Ofbeck, and a meagre lifts oF plants is to be found in Stain
ton’s account of the Englifh embaffy there. Thefe are almoft the only Ni
authentic fources that have been hitherto opened, and are calculated rather bi ph
to excite than to fatisfy the botanical inquirer. : Hi vet
Among the trees and larger fhrubs we find particularized the thy " i d tthe f
orientalis, an elegant evergreen ; the camphor tree, whofe woed ths litle b aie |
an excellent and durable tir*her, and from the roots of which that fragrant ihe hi
fubftance camphor is procured by diftillation ; the oleander-leaved euphor. or oe ie
bia, a large fhrub ufed asa material for hedges ; the tallow tree, from the me e ee
fruit of which a green wax is procured that is manufactured into candles. ak uh :
the fpreading banyan tree, growing among loofe rocks ; the weeping wil. wi ies a
low; Spanifh chefnut, and the larch. Of the fruit trees the followin chee ‘La
are the principal : China orange ; the plantain tree ; the tamarind ; the ' Th he 3
white and paper mulberry tree ; the former of thefe is principally cultj. wili : d kin
vated for the ufe of its leaves, on which the filk worms are fed ; and of ral a
the bark of the latter, paper anda kind of cloth are made. Nor mut is ane ;
x the two fpecies of the tea tree be left unnoticed, whofe leaves conititute iis ee aah
fo large a proportion of the European trade with China. ae wa a
Several beautiful plants grow wild in the hedges, fuch as the globe am, ide + Be
tanth; the balfam ; and that elegant climber ipomea quamoclit. China. Th
Zootocy.] There are few animals peculiar to the Chinefe territory wan ee Ae :
Du Halde afferts that the lion is a ftranger to this country, but there are The fa
tygers, buffaloes, wild boars, bears, rhinocerofes, camels, deer, &c,*, iteation See
The mutk deer is a fingular animal of China as well as Tibet. Among aaebusae
the birds many are remarkable for their beautiful forms and colours, in iipeen : h
3 4
which they are rivalled by a variety of moths and butterflies,
MINERALOGY. ] Among the metals, -lead and tin feem to be the raref,
China poffeffes mines of gold, filver, iron, white copper, common copper
and mercury, together with lapis lazuli, jafper, sek cryftal, load tone,
grat porphyry, and various marbles. According to fome, rubies are
ound in China ; but others affert that they come from Ava.
In many of the: northern provinces coal is found in abundance. The
common people generally ufe it pounded with water, and dried in the form
of cakes.
Pekin is fupplied from high mountains in the vicinity, and the mines
feem inexauttible, though the coal be in general ufe.
Mines of filver are sbuvnlant, but little worked, from an apprehenfion
of impeding the progrefs of agriculture. The gold is chiefly derived from
the fands of certain mountains, fituated in the weftern part of the pro.
vinces of Sechuen and Yunnan, towards tne frontiers of Tibet. That
presseus metal is feldom ufed except by the gilders, the emperor alone
aving folid veffels of gold.
Tutenag, which is a native mixture of zinc and iron, feems to be a pe-
euliar produé of China, and in the province of Houquang there was amine
which yielded many hundred weight in the courfe of a few days.
The copper of Yoneap, and other provinces, fupplies the {mall cois
and mother
Names. — £.
Names. ]
between Tibe
the weft to t
* Staunton, ii. 84+ i, 02,
@urrent
bear the
d to vifit
has been
digenous
{cattered
has been
in Staun.
the only
ted rather
the thuya
od makes
t fragrant
d euphor.
» from the
D candles;
eping wil.
| felling
arind ; the
ally culti.
ds and of
Nor mut
s conttitute
globe ama.
it.
e territory,
t there are
eer, &c.*,
Among
colours, in
e the rareft,
on coppet
load ftone,
» Tubies are
Hance. ‘The
in the form
H the mines
pprehention
erived from
of the pro
bet. That
speror alone
to bea pee
p was amine
AYS.
onal coin
qurrent
CHINA PROPER. 363
eurrent through the empire ; but there is a fingular copper, of a white
colour, called by the Chipefe petong, which deferves particular notice.
This metal muft not be confounded with the tutenag, an error not unfre.
quent. It is indeed fometimes mingled with tutenag to render it fofter. |
CHINESE ISLANDS.
Numerous ifles are fcattered along the fouthern and eaftern coaft of
China, the largeft being thofe of Taiwan, alfo called Formofa, and that
of Hainan. Formofa is.a recent acquifition of the Chinefe in the latter
end of the feventeenth century ; the natives being by the Chinefe accopnts
little better than favages. It is divided from north to fouth by mountains,
and the chief Chinefe poffeffions are in the weftern part.
The fouthern part of Hainan is mountainous, but the northern more
level, and productive of rice. In the centre there are mines of gold ;
and on the fhores.are found fmall blue fithes, which the Chinefe efteemi
more than thofe which we call gold and filfer fifh ; but they only furvive
afew days when eonfined to a {mall quantity of water.
The ifles of Leoo-keoo, between Formofa and Japan, conftitute a little
civilized kingdom, tributary to China. Thefe ifles are faid to be thirty-
fix in number, but very inconfiderable, except the chief, which is propeily
and peculiarly called Leoo-keoo ; by the Chinefe accounts the length of
it is about 125 Britith miles, nearly twice thé extent which is affigned in
recent maps. ‘Thefe ifles were difcovered by the Chinefe in the feventh
century ; but it was not till the fourteenth that they became tributary to
China. ‘The emperor Kiang-hi, about A.D. 1720, ordered a temple
to be ere&ted to Confucius in the chief ifland, with a literary college.
The language is faid to differ from that of China or Japan; but the civi-
lization Teomns to have proceeded from the latter country, as the Japanefé
characters are commonly ufed. The people are mild, affable, gay, and
temperate ; and the chief produéts are fulphur, copper, tin, with fhells,
and mother of pearl.
PART I.
CHINESE TATARY.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Names. — Extent.— Boundaries.— Original Population.— Progeefive Guo.
phy. — Hiflorical Epochs int tetiio. weprce: Gos
HE vulgar name of Tartary,or more properly Tatary *,
Namas. J T was ortginally extended over the woh te lone Iyfng
between Tibet, China, and the Arétic ocean ; and from the Black Sea in
the weft to the utmoft bounds of north-eaftern difcovery in Afia. As
* Such is the Oriental orthography.
more
CHINESE TATARY.
354
more precife knowledge has arifen, the northern part has acquired the
name of Siberia, while the fouthern, in fome maps of recent date, j,
known by the appellations of Weftern and Eaftern Tartary. Yet even
in this part, which might more properly be ftyled Central Afia, the. _
Tatars, properly fo denominated, are few; the moft numerous tribe,
bee Monguls in the weft, and Mandfhurs in the eaft.
’ Tes extenfive region might therefore more properly be called Mop.
golia, as the presen number of tribes are Monguls ; or the weftern part
might be ftyled Tatary, the middle Mongolia, and the eaftern Mand.
fhuria. The two latter are the objects of. the prefent defcription ; as that
of Independent Tatary will be found after the account of Pertia, with
which it has (as now limited) in all ages been connected.
Extent.] This wide and interefting portion of Afia, which has
repeatedly fent forth its {warms to deluge the arts and civilization of Ey.
rope, extends from the 72° of longitude eatt from Greenwich to the 14¢°
a {pace of not lefa than 73° of longitude, which, at the medial latitude
of 45°, will yield about 3,100 geographical miles, The breadth from the
northern frontier of Tibet to the Ruflian confines is about 18 degrees, or
1,080 geographical miles. The boundary towards Ruffia has been al.
ready defcribed. The -eaftern boundary is the fea, while the fouthern
extends along the great Chinefe wall, and the northern limits of Tibet,
The weftern boundary is fupplied by the celebrated mountains of Belur
Tag, or the Cloudy Mountains, which divide the Chinefe empire from
Balk, and the Greater Bucharia; while the range on the weft of the
lake Palkati feparates the Kalmucs, fubjeét to China, from the Kirgufes
of Independent Tatary.
ORIGINAL POPULATION.] ‘The original population of central Afi, ,
appears to have been indigenal, fo far as the moit ancient records extend,
Part of the weft was held by the Scythe of antiquity, feemingly a Goshic
race, who were fubdued or expelled by the Tatars or Huns from the
ealt, preffed on the other fide by the Monguls. Beyond the latter were the
Mandfhurs, who, though inferior to the Songwk in power, yet retained
their ancient poffeffions, and in the feventeenth century conquered China,
At prefent the chief inhabitants are the Mandfhurs of the eaftern pro.
vinces’; with the tribes denominated Kalkas, Eluts, and Kalmucs, who :
are Monguls. The. information concerning central Afia is indeed very
lame and defective ; and though the late Ruffian travellers afford a few
hints, yet the jealoufy of the Chinefe, and other caufes, have contri,
buted to prolong our ignorance concerning this antag ae region.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. }] Though Ptolemy -has laid down, with
fome degree of accuracy, the country of the Seres, or Little Bucharia,
the progreffive geography of central Afia ie be faid to commence
with the travels of Marco Polo, in the end of the thirteenth century,
This writer is juftly regarded as the father of Tataric geography, and
his defcription of the countries to the north of Tibet is not a little inte.
refting.
The more recent accounts, among which may be mentioned the travels
of Gerbillon, publifhed by Du Halde, and thofe of Bell, with fome
hints Sf Pallas, may be faid to embrace but fmall portions of this vai
territory *. The imperfect ftate of knowledge concerning this coun.
try may be imagined, when even D' Anville has been obliged to have re.
eourfe to Marco Polo!
* The notes to the Hifbire Gérvealozique des Tatars, Leyde, 1726, 8vo. muft not be
foryotten amidft the fw matecials,
Histonicap
Historic
Afia may pe
any other do
be obferved i
the moft im
whence it wo:
chan named (
the Chriftian
known in gen
difentions of
the Monguls,
it is fcarcely
neighbours.
ANTIQUITI
Monguls; bu
explored by ti
tiquity may be
Religion. — Go
RELIGION. ] 7
ina fupreme ar
of numerous it
cutomed to ac
form of fuperft
Tibet.
GoVERNMEN
{rong mixture
isconduéted b
ceive Chinefe tit
Though writing
tobe chiefly trac
PopuLATION
form any preci
found, under ff
individuals, not
fonable to infer t
tral Afia there d
_ Divistons. J
into three great
* , furrounde
sChinyang, alfa
place, wits ma
and the founder
Oula, which ext,
dferts on both
CHINESE TATARY. 366
Historica Frocus.j The chief hiftorical epochs of this part of
red the Afia may perhaps be more certainly traced in the Chinefe annals, than in
ate, is any other documents. The firft appearance of the Huns or Tatars may
et even be obferved in the pages of Roman hiftory, The annals of the Monguls,
1a, the: the moft important nation, faintly illuminates the pages of Abulgafi,
tribes whence it would appear that prior to Zingis there was only one celebrated
chan named Oguz, who feems to have flourifhed about the 13oth year of
Mon. the Chriftian era. he reigns of Zingis and Timur are fufficiently
TN part ;nown in general hiftory ; but the divifions of their conquefts, and the
Mand. diffentions of their fucceffors have now almoft annihilated the power of
as that the Monguls, who being partly fubjeét to China, and partly to Ruffia,
dy with it is fcarcely conceivable that they can again difturb the peace of their
ich ha neighbours.
| $
ANTIQUITIES.] Few antiquities remain to illuftrate the power of the
n of Eu. Monguls; but it is probable that when this region fhall be more fully
1 145° aplored by travellers, feveral tombs, temples, and other remains of an-
latitude es if :
lois tiquity may be difcovered
Brees, or i
been al. CHAPTER II.
fouthern
f Tibet. POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
of Belur
‘e from Riligion. — Government. — Laws. — Population. —Army.—-Political Ime
It of the portance and Relations. ,
Kirgutes
: HE religion moft univerfally diffufed in this part of
tral Afia | neucios.]” | aia is what has been called Shamanifm, or the belief
§ extend, ina fupreme author of nature, who governs the univerfe by the agency
a Goihic af numerous inferior fpirits of great power. The Kalkas were ac-
from the ctomed to acknowledge a living Lama, or great f{pirit embodied ; a
ise form of fuperftition which will be better illuftrated in the account of
; Tibet.
ae GoveRNMENT ] The govesnment was formerly monarchical, with a
rong mixture of ariftocracy, andeven of democracy. At prefent it
isconduéted by princes who pay homage to the Chinefe empire, and re-
ceive Chinefe titles of honour; but many of the ancient formsare retained.
Though writing be not unknown among the Monguls, yet the laws appear
tobe chiefly traditional.
agbhea Of the population of thefe regions it is difficult to
form any precife ideas. As the numerous tribes fubje@& to Ruffia are
found, under f{plendid appellations, to prefent but a {lender number of
individuals, not exceeding two or three millions, it may perhaps be rea-
fonable to infer that amidit the wide deferts and barren mountains of cen
tral Afia there do not inhabit above fix millions, :
Divistons.] The country of the Mandfhurs is by the Chinefe divided
into three great governments. 1. That of Chinyang comprifing Leao-
dong, fuiouniee in part by.a ftrong barrier of wood. The chief town
isChinyang, alfo called Mugden by the Mandthurs, {lill a confiderable
place, with a maufoleum of Kunchi, regarded as the conqueror of China,
and the founder of the reigning family *. 2. The government of Kiren-
Qula, which extends far to the N.E., where thete are many forefts and
dferts on both fides of the great river Sagajien. Kirem the capital
cs, who '
eed very
rd a few
b contris
vn, with
Bucharia,
ommence
century,
hy, and
ttle inte:
¢ travels
ith fome
this valt
is Couns
have 1.
mutt not be ® Le Croix,,ii, 2912.
TORICAR ati
sores sorgrte PTL.
rere Seti
sees OMEN ands COE AS
366 CHINESE TATARY.
ftands on the river Songari, which falls into the Sagalien or Amur, and
was the refidence of the Mandfhur general, who aéted as viceroy’,
3. The government of T'fitchicar, fo called from a town recently founded
on the Nonni Oula, where a Chinefe garrifon is ftationed, The
Ruffians call this province Daouria, from the tribe Fagot, whe
poffefs a great part of this territory. The weftern boundary is the
river Argoon, the frontier between Ruffia and China. Thefe is
vinces having been the. feat of the Mandfhur monarchy before the con.
ueft of China, have fince that event remained fubject to their ancient
feveralcens : E
In this divifion may alfo be mentioned Corea, which has for many cen.
turies acknowledged the authority of China, and which boatts a confider.
able population.
To the weft are various tribes of Monguls, as the Kalkas, thofe
around Koko Nor, or the Blue Lake, who are alfo called Gilets, Eluts,
or Kalmucs, the terms only implying particular Mongul branches,
The Eluts have been greatly reduced by two deftructive wars againg
the Chinefe in 1720 and 1757; and their contaifch, or great chan, hay
difappeared. Their country may be confidered under three diy.
fions. 1. That part .called Gete even in the time of Timur, which
fome regard as the country of the ancient Maflagetz, towards the lakes
of Palkati, Balkafh or Tengis, and Zaizan. 2. Little Bucharia, {
called to diftinguifh it from the Greater Bucharia, which is fubjed to
the Ufbecs, a Tataric nation: put the people of Little Bucharia are an
induftrious race of a diftin& origin, who are little mingled with their
Kalmuc or Mongul lords. 3. The countries of Turfan, to the north of
the lake called Lok Nor, and that of Chamil or Hami to the caf, re:
gions little known, and, furrounded with wide deferts, Upon the
whole it may perhaps be found that the Mandfhurs are the moft popu.
lous race, and that the Monguls, though diffufed through a vait ter.
ritory, can hardly boaft the name of a nation. The Kirgufes, of
Tatars proper of the weft, are confined to a {mall and unfertile dij.
trict ; and may more properly be confidered as belonging to Independent
Tatary.
haus:] It is probable that this part of the Chinefe empire might
mufter a large but ineffeCtual army; and amid{ft modern tattc
and weapons, little needs be apprehended from a new deluge of
Mongul barbarians. Befides, their interefts are now fo various and
difcordant, that while the empires of Ruffia and China exift, they
can only be regarded as connected with the policy of thefe powerful
ftates.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Mesnere and Cuftoms.— Language. — Literature. — Cities and Town.
Manufa&ures and Commerce.
TS manners and cuftoms of the Mon
Manwens AND custome. J guls have been already briefly defcribed
in the accoust of Afiatic Ruffia.
© Da Halde, iv. 7.
Rouctain, alfo Ta Q
The Ma
guithable ir
jeluits they
whom they
Shamanifm,
LANGUA
Tatars, radi
to be the m
LITERAT
known, exc
of the mona
imported lit.
fiderable.
CITIES AX
cities and tov
or duration.
wards the eal
In Little B
Karia. Cath
iderable king
Bucharia *,
retains fome c
which, after a
Turfan, th
which ufed tc
China Ham
{mall diftri€& i
lace, about h:
dsina fe
Some towns ¢
tations for te
To the eaft
Mongul towns
of Du Halde,
the Hoan-ho.
The count
Hotun Sagalia
country of the
Merguen, Peto
of the great riv
thofe here enu
chiefly inhabited
a lieutenant-gen
gneral, and the
plant called gin
Oula+ Hotun
hur fettlement ¢
The chief cit
to know the nan
‘ Hiftoire des Tat
t Inthe Mandh
Me, iv, 530. pj
ana & river,
Du Halde, iv. 1
CHINESE TATARY. 367
The Mandfhurs, who here deferve particular notice, are little diftin-
yihable in their manners from the Monguls. By the account of the
(uits they have no temples, nor idols, but worfhip a fupreme being,
Yr, and
roy*,
oe whom they ftyle emperor of heaven. But probably their real creed 1s
_ The Shamani{m, or a kind of rational polytheifm.
1, whe LANGUAGE.] The three languages of the Mandfhurs, Monguls, and
tee Tatars, radically differ from cual other ; the former of which appears
fe pro. tobe the moft learned and perfect of the Tataric idioms.
the con- LITERATURE.] Of the native literature of the Mandfhurs little is
ancient known, except that a code of laws was drawn up by the order of one
of the monarchs, prior it is believed, to the conquett of China. The
sation imported literature by the tranflation of Chinefe works muft be con-
; ; erable.
gia AND Towns. ] This extenfive portion of Afia contains feveral
ne cities and towns, generally conftruGted of wood, and of little antiquity
Raith. or duration. Me fhall be briefly mentioned, pafling from the weit toe :
eA wards the ealt.
i. ie In Little Bucharia appear the cities of Cafhgar, Yarkand, Kotun, and
eae Karia. Cafhgar was formerly a remarkable town, giving name to a con-
{derable kingdom, the limits of which nearly correfponded with Little
ur, which + ° : f ‘
he lakes Bucharia*. ‘This town, though fallen from its ancicnt {plendour, ftiil
te i retains fome commerce. Yarkand ftands ona river of the fame name,
r beh s which, after a long eafterly courfe, falls into the lake of Lop.
ae Turfan, the capital of a detached principality, is a confiderable town,
with t vi ghich ufed to be frequented by the merchants paffing from 7 urfia to
a mie China. Hami, Chami, or according to others Chamil, gives name to a
{mall diftri€t in the immenfe defert of Cobi: it is a fmall but populoris
lace, about half a league in circumference, with two beautiful gates. it
hands ina fertile plain, watered by a river, fheltered by hills 21 che N.
Some towns occur farther to the fouth, but reminaly are only ufual
tations for tents, the Monguls preferring the Nomadic life.
To the eaft of the great defert, and near the frontiers of China, feveral
Mongul towns appear in the maps. Coucou feems to be the Couchan
of Du Halde, a Fall town feated on a hill near a river which falls into
the Hoan-ho. The others are yet more inconfiderable.
The country of the Mandfhurs contains many villages and cities, as
Eatice:of Hotun Sagalian Oula, fo called from its pofition on that river, in the
he ‘al country of the Tahouria, modernized Daouria; likewife Tfitchikar, with
watts thes Merguen, Petouna, Kirin Oula, and Ningouta. On the north and caft
deri of the great river Amur fcarcely the veftige of a village ara Of
thofe here enumerated Petouna or Pedne was, in the time of Du Halde,
chiefly inhabited by Mandfhur foldiers and exiles, -inder the command of
alieutenant-general. Ningouta was alfo the refdence of a Mandfhur
general; and the feat of a confiderable trade, particularly in the celebrated
plant called ginfeng, which abounds in the neighbourhood. Segalian
Oulat Hotun fignifies the city of the black river, and is the chief Mand-
hur fettlement on that noble ftream {.
The chief city of Corea is Kinkatao, of which we may be faid only
to know the name.
the eaft, re
Upon the
mot popu.
a valt ter.
irgufes, or
fertile dif.
ndependent
pire might
ern tactics
fe powerful
( Towns
* Hiftoire des Tatars, 398.
t Inthe Mandfhur language Oula fignifies a river, as in the Chinefe Kiang. Du
Hilde, iv, 530 Pira implies the fame. In the Mongul Muren is a river; Alin a
mourtain, alfo Tabahan; Hate is a rock. In the Tatar or Turkith Tag is a mountain,
a river.
t Du Halde, iv. 19. .
Df the Mon
hy defcribed
9 TRADE. ]
368 CHINESE TATARY.
Trape.] The principal trade of the Mandfhur country confifts in gine
feng and pearls, found in many rivers which fall into the Amur, Exel,
lent horfes may alfo be claffed among the exports. Cafhgar was for.
merly celebrated for mufk and gold. Corea alfo produces gold, filver,
iron, beautiful yellow varnifh, and white paper, ginfeng, with {mal}
horfes about three feet high, furs, and foffil falt. Whe other towns
are rather ftations for sGavehante than feats of commerce. But the em.
poria of the Ruffian trade with China muft not be forgotten, being on
the Ruffian fide Zuruchaitu, on the river Argoon, and Kiachta: oppo.
hy to which, on the Chinefe frontier, are eorrefpondent {tations erected
ef wood.
of Lop. The ]
tataric hiftory.
Lakes. ] Som
or Tengis, and 7
Koko Nor, by fc
nme to a tribe of
which by the Man
MounNTAINS. ]
Alia have never b
received extenfive
chain called Imaus
ofthe natives, run
In the eaftern ci
hid down in the fa
The chief diffict
fontier have been
het, and the fource
suill fainter light f;
direction to the nor
The great river:
eapofite direétion it
the fummits of whic
live terraces, ‘1
cular fides, and fim
frows, and give fou
terrible noife amid!
perpetual fhow 5 -an
thofe that flow inte
which runs into Mo
There are fome f.
ration and fandy foi
of Africa.
Borany.] Of th
the vat territories o
nr totally ignora
though, much lefs
regions. From thei
obvious that no trop
Attic countries, a
counts of a few trav
fa coalt of Tatary,
av for the moft part
witha few Siberian |
the Indian and Siberi
band of European vey
tality, phasis » in al
whence it ttretches d
and the coatt of Man
it partakes of the cli
vegetable produétion
features in the floras
allo that peculiar {peq
Nextenlive tract,
atnly acquainted with
Mikuowa and fing
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country. — Soil and Acriculture.~ River,
— Lakes. — Mountains. — Forefts.— Botany. -— Zoology. — Mineralogy,
— Mineral Waters. — Natural Curiofities.
HOUGH the parallel of central Afia correfpond;
CuimateE, J gi with tha of Fretes, and part of Spain, 7s the
height and fnows of the mountainous ridges occafion a degree and conti.
nuance of cold little to be expected from other circumftances. In jj.
mate and productions it is however far fuperior to Siberia.
Face or THE countRY. ] ‘The appearance of this extenfive region js
diverfified with all the grand fratures of nature, extenfive chains of moun.
tains, large rivers and lakes; but the moft fingular feature is that vat
elevated plain, fupported like a table, by the mountains of Tibet in the
fouth, and Altaian chain in the north, from the mountains of Belur Tag J
in the weft to thofe that bound the Kalkas in the eaft. ‘This prodigious §
plain, the moft elevated cuntinuous region on the’ globe, is interlected by
fome chains of mountains, and by the vaft defert of Cobi or Shimo,
Deftitute of plants and water, it is dangerous for horfes, butt is falely
pafled with camels. ‘This defert extends from about the 80° of Z. loi
gitude from Greenwici: to xbout the rroth”, being 30° of longitude,
which in the latitude of 40°, may be 1,380 geographical miles; but in
this wide extent are Oafvs, or fertile {pots, and even confiderable regions, |
On the other hand, the inain defert fends forth feveral barren branches
in various direétions.
Acricu.tureE.] Among the fouthern Mandfhurs, and the people of
Little Bucharia, agriculture is net wholly neglected, nor is wheat an un
known harvelt. The foil of fo extenfive a portion of the earth may be
fuppofed to be infinitely various; but the predominating fubitance is
black fand.
Rivers. } The moft important river is that called by the Rufiis
the Amur, by the Mandthurs Sagalian Oula. The Amur is defervedly
claffed among the largeft rivers; rifing near the Yablonoi mountains,
where it is firft known by the wames of Kerlon and Argoon, and pur
fuing an eatterly courfe of about 1,850 Britifth miles. ‘The Amur is the
nd receptacle of the Mandfhur ftreams, among which the molt coni
emble is the Songari, which itfelf receives the large river Nonni. The
Roflian waters of Selinga and Irtith alfo pervade a part of central Alia
T river of Yarkand has a — courfe before it enters the -
0
CHINESE TATARY. 359 ,
of Lop. The Ili, which falls into the lake of Balkafh, is noted in
nutaric hiftory.
Lakes. ] Some of the lakes are of great extent, as thofe of Balkath
or Tengis, and Zaizan, each about 150 miles in length. Next is the
Koko Nor, by fome called Hoho Nor, or the Blue Lake, which gives
nme toa tribe of the Monguls. Nor is the Mongul term for a lake,
yhich by the Mandfhurs is flyled Omo.
Mountains. ] The vatt ange of mountains which interfe&t central
Alia have never been fcientifically defcribed, and few of them have even
neeived extenfive and appropriate appellations. On the weft the great
dain called Imaus by the ancients, the Belur Tag, or Dark Mountains
ifthe natives, runs from N. to S.
In the eaftern country of the Mandfhurs the ridges of mountains are
hid down in the fame diretion.
The chief difficulties attend thofe in the centre. Thofe on the Ruffian
fontier have been well defcribed; but of the northern mountains of 'Ti-
: et, and the fources of the Ganges, our knowledge remains imperfect.
tvers, sil fainter light falls on the ridges which run in an eatterly and wetterly
alegy rection to the north of the great defert.
The great rivers of Onon and Argoon, with others that flow in an
eppofite direction into the Selinga, rife from the high ridge of Sochondo,
the fummits of which eonfift of large rocks heaped on each other in fuc-
five terraces. ‘L'here are two vait cavities, or abyffes, with perpendi-
ular fides, and fmall lakes at the bottom, which receive the melting
rows, and give fource te torrents which precipitate themfelves with a
terrible sole amidft the disjointed rocks. This ridge is clothed with
petual {how ;-and, after dividing the rivers of Ruffian Daouria fiom
thole that flow into the Baikal, paffes S.W., and joins an icy chain
: which runs into Mongolia.
ie Mm ‘There are fome foretts near the rivers ; but in general the extreme ele.
fin ation and fandy foil of central Afia render trees as rare as in the deferts
ee of Africa. ‘
" iA Borany.] Of the botany of the whole central part of Afia, including
ff , the valt territories of Chinefe Tatary and Tibet, we are as yet in a man-
, "lee wt totally ignorant. No European naturalift has ever even paffed
sae though, much lefs explored, the vegetable produéts of thefe extentive
ie regions, From their elevated tituation, and their rigorous winters, it is
aris, obvious that no tropical plants, nor even thofe of the more temperate
oe Afiatic countries, are to be expected in their flora; and by the vague ac-
— counts of a few travellers, combined with the little that we know of the
Je of ta coat of Tatary, it would appear that at leaft the commoneft plants
te ar for the moft part the fame as thofe of the north of Germany, mingled
he witha few Siberian Species. Hence it feems that the territorial limits of
a the Indian and Siberian floras are feparated from each other by a broad
bad of European vegetables, which, entering Atia by the Uralian moun.
tas, proceeds in a fouth eaft direction as far as the Tatarian borders,
whence it itretches due eatt quite acrofs the continent, to the river Amur,
ntainsy Md the coatt of Mandfhur T'atary. " The fouthern frontier of Tibet, as
pure it partakes of the climate of India, fo it refemt.‘es this laft in fome of its
is the wgetable productions, and for the fame reafon there are many common
inal features in the floras of Siberia, and the north of Tatary. It 1s probable
The Ege? that peculiar fpecies, or even genera, may hereafter be found in fuch
1 Alia, Ae" Mtenlive tract. The only indigenous plants that we are as yet cer.
Jake ainly acquainted with, except what belong to Siberia, or India, are, that
of ae*l-kuown and fingular fern the polypodium barometz, called alfo the
B 5 Scythian
stattisn 2
cemmmmnenestinilinethieniat lpia aT ae
ponds
t the
couti-
n cli.
co ami aR +
rion is
moun.
at vatt
hice 19
wflians
brvedly
370 CHINESE TATARY.
Scythian lamb; panax quinquefolium, gir the favourite drug of Chins.
and rheum palmatum, which at leaft is one of the plants that furnithes
the true rhubarb.
Zootocy.] The zoology of this wide portion of the globe wouly
fupply an infinite theme, in which the camel of the defert might a pear
with the rock goat of the Alps, and the tiger with the ermine, The
wild horfe, and the wild afs, and a peculiar {pecies of cattle which grunt
like {wine, are among the moft remarkable fingularities. The wild hor
is generally of a moufe colour, and fmall, with long fharp ears.
INERALOGY.] The mineralogy of central Afia has been little eX.
lored. Gold is found both in the eaftern and weftern regions, and th
Sriae are alfo faid to produce tin. As Ruffian Daouria exhibits fo may
valuable fubftances, it is reafonable to conclude that they equally abound
in the Chinefe territory, if fimilar fkill and induftry were exerted in their
detection. 'The mineral waters, and uncommon appearances of nature, ine
have been little inveftigated.
ISLAND OF SAGALIAN, OR TCHOKA.
Till this large iland was explored by the unfortunate navigator La P.,
roufe, it was {uppofed to be only a {mall ifle at the mouth of the Amu,
the fouthern extremity being placed by D’Anville about 4’, or 240 pens
raphical miles, to the north of Jeffo. By the account and maps of
Beroufe it is only divided from Jeffo by a narrow {trait of about 20 mil
in breadth, fince called the ftrait of Peroufe. The difcovery and accounp
of this large ifland, which extends from the 46th of latitude to the sath?
or not lefs than 480 geographical miles in length, by about 80 of medi
breadth, is the moft important portion of that navigator’s voyage. Thy
natives feem to approach to the Tataric form; and the upper lip is com
monly tatooed blue. The drefs is a loofe robe of fkins, or quilted nay
keen, with a girdle. Their huts, or cabins, are of timber, thatched wit
grafs, with a fire-place inthe centre. In the fouth are found Japane
articles. A little trade feems alfo known with the Mandfhurs and ¢!
Ruffians. The native name of this large ifland is Tchoka, that ufed|
the Japanefe Oku Jeffo, perhaps implving Farther Jeffo; while the Ruffian
who only know the northern part, call it the ifle of Sagalian, becaufeit
oppofite to the large river of that name. The centre 1s mountainous, »
well wooded with pine, willow, oak, and birch ; but the fhores are levd
and fingularly adapted to agriculture. The people are highly praifedt
La Peroufe as a mild and intelligent race; and‘ he expreisly informs y
that they are quite unlike the Mandfhurs, or Chinefe. °
mountains covered
nnces of Shang,
at Takbo, Cong
which is confidered
and 'Tamo,
Ou contains Laffa
Ou: and is inhabi
Ruflians, the northern
Names. — Exten
Religion. — G.
rature. — Citie
Soil. — Rivers
ities.
HE accoun
in the topi
narrative of Cap
tic: but it only
recourfe mult be
rous independenc
countries in the «
| Names.) The
in the country i
the native appell
Pué, fignifying n
of the north*.
Extent. ] Ac
about the 75th te
yo may be about
as extendin g from
raphical mile
Pined | but a
province of Tibe
Hindoos, and fo
concluded that t
the Tatagic, thou
Tatars proper.
BouNDARIES A
the northern boun¢
farther than it ap
Great Tibet to th
Tibet is divided
Tibet chiefly comy
Many of thefe
Shan
* Turner, p. v. and
t Probably to 976,
oF China
furnithes
re. The
ich grunt
vild horfe
little CX.
» and the
8 fo Many
ly abound
od in their
of nature, ii
or La Pe.
the Amur,
r 240 peo.
aps fl
It 20 mil;
1d account
the s4th’
of medi
Age. Th
hip is com
uilted nan
tched with
d Japane
rs and th
at ufed b
e Ruffian
ecauleit
INOUs, an
6 are levd
praifed
informs
( 371 )
PART 11].
CHINESE EMPIRE.
TIBET.
Names. - Extent. — Boundaries and Provinces. — Hib saad Geography. —
Religion. — Goveritm:ri.— Population.— Manners.— Language and Lite.
rature.— Cities an? Zowns. — Aon oiee and Commerce. — Climate and
Soil. — Rivers. — Mountains. — Zoology. — Mineralogy.— Natural Curio-
fities. ;
HE account of this interefting country muft unfortunately be limited
in the topics, as the materials are far from being ample. The recent
narrative of Captain Turner’s ey fhall be feleéted as the moft authen-
tic; but it only embraces a {mall part, and for the general geography
rcourfe mult be had to more antiquated authorities, Tibet, with its nume-
us independencies, may in faét be ftill arranged among the undifcovered
countries in the centre of Afia.
| Names.) The name of Tibet, which is probably Hindoo or Perfian, is,
in the country itfelf, and in Bengal, pronounced 7ibbet, or Tibt. But
the native appellation is Pué, or Pué Kouchim, faid to be derived from
Pué, fignifying northern, and Koachim, {now ; that is,~the {nowy region
of the north*.
Extent.] According to the moft recent maps, Tibet extends from
about the 75th to the rorft degree of longitude, which in the latitude of
yo may be about 1,350 geographical miles. T'he breadth may be regarded
asextending from the 27th to the 35th degree of latitude, or about 480
geographical miles +. The original population has not been accurately
examined ; but as the people of Bootan, which is regarded as a fouthern
province of Tibet, are faid to differ effentially and: radically from the
Hindoos, and fomewhat to refemble the Chinefe, it may perhaps be
concluded that they belong to that grand race of men which approaches
the Tataric, though they cannot be regarded as Mandfhurs, Monguls, or
Tatars proper.
BouNDARIES AND PROVINCES. ] There is every reafon to believe that
the northern boundary of this country may be fafely extended two degrees
firther than it appears in our beft maps, in which there is no portion of
Great Tibet to the N.E. of Cafhmir.
Tibet is divided into three parts, Upper, Middle, and Lower. Upper
Tibet chiefly comprifes the province of Nagari, full of horrible rocks, and
mountains covered with eternal {now. Middle Tibet contains the proe
vinces of Shang, Ou, and Kiang ; while the provinces of Lower Tibet
art Takbo, Congbo, and Kahang. so
Many of thefe provinces are again fubdivided: for inftance, Nagari,
which is confidered as a kingdom of three departments, Sangkar, Pourang,
ind 'Tamo, Shang is on the W., bounded by Nipal. ‘The province of
Ou contains Laffa, the capital of Tibet. ory is to the north-eaft of
Ou: and is inhabited by mingled Tibetans and Monguls, in tents, Ka-
* Turner, p.v. and 305,
t Probably to 97°, which would add 120 g. miles; for Mus Tag is, according to the
Rullians, the northern buundary of Tibet s and they place that range in 98°,
Bbha hang
Welve
ot the
nfines
k the
'y and
of our
all the |
Npour,
The
a freat
E. part
Pat wall
hittory
ith pers
tures of
querors
re NE,
Thefe
ting in
the time
f Tibet
ieve that
ancients,
to have
ge, even
been the
the pro.
ith many
gold and
a map of
vematical
ovince of
mined by
Id admit,
rtunately
ariations,
hal credit;
o difting
ecenit ate
from the
have new
hich may
fouthern
id Indus,
or India,
ly traced
bf Aliatic
isToRY.]
TIBET. ; 373
History. ] Thedama of Tibet was probably the Prefter John of the
middle ages ; and this (trange appellation was as ftrangely transferred by
portuguefe ignorance to the emperor of Abyffinia. Polo informs us that
Tibet had been ravaged by the Monguls, fo that in his time it was almoft
jefolate. ‘The quiet fucceffion of the lamas would afford few materials
i hiftory 3 and the petty fecular chiefs * of diftin& provinces or mings
jms may perhaps fometimes be traced in the Chinefe or Hindoo annals,
jut would little intereft an European reader. As the tombs and mona-
tories are Often conftructed of ftone, fome may remain of remote anti-
ity. But the idols, cut in the rocks, are little calculated to imprefs
avellers with the idea of much perfection in the arts.
ReLicions] The religion of Tibet feems to be the fchifmatical off-
ioring of that of the Hindoos +. It is reported to have received its ear-
jet admiffion in that part of Tibet bordering upon India, (which from
ieee became the feat of the fovereign lamas ;) to have traverfed over
antclieux Tatary, and to have been ultimately difleminated over China
gd Japan. Tt ftill bears a very clofe affinity with the religion of Brahma
jamany important particulars, but differs materially in its ritual, or cere-
ronal worfhip. ‘Tibetians aflemble in chapels, and unite together in
prodigious numbers to perform their religious fervice, which they chant
alternate recitative and chorus, accompanied by an extenfive band of
ud and powerful inftruments ; fo that thefe congregations forcibly recal
the recollection both the folemnity and found of the Roman Catholic
mals.
There are alfo numerous monatfteries, containing crowds of gylongs, or
nonks, with a few annees, or nuns.
GovenNMENT.] The ruling government is the fpiritual, though the
na was accuftomed to appoint a tifa, or fecular regent, a right which
tas probably paffed to the Chinefe emperor. In Bootan, generally con-
idered as a province of Tibet, there is a raja, or prince, called Daeb,
shofe authority however is far from being firm or extenfive. The laws
mut, like the religion, bear fome affinity to that of the Hindoos,
PortLATION.) No eftimate of the population of Tibet feems to have
een attempted ; but as the country may be faid to be wholly mountaine
ot, and the climate exceffively cold, even under the 27th degree of lati-
tude, (the influence of mountains being far fuperior to that of imaginary
anes) the people are thinly fcattered, and the number of males far ex-
eds that of females. From the eafe with which the conqueft was
eluted by the Eluts, and other circumftances, it can fcarcely be con-
ived that a monarch of all Tibet could have brought into the field an
my of more than 50,0c0 ; and allowing that (exclufive of the nume-
ous monks) only every tenth perfon affumed arms, the population would
ehalf amillion, a circumltance which will not farprife thofe who con-
fic: that a few families in central Afia affume the name of a nation.
But -his number is probably far too fmall; and it can only be faid that
e population feems fcanty.
Revenvues.] ‘The revenues of the lama, and of the fecular princes,
* Yet Tibet was for fome time fubje& to fecular kings, called Tfan Pa; and the lima
ded at Latta, with a power fimilar to that of the tpiritual prince of Japan, ‘Tliode
onguls called luts conquered the fecular prince, and transferred the whole power to the
a (Du Hae, iv, $0.) Ln 1792, the Nipalefe having committed great ravages in
idet, the emperor of China fent an army to protedt the lama; in confequence of which
be Chinefe have eftablifhed military pofts on the frontiers, fo that the intercoufe between
heit country aud Bengal is now precluded. Turner, 441.
t Tarver, p. 306.
Bb3 feem
CHINESE EMPIRE.
the tranfition is
nonaftery.
Lafla, the cay
fnall city, but
The noted moun
is about feven n
inthe native tons
Tothe north of
yred with fnow.
of Tibet t.
EpIFICES.]
fioned) Mr. Tu
three or four hu
naufoleums, and
we all of ftone,
ad parapets cor
the melting fnow
rae a balcony.
‘delineated by M
fridges occur o
chains, drawn fro
nd being fixed i
projection, till the
thus refembling the
rocky mountains re
gtrous after rain,
MANUFACTURE:
ind fome woollen c¢
the fine undermoft
ischiefly fent to Cd
of gold duft, diamo
Many of the Chi
Tibet fends rock
return bafe filver cd
Nipal is alfo carrieg
udmuk. The re
phires, lazulite, jet
mtercourfe ; and t
internal,
Trave.] The
toduéted at the g
the province of She
There is no mint in
prejudices ; but tl
country,
Cumate.] T
rhen compared wit]
¢ren in the former c¢
aremarkable unifo
nd return, ‘The
fouthern region of
by a variable atmof;
reftefhing fhowers,
feem to be trifling ; nor can Tibet ever afpire to any political import.
ance. In a commercial point of view, friendfhip and free intercourf.
with Tibet might open new advantages to our fettlements in Bengal ;
and in this defign repeated envoys to the lama were fent by Mr, Hattings,
a governor who pofleffed the moft enlarged and enlightened mind, and a,
active attention to the interefts of his country.
CHARACTER, &c.] Mr. Turner reprefents the charatter of the Ti.
betians as extremely gentle and amiable. The men are generally ftoy
with fomething of the Tataric features, and the women of a ruddy brown
complexion, heightened like the fruits by the proximity of the fun, while §
the mountains breezes beflow health and vigour.
«¢ The ceremonies of marriage are neither tedious nor intricate in Tj.
bet*. Their courtfhips are carried on with little art, and quickly brought
to aconclufion. The priefts of Tibet, who fhun the fociety of women
have no fhare in thefe ceremonies, or in ratifying the obligation betwee,
the parties, which, it feems, is formed indiffolubly for life.”
_It is a remarkable charatteriftic of the country, that polygamy here
affumes a different form from that of other oriental regions : the women
being indulged in a plurality of hufbands, inttead of the reverfe. [tis
the privilege of the elder brother to fele€t a wife, who ftands in an equal
relation to his other brothers, whatever may be the number +.
Such is the refpe& paid to the lama, that hi body is prefered
entire in a fhrine; while thofe of the inferior pricfts are burnt, and
their afhes preferved in little hollow images of metal. But in generd
the dead bodies are expofed to the beatts and birds of prey, in walled
areas ; and an annual feftival is held, as in Bengal and China, in honour
of the dead. ;
A curious idea of the manners and cultoms of the Tibetians may be
formed from Mr. T'urner’s account of his interview with the lama, then
an infant not capable of fpeech ; for, in the fpirit of the eattern metem.
pfycofis, they fuppofe that the foul of the lama paffes from his late body
into another, which they difcover by infallible marks.
Upon the whole, the Tibetians appear to have made a confiderabk
progrefs in civilization; but the fciences continue in a fate of imper.
fection; the year, for inftance, being lunar, and the month confifting of
20 days.
: t eauadact The origins of the Tibetian fpeech have not been pro.
erly inveftigated. The literature is chiefly of. the religious kind, the
ook being fometimes printed with blocks of wood, on narrow flips o
thin paper, fabricated from the fibrous root of a {mall fhrub. In this
practice they refemble the Chinefe ; while the Hindoos engrave their
works with a fteel ftylus upon the recent leaves of the palmyra tree
(boraffus flabeliiformis,) affording a fibrous fubftance, which feems inde
{truétible by vermin ¢. The writing runs from the left to the right,a
in the languages of Europe.
The gylongs, or monks, pafs through a regular education ; and, iti
to be fuppofed, fometimes teach children not deftined to religious con
finement.
Cirizs AND Towns. ] OF the cities and towns of Tibet little is known
The capital is Laffa: and feveral other names in the fouthern part affumg
the charaéter of towns in the maps, though probably mere villages
There being little commerce, there is no middle clafs of people ; but
* Rennd
* Turner, p, 352. + Du Halde and ‘Turner. t Turner, 323
porte
courfe
engal :
tings,
and an
he Ti.
r ftout,
brown
1, while §
>in Tie
rought
women,
Det ween
my here
» women
- Itis
an equal
referved
rnt, and
1 general
n walled
1 honour
8 may be
ma, then
In metem:
late body
fiderable
bf imper.
fifting of
been pros
kind, the
w flips of
In this
ave their
yra tree,
ems indes
> right, a
and, iti
ious con
is known
art aflumé
e village
ople 5 Ny
3
TIBET. 395
ie tranfition is rapid, from the miferable hut to the ftone palace or
ftery-
Os, the capital of Tibet, is fituated in a fpacious plain, being a
(all city, but the houfes are of ftone, and are fpacious and lofty *.
The noted mountain of Putala, on which ftands the palace of the lamay,_
about feven miles to the eaft of the city. As La means a hill,
athe native tongue, this name may imply the hill of Pouta or Boodh.
Tothe north of Laffa appears another vaft range of mountains, co-
ered with fnow. Laffa is in the province of Ou, and almoft in the centre
Tibet . :
eal Among the edifices the monafteries may be firft men-
ined. Mr. Turner defcribes that of Tefhoo Loomboo, as containing
three or four hundred houfes, inhabited by monks, befides temples,
mufoleams, and the palace of the fovereign. pontiff. ‘The puneing
ye all of ftone, none lefs than two ftories in height, with flat roofs,
ad parapets compofed of heath and brufhwood, probably to emit
ihe melting fnow. The centre window projects beyond the wall, and
fre a balcony. Some of the palaces and fortreffes are defcribed and
t itineated by Mr. Turner; and the architecture feems refpeétable.
fridges occur of various fantaltic forms; fometimes confifting of
tains, drawn from precipice to precipice; fometimes of beams, one
ad being fixed in the fhore, while the other fucceffively increafes its
projection, till the uppermott timbers fupport a fhort paflage of planks,
thusrefembling the upper feCtion of an o€tagon. The roads amidft the
mcky mountains refemble thofe of Swifferland, and are particularly dan-
rous after rain. *
ManuFacTuREsS. ] The chief manufactures of Tibet feem to be fhawls,
ad fome woollen cloths ; but there is a general want of induftry ; and
the fine undermoft hair of the goats, from which fhawls are manufa@tured,
ichiefly fent to Cafhmir. ‘The principal exports are to China, confifting
ff gold duft, diamonds, pearls, l:.mb fkins, fome mufk, and woollen cloths.
Many of the Chinefe imports are manufactured articles. To Nipal,
Tiet fends rock falt, tincal or crude borax, and gold duft ; receiving in
return bafe filver coin, copper, rice, and coarfe cotton cloths. Through
Nipal is alfo carried on the chief trade with Bengal, in gold dutt, tincal,
udmufk. The returns are broad cloth, f{pices, trinkets, emeralds, fap-
phires, lazulite, jet, amber, &c. With Afam in the S. E. there is no
intercourfe ; and the little trade with Bootan may rather be regarded as
internal,
Trave.] The trade with China, which is the principal, is chiefly
toduéed at the garrifon town of Sining, in the wettern extremity of
the province of Shenfi, where tea is greedily bought by the Tibetians,
There is no mint in Tibet, as fuch an inftitution is prevented by religious
prejudices; but the bafe filver of Nipal is current throughout the
country.
Cumann’ The climate of Bootan may be faid to be temperate,
shen compared with that of Tibet Proper ; yet the winters are very fevere
tren in the former country. ‘¢ In the temperature of the feafons in Tibet
aremarkable uniformity prevails, as well as in their periodical duration
nd return, The fame divifion of them takes place lan as in the more
ion of Bengal. ‘The {pring is marked, from March to May,
bya variable atmofphere ; heat, thunder ftorms, and occafionally with
refrething fhowers, From June to September is the feafon of humidity,
* Rennel, 306, + Bernouilli, iii, 227,
Bb4 when
346 CHINESE EMPIRE.
when heavy and continued rains fill the rivers-to their brim, which run
off from hence with rapidity to affift in ne Bengal. From Of.
ber to March a clear artd uniform fky fucceeds, feldom obfcured either },.
fogs orclouds. For three months of this feafon a degree of cold is fal;
far greater perhaps than is known to prevail in Europe. Its extrem
feverity is more particularly confined to the fouthern boundary of Tibet.
near that elevated range of mountains which divides it from Afym,
Bootan, and Nipal *.°’
Thus the diftinguifhing characteriftic of the climate is that ex. |
treme dry and parching cold which, under the latitude of 26°, near
the’torrid zone of antiquated geography, rivals that of the Alps in lati.
tude 46°.
Face OF THE CoUNTRY.] From the fame intelligent traveller ye
learn that Bootan, with all its confufed and fhapelefs mountains, jis oo,
vered with eternal verdure, and abounds in forefts of large and lofty
trees +. The fides of the mountains are improved by the hand of jp.
duftry, and crowned with orchards, fields, and villages. Tibet Proper,
on the contrary, exhibits only low rocky hills, without any vifible vege. §
tation, or extenfive arid plains of an afpe&t equally ftern; while the bleak
and cold climate conftrains the inhabitants to feek refuge in theltered
vales and hollows, or amid{t the warmeft afpeéts of the rocks. Yet Tj.
bet produces dip abundance and variety of wild fowl and game; with
numerous flocks of fheep and goats, and herds of cattle, and is infeed
by many beafts of prey; while in Bootan few wild animals are found
except monkeys, and a few pheafants. Tibet Proper mutt indeed be
confidered as a mineral country, the mountains prefenting a peculiar naked
afpedt, indicative of rich ores.
Soit.] The nature of the foil here prohibits the progrefs of agri
culture. The vales are commonly laid under water on the approach of |
winter : in the {pring they are ploughed and fown, while frequent fhowers,
and a powerful fun, contribute fpeedily to mature the crops}. The
autumn being clear and tranquil, the harveft is long left to dry on the
ground, and when fufficiently hardened is trod out by cattle. The
courfe of cultivation is wheat, peas, and barley ; rice being confined toa
more fouthern {oil.
Rivers.] The chief river of Tibet is, beyond all comparifon
the Sampoo or Berhampootar, which rifing in the weftern regios,
from the fame lofty mountains that give fource to the Ganges, pro.
ceeds in an E, and S. E. direétion for about the fpace of 1o0o Englih
miles, to the confines of Tibet and Afam, where it bends S. W,, and
flows into the eftuary of the Ganges, after a farther courfe of about 4o0
Britith miles.
The Hoan Ho and Kian Kw of the Chinefe alfo derive their ori.
gin from the eaftern boundaries of Tibet. Of the other rivers little
is known ; but the great Japanefe river of Cambodia, or Maykaung
of Laos; that of Nou Kia, fuppofed to pafs near Martaban into the
ulph of Pegu; and the Jrrawady of this lait country, are all be.
Feved to derive their fources from the mountains of ‘Tibet, which
may be {tyled the Alpsof Afia. Nor mutt it be forgotten that anotier
large river, called the Sardjoo or Gagra, which after a courle of
about 600 miles, nearly parallel on the E. with that of the Ganges,
joins it near Chupra, alfo derives it {pring from the lofty weftern moux
tains of Tibe.,
* Turner, a00,
+ P. 216, j Ib, 354.
Lakss
LAKES. ]
moft confiderat
go Britifh ‘nile
depitted many
there certainly
horax. Equal
maps call Jamdi
trench, of abou
about twelves 1
Even the {mal
frozen to a gre
MounTAINS
been repeatedly
neation of theig
bend in the for
frontiers of Ay
Sampoo a paral
tremities abour
pears as ufual tc
Koiran.
From thefe
Alps, and thei
in the general m
p’Anville from
quoted.
ForEsTs. }
fore(ts containin
feveral peculiar
bably prefents {
tain the fources «
generally applic
ZooLoGy. } ~
keys; but Tibe
are of a {mall fi
obitinacy. Th
numerous, comr
and the mutton
latter food is ge
difagreeable in t
The goats a
which is manuf
coarfe coat. N
Yak by the Tat:
flowing and glo:
todrive away th
do not low; bu
the breed is call
The mufk de
two long curve
which feem int
the body fome
the quills of th
male, is formed
ich run
n Oéto.
ither by
1 is felt,
extreme
Tibet,
Afam,
that eX.
6, Near
8 in lati.
eller \e
8) 18 co.
nd lofty
id of in.
- Proper,
ble vege.
the bleak
fheltered
Yet Ti.
ne; with
3 infelted
are found
indeed be
iar naked
3 of agri.
proach of |
fhowers,
t. The
ry on the
le. The
fined toa
mparifon
n region,
eS, tds
D Englith
W,, and
bbout 400
their ori
vers little
faykaung
h into the
e all bee
Mt, which
t another
courle of
b Ganges,
rn moun
Lakes,
TIBET. 377
Lakes. ] ‘Thefe Alpine regions, contain, as ufual, many lakes, the
mot confiderable being reprefented under the name of Terkiri, about
go Britifh ‘miles in reat and 25 broad. The Chinefe lamas have alfo
depicted many other lakes in the northern parts of the country ; where
there certainly exifts one very fingular, which yields the tincal or crude
horax. Equally uncommon is the lake to the S. of Laffa, which our
napscall Jamdre or Palté. This ftrange lake is reprefented as a wide
trench, of about two leagues broad, every where furrounding an ifland of
shout twelves leagues in diameter ; if true, a fingular feature of nature.
Even the {maller lakes in the fouth of Tibet Proper are in the winter
frozen to a great depth.
Mountains.] ‘The vaft range of Tibetian mountains have already
heen repeatedly mentioned ; but there is no accurate geographical deli-
pation of their courfe and extent. Thofe in the weft and fouth feem to
tend in the form of a crefcent, from the fources of the Ganges to tlie
frontiers of Afam, ina N. W. and S. E. direétion. To the north of
Sampooa parallel and yet higher ridge feems to extend, the northern ex-
tremities abounding with large frozen lakes. The chief elevation ap-
pears as ufual to be central, to the fouth of the lake Terkiri, being called
<oiran,
ges thefe great ranges many branches extend N. and S. as in the
Alps, and their names may perhaps be traced, but with little accuracy,
in the general map of Tibet, and atlas of the provinces, drawn up by
p’Anville from the fketches of the miffionaries, and already repeatedly
uoted.
V Forests. } Bootan, the fouthern province of Tibet, abounds with
forelts containing many European trees, though the oak be wanting ; and
feveral peculiar to Afia. Nipal, the adjoining province to the welt, pro-
bably prefents fimilar features. The high fnowy mountains which con-
tain the fources of the Ganges are perhaps barren of vegetation, a character
generally applicable to Tibet Proper.
Zoo.ocy. ] ~ In Bootan few wild animals are obfervable, except-mon-
keys; but Tibet abounds with game of various defcriptions. The horfes
are of a {mall fize, or what we term ponies, but fpirited to a degree of
obitinacy. The cattle are alfo diminutive. The flocks of fheep are
numerous, commonly {mall, with black heads and legs; the wool foft,
andthe mutton excellent. It is a peculiarity of the country that the
latter food is generally eaten raw. When dried in the frofty air it is not
difagreeable in this ftate, to an European palate *.
The goats are numerous, and celebrated for producing a fine hair,
which is manufaCtured into fhawls, and which lies beneath the exterior
coarfe coat. Nor mutt the fiugular breed of cattle be forgotten, called
Yak by the Tatars, covered with thick long hair ; the tail being peculiarly
flowing and glofly, and an article of luxury in the eaft, where it is ufed
to drive away the flies, and fometimes dried for ornaments, Thefe cattle
do not low; but, when uneafy, make a kind of grunting found, whence
the breed is called the dos grunniens.
The mufk deer delights in intenfe cold. This valuable animal has
two long curved tufks, proceeding downward from the upper jaw,
which feem intended to dig roots, his ufual food. The figure of
the body fomewhat refembles the hog, while the hair approaches
the quills of the porcupine. The mufk, which is only found in the
male, is formed in a little tumour at the navel; and is the genuine and
® Tyrer, 302,
authentic
378 CHINESE EMFIRE.
authentic article fo ftyled, being commonly black, and divided by thin
cuticles *.
The lakes abound with water fowl in the fummer, many of which may
perhaps be new to zoology ; and little is difcovered concerning the fh
and infects of this fingular country.
Mineratocy.] The mineralogy is better known from the account
appended to Mr. Turner’s Journey in 1783, from which it appears that
Bootan does not probably contain any metal except iron, and a {mal}
portion of copper ; while Tibet Proper, on the contrary, feems to
abound with rich minerals. Gold is found in great quantities, fome.
times in the form of duft, in. the beds of rivers, fometimes in large
maffes, and irregular veins. ‘There is a lead mine, two days journey
from Tefhoo Lumboo, the ore being galena. Cinnabar, rich in quick.
filver, is alfo found ; and there are ftrong indications of copper. Rock
falt is another produ& of Tibet. But in general the metals cannot be
worked, as there is a complete deficiency of fuel; and coal would be far
~ more precious than gold.
The mott peculiar produ& of Tibet is tincal, or crude borax ; con.
eerning which Mr. Sanders, who accompanied Mr. Turner, gives the
following interefting information. ‘The lake from whence tincal and
rock falt are collected, is about fifteen days journey from Tethoo. Lun.
boo, and to the northward of it. It is encompafled on all {ides }
rocky hills, without any brooks or rivulets near at hand; but its wa.
ters are fupplied by f{prings, which being {faltifh to the tafte are not ufed
by the natives. The tincal is depofited or formed in the bed of the lake;
and thofe who go to collet it dig it up in large maffes, which they after.
wards break into {mall pieces for the convenience of carriage, expofing it
tothe airto dry. Although tincal has been collected from this lake for
a great length of time, the quantity is not perceptibly diminifhed , and
as the cavities made by digging it foon wear out, or fill up, it is an opi.
nion with the people that the formation of frefh tincal is going on. They
have never yet met it in dry ground, or high fituations, but it is found in
the fhalloweft depths, and the borders of the lake ; which deepening
gradually from the edges towards the centre, contain too much water to
admit of their fearching for the tincal conveniently ; but from the deepef
parts they bring rock falt, which is not to be found in fhallows, or near
the bank. The waters of the lake rife and fall very little, being fup.
plied by a conftant and unvarying fource, neither augmented by the influx
of any current, nor diminifhed by any ftream running fromit. The
lake, I was affured, is at leaft 20 miles in circumference 5 and, ftanding
in a very bleak fituation, is frozen for a great part of the year. The
people employed in collecting thefe falts are obliged to defift from their
labour fo sit as Oétober, on account of the ice, Tincal is ufed in
Tibet for foldering, and to promote the fufion of gold and filver,
Rock falt is univerfally ufed for all domettic purpofes in Tibet, Bootan,
and Nipal t.”’
MEDICAL WATERS.] There are many medical waters in various parts
of this extenfive country; nor is their falutary ufe unknown to the
natives.
* Turner, 208. + Ib, 406,
Names — E whe
HE king.
by moft
has in confeq
ance demands,
afpire to fuperi
from the fing
in the arts of
nefe iflands ma
Ireland, formir
Afia, like that
Nor are ample |
Thunberg.
NaMgEs.] |
meations Japan
bitants themfel
Jepuen.
Extent. }
N, latitude ; an
the 142d degree
ifles, it prefents
termed Saikokf,
far the moft imp
former. The
voyages, accord
two degrees, or
kokfis about 9¢
ile of Nipon i
miles; but is fo
affumed above
number. ‘Lhefe
inthe moft civili
To the N. o
which having re
fubje&t to Japa
conlidered as a
empire.
OniGINAL PO
little illuftrated
Chinefe, though
diftinét. But if
latter with the C
Japanefe may ha
y thin
h may
he fi
count
s that
\ {mall
Ms to
fome.
large
urey
quick.
Rock
not be
be far
5 COn-
ves the
val and
Lum.
des by
1tS wa-
ot ufed
e lake ;
y after.
ofing it
lake for
dy and
an opi
They
lound in
epening
ater to
deepeft
or near
{up-
iar
» The
tandin
The
m their
ufed in
filver,
Bootan,
§ parts
to the
( 379 )
JAPAN.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY. ¢
Namese— Extent.— Original Population. — Progreffiive Geography. — Hi/-
torical Epochs and Antiquities.
HE kingdom, or, as it is by fome ftyled, the empire of Japan, has
T by moft geographers been clafled among the Afiatic ifles, and
has in confequence been treated with more brevity than its import-
ance demands, for, excepting China, no exifting Afiatic monarchy can
afpire to fuperior rank, or is more calculated to excite rational curiofity
fom the fingularity of its government, abundant population, progrefs
in the ats of life, and peculiar manners of the people. The Japa-
nefe ilands may in fome meafure be compared with Great Britain and
Ireland, forming a grand infular power near the eaftern extremity of
Afia, like that of the Briti‘h iflesnear the weftern extremity of Europe.
Nor are ample modern materials wanting in the travels of Kempfer and
hunberg.
pee Marco Polo, the father of modern Afiatic geography,
mentions Japan by the name of Zipangri, or Zipangu. | Ȣ inha-
bitants themfelves call it Nipon or Nifon, and the Chinefe Sippon and
epuen. '
rans This empire extends from the 3cth to the 41ft degree of
N. latitude ; and, according to the moft recent maps, from the 131i to
the 142d degree of E. longitude from Greenwich. Befides many fmaller
ifles, it prefents two confiderable ones in the S.W., that of Kiufiu «alfo
termed Saikokf, or the weftern country), and that of Sikokf. But by
far the moft important ifland is that of Nipon, to the N.E. of the two
former. The geography of Kempfer has been corrected by recent
voyages, according to which the length of Kiufiu from N. to S. is about
two degrees, or 140 Britifh miles; the greateft breadth about go. Si-
kokf is about go Britifh miles in length by half the breadth. ‘The grand
ile of Nipor is in length from S. to N.E. not lefs than 750 Britifh
miles; but is fo narrow in proportion, that the medial breadth cannot be
afumed above 80, though in two projecting parts it may double that
number. ‘I’hefe iflands are divided into provinces and diftriéts, as ufual
inthe moft civilized countries. ;
To the N. of Nipon is avother large ifle, that of Jeflo, or Chicha,
which having received fome Japanefe colonies, is generally regarded as
fubje&t to Japan; but being inhabited by a favage people, is rather
confidered as a foreign conquelt than as a part of this civilized
empire.
Oiatiie POPULATION. |] The original population of Japan has been
little illuftrated ; but the Japanefe feem to be a kindred race with the
Chinefe, though, according to Kempfer, the languages be radically
diftiné. But if compared with that of Corea, the neareft land, and the
latter with the Chinefe, perhaps a ep might be obfervable. The
th
t
Japanele may have migrated from the continent, when both the Chinefe
I and
380 JAPAN.
and themfelves were in the earlieft ftages of fociety ; and the complete
infular feparation may have given rife to a language rendered peculiar by
the progrefs of a diftin& civilization.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY.] Before the account publifhed py
Kempfer, Japan had been imperfectly explored !)/ the Portuguefe 5 ang
fince 1730, the date of Kempfer’s publication, any important improve.
ments have been made.
HisrorgcaL erocus.] The hiftory of thei: cwn country is univer.
fally ftudied by the Japanefe ; and Kxmpter has produced an elaborate
abftraé, divided into three epochs, the fabulous, the doubtful, and the
certain.
The firlt is wholly fictitious. The iecond, or uncertain epoch, is hy
Kempfer interwoven with the Chinefe hiftory ; this part of his work d¢.
monttrating that the Japanefe themfeives at leaft acknowledge their G0»
vernment and civilization to have been derived from China. Sin Noo,
one of thefe Chinefe monarchs, admitted by the Japanefe into their
annals, is reprefented with the head of a bull, or with two horns, ag
having taught the ufe of agriculture and herds * 3 perhaps the fimple ang
natural origin of the Jupiter Ammon, and fimilar images of claffical
antiquity.
The third, or certain period, begins with the hereditary fucceffion of
the ecclefiaftical emperors, from the year 660 before the Chrittian era,
to the year of Chrift 1585, during which 107 princes of the fame lineage
governed Japan. At the laft period the fecular princes affumed the {p.
preme authority. In general the reigns are pacilic; though at ver
diftant intervals the Mandfhurs and Coreans occafionally invaded Japan,
but were always defeated by the valour of the inhabitants. In the reign
of Geuda, the nineteenth Dairi, or fpiritual emperor, the Monguls under
Mooko attempted a grand invafion of Japan, after having conquered
China about fourteen years befose. The number of fmall veffels is ey.
aggerated to 4000, and that of the army to 240,000; and it is pros
bable that numerous Chinefe junks contained a formidable army of Mon.
uls. But they were difperfed and almoft wholly deftroyed by a
Fadeus tempeft, which the Japanefe pioufly afcribed to the gods their
protectors. In 1585 the generals of the crown, or fecular emperors,
who were alfo hereditary, affumed the fupreme power ; the Dairis bein
afterwards confined, and ftriftly guarded, that they might not re-affume
their ancient authority.
AytTiquitigs.] The temples and palaces being conftrucied of wood,
few monuments of antiquity can remain. Some of the catties of the
nobility have walls of earth or ftone ; but the moft ancient relics ave pro. |
bably the coins and idols.
# Kempfer, i. 231, French tranflation,
CHAP.
Rebgion. — Go
oy Nav
RELIGION. ]
creator. Th
Budfdo. The
little claims an
as mediators, t
form of religio
will not touch
The priefts
trufted with t
cheerful, and e
delight in difpe
three or four o
kept as a hol
a in the Rom
the fame.
The fec&t of ]
with that of Bu
1000 years bef
Corea it has be
metempfychofis
the bodies of ani:
Soon after the
mifionaries arrive
their doétrine till
perfecutions had
ate {aid to have y
fpired with the v
their ftation, enc
councils of the na
which they profe
views, and after
exiltence of the
icompatible witl
that memorable ey
and the crofs, y
foot; but it is
this ceremony.
GoveRrNMENT.
narch of the coun
Duairis, pontiffs, «
appointed by the ]
§ clon, Yet occ
Japan has been ra
were of fix orders
plete
ur by
| by
; and
rove.
niver-
orate
d the
is by
rk de.
HY 90.
Non,
» their
Ns, as
dle and
laifical
ion of
an ray
lineage
the {u.
it very
Japan,
e reign
$s under
1quered
8 18 CX
18 pros
f Mon.
1 by a
ds their
perors,
8 being
-affume
wood,
of the
Rve pds }
JAPAN. 381
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Rebgion. — Government. -— Laqws. -— Population. -—C Olonies. — Army, ——
Navy. — Revenues. — Political {mportance and Relations.
HE eftablifhed religion of Japan is a polytheifm,
RELIGION. ] T joined with the Slnowtecdgrantt of ‘ topes
creator. ‘There are two principal feéts, that of Sinte and that of
Budido. The firfl acknowledge a fupreme being, far fuperior to the
jitle claims and worfhip of men, whence they adore the inferior deities
ag mediators, the idea of a mediator being indifpenfable in almoft every
form of religion. ‘They abftain from animaf food, deteft blpodthed, -and
will not touch any dead body *. ;
The priefts are either fecular or monaftic ; the latter alone being en-
truted with the myfteries. The feftivals and modes of very are
cheerful, and even, gay; for they regard the gods as beings who folely
delight in difpenfing happinefs. Befides the firft day of the year, and
three or four other grand feftivals, the firft day of the month 1s always
kept as a holiday. There are feveral orders of monks and nuns,
a3 in the Roman Catholic fyftem; but human nature is every where
fame.
Wie fe& of Budfdo was imported from Hindoftan, being the fame
with that of Budha or Boodh, reported to have been in Ceylon about
jooo years before the birth of Chrift. Paffing through China and
Corea it has been mingled with foreign maxims, but the tenet of the
metempfychofis remains: wicked fouls being fuppofed to migrate into
the bodies of animals, till they have undergone a due purgation.
Soon after the difcovery of this country by the Portuguefe, jefuitic
mifionaries arrived in 15493 and their fucceffors continued to diffufe
their doctrine till 1638, when 37,000 Chriftians were maffacred. Several
perfecutions had formerly taken place, and in 1590 upwards of 20,00
ate faid to have perifhed. The pride and avarice of the Portuguefe con-
fired with the vain ainbition of the jefuits, (who, not contented with
their ftation, endeavoured to introduce themfelves into the governing
councils of the nation,) firft to contaminate and render odious the religion
which they profefftd, in its pure principles effentially oppofite to fuch
views, and afterwards to produce this melancholy cataftrophe; the
eiltence of the Chriftian faith being through fuch perverfion found
incompatible with that of a ftate otherwife univerfally tolerant. Since
that memorable epoch Chrittianity has been held in fupreme deteftation ;
and the crofs, with its other fymbols, are annually trampled under
foot; but it is a fable that the Dutch are conftrained to join in
this ceremony.
GovernmEeNT.] The Kubo, or fecular emperor, is now fole mo-
narch of the country : but till near the end of the feventeenth century the
Dairis, pontiffs, or {piritual monarchs, held the fupreme authority, being
appointed by the high ecclefiaftical court according to their laws of fuc-
cefion, Yet occalionally the appointment has been controverted ; and
@ Japan has been ravaged by many civil wars. The ecclefiattical dignities
were of fix orders, fome belonging to particular offices, others merely
* Thunberg, iv. 19.
honorary,
382 JAPAN.
honorary. The fecular prince is accuftomed to confer, with the confent
of the dairi, two honorary ranks, equivalent to our noblemen and
knights. The ecclefiaftical court is chiefly occupied with literary pur.
fuits, the dairi refiding at Miaco; and his court remains, though not in
its former fplendour. aoe
The government of each province is intrufted to a refident
who is itri¢tly refponfible for his adminiftration, his family remainin
at the emperor’s court as hoftages; and he is himfelf obliged to
make an annual appearance, the journey being performed with great
pomp, and accompanied with valuable prefents. The emperor, ag jn
the feudal times of Europe, derives his chief revenue from his own
eftate, confifting of five inferior provinces, and fome detached towns,
Each prince enjoys the revenues of his fief or government, with
which he fupports his court and military force, repairs the roads and
defrays every civil expence. The princes of the firft dignity are
ftyled Daimio, thofe of inferior rank Siomio, They are generally
hereditary, but the Siomios are not only obliged to leave their fy.
milies at Jedo the capital, but to refide there themfelves for fx
months in the year. The fingular conftitution of Japan therefor
confifts of an abfolute hereditary monarchy, fupported by a numbe §
Prince, ,
of abfolute hereditary princes; whofe jealoufy of each other’s power §
confpires, with domeftic pledges, to render them bfervient to one
fupreme.
Lava The fuperiority of the laws of Japan over thofe of
Europe has been loudly proclaimed by Kempfer. The parties them.
felves appear, and the caufe is determined without delay. Yet Kemp.
fer’s information on this head is defective, as he does not mention any
code of laws. Thunberg informs us that the laws are few, but ri ily
enforced, without regard to perfons, partiality, or violence *, Mot
crimes are punifhed with death, but the fentence muft be figned by th
privy council at Jedo. Parents and relations are made anfwerable for
the crimes of thofe whofe moral education they ought to have fuperin.
tended. The police is excellent, there vot only being a chief magif
trate of each town, but a commifflary of each ftreet, eleéted by the
inhabitants to watch over property and tranquillity. T'wo inhabitants in
their turn nightly patrole the ftreet to pene againit fire,
The beft proof that the laws are falutary 18 that few crimes are com.
mitted, and few punifhments are infli¢ted. The brief code, according
to Thunberg, is poited up in every town and village, in large letters, on
a {pot furrounded with rails +. nae
Poruation.] The population of the Japanefe empire, like that of
other Afidtic liates, cannot be treated with much precifion. Ancient
and modern travellers feem to have pafle* this fubjeét in filence. Per
haps the Japanefe have fome prejudice againit any enumeration, or
choofe from political views to bury it in obfcurity; while the Chi.
nefe, with like defign, may perhaps magnify the population of their
country. <All travellers however agree that the population is fur.
priling, and though a great part of the country be mountainous, yet
even the mountains are the objects of obftinate cultivation, Thun
berg obferves that the capital, Jedo, is faid to be 63 Britih mils
in circumference, and at any rate rivals Pekin in fizet. oy of
the villages are three quarters of a mile in length; and fome fo long
that it requires feveral hours to walk threugh them; and thefe large
2 Ib iii, 262.
® Thunborg, iv. 64. + Ib. iv, 72.
villag
a
villages freq
the number
and the tok
more crowde
Varenius the
re(tin as to
thorities eftir
governors at
emperor mait
in all a regu
is probable t:
population, tl
the army dov
lation may all
formed, by fu
and the forme:
the population
CoLonigs. ]
where the Japs
their own, and
colonies may b
of the Indian
theoretic,
Army.) ‘J
more than half
larly brave and
powers, is bene
ern, fo that |
the Chinefe, th
how they could
Formofa, and e
REVENUES. ]
Varenius, accor
tons of gold, o
ton at only 10,¢
ling, beides the
to the emperor,
tatlonal, being «
peror however,
iderable treafurg
or thayls, each
four fhillings an
kind generally e
the real weight ¢
the numerous ar
_PouiticaL imi
litical relations w
navy, its external
ated,
* Thunberg, ii, a4
t Thunberg iv, 8.
thoufands of millions ¢
this cslculation implies
JAPAN. 383
onfent
Nand 43
y pur.
Not in
villages frequently occur at very fhort diftances. Kampfer fays that
the number of people daily travelling on the highways is inconceivable,
and the tokaido, the chief of the feven great roads, is fometimes
more crowded than the moft frequented ftreets of European capitals *.
Varenius the Seguran os who juftly efteemed this country fo inte-
eo eNO a A REGEN ee ee ttt Ma ne a
prince, , refting as to deferve a particular defcription, has from the beft au-
naining thorities eftimated the ftanding army maintained by the prigces and
ed to governors at 368,000 infantry, and 38,000 radon dh while the Kubo
1 great emperor maintains 100,009 foot, and 20,000 horfe: thus conftituting
9 8 in in all a regular force of 468,000 infantry, and 58,000 cavalry}. It
is OWn is probable that this army does not bear a greater proportion to the
towns, opulation, than that of an European ftate in time of peace; and as
ty with the army doubles that of France under the monarchy, fo the popu-
ads and lation may alfo be double. | Perhaps a more fafe eftimate may be
nity are formed, by fuppofing the population of Japan to equal that of Chinas
enerally and the former country being about one tenth part the fize of the latter,
their fa. the population will be about 30,000,000.
for fix Cotonits.] Though the national laws prohibit emigration, yet
herefore where the Japanefe make conquefts, they feem to regard the country as
number JHMM theirown, and to form fettlements without hefitation, Hence Japanic
8 power colonies may be found in Jeffo, and other adjacent ifles: nay even in ifles
L to one of the Indian archipelago, fo that their laws, asin China, feem rather
theoretic.
thofe of & Army.) ‘The army has been already mentioned as amounting to
ies then. more than half a million; and the charaéter of the people is fingu-
t Kamp. larly brave and refolute. The navy, like that of the other oriental
ition any owers, is beneath notice. The Japanefe veffels are open at the
9 nt ern, fo that they cannot bear a boifterous fea; and though, like
e 0
the Chinefe, they have the ufe of the compafs, .yet it is inconceivable
how they could in former times, make voyages, as is aflerted, to
Formofa, and even to Java.
Revenues. ] The revenues of this empire are minutely itated by
Varenius, according to panes and provinces, the fum total being 2,834
tons of gold, on the Flemifh mode of computation; and taking the
ton at only 10,0001. fterling, the amount would be 28,340,0001. fter-
ling, bebides the provinces and. cities which are immediately fubjeé&
tothe emperor. Thefe revenues muft not however be confidered as
tatlonal, being only yielded in coin to the various princes. The em-
pror however, betides the large revenues of his provinces, has a con-
liderable treafure in gold and filver, difpofed in chefts of 1000 taels,
or thayls, each being nearly in value to a Dutch rix dollar, or about
four fhillings and four-pence Englifh money. As the frenzy of man-
kind generally expends the public revenue in the fupport of an army,
the real weight of the Japanefe refources may beft be eftimated from
the numerous army fupported {.
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] Japan maintains no po.
litical relations with avy other ftate ; and confifting of iflands without a
un iy external political importance is of courfe confined, if not anni-
ilated.
ed by the
erable for
{uperin.
ef magif.
d by the
bitants in
B are COM: §
according
etters, on
e that of
Ancient
ce. Per
ration, ot
the Chie
of their
nis fur.
nous, yet
Thune
itith miles
Many 7 * Thunberg, ii, 345. and iii, 318, + Defer. Jap. cap. ix.
@ fo long $ Thunberg iv, 8. computes the revenue of the erown lands at more than forty-four
hefe large thoufauds of millions of facks of rice, each fuck being about twenty pounds weight. But
this cslcwlation implies nothing to au European reader,
2
villa CHAP.
JAPAN.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms. — Language. — Literature. — Education. — Cities and
Towns. — Edifices.— Roads.— Inland Navigation. — Manufaaures and
Commerce.
: RECENT traveller has defcribed the por.
MANNERS AND CUST oms.] AV fons of this fingular people in Che
following terms*. ‘* The people of this nation are well made, a@ive
free and eafy in their motions, with ftout limbs, although their ftrength
is not to be compared to that of the narthern inhabitants of Europe,
They are of a yellowifh colour all over, fometimes bordering on brown
and fometimes on white. Ladies of diftinétion, who feldom go out i
the open air without oe covered, are perfectly white. It is by their
eyes that, like the Chinefe, thefe people are diftinguifhable. Thefe or.
gans have not that rotundity which thofe of other nations exhibit ; but are
oblong, fmall, and are funk deeper in the head, in confequence of which
thefe people have almoft the appearance of being pink-eyed. Their eves
are dark brown, or rather black ; and the eye-lids form in the great ancle
of the eye a deep furrow, which makes the Japanefe look as F they Were
fharp fighted, and difcriminates them from other nations. ‘The eyebrows
are alfo placed fomewhat higher. ‘Their heads are in general large, and
their necks fhort : their hair black, thick, and fhining, hee the ule they
Their nofes, though not flat, are yet rather thick and
make of oils.
fhort.’”
This highly civilized people muft of courfe difplay great diverfity of
charaéter, but the virtues far preponderate over the vices ; and even their
pride is ufeful, as it prevents them from ftooping to the mean tricks of
the maritime Chinefe. The Japanefe ufe great varieties of food and
fauces. ‘The matter or miftrefs of the houfe is not harafled with the
trouble of carving, the meat being previoufly cut into finall pieces, ferved
up in bafons of pig or japanned wood. ‘The general drink is facki,
or beer made of rice ; which latt article alfo fupplies the place of bread,
They ufe many kinds of vegetables and fruits. ‘The ufe of tea is alfo wi.
verfal ; but wine and fpirituous liquors are unknown. The ufe of to.
bacco feems to have been introduced by the Portuguefe ; and the practice
of fmoaking has becom: general.
The houfes of the Japanefe are of wood, coloured white, fo as to re.
femble ftone ; and, though roomy and commodious, never exeved two
itories in height, the upper ferving for lofts and garrets, and feldow being
occupied +. Each houfe forms but one room, which may be divided into
apartments at pleafure, by moveable partitions fliding in grooves, They
ufe neither chairs nor ti bles, fitting on tlraw mats, the meal being ferved
apart to each on a {mall {quare wooden faiver. In Jedo the houfes av
covered with tiles ; but the general fabric is a frame work of wood, {pli
bamboos, and clay.
The drefs confitts of trowfers : and what we call night gowns, or lool
robes of filk or cotton, are univerfally worn by both anh t. "Thefe are
fattened by a girdle ; the number being increafed according to the coll:
nefs of the weather. Stockings are not ufed ; and the fhoes are common
t Ib, ili, 247,
* Thuoberg, iii, 251, + Ib, iii, 112,
7
,
Wak round its ¢i
One lecrmess and
wules of the sun
ud
of rice ftraw.
but the hair
head: conics
of wearing’ tl
The Japan
thofe of moft
LANGUAG
Japanefe lang
monofyllabic
up by the Jef
LITER ATU
of the eriemtz
domettic econ
Japanefe is ver
vated, but has
qecuracy ; anc
permit. The a:
types, and onl
manufactures e
men In iron a
nanufactures o
known to have
telefcopes. — 'T’
{words difplay
pared from the
EpucATION,
toread and wri
gradation of pe
petition of fong
Citigs AND
entrically fitua
The houfes neve
frets. Lhe h;
dbliged to anch
this city in the
kngth, and thre
tther regions of
walls, and dite!
be followed, yet
panefe affirm
> wih
Miuco, the ry
han inland fitwa
it is the fir!
“iUhCtures, i
itt by ing literal
JAPAN.
385
gfrice ftraw. The men fhave the head from the forehead to the nape,
but the hair on the fides is turned up and fattened at the crown of the
head: conical hats made of grafs are worn on journeys, but the fafhion
of wearing the hair forms the common economical cover ing of the head.
The Japanefe feltivals, the games and theatrical amufements, equal
thofe of moft civilized nations,
ities and LANGUAGE. | eo g has publifhed a curious vocabulary of the
ures and Iapanefe language, which feems indeed to have little conneétion with the
nonofyllabic fpeech of the Chinefe. There are alfo diétionaries drawn
h up by ‘the Jefuits.
the per. Lirera?urn. ] Inthe f{ciences and literature the Japanefe yield to few
in the of the oriental nations. This fenfible people ftudy houfe-keeping, or
>, attive, fomeftic econowier, as an indifpenfible {cience ; and next to this every
ftrength Japanefe i is verfed am the hittory of his country*. Aftronomy is culti-
Europe, vated, but has not arrived at much perfection. They furvey with tolerable
ae gcouracy § and their maps are as exact as their imperfect inftruments will
by thei permit. The art of printing is ancient, but they ufe blocks, not moveable
Teh sind iypes, aud only imprefs one fide of the paper. Some of their arts and
Kanto manufactures even furpafs thofe of Europe. There are excellent work-
ty but whe ne in iron and copper; and to no eaftern country do they yield in
; of which manufactures of ilk and cotton ; while in varnifhing wood they are well
Their eyes known to have no equals. Glafs is alfo common ; and they even form
ct ge tlefcopes. ‘Che porcelain is deemed {uperior to that of China. Their
e
jwords difplay incomparable fkill ; and many varieties of paper are pre-
pared from the bark of a f{pecies of mulberry tree.
Epucation. | There are many {chools in which the children are taught
toread and write 5 their education being accomplifhed without the de-
gradation of perfon: il chattifement, while courage is initilled by the re-
pt ition of fongs in praife of deceafed heroes.
: Cirmes AND TOWNS. ] The capital city of the Japanefe empire is Jedo,
se ay entrically fituated on a bay in the S. E. fide of the chief ifland Nipon.
i a The houfes never exceed two ftories, with numerous fhops towards the
f food ag frets. The harbour is fo fhallow that an European fhip would be
diliged to anchor at the diftance of five leagues. A fire happened in
this city in the year 1772, which is faid to have confumed tix leagues in
kngth, and three in breadth : end earthquakes are liere familiar as in
ater re gions of Japan. The emperor's palace is ah rv a with itone
walls, and ditches with drawbridges, forming of a sontiderable
town, {aid to be five leagues in cireumferene: +. ‘py this, anc fimi'ar
intances of oriental population and extent, though i.e belts. Lorities
be followed, yet the reader may, with the auth pend his oclics, The
> eyebrows
large, and
he ufe they
r thick and
divertity of
led with the
eces, ferved
nk is facki,
se of bread,
is alfo uni-
» ule of to.
the practice
ho as tO fee . . , “
ms wat apanele afirm that Jeco would oc« "PY a prfow twenty-on_ ours to
eecrer wo 7 ‘ é
Id 7 bene in ak round its cirewmference, which might thue anc on to about twen’ v-
idem peng 1 ° ‘ } ‘
_ one lecywes: and that itis feven leagues in len tt by (ve in breadth. cd
divided into
pre river pafles throwyh the capital, and betic wide diteles of the
VOR. hs - piece, {applies feveral canals, There are no walls wor fortifications,
ge dpe hich are unknown in Japanefe cities; but thee are many fplendid
wood, {phi boules of the numerous princes,
Mirco, the low tual capital, and Seond city of the empire, » placed
t. han inland fituetsen about ibe miles &. W. from Jedo, on T elain.
a tp bet it is the frit commercial ey, and is celebraied for the ; yal
, ‘ i auifétures, It is alfo the feat of the imperal mint; asd the ds
to the com ut being literary, all books are printed here. Kampter interns us
he COMMON
hunberg, iv. 54 4 id igy
Pa
Q4576
¢ chat,
cer nT AE. ae At Gs ED in gn Se BBN sot eee
JAPAN.
336
that, upon an enumeration taken in 1674, the inkabitants were found to
amount to 405,642, of whom were males 182,070 ; and 223,572 females,
without including the numerous attendants of the dairi.
Nagafaki, being the neareft city to the Dutch factory in the ifle of
Dezima, has of courfe attraéted the particular attention of our travellers,
The harbour is the only one in which foreign fhips are permitted to an.
chor, a privilege now enjoyed only by the Dutch and Chinefe, The
Portuguefe trade raifed this place, from a mere village, to its prefent
fize and confequence.
The other cities in the Japanefe empire may amount to thirty or fort
but, except thofe on the route from Nagafaki to the capital, few have
heen -xplored by European travellers. Ofacca, and Sakai, boait the
name of imperial cities. .
Epirices.] Of the principal edifices of the Japanefe fome idea may
be formed from the defcriptions which our travellers give of the imperial
palace, which, like thofe of the Chinefe, confifts of many dwellings, OC.
cuping an immente fpace. The faloon of the 100 mats is 600 feet in
_length by 300 in breadth. There is a high fquare tower (a mark of
dignity not permitted here to the — though ufual at their own
courts), which confifts of feveral ttages richly decorated ; and mott of
the roofs are ornamented with golden dragons. ‘The pillars and ceilings
are of cedar, camphor, and other precious woods ; but the only furniture
confifts of white mats, fringed with gold. The emperor gives audience
in a {maller chamber, where he is feated on carpets.
The roads feem to be maintained in excellent order ; but the mountain.
ous nature of the country has peevented the formation of canals, which
indeed the univerfal proximity of the fea renders almoft unneceffary ;
otherwife fo fenfible and induttrious a nation would doubtlefs have imi.
tated the Chinefe example.
MANvuFACTURES AND ComMERCE.] The chief manufaétures of Japa,
have been already mentioned in the account of arts and fciences, The
inland commerce is very confiderable, being free and exempted from im.
pofts *. The harbours are crowded with large and fmall veffels ; the high
roads with various goods ; and the fhops well replenifhed. Large fairs
are alfo held in different places, to which there is a great contcourfe of
eople. The trade with China is the moit important, conlifting of raw
filk, fugar, turpentine, drugs, &c. while the exports are copper in bars
lacquered ware, &c. ‘Thunberg reprefents the profits of the Dutch trade
as very incontiderable, fo that the company only employed two hips
‘The Japanefe coins are of remarkable form, the gold being called Kobangs
The filver calied Kodama fomctimes reprefents Daikok, the god of riche
fitting upon two barrels of rice, with a hammer in his ri she hand, and
fack at his left. ‘I'he Seni, of copper or iron, are ftrung like the Chin
pieces of a fimilar value.
# Shuubery, iv. 196,
Chmate an
. Rivers.
Loulogys -
CLIMATE A
were not th
winter, W
ther is chang
rin, efpecia
jammer *,
hipan, and it
Thunder |
quakes are v
blervations,
greatett degr
ad the fevere
ixgenerally di
lime days eve
FACE OF T)
ntent, a8 app
Ww that the wh
malt being mo
The fac
mulets, by nu
ke focial ideas
nthe wild
hid to be ra
i manure td
the highett
ot barren and
uw even moit
tlefiattical im
farmer culti
MMOs ¢ and
pre indultr ie: ig
uture of exe
pails into the
attained th
whole beneti
y.
The fides of t
| plats fown
ora moft of thd
greatelt afto
Ice is the chid
) The {wee
* turnips, ca
JAPAN.
e found to
72 females,
CHAPTER IV.
the ifle of NATURAL GEOGRAPHY,
ean Climate and Seafons.-—Face of the Country.-—»Soil and Agriculture.
nefe The " Rivers--— Lakes. —~ Mountains. -— Volcanoes. —- Fore/ts.-—- Botany, —
its prefent Laology» — Mineralogy. — L/les.
HE heat of furmmer is in Japan extreme-
(MATE AND SEASONS. | t ly violent, and would be infu »portable,
yere not the air cooled by the fea breezes. Equally fevere is the cold
winter, When the wind blows from the north or north-eaft. The wea.
ty or forty;
al, few have
‘iy boat the
me idea may ier is changeable thpaugnaus te year ; and there are abundant falls of
the imperial ria, efpecially in the atfaki, or rainy months, which begin at_mid-
|wellings, oc. fim iunmer *. This copious moifture is the chief caufe of the fertility of
s 600 feet in Manan, and its confequent high degree of population.
Thunder is not unfrequent ; and tempefts, hurricanes, and earth-
ukes are very common, ‘Thunberg has publifhed his thermometrical
ibiervations, from which a clear idéa may be formed of the climate. The
meatelt degree of heat at Nagafaki was 98° in the month of Auguit ;
ndthe fevereft cold in January 35’. The thunder in the fuinmer months
xgenerally during the night ; and the {now will remain on the ground
hme days even in the fouth.
Face OF THE COUNTRY. } Though there are plains of confiderable
stent, a8 appears from the defeription of Miaco, yet Thunberg affures
that the whole country confifts of mountains, hills, and valleys, the
nt being moftly rocky and precipitous, and invefted with a turbulent
The face of the country is alfo diverfified with many rivers and
mets, by numerous fingular tribes of vegetation ; and generally excites
ylocial ideas of induftry, more calculated perhaps to delight the heart
nthe wild appearances of deferted nature. The foil in itfelf may
hid to be rather barren ; but the prolific fhowers confpire with labour
i manure to overcome even this obftacle. Agriculture is a fcience
the highett eftimation with this fenfible people, fo that except the
ot barren and untractable mountains, the earth is univerfally cultivated 5
Jeven moft of the meuntains and hills, Free from all feudal and
lefiattical impediments, and highly refpected by other focial claffes,
farmer cultivates the foil with freedom and iiduiiry. There are no
mmons ; and if any portion be left uncultivated it may be feized by a
minduttrious neighbour. The Japanefe mode of rmanuring is to form
iixture of excrements of ail kinds, with kitchen refufe, which is carried
pails into the field, and poured with a ladle upon the plants, when they
Ne attained the height of about fix inches, fo that they initantly receive
whole benefit. ‘Che weeding is aifo carried to the utmolt degree of
(a mark of
at their own
; and mott of
rs and ceilings
only furniture
gives audience
- the mountain
F canals, which
unneceffary ;
stlefs have imi
ures of Japan
{ciences. The
pted from im
effels ; the high
R, Large fara
at cortceurfe of
nfifting of raw
copper in bars
he Butch trade
pyed two thips
called Kobangs
hie god of riche’
hit hand, and
ike the Chin
ety,
The fides of the hills are cultivated by means of ftone walls, fupporting
| plats fown with rice or efculent roots, ‘* Thoufands of thefe beds
ara noft of their mountains, and give them an appearance which excites
greateft aftonifhment in the brealts of the fpectators.”’
Rice is the chief grains buck wheat, rye, barley, and wheat being little
4, The {weet potatoe is abundant ; with feveral forts of beans and
it, turnips, cabbages, Sc. ‘I'he rice is fown in April, and gathered
@ Thunberg, iii. 294,
Coca ia
388 JAPAN.
in November : in which laft month the wheat is fown, and reaped in Sune
f)
The barley alfo ftands the winter. From the feed of a kind of ¢ ty
lamp oil is expreffed, and feveral plants are cultivated for dyeing pg oe
are alfo cotton fhrubs and mulberry trees, which laft feed abundance wohdah the
of filk worms. The varnifh and camphor trees, the vine, the cedar, the SMM Belides ie
tea tree, and the bamboo reed, not only grow wild, but are planted for
numerous ufes.
Rivers. ] The rivers of Nipon have not been delineated with much
care. Among the few named are the Nogafa, and the Jedogawa, whieh |
pafles by Ofaka, where it is crowned with feveral bridges of cedar, fron
300 to 360 feet in length. The river Ojingawa is one of the largeft and
moft dangerous in the country, though not fubjeé like the others to fel
during rains, Fufigawa is alfo a large and rapid river, as is that called
Sakgawa. The largeit river feems to be the Jodo, or perhaps in the
German pronunciation Yodo, which flows S.W. from the central lake of,
Oitz: but our geography of the Japanefe empire is far from being com. saration of ¢
lete. Among the molt important rivers Kempfer names the Ujin (the and two othe
Ojin of Thunberg), the Oomi reported by the Japanefe hifory to hayg the woud!ner¢
burit from the ground in one night, and the Afka *, nowth and
Laxes.] One of the chief lakes feems to be that of Oitz, which emits nvers are ren
two rivers, one towards Miaco, the other towards Ofaka, and it is faidt fuion and ma
ponica, is |
mulberry a
valuable as.
white fibres
larch, the c:
ween Japan
boindary to
[lv, and jala
part of Alia
whofe berrie
be 50 Japanefe leagtes in length, cach about an hour's journey on hore ZooLoay.
back ; and the breadth is confiderable. ; found in the v
Movuntarns.] The principal Japanefe mountain is that of Fufi, co to cultivation,
vered with {now almoft throughout the year. The Faconie mountain
are in the fame quarter, furrounding a fmall lake of the fame name +
Many of the mountains are overgrown with wood ; and others cultivate
as before explained. There are feveral volcanoes, and in general the
abound with evergreen trees and crytlalline fprings.
Vorcanors.} Near Firando there is a volcanic ifland nor are othe neither ufe thei
unknown in the furrounding feast. In the province of Figo there j er drawing car
’ ; o
a volcano which conttantly emits flames ; and another, formerly a og fee vegetables. He
wool Swine
appear in the
Chinefe *, 'T'
horfes in the en
afingle Swedif
mine, in the province of ‘\fikufer. The courfe and extent of the vari of their ergs,
ranges of mountains have not been indicated. the cate ave fay
Near the lake of Oitz is the delightful mountain of Jefan; which The wolf ap
eltcemed facred, and is faid to prefent not lefs than 3000 temples (, thefe latt be ing
Forests. ] In the high fate of cultivation few foreits can appear,e MivgraLoG
cept thofe already mentioned as decorating the fides of mountains, found in abund;
Borany.] The vegetable treafures of Japan are numerous, and ha the Porturuefe
been ably explored by Kampfer and Thunberg: on account however the Dutch in fc
the enormous population of the country, and the abfolute necefity MM hpan may in ¢]
paying the utmott attention to the introduction of whatever may cont world but im ¢
bute to human fuftenance, it is not eafy tg afcertain how far feveral of too plentiful, it
efevilent plants cultivated here are truly indigenous, There are ma ot to mention t
points of refemblance between the floras of China and Japan, and t aid Wrought wit
limilarity has probai)!y been ftrengthened by a mutual intercliange of ul nition is obtaind
ful vegetables ; if indeed both countries have not rather derived fome peror, and the
their moft valuable plants from Cochin-China, or the Philippine ian Pive tine gold,
the ginger, the foy-bean, black pepper, fugar, cotton and indigo, tho hirgeit of the NG;
perhaps natives of the more fouthern regions of Afia, are cultivated h and embroidery
with great fuccefs and in vaft abundance. The Indian laurel and the ¢ “ Silver muit
phor tree are found in the high central parts of Japan, as is allo the at prefent,.as ak
The Japanefe cor
metal is dearer,
* Thunberg, i. 163, Th, ili, 164,
$ Kuinpfer, i, 166, § le. ii. 28,
4
JAPAN. 389
es tise sermix, from the bark of which exudes a gum refin that is {uppofed to be
ing 5 there the bafis of the exquifitely beautiful and inimitable black varnifh with
abundance which the inlaid cabinets and other articles of Indian luxury are covered,
cedar, the gm Belides the common {weet or China orange, anothe. fpecies, the citros ja-
planted for onica, is found wild, and almott peculiar to this country : two kinds of
mulberry are met with, both in an indigencus and cultivated ftate, the one
valuable as the favourite food of the filk worm, the other efteemed for the
yhite fibres Of its inner bark, which are manufactured into paper. The
rch, the cyprefs,, and‘weeping willow, found in all the warm regions be-
yeen Japan and the Mediterranean, here arrive at the extremity of their
joundary to the eait ; the fame may be faid of the opium, poppy, white
iy, and jalap. ‘Che trumpet flower (bignonia catalpa) is common to this
wt of Afia, and Peru; in which circumitance it refembles the vanilla,
wiofe berries form an article of commerce, being largely ufed in the pre-
svation of chocolate. The tallow-tree, the plantain, the cocoa-nut tree,
wndtwo other palms, the ehamerops excelfa and cycas circinalis, adorn
te woodland tracts, efpecially near the fhore, by tl:e variety of their
crowth and foliage, while the uncultivated {wamps by the fides of the
mers are rendered fubfervient to the ufes of the inhabitants by the pro-
fyion and magnitude of the bamboos with which they are covered.
ZooLocy.} It is nota little remarkable that neither fheep nor goats are
found in the whole empire of Japan; the latter being deemed mifchievous
cultivation, while the abundance of cotton recompences the want of
woo, Swine are alfo deemed pernicious to agriculture ; and only a few
appear in the neighbourhood of Nagafaki, probably iftroduced by the
Chinefe *. ‘T'heve are in general but few quadrupeds; the number of
horfes in the empire being computed by Thunberg as only equal to thofe of
alingle Swedith town. Still fewer cattle are feen; and the Japanefe
neither ufe their flefh nor their milk, but employ them only in ploughing
ar drawing carts. ‘he food contiits almoft entirely of tith and fowl, with
vegetables. Hens and common ducks are dometticated, chiefly on account
of theireggs. A few dogs are kept from motives of fuperttition ; and
the cats are favourites of the ladies.
The wolf appears in the northern pyovinces, and foxes in other parts ;
thele lat being univerfally detelted, and conlidered as demons incarnate.
MixenaLocy.} ‘ That the precious metals gold and filver are to be
found in abundance in the empire of Japan has been well known, both to
the Portuguefe, who formerly exported whole fhip loads of them, and to
the Dutch in former times. Gold is found in feveral parts, and perhaps
hpan may in this refpect contett the palm with the richeft country in the
world; but in order that this metal mzy not lofe its value, by becoming
too plentiful, it is prohibited to dig more than a certain {tated quantity 3
fot to mention that no ruetablic mine, of any kind whatever, can be opened
ad wrought without Jae emperors exprcls permifion, When this pers
niliun is obtained two-'huweds of the produce are the portion of the eme
pror, and the preprieter ef the land receives one-third for the expences,
The finett gold, together with the richett gold mines, are found on the
irgelt of the Nipon iflands near Sado, It is ufed for ‘ie mint, gliding,
uid embroidery ; but it is net carried out of the country.
“Silver muit formerly have bees found in much greater plenty than
tt prelent, as a large quantity of it was then exported from thts country,
The Japanefe confider it as being more rare than gold, although the lacter
metal is dearer, It is faid to be found in the proviuce of Bingo; and in
with much #
away which
cedar, trom
> largeft and
hers to fwelf
s that called
rhaps in the
ntral lake of
. being com.
he Ujin (the
Rory to have
5 which emits
rd it is faidto
ney on horfe
of Fufi, co
He mountain
fame name +
rers cultivated
general the
nor are othe
Figo there
rmerly a ¢0
t of the vario
‘an; which
emples ¢.
an appear, ¢
untains.
brows, and ha
int however
te neceflity (
er may cont
feveral of t
here are m
apan, and t
rclhange of U
erived fome
ippine land
indigo, thor
cultivated hi
hL and the ¢
is allo the
* Thanberg, iv, 95,
Cc 3 the
ere
39° JAPAN.
the more northerly parts towards Kattami, very rich filver mines are to be
met with. Indepesdently of thefe places the two iflands which are calleq
the gold and filver ifles, (Ginfima, Kinfima,) are faid to contain a great
quantity of both of thefe precious metals. Silver is ufed for comin
and for plating.
“‘ Copper is quite common in every part of the empire, and is rich!
impregnated with gold, conftituting the main fource of the wealth of
many provinces. It was not only formerly exported in amazing quantities
but fill continues to be exported both by the Dutch and Chinefe mer.
chants. The fineft and mott malleable is dug in Suruga, Atfingo
Kyno, Kuni. The laft fort is efteemed to be the moft malleable of
any ; whilft that from Suruga contains the greateft quantity of gold. Of
this metal are made {mall pieces of money for change ; it is ufed like. eae
wife for plating and for making utenfils, fuch as pots, kettles, &c, .
‘© Tron feems to be fcarcer than any other metal in this country, This
they are neither fond of importing, nor yet of exporting it for fale.
Of it they manufaGture fcymitars, arms, f{ciffars, knives, and various
other implements of which they ftand in need.
s¢ Brim{tone is found in great abundance in Japan.
to be met with in the northern provinces *.”?
Here are feveral warm medical wafers, which the inhabitants ufe for ya.
rious difeafes ; particularly thofe of Obamma, and thofe in the mountain
of Omfen. The natural curiofities of Japan have been little inveltigated,
as Europeans have feldom vilited the interior of the country.
Istxs.] There are many {mall ifles dependent on Japan, particularly
Pit-coal is likewife
in the S. and E.; among which is Fatfifo, the place of exile for the §
grandees, This and the other imall ifles are fcarcely knqwn except by
name,
THE BIRMAN EMPIRE.
COMPRISING THE KINGDOMS OF AVA AND PEGU.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.»
Name. —Extent.— Boundaries.—Original Inhabitants. — Progrefive Ge.
graphy. — Modern Hiflory.
N } EFORE the appearance of a recent interefting publica
aun. ] J tion +, fearcely any thing was known concerning this
JF won, y any q was 8
new empire 5 and geographers were conftrained to detail the old accounts
which ave little fatisfaétory, The Birman empire derives its name from
the Burmans, who have been long known as a warlike nation in the region
formerly {tyled lvpiA nevonD THE GANGES; the capital city of their
kingdom being Ava, or Awa, Pegu is by the natives ftyled Bagoo fj
bein the country fituated to the fouth of the former, and juilly inferred
to have been the Golden Cherfonefe of the ancients,
* Thunberg, iv, 102.
+ Symes’s Account of the Embaffy to Ava, $ Th. i. 6, Svo, edit.
Extent
EXTENT
the boundar
appears to i
latitude, ane
Greenwich ;
breadth : th
counts. It
and is in mat
Peninfula *.’
The geog
name for the
ill defeérive
from Afam,
borders on 'T
little river Nz
in Bengal ; a
ealtern boun
fufice to obfe
power in Afia
bably extend j
by deferts an
Chochin-Chin
ORIGINAL
been little lu
from thofe of
tional origins,
countries +.
PROGRESSIN
been known t
knowledge in
cerning this 5
the Portugrue
D’Anville has
wom for mar
thall inveltigrat
History. }
length in the
difplays the or
ing to prefent!
that the Birm
king of Pegu,
tion in the for
when they to
thefe countries
tlements in vari
factories at Siri
The Birman
about the year
fadory at Siria
* Symes’s Accou
t See vol. vi. of
tCeograph des
§ The French jnt
fioned many defeript
There is one of Tun
pare to te
are called
1 a great
rT Cotning
d is richly
wealth of
quantitics,
inefe mer.
_ Atfingo,
alleable of
gold. Of
ufed like.
) &e. .
ry. This
t for fale,
nd various
is likewife
ufe for va.
e mountain
veltigated,
particularly
‘ile for the
except by
reffive Gers
g publica.
erning this
daccounts,
name from
the region
y of their
Bagoot ;
ly inferred
dit.
Extest
7
BIRMAN EMPIRE. 393
EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES. ] It is difficult to afcertain with precifion
the boundaries of the Birman empire. Mr. Symes informs us that “ it
appears to include the {pace between the oth and 26th degree of north
titude, and between the g2d and 107th degrees of longitude eaft of
Greenwich ; about 105 geographical miles in length and 6co in
breadth: thefe are the afcertainable limits, taken from the Birman ac-
counts. It fhould however be remarked that the breadth often varies,
and is in many places very inconfiderable on what is called the Eaftern
Peninfula *."°
The geography of what is called India beyond the Ganges, a vague
name for the wide and various regions between Hindooflsn and China, is
fill defective. ‘To the north the Birman empire igdivided-by mountains
fom Afam, a country little vifited or known; and farther to the eaft it
torders on Tibet and China. On the weit a range of mountains and the
jitle river Naaf divide the Birman poffeffions from the Britifh dominions
in Bengal ; and the limit is continued by the fea. But the fouthern and
eatern boundaries ftill remain obfcure. Amidft this uncertainty it mutt
fuffice to obferve that the Birman empire conttitutes the fifth grand native
power in Afia fince Hindoftan and Perfia have been divided, and may pro-
bably extend its authority over I.aos and Cambodia, while it remains divided
by deferts and ranges of lofty mountains from the united kingdoms of
Chochin-China and Tunquin.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population of this region has
heen little tluftrated. ‘The alphabe*, literature, and religion, are derived
from thofe of the Hindoos; but the language, the grand criterion of na-
tional origins, has not been regularly collated with thofe of the adjacent
cauntries +.
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY ]. Although this country appears to have
been known to the ancients, conftituting the utmott boundary of their
knowledge in this quarter of the globe t, yet the firft precife ideas con-
cning this part of the globe were derived from the difcoveries of
the Portuguefe, but the geography remains fo imperfeé&t that even
D’Anville has erred in the delineation ; and Mr. Syme’s work leaves
wom for many illuflrations and improvements when future travellers
hall inveftigate with care the countries beyond the Ganges §.
History.] The hiftory of the Birman empire is detailed at fome
lngth in the introduétory part of the recent publication; and as it
difplays the origin of a new and great Afiatic power it may be intereft.
ing to prefent an abftract. From the Portuguefe accounts it appears
that the Birmans, a brave and warlike race formerly fubjeé&t to the
king of Pegu, became afterwards matters of Ava, and caufed a revolu-
tion in the former country about the middle of the fixteenth century,
when they took Martaban, The Portuguefe continued to influence
thefe countries till they were expelled by the Duteh, who obtained fet-
tlements in various parts of the Birman territory ; while the Englith had
fattories at Siriam, and even at Ava.
The Birmans continued to exercife their fupremacy over Pegu till
about the year 1740, when a civil war arofe, during which the Britifh
fagtory at Sirian was deftroyed in 1744. By fome European gids the
*Symes’s Account of the Emhafl} to Ava, ii. 41}, ,
+ See vol. vi. of the Afiatic Refearchés,
{Ceograph des Grees Analyf, 139.
§ The French intercourfe with Siam, towards the ead of the feventeenth century, occas
fioned many deferiptions of that kingdom ; but the accounts of Ava and Pegu are rare,
‘There is one of Tunguin and Laos, tranflated from the Italian of Marini, Paris 2061, ¢to,
Cc4 Peguefe
392 BIRMAN EMPIRE.
Peguefe in 1750 and 1751, gained fevera’ victories over the Birmans.
and in 1752 Ava was befieged and taken; the laft of a long line of
gts kings being reduced to captivity ; but two of his fons efcaped
o Siam.
When Binga Della, king of Pegu, had completed the conquett of Ava
he returned to his own country, leaving his brother Apporaza to rete
the late capital of the Birman king. All wore the afpeét of tranquil fub.
miffion, when there fuddenly arofe one of thofe men who are defined, b
means almoft invifible, to break the ftrongeft rod of power, and to chan :
the fate of empires. Alompra, a Birman of low extraction, was the chief
of a {mall village, and was continued in this petty office by the vi@ors
With one hundred devoted followers he attacked a band of fifty Peguefe,
whom he put to the {word ; and afterwards defeated a {mall force a
againft him; and about the autumn of 1753 took poffeffion of Aya
while the Peguefe government feems te have been loft by mere infatu.
ation. After repeated defeats, Binga Della himfelf advanced againit
Alompra, and the war was conducted by fleets on the great river Irrawady
as well as by land, that of the Peguefe being utterly defeated in clofe
combat by that of the Birmans, Alompra, proceeding in his conquets,
founded the town now well known by the name of Rangoon, which fig.
ifte
ver
and
ana
the
Birn
rebu
had
rang
{WIX
Stam
hen
Cach
fuece
conf
mona
flain
T'
. : ; : : as Md
nifies «¢ victory atchieved ;”’ and foon after chaftifed the people of Caffuy, et
who had revolted from the Birman authority. In 1756 he blockaded the m
Sirian, which yielded to his arms; and after having deprived the capital
of any foreign aid by water, he advanced againtt the city of Pegu, fituated
on an extenlive plain, aud then furrounded with no mean fortifications,
Ing o
fever
: was CC
while the ftupendous pagoda of Shomadoo ferved asa citadel. This Aft
capital was invetted in Jeruary 1757, and in about three months becane and in
a prey tothe Birmans. Alomprathen proceeded to fubdue the countries
prey P p
to the eaftward as far as the three pagodas, the ancient boundary between ty
Pegu and Siam. ‘Tavoy has been fince added to the Birman policflions man im
in this quarter. fe hel
Alompra next determined to chaftife the Siamefe, for the encourage. filed |
ment thev had given to his rebellious fubjets, and ordered a flect to fail Tavoy
to Merghi, a fea-port belonging to the Siamefe, which was ealily taken, treat
and was followed by the conqueft of Tanaferim, a large and populoys htter
city, ' : ; But, v
The vitor next advanced againft the capital of Siam ; but, two days Siamef
after the fiege had commenced, Alompra was feized with a deadly difeale, Hence
which faved the Siamefe from deflruétion. He died within two days march extend
of Martaban, about the 15th May 1760, regretted by his people, who to the 4
at once venerated him as their deliverer, and as a great and victorious
monarch. This founder of the Birman empire had not completed his
fiftieth year: his perfon, itrong and well proportioned, excceded the mid.
dle fize; and though his features were coarfe, his complexion dark, and
his countenance faturnine, there was a dignity in his deportment that
became his high ftation, and which, like that of Oliver Cromwell, feems
to {pring from confcious power. Rehct
e was fucceeded by his fon Namdogee, who fuppreffed feveral infu. sin
rections, and died in 1764, leaving an infant fon, Momien, whofe uncle
Shembuen, fecond fon of the great Alompra, affumed the regency, and
afterwards the diadem. ’ Revert
Shembuen, to divert the national attention, as ufual with ufurpers, which I
declared war againft Siam ; and in 1760 two armies entered that country Aveiar,
' ’
fro the N. and S., and, bemg united, defeated the Siamefe about leven
days journcy from their capital, The Siamefe king privately a
alter
the Birmans ;
a long line of
is fons efcaped
onqueft of Ava,
oraza to govern
of tranquil fub.
are deflined, by '
er, and to change
on, was the chief
e by the victors,
of fifty Peguefe,
1 {mall force fent
offeffion of Ava,
- by mere infatu.
advanced againit
at river Irrawady,
y defeated in clofe
x in his conquelts,
ngoon, which fig.
: people of Caffay,
756 he blockaded
leprived the capital
y of Peg, fituated
mean fortifications,
isa citadel. This
ree months becaine
ubdue the countries
boundary between
Birman polichous
for the encourage.
Jered a fleet to fail
h was ealily taken,
large and populoys
m3 but, two days
ith a deadly difeale,
hin two days march
y his people, who
eat and victorious
hot completed his
exceeded the mid:
nplexion dark, and
s deportment that
r Cromwell, feems
reffed feveral infur-
bmien, whofe uncle
1 the regency, and
ual with ufurpers,
itered that country
jamefe about leven
privately witharew,
after
.
BIRMAN EMPIRE. 393
ster a blockade of two months, and the city capitulated 5 a Siamefe go-
yernor being appoiited, who {wore allegiance to the Birman fovereignty,
andengaged to pay an annual tribute.
The Chinefe, apprehenfive of the progrefs of thefe conquefts, advanced
anarmy from the province of Yunan, but were completely defaated by
the Birmans. Policy fpared the captives, who were invited to marry
Birman wives, the Hindoo prejudices being here unknown. Shembuen
rebuilt Ava Haung, or ancient Ava, the metropolis of the empire, which
tad fallen to ruin during the late commotions. The Siamefe, though
vanquifhed, remained unfubdued ; and there is an inveterate enmity be-
twist the nations, which will prevent either fervitude or alliance *, A
Siamefe prince affumed the monarchy, and in 1771 defeated the Birmans.
hembuen afterwards turned his arms to the welt, and forced the raja of
Cachar to pay homage to his power. He died at Ava in 1776, and was,
fueceeded by his fon Chenguza, whofe tyrannical conduét occafioned a
confpiracy, at the head of which was Shembuen Minderagee, the prefent
monarch, younger brother of the deceafed Shembuen. Chenguza was
fain in 1782.
The fouthern conquefts of the Birmans had already extended as far
«sMerghi, and, the northern provinces forn belonging to Siam had
heen reduced to fubjeC:ion and tribute. M agee determined to pafe
the mountains of Anoupec, and fubdue Arracan, the raja or prince be-
ing of a fupine character, and his fubjects unwatlike, though they had
never been reduced to pay homage to any foreign power. This conqueft
was commenced in 1783, and was fpeedily effected.
After this conque!t the Birman arms were again turned againft Siam,
adin 1785 a fleet was fent to fubdue the ifle of Junkfeylon, which
atries on a confiderable trade in ivory and tin, and is the only remaining
nart of Siamefe trade on this coaft. Meeting with a repulfe, the Bir-
man monarch left his capital at the head of 30,000, nien, with a train of
1ofield pieces ; but was defeated by the king of Siam, who in his turn
filed in an invafion of the viceroyalty of Martaban, which comprehends
Tavoy, Merghi, and all the Birman poffeffions to the fouth. In 179
atreaty was ratified between the Birmans and Siamefe, by which the
tter ceded the weltern maritime towns as far S. as Merghi inclufive.
But, with this exception, and that of fome northern provinces, the
Siamefe monarchy retains a confiderable portion of its ancient fame.
Hence it appears that the Birman empire can fcarcely be computed to
axtend beyond the 102d degree of longitude, and that only in the part
tothe north of Siam.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Laws. — Government. — Population. — Army. — Navy. —
Revenues. — Political Importance.
ersarane: HE Birmans follow the worfhip of Hindoftan, not
ae ] T as votaries of Brahma, but as difciples of Boodh,
which latter is admitted by Hindoos of all defcriptions to be the ninth
Avatar, or defcent of the deity in his capacity of preferver +. The
* Symes, i171, + Ibid. ii, 313,
Birmane
een PR CARE AONE
304 BIRMAN EMPIRE.
Birmans believe in the tranfmigration of fouls ; after which the radically
bad will be condemned to lafting punifhment, while the good fhall enjoy
eternal happinefs in the mount Meru. They efteem mercy to be the
chief attribute of the Divinity.
Laws.] The laws of the Birmans are infeparable from their re.
ligion, The facred verfes or forgeries of Menu are illuitrated by nu.
merous commentaries. of the Mumis, or old philofophers, and conti.
tute the Dherma Saftre, or body of laws. Both the religion and laws
roceeded originally from Ceylon, and paffed through Aracan to
iama. ‘ The Birman fyitem of jurifprudence is replete with found
morality, and is diftimguifhed above any othcr Hindoo commentary for
rfpicuity and good fenfe ; it provides fpecifically for almoft every
fea: of crime that can be committed, and adds a copious chapter of
precedents and decilions, to guide the inexperienced in cafes where there
is doubt aad difficulty. Trial by ordeal and imprecation are the only
abfurd paffages in the book ; but on the fubjeét of women it is to an
E.uropean offentively indecent ; like the immortal Menu, it tells the
prince and the magiftrate their duty, in language auitere, manly, and
energetic.’’ :
GoverxnMENT.] Though the form of government is defpotic, yet
the king confults a council of ancient nobles. There are no here.
ditary e nities nor employments ; but all honours and offices, on
the demife of the poffeffor, revert to the crown. The ¢/aloe, or
chain, is the badge of nobility, the number of iftrings or divitions de.
noting the rank of the perfon, being three, fix, nine, or twelve, while
the king alone wears twenty-four. Rank is alfo denoted by the form
and materials of various articles in common ufe.
PopuLaTion.] Colonel Symcs {tates the population of the Birman
dominions at 17,000,000, confefledly, however, the refult of a very vague
eftimate. °
ARMY AND 7 Every man in the empire is liable to military
fervice, but the regular army is very inconfiderable. During wer
the viceroys raife one recruit from every two, three, or four houtes,
which otherwife pay a fine of about 4ol. * fterling. ‘The family of the
foldier is detained as hoftages; and in cafe of cowardice or defertion
fuffer death, a truly tyrannic mode of fecuring allegiance. ‘The infantry
are not regularly clothed, but are armed with mufkets and fabies;
while the cavalry carry {pears about feven or eight feet in length. The
royal magazines are faid to contain about 20,000 miferable firelocks.
But the war boats form the chicf military eftablifhment, confitting of
about 500, formed out of the folid trunk of the teak tree, the length
being from 80 to 100 feet, but the breadth feldom exceeding ¢igit
They carry from 50 to Go rowers, the prow bejng folid, witha
flat furface, on which a piece of ordnance is mounted. Each rower
is provided with a {word and lance, and there are 30 foldiers armed
with mufkets. The attack is impetuous, and chiefly conducted by
grappling ; but the veffels being low in the water, the greatelt da»
r is that of being run down by a larger boat ftriking the bro
ide, Their naval aétions thus recal to remembrance thofe of claflical
antiquity.
Revenuse.] The revenue arifes from one-tenth of all produce, and
of foreign goods imported ; but the amount is uncertain. Yet as grantt
are commonly made in land or offices, and no money leaves the roy!
® Symes, ii, 952,
: trealury
Culiar, as they n
treafury
narch pe
Pou
and relat
merce of
tion of ti
feflions i
princes, ¢
luperiorit
But if the
over the
as being a
bours to o
as to co-op
difguits th
us to forget
be our inte
open obttri
Manners, —
Mayyers ay
Hindoos, fra
thountains, iy
withitanding
between the
at the oppofi
quifitive race,
Jealoufy, whic
within the we
fearcely to hg
and more libe
cealed from ¢
courfe with eg
other relpes
they are confid
men, and even
the evidence of
0 ‘ to
women
Pl of the
n War the men
boatt a confide
‘ae comprifes
ng interpofed
BIRMAN EMPIRE. 395
ically treafury except in cafes of great emergency, it is fuppofed that the moe
enjoy narch pofleffes immenfe treafures, ere
ye the PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] The political ithportance
and relations of the Birman empire may confiderably influence the come
cir ree merce of the ealt, and may be confidered as a barrier againft the ambi-
yy Mus tion of the Chinefe, who might perhaps be induced to extend their pof-
conti. feffions in this quarter, and might, in co-operation with the native
d laws ptinces, endanger our poffeffions in Hindoftan. Such is however the
can to faperiority of European arms, that this event is little to be apprehended.
1 found But if the Birmans, as és not improbable, were to extend their authority
ary for over the whole of that part called India beyond the Ganges, they might,
t every as being a moft brave and determined nation, prove dangerous neigh+
pter of hours to our pofleffions in Bengal, efpecially if fo far advanced in policy
re there astoco-operate with the weftern pr:ices of. Hindoftan, ‘The temporary
he only difguits therefore between the Brith and Chinefe ous not to induce
4s to an usto forget the greater danger from the Birmans, whofe empire it cannot
tells the be our intereft to enlarge, though policy will prevent our offering any
nly, and open obitruétion.
atic, yet
no here. CHAPTER III.
fives, on
tfaloe, or CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
nitions de. :
ive, while Manners. — Language. — Literature.— Cities.— Edifices.—— ManufaSures
y the form — Commerce.
the Birman Maxwzns an customs.] HE general difpofition of the Birmans
is ftrikingly contrafted with that of the
Hindoos, from whom they are feparated only by a narrow range of
thountains, in many places admitting of an eafy intercourfe *. Not.
withttanding the {mall extent of this barrier, the phyfical difference
between the nations could fcarcely be greater, had they been fituated
at the oppofite extremities of the globe. The Birmans are a lively in-
quifitive race, aétive, irafcible, and impatient » the unworthy paflion of
jealoufy, which prompts moft nations of the eaft to immure their women
within the walls of an haram, and furround them with guarde, feems
fearcely to have any influence over the minds of ‘this extraordinary
and more liberal people. Birman wives and daughters are not con-
celed from the fight of men, and are fuffered to have as free inters
courfe with each olive as the rules of European fociety admit; but in
other refpeé&ts women have juft reafon to complain of their treatment 5
they are confidered as not belonging to the fame fcale of the nation as
men, and even the law ftamps a leaveding diftin&tion between the fexes 5
the evidence of a woman being not received as of equal weight with that
of a man,
The women, though free, are generally too much occupied in the
hibours of the loom to admit of infidelity, the offepring of idlenefe,
In war the men difplay the ferocity of favages, while in peace they caa
boatt a confiderable degree of gentlenefs and civilization. The Birmaa
i comprifes twelve months of a9 of 30 days alternately, a month
ng interpofed every third year. The fubdivi n of the month is pes
Guliar, as they number the days not only from the new moon, but from
* Symes, ti. 988,
very vague
to military
uring wet
ur houtes,
mily of the
r defertion
‘he infantry
hid fabres;
gth. The
e firclocks.
onfitting of
the length
ding eight.
id, with 4
Each rower
diers armed
ae
reate
the broad
of clafial
roduce, and
i
grealury the
396 BIRMAN EMPIRE.
the full, which laft is called the decreafing moon. . They are fond
of poetry and mufic, and among their inftruments is the heem, re.
fembling the ancient pipe of Pan, formed of feveral reeds neatly joined
together, and founded by a common mouth-piece, fo as to produce a
plaintive melody.
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE.] The alphabet reprefents 33 fimple
founds, and is written from left to right like the European. The Birman
books are more neatly executed than thofe of the Hindoos, and in every
Kioul, or monaftery, there is a library or. repofitory of books. Colonel
Symes was furprifed at the number contained in the royal library, in
which the large,chefts amounted to about 100 *. The books were rey.
larly ‘claffed, and the contents of each chett were written in gold letters
on the lid.
The ftudy of the laws and natior-! religion muft of courfe conttitute
a confiderable branch of education among the great: that of the poor
feems to be utterly neglected. ;
Cities.) Ava, the ancient capital, has been permitted to fink into
ruin fince the recent foundation of Ummerapoora, on the eaitern fide of
a great river which flows into the Irrawady. ‘The new capital, with
its {pires, turrets, and lofty piafath, or obelifk, denoting the royal
prefence, feems to rife, like Venice, from the waters, being placed be.
tweena lake on the S.E. and the large river, with numerous ites on the
N.W. The lake is called Tounzemahn, from a village on the oppofite
fide, ornamented with tall groves of mango, palmyra, and cocoa trees,
The number and fingularity of the boats that were moorcd in the lake,
and the furrounding amphitheatre of lofty hills, confpired to render the
{cene grand and interefting. The fort is an exact fquare, with public
granaries and ftore rooms ; and there isa gilded temple at each corner,
nearly roo feet in height, but far inferior to others in the vicinity of
the capital. In the centre of this fort ftands the royal palace, with
a wide court in front, beyond which is the Lotoo, or hall of council,
fupported by 77 pillars, difpofed in eleven rows. ‘The extent and po
pulation of this city have not been accurately ftated, but are probably
inconfiderable.
Ava, formerly the capital, is alfo ftyled Aungwa, but is ina ftate of
ruin, ‘ The walls are now mouldering into decay, ivy clings to the
fides, and buthes, fuffered to grow at the bottom, undermine the foun
dation, and have alread uke large chafms in the different faces
of the fort, The materials of the houfes, vonfifting chiefly of wood,
had, ‘on the firft order for reMoving, been tran{ported into the new cit
of Ummerapoora ; but the ground, unlefs where it is covered wih
bufhes or rank grafs, ftill retains traces of former buildings and
ftreets. The lities of the royal palace, of the Lotoo or grand council
hall, the apartments of the women, and the {pot on which the piafath or
imperial fpire had ftood, were pointed out to us by our guide. Clunps
of bamboos, a few plantain trees, and tall thorns, occupy the greater
part of the area of this lately flourifhing capital. We obferved two
dwelling -houfes of brick and mortar, the roofs of which had fallen
in; thefe, our guides faid, had belonged to Colars, or foreigners, (n
entering one, we found it inhabited only by bats, which flew in
our’ faces, whilft our fenfe of {melling was offended by their filth, and
by the noifome mildew that hung upon the walls. Numerous temples
on which the Birmans never lay facrilegious hands, were dilapidating by
# Symery ilis 90» |
tind,
time, It
ruin *,””
Pegu,
razed by
of thefe t
kept in re
ciliate the
their ancie
been reare
the refiden
with that e
one fide of
ing is comp
the top, wi
facred um):
height of t)
Tradition b
more comp!
the print pi
convey,
One of t
though like
30,000 foul
formerly on
able comme:
ticularly cel
ftones, whicl
tains,
Martaban
harbour was
and Merghi
acity,
confiderable d
many long fieg
ceeds that o
muft Aracan,
ral canals deri
Towards th
with the diftan
the county of
to the north o
Epirices,
defcribed, "['y
architeture, ag
Symes ; who |
perhaps as {pled
reception at t
Perial prefence
correfponding
INLAND NAY
fond
mM, ree
joined
duce a
fimple
Birman
n every
Colonel
ary, In
e regus
d letters
onftitute
the poor
fink into
mn fide of
ral, with
the royal
laced be-
les on the
> oppolite
voa trees,
: the lake,
render the
ith public
ch corner,
icinity of
lace, with
bf council,
t and pos
p probably
a ftate of
ings to the
e the foun.
rent faces
of -wood,
e new cit
ered wit
dings and
and council
piafath or
. Clunps
he greatet
ferved two
had fallen
ners, Un
Hh flew iM
r filth, and
us temples
hidating by
fine,
BIRMAN EMPIRE. 307
time. It isimpoffible to draw a more ftriking pifture of defolation and
ruin *.””
Pegu, formerly the capital of a kingdom, is alfo in ruins, having been
razed by Alompra, in 1757, the praws or temples being {pared ; and
of thefe the vaft pyramid of Shomadoo has alone been reverenced and
kept in repair. ‘The prefent Birman monarch has endeavoured to con-
ciliate the Taliens, or native Peguefe, by permitting them to rebuild
their ancient city, within the {cite of which a new town has accordingly
been reared. ‘The city occupies about half its former extent, and is
the refidence of the Maywoon, or governor of Pegu. It is decorated
with that extraordinary edifice the Shomadoo, feated on a double terrace,
one fide of the lower being 1,391 feet, of the upper 684. The build-
ing is compofed of brick and mortar, oétagonal at the bate, and fpiral at
the top, without any cavity or aperture. At the fummitds a Tee, or
facred umbrella, of open iron work gilt, 56 feet: in circumference; the
height of the whole being 361 feet, and above the inner terrace 331 feet,
Tradition bears that it was founded about soo years before Chrift. A
more complete idea of this very fingular edifice may be obtained from
the print publifhed by Colonel Symes, than any verbal defcription can
convey. - ; ;
One of the chief ports of the Birman empire is Rangoon, which,
though like the capital, of recent foundation, is fuppofed to contain
30,000 fouls, Towards the mouth of thé river Pegu ftands Sirian,
formerly one of the chief ports of that kingdom, and of confider-
able commerce when in poffeffion of the Portuguefe. It was par.
ticularly celebrated for the export of rubies and other precious
ftones, which feem however to be chiefly found in the northern moun-
tains. }
Martaban was another fea port of confiderable eminence, till the
harbour was impeded by order of the Birman emperor. Of Tavoy
and Merghi little is known; but Tanaferim maintains the dignity of
acity.
The grand river of Irrawady is bordered with numerous towns and
villages. Perfain, or Baffien, ftands on its weltern branch. At a
confiderable diftance to the north is Prome, celebrated as the fcene of
many long fieges and bloody confliéts. The number of inhabitants ex-
ceeds that of Rangoon. Bagel is alfo a confilerable place. - Nor
muft Aracan, a recent acquifition, be forgotten, which is divided by feve.
ralcanals derived from ariver of the fame name. *
Towards the Chinefe frontier are Quangtong, correfponding in name
with the diftant province called Canton by Europeans; Bamoo; and, in
the county of Caffay, Munnipora. -Monchaboo is a confiderable town
to thenorth of the capital.
Epirices.] The mott remarkable edifice is the Shomadoo before
defcribed. ‘I'he Kioums are often of fingularly rich and fantaftic
architecture, as may be obferved in the definention iven by Colonel
Symes ; who has alfo publifhed a view of the grand hall of audience,
perhaps as f{plendid an edifice as can well be executed in wood. His
reception at the * golden feet,’’ fuch is the term ufed for the im.
perial prefence, was alfo remarkably grand, the pomp in fome degree
correfponding with that of the ancient Byzantine emperors.
INLAND NAVIGATION.] Nature has fo amply provided the means of
* Symes, ii, 270,
wland
398 BIRMAN ‘EMPIRE.
inland navigation, by the numerous mauths and ftreama of the grand
river Irrawady, that additional induftry feems fuperfluous.
Manuractunzs.] The Birmans excel in gilding, and feveral other
ornamental manufactures. The edifices and barges are con{truéted with
Fingular. oriental tafte and elegance; and at Chagain is a manufaQure
of marble divinities, the material being remarkably fine and almog
tranfparent.
Commence.) A confiderable trade is carried on between the capital
and Yunan, the neareft province of China, confifting chiefly in cot.
ton, with amber, ivory, precious {tones, and betel nut; the returns
being raw and wrought filks, velvets, gold leaf, preferves, paper,
and fome utenfils of hard ware. Several thoufand boats are annnal-
ly employed in tranfporting rice fram the lower provinces to fupply
Ummerapoora and the northern diftris. Salt and gnapee, a ak
of fith fauce ufed with rice, are alfo articles of internal commerce,
European broad cloth and hard ware, coarfe Bengal muflins, China
ware, and glafs, are imported by foreigners. The Birmans, like the
Chinefe, have no coin: but filver in bullion, and lead, are current.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country.— Rivers.— Lakes. — Moun.
tains. —Forefis.— Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy. —I/les.
HE vigorous health of the natives attefts
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. J the falubrity of the climate, the fea
fons being regular, and the extremes of heat and cold little known,
FAacg OF THE CouNTRY.] The face of the country affords almot
every variety, from the fwampy, Delta of the Irrawady to pleafant
hills and dales, and confiderable ranges of mountains, ‘ The foil of the
fouthern provinces of the Birman empire is remarkably fertile, and pro.
duces as luxuriant crops of rice as are to be found in the fineft parts of
Bengal. Farther northward the country becomes irregular and moun.
tainous; but the plains and valleys, particularly near the river, are ex.
ceedingly fruitful; they yield good wheat, and the various kinds of fmall
in which grow in Hirdoftas ; as likewifé legumes and moft of the
efculent vegetables of India. Sugar canes, tobacco of a fuperior quality,
indigo, cotton, and the different tropical fruits in perfeétion, are all in.
digenous produéts of this favoured land *.”’ Agricultute feems to be
purfued with confiderable avidity, but the mode has not been particularly
Uluftrated. * .
Rivers.] The chief river of the Birman emysre is the Irrawady,
which probably pafles by Moguang to Bamoo, and thence by Umme
rapoora and Prome towards the fca, which it joins by many mouths,
after a comparative courfe of near 1,200 Britith miles. The Keen Duem
feems to rife in the mountains towards Afam, being of much inferior fize
where it joins the Irrawady.
The river Sitang is the next on the eaft, after pafling the fmall river
ef Pegu, but feems to be a kind of remote branch of the Irrawady.
The Thaluan enters the fea near Martaban, the length of its courfe
@ Symes, ii, 972,
exceeds
exceeds thi
{reams it ¢
pervades a
rivers rema
Mounrs
on the fron
Nand S,,
between Ay
fupplies the
Forests,
ina ftate of
is known in
capital, firs
the teak tree
the teak flou
as well as to
BoTANY. ]
ritory of Ind
the dominion:
hear fuch a fi
as they have |
and feparate v
Certain diftri
able attention
wholly overlo
bable one inde
of their indig
neral the whe
deep forefts, i
accefible parts
adventure,
It is in thot
where, from tl
flooded every
inconceivable b
dure, grace, ar
the diftinguithi
mrchs of our
exuberance of n
in their bloffom
h rity of thape,
Mpiilennce th
ere rifes in
wood is in high
ts fmoak, The
ak as a durable
the produce q
yeamore fig, th
the hesndtht of t
mot delicious
Indian fun,
_ OF the plants ¢
Important are nat
Halt of Specify
BIRMAN EMPIRE. 399
exceeds that of the Irrawady, though not being fed by fuch numeroue
reams it cannot equal it in fize. The river of Siam, or Maygue, alfo
pervades a part of the Birman territory. The geography of all thefe
prand
other es
: ‘vers remains imperfect.
ee sa Me ae puaesayoEe is probable that the higheft range of mountains is
i it on the frontiers of Tibet. The other sd are delineated as pafling
Nand §., but the names are not indicated, except thofe of Anoupec,
capital retween Ava and Arracan, and a {mall range running E. and W., which
bard fupplies the fources of the river of a is Ls
returns Forests. } The forefts are large and numerous, many parts remaining
aver ina tate of nature. They fupply almoft every defcription of timber that
bid isknown in Hindoftan ; and, about four br tan ed to the N. of the
fy Vv capital, firs grow in abundance. But the lord of the Birman foreft is
a ka the teak tree, fuperior to the European oak, which is there unknown:
amerce. the teak paca in many parts of the empire, to the N. of the capital
- well as to the S.
ale : Borany.] All the countries that compofe the rich and extenfive'ter-
ant ritory of India beyond the Ganges, including the Birman empire, and
: the dominions of Pegu, Siam, Cambodia, Cochin-China, and Malacca,
hear fuch a fimilarity to each other in their vegetable produdtions as far
as they have been inveftigated, as renders it impoffible to give a general
aud feparate view of their re‘pective floras without continual repetitions,
Certain diftricts alfo in farther India have been examined with confider-
able attention, while others fimilarly fituated have remained al:noft
— Menn wholly overlooked: it is only therefore from analogy (a highly pro-
es. bable one indeed) that we can conjecture the moft characteriftic {pecies
of their indigenous plant. The mountains of the interior, and in ge-
yes attelts eral the whole northern frontier, are ftill totally unexplored, and the
the fea deep forefts, infefted with tigers, muft ever continue, even.in the more
WD aceflible parts, to oppofe no trifling obftacles to the fpirit of fcientific
ds almot adventure. it
» pleafant It is in thofe parts of the torrid zone that abound with water, and
foil of the where, from the influence of the monfoons, the country is extenfively
and pro- flooded every year, that vegetation affumes a vigour and fublimity wholly
parts of inconceivable by the mative of more temperate climates; everlafting ver.
dure, grace, and majefty of form, height and amplitude of growth, are
the diftinguifhing attributes of their trees, compared with which the moe
nrchs of our foretts fink into vegetables of an inferior order: the fame
exuberance of nature is confpicuous in their fhrubs and herbaceous plants,
in their bloffoms and their fruits, whofe vivid brilliancy of colour, tingu«
larity of (hape, aromatic fragrance, and exalted flavour, reduce to relative
infignificaace the puny produce of European fummers.
Here rifes in proud magnificence the white fandal tree, whofe fragrant
wood is in high requelt through the whole eatt for the grateful odour of
its{moak, The teak tree (te¢tona theca) is at leaft equal even to Britifth
tak as a durable material for fhip building ; the true jet black ebony wood
isthe produce of one of the indigenous trees of Cochin-China, The
fycamore fig, the Indian fig, and the banyan tree, itfelf a grove, by
the breadth of their leaves and the luxuriance of their foliage, afford a
m nen fhelter, impenetrable even by the meridian ardour of an
ndian fun,
_ Of the plants that. are ufed in medicine or the arts fome of the moft
important are natives of Farther India: the nature of this work does not
dmit of fpecifying the whole, but thofe of moft confequence are the fol-
6 lowing,
nd moun.
» ATE eX
As of {mall
{t of the
r quality,
bre all ine
ms to be
prticulatly
rrawady,
y Umme-
mouths,
een Duem
ferior fize
mall river
wady °
its courle
excecds
400 BIRMAN EMPIRE.
lowing. The ginger and cardamom, two pleafant aromatics
wild fh the bese Alba but are alfo cultivated in great Micdnece
turmeric, whofe principal ufe in Europe is as a dyeing drug, is lar ae
_ ufed by the natives of the coaft to tinge and flavour their rice and i
food: the leaves of the betel pepper, with the fruit of the black and lon
peppers are the moft favourite of their native fpices, to which may al
e added three or four kinds of capficum. The cinnamon laurel grows
in abundance on each fide of the Malayan peninfula, and fometimes, a5
it is faid, accompanied by the nutmeg. . The fugar cane, the bamboo
and the fpikenard, the three moft celebrated plants of the grafs tribe, tins
found throughout the whole country: the two fdrmer in rich {wamps
and the latter on dry hills. The {weet potatoe, mad apple and love.
oe gourds, melons, water melons, and a profufion of other efculent
plants, enrich this favoured country ; all thefe however require cultiya.
tion: but the plantain, the cocoa nut, and fago palm, furnifhed by the
free unftinted bounty of nature, contribute moft plentifully to fatisfy the
wants of the inhabitants. Of native fruits they poffefs a vaft variety and
an inexhauttible abundance. The vine grows wild in the foretts, but from
exceffive heat and want of cultivation its fruit is far inferior to that of
the fouth of Europe: to compenfate however for this deficiency, they
have the lufcious mango, the pine-apple, the fapindus edulis (the li-tfchi
of the Chinefe), the mangofteen plum, the cuftard apple, the papaw fig,
the orange, the lemon, and lime, and a multitude of other exquifite fruits,
whofe very names are fcarcely known in Europe.
Zootocy.}] The animals in general correfpond with thofe of Hin.
doftan. Elephafts principally abound in Pegu. ‘The horfes are {mall,
but fpirited. A kind of wild fowl called the henza, and by the Hindoos
the braminy goofe, has been adopted as the fymbol of the empire, like
the Roman eagle.
Mineratocy.] The mineralogy of this region, the Golden Cherfonefe
of the ancients, is opulent, and Cie products rather fingular. While
Malacca, which has hitherto been fuppofed the Golden Cherfonefe,
fcarcely produces any mineral except tin, and is in truth a poor country,
enly celebrated as an emporium of Portuguefe trade with China, the
rivers of Pegu, on the contrary, itill continue to devolve, particles of
gold: and their fands mutt in ancient times have been yet more prolific
of that precious metal. Nor is it improbable that the practice of gilding
the reofs and fpires of temples and palaces may afcend to ancient times,
as we are told that the Shomadoo was built about 500 ycars before the
Chrittian era ;_in which cafe the {plendid appearance might naturally give
rife to the claffical appellation of the country. In many regions gold is
found intermingled with filver ; and fix days’ journey from Bamoo (pro
bably towards the north) there are mines of gold and filver at Badouem,
near the frontiers of China. By a fingulur conjunétion, there are, ac-
cording to the fame authority, mines of gold, filver, rubies, and fapphires,
* prefent open on a mountain called Wooboloo-taun, near the river Keen
uem,. :
There is alfo abundance of inferior minerals, as tin, iron, lead, anti
mony, arfenic, and fulphur ; and amber, a rare and fingular produd, is
not only dug up in large quantities near the river Irrawady, but is uncom
monly pure and pellucid.
The moft fingular produ& of Pegu is the ruby, a ftone next to the dia-
|
Pegu, this fubitance being almoft as peculiar as the diamond is to -
coftan
tbounds in woo
tin,
_ Alarge and
the work of f;
arly infancy.
tontrous, ~The
on pctlions of ¢
trelles, while tha
the fkill of an E
tats, and other ¢
pt a confiderat
pp in
vel
mond in value, and which is found in a mountain between Siriam and immbibes their perf
* The Striam garne
‘doftan *,
of the emp
pital, or rat
HIS ki
2 of the
and imperfeé
ar is pure, 2
to be extrem
cattle, but: he
niny reafon,
O&ober. T
fruits, and gri
The capita
fil feveral lea
inhabitants eq
temples are co
of ditting uithes
covered from
ingots of gol
canopy, which
but the judicio
or fome other
mans cOnquerec
brafs, _
The natives’
maritime life ;
Perfia, whence
Their repatts ¢
k is pure wate
Mtginity is ne
v
§ palace, vy
e girls are
wpin, ii, 269,
ARACAN. 40
> found ‘fottan *. Rubies and fapphires are alfo found in the north-weftern part
e 5 the of the empire ; but the moft valuable mines are in the vicinity of the ca-
largely pital, or rather about 30 Britifh miles to the north,
id other
ind long
nay alfo EEE
1 grows
imes, as
bamboo, ARACAN.
ribe, are
{wamps, HIS kingdom has been already mentioned in the preceding account
and lovee T of the Birman empire. The materials concerning it are fcanty
-efculent ind imperfe&t, though the extent of coaft feems to invitecommerce. The
> cultiva. iit is pure, and contagious diforders are unknown. The plains are faid
ed by the to be extremely fertile ; and delicious vallies prefent numerous flocks of
atisty the attle, but horfes are rare, and the land is laboured by buffaloes. The
ariety and niny reafon, improperly called winter, begins in April and ends in
but from O@ober. The other months are dry and afford abundance of vegetables,
to that of fits, and grain ; but wheat and rye are unknown t+.
het they The capital gives a great idea of the kingdom, its extent being faid to
the tlehi fll {everal leagues ; and oriental exaggeration adds, that the number of
Haan fi inhabitants equals that of the moft populous European cities, while the
ilite frunts, temples are computed at fix hundred. The palace of the monarch was
> of Hi fdiftinguithed wealth, and the golden hall was fo ftyled, becaufe it was
~ f iL wvered from top to bottom with that precious metal. A hundred
oi f ingots of gold, each weighing forty pounds, were fufpended from the
ret Whe canopy at was alfo of mafly gold. Such are the tales of the eaft,
si! but the judicious reader will think that I am copying Mendez de Pinto,
Cherfonefe or fome other extravagant traveller, and will obferve that, when the Bir-
aie Ri nans conquered this country, in 1783, the richeft booty was an idol of
Cherfonefe, bal
The natives of Aracan are faid to be averfe to commerce, and to a
maritime life ; but the Mahometans export elephants to Hindoftan and
Feria) whence they return linen, filks, and fpices. Aracan chiefly
bounds in wood, ivory, lead; and, if we believe our author, likewife in
or country,
China, the
particles of
ore prolific
le of gilding
cient times,
before the
pturally give
ions gold is
amoo (pros
t Badouem,
ere are, ace
d fapphires,
p river Keen
on occafions of ceremony they wear long robes. Their hair is woven in
trees, while that of the women is difpofed in floating buckles, with all
the kill of an European coquette.
Their repafts are not of an inticing kind, confifting of rats, mice, fer-
eats, and other animals little known in European cookery. Fith muft be
Arpt a confiderable time before it can provoke their palate; and their
irnk is pure water, or the juice of the oat tree.
Virginity is net a refpected virtue, the indolence of the hufbands pre-
tring the temporary brides of the foreign feamen. The monarch, fhut
pin his palace, vegetates in infipid luxury with his queen and concubines.
welve girls are annuatly expofed to the fun; and the fine linen which
ibibes their perfpiration is {ent to the monarch, that from the odour he
lead, antis
produdt, it
t is uncome
t to the dia
Siriam and
is to His
Cottam
* The Siriam garnet, vulgarly Syrian, is alfo from this country.
i, 962, .
Dd
+ Turpin, ii, 968
402 ARACAN.
may judge of the faireft.. It it even faid that, as in fome countries jn
Africa, the royal guard is compofed of armed concubines.
Medicine is only praétifed by the priefts called Raulins, who breathe
upon the fick, pronounce myfterious words, and offer facritices,
The dead bodies of the great are committed to a funeral pile, but thofe
of the poor are thrown into the rivers, as our author afferts, though the
practice be contradictory to that of all other nations, He adds, however,
that the bodies are fometimes expofed to the birds of prey, a well-known
cuftom of the Perfees. It is efteemed an a& of piety to haften the fatal
termination of a lingering difeafe.
Their temples are faid to refemble pyramids ; and they have domettic
gods, whofe image they fometimes imprefs on their arm with heated
iron, ‘There are proceflions of idols, as in Hindoftan, when many volun.
tary victims are crufhed by the wheels of the car.
There are three orders of priefts ; and their chief, who refides in the
ifle of Munay, has great authority, the king, though defpotic, being un.
covered in his prefence, and yielding the precedence in ceremonies. All
the priefts live in perpetual celibacy, and the violation of this purity im.
plies inftant degradation. Some of thefe religious men live like hermits,
amidift, rocks, Sark forefts, and deferts ; while others inhabit palaces:at
the royal expence.
Among other {mall kingdoms in the vicinity of the Birman empire,
may be mentioned Jangoma, or perhaps Yangoma, on the north of Siam,
The extent is faid to be various, at {hort epochs, the revolutions being
frequent. This country, according to the Siamefe reports, is governed
by priefts. The inhabitants are faid to be tall and well peovertins|
their fole garment in this hot climate being a cinéture of linen, The
women are famed in the eaft for their gallantry and beauty, in which lat
quality they furpafs thofe of Pegu ; and voluptuous monarchs think their}
haram enriched and adorned by a concubine from Jangoma. The com.
mon food is rice, and the country is alfo faid to abound in mufk, pepper,
filk, gold, filver, copper, and gum-benjamin. But it is fufficient to men.
tion this country, only known by fuch doubtful relations.
Between Aracan and our pofleffions in Bengal, is the {mall and mou.
tainous country of Tibra, which is faid to be only remarkable for a mie
of gold. Secure in their mountains, the people are happy, becaufe the
are unknown.
MALAYA, OR MALACCA.
Progrefive Geography. — Name and Extent. — Language. — Produéts.—Ci
q Mer enanbinen Remarks on the Malays.——Ifles of Andamen a
: Nicobar. ;
ibd peninfula appended to the Bivman territories on the fouth
ftyled Malaya: or Malacca.
ProGressive GEoGRAPHY.] This cherfonefe was certainly unknor
to the. ancients, and feems to have sirapes the knowledge of Marco Pol
if thie be not his Maletur, where he fays there was abundance of {pic
and the natives had a pro er and peculiar {peech.
However this be, t b
ortuguefe are regarded as the firft difcoverers¢
10 alacd
Malacca. in |
golden Cher
the peninfula
Name. ] '
hometatis, an
polleffed by ;
tion of mater
ftrictly define
leagth, by ak
ample for a p
with its exten
Lancua@i
the eatt, from
i; The Arabi
lnguage has |
write on paper
twigs of a tree
peninfula, and
Divisions,
Patani in the n
tremity of the
Linga, Bintam
PropuctTs. |
main full of -e3
maps indicate a
inhabitants has
duces. pepper,
The wild eleph
mineral mention
The city of
metans in the th
when it was fei:
fouthern Kinga
contain 12,000 .
the walls. Not
mixed race of M
ofthe eaft,. Tt
around $ yet bey
Indian and. Chin
The mean and
ental poffeffions
In general the
middle ftature, tt
at the wrifts and
bee noi feem
wry long, blaek
Belides the ty
fcribed by Sonne
peninfula, perhapy
bani me i reftle
nies, defperate ,
ceflantly of their
confidered by tho
MALAYA, OR MALACCA, 403
Malacca in 1509, to which they were led by the vain idea of finding the
ries in
olden Cherfonete of the ancients. In 1509 the Portuguefe conquered
yreathe the peninfula,
Name-] The name is derived from the Malays, who are moftly Ma-
it thofe hometaris, and’ im fome degree civilized ; but the inland parts feem to be
igh the pofleffled by a more rude native race, little known amidft the imperfec-
owever, tion of materials concerning this country, The northern limits, are not
known ftritly defined ; but Malacea is about 8°, or near 560 Britith miles in
he fatal lgth, by about 150 miles of medial breadth, a territory fufficiently
ample for a powerful monarchy,' had its native productions. correfponded
domettic with its extent.
1 heated Lancuaq@e.} The Malayan language has been called the Italian of
y volun- the eat, from the melody of frequent vowels and liquids. |_|
, The Arabic character is made ufe of ;.and an,influx of words of that
Ȥ in the lnguage has followed the adoption of the Mahometan religion. They
peing un- writeon paper, ufing ink of their own .compofition, and pens made of the
ies. All twigs of atree. ‘The pureft Malay is {till fuppofed to be {poken in the
yurity im. peninfula, and has no infle&tion of nouns or verbs.
> hermits, Divisions. ] Malacca is reprefented as divided into the kingdom of
palaces'at Patani: in the north, and that of Johor or Jor occupying the ourert eX
; tremity of the peninfula, the chief towns being Batufaber the capital,
an empire, Linga, Bintam, and Carimon.
h of Siam, Propucts.} ‘The inland part of the Malayan peninfula feems to re-
ions being main full of extenfive aboriginal forefts ; nor do the ancient or modern
S governed maps indicate any towns or villages in thefe parts. ‘The indolence of the
portioned, ithabitants has prevented the country from being explored, but it pros
nen, The duces pepper, and other fpices, with fome’ precious, gums and woods,
_ which lait
think their
The com-
fk, pepper
nt to men.
The wild elephants, fupply abundance of ivory ;.but the tin; the only
mineral mentioned, may perhaps be the produce of Banka. "
The city of Malacca, which feems to have been founded by Maho-
metans in the thirteenth century, was held by the Portuguefe till 1641,
when it was feized by the Dutch. It was confidered as fituated in the
fouthern kingdom of Johor; and in the laft century was fuppofed to
contain 12,000 inhabitants, of which however only 3,000 dwelled within
the walls. Not above 300 were native Portuguefe, the others being a
nixed race of Mahometan Malays, accounted among, the chief merchants
of the eaft.. The Portuguefe fettlement did not extend above five leagues
around 3. yet became highly important from its advantageous pofition for
Indian and Chinefe commerce *. |. wu hth;
The mean and difgraceful jealoufy of the Dutch concerning their ori-
ental pofleffions renders the recent accounts of this city impertec.
In general the Malays are a well made peeple, though rather below the
niddle ftature, their limbs well (haped, but {mall, and. particularly flender
atthe wrifts and ancles. Their complexion is tawny, their eyes Jarge,
their nofes feem rather flattened by art than nature; and their hair is
very long, blaek, and fhining.
Befides the tyger and elephant, Malacca produces the civit cat dee
fcribed by Sonnerat, who alfo mentions that wild men are found in this
peninfula, perhaps the noted Orang Outangs,
They are reftlefs, fond of navigation, war, plunder, emigrations, co-
ly unknovGill lonies, defperate enterprifes, adventures, and gallantry. They talk ine
arco Pol ceflantly of their honour and their bravery, whilit they are univerfally
ce of {pict confidered by thofe with whom they have intercourfe as the moft trea
and moun.
for a mine
ecaufe the
id ets. — Ci
4 ndaman an
he fouth
if{coverers
* Mandelflo, i, Col, 337,
Malace D a
2 cherows
404 MALAYA, OR MALACCA.
cherous ferocious people on the face of the globe : and: yet, they {peal
the fofteft language of Afia.
This ferocity is fo well known to the Europeans companies who have
fettlements in the Indies, that they have univerfally agreed in Prohibiting
the captains of their fhips, who may put into the Malay iflands, from takin
on board any feamen of that nation, except in the greateft diftrefs, isl
then on no account to exceed two or three.
It.is nothing uncommon for a handful of thefe favages fuddenly to
embark, attack a veffel by furprize, poinard in hand, maflacre the people,
and make themfelves mafters of her. Malay barks, with 25 or 30 men, Nome. — Esch
have been known to board European fhips of 30 or 40 guns, in order to
take poffeffion of them, and murder with their poinards great part of the
crew. The Malay hiftory is full of fuch enterprifes, which mark the ILL th
defperate ferocity of thefe barbarians. rifhing 1
§ pofite to the coaft of Malacca, though at a confiderable diftance, exterior India
are the iflands of Andaman and of Nicobar. The Great Andaman js Name.)
about 140 Britifh miles in length, but not more than 20 in the greateft gin, and in ;
breadth, indented by deep bays affording excellent harbours, and inter. orthography
feted by vaft inlets and creeks, one of which, navigable for fmnall night be. pre
veffels," paffes quite through the ifle*. The foil is chiefly black mould, the natives
the cliffs of a white arenaceous ftone: The extenfive forefts afford and their coun
fome precious trees, as ebony, and the Nicobar bread fruit. The buble that the
only quadrupeds feem to be wild hogs, monkeys, and rats, The fea the Peguefe +.
fupplies numerous fifh, and excellent oyfters. The people of the EXTENT AN
Andamans are as little civilized as any in the world, and are pro- hes been recent
bably cannibals. They have woolly heads, and perfe@ly refemble .
grees: Their Nanaia is truly brutal, infidious, and ferocious, and ee
their canoes of the rudeft kind. On Barren ifle, about 15 leagues the eaftern a
to the eaft of the Andamans, is a violent volcano which emits fhowers | the weft a cha;
of red hot ftones: and the whole ifland has .a “<n and volcanic Pepuybut t
appearance. A Britifh fettlement has been recently formed on the the hands of the
reater Andaman, and fome convicts fout thither from Bengal. The | To the fouth ¢
natives, about 2000, have already profited by the-example of Englih dain of mounts
induft e . : d . t ° di
The: Nicobars are three ; the largeft being about five leagues in cir. ene abe
cumference +. ‘They produce cocoa and areca trees, with yams and The
{weet Paleo ad the eatable birds’ nefts, fo highly efteemed in Britith i b
China, abound here as well as in the Andamans. The people are of breadth, ’
a copper colour, with {mall oblique eyes and other Tatar features Onicnvar po}
In their drefs a {mall ftripe of cloth hangs down behind ; and hence rgions of Exte
the ignorant tales of feamen which led even Linnzus to infer that fome HAM ud the topic has
kind of men had tails. The only quadrupeds are {wine and dogs. The PROGRESSIVE
traffic is in cocoa:nuts, of which one hundred are given for a yard of TM sends to claffic
blue cloth.
@ Af, Ref, iv, 385. + Ibid. iii, 149.
the Sine of Ptol
ailed Indicopleu
Typrobana 5. whid
onental name of (
ance from the
a additional proo
it prefent remarke
mcient Sines but
Growth of a tree,
et sSNA -dPtemaoneecees ee ee eae eS
* Loubere, i. 16, ed
han is the cil
( 405 )
fpeale
o have SIAM.
ibiting
takin
fs, | CHAPTER I.
enly to 7 HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
eople,
aa Name.— Extent. Boundaries.— Original Population.— Progreffive Geo-
mrder to graphy. —Hiftorical Epochs.
t of the
ark the ILL the recent extenfion of the Birman empire, the rich and flou-
rifhing monarchy of Siam was to be regarded as the chief ftate of
diftance, exterior India. ,
laman is Namz.] The name of this celebrated country is of uncertain ori-
eatelt gin, and in appearance firft delivereé by the Portuguefe,’ in whofe
nd inter. orthography Siam and SiaG are the fame, fo that Sian, or Siang,
for {mall night be preferable to Siam*; and the se hg writers in Latin
k mould, the natives Stones. The Siamefe ftyle themfelves Zai, or freemen 5
ts afford ad their country Meuang Tai, or the kingdom of freemen. It is pro-
t. The bable that the Portuguefe derived the name Sian from jintercourfe with
The fea the Peguefe +.
le of the EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES. ] The extent of the Siamefe dominions
are pro- las been recently reftri&ted by the encroachments of the Birmans, nor can
- refemble fome of the limits be accurately defined. On the weft of the Malaian pe- ©
sious, and ninfula a few poffeffions may remain, to the feuth of ‘Tanaferim ; and on
5 leagues the eaftern fide of that Cherfonefe Ligor may mark the boundary. On
ts sa the weft a chain of mountains-feems to divide Siam, as formerly, from
d volcanic
Peguy—but the northern province of Yunfhan ‘would appear to be in
ed on the the hands of the Birmans, who here feem to extend to the river Maykang.
yal. The MN To the fouth and eaft the ancient boundaries are‘fixed ; the ocean, and a
Df Englih chain of mountains dividing Siam from Laos and Cambodia. Thus the
i ucient idea may be retained, that this kingdom is a large vale between
es in cit- two ridges of mountains.
yams and The length of the kingdom may be about ten degrees, or near 700
eemed in Britifh miles ; but of this about one half is not above 70 miles in medial
ple are of HAMM breadth.
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population of Siam, and other
ke of. Exterior India, can only be by affinity of languages ;
and the topic has been little illuftrated.
PROGRESSIVE ae ee Aa The iy abe geograph of Siam
ucends to claffical antiquity, if the peop e be, as is reafonably inferred,
the Sine of Ptolemy. In the reign of the emperor Juftinian, Cofmas,
led Indicopleuftes, mentions the filk of the Sinz, as imported into
Taprobana . which he alfo calls Sielediva, coinciding with Seleadib, the
rental name of Ceylon : and when he adds that this ifle was at an equal
ditance from the Perfian gulph, and the region of the Sinz, he affords
an additional proof that the latter was Siam. This country is not indeed
it prefent remarkable for the production of filk, the ftaple article of the
acient Sine; but it appears that the filk of the early claffics was the
growth of a tree, a kind of filky: cotton, ftill abundant in-Siam; and
* Loubere, i. 16. edit. Amft. 2714.
+ Shan is the oriental term, es appears from feveral papers in the Afiatic Refearches.
Dd3 perhaps,
SIAM.
SIAM.
406 .
rhaps, as Malacea afterwards became famous for products not its own,
i Siam, in a fimilar centrical pofition between China and Hindoftan,
might, in ancient times, be the ‘mart of this and other more oriental
articles. : -o
Some faint notices pesos Siam may probably occur in the
oriental geographers of the middle age ; but fuch inquiries are more
proper for an antiquarian differtation. Suffice it to obferve that, till
the Pertuguefe difcoveries, Siam may be faid to: have remained unknown
to Europeans. In the middle of the feventeenth century Mandelffo*
has compiled a tolerable account of this country’; but the French de.
{criptions prefent more: precifion. of knowledge, as well as more extent
of information. By the latter was firft reformed @ fingular error in the
eography, which deduced the great’ rivers of Ava, Pe u, and Siam
rom a large inland lake called Chiamai, in lat. 30°. hile ibet is placed
in lat. 40°. But on spe an the maps of Afia in the beginning of the lat
century, the reader will be fentible of the great progrefs of geography
in recent times. fr ra :
Historicak& Epocus.] The Siamefe hiftory is imperfeé, and abounds
PoPpuLaTic
adequate doc
more than fo
clude that t
millions. Ye
there ‘were on
hundred thou!
countries !
ArmMy.] |
afew royal gt
occafionally ra
The manner oc
practifed in the
Navy.] 7
fizes, fome of
man hiflory,
rivers Of Exte:
the Birman an
with fables. Their epoch is derived from the pretended difparition of elegance.
their god Sommbna Codam (or Boodh) ; yet by Loubere’s account their REVENUES. ]
fir king began to reign in the year 1goo of their epoch, or about 756 computation,
years after the Chriftian era. Wars with Pegu, and occafional ufurpa.
tions of the throne, cenftitute the hinges of Siamefe hiftory fince the Por.
tuguefe difcovery. In 1568 the Peguefe king declared war on account
of two white elephants which the Siamefe refufed to furrender, and after
rodigious flaughter on both fides, Siam became tributary to Pego,
But about 1620, Raja Hapi delivered his crown from this fervitudet.
In 1680 Phalcon, a Greek adventurer, being highly favoured ‘by the
king of Siam, opened an intercourfe with France, in the view of fup-.
porting his ambitious defigns ; but they were punifhed by his decapi-
tation in 1689, and the French connection ceafed in confequence. The
latter events of Siamefé hiftory may partly be traced in that of the Bir.
man empire.
but voyagers ha
PoLITICAL 1
fiderable politics
who afpired to
commerce, and
Birmans to beco
with Siam migh
of view, as it me
mans and the Sig
petior advantage
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY. Monners.— Lan
Religion. — Government. — Laws, — He ora — Army. — Navy. —Re
venues. — Political Importance.
HE religion of the Siamefe, like that of the Birmans,
Ravicjoy.] refembles that of the Hindoos; and the tranfmign-
tion of fouls forms an effential part of the doétrine ;\ but they imitate
the Chinefe in their feftival of the dead, and in fome other rites of that
fingular nation. .
VERNMENT.] ‘The government of Siam is defpotic; and the {0-
vereign, as among the Birmans, revered with honovrs almoft divine. The
fucceffion to the crown is hereditary in the male line.
Laws.] The laws are reprefented by all writers on this countrys
extremely fevere, death or mutilation being the punifhment even of unim
portant offences.
MANNERS AND
between the vait
erence, as they ap
though centrical,
hers are rather H
, The women are
The efpoufals are
the parties are con
without any fart
but is rather prac
wife ig always ack
The Siamefe
* Loube
© Col, 004051. 4 Mandelflo, 999.
Porvurarioy.]
Re
rman,
migra
imitate
’ { that
the fo»
. The
bntry &
f unit
\ T10¥. |
. SIAM. 407
PorpuLATIoN.}] Concerning the population of Siam there are no
adequate documents. If the Birman empire contain, as is afferted,
more than fourteen millions, it might perhaps be reafonable to con-
clude that the Siamefe dominions may be peopled by about eight
millions. Yet Loubere affures us, that, from actual enumeration,
there were only found of men, women, and children, one million nine
hundred thoufand *. So uncertain are the computations in oriental
countries !
Army.] Loubere fays that, in his time, there was no army except
afew royal guards; but Mandelflo eftimated the army, which may be
occafionally raifed, at 60,000, with not lefs than 3000 or 4000 elephants.
The manner of raifing this army refembles that already defcribed, as
practifed in the Birman empire. .
Navy.] The navy is compofed of a number of veffels of various
fizes, fome of which ave richly decorated. Hence, as in the Bir-
man hiflory, naval engagements are not uuacommon ; and the large
rivers Of Exterior India are often reddened with human gore. Both
the Birman and Siamefe veffels frequently difplay a fingular fantaftic
elegance. ;
Peewee) The revenues of this fovereignty are of uncertain
computation. ‘There is a reyal treafury, as in moft other eaftern ftates,
but voyagers have not attempted to define its probable amount.
PoLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS. ] Siam appeared of con-
fiderable political importance to the Trench in the reign of Louis XIV.,
who afpired to form lafting fettlements, and render it a mart of Indian
commerce, and a fource of great opulence to themfelves. Were the
Birmans to become dangerous to our poffeffions in Bengal, a firm alliance
with Siam might be highly ferviceable. In a merely commercial point
of view, a8 it may be difficult to preferve the friendfhip both of the Bir-
mans and the Siamefe, it is a matter of calculation trom which ftate fu-
perior advantages may be derived.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners. —Language.— Literature. — Cities. —Edifices. —- Manufa@ures.
— Commerce.
HERE is a confiderable fimilitude in
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.) T the manners and cuftoms of all the ftates
between the vaft countries of China and Hindoftan ; with fhades of dif-
ference, as they approximate to either of Oa of civilization. Siam,
though centrical, has embraced a branch of Hindoo faith, and the man-
ners are rather Hindoftanic than Chinefe.
_ The women are under few reftraints, and are married at an early age.
The efpoufals are concluded by female mediation; and on the third vifit
the parties are confidered as wedded, after the exchange of a few prefents,
without any farther ceremony civil or facred. Polygamy is allowed ;
but is rather praétifed from oltentation than any other motive, and one
wife is always acknowledged as fupreme.
The Siamefe funerals confiderably refemble thofe of the Chinefe +.
* Loubere, i. 30, + Ib. b. 971,
Dd4 The
ee ee ee
408 SIAM.
The body is inclofed in a wooden bier or varnifhed coffin ; and the monks
called Talapoins, (perhaps from their falapan, or peculiar umbrella,)
fing hymns in the Bali tongue. After a folemn proceffion the body 4
burnt on a funeral pile of precious woods, erected near fome temple ;
and the fpectacle is often rendered more magnificent by the addition of
theatrical exhibitions, in which the Siamefe excel. The tombs are in a
pyramidal form, and thofe of the kings large and lofty. Mourning is
not prefcribed by the laws, as in China: and the poor are buried with
little ceremony.
The common nourifhment of the Siamefe confifts in rice and fith, both
which articles are abundant. They alfo eat lizards, rats, and f{everal
kinds of infects. ,
The houfes are {mall, and conftruéted of bamboos upon pillars, to guard
againft inundations fo common in this country. They are fpeedily de.
ftroyed and replaced ; and a conflagration, if a common, is at the fame
time a flight calamity. Even the palaces only exceed the common habi.
tations by eosin a more extenfive fpace, and being conftruded of
timber, with a few ornaments: they are alfo of a greater height, but
never exceed one floor.
In perfon the Siamefe are rather fmall, but well made*, “The
figure of the countenance, both of men and women, has lefs of the oval
than of the lozenge form, being broad, and raifed at the top of the cheeks;
and the forehead fuddenly contracts, and is almoft as pointed as the chin,
Befides, their eyes rifiny fomewhat towards the temples, are fmall and .
dull: and the white is commonly bind wing yellow. Their cheeks
are hollow, becaufe the upper part is too high; the mouth is very
large, with thick pale lips, and teeth blackened by art. The complexion
is coarfe, being brown mixed with red, to which the climate greatly con.
tributes ¢."’
Hence it would appear that the Siamefe are much inferior in perfonal
appearance to the Birmans; and rather approach to the Tataric or Chi.
nefe features,
The drefs is extremely flight, the warmth of the climate rendering
clothes almoft unneceffary. ‘
The Siamefe excel in theatrical amufements. The fubjects are often
taken from their mythology, and from traditions concerning their ancient
heroes. They have alfo races of oxen and thofe of boats, combats of
elephants, cock-f hting, tumbling, wreftling, and rope-dancing, religious
roceflions, and illuminations, and beautiful exhibitions of fire-works,
The men are generally indolent to excefs, and fond of games of chance,
while the women are employed in works of induttry.
Lanouace.] Like the other languages of Farther India, the Siamefe
has not been completely inveftigated, and compared with the adjacent
tongues. There are thirty-feven letters, all confonants ; the vowels and
diphthongs conftituting a diftin& ae The R appears, which is
not known tothe Chinefe, and the W. ‘There is a confiderable chant
in the enunciation, as in other ancient. languages. There are no inflexions
of verbs or nouns; and the idioms being very remote from thofe of
Europe, any tranflation becomes very difficult. The words feem mofly
monofyllabic, like the Chinefe.
*@ Loubere, i, 61.
+ Kempfer, i. 29. calls them n 8, fo dark did their complexions a to hie;
ond be compares thele porlone to spn.” oa -
The
The Bali of the |
three letters,
LiTvzRATURE. ]
cient, and Loubere
the age of feven or
vents of the Talapy
and accompts ; for |
alfo taught precept
is not only the god
not a pofitive virtue,
tory are not unknoy
tales, and mythologi
Siamefe literature.
Cities AND Tow:
called Siam, by the
the native language tl
Yuthia. It is fituatec
in Loubere’s time, we
bited. Its condition,
1766, has not been de
The other chief to
mouth of the Meina:
the gulph of Siam.
vels, fometimes furroy
brick wall. As there
be fuperfluous to dwe
the frequency of orien
as yet unknown to geo
Evirices.]) Kemp
brief, is folid and inte
edifices near the capital
Thon, on a plain to t
obtained over the king
about 120 feet in hei
tage is fquare, each f d
In form ; and there are
the top it terminates in
The fecond edifice ¢
each furrounded with
river. They contain
particularly the temple
atues and other carvin,
count, exquifite, |
That intelligent vo
is ideas on the fubje
te, who, accuftomed
by the Ptshga of his
ances, have per
brated country, haps g
an tN UFACTURES. ]
ingeniou: people, an
are little filled is the fe
geld, and in miniature pai
* Loubere, i, 18¢
SIAM. : 409
The Bali of the Siamefe refembles that of the Birmans, and has thirty- .
letters.
Oe etians In literature the Siamefe are far from being defi-
cient, and Loubere has well explained their modes of education *. At
the age of feven or eight years the children are often placed in the con-
yents of the Talapoins, where they are inftructed in reading, writing,
and accompts ; for the mercantile profeffion is very general. They are
alfo taught precepts of morality ; but it is to be regretted that Boodh
js not only the god of wifdom but of cunning, which is efteemed, if
not a pofitive virtue, yet a proof of fuperior abilities. Books of hif-
tory are not unknown, and there is an excellent code of laws. Poetry,
tales, and mythologic fables, feem to conftitute the other departments of
Siamefe literature.
Cities AND Towns.] The capital city of the kingdom has been
called Siam, by the vague ignorance of the Portuguefe navigators. In
the native language the name epproscare to the European enunciation of
Yuthia. It is fituated in an ifle formed by the river Meinam. The walls,
in Loubere’s time, were extenfive ; but not above a fixth part was inha-
bited. Its condition, fince it was delivered from the Birman canque”. in
1766, has not been defcribed.
The other chief towns in the Siamefe dominions are Bankok, at the
mouth of the Meinam; with Ogmo and others on the eaftern coat of
the gulph of Siam. In general thefe towns are only colle&tions of ho-
yels, fometimes furrounded with a wooden ftockade, and rarely with a
brick wall. As there is no recent defcription of the country; it would
be fuperfluous to dwell on old defcriptions of places perhaps ruined in
the frequency of oriental revolutions ; while other cities may have arifen
as yet unknown to geography.
Epirices.) Kampfer, in 1690, vifited Siam ; and his account, though
brief, is folid and interefting. He minutely defcribes two remarkable
edifices near the capital +, The firft is the famous pyramid called Puka
Thon, on a plain to the N. W., erected in memory of a vitory there
obtained over the king of Pegu. It is a mafly but magnificent ftructure,
about 120 feet in height, in a {quare {pot inclofed by awall. The firft
tage is fquare, each fide being about 115 paces long. The others vary
in form ; and there are open galleries ornamented with columns. At
the top it terminates in a flender {pire.
The fecond edifice confifts of two fquares to the eaft of the city,
each furrounded with a fair wall, and Yeparated by a channel of the
iver. They contain many temples, convents, chapels, and columns,
particularly the temple of Berklam, with a grand gate ornamented with
atues and other carvings ; the other decorations were alfo, by his ac-
count, exquifite. ;
_That intelligent voyager alfo defcribes fome other edifices; and
his ideas on the fubjeét deferve to be contrafted with thofe of Lou-
here, who, accuftomed to the pomp of Louis XIV., or difgufted
by the maffacre of his countrymen, may in this, and fome other in-
ances, have perhaps given unfavourable reprefentations of this cele.
brated country,
Manuracturgs.] Though the Siamefe are an indolent, yet they are
an ingenious people, and fome of their manufaétures deferve praife. They
are little filled in the fabrication of iron or fteel ; but excel in that of
gold, and in miniature painting. ‘The common people are moftly occupied
* Loubere, i, 180, 4 Kempfer, i. 50,
4qI0 SIAM.
in procuring fith for their daily food, while the fuperior claffes are engaged
in 2 trifling oe er : Hi
OMMERCE. he commercial relations are chiefly with Hi
China, Japan, dd the Dutch. A pete
The productions of the country are prodigious quantities of grain, cot.
ton, benjamin ; fandal, aguallo, and fapan woods ; antimony, tin, lead
iron, load ftone, goldand filver ; fapphires, emeralds, agates, cryftal, mar.
ble, and tombac *.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country. —Soil and Agriculture.— River,
—Lakes. — Mountains. — Botany. — Zoology.— Mineralogy.
HE: two firft months of the Siamefe
CumaTE en SEASONS: ] year, which correfpond with our De.
cember and January, form the whole winter of this country ; the third,
fourth, and fifth, belong to what is called their little fummer ; the feven
others to their great f{ummer +. Being on the north of the line their
winter of posal correfponds with ours; but is almoft as warm as a
French fummer. ‘The little fummer is their {pring ; but autumn is ab.
folutely unknown in their calendar. The winter is dry ; the fummer is
moift: the former is diftinguifhed by the courfe of the wind, which
blows almoft conftantly from the ‘north, refrefhed with cold from the
{nowy mountains of Tibet, and the bleak waftes of Mongolia.
FACE OF THE COUNTRY. ] ,This country, as already mentioned, isa
wide vale between two high ridges of mountains, thus fomewhat refem.
bling Egypt ona wider fcale. Compared with the Birman empire, the
cultivated level is not above half the extent either in breadth or length.
. Nor do the Siamefe feem fo induftrious as the Birmans, as their agricul.
ture does not appear to extend far from the banks of the river and its
branches ; fo that towards the mountains there are vaft aboriginal forefts
filled with' wild animals, whence the numbers of deer and other {kins ex.
ported as merchandize. The rocky and variegated fhores of the noble
ulph of Siam, and the fize and inundations of the Meinam, confpire with
fhe rich and picturefque vegetation of the foreits, illumined at night with
crowds of brilliant fire-flies, to imprefs ftrangerg with delight and ad-
miration. ;
Soit.] The foil towards the mountains is gym and unfertile, but
on the fhores of the river confitts, like that of Egypt, of an extremely
rich.and pure mould, in which it is even difficult to find a pebble. Its
in fa&t a muddy depofition, accumulating from early ages, and manured,
as it. were, by regular inundations, fo as to produce exuberant quantities
of rice. The country would be a terreftrial paradife, were it not fub-
jet to the moft abfurd defpotifm, which impoverifhes itfelf, and may
perhaps be claffed among the worft of governments, being far inferior to
that of their neighbours the Birmans.
AORTOL THRE.) Agrcubure, as ufual in the ealt, is fimple and pri.
mitive. The chief product is rice of excellent quality ; but wheat is not
i tknown, in lands at a diftance from the inundations. Peas, and other
@ Dalyrymple’s Oriental Repertory, p. 118. + Loubere, i. 59.
vegetables,
pt le alfo al
dolence or prejudi
the fame land *,
Rivers. ] The
of waters, reigns |
and rapid, always
Elbe t. He adds
mountains which
Cambodia and Peg
hve greatly melt
las commenced,
gree to their form
alutary.
The banks of th
peopled from Yutl
Sunderbunds of th
on the fertile thores
Tothe north of
but their names are
Lakes. ] Inthe
fource to a river w
bable that others ;
geographers,
MouNTAINS,] ‘T
kingdom on the eaft
may be called the Sis
{mall ridge alfo paffe:
the north Siam term;
ever to have reached
Forests.) The {
kinds of valuable wox
Zootocy.] The
deer, Horfes fern |
yet there are, or we
Siam are of diftinguif
our are treated with
of fuch are royal,
Meinam is, the
pipente and the tre
‘ee aah with
a8 uniforml if
_
Miverarocy.}
mixed with a variable
by the Siamefe are of
guefe, was fold throug
It, except that of Junl
ear Louve was a
‘ea Py were fj
SLES, mon (
fubjetion to sae,
Oreft's account, who
500 tons of tin, and ¢
® Loubere, ib. 50
SIAM. 4i1
yegetables, alfo abound. Maize is confined to their gardens. From in-
sities or prejudice {ldom more than one crop in a year is taken from
the fame land *. ; :
Rivers. ] ‘The grand river Meinam, a name which fignifies the mother
of waters, reigns fupreme among the Siamefe ftreams. It is very deep
and rapid, always full, and according to ‘iempfer, larger than the
Elbe+. He adds that the inhabitants fuppofe its fource to be in the
mountains which give rife to.the Ganges, and that it branches through
Cambodia and Pegu. The inundations are in September, after the fnows
have greatly melted in the northern mountains, and the rainy feafon
jas commenced. In December the waters decline, and fink by de-
grees to their former level. The water, though muddy, is pleafant and
alutary.
The banks of the Meinam are generally low and marfhy, but thickly
peopled from Yuthia to Bankok, below which are wild deferts like the
Sunderbunds of the Ganges. Monkeys, fire-flies, and mofkitoes, {warm
on the fertile fhores. :
Tothe north of the Siamefe dominions, fome rivers join the Meinam ;
but their names are unknown, and they belong to the Birman territories.
Lakes.] Inthe eaft of the kingdom a {mall lake is delineated, giving
fource to a river which flows into that of Cambodia; and it is pro-
bable that others may exift near the mountains, though unknown to
geographers.
OUNTAINS.] The extenfive ranges of mountains which inclofe this
kingdom on the eaft and weft have been repeatedly mentioned. Thefe
may be called the Siamefe chairis, till the native names be afcertained. A
{mall ridge alfo paffes eaft and, weft, not far to the north of Yuthia. In
the north Siam terminates in plains ;~nor does it even by conqueft, feem
ever to have reached the mountains on the Chinefe frontier.
Forests. ] The forefts are numerous and large, and produce many
kinds of valuable woods.
Zootocy.] The chief animals of Siam are elephants, buffaloes, and
deer, Horfes feem little known or ufed, though found wild in Tibet ;
yet there are, or were, a few ill-mounted cavalry. The elephants of
Siam are of diftinguithed fagacity and beauty ; and thofe of a white co-
lour are treated with a kind of adoration, as the Siamefe believe the fouls
of fuch are royal. Wild boars, tigers, and monkeys, are alfo: numerous.
The Meinam is, at diftant intervals of time, infefted with {mall poifonous
pe a and the trees on its banks are, as already mentioned, beauti-
fully illuminated with {warms of fire-flies, which emit and conceal their
light'as uniformly as if it preceeded from a machine of the moft exac& con-
trivance.
Mivzranocy.] There are fome mines of gold, and others of copper,
mixed with a variable proportion of gold; but the mines chiefly wrought
by the Siamefe are of tin and lead. The tin, called calin by the Portu-
guefle, was fold throughout the Indies, but was foft and ill refined; all of
It, except that of Junkfeylon, was a royal perquifitet. —-
Near Louve was a mountain of load-ftone ; fine agates abounded in the
mountains, nor were fapphires unknown.
Istes.] Among the numierous and minute ifles which owe a dovbtful
fubjection to Siam, Junkfeylon alone deferves mention. By Captain
Foreft's account, : who vifited this ifle in 1 7341 it annually exports about
500 tons of tin, and contains 12,000 inhabitants.
* Loubere, ib. 50. + Ib. i, 67. By. edit. $ Mei, 207,
THE
4t2
SIAM.
LAOS.
to Kempfer * this was a powerful ftate, furrounded with
Pi fa deferte; and. dificult of accefs by water, becaufe the river
is full of rocks and cataraé&ts. But by the newly difcovered river of Anan
the paflage from Siam may perhaps be expedited. The foil is reprefented
as fertile in rice; and Laos furnifhed the merchants of Cambodia with
the beft benzoin and lacca. Exquifite mufk is alfo brought from Laos,
HE other ftates of exterior India are .Laos, Cambodia, Siampa,
Cochin-China, and Tunquin ; countries unimportant in themfelves,
and concerning which the materials are imperfect.
i d rubies ; and the rivers boaft of the frefh water maya,
Which vie ‘ seit "The religion and manners refemble thofe of Siam ;
but in perfonal appearance the people of Laos refemble the fouthern
Chinefe.
ief river is ftyled Meinam- Kong, which afterwards paiffes through
Cambodia, te Mr. Dalrymple’s valuable map of exterior India this grand
ftream is called the Kiou Long, or Maykaun 3; and Mr. Arrowlmith
derives it from the Tibetian alps, where it is ftyled the Satchou, and af.
terwards by D’Anville the Lan-tfan Kiang; which feems to identify it
as implying the river of Lan-tfang, or Leng, the capital of Laos.
veral precious woo
CAMBODIA. ‘
is alfo called Camboja and Camboge ; and being partly
Bi nog ook by repeated defcriptions, Like Siam, it is inclofed
by mountains on the eaft and weit, and fertilized by a grand river, the
aykaung, or Makon, which begins to inundate the country in June,
Near its mouth it is full of low ifles and fandbanks, fo that the ua
tion is impeded, and there is no port nor town. The country is -
peopled ; and the capital called Cambodia, perhaps becaufe “ a
not the native term, confifts only of one ftreet, with,a fingle temp i:
moft peculiar product is the fubftance ftyled gamboge, or rather "4
boge gum, yielding a fine yellow tint. dnney alfo abounds, with fe.
: and fome add gold. T
e country is fertile in
i i d. There are many Japanefe fettlers, with Chinele
Mala ar which late can {carcely be diltinguithed from the natives, who
are of a dark yellow complexion, with long black hair.
-
Seems to be fep
us, from ano
SIAMPA.
Tus {mall maritime tra& is to the S.E. of Cambodia, fiom which it
ted by a ridge of mountains.
d French natrative, that the people of this country are
Mr. Pennant + informs
d are large, mufcular, and well made ; the complexion
Se reddith’ the note rathee “at, the Fair is black and long, the dref
very flight t. ‘The king refides at Feneri, the capital, and was tributary
fays it
+ Wi D’A ille he f
*Anville
+ la he te
from the
3 Outlines, iii. 61,
«
°
lis the name Ci
e Staunton, i. 664, puts Tfiompa, end
as a fandy traét interfedted with rocks.
» Cochin-China.
Their junks are well
‘
Tus country, pre
by many navigators,
fription. The name
lve been impofed by
pllation, while the na
A confiderable dep
pople are of Chinefe
Kemoos, are confined
ound with havens, tl
divided into diftin@
nis to the north of
The fuperior ranks 2
Chinefe manners,’ The
vith large long fleeves ;
ban covers the head of t
boufes are moftly of bar
ud fland in groves of d
ty abounds in the mark
ommon ufe; they cvin
arthern ware is very ne
tober, and November ; :
mit, prefenting the fen
tions only laft two or th
niny fealon. Borri’s acc
dys regularly in each
March, April, May, forr
hllowing months is rathe
The horfes are {mall, |
iinumerable goats. ‘The
qualities, yams, {weet pot
bounds, Gold dutt is fi
fngular purity. Silver 1
metals are ufed in ingots,
duded by the Portuguefe
» Fennant mentions
h Cochin-China +3 andt
tells, efteemed a luxury in
ue formed by a {pecies of |
and the Dutch ufed to ex]
the oriental ifles, and on t
The Paracels form a lor
Parallel to the coat of Co
Tats country was only d
may at prefent be confiderec
* Churchill's Col. vol
SIAM. 413
»Cochin-China. ‘The. productions are cotton, indigo, and bad filk.
Their junks are well built, and are much employed in fifhing.
‘
COCHIN-CHINA.
Tuts country, prefenting an extenfive range of coaft, has been vifited
by many ic sii who have fupplied confiderable materials for its de-
fription. The name is faid to imply Weftern China, and appears to.
lave been impofed by the early navigators, perhaps from the Malay ap-
ation, while the native name remains unknown. ,
Aconfiderable degree of civilization appears, and it is faid that the
yople are of Chinefe extract. The aboriginal favages, called Moos or
Kemoos, are confined to the weftern range of mountains. As the fhores
ound with havens, the canoes and junks are numerous. The country
isdivided into diftin& provinces, the capital being Hue-fo, about forty
niles to the north of Turon, which is called Han-fan by the natives.
The fuperior ranks are clothed in filk, and difplay the politenefs of
Chinefe manners. The drefs of both fexes is fimilar, being loofe robes
vith large long fleeves ; and cott6n tunics and trowfers. A kind of tur-
tan covers the head of the men ; but no fhoes nor flippers are ufed. . The
boufes are moftly of bamboo,, covered with ruthes or the ftraw of rice ;
ud and in groves of oranges, limes, plantains, and cocoa trees. Poul-
ty abounds in the markets. An ardent fpirit diftilled frem rice is in
common ufe ; they cvince fome {kill in the manufadture of iron, and their
arthern ware is very neat. The rainy feafon is during September, Oc-
tober, and November ; and the three following months are alfo cold and
mit, prefenting the femblance of an European winter. The inunda-
tions oe laft two or three days, but happen once a fortnight in the
niny fealon. Borri’s account bears that the rains only continue for three
hys regularly in each fortnight: if true, a finyular phenomenon *,
March, April, May, form a delicious fpring ; while the heat of the three
hllowing months is rather exceffive. ;
The horfes are {mall, but active: there are alfo mules, and affes, and
imumerable goats. The produéts of agriculture are rice of different
qualities, yams, {weet potatoes, greens, pumpkins, melons. Sugar alfo
abounds, Gold duit is found in the rivers: and the mines yield ore of
ingular purity. Silver mines have alfo been lately difcovered. Both
netals are ufed in ingots, as in China. The little trade is chiefly con-
luded by the Portuguefe from Macao.
Mr. Pennant mentions tigers, ‘elephants, and monkeys, as aboundin
i Cochin-China + ; and that able naturalift adds, that the edible birds
tefts, efteemed a luxury in China, are chiefly found in this country. They
we formed by a {pecies of fwallows from fome unknown vifcous fubftance;
and the Dutch ufed to export great numbers from Batavia, gathered in
the oriental ifles, and on the coats of this country,
The Paracels form a long chain of {mall iflands with rocks and fhoals,
parallel to the coaft of Cochin-China.
TUNQUIN.
Tats country was only divided from the former by a {malf river, and
may at prefent be confidered as incorporated with it by conqueft. The
® Churchill’s Col, vol. ii. + Outlines, iii. 65.
11 iahabitants
414 SIAM.
inhabitants refemble their neighbours the Chinefe, but their manera are
not fo civilized. . The products are numerous, and feem to blend thofe of
China with thofe of Hindoftan, ‘While the rivers in Cochin-China are
of a fhort courfe, thofe of Tunquin {pring from the mountains of Yyn,
nan s and in the rainy feafon, fram Mey to September, inundate the ad.
jacent country. The chief is the Holi Kian, which, after receiving the Li.
fien paffes by Kefho the capital. ‘This city'is defcribed. by Dampier, 35
approaching the Chinefe form, with a confiderable population. ‘There is
no recent defcription of this country, which however rather refembles 4
Chineéfe province, and is loft in the confideration “of. that ftupendous
empire. ;
In the gulph of ees and adjacent’Ghinefe fea, the tuffons, or
as they have been quaintly latinifed, tpphonts are tremendous, «They
are preceded by very fine weather, a prefaging cloud appears in the north.
eaft, black near the horizon, edged with copper colour on the upper part
’ fading into a glaring white. It often exhibits a ghaftly appearance
twelve hours before the typhon burits; its rage lafts many hours from
the north-eaft, attended with dreadful claps of thunder, large and fre.
quent flafhes of lightning, and exceflive hard rains. Then it finks into
a dead calm, after which it begins again with redoubled rage from the
fouth-weft, and continues an equal length of time *."'
The defcription of the various kingdoms af Exterior India being thus
completed, as far as the prefent defign and the imperfeét material,
would admit, the geographical progrefe muft return to the wel.
ward, and difcufs the wide regions of Hindoftan, a difficult but in.
terelting theme.
HINDOSTAN,
INTRODUCTION.
General Obfervations.— Arrangement.— Natural and Political Divifions.—
Plan of this prefent Defeription.
HE defcription of this interefting por-
Govanat onocrarny.) “Tin ot Afia is not a little dificu,
from its vait and irregular extent, from the want of grand fubdivifions,
from the diverfity of nations and powers, large foreign fettlements, and
other caufes, fo that the firft obje& muft be to determine a clear and
natural arrangement. | is
Mr. Pennant, who often excels in geographical delineation, has, in
his view of Hindoftan, been contented vith the vague divifions of
Weftern, Eaftern, and Gangetic, or that part which is pervaded by
the Ganges, and its tributary ftreams. Major Rennell, to whom ve
are indebted for an excellent map and memoir, which have thrown
reat light on Indian geography, firft confiders the fea coat and
iflands ; as, in the conftruction of a map, the outline of the coatt is the
earlieft obje&t, He then defcribes Hindoftan in foyr other fecions:
3, That part occupied by the Ganges and its principal branches:
* # Pennant, Outlings, iii, 76.
2. That
hx
% o wae aah
.
” Borg > ‘
an tS
Po
Lage aps.
Britihh Miles
Piet Wess tecacsn =n
en 100
\ :
+ gee BARS
nt
2
‘4
A
Seeks
ores ty!
Cuirch Bcf Luniyy \Pe;
PE (ct
». Cc
Lack; Divas
p<,
S Mat
f ie. Ennkeia
—% - ———
Ye
“
Tanto Aemeneegeee! fmmennniad Lo Pau a) ama atert tater Wie nui UL) ac I Ua
74 aa wv
; Boum Areowsmiths ¢ Sheet Map of Asis
Published March 1Pites. by Cathe Davbe Strnd &:Zongmand Reet Pate
‘Innksiaien lf
Ww)
niths ¢ Sheet Map ofAsis ;
mvs Sind A Lungnand Rect Paternoster
Lage a3.
2, ‘That occupied b
3. The track fituated
jions :' 4+ ‘The’ count
improperly called the
ftyled a peninfula, in ¢
by the fea.
GENERAL DIVISION
feems the beft, not on
profound acquaintance
being familiar to the
work. Amid the w
can be affigned as na
form limits, the <vunt
may be coundered as
Gangetic part of Hin
fpace from the cenfin
Sippra, and from the
molt eaftern boundary
That portion watered
may in like manner be
to this divifion may b
tracts to the welt of ¢
The fouthern part is
where the river Kiftna
In ancient times this p
plying the fouth. But
far in a northerly dire¢
would in fact, with the
plete the whole of Hi
ued for the portion ta
That portion on the
Hindoftan’on the nortl
mentary provinces on t
Central Hindoftan.
In this arrangement
Allahabad, Oude, Agr
Sindetic contains Kutt
tan, and Sindé.
The central divifion
Berar, Oriffa, the Sir
Dowlatabad, and Conc
The fouthern divifio'
fore, the extenfive regi
Madura, and other {m
that of Malabar, and 1
is naturally included tl
POLITICAL DIVISIONS
neral view of Hindoftan.
seat Of thefe th
tom European tactics,
| equal to that of any nai
Gangetic Hindoftan, «
below the eftuary of th
government of lV’ dras
the fouth and weft of
_ HINDOSTAN. 45
2, That occipied by the courfe of the Sindé, Sindeh, or river Indus :
3. The track fituated between the river Kiftna and the two former divi-
jions' 4. The countries to the fouth of the Kiftna, or what is perhaps
improperly called the fouthern peninfula, as no part of Hindoftan can be
ftyled a peninfula, in the modern acceptation of being nearly furrounded
the fea.
"Gawain pivisions.] The general plan adopted by Major Rennell.
feems the beft, not only in itfelf, as was to have been expected from his
profound acquaintance with the fubjeét, but as having the advantage of
being familiar to the public, from the widely diffufed reputation of his
work. Amidét the want of important ranges of mountains, rivers alone:
can be affigned as natural divifions ; and as in Hindoftan they do not
form limits, the cuuntries pervaded by their courfes and tributary ftreams:
may be coundered as detached by the hand of nature. Hence the
Gangetic part of Hindoftan, to ufe Mr. Pennant’s term, includes the
fpace from the cenfines of Tibet to the fources of the Chumbul and
Sippra, and from the mountains near Agimere and Abugur hills, to the
molt eaftern boundary of Hindoftan.
That portion watered by the Sindé or Indus, and its fubfidiary ftreams,
may in like manner be termed Sindetic Hindoftan ; and as a fupplement
to this divifion may be confidered the country of Sirhind, and other
tracts to the weft of Gangetic Hindoftan.
The fouthern part is encompaffed by the fea, except on the north,
where the river Kiftna and its fubfidiary ftreams form the boundary.
In ancient times this portion was ftyled Deccan, a native term im-
plying the fouth. But the Deccan of the Hindoos extended twice as
far in a northerly dire€tion, even to the river Nerbudda; fo that it
would in fat, with the Gangetic and Sindetic divifions, ‘nearly com-
plete the whole of Hindoftan. The term Deccan is therefore hete
ued for the portion to the fouth of the Kiftna.
That portion on the north of the Kiftna, reaching to Gangetic
Hindoftan’on the north and eaft, and the Sindetic with its fupple-
mentary provinces on the north and weft, may be ftyled Interior or
Central Hindoftan.
In this arrangement the Gangetic part will include Bengal, Bahar,
Allahabad, Oude, Agra, and a part of Delhi and Agimere. The
Sindetic contains Kuttore, Cafhmir, Cabul, Candahar, Lahore, Moul-
tan, and Sindé. :
The central divifion reprefents Guzerat in the weft, with Candeifh,
Berar, Oriffa, the Sircars, the chief part of Golconda, Vifiapour,
Dowlatabad, and Concan. Hh :
The fouthern divifion includes a {mall portion of Golconda, My-
fore, the extenfive region called in modern times the Carnatic, with
Madura, and other {fmaller diftri€ts, the weltern. coaft being: called
that of Malabar, and the eaftern that of Coromandel. In this part
is naturally included the ifland of Ceylon. , Gas
PotiticaL pivistons.] The next topic to be confidered, inia ge-
neral view of Hindoftan, is its political fituation as divided among various
pots. Of: thefe the Ehglith is at prefent. preponderant,” not onl
tom European taétics,. but from an a¢tual extent of territory at lea
| equal to that of any native power. To our former wide pofleffions ‘in
Gangetic Hindoftan, with a large portion of the eaftern coaft from
below the eftuary of the Kiftta to the lake of Chilka, and the gietached
government of lv: dras, have. been recently added extenfive regions ip
the fouth and weft of: Myfore, with Seringapatam the’ capital, not to.
: * mention
HINDOSTAN.
mention Bombay and other detached eftablifhments. And the large and
important ifland of Ceylon has been wrefted from the Dutch.
Next in confequence are the Maratta ftates, chiefiy contained in the
central divifion of Hindoftan. :
The Nizam, or Soubah of the Deccan, our firm ally, has confiderably
enlarged his territory in the fouth at the expence of Tippoo; the
central part of whofe dominions, except Seringapatam, is fubje& to
the Raja of Myfore, a defcendant of the race dethroned by Hyder,
an ufurper. ;
The Britith, the Marattas, and the Nizam, may be regarded as the
three leading powers, to which may be added on the weft, or on the Sin.
detic divifion, the Seiks and Zemaun Shah, or whatever prince holds
the eaftern divifion of Perfia.
The following table, extraéted, with a few alterations, from Major
Rennell’s Memoir, will convey a more complete and fatisfactory idea of
this important topic.
416
I. Britisu Possessions.
a. Bengal and Bahar, with the Zemindary of Benares.
2. Northern Sircars, including Guntoor.
*3. Barra-Mahal, and Dindigu
4. Jaghire in the Carnatic.
*5. The Calicut, Palicaud, and Coorga countries,
If. British ALviEs.
1. Azuph Dowilah. Oude.
2. Mahomed Alli. Carnatic.
3. Travancore, and Cochin.
III. Maratra STArEs.
TRIBUTARIES.
Poona MarattTas.
1. Malwa. 1. Rajah of Jyenagur.
2. Candeifh. 2. pour.
3 area Anotangen or Dow- 3 | Oudipour.
4 Vifiapour. 4. Narwah.
4. Part of Guzerat. 5+ ———. Gohud.
6. Agra. 6. Part of Bundelcund.
7 Agimere. 7. Mahomed Hyat. Bopaltol.
8. Allahabad. 8. Futty Sing. Amedabad.
| g. Shanoor, or Sanore, Banca- g. Gurry Mundella, &c. &c.
| _ pour, Darwar, &c. fituated in
the Dooab, or country be-
tween the Kiftna and Tombu-
dra rivers.
TritpurTARY.
Bembajee.
Beran Maratras.
4. Berar.
2. Oriffa.
© Theeountries thus marked, are acquifitions fiom Tippoo Sultan under the late trey
Sf Serings . To which muft now be added Coimbetore, Canara, and other diftridts ac-
«quisedin 1799. See Rennell's Supplementary Mep, dated 5th April eek a
» NI
y. Golgond
2. Aten a
3. Beder.
4. Part of P
js
Canoul,
6. Cuddapali
Lal
As the other
garded as foreig
1. Suce
2. Jats,
3. ee
4. Adji
5. Bud
6. Littl
Tow
The Britith pe
fo contain 19744
arecomprifed in
number of inhabj
1799 probably ac
Great Britain is {
ceeded three milli
at 400,0001. ; w
that fum. ‘This
tained in the mid
‘xampled in ancie
The Marattas ;
or the weftern, a
chiefs or princes,
fovereign. An ad
of Hindoftan,
middle of the fey
dable to the neig
Hindoos, who abo
gra ~The Afy
mountains between
Before clofing th
country, it may be
n confidered ag
ut the power of {
Was moft eminent in
unfubdued till] the ti
' called the peninf
cepted, were eith
hi *, When A
7 a had obtained
of Ntude, (about
a
IV. Nizam Aut, Sousan or tHE Deccan
y. Golgonda. ° Combam) and Gandicotta (or
2. Aurungabad. Ganjecotta).
3. Beder. 4%. Part of Gooty, Adoni, and
y. Part of Borat, _ ° « Canoul,
5. ——— Adcai, Rachore, and 8. Part of the Dooab.
Canoul. {9. Other diftriéts acquired in
6, Cuddapalii Cummum (or 1799+]
| V. Serks.
Lahore, Moultan, and the weftern parts of Delhi.
As the other great power chiefly extends over Perfia, and may be re-
garded as foreign, it only remains to mention the fuiall ftates,
I. etme of Zabeda Cawn. Sehaurunpour,
2. Jats. ;
3. Pattan Rohillas. Furruckabad.
4- Adjig Sing. Rewah, &c.
5. Buudeleund, or Bundela,
6. Little Ballogiftan.
To which may now be added the Raja of Myfore.
The Britith poffeffions prior to the fall of Tippoo, 1799, were fuppofed
tocontain 197,496 {quare Britith miles, being about 60,000 more than
ae comprifed in the united kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland: the
number of inhabitants was computed at ten millions. T'he acquifition in
1199 probably adds 15,000 fquare miles, and the population fubje& to
Great Britain is fuppofed to be 12 or 14,000,000. The net revenue ex»
ceeded three millions before the ceffions by Tippoo in 1792, computed
at 400,0001.; while thofe in 1799 do not appear much to exceed half
that fum. ‘This great power and revenue of {fo diftant a country, main-
tained in the midit of a highly civilized foreign nation, is perhaps um
exampled in ancient or modern times.
The Marattas are divided into two flates or empires, that of Poona,
or the weftern, and Berar, or the eaitern: each ruled by a number of
chiefs or princes, who pay a nominal obedience to the paifhwa, or
fovereign. An account of the Marattas belongs to the central divifion
of Hindoftan, ‘The Seiks, a new religious fect, firlt appeared in the
middle of the feventeenth century, and have gradually become formia
dable to the neighbouring ftates. The Jats, or Jets, were a tribe of
Hindoos, who about a century ago erected a {tate around the capital
Agra. The Afghans, another peculiar people, originated from the
mountains between Perfia and India.
Before clofing thefe general confiderations with regard to this extenfive
country, it may be proper to obferve that “the name of Hindoftan has
been eonfidered, as Hocdlinous with the empire of tie great Mongul.
But the power of the Monguls, which commenced under Baber, 1518,
was moft eminent in the northern parts, the Deccan, or fouth, remaining
unfubdued till the time of Aurunzeb, 1678, when that region, with what
is called the peninfula, a few mountainous and inacceflible traéts only
excepted, were either vanquithed or rendered tributary to the throne of
Delhi*, ‘When Aurunzeb died in 1707, in his goth year, the Mongul
rs had obtained its utmoft extent from the roth to the 35th degree
oflatitude, (about 1750 Britifh miles,) and about as much in length ;
* Rennell’s Memoir, page Ixi,
Ee the
a8 HINDOSTAN.
the revenue exceeding thirty-two millions fterling, in a country where
provifions are about four times‘us chgap as in England. The number of
his fubjeéts may be computed at about fixty millions. - But this great
power declined fo rapidly, that within fifty years after his death it ma
be faid to have been annihilated, and the empire of the great Mongul has
vanifhed from modern geography.
The plan to be purfued, in the fubfequent brief account of Hindoftan,
has been above indicated as divided into four parts; the region on the
Ganges, thofe on the Indus, the central, and the fouthern. In three of
thefe divifions the Britifh poffeffions are powerful, if not predominant ;
and it is difficult to conme& the political with the natura geography,
Doubts may juttly arife whether the Britifh territories ought not to rorm
a feparate’ and dittin& portion, in a perfpicuous arrangement, this being
another of the peculiar difficulties which attend the geograph of Hin.
doftan. But as the grand mafs of the population in thefe flocs
confifts of native Hindoos, and the natural geography of the country
mutt not be facrificed to any extraneous confideration, it ftill feems pre-
ferable to abide by the divifion already laid down. Hence that form of
defcription muft be chofen which, rolling on the perpetual foundations of
nature, cannot be injured or obliterated by the deftinies of man.
Thefe confiderations being premifed, a fimilar arrangement fhall here
be followed in defcribing Hindoftan, a labyrinth of eaftern geography,
with that ufed in delineating Germany, that labyrinth of Europea
eography. A general view of the whole region fhall be followed by
Riccefiite chapters on each of the above divifions; in which the feveral
ftates, ‘chief cities, and other geographical topics, fhall be briefly
illuftratec.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL VIEW OF HINDOSTAN.
Name.— Boundaries.— Original Population.— Progrefive Geography.
Lifer — C. Destiey aver Epochs. ny Monuments.—
ythology. — Religion. — Government.— Laws. — Population. — General
Revenues. — Political Importance.—— Manners and C Spray
— Literature. — Ancient Civilization.— Univerfities.— Inland Navigation,
— Manufadures.—Native Produ&s.—Climate and Seafons.—General
Face 7" the Country. — Soil. — Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains. — De-'
ferts. — Forefts.— Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters
— Natural Curiofities.
N HE native name of this celebrated country is faid to be
aus.) inthe ancient Sanfcrit language Bharata*. That of
Hindoftan feeeme to have been impofed by the Perfians, and derived,
like the elaffical name India, from the great weftern river, with the
Perfian termination Zan or Stan, which fignifies a country. _It was long
known, as already mentioned, by the name of the empire of the Great
Mogul, becaufe it was then fubjeét to Mongul emperors, fucceflors of
Timur.
Bounpanigs.] This portion of Afia extends from Cape Comari,
* Rennel, nx. from Wilkins; but the proper native term feems to be Medhyame, and
Bharat was the firit hing. Af, Ref, ig 41% ‘ 4d
call
maps, from
being twent
The northe
and mounta
Kuttore.
that is, fro
longitude fr
conttitute a
paratively, i
and the Raf
the remainde
The ects
tioned, On
the frontier ti
boundaries are
eatern extrem
which divide
The northern
Tibetian Alps
tan from the fi
never having: f
Tibet, and as
ORIGINAL 1
confidered as
Yet in fo exte
and fituation,
being fairer in
black, but wit
women and fu
agreeable mixtt
he faid to appre
conquefts of H
may be fome fi;
° of the ancie
uceda group o
ocean feven
of Albanians w
nown to have
| eaft of the Cafp
called Moors,
Proaressive
may be faid to be
the age of this pri
Arrian, and Pi
One of the moft
Ptolemy, but the
inquirer, Far fr
to the fouth, he
almot in a line to
third part of Hit
Taprobana, or C
HINDOSTAN. aty
where called by navigators Comorin, in the fouth, to the mountains which forn
yer of the northern boundary of Cafhmir; that is, according to the mott recent
great maps, from about the 8th to about the 35th degree of northern latitudy
it may being twenty-feven degrees, or 1620 B: miles, nearly equal to 1890 BritifL
ul has The northern boundary may be yet farther extended to the Hindoo Kol
and mountains running E. and W. on the north of the province f
4
Joftan, Kuttore.
on the From the river Araba, on the weft of the province of Sinde, to tls
hree of mountains which divide Bengal from Caffay and the Birman dominion:
ninant 5, that is, from aboui the fixty-fixth to the ninety-fecond degree of eaf
sraphy, longitude fron: Greenwich, there are 26°, which in the latitude of 25°
o form conttitute a breadth of more than 1400 g. miles;:or 1600 Britifh. Com-s
3 being agit if we .exclude Scandinavia, the former kingdom of Poland,
f Hin. and the Ruffian empire, the extent may be confidered as equal to that of
lements the remainder of Europe.
country The boundaries are marked on the north by the mountains above men-
Ms pre- tioned, On the weft, towards Perfia, other ranges and deferts conttitute
form of the frontier till the fouthern feparation ends in the river Araba. The other
ations of boundaries are fupplied by the Indian ocean and Bay of Bengal, where the
eatern extremity is limited by the little river Naat, and thofe mountains
all here which divide the Britifh poffeflions from Aracan, Caflay, and Cafhur.
graphy, The northern boundary generally coniilts of the fouthern ridges of the
Uropean Tibetian Alps. Onthe N. E.of Bengal a fimilar ridge divides Hindof-
owed by tan from the {mall territory of Afam, which feems an independent ftate,
e feveral never having formed a portion of Hindoftan, of dubious connection with
>» briefly Tibet, and as yet unfubdued by the Birmang,
OxiGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population may be generally
confidered as indigenous, or, in other words, peculiar to the country.
Yet in fo extenfive a region, and amidft the great diverfity of climate
and fituation, the native race prefents confiderable varieties, efpecially as
being fairer in the northern parts, and in the fouthern almoft or wholly
Hack, but without the negro wool or features, Still the tinge of the
women and fuperior elaine is deep olive, with fometimes a flight and
agreeable mixture of the ruddy, and the Hindoo form and features may
be faid to approach the Perfian or European ftandard. The fole ancient
conquefts of Hindoftan having proceeded from the N. W. and weft, there
may be fome flight*admixture of the Perfians, of the Greeks of Baétriana,
and of the ancient Scythians. More recently Mahmud of Ghizni intro.
duceda group of Mahometans of various origins. The Patansor Afgans
proceeded from the mountaina towards Perfia, being afferted to be a tribe
of Albanians who emigrated to the eaftward. The Monguls are well
known to have included many Tatars, and Mahometan tribes from the
| a : hs Cafpian. Thefé, with the Arabe and Perfians, are generally
called Moors,
raphy. —
ments -_-
General
Waters.
aid to be
That of PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The progreffive geography of Hindoftan
derived, may be faid to begin with the vitories of Alexander the Great. After
with the the age of this prince many Greek and Roman authors, particularly Strabo,
was long Arrian, and Pliny, have left information concerning the {tate of India.
1e Great JW One of the moft important ancient records is the defcription and map of
cefiorsof HM Ptolemy, but they are fo much diftorted as to embarrafs the moft learned
inquirer, Far from reprefenting India in ite juft form, as itretching far
Comari, [i to the fouth, he fup es the ocean to flow from the gulph of Cambay,
almoft in a line to the lake of Chilka, thus immerfing under the waves a
third partof Hindoftan, At the fame time he affigns to the ifland of
Taprobana, or Ceylon, a enormous and fabulous extent.
Eea A fimie
pyamns and
called
42 HINDOSTAN.
A fimilar inftance indeed occurs in Bifhop Leflie’s map of Scotland, in
wich the ifle of Hirta or St. Hilda is reprefented as three times as large
asMull ; and perhaps the extent of Taprobana was in like manner {welled
frm its celebrity ; or drawn'by fome mariner and followed by Ptolemy in
hidefcription, without obferving the fie of the feale.
This celebrated country received little farther illuftration till the fixth
cetury : the intelligence however of Cofmas is of no confequence, except
ast elucidates the Perfian traffic with India. Some materials may alfo
b derived from the accounts of the Mahometan travellers in the ninth
¢ntury, and the oriental works of geography; nor was the great Englith
ting, Alfred, incurious concerning this celebrated region *. Marco Polo,
the father of eaflern geography as known to purapeanes was followed by
other travellers ; and iy es th the Portuguefe difcovery of the Cape of
Good Hope gradually led the way to the precifion of modern knowledge,
to which a recent geographer, Major Rennell, has contributed with great
f{uccefs and deferved celebrity. ‘
History. ] The hiftory of Hindoftan is a moft obfcure and embroiled
. fubje&, as either no native chronicles were written, or they were deftroyed
by the Bramins, anxious to obliterate the memory of former and happier
ages, when their inordinate power was not eftablifhed. Sir William Jones
and Anquetil du Perron have beftowed fome attention on this fubjed ;
but their inveftigations are more interefting to the antiquary than to the
general reader +. The native traditions feem to defcribe the northern part
of Hindoftan as fubjec to one raja or fovereign, which is little probable,
as the moft ancient extraneous accounts reprefent this wide country di.
vided, as was to be expected, into many monarchies. By all accounts,
however, the Deccan, or fouthern'part, was ine to a diftin& emperor,
even to modern times. ‘ Its emperors of the Bahmineah dynafty (which
commenced with Haflan Caco, A.D. 1347), appear to have exceeded
in power and fplendour thofe of Delhi, even at- the moft flourithing
periods of their hiftory. The feat of government was at Calberga,
which was centrical to the great hody of the empire, and is at this day a
confiderable city. Like other overgrown empires, it fell to pieces with
its own weight, and out of it were formed four potent kingdoms, under
the names of Vifiapour (properly Bejapour), Golconda, Berar, and
Amednagur, of whofe particular limits and inferior members we are not
well informed. Each of thefe fubfifted with a confiderable degree of
power until the Mogul conqueft ; and the two firft, as we have feen
above, preferved their independency until the time of Arungzebe f."
CuronoLocy.}] The Hindoo Chronology, ublitbed by Anquetil du
Perron, is that of the rajas or fovereigns of Bengal ; and the mott re-
markable facts are repeated invafions by the Perfians, one of them fup-
pofed to be fourteen centuries before the Chriftian era. This ray om
of Bengal feems to have included almeft the whole of Gangetic Hin-
doftan. But the names and extent of the early kingdoms of Hindoftan
are little known or inveftigated. ses
Hisroricau evocus.] The Hindoo epochs, confifting of millions of
® The Saxon chronicle, and other Englith writers, mention that Suithelm, bithp of
Shireburn, carried a prefent from Alfred to the, fhrine of St. Thomas in India, and re-
turned in fafety with fome curiofities from the » This Thomas was not the
apofile, but fome Neftorian miffionary; and his fhrine is at Melapour, nears Madras, on
the coaft of Coromandel. Alfred little forefaw that an Englith fetslement was to include
this holy ground. ,
+ Afiatic Refearches, vol, ii. and Bernouilli’s Colleftion concerning India. Berlip, 1766,
Ago, tome ii, 3 Rennell, liz.
year
little advanta
ceeded by his f
abilities, and exy
of his territories
sow, Mt. Bentley of
ifthe y
vith regard to the ¢
regard as rather
while the Brulinine
years, and
attention t
account of
them. W)
concerning
in lefs impa
The Hin
the beft mat
himfelf, a P
inning: of t
fe Hindloo L
defect of na
from foreign
1. The ir
divided amo
than Lahore
to one fovers
been clear an
2 Atal
by Mahmouc
3. The dy:
A.D. 1205,’
4. The Gr
and continued
to 1760,
The invafic
form remarka
may be faid to
ever we
an to prec
lob of their
Englith had lo
into Tanjore,
Other contetts
or what we ca
fettlement in
countrymen pe
chamber, Th
tion of the ff
Bengal, 1765,
har, and pa
after the Engli
of fortune, who
and extended h
bllowed on th
t' into one
Wlatabad, formed
atge
elled
my in
fixth
xcept
y alfo
ninth
nglith
Polo,
ved by
ape of
‘ledge,
h great
broiled
ftroyed
happier
m Jones
ubjed ;
n to the
ern part
robable,
intry die
ccounts,
emperor,
y Gihich
exceeded
purifhing
alberga,
his day a
bces with
$, under
rar, and
are not
gree of
have feen
hillions of
HINDOSTAN. 421
years, and other fabulous circumftances, have hitherto attraéted more
attention than a clear arrangement of the Hindoo fovereignties, and an
account of the moft authentic facts that can be recovered concerning
them. While thefe chronologies differ by one or two thoufand years
concerning the incarnation of Budha, we may judge of their exactnefs
in lefs important events.
The Hindoos never feem to have boafted of one native hiftorian, and
the beft materials are derived from Perfian Memoirs; from which Ferifhta,
himfelf, a Perfian, compiled his hiftories of Hindoftan towards the be-
ginning of the feventeenth century. Indeed in the whole complex maze
of Hindoo literature there is a {triking deficiency of. good fenfe *. In this
defect of native records we mult be contented with the epochs derived
from foreign fources.
1. The invafion by Alexander the Great, who found Weftern India
divided among numerous potentates, though he advanced little farther
than Lahore. If even the northern half of Hindoftan had been fubje&
to one fovereign, as fabled in the native tales, the circumftance would have
been clear and apparent.
2, At a long interval appears the conqueft of the north-weftern part
by Mahmoud of Ghizni, A.D. 1000. .
3. The dynafty of the Patan, or Afghan emperors, begins with Cuttub,
A.D. 1205, and ends with Mahmoud IIT. 1393.
4, The Great Moguls, or Mongul emperors, begin with Babar, 1525 ;
and continued, with a fhort interruption, by the Patans to Shah Aulum,
to 1760. .
The invafion by Timvr, and, at a diftant interval, that by Nadir, alfo
form remarkable epochs in the hiftory of this paflive country. The latter
may be faid to have virtually diffolved the Mogul empire. Th Portuguefe
fettlements were foll@wed by thefe of the Dutch. The French power
ae to predominate in 1749, but f{peedily clofed in 1761, with the
lofs of their principal fettlement, Pondicherry. As merchants, the
Englifh had lony held {mall fettlements in Hindoftan ; but the expedition
into Tanjore, 1749, was the firft enterprize againft a native prince.
Other contefts followed concerning Arcot in the kingdom of Carnada,
or what we call the Carnatic. In 1756 the fort of Calcutta, our chief
fettlement in Bengal, was taken by the nabob, and many of our brave
countrymen perifhed in a fhocking manner, from being coucned in a {mall
chamber. The battle of Plafley, fought in June 1757, laid the founda-
tion of the fubfequent power of Britain. Lord Clive, governor of
Bengal, 1765, obtained a grant from the nominal Mogul of Bengal,
Bahar, and part of Oriffa, on condition of an annual tribute. Soon
after the Englith were engaged in a conteft with Hyder Alli, a foldier
of fortune, who had dethroned the lineal fovereign of Mayffur or Myfore,
and extended his conquefts to the adjacent territories. Some confliés
followed on the confines of Carnada and Myfore ; but the event was
little advantageous to either party. Hyder, dying in 1783, was fuc-
ceeded by his fon Tippoo, va Soins to have been a prince of inferior
abilities, and expiated his ill arranged plans by his death, and the partition
of his territories, in 1799.
vo, Mt. Bentley obferves, Af. Ref. v.915, that the Hindoo eras and dates are all blended
ir into one mafs of abfurdity and contradiftion, A curious inftance of this ai
vith regard to the celebrated temples of Kilora, and the fingular forwefs of Deoghir, or
Dowlatabad, formed on a high conic rock; for the Mahometans, whom we Europeans
regard as rather extravagant in chronology, fay that they were ereéted 900 years ago;
while the Braunins affirin that they have fied not lefs than 7694 years! AS, Ref, vi 385.
E
°3 The
ea HINDOSTAN.
The Befgal provinces have been in our poffeffion fince 1765 ; and
Benares was added in 1775. This portion might conititute a confiderable
kingdom, and is fufficiently compact and fecure by natural advantages,
independently of a formidable force. The Sircars, or detached provinces,
partly belong to Golconda,. and partly to Oriffa, forming a long narrow
flip of country from twenty to feventy-five miles wide, but about three
hundred and fifty in length.’ The word Sircar is almoft fynonymous with
an Englith county, implying a divifion of a Souba, or great Province ;
and thefe d2tached Sircars or counties, being to the north of Madras on
which they are dependent, are commonly ftyled the northern Sircars *, J),
1754 they were acquired by the French ; and conquered by the Englith
under Colonel Clive in 1759.
The Englith fettled at Madras about the year 16403 and their territory
here extends about ahundred and eight Britith miles along the fhore, and
forty-feven in breadth, in the centre of the ancient kingdom of Carnada,
The récent and extenfive acquilitions in the fouth have been already
mentioned.
Nor among the modern hiftorical epochs of Hindoftan mutt the cele.
brated battle’ of Panniput, not far to the N.W. of Delhi, be omitted,
which was fought in 1761, between the Mahometans under Abdalha
king of Candahar, and the Marattas, in which the latter were de.
feated ; the Mahometans were computed at 150,000, and the Marattas
at 200,000.
ANCIENT MONUMENTS. ] The ancient monuments of Hindoftan are
very numerous, and of various defcriptions, exclufive of the tombs and
other edifices of the Mahometan conquerors. Some of the moft remark.
able are excavated temples, ftatues, relievos, &c. in an ifland near Bom.
bay t. The idols reprefented feem clearly to belong to the prefent my.
thology of Hindoftan ; but at what period thefe edifices were modelled,
whether three hundred or three thoufand years ago, mutt be left in the
darknefs of Hindoo chronology. Several ancient grants of lands, fome ,
coins and feals, have alfo been found, Yet all thefe remains little cor.
refpond with the exaggerated ideas entertained concerning the early civie ’
lization of this renowned country; while the Egyptian pyramids, tem.
ples, and obelifks, itrongly confirm, the accounts preferved by the
ancient hiftorians.
Myruotocy.] Though the mythology of the Hindoos may pretend
to great antiquity, yet their prefent form of religion is fuppofed to vary
contiderably from the ancient. It is inferred that while the religion of
Boodha, ftill retained by the Birmans and other adjacent nations, was
the real ancient fyftem of Hindoftan, the artful Bramins have introduced
many innovations in order to increafe their own power and influence, In
a fyfiem fo full of imagination it is no wonder that the analyfes are fome-
times difcordant, but it appears that the fabric refts on that almoft uni.
verfal fyftem of the eaft, the belicf in.a fupreme Creator tao ineffable
and fublime for human adoration, which is therefore addreffed to inferior,
but great and powerful divinities, = Oe
Revicion.] The religion of the Hindoos is artfully interwoven with
the common offices of tife and the-different cafts are f1;;; -fed to origi:
nate from Brahma, the immediate agent of creation ucdex-the fupreme |
power, in the following manner ;
The Brahmin from the mouth (wifdom) ; To pray, to read, to ine
ftruc
t Af, Ref, vol. i, and vie
# Rennell, caxxive *
49 Th
The Ch
to govern.
he Br
neceflaries
J “he Soo
The anci
tual orders
impoffible t
felves exifte
For it woul
or monks ot
of Boodh,
member of
courfe deem
thé meaneft
ting the ridic
the queftion,
conteft had a
inftead of bei
asin Tibet.
the priefthoo
was natural,
innate and he
GoveRNM
the form of |
Suffice it her
calt, yet ther
in the furroun
military catt,
the lands, exc
poffeffions by
Zemindars we
from the Ryo!
landed gentler
sfetled propa
Laws.] Th
ligion, and the
lithed by the di
PopuLATIO}
pofed to amour
now perhaps c:
have thinned tl
It is confiderec
and yet is faid
judge of the t
vilionary call of
ENERAL R)
computed in t
precife calculati
millions fterlin
of produds, to
and,
PouiticaL 1
HINDOSTAN. 423
The Chebterce, from the arms (ftrength) : To draw the bow, to fight,
bbl aly - . rah
, he Brice, from the belly or thighs (nourifhment).: To provide the
ae neceflaries of life by agriculture and traffic.
A si The Sooder, from the feet (fubjeGtion) : To labour, to ferve *.
‘ ren The ancients fometimes enlarged the number of thefe cafts, or perpe-
Hewich tual orders of men, by an erroneous fubdivifion of two or more, yet it is
avihans impoffible to read their accounts without perceiving that the cafts them.
vas ah felves exifted from time immemorial, but with one important variation,
3%, Tk For it would appear that in ancient times the Brahmans like the prielts,
Englith ot monks of Ava, Siam, and other ftates which ftill follow the worthip
of Boodh, were not hereditary or a diftinct Levitical tribe, but that any
setios member of the other cafts might enter into this order, which was of
fe a courfe deemed. inferior to the chief fecular or military caft. At prefent
“eritads the meaneft Brahmin will not condefcend to eat with his fovereign. Set-
alan ting the ridiculous and fanciful tales of this interefted tribe wholly out of
y the queftion, it would appear that in the ufual circle of human affairs, a
Hie cole: conteft had arifen between the re al and ecclefiaftical powers. The latter,
amnitted inftead of being fubdued, asin China and Japan, acquired the fuperiority,
A bdalha asin Tibet. But in Hindoftan, from a mott refined and cunning policy,
abe des the priefthood afferted the divine inftitution of the feveral caits, and as
Marattas was natural, pronounced their own to be the fupreme, and poffeffled of
innate and hereditary fanétity. -
nftan are GoveRNMENT. | Hindoftan is now divided into many governments,
wake end the form of which muft be confidered in defcribing the feveral ftates.
remarke Suffice it here to obferve that though the Bramins be the moft dignified
ar Bots cat, yet there do not feem to have been one or more high prieits, as
fent my: in the furrounding countries. The fovereignty was abandoned to the
odelled, military caft, and the monarch was prefumed to be the proprietor of all
ft in the the lands, except thofe belonging'to the church, The Ryots held their
ds, fome pofleffions by a leafe at a fixed rate, and confidered as perpetual, The
tle cons Zemindars were, in the opinion of fome, only colleétors of the royal rents
from the Ryots or farmers; but according to others the Zemindars were
landed gentlemen, who had a hereditary right to thefe rents, upon paying
afetled proportion to the crown,
Laws. ] ‘The laws of the Hindoos are intimately blended with their re-
ligion, and the curious reader may confult the code, tranflated and pub-
lihed by the dire€tion of Mr. Hatftings.
PorpuLATION.}] The population of this extenfive part of Afia is fup-
pofed to amount to fixty millions, of which the Britifh poffeffions may
now perhaps contain a quarter, efpecially as frequent recent conflicts
have thinned the population in many other parts of Hindoftan. When
it is confidered that China is about one quarter lefs than Hindoftan,
and yet is faid to contain three hundred and thirty millions, we may
judge of the boafted effeéts of Hindoo philofophy, more fit for the
vilionary call of the reclufe than to promote univerfal {pirit and induttry.
GENERAL REVENUES.] The general revenues of Hindoftan were
computed in the time of Aurunzeb, as already mentioned, by a
precife calculation of thofe of the feveral provinces, at thirty two
prly civis °
ds, tems
by the
pretend
to vary
ligion of
ons, was
roduced
ence, In
re fome-
noft uni-
ineffable
inferior,
en with
ti i te Ah : V
feu me ‘illions fterling ; equal perhaps, confidering the comparative price
: produéts, to one hundred and fixty millions fterling in modern Eng.
hy to ine and,
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE.) The political importance and relations of
® Robertfon’s Difquifition, p. 938.
Ee4 Hindoftda
Tw
w } =
at et re Sgt arn Snorer taper amend
werden
‘4 --s HINDOSTAN.
Hindoftan are now divided among many powers. So miferable was the
internal conftitution, that this wide and populous country, defended on alf
fides by ranges of mountains, has in all ages fallen a prey to every in-
vader. The fantattic inftitutions, like thofe of the ancient Perfians, pr.
went the Hindoos from forming a maritime power ; and even the final]
fleets of Siam and Pegu, which follow the more liberal dorines of
Beoodh, feem unrivalled in the hiftory of Hindoftan.
MANNERS AND cusToms.] The manners and cuftoms of the Hin.
doos are intimately blended with their religion, and are univerfally fimilar,
with a/few exceptions in mountainous and other peculiar diftriéts. One
of the moft fingular begins to expire, that of giving the living widow
to the fame flames with her hufband’s corpfe. The ancients reprefent
the Bramins as accuftomed to terminate their own lives on funeral piles
lighted by themfelves. But by what refinement of cruelty this cuftom
‘was extended to involuntary and helplefs females has not ap eared ; per.
haps the caufe was to enforce the prefervation of their hufband’s health
by making their life depend on his. But this and other monftrous jin.
ftitutions of the Bramins are treated with lenity and even ref{ped by
many authors, who feem to inherit the Greek aftonifhment at thefe fanatics,
The other manners and cuftoms of the Hindoos have been illuftrated by
many travellers. As foon asa child is born it is carefully regiftered in its
proper caft, and aftrologers are confulted concerning its Selling for the
Tindoos, like the Turks, are ftrict predeitinarians. A Bramin impofes the
name. The infant thrives by what we would call neglect ; and no where
are feen more vigour and elegance of form. The boys are generally taught
reading and writing by Bramins, but the ge are confined at home till
their twelfth year *. Polygamy is practifed, but one wife is acknow.
ledged as {upreme. It is well known that the Hindoos are extremely
abitemious, and wholly abftain from animal food and intoxicating |i.
uors ; yet if we judge from the fanatic penances, fuicides, and other
uperftitious frenzies, no where on earth is the mind fo much difor.
dered. The houfes are built of earth or bricks, covered with mortar,
” and fometimes with excellent cement, with no windows, or only {mall
apertures. There is generally only a ground floor, inclofing a cout,
with a {mall gallery fupported by flight wooden pillars. The amute.
ments confift of seliieidup proceflions ; but though dancing girls abound,
et theatrical exhibitions do not feem fo common as in the countries
farther to the eaft.
Lanouaces.] The general ancient language of Hindoftan is believed
to have been the Sanfcrit, an original and refined fpeech, compared by
Sir William Jones with the Greek and Latin. The more common
dialeéts are chiefly the following + :
1, That of Kandia in the interior of Ceylon, which is faid nearly
to refemble the Sanfcrit.
2. The Tamulac ufed in the Deccan, or fouthern part, in Madura,
Myfore, and fome parts of the Malabar coatt.
3. The Malabar anguages extending from cape Comari to the moun
tain Illi, which divides Malabar from Canara.
4 That of Canara which extends as far as Goa.
« 5. The Marafhda language. It is prevalent throughout the whole
eountry of the Marafbdi, who are very improperly called Marattas.
“© 6. The Talenga, an harmonious, nervous, mafculine, copious, and
learned language, which, like the Sanfcrit, has fifty-two characters;
See a vovage to the Eaft Indies hy Fra. Paolino da San Bartdldmen, 1800, 8vo. The
eathor’s lay name was Wefdin, an Auftrian, + Wefdin, 317, F
an
and thefe :
Orixa, in
Balangat.
every prov
characters,
each.
om Tl
in the utmce
is fpoken a
“8. Th
Nagari, an
and confifts
written.
“9. Th
kingdom of
bourhood o!
from thofe «
“10. TI
agreat fimil
Literati
valuable and
tain. There
mention eacl
age of Confi
and contradic
Hindoo liter:
The moft .
poems which
moft ancient
brity is the J
fome Puranas
years ago; ai
toamuch hig
grants of lan
extremely lo
the ‘compoun¢
fyllables ! W
clearnefs of t
tates of plain
are the puerile
tranflations of
acquired the
little interefted
compare fuch ¢
bius, or brillia
Rome, would
judgement whild
The Hindox
any rules for
exact inquirer t
has on the cor
bold affertions
ead of fucce
ANCIENT cy
Probably been
ras the
| on all
ery in-
8, pre
> {inal
ines of
e Hin.
fimilar,
One
widow
-prefent °
ral piles
-cultom
d; per-
‘3 health
TOUS ine
{pect b
finaticn,
‘rated by
ed in its
: for the
pofes the
no where
ly taught
home till
acknow.
extremely
ating li.
and other
ich difor-
mortar,
nly {mall
a court,
e amute
s abound,
countries
*
s believed
pared by
common
nid nearly
Madura,
he moun.
the whole
alias.
pious, and
aracters;
> vO. The
317.
and
HINDOSTAN. 425
and thefe are fufficient to write the latter. It is fpoken'on the coat of
Orixa, in Golconda, on the river Kifhna, and as far as the mountains of
Balangat. All thefe languages have their own alphabets: fo that in
every province you muft make yourfelf acquainted with a diftin& kind of
characters, if you with to exprefs your thoughts in the dialeét common in
each.
«7, The common Bengal language: a wretched diale&, corrup.
inthe utmoft degree. It has no V, and inftead of it employsthe B. it
is fpoken at Calcutta, and in Bengal on the banks of the Ganges.
«8. The Devangaric or Hindoftan eoguree called by fome Nagru,
Nagari, and alfo Devanagari. It is fpoken at Benares, at Venares,
and confilts of fifty-two charaéters, with which the Sanfcrit may be
written.
« 9. The Guzaratic, which has been introduced not only into the
kingdom of Guzarat, but alfe at Barfche, Surat, Tatta, and the neigh-
bourhood of the Balangat mountains. Its characters are little different
from thofe of the Devanagaric.
«“ 10. The Nepalic, which is fpoken in the kingdom of Nepal, and has
agreat fimilarity to the Devanagaric."?
LiteRATUR® ] The literature of Hindottan doubtlefs contains feveral
valuable and curious monuments; but their epochs are extremely uncer-
tain. ‘There feems no chronology of authors who fucceffively quote or
mention each other; and there is not even any great land nik like the
age of Confucius among the Chinefe. Hence little elfe than confufion
and contradiétion are to be found in the numerous accounts publifhed of
Hindoo literature.
The moft important books are the Vedas; there are alfo fome epic
poems which pretend to contain fragments of genuine hiftory. ‘ The
moft ancient called Ramayana, was written by Valmici; and next in cele-
brity is the Mahabarat of Vyafa, who is faid to have been the author of
fome Puranas, and of courfe could not have flourifhed above feven hundred
years ago ; and it is probable that the more ancient poem cannot. afpire
toamuch higher date. It isa great fingularity that the old Hindoo
grants of land, many of which have been tranflated and publifhed, are
extremely long, and in a ftrange poetical or inflated ftyle, fome of
the‘compound words confifting of not lefs than one hundred and fifty
fyllables ! When we compare thefe fingularities with the brevity and
clearnefs of the Greek and Roman infcriptions, and the unbiaffed dic-
tates of plain good fenfe, we are led to conclude that the Hindoos
are the puerile ie of a capricious imagination. And though fome
tranflations of their belt works have already appeared, they have not
acquired the fmalleft degree of European reputation ; and have very
little interefted a few curious inquirers, though eager to be pleafed. ‘To
compare fuch tedious trifles, alike deftitute of good fenfe, vigorous ge-
nius, or brilliant fancy, with the immortal produétions of Greece or
Rome, would only confirm the idea, that the climate itfelf impairs
judgment while it inflames imagination.
The Hindoos are ignorant of the Chinefe art of printing, nor have we
any rules for determining the antiquity of their manufcripts. To an
exact inquirer this se Ml been the firft topic of invettigation; but it
has on the contrary been completely negle€ted. We have merely the
bold affertions of Bramins, early imbibed by European credulity, in- -
ead of fucceffive arguments and proofs,
ANCIENT CIVILIZATION. ] The ancient civilization of the Hiadoos has
probably been greatly exaggerated both with regard to its degre, rh
the
426 HINDOSTAN.
the length of its duration, they are neverthelefs at prefent in general
highly civilized, and of the molt gentle and amiable manners. But per.
haps In no art or {cience are they equal to the Chinefe or Japanefe ; and
in moft are confeffedly greatly inferior.
Universitizs.] The chief univerfity in the north is that of Benares,
a moft celebrated and ancient fchool, now included in the Englith pof.
feflions. Inthe Deccan the academy of Triciur, on the Malabar coat, is
alfo in great repute. ‘At Cangiburam, in Carnate, there is ftill a cele.
brated Brahman fchool, which according to the teftimony of Ptolemy,
exifted in the firit century of the chriftian era; and its members are
certainly equal in celebrity to the Brahmans of Venares, or Benares *,
It is to be hoped that our recent acquifitions in the fouth will lead
to the difcovery of new literary treafures in that quarter, where it is
to be expected that native knowledge is more pure and perfe& than
in the north, where it was fo long trampled under foot by the Ma.
hometan conquerors.
INLAND NAVIGATION.] With refpe& to inland navigation, Hindoftan
forms a {triking contraft with China. In the fourteeath century Feroz III,
of the Patan dynafty, ordered fome fhort canals to be dug in the neigh.
bourhood of Delhi; and had an intention as is faid of uniting the Ganges
with the Indus, or as ~ This intended canal, which would not have
been above one quarter the sg of the great canal of China, has been
praifed as 4 grand and wondertul defign; a-fufficient proof of the great
inferiority of the Hindoos, and their Mahometan victors, ix: the folid and
ufeful arts.
Manuractures.] The manufactures of Hindoftan have been cele.
brated from early antiquity, particularly the muflins and other fabrics
from cotton. Piece goods, as we call them, are mentioned by the author
of the Periplus, and other ancient writers, who praife the manufacture
and the beautiful colours with which it was dyed. The Hindoos, in the
time of Strabo, were alfo noted for elegant works in metals and ivory, |
Nor is Hindoftan celebrated at this day tor any manufacture, except thofe
of -muflins and calicoes, the other exports confifting of diamonds, raw
filks, with a few wrought filks, {pices, be &ec. The fhawls of Cafh.
mir-are alfo defervedly efteemeds being there woven from a material
chiefly fupplied by Tibet. Painting is in its infancy; and they are
ftrangers to fhade and perfpective. Sculpture is as little advanced as
ainting, the defign and execution being alike bad; yet the temples are
ometimes majeftic and folemn. In moft trades very few toois are em.
ployed. The fimple.loom is reared in the morning under a tree, and
carried home in the evening.
NATIVE PRODUCTS. | But it is the abundance of native produds,
which has in all ages rendered Hindoftan the centre of pets trade. Dia.
monds, and fome other precious {tones are products almoft peculiar ; as
well as many {pices, aromatics, and drugs. In modern times the tea and
porcelain of China, and other oriental articles, have been vaguely included
among thofe of the Eaft Indies, But rice, fugar, and many articles of
luxury are produéts of Hindoftan.
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] The climate .and feafons are apatisersy
diverfified by difference of latitude, and local fituation. | Yet in general,
though the northern Alps of Tibet be covered with perpetual {now, there
is fome fimilarity of climate through the wide — of Hindoftan, In
Bengal the hot, or dry feafon begins with March, and continues to the
* Wefdin, 289,
end
end of May
is fometime
the feat of
June to Sey
fant: but ¢
periodical r
where they
ret of Hind
racts from tl
extent, the 7
the Ganges
the total of it
in April ; “bi
latter end of ,
and Burramp:
ahundred mi
cepting very |
fome deferted
In the foutl
Malabar and (
intercept the
winds, called |
mountains only
the firlt part
Malabar, a cor
land of Myfore.
and from May |
on the coat of
Malabar with t
the dry months
Hence, whil
zerland and the
in Cafhmir, the
thick foos of ou
the chief varieti¢
ENERAL FA
isextremely dive
confiderable heig
above three thou.
devation, compa
wonderful extent
by numerous rive
hills The perio
tation, almoft un
vaety and rich
hectator,
So.) The fo
table mould to the
dry fandy lands o
Watering it +,
Maize and the
tention to manure
Wr perhaps jg it
HINDOSTAN. 437
neral end of May, the thermometer fometimes rifing te 110°: this intenfe beat
pers is fometimes interrupted by violent thunder itorms from the northew «ft,
) and the feat of the grand Alps of Afia. The rainy feafon continues from
June to September: the three laft months of the year are'generally plea-
nares, fant: but exceflive fogs often prevail in January and February. The
| pot. petiodical rains are alfo felt in Sindetic Hindoftan, except in Cafhmir,
alt, is where they feem to be exciuded by the furrounding mountains. “In the
\ cele. ret of Hindoftan they almoft deluge the country, defcending like cata. .
lemy, rads from the clouds, and the Ganges and other rivers {pread to a wide
rs are extent; the inundation ceafing in September. By the latter end of June
aves *, the Ganges has rifch fifteen feet and a half, out of thirty-two, which is
Il lead the total of its overflow *. In the mountains the rainy feafon begins early
re it is in April; ‘but rarely in the plains till the latter end of June. “ By the
% than latter end of July all the lower parts of Bengal, contiguous to the Ganges
e Ma- and Burrampooter, are overflowed, and form an inundation of more than
ahundred miles in width; nothing appearing but villages and trees, exa
ndoftan cepting very rarely the top of an elevated fpot (the artificial mound of
oz Ill, fome deferted village) appearing like an ifland.’?
> neigh In the fouthern divifion of the chains of the Gauts, or mountains of
Ganges Malabar and Coromandel, fupporting the high table land in the centre,
ot have intercept the great mafs of clouds ; and the alternate S.W. and N.E.
1as been winds, called the Monfoons, occafion a rainy feafon on one fide of the
le great mountains only, that is, on the windward fide. Yet it appears that during
olid and the firit part of the rainy monfoon, in May and June, on the coaft of
Malabar, a confiderable quantity of rain falls in the upper region or table
en cele. land of Myfore. ‘The monfoon is from the N.E. from O@ober to April;
r fabrics and from May to September in the oppofite direction. The rainy feafon
1¢ author on the coaft of Coromandel is with the N.E. monfoon; and on that of
ufature Malabar with the §.W.: in general, March, April, May, and June are
8, in the the dry months.
nd ivory.
ept thofe
ds, raw
of Cah.
material
they are
anced as
ples are
are ems
ree, and
Hence, while in Tibet the winter nearly correfponds with that of Swit-
zerland and the reft of Europe, inthe whole extent of Hindoftan, except
inCafhmir, there can hardly be faid to be a veftige of winter, except the
thick foes of our November: and exceflive rains, or exceffive heats, form
the chief varieties of the year. ;
GENERAL FACE OF THE COUNTRY. } The afpeé& of this wide country
isextremely diverfitied ; but in general there are no mountains of any
confiderable height, the higheit Gauts in the fouth not being eftimated at
above three thoufand feet. The frontier mountains of Tibet are of {mall
devation, compared with thofe of the interior of that country ; and the
wonderful extent of Hindoftan confitts chiefly of extenfive plains, fertilized
products, by numerous rivers and ftreams, and interfperfed with a few ranges ‘of
. Dia till. The periodical rains and intenfe heats produce luxuriance of vege.
liar 5 a8
e tea an
included
ticles of
tation, almo{t unknown to any other country on the globe; and the
ay and richnefs of the vegetable creation delight the eye of every
pe ator.
Soi. ] The foil is fometimes fo excellent as to confift of black vege.
table mould to the depth of fix feet. Rice is the chief grain ; and on the
dtyfandy lands of the coaft of Coromandel great induttry is difplayed in
watering it +.
Maize and the fugar-cane are alfo favourite produéis. Extreme at-
itntion to manure feems far from being fo general as in China or Japan ;
wr perhaps is it neceflary, The cultivation of cotton is alfo widely
fiderably
genera ’
bw, there
ftan, In
es to the
@ Rennell, 349, + Sonnerat, i, 106,
8 diffufed ;
end
HINDOSTAN. |
diffufeds and this plant particularly thrives on the dry coaft of Cor,
mandel. ;
Rivers.] In deferibing the large’and numerous rivers of Hindoftan,
the Ganges and Indus fhall be firft confidered, with their chief tributa
itreams; and a fhort account of the principal rivers in’ the central part
fhall be followed by thofe in the fouthern divifion. This arrangement
naturally arifes from the four grand divifions formerly mentioned.
The Ganges muft ftill be confidered as the facred fovereign of the
Hindoo rivers, an attribute not infringed by the recent difcovery of the
Burrampooter. It receives fuch a number of important tributary ftreams,
that its magnitude exceeds what might have been expedted from the
comparative length of its courfe; which may, however, be-eftimated at
about, fourteen hundred Britifh miles, while the Hoan-ho of China hag
been computed at two thoufand, and the Kian-ku at two thoufand two
hundred. The fource of the Ganges remains a curious objeé of inves.
gation ; nor can much reliance be placed on its delinéation in the map of
Tibet by the Chinefe lamas, publifhed by Du Halde, and followed by
all fucceeding geographers. Tieffenthaler has laid down the latitude of
the noted Gangoutra, or Cow’s mouth, in lat. 33°, being. a celebrated
catara&t where the ences is faid to ‘pafs through a vatt cavern ina
mountain, falling into a large bafon which it has worn in the rock. At
Hurdwar, about two hundred and eighty miles to the fouth of the Cow’
mouth, (if this laft be not a dream of the fabling Hindoos,) ‘the Ganges
enters the wide plains of Hindoftan ; and purfues a fouth-eatt dire@ion }
the ancient city of Canoge, once the capital of a kingdom, by Allahabad,
Benares, Patna, &c. till dividing into many grand and rp mouths,
it forms an extenfive delta at its egrefs into the gulph of Bengal. The
extreme mouths of the Ganges are interfected with ifles, called the Sun.
derbunds, overgrown with tall bamboos and other luxuriant vegetation,
the impenetrable haunts of the royal tiger and other beatts of prey. On
the weiternmoft outlet of the Ganges, called the Hoogley, or Ugh, ftands
Calcutta, the capital of Britifh Hindoftan. This, and the moft eaftern
which receives the Burrampooter, are the wideft and moft important
branches.
The nobleft tributary ftream of the Ganges is the Burrampooter, or,
as ftyled by the people of Afam, the Burrampoot, being the Sam.
poo of the Tibetans. The courfe of the river, and its junétion with
the Ganges, were firft afcertained by Major Rennell. This noble river
runs for four hundred miles through the Britifh territory ; and for the laf
60 miles before its junction with the Ganges is from four to five miles
wide. On their union below Luckipour, they form a body of running
frefh water, refempling a gulph of the fea, interfperfed with iflands,
fome of which rival in fize and fertility our Ife of Wight. Inthe
mouths of the Ganges, and the Megra, or eri bl bore ‘or
fudden influx of the tide will rife inftantaneoufly to the height of from
five to twelve feet *. Between Bengal and Tibet the Burrampoot paffes
through the country of Afam, ae ig hitherto little known, and which
may be here briefly defcribed. It is divided into two partg by the
river ; the northern being called Uttercul, and the fouthern Dachincul,
The mountains of Duleh and Landa divide Afam from Tibet +. Afam
is interfected by feveral ftreams which run into the Burrampoot ; among
which is the Donec in the fouth, the environs of which prefent felds,
groves and gardens. Among the products are many kinds. of valuable
428.
® Rennell; 958, “1 AGRE, iis 1716
fruits,
fruits, with pep
equal that of C
province, Utter
id and filver
unifh employm
known by the ge
dale fomewhat
at Ghargon, the
the great river :
of ftone.and eartl
fmble thofe of
aid repeatedly fo
The courfe of ¢
tothat of the G
be very near, yet
miles, and afterw.
The moft impo
Gagra, alfo called
Cofa and Teefta,
ceives many confid
andthe Betwa ; a
The Gagra, afte
pervades the provi
The Jumna rife
parallel courfe to
the eat; but its
miles when it flo
numerous and ext
butes greatly to —
the Chumbul, whi
tary ftreams.
The Soan is {ai
(which flows in’ an
joins the Ganges 1
ftreams of {maller <
the Ganges.
The Babe and
celebrated river is |
original Sanfcrit Se
The fource, like th;
of Iflenieff, 1797,
fource to the Amu «
of Little Bucharia,
from the eaftern fid
comparative courfe
adelta in the prov
dian fea.
_ Thetributary rive
ts courfe, where the
the weft run into the
omul ; from th
finas; the Rauvee o
inbutary ftream on t
on the eaft of the Si:
nown to the modern
HINDOSTAN. 429.
fruits; with pepper, cocoa nuts, fugar, and ginger. The filk is faid to
0 equal that © China; nor are the mufk deer unknown. ‘The northern
rovince, Uttercal, furpaffes the fouthern in tillage and population ;
anny idand filver are faid to be found in the fand of the rivers, and to
ary irnith employment to many of the natives, ‘The Hindoo tenets are not
art known by the generality, though there be fome Bramins, and the vulgar
ent diale&t fomewhat refembles that of' Bengal. The raja, or king, refides
at Ghargon, the capital, which by this account ftands on the fouth of
the the great river : it is fenced with bamboos, and has four gates conftructed
the of tone and earth. ‘The palace, public faloon, &c. feem rudely to re-
ms, fenble thofe of the Birmans. The natives are a ftout and brave race ;
the and repeatedly foiled the invafions of the Moguls. ,
dat The courfe of the Burrampoot is fuppofed to be nearly equal in length
has tothat of the Ganges. The fources of thefe great, rivers are ftated to
two hevery near, yet they feparate to the diftance of more thana thoufand
efi. niles, and afterwards join in their termination.
p of The moft important tributary ftreams which {well the Ganges are the
d by Gagra, alfo called Sarjoo, (a great part of whofe courfe, like thofe of the
le of Cofa and Teelta, belong to Fiber) 3 the Jumna or Yumena, which re-
rated ceivesmany confiderable rivers from the fouth, particularly the Chumbul
ie andthe Betwa ; and laftly the Soan.
‘ At The Gagra, after purfuing a long courfe from the mountains of Tibet,
hell pervades the province of Oude. .
anges The Jumna rifes from the mountains of Sirinagur, purfuing nearly a
on by parallel courfe to the Ganges on the welt, as the Gagra does on.
abad, the eaft; but its comparative courfe has not exceeded five hundred
outs, miles when it flows into the Ganges at Allahabad. By receiving
The numerous and extenfive ftreams from the fouth, the Jumna contri-
: Sun butes greatly to increafe the breadth of Gangetic Hindoftan ; and
waa the Chumbul, which joins the Jumna, is itfelf {welled with many tribu-
f On tary ftreams.
ands The Soan is faid to {pring from the fame lake with the Nerbuda
pain (wbich flows in an oppolite direétian to the gulph of Cambay),-and
st joins the Ganges not far below its union with the Gagra. Several
ftreams of {maller acceunt fall into the Heogley, or weftern branch of
mM the Ganges.
Sam. The bike and its confluent ftreams, form, the next obje&. This
: clebrated river is by the natives called Sendé, or Sindeh, and in the
original Sanfcrit Seendho. It is alfo called Nilab, or the Blue River.
The fource, like that of the Ganges, remains unknown, From the map
of Iflenieff, 1777, it appears that the chain of mountains which gives
fource tothe Amu or Gihon on one fide, and on the other to the rivers
of Little Bucharia, iggthat of the Belur Tag or Cloudy mountains ;
from the eaftern fide of which chain the Indus feems to arife. Its
comparative courfe may be about a thoufand Britifh miles, when it forms
adeltain the province of Sindé, entering by many mouths into the
Indian fea.
The tributary rivers of the Sindé chiefly join it in the northern half of
its courfe, where they form the Panjab, or country of five rivers. From
the weft run into the Indus the Kameh, with its tributary ftreams, and
the Comul ; from the eaft the Behut or Hydafpes ; the Chunab or Ace-
finas; the Rauvee or Hydraftes: andthe Setlege or Hefudrus, with a
tributary ftream on the weit, the Hyphafis: the Panjab country being
onthe eaft of the Sindé. The whole of this part of Hindoftan is little
known to the moderns ; and it is.uncertain whether the Caggar, a cenfi-
Frith 5 derable
dias HINDOSTAN.
derable and diftant river to the eaft, join the Sindé, or fall into the gulph
of Cutch *,
i iefly defcribed the moft important rivers in the two
Pe she r i Hindoftan, thofe of the central part mutt
next be confidered, being chiefly the Pudda, Nerbudda, and Taptee,
on the weft; and on the eat the Subanreeka,
joins the fea about thirty miles to the weft of that mouth of the
Gan es called the" Hoogley, or, more properly, from a city on it;
hhont the Ugli. The Subunreka being here contidered as the N.E,
boknder of Central Hindoftan, is fo lowed by the Bramnee, the
Mahanada 3 and after pafling the little ftreams of the Sircars by the
Godaveri ghe laft and moft important ftream of central Hindoftan,
The Godaveri rifes at Trimbuck Naffor, in the weftern Gauts, ore
roperly called the Suckhien mountains, from feveral fources, about
See Y niles to the N.E. of Bombay +. This great river was little
eda in Europe till recent times ; and is alfo called the Ganga, a Hindoo
term fora river in general, though applied by i to the
About ninety miles from its egrefs into the fda, the God.
corte leale large river, the Bain. Gonga, which pervades immenfe
Mer forets in a fingular wild country inhabited by favages in the cen.
oe of Hindottan, and as yet little known or explore ; The Bain
Gonga was firft difcovered to Europeans by the late Co choy Camac,
heath fe being about four hundred miles, while that of the Godaveri
yr » be feven hundred. This laft great river, like another Nile or
pio fertilives the country ; and from: the benefits which it confers,
bee! " ed facred. Befides the Bain, or Baun Gon a, it receives
ts ‘tributar ftreams, as the Burda, and others from t ie north 3 and
from, the fouth a circuitous large river, the Munzora, which pales by
es 1 in ivi f Hindoftan, is the
i in the central divifion o i ftan,
ied ag agen 8 a folitary ftream, as it receives fo few
a ib tions Its courfe is almoft due weft, and about equal to that of
the ‘Godaveti The T'aptee, which paffes by ay’ is ss ra
i ' iles in length... ‘T’o the fouth of thi river tl
fa est demian ad Suckhien Se eaaion or weltern Gauts, diffutes
ah Pg ser te Tollowel the om * ee
i and enriche e Kittna, an
. rt eisun Whe time facred river, rifes at Balifur, in
the pt Sukhien, not farto the fouth of Pee. en wi —
i } out fiv
near Mafulipatam, after a comparative courfe of al ge wager
iti i -rivals any Indian ftream, int y
Pt are sabaibdes wat the richeft diamond @ines in the world are
the tl bouring hills ¢o the north. ‘The chief tributary ftreams in
rx v0. are the Beema; paffing near the diamond mines of pee
that and the Muzi, or Mouffi, by thofe of Goleonda, ig he 9
vonfiderable river joins the Kiftna a tor wor | bd —
4 map, the Tunge-badra o (
of Stich have “bos seal difcloled many populous provinces and
He the South of the Kiftna appear the Pennar, the Paliar, and above
eM
i
nt Af. Ref.v. i. %
compered with that ef De la Rochete,
Rennell’s excellent map ma and cumptied with greet carn
‘hy j 1h CKEC! ’ P w 6 ay
A oy aca aaa Renuell, 244,
or Subunreka, which q
all
all the Caveri, anc
apatam, the capit
fain river, wl
hundred miles, "7
public monument:
are more common
courfe of the Cay
unimportant.
Lakes] Such
Alia The lakes
during the inundati
able piece of water
davery and Kiftna, j
thefe rivers, about
That of Chilka bou
a falt creek commu:
fimilar kind. One |
Ganges and the Inc
been originally a lar
confiderable expanfe
delightful country, ¢
three Britifh. miles in
Mouyrains,] '
may be faid to be «
chain of the Tibeti
they are called Him
may pethaps be the {
oily deferibes an Im;
of the Ruffians and
Argun, Ak Tau, &
of Hindoftan.
As the northern I
fouthern Imaus may |
which may be admitt
rangers to the rich (
It muft be obferved
in the moft recent d
or rather hills, and th
of Nipal and Boota
si ridge s nor ca
Du Halde. An eq
Cahmir, The ridge
vince, running eaft a
onental geographers,
The mountains to ¢
fem to be the Becius
are little known,
_ la Major Rennell’s
inferted in the mi
names the
The Chalifcuteli hil
¢ Alideck moun
HINDOSTAN. . 431
all the Caveri, another large and facred ftream, which paffes by Serin-
apatam, the capital of, Myfore, and forms a wider delta than any other
fouthern river, when it enters the fea, after a courfe of about three
hundred miles. The Caveri in general pervades a country in which
public monuments, unequivocal marks of civilization and opulence,
are more common than in the northern parts of Hindoftan*. As the
courfe of the Caveri is comparatively fhort, its tributary ftreams are
unimportant. 2
Lakes.] Such are the principal rivers in this extenfive portion of
Afia The lakes feem to be few. Rennell mentions that of Colair,
during the inundations about forty or fifty miles in extent, and a confider-
able piece of water in all feafons, lying about midway between the Go-
davery and Kiftna, in the nevg foil gradually formed by the inundations of
thefe rivers, about twelve Britifh miles to the north of Mafulipatam.
That of Chilka bounds the Britifh Sircars on the north, being a kind of
a falt creek communicating with the fea. The lake of Pulicat is of a
fimilar kind. One or two lakes may alfo be traced in the vicinity of the
Ganges and the Indus. The country of Cafhmir is fuppofed to have
been originally a large lake, as reported in the native traditions ; and a
confiderable expanfe of water ftill remains in the northern part of this
delightful country, called the lake of Ouller or Tal, being: about fifty.
three Britifh miles in circuit. ;
Mountarins.] The mountains chiefly celebrated by the Hindoos
may be faid to be only vifible from their country, being the fouthern
chain of the Tibetian Alps, covered with perpetual fnow. Hence
they are called Himmala, from a word denoting Snow. This name
may perhaps be the fource of the Imaus of the ancients. Ptolemy not
oily deferibes an Imaus as running north and fouth, or the Belur Ta
of the Ruffians and Tatars, with its ridges to the weft, now call
Argun, Ak Tau, &c. but another Imaus pafling E. and W., to the N.
of Hindoftan. é'
As the northern Imaus of Ptolemy is clearly the Belur Tag, fo his
fouthern Imaus may be fafely regarded as the Hianmals of the Flindoos,
which may be admitted to have been known to the ancients, who were no
ftrangers to the rich Gangetic regions of Hindoftan.
It muft be obferved, however, that there is no {mall confufion, even
in the moft recent delineations, of the Indian ranges of mountaine,
or rather hills, and their exaét denominations. The ridges to the fouth
of Nipal and Bootan are far inferior in height to the Himmala, or
fnowy ridge 3 nor can we much depend on the Tibetian names given by
Du Halde. An equal defeé& attends the mountains from Sirinagur to
Cathmir, ‘The ridge of Kuttore is propetly on the north of that pro-
vince, running eaft and weit; and is followed by the Hindoo Koh of
oriental geographers,
The mountains to the weft of the Indus, or on the Perfian frontier,
feem to be the Becius and Parvetius of Ptolemy ; but the modern names
are little known,
_ In Major Rennell’s excellent map of Hindoftan the ridges are rather
inferted in the minute and antiquated manner of D’Anville, than treated
with a bold and {cientific diferimination, The following lift contajne
molt of the names there to be found. \
The Chalifcuteli hills, between the weftern defert and the Setlege.
The Alideck mountains, above Gujurat.
@ Rennell, 275.
The
432 HINDOSTAN.
The mountains of Gomaun, or Kemaoon, called alfo thofe of Sewalic,
This extentive ridge feems to form the exterior barrier of the Tibetian
Alps in Sirinagur, &c.
The mountains of Himmaleh, N. of Taffifudon. The other Tibetian
mountains feem to be from Du Halde.
In Bengal are feveral ridges of hills without names, which is the cafe
even with the chain on the N. W. of the Sircars.
The Lucknow hills, at the fource of the Mahanada,
Thofe of Gondwanah, running parallel with the Nerbudda for a {pace,
and then turning fouth to Narnalla.
The ridges near the Chumbul are alfo without name.
The Grenier mountains in Guzarat.
The Shatpoorta hills, between the Nerbudda and the Taptee.
On the other fide of the Nerbudda there are alfo remarkable parallel
ridges, giving fource to many rivers, but namelefs,
Even the Gaute are laid down with little care ; and the important dia.
mond mountains of Golconda and Vifiapour are not mentioned,
A ridge called the Bundeh mountains runs parallel to the Godavery on
the fouth, but at a confiderable diftance from that river.
Hence it will be perceived that the Hindoo orology is fingularly
imperfe&t: but what is to be expected from a people who confound
terms fo far as to call a mountain a Gaut or a Pafs?) The Gauts, pe
culiarly fo called, are ranges which run along the weftern and eaftern
coalts of the Deccan. The former is by the natives called the mountains
of Suckhien *,
Thefe chains rife abruptly on each fide, but particularly the wef,
forming as it were enormous walls, fupporting a high terrace or table
land in the middle. This elevated tra¢t pafling through a great part
os the Maratta territories to the north of Myfore, is termed in general
the Balla Gaut, through its whole extent, while low paffes are called
Payen-Gaut +. Oppofite to Paniany, on the weftern coaft; there is a
break or interruption of the mountains, about fixteen miles in breadth,
chiefly occupied by a foreit; exclufive of this gap the mountains of
Sukhien extend from Cape Comorin to Surat, at the diftance of from
forty to feventy miles from the fhoret. ‘Their effect on the feafons has been
already mentioned ; and it ceafes at Surat, where the S. W. wind carries
uninterrupted moitture over Hindoftan, The high terrace in the middle
of the Deccan receives little rain; and the coaft of Coromandel, which
receives its rain from the N. E. monfoon, is alfo of a dry foil, as already
defcribed.
The fandy defert on the eaft of the Indus muft not be omitted, extend.
ing in length between four and five hundred Britith miles, and in breadth
from fixty to one hundred and fifty. Of this great defert the accounts are
imperfect ; but it is ttyled that of Agimere, and feems to have been known
to Herodotus. Such wide expanfes of barren fand form features peculiar
to Afia and Africa. i.
Forests.] Of this extenfive portion of Afiaa great part remaining
in primitive wildnefs, there are large foretts in various quarters, particu:
larly near the mouth of the Ganges, and in the wide unexplored regions
on the weit of the Sircars. T’hefe forefts furpafs in exuberance of
vegetation any idea which Europeans can imagine; creeping plants of
@ Af. Ref.v. 1. 5. + Rennell, cxxvii.
t Rennell, 976, and his map of the Deccan 1600, in which the fouthern mountains
are well exprefled,
prodigious
predigious fize
impenetrable gloa
of nature.
Botany.] The
the Ganges, appl
tan. A more fer
fufe luxuriance of
peninfula, cannot
The liberality wit}
the choiceft of tho
rience, and elegar
competition: dout
trees, and from mc
greater part of the
tion, while its timb
nimerous and exqui
articles of cloathin,
and civilization,
The moft diftingy
of lofty trees of tl
confiderable height,
titute of branches e
are natives of India.
fuled of any, is foun
mandel, : its fruit fy
ing of the nut is man
The areca palm is anc
Rate, but cultivated
kaves of the betel pey
chewing as tobacco
fabelliformis ) is dift
wed for writing cn a
ters; and of its juice
the country, is made
greater fan palm (cor
mountains of the Car,
ing ten or adozen m
cottage. The moft
thouzh not fo plentif
may be mentioned th
favourite repalt of t
tuft, of broad fimple
fruit.
Of the other fruit.}
for the mott part fo li
afew of the rincipal
two ae of the ge
remarkable for the Bre
dius dulcis, whofe fw
peculiarly agreeable in
ingularity and ufe ¢ £
fibrous bags, fometim
filled with nuts like thd
The dillenia indica is
Pomaceous fruit of a x
HINDOSTAN, 433
predigious fize and length, extended from tree to tree, forming an
impenetrable gloom, and a barrier, as it were facred to the tirft mytteries
of nature.
Botany.] The general obfervations which were made on India beyond
the Ganges, apply with ftill greater propriety to the botany of Hindof-
ta. A more fertile foil, and a climate better adapted to the moft pro-
fufe luxuriance of vegetation than the well-watered traéts in this vatt
peninfula, cannot poffibly be found in any part of the known world.
The liberality with which nature has fcattered over this favoured country
the choiceft of thofe plants that contribute to the fuftenance, the conve.
rence, and elegance of human life, is boundlefs and almoft without
conpetition : double harvelts, two crops of fruit from many of the
trees, and from moft of the reft a copious and regular fupply during the
greater part of the year, are the bafts that fupport its {warming popula.
tion, while its timber of every quality, its plants of medicinal virtue, its
gimerous and exquifite dyeing drugs, and its cottons and other vegetable
aticles of cloathing, offer to its inhabitants the materials of enjoyment
and civilization,
The moft diftinguifhing feature in tropical landfcapes is the multitude
of lofty trees of the palm-kind ; allthefe rife witha fimple trunk to a
confiderable height, terminated by a tuft of large leaves, and wholly def.
titute of branches except while they are in fruit; of thefe many {pecies
arenatives of India. ‘The cocoa nut-tree, perhaps the moft widely dif.
fufed of any, is found in abundance on the coafts of Malabar and Coro
mandel, : its fruit fupplies an agreeable nutriment, and the fibrous covers
ing of the nut is manufactured into the mott elaftic cables that are known.
Theareca palm is another of this family, of rare occurrence ina truly wild
fate, but cultivated over all India for its nuts, which, mixed with the
kaves of the betel pepper and a little quick-lime, are in general requeft for
chewing as tobacco is ufed in Europe. ‘The fmaller fan-palm (boraffus
fabelliformis) is diftinguithed for its broad fan-fhaped leaves, which are
ued for writing cn and for thatching.; its wood is in high efteem for raf
ters; and of its juice the bett palm toddy, the common dittilled {pirit of
the country, is made, ‘This, although a large tree, is far inferior to the
greater fan palm (corypha pig which abounds on the lower
mountains of the Carnatic ; each leaf of this vaft tree is capable of cover.
ing ten or adozen men, and two or three of them are fufficient to roof a
cottage. The moft beautiful of all, the fago palm, is alfo found here,
though not fo plentifully asin fome of the Indian iflands. Befides thefe
may be mentioned the elate fylveftris, whofe {weet mealy fruit is the
favourite repaft of the elephant 3 and the plantain, dittinguithed by its
me of broad fimple light green leaves, and its wholefome farinaceous
ruit,
Of the other fruit-bearing trees the number is fo great, and they are
for the moft part fo little known, even by name, to Europeans, that only
afew of the principal need be here mentioned; thefe are the papaw fig s
two {pecies of the genus known to botanitts by the name of eugenia, and
anarhabie for the Frestuel 8 and rofe flavour of their fruit ; and the {pon-
dius dulcis, whofe fweetnefs pleafantly tempered with acid, renders it
peculiarly agreeable in this hot climate. The pillaw is a tree of equal
lingularity and ufe + from its trunk and larger branches are produced
fibrous bags, fomctimes of the weight of twenty-five pounds, which are
filled with nuts like the cheftnut, and refembling the almond in flavaur.
The dillenia indica is remarkable for ite beauty, and valuable for its large
pomaceous fruit of a pure acid, rt equal to the white lily in angnaet
r) f ry 10
ee a
a
434 HINDOSTAN.
The averrhoa carambola produces three crops of fruit in the year, ang
another of the fame genus, the a. bilimbi, isin a manner covered with
large juicy berries of the fize of a hen’s egg, and refembling the grape.
The mango however is reckoned the molt exquifite of the Indian fruits
and is found in confiderable abundance, both wild and cultivated through
the whole peninfula, nor ought the elephant apple, (feronia elephantum,)
to be omitted, almoft equally a favourite with the animal whofe name it
bears, and with the native Hindoos.
Of the trees whofe produce is ufed in medicine or the arts, the mot
worthy of notice are the caflia fiftula ; the tamarind ; the gambugia, from
whofe bark exudes the gum of the fame name ; the lawrus caffia, whofe
bark is a common fubftitute for cinnamon ; cefalphina fappan, a red wood
ufed in dyeing ; fandal wood; flrychnos potatorum, the fruit of which,
called the charing nut, is in general ufe for clearing muddy water ; and
femigarpus anacardium, or marking nut ufed for giving a durable black
flain to cotton, The chief timber trees are the teak, ufed efpecially for
fhip-building ; a large tree called by botanifts gyrocarpus, whofe trong
light wood 1s in great requeft for rafts, or catamarans ; the ebony ; the
ferreola, the hardeft of all the Indian woods ; and the dalbergia, a dark
grey wood with light coloured veins, very heavy, and capable of a mof
exquifite polith ; it is much ufed for furniture.
A few other trogs require notice from their fize or beauty, fuch as the
banyan tree and Indian fig; the hibifcus ficulneus is remarkable by its
magnitude, and the profufion of its elegant bloffoms, and is of. peculiar
value ina tropical climate, as hardly any infeéts are found under its thade,
The cotton tree rifes witha thorny trunk eighteen feet in circumference
to the height of fifty feet without a branch, it then throws cut nume.
rous beughe which are adorned in the rainy feafon with purple bloffoms
as large as the open hand, and thefe are fucceeded by capfules filled with
a fine kind of cotton. The fhrubs and herbaceous plants are innumerable,
and multitudes would be well worth recording for their beauty or ufe, if
the nature of this work allowed an opportunity ; we cannot however omit
the indigo and the India madder, whence the beautiful colours of the
Indian chintzes are procured, The nyctanthes hirfuta, and the jafminum
pace boaft the moft fragrant bloffoms of the whole caft, the
ormer perfuming the. night, and the latter fcenting the day. The
gioriofa fuperba, cecropegia candelabrum, and Indian vine, form by their
union bowers worthy of Paradife ; and the butea fuperba, a fal tree,
by the ftriking contraft of its green leaves, its black flowerflalks, aud
its large f{carlet papilionaceous blofloms, attracts with its oftentatious
charms the notice and admiration of the moft incurious.
Zoo.ocy.} Foran ample account of the zoology of Hindoftan the
curious reader may confult Mr, Penant’s view of this country, this being
the peculiar province of that great naturalift. The numerous cavalry
which form the armies of the Hindoo princes imply great numbers of
horfes; and the breeds moft celebrated are thofe of Lahore and Turkif.
tan, but the grandees are fupplied from Perlia and Arabia. The infe-
rior breeds, though ugly, are active, and in fome regions there are poneys
not exceeding thirty inches in height *. The horfes of Tibet, generally
yed, are often ufed in Gangetic Hindoftan, The animal called the
wild mule, and the wild afs, fometimes pafs in herds to the northern
mountains, from the centre of Afia and the defert of Cobi.
The cattle of Hindoftan are numerous, and often of a large fize, with
@ Pennant, vol. ii, 299,
a hunch
ahunch on the fh
wool, except in {
Antelopes abo
the Nilgau, whicl
of travellers in Ii
means of the hun
The Arabian c
about Patna. T'
height of this int
abound in various
befound in the va
rally of the cur |
inallet fize is tk
doubly miferable —
the Bramins. T
foxes, jackalls, hy
weafels, and many
The liois feems -
ancient fculptors h
never faw; but M
brated fort of Gy
tiger of Bengal is
lion. and was kno
qlica tigris, or the
they are faid to
to be five feet, and
ifles at the mouth |
by the fudden app
which is faid to ext
with that of the ca
pointed in this firf?
ros with one horn,
getic ifles, Wild |
fowl are alfo foun
fowl, Hence it fe
been diffufed over t
have pafled from H
thd weltern countric
MINERALOGY. ]
molt diftinguifhed
world, that of dia
fur inferior quality.
brilliant of almine
fonally of a citron
oi torrents or in yel
itone.
The chief and m¢
and Golconda, bot!
divifion of Hindofte
while Vifiapour bel
* Thofe of Tippoo ard
portion than thofe of au
+ Colore, another iat
Condavir, Rennell, 29
HINDOSTAN. 435
,hunch on the fhoulders. The fheep are covered with hair inftead of
wool, except in the moft northern parts. ' r
Antelopes abound, of various beautiful kinds, particularly that called
the Nilgau, which is of a confiderable fize. Bernier, the moft intelligent
of travellers in India, gives an account of the chafe of the antelopes by
means of the hunting leopard, trained as in Perfia to this {port *.
The Arabian camel, or that with a fingle hunch, is not unfrequent
shout Patna. The elephant has been frequently defcribed; the ufual
height of this intelligent animal is about ten feet. Apes and monkeys
abound in various regions of Hindoftan ; and the orang outang is faid to
befound in the vaft forefts on the W. of the Sircars. The dogs are gene-
rlly of the cur kind, with tharp, ereét cars, and pointed nofes; the
alle fize is that kept by the Pariars, or degraded poor, rendered
doubly miferable by the fanatic prejudices of the abominable fyftem of
the Bramins. The other animals are are wild boars, bears, wolves,
foxes, jackalls, hyenas, leopards, panthers, lynxes: in the north, mufk
yeafels, and many other quadrupeds of inferior fize.
The lioi: feems to have been always unknown in Hindoftan, where the
ancient {culptors have attempted in vain to reprefent an animal which they
never faw ; but Mr. Pennant affures us that they are found near the cele-
brated fort of Gwalior, about Marwah, and near Cafhmir. The royal
tiger of Bengal is however a far more terrible animal thin the ftoutelt
lion, and was known in claffical times, as Seneca she poet calls it Gan-
giica tigris, or the Gangetic tiger. Such is their fize and ftrength that .
they are faid to carry off bullocks, the height of fome being faid
to be five feet, and the length in proportion. Partiessof pleafure on the
ifles at the mouth of the Ganges have often been fhockingly interrupted
by the fudden appearance of the tiger, prepared for his fatal f{pring,
which is faid to extend a hundred feet, not improbable when compared
with that of the cat. Such is the nature of the animal, that if difap-
pointed in this firfl leap, he couches his tail and retreats. The rhinoce-
ros with one horn, an animal of the fwamps, alfo abounds in the Gan-
getic ifles. Wild peacocks abound in Tibet and Ceylon ; our common
fowl are alfo found wild in the jungles, whence they are called jungle
fowl, Hence it feems reafonable to conclude that as thefe animals have
heen diffufed over the civilized world from time immemorial, they mutt
have pafled from Hindoftan to Perfia, whence they were diltributed to
th’ weltern countries,
MixneraALoGy.] The mineralogy of Hindoftan may be opened by its
molt diftinguifhed and peculiar product, celebrated in all ages of the.
world, that of diamonds, which are indeed alfo found in Brazil, but of
far inferior quality. ‘This fubitance is the moft hard, tranfparent, and
brilliant of aleminerals ; and is commonly colourlefs, but is found occa- ©
fonally of a citron yellow, grey, brown, or black. It is found in beds
of torrents or in yellow ferruginous earth, under rocks of quartz or fand
itone,
The chief and moft celebrated diamond mines are thofe near Vifiapour
and Golconda, both near {treams that flow into the Kiftna in the fouthern
divifion of Hindoftan, Golconda being in the territory of the Nizam,
while Vifiapour belongs to the Marattas +.
* Thofe of Tippoo are in the Tower of London; their legs are much higher in pros
potion than thofe of auy other feline animal,
+Colore, another diamond mine, is on the fouthern bank of the Kiflna, not far from
Condavir, Rennell, 290,
Ffa Raolcouda,
436 HINDOSTAN.
' famous diamond mine in the territory of Vifiapour, about
os pai anes N.W. from the junction of the Beema nd Kiftna,
feems to be the moft noted of thofe in that quarter *, ‘i diitri& on the
river Mahanada, to the S. of Sumboulpour, is eile As porated for this
rich product; as is Gandicotta, on the fouthern ank of the river GaANGETIC Hm
Pennar +. ‘ le of the dj
ine near the Mahanada is not the fole example of the diamond a) Bk
Pease a the north of the Deccan, for this mineral unexpeétedly porte ae
occurs, fo far north as Penna, in the territory of mune cund, about al) Sitinagub,
fixty B. miles to the fouth of the river Jumnah, which flows into the pal
Senge 2 value to the diamong are the sapphire ane Bee ruby which are
found in the Birman territories ; ut the ruby alfo occurs jy engal to the cou
ee which kent produces an inferior kind of fapphire, the topaz, a eae htendti
recious ftones. ‘ ; ‘ ee malt ‘
mene metals gold is found in the rivers which flow from Tihet ‘ riba i in k:
into the Ganges and Indus; but no gold mines beer peer to ake bea Itcomprifes the provi
known in Hindoftan, which has rather been celebrated for arr ing this with part of Delhi an
metal in commerce from other countries. On the other ; an atti a them equal in celebri
mountainous country, abounds in this precious metal, Si ver feems raze | power of the Monguls
in general throughout the oriental regions, and there is no indication of § dies,
this mineral thraugh all India. Thunberg mispeeel SFT ores and plum. BRITISH POSssESsTON
bago among the minerals hath ns but fays nothing ef copper which M citri&s to the welt, fc
seme allo. ii wn in Hindoftan. ee Ade
a Fourie The natives fometimes feek for the cure of dif. ais renee p Pr
eafes by bathing in the facred flreams ; and their taney to water in atend about ¢50 mi
general {cems to prevent their exploring any medicina ited (eer, Ma forefl kingdom 7
there are a few exceptions, and feveral warm fprings are reputed facred, nillions of black fubje
NATURAL CuRIOSITIES..] Amoug the fingular features of nature may sotauthentlontnd;
be mentioned the appearance of the provinces on the rivers, aang ” Revenue.) The p
feafon of inundation, when an accefs is opened by numerous c annels tq (210,000), fterling ; t
places before inland. ‘The grand afpeét of the northern ae ir key 2,540,000). fo t
vered with fnow, and the wide defert on the eaft of oe Indus, are all well fituated in refpeet
rand features ; as is the high table land of Myfore, fupported by natural tere in our poffeffion
Battreffes of mountains. The Sunderbunds, and a Citar i have Hindoftan has known {
been already mentioned. The detached ridges of rock, cand Goverxment.] Th
crowned with ftrong fortreffes, may alfo be named among § e sept iu frft velted in’a gh
curiofities. But one of the moft-noted in the ey tradition pe efa prefident and elecen
Gangoutra, or fall of the Ganges, fometimes called the Vang ta but, with Warren Ha
According to the report of a Bramin who pete > vifited the il affairs, civil and ba
fpot, the Ganges {prings from the peak of Caila is Sad ays journey Orith; ahd to contronl
to the fouth of Ladac, or-Latac, the capital of a iy f : eras od id Bombay on the W
pality §, This peak is about two miles to the fouth % Sp ubiden The court of jufficature
the river thence flows, for about feven or eight miles, w f K da N a with civil, criminal, nava
terranean pallage, until it again emerges in the country of Kedar Nau, \
. alled Gungowtry. . : ; tes 3
y aaely e is alf a fel fable of the Bramins, for tee trong Hhipasd pier tir
imaginations and weak judgments every thing any » San eous nee bacle to all the beft fe
It is a kind of fand bank, with fome ifles ftretching ui a gh ml as impofed by ¢ rafty fa
to the oppofite ifle of Ceylon; but the name of Rama has been exchange Alt. The militaty
by the Mahometans for that of Adam, ut varies according to ¢
INDO! :
* Rennell, 253, . tae AV ibn be |
EXTENT AND PIVIsr
Be ants gal merous idle followers
$'Ib. aaa, bash
Md @ quartes of the nom
CHAP, :
© Renaell, airy,
HINDOSTAN.
CHAPTER II.
GANGETIC HINDOSTAN, OR THE COUNTRIES ON THE GANGES.
tyient and Divifions.—Britifo Poffeffons. — Revenue. — Government —
Arny. — Navy. Cities and Towns. — Surrounding States; Bootan, Ni+
pals Sirinagur.
1 divi idol: P
feteNT AND DIVISIONS. ] ’ I ‘HIS grand divifin of Hindoflan ex
tends from the eaftern boundaries of
Bengal to the country of Sirhind, a length of about a thoufand B. miles,
The greatelt breadth, from the fources of the Chumbul to the mountains
sfSewalik, thay be about four hundred and fifty B. miles ; and the leait,
onthe weft of the province of Bengal, about two hundred and thirty.
Itcomprifes the provinces of Bengal, Bahar, Allahabad, Oude, Agra,
with part of Delhi and Agimere, and of Malwa in the fouth; molt of
them equal in celebrity to any in Hindoftan, and the chofen feats of the
power of the Monguls, as well as of mighty kingdoms even in claffical
times. af
BaitisH POssESSIONS.] Bengal, Bahar, with Benares, and fome other
ditriéts to the weft, forming the chief batis and centre of Enzlith power
inthis country, it is proper firft to confider them apart, and then proceed
tofome account of the other provinces. The Britifh fettlements here
extend about 5° miles length by 300 in breadth, in themfelves a
powerful kingdom. ‘The native population is computed at ten or eleven
nillions of black fubjeéts, exclufive of the Englifh, whofe number feems
not authenticated.
Revenve.] The revenue of thefe Britifh provinces is computed at
4,210,000). fterling ; the expence of collection, military and civil charges,
c,, 2,540,000! fo that the clear revenue is 1,670,000l.*. They are
well fituated in refpeet to fecurity from foreign invafion ; and fince they
tere in our poffeffion have enjoyed more tranquillity than any part of
Hindoftan has known fince the reign of Aurungzeb.
GovernMENT.] The government of Bengal and its wide dependencies
wa firft vefted in a governor general and a fupreme council, confifting
fa prefident and eleven counfellors ; but in 1773 thefe were reftricted to
hur, with Warren Haftings the governor general, who were to direét
il affairs, civil and military, in the kingdoms of Bengal, Bahar, and
Oriffa; and to controul the inferior governments of Madras on the E.
md Bombay on the W., with Bencoolen in the ifland of Sumatra +.
The court of jnfficature contifts of a chief jultice and three other judges,
with civil, criminal, naval, and ecclefiaftical jurifdi@ion. The Hindoos:
ite governed by their own laws ; but it is to be wifhed that in thefe and
other Britifh poffeffions the abominable influence of the Bramins
re extinguifhed, and the cafts totally abolifhed, as the moft fhocking
ibflacle to all the belt feelings and exertions of human nature that ever
nis impofed by crafty fuperitition upon confummate ignorance.
Aituy.] The militaty eftablifhment in Bengal is always refpectable,
ht varies according to the fituation of-affairs, The Britifh troops are.
upported by the Sepoys, a native militia, who are accuftomed to have
merous idle followers, {fo that the effective men feldom conftitute more
hu a quartes of the nominal army. A force of twerlty thoufand Britifh
© Rensell, caiv, + Peonant, ii, 997,
Ff foldiers
HINDOSTAN.
438
foldiers might probably encounter and vanquish two hundred thoufand
blacks or Hindoos. The decilive battle of Plafley, which fecured to Us
the poffeflion of thefe opulent provinces, was gained by the formidable
array of nine hundred Europeans *,
Citits AND Towns.] The chief city of Bengal, and of all the Britiq,
poffeffions in Hindoftan, is Calcutta. The latitude is 22° 33' north, and
the longitude 88° 23! eaft from Greenwich.
“ Generally {peaking the defcription of one Indian city is a defcription
of all; they being all built on one plan, with exceedingly Narrow, cons
fined, and crooked ftreets ; with an incredibie number of refervoirs ang
ponds, and a great many gardens interfperfed. A few of the ttreets are
paved with brick. The houfes are varioufly built, fome of brick, others
with mud, and a ftill greater proportion with bamboos and mats; and
thefe different kinds of fabrics, ftanding intermixed with each other, form
a motley appearance: thofe of the latter kind are invariably of one ftory,
and covered with thatch. ‘Thofe of brick feldom exceed two floors, and
have flat, terraced roofs. The two former claffes far outnumber the lalt,
which are often fo thinly fcattered, that fires, which often happen, do
not fometimes meet with the obitruétion of a brick houfe through a whole
itreet.
‘* Calcutta is, in part, an exception to this rule of building ; for there
the quarter inhabited by the Englifh is compofed entirely of brick build.
ings, many of which have more the appearance of palaces than of private
houfegg but the remainder of the city, and by much the greateft part, is
built as above defcribed. Calcutta 1s the emporium of Bengal, and the
feat of the governor general of India, It is a very extenfive and popu. |
lous city, being fuppofed at prefent to contain at leaft 500,000 inhabi.
tants. Calcutta is fituated on the weitern arm of the Ganges, at about
one hundred miles from the fea; and the river is navigable up to the §
town for the largeit fhips that vifit India. It is a modern city, having
rifen on the {cite of the village of Govindpour, about nincty years ayo,
The citadel is fuperior in every point, as to itrength and correétnefs of
detign, to any fortrefs in India; but on too extenfive a {cale to anfwer
the ufeful purpofe intended, that of holding a poit in cafe of extre.
mity t.”’ ,
In this grand capital of Britifh Afia the mixture of people and manner
prefents a picturefque and interefting {cene. The black Hindoo, the
vlive-coloured Moor, or Mahometan, contrafted with the fair and florid
countenances of the Euglifh ; and the charms of the European damfel
receive a foil from the A Hindoo beauties. To the luxuries of the
Afiatic are added. the elegance and fcience of the Englith life. Even
the newfpapers are drawn up with care and printed with esa and
the Alfiatic fociety, inftituted by the late admirable tif William Jones
forms a noble monument of fcience in a dittant country.
The commerce of Calcutta is very great in falt, fugar, opium, filks, and
mtfflins, &c. The poppy which yields the opium is particularly, cultivated
in the province of Bahar. On the Ganges are tranfported to Afam car
goes of falt, in exchange for goid, filver, ivory, musk, and a particular kind
of filky cotton. ‘The cowry fhells, ufed as a {mall coin, are imported fro:
the Maldives in exchange for rice, The fine muflins are chiefiy fabricate
in the rainy feafon from May to September, and, with calicves, form
great part of the exports to Europe.
lif the eaitern part of the Britith poffeffions the moft confiderable tows
is Dacca, Srraat the principal ftream of the Ganges, but defended o
@ Reunell, xcv, + Rennell, 58, 59, |
Ui
here fudd
the eaft by the
nufactures of the
pean market, an,
It was once the ,
dabad, a modern
about 26 miles »
Ganges, which the
Patna is the cap:
N.W. from Caleu
able trade ; moft o
made in the proving
enares appro
the diftrig ving |
1755. It is a rich,
of the Ganges, ab
called Kati, was th
north,
On leaving the B
firt occurs Allahab;
Jumna and the Gan
oe wh of little
are the diamon i
Bundeleund. ip
Lucknow is the pr
acity on the Gogra,
have given name to ¢
Me 18 Borilli, a fm
¢ great and
the a enypive ats
but it foon became a
declined,
To the N. W. of Ag
the celebrated city of
of confiderable antiqui
veller, Bernier, compu
exclufive of the fortific
This metropolis may |
noble and {plendid re
grand mofque is a m;
with high minarets, a
the city has bee.a very
Nadir Shah, in whic
perithed.
The city of A gimerd
the greater part of that
be confidered as the fact
"ewe Oujein is about
wall, with round towers
with line, tarafs, or til
with tone: there are f
new palace built by Sin
enly turns nor
HINDOSTAN. 439
the eaft by the Megna or Burrampoot. Dacca is celebrated for mas
nufactures of the moit delicate muflins, fo much in requeft in the Eros
pean market, and which are made from the cotton of the diftriét.
It was once the capital of Bengal, and was fucceeded by Moorthe-
dabad, a modern city. Hoogley, or Ugli, is a {malt but ancient citys
about 26 miles above Calcutta, on the grand weltern branch of the
Ganges, which thence receives its name. ,
Patna is the capital of the province of Bahar, fituated about 400 miles
N.W. from Calcutta, being tolerably fortified, and a place of .confider-
able trade ; moft of the faltpetre in particular, exported to England, is
made in the province of Bahar. /
Benares approaches to the weftern frontier of the Britith poffeffions,
the diftri&t having been ceded to the Eaft India Company in the year
1955. It is a rich, popnlous, and compaé city, on the northern bank
of the Ganges, about 460 miles from Calcutta. Benares, anciently
called Kali, was the molt early feat of Braminical knowledge in the
north,
On leaving the Britith poffeffions, and proceeding towards the' weft,
frit occurs Allahabad, in the province fo called, at the confluence of the
Jumna and the Ganges, a city belonging to the the navab or nabob of
Oude, but of little confequence. Not far to the S.W. of Allahabad
are the diamond mines of Penna, in the fmall detached province o
Bundelcund. 5
Lucknow is the prefent capital of Oude, having fuperfeded Fyzabad,
acity on the Gogra, near the ancient city of ‘Aiudh, which feems to
have given name to the province. At a confiderable diftance to the
N.W. is Borilli, a fmall but noted town near the northern frontier.
The great and good emperor Achar conttituted Agra the capital of
the Mogul empire about A.D. 1566. It wasthena {mall fortified town,
but it fod became an extenfive and magnificent city, and has as rapidly
declined.
To the N.W. of Agra, near the confines of Sindetic Hindoftan, ftands
the celebrated city of Delhi, the Mahometan capital of India, faid to be
of confiderable antiquity by the name of Indarput. That intelligent tra-
veller, Bernier, computes the-extent of Delhi, in 1663, at iRise Whtoie',
exclufive of the fortifications ; and he reprefents Agra as of wider circuit.
This metropolis may be faid to be now in ruins; but there are many
noble and fplendid remains of palaces with baths of marble *. Tur
grand mofque is a magnificent edifice of marble and red freeltone,
with high minarets, and comes richly gilt. One of the quarters of
the city has beea very thinly inhabited lince the dreadful maffacre by
Nadir Shah, in which one hundred thoufand people are faid to have
perifhed.
The city of Agimere, or Ajimer may be more properly aflotted, with
the greater part of that province, to Sindetic Hindoftan : but Oujein may
be confidered as the faetheft city inthe fouth of that portion now under
new. Qujein is about fix miles in circumference, furrounded by a ftrong
wall, with round towers. The houfes partly brick, partly wood, covered
with lime, tarafs, or tiles: the bazar, or market, is {pacious, and paved
with ftone: there are four mofques, and feveral Hindoo temples, with a
new palace built by Sindia. On the fouth runs the river Sippara, which
here fuddenly turns north, purfving its courfe into the Chumbul, the lait
* Af, Ref. iv, 417.
| On a a large
440 _ HINDOSTAN-
a large river, not lefs than three quarters of a mile in breadth, at. fome
diftance from its egrefs into the Jumna *.
Turning to the eaft, the river Nerbudda may for a part be confidered
as the molt fouthern limit of Gangetic Hindoftan ; yet concerning Gur.
rah, a city or town of fome note, there are no details; and the other
names are too unimportant for general geography. But the noted fort
of Gwalior muft not be omitted, being a ftriking cbjeét in Hindoo topo.
raphy. The infulated rock on which it ftands is about four miles in
an, but narrow : the fides are almoft perpendicular, from two to three
hundred feet above the furrounding plain}. On the top there is a town
with wells and refervoirs, and fome cultivated land. This celebrated
fortrefs, which is about 80 miles to the fouth of Agra, was taken b
furprife by a few Englifh under Major Popham in 1779. Such ifolated
forts on rocks were not uncommon in ancient India; and that of Aor.
nos i8 diftinguifhed in the hiftory of Alexander.
SURROUNDING STATES. ] Before Spl this brief delineation of Gan.
getic Hindottan, the moft large, celebrated, and beft known quarter of
that extenfive region, it may be proper to offer fome remarks on the fur.
rounding {tates onthe E. and N. The Rofhawn of Rennell is the fame
with Aracan, being merely a Hindoo term for that country. His Coflay
is only another name for Meckley, or the country of the Muggaloos, a
people between Afam on the north and Aracan on the fouth, whofe chief
town is Munnipura t. Thefe eaftern tribes of rude mountaineers are little
known, but approach to the favage itate. Afam has been already briefly
» defcribed in the account of the river of Burrampoot; but to the wei
open the wide and obfcure regions of Tibet.
Of Sirinagur, laid down in the maps as the moft northern frontier
country, an interefting account has recently appeared §. ‘To the north
is fcen the lofty chain of {nowy mountains, pafling in an extenfive line
fron caft to welt, at the diftance of about 80 miles to the N. of the town
of Sirinagur.
One of the moft confpicuous fummits is that of Hem, rifing in four or
five conical peaks; and near its bafe is a place of Hindoo worfhip, called
Buddrinaut. Several rivulets defcend into the Aliknundra, here acknow.
ledged by the Hindoos as the genuine and divine Ganges. The raja and
natives are of the Hindoo faith; but the country, a mafs of mountains,
extremely poor. The channel of the river is here not lefs than 250 yards
in breadth. The fands are wafhed for gold ; and about forty miles to
the north of the town are two copper mines, with one of lead about fifty
miles co the ealt.
CHAPTER III.
SINDETIC HINDOSTAN 3} OR THE COUNTRIES ON THE RIVER SINDHI
OR INDUS.
Extent.—Weftern Boundary of Hindoftan.— Chief Cities and Towns.
rer HIS part extends from the northern mountains of Cabh-
Extent. ] mir, and the Hindoo Koh, in the north of Cabul, to
the mouth of the Indus, a length of about 900 B. miles, and about’ 350
in medial breadth. Befides part of the provinces of Delhi and Agimer, it
* AL, Ref, vi, 40% t+ Hodges, 139. $ Af. Ref, v, 223. and 250, § Ib. vi. 309
contains
contains the exte
the frontier regic
Indus. Thefe 1
power’, and, the
doftan by fea, th
The chief cit
Cafhmir, Cabul,
Sendean Delta.
new religious feé
as far as Cafhmir
isat Candahar, c
Perfia, and to hi
This brief accc
and end with the
regarded as the n
cept for a ftrong
CHIEF CITIES ,
dern maps on the
Indus, but Major
the gulph of Cutg
Lahore, now th
Mahometan conqu
and, including the
From Lahore to £
fhady trees*, F
Hindoos, faid by
as the Sarjou from
Almott due nor
B. miles, ftands C
This city is fxid to
the town of the fa
Hindotan. To a
better to follow th
the capital of Ca
which in the ancie
naghur, but now b
miles on each fide ¢
bridges, and occur
about two miles.
are flightly built o
On a ftanding roof o
the building from t
fon, This fence ca
coolnefs in the fum
planted with a varie
of a beautifully ¢
choaked with the fi
No buildings are fed
mirians boait much
by one of the emper
moderate t.” The
an oval form, about
Zagathai princes (a
* Rennell, 82 i but ot]
a .
350
HINDOSTAN. 4at
gontains the extenfive province of Moultan, with Lahore, Cafhmir, Cabul,
the frontier region of Candahar, and that of Sindi at the mouth of the
Indus. Thefe provinces are the moft remote from the feat of Britith
power, and, the greater’ part of modern travellers having vifited Hin-
doftan by fea, they are lefs accurately known than any other quarter.
The chief cities which occur in this extenfive region are Lahore,
Cafhmir, Cabul, Ghifni or Gafna,,Candahar, Moultan, and Tatta, in the
Gendean Delta. On the eaft of the Indus, or in Panjab, the Seiks, a
new religious feét, form the leading power ;_ while on the weft, and even
4s far as Cafhmir, the dominions of a Petlian Shah, whofe feat of empire
igat Candahar, comprize all the provinces, with feveral in the eaft of
Perfia, and to him even Sindi is tributary.
This brief account of Sindetic Hindoitan fhall begin with the N.E.,
and end with the S.W., after mentioning that Agimer, which may be
regarded as the moft eaftern city of this divifion, is little remarkable, ex-
cept for a ftrong forteefs on a hill.
CulgF CITIES AND Towns.] The town of Sirhind is placed by mo-
dern maps on the river Caggar, which D’Anville bends weft into the
Indus, but Major Rennell fuppofes it to follow a detached courfe into
the gulph of Cutch ; perhaps it may be loft in the great fandy defert.
Lahore, now the capital of the Seiks, was the refidence of the firft
Mahometan conquerors before they advanced to the more central parts ;
and, including the fuburbs, was fuppofed.to be three leagues in length.
From Lahore to Agra, near soo Englifh miles, there was an avenue of
fhady trees*. ‘Fhe river Rauvee paffes by Lahore, being the Reva of the
Hindoos, faid by them to derive its fource from the mountain Vindhia,
as the Sarjou from the Himar or Himala +.
Almo!t due north from Lahore, at the {uppofed diftance of about 200
B. miles, ftands Cafhmir, the capital of the delightful province fo called.
This city is {id to be alfo called Sirinagur, having been confounded with
the town of the fame name, already mentioned in the account of Gangetic
Hindoflan. ‘To avoid the confufion arifing from identity of names, it is
better to follow the authorities of Bernier and Forfter, who denominate
the capital of Cafhmir by the fame term as the country. ‘The city,
which in the ancient annals of India was known by the name of Siring-
naghur, but now by that of the province at large, extends about three
miles on each fide of the river Jalum, over which are four or five wooden
bridges, and occupies in fome part of its breadth, which is irregular,
about two miles. ‘The houfes, many of them two and three ftories high,
ate flightly built of brick and mortar, with a large intermixture of timber.
On aitanding roof of wood is laid a covering of fine earth, which fhelters
the building from the great quantity of fnow that falls in the winter fea-
fon, This fence communicates an equal warmth in winter as a refrefhing
coolnefs in the fummer feafon, when the tops of the haufes, which are
planted with a variety of flowers, exhibit at a diftance the {pacious view
of a beautifully chequered parterre. The ftreets are narrow, and
choaked with the filth of the inhabitants, who are proverbially unclean,
No buildings are feen in this city worthy of remark ; though the Kaf-
mirians boait much of a wooden mofque called the Jumah Muffid, ereéted
by one of the emperors of Hindoftan ; but its claim to diftinction is very
moderate ¢.”” The country of Cafhmir is a delicious vale, extending in
an oval form, about go miles from S.E. to N.W. It was fubjeé to the
Zigathai princes (a ‘Tataric race, who {peak the fame language with
* Renuell, 82; but others only extend it to Delhi, + Wefdin, 232, $ Forfter, vol. ii.
ae 7) the
A AR AS eB NCI LP EL RES OY SLUT TERE LEELA LS OEE LAE 8 GOR ABST NTN LISD Hii tia i> ita nail
a AN Tcl: teen
442 HINDOSTAN.
the Turks), till A.D. 1 786 when it became fubject to the Monauls
and afterwards to the Afgans. Rice is the common produc of the
plains ; while the furrrounding hills yield wheat, barley, and other crops
The celebrated fhawls are only manufactured here; the material baie
from Tibet,: efpecially thofe diftri&ts which lie at a month’s journey ‘3
the north-eaft. The price at the loom is from 26s. to 51, and the re.
venue is tranfmitted to the Afgan capital in this fabric. The Cathmj.
rians are {tout and well formed, but their features often coarfe and broad
even thofe of the women, who in this northern part of India are of H
deeper brown complexion than thofe of ‘fouthern France or Spain,
The drefs is inelegant, but the people gay and lively, and fond of Parties
of pleafure on their delicious lake. ‘The Afgan government has how.
ever fomewhat,crufhed their fpirit. The language is derived from the
Sanfcrit, but the Perfian is chiefly ufed in elegant compofition. During
the fummer heats the great Moguls ufed to retire to Cafhmir, where they
enjoy a cool and refrefhing climate.
The wide fpace from Cafhmir to Cabul is more remarkable for ny.
merous ftreams and mountains than any. other circumftance ; and the
conquerors of India preferred the fouth. Even in Cabul the moun.
tains are faid to be covered with perpetual {now ; but the country is .
diverfitied with gentle hills, fertile vales, and ftately foretts. It. is alfo
interfe&ted by many ftreams, and, befides delicate fruits and flowers, is
abundant in other productions. Ghizni was the ancient capital of the
country, of which Candahar was then reckoned a part *. The city of
Cabul is the capital of the dominions of the Perfian Shah, ufually ftyled
king of Candahar, whofe dominions extend weitward beyond the fea of
Durrah, including a great part of Corafan, with the large Perfian pro.
vince of Segiftan, being about 809 B. miles in length, by about half
that breadth. Cabul is efteemed a confiderable city, in a romantic and
healthy fituation.
Ghizni or Gafna is remarkable as the feat of the firft Mahometan cone
querors of Hindoftan, whofe empire almoft correfponds with the modern
kingdom of Candahar..
he city which gives name to the laft is of {mall account, except asa
noted pafs from Perfia into Hindoftan.
Having thus reached the moft weltern frontier, and nothing far.
ther worthy of commemoration arifing on that fide of the Sindeh, it
will be proper to purfue the courfe of that grand ftream towards
the fouth. The {mall city and fortrefs of Attock were only built by
Acbar, 1581; but the vicinity was memorable in ancient times as the
general paflage from India to the weft. ‘The Indus, about twenty miles
above Attock, is a rough, rapid ftream, about a mile in breadth where
not interrupted by ifles. ‘This fize indicates a remote fource, and many
tributary ftreams.
Moultan, the capital of the province fo called, is about 170 B. miles
to the fouth of Attock, on the large river Chunab, not far from its junc-
tion with the Indus, along which there is an uninterrupted navigation for
veflels of 200 tons, not only to this city, but as far as Lahore +. ° Moul-
tan is a {mall city, and of little confequence, except for its antiquity and
cotton manufacture.
The lait remarkable city on the Indus is Tatta, the capital of the
Rennell, 152.
+ lb. 178; yet, page 99, he mentions the river of Mowhan as being choked up
about 1665¢
province
province of Si
which is well
of the Ganget
and lakes. In
the S. W. me
~ phere is here
At Tatta the h
on the E. and
The manufa&tu
have greatly de
Candahar.
CENTR.
Boundaries, -
Bounnarixs. }
fandy defert an
with its tributar
bay of Bengal.
miras, is little lefs
400. In it are
Golconda, Bera:
tris of inferior
vinces of the Sir
. CHIEF CITIEs.
lait defcribed, t}
large jpeanipaton
purpofes. The
tified, taken by
ftored to the M
than fifty miles,
handfome city, fo
cloths; but the }
little frequented,
vereigns of Guze
power of the Mor
Surat was for:
metans of India
other circumftanc:
ancient times, JT
Hindoftan ; and it
by the Englith *.
Bombay, at a.
Englith fettlement
taining a very ftror
marine arfenal +,
fe For a recent acco
fail to be 500,000, a
Monguls, Turks, profe:
t Rennell, 31,3 the
HINDOSTAN. 443
province of Sindi, and fituated within the Delta, the upper part of
which is well cultivated, while the lower, inftead of the lofty foretts
of the Gangetic Sunderbunds,' prefents only low brufhwood, {wamps,
and lakes. In the months of July, Augutt, and September, when
the S. W. monfoon brings rain in moft parts of India, the atmof.
here is here often clouded, but no rain falls except near the fea.
‘At ‘Tatta the heats are fo violent, and the winds from the fandy deferte
on the E. and N. W. fo pernicious, that many precautions. are ufed.
The manufactures of this city in filk, wool from Kerman, and cotton,
have greatly declined. ‘The Mahometan prince of Sindi is tributary te
Candahar.
a
. CHAPTER IV.
CENTRAL HINDOSTAN, OR THE MIDDLE PROVINCES.
Boundaries. — Chief Cities. —Sircars.— Ancient Trade.— Pirates.
HIS. divifion is chiefly bounded by Gangetic
Bouxparies. } T Hindoftan on the dovehi and on the spol by the
fandy defert and the ocean. The fouthern limit is the river Kiftna,
with its tributary ftream the Beema, while the. eaft is wafhed by the
bay of Bengal. The length E. to W. from Jigat point to Cape Pal-
miras, is little lefs than 1200 B. miles; while the medial breadth is about
400. In it are comprehended the province of Oriffa, with part of
Golconda, Berar, Dowlahabad, Candeifh, and Guzerat, and other dif-
trits of inferior name; and on the eaftern fhore are the Britifh pro-
vinces of the Sircars,
_ Curer ciTtes.} Ina natugal tranfition from the divifion of India
lait defcribed, the province of Guzerat firit préfents itfelf, like a
large promontory, but the fhores feem little adapted to commercial
purpofes. The chief city, Amedabad, is confiderable, and well for-
tified, taken by the Englifh under General Goddard in 1780, re-
flored to the Marattas in 1783. Cambay, at the diftance of more.
than fifty miles, may be called the fea port of this capital; itfelf a
handfome city, formerly of great trade in fpice, ivory, filk, and cotton
cloths ; but the harbour was impeded with fand and mud, and is now
little frequented, the trade being chiefly transferred to Surat. The fo-
vereigns of Guzerat were formerly powerful, and long withftood the
power of the Monguls,
Surat was formerly more celebrated as the port whence the Maho-
metans of India embarked on their pilgrimage to Mecca, than for any
other circumftance, though reported to have been an important city in
ancient times. The Portuguefe feized Surat foon after their arrival in
Hindoftan ; and it was among the firft places in this country frequented
by the Englith *.
Bombay, at a-confiderable diftance to the fouth, is a well known
Englith fettlement, on a {mall ifland about feven miles in length, con-
taining a very ftrong, capacious fortrefs, a large city, a dock yard, and
amarine arfenal+. It was ceded to the Englifh in 1662 by the Por-
* For a recent account of Surat fee Stavorinus, vol. ii. p. 479. The inhabitants are,
fail to be 509,000, a confiderable part of whom are Moors, that is Arabs, Perfians,
Monguls, Turks, profetfing Mahometanifm, but retaining (ome Pagan rites.
t Rennell, 31,; the name is Portuguefe, Buon bahia, a good bay,
I tuguefe,
444 HINDOSTAN,
vuefe, as part of the dower of the queen of Charles IT. Tn the fame
fond; or fall bay, are the ifles of Salfatte and Elephanta, in whicl are
terraneous temples.
er tastes the hate and proceeding towards the eaft of central Hin.
doiftan, firft occurs the city of Burhampour, of {mall note. Ellichpour
is of confiderable importance, being the chief city of Berar. Nagpout
is the capital of the eaftern divifion of the Maratta empire, as Poona ts
of the weltern, being a modern city of {mall fize. At Nagpour, which
may be called the central city of Hindoftan, the rainy feafon commences
with the S. W. monfoon.
Not far to the eaft of this city begins that extenfive and unex.
plored wildergefs, which is pervaded by the great river Bain or Baun
Gonga, and terminates in the mountains bounding the Englith Sircars ¥,
The acquifition of thefe provinces has been already mentioned in the firft
chapter. They prefent little memorable. Nor does there appear to be
any capital city, or chief town, in the Delta of the Godavery, or through.
out the Sircars, the wide tract of foreft on the N. W. having prohibited
inland trade or intercourfe. Mafulipatam is indeed a place of fome ac.
count : but ftanding on the northern branch of the Kiitna, may be
arranged in the fouthern divifion of Hindoftan.
On turning towards the welt, few places of note arife, except Atirun.
gabad, a modern city, deriving its name from Aurungzeb, in whofe
time it was the capital of the Deccan, or parts to the fouth of Hindoftan
Proper. It was afterwards the metropolis of the Nizam 8 territory, till
the preference was given to Hydrabad. Near this city is Dowlatabad,
which gives name to the province, with a fingular fortrefs on a peaked
The central part of Hindoftan nearly correfponds with the Deccan,
or fouthern countries of the Monguls, who did not pafs the Kittna
till a recent period ; and, inftead of wing the term in its juit ac.
ceptation, applied ‘it to the fouthern provinces of their empire,
Though formerly the feat of great power, and the weftern coats
reatly frequented by foreign merchants of all nations, the har.
urs have fince been impeded, and the commerce has declined,
being now chiefly transferred to the Ganges, which prefent fuch
fuperior advantages as amply compenfate for the greater diftance of
the voyage. <The Roman and Agabian fame of the weftern thores
has vanithed: and filence prevails in the ftreets of Barygaza or Ba.
roach, the port of the great. inland city Tagara, whence the products
of India, gems, ivory, myrrh, pepper, ginger, and cotton cloths, plain
or ornamented with flowers, were, ia the time of Arrian, exported to the
es = 5 Hv co the fouthern part of this coaft was remarkable yo
another account, being the chofen refidence of er pirates. Ms
thefe freebooters were known even to Pliny and Ptolemy, a
mulated in all ages by the richnefs of the commerce. They refemb .
on a fmall fcale the piratical ftates of Barbary, and a fucceffion .
Angrias was continued till 1756, when we feized Gheriah, the principa
fortrefs.
: buve quoted, for minute details concerning thie for-
merty ¥ oie — wMtat, Reg. ii. 18-200. This important journey wae 2
ve been undertaken folely with geographical views; and it is faid that the — . .
rae ny entertain the highly laudable intention of publihhing an ertinly new map
ndotian
+ See the priot, Beruouilli, i, 460,
CH.AP-
T
Boundarie.
BouNnDARIES. ]
term, is bounded
moft northern ful
will extend from
Cape Comorin, a
dial breadth. It
fiapour, and the
the central kingdo
or the Carnatic,
Samorins of Calic
of which Conam
authors mention ag
diviiion of Hindof{
coafts of which a
planted the Dutch
parts.
BRITISH POSsEss
the Britith power
vinces in the foutl
pital is alfo in our
Hindoftan only yiel
Seringapatam is not
adapted for a com
pected that Calicut,
place on that coaft,
acquifitions,
Cuier CITIES. ]
as the moft importan
in an ifle, furrounde
five feet deep, and
ile is about four mi
weltern fide being ;
out-works, magnifice
his father were Mahc
gardens 5 and amon
edge, confifting of e
plnted to the breadt
of the fortifications (
and artillery, are con
wieing proof that no .
:perfeverance,
In this central ter
Salem and Attore int
fouth; and on the v
nearly deferted, ‘T'ellic
irwar is within for
While on the fouth wi
HINDOSTAN.
CHAPTER V.
THE SOUTHERN DIVISION OF HINDOSTAN.
Boundariess— Britifh Pofefions.—Chief Cities and Towns.
BouNDARIES. ] Hing part, which may alfo be called the Deccan
or South, in the moft proper acceptation of the
term, is bounded, as already explained, by the river Kiftna, and its
moft northern fubfidiary ftreams flowing into the Beema. Hence it
will extend from the latitude of Bombay to the fouthern point of
Cape Comorin, about $30 Britith miles in length, and about 350 of me-
dial breadth. It contains nearly the whole of the province of Vi-
fapour, and the moft important part of that of Golconda, with
the central kingdom of Myfore, the long eaftern province of Carnada,
or the Carnatic, the principalities of ‘l'anjore, Travancore, and the
Samorins of Calicut, the pepper coaft of Canara, and other diftri&ts,
of which Conam is fuppofed to be the Kamkam which the Arabian
authors mention as adjoined to the territory of the Balhara. In this
diviion of Hindoftan may alfo be included the ifland of Ceylon, the
coats of which are now poflefled by the Englifh, who have fup-
planted the Dutch; while the native princes retain the extenfive inland
arts.
BritisH PossEssions.}] In addition to the diftri& around Madras,
the Britifh power was in 1792 and 1799, extended over wide pro-
vinces in the fouth and welt of Myfore, and Seringapatam the ca-
pital is alfo in our poffeffion, fo that our territories in this portion of
Hindoftan Only yield in extent and confequence to thofe on the Ganges.
Seringapatam is not only detached, but is by its inland fituation little
adapted for a commercial capital; it may, therefore, be perhaps ex-
pected that Calicut, an ancient and celebrated emporium, or fome other
place on that coaft, will be felected as a metropolitan town of the new
acquifitions, f
Cur crT1Es.] In recent times Seringapatam may be regarded
as the moft important city in this portion o Hindoftan. It is fituated
in an ifle, furrounded by the river Caveri, which is even here about
five feet deep, and runs over a rocky channel. The length of this
ile is about four miles, and the breadth about a mile and a half; the
weltern fide being allotted to the fortrefs, diftinguifhed by regular
out-works, magnificent palaces, and lofty mofques: for Tippoo and
his father were Mahometans. ‘The environs were decorated with noble”
ardens ; and among the means of defence was what is called the bound
las confifting of every thorny tree or cauftic plant of the climate,
planted to the breadth o. ..: ~ thirty to fifty feet. When the ftrength
of the fortifications of all kinus, sed the number of Tippoo’s troops
and artillery, are confidered, our repeated fucceffes muft afford a con-
viuncing proof that no climate can overcome Britifh courage, conduct, and
.perfeverance.
In this central territory we alfo poffefs feveral confiderable towns,
Salem and Attore in the eaft ; Dindigul, Coimbetore, Palicaud, on the
fouth ; and on the weftern coatt, Panieny, Ferokabad, Calicut, now
nearly deferted, Tellicherri, Mangalore, and our northern poffeffion of
arwar is within forty miles of the Portuguefe fettlement of Goa;
While on the fouth we approach within a like diftance of Cochin. Of
thefe
446 HINDOSTAN.
thefe places, Calicut is memorable as the firft Indian port vifited by the
Portuguefe unde Vafco de Gama, and as the feat of the Zamorins, who
at that period appear to have pofleffed the whole Malabar coalt from
Goa to Cochin. .
The native rajas of Myfore, a part of whofe dominions we have
alfo fhared, were princes of fome eminence, fupplanted by the Ma.
hometan ufurpation of Hyder. In the Carnatic we have long held
Madras, where our anceftors fettled about 1640; but the fortrefs,
which is ftrong, and includes a regular well-built city; is of modern
date. Unhappily there is no port, nor is there indeed one haven for
Jarge veffels, from the mouth of the Ganges to T'rrincomali on the eattern
fide of Ceylon, which renders this laft of fingular benefit to our com.
merce. hrough this wide extent of fifteen degrees, or more than
1000 Britifh miles, the coaft forms nearly an uniform line, infelted with a
dangerous furf, and fcarcely acceflible except in the flat-bottomed boats of
the country. But if found neceffary European induftry might certainly
form a port at the wide but impeded mouths of the Godavery, the
Kiftna, or the Caveri; and when our colonies fhall have affumed a per.
manent and fteady progrefs of population it is probable that fuch defigns
may be executed.
Not far from the weflern frontier of our fettlement at Madras {tands
Arcot, elteemed the capital of Carnada or the Carnatic. The Navab*
often refides at Madras. In his dominions there are feveral celebrated
temples, vilited by numerous pilgrims ; and in general the fouthern parts
of Hindoftan difplay more numerous edifices, and other marks of civili.
zation, than the northern.
Having thus briefly mentioned the Britith poffeffions in this quarter of
Hindoftan, and their neareft ally, it may be proper to indicate a few
other remarkable places to the fouth of thefe poflefiions. ‘Tranquebar is
a noted Danifh fettlement in the kingdom of Tanjore, which embraces
the wide Delta of the Caveri. This fertlement was formed about 1617,
and has been chiefly remarkable on account of the Lutheran miffionarics,
who reforted hither to convert the Hindoos, and have fometimes contri.
buted to illuftrate natural hiftory. Pondicherri was the principal fettle.
ment of the I'rench, founded in 1674, and before the war of 1756, was a
Jarge and beautiful city.
On the weltern coaft, or that of Malabar, ftands Cochin, on the
northern point of a long tract of land, forming a kind of ifland, fur,
rounded on the eaft by a creek of the fea, which receives feveral ttreams.
But this feemingly ample harbour is obitruéted by a dangerous bar.
When the Portuguefe firft vifited Hindoftan, Cochin and the fur.
‘ pounding territory were poffeffed by a native raja, and the celebrated
Vafeo de Gama died here in 1525. ‘This city remained fubject to the
Portuguefe till 1660, when it was taken by the Dutch. The furround-
ing creeks and marfhes of this low and unhealthy fhore abound with fh
and game +.
To the north of the Britith territories firft occurs Goa, formerly a
eapital fettlement of the Portuguefe, and a noted feat of their Inquifition,
‘(his city, once magnificent, flands ona {mall ifland in the midit of a
beautiful bay, which receives a rivulet called the Gonga, and two ot
three others irom the Balagauts, or higheft mountains of Suckhien,
® This word, alfo weitten Nalob, implies licutenant-governor, or viceroy ; but the
title became hereditary.
+ Wellin, 120. gives a good account of Cochita
which
which form a gre
riegated with hii]
celebrated Albug
India, A.D. 15)
centre of Portug
India, and if in th
mer confequence,
The other par:
will be proper to
am capital of the wef}
city; the archives
feat of power, bej
the fouth-eatt.
Viliapour, in the
able city, and was ,
In the vicinity are «
. hs is the
cularly of the celeb
otherwife little rem
Calberga, formerly
Deccan, under the
general view of Hi,
tnguithed note ocey
which rifes nearly in
courfe of about 350
Canoul, have been de
Map) Apri T8090,
IS
Extent and Name, —
Towns, — Manufaa,
—Zoology, — Miner
Extext AND WA MEL]
taggeration of th q
generally fuppofed o b
“ag but in th.
¢ that what j
povince, Th 1 +
rey
talle Lanca
tory is little Ror ~i
ane bya Singalef
tle for his name, has
‘iland, 1506, the ¢
° Pennant,
CEYLON. 4ay
‘ich form a grand diftant profpe&, while the intervening f{cene is va-
a with hills, woods, Heid and villas. It was feized by the
celebrated Albuquerque, the greateft of the Portuguefe commanders in
India, A.D. 1513. It afterwards became another Malacca, another
centre of Portuguefe trade *. The harbour is ranked —— the firtt m
India, and if in the hands of the Englith, would probably refume its for.
mer confequence. J ; f
The other parts: of the coaft prefenting few remarkable objects it
will be proper to pafs the mountainous ridge, and firft vifit Porna, the
capital of the weftern empire of the Marattas, but a mean, defencelefs
city; the archives of the government, and in all appearance the chief
feat of power, being at Poorunder, a fortrefs about eighteen miles to
the fouth-eatt. ; :
Viliapour, in the Maratta territory, alfo called Bejapour, is a confider.
able city, and was once the capital of a large kingdom of the fame name.
Inthe vicinity are celebrated diamond mines. ; ;
Hydrabad is the metropolis of the Nizam’s territory, and parti-
pei of the celebrated kingdom or province of Golconda, but feems
otherwife little remarkable. Betwixt thefe two laft named cities ftands
Calherga, formerly the capital of a powerful kingdom, that of the
Deccan, under the Bamineah dynafty, as already mentioned in the
general view of Hindoftan. On paffing the Kiftna, few places of dif-
tinguifhed note occur. The regions on the great: river Toombuddra,
which rifes nearly in the parallel of Seringapatam, and purfuesa northern
courfe of about 350 British miles, till it joins the Kiltna after paffing
Canoul, have been delineated with fuperior accuracy in Rennell’s lait
map, Apri T8300,
ISLAND OF CEYLON, —
Extent and Name. — Religion. — Population. — Manners and Cufloms, ~
Towns. — Manufadures. — Climate. — Rivers. — Mountains. — Forefts.
—Zoalogy. — Mineralogy. — Pearl Fifbery.— Other Iles.
HOUGH this ifland is not above a fifth
part of the iize afcribed to it by the ftrange
traggeration of the ancients, it ttill approaches to that of Ireland, being
generally fuppofed to be about 260 B. miles in length by about 150 in
breadth; but in the wide continent of Afia territory is on fo large a
wale, that what in Europe would conttitute a kingdom is here fourcely a
province, ‘L'his ifle is the T'aprobana, Salice, and Sieledeba of the an«
cients, the Serendib of the Arabians: in the Hindoo language it ia
tilled Lanca ; and the people are doubtlefs of Hindoo origin. tts hifs
tory is little known. In the reign of Claudius, embaffadors were fent
to Rome by a Singalefe rajia, raja, or king, whom Pliny, miftaking his
ttle for his name, has called Rachia+. When the Portugucfe feized
itis ifland, 1506, the chicf monarch was the king of Cotta; but the
EXTENT AND NAME. ]
—
® Pennant, i, 119. t Pliny, vi. 22,
central
CEYLON.
448
central province of Candea, or Candi, afterwards appears as the leadin
rincipality. The Portuguefe retained poffeffion of the fhores (the in,
fand parts rifing ‘toa high table land, bounded by forefts and difficult
paffes,) till about 1660, when they were expelled by the Dutch, be.
tween whom and the king of Kandi a war arofe 1759, which terminated
1766 by the fubmiffion of the latter, who furrendered all the coafts, and
agreed to deliver yearly a quantity of cinnamon at a low rate*, From
the fordid domination of the Dutch it has recently paffed under the More
liberal banner of Britifh power, A
Revicion.] The religion of Ceylon is the ancient worthip of
Boodh, whofe images appear with fhort and crifped hair, hecaufe it
is fabled that he cut it with a golden {word, which produced that
effect +. The worfhip of Boodh is fuppofed to have originated in
Ceylon ; and thence to have fpread to ancient Hindoftan, to Exterior
India, Tibet, and even to China and Japan. Such are the traditions
in Siam, Pegu, &c. which fuppofe that Boodh, probably a kind of
Confucius or deified philofopher, flourifhed about 540 years before the
Chriftian eras and as the Boodhis in general fhew a prodigious fupe-
riority of good fenfe to the vifionary Brahmins, their accounts deferve
more credit than the idle dreams and mi-lionary chronology of the
Pundits. Others however fuppofe that the worfhip of Boodh originated
in Exterior India {. a
PopuLation.} There does not yet appear to be any authentic intel.
ligence concerning the population of.Ceylon ; but as it feems to remain
almoft in a ftate of nature, the inhabitants cannot be inferred to be nu.
merous, The hundreds of cities mentioned by ancient writers are now
efteemed completely fabulous; nor does there feem to be one place de.
ferving the name of a city, mentioned either In ancient or modern record,
This ifland is only important in a commercial view, from its celebrated
products of cinnamon and gems. The harbour of Trincomali on the
eaft is to us of great confequence, becaufe there is none on the eaftern
evaft of Hindottan: and it has even been vaste that in cafe any
revolution, to which all human affairs are fubje » fhould expel us from
the continent of Hindoftan, this ifland might afford an extenfive and
grand afylum, where the Britifh name and conimerce might be per.
Ot caaae AND customs,] The natives of Ceylon, called Singalefe,
either from a native or Portuguefe term, are not fo black as thofe of Ma
labar, and have a few manners and cuftoms di(tinét from other Hiadoos
It is faid that feveral brothers may have one wife in common, as in Tibet,
but the polygamy of males is alfo allowed §. In general chaitity is littk
efteemed in the oriental countries ; and the morality of many nations is
fo lax in this refpect, that the intercourfe of the fexes is canfidered a
far more indifferent than the ufe of certain foods. The language is .
ther peculiar ; but fome of the natives underftand both the ‘T'amulic an
ar.
ge ethane nf native town Kandi, in the centre of the ifle, feems to
be of {mall fize and confequence, and rahe only diftinguifhed by ’ pe
lifade and a few temples |j. It was taken by the Portuguete in 1590; bu
porecent traveller
ower,
The-chief: town |
Cslombo, a handfo,
nrnor is elegant, br
the cool air*, Cey
climate is not fo hot
narfhy exhalationg ¢
where the Dutch pr
Singalefe languages.
asthat of Nigombo,
The northern part
town of Jafnapatam,
The grand pearl fithe
tatchey, a miferable
fom Aripoo, a villa
bridge fupply inexhay
On A ra theft
tanks, or rocks s but
mouth of the Morvil ¢
probana ; and was def
laven on the fame fide
But the fouthern fid
gems and cther rich pr
nolt fouthern promont
mmoa were collected,
city t. Not far to ¢
fycailed, a handfome t
arock f,
Maxuractunns, 7
du@ed in this ifland; b
works in gold and iron,
with cinnamon, pepper
hones be forgotten amo
abitter in recent ufe, ri
country or diitriGt feems
LIMATE.} The cli
the adjacent continent ;
le air more cool and
omewhat refembles th;
the centre, being furro
mbreadth, High mous
ad plants, and many pl
ich by the Hindoos
Na rich fat foil ; and,
lel vegetables,
Rivers.) ‘There are
yf which the chief is “the
capital in his time, a
M the royal palaces. bei
PS a treafure of gems
* decorated with disht
® i . + Af. Ref. vi. 459, i
4 Frere aes thei chief diftinfions between the priefts of Boodh and ne Dale
the former may lay down the priefthood ; they eat flefh, but will not kill the animal ; an
they form.no caft nor tribe, but are from the mafs of the people,
* Thunberg, iv. 175
Wefdin, 435. $Thunkers! 78
) Mondello, 279, who gives a lift of the other towns,
nd
CEYLON. - 449
po recent traveller appears to have vifited this deep recefs of fovereign
ower,
The-chief town of the Portuguefe, Dutch, and Enclith poffeffions, is
Cslombo, a handfome place, and weil fortified; the relidenze of the go-
ymor is elegant, but only confifts of one floor, with a balcony to receive
te cool air*. Ceylon being expofed on all fides to the fea breezes, the
dimate is not fo hot as that of Hindottan; far lefs peitiferous, like the _
narfhy exhalations of Batavia. At Colombo there is a printing prefs,
where the Dutch publith religious books in the Tamulic, Malabar, and
Singalefe languages. ‘The name of Colombo feems. indigenous, as well
gthat of Nigombo, a fortrefs a few miles to the N. of this capital.
The northern parts of’ Ceylon are chiefly left to the natives, but the
town of Jafnapatam, or Jafna, was a Dutch fettlement ina detached ifle.
The grand pearl fifhery is conduéted in the gulph of Manar, near Con-
datchey, a miferable place in a fandy diftri€t, to which water is brought
fom Aripoo, a village four miles to the fouth: the fhoals near Rama’s
bridge fupply inexhauttible ftores of this valued production +.
On purfuing thefhore towards the eaft, it is moftly guarded by fand-
baks, or rocks; but the whole harbour of Trincomali opens at the
mouth of the Morvil Ganga, the Ganges of Ptalemy’s large map of Ta-
probana ; and was defended by a ttrong fortrefs. Batacola is an inferior
laven on the fame fide of the ifland. ;
But the fouthern fide of Ceylon has been chiefly vifited, abounding with
ms and other rich productions. . Matura was a Dutch factory near the
not fouthern promontory called Dondra, where excellent kinds of cin-
nmon were colle€ted, and varieties of precious. flones abound in the vi-
city t. Not far to the W. of Matura is Gale, or Galle, near a point
fycailed, a handfome town ilrongly fortified, on the projecting angle of
arock .
Maxuractures.] There is little mention of any manufactures con-
ded in this ifland; but the natives feem not unfkilled in the common
works in gold and iron. The Dutch fhips ufed to fail from Galle, laden .
with cinnamon, pepper, and other fpices: nor mult pearls and precious
fones be forgotten among the articles of export. The Colombo wood,
abitter in recent ufe, reccives ‘+s name from the capital; but its native
country or diitriét feems itill unknown,
Cumate.} The climate and feafons correfpond in fome degree with
the adjacent continent ; yet the expofure on all fides to the fea renders
ihe air more cool and falubrious. The general afpe&t of the country
fomewhat refembles that of fouthern Hindollans; a high table land, in
the centre, being furrounded with low flores, about fix or eight leagues
in breadth. High mountains, prodigious forefts, full of aromatic trees
ad plants, and many pleafant rivers and ftream, diverfify this country,
ich by the Hindoos is efteemed a fecond paradife. The vales are
farich fat foil; and, when cleared, amazingly fertile in rice, and other
ieful vegetables. ‘ ‘
Rivers.] ‘There are five: confiderable rivers defcribed by Ptolemy ;
f which the chief-is the Morvil Ganga, on which ftood - laecuturs
¢ capital in his time, and modern Kandi {tands on the fame ftream, one
f the royal palaces being on an ifle in that river, where the monarch
eps a treafure of gems; and his officers, like thofe of Exterior India,
decorated with flight chains of gold.
* Thunberg, Ww. 175. + Af, Ref. v, 397,
$ Thuaberg, iv. 195, 231, ‘ § Ib, 194,
Gg
é
|
'
450 CEYLON.
The Phafis of Ptolemy running N. is pene the ftream which patfes
to the N.W. by Ackpol. His weftern ftream of Soana is perhaps that
which enters the fea in that direGtion, near the centre of the ifle. The |
Azanus, S.W., feems that near the point of Galle; while his Baracus,
E., is the Barokan. ; ;
Mountatns.] The chain or chains of mountains run N. and §., the
fouthern part being called Malea by the Greek geographer ; a mere na,
tive term for a mountain as Ganga for a river. ‘The northern part is by
Ptolemy called Galibe. Thefe mountains feem granitic, and are pecu.
liarly rich in precious ftones imbedded in primitive quartz. What the
Mahometans 5 termed Adam’s Peak is efteemed the higheft ; and ig
in Sanfcrit called Salmala, Buodh being fabled to have afcended from it
- to heaven. ‘
Forests.}] The forefts are numerous and large, the haunts of inny.
merable elephants, like the Gauts of fouthert Hindoftan. An ample
account of the botany of this ifland is given by the fkilful Thunberg ;
ene of the moft peculiar and precious trees is that producing the beg
cinnamon.
Zootocy.] The elephants of Ceylon are fuppofed only to yield in
beauty to thofe of Siam, and chiefly frequent the fouthern part of the
ifland. Buffaloes are alfo found in a wild ftate, while the tame are ufed
Among a vaft variety of elegant birds, the peacock, :
of the Hindoo foretts, {warms in this beautiful ifland.
MineraLocy.] Ceylon, opulent in every department of natural hif
tory, prefents many minerals of uncommon beauty. Not to mentio
iron, gold, plumbago, &c., Thunberg has given a lift of the preciou
ftones, among which are the genuine ruby, fapphire, and topaz. Th
fineft rock cryftals, both the colourlefs, and thofe of a violet colour calle
amethyfts, are found here in abundance, and are generally dark brow
or yellowifh; while thofe of other colours come from Brazil an(
Tyrol. It is alfo aflerted that this ifland produces the genuine em
rald, which is commonly efteemed peculiar to Peru. The cat’s e
feems the characteriftic mineral of Ceylon, as the noble or genuine op
is of Hungary. | ’
Pean.s.] Nor muft the pearl fithery be forgotten, which common
begins on the N.W. fhore about the middle of February, and continue
till about the middle of April, when the S.W. monfoon commences 4
The village of Condatchey is then crowded with a mixture of thoufand limits, and many of t
of people of different cat countries, calts, and occupations; wit wolably fixed by the
aumerous tents and huts, and bazars, or fhops; while the fea prefen bed modern Per
many boats haftening to the banks, or returning with the expede ined with the moft re
riches, ‘The divers are chiefly Chriftians or Moflems, who defce
from five to ten fathoms, and remain under water about two minut
each bringing up.about a hundred oyttersiin his net. Thefe pearls 2
always formed like the coats of an onion, around a grain of fand or fom owever, been litt
other extraneous particle, The yellow or gold coloured are moft eftee de have termed the
by the natives ; and fome are of a bright red luftre, but the dull grey a ic all the wide reg
blackith are of no value. iM mu of the Ruffiz
‘yond that celebrated
® AfRef, v. 994.
Orn
Divisions. ]
moft diftrafted and d
nowned for wifdom z
and mutual enmity ay
and political. ‘This
tled es Aig divifio
near the Cafpian, fec’
kind of indie endence
and exaGt delineation
Name.) The name
the a
has
OTHER Iszrs.
coafts of Hindoft
aparticular defer
man and Nicobar
account of them.
coaft they are th
that in the Hindo
thofe which marin
dives, at more tha
inclofure of {mall
hallow water bety
and the trade is j
age is Singalefe,
orm a More exten
trade in cocoa nut:
the vicinity.
af sek — Name. -
rovinces. — Hi/fe
—Eafern Perfia.
H
ughout this mi
pPellation of
an
CEYLON. 4st
Orner 1sLes.] There are no other ifles of any confequence near the
coatts of Hindoftan. Thofe called Lacadives and Maldives fcarcely merit
aparticular defcription in a work of this general nature; and the Anda-
man and Nicobar ifles properly belong to Exterior India, where a fhort
account of them may be found after the peninfula of Malacca, to which
coaft they are the moft approximated. It may here fuffice to obferve
that in the Hindoo language dive implies an ifle: and Ptolemy computes
thofe which mariners faw before they reached Ceylon, that is the Mal-
dives, at more than thirteen hundred. They form as it were an oblong
inclofure of {mall low regular ifles around a clear {pace of fea with ve;
fallow water between each. They are governed by a chief called Atoll,
and the trade is in cowrie fhells, with cocoa nuts and fifh*, The lane
age is Singalefe, and there are fome Mahometans. The Lacadive iflands
orm a more extended group, though only thirty in number. They alfo
trade in cocoa nuts and fifh; and ambergris is often found floating in
the vicinity.
——————————_—=_
PERSIA.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Divifions. — Name. — Extent.— Population. — Progrefive Geography. —
Provinces. — Hiftlorical Epochs.— Ancient Monuments.— Modern Hiftory.
—Eafern Perfia.
HE ancient and powerful monarchy of Perfia has,
Divistows. | T during the avecies part of laft senbary; been in a
moft diftra&ted and divided condition, and the inhabitants formerly re-
nowned for wifdom and benignity, have been degraded, by civil difcord,
and mutual ig and diftruft, into a temporary debafement both moral
and political. ‘This empire feems at length, in fome degree, to have fet-
tled into two divifions, the eaftern and the weftern ; while the provinces
near the Cafpian, fecured by mountains and faitneffes, have afferted a
kind of independence. ‘Thefe circumftances are unfavourable to a jut
andexact delineation of the prefent ftate of the country ; but the chief
limits, and many of the moft important geographical topics, have been in-
violably fixed by the hand of nature ; and the following defcription fhall
embrace modern Perfia in general, as it was in the time of Chardin, com-
bined with the moft recent and authentic information.
Name. ] The name of Perfia {pread from the province of Pars or Fars
throughout this mighty empire, in like manner as, among other inftances,
the appellation of England originated from a fmall tribe. This name,
has, leceaa been little known to the natives, who in ancient and modern
times, have termed their.country Jran, under which denomination were in-
cluded all the wide regions to the S. and W. of the river Qxus, or Gihon, ’
the Amu of the Ruffians and Tatars ; while the countries fubje& to Perfia
beyond that celebrated river were in ancient timcs flyled Aniran,
@ Penrant, i. 51.
Gg2 ; Exrenx®.)
a NR ee NO te i EEN RRNA
452 PERSIA.
Extent.j} From the mountains and deferts which, with the river
Araba, contlitute the eaftern frontier towards Flindottan, Perfia extends
more than 1300 miles in length, to the tveftern mountains of Elevend,
and other limits of Afiatic Turkey. From fouth to north, from the de.
ferts on the Indian fea, in all ages left to the _Ichthyophagi, or wild tribes
‘of Arabs who live on fifh, to the other deferts near the fea of Aral are
about 1000 B. miles.
Porucation.] The original population of the mountainous country
of Perfia appears to have been indigenous, that is, no preceding nation can
be traced ; and in the opinion of all the moft learned and fkilful inquirers, ,
this nation is Scythic or Gothic, andthe very fource and tountain of all
the celebrated Scythian nations. While the 1outhern Scythians of Tran
gradually became a fettled and ~:vilized people, the barbarous northern
tribes {pread around the Cafpian and Euxine feas ; and befides the power.
ful fettlements of the Getz and Maflagetz, the Gog and Magog of orien.
tal authors, and others on the north and eatt of the great ridge of moun.
tains called Imaus, or Belur Tag, they detached victorious colonies into
the greater part of Europe many centuries before the Chri(tian era*, The
ancient Medes and Parthians in the north of Perfia appear however to
have been of Sarmatic, or Slavonic origin, and to have f{pread from their
native regions on the Volga, towards the Circaffian mountains, along
which ridge they pafled to the fouth of the Cafpian, the ancient fite of
Media and Parthiene. The grand chain of Caucafus forms a kind of
central point of immigration and emigration from the I. and W. whence
tke great variety of nations and languages that are traced even in modern
times. The late very learned and excellent Sir William Jones, who did
honour to his country and century, has repeatedly expreffed his opinion
that while the Parfi and Zend, or proper and peculiar Perfian language, is
of the fame origin with the Gothic, Greek, and Latin ; the Pehlaviis
Affyrian or Chaldaic.
ProGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] The contefts of ancient Perfia with
Greece, and the Greek colonies eftablifhed in Afia Minor, then within
the wide limits of the Perfian empire, have rendered the ancient geography
of this country not a little luminous. Herodotus, the father of hiftory,
was born at Halicarnaffus, one of thefe colonies ; and his account of the
twenty fatrapies, or great provinces of the Perfian empire, in the reign
of Darius Hytftafpes, or Ghufhtafp, has been ably illuflrated in a late
work of Major Rennell. . The prefent defign however only embraces the
modern provinces and Jimits ; and the former may be thus arranged, pro-
- ceeding from the W. towards the N. E. after remarking that the limits
of the ancient and modern provinces often coincide, as they confitt of
rivers and ranges of mountains.
Provinces.] 1. Georgia, or more properly Gurguftan, in which may
be included Daghiitan and Shirvan. “‘Thefe may be confidered as conti.
tuting the Albania of the ancients ; a name applied in different quarters to
mountainous regions.
2. Erivan, a large portion of ancient Armenia, between the river Ku,
or Cyrus on the north, and the Aras or Araxes on the fouth.
3, Aderbijan, including Mogan, the Atropatena of the ancients.
* 4. Ghilan to. the eaft of the laft on the Cafpian fea, and fynonymous
with the ancient Gela.
* See the author's Differtation on the Seythians.or Goths, in his Inquiry into the Hifoy
° OF Scodand, 2 vols. evo.
5. To
it To clofe tl
encircled on the {
of the Mardi of
Hyrcania, now (
6. Returning
re{ponding with t
Ifpahan, the moc
», Chofiftan ex
Balea, after a rec
Turks. This pri
8 The celebr;
rounded with mot
by adefert from I
with Iftakar and t
9. Kerman, th
10. Lariftan, a
Fars, of which {
feem to be known
on the S. of Fars,
gilph, feem here r
the ancient Perfian:
feat of great wealt!
11. To the E. c
tends to the Indiat
This province has a
geography here pre
jan, on the moft W
12. Segiftan, anc
the Arachofia and
# mifus in the N. E. ¢
Hindoltan,
13. The grand al
is Corafan, bounded
by the lake of Zer
claflical provinces c
inthe S. Aria.
Belides thefe pra
the ancient Perfian
termed a wide and
miles {quare ; and o
try on the river §
fifteenth fatrapy of
the country of Sha
province adjoined o
latrapy, and is now
of Khiva,
The countries la
called Independent
nected with Perfian-
to this.article ; whid
plete the defcription
tate and thofe of R
will allow, The pr
Strabo, Pliny, the |
and afterwards thro
PERSIA.. 453.
g. To clofe the lift of countries on the Cafpian, Mazendran appears
encircled on the fouth by a lofty branch of the Caucafian chain, the feat.
of the Mardi of antiquity ; to the E. of which was the noted province of
Hyrcania, now Corgan and Dahiltan.
6. Returning to the W. frontier, there occurs Irac Ajemi, chiefly cor.
re(ponding with the ancient Ecbatana. Inthe fouth of this province is
Ifpahan, the modern capital of Perfia.
», Chofiftan extending to the river Tigris ; but the capital Buffora, or
Balea, after a recent vain attempt of the Arabs, remains fubjeét to the’
Turks. This province correfponds with the ancient Sufiana.
8. The celebrated province of Fars, Perfis, or Perfia Proper, fur- _
rounded with mountains on the N. the W. the S., and on the E. feparated
by adefert from Kerman, Fars contains the beautiful city of Shiraz,
with Iftakar and the ruins of Perfepolis. . ;
g» Kerman, the ancient Carmania. .
10. Lariltan, a fmall province on the Perfian gulph to the S. E. of
Fars, of which fome regard it as a part; nor does the fubdivifion
feem to be known in ancient times, though the long ridges of mountains
onthe S. of Fars, and generally about 60 B. miles from the Perfian
gilph, feem here naturally to indicate a maritime province ; which, if
the ancient Perfians had been addicted to commerce, would have been the
feat of great wealth by intercourfe with Arabia, Africa, and India.
11. To the E. of Kirman is the large province of Mekran, which exe
tendsto the Indian deferts, and is the ancient Gadruftan or Gedrofia,
This province has always been unfertile and full of deferts: and claffical
geography here prefents only one mean town called Pura, probably Bor... ~
jaa, on the moft W., frontier.
12, Segiftan, another wide frontier province towards India, was chiefly,
the Arachofia and Saranga of antiquity ; while the province of Paropa-
mifus in the N. E.encroached on Candahar and the modern limits of
Hindoltan. ; ,
13. The grand and terminating divifion of modern Perfia in the N. E.
is Corafan, bounded by the Gihon or Oxus on the N. E., andon the S.
by the lake of Zere, or Zurra, the grand Aria Palus of antiquity, ‘The
claflical provinces comprifed within Corafan are, inthe N. Margiana, and
inthe S. Aria.
Belides thefe provinces, and exclufive of Afiatic Turkey on the W.
the ancient Perfian empire comprifed Ba@triana or Balk, which may be
termed a wide and well watered kingdom of between zooand 400 B.
miles fquare ; and on the other fide of the Oxus, Sogdiana, or the conn-
try on the river Sogod, which paffes. by modern Samarcand. The
fifteenth fatrapy of Herodotus comprifes the Sace and Cafpii, probably
the country of Shath, and fome other tribes nearer the Cafpian fea, This
province adjoined on the W. to Corafmia, which belonged to the fixteenth
pet and is now the defert {pace of Kharifm, withthe fmall territory
of Khiva, r
The countries laft mentioned form fo confiderable a part of what is
called Independent Tatary, and have in all ages been fo intimately con-
neGted with Perfian-hiltory, that fome account of them fhall be annexed
to thisarticle ; which, joined with that in the Chinefe empire, will com-
plete the defcription of the countries between the dominions of that great
tate and thofe of Ruffiaand Perfia, fo far as the very imperfect materials
will allow. . The progreffive geography of Perfia may be traced through
Strabo, Pliny, the hiltorians of Alexander, and other claffical fources ;
and afterwards through the 94 authors Ebn Haukal, Abulfeda,
g 3 &c.
ea ne eee MOREE oe ete e cey cree pan
454 PERSIA.
ae &c. to the modern labours of Chardin, and other intelligent tra.
vellers.
Historicar epocus.] The chief hiftorical epochs of the Perfian em.
pire may be arranged in the following order :
1. The Scythians or barbarous inhabitants of Perfia, according to the
account of Juftin, conquered a great part of Afia, and attacke Egypt
about 1500 years before the reign of Ninus the founder of the A ffyrian
monarchy ; that is, fo far as the faint light of chronology can pretend to
determine fuch remote events, about 3660 years before the Chriftian gra,
The Egyptians, a people of Affyrian extraét, as the Coptic language
feems to evince, were from fuperior local advantages civilized at a -
more early period, and their genuine chronology feems to begin about
4000 years before Chrift. The venerable hiftorical records contained
in the fcriptures atteft the early civilization and ancient polity of the
&gyptians. The firft feat of the Perfian monarchy was probably in the
N.E. on the river Oxus ; while the Affyrians poffeffed the Euphrates
and the Tigris, and the S.W. of Perfia.
The hiftory of the Affyrian empire begins with Ninus about 2160
“years before Chrift, who is faid to have formed an alliance with the king
of Arabia, and, in conjunction with him, to have fubdued all Afia, except
India and Bactriana; that is, according to the ancient knowledge, he
{ubdued Afia Minor and the weft of Perfia.
‘"2. Zoroatter king of Baétriana is faid to have been contemporary with
Ninus, and to have invented magic; that is, he was a wife man, who
could’produce uncommon effeéts by common caufes. But the hittory of
this Perfian lawgiver is loft in remote antiquity.
j 3: Cyrus founds what is called the Perfian empire, 557 years before
the Chrian era, and foon after takes Babylon. This great event may
be faid only to have difclofed to the Perfians the civilized nations of
the weft, for the native Perfian hiftories afcend to Kayumarras, great
grandfon of Noah, and the ancient traditions chiefly refer to wars
againft pi and {ndja, which indicate the primitive caftern pofition of
the people. © ©
iy The overthrow of the firft Perfian empire by Alexander, B.C.
328, followed by the Greck monarchs of Syria, and the Grecian king.
dom of Baétriana, of which laft an interefting hiftory has been compiled
by the learned Bayer. It commenced about 248 years before Chritt, and
contained feveral fatrapies, among which was Sogdiana.
g. The Parthian empire, which Jikewife began about 248 years B.C.
This was a mere revival of ‘the Perfian empire under a new name.
' 6, Ardthur, or Artaxerxes, about the year 220 of the Chriltian era, re.
ftores the Perfian line of kings ; this dyna{ty being called Saffanides.
"a, The conquett of Perfia by the Mahometans, A. D.636. The native
singdom was revived in Corafan, A. D. 830; and after feveral revolutions
refumed its former fituation.
8. The acceflion of the houfe af Boniah, A. PD. 934,
g. That of the houfe of Sefi or Sofi, A. D. 1501, whence the title of
Sotis of Perfia, for it is unneceffary here to repeat the conquelis of Zingis
and Timur, and the fubfequent divifions and revolutions.
"30. The reign of Shah Abas, furnamedthe Great, A, D. 1586.
11. The brief conqueftby the Afgane, 1722; and confequent extinction
of the houfe of Sefi, and elevation of Nadir, furnamed Thamas Kouli Khan,
A. D. 1736. ‘This ferocious chief was born in Corafan; and after a reign
of eleven years was flain 20th June, 1747, near the city of Methid, in the
fame country. — “6 es
on Ay
ANCIENT Mt
fate of Perfia f]
ments. Of the
markable. Th
§. W. about fo:
of the extenfive
cles them in the
be feen in the m
be an idle attem]
columns and nun
in a character nc
nails, difpofed it
Several {mall
_ various parts of
conqueft, but it.
In many parts
antiquity, which
to inveltigate thi
rather requires {
ence powerful 1
Franklin’s view
Shah, 1747, to
by command of |
and Ghilan ; and
and 1764.
MopERN Rist
who, after a tra’
Meanwhile Timu
rovinces adjacen
in Perfia he befieg
months.
This event was
impoffible to fettl
mitted during the
every province fre
fruction through
of the people, w
courage into feroc
At length the
a confiderable {pa
ever never aflume
Vakeel or regent
officer of Nadir ;
fouthern province
warmly fupported
and revered his juf
city and its enviro
the highways, ang
by the {word, but
arofe from extrem
reftore the comme
tives and Europes
_ Another unhap
his relation Zikea
by another kinfm
PERSIA. 455
ANCIENT MONUMENTS.}] Some account of the modern hiftory and
fate of Perfia thall be given, after a very brief view of the ancient monu-
ments. Of thefe the ruins of Perfepolis are the moft celebrated and re-
markable. They are fituated at the bottom of a mountain, fronting
g, W. about forty miles to the north of Shiraz. They command a view
of the extenfive plain of Merdafht, and the mountain of Rehumut encir- ,
cles them in the form of an amphitheatre ; the nature of thefe ruins may,
be feen in the numerous plates which have been publifhed ; and it would
bean idle attempt to defcribe in few words the grand portals, halls, and
columns and numerous relievos and devices, There are many infcriptions
ina character not yet explained, the letters of which fomewhat refemble
nails, difpofed in various dire€ions,
Several {mall edifices and caverns of fimilar architeCture are found in
_ various parts of Perfia, all which undoubtedly preceded the Mahometan
conqueft, but it is difficult to afcertain their precife era.
Inmany parts of Perfia their muft remain feveral curious monuments of
antiquity, which might well excite the curiofity of the learned traveller
to inveltigate this interefting country.. The defign of the prefent work
rather requires fome information concerning the modern ftate of this
ence powerful monarchy, which fhall be chiefly. derived from Mr.
Franklin’s view of the tranfaétions in Perfia from the death of Nadir
Shah, 1747, to 1788; combined with the accounts of Gmelin, who
by command of the emprefs of Ruffia infpeted the northern provinces
and Ghilan ; and thofe of Pallas, in his laft travels during the years 1763
and 1764. ;
Haines nistory.} Nadir Shah was fucceeded by his nephew Adil,
who, after a tranfitory reign, was followed by his brother Ibrahim,
Meanwhile Timur Shah reigned in Cabul, Candahar, and the Perfian
provinces adjacent to Hindoftan ; and availing himfelf of the confufion
in Perfia he befieged Mefchid, which he took after a blockade of eight
months.
This event was followed by fiich anarchy and confufion, that it feems
impoffible to fettle the chronology of the infinite crimes which were com-
mitted during the contefts of numerous chiefs which defolated almoft
every province from Gombroon to Ruffia, leaving indelible marks of de-
ftruétion throughout the kingdom, and changing even the yery character
of the people, whofe prudence is degenerated into cunning, and their
courage into ferocity,
At length the government of weftern Perfia was happily fettled for
aconfiderable {pace of time in the perfon of Kerim Khan, who how-
ever never aflumed the title of Shah, but was contented with that of
Vakeel or regent. This great and mild prince had been a favourite
officer of Nadir; and at the time of that tyrant’s death was in the
fouthern provinces, where he affumed the power at Shiraz, and was
warmly fupported by the inhabjtants of that city, who had obferved
and revered his juttice and beneficence. In reward he embellithed this
city and its environs with noble palaces, gardens and mofques, improved
the highways, and rebuilt the caravanferas. His reign was eftablithed
by the {word, but was afterwards unfullied by blood ; and its chief peril
arofe from extreme mercy. His charity to the poor, and his attempt to
reftore the cammerce of the country are gratefully remembered by na-
tives and Europeans.
Another unhappy period of confufion follawed the death of Kerim ;
his relation Zikea or Saki feized the gavernment, which was contefted
by another kinfmany Ali Murad. The deteftable cruelty of Zikea
Gg4 led
456 PERSIA.
led to his own deftruétion, and he was maffacred by ‘his troops at
bi ate about ‘fix days journey N. of Shiraz, on the road tg
ahan.
"Abul Futtah was then proclaimed king by the foldiers, and to him
Ali Murad fubmitted; but Sadick, brother of Kerim, oppofed his ne.
phew’s elevation. Sadick marched from Buffora at the head of an army
dethroned the young monarch, and after depriving him of his fight,
ordered him into {trict confinement. 4
Ali Murad, then at Ifpahan, rebelled againft this ufurper, and with
an army of twelve thoufand men befieged and took Shiraz, and put Sa.
dick to death with three of his children. A fon Jaafar was appointed
by 8 new king governor of Kom, a city or province to the N. W, of
pahan.
Ali Murad ‘was now regarded as peaceable poffeffor of the Perfian
throne ; but an eunuch called Aga Mamet, or Akau, had, fince the
death of Kerim, affumed an independent fway-in the ‘Cafpian province
of Mazendran. When advancing againft him, Ali Murad fell from his
horfe and inftantly expired. Jaafar having affumed the fceptre, was de.
feated by Akaw at Yezdekafk, and retired to Shiraz.
In 1792, Akau again colleéted an army, and conquered the cities of
Kafbin and Tekheran or Tahiran. Having then reinforced his troops
with thofe of Ali Khan of Hamfa, a prince who had afferted a kind of
independency fince the death of Ali Murad, he advanced againit Jaafar,
who retreated tu Shiraz, where he perifhed in an infurreCtion, and his fon
Luturf fled to the fouth.
Akau had now no rival except Hidaet, khan of Ghilan, who was
forced to fly from Rafht his place of refidence, but was killed near the
port of Sinfili. In confequence of thefe events Akau became monarch of
all weftern Perfia; and being an eunuch, had nominated for his fuc.
ceffor his nephew Baba Serdar. :
Eastern persia.] Having thus as briefly as poffible difcuffed the
recent hiftory of weftern Perfia, the eaftern half yet remains, being un.
happily feparated in a great degree by high ridges of mountains and
fandy deferts, a circumftance which has been repeatedly produdtive of
great difafters to this wide empire.
This natural feparation has occafioned great obfcurity in the ancient
hiftory of Perfia, the eaftern half remaining a diftin® and independent
country, of the fame general name with the weftern, but with limits and
hiftory totally diftin.
The beft materials concerning the kingdom of Candahar feem to be
thofe colle&ted by Rennell; and they are, if poffible, yet more fcanty
than thofe concerning the' weftern half. Ahmed Abdalla, firft king of
Candahar, was originally the chief of an Afgan tribe, conquered by Nadir
Shah, on whofe Gath he fudderly appeared among his former fubjects,
and foon ereéted a confiderable kingdom in the eaftern part of Pertia in-
cluding moft of the Indian provinces ceded by the Mogul to Nadir. He
cftablithed the capital at Cabul, at a fecure diftance behind the mountains
of Hindoo Koh, )
Ahmed died about the year 1773, and was fucceeded by Timur, who
continued to refide at Cabul ; but the monarchy has’ been ftyled that |
of Gandahar from a central province. ‘The fucceffor of Timur was
Zemaun, who probably {till rules this extenfive country, which has
happily been free from the inteftine commotions which have defolated
welteth Petfia. Since the great battle of Panniput, ‘fought by Ahmed
Abdalla againft the Marattas 1761; the kingdom of Candahar feema
to
to have remaine.
lenity.
The fartheft |
which was prob
the opinion of ]
fiz, or Turthiz
about goo B. mi
isalfo fubje& te
remainder on the
of Lahore, are p
vinces are Kutt
Segiftan, and prc}
province of Gau
The remainder of
tary. The chief
mountains betwee
founders of the ¢
Tatars,
Religion. — Govern
is
R&LIGION, }
been followed by i
the country. Yet
is followed by the
nignity of manners
are regarded by the
Of the Parfees,
remains in Perfia,
of naphtha near Be
innocent idolators
ticilm, which has 4
reprefenting them |
atrocities. Mr, H
particularly worhhip
muzd, or the fup
lieved to have {fpru
chief worthippers of
the Parfees retreated
they fill abound ne
excites attention, ag
voured by birds of
other oriental natio
* Forfter, ii. 14,
$ Gmelin, in the Dece
§ Travels, i, 969,
PERSIA. 457.
to have remained in a pacific ftate, and the government is of applauded
nity
' The fartheft extent of this monarchy on the eaft comprifes Cafhmir,
which was probably fubdued about 1754 *. In the welt, according to
the opinion of Rennelt +, it extends to the vicinity of the city of Ter-
fhiz, or Turthiz, in the fame line of longitude with Mefhid, a fength of
about goo B. miles. The province of Sindiat the mouth of the Indus,
isalfo fubjec&t to Zemaun, with thé weftern part of Moultan, but the
remainder on the eaft bank of that river, and the wide and fertile province
of Lahore, are pofleffed by the Seiks,a warlike nation. The other pro-
yinces are Kuttore, Cabul, Candahar, and within the Perfian boundary
Segiftan, and probably Mekran, with the eaftern part of Corafan, and the
province of Gaur, the medial breadth being probably about 500 miles,
The remainder of Balk and Great. Bucharia belong to Independent Ta-
tary. The chief fubje&ts of Zemaun are the Afgans, or people of the,”
mountains between Perfia and Hindoltan, who may be confidered as the
founders of the empire ; the others are Ilindoos, Perfians, and a few
Tatars.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY. |
Religion. — Government. — Population. — Army.— Navy.— Revenues. —
Political Importance and Relations.
; a eci religion of Perfia is well known to be the }!aho-
Revicton, J metan, which was introduced by the fword, and j:as
been followed by its ufual effeéts, the deftruction and depopuiation of
the country. Yet the Perfians adopt a milder fyRem of this creed than
is followed by the Turks and Arabs. Their native good fenfe and be-
nignity of manners led them to reject feveral abfurdities, whence they
are regarded by the other Mahometans as heretics,
Of the Parfees, or ancient worfhippers of fire, there feem to be no
remains in Perfia, except perhaps a few vifitors of the fiery eruptions
of naphtha near Baku, on the weftern fhores of the Cafpiant. Thefe
innocent idolators have been almoft cxtirpated by Mahometan fana-
ticilm, which has propagated every fcandal that malice could invent,
reprefenting them as devourers of children, and familiar with other
atrocities. Mr. Hanway informs us that thefe Cuehers, or infidels,
particularly worfhip the everlafting fire near Baku, 2: emblem of Or-
muzd, or the fupreme ineffable Creator ; while the evil principle be-
lieved to have fprung from matter, was ftyled Ahriman§. But the
chief worfhippers of the fire of Baku came from Hindoftan, to which
the Parfees retreated when Abas expelled them from his empire ; and
they {till abound near Bombay, where their fingular mode of fepulture
excites attention, as they expofe their dead in inclofed areas to be de-
voured by birds of prey, a cuftom which has been propagated to fome
other oriental nations. Mr. Hanway fays that there were ftill fome
* Forfter, ii. 14, + Page, 152.
$ Gmelin, in the Degouvertes Ruffes, Berne, 1799, fix vols. 6vo, tom. ii, 19,
§ Travels, i, 263,
Wore
458 PERSIA.
worfhippers of fire at a place thence ftyled Gueberabad, near If.
pahan. ft *
Tke priefts of the Mahometan religion, or Mullas, are in Perfia
often ftyled Akonds, which le readers ; and they not only preach
in the mofques, but are often {choolmatters *. ‘The Pechnamas are fuperior
Mullas, or vicars of the Imams+. The Fakirs and Calenders are
wandering monks, or rather fturdy beggars ; who, under the pretext of
religion, compel the people to maintain them in idlenefs,
OVERNMENT.] The government of Perfia, like that of all other
oriental ftates, appears to have been always defpotic ; but its admi.
niftration in eaftern Perfia, or the kingdom of Candahar, is repre.
fented as mild. The ftate of the people feems to be deplorable, being
fubjeét to the arbitrary power and extortions of the numerous Khans or
chiefs. Thefe are fometimes governors of provinces, fometimes only
poffeffors of {mall diftri€&s, and pretend to hereditary fucceffion,
though liable to be forfeited or put to death by the arbitrary man.
date of the fovereign. The great Khans are fometimes ttyled Beg.
lerbergs, or lord of lords; and in time of war Serdars, or generals,
Thofe who command cities are commonly ftyled Darogas, or go.
vernors }.
ATION.] The prefent ftate of the population of Perfia cannot
be juilly chinatc, but onstace little exceeds that of A fiatic Turkey,
which has been computed at ten millions. Of thefe perhaps fix millions
may belong to weftern Perfia; while the other four contribute towards
the population of the kingdom of Candahar. ae
Though Mr. Franklin has ni ey that the rival kings in weftern
Perfia could not _mufter more than twenty thoufand men each, yet
the account of Pallas implies that Aga Mamet raifed an army of
feventy thoufand. But fuppofing weftern Perfia united, and fomewhat
reinftated in profperity, it 1s not probable that the army could exceed
100,000 effe&tive men, which may probably alfo be the amount of that
gg pi ae fome particular precept in the laws of Zoroatter,
which it was impoffible to obferve at fea, the ancient Perfians were never
a maritime people, though they commanded an ample gulf with the
mouths of the Euphrates and the Tigris. The commerce en the Indian
ocean, as well as on the Cafpian fea, has been — chiefly conducted
by the Armenians, a moft induftrious and refpe€table people. Hence
the commerce of this country, fo advantageoufly fituated, has always
been in the hand of ftrangers 5 while the natives, with feudal pride, at.
tend to their horfes and the chace, and lead what is called the life of a
gentleman, neither improving their own property nor the — ,
neral ; f{carcely one Perfian veffel therefore has in any age navigated t
"y it is impoffible to elti.
»] The adtual revenues of Perfia it is impo
Bh a 9 ftate of the country muft render it ————
kith revenue has been computed at feven millions fterling ; an
Rieti j i fhew of probability that the
it may perhaps be conje&tured with fome thew of p yt !
monarch “of Candahar may draw from his various and extenfive pro-
‘ The chlot peclte is flyled Sheikial Selloum, or head of the faith; alfo Sadar Caf
of igh F ‘oft; and fometimes Navab, or vicar (of the prophet), Santon, 20,
?
har), vi, 41,
vinees
Pio de l Perfe,
vinces about
fupplies two
partly in cor
butter, while
the royal dom
anda few du
mated at oc
livres.
PoLtTICAL
and relations o
part united une
‘Ruffians in a
tracted ftate, ]
power of Turl
tending their c
Peter the Gre
cure on the fic
bia: this unhay
anarchy.
Eaftern Perfj
to apprehend f;
Usbee Kans o|
formidable, tho
fore more prob
kings of Cand;
Uz cs. A cl
weltern Perfia ;
| long before this
tions,
Manners and Cuff
MANNeRs AND c
been amply detg
vellers,
More modern j
travels of Gmelin
univerfal politene
pectation of prefe
more wife and fad
the recent commd
charater f, Of
® The toman is co
ure, @ coln o
the toman A rad ~ hi
t Hifoire des Decou
Decouy, R e ii,
4
hence
ways
+] ate
of a
ry in
d the
b elli-
ive.
; and
the
pro
Caf,
winees
vinces aboutsthree millions fterling; while weftern Perfla foarcely
fupplies two millions. Chardin fays that the ancient revenue confifted
partly in contributions in kind; Kurdiftan, for inftance, furnifhing
butter, while Georgia fupplied female flaves } and ) seat arofe from
the royal domains, with a third of metals, precious ftones, and pearls ;
and a, few duties and taxes. The whole revenue was by fome efti-
mated at 700,000 tomans*, or about thirty-two millions of French
res.
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE AND RELATIONS.] The political importance.
and relations of Perfia are now pry re(tritted. Were the weftern
art united under one fovereign, it might lend effectual affiftance to the
‘Rufians in any defign againft the Turks. But in its recent dif-
trated ftate, Perfia has been little formidable even to the declinin
power of Turkey ; and the Ruffians feem to entertain no defire of ex-
tending their conquefts over the mountainous Cafpian provinces, which
Peter the Great once held and abandoned, fo that Perfia feems fe.
cure on the fide of Ruffia, as well as on that of Turkey and Ara.
bia: this unhappy fecurity being in fa&t one grand. caufe of the civil
anarchy.
Eatern Perfia, or the kingdom of Candahar, appears to have little
to apprehend from the Seike on the other fide of the Indus; and: the
Uzbec K¥ans of Balk, Bucharia, and Kharifm, are difunited and little
formidable, though they command a warlike people. It is there-
fore more probable that thefe countries may be vanquifhed by the
kings of Candahar, than that ee) danger fhould arife from ihe
Uzbecs) A conteft may probably happen betweeen eaftern and
weftern Perfia; but even if united under one fovereign, it would be
long before this country could refume her rank among powerful nae
tions.
CHAPTER III,
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cufloms.— Language. Literature. Education. —= Cities,
Manufa@ures and Commerce.
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. ] Ti manners and cuftoms of the Per.
fians, in the feventeenth century, have
been amply detailed by Chardin, Thevenot, Sanfon, and other tra.
vellers.
More modern ideas of Perfian manners may be derived from the
travels of Gmelin in Ghilan+. The Perfians ftill pride themfelves in
univerfal politenefs, and are hofpitable, not however without the ex.
pectation of prefents in return. They feem to confider themfelves as
more wife and fagacious than other nations, yet are paffionate ; and
the recent commotions have imparted a taint of cruelty to the national
charater ¢. Of a fanguine temperament, both rich and poor are genee
* The toman is computed at about 0). 76, being rather more than equal to two gold
moburs, a gold coin of Mindoftan, worth about thirty-two fhillings, Chardin computce
the toman at forty-five livres of his time.
+ Hifoire des Decouvertes Pa par divers favans Voyageurs dans plufeurs contréés de te
a od Perfe. Six vols, 6vO> Berne, 1779—1787,
2 Decouv, Ruff, ii, 276,
rally
460. PERSIA.
rally gay ; and immoderate mirth will fucceed the moft violent quarrels,
They are extremely attached to the fair fexy and not averfe to wine,
The general complexion ‘is fair, fomewhat tinged with olive ; but thofe
in the fouth about Shiraz, of Candahar, and the provinces towards
India, are of a dark brown. They are commonly fat, with black hair.
high forehead, aquiline nofe, full cheeks, and a large chin, the form of
the countenance being frequently oval. The men are generally ftrong and
robult, and inclined to martial exercifes, but they are particularly fub.
ject to diforders of the eyes. They generally fhave the head, and wear
high crimfon bonnets; but the beard is facred, and tended with great
care. They often wear three or four light drefles, one above the other,
fattened with a belt and fath; and they are fond of large cloaks of thick
cloth. The women wrap around their heads pieces of filk of different
colours ; and their robes are rather fhorter than thofe of the men. The
Perfians eat twice or thrice a day, dining about noon, but the chief re.
paft is the fupper, as with the ancient Grecks and Romans. The mot
ufual difh is boiled rice, varioufly prepared, ‘The meat is boiled to ex.
cefs, and the meal is enlarged with pot-herbs, roots, and fruits, cakes,
hard eggs, and above all fweet-meats, of which they are extremely
fond. They are remarkable for cleanlinefs, both in their perfons and
habitations.
Marriages are conducted by female mediation ; and the pomf and cere.
monies fomewhat refemble the Ruffian. Polygamy is allowed; but the
firft married is the chief wife. The tombs of the rich are often grand,
as are the cenotaphs of the twelve Imams, or vicars of the prophets, re.
garded by the Chias as his only lawful fucceffors. .
LanovuaGe.] The language of Perfia is perhaps the moft celebrated
of allthe Oriental tongues, for ftrength, beauty, and melody. The ex.
cellent work of Sir William Jones on Oriental poetry difclofes part of the
treafures to be found in this language. In general the Perfian literature
approaches: nearer to the European in folid good fenfe, and clearnefs of
thought and expreffion, than that of any other Aliatic nation; as the
language itfelf has been long known to bear a ftreng affinity to the Ger.
man, though foftened by the long ufage of a polifhed people. One of
the oldelt remains of Perfian literature is the famous Sha Nama, or hif.
tory of kings, along heroic poem of Ferdufi. Sadi, an excellent and
entertaining moralift, writes in profe mingled with verfe, like feveral of
the Icelandic fagas.
Hafiz is the Anacreon of the caft, and his tomb is venerated in the vi-
cinity of Shiraz, being itfelf the chofen fhrine of parties of pleafure,
who proceed thither to enjoy the delicious fituation, and offer libations
of the rich Shirazian wine to the memory of their favourite bard, a
fplendid copy of whofe works is chained to his monument. But the
fciences in general are little cultivated by the Perfians, who are loft in
abje& fuperitition, and fond believers in aftrology ; a proud fophillry
which counects the little brief deftiny of man with the vat rotation of
innumerable funs and worlds. '
Epvucation.] ‘The education of the modern Perfians is chiefly mili
tary ; and their grofs flatterics, and obliquity of expreffion, evince that
they have totally forgotten the noble fyflem of their arceltors, who in
the firlt place taught their children to {peak truth. ‘
Cities.] The capital city of modern Perfia is Ifpahan. Including
the fuburbs, its circuit is computed by Chardin * at about twenty-four
® Chardin, tom: iii,
miles,
miles, and th
derud, whick
wards the nor
fome mounta
another ftrean
the Seine at |
{nows, in the
walls are of |
narrow, devio
market, the pi
the public batl
fuburb of Lull
nians §=The e
fan towns anc
This capital, ¢
that a Perfian r
fand houfes wey
gansin 1722,
The fecond ¢
vifited and defc
afertile valley,
bounded on all ;
four miles, furre
with round tow;
brick ; and befe
The mofque of
Hafiz is on the ]
the foot of the m
aremarkable ch;
houfes with gar
regent Kerim, t
leading to parter
houring fields ar
in May, and endi
mutton excellent,
of Duth Titan, 3
manufactory ; bu
Kerman, copper
Butheer, fupplies
delicious, particul
ar; and the bool
other warblers, de
Having thus br
hall be mentioned
with thofe of weft
and populous tow
the fide of a hill Tt.
of the inhabitants,
fouth of Perfia.
is fuppofed to co
nanst. It mutt nd
Georgia has effes
PERSIA. ‘464
miles, andthe inhabitants at 600,000. It ftandson the fmall river Zen-
derud, which rifes in the mountains of Yaiabat, three days journey to-
wards the north ; but Abas the Great, at a prodigious expence pierced
: {ome mountains about thirty leagues from Ifpahan, and introduced
8; another ftream, fo that the Zenderud was as large during the {pring as
p the Seine at Paris in the winter; for in that feafon the melting of the
: frows, in the high range of mountains, greatly fwelled the river. The
d walls are of earth, a: ill repaired, with eight gates, and the ftreets
4 narrow, devious, an-l badly paved. But the royal fquare, and its gre
. market, the palace of the Sefi, and thofe of the grandees, the mofques,
at the public baths, nd other edifices, are for the moft part fplendid. ‘The
é {vburb of Iulfa, or Yulfa, is very large, and poffeffed by the Arme-
ck nians. The environs of If{pahan are pleafant, and, like moft other Per-
ine fan towns and cities, diverfified by the neighbourhood of mountains.
he This capital, after the vifit of Chardin, was greatly reduced, infomuch
ac that a Perfian merchant afferted to Mr. Hanway that not above five thou-
= fand houfes were inhabited, having been taken and plundered by the Af-
a ans in 1722.
—" ; The fond city, at leaft in fame, is Shiraz, which has been recently
ely vifited and defcribed. This capital of Farfittan, or Perfis, is fituated in
and afertile valley, about twenty-fix miles in length and twelve in breadth,
bounded on all fides by lofty mountains: the circuit of the city is about
ed four miles, {urrounded with a wall twenty-five feet high, and ten thick,
ithe with round towers at the ditance of eighty paces. ‘lhe city is built of
un brick ; and before it is a great fquaré, witha park-of miferable artillery.
The mofque of the late Kerimis {plendid but unfinifhed. The tomb of
Hafiz is on the N.E. fide, about two miles diflant from the walls ; and at
rated the foot of the mountains, in the fame direction, is the tomb of Sadi, with
F the aremarkable channel tor water hollowed in the r@gk. Many fummer
| me houfes with gardens, in the vicinity of Shiraz, were built by the late
rae regent Kerim, the plantations being avenues of cyprefs and fycamore, |
er leading to parterres of flowers, and refrefhed with fountains. The neigh-
Ger. houring fields are fertile in rice, wheat and barley, the harveft beginning
he in May, and ee the middle of July. Provifions are cheap, and the
hife mutton excellent. "Che famous horfes of Fars now yield greatly to thofe
and of Dufh Ttan, a province to the S. W. At Shiraz there is a glafs
al of manufactory ; but woollen goods and filks are brought from Yezd and
Kerman, copper from Tauriz, fword-blades from Kom. Abu Shehar, or
7s Butheer, fupplies Indian articles, ‘The climate of this celebrated city is
ie delicious, opeier st § in the fpring, when numerous flowers perfume the
i a air; and the boolbu , or oriental nightingale, the goldfinch, linnet, and
ak 6 other warblers, delight the ear *.
she Having thus briefly defcribed the two moft celebrated cities, the others
fh te hall be mentioned in a geographical progrefs from the north, beginning
pittry with thofe of weftern Portia, ‘TefMliz, the capital of Georgia, is a large
os al and populous town, but meanly built, rifing from the river Kur along
the fide of a hill +. ‘here are fine {prings of hot water, a favourite refort
ofthe inhabitants. ‘The chief trade is in furs, fent to Turkey and the
fouth of Perfia. The prefent circuit is about two Englith miles, and it
isfuppofed to contain 20,000 inhabitants, more than half being Arme-
nians ft. It muft not be forgotten that during the late confufion in Perfia,
uding Georgia has effected at lealt a temporary independence,’ fupported by
four
mili
that
o in
* Franklin, paffin, + Tournefort, ti, 235. t Ellis, Memoir, p. 49.
3 Ruffia ;
milesy
PERSIA.
462
Ruffia; fo that the dominion of prince Heraclius is only nominally in.
ithi rfian boun :
ey en ‘ooats a place of noted ftrength on the Cafpian fea,
but was taken by Peter the Great of Ruffia, and afterwards by Ca.
tharine II. in 1780. Gmelin vifited this city a few years before, and
defcribes it-as fituated on the fide of a mountain, extending almoft to
the fea. The fhores are unfit for anchorage, fo that’ there is little com.
merce, except in land with Ghilan principally in faffron, The gardens
near the town are productive of excellent grapes, and moft kinds of
-European fruits. ee
the Turkith frontier, ftands the city of Erivan, of
Plea iegarioy and the capital of Perfian Armenia, but the houfes
are meanly built, like mott of thofe in Perfia *, Provifions are plentiful,
and good wine is produced in the neighbourhood. After repeated
tefts with the Turks, the Perfians have remained matters of Erivan
doce 1635. Not far to the S.W. is the celebrated Armenian monatter
of the Th: := Churches: and the noted mount Ararat, which may be
regarded as a kind of frontier between the Turkifh and Perfian do.
aisloas rifes about thirty miles to the fouth of Erivan. rae
The province of Aderbijan contains few places of note except Tebriz,
er Tauriz, a confiderable city, which was however greatly injured by an
earthquake toward the beginning of the laft century. — bazars, or
market places, and other public erat are d and {pacious; and
it is {aid that the great {quare has held thirty t oufand men ae up in
order of battle. In the neighbourhood there are quarries of white marble;
d there was a mine o gold, now abandoned; but copper is {till
“ ught. Being fituated on the weft fide of the great Caucafian maf
of inasntelin on which the {now remains for nine months of the year,
the climate is extrqmely cold, but dry and ite Ne
The Cafpian provinces uf Ghilan and Mazendran pre r ee pit ;
Rafht and Sari. The former, though the refidence of an independent
Khan has neither walls nor gates, but is the feat of confiderable com.
merce and the number of houfes may amount to two thoufand. The
alace of the Khan was compofed of feveral large pavilions, arranged
: he form of a {quare, and communicating with each other by hand.
fom leries. In the midft- was a garden with fountains, and behind
mel haram with another garden, the apartments being richly fur.
nithed with tapeftry, mirrors, and other elegant articles. Raiht is the
fta le of the filk, which is produced in great abundance . - t0-
ina hn eee of Gn Kase ot Masedn, i of Kel
i chraff, a favo \
—_ “fplent Fue and ardent have however become ruinous
Heng the eoeusotion de the §. W pte tg a {mall city on
ing towards the S.W.,
Pico po grew falt defert, me _ by ne ; - he
W., Chover or Khavar, with a pafs of t ame name, , wae
azendran, which is prefer: the p
hy te ay dy Som or Kums — ie by pec apd
ivelli ide plain, with a hill in the m
in travelling from Sava paffed a wide plain, aa happy rm
the mountain of the Talifman. He reprefents | fom hag yin
i mountains, and near a river whic
ont Prrgbicetiats eran were computed at fifteen thoufand ; and the
@ Tournefort, ii 255,
chief
t The caufey
ou the S, the
chief manu
Here are th
Towards
Ahwaz, or
cient Sufa ¢
ef {mall acc
The celeb
factories of |
a port oppo:
Ormus and
by the name
declined ; an
Garak. Th
is Buffora.
In the {ma
formerly ace
fent of the Pp
- the oppofite c
with the affift
The provir
late authors r
belong to the
ture of carpets
ef carpets are:
In paffing t
proper to ob
of Hindoftan ;
fia, being hew
. paflage betwee
The domini
Corafan, T:
many rivulets,
the traveller, f;
country of ¢
Maintains a re
Some Europe:
coarfe {trong
city was the q
this rank to th
Muza, his fup
erfia.
Epirices,
fplendid edifice
A. ref in Maze
with many bea
cinity ; but in
try of mounta
repair +.
Manuracr
of this great co
l reach E
® Forfler, ti, ay
of
Cafpi
itals,
pa
e com
The
ranged
hand
behind
ly fur.
the
is pros
ace
pas the
ruinous
city on
A to the
branch
he pal-
in, who
e calle
derable
in the
and the
chiel
PERSIA. 463
chief manufactures were white earthen ware, foap, and {word blades.
Here are the fuperb tombs of Sefi I. and Abas II. '
Towards the A arkith frontier, one of the largeft rivers of Perfia, thé
Ahwaz, or ancient Choafpes, flows into the Tigris ; but though the an-
cient Sufa decorated its banks, the modern towns of Kiab and Ahwaz are
ef {mall account.
The celebrated Perfian gulph has been always more remarkable for the
factories of foreigners, than for native eftablifhments. Bander Abaffi was
a port oppofite to the ifle of Ormus, or rather on the toaft between
Ormus and Kifhmifh, or Kifhma, and is now more commonly known
by the name of Gombroon. The trade, once confiderable, is now greatly
declined ; and even the Dutch left it, and fettled in the ifle of Rarek or
Garak. The French Indian commerce has failed ; and the Englifh ftaple
is Buffora.
In the {mall ifle of Ormus, at the entrance of the Perfian gulph, was
formerly a celebrated mart of Portuguefe trade, eftablifhed there by con-
fent of the petty king of the country, who alfo poffeffed fome diftri€ts on
. the oppofite coatt. But the Po-tuguefe were expelled by Abas the Great,
with the affiftance of the Englifh, A.D. 1622.
The province of Kerman contains a city of the fame name ; but fome
late octhoss reprefent Yezd as the capital, though generally fuppofed to
belong to the province of Fars.- This city is calahseted for the manufac-
ture of carpets, and ftuffs made of camel hair: but the chief manufactures
of carpets are-in the fertile vale of Segiftan, in eaftern Perfia.
In paffing to the eaftern divifion, or kingdom of Candahar, it may be
proper to obferve that Cabul, the metropolis, is fituated within the limits
of Hindoftan ; but Candahar is by D’Anville and others afcribed to Per-
fia, being hewever a city of {mall fize, and chiefly memorable as the grand
_ paflage between thefe extenfive empires.
The dominion of Zemaun Shah comprifes a confiderable portion of
Corafan. The city of Herat ftands on a f{pacious plain interfected with
many rivulets, which, with the bridges, villages, and plantations, delight
the traveller, fatigued in pafling the eaftern deferte of Afganiftan, or the
country of the Afgans*. It is a f{mallér city than Candahar, but
maintains a refpectable trade, and provifions are cheap and abundant.
Some European goods pafs hither from the gulph. of Perfta; but
coarfe {trong woollens are manufactured in the aliacens diftri&s. This
city was the capital of Corafan, till the firft Sefi of Perfia transferred
this rank to the northern city of Mefhid, which contained the tomb of
Muza, his fuppofed anceftor, and one of the twelve great Imams of
Perfia.
Epirices.] In the recent defolation of the country many of the moft
fplendid edifices are become ruinous, and among others the palace of
A.‘ref in Mazendran. The late Kerim has however decorated Shiraz
with many beautiful buildings. He alfo improved the roads in the vi-
cinity ; but in Perfia, which may, as Chardin obferves, be called a coun-
try of mountains, the roads are not only difficult, but kept in bad
repair t.
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. ] The manufaétures and commerce
of this great country may be faid to be annihilated, though a few carpets
ill reach Europe at extravagant prices. Even the trade with the
® Forfler, ti, 115.
+ The caufey of Abas the Great is a nuble monument, extending about 900 B. miles
ou the S. the Cafpian, Hagway, i. 198,
q Ruflians
Se ee
464 PERSIA.
Ruffians on the Cafpian is of {mall account, confifting of falt and naphtha
- from Baku, and fome filk from Shirvan, called by the Ruffians Shamakia
but chiefly from Ghilan, where there is a Ruffian conful at Enfelj Sr
Sinfili, The Perfian merchants alfo bring goods to Balfruhh, the largeit
town in Mazendran, where they trade with thefe of Ruflias
That intelligent but prolix traveller, Chardin, has given an ample view
of the Perfian manufactures and commerce in the feventeenth century,
Embroidery was carried to the greateft perfection, in cloth, filk, and
leather. Earthenware was made throughout Perfia; but the beit at
Shiraz, Mefhid, Yezd; and particularly beautiful at Zarand, which
equalled the Chinefe porcelain in fineneft and tranfparency: the fabric
was fo hard as to produce lafting mortars for grinding various {ub.
ftances *, That of Yezd, which Chardin places in Kirman, was noted
for its lightnefs. ‘The manufacture of leather and fhagreen. were alfo
excellent + 3 and they excelled in braziery, ufing the tin of Sumatra to
line the veffels. The bows of Perfia were the moft efteemed of all in
the eaft, and the fabres finely damafked, ina manner which Chardin thinks
inimitable in Europe ; for, not contented with their own mines of fteel,
they imported it*from India, and wrought it in a particular manner
defcribed by our author. Their razors, and other works in fleel, were
alfo laudable ; and they excelled in cutting precious ftones, and dyeing
bright and lafting colours. Their cotton and woollen clothe, and thofe
made of goats and camels’ hair, with their filks, brocades, and velvets,
were fuperior ‘manufactures. The carpets, as already mentioned, were
chiefly from the province of Segiftan ; and Chardin adds, that in his time
they were called Turkey carpets, becaufe they were brought to Europe
through that country ; and were valued by the number of threads in
the inch, being fometimes fourteen or fifteen. The ftufismade of camels’
hair were chiefly from Kirman, and thofe of goats’ hair from the moun.
tains of Mazendran, but the cotton cloths principally from Hindoltan;
and the fabric of broad cloth was unknown and fupplied by a kind of felt,
The king himfelf was engaged in merchandize of filk, bzocades,
carpets, and jewels; probably with as little advantage to the country
as the royal monopolies in Spain. The ftandard native merchandize
was «lk of various qualities. T’o Hindoftan were fent tobacco, pre.
ferved fruits, efpecially. dates, wines, horfes, porcelain, and leather of
different colours, ‘To ‘Turkey, tobacco and kitchen utenfils: to Rullia,
manufactured filks. Such were formerly the manufactures and com.
merce of this extenfive country.
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate. — Face of the Country.—Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers. — Lakes,
— Mountains.— Deferts. — Forefis. — Botany. —Zoology.— Mineralogy.
— Mineral Waters. — Natural Curivfities.— Ifles.
ERSIA has been faid to be a country of three climates ;
Cliath Pp but even in the fouth the high mountains contribute to
allay the extreme heat. The northern provinces on the Cafpian are com.
* Chardin, iv, 243,
t The proper term is /agrin, from the Perfian word Sagri, Chard, iv, 246.
paratively
aratively «
y the mo
kingdom C
continues ti
to May hig
ferene, refre
the winds a
thunder or
fpring. Ne
{uffocates th
FACE OF
tains ; and
pi Pag
reipect it y
the north,
common ; an
other trees o
ih {eale,
ivifion into |
in all ages, ¢
deftinies,
SolL AND
and even the 1
clay ; both u
of the Perfian:
however mutt
thofe in the nc
The mott c
rice is a more
delicious of fo
watered provi
{mall, and the
uled, to form
retain the wat
mingled with e
Rivers. ]
fcarcely at an
the capital of,
river, The ri
{tes a fouthers
tion with the E
thefe conjuné
now, according,
aru Sou, or t
moft confiderab
rom the r,
courfe fall into
the Rud or Di
of Mekran are
hid, which, cc
town by which
fequence, excep
Indoftan,
rope
ds in
mels’
oun-
{tan 5
felt.
ades,
mntry
nize
uflia,
com.
PERSIA. 465
paratively cold and moift ; the exhalations from that fea being arrefted
Fy the mountains to the fouth of Mazendran. In the centre of the
kingdom Chardin obferves that the winter begins in November, and
continues till March, commonly fevere, with ice and fhow. From March
to May high winds are frequent ; but thence to September the air is
ferene, refrefhed by breezesin the night. From September to November
the winds agen prevail, In the centre and fouth the air is generally dry,
thunder or lightning are uncommon, but hail is often deftrudiive in the
fpring. Near the Perfian gulf the hot wind called Samiel fometimes
fuffocates the unwary traveller.
Face OF THE COUNTRY. ] Perfia may be called a country of moun-
tains; and where great plains occur they are generally defert. The
moft remarkable feature of the country is the want of rivers; in which
refpect it yelds to all the Afiatic regions, fave Arabia. Except in
the north, and fome parts of the weftern mountains, even trees are un-
common ; and the refpe& paid by the Perfian monarchs to planes, and
other trees of diffufe fhade, is no matter of furprize. Confidered in a
. ere fcale, one of the moft fingular features of the country is its
1
vifion into two parts by deferts and mountains : a circumftance which
in all ages, as already explained, has greatly influenced its hiftory and
deftinies,
‘SoIL AND AGRICULTURE.] The foil may be regarded as unfertile,
and even the valleys are fometimes fandy and ftony, or of ’a hard dry
clay ; both unproductive if not well watered. Hence the chief induftry
of the Perfian-farmer is employed in watering his lands. Thefe remarks
however muit be reftri&ted to the central and fouthern previnces; for
thofe in the north are fufficiently rich and fertile.
The moft common ite of Perfia is wheat, which is excellent; but
rice is a more univerfal aliment, and regarded by the Perfians as the moft
delicious of food *. It is generally produced in the northern or beft
watered provinces. Barley and millet are alfo fown. The plough is
{mall, and the ground merely fcratched. After which the fpade is alfo
ufed, to form the ground into fquares, with ledges or little banks to
retain the water. ‘The dung is chiefly human, and that of pidgeons
mingled with earth, and preferved for two years to abate its heat.
Rivers.] The noble ftreams of the Euphrates and the Tigris can
fearcely at any period be confidered as ftri€tly Perfian, though Ctefiphon,
the capital of the Parthian monarchy, and Seleucia, ftood on the latter
river, The river of Ahwaz rifes in the mountains of Elwend, and pur-
fues a fouthern courfe till one branch enters the Tigris above its junc-
tion with the Euphrates, while the main ftream flows into the eftuary of
thefe conjun& rivers, This feems to be the Gyndes of Herodotus,
now, according to D’Anville, called the Zeindeh, and by the Turks
Karu Sou, or the Black river. The courfe of thia ftream, one of the
moft confiderable in Perfia, little exceeds 400 B. miles.
From the range of mountains on the N.E. feveral rivers of fhort
courfe fall into the Perfian gulf, one of the moft confiderable being
the Rud or Divrud, which joins the mouth of that ult. The rivers
of Mekran are of more confiderable courfe, as the Krenk and Mek-
hid, which, conjoined, form the river of Mend, fo called from a
town by which it pafles. The Haur and the Araba are of {mall con-
fequence, except that the latter ferves as a nominal boundary towards
Hindoftan,
@ Chardin, iv, 292.
Hh In
— Se soso ose
sc sant aati a te TRICE AL A A
PERSIA.
466
In the N.E. the large river of Gihon, better ftyled Amy, to avoid
the confufed fimilarity with another large river, the Sition, rather be.
longs to Independent Tatary, with its numerous tributary ftreams 3 ex.
cept the Margus or Margab, called alfo the Mourgab, which . however
in the opinion of D’Anville and La Rochette, is rather loft in the
fands. To the W., the river of Tedjen or Tedyen, the ancient Ochuye
flows into the Caffian; which alfo receives many {mall ftreams fom
the mountains of Mazendran. D?’Anville affigns a very confiderable
courfe to the river of Kizil Ozen, or Seefid Rud, which he derives
from the mountain of Elwend, not far to the N. of Hamadan ; fo that
by a very winding courfe to the Cafpian, its length doubles what is af.
figned in more recent maps. This river is the Mardus of antiquity, and
muft be the Swidura of Gmelin, rifing on the confines of Turkey, and
falling into the fea below Langorod *. It produces numerous pike, carp,
and other kinds of fifh, efteemed by the Perfians: Gmelin fays that it
abounds in fturgeons.
Farther to the N. the large river Aras, the ancient Araxes, falls into
the Kur or Cyrus, both rifing in the Caucafian mountains, and purfuing
a courfe of extreme rapidity. The Kur abounds with fturgeon and
‘other large fifth; and at its mouth are feveral ifles, liable to be over.
flowed in the {pring f.
The central rivers of Perfia remain to be mentioned, moft of which
are foon loft in fandy deferts, but deferve attention from their hiftorical
celebrity. ‘The Zenderud rifes in the weftern chain of Elwend, and
pafles by Ifpahan, beyond which capital its courfe is foon loft in
the fand: this river feems to have been the fecond Gyndes of the
ancients.
But the moft important river in this quarter is that which paffes be.
tween Shiraz and Iftakar, or the celebrated ruins of Perfepolis, called
the Bundamir, and fuppofed to be an ancient Araxes. This celebrated
river flows into a falt lake called Baktegan, and which alfo receives a
confiderable ftream from the N.E. called the Kurent. Between thefe
two rivers a branch of the mountains of Elwend extends S.E., on the
weftern fide of which ftand the ruins of Perfepolis.
The largeft and moft remarkable inland river is the Himmend of the
province of Segiftan, which rifes from two widely feparated fources, one
in the mountains of Gaur, a part of the Hindoo Koh, and the other
far to the S. from the mountains of Gebelabad. Thefe ftreams join not
far to the E, of Boft, whence the river purfues a wefterly ctrl, and,
according to the account of Otter §, divides into many branches, which
are loft in the central deferts of Perfia. Our geographers, on the
i fuppofe that the Hinmend paffes by Zareng into the fea of
Zereh.
Laxes.] Among the lakes of Perfia, the moft confiderable beyond
all comparifon is the Aria Palus of antiquity. This large lake is in the
weftern part of the province of Segiftan, and is called in the French
maps ‘the lake of Zeré, from a village of that name near its weftern
extremity ; but in the Englifh the fea of Durra, from another villa
fituated on a‘river at the diftance of twenty miles from the lake: t
* Découvertes Ruffes, ii. 373. See alfo Hanway, i. 179, and 275, where this river is
called Sefietrod. ‘There is a bar at the entrance, but a confiderable depth within,
+ Gmelin, ib. 236.
t This river La Rochette, in his elegant map of the marches of Alexander, fuppoles
was the Medus, and perhaps a Mardus of the ancients,
§ Voyage en Turkie ct en Perie. Paris, 1748, 2 vole, 12mo, tome i. 217,
length
length is ‘th
is freth and {
The falt ]
as already r
prefented iff
about ten; |
information.
Far to the
town near its
Biles in le
rably impreg
markabie: iy
B. miles to tk
{mall ifle in th
nites of Ptole
Mountain
. cularly of the
their fide bra
been one of tk
it cannot be ey
in this topic, 2
PE P
niking objects
The fit obj
be to trace the
rate defcription
of Ghilan and
S.E. of the Ca
The fouther
as running paral
diftance a ;
A third ran
inthe fame dir
where it is con
range of mountd
pein ri
fuppofed to be
from Media t.
Van, for mount
of a wide plain,
rage of Caucaf
etzardara, g
of Fars; and o
called Koh Zerd
The province d
Kerman by moun
from the §. of t
connected with
Nor are there an
range, called Mec
Kerman; while ¢
* Chardin, ii,
+ See the Pe
3 D'Anville,
1
o
ry
ne
8,
m
dle
es
lat
af.
and
and
Tp,
t it
into
bing |
and
vers
thich
Drical
, and
ft in
f the
es bee
called
brated
bives a
thefe
on the
of the
8, one
other
bin not
» and,
which
pn the
fea of
D nd
a
French
eftern
villa
est
fiver is
fuppoles
length
PERSIA. 407
length is thirty leagues, by a day’s journey in breadth; and the water
is freth and full of th, sa ale 2 : =
The falt lake ‘of Baktegan, about fifty miles E, of Shiraz, receives,
as already mentioned, the rivers of Kuren and Fundamir. It is re-
prefented ifl the maps as about forty B. miles in length, and the breadth
about ten; but the imperfection of Perfian giegeuts affords no farther
information.
Far to the N.W. appears the large lake of Urmia, fo called from a -
town near its fouthern extremity. ‘This lake is reprefented as about fifty
B. miles in length, by about half the breadth, and is faid to be confide-
rably impregnated with falt, and the neighbouring mountains were re-
markable as the feats of the affaffins. The lake of Erivan, about 120
B. miles to the N., is about twenty-five leagues in circumference, with a
{mall ifle in the middle; it abounds in carp and trout; and is the Lych-
nites of Ptolemy *.
Mountains. ] The precife and exaét knowledge of mountains, parti-
_cularly of the dire€tion and extent of the chief ranges, which, with
their fide branches, often refemble the leading bone of a fifh, having
been one of the moft recent improvements even in European geography ;
it cannot be expected that the Oriental fhould afpire to much exactnefs
in this topic, and in the prefent inftance early travellers are unanimous in
reprefenting Perfia as a pa country, fo blind were they to the moft
ftriking objects around them +
The firft objet, even in a fhort account of the Perfidn mountains, mutt
be to trace the direétion of the chief chains. It is clear, from the accu-
rate defcription of: Gmelin, that the Caucafian ridge extends to the weft
of Ghilan and fouth of Mazendran, till it expire in Corafan, on the
S.E. of the Cafpian fea.
The fouthernmoft chain, of great height, is defcribed by Mr. Franklin
as running parallel with the Perfian gulf, N.W. and S.E., at about the
ditance of 50 B. miles.
A third range of mountains, of very great height, feems to continue
inthe fame direction with this laft, to the §&. of the lake of Urmia,
where it is connected with the Caucafian ridge. This is the grandeft
range of mountains in Perfia. ’
: arallel ridge on the W., called by the Turks Aiagha Tag, is
fuppofed to be the Zagros of the ancients, which feparated Adtyria
from Mediat. ‘This weftern chain feems to extend to the lake of
Van, for mount Ararat is reprefented as ftanding folitary in the midft
of a wide plain, and from proximity might rather be claffed with the
rangeof Caucafus.
eh or the thoufand mountains, form a branch on the north
of Fars; and one part of it, which gives rife to the river of If{pahan, is
called Koh Zerdeh, or the Yellow mountain.
The province of Fars is reprefented by fome writers as feparated from
Kerman by mountains ; but the real barrier is a defert of fand, extending
from the S. of the lake of Baktegan to the proximity of Zarang, and
conneéted with the great defert which divides Perfia into two parts,
Nor are there any mountains of confequence in the eaft of Fars, low
range, called Meder by D’Anville, paffes N.E. through the heart of
Kerman; while that country.is divided from Mekran by a range in the
* Chardin, ii, 292, Tournef. ii. 256, ,
+ See the Perfia among the Elzevir Republics, 1638, 12mo.
$ D'Anville, Anc. Geog. ii. 463.
Hha3a fame
468 PERSIA.
dire&ti alled by D’Anville Kofez. Some other namelefg ranges
~ ‘ohn the fy dire&tion, that neareft Hindoftan being called
hette the Lakhee mountains.
icf ad the N. the mountains of Wulli extend from the neighbour.
hood of Shatzan acrofs to the lake of Vachind, and may thus ‘be con.
fidered as forming one range with that on the N. of eckran, Called
Gebelabad by La Rochette. This range however expires in the great
2 he S. of Zarang. a*
pale of Segiftan a ridge N. and S. called Soliman Koh, or the
mountains of Soliman. Itis probable that there are mountains of con.
fiderable height on the N. and W. of the fea of Zurra ; one of which is
called Berthek and another Ouk, the former being noted for a fire tem.
ple, the refort of the Guebers. ;
Deserts.] The deferts muft not be paffed in complete filence,
though few words may fuffice. On the ealt of Tigris, lat. 33°, a con.
fiderable defert commences, which is pervaded by the river of Ahwaz,
and extends to the N. of Skufter. This defert may be about 140 B. miles .
i . to W., and the breadth about 80. ‘It is now chiefly pof.
(eed by the wandering tribe of Arabs called Beni Kiab, a people who,
like the defert, are not alittle obfcure *.
The great faline defert extends from the neighbourhood of Kom
to that of the fea of Zurra, ina line from E. to W. of about 400 B. miles ;
the breadth from N. to S. may be 250: but in the latter quarter it may
be faid to join with the great defert of Kerman by the Nauben Dejian,
which extends about 350 miles. Thefe two extenfive deferts may thus
be confidered as ftretching N.W. and S.E. for a {pace of about 700
miles, by a medial breadth of about 200 (even not including in the
length other 200 miles of the defert of Mekran) ; thus interfeéting this
wide empire into two nearly equal portions, as before explained. This
vaft extent is impregnated with nitre and other falts, which taint the
neighbouring lakes and rivers; but its natural hiltory has not been in.
veitigated with the precifion of modern knowledge. In the S. of Me.
kran, and towards the Indus, are other deferts of great extent.
A third great defert, that of Karakum, or t e Black Sand, forms
the northern boundary of aoe and modern Pertia; but the defcrip.
i operly belongs to Tatary.
taesoeh. The Perfian forefts iss unhappily reftriéted to a few fpots
in Corafan, the mountains of Mazendran and Ghilan, and thofe towards
Kurdiftan. But timber is cote aad Mazendran, which thence
i ignifying the land of axes. :
ROBARY: |. Do wccunan account of the indigenous vegetables of
Perfia yet remains a defideratum in the f{cience of botany ; the pro.
du@ions of the eaftern and fouth-eaitern provinces are almoft veo
unknown to us, and the flight acquaintance that we have with thole
on the fhores of the Cafpian and the frontiers of Roffia is for the
moft part derived from the fhort and imperfect notices that occur in
the travels of Pallas and Gmelin in the neighbourhood of the Caf.
Lae 4 confiderable part of the Perfian territory, efpecially on the fide
of Great Tatary, appears to be occupied by falt deferts: thefe are for
the moit part deftituteof trees, and {upport hardly any plants, except
fuch of the faline fucculent kind as are alfo found on the fea-fhore.
Of the high mountains, as far as they have been examined, we are
# See Niebuhr; but this tribe feems rather to the S. of the defert.
iI only
only informe
part the fam
The plant
are better kr
pofleffion of,
that are uft
ridges are fo
while the loy
trees, oaks,
is fo effentia|
abundance ;
moft efteemed
Perfia, and h
Thefe are the
and apricot.
‘ wild, are met
warm fand on
culture of the
luxuriance ; a
common culti
weeping’ willo:
traéts abound
the fine Perfian
of this country
abundance and
cially in the eye
thefe are the je
and the tulip a
ZooLoey. ]
beautiful even j
arelefs diftingui
taller than the §
licatey and the
borious, lively, a
not fo-well forme
Mules are alfo in
but a breed of
the hair being {m
The camel is al
dran, where the
poifon. The Pe
doftan, where th
are fearce, fave i
appendage fomet
bottom in the fo
northern province
The few forefts
mountains prefent
¢ ferocious an
boar, the lion in
ome accounts, t
the Cafpian. T
and chakal belon{
vay
ailes
pof-
who,
Kom
iles :
may
ejian,
thus
t 700
n the
g this
This
nt the
belt ile
Me-
forms
e(crip-
{pots
wards
thence
bles of
€ pro
wholl
thot
ror the
cur in
e Cals
he fide
are for
except
re.
we are
only
PERSIA. 469
only informed in general that their vegetable inhabitants are for the moft
part the fame ‘as thofe bbferved on the Alps of Swifferland and Italy.
The plants of the hills and cultivated parts adjoining the Cafpian fea
are better known to us, and from the few whofe names we are already in
poffeffion of, it is eafy and reafonable to infer the prefence of many more
that are ufually obferved to accompany them. On the mountainous
ridges are found the cyprefs, the cedar, and feveral other kinds of pines,
while the lower hills and {cars of rock are fhaded and adorned with lime
trees, oaks, acacias, and chefnuts; the fumach, whofe aftringent wood:
is fo effential to the arts of dyeing'and tanning, grows here in vatt
abundance; and the manna afh-tree is fcarcely lefs common. The
moft efteemed of the cultivated fruits of Europe are truly indigenous in
Perfia, and have probably hence been diffufed over the whole wett.
Thefe are the fig, the pomegranate, the mulberry, the almond, peach,
and apricot. Orange trees alfo of an enormous fize, and apparently
‘ wild, are met with in the fheltered parts of the mountains; and the deep
warm fand on the fhore of the Cafpian is peculiarly favourable to the
culture of the citron and the liquorice. The vine grows here in great
luxuriance ;_and farther to the fouth both cotton and {ugar are aiticlee of
common cultivation. Poplars of unufual fize and beauty, and the
weeping willow, border the courfe of the ftreams, and the marfhy
tracts abound with a peculiar kind of rufh that forms the material of
the fine Perfian matting. ‘The ornamental fhrubs and herbaceous plants
of this country are but little known; four of them however, from their
abundance and beauty, give an air of elegance to the country, efpe-
cially in the eyes of an European, fuperior to that of any other region ;
thefe are the jafmine and the blue and fcarlet anemona in the thickets,
and the tulip and ranunculus in the paftures.
Zootocy.] According to Chardin, the Perfian horfes are the moft
beautiful even in the eaft ; but in {peed they yield to the Arabian, which
arelefs diftinguithed by elegance of form. ‘The Perfian fteeds are rather
taller than the faddle horfes in England; the head fmall, the legs de-
licate, and the body well proportioned ; of a mild difpofition, very la-
borious, lively, and fwift. T’atarian horfes are alfo ufed, of lower ftature and
not fo‘well formed as the Perfian, but more capable of enduring fatigue *.
Mules are alfo in confiderable reque% ; and the afs refembles the European,
but a breed of this animal is brought from Arabia, which is excellent,
the hair being {mooth, the head high, while it moves with fpirit and agility.
The camel is alfo common, but not admitted into the province of Mazen-
dran, where they eagerly eat the leaves of box, though to them a rank
poifon, The Perfian cattle refemble the European, except towards Hin-
doftan, where they are marked by the hunch on the fhoulders. ‘Swine
are fearce, favein the N.W. provinces. Of the large tailed fheep that
appendage fometimes weighs more than thirty sanity enlarging at the
bottom in the form of a heart. The flocks are moft numerous in the
northern provinces of Erivan, or the Perfian part of Armenia and Balk.
The few forefts contain abundance of deer and antelopes; while the
mountains prefent wild goats. Hares are common in the numerous wattes.
The ferocious animals are chiefly concealed in the foreits, as the bear and
boar, the lion in the weftern parts, with the leopard, and, according to
fome accounts, the {mall or common tiger. Seals occur on the rocks of
the Cafpian. The wild afs is found in the central deferts; but the hyena
and chakal belong to the fouthern provinces. ‘The feas abound with fifh
* Chardin, iv. 72.
Hh3 of
470 PERSIA.
ious defcriptions ; the Cafpian difplays fturgeon and fome kindred
ie ‘with we and albedo kind of carp. Figeon are pastioularly
numerous; and the partridges are uncommonly darge: ai hier
The boolbul, or oriental nightingale, enlivens the fyring ih ‘ varied
fong. The Perfians have been one manele & y tame beatts of prey,
i ards, panthers, and ou in
» Pees A LG fh of this extesiive country feems
neither various nor important, shouR the numerous mountain: probabl
abound with unexplored treafures. The lead mines of Kerman and Yezd
produce the duel iatiies of -filver. In the northern provinces there
are many mines of iron, but the metal is haréh and brittle. Copper is
chiefly found in the mountains of Mazendran and near Cafbin ; but is
brittle, and commonly mingled by the melters with a twentieth part of
ce Be pie a yet difcovered feems to be the turkoife, which
has indeed almoft ceafed to be regarded as fuch, being only bone or ivory
tinged with copper. There are two mines of this sald one
Nifhapour in Corafan, and another about four days journey uf the S,
the Cafpian, in the mountain called Feru zkoh. Pearls abouts 1 a8 is mn
known, in the Perfian gulf, efpecially near the ifles o Bap “eS He
Arabian fide. Some will weigh ty grains ; but thofe are efteeme
i i nto twelve grains,
a Bieedin bi saerina fulphur and a are found in the mountain of
Demavend, which he places on the fouth of Hyrcania of cae
Sometimes whole deferts are covered with fulphur, and o ae wit A t,
which near Cafhan is remarkably pure. Rock falt is ink plea He
han ; and in the dry climate of Kerman it is even employed in Mt mg,
MEDICAL WATERS. ] Medical waters of various wefainns x om
in this mountainous country ; but they are generally alike negle&ed by
a te eae r ak Among the chief natural curiofities mut
be named the fountains of naphtha, or pure rock | oil, in the sarin
hood of Baku, on the weftern coaft of the Cafpian, a ar’ Y in ‘
adjoining promontory of Afhberon. The land is dry an me : a a
there are feveral {mall ancient temples, in one of which, pede: e rn
large hollow cane is fixed in the ground, and from the en i i? a } ?
flame, feemingly more pure and gentle than that pandice by. ae
fpirits+. From an horizontal gap in an adjoining rock there alfo i
: cate round this place for above two miles has this Sureting
property, that, by taking up two or three inches of the pase Ki
applying a live coal, the part which is fo uncovered igi ‘ J
takes fire, almoft before the coal touches the earth : the aoe on 4
foil hot, but does not confume it, nor affect what is near it w y
f heat. :
_ Tf a cane or tube, even of paper, be fet about two Asai * hs
ground, confined and clofe with the earth below, and t ‘ ae
touched with a live coal and blown upon, immediately a pate ni
without hurting either the cane or paper, provided the 4 atin
with clay; and this method they ufe for ‘light in gp “9 ; Nii
have only the earth for the floor: three or four o gh a
canes will boil water in a pot, and thus they drefs t “ae gt
The flame may be extinguifhed in the fame manner as. that of {p
i, 268.
® Chardin, iv. 94. + Hanway, i. 2
wine,
in'the end of the
little to the acco
mixed with fand,
wells in an adjoini
mon product to t
rubles ¢.
moft remarkable ;
and, towards the o
expelled in 1765, ¢
nature; and far le
the coaft of the U
wine. The g
part is, the ft
naphtha, but |
“ Lime is |
the lame com:
covered to rece
three days the.
naphtha {pring
“ The chief
Wetoy, now ur
thence. The |
fometimes the {
woather is thick
’ often takes fire
fea in great qua
the fprings do n
oily Libdonce te
the mouth of th
that look as bi;
pe mane ou
ong opened forr
“ The people
drawing it off frc
or the heavier pa:
Itis unpleafant te
the Perfians, and
to boil their vid
findit burns beft
great Abundance,
dittance from thei
any accident by ff
“ There is alfo
much thinner co}
The Ruffians dri
an external applic
water, which boil
being impregnated
§ warm water is
The juttly cele
Isuxs.] The fe
* Hanway, i
3 Dec. des R
PERSIA. 471
wine. The ground is dry and ftony, and the more ftony any particular
part is, the ftronger and clearer is the flame; it {mells fulphureous, like
naphtha, but not very offenfive.
« Lime is burnt to great perfeGtion by means of this phenomenon ;
the flame communicating itfelf to any diftance where the earth is un-
covered to receive it. The flones muft be laid on one another, and in
three days the lime is completed.. Near this place brimftone is dug, and
naphtha fprings are found.
“ The chiet place for the black or dark grey naphtha is the {mall ifland
Wetoy, now uninhabited, except at fuch times as they take naphtha from
thence. The Perfians load it in bulk in their wretched veffels, fo that
fometimes the fea is covered with it for leagues together. When the
woather is thick and hazy the fprings boil up the higher ; and the naphtha
i ' often takes fire on the furface of the earth, and runs in a flame into the
h fea in great quantities, to a diftance almoft incredible. In clear weather
the fprings do not boil up above two or three feet. In boiling over, this
y oily fabilance takes fo {trong a confiftency, as by degrees almoft to clofe
f the mouth of the {pring ; fometimes it is quite clofed, and forms hillocks
1 that look as black as pitch: but the f{pring, which is refifted in one
ie lacey breaks out in another. Some of the f{prings which have not been
4 ing opened form a mouth of eight or ten feet diameter.
j “The people carry the naphtha by troughs into pits or refervoirs,
of drawing it off from one to another, leaving in the firft refervoir the water,
: or the heavier part, with which it is mixed when it iffues from the ipring:
it Itis unpleafant to the f{mell, and ufed moftly amongft the poorer fort of
ily the Perfians, and other neighbouring people, as we ufe oil in lamps, or
pa to boil their vituals, but it communicates a difagreeable tafte. They
a find it burns beft with a {mall mixture of afhes, and as they procure it in
by great abundance, every family is well fupplied. They keep it at a {mall
ditance from their houfes in earthen veffels, under ground, to prevent
any accident by fire, of which it is extremely fufceptible.
“ There is alfo a white naphtha on the peninfula of Apcheron, of a
much thinner confiftency ; but this is found only in fmall quantities.
The Ruffians drink it both as a cordial and a medicine, and alfo ufe it as
an external application. Not far from hence are alfo fprings of hot
water, which boil up in the fame manner as the naphtha, and very thick,
being impregnated with a blue clay; but it foon clarifies. Bathing in
this warm water is found to ftrengthen and procure a good appetite*.””
The juftly celebrated Kempfer had vifited thefe remarkable fprings
in the end of the feventeenth century +; and Gmelin, 1773, has added
little to the account of Hanway, except that the foil is a coarfe marle,
mixed with fand, and effervefcing with acids. There are many other
wells in an adjoining peninfula ; and the revenue arifing from this uncom-
us Nee to the khan of Baku was computed at forty thoufand
rubles t.
Isxs.] The few Perfian ifles in the fouthern gulf, among which the
moft remarkable are Ormuz, once famous, now abandoned; Kifhma;
and, towards the other extremity, Karek, from which the Dutch were
expelled in 1765, do not merit a particular defcription in a work of this
nature; and far lefs thofe in the Cafpian fea, the chief of which are on
the coaft of the Uzbeks.
* Hanway, i. 263, &e.
+ See his Amoen. Exot,
$ Dec. des Ruffes, ii, 213,
INDE.
( 473 )
INDEPENDENT TATARY. *
CHAPTER I.
‘GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Name. — Chief Divifions.— Progreffive Geography. — Connection with Little
“Bucharia, td Fede of the ancient and modern Geography of that
Country.
HE defcriptions already given in this volume of Afiatic Ruffia and
T the Chinefe empire comprife the far greater part of what geopra.
phers denominated Tartary, by a bs term applied to a country eX
ceeding all Europe in extent, and poffefled by various and diftin& nations
and races of men.
By repeated victories over the Eluts and Kalmuks of Mongolia, the
Chinefe dominion has been extended to the mountains of Belur, thus in.
cluding Little Bucharia ; while in the E. Mandfhusia remained fubjeé to
its fovereigns, who had become emperors of China.
Name. } The title of Independent Tatary becomes however unexcep.
tionable, when confined to the bounds of the prefent defcription, for the
Uzbeks and Kirgufes are of undoubted Tatar origin ; and their country
mutt ftill be regarded as independent of the great neighbouring powers,
China, Ruffia, and Perfia.
Extent.] The extent of territory poffeffed by thefe tribes may be
meafured from the Cafpian fea to the mountains o Belur, a {pace of not
lefs than 870 B. miles. From the mountains of Gaur in the fouth to the
Ruffian boundaries on the north of the defert of Iffim, may be near 1500
B. miles; but of this length a great part is defert. or
Divistons.] The chief divifions are the wide ftepps or barren plains in
the N., held by three hordes of Kirgufes, the Great, Middle, and Lefer;
with fome fmall Tatatic tribes near the fea of Aral. This portion was
anciently called Weftern Turkiftan ; the capital being Taraz, on a ftream
which flows into the Sirr, or Sihon, not far above Otrar, and which was
alfo fometimes denominated Turkiftan from the name of the et
To the S. of the mountains of Argun the land begins to fertilize alon
the courfe of the Sirr, Sirt, or Sihon, the Iaxartes of the ancients, alfo
called the river of Shafh from the chief territory ; and on the banks of its
tributary ftreams, which devolve from the Argun on th. N, and the Ak
‘Tau or White mountain on the S., while the river itfelf {prings from the |
mountains of Belur. Ilak and Shath, the moft northern provinces on the
Sihon, are followed by Fergana, and a aiftri& called Orufhna, round a
town of the fame name. Divided from thefe provinces by deferts and
mountains, the kingdom of Kharizm, formerly {o powerful as to oppofe
the Great Zingis, has gradually yielded to the encroaching defert.
To the S. of the range of the Ak Tau appears the fertile region of
Sogd, the ancient Sogdiana, with its capital Samarcand. On the 8. the
provinces of Balk, Kilan, Tokareltan, and Gaur, terminate the bounds
of Independent Tatary, here “oe by deferts on the W. from the
Periian province of Corafan. In general, Kharizm on the W. is not
© This is the ‘ndigenal, oriental, and proper orthography.
confidered
1
confidered as a part
regarded as embrac:
and fources of the :
PROGRESSIVE GE
and the north of th
S, of whom were th
Monern Geocr
ofthe prefent ftate c
man empire in exten
tions on the modern
{ciencey remains in
unavoidable conne&
Imaus, and in later
and Little Bucharia,
ance with the latter «
and briefly included
The north-wefterr
able diftri@, narrow
montory between tk
Nor on the S,W,
of turf or hardened
dom of Tangut, bei
Beyond thefe par
feveral rivers, lakes, |
jeluits, as the river FE:
and the lakes Sopou ;
river, the Polonkir, |
runs into a lake calle
With the fouthern
almoft wholly unacc
known with more aci
D’Anville and Iflen
rendered almoft imp
Hami by a circuit te
of Alak, which affor
cities and towns of
fingular regions in t
owns. ] The ch
followed towards the
duz, and by the Turl
or Camil, with its fu
provinee, for fome aj
Hisronry.] Little
recently conquered
country of the Seres
whofe death it beca
fidered as a part of|
vinces belonged to
Turfan, were the anc
racey who fpread dif,
afterwards fettled in
of China, Kiang Lo
golia, in order to ave
of the empire, by t
pletely vanquithed th
INDEPENDENT TATARY. 473
confidered as a part of Great Bucharia; but this laft appellation mutt be
regarded as embracing the whole extent from the mountains of Argun
and fources of the river Ilak, to the confines of Hindoftan. ;
PROGRESSIVE GEOGRAPHY. ] In ancient periods Weftern Turkiftan
and the north of the Cafpian, were the feats of the Maflagete ; to the
¢, of whom were the Scythians, on this fide of the Imaus or Belur Tag.
Monern Geocrapny.] As few materials will arife for a defcription
ofthe prefent ftate of Independent Tatary, a country exceeding the Ger-
man empire in extent, it ve not be uninterefting to offer fome obferva-
tions on the modern geography of this country, which, to the difgrace of
fiencey remains in a wretched ftate of imperfe€tion. The natural and
unavoidable conneétion between the ancient Scythias on both fides of the
Imaus, and in later times between weftern and eaftern Turkiftan, Great
and Little Bucharia, will authorife and demand fome previous ac uaint-
ance with the latter country, though recently fubjugated by the Chinefe,
and briefly included in the defcription of that empire.
The north-weftern province of China, called Shen-fi, prefents a remark-
able diftri, narrow, but of confiderable rk extending like a pro-
montory between the great defert on the N.E. and the Eluts of Koko
Nor on the S.W. The great wall is here low, and rudely conftruéted
of turf or hardened clay. This traét formerly belonged to the king-
dom of Tangut, being a modern addition to China.
Beyond thefe parts, which are the firft-approached by the caravans,
feveral rivers, lakes, towns, and ftations, are laid dawn in the maps by the
iefuits, as the river Etziné, with the towns of Ouey-yuen and Chao-maing ;
and the lakes Sopou and Souhouc. Tothe W. runs another confiderable
river, the Polonkir, near which is the city of Sha-cheou, where the river
runs into a lake called Hara or Kara Nor, the Black lake.
With the fouthern boundaries and provinces of Little Bucharia we are
almoft wholly unacquainted; but the weftern and northern parts are
known with more accuracy from various accounts, and from the maps of
D’Anville and Iflenieff To avoid the difficulties of fandy deferts,
rendered almoft impaffable by broken rocks, the caravans proceed to
Hami by a circuit to the north; where, at the bottom of the mountains
of Alak, which afford fome protection from the piercing cold, ftand the
cities and towns of Little Bucharia, in all its features one of the moft
fingular regions in the world.
‘owns. ] The chief towns, by all accounts, are Cafhgar and Yarcand,
followed towards the N.E. by Axu or Akfu; Chialith, alfo called Yul-
duz, and by the Turks Karathar, or the Black city; and Turfan. Hami
or Camil, with its furrounding villages, is rather confidered as a detached
provinee, for fome ages under the protection of China.
History.} Little Bucharia was fubjeét to the Kalmuks, who were
recently conquered by the Chinefe. In more ancient times it was the
country of the Seres; but was little known till the time of Zingis, after
whofe death it became the portion of his fon Zagathai. It was con-
fidered as a part of Moguliltan, or Mongolia; and the northern pro-
vinces belonged to the country of Geté, in which, to the N.E. of
Turfan, were the ancient habitations of the Eygurs or Ugurs, a Finnith
race, who {pread difmay thoughout Europe in the tenth century, and
afterwards fettled in Hungary. The late wife and benevolent emperor
of China, Kiang Long, or Chen Lung, made repeated vifits to Mon.
golia, in order to averawe the Kalmuks, the moft dangerous neighbours
of the empire, by the difplay of fuperior power. fn 1759 he com,
pletely vanquifhed thefe people, and thus annexed a valt territory to his
dominions.
474 INDEPENDENT TATARY?
dominions. Independently of the regions to the north, the extent of
Little Bucharia, as it is abfurdly named, from the confines of Ham; to
the mountains of Belur, is more than 1000 B. miles: and the breadth
from the mountains of Tibet to thofe of Alak, more than 500. ;
Rexigion.] The prevailing religion is the Mahometan, for the Kal.
muk conquerors, though they retained their idolatry, were tolerant,
The population cannot be extenfive, and is fuppofed chiefly to confit
of original Bucharians, who are defcribed as of a {warthy complexion,
thouzh fome be very fair and of elegant forms. They are faid to be
olite and benevolent, and their anguage is probably that called the
Srowthins » which is the fame with the Turkifh, that {peech having fup.
lanted their native tongue; for, that the chief population is original
Teens to be allowed, though there bea great mixture of Tatars, or Tur.
comans, and afew Kalmuks. The drefs of the men does not reach below
the calf of the leg, with girdles like the Polith. The female raiment js
fimilar, with long ear-rings, like thofe of Tibet : the hair is alfo worn
in very long trefles, decorated with ribbons. They tinge their nails with
henna. Both fexes wear trowfers, with light boots of Ruffia leather,
The head-drefs refembles the Turkifh. The houfes are generally of
ftone, decorated with fome Chinefe articles, They are — in their
food, which often contifts of minced meat ; and, like the Ruffians, they
preferve their viétuals frozen for a confiderable time. Tea is the general
drink. ‘The wives are purchafed ; and the ceremonies of marriage, &c,
differ little from thofe of other Mahometans, the mullahs or prieits having
great influence, They have fmall copper coins; but weigh gold and
filver like the Chinefe, with whom they maintained a confiderable com.
meree before the Kalmuk invafion, and which is now probably more
productive than ever by their union under the fame fovereign. They
are not warlike, but ufe the lance, fabre, and bow, while the rich have
coats of mail. - The country is very productive of many kinds of fruits,
and particularly wine. They are faid to have ye minev of go'd and
filver, but neither the natives nor Kalmuks had fu cient fill to work
thems: on the meltiag of the fnows abundance of gold is found in the
torrents, which they carry to China, and even to 'l’obolfk in Siberia,
Precious ftones, and even haeisids, are alfo found ; and one of the pros
dués is mufk, probably from the fouthern mountains near Tibet, in
which lait country the animal abounds. In contradiétion to the ufual
courfe of nature, the fouthern part bordering on the vait Alps of Tibet
is colder than the northern, which is protectec by the inferior ridge of
Alak. As the drefs is chuedy cotton, it is probable that the piant
abounds ii the country. a aes '
Such are the chief particularities concerning this interefling country to
be colleéted from the accounts above quoted. Dr. Pallas, in his travels
in Ruflia, gives fome idea of Bucharian commerce, in deferibing the ety
of Orenburg*. But as he joins the Sucharians with the people of
Khiva, he probably implies Greater Bucharia. He feems to mention
raw filk as a produc’ of the country, as well as lamb-fking of a remark
ably fine kind, and the hair of camels.
* Nec. Ruff. iii. 193,
D!
Kirgufes. — Step
Trade. — Hiffor
charia. — Nepl
— Manners ane
— Rivers. —L
KirGusEs. ]
undoubted Tatar
Stepp oF Issr
Kirgufes from S;
name; and there
the fands, or fall
bitter*. Even t
five plain muft no
vegetation ; and |
panfe, as well asi
which laft confifts
with the appearar
On the weft of
though the great
fought the proteé
fo called from the
been here claffed
though quite unk
fome tribes becom
fidered as faithlefs
fended by mount
repeated contetts
Little Hords hav
but this fubje@io
fortify themfelves
mated at thirty
contain fiaty thou
this wide region
exceed half a mil!
Manwers, &c.
wards the wet,
defcribed at confi
kind of felt; the
The Great Mord
Werled near the m
haw called the /
from the borders
fepp of iff,
Hord, when Palla
(wi, OF prites, w
* Dec, Ro iv, 4
} Dee, Ruff, wi, d
wing
and
com.
more
They
have
uits,
1 and
work
h the
beria,
pros
t, in
ufual
‘bet
re of
piant
ry to
avels
} ity
le of
tion
vark
INDEPENDENT TATARY.
CHAPTER II.
DESCRIPTION OF INDEPENDENT TATARY.
Kirgujes. — Stepp of Iffim. — Hords.-- Number. — Manners.— Drefs.—
Trade.— Hiftory.— Kharizm.-— Name.— Khiva.—Trade.— Great Bue
charia. — Nephthalises. — Extent and Boundaries. — Hiftory.— Religion.
— Manners and Cuftoms. ~ Prowinces. — Cities. — Manufaétures.— Climate.
— Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains.—. Mineralogy.— Charaéer of the People.
BOUT one-half of Independent Tatary is occu-
Bincuses. J A pied by the Kirgufes rH the north, = peg of
undoubted Tataric origin, and the Uzbeks in the fouth.
Srepp oF Issim.| The great ftepp, or defert of Iffim, divides thefe
Kirgufes from Siberia. This ftepp is interfeéted by a river of the fame
name ; and there are other ftreams which either join that river, are loft in
the fands, or fall into extenfive lakes, for the moft part either faline or
bitter*. Even the foil is impregnated with falt and nitre. This exten-
five plain muft not however be regarded as a mere defert, deftitute of all
vegetation ; and it is faid that many ancient tombs occur in its wide ex-
panfe, as well as in the Barabinian ftepp, between the Irtifh and the Orb,
which laft confifts of a tolerable foil, and prefents feveral forefts of birch,
with the appearance of having been formerly a prodigious faline marth.
On the weft of the Kirgules there ftill remain fome tribes of Kalmuks,
Hoag the greater part migrated from the Volga in 1770, when they
fought the protection of the Chinefe. The Kirgufes are fuppofed to be
fo called from the founder of their hord ; and have from time immemorial
been here claffed under three divifions, of Great, Middle, and Leffer,
though quite unknown to Europe till the Ruffian conqueft of Siberia,
fome tribes becoming fubject to that empire in 1606+. They are con-
dered as faithlefs, pufijanimous, yet reftlefs; but the Great Hord, de-
fended by mountains op the S. and E., afferted their independence in
repeated contefts with the Kalmuks of Soongaria. The Middle and
Little Hords have acknowledged the Ruffian fovereignty fince 1731;
but this fubjeétion is merely nominal, for the Rufhans are obliged to
fortify themfelves againit thefe allies. Thefe two hords are each efti-
mated at thirty thoufand families; and fuppofing he Greet Tord te
contain fiaty thoufand, and each family fix perfons, ‘he pooulution oi
this wide region mult amount to 720,000; but it provably dues not
exceed half a million.
Manwers, &c.] The Kirgufes have graduw! ~oved from we eaft to-
wards the welt. ‘Their manners, common tc the J'ntars, have been
defcribed at confiderable length by Pallas { ‘pew tents are of a
kind of felt; they drink kumife, made of ac culated mare's milk.
The Great Mord is confidered as the fource of th two others. Being
Wweled near the mountains of Alak, alfo called A'» Taw, this hord has
hu called the Alatanion Kirgufes§, They lead # wandering life,
from the borders of the Ugper Sirr, or Syrt, near Tathkur4, to the
fepp of iffim, Bach ord. has its particular Khan, bw * fiddle
Hord, when Pallas approached this country, was contented wita a Sul-
‘wi, OY prince, who feemed to acknowledge the Khan the Leffler
* Dec. Rolf. iv, 456, Pallas calle it che ttepp of Hett, + Tooke, ii. 78.
} Dee, Ruff. Hi. 875, § tb, of9.
Ve,
Bees
y i
4
MH
1 |
q
i
a ee
fh
746 INDEPENDENT TATARY.
Hord: and in 1777 this Khan of the Leffler Hord, whofe eleétion had
been confirmed by Ruffia, was called Nur Hiali, a fenfible and equitabl
prince. Their features are Tataric, with the flat nofe and {mall eyes;
but not oblique, like thofe of the Monguls and Chinefe. They have
horfes, oneuiti cattle, fheep, and goats. It was afferted that {ome
individuals in the Middle Ford had 10,000 horfes, 300 camels, 3 or
4:000 cattle, 20,000 fheep, and more than 2000 goats: while in the
Leffer Hord were proprietors of 5000 horfes, and a proportional number
of the other animals. Their dromedaries furnifhed a confiderable quan.
tity of woolly hair, which was fold to the Ruffians and Bucharians,
being arvually clipped like that of fheep. Their chief food is mut.
ton, of the large tailed fort ; and fo exquifite is the lamb, that it is fent
from Orenburg to Peterfburg for the tables of the palace. The lamb.
fkins are the moft celebrated after thofe of Bucharia, being damafked as
it were by clothing the little animal in coarfe linen. But the wool of
the fheep is coarfe, and only ufed in domeftic confumption for felts and
thick cloths. The ftepps hovply them with objects of the chace, wolves,
foxes, badgers, antelopes, ermines, weazles, marmots, &c. In the
fouthern and eaftern mountains are found wild fheep, the ox of Tiber,
which feems to delight in fnowy alps; with chamois, chacals, tigers, and
wild affes *.
As the Kirgufians regard each other as brethren, they are obliged to
employ flaves, being captives whom they take in their incurfions. Their
drefs is the common Tataric, with large trowfers and pointed boots,
The ladies ornament their heads with the necks of herons, difpofed
like horns. They appear to be Mahometans, though rather of a relaxed
creed.
Trave.] The Kirgufians carry on fome trade with Ruffia. The chief
traffic, which is wholly by exchange, is at Orenburg, but the Middle
Hord progeed to Omfk. Sheep, to the amount of 150,000, are annually
brought to Orenburg ; with horfes, cattle, lamb-fkins, camels’ wool, and
camlets ; fometimes they offer flaves, Perfians or ‘l'urcomans. In return
they take manufactured articles, chiefly clothes and furniture. From
Bucharia, Khiva, and Tafhkund, they receive arms and coats of mail,
which Ruffia refufes them, in return foe camels and cattle. They are
extremely fond of the Kalmuk women, who long retain their form and
charms ; and often marry them if they will adopt the Mahometan religion,
There is an annual feftival in honour of the dead. About the beginning
of the feventeenth century this people, who were formerly Shamanians,
became children of circumcifion, by the exertions of the priefts of Tur.
kiftan ; but Pallas, in 1769, found them addiéted to forceries and other
idle fuperttitions.
al a Even this barren region, now inhabited by the Kirgufes,
has been the {cene of confiderable events ; and it ie not improbabie that
its numerous deferts and plains may formerly have been more fertile, at
leaft in patturage. The gradual deficcation, obferved in the fouthen
ftepps of Siberia, may warrant the conclufion that the hills and plains, on
the north of the Cafpian and Aral, anciently prefented more numerous
ftreams and rich verdure, However this be, thefe regions have been
held by fucceffive nations of high repute, from the Maflageta of early
times to the Turks. Thefe laft imparted tue name of Turkiitan, having
migrated from their habitations near the mountains of Bogdo, adjoinin
to thofe of Altai. In the fixth century thefe Turks had already Spread
* Dec. Ruff, iii, 396,
* Europeans till
to the Cafpia
original feats.
Nephthalites
As the Turks
held by the K:
this centre of
the deftinies ¢
Turkiftan fro
by the Turks
may be confide
deferts, and m
tion till the for
by their peculi
yaknown race,
Afiato Europ
of their fettler
But the Turk
the fate of thei
to have been
Gothic tribes,
of the name of
the moft beauti
of Europe.
KHARIZM. ]
briefly to defer
Gihon or Am
deferts, the chi
country is abot
Zingis was a p
apart of Grea
At prefent t
circuit of whic!
are five walled «
other*, « Th
power, except |
The Kievinfki
them in cunnin,
the Kirgufes li
Their only trac
furs, and hides
Tatars, who o!
place itfelf pro
quality, and a
ture+.” ‘The
arifing ground
and much high:
and a broad de:
and commands
duttry of the is
low, moftly bui
Khiva is faid
INDEPENDENT TATARY. 477
to the Cafpian ; while the Eygurs feem to have fucceeded them in their
original feats. They foona ter fubdued the people of Sogdiana, and the
Nephthalites of Great Bucharia, called in that ignorant age White Huns.
As the Turks founded their firft weftern fettlements in the regions now
held by the Kirgufes, they thence received the name of Turkiftan. From
this centre of their power iffued thofe Turkifh armies which have changed
the deftinies of fo many nations. Little Bucharia was called Eaftern
Turkiftan from a fimilar caufe ; but appears to have been firft fubdued
by the Turks of Cathay on the N.W. of China. The Turks and Huns
may be confidered as one and the fame Tataric race, totally unknown to
‘ Europeans till the appearance of the latter, who firft paffed the ftepps,
deferts, and mountains which had concealed them from claffical obferva-
tion till the fourth century. The Huns, who appeared about A.D. 375,
by their peculiar features impreffed the writers of the time as a new and
yaknown race, having feemingly paffed in one courfe of depredation from
Afiato Europe; while the Gothic and Slavonic nations had left many
of their fettlements vacant, in their progrefs into the Roman empire.
But the Turks, though originally the fame people, perhaps warned by
the fate of their brethren, made a flow sndiareaiul progrefs; and appear
to have been mingled by marriages and conquetts with the Slavonic and
Gothic tribes, on the N. and E. of the Cafpian. Such was the origin
of the name of Turkiftan, from which the Turks {pread defolation over
the moft beautiful countries of the eaft, and even threatened the liberties
of Europe.
KuarizM.] Before proceeding to Great Bucharia, it may be proper
briefly to defcribe the country of Kharizm, which extends from the
Gihon or Amu to the Cafpian fea, bounded on the N. and S. by wide -
deferts, the chief town being now Khiva, but anciently Urghenz. This
country is about 350 B. miles in length and breadth, and in the time of
Zingis was a powerful kingdom, but at that time included Corafan, and
apart of Great Bucharia.
At prefent this ftate is almoft reftri&ed to the diftri& of Khiva, the
circuit of which may be performed on horfeback in three days: but there
are five walled cities. or rather towns, within half a day’s journey of each
other*, «* The khan is abfolute, and intirely independent of any other
power, except the Mulla Bafhi, or high prieft, by whom he is controlled.
The Kievinfki Tatars differ very little from the Kirgufes ; but furpafs
them in cunning and treachery. Their manners are the fame, only that
the Kirgufes live in tents, whilft the others inhabit cities and villages.
Their on!y trade is with Bokhara and Per!is, whither they carry cattle,
furs, and hides, all which they have from the Kirgufes and Turkoman
Tatars, who often prove very troublefome neighbours to them. The
place itfelf ay little more than cotton, lamb furs of a very mean
quality, and a {mall quantity of raw filk, fome of which they manufac.
ture +.” The fame author informs vs that the town of Khiva ftands on
arifing ground, with three gates, and a ftrong wall of earth very thick,
and much higher than the houfes: there are turrets at {mall diftances,
and a broad deep ditch full of water. It occupies a confiderable {pace,
and commands a pleafant profpeé& of the adjacent plains, which the in-
duitry of the inhabitants hes rendered very fertile; but the houfes are
low, moft!y built with mud, the roofs flat, and covered with earth.
Khiva is faid to ftand at the diftance of feventeen days from the Cafpian
# Flanway, i. 241. + Ibid.
fea,
478
fea, and ftom Orenburg thirty-three, computing the day's journ
verfts*. In 1739 élie khan of Khiva affembled an ps of plan
oppofe Nadir ; but the city furrendered at difcretion, dod
Pallas informs us that the people of Khiva bring to Orenburg con
fiderable quantities of raw cotton+. But the coatts of the Cafotan ay
INDEPENDENT TATA RY.
held by fome remains of Turkomans in the north, and by Uzbeks in |
the fouth. The bay of Balkan is vifited by Ruffian veffels: the ites
yield rice and cotton, and one of them, Napbihonia, a confiderable
quantity of naphtlia, the bed feeming thus to pafs the fea from Baky
in a S.E. dire€tion ; but they are inhabited by Turkoman pirates, 4 |
more confiderable trade is maintained with Mangufhlak, which ou
maps reprefent as ftanding at the egrefs of the river ‘Tedjen; but, ac.
cording to the learned Wahl, that river and another which flows by
Mefhid, are received by an inland lake, the Kamyth Tefhen, on the
S. of the bay of Balkan; a circumftance which feems to be confirmed
by the chart of the Cafpian publifhed by Hanway, in which the mouth
of the Tedjen does not appear f. To the N. of the large bay of Bal.
kan are the lake of Karabogas and another inlet, which is followed by
the port of Alexander or Ifkander.
As the merchants of Khiva brought gold and gems to A ftrakan, pro.
bably from the t.vo Bucharias, an idea was fuggefted to Peter the Great
that thefe precious pranvert were found in Kharizm, and he in confe.
queiice attempted a fettlement. But the Ruifians, to the number of 3000,
advancing under the command of a Circaffian prince called Beckawitz,
towards Khiva, were all cut off by the Uzbeks.
The hiftory of Kharizm has been ably illuftrated by its king, or khan,
Abulgazi, in his general hiftory of the Tatars written about 1660. He
was born in 1605, and cleéted khan 1643, after a long imprifonment in
Perfia. He di
dowed with the rareft qualities.
Great Bucnaria.] By far the moft important part of Independent
Tatary is comprifed under the name of Great Bucharia, generally fup.
ofed to-have originated from the city of Bokhara, the firft which the
Derfian merchants entered on vifiting the country. It is part of the
Touran of the ancient Perfians, and was By, A to the Greeks
and Romans by the names of Sogdiana and Baétriana ; the former being
the Maweralnahar, or country beyond the river, of oriental geography;
while Ba¢triana correfponds with Balk. From the fecond fon of Zingis
it received the name of Zagathai. By the Byzantine hiftorians the peo-
pie are called Ephthalites, or corruptly Nephthalites, a. name derived
from the Oxus or Amn, by the Perfians {tyled Abtelah, or the river of
gold. Thofe Byzantine writers, who affeét to imitate claffical language,
call the Ephthalites White Huns.
Extent AND BOUNDARiES. | Great Bucharia extends more than 700
B. miles in ‘ength from N_ to S., by a medial breadth, if Fergana be in-
cluded, of abont 350, thus vather exceeding Great Britain in fize, but
much inferior to the country called Little Bucharia. The northers
* Equal, by Hanway's sccount, to 27 B, miles; hence the diftance of Khiva from the
Cafpian would be 450 B. miles, while our maps fcarcely allow 300.
+ Dec. Ruff. iii. 123.
2 Wahl, probably after D’Anville, places Mangufhlak far to the north near the Dead
Gulf, in the country of the Mankats, called Karakalpaks by the Rufians. The map of
Ruffia, 1787, gives the gulf of Manguthlak on’ the north of cape Kalagan, Colonel
Brace can deferve no credit in oppofition to all the Ruffian accounts.
boundary
in 1667, revered as an excellent prince, and a manen. |
boundary app¢
fde a defert, t
Kharizm and (
or Paropamifug
harriers.
History. ]
that of Perfia.
the feat and fo
became better :
ment of the G
Mahometan cof
of this countr
defeendant of
charia; and p
power, The
monarchy in B
to 1658, foon
tohave been di
In 1741 the cit
tuted all the mq
himfelf in Cora
is fubject to t
pear to remain
of recent acco
of this countr
in the N.
RELIGION. |
metan of the St
There is no pre
of the T'atars ar
ency an army |
el Bokhara
cand, confiderin
troops in his arr
Perfian, There
From an accoun
pears that Cora’
to that of Eriv
probable that th
of Corafan.
MANNERS AX
ae fimilar to th
moft {pirited and
tents in the fur
They are, hows
provinces, The
erable trade w
Tadjiks, are co
and features, wit
the mode of dre!
the contrary, are
even their wome
Sot averfe to w.
y forty
00, to
& con.
an are
deks in
he ifles
derable
n Baku
es. A
ch our 4
Ut, ace
Ows by
on the
nfirmed
mouth
of Bal.
wed by
aN, pro»
> Great
1 confe.
af 3000,
kawitz,
or khan,
0. He
ment in
manen- §
pendent
ly fup.
hich the
of the
Greeks
er being
praphy ;
Zingis
he peo-
derived
river of
guage,
an 700
a be in-
t e, but
INDEPENDENT TATARY. 479
poundary appears to be the mountains of Argun. On the weftern
ide a defert, the river Amu, and other deferts, divide Bucharia from
Kharizm and Corafan: while on the S. and E. the mountains of Gaur,
or Paropamifus, the Hindoo Koh, and the chain of Belur, are perpetual
riers.
weiewehi The original population of this country was Scythian, like
tht of Perfia. Its hiftory might be traced from the earlieft periods, as
the feat and fource of the moft ancient Perfian monarchy. This region
became better ‘known by the expedition of Alexander, and the eftablith-
ment of the Greek monarchy of Batriana. But it is not till after the
Mahometan conqueftgof Perfia in the feventh century, that the hiftory
of this country becomes fufficiently clear. In 1494 Sultan Baber, a
defcendant of Timur, was with his Monguls expelled from Great Bu-
charia; and proceeding into Hindoftan, there founded the Mongul
power. The Tiatarian victors, called Uzbeks, eftablifhed a powerful
nonarchy in Bucharia ; and fucceflive khans held the fceptre from 1494.
to 1658, foon after which period this great and fertile country appears
tohave been divided into feveral dominations, under numerous khans.
In 1741 the city of Bokhara, with a {mall territory around it, confti-
tuted all the monarchy of one of thefe khans *. Nadir firft diftinguifhed
himfelf in Corafan, in combats with the Uzbeks. The province of Gaur
is fubje&t to the kings of Candahar; but Balk and Samarcand ap-
pear to remain fubject to their own Uzbek khans. In the deficiency
of recent accounts, it can only be conjectured that the chief’ powers
of this country are the khan of Balk in the S.,° and of Samarcand
in the N. ‘
ReLicion.] The religion of the Uzbeks and Buchrrians is the Maho-
metan of the Sunni feét, and the government of the khans is defpotic.
There is no precife evidence of the ftate of the population, which contifts
of the Tatars and of the Bucharians. It is probable that upon an emer-
gency an army might be muftered of 100,000; but though Nadir re-
duced Bokhara and Khiva, he feems to have refpeéted Balk and Samar-
cand, confidering them as allied ftates, which furnifhed him with the beft
troops in his army : and he even regarded himfelf as a Tatar, not as a
Perfian, There is no itatement of the revenue of thefe fertile provinces.
From an account publifhed by Hanway of the revenues of Nadir, it ap-
pears that Corafan yielded half a million oy annually, being equal
to that of Erivan, and fuperior to any other Perfian province. It is
probable that the revenue of Great Bucharia is at leaft equal to that
of Corafan.
Manners AND Customs.} The manners and cuftoms of the Uzbeks
we fimilar to thofe of the otuer Tatars: but they are fuppofed to be the
mott fpirited and induftrious cf thefe barbarians. Though many refide in
tents in the fummer, yet i: winter they inhabit the towns and villages.
They are, however, ad tiéted to make fudden inroads into the Perfian
provinces. Thofe of Balk are the moft civilized, and carry on a confi-
derable trade with Perfia and Hindoftan. The native Bucharians, or
Tadjiks, are comparatively fair, and correfpond, in elegance of form
and features, with thofe of Little Bucharia, whom they alfo refemble in
the mode of drefs. ‘Phe Bucharians never bear arms. The Uzbeks, on
the contrary, are no ftrangers to the ule of the mufket ; and it is faid that
even their women, who turpafs thofe of the other Tatars in beauty, are
tot averfe to warfare, but will fometimes attend their hufbands to the
* Hanway, i. 242,
10 field.
~
480 INDEPENDENT TATARY.
field. The language is Zaga haian, that is, Turkith or Turkomanic ;
but that of the Bucharians has never been inveftigated, though it be pro.
bably Perfian, like their phyfiognomy, but intermingled with Turkith,
Mongolian, and even Hindoo terms. Tie literature of Great Bucharia
would furnifh an ample theme, Samarcand having been a celebrated
{chool of oriental fcience, cultivated even by monarchs, as Ulug Be
and others : it was ftill, in the beginning of the lait century, the motf cele
brated of Mahometan univerfities *. ;
Provinces.}] The cities in Great Bucharia generally give name to
the provinces, or receive their appellations from them. _In the north the
rovince of Fergana appears to be fubject to the Kjrgufes of the Greater
Ford ; and of Andegan, its capital, there is no recent account. The
other chief provinces are the weftern part of Shath, and a diftri& called
by D’Anville Ofruftma, from a town of the fame name+. The mof
fertile and celebrated province is that of Sogd, fo called from the river
which pervades it. Next are Vath, Kotlan, and Kilan. Tokareftan
and Gaur are the moft fouthern provinces, fat
Citizs.] The chief eity of Great Bucharia is Samarcand, on the
fouthern bank of the river Sogd, which, at. the diftance of above a hun.
dred miles, after wafhing the walls of Bokhara, paffes through a confi.
derable lake, and is fuppofed to join the Oxus or Amu.
OF this celebrated capital there is no recent account, but it feems
greatly to have declined fince the time of Timur, the feltivities of whole
court, at his palace here, and villas in the vicinity, have been fo well
‘deferibed by his Perfian hiftorian. Towards the beginning of the lat
century, Bentink fays that Samarcand was fortified with ramparts of
turf, the houfes being moftly of hardened clay, though fome were of
ftone, from quarries in the neighbourhood. The khan of Great Bu.
charia commonly encamped in the adjacent meadows, the caftle being al.
moft ruinous. ‘The excellence of t e paper made of filk recommended
it toall the countries of the ealt: and it is fuppofed that we derived this
invention from Samarcand{. The rich vale of Sog produces fuch
abundance of exquifite grapes, melons, pears, and apples, that they were
fent to Perfia, and even to Hindoftan. |
Bokhara, on the fame river, has repeatedly conteited the metropolitan
. dignity with Samarcand. When vifited by the ig. agents in 1741,
“it was a large and populous city, fubjeét to its khan ; ftandin ona
wifing ground, with a flender wall of earth; the houfes of clay, but t e Ns
anerous mofques of brick §. The citizens manufa@tured foap and calico;
and the chief products were cotton, rice, and cattle. From the Kalmuks
‘they received rhubarb and mufk: and from Badakfhan, the capital ofa
country fo called, they ufed to receive lapis lazuli, and other precious
tones; that city being computed at fixteen days’ journey from Bokhar,
There was and copper coin: and after Nadir took this city, the
Perfian and Indian filver became —. In the tenth century it wa
iftinguithed by the manufacture of fine linen, .
Oa y ~~ inguifhed city on the river Dehafh, which flows into the
Amu from the fouthern mountains of Gaur or Paropamifus, probably,
as in the beginning of the lait century, ftill fubject to its particular
* Bentink on ee are, "
: fh ‘bn Haukal, p. .
: thn mas = is faid to She bam known A. D, 650. Oufeley 8 Ebn Haulil
p 300. The fame work may be confulted for the itate of this great city in the ceil
century.
§ Hanway, i, 242.
khan
khan of the
large and pc
place confif
This beauti
powers of P
mutual jealo:
* onone fide, a
of all the T'at
the country,
Bucharia to t
called the H:
and Hindofta
Zouf, whic!
capital, -is faic
mian, in the f
city was rema:
in the adjacent
near a pefs thi
the khan of Bz
of lapis lazuli,
have fupplied
‘Not far to t
Inthe latt cent
rather of Sama
was ufed as a {
but well built ;
gold, filver, an
and filver abou
when the fnow
Little Buchari:
Kotlan or KI
feems little men
in modern acco
have declined u
Manuract
tioned in the ac
doftan and Chin
rian merchants
the eattern coun
CLIMATE. |
even of the fou
capped with pe
Greece, and Af
the lofty Alps,
country prefent
hills, and moun
the rivers the {
ceeds the heig
thewn in the cul
thofe of the Tat
Rivers.) k
* Bentink on Aly
th is probable
P+ 258, fays that ti
lanic 3
€ pro-
irkith,
charia
brated
g Beg
it cele.
ime to
rth the
sreater
. The
t called
1e moft
he river
careftan
on the
- a hun.
a confi.
it feeme
of whofe
- fo well
the laft
\parts of
were of
reat Bu-
being al-
mended
rived this
hces {uch
hey were
ropolitan
in 1741,
ing ona
t the nus
d calico;
Kalmuks
ppital of a
precious
Bokhara.
city, the
ry Wt wat
$ into the
probably,
particular
Ebn Havkal,
in. the tent
khan
INDEPENDENT TATARY. 48k
khan of the Uzbeks ; being then the moft confiderable of all their cities,
large and populous, with houfes of brick or ftone: while the caftle or
palace confifted almoft entirely of marble fromthe neighbouring mountains.
This beautiful city was an objeét of ambition to the neighbouring
powers of Perfia and Hindoftan; but was fecure not only from their
mutual jealoufy, but from the difficult accefs through high mountains
on one fide, and deferts on the other. The people were the moft civilized
of all the T'atars, and beautiful filks were prepared from the produét of
the country, which feems then to have included the whole of Great
Bucharia to the S. of the Amu, which, in this part of its courfe, is alfo
called the Harrat. It is the chief feat of the trade between Bucharia
and Hindoftan.
Zouf, which is alfo called Gaur, from the proviace of which it is the
capital, is faid to be now fubjeé to the kingdom of Candahar and Ba-
mian, in the fame province, mult have fhared the fame fate. The latter
city was remarkable for numerous images, and other monuments, carved.
in the adjacent mountains. Annderab is the chief city of Tokareftan ;
near a pefs through the mountains of Hindoo Koh, {ftriétly guarded by
the khan of Balk. In the neighbourhood of this city were rich quarries
of lapis lazuli, a fubftance with which Great Bucharia feems chiefly to
have fupplied,the ancient and modern world.
Not far to the north ftands Badakthan, on the river Amu or Harrat.
Inthe laft centuvy this city belonged to the khan of Great Bucharia, or
rather of Samarcand ; and being fecluded in a branch of the Belar Alps,
was ufed as a {tate prifon-for rivals or infurgents. Badakfhan was {mall,
but well built and populous; and its inhabitants were enriched by the
gold, filver, and rubies found in the neighbourhood ; the grains of gold
and filver abounding in the torrents which defcend from the mountains,
when the fnow melts in the beginning of fummer*. Several caravans for
Little Bucharia and China pafs by this city.
Kotlan or Khotlan is the capital of a province fo called, but otherwife
feems little memorable. Termed, fituated on the Amu, is {carcely knowa
in modern accounts: and in general the northern cities feem greatly te
have declined under the domination of Uzbeks.
Manuractunss. } The chief manufaétuyes have been already men-
tioned in the account of the citics. Betides the caravans to Perfia, Hin-
doftan and China, fome trade is carried on with the Ruffians, the Bucha-
rian merchants not only furnithing their own products, but others from
the eaftern countries to which they trade.
Cumats.| The €limate in general appears to be excellent, the heat
ever of the fouthern provinces being tempered by the high mountains
capped with perpetual fnow ; and though fituated in the parallel of Spain,
Greece, and Afiatic Turkey, the proximity of the Siberian deferts, and
the lofty Alps, render the fummer more teinperate. The face of the
country prefents a great variety ; but though there are numerous rivers,
hills, and mountains, there feems to be 2 deficiency of wood+. Near
the rivers the foil is very productive, fo that the grafs fometimes ex-
ceeds the height of a man; and in fome parts couliderable induftry is
fhewn in the cultivation of rice and other grain. In any other hands but
thofe of the Tatars, this country might rival any European region.
Rivers.) The chief rivers of Independent Tatary are the Amu and
* Bentink on Abulgazi, p. 55.
+ Itis probable there may be large forefts on the weftern fide of dhe Belur, as Bentink,
P. 258, fays that Umber abounds,
Li the
cise cht lh aed ics cia sds asa he Reade oath ay = alaiangessenpiecsisin pit orszs sees
INDEPENDENT TATARY.,
the Sirr, or river of Shafh. The former is the ancient Oxus, and near
its fource is called the Harrat : oriental geographers alfo term it the Qj.
hoon, as they call the Sirr the Sihoon.
The Amu rifes in the mountains of Belur, more than 200 B. miles
N.E. from Badakfhan, and before it reach that city, has already re.
ceived the Ortong fromthe E. From Badakfhan it pafles W. to Ter.
med, after receiving numerous ftreams from the Ak Tau on the N, and
from the Hindoo Koh on the S. After being joined from the fame quar.
ter by the Dehath, or river of Balk, with collected {treams from the
mountains of Gaur, the Amu follows a N.W. direGtion, and falls into
the fea of Aral, which appears, as before mentioned, to have been in all
ages its chief receptacle, though a branch formerly paffed by Urghenz
towards the Cafpian, and another feems to have been detached near Ha.
zarafp. The whole courfe of this noble river furpaffes that of the Tigris,
being probably not lefs than 900 B. miles. It abounds with fith of va.
rious forts.
The Sirr, or river of Shafh, alfo rifes in the mountains of Belur, and
falls into the eaftern fide of the fea of Aral, after a courfe of about
50 B. miles. According to Iflenieff the furtheft fource of the Sir
wsthe river Narin, which rifes to the S. of the lake Tuzkul in the chain
of Alak, near its junction with the Belur Alps ; and by the account of
Pallas the fource is near that of the river T’alas. The Narin itfelf con.
fifts of numerous ftreams collected from the ridges of Alak and Argun,
bending to the S., while the other rivers in this quarter flow ina north
dire&tion ; but the Sirr, peculiarly fo called, ‘rifes in the mountains of
Terek Daban, or northern part of the Belur chain, where it joins that of
Alak. After paffing Andegan and Cojend, the Sirr or Faxartes runs
N.W. by Tafhkund and Tunkat, where it is joined by a confiderable
river from the EZ. At Otrar it receives the river Taraz. The remaining
courfe of the Sirr is chiefly through the defert of Burzuk ; and itis
doubtful if it be joined by the Sarafu, a large river from the N., fo imper.
fect is the geography of thefe regions.
In the country poffefled by the three hords of Kirgufes are alfo
other confiderable ftreams, asthe Dzui, which rifes on the N. of the
lake Tuzkul; and the Irghiz and Turgai, which flow into a lake on
the N. of the Aral; not to mention the iflim, pervading the {lepp of
the fame name. Several of thefe lakes and rivers, now obfcure, are
remarkable in the hiltory of Zingis and his fucceflérs, when, directing
their conquefts to the N. of the Cafpian, they fubdued the greater pat
of European Ruffia.
Lakrs.] ‘The moft confiderable lake is'the fea of Aral, or of
eagles, already mentioned in the general view of Alia. The lake
Tengis, Balkafh, or Palkati, is near 140 B. miles in length, by half
that breadth, being the largeft lake in Afia, after, the feas of Araland
Baikal; but this, with two other very confiderable lakes to the E,
properly belong to the Kalmuks fubject to China. The lakes in the
country of the Kirgufes and in Great and Little Bucharia are of lefs
moment.
Mountains. } The principal range of mountains is that of Belur,
which, according to all accounts, is a great alpine chain, coygred with
perpetual fhow. ‘The chief branches proceed towards the W', for on
the E. is the high central plain of Afia, fullof deferts, as if nature had
here performed her eatlieft operations, when this fir and greateit conti.
nent emerged from the primeval waters. Of this extenfive tuble-land
the Belur may be regarded as the weltern buttrefs, continued by the
, moun:
4
them in this light
mountains of
the northern
chain gradual
the S. limit o:
to which coun
and excrefcent
' Nand E., th
verfe of the de
/ mountains, wh
hafes ; the weft
with irregular
mountains.
The chain ¢
and is continue
of Little Buch
tain in central
Tatars. On th
Hindoo Koh th
Koh, and mou;
Great Bucharia
without any int
The mountains
the Kara Tau, |
river; and like
the Belur.
MINERALOGY.
have been explore
alpine regions pr
is not fo obfcure
have poffeffed th
the proper purfu
tun gold, filver,
loured ruby; no
the native induftr
al ammoniac, vi
filver is added, a
there were {prin
fire and burns,”’
D'Anville’s Ofre
in the night feem¢
On digging the g
fires near Baku.
province around (
rably father of A
the penury of his
character of this
26a relief from the
mg a country hi
countably remains|
ception of interior
“ Such are the
turns afide from ¢
nd
ut
irr
ain
t of
One
UINy
rth
5 of
it of
runs
‘able
ning
it 18
per.
alfo
! the
e on
op of
by are
cing
P part
or of
lake
> half
al and
i¢ Ey
hn the
£ lefs
Belur,
1 with
for on
re had
contie
he-land
by the
mou
INDEPENDENT TATARY. 483
mountains of Jimbal and Kifik Tag to the Altaian chain, which forms
the northern buttrefs on the S. of the fea of Baikal. On the FE. this
chain gradually declines from the fources of the Onon and Kerlon, and
the S. limit of the defert of Shamo, while the numerous alps of Tibet,
to which country there is agradual afcent froin China, form the fouthern
and excrefcent buttrefs. Except in fome few places, fheltered from the
N. and E., this extenfive elevation is expofed to extreme cold, the re-
verfeof the deferts of Africa. It is interfected with great ranges of
mountains, whofe height muft be enormous fuperadded to: that of the
hafes ; the weltern parts in particular, between Siberia and ‘Tibet, abound
with irregular ridges of naked rocks, prefenting as it were the ruins of
mountains. .
The chain of Belur, the ancient Imaus, proceeds nearly N. and S,
and is continued by the mountains of Alak or Alak Oola onthe N.
of Little Bucharia, which joins the great Bogdo, the higheft. moun.
tain in central Afia, according to the reports of the Monguls and
Tatars. On the S. the Belur ae more intimately conneéted with the
Hindoo Koh than with the northern ridges of Tibet. The Hindoo
Koh, and mountains of Gaur, mult not be forgotten among thofe of
Great Bucharia, being feemingly an extenfion of the chain of Belur,
without any interruption, except a narrow to the S. of Anderab.
The mountains of Argjun or Argun fee 0 form one chain with
the Kara Tau, though broken, as not unutual, by the tranfition of a
river; and like the Ak Tau, in the §., appeara branch detached from
the Belur.
MingraLocy.] Neither the botany nor zoology of this country
have been explored by any intelligent naturalift. We have feen that the
alpine regtons prefent many of the animals of Tibet. The mineralogy
is not fo obfcure, though the Monguls and Tatars, who may be faid'to
have poffefled this ‘country for a thoufand years, have not induftry for
the proper purfuit of metallurgy. The alpine heights in the S.E. con-
tain gold, filver, and a peculiar produdtion, the balay, or pale rofe co-
loured ruby ; not to mention lapis lazuli. In the tenth century, before
the native induftry had expired under long oppreflion, Fergana produced
falammoniac, vitriol, iron, copper *, gold, and turkoifes ; and quick-
filver isadded, a rare and valuable product.. Inthe mountain of Zarka
there were {prings of naphtha and bitumen, and * a ftone that takes
fire and burns,’’ which muft imply coal. Inthe country of Setrufhtch,
D'Anville’s Ofrufhna, there was a cavern, whence a vapour arofe, which
in the night feemed fiery, and from which fal ammonrac was procured.
On digging the ground a fimilar vapour would arife, as we are told of the
fires near Baku. In the mountainsof Ailak or Ilak, the moit northern
province around Otrar, there were mines of gold and filver. The vene-
rably father af Arabian geography, Ebn Haukal, has compenfated for
the penury of his information refpecting natural hiitory, by ar animated
character of this country and its pbb: which may be herg. introduced
asa relief from the drynefs of fome of the details unavoidable in defcrib-
ing a country highly celebrated, but the geography of which unac-
countably remains the moft defective of any in Afia, withthe fingle ex.
ception of interior A rabia. ;
“ Such are the generofity and liberality of the inhabitants, that no one
turns afide from the rites of hofpitality ; fo that a perfon contemplatiag
them in this light, would imagine that all the families of the land were but
* Ehn Haukel
Ii 2 one
d334 a
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
=f]
==
re
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14500
(716) 672-4503
e
*
e
484 INDEPENDENT TATARY..
one boufe. When a traveller arrives there every perfon endeavours to ats
tra&t him to himfelf, that he may have opportunities of performing kind
offices for the ftranget ; and the beft proof of their hofpitable and gene.
rous difpofition is, that every peafant, though poffeffing but a bare fuffi.
ciency, allots a portion of his cottage for the reception of a gueft. On
the arrival of a ftranger they contend one with another for the pleafure of |
taking him to their home, and entertaining him. Thus, in acts of hof.
pitality, they expend their incomes. I happened ‘once to be in Soghd,
and there I faw a certain palace, or great building, the doors of which
were faftened back with nails againft the walls. 1 afked the reafon of
this, and they informed me that it was an hundred years and more fince
thofé doors had béen fhut, all that time they. had continued open day
and night, ftrangers might arrive there at the moft unfeafonable hours,
or in any numbers, for the mailer of the houfe had provided every
thing neceffary both for the men and for their beafts; and he appeared
pe a delighted and joyful countenance when the guefts tarried a
while.
‘In all the regions of the earth there is not a more flourifhing or a
more delightful country than this, efpecially the diftri& of Bokhara. If
a perfon ftand on the Kohendiz (or ancient caftle) of Bokhara, and caft
his eyes around, he fhall not fee any thing but beautiful and luxuriant ver.
dure on every fide of the country: fo that he would imagine the green
of the earth and the azure of the heavens were united: and as there are
green fields in every quarter, fo there are villas interfperfed among the
green fields.
“‘ Phe walls and buildings, and cultivated plains of Bokhara, extend
above thirteen farfang, by twelve farfang : and the at ae: for eight days
journey, is all delightful country, affording fine profpects, and full of
dens, and orchards, and villages, corn fields, and villas, and running
reams, refervoirs, and fountains, both on the right hand and on the left.
‘¢ You pafs from corn fields into rich meadows and pafture lands; and
the fruits of Soghd are the fineft in the world *."’
pa nn nna o>
‘
ARABIA.
CHAPTER I.
Boundaries. — Population. — Progrefiive Geography. — Hiflorical Epochs,—
Religion. — Government. — Manners and Cuftoms.— Dre/t.— Language.
— Education. — Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Manufa@ures. — Pre
- duds, — Commerce.
HE laft remaining country of the wide Afiatic continent is Arabia,
a region more highly celebrated than precifely known. By the an-
cients it was divided into three unequal portions; Petrza, or the Stoney,
a finall province on the N. of the Red fea, between Egypt and Palettiv,
igcaied from its bare granitic rocks and moumtains, the molt remarkable
of which is Sinai; Arabia Deferta was the eaftern part, fo far‘as knowa
.©.Bba Haukal, by Sir Win, OQufcley, p. 294, '
Q
to the ancien
fhores of the
Bounparr
Red Sea, or.
extends a con
continued by
limits are lefs
rife to an an
which is not’.
the S.E. angle
Petraea.
From the ca
the length is n
be about 800.
The central
defert, called }
{mall portions
contains Mecca
Babelinandeb ;
Omon, on the
Hajar, the He
gulf. :
PopuLATion,
bians being the
robable Father
inguages are int
dif erent.in form
neighbours in th
rians were the m
modern philofopt
to infer fuperior
Situated in a co
rope; and in the
and Perfian ulfs
hould occation ti
of Tyre had expl
to have difcovere
the lefs furprife,
are a molt fagaci
fpirit and valour,
invader; and who
flame of freedom,
mountains, In cor
of their ancient pri
ry Afr ica, and i
Egypt
Ores towards th
Pear to have Maan A
tothe ancients; while Arabia the Happy comprifed the S.W. on the
fhores of the Red fea. -
Bounparies.} The boundaries on the W. and S. are marked by the
Red Sea, or Arabian gulf, and the Indian ocean: while the Perfian gulf
extends a confiderable way on the E. and this boundary is confidered as
continued by the deferts to the weft of the Euphrates. The northern
limits are lefs flrongly marked; but both in ancient and modern times
rife to an angle about an hundred miles to the E. of Palmyra,
which is not’ included in Arabia. Thence the line proceeds S.W. to
the S.E. angle of the Meditterranean, a northern boundary of Arabia
Petraea.
From the cape of Babelmandeb to the extreme angle on the Euphrates,
the length is not lefs than 1800 B. miles; while the medial breadth may
beabout 800. . ga
‘The central part of Arabia is filled with the vaft province, or rather
defert, called Neged, occupying almoft the whole country except a few
fmall portions towards the fhores, as Hejaz on the Red Sea, which
contains Mecca and Medina, Yemen on the S. towards the ftraits of
Babelmandeb ; Hadramaut on the fhores of the Indian ocean, and
Omon, on the S. of the entrance of the Perfian gulf; with Lahfa, or °
Hajar, the Hejer of D’Anville, on the weftern fhores of the fame
ulf. ;
PoruLATION.] The population is original and indigenous, the Ara-
bians being the fame race with the Affyrians of remote antiquity, the
robable fathers of the Syrians, Egyptians, and Abyffnians, .whofe
tin uages are intimately allied, as is that of the Hebrews; being totally
different.in form and ftru@ture from that of the Perfians, their powerful
neighbours in the E. By all accounts, facred and profane, the Affy-
rians were the moft ancient civilized and commercial people ; and when
modern philofophy is divefted of its prejudices, there will be no reafon
toinfer fuperior pretenfions from China, and far lefs from Hindoftan,
Situated in a country nearly central, between Afia, Africa, and Eu-
rope; and in the wide intercourfe of the Mediterranean, and the Arabian
and Perfian gulfs; it was natural that the variety of produ€tions and wants
fhould occafion the :firt rife of commerce in Syria; and the merchants
of Tyre had explored the fhores of Britain, while the Chinefe feem not
to have difcovered thofe of Japan. This early civilization will excite
the lefs furprife, when it is confidered that even the modern Arabians
are a moft fagacious and intelligent race of men, remarkable alfo for
fpirit and valour, whofe country alone has never been fubdued by any
invaders and who alone, of all Afiatic nations, have preferved the hrcred
flame of freedom, which their progenitors kindled in their inacceffible
mourtains. In comparatively modern times they have vindicated the fame
of their ancient pre-eminence by giving religion and laws to half of Afia
and Africa, and a great. part of’ Porogm he Arabian chalifs in Spain,
Africa, and Egypt, as well as at Bagdad, cultivated the arts and fciences
and fhewed'a great fuperiority to the barbarous powers of Europe at
that period, From Samarcand to the centre of Africa the Arabian lan-
guage and manners are held in veneration.
_ Prooussstve GrooraPny.] This diftinguifhed country is known
in the earlieit records of hiitory and geography 3 and being cele.
brated for produéts which could only be procured by navigation,
muft have been no ftranger to mercantile enterprize on its furtheft
fhores towards the Indian ocean. Strabo, and even Eratofthenes, ap-
pear to have known the ies 1: coafts, though not fo diltinél .
i3 thofe
f
486 ARABIA. ,
thofe on the eaft of the Arabian gulf. Ptolemy’s defcription of Arabis
evinces a confiderable portion of accurate knowledges and of the in.
terior parts, as well as thofe of Afvica, he, probably from his refidence
and opportunities in Epypt, had acquired a knowledge far fuperior to
any potfeffed ‘at the prefent moment. He has, however, eatly dimi-
nifhed the length of the Arabian gulf; and by increafing the fize of the
Perfian has confiderably injured the juft form of the country. Some
of thefe errors have been rectified by the later Arabian geographers, and
our knowledge of the interior of the country has received confiderable
additions from the fame authors. Yet even the juft geography of the
fhores is recent, and hag been improved fince the time of D’Anville,
Niebuhr, to whom we are indebted for the belt account of this country,
penetrated but a little way into the interior ; and many difcoveries here
‘remain for the enterprizing traveller : but the paflage is extremely diffi.
cult, the country being‘divided among a furprifing number of Imatrs and
Sheiks, who often carry on petty wars, and plunder all ftrangers that
fall into their hands. :
Historica erocus.] The hiftorical epochs of this people might
be traced from the Afiyrian empire, the moft ancient on record, the
A ffyrians being only a northern branch of the Arabs. But the hiftory
of interior Arabia is obfcure, till the time of Mahomet ; and their tra.
ditional fongs chiefly celebrate Antai, a hero renowned like the Ruflan
of the Perfians. Arabia never appears to have been united either in a
_ fepublic, or under one monarch, except in the time of Mahomet and his
facceflors ; and the traditions of the petty ftates cannot be interefting,
The kingdom of Yemen, or the S. W. oe has been repeutedly
fubdued by the Abyffinians, the Perfians, the fultans of Egypt, and
. the Turks *; being feparated from the interior by deferts, as well as
mountains : bat the wide inland countries of Neged have defied all in.
vafion, and, far from being conquered, are almoft unknown. Yet
Niebuhr informs us that Arabian traditions faintly indicate that the
whole country was ‘fabject in the earlieft times to a race of monarchs
called Tobba, like the Pharaohs of Egypt, worfhippers of fire frdm
the country of Samarcand, who vanquifhed Arabia, and introduced
civilization.
Ruticion.] The ancient idolatry of Arabia has been''explained by
the writers on the life of Mahomet ; and hy-nan facrifices'‘appear to have
been offered by ‘the natives of this country, as well as by their brethren
the Syrians and Carthaginians. Sabianifm afterwards {pread from
Chaldea. ‘Nor was the Chriftian religion unknown before the appearance
of Mahomet, whofe fyftem was foon diffufed throughout Arabia. Be.
fides the Suunis there is here a confiderable fe& called the Zecidites,
who in moft points agree with the former, but feem’ rather more lax in
their faith and practice. About the middle of laft century a fheik of
Yemen, called Mekkrami, eftablithed a kind of new fe& of Mahome.
tanifm ; and about the fame period what may be called a new religion was
" €ommenced ih the provinge El Ared, in the central divifion of Neged,
by Abdul Wahheb+ ; which 2 the latelt accounts begins to make con-
fiderable progrefe under his fucceffors. He is faid to have taught
that ‘God alone fhould be adored and invocated ; while the mention
-@f Mahomet, or any other prophet, he confidered as approaching to
idolatry,
® Gibbon, Ix. $0.
7 Niehuhe Defesip. de l’Arabie, Copenhieg. 1773, 4to. p. 998,
Govenx
which, though p
Govern}
and Sheiks, ;
of Yemen wh
plying Vicar,
Turks implies
of juftice.. B
{uperior dignit
prophet in Pe
nymous with
ful “ ‘The in
merely implyin
pat J
The throne
independent po
affairs +. He.
be called defpot
but the caufe n
fitting of fever,
fhews a defpoti
rank are the I
men. The gov
birth, Walis,
Pafha. The cl
called Sheik ; a
little villages Hi:
thofe in Turke
Arabia the princ
computed at 4c
ufual in the eatt,
in general are ve
of matting.
MANNERS AN
bitants are for t
frequently defcri
Yemen have beet
will probably, af
the moft interefti
Arabia Felix of
but more often }
that peftilence of
fians, and there a
mon falutation is
nouncing which
form is feldom ad
OF
fun, the Arab is
ceeding arepaft d
with camels’ milk
This bread of dur
which, though pleafant, they thi
ARABIA. : 487
GovernMENT.] This country is divided among numerous Imams
and Sheiks, an idea of whofe government zy be drawn from that
of Yemen which is defcribed by Niebuhr. The title of Jmam, im-
lying Vicar, that is of Mahomet, is ecclefiaftic ; and among the
Turks implies a common prieft, while the Mulla prefides in a court
of juftice.. But among the Perfians and Arabs the title Imam is of
{uperior dignity, as the twelve Imams, or genuine fucceffors of the
prophet in Perfia; while in Arabia the word. is confidered as fyno-
nymous with Chalif, and Emir El Mumenin, or Prince of the Faith-
ful*. ‘The inferior governments are condu&ted by -Sheiks, a term
merely implying old men, and feems rarely mingled with the eccletiattic
character.
_ The throne of Yemen is hereditary ; and the Imam, or Emir, an
jndependent power, acknowledging no ‘fuperior in fpiritual or temporal
affairs +. He poffeffes the prerogative of peace and war; but cannot
be called defpotic, as he cannot deprive even a Jew, or a Pagan of life,
but the caufe mutt be tried before the fupreme tribunal of Sana, con-
fiting of feveral Cadis, while he is only prefident. ‘When an Emir
fhews a defpotic difpefition he is. commonly dethroned. The next in
rank are the Fakis, a title fo lax as feemingly only to denote gentle-
men. The governors of diftri€ts are called Dolas; or, if fuperior in
birth, Walis. The Dola in fome degree correfponds with the Turkith
Paha. The chief magiftrate of a {mall town withoyt a garrifon is
called Sheik ; as a fuperior governor is fometimes called Emir, and in
little villazes Hakim. In each diftri&t there is alfo a Cadi; who, like
thofe in Turkey, are judges of ecclefiaftic and civil affairs; but in
Arabia the prince himfelf is the high prieft. His army, in peace, was
computed at 4000 infantry and 1000 cavalry; the foldiers being, as
ufual in the eatt, ‘without uniforms. There is no navy, and the veflels
in general are very rudely conftruéted, thofe of Yemen having fails made
of matting. |
MANNERS AND cusToMs.] ‘The manners and cuftoms of the inha-
bitants are for the moft part fimilar t. thofe of the other Beduins, fo
frequently defcribed by numerous travellers. Thofe of the country of
Yemen have been accurately delineated by Niebuhr ; and this province
will probably, after the utmoft difcovery, continue to be regarded as
the moft interefting portion ; reprefenting, as Gibbon has obferved, the
Arabia Felix of antiquity. In Yemen murder is punifhed with death,
but more often left to private revenge, which occafions family feuds,
that peftilence of fociety. In politenefs tle Arabs vie with the Per-
fians, and there are {till remains of. their ancient hofpitality. The com-
mon falutation is the Salam Alekum, or peace be with you: in pro-
nouncing which words they raife the right hand to the heart, but this
form is feldom addreffed to Chriftians. On meeting in their wide deferts
the falutations are multiplied ; and the hand of a {uperior is kiffed in
token of refpeét, The houfes, though of ftone, are meanly con-
ru€ted ; the apartments of the men being in front, thofe of the wo-
men behind, OF a middle ftature, thin, and dried as it were by the
fun, the Arab is moderate in his food, the common people feldom. ex-
ceeding arepaft of bad bread made from durra, a kind of millet, mixed
with camels’ milk, oil, butter, or greafe; the only drink being water.
This bread of durra cuftom has taught them to prefer to that of barley,
ak unfubftantial. Meat is little ufed,
® Niebubs, 129. ¢ Ib. 170
Lig even
-
. noted drink is coffee, which they prepare like:the Turks, by burning
by the rich, who deem it unhealthy ina hot climate. The erientals
fn geal Reig water-drinkers they are véry fond of paltry, ‘he mot
it i an, and then bruifing ina ftone or wooden mortar, In
als it la vandly ufed, as in shuais' opinion it heats the blood ; but of
the fhells, or hufke of the coffee, they prepare. a liquor in the manner
of tea. The moft diftinguifhed Arabs ufe porcelain from China, while
the common people have recourfe to earthen ware. Spirituous liquors,
though forbidden, are not abfolutely unknown ; and they fometimes
fmoke a plant refembling hemp, which produces intcxication ; nor is
tobacco neglected, which is {moaked either in the Turkifi or Periian
nner.
Daves] The drefs, like that of the Turks and Hindoos, is long,
often with large trowfers, a girdle of embroidered leather, anda knife,
or dag er. Over the fhoulder is worn a large piece of fine linen,
originally defigned to keep off the fun. The head drefs feems op,
reflive, eonfifting of ‘ feveral bonnets, from ten to fifteen, fome of
inen, others of cotton and woollen, the outmoft being often richly
embroidered with gold ; and around this multitude of bonnets is wrapped
whatgthey call a fafch, being a large piece of muflin, with fringes of
filk or gold, which hang down behind. ‘The women ftain their nails
red, and their feet and Sands of a yellowith brown, with henna: the
eye lathes are darkened with antimony, as in many other oriental: coun.
tries; and every art is exerted to render the eye brows large and
black. “Polygamy is confined to the rich: and throughout the whole
Mahometan regions is far lefs general than is commonly fuppofed in
Europe. ‘ . .
GUAGE.] The language of the Arabs was, even in ancient
timen divided ss feveral dia e€ts, as may be fufpected from its wide
diffufion. Even in Yemen there are fubdivifions ; and polite peopl
ufe a different enunciation from the vulgar. The language of the
Koran is fo different from the modern {peech of Mecca, that it is
taught in the colleges there, at the Latin is at Rome, The chief
ts are now found among the wandering Arabs in the country of
Sof or Mareb, adjoining to Yemen on the E.* Some alfo appear
in the towns, where they amufe the company in coffee-houfes ; in
this, as in other refpeéts, refembling the Turkifh. The ancient tre:
fures of Arabian literature are weil known to the learned world ;
but few of thefe noble monuments were compofed in Arabia, being
moftly produced in the conquered countries. from Samarcand to Cor-
dova. .
~) Education is not wholly neglected, and many of
Pg scnchiougt can read and write; Thile thofe of rank epter-
tain preceptors to teach their children and young flaves. Near ever
mofque there is commonly a fchool, the ‘maftere, as well as the chil.
dren of the poor, being fupported by legacies. In the large atic
there are many other {chools, to which people of the middle =
fend their fons, who are taught to read, write, and account. The gins
are inftruéted apart by women. In the chief cities are colleges for
aftronomy, aftrology, philofophy, medicine, &c. : and in the little king.
dom of Yemen there are two univerfities, or celebrated nme
The interpretation of the Koran, -with the hiftgry of Mahomet an
@ Niebuhr, 93.
the
the firft chalife, {
language. :
CITIES AND Toy
laced with gold, t!
civilization, while
dering tribes. Th
being facred grour
we are obliged to
writers. Mecca ¢
coraba, and has nc
and populonfnefs
perftition, muft hay
unpromifing fituatio
ina plain about tv
barren mountains ;
of Zemzem is bitte
city; and grapes «
dens of Tayef. T
in Meeca, were cor
grateful foil refufed
favourable to the en
the diftance only of
ence with Abyfinia,
peninfula to Gerrha
ait is faid, of roc
with the native pe
rafts ta to the mout!
equal diftance a mo
Syria on the left han
mer ftation of her ¢;
the harbours of Om:
laden with a precio
nufactures. was pure
lucrative exchange
and the nobleft of he:
merchandize *,??
The government of
poral prince ; and hij
metan fovereigns,
Medina ftands abo
latter, about ‘a day’s
according to Niebuhr
remarkable except fo
Sana, or Saana, i
Arabia, It is fituate
near which is a fpad
a one may. walk. ro
cult cannot exceed fi
occupied by garden
and there are feveral Pp
mon houfes are of b
tras, Or caravanferas,
rare, though there be
e Gibbon, ix. 9
ARABIA. 489
the firft chalifs, form an extenfive ftudy, the records being ‘in a dead
uage. i = ad
ae a AND Towns. ]_ Arabia has been compared to a cloak of frize,
laced with gold, the fkirts alone prefenting cities and other marks of
civilization, while the great. mafs of the country is poffefled by wan-
dering tribes. ‘The moit celebrated cities are Mecca and Medina; but
being facred ground, the infidels are not permitted. to approach ; and
we are obliged to truit to the inaccuracy and exaggeration of oriental
writers. Mecca ‘¢ was known to the Greeks under the name of Ma«
coraba, and has not, in the moft flourifhing period, exceeded the fize
and populoafnefs of Marfeilles, Some latent motive, perhaps of fu- ,
peritition, muft have impelled the founders in the choice of a moft
unpromifing fituation,+ They erected their habitations of mud or ftone,
in a plain about two miles long and one broad, at the foot. of three
parren mountains: the foil is a rock; the water even of the holy well
of Zemzem is bitter or ‘brackifh; the paftures are remote from the
city; and grapes are tranfported above feventy miles, from the gar-
dens of Tayef. The fame and fpirit of the Koreifhites, who reigned
in Meeca, were confpicuous among the Arabian tribes; but their un-
grateful foil refufed the labours of agriculture, and their pofition was
favourable to the enterprifes of trade. By the fea-port of Gedda, at
the diftance only of forty miles, they maintained an eafy correfpond-
ence with Abyfiinia. The treafures of Africa were conveyed over the
peninfula to Gerrha or Katif-in. the province of Bahrein, a city built,
ait is faid, of rock falt, by the Chaldean exiles: and from thence,
with the native pearls. of the Perfian gulf, they were floated on
rafts to to the mouth of the Euphrates. Mecca is placed almoft at an
equal diftance a month’s journey, between Yemen on. the right and
Syria. on the left hand, ‘The former was the winter, the latter the fum-
mer ftation of her caravans, In the markets:'of Saana and Merab, in
the harbours of Oman and Aden, the camele of the Koreifhites were
laden with a precious cargo of aromatics: a fupply of corn and ma-
nufatures was purchafed in the fairs of Boftra and Damafcus ; the
lucrative exchange diffufed plenty and.riches in the ftreets of Mecca;
and the nobleft of her fons united the love of arms with the profeffion of
merchandize *,”?
The government of this holy city is vefted ina fheref, who is a tem-
poral prince ; and his revenue w increafed by the donations of Maho-
metan fovereigns, .
Medina ftands about 200 B. miles N. of Mecca, being, as well as the
latter, about'a day’s journey from the fhores of the Red Sca. It is,
according to Niebuhr, a fmmall town, furrounded with a paltry wall, little
remarkable except for the tomb of Mahomet.
Sana, or Saana, in Yemen, is reputed at prefent the chief city of
Arabia. It is fituated at the bottom of a mountain called Nikkum,
near which is a f{pacious garden. ‘The city is not very extenfive,
a one may walk. round it in the fpace of an hour, fo that the cir-
cuit cannot exceed four miles; and: even of this {mall {pace a part
isoccupied by gardens-+. The walls are of brick, with feven gates;
and there are feveral palaces of burnt brick, or of ftone; but the com.
mon houfes are of bricks dried in the fun. There are feveral: fim-
feras, or caravanferas, for merchants and travellers, Fuel is extremely
rare, though there be fome pit-coal and peat; but woad is {carce ;
® Gibbon, ix. 227. - * » Nieb. Defe. 201.
even
oe
Pe mE SSE PIO PS eR EA ACN RAR
ee
490 ARABIA.
even in the Happy Arabia. There are excellent fruits, particularly
rapes of many varieties. About fix miles to the north there i
P any u e ere 18 a plea.
fone dale, enlivened with feveral rivulets ; and to the weft is a confider-
able ftream.
When fuch is the chief city of Arabia, the defcription of the others
cannot be very interefting. Judda, or Jedda, is the Resor of Mecca,
The town of Mocha ftands in the Tehama, or plain country of Yemen,
and was built about four centuries ago ; it is now chiefly frequented, on
account of its coffee, by Englifh veffels from Hindoftan. Kefem or
Kefchin, belongs to the country called Mahrah: to the theik of this
town the noted ifle of Socotra belongs, which is celebrated for aloes *,
The province of Omon is divided among many fheiks, but Rottac is
efteemed the capital. Mafkat is however the moft confiderable town,
and the beft known to Europeans, having an excellent harbour, and
being from early times a ftaple of trade’ between Arabia, Perfia, and the
Indies. It was taken by the Portuguefe in 1508, and they retained it
for acentury anda half. “It is vifited by Engiith fhips from Hindoftan;
and fuch is its confequence, that the Imam or prince of Omon is often
ftyled Imam of Mafkat.
Lahfa, the capital of the province fo called, is a large and well built
town, ftanding ona torrent, which falls into a confiderable bay oppofite
to the ifle of Bahrin, celebrated for the pearl fifhery +.
Eprrices.] Among the chief edifices of Arabia mutt be named the
Kaba, or temple of Mecca, which, according to the reprefentation of
Niebuhr, rather-refembles the old. Afiatic temples of Hlindoftan and
Siam than a mofque, being an open fquate, encompaffed with a colonade,
and ornamented with minarets, as the others are with pyramids or
obelifks. In this open fpace, which, as well as that of Medina, it feems
improper to call a-mofque, there are five or ‘fix houfes of prayer, or
chapels ; while in the centre is a {mall {quare edifice, peculiarly {tyled
the. Kaba, in which is fixed a black ftone, the early obje& of Arabian
adoration. :
Manvracrures, &c.] The manufactures of Arabia are of littl
‘confequence, though the people be moft ingenious and: induftrious when
‘encouraged by government and opportunities, Even in Yemen the
works in gold and filver, and the coinitfelf, are produced by Jewith ma-
nufa@tories. In all Arabia there are neither wind-mills nor water-mills,
Some mufquets are made in-the country, ‘but they are mere matchlocks
of mean execution. At Mocha there is one glafs houfe and there are
in Yemen fome coarfe linen manufaétures. The. ancients vainly
affigned to Arabia the fappy many’ produéts which the inhabitants
imported from the Eaft Indies ; but aloes, myrrh, frankincenfe, though
of inferior kind ¢, conftitute, with doffee, the chief produtts of
Arabia.
Commerce.] The Arabian intercourfe with Hindoftan has greatly
declined firice the difcoveries of the Portuguefe, whofe fuperior fkill and
maritime force eclipfed the {mall veffels of the Arabs, From Yemen
are exported coffee, aloes, myrrh (the beft of which is from Abyflinia),
olibanum, or an inferior kind of frankincenfe, fenna, ivory, and gold
4rom Abyflinia. The European imports were iron, fteel, cannon, lead,
tin, cochineal, mirrors, knives, fabres, cut glafs, and falfe pearls. Nie»
ur regards aloes and frankincenfe,'(the latter chiefly from Hadramaut),
-
© Nicbuhr, 248, + Ib. 294. o .
t Niebuhr, 1265 even'this fubflance was chiefly from Abyffinia and the Eaft Indies.
which
rifes near Sana, a
which borde:
. Felix, as ‘th
ule *,
Chmate and Se
— Mountai;
C uriofities. 7
CLIMATE ANI
June to the en
with clouds fo:
the year a clot
mountains, the
the middle of
February to tl
times unknown
meter will be g
the wind from *
inthe northern
of the burning
Face or Ty
acentral defert
Africa ; while |
the fea, which
Yemen there at
and unwooded ;
trait with tho
se flrea
andfcape,
SOIL AND AG
dicated ; but a:
Wheat, maize, ¢/
the fugar cane,
indigo and, Ind
yields little more
ceeds that ftanda
of the fpade,
the lands from t¢
harvelt is torn up
reaped near Sana
fitaation. At
me in March,
IVERS.] [|
Euphrates and T
by lome geograp
rabian river,
torrents, ‘which ¢
nort period after
ams of Yeme
often
built
pofite
ed the
ion of
an and
onade,
ids or
. feems
yer, OF
ftyled
Arabian
f little
is when
en the
vith mae
br-mills,
hlocks
ere are
vainly
abitants
‘though
mets of
reat!
FN i
Yemen
yflinia),
nd old
only ead,
8 Nie»
amaut),
ndies.
which
ARABIA. me _ 4gr
which borders eaftward on Omon, and mutt alfo be included in Arabia
Felix, as the only native articles of commerce before coffee came into
ule *,
CHAPTER II.
Chmate and Seafons.— Face of the Country.— Soil and Agricultures — Rivers.
— Mountains. — Deferts.-—Botany.— Zoology.— Mineralogy. — Natural
Curiofities. — Tfles. ;
N the mountains of Yemen there is a ree
gular rainy feafon, from the middle of
June to the end of September: but even then the {ky is rarely covered
with clouds for twenty-four hours at.a time ; and during the remainder of
the year a cloud is fcarcely to be feen. At Mafkat, and in the eaftern
mountains, the rainy feafon extends from the middle of November to
the middle of February; and in Omon there is rain from ‘the middle of
February to the middle of April. Inthe plains of Yemen rain is fome;
tines unknown for a whole year; and in july and Auguit the thermo-
meter will be 98°, while at Sana in the mountains it is85?. In general
the wind from the fea is moift, and that from the interior deferts is dry,
inthe northern parts of which are chiefly percéived the difaftrous effects
of the burning wind called Samiel. :
Face or THE countTRY.] The general afpe& of Arabia prefents
acentral déefert of great extent, with a few fertile oa/es, or ifles, as in
Africa ; while the flourithing provinces are thofe fituated on the fhores of
the fea, which fupplies rain fufficient to maintain the vegetation. In
Yemen there are mountains of confiderable height, ‘but chiefly ‘barren
and unwooded ; while the temperature and plants form a ftriking con-
trait with thofe of the plains: yet the want of rivers, lakes, and
eds flreams, muft diffufe ideas of fterility ‘through the Arabian
ndfcape.
Soin Awd AGRICULTURE.] ‘The nature of the foil ‘has. not been in.
dicated ; but ayriculture is occupied in the produétion of beautiful
wheat, maize, dubs a kind of maillet, ‘barley, beans, ‘lentils, rape; with
the fugar cane, tobacco, and cotton. A few dyeing drugs, efpecially
indigo and, Indian madder, are alfo cultivated. The grain in general
yields little more than, ten for one; but the durra fometimes greatly ex.
ceeds that ftandard. The plough is fimple ; and the pick is ufed.inftead
of the fpade. The chief exertion of agricultural induftry is to water
the lands from the givulets and wells, or by conducting the rains. ‘The
harvelt is torn up by the roots, and forage cut with the fickle. Barley is
reaped near Sana in the middle of July ; but the feafon deperds on the
fitaation, At Mafkat wheat and ‘barley are fown in. Decembeg, and
reaped in March. -
Ivers.} In the defect of rivers ftriftly belonging to Arabia, the
Epbrites and Tigris, which'pafs through Irak Arabi, have been claimed
by fome geographers ; and the Euphrates may be aptly confidered as an
Arabian river. ‘But in Arabia Proper what are called rivers are mere
torrents, which defcend from the mountains during the rains, and fora
fhort period afterwards, The moft important river is probably that which
rifes near Sana, and joins the Indian fea below Harjiah. ‘The fmaller
ams of Yemen may be traced in Niebubr’s map of that coun-
@ Niebuhr, 243,
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ]
tty.
492 : ARABIA.
try. The little river of Krim flows from Mahrah into the fame fea, atid
is fullowed by two:or three brooks in.Omon. One or two fmall faline
lakes occur in fituations encircled with hills, which prevent the water from
pafiing. _ '
Mountatns.] The chief range of mountains feems to ‘proceed in the
direction of the Red Sea; towards the N. not more than 30 miles diftant
but fometimes in the S. about 150, a circumftance which imparts extent
and fertility to Yemen. The hills of Omon feem a continuation of thofe
on the other fide of the Perfian gulf: and the ifles in the mouth of that
gulf may be regarded as fummits of that range. In the country of Seger,
. commonly afcribed to Hadramaut, there is a range of hills remarkable
for the produ& of frankincenfe. ' Syn
The direGtion of the other ranges cannot be afcertained in the im.
perfect geography of the country. In the divifion called Arabia Petra
the celebrated mountain of Sinai muft not be omitted, which prefents twa
fublime fummits of red granite. sé:
Deserts.] The fandy deferts of Arabia are more ftriking objeéts than
the mountains. From Omon to Mecca the greater part of Neged is one
pred ious defert, interrupted towards the frontiers of Hejaz and Yemen
y Kerjé, containing the dilftri& of Surfa, and fome fertile {pots and
towns, indicated by Niebuhr. The N. W. part of Neged prefents almot
a continued defert, a prolongation as appears of the other, with an caf,
Ared on the W. of Lahfa, including Jabrin, and fome other places men.
tioned by the fame author. In this defert there is alfo the oafis of mount
Schamer, and perhaps feveral others, which may remain for a long time
unknown to geography.
Botany. } The greater part of Arabia being compofed of dry barren
deferts of fand, wholly deftitute.of rivers, and containing but here and
there a few fcanty {prings of brackith water, offers no adequate recom.
pence to botanical invettigations. The vegetables in thefe diftriéts are
of rare occurrence, and confift chiefly of the faline fucculent {pecies able
to endure the full force of a vertical fun, with no other refrefhment than
what is afforded by the nightly dews. The greater prt of them have
little external beauty, and when found in more propitious climates obtain
notice only from their fingularity : here, however, they ferve to mitigate
the thirft of the parched camel, and to keep up the {pirits of the toiling
caravan, by breaking in occafionally on the melancholy: uniformity of the
defert. A more interefting {cene however is prefented to the botanift on
the weftern fide of the Arabian defert ; here numerous rivulets defcend
from the mountains into the Red Sea, and fcatter with a lavith hand
fragrance and verdure wherever they flow: the-mountains themfelves too,
‘whence thefe ftreams originate, abound in vegetation; fo that the plants in
this part of Arabia may be conveniently diftributed into three claffes,
fiamely thofe that inhabit the fea fhore, the plains, and the mountaips.
The firft of thefe divifions bears a near affinity to the fcanty flora of the
defert :.a fandy foil impregnated with falt, and an open expofure to the
influence of the fun, produce fimilar effe&ts in both fityations. The
champaign country between the fhore and the mountains, though traverfed
by ftreams, is yet too deficient in water to fupport the luxuriant vegeta-
tion that diftinguifhes the plains of India; the lower pete are chiefly
occupied by graffes and other humble pane, which afford a moft grateful
fuftenance to the flocks and herds of the paftoral tribes that wander over
them, The fides of the rivers, the valleys among the mountains, and the
plains at their feet, are far fuperior to the reft of the country. Here
cultivation and nature feem to contend with each other in the net of
, thew
their prodution
Many of the Ind
ule, have been t
truly indigenous
cotton tree, the
cane, and a mult
gourds. ‘T'wo y,
Felix, namely, t
opobalfamum, fra
grant and cottly ¢
_ Arabia, although
among the mount
and the great fan
and apricot, the
orange, nearly cor
Thelift of fhrubs.a
be interefting to t
ticularized the rici
and the white lily
and fragrance.
Zoo.ocy.} Th
to Zimmerman thi:
N. of Hadramaut ?
Kadifbi, or commo
the Kochlani, or Hah
thoufand years, pr
Thefe will bear the
lving-on air, to uf
afoe with impetuo
when wounded in |
my be fecure; a
Kochlani are neithe
garded their race
elimation, They ;
deferts between Pe:
carefully and authen:
Kallion with an ignol
are fometimes bough
Walfo in this country
qualities to the mule,
This region, or A
emphatically ttyled |
the expanfion of its
other qualities, pecul
bulate the fandy wat
The buffalo feems
and water ; but the c;
of fheep has no!
that both the wool an
found in the mountai
jakkal, or chacal ; the
keys in the woods of
fre'are alfo antelop
* Zoologia Ge
ARABIA. 493
their productions ; nor is it eafy to affign exactly the limits of each.
Many of the Indian and Perfian plants, diftinzuithed for their beauty or
ufey have been tranfported hither in former. ages, and are now found in a
truly indigenous {tate ; this is probably the cafe with the tamarind, the
cotton tree, the pomegranate, the banyan tree or Indian fig, the fugar
cane, and a multitude of valuable fpecies and. varieties of melons and
gourds, ° Two valuable trees however ,are the peculiar boaft of Arabia
felix, namely, the coffee, found both cultivated and wild, and the amyris
: opobalfamum, from which is procured the balm of Mecca, the moft fra-
grant and cottly of all the gum-refins. There are no proper forefts in
: Anbia, although groves and fcattered trees are by no means unfrequent
: among the mountains. Of the palms, it poffeffes the date, the cocoa nut,
and the great fan-palm. The fycamore fig» the plantain, the almond
if and apricot, the bead tree, the mimofa nilotica and fenfitiva, and the
. orange, nearly complete the catalogue of its native and cultivated trees.
: The lift of fhrubs.and herbaceous plants does not contain many that would
be interefting to the general reader; among thefe however may be par-
mn tiularized the ricinus, the liquorice, and the fenna, all afed in medicine ;
andthe white lily and greater pancratium, diftinguifhed for their beauty
4 and fragrance. :
: Zoo.ocy.] The horfe is the glory of Arabian zoology. According
ft to Zimmerman this animal is found wild in the extenfive deferts on the
i N.of Hadramaut *. They are here divided into two great claffes, the
ft Kadifbi, or common kind, whofe.genealogy has not been preferved : and
oe the Kochlani, or noble horfes, whote breed has been afcertained for.two
“ thouwfand years, proceeding as they fable, from the ftalls of Solomon.
Thefe will bear the greatelt fatigues and pafs whole days without food,
ai living-on air, to wfe the Arabian metaphor, They are faid to ruth on
afoe with impetuofity ; and it is aflerted that fome of this noble race,
“a when wounded in battle, will withdraw to a fpot where their mafter
ile may be fecure; and if he fall they will neigh for affiftance. The
Kochlani are neither large nor beautiful, nor 1s their fizure at all re-
ie girded; their race and hereditary qualities being the fole objeQs of :
at elimation. They are chiefly reared by the Beduins, in the northern
i deferts between Perfia and Syria. ‘The prefervation of the breed is
" carefully and authentically witneffed; and the offspring of a Kochlani
6 Hallion with an ignoble mare is reputed Kadifbi. The Arabian fteeds
n are fometimes bought at exceffive rates \ the Englifh at Mocha. There
ad is alfo in this country a fuperior breed of afles, approaching in form and
d qualities to the mule, and fold at high prices.
This region, or Africa, feems alfo the native country of the camel,
emphatically ityled by the orientals the fhip of the defert ; being, by
the expanfion of its fect, the faculty of bearing thirft and hunger, and
other qualities, peculiarly adapted by the author of nature to peram-
bulate the fandy waftes which would otherwife remain unpaffable.
The buffalo feems unknown, being an animal which delights in mud
and water ; but the cattle have generally a hunch on the fhoulder. The
breed of fheep has not been particularly illuftrated ; but it would appear
that both the wool and mutton are coarfe. The rock goat is faidto be
found in the mountains of Arabia Petra. The other animals are the
jakkal, or chacal; the hyena towards the Perfian gulf ; numerous mon-
eys in the woods of Yemeny the jerboa, or rat of Pharaoh, in Neged :
there'are alfo antelopgs, and wild oxen, with. wolves, foxes, and wild
Ss
* Zoologia Geographica, 17775 4to. p, 140 from Leo Aftic,
5 boars,
it ARABIA,
ll panther. The tiger feems utterly up.
peasants rier, nt ps beyond the Euphrates, ; Arhong the
ee be named the pheafant, common in the woods o Yemen, as
birds may ber dge is in the plains ; while the oftrich is no ftranger in the
the grey Pe his dof the thrufh kind, venerated becaufe, it deftroys the
deferts. thought to come annually from Corafan. Land tortoifes
pee ry d oe eaten by the Chriftians in Lent. , A little flender fer.
paid ‘led haetan, {potted with black and white, is.of a nature remark.
pent, ca 8 sib being inftant death. The locuft too is nume.
ably Lat rast hs natives efteem the red kind as a fat and juicy food,
peas ‘it with no more averfion than fhrimps or prawns are beheld
by us. : bia is of {mall importance,
"Misenavoor.] a ye i fil addisted to the infatuation of
Having no bea ‘oble whet rat d, except mingled, as ufual, with by in the
alchemy. - N There are fome mines of iron in the diftriG o Saade,
mines sag en but the metal is brittle. Thofe agates containing
_— rf bitances which from the town are called ape
Seomuhe in Surat *. The beft cornclians alfo come from the gulf of
brought — ‘Avalta produces onyxes in the province of mine
ial ifo appears near Loheia, Not one of the gems appears 4 ;
An in "At bia. Near Hamada, in f one it of Yemen calle
. : i f mineral Water.
Keakvbam, none - sore —— al, chctha (es sotnemne appearaes
voptcibig. seth ftyle natural 'curiofities, may, na youl, "" sa a
Siesruntckers » when ae Bap hc ee ny
: i furprifing tha stan
deficiency of water, it isnot , part a work of art, was regarded
ancient city af teres nove " : eet a is ftill the chief town of the
as a fingular ot i out 75 B. miles N.E. from Sana, pomtnaiog ‘ out
province of rst ith a wall and three gates. In an adjacent vale,a ih
goo mean hou ie vie were united fix or feven rivulets, running a the
(Ce hee Sorat partly from Yemen; and fome faid to e bain
were a il f fh. The two chains of mountains, satg mS
nial ftreams, re . winat:the-ealt end. thatthe {pace might vane ¢ ra
valey SDP “fie inutes; or was about a quarter of a mile. T a opens
in teaver: bea thick wall the water was retained, and imparte pai :
fied on a riculture. But the wall, conitruéted of mie fil
nite ae he height of forty or fifty feet, was neglecte . e is
fe ap ee kin aan ; and burft in the middle, leaving on her i
- Moth ee fo that the water is now loft,in the defert on the N,
on baie
Hadramaut. i ittle confequence in the Arabian gil
seen) tee it oatiinuibk entice wena acon
98 ‘les tate the fouthern coaft. of Arabia, appears x ke te mn
tb reerye that country, and to have been celebratec ren e
oe Sheen) ftill efteemed fuperior to any ane a ee C
8 : e two 8, a ded +
an a ee Pe tegniaes fran incenfe, ss 4n mei +
pee the "found in the neighbouring feas. The ifle of ne jas, a
reg alf ar the Arabian coalt, and remarkable for the g cllation
pas rn eighbourhood. The name Bahrin isa o— TP Th
foe fbultedes z well as the Arabs of Lahfa, call the large ifle
7
© Niebuhr, 125, —_
inhabitant
be properly fucceede
cic; which are far
by brief paffages wit
which may however }
fo a8 to be conneéted
minded that in this
occurs; for the ifland
atic iflands, enor
extent, as to embroil
prefent. only vague ¢
owever a proper arra
fome limit between t
inhabitants of A
fon. In the lar
there may be fo;
Gentral Arrangeme
AVING thu
Afia, fo far
dificult field of iny
ind thofe’ fituated
Ocean.
Thefe regions ar
ing of almoft-a new
of ifles in the Pacif
Afia, that they can:
ie fince obferved |
a century ago,
mmely New Holla
Ayled\ Aytralafia, an
reek term implying
or rather continent
lows that of Afia, ar
lope, are fufficie
§ the continent of
* Hiftoire des Navig
wlll ig
cular
es of
\ fall
ruins
1. of
gill,
t 240
es tv
pros
nts are
b har
erpris
inthe
peat
ation
1, The
pitant
ASIATIC ISLANDS. 495
inhabitants of Aual, and the fmallerif_les, are Arabs of the Chia perfua-
fon. In the large ifle there is a fortified towa ; and in the whole group
there may be forty or fifty mean villages.
ASIATIC ISLANDS.
INTRODUCTION. |
General Arrangement of the Afiatic I/lands, including Auftralafiaand Polynefa.
AVING thus completed the defeription of the wide. continent of
Afia, fo far as the limits afligned to this work would admit, a
dificult field of inveftigation opens in the innumerable Afiatic iflands,
ind thofe’ fituated in the Pacific, or more properly Great Orientah
Ocean.
Thefe regions are, however, of fo wide and diftin@ a nature, confift-
ing of almoft-a new continent in the fouth of Afia, and fcattered groups
of ifles in the Pacific, many of them nearer to South America than to
Afia, that they cannot well.be blended under one denomirfation, as wae
long fince obferved by. the learned prefident De Brofles, who, nearly
bil a century ago, propofed that the countries to the fouth of Afia,
namely New Holland, New Guinea, and New Zealand, &c. fhould be
flyled\ Auftralafia, and the numerous ifles in the Pacific i da from a
Greek term implying many iflands *, A defcription of the large ifland
or rather continent of New Holland with its: appendages naturally fol-
lows that of Afia, and the Afiatic iflands in the Indian ocean ; and will
be properly fucceeded by that of Polynefia, or the iflands in the Pa-
cific; which are far remote from the American coaft, but are connected
by brief paffages with Auitralafia, the Sandwich iflands alone excepted, |
which may however be followed by groups to be difcovered to the 5..W.
fo as to be conneéted with Polynefia. The reader needs fcarcely be re-
minded that in this quarter alone of the world this remarkable exception
occurs ; for the iflands belonging to both Americas, to Africa, and to
Europe, are fufficiently diftin& arid appropriated, while the name of
Afiatic iflands, enormous as Afia itfelf, might be diffufed to fuch an
extent, as to embroil the utmoit powers of geographical defcription, and
prefent. only vague confufion, inftead of fcientific precifion. Before
however a proper arrangement can be followed, it will be proper to fix
fome limits between the Indian‘and Pacific Oceans. ae
As the continent of America divides the Atlantic, or Great Weftern
ean, from the Pacific, or Great Eaftern Ocean, (both fo termed in re-
htion to the ancient and civilized world,) and as Africa divides the At-
hntic from the Indian ocean, fo, by parallel ufage and deduction, what is
alled New Holland may be confidered as the fixed divilion between the
Indian and Pacific, thus claiming with juftice the authority of a conti-
tnt, wafhed by the Indian ocean on the weft, and the Pacific on the eait ;
* Hiftoire des ‘Navigations aux Tertes Auftreles. Pais, 1756, 2 vole. ato,
while
Pore
'
496 ASIATIC ISLANDS.
while a line drawn from the moft prominent central capes, in the North
ard South, may be regarded as a boundary of thefe two oceans, The
fouthern extenfion of this imaginary line is of little moment 3 but in the
north it mult be confidered asa divilion of great importance to precife
difcuffion, as the ifles on the weft mutt be confidered as {triGly A fiatic,
and intimately conneéted with the defcription of Afia: while thofe onthe
right belong to Autftralafia and Polynefia. This divifion muft naturally
and unavoidably depend on the obfervation of the wideft channel between
the Molucca Iflands *, and Papua, or New Guinea: and the degree of
longitude, 130’ from London, feems nearly to amount to a boundary,
Hence Amboyna belongs to the Afiatic ifles, while Timor-laut belongs
to Auftralafia. The meridian of boundary paffes through Ceram; but
the proximity of that ifle to Amboyna may properly conneé it with the
Afiatic iflee, with which Myfol may alfo be claffed. From the N.W.
extremity of Papua, or rather fome {mall iflands lying at that extremity,
a clear line may be drawn, Sonning ste fame meridian, and leaving Gi.
lolo among the Afiatic ifles on the W. and thofe of Pelew among the Po. ‘
lynefian in the Pacific. This line then bending N.W. would include the
Philippine iflands and the Bafhees, paffing to the S. of Formofa; the
other limits and appellations being fufficiently clear.
Such may therefore be the aflumed boundary between the Indian
ocean and Chinefe fea on the W. and the Pacific on the E. and between
the Afiatic ifles, and Auftralafia and Polynefia, The boundary be.
tween the two latter great divifions may be traced by regarding what
is called New Holland as a continent, or great leading ifland, with
which thofe moft adjacent mutt be saandel as connected. Hence
Papua belongs to Auttralafia: and a line drawn in the latitude of three
or four degrees to the N. of the equator, and then pafling S. in the
meridian of 170° E. from Greenwich, fo as to include the New
Hebudes, thence in the parallel of 30° S. eg ttretching to
175° W. from Greenwich, including New Zealend, and the ifle called
Chatham, will prefent the natural and precife boundary of Auf
tralalia.
That divifion called Polynefia, by far the moft extenfive, adjoins the
W. to the line above drawn around the Afiatic ifles ; thence it afcends
about lat. 18° long. 128’ E. in a north-ealt dire&tion, fo as to include
the ifle called Rica de Plata, long. 161°, and thence curving S. E, and
encompaffing the northern Sandwich iflands, where our great navigator
fell +, and the Marquefas, and extending to 120° W. from London.
Any ifles to the N. E. or E. of this line of demarkation may be regarded
as belonging to North or South America.
The fouthera boundary of the Afiatic ifles may be confidered as fuf-
ficiently afcertained by the wide channel between them and New Hol-
land; while the N. W. extremity of Sumatra may prefent a meridian of
feparation on the W. between the Afiatic ifles, eminently fo‘ftyled, and
thofe in the Indian ocean, T'he fame weftern boundary may be afligned
to Auftralafia.
The fouthern limits of the laft, and of Polynefia, alone remain;
but as few or no iflands have been difcovered to the S. of New Zea
Naat %¢ parallel of 50° S. lat. may be laftly aflumec as the boundary
of bot :
# This name, originally eonfined to five fmall ilands, has been extended by the French
ra to @ large group bewween Borneo and New Guinea.
+ ‘There are other Sandwich iflands, lat. 59° S., of bencath the parallel of Cape Hor.
Such is the perplexity of the received pomencisture, Polynel
olyn
Chinefe fea,
to any group; but t
ifands, as the Soolooa
precife group in thefe
nthe north, and Min
h
with Shull
the cebeninn ifles. f
five of {mall fize, on th
this appellation to Gilc
remaining ifles in the §
feem fufficient for a de
Tus divifion, as alr
in the vicinity of thefe,
in length, by about aco
Polynefia will th
is 85%, OF S100 g.
Pe Grekawich’
degrees, Or 3,600 |
The length of Ai
gitude to 185°. tha
the breadth lat. 3°)
- Even the {malle!
called the Oriental ,
22° N, lat. that is 3
long. to 132%, yield
refponding with the
Arrangement of th
Sumatran Cea
5 . Spice Dflands °
AY infpeCion of
thew that a gres
extends from Sumatr.
includes Sumatra, \ J
chief ies; with Su
Banca, &e. This c
nature, might either
or the received name
to this group : whicl
founds or paffages fr
Borneo, an ifland o
The Philippine iflan
There remains the ;
u
The Molucea iflands
Thefe five divifions
I. THE ISLES
bok, Sumbava, F!
umatra is an ifland g
ASIATIC ISLES. 497
Polynefia will thus extend fram 50° S, lat. to about 35° N. lat. that
is 85%, OF 5100 g. miles 5 while the breadth taken from long. 170° E.
from Greenwich, to 130° W. upon the equator itfelf, will yield fixty
degrees, or 3,600 g. miles. :
The length of Auftralafia may be computed from 95° of the fame lon- ‘
gitude to 185°. that is 90° in lat. 30, or nearly s000-g. miles; while
the breadth lat. 3° N. to lat. 50° S., will be 3,180 g. miles, °
Even the {malleft divifion, that of the Afiatic ifles, which has been
called the Oriental Archipélago, is of great extent from 13° S. lat. to
22” N. lat. that is 35°, or 2,100 g. miles ; while the length from 95° E.
long. to 132% yields 37 degrees not far from the equator, nearly cor-
refponding with the breadth.
ASIATIC ISLES.
Arrangement of thofe in the Oriental Archipelago. —1. Ifles of Sunda, or
Sumatran Chain. —2. Borneo.—3. Manillas.— 4. Celebexian Ifless
5. Spice Iflands. °
N infpeGtion of the mays and charts of this part of the globe will
A fhew that a great chain of iflands, connected with much proximity,
extends from Sumatra N. W. to Lackal or Lachal S.E. This chain
includes Sumatta,\ Java, Balli, Sumbava, Florez, and Timor, as the
chief ies; with Sumba in the. S., and in the N. Madura, Billiton,
Banca, &c. This chain, divided and diftinguifhed by the hand of
nature, might either be termed the Sumatran iflands, from the chief,
or the received name of ifles of Sunda may be extended and reftri@ed
to this group : which, befides the ftrait fo called, prefents many other
founds or paffages from the Indian ocean towards the Pacific and the
Chinefe fea,
Borneo, an ifland of vaft extent, fhould not. be confidered as belonging
to any group; but the fmall ifles around it may be termed the Bornean
ifands, as the Sooloos, Pulo Laut, Anumba, Natuna. 4
The Philippine iflands may already be regarded as the moft regular and
ptecife group in thefe feas, including the Bathecs, and ether little groups
inthe north, and Mindanao and Pu'awan in the fouth.
There remains the large ifland of Celebez, which nay be confidered as
grouped with Shulla, Boutan, Salayar, gc. and the whole may be termed
the Celebezian ifles. ; k
The Molucca iflands, an ancient and venerable name, are properly only
five of fmall fize, on the welt of Gilolo: but it feems proper to extend
this appellation to Gilolo, Myfol, Ceram, Amboyna and Banda. The
remaining ifles in the S. E. belong to Papua in Auttralafia.
Thefe five divifions are not only indicated by the hand of nature, but
feem fufficient for a defcription of this vaft archipelago. -
I. THE ISLES OF SUNDA, OR THE SUMATRAN CHAIN.
/
Tuts divifion, as already explained, comprifes Sumatra, Java, Balli,
Lombok, Sumbava, Florez, and Timor; with feveral ifles of lefs note
in the vicinity of thefe.
_ Sumatra is an ifland of great extent, being not lefs than 950 B. miles
inlength, by about aco in breadth ; for on fo val a {cale are the regions
Kk conne&ted
498 | | ASIATIC ISLES.
connected with Afia, that Great Britain, if fituated in the oriental arcty,
pelago, would only in fize rival Sumatra and Borneo. The Englifh
_ fettlement of Bencoolen, in the S.E. part of this ifland, has occafioned par.
ticular attention to its nature and productions, efpecially fince Mr. Marfden
publithed an ample and intelligent.account of this interefting ifland, from
tened, and theit
complexion is pi
titutes a tawny
fair, and commor
which this brief defcription hall be abftra&ted*. It was certainly un. The chief dift
known to the ancients, the information of Ptolemy terminating confider. feems ‘et: bs
ing is made af the
ably to the north, andthe mountain of Ophir, whence fome have fup-
octal this country known to Solomon, is a modern European denomina.
tion, The Arabs feem te have been acquainted with this ifland in the
oth century, but it became firft known to Europeans in the 16th. A
chain of mountains runs through the whole ifle, the ranges being in many
parts double and treble, generally nearer to the weftern coaft, where they
approach within twenty miles of the fea ; but the height is not fo confi.
derable as to retain fnow. Mount Ophir, immediately under the equi-
noétial line, is 1 30842 feet above the fea, only yielding about 2,000 feet
to mount Blanc. Between the ridges of mountains are elevated plains,
with lakes and waterfalls, one of which is from the fummit of a conic
mountain. ‘There are many rivers on the weftern.coaft, but commonly
impeded by fand-banks, fo as to prefent few means of navigation. - Inthe
midft of what is called the Torrid Zone the thermometer feldom rifes above
85°, while in Bengal it attains 101°; and the inland inhabitants of the
mountains ufe fires to difpel the morning cold ; yct froft, fnow, and hail
are unknown. Thunder and lightning are frequent, particularly durin
the N.W. monfoon. The year has two divifions, called the rainy i
dry monfoons; the S.E. or dry, beginning about May and ending with
September ; the N.W. or wet, ginning in November, and ending about
March ; the intermediate months, April and May, O&ober and Novem.
ber, being variable: on the weft coa{t the fea breeze begins about ten in
the forenoon, and continues till fix in she evening ; being fucceeded by
the land breeze during the night. The foil is generally Riff reddith clay,
covered with a layer of black mould, the fource of Rerpasons verdure ;
but three quarters of the ifle, efpecially towards fouth, prefent
an impérvious foreft. On the welt, between the mountains and the fea,
there are large {wamps ; but even here the face of the country is remark.
ably broken and uneven. There feem to be many mines of gold, though
moitly neglected ; and the copper is mingled with that metal. There are
excellent ores of iron and fteel; and that rare mineral, tin, is one of the
chief exports, being principally found near Palimbang on the eaftern thor,
a continuation probably of the rich beds of Banca. Gold is found nea
Bertcoolen, and in other places, but of inferior quality. The little-ifland
ef Poolo Pifang, clofe to the foot of mount Poogon, is moftly a bed of
rock cryftal. There are feveral volcanic mountains in Sumatra, as ia
mokt of the other iflands of the oriental archipelago, but eruptions are un-
frequent. The fea coat is chiefly occupied by the Malays, who feem to
be recent fettlers, and their language a dialect of a fpeech moft widely
extended, from Malacca, and perhaps the fouth of Hindoftan, nearly
far as the weftern coafts of America, through the innumerable iflands of
the Pacific. By the account of Mr. Mariden there are inland races, of
whom the Googoo are covered with long hair, and little fuperior to the
Orang Outangs of Borneo. The chief native fovereignty is that of
‘Menang Cabou, but the Rejangs feem to retain the purelt race and mar
ners. They are rather fhort and flender: the nofes of infants are fa
* Hillery of Sumatra, 1784, 410, 2d edit,
Malays conlifts o
which is the crees
{urrounded with {
The houfes are of
ing on pillars, an
fimple, and comm
than in the lands:
and hardy : the c
Bengal. Here ai
tiger, bear, otter,
ties of the manl
Among birds, the ,
The jungle fowl,
the fouth of remar]
of Java, which al;
feéts of all kinds
moft abundant. arti
being produced by
per is procured by |
phor is another rema
cinnamon, is found j
ported to Europe fa
salfo to be met wi
the moft beautiful
fnenefs, glofs, and d
fuperior to the lab
. brittlenefs of ¢
and wonly applie
mattrefles, ie nt
open when ripe, ‘T
without taite, The
perfely ftraight anc
mgs at the fume
and the feveral grada
top. Some traveller
furniture called a du
ecommerce is chi
cel in gold and filver
manufaures are imp
the Malays, feveral la
a manifett affinity a
Pech which may be
humerable iflands in t
other A fiatic ifles,
certain degree of gj
any Magittrates ; bu
gene,
‘
ASIATIC ISLES. 499
tened, and theit ears extended; but the eyes aré dark and clear. The
complexion is properly yellow, heing without the red tinge, which con-
itutes a tawny or copper colour: but the fuperior clais of women is
fair, and commonly of not unpleafing countenances.
The chief diftinétion between the natives and the Malays of the coaft
feems to be; that the former are fairer and ftronger. he original cloth-
ing is made of the inner hark of trees, as in Otaheite ; buit the drefs of the
Malays contifts of a velt, a robe, and a kind of mantle, with a girdle, in
which is the crees, or dagger. The villages are commonly on hills, and
{yrrounded with fruit trees, the balli, or common hall, being in the centre.
The houfes are of wood and bamboos, covered with leaves of palm, ftand-
ing on pillars, and fcaled by a rude ladder. The furniture is of courfe
finple, and common food rice: fago, though common, being lefs ufed
than in the iflands farther to the eaft. The horfes are fmall; but well made,
and hardy :_ the cows and fheep alfo diminutive, the latter probably from
Bengal. Here are alfo found the elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus,
tiger, bear, otter, porcupine, deer, wild hog, civet cat, with many varie-
ties of the mankey. The buffalo is employed in domeftic labour.
Among birds, the Sumatran or Argus pheafant is of diftinguifhed beauty.
The jungle fowl, or wild poultry, alfo appear ; and there is a breed in
thefouth of remarkable height, likewife tound in Bantam, on the welt
of Java, which alfo gives name to the well knowd fmall breed. In-
ets of all kinds fwarm, particularly the deltruétive termites. The
mot abundant article is pepper, the obje€t of the Britith fettlement ;
being produced by a climbing plant refembling a vine. The white pep-
per is procured by ftripping the outer hufk from the ripe grains. Cam-
phor is another remarkable vegetable produ& ; and caffia, a coarfe kind of
4 cinnamon, is found in the central parts of the country. Rattans are ex-
8 ported to Europe for walking canes, ‘ The filk cotton (bombax ceiba)
A by isalfo to be met with in every village. ‘Thi’ is, to appearance, one of
hay, the moft beautiful raw materials the hand of nature has prefented. Its
tinene(s, glofs, and delicate foftnefs, render it to the fight and touch much
fuperior to the labour of the filk worm: but, owing to the fhortnefs
and brittlenefs of the ftaple, it is efteemed unfit for the reel and loom,
and isonly applied to the unworthy purpofe of ftuffing pillows and
mattrefles, It grows in pods from four to fix inches long, which burit
open when ripe. The feeds entirely refemble the black pepper, but are
without taite. The tree is remarkable from the branches growing out
perfe&ly ftraight and horizontal, and being always three, forming equal
mgs at the fame height : the diminutive fhoots, likewife grow flat s
and the feveral gradations of branches obferve the fame regularity to the
top. Some travellers have called it the Umbrella tree, buc the piece of
furniture called a dumb waiter, exhibits a more ftriking picture of it *."”
The commerce is chiefly with Hindoftan and China. ‘I'he Malays ex-
cel in gold and filver fiagree, and in weaving filk and cutton ; but the
manufattures are imperfect, and the fcienccs little cultivated Befides
the Malays, feveral languages are fpoken, which feem however to have
manifett affinity among themfelves, and with that widely diffufed
beech which may be. called the Polynefian, as it is diffufed through ine
mumerable iflands in the Pacific. Even the rudett tribes of Sumatra and
he other Afiatic ifles, as far as the utmolt bounds of Polynetia, difplay
certain degree of civilization, The panjeran or prince prefides over
hany magiftrates ; but his government is limited, his power being cone
@ Marfien, 127,
Kka fined
500 ASIATIC ISLES.
fined by his poverty. Laws are unknown, the chief rendering ju
accontii tocuftoms. Moft crimes are compenfated by iets —
itfelf ‘not excepted. The difficulties attending marriage torm an exception
to the general cuftoms of uncivilized countries, and the general chattity
feems remarkable. . The celebration is commonly in the Ball, or village
hall, and is accompanied with dances and fongs. Combats of cocks and
quails are among thé moft favourite amufements, together with dances
dice, and other games. ‘The ufe of opium is extenfive, but rarely leads to
other exceffes, What is called a muck, by the natives mongamo, rather
roceeds from revenge, or a fenfe of oppreffion, than from intoxication,
he Chriftian religion is unknown in Sumatra, the miffionaries having
tanaccountably neglected this large ifland. The kingdom of Acheen jn
the N.W., extremity of the ifland carries on a.confiderable trade with the
coaft of Coromandel. The natives are more ftout and tall, and of a darker
complexion than the other Sumatrans. 3
: Several {mall ifles encompafs Sumatra. Banca is particularly celebrated
for its tin *. Of Billeton little is known ; nor of the ifles that lie between
Sumatra and Malacca, called Pitti, and other nimes, with the common
addition of Pulo, which in thefe feas appears to imply an ifland, being a
Malay term. On the W. the Naffaw or Poggy ifles have been lately noted
for their inhabitants, diffimilar from their neighbours, and approaching
the Otaheitans in the amiable fimplicity of their manners, as well as jn
their perfonal appearance, while their colour, like that of the Malays, is
light bowl or copper +. Java is not only an extenfive ifland, about 6s0 .
B. miles in length by about 100 of medial breadth, but is remarkable én
the city of Batavia, the celebrated capital of the Dutch pofleffions, 'Ihis
ifland, like the former, abounds with forefts, and prefents an enchanting
verdure.’ It feems alfo interfeed by a ridge of mountains, like a {pine,
pervading itslengtht. Batavia is ftrongly fortified with walls, anda
citadel towards the fea. There are many canals about four fect in depth,
and the tewn is large and well built. of ftone. This metropolis of the
oriental archipelago prefents many nations and languages ; and the Chinefe
conttitute the greater part of the inhabitants, being contented, for the
fake of gain, to forget the tombs of their anceftors, and the laws of their
country againft emigration. The Malay language, the French of the eat,
is hefe univerfally underftood. ‘The ttreets are planted with large trees,
which practice, with the Dutch canals, probably contributes to the un
“healthinefs of this fpot. ‘The heat is not fo intenfe confidered in itfelf,
being between 80° and 86’, as from the low fituation of the town, and
the murky exhalations from the bogs, canals, and a muddy fea, whence
‘from nine o'clock till four it is impoffible to walk out. The. fun being
nearly vertical, rifes and fets about fix throughout the year ; but the
noéturnal repofe is infelled by mofkitos, In the evening, from fix to
nine, parties are formed, and intemperance affifts the poifon of the
climate. The water is alfo of a bad quality; The air is fo unwhok.
fdme, from fetid fogs and other caufes, that dyfenteries and putrid
fevers deftroy prodigious numbers; and of three fettlers it is rare tha
one outlives the year. The rainy feafon begins with Decemh
and ‘latte till March, Crocodiles abound in the rivers, as in mott of
' # The induftrious tranflator of Stavorious, vol. {. p. 997, fays that thefe mines were
difcovered in 171@ oF 1711, and though the Dutch receive about three millions of po
weight, the vein feems inexhauitible, ; '
+ Af. Ref. vi. 77.
t Thun! erg, ii, 213. Fora tolerable map of Java fec the voyage of Stavorinus, 1793, '.
1a, where there is alfo a long aud minate defcription of the ifland,
onl
the oriental ifles,
chief bemg the: en
of Sumatra’; and ¢
Dr. Darwin with a
‘ confuted.
The {mall ifle o
prince, whofe fuffe;
repeated by Mr, P
them to greater cr;
Spaniards ; and it j
for fome years. the
the Batavians, by «
by lenity than by f
markable for furnith
Lombok, Sumbava,
vered in 1522 by the
the white bundal wooc
afettlement, but wer
ille as a kind of barrie
inlength, by 60 in b
in the Oriental Archi
Tuts ifland is repyt
difcoveries feems eal
Europe in fize, ma
ned feems clearly to be
8 3000 miles in circuit
greateft breadth,
The interior parts ¢
though a confiderable
mot due fouth, formi
of feveral villages on
far freater art of Bo
contifts of {wamps, co
and great fizes, which
of the ifland, The unf
branch into multitudes ¢
parts. Lofty mountain
many are volcanic, 9
houfes ‘are often |}
to the fhore, and may t
convenience of the ink b
acaflers from Celehez
are blacks, with long ha
ther features are fuperic
ve been unfuccefe ul,
aQunds in the interior cq
* Outlines, iv. 91, Se
Trew ere im
o fremier oyare a
Sh alate
ASIATIC ISLES. got
the oriental ifles, ‘Java is divided into three or four ptinsipeligies the
chief bemg the emperor of Surikarta. The produéts refemble thofe
of Sumatra; and the exiftence of the poifonous tree, which has fupplied
Dr. Darwin with a highly poetical defcription, appears to be completely
‘confuted. Pops |
The {mall ifle of Madura, on the N. of Java, had i's, independent
prince, whofe fufferings under the are of the Dutch have been
repeated by Mr. Pennant *. The Dutc phlegm feems to have led
them to greater cruelties than the fanatici{m of the Portuguefe or
Spaniards ; and it is to be regretted that the Englifh had not retained
for fome years the poffeffion of the Dutch fettlements, to convince
the Batavians, by example, that conquefts.may be better maintained
by lenity than by fordid cruelty, .The ifle of Balli feems only re-
markable for furnifhing flaves, cotton, yarn, and pickled pork +. Of
Lombok, Sumbava, and Florez, little is known. ‘Timor was difco-
vered in 1522 by the companions of Magalhaens, who found in it alone
thewhite fandal wood {. The Portuguefe after a long ftruggle effe&ted
afettlement, but were expelled by the Dutch in 1613, who regard this
ile as a kind of barrier of the {pice trade. Timor is nearly 200 miles
inlength, by 60 in breadth ; and the inhabitants are efteemed the bravett
in the Oriental Archipelago.
e
\
II. BORNEO.
Tus ifland is reputed the Jargeft in the world ; and even after recent
difcoveries feems only to yield to New Holland, which, as it rivals
Europe in fize, = more properly be regarded asa continent. Bor-
ned feems clearly to be the Greater Java of Marco Polo, which he ‘fays
is 3000 miles in circuit, as it is about goo miles in length, by 600 at its
greateft breadth.
The interior parts of the great ifland of Borneo are little known,
though a contiderable river flows from the centre of the country al-
moft due fouth, forming the harbour of Bender Maffin ; and the names
of feveral villages on the banks are laid down by D*Aaville. ** The
far greater part of Borneo next to the fea, efpecia ly the northern fide,
confifts of {wamps, covered with forefts of trees of numberlefs fpecies
and great fizes, which penctrate for fcores of miles towards the centre
of the iland. The unftable muddy flats are divided by rivers, which
branch into multitudes of canals, and are the only roads into the interior
parts. Lofty mountains are faid to rife in the middle of the ifland:
many are volcanic, and often occafion tremendous earthquakes §.””
The houfes are eften built on pofts fixed in rafts, which are moored
tothe fhore, and may be moved from place to place according to the
convenience of the inhabitants. The coaits are held by Malays, Moors,
Macaflers from Celehez, and even Japanefe. The natives in the interior
are blacks, with long hair, of: a middle ftature, feeble and inaétive ; but
their features are fuperior to thofe of negroes, European fettlements
have been unfuccefeful, the adventurers having been maflacred. ‘Pepper
abounds in the interior country, with the gum called the dragon's blood,
* Outlines, iv. 91, See, th. 28, the maffacre of 19,000 Chinefe in 1740,
+ See Foreft, 170,
$ Premier Voyage au tout du Monde parPigafetta, Pasis,an 9, p. 218, 214.
§ Pennant's Outlines, iv, 52 si ses alt ;
Kk 3 camphor,
goe ASIATIC ISLES.
camphor, and fandal wood. Edible birds' nefts are abundant, Gold ig
found in the interior country ;_ where there are alfo faid ta be diamonds,
but inferior to thofe of Golconda. The Orang Outang abounds,
The natives- are called Biajos, but their language lms not been ex,
plained : they are faid to aller facrifices of {weet-fcented wood to one
iupreme beneficent deity ; and the fentiments of' piety, or, in other
words, of delightful gratitude, are accompanied by laudable morals,
‘The Biajos come down the great river of Benjar to the port of Maf.
feen in rude boats, with gold duft aud other articles, the Moors called
Banjareens being the factors. -Thefe Biajos are tattooed blue, with a
{mall wrapper about the loins. The chiefs extract one or two of the
fore teeth, fubftituting others of gold 5 and ftrings of the teeth of tigers,
a real badge of knighthood, or courage, are worn round the neck,
‘The town called Borneo on the N.W. confifts of about 3000 houfes,
floating as above defcribed: it was greatly frequented by the Chinéie, |
who probably eontinue to be the chief traders to Borneo.
This large ifland is furrounded with many fmall ifles, which, from
their relation to this comparative continent, may be termed Bornean
iflands. Such is the group of Sooloo in the N. E.; of which Mr.
Dalrymple, who vifited them, has given a good account, They are
rich in pearls, for which they were noticed in the time of Magal,
haens. The chief ifle is thirty miles by twelve: the natives rather
polifhed, the government being vefted in a fultan, for the Mahometay
religion extends thus far*. The ifle of Tawee lies between the Soo.
loos and Borneo. At the northern extremity is Banguey, not far
from Balabac, the moft S. W. of the Philippines; and Balamban.
an, remarkable for a fettlement attempted by the Englifh in 1773,
ut evacuated, either on account of the unhealthy climate, or of a
Dutch invafion. To the W. of Borneo are the groups of Natuna and
Anamba little vifited or known; an obfervation applicable alfo to fe.
veral ifles in the S. of Borneo ; but Pulo Laut, which by D’Anville is
right an ifle, is by later difcoveries attached to the continen,
of.
Borneo. ,
Il! THE MANILLAS, OR PHILIPPINE ISLANDS,
\
Tis large group was difcovered by Magalhaens in 1521, who
called them the Archipelago of St. Lazarus ; but they were afterward
ftyled the Philippines, in honour of that infamous tyrant Philip II. of
Spain. ‘
; ‘Leiek is the largeft and moft important of thefe ifles, being more
than feven degrees, or near i Britih miles in length, by about 100
of medial breadth. The jealoufy of the Spaniards has prevented the
acquifition of precife knowledge goncerning this important ifland, which
is pervaded in its length by a chain of high mountains towards the ealt,
Gold, capper, and iron are among the Certain products ; and the {oil
is reported to be uncommouly fruitful. The natives, who are of a mild
charater, are called T'agals, like all thofe of the Philippines, and feem
of Malay origin +. They are tall and well made, wearing only a kind
of fhirts with loofe drawers; but the drefe of the women is chiefly «
ge mantle, and their black and beautiful hair fometimes reaches the
ground, the complexion being a deep tawny, The howfey are of bam
® See alfo the Voysces of Sonnerat and Fozett, + Sonnerat, ii. 198.
F)
bua
boo covered with
ten feet. The chi
in the ifle of Luzo
to the river of M:
not unknown. T}
and coqna trees are
is well built and fc
the number of Chr
this city and Aca
Mexico, was condu
140 degrees, or abc
cumference of the
of great fize, but
Manilla was taken
numerous till the b
committed a terrible
faid that they were
the governor: fince
and produce.
Next in fize is Min
fettlement being at §
mountainous ; Bae th
the pureft rivulets, —
circumference. Hor
ing degree. In the {
ferves as a fea mark. |
The other chief Pp
or ifle of Negroes, 7
of Zebu is the {mall
Magalhaens was flain
hundreds. In genera
volcanic appearances
fprings. Thefe ifles
various kinds; and a
gotten, which firft apr
extends ite benefits th
oceans,
Cerepez is an ifland
Britih miles, but divi
the breadth is comme
lofty and mountainous,
active volcanoes,
beautiful fcenery, this
thound, rifing in the
rocks, amidit a fylvan
luguefe obtained a fet
° Sonnerat, li, 116, For
Voyage to N
t Pennant, iv, 86,
ASIATIC ISLES. 503
boo covered with palm leaves, raifed on pillars to the height of eight or
ten feet. ‘The chief food is rice, and falted fifth. ‘There are many lakes
in the ifle of Luzon, the moft confiderable being that which gives fource
to the river Of Manilla. Several volcanoes occur, and earthquakes are
not unknown. The cotton is of peculiar beauty, and the fugar cane
and cogna trees are objects of particular culture. The city of Manilla
is well built and fortihed, but a third part is occupied by convents:
the number of Chriftian inhabitants is computed at 12,000. Between
this city and Acapulco, nearly in the fame parallel on the W. of
Mexico, was conducted a celebrated commerce through a {pace of about
igo degrees, or about 8,400 g. miles, more than one third of the cir-
cumference of the globe, The Manilla fhips, or galleons, were formerly
of great fize, but latterly {maller veffels have been ufed. ‘The city of
Manilla was taken by the Englifh in 1762. The Chinefe were here
numerous till the beginning of the 17th century, when the Spaniards
committed a terrible maffacre of that induttrious people. In 176g it is
hid that they were again expelled from all thefe ifles, by the bigotry of
the governor : fince which time there has been a great decline in indultry
and produce.
Next in fize is Mindanao, a beautiful and fertile ifland, the chief Spanith
fettlement being at Sambuang in the S.W*. This ifland is in general
mountainous ; But the vales confift of a rich black mould, watered with
the pureft rivulets. ‘The Lano isa large inland lake, about 60 miles in
circumference. Horfes and buffaloes have here multiplied to a furpriz-
ing degree. In the fouth there is a volcano of conftant eruption, which
ferves as a fea mark.
The other chief Philippines are Pulawain, Mindoro, Pani, Buglas
or ifle of Negroes, Zebu, Leyt or Leita, and Samar. On the E.
of Zebu is the {mall ifle of Mactan, where the celebrated navigator
Magalhaens was flain. The other. little iflands might be counted by
hundreds. In general, this grand and extenfive group prefents many
wlcanic appearances; fuch as lava, volcanic glafs, fulphur, and hot
fprings. Thefe ifles prefent wild boars, deer, and ufeful animals of
various kinds ; and among vegetables the bread fruit muft not be for-
gotten, which firft appears on the eaitern coa(ts of Sumatra, and thence
extends ite benefits through innumerable iMlunds in the Indian and Pacific
oceané, :
IV. THE CELEBFZIAN ISLES. .
Cerepez is an ifland of great and irregular length, more than 600
Brith miles, but divided into various portions by great bays, fo that
the breadth is commonly not above do Britith miles, This iland is
lofty and mountainous, elpecially towards the centre, and there are fe-
veral ative volcanoes. ugh the Afiatic ifles abound in fublime and
beautiful fcenery, this ie depicted as exceeding them all}. Rivers
thound, rifing in the high mountains, and precipitating down vat
rocks, amidit a fylvan fcene of lofty and fingular trees. The Por-
tuguefe obtained a fettlement near Macaffar in thé'S.W., being faveured
® Sonnerat, ti, 116, For anample and curious account of this ifland yopag she |
nk Fortis Voyage to New Guinea. The Harafuras, or black netives, are fold wi
land,
¢ Pennant, iv, 06,
Kk4 by
504 ASIATIC ISLES.
by the king of that region, hut were expelled by the’ Dutch in 1669,
whe continue to control the ifland, the Chinefe alone being permitted
to trade. The natives; commonly,, called Macaffars*, often degrade
their courage in -the quality of freebooters, attacking veffels with fur.
prifing defperation, and often with lances, or arrows poifoned with the
juice of the notorious tree called Upas. Their’ houfes are rgifed-oy
illars, as ufual, on account of the rainy feafon, or W. monfoon, from
ovember till March. The Cclebezian group might aptly be termed
the Ifles of Poifon, being full of poifonous trees and plants ; though
the noted upas be exaggerated and afcribed to Java, where it {eems lefs
known. Nature has thus contrafted the falutary productions of the {pice
iflands with the moft pernicious proofs of her power. This large ifland
having been, like Borneo, little explored, there is a great deficiency
in its natural hhiftory. ‘The inhabitants are {aid to cultivate great quan.
tities of rice. fe
Around Celebez are many {mall ifles, as Sanguy in the N., the Shullas
and Peling in the E., with Boutan and Salu in the S. and fome of {maller
rote inthe W. Even the fmalleft ifles are moftly inhabited, and go.
verned by chiefs. In Sanguy and fome others there are {mall Dutch
garrifons, as advanced guards to proteé& the Spice Iffands. Boutan ig
probably ftill ruled by a Mahometan fultan.
V. THE SPICE ISLANDS, INCLUDING THE MOLUCCAS,
Tue Moluccas, originally and ftri€tly fo termed, are only five {mall
iflands on the W. of Gilolo, namely, Ternat, Tiporg, Morir,
Maxiay, and Bakran or BArcutan ¢ 5 but as the kings of the Mo.
Juccas have poffeffed territory in Gilolo and other adjacent ifles, and as
the term Moluccas is confidered as fynonymous with that of Spice
Iflaxds, the appellation has been extended. The Moluccas of D’ Anville
include all the iflands in the oriental archipelago, except thofe of Sunda
and the Philippines: but this extenfion is objectionable, as leading to
vague ideas and confufed defcription ; and it feems preferable to include
under the name of Spice Iflands thofe from Mortay in the N, to Banda
in the S., and from Myfol in the E. to Bouro and Oubi in the W.
Thus the chief Spice Iflands will be GitoLto, Ceram, and Bouro, with
Mortay, Ovsi, My,or, Bouro, that of AmBoyna, and the group
of Banpa, with fuch {mall ifles as approximate nearer to thefe than
to the Celebezian group, or Sumatran chain. In this defcription are
{pecially included the five celebrated ifles, originally and peculiarly
termed the Moluccas. stay’ Bae
Gixo to is of confiderable extent ; but in, irregularity of form fimilar
to Celebez, The length is about 230 Britith miles; the breadth of
each limb feldom above 40. The fhores are low: the interior rifes to
high peaks. Gilolo is faid to have been once governed by one fove-
reign, a fheref ‘from Mecca; but the fultans of Ternat and Tidore
feem now to fhare this large ifle betwixt them t; a circumftance which
adds to the propriety of including Gilolo in the fame defcription with
the Moluccas, One ef the chief towns is T'atany, fituated on a point
or {mall promontory of the eaftern limb, faced with precipices, fo as to
® The moft powerful people are the Bonidns, on the bay of Boni, called Buggajts by
Englith feamen, and by ather nations Bougine/e, Stavorinus, ii, 181.
t Pigafetta, 167, Ba Pennant, iv, 193. be
bé’ only acceffible
oats, deer, and »
13 frequent in Gilo
particularly in we:
jealoufy.
Ceram is anoth
milés in length by
land mountains, —)}
clove, trees ; and tl
copfiderable article
plored, and is alme
As in geographi
ture, the next ment
5oin breadth, 'T}
but in 1660.the D
’ terior woods, feem
The civet weafel j
The ifle of Bouro |
with a wall. The
times be. deferied ;
ebony, and a kind of
' is probable that the
tain receffes, the wil,
Of the other la
with-the Moluccas
or Michoal,) and ¢
but thinly inhabited
the people of Gilol
the moit eaftern of.
tore. The village
are, picturefque fore
to migrate from Pap
romantic and beaut
nea, but their flight
they always defcend
mn aromatic air. Oy
fort on the welt fide :
ernat.
But the moft celet
main to be defcribe
weftern extremity ; ¢
Little, or proper M
Dorr, Motir, Max
by Portuguefe naviga
was one of the chief
paniards, conduéted
two great maritime na
bnt the Moluccas w
fupplanted by the D
ang this opulent
the Moluccas, Ambo
t have one third of th
ASIATIC ISLES. — : 595
pé’ only acceffible by ladders. This ifle abounds with ‘oxen, buffaloes,
oats, deer, and wild hogs; but the fheep are few. The bread fruit
13 frequent in Giloio,’ with the fago tree. The natives are induttrious,
paeentanly in weaving, but their éxertions are fupprefled by Batavian
jealou Ye ’ 4 on
Ceram is another ifland of confidetable fize, vida! igh 190 Britith
milés in length by 40 in breadth ; low towards the fhore, but with in-
land mountains. Mr. Forreft {pecially mentions that Ceram preduces
clove trees ; and there are large forefts of the fago tree, which form a
confiderable article of export, yet this large ifland has been little ex-
plored, and is almoft unknown.
As in geographical defcription the fize of an ifland is a leading fea- |
ture, the next mention muft be Bouro, about go miles in length, by
soin breadtt, This ifle was nominally fubje& to the king of ‘T'ernat ;
but in 1660 the Dutch built a fort, and, though they burned the ex-
‘ terior woods, feem to have improved the induftry of the inhabitants *.
The civet weafel is found here, and the curious hog called babironffa.
The ifle of Bouro rifes fuddenly from a deep fea, being encompaffed as
with a wall. The interior mountains are fo lofty that they mav fome-
times be defcried at the diftance of twenty-eight leagues. Green
ebony, and a kind of iron wood, are mentioned among the trees ; and it
' js probable that the clove, and perhaps the nutmeg, defy, in the moun-
tain receffes, the wild avarice of man. ; :
Of the other large iflands, Bakian or Batchian will be defcribed
with:‘the Moluccas ttri€tly fo called. Of Morray, Mysox, (Mixoal
or Michoal,) and Oust, little is known. Mortay is a beautiful ifle,
but thinly inhabited, though full of fago trees, which are cut by
the people of Gilolo; and is fubjeé to the king of Ternat. Mysor,
the moit eaftern of: this group, is of a triangular fhape, with a bold
hore. The villages are built in the water upon pofts; and there
are, piCturefque forefts vifited by the birds of paradife, which feem
to migrate from Papua, and are caught in confiderable numbers. Thefe
romantic and beautiful birds ftri€tly belong to Papua, or Néw Gui-
nea, but their flight extends over moft oF the Spice Iflands, where
they always defcend as from heaven, and, as the natives believe, float
in aromatic air. Oust abounds in. cloves, and the Dutch have a {mall
ia on the weft fide; but the inhabitants are chiefly fugitive flaves from
ernat.
But the moft celebrated and important iflands of this group ftill re-
main to be defcribed. The Motuccas, ftriétly fo called, in the
weltern extremity ; and Amboyna and Banpa in the fonth. The
Little, or proper Moluccas, as already mentioned, are TERNAT, Ti-
porE, Motir, Maxian, and Barcnian. In 1510 they were vilited
by Portuguefe navigators from the weft; and the fame of the difcovery
was one of the chief inducements to the firft circumnavigation of the
Spaniards, conduéted by Magalhaens, a Portuguefe je aay Thefe,
two great maritime nations afterwards contefted this precious property ;
bnt the Moluccas were finally refigned to the Portuguefe, who were
fupplanted by the Dutch about the year 1607. The Englith alfo
claiming this opulent commerce, a treaty was figned in 1619, declarin
the Moluccas, Amboyna, and Banda, common to both: the Englith
to have one third of the produce, and the Dutch two thirds; each con-
@ Pennant, iv, 174,
tributing
506 ASIATIC ISLES.
tributing a fimilar proportion to defend the iflands from invaders *, But
in the fhort courfe of three years the Dutch, actuated by their infatiable
avarice, determined, by the moft diabolical means, to free themfelves
from all competitors. They forged a plot of the Englith againft their
lives and liberties, and put them to death by the mott exquilite tortures
that hell itfelf could invent.
The clove is faid to have abounded particularly in Makian, but the
growth was afterwards confined by the Dutch to Amboyna. The mit.
meg {pecially flourifhed in the group of Banda; and the Romans ap-
arto have known the clove, but not the nutmeg, which feems to
ave been brought to Europe by the Mahometans. The largett of
the Little Moluccas is Barcmran, being governed by a fultan, who
is likewife fovereign of Oubi and Ceram, with Goram, a little ifle
S. E. of Ceram, reputed the moft eaftern boundary of the Mahometan
faith. This monarch has a penfion from the Dutch, either for the
deftru€tion or fupply of nutmegs, but is otherwile little fubfervient.
Batchian rifes into woody hills; and on the fhores, as in mott ifles
of this archipelago, there are prodigious rocks of coral, of infinite
variety and beauty. Makian is a {mall ifle at a greater interval, to
the N. of Batchian, than appears between the other Moluccas, and
rifes like a high conie mountain from the fea. This was regarded as
the chief Dutch fettlement before rant became the metropolis of
the Moluccas. Next is Morir, formerly, as an old Englith writer
fays, the feat of Venus and voluptuoufnefs. The mott diftinguithed of
the proper Moluccas are Tipore and ‘Ternat. While Portugal was
united to Spain the Dutch were defeated near ‘Tidore in, 1610 by the
Spanith admiral Sylva; but by the affiftance of the king of Ternat
the Batavians feized the fort. In Tidore there are Ganects mofques ;
and the fultan, as already mentioned, poffefles alfo the fouth of Gilolo,
and claims tribute from Myfol.
Ternat is the moft northern and moft important of the Moluccas,
though jt fcarcely exceed twenty-four miles in circumference. The
fultan controls Makian and Motir, with the north of Gilolo, Mortay,
and even fome Celebezian ifles, and part of Papya, whence he receives a
tribute of gold, amber, and birds of paradife. In 1638 the Batavians
formed an alliance with the king of ‘I'ernat and the leffer princes, which
has been repeatedly renewed ; byt garrifons are eltablithed to enforce the
obfervance, and the fultans of de i and Tidore are watched with
at attention, ‘Ternat confifts chiefly of high land, abounding with
Prekties vhich burft from the cloudy peaks: and there is a volcano,
which difplayed great force in 3693. The chief quadrupeds, are gents,
deer, and hogs, and the birds are of diftinguifhed beauty, particularly
the kingfither, clothed in fcarlet and mazareen blue, called by the
natives the Goddefs. In Ternat the boa-ferpent is fometimes found, of
the length of thirty feet ; and by its power of fuétion and conftridtion
is reported fometimes to {wallow even {mall deer,
Equally diftinguifhed are the moft fouthern {pice iflands of Amboyna
and Banda, cloves being now reftrifted, fo far as Dutch avarice could
effect, to Amboyna, and nutmege tq Randa, The governor of Am-
boyna makes an annual progrefs throughout the Spice Iflands, to fee
that treaties are obferved, and fupprelg any new object of jealouly.
Amboyna was difcovered by the Portuguefe about 1515, but was not
feized till 1564 and was conquered by the Dutch about 1607. This
* Rymer's Fordera, xvii, 170.
celebrated
¢elebrated ifle is -a
welt fide there is a
fulas. On-the eat
the Portuguefe ere
boyna, the capital
neatly built ; the k
dom exceed one |
mountaing and ve
riched by cultivatj
forty or fifty feet,
deep fheltered vales.
the chief crop ‘being
reddifh clay, but in
recently feized by tl
contain 45,252 foul
hometans, except a
polifhed, this bein
quence. ‘The nativ
Malays ; and when i
drefs is a loofe fhirt,
rajas, Cattle, grair
couraged the growt!
rebellious; but the
delicious fruitg is th
ago nutmegs were 'p
furnithing a fufficient
and among the bird;
brought from Ceram,
Banna, or LANT
or feven others; it d
and the greateft breac
nutmeg tree is the
flourithes not only in
Gonong, which is the
fea. en the Engl
was about 363,000 px
The nutmeg tree gro
thofe of the Igure), and
The nutmeg, when ri
tiful appearance ; it
afimilgr colour, with
hape it is {gmewhat
mark openg, and difcc
covering in part the t
* An account of the S;
Hy Afiatic Regifter,
755. ‘
+ The iflands of '
Match, 1796, by the Beall
$ The hurricane gn eart
fo that the Dutch have
Englith Eat India Compan
we befides private trade,
§ Aliatic Regifter, 1800,
ASIATIC ISLES, - goy
¢elebrated ifle is about 60 B. miles in length from N. to S., and on the
welt fide there is a large bay, which divides it into two limbs or penine
{ulas. On-the eaftern fide is another bay, with a bad harbour, where
the Portuguefe ere&ted their chief fortrefs Vitoria. ‘The town of Am-
boyna, the capital of the ifle, ttands near the S.W. extremity and is
neatly built ; the houfes, on account of the frequent earthqua es, fel-
dom exceed one floor, The face of this ifland is beautiful, woody
gountaing and verdant vales being inter{perfed with hamlets, and en-
riched by cultivation *. The clove tree grews to the height of about
forty or fifty feet, with tren branches and long pointed leaves. In
deep fheltered vales fome trees will produce thirty pounds weight annually,
the chief crop being from November to February. The foilis moltly a
reddifh clay, but in the vales blackifh and fandy. When Amboyna was
recently feized by the Englith +, it was found, with its dependencies, to
contain 45,252 fouls, of which 17,813 were Proteftants, the relt Mas
hometans, except a few Chinefe and favages. ‘The Dutch are tolerably
polithed, this being the next fettlement to Batavia in wealth and confe-
quence. The natives cannot be praifed, they differ little from other
Malays ; and when intoxicated with opium will commit any crime. ‘The
drefs is a loofe fhirt, or frock, of cotton cloth; and the chiefs are called
rajas, Cattle, grain, &c. are imported from Java. The Dutch dif-
- couraged the grgwth of indigo, left the natives fhould become rich and
rebellious; but the fugar and coffee are excellent, and among many
delicious fruitg is the mangofteen of Hindoftan. About eleven years
ago nutmegs were permitted to be cultivated in Amboyna, Banda not
furnifhing a fufficient fupply. The chief animals are deer and wild hogs,
and among the birds is the caflowary, The moft curioys woods arg
brought from Ceram. om ,
BanpA, or LAnronr, isthe chief ifle of a group which comprifes fix
or feven others; it does not exceed eight B. miles in length, W. to E.,
and the greateft breadth at its eaftern extremity may be five miles. The
nutmeg tree is the principal object of cultivation in thefe ifles; and
fourifhes not only in the rich black mould, but even amidit the lavas, of
Gonong, which is the higheft ifle,-the fummit being 1940 feet above the
fea. When the Englith feized thefe ifles in 1796, the annual produce
was about 443,000 pounds of nutmegs and 46,000 pounds of mace f.
The nutmeg tree grows to the fize af a pear tree, the leaves refembling
thofe of the hovel, and bears fruit from the age of ten to one hundred years.
The nutmeg, when ripe on the tree, has both a very curious and beau-
tiful appearance: it 1s about the fize af an apricot, and nearly of
afimilar colour, with the fame kind of hollow mark all round it; in
fhape it is {gmewhat like a pear; when perfeétly ripe the rind qver the
mark opens, and difcovers the mace, of a deep red, growing ayer and
covering in part the thin thell of the nutmeg, which is black 9.
* An accoynt of the Spice MMands, fince they have been in the poffeffion of Great
Hritain, ~=AGatic Regifter, 1800, p. 200. ‘Shere was @ moft violent earthquake in,
1755. ‘
t The iflands of Amboyna and Banda were taken without refiftagce in February and
March, 1796, by the Englith adwiyal Rainier,
$ The hurricane gnd earthquake, 1778, almoft annihilated the nutmeg trees in Banda,
fo that the Dutch have hecome the dypes of thejr own avarice. From 1796 to 1798 the
Englith Eat India Company imported 817,512Ib, cloves, 93,73alb. nutmegs, 46,730lb.
mace, befides private wade, amounting to avout a third pare af the above. Stavorinus,
We 416, :
§ Aliatic Regifter, 1800, p. 216,
The
ASIATIC ISLES.
The'ground being chiefly occupied with thefe precious plantations,
cattle, grain, &c. are imported from Batavia ; and the Chinefe merchants
508
carry European articles even to Papua or New Guinea. The inhabitants. *
of the Banda ifles were found to be 5763. ‘The Englith-were expelled
from Lantor, and Rohn, or Pulo Rohn, prior to the maflacre of Am.
boyna but feizedthe whole Spice-Iflands in 1796, and reftored them to
their Batavian matters by the treaty with France, 1801.
AUSTRALASIA.
USTRALASIA, ‘as already explained, contains the following
countries,
1. The central and chief land of New Holland, with any ifles which,
may be difcovered in the adjacent Indian ocean, twenty degrees to the W.,
and between twenty and thirty degrees to the E., including particularly
all the large iflands that follow : :
2. Papua, or New Guinea,
3. New Britain, and New Ireland, with the Solomon Iifles.
4. New Caledonia, and the New Hebudes.
5. New Zealand. ate
6. The large ifland called Van Diemen’s,Land, recently difcovered to
be feparated from New Holland by a ftrait, or rather channel, called
Bafg’s trait.
I. NEW HOLLAND.
’ Some fuppofe that this extenfive region, when more thoroughly invef.
tigated, will be found to confitt of two, three or more vatt iflands, inter-
fected by narrow feas. However this be, the moft recent and authentic
charts ftill indicate New Holland as a country fully entitled to the appel-
lation of acontinent. The length from E. to W. is about 43 degrees of
lengitude, in the medial latitude of 25°, that is about 2,340 g. miles, or
2,730 Britifh. The breadth from N. to S. extends from 11° to 39° being
28 degrees, 1,680 g. miles, or 1,960 Britifh, Europe, the {malleft of
the ancient continents, is fuppofed to be about 3,300 B. miles in its utmot
length, and its greateft breadth 2,350, fo that Mr. Pennant rather exag-
erates when he affimilates the fize of Europe and New Holland, the latter
Bein a quarter lefs thanthe former. But the proximity of fo many large
iflands recompenfes this defeét ; and the whole of Auftralafia will pro-
bably be found greatly to exceed the European continent. It mutt at
the fame time be remembered that New Holland may be difcovered to
confift of two or more iflands, fo that Auftralafia is not admitted as a new
continent, but merely as a new divifion of the globe ; in which view this
and Polynefia may be termed maritime divifions, while the four ancient
quarters are frily terrene.
Although the northern parts of Papua were probably not unknown to
the Chinefe, yet there is no fhadow of evidence that they had difcovered
New Holland ; there is therefore room to believe that the firft civilized
people to whom it was difclofed were the Spaniards or shai Sai
Be earlie
new continent, as it
earlieft European |
map, how lodged i
a confiderable por
known to the Spar
or difcovery feems
The Portuguefe
by the learned prefi
between the years
month of O&ober
Hartog. The nor,
other Dutch navig:
honour of Anthon:
In like manner Cai
difcovered in 1628,
‘In 1642 that ce
fips, performed alr
land of Van Diemen
It would be forei
which preceded the
from the fuperior a
amount to a new di
The eaftern coaft
appearing of great it
of the king of Grea
it being difficult to f
tenced to that punif
was at length prefer
the goth January 1:
following year f._
advantages to what
colony, it was imme
another excellent in
Port Jackfon, on tl
this fettlement is nov
in the world, extenc
creeks or coves,
Difficulties with r
attended the new col
into the woods. Fx
colony till 1797, th
held an eminent fituat
around the colony :
and Hawkfbury, an
were found grazing:
loft for feven years, ¢
recent accounts feem
Themode of cultivat
and there is’ room to
deficient in the ufual
INHABITANTS] |
proper to offer a brie
* De Brofits
AUSTRALASIA. 509
earlieft European navigators in this portion of the globe. An ancient
map, now lodged in the Britith mufeum, hag been thought to evince that
a confiderable portion of the coaft now called New South Wales was
known to the Spaniards or Portuguefe ; but the precife epoch of the map
or difcovery feems uncertain.
The Portuguefe being fupplanted by the Dutch, the latter are regarded
by the learned prefident Des Broffes as the chief difcoverers of A uftralafia,
between the years 1616 and 1644. The firft difcovery he dates in the -
month of October 1616, when the weftern extremity was explored b
Hartog. Thenorthern part, called Diemen’s Land, was difclofed by an-
other Dutch navigator, named Zeachen, who beftowed the appellation in
honour of Anthony Van Diemen, governor general in the Eaft Indies,
In like manner Carperiaria was named from general Carpenter, being
difcovered in 1628.
‘In 1642 that celebrated navigator T'afman, leaving Batavia with two
hips, performed almoft a circuit of Auftralafia, and difcovered the fouthern
land of Van Diemen, with New Zealand, and fome ifles of lefs confequence.
It would be foreign to the préfent purpofe to detail the other difcoverics
which preceded the voyages of Cook in 1768, 1772, and 1776, which,
from the fuperior amplitude and accuracy of the details, may be faid to
amount to a new difcovery.
The eaftern coaft having been carefully examined by Cook, and juftly
appearing of oa importance, was formally taken pofleffion of in the name
of the king of Great Britain, 1770. On the clofe of the American war,
it being difficult to fele& a proper lace of tranfportation for criminals fen-
tenced to that punifhment by the laws of their country, this new territory
was at length preferred in 1786, and the firft thip failed from Spithead on
the goth January 1787, and arrived on the 2oth of the fame month in the
following year+. Botany bay being found to be a ftation of inferior
advantages to what were expected, and no {pot appearing proper for the
colony, it was kinheldade at refolved by governor Phillip to transfer it to
another excellent inlet, about twelve miles farther to the north, called
Port Jackfon, on the fouth fide of which, at a fpot called Sidney Cove,
this fettlement is now fixed. Port Jackfon is one of the nobleft harbours
in the world, extending about fourteen miles in length, with numerous
creeks or coves. |
Difficulties with regard to fubfiftence and fome unexpected misfortunes
attended the new colany, the fheep being ftolen, and the cattle wandered
into the woods, Fora minute account of the progrefs of this intereftin
colony till 1797, the reader may confult the work of Mr. Collins, who
held an eminent fituatioh in the eftablifhment. A.fpace of about fifty miles
around the colony had then been explored, and two rivers called Nepean
and Hawkfbury, and fome mountains, had been difcovered. The cattle
were found grazingin ‘a remote meadow, in 1795, after they had been
loft for feven years, and had increafed toa furpriling degree.. The moft
recent accounts‘feem to authenticate the flourifhing ftate of the colony.
The mode of cultivation has been improved, coal and rock falt difcovered ;
and there is room to expect that this wide territory will not be found
deficient in the ufual riches of nature. :
INHABITANTS, ] ‘Thefe hiftorical outlines being premifed, it will be
proper to offer a brief and indeed neceffarily defe&tive defcription of this
,new continent, as it is conceived to be in its original ftate. From the
¢ De Broffes, i, 426, + Collins, i, pa.
accounts
gre AUSTRALASIA.
accounts of various navigators, there is room to infer that this extenfiva
tract is peopled by three or four races of men, thofe obferved inthe §.W,
being. defcribed as different from thofe in the N. *, and both from thofe
in the E., with whom alone we are intimately aequainted. Fhefe ar¢
rhaps in the moft early ftage of fociety which has yet been difcovered
in any part of the globe. Thiey are merely divided, into families, the fenior
being ftyled Be-ana, or Father. Each family or tribe has a particular
place of refidence, and is diftinguifhed by adding ga/ to the name of the
place ; thue the fouthern fhore of Botany Bay 1s called Gwea, and the
tribe there Gwea-gal. Another tribe, numerous and mufcular, has the
fingular prerogative of exacting a tooth from young men of other families,
the fole token of government or fubordination. . No religion whatever is
known, though they have a faint idea of a future exiftencey and think
their people return to the clouds, whence they originally fell. They are
of a low itature, and ill made ; the arms, legs, and thighs being remark.
ably thin, perhaps owing to their poor living on hth, the only food
of thofe on the coaft, while a few in the woods fubfift on fuch animals as
they can catch, and climb trees for honey, flying {quirrels, and opoffumst.
The features of the women are not unpleafant, though approaching to
the negro. The black buthy beards of the men, and the bone or reed
which they thruft through the cartilage of the nofe, gives them a difgutt.
ing appearance ; which is not improved by the practice of rubbing fith oil
into their fkins, as a prote&tion from the air and mufkitos, fo that in hot
weather the ftench is intolerab'e. They colour their faces with white or
red clay. The women are marked by the lofs of the two firft joints of
the little finger of the left hand, as they were fuppofed to be in the way
when they coiled their fifhing lines. It is however not improbable that this
practice, and the extraction of a tooth from the boys, may be mere:initi«
ations, rude leffons that they may learn to bear pain with apathy. he
children are feldom distigured except by accidents from fire ; and their
fight is furprifingly aeute. Some are nearly as black as African negroes,
while others exhibit a copper or Malay colour ; but the hair is long, nov
woolly like the African. ‘Their nofes are flat, noftrils wide, funk eyes,
thick brows aud lips, with a mouth of prodigious width, but the tecth
white and even. ‘* Many had very prominent jaws ; and there was one
man who, but for the gift of {peech, might very well have paffed for an
orang-outang. He was remarkably hairy; his arms appeared of an
uncommon length ; in his gait he was not perfectly upright ; and in his
whole manner feemed to have more of the brute, and. leis of the human
fpecies about him, than any of his countrymen ~
The huts are moft rudely conitructed, of the.bark of trees, in the form
of an oven, the fire being at the entrance. Here they fleep promifcuoully,
if not interrupted by their frequent enmities and affaflinations. Fith are
killed with a kind of prong, or taken by the women with lines of bark
and hooks of the mother of pearl oytter, rubbed on a ftone till the proper
form be obtained. ‘The fith are often broiled on a fire laid on fand in the
canoe. Beatts are taken in a kind of toils. Caterpillars and worms are
likewife articles of food. ‘The canoes are made of bark extended ona
timber frame.
® Yet the defeription of our great navigator Dampier, who vifited thie part in 1664,
a. & greut fimilasity with that of the natives in our colony near Port dackfou—
Vol. i. . 462, ,
t Collias, i hess 3 Collins, i. $54,
Thefe
Thefe
magic an
lightning
They ha
but fome
alligned ;
have nam
and the ©
palled the
of tomb.
Lanai
bulary, a
rous, havi
of the var
remains of
have paffe
of future
CLIMA’
the equate
America,
our winter
in Decemt
brious, th
change of
ightnin ;
from Feb
of cold, tl
continent ;
and other «
Face o4
of the gen
hilly, but 1
deriood ;
in which lar
and fat, an
able appear
taily acceffi
often appea
at the di an
quadrupeds
© Pennant’s
Country and th
t Collins, j,
ktenfiva
e S.W.
m thofe
refe ard
icovered
he fenior
articular
e of the
and the
has the
families,
ratever is
ind think
They are
remark.
nly food
inimals as
offumst.
aching to
ie or reed
a difguit-
ing ath oil
hat in hot
h white or
t joints of
in the way
le that this
mere: initi«
thy. The
3 and their
An negroes,
p long, nob
funk eyes,
t the tecth
re was one
afled for an
ared of an
and in his
the human
in the form
ifcuoully,
. Fithare
s of bark
the propet
{and in the
worms are
ended on @
part in 1688,
rt dackfou—
Thefe
' AUSTRALASIA. gt
‘Thefe poor favages are the abject flaves of fuperitition, believing in
magic and witchcraft and ghofts ; they have alfo fpells againft thunder and
lightning, and pretend to foretell events by the meteors called falling ftare.
They have not only perfonal property in their weapons and fifhing tackle,
but fome are fuppofed hereditary proprietors of certain {pots, perhaps
affigned as rewards for public fervices, or acts of great bravery. They
have names for the fun and moon, fome few ftars, the Magellanic clouds,
and the milky way. Young people are buried, but thofe who have
paffed the middle age are burnt ; a rude cumulus being erected by way
of tomb.
LanouaGe.] Of the language Mr. Collins has given an ample voca-
bulary, and it is reported to be grateful to the ear, expreffive and fono-
rous, having no analogy with any other known language ; but the dialects
of the various regions feem entirely different. Whether thefe People be
remains of aboriginal tribes from the mott fouthern extremities of Atia, or
have paffed from Madagafcar and the eaftern fhores of Africa, are matters
of future difcovery and inveftigation.
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] From its fituation on the fouthern fide of
the equator, the feafons are hike thofe of the fouthern part of Africa and
America, the reverfe of thofe in Europe ; the fummer correfponding with
our winter, and the {pring with autumn. Mr. Collins found the weather
in December very hot, but the climate was allowed to be fine and falu-
brious, the rains were heavy, appearing to fall chiefly about the full and
change of the moon 5 and at intervals there were ftorms of thunder and
lightning. In Norfolk ifland. there is what may be called a rainy feafon,
from February to Auguft. As the fouth ie in this hemifphere the region
of cold, there mult be great difference in the temperature of this wide
continent ; which may alfo be affected as ufual by chains of mountains,
and other circumftances yet undifcovered.
Fack OF THE COUNTRY. } It would be idle to attempt any delineation
of the general afpeét of this country. The fmall portion known feems
hilly, but not mountainous, partly covered with tall trees clear from un-
derwood ; which laft however covers extenfive traéts towards the fhores,
in which large fwamps alfo occur ®. The foil around Botany Bay is black
and fat, and fertile of plants, whence the name arofe; but thefe faveus-
able appearances were counteraéted by great difadvantages. Confiderable
quantities of maize and wheat have fince been railed particularly on
Norfolk ifland ; and it is to be hoped that when experience has indicated
the proper means, this may be rendered a produdtive country.
Rivers, LAKES, AND MOUNTAINS. } ‘Concerning the rivers, lakes, and
mountains of New Holland there is little information. A chain of moun-
tains is faid to run N. ad S, between fifty and fixty miles inland, but not
tally acceffible, on account of numerous deep ravines. Bafaltic columns
often appear; and ig Howe ifland they rife to fuch a height as to be vifible
at the ihance of twelve leagues.
Zoo.ocy.] ‘This wide country prefents a peculiarity in the animals,
being moitly of the opoffum kind, and leaping habitually upon the hind
legs: the chief in fize is the Kangooroo, ‘The native dogs are of the
chacal kind, and never bark; they are of two colours, black or white with
tinges of red, and fome are very handfome ¢. Among the few other
quadrupeds yet defcribed are weazcls and ant-eaters, with that fingular
* Peqnant’s Outlines, iv, 108; but this excellent natugalift feems prejudiced again the
countty and the colony,
t Collins, i, 567,
animal.
gt2 AUSTRALASIA.
animal the duck-billed platypus, in which nature feems to delight in tranf.
grefling her ufual law, the jaws of a quadruped being elongated into the
complete bill of a bird. Among the birds are the brown eagle, feveral
falcons, and many elegant parrots ;-there are alfo buftards and partridges,
with fome pigeons. A new kind of caffowary mutt not be omitted, aid
to be feven feet in length *: it is not uncommon, and the flefh taftes like
beef. Among the aquatic birds are the heron, and gigantic pelicans,
There are alfo peculiar ducks. and geefe ; and the black {wan is a rare
progeny of the-new continent. « It isin fize fuperior to the white, The
bill is of a rich fcarlet ; near the tip is a {mall yellow fpot. The whole
plumage of the moft intenfe black, except the primaries and fecondaries,
which are white, the eyes black, the feet dufky : it is found in Hawk(bury
river, and other frefh waters near Broken Bay, and has all the graceful
i f the white kind +.” :
ee hopin: called “ith turtle, abound in the’ ifles of Norfolk and
Howe + and likewife appear on the coaft of New Holland. There are
feveral lizards and ferpents. Of the fifh may be named dolphins, porpoifes,
and a fingular-amphibious kind which leaps like a frog, by the help of
itrong breaft fins ; fo that natuge has not only here blended the bird with
the quadruped, but brought fifh upon land. The blue crab, of an ultra.
marine colour, is of exquifite beauty. br 3H
Mineraocy.] As the interior mountains of this region have not bea
explored, little can be faid concerning the ps wage In 1797 a fhip
from Bengal being wrecked on the fouthern fhore, of feventeen men only
three reached the fettlement, after a journey of eighty days ; on their way
they difcovered immenfe ftrata of coal, which may prove far more ya.
_luable than mines of gold t.
Il, PAPVAy OR NEW GUINEA.
Tits country is one of the moft interefting in Auftralafia, as partaking
of the opulence of the Moluccas, and their fingular varieties of plants
and animals. The lund of Papua is faid to have been firft difcovered by
Saavedra, a Spanifh captain in 1528, who had failed from Mexico by
the command of Cortez, to explore the Spice Iflands from that quar |
ter§. .Other Spanith navigetors enlarged this difcovery ; and the {trait
between this country and New Holland was explored by Cook, while the
learned prefident Des Brofles, and even Bougainville, the French Cite
cumnavigator, had doubted whether fuch a paffage exited ||. This ex.
tenfive country is {till far from being completely inveftigated, but is con-
ceived to be a vait ifland, extending from a cape, abfurdly ftyled of Good
Hope, but more properly White Point, in the N.W., probably to Cape
Rodney ‘in the S.E., a length of more ' than 1200 miles, by a medial
breadth of perhaps 300, and thus far fuperior in fize to Borneo, former.
the largett of iflands. , .
¥ One is Pop CLATION.} On this extenfive territory, in a fituation
© Pennant, iv. 197. t Ib. 330. z Collins, i. 617.
Je Bolles, i, 399.
‘ iatsodinditon to Coch's laft voyage (by Bifhop Douglas, p. xvi.) ie sole »
withes for more particular details concerning the progrefs of difcureries in a = ot 4
be referred to the work of Des Broffes, uften quoted , and to Mr. Dalrymple , rs ers
voyages in the Pucific, 1770, 4to, ‘The learned French publication was yore i
Callaniler, Edin, 1766, 3 vole. tvo, who feems difpofed to pafs it as au original wider
title of Lerra Aujiraws Coguite ‘
barren Provinces are
bgy is ttriking and
Iplendid and lingular
tumerated by Mr,
idjacentsifles of Ar
there during the avet
Mtire to A
fo highly: fav
oot, t
sorthern part ;
traditions bear
age feems
probably conn
New Britain |
Malay diffufion
woolly hair of 1
vered, as in N
would feem that
tures. In the
which they afce:
furprife. The
tefque, the latte
fenble ther Born
feem the moft in
afterwards burn |
theaxe, while th
hogs *,
large, their nofes
efpecially the upp
red. It is dreflec
times ornament th.
add to their defor;
rings, pieces of b
hang round their
are of lefs fize tha
brafs rings?"
The religious te
make tombs of th
chief commerce is
fruments and uten
pearls, birds of pa
great tkill. Some
nteftine wars,
The coats of }
dove mountain, ri
cocoastrees, and th
gitor with delight,
mhabitants, But b
tions of the globe ;
The natural hift
rroo, mig
* Forreft's Vo
4
AUSTRALASIA. _ 513
f. fo highly favoured by nature, and probably enriched with the choiceft
ne productions, there is no European fettlement. The inhabitants of the
‘al gorthern part are called Papous, whence the name of the country. The
“By traditions bear that they are brethren of the Moluccans, and the lan-
id age feems to have ho affinity with that of New South Wales, but is
ke probably conneéted with that of Borneo, &c. on the weft, and that of
ns, New Britain and the ifles on the other fide; being part of the wide
are Malay diffufion. The inhabitants are black, and even faid to have the:
‘he woolly hair of negroes ; but this lait circumftance will probably be difco-:
ole vered, a8 in New Holland, to proceed from art, and in fome parts it
ie8, would feem that the inhabitants have the true Malay complexion and fea-
ury tures. In the interior is a race called Haraforas, who live in trees,
eful which they afcend by a notched pole, drawing it after them to prevent
; furprife. The appearance of the Papuans and their habitations is gro-
and tefque, the latter being built on ftages in the water; in which they re-
are femble ther Borneans, and other nations in the Afiatic ifles. The women
ifes, fem the moft induftrious in making mats, and pots.of clay, which they
D of afterwards burn with dry grafs or brufhwood; nay, they willeven wield
‘he theaxe, while the men are indolent, or preparing for the'chace of wild
tra. hogs *. ‘
O The afpeét of thefe people is frightful and hideous; the men are
beea out in body, their fkin of a fhining black, rough, and often disfigured
hip with marks like thofe occafioned by the leprofy ; their eyes are very
only large, their nofes flat, mouth from ear to ear, their lips amazingly thick,
t way efpecially the upper lip ; their hair woolly, either a fhining black or fiery
e Vas red. It is drefied in a valt bufh, fo as to refemble a mop; they fome=
timesornament their hair with feathers of the birds of paradife; others
add to their deformity by boring their nofes, and pafling through them
rings, pieces Of bone, or iticks; and many, by way of ornament,
hang round their necks the tufks of boars. The heads of the women
are of lefs fize than thofe of the men, and in their left ear they wear {mall
aking brafs rings.”
plants The religious tenets of the Papuxns have been little examined. They
ed by make tombs of the rude coral rock, fometin:es with {culptures. The
co by chief commerce is with the Chinefe, from whom they purchafe their in-
ye fruments and utenfils. Their returns are ambergris, tortoife-fhell, {mall
rait
pearls, birds of paradife, and other birds, which the Papuans dry with
great {kill. Some flaves are alfo exported, probably captives taken in
inteftine wars.
The coafts of Papua are generally lofty and inland, mountain rifes
above mountain, rickly clothed with woods, |The fhores abound with
cocoastrees, and the whole country feems to have impreffed every navi-
b Cape gtor with delight, and well deferves more cultivated and induttrious
medial HAM inhabitants, But by a fingular fatality many extenfive and beautiful por.
ormet> BM tions of the globe are thinly inhabited bya few favages, while cold and
barren provinces are the crouded feats of civilized nations.
The natural hiftory of this country is little known, but the zoo.
bgy is ftriking and romantic. Papua is the chofen refidence of the
iplendid and fingular birds of paradife, of which ten or twelve forts are
eumerated by Mr. Pennant. They feem to be chiefly caught in the
adjacent:ifles of Arroo, being fuppofed to breed in Papua, and refide
there during the wet monfvon ; while during the dry, or weftern, they
tire to Arroo, migrating in flocks of thigty or forty. During their
ile the
h Cite
18 Xe
8 CON-
Good
uation
7
der who
fic, may
leétion of
by John
vet the
fo
® Forreft’s Voyage to New Guinca. Ay gaat Outlines, iv. 208,
flight
514 AUSTRALASIA.
flight they cry like ftarlings, but when furprifed witha flrong gale they
croak like ravens, and afcend to the fuperior regions of the air, They
alight on the higheft trees, feeming to feed on berries, and according to
fome, on nutmegs and butterflies; and are either fhot with blunt
arrows, or caught with birdlime, or noofes. ‘The bowels and breaf
bone being extracted, they are dried with fmoak ard fulphur, fold for
nails or bits of iron, and exported to Banda. Papua alfo boatts of ele.
gant parrots; while the crowned, or gigantic pigeon almoft equalsa
turkey in fize. ‘
Captain Forreft, to whom we are indebted for an interefting voyage in
thefe feas, only vifited the harbour of Dory in the northern part of Papua,
fo that our knowledge of this large ifland remains extremely imperfect,
He obferved at a confiderable diftance, the mountains of Arfac, of a
remarkable height. Near the harbour of Dory he found in fome little
ifles abundance of nutmeg trees, and there is room to infer that the land
of Papua is not deftitute of the fame productions, and may perhaps alfo |
boaft of cloves.
Some of the {mall adjacent iflands are better known than the main land
of Papua. At the N.W. extremity the chiefifles are Waijoo, and Sal.
watti; befides feveral {maller ones. ale
Farther to the S. are the Papuan iflands of Arroo and Timor Laut,
Waijoo, or Wadjoo, is an ifle of confiderable fize, and is faid to
contain 100,000 inhabitants. The !and is high with lofty mountains, and
on the north fide are two excellent harbours Piapis and Offak *.
Salwatti is alfo a populous ifland, governed by a raja. The people of
thefe two large iflands refemble thofe of the main land of Papua, being
a fingular race of horrible appearance, and great ferocity. They live on
fith, or turtle, and fago, that tree abounding in Papua, but the fubltance
is chiefly prepared by the people of Waijoo.
Timorlaut is another Papuan ifland of confiderable fize, but of which
there is no particular account. The Arroo iflands appear, in Arrow.
{mith’s chart, divided into five by intervening ftraits, and, as already
mentioned, are the remarkable feats of the birds of paradife. The chief
product is fago, and the people make expeditions to the main land,
where they feize captives, and fell them at Banda. In political geo.
raphy the Arroo ifles have been confidered, fince 1623, as belong.
ing ° the Dutch Eaft India Company, and fubfervient to thole of
Banda +.
On bs N. of the main-land of Papua are the ifles of Myfory and Jobi,
with feveral others of fmaller confequence; nor indeed are the difcoveries
fufficiently complete to trace with precifion the northern fhores of Papua,
or the ifles adjacent.
III. NEW BRITAIN, AND NEW IRELAND, WITH THE
SOLOMON ISLES.
New Britain was firft explored and :named by Dampier, that ma
vigator having pafled a ftrait, to which his name is given, betwee
this country and Papua. In 1767 Captain Carteret pafled through
charfnel between New Britain and New Ireland, which lait is a long fly
# Sce Forrefi's Voyage and thé Chart, * + De Broffes, i. 440,
4
Bougainville in 3
Quiros,
wn has been lit
cular race,
Ualand, cits
in the form of q bee
mapper s and the ha
Comb, while the b
parts the nutm
region towards
New Britain, ¢
mountainous an
ftreams. ‘The
thofe of Papua
produét feemed
particularly gin
main land, and
INHABITANT
vety hottile, ‘ hay
with white, and
They are black, |
or flat nofe of th.
fet in length,
this country, and
nus birds, was t
A more ample
being completely
what are called th
by Mendana, wh
The Solomon |]
Pacific, may be ¢
fon’s ifle, or the ]
Egmont by Cart
centre, feem of co
Solomon Ifles of ¢
Some of the native
a wrapper of line
with little beads o
fattened together,
bread made of roo
Bougainville,
IV. NEY
Turse re ions
mot northern
New Caledonia j
AUSTRALASIA. 515
parts the nutmeg tree is found abundant, being perhaps the moft remote
region towards the eaft, of that valuable plant. Dampier vifited a bay in
New Britain, called Port Montague, A.D. 1700, and found the land
mountainous and woody, but interfperfed with fertile vales and’ beautiful
¥
y
to
int . :
aft freams. ‘The country feemed very populous, the natives refembling
for thofe of Papua, and navigating their canoes with great fkill, The chief
lee product feemed to be cocoa nuts, but there were yams, and other roots,
a particularly ginger ; and the fea and rivers {warmed with fifh. In the
main land, and adjacent ifles, there are feveral volcanoes.
ein INHABITANTS. ] Captain Carteret found the natives of New Ireland
pula, vty holtile,’ having lances headed with flint. Their faces were ftreaked
a with white, and their hair dabbed with powder of the fame colour.
of a They are black, and faid to be woolly headed, but without the thick lips
ittle or flat nofe of the negro. Some of the canoes of New Ireland were ninety
land feet in length, formed out of a fingle tree. Bougainville alfo vifited
alfo Ma this country, and obferved here the pepper plant, while, among the nume-
nus birds, was the great crowned pigeon.
land A more ample defeription is unneceflary, as thefe countries are far from
1 Sale being completely difcovered. The fame obfervation muft be extended to
what are called the Solomon Iflands, which appear to have been difcovered
aut. by Mendana, who failed from Lima to the weftward in 1575. :
nid to The Solomon Iflands, as laid down in Mr. Arrow{mith’s chart of the
18, and Pacific, may be confidered as'a large group, extending from Lord An-
fon’s ifle, or the Bouka of Bou ainville, in the N.W. to the ifle called:
ople of Egmont by Carteret in the S.E. Some of the iflands towards the
- being centre, feem of confiderable fize, particularly in length. If thefe be the
live on Solomon Ifles of the Spaniards, it is afferted that they are rich in gold.
Some of the natives were of a copper colour, others of a deep black, with
a wrapper of linen around the waift, while the neck was ornamented
f whick with little beads of gold. ‘The’canoes were fmall, two being commonly
Arrows fattened together, In bafkets of palm leaves they carry a kind of
already bread made of roots *. Thefe iflands are the land of the Arfacides of
e chief Bougainville,
in land,
al geo-
belong.
hofe of
bitance
¢
IV. NEW CALEDONIA, AND THE NEW HEBUDES.
Twese regions were difcovered by Captain Cook in 1774; but
Bougainville in 1768 had failed through the New Hebudes; and
Oi moft northern is fuppofed to be the land of the Holy Ghoft of
uiros,
_New Caledonia is a large ifland, the fouthern part of which in par-
ticular has been little explored. The natives are faid to be a mut.
o a of a deep brown complexion, refembling thofe of New
ealand,
The north weltern part of this large ifland was explored by Captain
Cook, who fays that this diltri&t was called Balade. ‘The name of .Tee,-
which, in the Society Ifles, implics a guardian fpirit, feems here to denote
achief. ‘The women are more chafte than in the other ifles of the Pa-
aie. The houfes are neat, fome having carved door pofts, and they rife
the form of a bee hive, warm, but full of fmoke. The drefs is a flight
Wrapper ; and the hair, which is frizzled, not woolly, is ornamented with
Acomb, while the beard is worn fhort. ‘They fubfift on roots and fith,
ind Jobi,
coveries
Papua
® De Rroffes, i. 259,
Lila
AUSTRALASIA.
516
the country being very barreniand rocky. In New Caledonia Dr. For.
fter found large rocks of quartz, with layers of gold-coloured mica,
blended with ferpentine, hornblende, talc, and garnets. The bread fruit
and cocoa nut are fcarce ; but many new plants were obferved.
Among the New Hebudes Captain Cook has given the moft particu.
lar account of Mallicollo in the north, and Tanna in the fouth. Dr,
Forfter thought that the people of the former, who are ugly and diminu.
tive, had a language lifferent from any they met with in the voyage, In
Tanna there is a remarkable volcano, with fome hot {prings. Here are |
found plantains, fugar canes, yams, and feveral kinds of fruit trees. The
natives rather refemble thofe of New Holland than the Friendly Ifanders,
and are particularly dexterous in the ufe of the fpear.
V. NEW ZEALAND.
Tuts country was firft difcovered by Tafman in 1642, but he did not
land. The natives however came on board, and fome intercourfe took
place, during which feven of the Dutch, who had gone afhore unarmed,
were cruelly flaughtered. The people were defcribed to be of a
colour between brown and yellow, with long black hair refembling the
Japanefe.
Our great navigator Cook explored thefe regions in 1770, and dif.
covered a ftrait which divides the country into two large iflands. The
fouthern was fuppofed to be called by the natives Tavia Poenamoo, and
the northern Eaheianowmawe, names which equal the Ruffian in length,
and which might well be contraéted. The firft is not lefs than 600 B,
miles in length, by about 150 in medial breadth ; and the fecond is little
inferior in fize. i
One of thefe iflands appears to be far more fertile than the other ; but
both enjoy a temperate climate, fimilar to that of France. The natives
were again obferved te be of a brown complexion, little deeper than the
Spanifh, and fome are even fair. They equal the talleft Europeans in
itature; and their features are commonly regular and pleafing. It is fin.
ular to obferve fuch a diverfity between them and the natives of New
olland, when theory would expeét to find them the fame race of men,
So far as prefent difcoveries extend, the natives of New Holland and
Papua feem to difplay an African origin ; while moft of the other iflands
in the Pacific appear to have been peopled from Afia.
MANNERS AND CusToms.] The New Zealanders inter their dead;
they alfo believe that the third day after the interment the heart {e-
parates itfelf from the corpfe, and is carried to the clouds by an atten
dant fpirit.
Suicide is very common among the New Zealanders, and this they
often commit by hanging themfelves on the flighteft occafions ; thus a
woman who has been beaten by her hufband will perhas hang herlelf
immediately.
They have no other divifion of time than the revoluti.n of the moon, §
until the number amounts to one hundred, which they term « ‘l'a.«e
E-tow,’’ that is one Etow, or hundred moons ; and it is thus they count
their age, and calculate all other events.
Captain Cook’s laft voyage contains confiderable information relative to
the fouthern ifle, from which a few brief hints may be added, as this re-
gion only yields to Papua in fize and confequence. Storms were found
to be not only frequent but violent, and often changed in — die
rection
inthe Eatt Indies |
pleate names are injurio
: soi Nomencle
en's Land, or one of {
the difcoverer,
reCtion by th
loaded with v:
but the priefts
The enorm
The bafes of 1
yellow marl ;
uriance, feemi
leaves in {pring
verdure was cc
attention, bein
ably tall. Th
without fuccefs
entire reverfion
and colour; an
no quadruped v
which is a dome
The general .
flax ; and the e;
ing often befme:
greafe. The he
the boats are we
with ftrone with
to fail without a
and they often fi
carry thirty me
They bake their |
kind of fern, wh
ingenious mechan
Their weapons at
rude battle-axe ;
The yet warm bo
roured with pecu
are preferved in t
pinied with their
i of the md
y Mr, Savage, a
nd. His dete
harbour near the
while the Bay of J
of the country it
cious. The chief
Pigeon of large
contains about a
Tus is the }
Auftralafia, The
alman, as already;
*Cook, i, 169,
t There is another Va
The
ders,
d not
took
rmed,
of a
ig the
d dif.
The
», and
ength
00 B.
3 little
3 but
atives
ban the
ans in
is fin
ff New
men,
d and
iflands
dead $
art. {e-
atten-
s they
hus a
erfelf
mnon, §
[awe
count
tive to
his re-
found
sir die
ection
AUSTRALASIA.
reftion by the height of the mountains, which at thefe times are always
loaded with vapours. The natives have no morai, or place of worfhip ;
but the priefts alone addrefs the gods for profperity.
The enormous lizards defcribed by the natives are probably alligators.
The bafes of the mountains feem to be fand ftone; and the foil refembles
llow marl; even the hills are covered with trees of the moft lofty lux-
uriance, feeming to retain their foliage till expelled by the fucceeding
leaves in {pring for in June, which correfponds to our December, the
verdure was complete. The flax of New Zealand has excited particular
attention, being of a beautiful filky appearance, and the plant remark-
ably tall. ‘The culture has been attempted both in France and England
without fuccefs; perhaps from fome remarkable difference in foil, or the
entire reverfion of feafons. The birds feem to be often peculiar in fpecies
and colour ; and it is not a little remarkable that, in this extenfive land,
no quadruped was obferved, except a few rats, and a kind of fox dog,
which is a domettic animal with the natives.
The general drefs is an oblong garment, made by knotting the filky
fax ; and the ears are ornamented with bits of jad or beads, the face be-
ing often befmeared with a red paint, feemingly iron echre mingled with
fe. The habitations are far fuperior to thofe in New Holland: and
the boats are well built of planks, raifed upon each other, and fattened
with ftrong withes. Some are fifty feet long, and fo broad as to be able
to fail without an out-rigger, but the fmaller fort commonly have one,
and they often faften two together by rafters. The large canoes will
carry thirty men or more; and have often a head areny carved. —
They bake their fifh ina rude oven; and the ufe of bread is fupplied by a
kind of fern, which yields a gelatinous fubftance like fago. They are
ingenious mechanics with their rude tools, which are moftly of green jad.
Their weapons are {pears and javelins, with the pa-too, a kind of club or
rude battle-axe ; and in combat they diftort their features like demons.
The yet warm bodies of their enemies are cut in pieces, broiled, and de-
roured with peculiar fatisfa€tion *. The warlike actions of their anceftors
are preferved in traditional fongs, which are frequently fung, and accom.
pénied with their rude flute.
One of the moft recent accounts of this vig | is that publifhed+
by Mr. Savage, a furgeon, who brought one of the natives to Eng-
land. His defcription particularly applies to the Bay of Ifles, a noble
harbour near the north cape of New Zealand, lat. 34° 25' long. 173° 4’,
while the Bay of Ifles is in lat. 35° 6', and E. long 174° 43'. In this par
of the country it would appear that the people are rather mild than fero-
tious. The chief animals obferved were a black and white dog, and a
pigeon of large fize and great beauty. The chief town of this part
contains about a hundred houfes.
VI. VAN DIEMEN’S LAND.
Tus is the laft great divifion yet difcovered of the wide expanfe of
Autralafia. The name was impofed by that eminent Dutch navigator
Tafman, as already mentioned, in honour of the Dutch governor-general
inthe Eaft Indies ¢. It has been recently difcovered to be an ifland, in
*Cook, i, 162, + London, 1807, 8vo.
$ There is another Van Diemen’s Land, a northern cape of New Holland. Such du-
jlicate names are injurious to the ftudy of geography, an ht to be formally abrogated,
¥ a Board of Nomenclature, fo meh wanted, were inftituted. The foutkern Van Die-
men's Land, or une of the ifles of Mew Zealand, thould be called Tafmania, iu honour ot
the difcoverer,
L1 3 the
AUSTRALASIA.
518
the form of an oblong fquare, about 160 B. miles in length by half that
breadth, being divided from New Holland by a ftrait, or rather channel,
more than thirty leagues wide, which in recent maps is called Bafs’s ftrait,
and contains a chain of {mall iflands ruuning N. and S. During his lat
voyage, Captain Cook, in January 1777, vifited Diemen’s land for fup.
plies of wood and water, and gra{s for the animals on board. They were
met by fome of the natives, who were entirely naked; of a common
ftature, but rather flender, the fkin being black, and the hair as woolly
as that of any native of Guinea, but their lineaments were more pleafing
than thofe of African negroes. ‘The hair and beards, and of fome the
faces, were fmeared with red ointment. They feem to prefer birds to
all other food. The land is chiefly of a good height, diverfified with
hills and valleys, and every where of a greenifh hue, being well wooded
and watered. , The Fluted Cape appears to be compofed of a Very fine
white fand ftone, which in many places bounds the fhore, and the foil is
either fandy or confilts of a yellowifh mould, and in fome places of a
creddifh clay. The foreft trees feem to be all of one kind, growing
quite flraight to a great height, and may be well adapted for mails,
The only quadrupeds difcovered were opoflums and kangooroos ; and
the birds cannot differ much from thofe of New Holland, to which there
is as it were a paflage by intermediate ifles. The hovels refemble thofe
of New Holland ; but fometimes large trees are hollowed out by fire to
the height of fix or feven feet, fo as to form a rude habitation.
POLYNESIA.
Bee boundaries of this extenfive divifion of the globe have already
. been briefly mentioned, in the introduétion to the Afiatic Iflands,
A line paffing due north, in the meridian of 130° eaft from Greenwich,
will heave the Philippine Iflands in the oriental archipelago, divided bya
wide fea from the Pelew Ifles, the moit weftern group of Polynefia, though
a few {mall detached ifles appear to the S.W. About 20° N, lat. the
line of demarcation bends N.E. fo as to include the ifle of Todos los
Santos, and that called Rica de Plata, thence proceeding E. fo as to
include the Sandwich Iflands, and pafs S. about long. 122° wef, till
it reach the fouthern lat. of 50°, where it turns to the welt, and joins the
boundary of Auftralafia.
It is probable that future navigations may greatly improve and enlarye
the geography of Polynetia, by the difcovery of new groups, and the
more accurate arrangement of thofe already known. At prefent the fol.
lowing appear to be the chief fubdivifions ;
1. The Pelew Ifles,
2. The Ladrones, a chain extending in a northerly direétion, the {mall
iflands in the Pacific feeming to be moftly the fummits of ranges or
groups of mountains. ene
.’ The Carolines, a long range from E. to W., fo as perhaps in ftrid
nels, to include the Pelews, ~-
4. The Sandwich Ifles,
5 The Marquefas,
6. The Soc
7. The Fri
There are, |
it would be dif
yet difcovered,
THIS group |
and pleating acc
of Captain Wil
narrative is dou
people appear t
children of natu
the {mall ifles |
concentration o:
krge iflands th
each other, whe
fucceffion of fea
for feceffion, the
The Pelewan:
ftature. Their
underftood by 1
and owing *,
two little aprons
Both fexes are t
lowed, and the ¢
gion of any kinc
body. Mild, aff:
of Otaheite, forr
The language is
through thefe fea
The governme
rupakt, or chiefs,
all the land is fi,
the people is onl
furniture. Our
neglected by the
per for food.
make a kind of f
The chief drink ig
day-light, and ir
are raifed on large
Aruéted of plants
with hard rubbith
belt knives are of
bamboo, They
their articles refer
he Weapons are
the trunk of a tree
Thefe ifles had
wing
maits.
3 and
there
thofe
fire to
plready
flands,
nwich,
d bya
hough
at. the
dos los
D aS to
eft, till
ins the
enlarge
nd the
he fol.
e {mall
ges ot
frit.
POLYNESIA. | 519
6. The Society Ifles, fo named in honour of the Royal Society.
9, The Friendly Ifles.
There are, befides, many ifles {cattered in different directions, which
it would be difficult to connect with any group, and indeed none of them,
yet difcovered, appears to be of any confequence.
1. THE PELEW ISLES.
Tus group recently attracted confiderable attention, from'an ingenious
and pleafing account of them, drawn up by Mr. Keate, from the papers
of Captain Wilfon, who fuffered fhipwreck on thefe iflands in 1783. The
narrative is doubtlefs heightened by Mr. Keate’s imagination, but the
people appear to be a molt gentle and amiable race, the gay and inngcent
children of nature. It is a peculiarity in the oriental archipelago, that
the {mall ifles are the chief feats of comparative civilization, by: the
concentration of fociety.. To this circumitance may be added, that in
large iflands the natives fplit into dittinét tribes, generally hottile to
at other, whence the pleafurable paffions almoft expire in the conitant
fucceffion of fear and rage, while, in the {mall iflands, their being no room
for feceflion, the fociety becomes as it were one family.
The Pelewans are a {tout well made people, rather above the middle
ature. Their complexions are of a far deeper’ colour than what is
underftood by the copper hue, but not black, and their hair is long
ad flowing *. ‘The men are entirely naked, while the women only wear
two little aprons, or rather fringes, made of the hufk of the cocoa i:ut.
Both fexes are tattoved, and the teeth are dyed black. Polygamy is al-
lowed, and the dead are interred. There feems no appearance of reli-
gion of any kind, though they have an idea that the foul furvives the
body. Mild, affable, and induitrious, this little tribe, like the inhabitants
of Otaheite, form an exception to the general rule of favage exillence.
The language is probably a dialect of the Malay, fo widely diffufed
through thefe feas.
The government is in the hands of a king, under whom there are
with or chiefs, who alfo conititute a kind of nobles. The property of
all the land is fuppofed to be vetted in the fovereign ; while that of”
the people is only perfonal, as a canoe, weapons, or rude articles of
furniture. Our domettic poultry are here wild in the woods, and were
negleced by the natives, till taught by the Englifh that they were pro-
per for food. Their chief nourifhment appears to be fith; but they
make a kind of {weet-meat from the fugar-cane, which feenis indigenous.
The chief drink is the milk of the cocoa nut. ‘They commonly cife at
day-light, and immediately go to bathe in frefh water. Their houfes
are ratfed on large ftones, about three feet from the ground, being con-
frudted of plants and bamboos, and the fireeplace in the middle, fecured
with hard rubbifh, ‘There are large mantions for public meetings. ! The
belt knives are of mother of pearl, others of a large mufcle thell, or {plit
bamboo. ‘They make oval veflels of courfe earthen ware. In general
their articles relemble thofe of Otaheite, and other ifles in the South Sea.
T'he weapons are {pears, darts, and flings; and the canoes are formed of
the trunk of a tree neatly ornamented. |
Thefe ifles had fcarcely been vilited by any Buropean till Captain
* Keate, 318.
L14 Wilfon
g20 POLYNESIA.
Wilfon.ianded at Oloolong. They are in géneral of a moderate height
well covered with wood ; and are encircled on the weft fide by a reef
of coral, from two to fix leagues from the fhore, and of great length,
The ebony tree is found in the forefts, and the bread fruit and cocoa
tree feem to abound, with fugar-eanes and bamboos. No kind of grain
was feen, nor any quadrupeds, except fome rats in the wood,, and
three or four cats in the houfes, probably drifted afhore from fome
wreck. Of birds, pigeons feem the moft numerous ; and the wild poultry
have been already mentioned.
Il. THE LADRONES.
Tus appellation implies the Ifles of Robbers, and was given by that
diftinguifhed navigator Magalhaens, who firft difcovered thefe iflands in
1521, the natives ihewing great difpofition tu pilfer, and much addrefs in
the execution of their defigns.
According to the Jefuit Gobien, who has publithed a particular hiftory
of the Ladrones, or Marian Iflands *, the inhabitants, till the arrival of
the Spaniards, regarded themfelves as the only men in the world. When
they were vifited by the Spaniards and Dutch, they inferred that thefe
ftrangers were brethren, who had loft the primitive Guamefe language.
Iu colour, fpeech, manners, and bean they confiderably relemble
the Tagals or people of the Philippines, before the Spanifh conquett.
Thefe ifles were then very populous, Guam, in forty leagues of circuit,
having thirty thoufand inhabitants.
In the reign of Philip IV; of epein thefe ifles were alfo called the
Marians, in honour of his queen, Mary of Auftria. The largett is that
of Guam, but Tinian has attra&ted more attention, from the romantic de.
feription in Anfon’s voyage. ‘There is no doubt that mariners who have
been long at fea, and fuffered many difeafes and privations, will be infinitely
delighted with any verdant land, and find beauties where none exit,
Hence fubfequent navigators have been greatly difappointed in Tinian.
Anfon found here wiundaaes of wild cattle, of a white colour, except the
ears which are generally black or brown. But they had probably been
imported by the Spaniards, as a fupply for the garrifon at Guam. Here
were alfo found oranges, limes, and cocoa nuts, with that celebrated and
remarkable tree which bears the bread fruit.
The Ladrones are computed to be twelve or fourteen in number ; but
not above three or four ‘are inhabited. Their veffels, called flying
proas, have been efteemed fingular fpecimens of naval architecture, and
at a diftant interval. impreffed he and Anfon with the ingenuity
of the contrivance. The natural hiitory of thefe iflands is little ions
It appears from the voyage of La Peroufe that fome of them are
volcanic.
To the N. of the Ladrones are many {mall iflands, extending to Todos
Los Santos, lat. 30°, thofe farther to the N. belong to Japan. This
group may either be arranged among the Ladrones, or might perhaps
admit of a diftinét appellation.
The Golden and Silver Ifles feem to be fo ftyled from Japanefe fables,
and with a few other {cattered ifles on the N. of the Carolines, merit lit-
tle attention. In thefe feas is the ftupendous rock called Lot's Wife,
zifing in the form of a pyramid, and thus defcribed by Mr. Meares in his
* Paris, ¥700, 17me.
voyage;
voyage: ‘* The
of Greenwich.
portioned to the
terrupted by it.
hundred and fift
at about forty o
yern on its fouth
and tremendous
alone in an imm
which had been a
change the very
mitted to defolate
Tuts is the lar
inthe Pacific aed
by the Spaniards
Charles IJ. ‘The
cept three which
Philippines, and ¢
that their languag
of the Jefuits, e
monarch, who pir
They believe in
ina facred’ lake ir
any appearance of
fea, and at others
Tt is faid that thof
magicians. Polyg
ile of Hogoleu he
another *,
They do not apy
are accompanied wi
bone. Even in thi
known; and in on
twenty nine Spania
fuppofed to have n
to be more civilizet
the Pelews,
_ The moft confide
in length by 40 in
this chain, but not;
have been little vifit
been difcovered in tl
in the fame range,
THesziflands app
Cook, and the iflanc
5. miles in circumfer
this able commander
POLYNESIA. 521
yoyage: ‘ The latitude was 29° 50! north, the longitude 142° 23! eaft
of Greenwich. The waves broke againtt its rugged front, with a fury pro-
portioned to the immenfe diftance they had to roll before they were in-
terrupted by it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the height of near three
hundred and fifty feet. A {mall black rock appeared juft above the water,
at about forty or fifty yards from the weftern edge. There was a ca-
yern on its fouth-eattern fide, into which the waters rolled with an awful
and tremendous noife. In regarding this ftupendous rock, which ftood
alone in an immenfe ‘ocean, we could not but confider it as an objec
which had been able to refift one of thofe great convulfions of nature that
change the very form of thofe parts of the globe which they are per-
mitted to defolate.’’
HI. THE CAROLINGS. ¢
Tuis is the largeft group, or rather the moft extenfive range of iflands
inthe Pacific ocean. This chains appears to have been firit difcovered
by the Spaniards in 1686, and was named from the .Spanifh monarch
Charles IJ. ‘They are about thirty in number, and very populous, ex-
cept three which were uninhabited. The natives refemble thofe of the
Philippines, and chiefly live upon fifh and cocoa nuts; and it is probable
that their language only differs ina few fhades. According to the letters
of the Jefuits, each ifle was fubject to its chief, but all refpeted a
monarch, who refided at Lamurec.
They believe in certain celeftial fpirits, and think they defcend to bathe
ina facred'lake in Fallalo, but there are neither temples nor idols, nor
any appearance of worfhip. The dead are fometimes thrown into the
fea, and at others interred, the grave being furrounded with a ftone wall.
Itis faid that thofe of Yap worfhip a kind of crocodile, and have their
magicians. Polygamy is allowed, and the Tamul or chief of the large ,
ifle of Hogoleu had nine wives. Criminals are banifhed from one ifle to
another *.
They do not appear to have any inftruments of mufic, but their dances
areaccompanied with fongs. Their only weapons are lances, armed with
bone, Even in this diftant quarter of the globe negro flaves are not un-
known; and in one or two of the iflands the breed is faid to be mingled,
twenty nine Spaniards me ped been left on one of thefe iflands, who are
fuppofed to have married and fettled. The people of Ulea are reported
to be more civilized than the reft, and appear much to refemble thofe of
the Pelews,
The moft confiderable of the Carolines is Hogoleu, about go B. miles
in mat by 40 in breadth. Next is Yap, in the weitern extremity of
thischain, but not above a third part of that fize. The Caroline iflands
have been little vifited by recent navigators ; but a few {mall groups have
been difcovered in their eaftern extremities, which may craperty be clafled
in the fame range.
IV. THE SANDWICH ISLES.
Tes iflands appear to have been firft difcovered by our great navigator
Cook, and the ifland Owhyhee the largeft in the group, being about 280
B, miles in clrcimitewaee, Wi unfortunately diftinguifhed as the place where
this able commander was flain by the natives in February 1779
* De Broffes, 486,
Thefe
§22 POLYNESIA.
’ 'Thefe iflands were fo named by Cook in gratitude to the earl of Sand,
avich, a minifter who had warmly promoted his labours. The natives are
rather of a darker complexion than thofe of Otaheite, but the features
are pleafing ; and the death of Cook was not owing to ferocity, but’ a
fudden impulfe of undeferved refentment. The hair is fometimes long,
fometimes curled, as among Europeans: but the nofe is always {pread at
the point, perhaps owing to the mode of falutation, in which they prefs
their nofes together. Captain King reprefents them as a mild and affec.
tionate people, free from the Otaheitan levity, and the proud gravity of
thofe of the Friendly Ifles. ‘This ingenious people have even inade fome
progrefs in agriculture and manufactures: yet they [till facrifice human
victims, but do not eat them like the people of New Zealand, at leait fo
far as information could be obtained. The beard is generally worn ; and
among the ornaments of both fexes isa kind of fan to drive away flies,
made of the fibres of the cocoa nut, or of long feathers. Like the other
nations of Pulynetia, they tattoo their bodies ; and among females even the
tip of thetongue. The drefs confilts of a narrow piece of coarfe cloth
called the maro, prepared in the fame manner as at Otaheite, which pajles
between the legs and is faftened round the loins, In battle the men throw
a kid of mats over their fhoulders, and this armour is neatly manufactured,
On folemn occafions the chiefs wear dreffes, artfully and beautifully formed
of feathers. The women have only a flight wrapper, and the hair is cut
fhort behind, but turned up from their forehead. The food confits
chiefly. of fith, to which are added yen plantains, and fugar canes;
while people of rank feait on the wild boar, and fometimes the flefh of
dogs. ‘The goverament is in a fupreme chief called Eree Taboo, whofe
funeral is accompanied by the facrifice of two or more fervants. The in.
ferior chiefs are ftyled Erees ; and there is a fecond clafs of, proprietors,
and a third of labourers, all thefe ranks feeming to be hereditary. Though
human facrilices be here more frequent, the other rites appear to cor.
refpond with thofe of the Society Iflands, which fhall be defcribed in the
account of Otaheite.
Cuimats.] The climate appears to be more temperate than that of
the Weft Indies ; and in Owhyhee the mountains arreft the clouds, and
produce rain inland, while there is fynfhine onthe fhore. The winds feem
generally eaiterly, and there is a regular land and fea breeze.
Zooiocy.] The quadrupeds, as ufyal in Polynefia, are few; only
hogs, dogs, and gats, being difcovered. ‘The kinds of birds are not nu.
merous, being, amang others, large white pigeons, plovers, owls, and a
kind of raven. hefe iflands produce abundance of the bread fruit, and
fugar canes of amazing fize. Upon the whole this difcovery was impor-
tant; and Owhyhee is the largett ifland yet found in the wide extent of
Polynefia.
¥. THE MARQUESAS,
Tnese iflands were difcovered by Mendana, who impofed the name in
honour of Don Garcia de Mendoza, marquis af Caniente, viceroy of
Peru, whence they are alfo fometimes ftyled the ifles of Mendoza. One
of the beft known to Nuropeans is the Ifle of Ohittahoo, to the 5. of
the larger Ifle Qhevahow. util nr '
In 1774 the Marquefas were vilited by captain Cook, and in 1789 by
the French circumnavigator Marchand, The beit recent account of them
is that given in the Rilonsry Voyage, captain Wilfon having vifited the
Marquefas in 1797. the
The natives
and regularity
which blacker
be only tawny
of the women
is not fo unive
the waift, the
piece of their
down the leg,
The religior
amorai in each
large ftones.
Jittle power, ct
uncivilized nati
day, or oftener
Otaheite. Th
being common
tude refemblan
No quadrupx
try; and thew
ifles an Englith
raging mutual {
The largett
fize of Otaheite
feas prefents a
iland yet difcov
B. mies in len
TuHIs group
fia, and our adi
cule on the con
All the ifland
ealtern extremit
of Society Ian
number, amount!
far the mot ¢
ference. It con
three miles in b
fifteen miles in
the N.W. is alm
the whole length
From the map d
provements in th
two mountains,
above mentioned
coalts. This ci
croud to the tho
that, the original
Prevented them fi
that even in the
ind.
are
ures
tia
ng,
d at
refs
Tec.
y of
lome
Iman
fk fo
and
flies,
other
n the
cloth
Datles
hrow
ured,
rmed
is cut
onfilts
anes $
efh of
whofe
“he ins
ietors,
rough
D CUrs
in the
hat of
8) and
ls feem
; only
ot nue
and a
it, aud
impor- |
ent of
‘
POLYNESIA. 235
The natives are faid to furpafs all other nations in fymmetry of fhape,
and regularity of features; and were it not for the practice of tattooing
which blackens the body by numerous punétures, the complexion would
be only tawny, while the hair is of many colours, but none red. Some
of the women are nearly as fair as Europeans, and among them tattooin
js not fo univerfal*, A long narrow piece of cloth was wrapt pion, |
the waift, the ends being tacked up between the thighs, while a broad
piece of their cloth was thrown over the fhoulder, reaching half way
down the leg.
The religious ceremonies refemble thofe of-Otaheite ; and they have
amorai in each diftriét, where the dead are buried under a pavement of
large tones. Their deities are numerous, and the chiefs feem to have
litle power, cuftom alone being followed, inflead of laws. Like moft
uncivilized nations, they have no regularsmeals, but eat five or fix timesa
day, or oftener. ‘The women feem more fubjected to the men than at
Otaheite. ‘The canoes are made of wood, and the bark of a foft tree,
being commonly from fixteen to twenty feet in length, the prow carved in
sude refemblance of a human face.
No quadrupeds were difcovered except hogs, but there are tame poul-
try; and the woods are filled with many beautiful birds. In one of thefe
ifles an Englith miffionary was left, in the benevolent intention of difcoy-
raging mutual flaughter, and human facrifices.
The largett ifle of the Marquefas, Noabevas is not above half the
fize of Otaheite, and in general the multitude of {mall iflands in thefe
feas prefents a panebetsk variety in the works of nature, the largeft
jland yet difcovered in Polynefia being Owhyhee, which is about 109
}. mies in length.
VI. THE SOCIETY ISLES.
Tus group has attraéted more attention than any other in Polyne.-
fia, and our admiration of Otaheite has excited fome degree of ridi-
cule on the continent. :
All the iflands from longitude 160° weft from Greenwich, to the
ealtern extremity of Polynelia, may be included under the general name
of Society Iflands, a range which will thus even exceed the Carolines in
number, amounting to fixty or feventy. Of thefe, Otaheite is ftill by
far the moft confiderable in fize, being about 120 miles in circum.
ference. It confilts of two peninfulas, joined by a neck of land, about
three miles in breadth, the f{mallelt peninfula to the S.E. being about
fifteen miles in length, by ten in breadth, while the large peninfula to
the N.W. is almoft circular, and about twenty-five miles in diameter:
the whole length being thus about forty ‘g. miles,*or forty-fix Britith.
From the map drawn by captain Cook, and republifhed with fome im-
provements in the Miffionary Voyage, this ifland appears to confift of
two mountains, a larger and a fmaller, joined by the narrow ridge
above mentioned; and the habitations are entirely confined to the level
coalts. This circumftance feems univerfal in Polynefia, as the natives
croud to the fhores for fifth, their chief aliment; and it is probable
that, the original colonies having fettled on the coafts, indolence has
prevented them from vifiting the inland heights. Nor is it improbable
that even in the large countries of Aultralafia a fimilar fingularity may
# Miffionary Voyage, London, 1799, 4to. p. 145. .
€
Sa hi lt I a me hin eigen itt ae
t
}
5 i)
I
}
}
t
!
“524 POLYNESIA.
be obferved, the fearcity of animal food probably compelling the na.
tives chiefly to refide on the fhores.
Near the central fummit of the large mountain of Otaheite, which in
circumference, though not in height refembles Etna, there is a curious
lake of fome extent: but no river appears, there being only rivulets,
which fpring from the fkirts, and purfue a brief courfe of two or three
miles to the ocean,
INHABITANTS. ] The natural colour of the inhabitants is olive, in.
clining to copper. Men expofed to the fun become very dark ; but the
women are only a fhade or two deeper than an European brunette. They
have fine black eyes, with white even teeth, foft fkin, and elegant limbs;
while their hair is of a jetty black, perfumed and ornamented with flowers*,
But with all thefe advantages they yield infinitely in beauty to the wo.
men of the Marquefas, the face being widened from continual preffure
from infancy, which by diftending the mouth, and flattening the nofe and
forehead, gives a broad mafculine appearance. Hence it is evident that
the Grecian and academical forms, given by artifts void of real tafte or
precifion, to the people of the South Seas, in the prints that accompany
the Englifh and French voyages, are totally falfe and imaginary.
The chiefs are taller than the people, few being under fix feet ; and as
perfonal fize and ftrength are the chief diftinétions in early fociety, it is
robable that their anceftors were feleGted for thefe advantages, which
fave been continued by fuperior food and eafe. The drefs of both fexes
is nearly the fame, except that the men wear the maro, a narrow piece of
eloth wrapped round the waift, and paffing between the thighs; an ob.
long piece, cut in the middle to admit the head, hangs down before and
behind : and’ another piece is wrapped round the middl@, and a fquare
mantle is thrown over all. Both fexes wear garlands of flowers and fea.
thers; and the women ufe a kind of bonnet made of cocoa leaves. Par.
turition is eafy ; and the infant can {wim as foon as it can walk.
Their voice and {peech are foft and harmonious ; and their dialeé is the
Italian of the Pacific ocean. Their'rude manufactures are truly wonder.
ful, and evince the greateit ingenuity. Their dwellings are about eigh-
teen feet in length, with a few articles of furniture, fuch as trays, bafkets,
mats, and a large cheft. igi
Rutioioy.[ Their deities are numerous ; each family having its Tee,
or guardian fpirit, whom they worfhip at the morai; but they havea
t god, or gods of a fuperior order, ftyled Fwhanow Po, or the
progeny of night. Thefe penevelent people cannot conceive a future
unifhment ; and regard the idea alone as the utmoft effort of human ma-
ignity. But they admit the immortality of the foul, and degrees of fu-
ture eminence and happinefs, proportioned to its virtue and piety.
The Tahouras, or priefts, are numerous, and have great power ; butall
the chiefs officiate ori certain occafions. The human victims are com.
monly criminals, and are killed during fleep ; a curious inftance of fero-
cious fuperftition, mingled with mildnefs of charaéter. :
Zootocy.] The chief animals are hogs, as ufual in all the ifles of Po-
lynefia, and they’ have alfo dogs and er. The bread fruit tree
abounds ; and large plantations are made of cocoa trees and plantains,
The feas {warm with fifth, and in catching them rest ingenuity is dif-
played, the canoes having outriggers, or being doubled, by lafhing two
together.
hough the people of the Friendly Iflands be fuperior in improvements
© Miff. Voyage, 027.
and
and governr
yet the peo
engaging 1
merous ftre¢
ifand is ftill
It has alr
mountains.
to the rifing
in others the
of the vales
fertile, confit
far to the fo
fhowers are 1
fruit begins
while in the
November.
into veins of
of a brownif
which they u
obfidian, is f
cations that ;
above mentic
faid to be fa
race. The cl
north fide of |
called Langa
The next iff
even taken in
nor has any ft
tention in a ge
: Asan appe
Ifland, a detac
coveries yet ex
America, T
and was afterw,
form, the longe
extremity there
places, are of
which are fixe
tion of buts,
java, very por
tall tree in Eaft
vities made in
plant paper-mi
and yams, =T
hatives of Poly
Tus group ¢
Ifles, thote call
more norther|
teimony of the
by Tafman in 1G
POLYNESIA. $25
and government ; and the women of the Marquefas far fuperior in beauty 5
yet the people'in Otaheite are fo polite and affable, and their manners fo
engaging, that joined with the romantic beauty of the country, the nu-
f
le fa.
ich in merous ftreams, and the fuperabundance of {pontaneous productions, this
urious ifland is ftill preferred to all others in Polynefia.
vulets, It has already been mentioned that this ifland confifte as it were of two
r three mountains. Thefe are encircled by a border of low land; from the beach
to the rifing of the hills, in fome places near a mile in breadth, while
ve, Ins in others the rocks impend over the fea. The foil of the low lands, and
ut the of the vales which interfe&t the ridge towards the ocean, is remarkably
iby fertile, confitting of a rich blackith mould. When the trade wind gets
limbs ; far to the fouth it rains on that fide of the ifland; but on the north the
wers* fhowers are lefs frequent and violent. Inthe latter the harveft of bread
he wo. fruit begins about November, and continues till the end of January :
preffure while in the fouthern part it often begins in January and continues till
jofe and November. Qnafcending the hills, the foil changes from a rich loam
ent that into veins of clay, or marl, of various colours. Beneath is a foft fandftone,
tafte or of a brownifh colour; and bafalt alfo abounds, of a fine grain, of
orpeey which they ufed to make their tools. The black volcanic glafs, called
obfidian, 1s faid to be found in the rivers, and alfo pumices, fure indi-
and as cations that a volcano once exifted. The larger frefh water lake
yy It is above mentioned may perhaps have been its crater. This lake is
» Which hid to be fathomlefs ; but its fhores are well peopled by an induftrious
ath fexes race. The chief harbour of Otaheite appears to be Matavia, on the
piece of north fide of the ifland ; but there is another of fimilar note in the S.E.,
an ob- called Langaras.
fore and The next ifland in regard to fize is Ulitea: and the others of this group,
a {quare even taken in its utmoit extent, are of far inferior dimenfions to Otaheite,
and fea. nor has any ftriking fingularity yet been obferved which might claim at-
es. Pat. tention in a senarel dieription:
- As an appendage to this article, fome account may be added of Eafter
ect is the Iffand, a deached and remote region, which however, fo far as the dif-
wonder. coveries yet extend, feems rather to belong to Polynefia than to South
put eigh. America. This ifle appears to have been firft feen by Davis in 1686 5
batkets, and was afterwards vifited by Cook and La Peroufe. It is of a triangular
eT form, the longeft fide being above twenty-five miles in length, and at one
its bee, extremity there appears to have been a volcano. The morais, or burial
ey yp places, are of a remarkable ftruéture ; being a kind of platform, in
p, or the which are fixed fhapelefs and uncouth maffes, rudely carved in imita-
a future tion of bults, fometimes about fifteen feet in height. In thefe a red
man fo lava, very porous and light, is chiefly employed. There is fearcely a
ies es tall tree in Eafter Ifle, nor any brook, the water being retained in ca-
di piety. vities made in the rocks; but the natives are very induftrious, and
; butall
are com:
of fero-
plant paper-mulberries, and bananas, with regular fields of potatoes
natives of Polynetia.
les of Po
ruit tree
plantains.
is dil.
ing two
Vil. FRIENDLY ISLES.
Tuts group extends chiefly from S.W. to N.E. including the Feejee
Iles, thofe called the Ifles of Navigators, and feveral detached ifles in a
more se 5 pofition, The name was impofed by captain Cook, in
tetimony of the difpofition of the people ; but they had been difcovered
by Tafman in 1643, who called the chief ifle, now flyled by the native
7 term
ovements
and
and yams. ‘They have the fame language and features with the other .
ee
he,
. —— = 3 = a pee a = Sa = =
EE a ae een aia eee B : Ms Semone lw a IE ES,
=e coal - pore ae: : Sk Sp ple se eB SR eepeese
526 | POLYNESIA:
term Tongataboo, by the name of Amfterdam *. His account of the
manners of the people correfponds with the more recent and precife in.
formation given by captain Cook, and other late navigators. They are
contrafted with thofe of Otaheite, as being of a more grave and regular
behaviour; and the power of the chiefs is more defpotic. A greater fe.
curity of property Has alfo fuperinduced more ingenuity and induftry ;
but in general the manners and cuftoms approach fu nearly, that a farther
account might appear repetition; and the perfons of the natives are
likewife fimilar, though the chiefs feem inferior in ftature.
In the Miffionary Voyage 1797, there is an interelting map of Ton.
guieliots which thence appears to be a plain country, in an univerfal and
urprifing ftate of cultivation, the whole ifland confifting of. inclofures,
with reed fences about fix feet high, interfe¢ted with innumerable roads,
The whole is fuch a picture of induftry, as to form a reproach to nations
who call themfelves civilized. The length of Tongataboo is only about
fixteen miles, by about eight at its greateft breadth. On the north fide
there is a lagoon, with feveral ifles, conftituting a tolerable harbour.
The commodities are, as ufual, hogs, bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and
yams. .
Though the people of the Friendly Ifles be more free from wars than
thofe of the group before defcribed, yet Tongataboo is often {tained with
human victims ; nor do their ideas of property prevent their {tealing from
ftrangers. Some miffionaries were here left, who imparted fome ufeful
arts to the natives, but the rats were very dettruétive to the European
lants. ‘Thefe, with hogs, dogs, and guanos, conftituted the only qua.
rupeds, till cats were left in the voyage of 1797. The morais feem to
be here called fiatookas ; and are con{tru¢ted in the form of terraces with
high fteps, the material being coral ftone.
To the N.W. are the Feejee ifles, which the Englifh miffionaries dif-
covered to be now fubjeét to Tongataboo.
From the accounts of La Peroute it would appear that the ifles dif-
covered by Bougainville in 1768, and by him called the Istanps or
NAVIGATORS, are by far the moft important’in this large group. At
Maouna, one of thefe iflands, captain De Langle, Lamanon the natu
ralift, and nine feamen were maflacred by the inhabitants, the captain
having unadvifedly given beads to a few of the chiefs, while he neglected
the others. From the chart of La Peroufe it appears that the largett of
thefe iflands, which he calls Pola, is about thirty-feven g. miles in length,
by about half that breadth, being thus inferior to Otaheite, though far
furpafling Tongataboo. Next in gradual diminution of fize, and in poli.
tion from W. to E. are Oyolava, Maouna, and Opoun. If the ace
counts of La Peroufe be not greatly exaggerated, the Iflands of Na-
vigators conititute the moft important group yet difcovered in fou.
thern Polynefia, in regard to fertility and population, At Maouna
the frigates were furrounded with two hundred canoes, full of differ
ent kinds of provifion, fowls, hogs, pigeons, or fruit. The women
were very pretty and licentious; and the men of remarkable flature,
ftrength, and ferocity: fo that they defpifed the maya dimi«
wutive fize of the French. The villages are delightfully fituated in the
midft of fpontaneous orchards, and the huts neatly ereéted, with rude
colonades, and covered with leaves of the cocoa palm. Hogs, dogs, and
fowls, abounded; with the bread fruit tree, the cocoa nut, the banana
® See his defi ription and prints in Dalrymple's Colleiion, vol. ii, p. 75,
the
the guava, and
alone acceptab]
According t
‘Otaheite, in bi
that this ifle, \
400,000 inhab:
Maouna 500 hx
twenty-four hot
here was obferv
while the fea w
able for a feroc
of Polynefia, |
wooden works »
only the bark c
flax, refembling
anative of the |
difufed throug!
The Iflands «
{criptions, in w:
them is a favour
Botany
The plants |
the peninfula of
eflential feature
phers have dittin
and the ifles of
forming a large
ated as they are
tance of about t
that can be prod
moitture is here
a Vigilant and -
pean conttitution
onthe fea coatt
interior vegetabl
thefe countries,
All the Eat
the palmetto, an
food and wine
are they deititut
the neigbouring
the fever-coolin
its kindred {peci
choice of the inhd
the turmeric, the
finite variety of
both cultivated a
reS,
ads,
ons
out
fide
Our.
and
than
with
from
feful
pean
qua-
m to
with
5 dif
5 dif.
DS OF
At
nate
Aptain
Fac
elt of
ngth,
h far
pote
@ AC
f Nas
fous
youna
iffers
bomen
atures
dimi-
in the
rude
8 and
nanay
the
POLYNESIA. gay
the guava, and the otange. Iron and cloth were defpifed, and beads
alone acceptable.
According to La Peroufe the ifland of Oyolava' is at lealt ¢qual to
Otaheite, in beauty, extent, fertility, and population ; and he fuppofes
that this ifle, with the larger ifle of Pola, and that of Maouna, contain
4oo,000 inhabitants *.. Such is the abundance of provifions, that at
Maouna 500 hogs, and an immenfe quantity, of fruit, were procured in
twenty-four hours. ‘T'he natives of Oyolava are alfo of great ftature ; and
here was obferved the largett village in all Polynefia. fmoking like a citys
while the fea was covered with canoes. Though the people be remark-
able for a ferocity of charaéter, fcarcely to be obferved in any other part
of Polynefia, they are {till induftrious and ingenious, polifhing their
wooden works we highly, with tools made of bafalt. They have not
only the bark cloth, but a kind compofed of real thread, probably from
flax, refembling that of New Zealand. Their {pceech was underftood by
anative of the Philippines, being derived from the Malay, a language
difufed through all the fcattered ifles of Polynetta.
The Iflands of Navigators are covered with fruit trees of various‘ de-
{eriptions, in which wood pigeons and turtle doves {warm, and to tame
them is a favourite amufement of the natives.
Botany of the Afiatic [fles, of Auftralafia, and of Polynefia.
The plants which have already been mentioned as characterizing
the peninfula of Hindottan and India beyond the Ganges, form a very
effential feature in the botany of thofe crowded groups that geogra-
phers have diltinguifhed by the names of the Philippines, the Moluccas,
and the ifles of Sunda, and which on this account, may be regarded as
forming a large and important appendix to the Indian continent. Situ-
ated ai they are directly under the equator, and extending to the dif-
tance of about ten degrees north and fouth on each fide of it, every thin
that can be produced in vegetation by the combined influence of heat and
moiture is here exhibited in complete perfection. Being inhabited by
a vigilant and warlike people, and unhealthy in the extreme to an Euro-
pean conttitution, only a few commercial fettlements have been eftablifhed
onthe fea coafts, fo that we remain a!mott entirely ignorant of their
interior vegetable productions, many of which are probably peculiar to
thefe countries,
All the Eaft Indian palms, fuch as the cocoa nut, the areca, the fago,
the palmetto, and the great fan-palm abound in thefe iflands, and furnith
food and wine to the natives at the leaft poffible expence of labour: nor
are they deititute of any of thofe fruit-bearing trees that adorn and enrich
the neigbouring continent: the lufcious mango, the fcented eugenia,
the fever-cooling tamarind, the pomegranate, and the orange, with all
its kindred {pecies and varieties, offer themfelves on every fide to the
choice of the inhabitants, ‘he plantaid tree, the ginger, the fugar-cahe,
the turmeric, the pine apple, the yam, the {weet potatoe, rice, and an ine
finite variety of kidney beans, cucumbers, melons, and gourds, are found
both cultivated and wild in inconceivable luxurtance ; the larger gratfes
* Ta Peroufe, 414. So Cook over-rated the people of Otaheite, now afcertained to
le only 16,050. Milf, Voy. Porfter, Obf. 210, fagely argues that Otuheite contains at
leatt 160,000. In like manuer La Peroute’s 400,000 may probably be 10,000, It is
probable thut there are not above ¥ou,0V0 fouls it all Auftralalia und Polynetia,
alfo,
528 POLYNESIA.
bamboo, and the canna, which have been already
pont ape ein of " Eodiay acquire a -ftill more ftately growth
ae the fwamps of Java and Sumatra than on the banks of the Ganges,
The fandal wood and the precious calambac or aloes wood, the Canaria, *
the gum elemi, the annotta, the caffia, and the
from nen ee aake onl véluatile-woods- and gums, whofe ules
ne tl _ np are unknown to Europe, are produced in thefe iflands in
” “i Sein aksviioues of moifture that diftinguith the In.
dian iflands, conftitute a climate peculiarly favourable for the growth of #
i lities and high aromatie flavour place them
_ — _ Wa seoetheronh: thie therefore is the native country
ey he rr valued {pices. Pepper, both the long and the round, is found
sorts se is largely cultivated in all thefe iflands : the laurus cinnamomum,
th nals bark of which conititutes the pungently fragrant {pice of the
y nit e, is produced chiefly in Sumatra and the neighbouring ifles ;
vit alias aromaticus, the receptacle of whofe bloffom is known in the
caryop o markets by the name of cloves, abounds for the moft part in
ce erg ; and the myriitica, whofe fruit is the nutmeg, and its inner
ves in the mace, by the mean jealoufy of the Dutch Eait Fs se
peri been almoft entirely reitricted to the little iflands o} i .
pany “i Amboyna. But if this part of the globe be enriched by ce
jong ious aromatics, it is alfo armed with the moft active and Aol
pei ag the fame burning fun that exalts the former matures the latter,
fn the ifland of Celebez is produced ee Leena Ar sr Me oie
of a kin 5
refia which exudes a _ oe at "of the fame ifland, is called
{pecies, together ner <phs immortalized by the genius of Dr,
by ost couk tadon ip the-deleteried activity of this tree, that, whey
deprived of all poetic exaggeration, it ftill ate: piping es a
: i mphius we le
of deftruétion: from the fober narrative of Ru Se ies cites pincer
ive within a nearer diftance of it than a fto row}
je “Gell birds icaaonie alighting “ie its a be beret
: i tmo{phere which furrounds it ; an
killed by ey ee i fafety, it is neceflary to cover the ae pee
wi ‘thick cotton cloth: if a perfon targa it pin oc i Aah “ :
: ; anda drop of the freth juice app
Stans if ‘a thould fail seruneibinis imonpliite death, will caufe an ulcer very
9
ifficult to be healed. .
we ae we know of the indigenous vegetables of New rag :
aed nn the immediate neighbourhood of the Britifh fed oF hy
r for the moft part compofed of lofty trees,
jorhtan, | Tun epee nace ire at they are readily pe-
ren i f underwood, {o that they a yP
with little or no interruption of unde : fforded to the few wild
he principal fhelter afforde ae
netrable in any direction, t q {s, feveral feet in length, which over-
animals being in the long matted graf aud vamiin Van tatane Tass eh
In no difcovered region has n
fpreads the open country. fures than in this part of the great fouthern
itertedentblg, ny Ahoy euaradl pl nt is a climbing fhrub, the feeds of
See Lehanth tare seta tetadion! pale tiie ke» roxie
: iow cylindrical pulp tatting -
ae rhe loftel of tha'trees, tnd which fometins “re \ voip
app is the eucalyptus robulta; it yields the br ’
of Dh narake hard red pone 8 been imported into mo by ™
pod yh New Holland mahogany. The red gum is procured fron
je i ds that
ceratopetalum gummiferum, almoit the only one of the native woo oe
will float in wate
to the natural. ¢
ferable to any o}
formofum and ]
houfes. The ot
narkable for the
gardens is chiefly
As we advan
and examine the:
tend in breadth f
the Sandwich ifla
degrees beyond t
relemblance, mox
pected by the dif
moiture, the tw
eculent plants ar
ocean that have y
the Linngean fyi
root in the garde:
pounds; and two
come a mild fari
ilands, the chief j
to the height of |
of a man’s bady ;
head, being gathe
wholefome nourith
eight fucceffive mx
in fuch abundance
fupport of one m
is manufaCtured j
tion of huts and
its milky glutinou
Of almoft equal
erally diffufed t
trees, The fweet
the fan palm is m
fugar-cane, the pay
are inhabitants of ¢
cum, from which
unhappily but too
Crateva or pura
cena terminalis, on
the moraig,
POLYNESIA. 529
vill float in water. A confiderable proportion of the vegetables belong
tothe natural. clafs of the papilionaceovs, yet few even of thefe are re-
ferable to any of the old genera; two elegant fpecies, the platylobium
formofum and pultnea ftipularis, have been introduced into our hot.
ay ate
4 houfes. ‘I'he other indigenous plants are for the moft part but little re-
ms markable for their beauty or ufe, and the notice that they obtain itt our
in gardens is chiefly owing to their being foreigners.
As we advance farther in the great Pacific Ocean towards America,
om and examine the botany of thofe numerous clutters of iflands which ex-
of F tend in breadth from the Ladrones to Eafter Ifland, and’ in len gth from
om Wa the Sandwich iflands under the northern tropic, to New Zealand, twenty
be degrees beyond the fouthern one, we fhall tind many features of general
ni refemblance, modified however in fuch a manner as may naturally be ex-
+m, pected by the different proportions which each receives of warmth and
the moiture, the two great fupports of vegetation. The four following
es 5 eculent plants are found either wild or cultivated in all the iflands of this
the ocean that have yet been vifited, namely, the fweet potatoe, atranged in
ts the Linnzean fyitem as a {pecies of convolvulus ; the yam, whofe tuberous
ewe root in the gardens of Otaheite fometimes attains the weight of thirty
ins, pounds; and two fpecies of arum, which, by culture and roafting, he-
es come a mild farinaceous feod. Of the plants peculiar to the tropical
- the iflands, the chief is the artocarpus, or bread fruit: this valuable tree rifes
adly to the height of more than forty feet, with a trunk about the thicknefs
ier, of aman’s body ; its fruit, which is nearly as large as a young child’s
gum head, being gathered while yet unripe, and roafted in the afhes, is a moft
this vholefome nourifhment, and in tafte refembles'new wheaten bread: for
-alled eight fucceffive months every year does this tree continue to furnifh fruit
. Dr. in fuch abundance, that. three of them are amply fufficient for the
wiles fupport of one man; nor is this the whole of its value, the inner bark
Sits i manufactured into cloth, the wood is excellent for the conftruc-
Sas iy tion of huts and canoes, the leaves ferve inftead of napkins, and of
row; its milky glutinous juice a tenacious cement and birdlime is prepared.
iately Of almoft equal importance with the bread fruit, and even more ge-
oiten rally diffufed through the iflands, are the plantain and cocoa nut
body trees, The fweet orange is found fparingly in the New Hebudes, and
bers the fan palm is met with on the mountains of the Friendly Ifles. The
tian * fugar-cane, the paper mulberry, together with feveral fpecies of figs,
very we inhabitants of all the larger and rocky ifles; and the piper methyltis
cum, from which is prepared the highly intoxicating ava or kava, is
nd is unhappily but too frequent. Three plants are eftcemed facred, viz.
the crateva or purataruru, the terminalia glabra or tara iri, and the dra-
- — on which account-they are chiefly employed in fhading
Port
trees,
ly pes
ah
overe
on lefs
ithern
eds of
oatted
ieight
gun
y the
m the
Hs that
will
M m - AMERICA,
C 53° J
AMERICA.
Extent. — Origin and Progre/s of the Difcoveries and Settlements. — Populas
tion of this Continent.
HE fouthern limit of the American continent is clear]
Extent. ] a eftimated from the ftrait of Magalhaens, or, sccorting
to the French depravation of a Portuguefe name Magellan. But the
northern extent is not afcertained with equal precifion. If Baffin’s bay
really exiit, the northern limit may extend ta 80 degrees, or perhaps to
the pole. But amidft the remaining uncertainty, it will be {ufficient to
eftimate the length of America from the 72d degree of north latitude to
the ftrait of Magalhaens, or the 54th degree of fouth latitude ; a {pace
of 126 degrees, or 7560 geographical miles.
In South America the greatett breadth is from cape Blanco in the weft
to that of St. Roque in fe ealt ; which, according to the befl maps,
is 48 degrees, or 2880 g. miles. But in the north the breadth may be
computed from the promontory of Alafka to the moft eaftern point of
Labrador, or even of Greenland, which would add more than a third
part to the eftimate. In Britifh miles the length of America may be
eftimated at 8800, and fuppofing the breadth of North America 3840
g- miles, it will, in Britifh miles, be about 4400.
Discovery oF AMERICA.) The firlt difcovery of America is generally
afcribed to. Chriftoval Colon, or as commonly called, from the firft Latin
writings on the fubje&t, Chriftopher Columbus. But as it is now univer.
fally admitted that Greenland forms part ef America, the difcovery mutt
of courfe be traced to the firlt vifitation of Greenland by the Norwe
gians, in the year 982; which was followed in the year 1003 by the dif
covery of Vinland,, which feems to have been part of Labrador, or of
Newfoundland. The colony in Vinland was foon deitroyed by inteltine
divifions ; but that in Greenland continued to flourith till maritime inter.
courfe was impeded by the encroaching fhoals of arétic ice. ‘Though the
firft European colony in America was thus loft, the Danes afferted their
right by fettlements on the weftern coaft, called New Greenland, to dif.
tinguith it from the original colony on the eaftern fhores, or what is cal-
Jed Old Greenland.
Greenland continued to be well known ; and, as many Englith veflels
failed to' Iceland in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, it is probable
that this part of America was not wholly unvilited by them.
The chief epochs of American difcovery are :
an 982. Greenland difcovered by the Norwegians, who planted
colony.
seep, Vinland, that is a part of Labrador or Newfoundland, vifitedb
the Norwegians; and a fmall colony left, which, however, foon perifh ,
After this there feems a long paufe, for no farther difcovery in Ame
rica has hitherto been traced, By the utmoft exertion of learned refearch
till the time of Colon.
d day of Auguft. On the 1ft of October he was, by his reckoning, 770
ha Fhe Canaries.
word, and the
otoms indu
ve of Ogtob
light, The ni
been obferved it
mot thip.
peared, two lea
ultation, and e
Colon was the
who regarded t
both fides being
This firit dif
better known b:
mariners, ) being
afterwards difco
on his return, hi
1493 The fe
foutherly he dife
St. Domingo, be
did not return til
1498. Third v
ted to find the §
covered an ifland,
river Oronoco, |
through a countr
the coatt of the ;
paniola or St. Do
in chains {
age, fails to Ame
lon had done, O
tine, a manof {cie
chief pilot. On his
I appeared of a
as aligned to hin
ors, that of indeli
earth,
1500. On his vq
rl, difcovers Braz
dently of the fagad
in obfcurity,
1502, Fourth vy
the continent, and
513. Vafco N
ithmus, the gran
waves, and took p
his difcovery fee
nea formed part of
t feems unnece
“very in this quart
ta; but even
and twenty-fix yea
exiltence was
AMERICA. 531
wobd, and the branch of a tree with freth red berries *.. Thefe and other
{ymptoms induced Colon to order the fhips to lie to in the evening of the
11th of Ogtober, in the certainty of feeing land on the approach of day
light. The night was paffed in gazing expectation 5 and a light having
been obferved.in motion, the ery of land! land! refounded from the head-
pulas mot hip. With the dawn of Friday, OGtober 1ath, a beautiful ifle ape
eared, two leagues to the north. Ze Deum was {ung with fhouts of ex-
ultation, and bir mark of gratitude and veneration to the admiral.
carly Colon was the firft who landed, to the great amazement o: the natives,
‘ding who regarded their vifitors as children of the fun, the aftvnifhment on
the both fides being indeferibable.
s bay This firft difcovery of Colon he called San Salvador, but it is now
ps to better known by the native name of Guanahani, (the Cat iflarid of our
ent to mariners, ) being one of the group called the Bahama ifles. Colon foon
de to afterwards difcovered Cuba and St. Domingo. After vifiting the Azores
{pace on his return, he arrived at Lifbon on the 4th of March 1493.
1493. The fecond voyage of Colon, 2gth September. Steering more
e welt foutherly he difcovered feveral of the Caribbee iflands, founded a town in
maps, St. Domingo, being the firft European fettlement in the new world, and
nay be did not return till 1496.
olnt of 1498. Third voyage of Colon toward the fouth-weft, where he expee-
a third ted to find the Spice Iflands of India. On the firit of Auguft he dif-
may be covered an ifland, which he called Trinidad, not far.from the mouth of the
4 3840 river Oronoco. From the eftuary of this river he judged that it muft flow
through a country of immenfe extent ; and he landed in feveral places on
enerally the coalt of the continent now called Paria. He then returned to Hif-
t Latio puniola or St. Domingos and in October 1500, was fent back to Spain
univer in chains !
mut 1499. Ojeda, ar officer who had accompanied Colon in his fecond voy-
orwes age, fails to America with four fhips, but difcovered little more than Co-
the dift lon had done. One of the adventurers was Amerigo Vefpucci, a Floren-
r, or of tine, a manof f{cience, eminently {killed in navigation, who perhaps aéted as
intettine chief pilot. On his return, Amerigo publithed the firft defcription that had
he inter: "i appeared of any part of the new continent: and the caprice of fame
buch the as aligned to him an honour above the renown of the greateft conquer-
their agi of indelibly imprefling his name upon this vait portion of the
to dif. earth, ;
t is cale 1500. On his voyage to the Eaft Indies, Cabral, the Portuguefe admi-
rl, difcovers Brazil. This undefigned difcovery, evinces that, indepen-
velfels fmm deutly of the fagacity of Colon, America could no longer have remained
in obfcurity. .
1502, Fourth voyage of Colon, in which he difcovers a great part of
the continent, and particularly the harbour of .Porto-bello.
1513. Vafco Nunez de Balboa defcried, from the mountains of the
ifited by fmm Waves, and took poffeffion of it in the name of the Spanith monarch.
perithed This difcovery feems to have terminated the vain expeétation that Ame-
in Ame fame 'ica formed part of A fia.
refearch It feems unneceffary to trace with minutenefs the other epochs of dif-
covery in this quarter. In 151 é the continent was explored as far as Rio»
de Plata; but even in 1518 little was known concerning its weltern parts ;
and twenty-fix years had elapfed fince the firft voyage of Colon, before
the exiftence was rumoured of the empires, or kingdoms of Mexico and
riday the
in 9779
as rorc
‘ortunate
piece 0
woody
@ Robertfon’s America, i, 114,
7 Mm2 Peru.
ithmus, the grand Pacific Ocean; and he afterwards waded into the.
$32 AMERICA.
Peru. Hifpaniola and Cuba ftill continued to be the chief feats of the
Spanifh power. In 1519 Cortez, with eleven {mall veffels, containing 61
tren proceeds to the conqueft of Mexico, which was accomplifhed in 1 521,
Magalhaens, at the fame time having explired the Pacific Ocean, the dif.
covery of the weftern coaft of America became a neceffary confequence,
After many reports concerning the riches of Peru, that country was at
length vifited in 1526‘by Pizarro in a veffel from Panama. In 1530 the
conqueft of Peru was begun by Pizarro, at the head of 36 cavalry and
an account of
yet the colony
rived in 1610;
- conduét firmly
be tedious to d
work, will fup
144 infantry ; and in ten years that empire was divided among his fol. Names of places
Jowers. In 1543 the firft Spanifh viceroy appeared in Peru.
In North America the epochs of difcovery were more flow. Quebec
1497. Giovanni Gaboto a Venetian, called by the Englith John Cabot, Virginia .
who had received a commiffion from Henry VII. in 1495, in the view of Newfoundland
ers a nearer paflage to India, difcovered Newfoundland, fo called by New York
his failors ; and infpe¢ted the American fhore as far as Virginia : but, this New Jerfey
Jand forming merely an obftacle to his wifhes, he returned to England, Plymouth = -
‘1500. Corte de Real, a Portuguefe captain, in fearch of a north.weft
paflage, difcovered Labrador. New Hamphhire
¥513. Florida was difcovered by Ponce, a Spanifh captain.
1534. Francis I. fending a fleet from St. Maloes, to eftablith a fettle.. Delawar
Pennfylvania
ment in North America, Cartier the commander, on the day of St, Lay.
Maflachufett’s B
rence, difcovered the pe gulph and river to which he gave the name of
that faint. In the following year he failed about 300 leagues up this
che ftream to a great cataract; built a fort, and called the country New Maryland
rance.
1578. Sir Humphrey Gilbcrt obtained a patent for fettling lands in Connecticut
Amerjca. Ih 1583 he difcovered and took poffeffion of the harbour of
St. John, and the country to the fouth, but was loft on his return *, Rhode if
ode ifland
- ‘The voyage of Drake round the world ferved to kindle'the enthufiafn
of the En ith ; and Ralegh obtained a patent fimilar to that of Gilben,
1584. ‘T'wo {mall veffels difpatched by Ralegh unfortunately bent their
‘ courfe to that country now called North Carolina, inftead of reaching the
noble bays of Chefapeak or Delawar +. Thefe veffels returned to England
with two of the natives; and Elizabeth affigned to this region the name
of Virginia, an appellation which became laxly applied to the Britih
fettlerhents in North America, till it was confined to a different country
from the original Virginia.
1583. Ralegh fent a {mall colony under the command _of Sir Richard
Grenville, who fettled in the ifle of Roanoke, a moft incommodious and
ufelefs ftation, whence they returned in 1586. The account of this{ettle
New Jerfey .
South Carolina
Penufylvania,
North Carolina
ment, illuftrated with excellent prints, was publifhed under the aufpicedm Ceorgia =.
of Ralegh; who made other unfuccefsful attempts to colonize the coun enncky
: ermont .
try, and afterwards refigned his patent to fome merchants, who were con
tented with a petty trafic, At the death of Elizabeth, 1603, there wa
not one Englifhman fettled in America; and the Spaniards and Portu
guefe shee hal formed any eflablifhment on that vaft continent.
The venerable Hakluyt, anxious that his countrymen fhould partaked
the benefit of colgnies, procured an affociation of men of rank and t
lente for this purpofe ; and a patent was granted by James J., April th
roth, 1606, that monarch being wholly unconfcious that he was abou
to eftablifh an independent and mighty empire. The bay of Chefapeak w
difcovered in 1607, and the firft lafting fettlement.was founded at Jamé
Town in modern Virginia. Captain Smith who afterwards publil
Territory N.W.
of Ohio river,
tnnafee on the
* Having thus me:
lmately conneéted
ney to ftate the
voconneRted with
ticed navigator, yj
harrow lege abfurdl
atic, On anoth
% and the opp
* Makluyt. » # Robertfon’s America, iv. 34
AMERICA. : 533.
f the
5 617
Tre
e dif.
an account of his voyages, dif{played ‘remarkable fpirit and: enterprize :
yet the colony was about to return to England when Lord Delawar ar-
rived in 1610; and though he remained only a fhort time, yet*his prudent
_ conduct firmly eftablifhed the fettlement. The fubfequent events would
Nal be tedious to detail, but the following table, extracted from Mr. Morfe’s
ite work, will fupply the chief epochs.
y ra Names of places. ‘When Settled. By whom.
Quebec - - 1608. By the French.
Cab Virginia - Juve 10, 1610. By Lord Delawar.
eit Newfoundland + June, 1610. By Governor John Grey,
led by a a - about 1614. By the Dutch.
oe Plymouth = + - - 1620. By part of Mr. Robinfon’s con-
nen gregation.
thewel New Hampfhire + + 1623. Byafmall Englith colony near the
mouth of Pifcataqua river.
afte ‘a - 1627. By the Swedesand Finlanders,
Shae Maffachufett’s Bay - 1628. By Captain John Endjcot and
Company.
8 up this Yet :
Maryland ° - 1633. ByLord Baltimore, witha colon
try New " of Roman Catholics, .
: Connecticut © “ 1635. By Mr. Fenwick at Saybrook
) eal near the mouth of Conneéticut
ws rs river,
Rhode ifland + = - 1635- By Mr. Roger Williams, and his
perfecuted brethren.
New Jerfey + ° - 1664. Granted to the Duke of York by
Charles [I., and made a diftinét
overnment andfettled fometime
, Eefere this by the Englifh.
South Carolina + + 1699. By Governor Sayle.
Penofylvania =e Ss 1682. | By William Penn, with a colony
of Quakers,
+ Richard Noth Carolina =- «about 1728. Ereéted into a feparate ag
ndjous sn ; ment; fettled before by the En-
this fettle
e aufpic
P the coun
were con
there wa
and Portu
tC.
partake d
hnk and t
Aprilt
was abou
fapeak :
d at Jame
s publi
nthufiafn
f Gilbert,
bent their
4 ching the
o England
the name
he Britith
t country
; glith.
Georgia + © + 1732. By General Oglethorp,
Kentucky = © + 1773. By Col, Daniel Boon,
Vermont + + about1764. By Emigrants from Conneéticut,
: andother partsof New England.
ey t Aged - 1787. Bythe Ohio and other companies,
Tennaffee on the S. of Kentucky,
‘ Having thus mentioned the progrefs of the Englith fettlements, as ine
timately conneéted with the difcovery of the country, it may be neceiff
briefly to ftate the epochs of a few other remarkable difcaveries, ratlier
vaconneted with thefe fettlements. In 1585 John Davis, an experi-
enced navigator, vifited the weitern coaft of Greenland, and explored the
harrow fea, abfurdly enough called Davis's Strait, which is as wide as the
atic. On another voyage he proceeded as far north as the ifland of
Ditko, and the oppofite fhores of Greenland, which he named London
M m 3 coatt,
534 AMERICA,
coaft. He alfo difcovered Cumberland ftrait ; and upon the whole the
three voyages of this navigator are of great confequence. His farthent
point of difcovery appears to have been Sanderfon’s Hope, lat. 72°,
whence turning to the weft he was impeded hy fields of ice *.
In i Efadfon made his firft voyage ; and is faid to have proceed,
ed along the eaftern coaft of Greenland as far as lat. 82°, but probably
not above lat. 80°, or the fartheft extremities qReshpiiaber en: On his
voyage of 1610 Hudfon difcovered the Straits which bear his name ; and
that inland fea, approaching the Baltic in fize, which has however been
called Hudfon’s Bay.
In 1616 fome public fpirited gentlemen fent Captain Bilot to attempt
a N.W. paffage, William Baffin failed with him as pilot : and this voy.
age is one of the moft fingular in the whole circle of geography. Farex.
ceeding the utmoft ftretch of Davis, they difcovered Horn Sound, Cape
Dudley Diggs, Hakluyt Ifland, Sir Thomas Smith’s Sound, Cary’s
Iflands, Alderman Jones’s Sound, and Sir James Lancafter’s Sound; all
of them totally unknown to any preceding or fucceeding navigator. Baf.
fin thus pretended that he had, in an infend and a narrow fea, proceed.
ed to the latitude of more than 78°, while Captain Cook, the moit fkilful
pf modern navigators, could not exceed 72°, in the open Arétic ocean,
and Davis himfelf was ftopped at 72°, in this very fea, It is remarkable
that no doubt feems even now to be entertained concerning the exiftence
of Baffin's Bay; while it is not improbable that he is merely a bold im,
poftor, who wifhed to recommend himfelf to his employers, by the pretence
of having impofed their names on grand and important features of nature,
and by his numerous Sounds, to have laid a icheme for drawing more
mioney from his protectors, for the inveftigation of a N.W. paffage. Yet
it would feem that ftrong doubts prevailed even at the.time, for thefe fup,
pofed difcoveries were entirely neglected,
Suppofing that Baffin’s Bay were difmiffed from our maps, it is pro.
bable that Greenland is a continuation of the continent, and {pread, to the
_W. about lat. 75°: or it may be detached land, like New Holland, ex.
tending towards the pole, The general line of the Arétic fea in this quar.
ter, as feen by Mr. Hearne 1778; and Mr. Mackenzie 1780, is about ket,
70°; and it is not improbable that at a little higher latitude it coalefces
with what is called Baffin’s Bay ; in which cafe Greenland is a detached
land, and the country on the north of Hudfon's Bay confifts of feveral
large iflands in the Arétic ocean.
“The difcoveries of the Ruffians, and of Cook and Vancouver, feem to
have completed thofe of the weilern coaits of America ; and the jour
neys of Hearne and Mackenzie have imparted fome idea of its confines
on the Arétic ocean.
' Poputation.] The general population of this immenfe continent his
been a {ubje@& of confiderable diicuffion, fome having fuppofed that it
amounted to one hundred and fifty millions, while others infer that there
are only fifteen millions ; and the latter opinion feems to approach nearek
to.the truth. The ridiculous exaggerations of the old Spanith authors
have {welled villages to cities, and thoufands to millions. The favages in
North America are thinly fcattered, as in the extremities of Afia, where 2
thoufand families conftitute a nation. An American author, who hasex;
amined the fubje& with fome attention, obferves that the os agi 0
Britifh America does not nave 200,000 $ and {uppofing the favages an
equal number, and the inha North America
© See Forfter’s Voyeges and Difcoveries in the Nonh, p, 298, &e.
itants of the Spanifh part o
300,000
le the
theft
72°5
oceed,
abably 4
Dn his. 3
e;and |
ar been
attempt
his voy-
Farex.
d, Cape
Cary’s
ind; all’
yr, Baf.
proceed.
it fkilful
ic ocean,
markable
exiftence
bold im;
pretence
F nature,
ing more
ige. Yet
thefe fup.
it 19 pro
ad, to the
land, ex
this quar
about ht.
coalefces
detached
of feveral
ir, feem to
A the jours
$ confines
tinent has
ed that it
that there
ach nearelt
fh authors
favages in
a, where @
yho has ¢x
bulation F
favages a
h America
300,000
|
he Sea eden
bv." Hearn 4978
“ - i}
| 5
SQOSPu vio SPeauciser?™ nel :
’ LIN BAH OS
\ | -
of
4 ~
. dey Vy Ste
wen or a Zouis oe ‘i ’ é\ x
4S. Pedro * f “<
Nonveto
PIMERIA:
}
LUACTIEREA -
}
|
7m NORTH
LAME RICA,
o- apne ore
: wandocna
Vectra Svvorvaniithe lars
Published Wrote. hy Cadel and Davies Nive
Le ght:
, Ka eycntoner® Bg ese
he , As pee > \ y
te Ladgons Stvait a acy
me oF ‘ wal
: 4, oth Reh at
-, y \ Ay, r 4 tt
\ wanctield c.snutl 5 ty, © uf jaa
t \ :
\prorl s o8} aan! ie e pe >
ChHtenvidl -
t Wases
Mba
e ; LAKE
. (Su pene
| \ aa sen Be
4 . t \ %s a on,
a ae | SNAKE Paar
an | 4
% |; Natron
| | )
< \/ '
- a Avie ) S
| ; My May
“4 missoerth fg pheno”
,sheaas | By = ‘ ~ a 34
raucisco Wea bie Os t iseOury rn Pes rveny vie onde
: . 3 ~ + SAS
| ea m . % “x at
; /S.Fe TcAwo,
hs LY By VRE eamowagtses Nal Re
(ee, al @\ ke ba oat? 2 ee Bg es
roe ani 2 Is k* Bc wie $570 ROM ye
hs f- » PACH EIR IA F * { 8 -CRaete sw £
Nonveto S fe
fe «= NacusT0,c8
Ay
a
CULTACANG Aer Rc:
ee eCeseceeceees Be
tbo de S.Jinca oaitl ; A
+ | | vot Retna?
| namaste
a ao
SURO is Pree Runes Ara 4 WR festireaar “WC MA.
o aor oe
Restiesso saieesicans PR n>
a
Pea Sevowamithe Linge Map &e,
Valet. hy Cadell ane? Davies Nivad and boapann Kd Rees Paternoster Ko,
100,000, thefe
United States tc
The empire of }
rica,) from the e
four millions of t
Hence there are
contain more: a
America at two 1
other 8 are m
tants PF South
North America §
¢ As Mexico un
added to five and
vifion; while Sou
teen millions,
Since the publi
this important fu
North America, «
tion, it will be fee
not exceed three 1
totwo millions, _
eight millions and
known to be mucl
will be found to’b
Boundaries. — Origi
Bounpanies, ]
the Great, or Pacifi
the vicinity of Pans
¢d as part of Nort
ys afcertained ;
W. of Hudfon’s B
probably be difcove
may be fafely affu
7 30', as marked
§870 g. miles; mo
tory of Alatka to
Charles, will exceed
land is ynited to
for inftance, to AG
creafed,
| |
/ Leitenctiniammben
“l . {f NontHw
| os LAME RICA,
ee
ORIGINAL PopUL
adopted in the gene
h the ancient popula
ry.
AMERICA. f .: 53 5
j00,000, thefe together will amount to half a million. Suppofing the
United States to have five thillions, there willbe five millions, and a half.
The empire of Mexico, (which he ought to have included in North Ame-
rica) from the enumerations made in fome provinces, probably contains
four millions of the native race, and about three millions of foreign extract.
Hence there are in Mexico feven millions. Peru and Chilican fcarcely
contain more: and he eftimates the other Spanifh poffeffions in South
America at two millions, with four millions for Brazil and Paraguay. The
other parts are moftly wide deferts ; fo that he concludes that the inhabi-
tants of South America'do not exceed twenty millions; nor thofe of
North America Sve millions and a half *,
g As Mexico unqueftionably belongs to North America, feven millions
added to five and a half will yield twelve millions and a half for that di-
vifion ; while South America, by the fame calculation, will contain thir-
teen millions.
Since the publication of this work farther confiderations have arifen on
this important fubje&. In the account of the Spanifh: dominions in
North America, compiled from the moft recent and authentic informa.
tion, it will be feen that the whole inhabitants of all denominations can-
not exceed three millions, if an a€tual enumeration did not reduce them
totwo millions. Hence all North America cannot contain more than
fight millions and a half. The fettlements in South America are well
known to be much lefs populous than New Spain, fo that fix milliona
will be found to‘be a molt liberal allowance for that portion,
NORTH AMERICA.
— Lakes. — Rivers. — Mountains.
Boundaries. — Original Population. — Languaget. — Climate. — Inland Seas.
B HIS divifion of the new continent is bounded on
ouNDARIES, J the eaft by the Atlantic: and on the weft by
the Great, or Pacific Ocean. On the fouth it is underftood to extend ta
the vicinity of Panama, the province of peer ie being univerfally confider-
ed as part of North America. The northern limits have not yet been
clearly afcertained ; but as it is improbable that a flip of land, on theN,
W, of Hudfon’s Bay, fhould extend far to the north, the limit may
probably be difcovered about 74° or 75°. In the mean time 72 degrece
may be fafely affumed ; whence to the fouthern boundary, about N. lat,
7 30', as marked in the map of Lacruz, there will be 64} degrees, or
$870 g. miles ; more than 4g00 Britifh. The breadth from the promone
tory of Alafka to the extreme point of Labrador, or the Cape Bf St.
Charles, will exceed the length. If it thould be difcovered that Green-
land is ynited to the arétic lands of America, as Kamtfchatka is,
for r+ aaa to Afia, both the length and breadth will be greatly en.
creafed,
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] In purfuing the arrangement of topics, bere
adopted in the general defcription of a continent, the firft which occurs
the ancient population ; but our knowledge of, the American languages
© Callender’s Key, Sc. 1798,
Mm 4 is
,
$36 NORTH AMERICA.
is {till fo imperfect that the fubje@ is involved in great doubts. None of
the native nations of America difplay the fmalleft trace of the oblique
eyes, and other remarkable features by which the inhabitants of eafter
Alia are diftinguithed. Far from this, Pallas, Leffeps, Tooke, and other
fkilful ‘inquirers, have pronounced that the Techuks and Koriaks up.
doubtedly procecded from America, as they have not one Afiatic linea.
ment.
LanceuaGe. ] It is to neler’ that neither in North nor South
America, have the languages been compared, analyfed, and claffed, as
- has been done with regard to the nurherous tribes fubjeét to Ruffia and
(hina. Upon one point only do inveftigators feem to be agreed, that
the friendly and helplefs people in the fartheft north, called I{kimos
by the German fettlers, and in the French mode of [pelling Efqui.
maux, are the fame race with the Samoieds of Afia, and P ablendet of
Europe. '
The curious queftion concerning the oe of America can only
be duly examihed after the various dialeéts-have been compared with tho
of Africa; for to thofe df Europe, or Afia, they certainly bear nore.
femblance. ‘To trace the population from the north of Afia, not to men.
tion the pofitive contradiction of faéts, would be an unneceffary reftriction
of the fubje@, as the progeny of fo cold a latitude is ever found thinly
{cattered, fecble, and unenterprizing ; while if we confider the proximity
of Africa, and the many copper coloured: nations which are there to be
found, there will: be little reafon to hefitate concerning ‘the progrefs of
the Africans to America, as well as to New Holland. This refource |
alone reinains ; for it has already been feen that the language of the Ma
lays, who extended themfelves fo far to the eaft of Alia, has no con.
nection with that of the Americans,
Proauessive GeocrAruy.] The progreflive geography hae already
been treated under the general head of America. The northern and
central parts of this divition are flill imperfe@ly known. The number of
immenfe lakes, a fingular feature of North America, began gradually to
be difclofed by the French, in the 17th century. Thofe of Carver,
Hearne, and Mackenzie, have added greatly to former difcoveries; but
of the wettern regions little is known, except the thores.
Reurcron.] ‘The ruling religion of North America is the Chriftian,
under various forms in the United States ; and the Roman,Catholic in
the Spanifh dominions, and among the French of Canada. That of
the native nations fhall be briefly confidered in the account of the chief
tribes.
Cuimars.] The climate of North America is enemy various, as
may be conceived in a region extending from the vicinity of the equator
to the arétic circle. In general the heat of fummer, and the cold of win.
ter, are more intenfe than in moft parts ‘of the ancient continent. Near
Hudfgn’s Buy Farenheit's thermometer. has rifen in July to 85, and funk
in January to 45 below o. The predomirant winds are here from the
wett 5 arid the fevereft cold is from the N.W. "The middle provinces are
remarkable for the untteadinefe of the weather, particularly the quick
tranfitiong from heat to cold. Snow falls plentifully in Virginia, but fel-
dom lics above a day or two, yet after a mild, or even warm day,
James river, where it is two or three miles in breadth, has in one nigh
been clothed with ice, fo as to be paffed by travellers. Such furprilug
alterations feem to proceed from the fudden change of the wind to the
N.W. The provinces of South Carolina and Florida are’ fubje& to
unfuflerable heat, furious whirlwinds, hurricanes, tremendous thunder
; an
and fatal light
pernicious to t
Few opport
in the weftern J
in general mod
heat of {umme
pearance, even
glaciers feem p¢
INLAND SEA
mentioned the p
fon’s Bay, or r
which is probal
arctic Oceans,
fhewn ; Dut the
be diltinguithe
chigan, and Ht
in length; and
420 B. miles in
Of all thefe
a molt favourab
pelazo of Nort
gulf a fingular ¢
‘ream, paiies t
from the accum
from other parts
warmer, . ver
produce :
The vw se
eftuary of two.
cerning their Ai
illuttration of th
known eftuary c
cember to April
land, and by nu
Bank. This ce
by about 140 in
agreat {well an
roth of May, an
of ced fith, tak
average is {even
length, and wei
commonly fith o
led by that of ¢
bouring ifle of |
There are alf
Nova Scotia, p.
from the Frencl
about eight leag
middle, filled e1
Hudfon Sea |
fon Strait, to it
95°, or thirty d
1050 Britith, e:
lal
NORTH AMERICA. 537
and fatal lightnings ; and the fudden changes of the weather are alike
pernicious to the human frame.
Few opportunities have yet arifen for accurate accounts of the climate
in the weftern parts of North America. That of California feems to be
in general moderate and pleafant, though fomewhat incommoded by the
heat of fummer. In lat. 59° the land has a moft barren and wintery ap-
pearance, even in June: the gloom is increafed by frequent fogs, and the
glaciers feem perpetual *,
INLAND sEAS. | Among the inland feas of North America may be
mentioned the gulfs of Mexico, California, and St, Lawrence; with Hud- -
fon’s Bay, or rather Hudfon’s Sea, and what ‘s called the ftrait of Davis,
which is probably a fea.of communication between the Atlantic and the
arctic oceans. ‘The. exiftence of Baffin’s ‘Bay is doubtful, as already
fhewn ; Dut there are feveral lakes of fo great a fize that they deferve to
be diltinguifhed by the: name of feas, particularly lakes Superior, Mi-
chigan,‘and Huron, which conftitute one piece of water, about 560 miles
in length; and the great Slave Lake in the north is laid down as about
20 B. miles in length.
Of all thefe feas the gulf of Mexico is the moft celebrated, as lying in
a molt favourable climate, and prefenting at its entrance that grand archi-
pelazo of North American iflands called the Welt Indies. From this
gulf a fingular current fets towards the N.E.; this current, called the gulf
ream, paiies to the banks of Newfoundland, and is fuppofed to proceed
from the accumulation of waters by the trade wind. It is diftinguifhed
from othe? parts of the ocean by the gulf weed; is eight or ten 5
egrees
warmer, . ver — in the night ; and when it arrives in cool latitudes
produce os. ;
The «> 5 ..e fhore prefents the gulf of California, which feems an
eftuary of two large rivers. The jealous filence of the Spaniards con-
cerning their American poffeffions affords but few materials for a proper
illuftration of their geography. The gulf of St. Lawrence is the well
known ettuary of a river of the fame name, es frozen from De-
cember to April. This noble gulf is clofed by the ifland of Newfound.
land, and by numerous fand banks, particularly what is called the Great
Bank. This celebrated fithing {tation is more than 400 miles in length,
by about 140 in breadth; the water being from 22 to 50 fathoms, with
agreat {well and frequently a thick fog. The chief fifhery begins on the
roth of May, and continues till the end of September ; the greateft number
of ced fifh, taken by a fingle fifherman, being twelve thoufand, but the
average is feven thoufand: the largeft fifh was four feet three inches in
length, and weighed ag pounds. More than 500 Englith veffels
commonly fith on the bank s and the number ufed fometimes to be equal.
led by that of the French, who had formerly a fettlement in the neigh-
bouring ifle of Cy pe Breton,
There are alfo great fifheries on the banks which lie off thé coafls of
Nova Scotia, particularly on that called Saddle Ifland Bank, or rather
from the French Sadie, the [fle of Sand, which is in the thape of a bow,
about eight leagues in length, with a narrow pond of fea water in the
middle, filled every tide by a narrow inlet.
Hudfon Sea may be coniidered as extending from the entrance of Hud.
fou Strait, to its weftern extremity, that is from long. 65 W. to long.
95°, or thirty degrees, which in lat. 60° will be goo g. miles, or about
1050 Britifh, exceeding the Baltic in length as well as breadth, The
@ La Peroufe, ii. 67, + Pennant, A, Z, ceevii,
fhores
538 NORTH AMERICA.
fhores are generally rocky and precipitous, and the climate is almoft the
perpetual abode of winter, the hot weather in June being brief though
violent, This fea is far from abundant in fith, but the common whale ig
found ; and the Beluga, or white whale, is taken in confiderable numbers
in June, when the rivers-in the fouth have difcharged their ice. Large
fturgeons are alfo caught near Albany. The large tract of territory on
the fouth of this fea is the property of the Hudfon’s Bay Company, whofe
chief profits are derived from furs. This fea has been x din explored
for a N.W. paflage, perhaps as little tobe expe&ted as a page from
- the Baltic into the Arétic ocean, or the Euxine. Chefterheld
fingular ftrait ftretching far to the welt, but terminates in a magnificent
lake of freth water ; communicating with this fea by what shay be called
a broad river, the adjacent land being level, rich in pafture and abound.
ing with deer.*. But it is probable that in the N.E. Hudfon Sea opens
into the Arctic ocean, where the perpetual ice prefents a complete barrier
to commercial views.
The Gulf or Sea of Davis may be confidered as part of the Sea of
Hudfon, and probably joins the Arétic ocean, What is called Baffin’s
Bay is laid down as extending from 46° W. long. to 94°, which, fup.
pofing the degrees only 16 g. miles, would yield a length of 768 g. miles;
and the breadth on the weft fide is reprefented as little inferior. As this
fea is perhaps wholly imaginary, it is unneceffary to enlarge on the fub.
jet: and it fhall only be obferved that the weft coaft of Greenland has
not been explored beyond lat. 72°, or Sanderfon’s Hope, and an old
Danifh fettlement called Opernevig. In the midft of Baffin's Bay many
maps prefent a large traét called James Ifland.
‘As in the general defcription of Afia, not only the Cafpian Sea, but
thofe of Ard and Baikal have been commemorated, fo the vai lakes,
above mentioned, may here be confidered as detached inland feas.
Laxes.] The lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron, in this point of
view, form one large inland fea, which might be called the fea of Canada,
or of Huron, This expanfion of ‘water, as already mentioned, is about
560 miles in length, and more than 180 at its greateft breadth : according
to the French charts that part of this fea, which is called Lake Supe.
rior, is not lefs than 1500 miles in circumference, ‘The greater part of
the coaft feems to confilt of rocks and uneven ground, like thofe of the
fea of Baikal. The water is pure and tranfparent; and the bottom
generally compofed of large rocks. There are feveral iflands, one of
which, called Minong, is about 60 miles in length. More than thirty
rivers fall into this lake, fome of them of confiderable fize, but the geo.
phy is far from being perfect. The banks of a river on the N.W.
abound with native copper. The chief fith are fturgeon and trout : the
latter being caught at all feafons, and faid to weigh from twelve to fifty
unds+. This Bag: of the Sea of Canada opens into the lake Huron,
y the ftraits of St. Mary, abaut 40-miles in length, and in fome places
only one or two miles in breadth; with a rapid towards the N.W. ex.
tremity, which may however be defcended by canoes, and the profpects
are here delightful. The ftorms on this large expanfe of water are as
dangerous as thofe on the ocean, the waves breaking more quick, and run.
ning nearly as high. The circumference of that part called Lake Huron
is faid to be about 1000 miles. Another fhort {trait leads into the third
lake called MicuiaAn, alfo navigable for ips of any burthen. Whea
the population of North America thal] have diffufed itfelf towards the weit,
+ Morfe, 197,
* Pennant, A. Z. ccxy.
thefe
thefe lakes ms
{ciences now u
of the Black §
Baltic here to
that thefe lake
The lake of
an inland fea *
fea, a recent
to the Arétic «
is about rye
hy of this
oe harge lake
which remain
The {maller
to which they
Rivers. } I
confined within
{cription becom
great & fcale t
nations, whenc¢
river of Amazo
rica, and an eq
Miffiffippi, or
and in part to §
defcribe the chi
and South Ame
Length of cc
diftin€tion of a
tinguifhed amot
been traced to
lat. 29°, after <
late the fources
about 600 B. a
be tranfcribed f
thor muit have |
“« The Mifli
their numerous
rivers from the
with increaffng |
jito the gulf c
this river, and
waters after its
rection of the |
mouth of the |
ftraight line, is
miles, by cuttin
not thirty yards
“Tn the {pri
frong, that it is
is remedied in |
generally found
® According to |
hy the river Nelfo
America, edition 16
amiw te
+ ree t Baar a
NORTH AMERICA. 539
thefe lakes may become the feats of flourifhing cities, and of arts and
{ciences now unknown in Europe. Their latitude correfponds with that
of the Black Sea, and the gulf of Venice; nor are the rigours of the
Baltic here to be apprehended. From the defcriptions it does not appear
that thefe ldkes are ever impeded with ice.
The lake of Winnipeg or Winipic may alfo well afpire to the name of
an inland fea * ; but it yields confiderably to the great Slave lake or rather
fea, a recent difcovery, from which Mackenzie's river extends its courfe
to the Arétic ocean. The Slave fea, according to Arrowf{mith’s maps,
is about 200 miles in length by 100 at its peta breadth. The geo-
graphy of this lake is rather imperfect; and it is not improbable that
other lage lakes may be found in the weftern regions of North America,
which remain unexplored.
The {maller lakes fhall be briefly defcribed in the divifions of territory
to which they belong.
Rivers. ] In the ancient continent the rivers and mountains are ufually
confined within the limits of fome great ftate, to which of courfe the de-
{cription becomes appropriated. But in America thefe features are on fo
great & fcale that they pervade immenfe territories, divided among diftin®
nations, whence it would be difficult to aflign a juft arrangement. The
river of Amazons, for example, purfues a long courfe in Spanifh Ame-
rica, and an equal extent through the Portuguefe territory. Whe river
Miffiffippi, or rather Miffouri, belongs in part to the American States
and in part to Spain. Amidit this uncertainty, it feems preferable to
defcribe the chief rivers and mountains under the general heads of North
and South America, :
Length of courfe feems univerfally and juftly confidered as the chief
diftinétion of a river, in which point of view the Miffiffippiis the moft dif-
tinguithed among thofe of North America; its fource having already
been traced to three fmall lakes above lat. 47°, and it enters the feain
lat. 29°, after a comparative courfe of about 1400 B. miles, Nay of
late the fources of the Miffouri (the chief ftream) have been deteéted
about 600 B. miles more remote. The account of this noble river hall
be tranfcribed from a recent fyftem of American geography, as the aue
thor muft have had feveral opportunities of being wel informed,
“ ‘I'he Mifliffippi receives the waters of the Ohio and Illinois, and
their numerous branches from the eaft; and of the Miffouri, and other
rivers from the welt. Thefe mighty ftreams united are borne down
with increaffng majefty, through vait forefts and meadows, and difcharged
jito the gulf of Mexico. The great length and uncommon depth of
this river, and the exceflive muddinefs and falubrious quality of its
waters after its junction with the Miffouri, are ver Smaslan The di-
reCtion of the channel is fo crooked, that from New Orleans to the
mouth of the Ohio, a diitance which does not exceed 460 miles in a
ftraight line, is about 865 by water. It may be fhortened at leaft 250
miles, by cutting acrofe eight or ten necks of land, fome of which are
not thirty yards wide. e
“Inthe {pring floods the ba pm is very high, and the current fo
ftrong, that it is with difficulty it can afcended ; but this difadvantage
is remedied in fome meafure by eddies, or counter currents, which are
generally found in the bends clofe to the banks of the river, and affitt the
\ Yager to Mr. Mackenzie, p. ry lake difcharges poi re epee Bey
y the river Nelfon, qn elongation of the Spfkathawin, See Asrowfmith’s map ‘
America, edition 1602, °
afcending
540° NORTH AMERICA.
_ afcending boats. Thecurrent at this feafon defcends at the rate of about
five miles an hour. In autumn, whea the waters are low, it does not run
fafter than two miles; but it:is rapid in fuch parts of the river as have cluf.
ters of iflands, fhoals, and fand banks. The circumference of many of
thefe thoals being feveral miles, the voyage is longer, and in fome parts.
more dangerous than in the fpring. The merchandize neceflary for the
commerce of the Upper Settlements, on or near the Miffiffippi, is con.
veyed in the fpring and autumn in batteaux, rowed by eightcen or
twenty men, and carrying about forty. tons. From New Orleans to
the Illinois the voyage is commonly performed in eight or ten weeks. A
prodigious number of iflands, fome of which are of great extent, inter.
{perfe that mighty river. Its waters, after overflowing its banks below
the river [bberville on the eaft, and the river Rouge on the weft, never
return within them.again, there being many outlets or ftreams by which
they are conducted into the bay of Mexico, more efpecially on the weit
fide of the Miffiffippi, dividing the country into numerous iflands. Below
the Ibberville the land begins to be very low on both fides of the river,
acrofs the country; and gradually declines as it approaches nearer to
the fea. The ifland of New Orleans, and the lands oppofite, are to all
appearance of no long date, for in digging ever fo little below the furface
you find water, and great quantities of trees. :
‘¢ The nearer you approach the fea this truth becomes more ftriking,
The bars that crofs mott of thefe {mall channels, opened by the current,
have been multiplied by means of the trees carried down with the ftreams ;
one of which, ftopped by its roots or branches in a fhallow part, is fuf.
ficient ta obftru€&t the paffage of thoufands more, and to fix them at the
fame place. Aftonifhing colleCtions of trees are daily feen in paffing be.
tween the Balize and the Miffouri. No human force is fufficient to re.
move them, and the mud carried down by the river ferves to bind and
cement them together. They are gradually covered, and every inunda.
tion not only extends their length and breadth, but adds another layer to
their height. In lefs than ten years time, canes, fhrubs, and aquatic tim.
ber, grow on them, and form points and iflands which forcibly thift the
bed of the river.
‘* Nothing can be afferted with certainty refpe@ting the length of this
river *. Its fource is not known, but fuppofed to be epirait of three
thoufand miles from the fea as the river runs. We only know that from
St. Anthony’s falls, in lat. 45°, it glides with a pleafant clear current, and
receives many large and very extenfive tributary ftreams, hefore its junc-
tion with the Miffouri, without greatly increafing the breadth of the
Miffifippi, though they do its depth and tapidity. The muddy waters
of the Miffouri difcolour the lower part of the river, till it empties into
the bay of Mexico. The Miffouci is in faét the principal river, being
longer, broader, and deeper than the Miffiffippi, and affords a more
extenfive navigation. It has been afcended by French traders about
12 or 1300 miles; and from the depth of the water, and breadth
of the river at that diftance, it appeared to be navigable many miles
farther.
« The flime which the annual floods of the river Miffiffippi leave on
the furface of the adjacent fhores may be compared with that of the Nile,
which depbfits a fimilar manure, and for many centuries paft has infured
* The Miffifippi has recently heen explored by Pike to its fource, and a map publifhed
by the American Government, ‘The account of the journey hes been published in London
in the prefent year,
the
the fertility
excellency o
tion will eq
and power o
centre, upo
« The O
and bofom fi
only excepte
its junction
acrofs *,”’
The lengt
junction wit
commonly b
twelve feet
great rivers
Allegany, b
From the
capricious di
.as the. chief
fured on the
‘to give a gen
the Miffori
jn river
or its breadt
meafured on
aud the Rio d
fouri and rive
Ob. Somed
large rivers in
whole, or a pz
the length of
pearance in m:
A favourable
more navigab]
alpine rocks o
The noble r
in North Ame
navigable for {
from the fea.
from two to fc
may be confid
miles from the
The other ct
bafca, the Unj
into the gulf
Nelfon river ar
into that fea;
obfervation mu
which, confine
it join the Paci
my. difclofe for
he travels «
* Morfe's ‘Amer
3 See the article
NORTH AMERICA. 541
the fertility of Egypt. When its banks fhall have been cultivated as the
excellency of its {oil and temperature of the’climate deferve, its popula-
tion will equal that of any other part of the world. The trade, wealth,
and power of America may at fome future period depend, and perhaps
centre, upon the Miffiffippi.
«¢ The Ohio is.a moft beautiful river. Its current gentle, waters clear,
and bofom fmooth and unbroken by rocks and rapids, a fingle inftance
only excepted. It is one quarter of a mile wide at Fort Pitt; and at
its junction with the Mifliflippi neither river is more than goo yards
acrofs *.”’ ;
The length of the Ohio, with all its windings, from Fort Pitt to its
junction with the Miffiffippi amounts to 1188 miles. The inundations
commonly begin with April, and fubfide in July. A veffel drawing
twelve feet water might fafely navigate from Pittfburg to the fea. Two
reat rivers unite to form the Ohio, namely the Monongahela, and the
Allegany, both of them fubfervient to navigation. * 4
From the preceding ample defcription it appears that, {e:*:..z-afide the
-eapricious diftin&tions of the favage tribes, the Miffouri muit be regarded
a8 the. chief river which conftitutes what is called the Miffiffippi. Mea-
fured on the fame merely comparative fcale which has been adopted
to give a general idea of ‘the length of the rivers in Europe and Afia,
the Miffouri or Miffiffippi will be about 2000 miles in length. The
great river of St. Lawrence is far inferior, being chiefly remarkable
Pe ite breadth. In South America the’Maranon, or river of Amazons,
meafured on the fame comparative fcale, will be found to be about 2300,
aud the Rio.de la Plata about 1900. The Kian Ku exceeds the Mif-
fouri and rivals the Maranon, which laft is probably alfo rivalled by the
Ob. Some deceptions have however arifen on this curious fubje&, as the
large rivers in America have been computed by actual navigation of the
whole, or a part, in which every winding is taken into the account ; while
the length of thofe in Afia has been merely affumed from the general ap-
pearance in maps, without due attention to the innumerable deviations,
A favourable climate and other circumftances render the American rivers
more navigable, the Ob being impeded by ice, and the Kian Ku by the
alpine rocks of Tibet.
The noble river of St. Lawrence is univerfally regarded as the fecond
in North America, ‘being not lefs than 90 miles wide at its mouth, and
navigable for fhips of the line as far as Quebec, a diftance of 400 miles
from the fea. Near Quebec it is five miles in breadth, and at Montreal
from two to four +. Though there be fome rapids, yet this grand river
may be confidered as navigable to Kingfton and the lake Ontario, 743
miles from the fea.
The other chief rivers in North America are the Safkafhawin, the Atha-
bafca, the Unjiga or Mackenzie’s river ¢, the Rio del Norte, which flows
into the gulf of Mexico; that of Albany, which joins Hudfon’s Bay:
Nelfon river and ‘Churchill river are a'fo confiderable ftreams which flow
into that fea; but their geography is far from being perfet. The fame
obfervation muft be extended to the Oregan, or great river of the weit,
which, contined by a chain of mountains, runs S., till by a weitern bend
it join the Pacific. But the difcovery of the weftern regions of America
be gp fome coutiderable {treams in that quarter.
he travels of Major Pike have already difclofed the long courfe of
® Morfe's ‘American Geo phy. + Weld, ii. 56. 8vo,
3 See the article Native Tribes for farther details. '
6 the
542 NORTH AMERICA.
the Red river of Louifiana, which rifes in the mountains on the N.E, of
New Mexico. The river Akenfa is alfo an important ftream.
Mounrtatns.] The mountains of North America are far from rival.
ling the Andes in the fouth. Some irregular ranges pervade the ifthmus,
but it feems mere theory to confider them as:conneéted with the Andes,
as they have neither the fame character nor direction. In the ifthmus
there are alfo feveral volcanoes ; but the natural hiitory of Spanith Ame.
rica is extremely imperfe&.
The centre of North America feema to prefent a vaft fertile plain,
watered by the Miffouri and its auxiliary ftreams. On the weft, B far
as difcovered, a range of mountains proceeds from New Mexico in a
northern direétion, and joins the riige called tue Stoney Mountains,
which extend to the vicinity of the. tic ocean. The Stoney Mountains
are faid to be about 3500 feet above their bafe, which may perhaps be
000 feet above the fea. In general, from the accounts of navigators who
fete vifited this coaft, it feems to refemble that of Nerway, being a wide
alpine country of great extent ; while the fhote prefents innumerable
creeks and iflands. This traét, from the Stoney Mountains and Mac.
kenzie’s river weftwards to the fource of the Oregan aad Beering’s ftrait,
may perhaps contain the higheft mountains in North America, when
completely explored by the eye of fcience. On the north-eaft, Green.
land, Labrador, and the countries around Hudfon Sea, prefent irregular
maffes covered with eternal {fnow, with black naked peaks, refembling in
form the fpires of the Alps, but of far inferior elevation, mountains ge.
nerally decreafing in height towards the pole.
The moft celebrated mountains in North America are thofe called the
Apalachian, pafling through the territory of the United States from the
S.W. to the NE. According to the beft maps, they commence on the
north.of Georgia, where they give fource to many rivers running fouth
to the gulf of Mexico; and to the Tenaffee and others running north,
There are, feveral collateral ridges, as the Iron or Bald Mountains, the
White Oak Mountains, and others; the exterior fkirt on the N.W.
being the Cumberland Mountains. The Apalachian chain thence ex.
tends through the weftern territory of Virginia, accompanied with its
collateral ridges, the breadth of the whole being often feventy miles, and
proceeds through Pennfylvania, then pafles Hudfon river; and afterwards
rifes to ter elevation, but feems to expire in the country of New
Brunfwick.
The Apalachian chain may thus extend about goo g. miles, a length
unrivalled by any European mountains, except the Norwegian Alps.
In no chain perhaps are the collateral ridges more diftin& ; and a natu.
ralift would at once pronounce that the central, or higheft, muft be gra-
nitic, the next fchiftofe, and the exterior belts calcareous. The granite
feems commonly to confift of white feltfpar, blueifh or rather pellucid
quartz, and black mica. The fchiftofe band, generally metalliferous
in other regions, here prefents copper ore; and in Canada lead and filver
are faid to have been difcovered. The lime-ftone contains, as ufual, many
petrifactions. The height of the chief fummits does not appear to be
recifely afcertained, but probably does not exceed 3000 feet above the
eas and they are often clothed with foretts,
The late travels of the duke de Rochefoucalt in North America pre-
fent fome valuable information concerning the orology *. The primitive
calcareous rock is mingled, in veins or banks, with the granitic. Near
© See alfo the Journal des Mines, No, 44,
Philadel
' Bofton, the rocks
' that region, the fn
Philadelphia large
veins of hornblen
remarkable featu
proach neareft to
careous; and th
breccia, and argi
furrounded with ¢
treal to the fea, t
{chiftus; but tow
at a confiderable
retired. This ob
tains in North Ar
The mountains
North America, a
mus, the kingdon
phy are far
arien, the Ande
ridge called Sierr
on the weft of th
confiderable chain
satural divifion b
chain is called the
N. and S., and o
Of the natusze an
ticular account.
cended a mountain
and he adds that
of twenty leagues.
Divi
Divistons. ]°
ern and the fouthe
Americans as cont
divided them into
nominate all thofe
others inland fates
objeétions,
* The catara& of Ni
t Voyage to Californ
‘NORTH AMERICA. 543
Philadelphia large pieces of talc appear, inftead of mica. There are alfo
veins of hornblende and quartz, in the pofition of metallic veins. It isa
remarkable feature in the mineralogy that the granitic mountains ap-
proach neareft to the fea, while at a greater diftance the rocks are cal-
careous; and the red primitive limeftone is fometimes covered with
breccia, and argillaceous fchiftus. The lakes of Upper Canada ‘are
{urrounded with calcareous rocks ; while in Lower Canada, from Mon-
treal to the fea, the granite predominates *. ' Towards New York and
' Bofton,’ the rocks are of a foft granite interfperfed with limeftone and
{chiftus; but towards Carolina and Florida the granitic mountains are
at a confiderable diftance from the fea, which feems gradually to have
retired. This obferving traveller is of opinion that the’ higheft moun-
tains in North America do not exceed 4 or 5000 feet.
The mountains in the ifthmus, as well as thofe in the weftern part of
North America, are certainly of far fuperior elevation. But of the ifth-
mus, the kingdom of Mexico, and California, the natural hiftory afd
phy are far from being clearly illuftrated. In the province of
arien, the Andes, according to the beft maps, feem to expire in the
ridge called Sierra Tagargona, which may be faid to be loft in the fea
onthe weft of the gulf of Darien. On the weft of that prevince a
confiderable chain paffes north and fouth, which may be regarded as a
natural divifion between the two great portions of America. This
chain is called the Sierrade Canatagua. The ridges in Veragua alfo run
N. and S., and on the weft of that province is the volcano of Varu.
Of the natuse and height of the mountains in Mexico there is no par-
ticular account. Not far from Vera Cruz, Chappe D’Auteroche af-
cended a mountain of great height, which feems to have been volcanic + 3
and he adds that the mountgin of Orifaba is faid to be the higheft in
' that region, the fnowy fummit being vifible from Mexico at the diftance
of twenty leagues,
—_—_—_
THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
CHAPTER I.
_ HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY,
Divifions. — Boundaries. — Hiflorical Epochs.
Divrstons.]° "eon fertile and flourifhing ftates have by fome
writers been reyarded under two divifions, the north-
en and the fouthern, but this claffification is reprobated by patriotic
Americans as containing the feeds of political divifion. Others have
divided them into northern, middle, and fouthern: while others de-
nominate all thofe that border on the ocean Atlantic ftates, and the
prone inland Rates, But a general table can along be liable to no
objeétions, :
* The cataract of Niagara falls over a fine white calcareous freeftone,
t Voyage to Californie, p. 39. See Spanith dominions, Diftrie
< SORCE a
= >
°. f oa * .
=. - 9 . ~£
aa a 5 EGS ERR OO er we caioalaat z eis . steed bist . p . .
af eS BIT ek F i OS PL Te PA ah a Ne cs TNs faye’ POE gC aR RS ayn vs
j
544 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
Diftri& of Maine
Vermont .
New Hamphhire
Maffachufets
Rhode Ifland
Conneticut
New York.
New Jerfey
Pennfylvania
Delaware -
Maryland -
-. Virginia .
Kentucky; -
North Carolina
South Carolina
Georgia -
-. Tennaffee .
Ohio + -
Louifiana +
The population was alfo thus eftimated, under another form, in 1801,
and muft have confiderably increafed fince that period.
Under 10 years of age
10 and under ‘16
16 and under 26, including
heads of families
26.and under 45,
45 and upwards
All other free perfons, except Indians not taxe
Bounpartes.] The eaftern boundary is the Atlantic,Ocean, and the
wettern the great river Mifliffippi, which is confidered as a limit of Spanifh
America t. On the north, an ideal line, pervading the great lakes of
* The numbers are from the Cenfus 1801, including the flaves, being the laft enu-
meration which has been made.
+ > The inhabitants of Louifiana, are 49,975, including 12,920 flaves. Account of
Louifiaga, 1804. The diftri&t of Columbia, and the Miffiffippi and Indiana territories
are not included, “The population of Upper Loujfiana is only eftimated by Volney ut about
2,400. peefons, . The-banks of the Miffouri are alregdy colonized s0.the diftance of ebou
forty miles above its junétion with the Miffiffippi by more than 3000 inhabitants, and the
number is continually increafing. Mich. 119. :
t But Louifiana (fee the Spanith fettlements) is now regarded as part of the United
States ‘
151,719*
1544465
183,858
422,845
69,122
251,002
§86,203
211,149
602,365
645273
3493692
886, 149
220,960
478,103
3452491
162,684
105,602
45365
(meneame Th
552915147
Free Free » Total,
White Males, White Females,
- —- 7339825 7255768 154394593
- 3432205 += 3233465 = 606,670
© 3939074 401,811. 794,885
ditto 4325531 ~405,485 838,016
ditto 262,785 354:727 = 517,512
ap'45:400 2,111,256 4,256,676
Pape 109,335
Total Whites 4,366,011
Slaves 894,452
5260,463
=e ‘Canada,
Canada, is conti
the fouth of
mountains N. #
which falls into
about lat. 31°,
Welt and Katt
The greateft
northern part,
fhores of the A
Canadian lakes
{quare acres ha
with water bein;
acres.
_ ORIGINAL Pd
and flourifhing ¢
denominations a
manners {hall be
the Englith colo
defcendants of tl
able fettlements
by Ralegh, the
the difcoveries of
the northern lake
clofed by the Fre
HISTORICAE }
United States mu
together with th
inthe independen
1. The Stamp
to raife a fupply
firm oppofition of
of amore oblique
were taken off, ex
2. In 1773 an
by the Ae cds
3. The-tea fen
was thrown into tk
March 1774, and
Bay.
4. Depiities me
firt Congrefs.
5. Other acts o!
and the civil war |
and American mil
rather Breed’s Hi
6. Onthe 4th
folemn declaration
7 On the zoth
with the United S
8. The treaty o
dence of the Unite
of feven years,
9. The conttitu
a new plan was fuk
tion. On the 30th
UNITED STATES.
545
Canada, is continued along the river St. Lawrence to lat. 45°, not far to
the fouth of Montreal, when it paffes due eaft, and follows a chain of
mountains N. E. and afterwards diverges S. E. to the river St. Croix,
which falls into the bay of Fundi. On the foutha line, merely arbitrary,
about lat. 31°, divides the United States from the Spanifh dominions of
Welt and aft Florida,
The greateft extent of the United Territory is from eaft to weft, in the
northern part, where it exceeds 1300 B. miles; and the line along the
fhores of the Atlantic nearly correfponds; but the breadth from the
Canadian lakes to the fouthern limit, is about 1000 B. miles. The
{quare acres have been computed at 640 millions; and thofe covered
with water being fuppofed 51 millions, there will remain 589 millions of
acreSe a
_ ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] The original population of this extenfive
and flourifhing country conlifted of feveral wild and rude tribes, whofe
denominations and memory have almoft perifhed, but fome idea of their
manners fhall be given in defcribing the native nations. The progrefs of
the Englifh colonies has been already detailed ; and there are numerous
defcendants of the Germans, Dutch, and Swedes, who formed
confider«
able fettlements in this region. After the firft ineffe€tual colony planted
by Ralegh, the moft important’events in the progreflive geography were
the difcoveries of the noble bays of the Chefapeak and Delawar, while
the northern lakes, and many other grand features of nature, were dif-
clofed by the French fettlers in Canada.
HisTorIcAE EPocHs.] Among the chief hiftorical epochs of the
United States muft be claffed their refpeCtive origins, as above explained ;
together with the leading occurrences in that conteft which terminated
inthe independence of the United States.
1. The Stamp A&, pafled in 1765, is confidered as the firft attempt
to raife a fupply of Britifh revenue from North America; but by the
firm oppofition of the colonies it was repealed in 1766. Similar
attempts
of amore oblique nature were alike unfuccefsful ; and in 1770 the duties
were taken off, except threepence a pound on tea.
2. In 1773 an armed fchooner ftationed off Rhode Ifland was burnt
by the Americans, the firft a&t of open outrage.
3. The-tea fent by the Eaft India Company to the port of Bofton
was thrown into the fea. ‘This led to what is called the Bofton Port Bill,
March 1774, and the act for altering the government of Maffachufetts
Ba
ys ;
4. Depitties met at Philadelphia, 26th O&tober 1774, conftituting the ,
firlt Congrefs.
5. Other aéts of the Britifh. parliament, 1775, inflamed the difcontents,
and the civil war commenced with a fkirmifh between the Britifh troops
and American militia at Lexington. The battle of Bunker's
rather Breed’s Hill, was fought on the 17th June, 1775.
Hill, or
6. Onthe 4th of July 1776, the American congre{s publifhed their
folemn declaration of independence.
7» On the 30th January 1778, the king of France concluded a treaty
with the United States.
8. The treaty of peace, 30th November 1782, by which the
dence of the United States was folemnly acknowledged, after a
of feven years,
indepen-
ftruggle
g. The conttitution of the United States having been found imperfect,
a new plan was fubmitted to the feveral ftates and received their approba-
tion, On the 3oth of April 1789s George Wafhington was ina
n
ugurated
prefident
Ser
Ea
546 UNITED. STATES.
prefident of the United States, The refignation and death of that illuf.
trious man, and the fhort conteft with the venal dire&tory af France, are
incidents which are frefh in the memory of every reader.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Rekigion. — Government. — Laws. — Population. — Army. — Navy, —
_ Revenue—— Political Tndieieues and Relations. Be
HE religion of the United States of America is the
RExicion. J T safopyr! fyftem of Chriftianity ; but every fed is.
liberally treated with univerfal toleration, or rather equal independence,
It would be infinite to enumerate the various denominations, tenets, and
new dottrines, which prevail in the feveral ftates ; but from the follow.
ing account of thofe in Maffachufetts and Pennfylvania, fome judgment.
may be formed of the whole. Mr. Morfe enumerates the fects in Mafla.
whufetts in the following order :
res Number of” Suppofed numb
Denominations. Compe ones jon gland
Congregationalifts *, ° 400 . 277,600
Baptifts, ° . 84 - 58,296
Epifcopalians, ° ° 16 - 11,104
Friends, or Quakers, - 10 . 6,940
Prefbyterians, - . 4 - 24776
Univerfalitts, ° ° 2 : 1,388
Roman Catholics, - ¥ ° 694
; iy 358,798
In Philadelphia the places of public worfhip are thus numbered :
The Friends, or Quakers, g The Swedifh Lutherans, +
The Prefbyterians and Seceders, 6 The Moravians, - 1
The Epifcopalians, - 3 The Baptifts, t
The German Lutherans, 2 The Univerfal Baptifts, 1
The German Calvinifts, -y ‘ The Methodiits, . 1
The Catholics, - 4 The Jews, *. 1
Government.) The government of the United States is vefted, by
the conttitution of 1789, in a prefident and two councils. The prefident
is chofen for the terny of four years.—The fenate or fuperior council cone
fifts of two fenators from each itate, chofen every fix years. The houfe
of reprefentatives iselected every fecond year, and is not to contain more
than two hundred members, each reprefenting, according to the progrefs
of the population, from 33,000 to 50,000 inhabitants. The legiflative
wer is vefted in the two councils: while the executive is lodged with
the prefident ; ‘and a vice-prefident is alfo chofen to fupply his place, on
any emergency. The prefident commands the army and navy, and may
pardon offences, except in cafe of impeachment: he makes treaties with
* Thefe are moderate Independents, who fuppofe that each congregation poffeffes com-
plete ecclefiaftic power, but profels frist amity with other congregations,
ay the
the confent of
. appointment o
vent any difting
munity, fuch z
acts of indepe
whole. The ji
inferior courts
fices during the
government, c
tives, anntall
‘awe h
land, handed do
ordinances and ¢
the general cond
vance, might af
PoPuLATION
mally eftimated,
exclufive of the
It is inferred tha
cafe the populat
of flaves in 179¢
as many emanci
tenanced *,
Army) A
ing public order,
for the defence o
patible with the r
computed from
"Yet his mode of
more agreeable tx
150,000, anumb
and to fet foreigr
Navy.] The
though a few thi;
France. In the «
time fpirit of the
fleet will rival an
_ Revenue.) 7
ties on importa an
twelve millions of
debt is {uppofed |
the Indians, whic
one million of do
fpirit or decifion,
ve been termina
POLITICAL IMP
States will depend
the gorerament is
neral profperity,
regret and aftonifh
UNITED STATES. sag
the confent of two-thirds of the fenators, who are alfo to advife in the
, appointment of embaffadors. Particular regulations are formed to pres
yent any diftin& ftate’ from sate offices which belong to the come
munity, fuch as forming treaties, ifluing letters of marque, and the like
acts of independent fovereignty,. which might endanger the ufion of the
whole. The judicial power is lodged in one {upreme court, and in fuch
inferior courts as the congrefs may ordain, the judges holding their of-
fices during their good behaviour. Each province has alfo its peculiar
government, cunfiiting commonly of a fenate and houfe of reprefenta-
tives, annually chofen. ;
aaah he laws fcem in general to correfpond with thofe of Eng.
land, handed down by their anceftors. Different ftates have alfo particular
ordinances and cuftoms, which are permitted when they do not difturb
the general concord. But a code of laws, to be held.in univerfal obfer-
vance, might afford a fair object of ambition.
PoPpuLaTion.] The population of thefe extenfive territories was for-
mally eftimated, by order of congrefe, in 1790, and found to be 3,930,000,
exclufive of the inhabitants N.W. of the Ohio, fuppofed to be 20,000.
It is inferred that the population is doubled: every twenty years, in which
cafe the population may now amount to about fix millions. The number
of flaves in 1790 was 697,647, and has probably been little increafed,
28 many emancipations have taken place, and the flave trade is difcovae
tenanced *,
Army ) A {mall military force is maintained for the fake of fupport.
ing public order, and upwards of five thoufand were raifed for three years,
for the defence of the frontiers. Buta ftanding army is deemed incom-
patible with the republican government ; and the ftrength of the flies is
computed from the. militia, which is ftated by Mr. Morfe at 709,01.
‘Yet his mode of reafoning is vague and inconclufives and it would feem
more agreeable to the ufual rules to eftimate the utmoft efleCtive force at
150,000, a number fufficiently formidable to fubdue the whole continent,
and'to fet foreign invafion at defiance. -
Neves] The navy of the United States is ftill of lefs confequence,
though a few fhips were equipped during the recent fhort difpute with
France. In-the courfe of a century or two, it is probable that the mari-
time {pirit of their progenitors will be difplayed, and that the American
fleet will rival any in Europe,
Revenue. ] The revenue of the United States is derived from the du- -
ties on imports and tonnage, and fome {mall taxes. This revenue is about
twelve miflione of dollars +, the expenditure about fe~en. . The national
debt is f{uppofed to amount to fixty millions of dolls. The war with
the Indians, which terminated in 1795, is faid to have coft the States
one million of dollars yearly ; and was certainly condudted with little
fpirit or decifion, while in found policy, and at lefs expenfe, it might
have been terminated at one effort. :
POLITICAL IMPORTANCE. ] The politica! importance of the United
States will depend, in a t meafure, upon the individual chara&er, as
Moe gonerament is not fufficiently ftrong to ufe coercion even for the ge-
neral profperity. The moit impartial travellers have been imprefled with
regret and aftonifhment at the {pirit of felfifhnefs and avarice, which too
* By the return of the pupulation of the United States, printed at Wathington 1802,
@vo. the total was 5,172,312, the flaves being included, whofe number was 67 5,626.
+t The dollar is equal to 4s, 6d, fterling, Imlay, 189, eftimates the American debt at
fateen millions fterling ; and the funds bore an intereft of about fix per cent.
Naz ' univerfally
548 _ UNITED STATES.
univerfally prevails, and which crufhes or impedes every great or noble
exertion. It is however to be hoped and expected that this charaGter
will not become indelible; but that after the fathers have laid up a fuf.
ficient ftock of wealth, their pofterity will divert their attention to more
fublime purfuits. ‘The war with the Indians, which ought to have im.
preffed all America with a deep fenfe of the power of the States, appears
to have been pallied by individual avarice, and a complete negligence of
national reputation. ‘The equipment of a few frigates againft France was
alfo a mighty effort ; and the fum allotted for fix frigates {carcely fupplied
three. The moit candid obferver, and even the warmeft admirer of the
new republic, muft allow with regret that its political importance can
only be weighed by pofterity.
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.
Manners and Cuftoms.— Language. — Literature. — Univerfities. — Citi:s.—
Edifices.— Roads.—Inland Navigation. — Manufacures and Commerce.
HE manners and cuftoms of the in.
habitants of the United States may
be conceived to differ little from thofe of their Britifh anceftors, except in
a few local particularities. ‘Travellers have however obferved, even in
Philadelphia, a want of urbanity, and a fpirit of coldnefs and referve,
which renders fociety melancholy. 1n general the common people fhew
their independent fpirit by furlinefs of behaviour, and a contempt of that
intercourfe of trifling civilities, which render life amiable. —Various reli.
gious doétrines, fome of them of very recent invention, feem to confpire
with the love of money, to throw an additional gloom over the clinraer
The gay feftivals of the ancient republicans, and the cheerful and happy
manners of the Swifs, feem touaty unknown ; and in general there is
little tafte for thofe amufements which are connected with the arts and
fciences, In fome provinces gaming is faid to be too prevalent; but the
deepeft game confifts in felling unfettled lands at advanced prices; a
fpecies of ftock-jobbing which, like a Miffiffippi fcheme, ftimulates the
avarice of many.
Lanovaen.) On the termination of the war with England, the ran-
cour of a few propofed the adoption of a new language 3 and a wit re
commended the Hebrew. The Englith however remains; and is generally
fpoken with great purity, and free from provincial barbarifms. Yet the
Kinaclent writers fometimes adopt expreffions:and idioms unknown to
the Britith claffics. ,
Luspearyse.| The books publifhed in Britifh America were chiefly
of a religious kind. But before the emancipation, Franklin had become
a dift*nguifhed name in letters; and many authors of confiderable merit
have fince arifen in the United States. Literary academies publith their
tranfaGtions ; while magazines and newfpapers contribute to the popular
diffufion of ufeful knowledge. Education feems alfo to attraét more and
more attention, and to be conducted in numerous feminaries with the mot
laudable care. In the northern provinces, called New England, ichools
are e(tablithed » almoft every townthip. Even the Catholics have a col-
he Maryland,
mivensitize.) In New York acollege was founded, by an ad 2
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. ]
the Britifh parl
is faid to be
Hall was found
eflimated at eig
College, arofe a
a fociety for p
many grammar {
1717, and rebui
fylvania there ar
lofophical Socie
and 1786 two
fylvania was fo
united with the d
this province the
Harward Unive
in 1638, and is
America. T'he
rovinces boatt
hefe detached
of knowledge, t
Dartmouth Collé
favages ; but has
northern province
Nor are the fing
of arts was found
Cities.) Wit
United States ma
Baltimore, Char
precedes Philadel
fore proceeding tc
deferibe that of
States ;
“'The city of V
the ftates o Virg
etablithed as the
city, which is now
and the eaftern b
miles up each, an
conveniences falub
limits of the city ¢
ging wells, water «
never failing {trean
colleéted for the wu:
“ The eafteen bi
bours in America,
oe miles above it:
adjoining the city,
mak, although on
above the junétion
mer harbour; as an
nel pple to, an
“ The grand ave
places, are from 1 !
UNITED STATES. 549
the Britith parliament 1754, which is now called Columbia College, and
is faid to be frequented by more than one hundred ftudents. Naffau
Hall was founded at Prince Town, in New Jerfey, the ftudents being
eflimated at eighty. In 1782 another foundation, called Wafhington
College, arofe at Cheftertown in Maryland. Even in Tennaflee there is
a fociety for promoting ufeful knowledge, befides an academy, with
many grammar {chools. Yale college in Conneéticut, was founded in
i717, and rebuilt in 1750; maintaining about 130 ftudents*. In Penn-
fylvania there are many literary focieties, particularly the American Phi-
lofophical Society, formed in 1769; and which has publifhed in 1771
and 1786 two volumes of their tranfaétions, The Univerfity of Penn-
fylvania was founded at Philadelphia during the war; and, being fince
united with the college, has become a refpeétable feat of learning. In
this province there are alfo Dickenfon College and Franklin College.
Harward Univerfity, in the province of Maffachufetts, was founded
in 1638, and is generally ed a ab as the chief foundation in North
America. The univerfity of Georgia is at Louifville; and fome other
rovinces boaft of other colleges, or rather confiderable academies.
hefe detached, inftitutions feem better calculated for the promotion
of knowledge, than one or two great univerfities. In New Hamphhire,
Dartmouth College was founded in 1769, for the inftruction of the
favages ; but has anes become an ample endowment for the youth of the
northern provinces, ;
Nor are the fine arts neglected, for in the winter of 1823, an academy
of arts was founded at New York.
Cities.] With regard to fize and confequence, the cities of the
United States may be thus arranged; Philadelphia, New York, Bofton,
Baltimore, Charleflown ; but in relation to commerce New York
precedes Philadelphia, and Charleitown ranks above Baltimore. Be-
fore proceeding to a brief account of thefe cities, it will be proper to
defcribe that of Wafhington, the intended metropolis of the United
States :
“The city of Wafhington, in the territory of Columbia, was ceded by
the ftates of Virginia and Maryland to the United States, and by them
eftablifhed as the feat of their government, after the year 1800. This
city, which is now building, ftands at the junétion of the rivers Patomak
and the eaftern branches, latitude 38° 53! north, extending nearly four
miles up each, and ‘including a tract of territory exceeded, in point of
conveniences falubrity, and beauty, by none in America, Within the
limits of the city are a great number of excellent fprings; and by dig-
ging wells, water of the beft quality may readily be had. Befides, the
never failing itreams that now run through that territory may alfo be
collected for the ufe of the city.
“ The eafteen branch is one of the fafelt and moft commodious har.
bours in America, being fufficiently deep fur the largeft thips for about
four miles above its mouth, while the channel lies clofe along the bank
ainone the city, and affords a large and convenient harbour. The Pato-
mak, although only navigable for {inall craft, (excepting about half a mile
above the junction of the rivers,) will neverthelefs afford a capacious {ums
mer harbour; as an immenfe number of fhips may ride in the great chans
nel oppofite to, and below, the city, ;
“The grand avenues, and fuch ftreets as lead immediately to public
places, are from 130 to 160 fect wide, and may be conveniently divided
* Morfe, o50, :
Nn3 into
550 UNITED STATES.
into foot ways, a walk planted with trees on each fide, and a paved way
for carriages. ‘The other ftreets are from go to 110 feet wide *.”
The banks of the Patomak prefent inexhauftible quarries of excellent
free-ftone, harder than that of Portland; and at no great diftance
vb found flate, paving-ftone, and lime-ftone, and it is faid excellent
coal.
The city of Philadelphia is fuppofed to contain about 50,000 inhabi.
tants, and was detigned by William Penn, the firft proprietor and founder
of the colony called Pennfylvania, in 1683. The form is an oblon
{quare, extending about two miles eaft and weft between the rivers Dela.
war and Schuylkill, or rather on the weftern bank of the former river,
This city is neatly conftruéted, the chief ftreets being ftraight avenues
100 feet in breadth, paved with pebbles, and the foot-path with brick,
The charter of incorporation, granted by Penn in 1701, was fingularly
aviftocratic, being cgpied from that of Briftol in England; but the
eneral aflembly of the province, in 1789, formed a liberal plan; and
the government of the citys the prifons, &c. may now be regarded as
f{urpaffing any in the world. There are- many humane inftitutions, and
a large public library. ‘The amidble and tolerant character of the Qua.
kers, differed widely from that of the fanatic fettlers in New England:
at prefent they do not exceed one-fourth part of the inhabitants; and
their averfion to the elegancies and luxuries of life is overcome by the
wifhes of the majority. Gay equipages are not rare in the ftreets of
Philadelphia, and the theatre begins to be frequented.
New York, the capital of the province of the fame name, is fituated on
@ promontory at the mouth of Hudfon river, a noble and piturefque
ftream. The number of inhabitants in 1790 was 33,131, this city bein
about two miles in length and four in circumference. It was greatly in.
jured during the war, but has fince been enlarged and improved. ‘The
chief editice is the Federal Hall, a neat building of Grecian architeGure,
in which Wafhington was inflalled prefident of the United States. In
commerce, New York 18 confidered as the chief city in North America,
the harbour admitting fhips of any burthen, It is alfo the. gayeft city,
and is thought to exceed Charleftown in South Carolina. Tn public
inititutions for the promotion of education, the arts, fciences, &c. it
however appears, by Mr. Morfe’s account, to be deficient,
Boiton was formerly regarded as the capital of the province of Maffae
chufetts, and of all thefe northern provinces called New England. Its
trade has however fince declined, though it is {till far from inconfider.
able. This city is f{uppofed to contain about 20,000 inhabitants. The
harbour on a large bay is excellent, and capacious enough to receive
five hundred thips at anchor; with a narrow entrance commanded by a
caftle. There is a pier about 600 yards in nn and the harbour is
interferfed with about forty iflands, which afford excellent. grain and
fturage. This city alfo fuffered confiderably by the war, but has
n improved, and the public buildings are, in that part of the world,
deemed elegant. Bofton does not exceed two miles in length, being of
a circular form; and on the weft is the mall or public walk, planted
with rows of trees. On the fame fide is Beacon hill, on which a monu-
ment has been ere‘ted, commemorating fome of the maft important
events of the war. The fanatical {pirit of this city feems gradually to
Subfide ; and it is even already ranked by fome among the moft plealing
and fociable in the United States.
e Morfe, 468,
3a Baltimore
Baltimore i
which may rat!
‘and has rapid}
low, but it has
aumber of inhd
Charleftown
and Cooper riv
cious eftuary.
low, being refi
inhabitants, of
and {ocial mann
Such are the
improper to ad
fituation or oth
New On.ea
New Orleans de
tion is fuch as tq
navigation of th
inland fettlemen
the rn of
fhips being 140
founded Be the
regency of the I
three principal a
Chartres. Tow
fo dreadful a con
mained. It has
5400 houfes and
works are bad, a
for commerece ai
mouth of the Mi
and the Britith,
portant fettlemeni
roduce of afl th
fouri, Miffifippi,
Of Virginia, t
of the governmen
it is partly fitu
It ftands on the 1
miles, but the in
great length, mo
timber piers filled
the river, -
Annapolis, in ]
though Baltimor
wealthieft town of
the mouth of the
inconfiderable,
but the houfes ar
in the centre, wh
to the whole town
Savannah was
more than 800 inh:
two houfes in 19!
ment is Louifvil
UNITED STATES. _ 551
Baltimore in Maryland ftands on the north fide of the river Patapfco,
which may rather be regarded as a creek of the great bay of Chefapeak,
and has rapidly rifen to its prefent confequence. The fituation is rather
low, but it has been rendered by art tolerably falubrious. In 1790 the
number of inhabitants was 13,503. |
Charleftown, in Sout! Carolina, is fituated at the confluence of A fhley
and Cooper rivers, wh'ch 2-e large and navigable, and open into a capa-
cious eftuary. The fituation is efteemed remarkably healthy, though
low, being refrefhed by the fea breezes. In 1791 there were 16,359
inhabitants, of whom 7684 were flaves. ‘This city is.célebrated for.ealy
and focial manners,
Such are the principal cities of the United States ; ‘but it may not be
improper to add fome account of a few others, interefting from their
fituation or other circumftances.
New Orzeans.]} Since the acquifition of Louifiana, the city of
New Orleans deferves great attention in every point of view. Its fituae
tion is fuch as to command, in a great degree, the wide and important
navigation of the river Miffiffippi, fo effential to the profperity of the
inland fettlements. In the year r8o02, not lefs than 268 veflels entered
the mouth of Miffiffippi, of which eighteen were armed ; the American
hips being 170, and the Spanifh 98. The city of New Orleans was
founded in the time of the Miflifippi {cheme, abouc 1720, under the
regency of the Duke of Orleans. The plan is regularly difpofed, the
three principal and parallel ftreets being thofe of Orleans, Bourbon, and
Chartres. ‘Towards+the river there is a noble quay. In the year 1788
fo dreadful a conflagration ‘happened, that of 1100 houfes not 200 Fe.
mained, It has fince been completely rebuilt, and now contains about
5400 houfes and 10,000 inhabitants. In 1793 it was fortified, but the
works are bad, and could offer but a feeble refiftance. The advanta
for commerece are incalculable. Though fituated 105 miles above the
mouth of the Mifliffippi, a week’s fail will convey its trade to Mexico,
and the Britifh, French, and Spanifh Weft Indies. ‘ Nor can this im-
portant fettlement fail to became the grand mart and receptacle for the
roduce of ail the prodigious extent of a valuable country on the Mif.
fouri, Mififippi, and Ghia. ;
Of Virginia, the chief port is Norfolk, but Richmond ‘is the feat
of the government, containing about 500 houfes dnd 4000 inhabitants.
It is partly fituated on a hill, which alfo prefents the ftate houfe.
It ftands on the river James, near the Rapids, which extend for feven
miles, but the inconveniences are remedied by a canal. A bridge of
great length, more than 2000 feet, partly raifed on ‘boats, partly on
regi piers filled with ftone, paffes to Manchelter, on the other fide of
the river. -
Annapolis, in Maryland, is {till regarded as the capital of that ftate,
though Baltimore be a more contiderable city. Armapolis is the
wealthieft town of its fize in the United States. Though fituated at
the'mouth of the river Severn, on a healthy f{pot, its commerce is now
inconfiderable. The number of inhabitants does not exceed 2000,
but the houfes are generally large and elegant. The ftate houfe ftands
in the centre, whence the ftreets diverge fo as to impart a circular form
to the whole town.
Savannah was fdrmerly the capital of Georgia, bu: contained litele
more than 800 inhabitants. It was fucceeded by Augufta, which from
two houfes in 1780, rofe to 200 in 1787. The new feat of governe
ment is Louifville, on the bank of the river Ogefhe, about 70 miles
Nn4 from
552 UNITED STATES.
from its mouth. The records and legiflature were transferred thither
in 1795.
The new towns in the interior may defervedly excite curiofity. Pittf.
burg, which ftands at the junétion of the rivers Allegany and Monon.
gala, commands the navigation of the noble river Ohio, and is already
a town of confiderable trade; the houfes, which are built of brick,
amounting to more than 400. Within ten years, this town has increafed
ten-fold, and is now a receptacle of the trade between Philadelphia, Bal.
timore, and the weftern ftates. Some veflels with three mafts, carryin
about 250 tons, have here been conftructed, and pafs by the Ohio and
Miffiffippi to the Weft Indies.
Marietta did not exift 15 years ago, but now contains 200 houfes,
and is the chief: eftablifhment on the Ohio. In the fame f{tate, recently
admitted into the union under the name of the ftate Ohio, is the town
of Gallipoli, which contains about a hundred houfes, the inhabitants
being moftly French.
Knoxville is the chief town in Tennaffee, and contains about 209
houfes. Lexington, the chief town in Kentucky, countains about 3009
inhabitants. In 1786 the inhabitants were only computed at goo.
Epiricrs.] The chief edifices are commonly the halls in which the
ftates of each province affémble. The Capitol, and the houfe of the pre.
fident, in the new metropolis, defigned, it is believed, a3 well as the pian
of the, siEY by L’Enfant, are confidered as edifices of the moft {plendid
romife.
INLAND NAVIGATION. ] Little occafion has hitherto arifen for opening
any canals for inland navigation, as the numerous great rivers have been
found fufficient for the purpofes of intercourfe, No country in the world
can boaft of fuperior means of inland commerce by the great river Miffouri,
and iaany other navigable ftreams, not to mention lakes of prodigious ex.
tent. A canal, it is believed, isnow opened between the rivers Schuylkill
and Sufquehana, and others are projected. The roads alfo begin to be
Page 9 and feveral bridges have been erected, fome of which, in timber,
' are of confiderable extent.
Manuractures. ] The manufactures of the United States may moilly
be confidered as ftill in their infancy, as they were accuftomed to be fup-
plied by Great Britain; and though the bond of authority be broken, the
commercial connexions remain. ‘The chief manufaétures are tanned lea-
ther, and dreffed fkins ; various common works in iron and in wood; {hips,
for which Bofton was celebrated ; with feveral articles of machinery and
hufbandry. Cables, failcloth, cordage, twine, packthread, bricks, tiles,
and pottery, paper of all kinds, hats, fugars, fnuff, gunpowder, are alfo
American manufactures; with fome tenis in copper, brafs, and tin;
clocks, and mathematical machines, and carriages of all defcriptions. ‘The
domeftic manufactures, in coarfe cloths, ferges, flannels, cotton, and linen
oods of feveral forts not only fuffice for the families, but are fometimes
fold, and even exported ; and in mott diftridts a great part of the drefs is
the product of domettic induftry, Good wines have been made by French
fettlers on the Ohio from various wild grapes, which grow {pontaneoully
in thefe regions. ‘The maple fugar is prepared in the northern and mid-
dle flates, and is deemed by many equal to that from the cane. The
recent commotions in Europe have probably driven many able manufac:
turers to America, where machinery ig particularly alvabia,'as the price
of labour is exorbitant, :
Commencs.] The chief commerce of the United States is ftill cen-
tered in Britith ports, though France had a confiderable thare ; and one
lo trade
' tonnage, on the 3
trade be alfo carri
That with the Ea
1792 amounted to
ticles being pot and
whale oil and wha
laffes, tar, turpen
planks, boards, a
mated at 297,468
50,000 feamen. -
Upon the termi
ports were dimini
year previous to
dollars, the domeft
reign at 13,594,07
ports for the yea
90971780 Pa hn
from New York,
thofe to Great Brit
were about 1 5:00
only 5,000,000. Ff
ending on the rft o
93,020,513 dollars
Spain 13,000,000,
The bank of P}
beeen fuccefsful : it
capital ftock being
oye in gold, wit
dollars of two pou
} one quarter, the g
dollar, with the hal:
worth nearly fixpenc
in copper is equal t
the Englith balfoen
farthing.
The total amou
191,092 Hy nal
43,597 eagles, half
tale Act The ta
Climate and Seafons. =
— Lakes. — Moun
— Mineral Waters.
CuiMATE. ] hee
tions from heat to c
welt is violently cold
In the plains on the «
moderate ; and in fon
UNITED STATES, s 553
trade be alfo carried on with Spain, Portugal, Holland, and the Baltic.
That with the Eaft Indies and Africa is inconfiderable. The exports in
1792 amounted to more than twenty-one millions of dollars ; the chief ar-
ticles being pot and pearl afhes, cotton, coffee, flax, dried and pickled fifh,
whale oil and whale bone, wheat, Indian corn, indigo, fheep, hogs, moe
laffes, tar, turpentine, American rum, tobacco, furs, ftaves, fhingles,
planks, boards, and timber in general. T'he tonnage was in 1789 efti-
mated at 297,468, and in 1798 at 800,000 tons, navigated by nearly
50,000 feamen, -
Upon the termination of the unhappy war in Europe, 1802, the ex-
ports were diminifhed by the lofs of the carrying trace ; yet during the
year previous to the firft of October 1803, amounted to 55,800,033
dollars, the domeftic articles being eftimated at 42,205,961, and the fo-
reign at 13,594,072. From Mr, Gallatin’s report it appears that the
| tonnage, on the 31ft of December 1802, was 864,500 tons. ‘The ex-
ports for the year prior to the ift of Oétober 1800, amounted to
70,971,780 dollars; the higheft from any particular flate being thofe
from New York, which amounted to 14,045,079. Of thefe exports,
thofe to Great Britain were valued at 27,310,289 dollars ; thofe to Spain *
were about 15,000,000; to the Hanfe Towns 8,000,0003 to France
only 5,000,000. For the fucceeding year, during the European war,
ending on the rft of OGober 1801, the exports were to the amount of
93,020,513 dollars; of which Great Britain received about 42,000,000,
Spain 13,000,000, France 11,000,000.
The bank of Philadelphia was founded in 1787; and feems to have
beeen fuccefsful: it is alfo called the bank of the United States, the
capital ftock being ten millions of dollars. ‘The coinage confiits of
eagles in gold, with a half and quarter, the eagle being valued at ten
tess or two pounds five fhiilings tterling, thus exceeding by about
} one quarter, the golden mohur ot Hinftoitan. In iilver, betides the
dollar, with the half and quarter, there are difmes or tenths of a dullar,
worth nearly fixpence Englifh, and half difmes or twentieths. The cent
in copper is equal to the hundredth part of a dollar, or little more than
m . nglith salipenne-s while the half cent nearly correfponds with the
arthing.
The’ total amount of the coinage, 1804, was as follows; filver
191,092 pieces, namely dollars, half and quarter, and difmes; gold
43597 eagles, half eagles and quarters; copper 1,812,159 cents and
half cents, ‘The total value being 371,827 dollars.
ARPT MA ton ah
‘ cs ce ee Sa at ac = ~ ~ ~~ Oi ae — =
2 .
LIL LEI EL TENN A AO Nr NE ntant tate aiat mst ett
ene aaa Meer
——— i a I
CHAPTER IV.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
Climate and Seafons.— Face of the Country. — Soil and Agriculture. Rivers.
— Lakes. — Mountains. — Scvamps.- - Botany. — Zoology.— Mineralogy.
— Mineral Waters. — Natural Curio/ities.
HE climate of the United Territories, as alread
Cumaze.] mentioned, is chiefly remarkable for fudden tranthe
tions from heat to cold, and the conttary. ‘The wind from the northe
welt is violently cold, as it pafles a wide expanie of the frozen continent.
In the plains on the eaft of the Apalachian chain the fummer heats are im-
moderate ; and in fome places even ice will not preferve poultry or fith from
putrefaction.
554 UNITED STATES.
utrefa&tion. Towards the mountains the climate is falutary, even in the
outhern ftates. In the northern ftates the winter is longer and more fe.
vere than in England, but the fummer heat more intenfe. A N.E, wind
commonly attends rain, while on the weft fide of the Apalachian moun.
tains a S. W. has that effe&. In Georgia the winter is very mild, fnow
being feldom feen, and the eaft»wind is there the warmeft.
This exceffive heat of the plains mutt be regarded as one caufe of that
fatal peftilential malady called the yellow fever, which firft' appeared at
Philadelphia in 1793, and has fince too frequently repeated ita ravages in
various cities of the commonwealth.
Seasons. ] The feafons in the United States generally correfpond with
thofe in Europe, but not with the equality to be expected on a continent;
as, even during the fummer heats, fingle days will oecur which require the
warmth of a fire. The latitude of Labrador correfponds with that of
Stockholm, and that of Canada with France; but what a wide difference
in the temperature ! Even the eltuary of the Delawar is generally frozey
for fix weeks every winter. Nor does the weftern coaft of North Ame.
rica feem warmer than the eaftern. The numerous forefts, and wide ex.
pantes of frefh water, perhaps contribute te this comparative coldnefs of
the climate, which may gradually yield te the progrefs of population and
induftry. ,
Face OF THE CoUNTRY. ] The face of thefe extenfive territories is not
fo minutely diverfified as might have been expected, the features of nature
being here on a larger and more uniform fcale than in Europe. Nor are
there any fcenes of claffical or hiftorical reminifcence, which tranfport the
mind to remote centuries, and impart a crowd of relative ideas. The
abundance of timber, and the diverfity of the foliage, contribute greatly to
enrich the landfcape ; but it is here reputed a weed and the planter f{eldom
{pares trees near his habitation, as the roots having had no great room to
{pread or penetrate, they would be dangerous during a violent wind. The
landfcape ts lefs ennobled by lofty mountains than by rivers of great magni-
tude. ‘The northern provinces called New England are generally hilly,
as they tpproach the {kirts of the Apalachian chain, which has, by ne
unfit fimilitude, been called the fpine of the United Territory. ‘The vales
in thefe northern regions are thickly cloathed with wood, and often per-
waded by contidereble rivers ; and many romantic cafcades are formed by
rivulets falling from the rocks, while towards the fhore the land is level
- and fandy. a Virginia, a central ftate, the Blue Mountains, ‘and other
- ridges of the Apalachian, add great charms and variety to the profpet,
which is farther enlivened by many beautiful plants and birds, particularly
the humming bird, fucking the honey of various flowers, and ae
lancing in the fun its indefcribable hues of green, purple, and gol
Frere a plain from 550 to 200 miles in breadth, reaching from the moun-
tains to the fea, is ftudded with the villas of rich proprietors, the ancient
hofpitable country gentlemen of the United States. Similar levels ape
pear in the Carolinas and Georgia. Beyond the Apalachian ridges ex.
tends another rich plain of amazing fize, pervaded by the muddy waves
of the Miffiffippi, which does not appear to be table land, but on nearly
the fame level with the eaftern plain. In Kentucky the furface is agree.
ably waved with gentle {wells, repofing on a vat bed of limeftone ; anda
traét of about twenty miles along the Ohio is broken into {mall hills ang
mon] The foi, though of defi generally fertile
Soin.] The foil, though of various defcriptions, is y ’
often, J the eaft of the Blue Mountains, a rich brown loamy earth,
fometimes a yellowith clay, which becomes more and more fandy _
the fea. Sor
falt meadows
are found to
the A palachiz
fome {pots ar¢
fixty bufhels
monly a bed a
roductive,
- AGRICULT
are eager to a
prefident Wa
that at leaft t
are employed
be regarded as
ficient opulend
Agriculture p
and fuch is its
creafe the expo
150,000 barre]
the numerous
peafe, and mai
vated and is fo
man fpelt, a
feveral province
The culture of
farms, feems as
,arefown, Th
as are feveral k
andit is almoft
Virginia, whicl
ture and manne
objects 5 and cy
fates. The ex
are greatly cult:
there are alfo ex
Rivers.) T
defcribed in the
be here mention
longing to the U
fifhip pi, befidesth
oe from eaft
which is the Ili
five and fertile
iiippi are the U
noble ftream of |
Miami, and the
Kentucky, the C
naflee ; while th
ams which joi
: Amon the ny
tie, may be men
the Kennebec, t
dikinguifhed itre
UNITED STATES. 558
the fea. Sometimes there are confiderable marfhes, and what are called
id {alt meadows, and {pots called barrens, which, even in the original forefts,
‘ind are found to be bare of trees for a confiderable fpace*. On the welt of
nee the Apalachian chain the foil is alfo generally excellent ; and in Kentucky
now fome {pots are deemed toe rich for wheat, but the produ& may amount to
fixty bufhels an acre: and about fix feet below the furface there is com-
that ag monly ts bed of limeftone. The vales in the northern ftates are alfo very
roductive. ‘
ahs bi Acricutture.} In agriculture the Americans are well fkilled, and
are eager to adopt the advantages vf Englifhexperience. The late great
with refident Wafhington was himfelf an excellent farmer ; and it is computed
ents that at leaft three parts in four of the inhabitants of the United States
the are employed in agriculture. This free and vigorous yeomanry may well
t of be regarded as the chief glory of any ftate ; and commerce will import fufe -
ence ficient opulence to enable. them to promote every poflible improvement.
oven Agriculture particularly fourifhes in New England and Pennfylvania ;
\ me> and fuch is its progrefe, that the ftates are enabled, almoft yearly, to in-
e ex. creafe the exportation of grain and flour. In 1786 Pennfylvania exported
fs of 150,000 barrels of flour ; in 1789 no lefs than 369,618 barrels. Among
nand the numerous products are wheat, rye, barley, buck wheat, oats, beans,
peafe, and maize, the jaft a native grain. In Virginia fome rice is culti-
isnot vated and is found to fucceed well on the banks of the Ohio. The Gers
ature man fpelt, a valuable product, is alfo fown in Pennfylvanias; and in
or are feveral provinces hemp and flax are confiderable obje&ts of agriculture.
rt the The culture of turnips, and fome other vegetables common on Englifh
The farms, feeme as yet to draw little attention ; but many cultivated graffes
tly to ,arefown. ‘That invaluable plant the potatoe is a native of the country 5
eldom as are feveral kinds of melon and cu:umber. Hops are alfo cultivated :
om to andit is almoft unneceflary to add tobacco, a well known produ& of
The faa Virginia, which opulent province bears a confiderable refemblance in cul-
apni ture and manners to our Welt Indian fettlements. Orchards are favourite.
hilly, objets 5 and cyder is a common beverage in the northern and _niiddle
tates. The excellent Newtown apple grows near New York. Peaches
are greatly cultivated in Virginia, where the peach brandy is noted ; and
there are alfo excellent apricots and nectarines.
Rivers.) The chief rivers of the United States-have already been
defcribed in the brief general view of North America; but a few may
be here mentioned of a more confined courfe, and more particularly be.
longing to the United Territory. That great weflern boundary the Mif-
idipph befidesthe celebrated Ohio, pervading the centre of theUnited Ter.
ritory from eaft to weft, receives many other contiderable {treams, among
which is the Illini, or in the French mode Illinois, which waters exten-
five and fertile meadows. More northern ftreams flowing into the Mif-
ifippi are the Uifconfin, the Chipaway, and the river St. Croix. The
noble ftream of the Ohio receives from the north the Great and Little
Miami, and the Wabafh: from the fouth, the Great Kennaway, the
Kentucky, the Green River, and above all the Cumberland and the Ten.
naflee ; while the country on the weft of Georgia is watered by feveral
freams which join the gulf of Mexico.
Among the numerous rivers which flow on the eat, into the Atlan.
tic, may be mentioned the limitary ftream of St. Croix, the Penabfcot,
the Kennebec, the Saco, the Merimac, the Connecticut, a long and
dikinguifhed itream, which gives name to the province, but which yields
©@ Pine barrens produce pines ouly.
ELA TELIA EI all Rs SATIN ED:
Sate Tc
ee
556 - UNITED STATES.
in length and grandeur to the Hudfon river, which, rifing from feveral
Takes in the northern parts of New York, flows into the ocean near the
flourifhing city of that name. The river Delawar, which wathes Phila.
delphia, being joined by numerous ftreams, is more remarkable for its
width than for the Jength of its courfe. The Sufquehanna is diftin.
nifhed by both thefe attributes, and after a long and circuitous progrefg
ae the chief contributary ftream to the bay of Chefapeak; which
alfo receives the Patomak and the Fluvanna, or James’ River. The
Patomak is not only remarkable as the feat of the new capital, but for
its irruption through the Blue Ridge of the Apalachian mountains, be.
ing firft joined by the Shenandoa, a copfiderable river from the fouth,
Farther-to the fouth the chief rivers flow W. into the Ohio. But the
Black water and Staunton join the Roanok inlet: and Pamlico found
receives a river of the fame name. That of Cape Fear, the Pedece, the
Santee, the Savannah, and the Altamaha of Georgia, clofe the lift of
the chief rivers of the United States.
Laxes.] Befides the great lakes which form the northern boundary,
and which have been already mentioned in the general defcription of
North America, there are fome confiderable lakes in the northern parts of
the United Territory. Thofe on the weft have been little explored. ‘I'he
{mall lakes called Cedar, Little Winnipeg, and Leech, fupply the fources
of the Miffiffippi. On the eaft the moft important lake is that of Cham.
plain, rather refembling a wide river, which flows into that of St. Law.
rence, and fupplies an eafy communication with Canada. The Cham.
plain is the boundary between the ftates of New York and Vermont,
being in length about 75 g. miles, while the breadth feldom exceeds four
or five ; and it terminates in the bread river called Chambly or Richlieu,
which falls within the limits of Canada. Lake George, at the fouthern '
extremity of Champlain, approaches within a few miles of the Hudfon
river, fo that a canal might be opened at no great expence. Betides
many {mall lakes S. W. of the Champlain, there are feveral other lakes
in the fame direction, and alfo in the province of New York, as the
Oneida, the Cayuga, and Sennaka. mfliieg
Mowytaixs.] The chief mountains have been likewife defcribed in
the general view of North America. The White and Green mountains
in the northern provinces, and the Land’s Heights, which bounds the
diftri& of Main,’ may be regarded as elongations of the Apalachian
chain, to which alfo belong the Savage and Bald mountains, and the
Allegany, fo called from another name of the river Ohio, (fometimes ex.
tended to the whole Apalachian,) with many other local denominations,
the Blue mountains being the moft general term for the exterior ridge
towards the ocean *. '
Forests. ] Aboriginal forefts are fo numerous throughout the United
Territory, that none feem to be particularly diftinguifhed. There does
not appear‘to exift on the whole* continent of America, any of thofe
fandy deferts which are fo remarkable in Afia and Africa. T ere is, on
the contrary an exuberance of water, even in the moft torrid regions;
which might be added as a proof of the theory that this continent has
more recently emerged. Even the volcanoes in South America often
pour down torrents of water and mud, and no where occur the fandy
ruins of plains, after the fertile foil has been totally loft, or the rocky
fkeletons of ancient mountains. The large traét in the eaftern part of
* The component parts of the White Mountains feem to be flate, petrofilex, ati grey
quartz, See Morle, p. 299, os
Virginia
Virginia and
150,000 acres
onthe more mo!
of pines*. = T
is often thick b
other forefts i
Cane reeds, and
are taught to re
foreft, bears, we
are fo dry as ta
miry that a mz
through it; and
in at the depth
an article of tra
inthe neighbour:
marfhy fituation
Swamps. ] Gi
lake, called Ekz
tremity of the p
cumference, and
reprefented by tl
peculiar race, w
by them Daughteé
of an ancient tri
Borany.] T
or, in other words
fiffippi to the oce:
lakes to the gulf
are common to th
parts.
The moft gene
willow-leaved oak
fouthern ftates att:
{weet farinaceous |
black. Next to th
white or the hicco
fras laurel, more i
on the Canadian bx
warm banks of the
beauty. The fuga
fides of the hills in
quency in the more
liveet gum tree, thi
the taccamahacca,
luitable, without b
fandy traéts, both v
and ufeful family o}
nan fir, the comm«
aad the Weymoutl
* Weld, i. 179,
t On the N, E. of 4
fome other large fwam
t Such long and
fourteen fyllables to exp)
Geography,
UNITED STATES. $57
Virginia and North Carolina, called the Difmal Swamp, occupies about
10,000 acres ; but it is entirely covered with trees, juniper and cyprus
onthe more moift parts, and on the drier white and red oaks, and a variety
of pines*. Thefe trees attain.a prodigious fize ; and among them there
is often thick brufhwood, fo as to render the {wamp impervious, while
other forefts in North America are commonly free from underwood.
Cane reeds, and tall rich grafs, foon fatten cattle of the vicinity, which
are taught to return to the farms of their own accord. In this fwampy
foreft, bears, wolves, deer, and other wild animals abound. Some parts
are fo dry as to bear a horfe, while fome are overflowed, and others fo
miry that a man would fink up to the neck. A canal has been led
through it; and even in the dry parts water of the colour of brandy gufhed
inat the depth of three feet. In the northern part the timber fupplies
an article of trade, while in the fouthern, rice is found to profper ; and
inthe neighbourhood none of thefe difeafes are known which haunt other
marfhy fituations +. ;
Swamps. ] Georgia prefents a fingular marfh, or in the wet feafon a
lake, called Ekanfanoko, by others Ouaquafenogat, in the S. E. ex.
tremity of the province. This marfhy lake is about 300 miles in cir-
cumference, and contains feveral large and fertile ifles, one of which is
reprefented by the Creek Indians as a kind of paradife, inhabited by a
peculiar race, whofe women are incomparably beautiful, and are called
bythem Daughters of the Sun. Thefe iflanders are faid to be aremnant
of an ancient tribe, nearly exterminated by the Creeks.
Borany.] The botany of the United States, including the Floridas,
or, in other words, of the whole region extending eaftward from the Mif-
fiffippi to the ocean, and fouthward from the river St. Lawrence with its
lakes to the gulf of Mexico, may be divided into thofe vegetables which
are common to the whole country, and thofe that occupy only particular
arts.
The moft generally diffufed fpecies among the timber trees are, the
willow-leaved oak growing in the fwamps ; the chefnut oak, which in the
fouthern ftates attains an enormous fize, and is almoft as valuable for its
{weet farinaceous acorns as for its wood, the white oak, the red and the
black. Next tothefe in rank are two kinds of walnut, the black, and the
white or the hiccory, efteemed for its oily nuts. The tulip tree and faffa-
fras laurel, more impatient of cold than the preceding, appear as fhrubs
on the Canadian borders, rife into trees in the midland ftates, and on the
warm banks of the Altamaha attain the full perfeétion of ftatelinefs and
beauty. The fugar maple, on the contrary, is feen only on the northern
fides of the hills in the fouthern ftates, and increafes both in fize and fre.
quency in the more bracing climate of the New England provinces. The
{weet gum tree, the iron wood, the American elm, the black poplar, and
the taccamahacca, appear in every ftate of the Union wherever the foil is
fuitable, without being much affected by variety of climate. The light
fandy tracts, both wet and dry, are piaripeny inhabited by the important
and ufeful family of pines; of thefe the chief f{pecies are the Pennfylva.
nian fir, the common and the hemlock fpruce fir; the black, the white,
aad the Weymouth pine; and the larch: nearly allied to which are the
* Weld, i. 179. :
t On the N, E. of ‘he Chefapeak is another of great extent called Cedar Swamp; and
fome other large fwamps occur in the fouthern ftates, :
t Such long and arous apprllatives, derived from favages who have a werd of
Mureen fylbles to exprefs the number dhree, are not unfrequent in North American
Gtography,
arbor
558 UNITED STATES.
arbor vite, and the red cedar of America. The {maller trees and thrube
that are difperfed in all parts of the United States, among a multitude of
others, confitt of the following: the fringe tree, the red maple, the {y.
mach and poifon oak, the red mulberry, the perfimmon plum, and the
triple-thorned acacia.
The mountainous ridges are not fufficiently high to be rich in alpine
plants; their climate however is fenfibly cooler than that of the plains,
on which account thofe of the fouth are inhabited by the vegetables of
Pennfylvania and the northern ftates, while the highlands of thefe abound
in the plants of Canada.
But the glories of the American flora are principally confined to Vir.
ginia and the fouthern. ftates ; it is here that the unfading verdure of the
wide favannas, the folemn magnificence of the primeval foretts, and the
wild exuberance of the fteaming {wamps, offer to the aftonifhed admirz.
tion of the botanift every thing that by colour, by fragrance, and by
form, can delight the fenfes and fix the attention.
The low ridges of calcareous foil running parallel with the rivers, and
rifling from the level favannas into extenfive lawns and {welling hills, are
nerally covered with open or entangled woods, except where they have
Beer converted into tillage by the induftry of the inhabitants. In thefe
rich tracts grow the lofty palmetto, the evergreen oak, the fwect bay,
the benzoe laurel, the common laurel, the wide fhading broom Pine, and
the red cedar. The itraight filvery columns of the papaw fig, rifing to the
height of twenty feet, and crowned by a canopy of broad finuated leaves,
form a ftriking feature in this delicious fcenery ; while the golden fruit
and fragrant bloffoms of the orange, here realize the ancient traditions of
the groves of the Hefperides, Superior however to all thefe is the tower.
ing magnificence of the great magnolia: in this rich marly {oil it rifes
above a hundred feet, with a perfectly erect trunk, Naberens a fhady
conical head of dark-green foliage: from the centre of the coronets of
leaves that terminate the branches expands a large rofe-fhaped bloffom of
pure white, which is fucceeded by a crimfon cone, containing the feeds of
a beautiful coral red colour ; and thefe falling from their cells remain for
feveral days fufpended from the feed-veffel by a filky thread, fix inches or
more in length ; fo that whether in this flate or in bloffom it is fecond to
none for grandeur and beauty. ;
The level plains by the hides of rivers, and therefore generally ina
flooded ftate during the whole rainy feafon, are called favannas. "The trees
that grow upon them are of the aquatic kind, particularly the beaver
tree, and American olive; thefe are generally cither fingle or grouped
together into {mall open groves, while the larger part of the meadow is
overgrown with long fucculent herbage, intermixed with thrubs and plants;
the candleberry myrtle, with numerous fpecies of azaleas, kalmias, an-
dromedas, and rhododendrons, arranged by the hand of nature into
thickets and fhrubberies, entwined and over-arched by the crimfon grana-
dilia, or the tantaftic clitoria, here difplay their inimitable beauties in full
Juxuriance. The fides of the pools and the fhallow plathes are adorned
by the bright crulean flowers of the ixia, the gotden bloffoms of the
yellow canna, and the rofy tufts of the hydrangia, while the edges of the
groves, and the dubious boundaries of the favannas, rifing bmpapen sy
towards the foreits, are fringed by innumerable gay varieties of the phlox,
by the fhrinking fenfitive plant, the irritable dionzea, the glowing amaryllis
atamafco, and the impenetrable ranks of the royal palmetto. P
The {wamps are at all times, even in the height of fummer, for the mo
part under water, and are diftinguifhed from the reft of the country by
“>
the crowded
taccamahaccs
re{que tree in
rife from the
feven feet, a
ninety feet hi
fhaped top,
This plat
oily feeds con
that are contta
Hundreds
to defcribe wi
ines itp dwa
in Wi t
climbers ee,
the fummits o.
the platanus, t
aid many hu
thefe our limit
have fketched {
try, the mott <
European fcien
ZooLoey. |
eelponds with t
ence in fize anc
tioned the bifon
and they were
Pennfylvania,
tegions, beyond
evingecon '
priogs upon thi
will Frobebly in
have been in Bri
in fize, and is ff
Miffouri and Mi
the Virginian de
Bears, wolves
sew rapacious a
tigers,
_ The beaver is
his cabin, built ii
s found in all th
likewife builds h
fid to be found
the feal, ufed to
in South Americ
Among the bis
numerous forts c
fpecies, ‘I'he tur
hey were brous
about 15243 the
thors, being Gui
it may be conceit
rubs
de of
e fu.
d the
Ipine
lains,
les of
ound
> Vir.
of the
id the
Jmira.
nd by
8, and
ls, are
y have
1 thefe
‘t bay,
ey and
r to the
leaves,
n fruit
tions of
towers
it rifes
a fhady
bnets of
{fom of
eeds of
ain for
ches or
ond to
\ y ina
e trees
beaver
ouped
dow is
plants;
AS, alle
e into
Nae
in full
Horned
of the
of is
tibly
sblos,
aryllis
e mot
ry by
Y the
UNITED STATES. 559
the crowded ftems of the cane, the light foliage of the tupelo tree, the
taccamahacca, and the white cedar: this laft is perhaps the moft pi@tu-
refque tree in all America ; four or five enormous buttreffes or rude pillars
rife from the ground, and unite in a kind of arch at the height of about
fevea feet, and from this centre there {prings a ftraight column eighty or
ninety feet high, without abranch: it then {preads into a flat umbrella-
fhaped top, covered with finely divided leaves of the moft delicate green.
This platform is the fecure abode of the eagle and the erane; and the
cily feeds contained in its cones are the favourite repaft of the paroquets
that are conftantly fluttering around.
Hundreds more of interefting plants yet remain, and we might go on
to defcribe with unabated pleafure the profufion of Wicuscoclbied lu-
pines and dwarf palmettos that relieve the dufky hue of the pine foreits
in which they live ; the wild vines, the gourds, the bignonias, and other
climbers that difplay to the fun their fruits and glowing blofloms above
the fummits of the talleft trees ; we might defcribe the tent-like thade of
the platanus, the regal {plendour of the crimfon flowered horfe-cheft-nut,
aud many humbler, lefs obtrufive, yet not lefs exquifite beauties > but
thefe our limits will not admit; it is enough for the prefent purpofe to
have fketched fome of the charaCteriftic features in the botany of acoun-
try, the moft acceflible of all the warmer climates to the inveftigations of
European fcience.
Zootoex.] The domeftic zoology of the United States nearly cor-
efponds with that of the parent country, with fome few fhades of differ-
ence in fize and colour. Ameng the larger wild animals may be men-
tioned the bifon, large herds of ih ufed to be feen near the Miffifippi,
and they were once very numerous in the weftern parts of Virginia and
Pennfylvania. The mufk bull and cow only appear in the more weftern
regions, beyond the Miffiffippi. Among the animals now loft are claffed
the mammoth, whofe enermous bones are particularly found near the falt
Iprings upon the Ohio. The moofe deer are become extremely rare, and
will probably inno long time be utterly extirpated, as the wolf and boar
have been in Britain. The American ftag rather exceeds the European
in fize, and is feen in great numbers feeding in the rich favannas of the
Mifouri and Miffiflippi, where there are alfo herds of that kind called
the Virginian deer.
Bears, wolves, and foxes are found in all the ftates, together with a
few rapacious animals of the cat kind, improperly called panthers and
tigers. :
The beaver is well known from the fur, and the fingular formation of
bis cabin, built in ponds for the fake of fecurity. This induftrious animal
is found in all the ftates, and is fomewhat imitated by the mufk rat, who
likewife builds his hut in fhallow ftreams. Some kinds of monkeys are
faid to be found in the fouthern ftates. The morfe, or fea cow, and
the feal, ufed to frequent the northern fhores; and the manati, common
in South America, is faid fometimes to appear on the fouthern coatts.
Among the birds there are many kinds of eagles, vultures, owls; and
numerous forts called by European names, though gencrally of diltin&
fpecies, ‘The turkey is peculiar to America and abounds in the north *.
They were brought from Mexico to Spain, and from Spain to England
about 1524; the African poultry, or mel:agrides, of more ancient au-
thors, being Guinea fowls. Virginia abounds with beautiful birds, and
it may be conceived that vaft varieties of aquatic birds. crowd the nu-
® Pennant, A, Z.i, 349,
* gerous
560 UNITED STATES.
merous lakes and rivers, the largeft being the wild fwan, which fume.
times weighs thirty-fix pounds. Some of the frogs are of remarkable
fize; and the tortoife or turtle, fupplies a delicici:s food, while the
alligator is frequent inthe fouthern rivers. Of ieepeuis Mr. Morfe en.
merates near forty kinds found inthe United Terri's, Virginia, in par.
ticular, producing great numbers. ‘T'he rattlefne’.. ‘5 the largeit, being
from four to fix Ret in length, and is one of the moft dreaded. Among
the fith are mott of thofe which are efteemed in Europe; and of thofe
that are peculiar may be mentioned a large kind of white trout found in
the lakes.
Mrveratocy.] The mineralogy of the United States will not fuppl
an extenfive theme, as. few fubftances are, found, except thofe which are
indeed the moft precious to induftry, iron, and coal. Iron ore is found in
great abundance in Maffachufets, where there are confiderable manuface
tures. Copper ore alfo appears in that province. In Rhode ifland there
are mines of iron andcopper*. On the banks of the Conneéticut ig q
lead mine, but too expenfive to work ; and zinc is alfo found with talc,
and cryftals of various colours. At Philipfourg in New York is a filver
mine ; and lead, zinc, and manganefe, with copper and coal. The middle
provinces feem only to produce iron ore; but Virginia is celebrated for
various minerals. A lump of gold ore was found near the falls of the
‘river Rappahanoc, probably rolled down from its fource, or that of fome
tributary rivulet. ‘There are lead mines which hit from fifty to eighty
pounds from one hundred of ore : copper and black lead are alfo found;
and there is abundance of excellent coal on both fides of James River,
faid to have been difcovered by a boy in purfuit of cray fith. Coal alfo
abounds towards the Miffiffippi and Ohio ; and at Pittfburg is of fuperior
quality : but this valuable mineral is chiefly worked in Virginia, where
the beds feem very exteniive. Limeftone is rare on the eaft of the Blue
ridge ; but there is a vein of marble which croffes James river. Amethyts,
or violet coloured cryftals, are alfo found in Virginia. North Carolina
is croffed by a long ridge of limeltone, in a fouth-wetterly direCtion, but
no minerals feem to have been difcovered. In the territory fouth of the
Ohio, what is called ftone-coal is found in the Cumberland mountains, or
great laurel ridge, aud there are falt fprings near the upper branches of
the Tennaffee. In South Carolina there are faid to be appearances of
filver and lead, with abundance of iron ore, and quarries of free ftone.
Georgia, the moft fouthern ftate, is of a rich foil; but befides a bank
of oyiter fhells, ninety miles from the fea, there feems no mineralogic
difcovery.
MEpIcAL WATERS.] There are feveral medical waters of various
virtues, in different provinces of the United States. In the province of
Vermont, or the Green Mountain, there is a remarkable fulphureous |
f{pring, which dries up in two or three years, and burfts out in another
place. Thofe of Saratoga in the province of New York, are remarkably
copious, and furrounded with fingular petrifa&tions, They are confider
ably frequented, as well as thofe of New Lebanon in the fame country.
Two warm {prings occur in Virginia, one of them in 112% Thefe are
called the {prings of Augufta: others more frequented are near the river
Patomak. The falt fprings in Kentucky alfo deferve mention; and
there are others in the province of Tennaffee. ;
NaTuRAL curiosiTixs. ] The natural curiofities of the United States
* Native copper is found on the river Tonnagan, which runs into Lake Superior.
Mackenzie, xii.
are
are numerous, and
which has been pa
ing appearances,
Blue Mountaing, a
common features of
American Geo
titic cave, in which
room about 20 feet
the farther end, at
water, Near Durh
to Move with one
England it would be
In the rovince of
yards in diameter, fo
| ttitic cave in whic
In the territory on tl
atend for thirty or
deer, wild cattle, and
this diftri& is chiefly 1
frm, with an adjoini
dition that they paffed
of their firft refidence
tiral bridge is a fublin
foil and trees, acrofs a
of ages by a brook, w
beneath. The breadt!
uefs of the mafs about
IsLanps.] The chi
and, (the province «
three {mall iflands attac
hhores of North Caroli:
the various bays and lal
Ml
H
Boundaries, — Original
Bounpanres,) JN «i
RIES, } pol
toconfider the boundarj
taftern boundary of Vers
“Ng, according to Lo
letras de Canatagua,
dent to a boun ry, bi
UNITED STATES.
are numerous, and have been inveftigated with that laudable attention,
which has been particularly direéted by the Englith towards fuch interelt.
ing appearances. Befides the irruption of the river Patomak through the
Blue Mountains, and other objets already mentioned, the principal un-
common features of nature fhall be briefly indicated from Mr. Morfe’s
American Geo phy. In the province of Vermont is a curious ftalac-
titic cave, in which, after a defcent of 104 feet, there opens a {pacious a |
room about 20 feet in breadth, and roo in length, with a circular hall at | Ay |
5 61
the farther end, at the bottom of which boils up adeep fpring of clear
water, Near Durham in New Hamphhire is a rock fo poifed on another,
ato move with one finger ; a natural remain of a ruined hill, though in
England it would be called Druidical.
In the province of New York a rivulet runs under a hill about feventy
yrds in diameter, forming a beautiful arch in the rock ; and there is a fta-
k@itic cave in which was found the petrified fkeleton of a large {nake.
| In the territory on the N.W. of the Ohio, the favannas, or rich plains, Mi
atead for thirty or forty miles without any tree; they are crouded with Hi
der, wild cattle, and turkeys, and often vifited by bears and wolves; but 1
this diftri& is chiefly remarkable for a number of old forts, of an oblong
form, with an adjoining tumulus or tomb. As the Mexicans have a tra-
ition that they paffed from the north, thefe forts may perhaps be remains
of their firft refidence,.or of fome nation which they fubdued. The na-
tural bridge is a fublime and ftriking curiofity, being a rock covered with
foil and trees, acrofs a chafm, appearing to have been opened in the courfe
of ages by a brook, which now runs between two and three hundred feet
beneath. The breadth of this bridge is about fixty feet ; and the thick-
nfs of the mafs about forty.
Istanps.] The chief iflands belonging to the United States are Long
Ifand, (the province called Rhode Ifland being continental, with two or
three {mall iflands attached,) and a few infular ftripes of land near the
hores of North Carolina. ‘The others, fcattered along the coaft, and in
the varieus bays and lakes, are of little confequence.
- es pripitirmning” =
ee CPS oy. pee seoeragy pos GI oe 2 ate - .
RAT eet dot ROE DipePaa BE RANE Oo NES ut Toa ac é ae aie <4
THE SPANISH DOMINIOQNS ~~
IN NORTH AMERICA.
ti
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Boundaries. — Original Population. — Hiftorical Epochs, — Antiquities.
N cftimating the extent of thefe large and flourifhin
BounpaRtes. } I poffelfions, it will be neceflary, ‘3 the firft nied;
toconfider the boundaries. ‘That towards the fouth-eaft is decidedly the
tatern boundary of Veragua, the lait provinoe of North America; con-
iting, according to Lopez, of a ridge as already mentioned, called
Sietras de Canatagua. Towards the north the Spaniards do not readily
alent to a boundary, but in fact claim the whole N.W. of America,
Oo pretending
DE, AEN LOR LN PTE POPE UE
mncoctioneent E ==
AYE SARIN E
562 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
iia ‘ he Englifh, or any other nation,
pretending a prior right pie ae bh bg by which name they imply
and appoint a ort of America. Within land the boundaries of Lonifi.
eal tHE ER WY. off fled by Spain, afcended, even by the Englith maps,
ana, formerly PL ‘ke oak of the fources of the Mifiifippi ; but ince
to the ae ‘ acquired by the United States, the limits of the
that province has Sot t fought on the weftern coait, where the Eng.
Spanith peli va ort of Sir Francis Drake, and mark the Spanith
lith efpecially claim St. Francifeo, to the north of the town of Montery,
Seaton Mien na was the boundary fixed by the lat treaty. Upon
But Cape te ai 6f the ‘Rio dél’Nerte may be aflumed as a me-
the whole, the fou 4] asi are feveral fmall Spanifh fettlements to the N,
dial boundary, ae ‘agit lat. 39° 305 while the fouthern boundary is
of Santa Fé, wot Hata ‘ tern “af 32 degrees, or 1920 ¢. tniles,
about Tat. if i little contefponds to this prodigious length of territory ;
But aioe a . Sed the Atlantic fhore of Eat Florida to thot
though in one p ni nua) Wantundtwta diet three-quarters of thet
of California on the ct he of the ifthmus in Veragua is not abore
pr fe se gehaeel the medial breadth can fearcely be computed at
25 B. miles: ere
mor eid ooh Rec tees in North America ares as Fentilen ene
: nea ir extent; while fearcely even a V.1aBe iy ghd ei ve
neg nelly pi > th or in what he calls the Interior provinces
tropic towards “in gaahidieds; mott of them %n ruins 3 nor is there aiy
There are re : na can contribute to the pro{perity of the parent
hope that te eee fays he, there are mountains and bral
eae iecd i wi "4 1¢t except the mines, which however fo much abound
without any prod td ik New Bifcay, and New Leon, that they its
el igi a thern provinces: He proceeds to obferve, sh ph
thy 'ot te ia d kingdoms of Leon, Santander, &c. begin
Ramee of leatake to comitries, which in fact are mere defarts, eae
ag hig Ai ¥ d fecure territory 5 while the pretended poffetlion
a foot of real an fury not lets than 1,200,000 peas or dollar
colts the royal treafury |
annually, : ry iverfal feograpn
Deviate) The — Dag 4 lh hs makes ant grat
twat be pa Meee SE tbe okie wosld. Hence a goero geaptoat is
deur of 43 elena ar or that which prefents an account of “hl ie
fcription — Date however excellent in a detached work, has “a
vince, or even Kate, the prefent plan. But the divilions and bot niarie
been admitted at sein North America have been fo lirtle meng
of the Spamith Looe, even of great celebrity, have fallen into oa apg
that aris "hie the peenliar duty of a geographical worl . ed
a ah diilegorehenbons, fome details on this fubjeét become
viate fuc
avoidable. 1 lent empire in North America, belonging to
The oS re ba the following grand divitions,
Spain, may be co -
VICE-NOYALTY OF EW SPAIN, ’
ts
" i called
This important portion prefents the following aero Nap
sont proceeding from the fouth towards the on Saad
ig soe provinces of Vera Cruz (which embraces 'Tabafco!, and
t Ol ‘
‘ oy ont of
, ith upon the governme
of Merida or Yucatan, border to the fouth u; g sae
Gitatimala, which
properly Grand C
1. Merida, or
2. Vera Cruz, ¢
gulf of Mexico,
nuco, which yrifeg
beng about 210
25 to 28.
j 3+ Oaxaca.
4. Pucbla de los 4
5. Mexico.
6. Valadolid, or |
7. Guadalaxara,
8. Guanaxuato,
9. Zacatecas.
10. San Luis Po)
11. Durango, inc
Mapimi. The larg
boldt’s defcription,
Alcedo, who gives
and adds that the c
Cuhuahua of Hum}
tal of New Bifcay,
rango is more know
hint what can have
name and province, o
uthor fo grofsly inac
ean geography *,
12. Sonora, which
or Sinaloa.
13. The extreme
are fubjeét to the int
be ftyled the intenda:
of the South,
14. New Mexico, \
or other advantages,
15. The Californias
he provinces imm
Mexico, Puebla, Ver;
Guadalahara, Zacatec
Santander, Texas, Col
Califorhia,
What are
tinder, New Bifeay, «
exico, The two fir!
§°vernor of Chihuahua
calléd th
* The province of Tarun
among the provinces of New
the Lithoprie of Durango, |
‘aramara Tonsue is alfo me
t So Humbolte, Pe 15s,
tong the provinees immedia
With Texas and “ohahuila,
fon anil Saotander are Kove
“Ange, Sonora, Cohahuila
weral of the Taternal Province
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 563
Guatimala, which chiefly contains the diftri€ts on the Pacific, or more
properly Grand Ocean.
1. Merida, or Yucatan. ,
2. Vera Cruz, a maritime province of vaft extent, reaching along the
gulf of Mexico, from the river Baraderas to the great river of Pa.
nuco, which rifes in the metallic mountains of San Luis Potofi,
being about 210 leagues in length, while the breadth is only from
acto 28.
“3. Oaxaca.
4. Puebla de los Angiles.
5. Mexico.
6. Valadolid, or Mechoacan.
7. Guadalaxara,
' 8. Guanaxuato.
g. Zacatecas.
10. San Luis Potof, which includes New Leor. and Santander.
11. Durango, including New Bifcay, and the diftri¢t called Bolfon de
Mapimi. ‘The large province of Taraumara is totally omitted in Hum-
boldt’s defcription, though it is defcribed at confiderable length ‘by
Alcedo, who gives the names of forty-eight miffions in that region ;
and adds that the capital is S. Felipe-de-Chiguagua. | This ‘laft is’ the
hihuahua of Humboldt and Pike, who feem to arrange it as the capi-
tal of New Bifcay. The former fays that the intendancy of’ Du-
rango is more known undér the name of New Bifcay; and “gives no
hint what can have occationed the error of Alcedo’ concerning the
name and province,of Taraumara. On the other hitid, Alcedo is dn
author fo grofsly inaccurate that his authority is of little ufe in’ Ame-
rican geography *.
12. Sonera, which contains the province fo called, and that of Cingloa,
or Sinaloa.
13. The extreme provinces towards the N.E. Cobahuila and Texas
are fubjeé&t to the intendant of San Luis Potofi. This portion might
be ftyled the intendancy of San Luis of the North, and the other part
of the South.
14. Neev Mexico, which is faid to be a mean diftrict, without mines
or other advantages,
15. The Californias,
The provinces immediately fubje& to the viceroy of New Spainare,
Mexico, Puebla, Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, Merida,’ or Yucatan, Valadol'd,
Guadalahara, Zacatecas, Guanaxuato, San Luis Potofi (except New
Santander, ‘l'exas, Cohahuila, and the kingdom of Leon), Old and New
Califorhia.
What are calléd the InterxaL Provinces, are New Leon, San-
tinder, New Bifcay, or Durango, Sonora, Cohahuila, Texas, and New
Mexico, ‘The two firft are fubje&t to the viceroy; the others to the
governor of Chihuahua +.
* The province of Tarnumara is alfo repeatedly mettione! by Eftela, xxvii. 120, 191,
anong the provinces of New Bifeay, whieh he-reprefents as being of the fame limits with
the ithopric of Durango, See aifo Alcedo, art, Taraumara and Vizcaya Nueva. 'Vhe
Taratmara ‘Tonyrue is alfo mentioned hy Humboldt, and the name appears iv his map.
+ So Humboldt, po 155, wher@in one pafage he ineludes New Leon and Sancander
among the provinces immediately fubjes to the viceroy, and in another’ excepts them, alon
With ‘Texas and Cohahuila, In another paflage, p. 20, he fays, the new kingdom at
Leon and Snotander are governed by the viceroy of Mexice > while the defert regions of
Wurtngo, Sonora, Cohahuila, ‘Texas, and New Mexico, eloug to the commandant ye-
weral of the Taternal Provinces,
Ooa3
Before
Lae apt ei eget eg te pega os os 7
= : ee OE Ss Rees Ee
564 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
Before the divifion into Intendancies, in 1776, the divifions of New
Spain wero,
1. The kingdom of Mexico.
2. The kingdom’ of New Galicia.
3- The new kingdom of Leon. -
4. The colony of New Santander.
5. The province of Texas.
6. The province of Cohahuila.
7. The province of New Bifeay.
8. The provinee of Sonora.
9. The province of New Mexice,
10. The Californias.
Thefe ancient divifions are ftill much ufed in the country. The go. |
vernor of Chihuahua is ftyled captain-general, an arrangement which
commenced in 1779. He 1s alfo called Commandante-General of the In-
ternal Provinces. The Americans contend that Louifiana, now ceded
to them, extends to the Rio del Norte, while the Spaniards affume, under
the province of Texas, all the regions as far as the river Mexicano, or
Mermentas to the E. of the river Sabina. The extreme Spanith fettle.
ments on the N.W. ate the Miffion of San Francis, to the S. of Cape
Mendocino, and the hamlet of T'aos in New Mexico.
Humboldt eftimates the extent of New Spain in fquare leagues of
25 to the degree, at 118,478, and the population in fag 59837,100%,
being 49 to the fquare league; but molt unequally diftributed, fome
portions prefenting 301, as that of Puebla, while others only contain
one, as that of Old California.
But a confiderable part of the Spanith empire in North America has
not been vifited nor defcribed by Humboldt, the Commanpancy of
GuatimaLa, which contains the following diftricts, proceeding from
the north towards the fouth.
1. Chiapa. ,
2. Vera Paz. Thefe two provinces border on the north with thofe
of Vera Cruz and Yucatan, belonging to the vicero alty.
3- Guatimala Proper, which is fubdivided into the diftri&e of Soconu/o,
Suchitepec, Sonfonate, San Salvador, St. Miguel, Tigue/galpa, and Xeru
or Choluteca.
4- Honduras.
5. Nicaragua.
6. Cofla Rica.
The province of V7 » though geo rephicaliy within the bounds
of North America, as erimitted by all the Spanith authors, yet politi-
cally forms a part of the government of Tierra Firme, in South Ame.
rica, under the viceroy of New Granada. [i is very mountainous, and
unhealthy on account of the perpetyal rains. It was difcovered by
Colon on his fourth voyage, 1503, and granted to him and his heirs by
the Spanith monarch. ‘Chere are rich mines; and the capital is 4 fmall
town of the fame name, but often called St. Yago, as being under the
ion of that faint +.
Of the two moft fouthern provinces of the government of Cruatimals,
Cofta Rica, though mountainous, produces excellent cacao or chocolate
The name was derived from the rich mines; one at Tifingal having
co) Sey 4,097,100, there being an error in the fum total
t Aleedo in voce,
been
| the Malays, wh
jer 8 voyages,
been reputex
provinces 0!
natives are ;
goldfmiths;
Guatimala
digo and chi
‘eenies
e r
imodlities a
one of the my
and from its y
habitants is di
The Intend
fince the revol
are prevalent i
Another dit
of which ther
that of Guada
be 3 and it
uthern part ¢
proofs that the
miffions or relig
ing over a vait «
ORIGINAL P
regions was ya,
derably civilize.
races. The or:
the fruitlefs ref
guage appears t
the Mexican yoc
to be any refen
nor are the ‘T'ata
of the Mexicans
other races, ‘T’
the old continent
It cannot be alloy
ditin& race of
curious quettion
languages, as the
lour, relemblin
more Civi
It is however de:
kingdoms, were ¢
they would have
human pature.
Peruvieny were @
Miety A conjedt
Tehoka, or 8s
a Peraufe, and
* Eftalla, xxvii. 17
unfortunately chiefly
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 565
peen reputed another Potofi*. Nicaragua is one of the moft woody
provinces of New Spain, but the plains are very fertile; and the
natives are accounted fingularly ingenious, efpecially as muficians and
Idfmiths. a
Guatimala is chiefly celebrated for the produétion of excellent in-
digo an chocolate, the latter particularly belonging to the diftrift of
Soconuico,
The governor of Guatimala is Myled Captain GENERAL, and can
{carcely be confidered as dependent on the viceroy of New Spain. It is
one of the moft fertile and populous divifions of the Spanith fettlements,
and from its voleantie @ature producing few mines, the induftry of the in-
habitants is direéted to more ufeful purpofes.
: The Intendants ave generally military officers of a certain rank; and
: Aan fince the revolt of our colonies it appears that military governors and laws
tig are prevalent in thofe of Spain.
. : Another divifion is that of Aunrewces, or fupreme courts of juftice,
pe 4 of which there are three; that of Guatimalas that of Mexico; and
bg -s that of Guadalaxara. This laft extends over the whole northern pro-
fettle vinces; and it is remarkable, that the bifhopric of Durango, in the moft
Ca : fouthern part of New Bifcay, likewife extends over all thefe provinces:
ts proofs that their fettlement is very imperfe, and chiefly maintained b
re miffions or religious ftations, one bifhopric and one tribunal here extend-
100%, ing over a vait empire.
a ORIGINAL wei soggy The . ~s population of thefe extenfive
’ regions was various, confilting of Mexicans, and other tribes; confi-
seal derably civilized in the centre, while to the north and fouth were favage
fi lias races. The origin of the Mexicans remains im great obfcurity, after
vet of the fruitlefs refearches of many ingenious and learned men. Their lan-
g from guage appears to be totally different from that of the Peruvians; but
the Mexican vocabularies are very imperfe&t. There feems not however
to be any refemblance between either of thefe ges, and that of
thofe fay the Malays, who peopled the numerous iflands in the Pacific Ocean ;
nor are the T'atarian, or Mandfhur features to be traced in any account
wunbe, of the Mexicans or Peruvians, theugh fingularly dittii: from thofe of
wn other races. The animals of America are diftin “i from thofe of
the old continent ; asd could in no cafe have ended from them, If
it camnot be allowed that the great Creator, in like mauncr, ordained a
diftin& race of men for this continent, it will be aece lary, before this
curious queftion be determined, to colleét vocab) wics of the .\frican
bounds languages, as there are on that continent feveral nations ef a coppe: :0-
" lour, retembling the Americans: and the Mexicans avd / eouviai.s might
a p aes civilized, o- mere by ro Yt ‘an and accideht.
t is however y tohe regrett mn) isean empires, or
kingdoms, Boy Me 4; oe not to mention the crufe of humanity,
they would have afforded curious objets for philofe pie obfervers of
human patare. The opinion & be, that the Mexicans and
fogs were a difting® race from o ay Cay ns; and amitit a
aeie! conjectures it might be enquired i y did not proce: «o..
J on be va te tea orb Moe oat
Tehoxa, oy 3 » whole features, as defe and delineated }y
4 Peroule, an literary men who accompanied him, bear no refen.-
* Eftalla, xxvii, 178, lie ie ons a tolerable account of Gustimala, but ir ix
unfortunately chiefly eapiad Some parts of the cost are iliuftrated in Dum-
jiet's voyages,
Qo; blance
OA SR tg mame
e - = aan PR
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
blance to the Tataric. In this. cafe we may conceive that they are re.
mains of a people in eaftern Afia, who were expelled by the Mandthurs
on their progre{s from more weitern fettlements. ,
Historicar rrocus.] The hiftoyjcal epochs of Mexico have been
of little moment fince it was conquered by the Spaniards in 1521, when
the laft monarch Guatimozin perifhed, Motezuma having dicd in the
preceding year. Acccrding to the Mexican traditions their anceftors
confilled of feveral favage tribes, who about the tenth or eleventh cen.
tury of the Chriftian era moved in fucceflive migrations from unknown
regions, towards t= north and north-weit, and fettled in Anshuac.
About the beginning of the thirteenth century a tribe, more polithed
than the reft, advanced from the borders of the Californian gulf, and
took pofleflion of the plains adjacent to the great lake near the centre of
the country *, They were for a time governed by chiefs or judges, til]
the territories becoming more extenfive, the fupreme authority centered
at laft ina fingle perfon. Even from the mott extenfive accounts the
monarchical government had not lafted above 197 years ; that is, it com.
menced. about A.D. 1324, the firit monarch being Acamapitzin+,
Wars and rebellions, famines and inundations, contlitute the chicf fea.
tures of Mexican hillory; and the Spanifh government prefents few
events of moment, the natives being confined between the two feas, and
more eafily checked than in South America, where there is a wide ex.
tent of territory for retreat and confpiracy.
‘As-the names-and fucceffion of the Mexican monarchs may intereft
many readers, and:late. Spanifh writers feem tovhave treated this fubjec
with confiderable accuracy, and to have removed feveral received errors,
they fhall be fubjoined from the moit recent accounts t.
1. Acamapidl. was elied when the Mexicans eftablifhed themfelves
in the lake., He reigned 21 years with defpotic authority, though he
was tributary to a neighbouring fovereign.
2. Huitzizibuitl, fon of the former; yet not fucceeding by hereditary
right, he was elected by the chief men of the kingdom: reigned 2;
years.
3+ Chimalpopoca, brother of the former.
4 Jecohuatl, {on of the firit king bya flave, ruled with fupreme prudence,
and was the moft fortunate of the Mexican monarchs, fubduing many
neighbouring provinces. He erected two famous temples; one to the
idol galled the Woman Snake, and the other, which was highly cele.
brated, to Huitzilopochili, the chief of ihe Mexican divinities.
§+ Mocteeuhzuma, or Motezuma I. §, was general of the army, wher
he was chofen monarch on account of his merits and valour. He con
quered feveral neighbouring provinces, or rather’ villages: and diri&s,
In the ninth year of his reign the —_ was inundated by the lake, and
this event was followed by a fevere famine. He reigned 29 years.
6. Axayacatl was allo general when he was eleéted, though the carly
Spanith writers have fuppofed that he was the fon of his predeceflor.
q+ Tizoc was brother of the former, but was general when chofei
6
# Robertfon’s America, v, iii, p. 156.
+ For fome account of theie monarchs, and thofe of the ucighboyring Wwibes, th:
geader may confult Clavigore. :
3 Viayero, xxvi. 297.
§ Ths name has been corrupted, even by celebrated Englifh writers, to Montezuma,
as if it were Spanith or Italian, while other nations obferve the orthography. ‘Phe vane
Motezuma is fill preferved in the titles of feveral Spanifh families, particularly the Coun
of Motezuma and ‘Tula,
fovereign,
fovereigny “the
petty wars o
monarchy was
oifoned in th
8, Ahbuizot
the army.
to have facrifi
ing a rivulet
been predicte
kings, and ex
his reign was
which the cl
18 years.
9. JLofecu
and not the el
and nephew
reputation, tl
tion of the wa
_cefsful,. he ful
kingdom to ti
of his reign y
their writers
utmolt cuelty,
fate, deprivin
againft any of
nobles were re
bafladors wer
ina low voice
hiv luxury, tl
the e’omen in
but they were
them, one-thi
queror of Me:
Motezuma.
10. Cuitlah
was brother o
Spaniards, F
caufe he had p
Charles V. th
The extenfi
1530, but wa
fented as an i
and acquired ¢
expulfion in 1
mines of gold
and Sonora, o
as well as the in
ealt never wer
the power of |
out with the |
* Rohertfon's
t New Mexicc
sity of that name
re.
urs,
een
hen
the
tors
cen.
own
uae,
fhed
and
re of
, till
ered
} the
com.
in +,
' fea.
| few
) and
> Xe
tereft
ject
rors,
felves
rh he
itary
d 22
ence,
man y
0 the
cele.
when
» CONs
rics,
ry and
early
Dy.
hofer
o
sy the
enna,
e ane
Counts
reign,
SPANISH DOMINIONS. S67
fovereigny ‘the one office being regarded asa ftep to the other, The
petty wars of thefe princes «are void of all intereft ; and the Mexican
monarchy was far from boalting the-extent of the Poruvian. He was’
poifoned in the fourth year of his reign.
8. Ahbuizotl, brother of the former, and alfo commander in chief of
thearmy. At thé dedication of a temple he is faid, moft magnificently,
to have facriticed 72,000 prifoners.” He obftinately perfi‘ted in conduct.
ing a rivulet to Mexico, thongh it occafioned an inundation, as had
been predicted. Yet he was regarded as the greateft of the Mexican
kings, and extended the monarchy to the confines of Guatimala. During
his reign was difcovered: the quarry of the ftone called tezontli, with
which the chief edifices mothe city were conitructed. He reigned
18 years. :
9. Moéecuhzuma, or Motezuma I1., the ninth in the feries of kings,
and not the eleventh as Solis pretends, was the fon of the tixth monarch,
and nephew of: the ‘two lait. He was elected on account of his great
reputation, though high prieit in one of the temples. With the excep-
tion of the war againft the republic of Tlafcala, in which he was unfuc-
_cefsful, he fubdued feveral provinces, and is faid to have extended the
kingdom to the bounds of Nicaragua. He ‘was in the eighteenth year
of his reign when he was attacked by the Spaniards. According to
their writers his education as a prieft of fanguinary idols, led him to the
utmolt cuelty, luxury, and pride. He changed the coniticution of the
fate, depriving the plebeians of all employmien:s, and ordaining death
againft any of them who fhould dare to look him in the face. Even the
nobles were reduced to flavery, though loaded with idle titles. Am-
bafladors were ordered to approach in mean dreffes, and to {peak
ina low voice, while his only anfwer was Ha; it is well.’’ Such was
his luxury, that he every day changed his ‘cloaths and ‘utentils, while
the vomen in his haram exceeded 2500, and his noble attendants 3090 3
but they were exempted from taxes, while the peoole paid, fome cf
them, one-third of their property. ‘The letters of Cortez the con-
queror of Mexico, prefent fingular details, and proclaim the luxury of
Motezuma.
10. Cuitlahuatzin, or Guatinowin, as he is more commonly called,
was brother of Motezuma, and was elected during the war with the
Spaniards. He was taken prifoner, and ttranwled by order of Cortez, be-
caufe he had planned a revolt, after having fworn homaye to the Emperor
Charles V. thes king of Spain.
The extenfive peninfula of California was difcovered by Cortez ‘in
1536, but was fo completely neglected, that in mott charts it was repres
fented as an ifland*, ‘Ihe Jetuirs afterwards explored this ‘province,
and acquired a dominion there as complete as in Paraguay, On their
expulfion in 1766 ic was thought to be a not unfertile region, with fome
mines of gold and a valuable pearl fittery. The countries of Cinaloa
and Sonora, on the eaft fide of the Vermillion fea or gulf of California,
as well as the immenfe provinces of New Bifcay, and others on the north-
ealt never were fubjeét to the Mexican fceptre, but now acknowledge
the power of Spain, though the fettlers are few +. In 1765 a war broke
out with the favages, which ended in their fubmiffion 1771. During
* Robertfou's America, fii, 294, ‘
_'t New Mexico was difelofed in 1558 by Antonio @Epéo. Gale, p. $5, mentions a
sty of that name ax lately built :
Oo 4 thei
{a ee oe Cir ee
Pe
Se
‘a
teat. 3
eer
568 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
their marches the Spaniards difcovered at Cineguilla *, in the province
of Sonora, a plain of 14 leagues in extent, in which vaft quantities of gold
were found in large lumps, at the depth of only 16 inches. Before the
end of the year 1771 above 2000 perfons were fettled at Cineguilla ; and
other mines not inferior in wealth have been difcovered in other parts of
Sonora and Cinaloa. It is probable that thefe difcoveries have in.
ftigated other fettlements in the northern parts of New Spain and in
New Mexico. ‘Thefe colonizations, and the fettlement of Santa Fé,
and others in that vicinity, are important events in the hiftory of the
Spanifh territories, It is however to be lamented that the progrefs of
thefe fettlements has not been explained with more care and accuracy,
for no {mall ob{curity attends their chronology.
The hiftory of the Floridas is fufficiently known. After having been
_ contefted between the French and Spaniards, they were yielded to the
Englifh by the peace of 1763; but being regained by the Spaniards
during the American war, they were finally affigned to that nation by
the treaty of 1783.
Antiquitizs.] The ancient monuments of the Mexicans, feem chiefly
to conlift of a few fymbolical paintings, the colours of which are remark.
ably bright, but the defigns rude. Some of their utenfils and ornaments
have alfo been preferved, but are coarfe and uncouth. Their edifices
appear to have been little fuperior, being meanly built with turf and
ftone, and thatched with reeds. The great wae of Mexico was a
{quare mound of earth, only go feet wide, partly faced with ftone; with
a quadrangle of 30 feet at the top, on which was a fhrine of the deity,
probably of wood. In fpite of the enthufiattic fuggeftions of Clavigero,
juch a temple would i a inean figure, if placed by the fide of the
Peguan Shomadoo, ereéted at a barbarous and early epoch of the Pe.
guefe, who are not even now efteemed to be highly civilized. The mot
remarkable monument {till remaining is thought to be the aqueduct of
Chempoallan—but the archite& was a Francifcan miffionary +! Our
fanciful author proceeds to prove, from tribute-rolls that the Mexicans
ufed lime; but the beft proof would have been a few folid walls. As
the firft Spanifh conquerors, in the true fpirit of Mendez de Pinto, de.
{cribed every trifling objeé&t in the wildeft colours of hyperbole, fo the
warm imagination of Clavigero creates wonders for its own admiration,
while in truib the Mexicans appear to have little exceeded the inhabitants
of Eafter {fland in any of the arts }.
The uncertainty m1 the Mexican antiquities have been treated in fo
lively a manner by Eftalla, that the reader will ot be difpleafed to {ee
formic of his obfervations §. ;
““ While I was fearching in modern Mexico for monuments of the gran.
deur of the ancient. fo much vaunted by our hiftorians, and not finding
one trace of what tliev have painted, I communicated my doubts to Don
Luis de Trefpalacios, adjutant majcr of the prowincial regiment of that
capital, who knowing the purity of my intentions, with the greateft
generofity offered to ferve me as guide ; ard to his friendfhip I owe all
@ Lat. 30° 20' by Humboldt’s map. + Clavigero, i. 420.
t Careri, vi. 204, briefly defcribes the cous, os near Teoti Guacan, called
thofe of the fun and moon: but his account is brief and unfatisfatory, and drawings are
wanted, In the fquare of Otumba is « pyramid, or rather abelifk, ot one {tone ; but the
height is not mentioned, nog the antiquity. Eflalla, xxvii. 57.
§ Viagero, axvi. 408, '
that
that I fhall
rations and
America, fi
monuments
years he ha
ceeded thofe
{peak feriou
have painted
one half of
thofe immen
were tributa
Mexican em
related by h
of their exi
travagant wi
conftruct, w
“ Mutt -we
the manner
other metals
barked on bo
which loft in
certain that n
the Spaniards
Cafas that th
of Indians ; f
nificent edifice
them to prefe
leaving to the
former power
any monumen
were conquere
againit whom
neceflity not te
furd, on an ;
Cortez, in cor
“ T am far
thofe who imi
of — affa:
not furpafs 3
other Sine
aCortez, a D
with regard to
ferve the term
who only ftud
txiftences, or
other witnefles
racer, who. we
acomparifon w
continent of A
thena long time
of this defcripti
hovely
of |
licy or por
* It mut
aments
difices
rf and
was a
5 with
deity,
vigero,
of the
he Pe-
e mok
dud of
Our
lexicans
s. As
0, de-
fo the
tion,
bitants
J in fo
to fee
n-
finding
o Don
Df that
reateft
we all
» called
Pings are
but the
that
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 569
that I fhall tell you concerning Mexico*. He laughed at my exagge-
rations and anfwered in a jeering manner, time mutt be very voracious in
America, fince not being able, in a long feries of ages, to deftroy the
monuments of the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, here in a very fev
ears he has deren monuments and edifices, which rivalled or ex-
ceeded thofe of the ancient world. But let us leave exaggerations, ani
fpeak ferioufly. There are in Mexico no remains of what our hiftoriars
have painted: with the pardon of thefe refpe€table men I do not believe
one half of what they boaft. Thofe great palaces, gardens, and temple: 5
thofe immenfe and populous cities {ubje& to Mexico, and whofe kings
were tributary to Motesumes that high and vaft wall which divided the
Mexican empire from the republic of Tlafcala; and the other wonde's
related by hiftorians, fhould have Jeft at leaft fome few ruins in teftimory
of their exiftence, even granting that the Spaniards entertained the e-
travagant with of deftroying all, in order that they might be obliged.o
conftruét, with great labour and expence, other edifices far inferior.
« Muft-we not think in the fame manner of the relations -egncernig
the manner and delicacy with which the Mexicans worked gold ad
other metals ? What is become of all thofe precious toys? They were m-
barked on board a fhip, it is faid, and were loft. A wonderful emjre
which loft in a {mall veffel all its precious manufactures of gold! lis
certain that not a particle remains of thefe wonders. Let us fuppof in
the Spaniards an unnece: brutality ; let us grant to the fanatic uas
Cafas that the conquerors, in three or four years, devoured 50,000900
of Indians ; fhall we alfo imagine that they deftroyed the cities and age
nificent edifices, which their own intereit and converience mutt hav led
them to preferve? Shall we fuppofe they did it with a defign ofnot
leaving to the Indians any monuments which might remind them ofheir
former power? Abfurd fuppofition! ‘The Indians had no oceafia for
any monument of art to remind them that they had emperors, thathey
were conquered by the Spaniards, who thus became their lawfulords,
againit whom they neither can or ought to revolt ; and if there ws any
neceflity not to revive the memory of thofe tranfa&tions, it would e ab-
{urd, on an annual folemnity, te difplay in triumph the ftand:d of
Cortez, in commemoration | this famous conquett.
“Tam far from believing the abfurd calculations of Las Cafa and
| thofe who imitate his extravagance. It bg tk to me the moft vident
of human affairs, that in all the empire of Mexico, the populatn did
not furpafs 3 or 4,000,000, even including the people of T'lafca, and
other towns not fubje& to Motezuma. But are we then to fuppie that
aCortez, a Diaz, and other eye-witneffes of credit, repeated tathoods
with regard to the r of Mexico? Not pofitively ; I wuld re-
ferve the term of 8 for thofe relations of hiftorians or t:vellers,
who only ftudy to divert the meader with marvellous accountwf non-
caiftences, or idle exaggerations. I believe a Cortez, a Diz, and
other witnefles of the conqueft to have beer men of a very diffeent cha-
rater, who were naturally furprized at the grandeur of Mexio, from
acomparifon with what they had hitherto found in the ifles, ad on the
continent of America; and who, never converfant in works ofart, and
thena long ~~ a ~ fror . thera, were furprifed at the rudefexertions
of this defcription, For a long time they had feen nothing, xcept the
hovel of lavages, the rudeit furniture, ae | naked tribes, withot any po-
licy or regular form of government. In New Spain were founmumerous
* It mult be remembered that the work is in the form of letters to oudy.
y Nages
570 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
villages of neater and more regular houfes, and the city of Mexicg
appearing very populous, a powerful chief, fome policy, fome buildings
af great extent, and various objects of art, which they fondly com.
pared with the beft produtions of Europe*. All thefe objects they
encountered in a country whofe inhabitants they had previoufly held in
the meaneft eftimation ; and dazzled with fuch unexpeéted wealth in
goid, filver, and precious ttones, their inflamed imagination led them
to extravagant defcriptions. Thus in modern times, the enchanted
iflands of Juan Fernandez, of Tinian, of Otahiti, painted by voyacers
at fo many paradifes of delight, what are they? Cool judgment would
fay,—little. ifles, more or lefs agreeable. But fhall we fay that thefe
rdpectable voyagers have tolc fallehoods? No. "They arrived fatigued
wth the uniform and melancholy {pectacle, which a tempeftuous fea had
pefented during many months of navigation, wearied beyond expref.
fin, fick, deprived almoft of the neceffaries of life; the mot rocky
ant defart ifland would in their eyes, have affumed the charms ‘of pas
radfe. . But happily finding an ifland covered with verdant trees, with
fruits, with falutary plants, diverfified: witheryftaline rivulets, poffeffed
byhumane and beneficent inhabitants, eager to relieve their numerous
wats, fhall it be thought ftrange that no expreflions could equal their
feengs, in defcribing thefe countries ; though there were in faG no.
thig which they themfelves would not have defpifed in other circum.
ftanes. From thefe examples may be feen the real caufe of the ex.
aggrations of our hiftorians and conquerors; and if to this be added
the elf-intereft which they had to magnify the grandeur of their con.
ques, there is little room to be furprifed at their relations.
‘Equally abfurd and fabulous 1s the numerous population afcribed
to acient America by Las Cafas, who, by his infane ambition and
fanatifm has impreffed an indelible ftain upon the Spanifh name, ca.
lumnting the conquerors with the blackeit and moft horrible inipof.
tures, This hypocrite, who pretended fo much love of humanity, was
the vy man who began the flave trade; by whofe fatal counfels the
unhapy negroes were torn from their country to perifh in America,
Atroous advice! accurfed advifer! whofe name ought to be ex-
ecrate by all real lovers of humanity, as having caufed: the deftruc.
tion 0 5,0q0,000 of negroes. How could he preterd love to the In.
dians,who was fo cruel to the negroes? A wild ambition, a fero.
cious »leen, on feeling the complete difappointment of his inordinate
expections, were the caufes that inflamed his anger againft the Spi.
niards,ind ftimulated him to fo many calumnies and impottures, Who-
ever eamines with impartiality the hiftorians, on the contrary will
clearly erceive, that New Spain is much more populous at prefent than
in the me of Motezuma, though Mexico, and the other large towns,
might @n then have appeared magnilicent, when compared with whet
had prepufly been difcovered. It may even be affirmed, on the mol
fecure fyndations, that there are at prefent more Indians im the king.
dom of Mexico, than exilted at the time of the conquett ; for the
cuentas, y regiilers of the Indians, which are renewed every tive
years, fete to demonitrate that there is always an increale, and never
a diminutn: if by chance there be fewer families of Indians, it \
becaufe thy are mingled and confounded with the Spaniards, for man)
daughters. Cacics Tone married Europeans; and among the ance!!or:
of the prfent Spaniards were many of that defeription: and it is
* Oruhes of Spain, where the arts were not very brilliant at that period.
certit
, ‘
eertain that the
yet finding th
refufed the pro:
mifhnefs, repaic
fiderable amon;
in the Spanith |
what are they L
no connection,
toess When I
from the regil
fhall be taken fi
contagious difor
forgetting, how
there being ma
tion in thele rec
progreffive exan
The chief ret
ware, in which
this day, as the
black celour Ja
thole of the ‘Ch
luitre and perms
The other \
ruins. of dykes
reprefenting the
defs ; the hieroy
deer fkins, and ¢
and a coloffal |
and knives of
quatrics was y
and Yacal, wh
knives.
The ruins at
they prefent fix
phyry, probably
hor capitals,
Near the rive
to have been a
earthern ware a
that there mutt |
* Viagero, xxxi,
Mexico, of which 4
a pamphlet, lateiy
have feen nothing eo
the South Sea, exe
gold and filver,
co
8
Me
ey
/m
in
em
ted
ers
wuld
iefe
ved
had
ref.
cky
pas
with
ffed
rous
their
No.
sum.
eX.
dded
con.
ribed
and
y' Cae
ipof.
was
S the
rea.
eX.
tric.
e In.
fero-
Linate
Spa
Hho-
will
than
DwNs,
what
molt
king
the
five
never
it is
min)
SPANISH DOMINIONS. g7t
tertain that though women paffed from Spain to marry the conquerors,
yet finding them lame and wounded, they defpifed fuch hufbands, and
refufed the propofed alliances ; whence the men enraged at their fqueas
mifhnefs, repaid them with equal contempt, and wedded the moft con-
fiderable among the Indian females. It is true that no Indians remain
inthe Spanifh Weft India Iflunds; but the people there called Jibaros,
what are they but Indians mingled with the Spanifh race? They have
no connection, in colour nor form, with the negroes nor the. mulat-
toes) When I fay that there is a confiderable augmentation apparent
from the regilters of the Indians, I do not mean that the account
fhall be taken for any particular year, in which there may have been a
contagious diforder, or even for any particular {pace of five years ; not
forgetting, however, that thefe regifters always fall fhort of the truth,
there beinyr many caufes why the Indians fhould with to efcape men-
tion in thefé records; but that a judgment be: formed from a fair and
rogreffive examination.” }
The chief remaining antiquities of the Mexicans appear to be earthen
ware, in which the Indians ‘of Guadalaxara and Mechoacan excel to
this day, as the T'arafcas of the Peribanes in that of japanning, the
black celour latting as long as the wood itfelf, while the figures equal
thole of the Chinefe artilts, and the gilding in gold and filver is of great
luitre and permanency *, :
The other, Mexican antiquities, accordmg to Humboldt, are the’
ruins of dykes and aqueducis ; the ftone of facrifices, with a relievo
reprefenting the triumph of a Mexican king; a coloffal flatue of a god-
dels; the hierog!yphical pictures on paper made of a kind of caus, or
deer fkins, and cotion cloth; the foundations of a palace at Tezcuco:
and a coloffal relievo on a porphyritic rock. The ancient weapens
and knives of facrilice are of obfidian, itz, of which a kind of
quarries was wrought in the porphyritic mountains of Oyamel
and Yacal, whence the Spaniards call that part the mountain of
knives.
The ruins at Mitla, in the intendancy of Oaxaca, are fingular, as
they prefent fix columns of what Humboldt calls horneblende por.
phyry, probably the bafalt of the ancients. They have neither bafes
nor capitals.
Near the river Gila are the ruins called Cafa Grande, fuppofed
to have been an early refidence of the Mexicans. Fragments of
earthern ware are found mixed with pieces of wrought obfidian, fo
that there muft have been fome volcanic country on their progrefs +.
* Viagero, xxxi, 233. Humboldt fhewed at Paris a buft which he had acquired in
Mexico, of which the head diets rudely refembled the ancient Egyptian. He had allo
a pamphlet, lately printed ac Mexico, on fome antiquities recently difcovered. Yet I
have feen nothing co indicate that Ue people of Mexico excelled in ingenuity thofe of
the South Sea, except in fome advantages of fituation, particularly in the abundance of
gold and filver. + tHumb. 166, 264, 298,
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
CHAPTER II.
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Religion. — Government. — Population. — Army. — Navy. — Revenue,—
Political Importance.
HE religion of the Spanith fettlers in thefe province
RELIGION. ] T is walk Bhewn to be the Roman Catholic and of
fuch a fort as greatly to impede induitry or ger abe for it is com.
puted that one-fifth part of the Spaniards confilt of ecclefiaftics, monks,
and nuns; and that country muft be miferably defe€tive in which the
Jefuits were of diftinguithea induftry. The eftablifhment of the inqui.
fition, and the ftrange fanaticifm of the Spaniards, who difgrace the Eu.
ropean name, have not only crufhed all {pirit of exertion, but have pre-
vented the admixture of other Europeans, whofe induftry might improve
their fettlements, and whofe courage might defend them.
The religion of the ancient Mexicans appears to have been chiefly
founded on fear, the temples being decorated with the figures of de.
ftructive animals: and fa{ts, penances, voluntary wounds, and tortures,
formed the effence of their rites. Human facrifices were deemed the
moftt acceptable ; and every captive taken in war was cruelly tortured and
facrificed. The heart and head were the portion of the gods, while the
body was refigned to the captor, who, with his friends, fealted upon it.
The extin@tion of fuch a ferocious people may not be worthy of much
regret: but modern philofophy is apt to decide on a flight and imper.
feét view. ;
Thus, inftead of a benevolent deity, the worfhip of the Mexicans
may be faid to have been direéted to the evil principle of fome oriental
nations, whom all their efforts were ftretched to appeafe. ‘In the Mexi-
can language 7eot/ was a general term for any divinity ; and in abfcure
theory they believed in a creator whom they ftyled Jpalnemoani, that is,
*¢he by whom we live :'? but their fupreme deity was rather that evil
{pirit called Klacatecolototl, or the rational owl, whofe delight was to in-
jure and terrify. They believed in the immortality of the foul, anda
kind of tranfmigration ; the good being transformed into birds, and the
bad into ereeping animals. The principal deities were 13 in number,
among whom were the fun and moon; and Tlaloc, the god of water,
was the matter of paradife; but Mexitli, the god of war, received the
chief adoration. There were other gods of the mountains, of commerce,
&c. and the idols, rudely formed of clay, wood, or ttone, fometimes
decorated with gems and gold, were ::umerous. One was compofed of
certain feeds, palted tagegher with human blood. The priefts wore a
black cotton mantle, like a veil; and there feem to have bein orders of
monks, as among the eaftern nations of Afia. The aufterities and volun-
tary wounds of the prielts, their poifonous ointments, and other abomi-
nuble rites, even as related by Clavigero *, evince that the entire fyftem
was the moft execrable that has ever appeared on the face of the earth,
alike blafphemous to God, and pernicious to man. The whole is fo
totally unlike any fyftem ever practifed in any part af Afia, that there
is additional caule to believe that the people were either indigenal, or
* See i. 125, a father invited tu the facrifice of his daughter : and 232, the human
vidlims facrificed at the confecration of two temples were 12,210 |,
* have
have proceede
cruelties may
and even gay,
itfelf ; while i
been acknowl
crificed more
clamours of p
the real caufe
of manners hz
have been higt
as a fermon to
mult, by cand
human blood y
as fuch fcenes
carnage of a b
Numerous t
Spaniards thra
ography, if ¢
ittle intereft th
and the decorat
The archbith
inferior to the
courts are num
words the ing.
of the cathedra
nue of the arc
more than 10,0
2 to 4000.
three Propels’
curacies are wot
of Mexico is va
run a career of
merly the religi
chiefly beftowed
There are tw:
eight bifhops, |
Antequera, Guz
puted at 235, w
tion, the parithe
4000.
_GoveRNMEN?
ditary monarchy,
in the barbarous
late king was pr
with the celebrat
claffes of nobility
Hlatoani ; but the
Clavigero fays fig
by fome afferted |
* Eitalla, xxvi. 28:
t New Spain is dis
San Luis de Potofi,
No where is the huma
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 573
have proceeded from Africa, in which alone (as among the Giagas) fuch
cruelties may be traced. The Afiatic religions feem univerfally mild,
and even gay, as natural in the worthip of a being who is benevdlence
itfelf; while in Africa the preponderance of the evil {pirit feems to have
been acknowledged by many nations. Certainly the Spaniards never fa-
criiced more victims than the Mexicans themfelves devoted ; and the
— aM clamours of pretended philofophy will often be found in oppofition to
the real caufe of humanity, which it afpires to defend. Could a change
of manners have been effected without the ufe of the fword, it would
ices Hm have been highly defirable ; but the defign might have been as fruitlefs
| of asa fermon to a tyger or a rattlefnake. The cruelties of the Spaniards
ome mult, by candour, be partly imputed to the profufion of torture and
ir human blood which every where met their eyes in this unhappy country,
e
as fuch fcenes change the very nature of man, and inflame him like the
qui- carnage of a battle.
Numerous bifhoprics and archbifhoprics have been inftituted by the
pre- Spaniards throughout their American poffeffions ; but the ecclefiaftic
rere graphy, if even accurately arranged from the lateft information, would
' ittle intereft the general reader. ‘T'he prelates are no: ated by the king;
iefly and the decorations of the churches are exceflive.
des The archbifhopric of Mexico is extremely opulent, but ftill efteemed
ve inferior to the bifhopric of Puebla de los Angeles. ‘The ecclefiaftical
| the courts are numerous ; and the Holy Tribunal of the Faith, or in other
1 and words the inquifition, is extremely vigilant and fevere*. The chapter
e the of the cathedral comprehends twenty-fix ecclefiaftics. While the reve-
ont. nue of the archbifhop is computed at 100,000 dollars; the dean has
much more than 10,000; the canons from 7 to gooo ; the leffer canons from
sa 2to 4000. Ajl the curates are named by the viceroy, from a lift of
three propofed by the bifhop, but the firft is always preferred. Some
“ee curacies are worth many thoufand ducats ; and one in the archbifhopric
iental of Mexico is valued at 14,000 ducats a year ; while many of the curates
a run a career of ambition, and become prebendaries and bifhops. For-
{cure merly the religious orders held many curacies ; but at prefent they are
ae, chiefly beftowed on fecular priefts +.
evil There are two archbithoprics, thofe of Mexico and Guatimala t, with
a eight bifhops, Puebla de los Angeles, Oaxaca, Durango, Mechoacan,
ris Antequera, Guadalaxara, Yucatan, and Chiapa. The curacies are com-
puted at 235, which may be regarded as a proof of a very thin popula-
tion, the parithes in the little kingdom of Portugal being computed at
000.
; GoverNMENT.] The ancient government of Mexico was an here-
ditary monarchy, tempered however by a kind of election not unknown
in the barbarous ages of Europe, by which a brother or nephew of the
late king was preferred to his fons. Defpotifm feems to have begun
with the celebrated Motezuma. ‘Phere were feveral royal councils, and
claffes of nobility, moftly hereditary. The nobles were ftyled pili or
Hlatoani ; but the Spaniards introduced the general term of cazik,. which
Clavigero fays fignifies a prince in the language of Hifpaniola; but is
by fome afferted to imply a prieft among the Mahometan Malays. Land
* Eftalla, xxvi. 282. +t Alcedo, art. Nueva E/pana.
t New Spain is divided into four archbifhoprics, Mexico, Guadalaxana, Durango, and
San Luis de Potofi, No where does the inquifition exert fo oppreffive and cruel power.
No where is the human mind fo crufhed and abafed. Pike.
was
Nee at RN ENA ue
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 672-4803
ear
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
NE NT ES
$74 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
was not.fuppofed to belong to the monarch, but was alienable by the
proprietors. As writing was unknown there was no code of laws, bit
Clavigero has preferved fome traditions:on the fubje&t. Their armour
and tatics appear to have been extremely rude.
It is fuppofed that the Mexican empire commenced about’ the Chrif.
tian year 1920. The fovereigns feem to have been chofen indifferently
from the royal family. The political fyftem was feudal, there being 39
families which compofed the firft clafs in-the ftate, and each of them had
many thoufand vaflals. In the fecond clafs there were about 3000 fami.
lies ; the vaffals being in fact flaves, while the lords had the power of
life and death, ,
‘The laws were very fevere ;'and numerous crimes were capital. As
in Japan, the fons of the great were, during their abfence, retained ag
hoftages at the court.
: Each province was fubje& to atribute, excepting certain nobles, who
were obliged to take the field with a certain number of vaffals, the chief
charafterittic of the ancient feudal fyftem in Europe.
The viceroyal*y of Mexico may -be regarded as the chief in Spanith
America, andi extended over a territory equal to an European empire.
But there are feveral inferior governors, named by the Spanifh fovereign,
The large domain of Guatimala is ruled by a prefident, who is alfo eap.
tain-general, @f commander of the troops. The interior provinces alfo
form, a feparate prefidency: but the northern provinces being chiefly
held by religious fettlements, the civil authority is lefs confidered than
the ecclefiattic, ‘/ A lieutenant-governor of the two Californias prefides at
Monterey. The.government of Florida is of {mall importance.
No fmall. part of the viceroy’s.power confifts in the patronage of all
the churches, His falary was formerly 40,006 ducats, afterwards 60,000,
and laftly’84,000, exclufive of the difpofal of lucrative offices; monopo.
lies, cangivanges, prefents, &c. which .fometimes arife to an enormous
amount ®, His court is formed on the regal model, with horfe and foot
uards, a nd houfehold, and numerous attendants. The feries and
Eiftory of the viceroys may be found in the work of Alcedo +.
There are three grand tribuna's, called Royal Audiences, that of
Guatimala, that of Mexico, and that of Guadalaxara, The Regent,
Grand Oidor, or chief judge, is an officer of great importance. The
Acordaday or Holy Brotherhood, forms a powerful engine for the punih.
ment of crimes, and employs about 10,000 perfons ft. There are alfo
fevetal inferior tribunals, which decide {mall caufes without expence, and
with great promptitude. The greater alcaldias, or bailiwicks, in New
Spain are computed by Alcedo at 128; thofe of Guatimala at 25; but
he does not {pecify shofe of the third audience. Thiery has defcribed
the juttice of the little country Alcalds from his own perfonal ex-
perience.
Poputation.] The population of. all the Spanith provinces in North
America has been eftimated at little more than 7,000,000 3 of whom the
natives, called Indians, are_fuppofed to amount to 4,000,000 ; and the
Spaniards and inhabitants of mixed races are computed at pees ieee of
which the Spaniards may conftitute one-third. This calculation is how-
ever cofifidered as liberal, while it is probable that the whole population
of Spanith North Aimerica docs not exceed 6,000,000; nay‘as will after-
Ast. Nueva E/pana,
@ Efalla, xxvi. 289.
3 See alierwards the account of the capital.
wards
wards appear, it
the black vomit,
United States, ai
number of priett
which, however,
1612 the inhabita
140,000 f.
The populatior
the other Spanifh
in Europe, vulgu
of European rac
dants of whites
negroes; 5. Zar
fame Indians, o1
negroes.
he populatior
to have been grea
ture; and from re
haps four-fifths mz
the difcoverers of
times, in which tl
tants to exceed }
found little more '
difcovered, the wl
ceed 4,000,000, °
fource of exagyet
counted hundreds
troduced by the }
allow that ‘a hurids
rican empire, we
cowardly and unfk
Ettalla has juft
Penn have greatly
he proceeds to ex;
cordance with his
to deny that any
caufes why the p
little care ease
effetual progrefs
fing of the ttreets
the neatnefs of th
other caufes whi¢
the latter viceroys
difeafes will ix ti
It is well know
* From the recent t
perior to that.of Peru,
+ Careriin.1697 «a
iew ew Spain,
1,598,860, the foua
255. "This truly imp
curious example of Ge
3 Viayero, xxvii. 14
work in the mines, Ge
at his will,
SPANISH. DOMINIONS. S75
| wards appeary it'is far lefs*.' "Fhe fmall-pox is remarkably fatal ; and
the black vomit, already ‘mentioned as allied to the yellow fever of the
United States, acts at intervals with the ravages of a peftilence. The
number of priefts, ‘monks, and nuns is alfo injurious to population ;
which, however; appears ‘upon the whole to have greatly increafed. In
1612 the inhabitants of Mexico were computed at 15,000; they are now
140,000 fT. st
"The SE of New Spain is compofed of the fame elements with
the other Spanith colonies.’ ‘There are feven races: 1. Individuals born
in Europe, vulgularly called Gachupines; 2. Creole Spaniards, or whites
of European race born in America; 3. The Metis ( Mefizos), defcen-
dants of whites and’ Indians; 4. Mulattos, defcendants: of whites and
negroess 5. Zambos, defcendants from negroes and Indians; 6. The
fame Indians, or the indigenous copper race; and 7. The African
negroes. ' :.
he population of América, before the European conqueit, appears
to have been greatly exaggerated, as‘ufual in every cafe of the like na-
ture; and from rough calculations, offered even by. claffieal’authors, per-
haps four-fifths may be always dedu€ted. ‘That this is the cafe at leaft with
the difcoverets of new countries, may be judged from our own enlightened
times, in which the Englifh voyagers: to Otaheite fuppofed the inhabi-
tants to exceed 100,000, whien, upon adébual enumeration, there were
found little more than 16,000. ‘It is probable that when America was
difcovered, the whole Pl gi including the Weft Indies, did not ex-
ceed 4,000,000." ‘Befides the ‘ufual miftakes,' there was an additional
fource of exaggeration, as the Spanith conquerors, like knights-errant,
counted hundreds by thoufands ; and the oriental vein of hyperbole, in-
troduced by the Moors; has tainted the early Spanifh authors. If we
allow that 'a huridred or two of Europeans could fubvert a mighty Ames
rican empire, we mufl imagine that its armies were fmall, as well as
cowardly and unfkilful.’ '
Eftalla has juftly obferved, that evén the benevolent: fettlements of,
Penn have greatly diminifked the number of natives in their vicinity ; and
he proceeds to explain the caufes of this déecline, though not in ftridt ac.
cordance with his-former arguments ‘above recited, in which he attempts
to deny that any diminution exifts ¢. He fays that one of the chief
caufes why the population has not augmented in a greater degree, is the
little care formerly taken to avoid epidemical diforders; while latterly
effectual progrefs has been made in this benevolent:purpofe. The clean-
fing of the itreets, the.evacuation of ftanding waters, an exact police,
the neatnefs of the infide of the howfes, perfonal cleanlinefs, an many
other caufes which contribute to health have attracted the attention of
the latter vicetoys ; and it is to be hoped that all the caufes of peftilential
difeafes will im time be remedied.
It ie well known: that the fmall-pox is extremely fatal to the natives of
* From the recent travels of Helins, it appears that the population in Mexico is far fue
petior to that.of Peru, acl
+ Cureri,in.1697 computed them at 100,000. Humbolt, in what he calls a Statiftical
View of New Spain, eftimates the number of ‘inhabitants of the Jntendancy of Mexico at
rsdees, the fquare leagues at 5,927; and the inhabitants of each fquare leagne at
255. “This truly important information he repeats on the margin of 100 pages; and this
curious example of German plilegm isabfurdly copied by the Englith tranflator!
t Viayero, xxvii. 196, The Mi/a nv longer exifts in New Spain, The Indian may
4 in the minew, Ge @hoofe any other labour, or he may pafs from one mine to another
a is will, ‘
America,
$76 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
America, on account of the thicknefs of their fkins, which prevents the
pallage of the noxious matter. This iy appears at confiderable in.
te of time; and_on its la(t appearance fo great attention was’ paid
to ‘the fick, that there perifhed not one-fourth part of the ufual
number. The charity of the Spanith Mexicans {pared no effort ; and {o
great were the contributions, that 70,000 dollars remained after all the
neceffities of the fick had been abundantly ares.
The fame author obferves, ‘that though he has not been able to ac.
quire exaét information concerning the population of New Spain, yet
bs the ‘moft intelligent computations, there are in ‘the Intendancy of
exico 1,200,000 fouls, including 140,e00 for the city. And by the
proportion between this province and the others, as well as by the beit
founded calculations, it may be fuppofed that there are, in all the king.
dom, 3,500,000 inhabitants *.”?
M. Thiery, from the information of a.well informed officer in the
Spanifh government at Vera Cruz, fays, that from Panama to California
and Sonora on the one fide, and from Carthagena to the Mifliffippi on
the other, including a {urface of more than 2,000,000 of {quare leagues,
the actual enumerations did not prefent 1,000;000 of fouls, comprizing -
not only all the Spaniards, but the Indians, mingled races, and negroes +,
This would be truly furprizing, as the population of the Spanith domi.
nions in North America is underftood to be far greater in proportion
than of thofe in the fouthern part of that continent. But upon the whole
there was reafon to believe, after the perhaps porta eftimation of Eftalla,
compared with the on wie diminution afligned by M. Thiery, that
the whole population of the Spanish poffeffions in North America could
in no cafe exceed 3,000,000. But in 1794 the population of New
Spain appeared, from reports made to the viceroy, to be 4,483,520.
In {82% Humboldt eftimates the inhabitants at 5,800,000, and in 1808
at 6,500,000 f.
Anny. he minute account of the Mexican pc lk pic we by
Eftalla, is a truly fin document ; and it may be doubted whether the
publication was ftriétly confiftent with the maxims of nce.
It would appear, fo far as a calculation can be made where the numbers
are not always given, and thofe omitted being fuppofed 3000, that the
troops in New Spain are as follow:
Regulars - - 51982
Militia, &c. . $15923
Garrifons, &c. - 5,686
Total 43191 §
This is certainly a confiderable force; but the local fervices of the
garrifons can fcarcely be difpenfed with; and thofe of 30,000 Spanith
militia, at a time when even the armies of that country are little celebrated,
may be fuppofed enly formidable to favages. The chief reliance would
of courfe be placed in the regulars, who by all accounts are very ill
src prt, Sek i eceeraen etc
be doubted w wh ty of New ‘co
fend into the field 15,000 meas mene This province feems not how.
© Viagero, sxvil. 19. i, 195.
3 P. 5), He deerves litte credit +t
§ Pike computes the regular foree of New Spain at 90,086; The militia, of lite
than the Aborigiges, he eftimates at 139,500.
more confequence
3 ever
ever to fhare tl}
of the others, hz
» who juttly regarc
Revenug. | 7
in a great meafur
» navy 18 alfo that ¢
and commercial |
The revenue whic
by Dr. Robertfor
great expences,
by Spain from. /
one-half muft be i
It has been afferte
only was 2,000,0¢
the Mexican mine:
manes,. that the y
of which the king
it is probable that
lent difcoveries in.
of the whole amou
The tythes of t]
crown, and the.cle:
has fince been alter,
fubjeét.. The tytl
produce 60,000 pe
ule of the king, a
eltimated ; of four ¢
ter, and the other t
the king, three fo
tor the Flares of tl
defective titles, onl
“The svteatedian
* Four corvettes of 19
Pelidewries of North C
peditions to the north-we
f The pe/o fuerte of §
tight fous, ‘or shout 4s, 6
Or fusrteey juft equal @5
«counts, it isto be fu
Mt indibaes that Ets
tobe in hard dolla,
Robertfon's calcrite ‘
3A hind of lettres de nc
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 377
ever to fhare the domeftic difcontents which have appeared in’ fome
of the others, having been generally favoured by the Spanifh monarchs,
. who juttly regard it as the richeft jewel in their crown.
Revenus. | The Spanifh armies in America muft however depend,
in a great meafure, upon the fupplies fent from the parent country: the
. navy 13 alfo that of the parent country ; but there are many guard-fhips,
and commercial veffels, folsly appropriated to the American colonies *.
The revenue which Mexico yields to the Spanifh crown has been fhewn
by Dr. Robertfon to amount to above 1,000,000 fterling, but there are
great expences. By the molt recent account, the total revenue derived
by Spain from America and the Philippines, is 2,700,000l. of which
one-half muft be dedusted for the extravagant charges of adminiftration;
It; has been afferted, that the king’s fifth of the mines of New Spain
only was 2,000,000 {terling, which would {well the annual produce of
the Mexican mines to 10,000,000. Dr. Robertfon thews, from Campo-
manes, that the whole produce of the American mines jg 7:425,000l.,
of which the king’s fifth, if regularly paid, would be 1,485,000l.5 and
it is probable that the mines of New Spain or Mexico, prior to the opu-
lent difcoveries in the north-weft provinces, did not yield above one-half
of the whole amount +.
The tythes of the cathedral churches at firft belonged entirely to the
crown, and theclergy were paid from the_royal treafury ; but this plan
has fince been altered. It is unneceflary to enter into the details on this
fubjeét.. The tythes of Panuco, New Leon, and Arifpe, in Sonora,
produce 60,000 pefis. In other provinces the ninths are deducted for the
ufe of the king, and valued at 190,000 pefos. Thefe ninths are thus
elimated : .of four equal parts, two are allotted for the bifhop and chaps
ter, and the other two are divided into nine portions, namely, two for
the king, three for building and repairing the church and hofpital, two
tor the Tacies of the curates, and the two remaining are difpofed by the
chapter in paying dignitaries, canons, prebends, and other perfons em-
ployed in the church, The annates, paid by ecclefiaflies in the royal
nomination, ‘are of half a year’s revenue ; but the fmaller livings, which
do not exceed 413 pefos four reals, only pay a month. This branch
cleats 65,000 pefor. ‘That’on the archbifhoprice and bifhoprics is uncer-
tain, and ot rare occurrence. It was propofed to raife fix per cent. on
all ecclefiattical benefices.
\ Civil officers pay half a year's falary, which is alike demanded on
any advancement or augmentation. This tax might clear 68,949 p:/os.
It is joined with that of the titles of Caltillet, which yields 13,660.
The fale of offices produces 30,000; that of lands andigompofition for
defective titles, only 2,500.
“The extraordinary fondnefs of the natives for cock-fighting gave rife
eens ers PrP sede se mtn c
ee ne ae eT ee NIT ak ER RN Re aN RN ee ee an nets
* Four corvertes of 12 guns, and one goletta, are ftationed at Monterey, to fupply the
pefidencies of North Califurnia with neceflarics, Thefe veffels performed the Spanith exe
peditions to the north-weft coaft of America. La Peroufe, ii, 207,
+ The pefo fuerte of Spain, called pia/tre forte, is worth from five francs to five france
eight fous, or about 4s. Gd. but that of commerce fp ideal, and is only worth three lired
five fous of France, equal to thirty-two and a half; pester: A oo Pag pefos duros;
or fugrtesy jut equal 05 de cambia. As the latter are y ufed in commerce und
tcounts, it isto be fu they are here intended: but fee a paifage in the article poyis,
wiih pry rod og = a om the , — se ” ata eo in his
» are to ty. rgoing jonial aceounts
dollars. are. alwa\s in hard dollars, as eppeare frem Humboldt and Dr.
$A kind of lettres de nolleffe.
Pp to
598 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
to a formal eftablifhment in favour of this diverfion, according to oxr
author, much more rational than-bull fights, whence a revenue to the
royal treafury of not lefs than $0,000 pefos ; and in order to increafe
this advantage, a hall or theatre was conitruéted in the village of San
Augutftin de las Cuevas, much frequented by the citizens of Mexico
during Eafter. This building coft 6,838 pc/os; and in two years and |
eight months had yielded 3,740 pe/os.””
A tax on leather was impoied by defire of the fhoemakers. Snow an@
ice are monopolized in Mexico and ether chief towns of New Spain;
the produ&t is about 30,000 pefos. That of itamped paper clears 6o;000:
‘all the copper produced in the mines of this viceroyalty is bought
on the king’s account, and depofited in the royal magazines, whence
i is fent to the mint, or fold to artizans and others: but the gain
is only 1,600 ‘i That on lead is only five per cent. amountin
to about 80 dollars a year; while the tenth of alum is 4,446. « i
“mime of tin, which is wrought near Durango, pays ten per cent. being
380 pefos.’
; Oe cluntery donations, chiefly given by the loyalty of the Mexicans,
according to circumftances. wines 7 eo Pe the latt ~
againit Frarice amounted to 591,710 pe/os ; of which 98,699 were annua
date the continuance of hfe, Pore fam would have been greater
if the donation had not been preceded by a loan to the fovereign, with-
@ut any intereft, of 3,967,000 pe/os. ;
The cufloms and other taxes payable at Vera Cruz are too minute and
lix to deferve infertion ; and there are fome other provincial duties in
the like predicament. There is a tax of nine pefos upon each negro
brought to the port of Campeche; and it were well if every government
raifed a high tax upon this traffic. A fthip of the Philippines pays at
Acapulco 2000 pefos. The duties payable at the garrifon of Carmen
(probably that at the mouth of the er aes of Terminos, but there is
alfo an ifle fu called in the gulf of California) amount to 220 pe/as only,
The pearl fifhery of California formerly yielded a confiderable revenue,
but it is at prefent abandoned, though with hopes of its fpeedy revival.
The whole revenue appears to have been about 1,500,000l. fterling.
POLITICAL wee ype The political impostance of colonies is of
courfe merged in that of the parent country. If the {pirit of bigotry
could be fupprefied, which neglects every worldly concern, and if the
Spanifh colonies were thrown open to the induftry and enterprife of fo-
reigners, they might recover from their enfeebled ftate, and oppofe a
d front to any invaders. In the prefent fituation of affairt, perhapl
found policy wagld éven dictate their emancipation, on condition of Pay.
ing an annual tribute, which might even be more confiderable than
t revenue, from the fuppreffion of ufelefs offices and emoluments,
and the extortion of powerful individuals, which yields nothing to the
revenues of Spain*. Dr. Robertfon has obferved that the Mexican ga-
zettes are filled with defcriptions of religious proceffions, and edifying
accounts of the 8 of churches, feftivals, and beatifications of
faints, and other fuperftitious baubles, while civil and commercial affain
occupy little attention. The ‘advertifements of new books fhew tha
two-thirds are treatifes of {cholaftic theology and rhonkith devotion.
Even thio ftate of affaire is better than the fanguinary idolatry of the
® In 1797 the Count de Galvez was proclaimed king in the ftreets of Mexico) but his
lay inde him to quath the infurretion. The reward was that le was poifoned foon
ing regarded as too powertul for afubjedt, Pike.
si = _ natives:
Patis, 1604, Byo,
,
natives: bu
fuch fanatic
{pirit would
and that if
will, at the
New Spa
the only ne
important p
The rema
ferve fome a
the frontier y
in fudden iny
retire to the
them. For.
provinces fub
thofe that are
make war in |
“The fitu
There is no h
by a caftle anc
vent any {qua
“ On the fi
take a formal
time, not ton
would be an j
of the immenf
ble, through {
then proceeds
M. sh enc
mere forgery.
This ean
the United Stz
exertions, and ¢
war between
Louifiana, mig
wanting water,
ment would be
The chief diffi¢
rave militia we
r this diftant
land, and their
too eafy wealth,
object, the cult
towards the Pag
conteft became
States were on
fend a {ufficient
being in the m
open a grand: ca
mand a Prodigic
the prefident of
* Etalla, xxvii, 9
t Frangois De
, SPANISH DOMINIONS.
5%
natives : but few exertions of ability or induftry can be expected from
fuch fanatics ; and it may eafily be predifted that a continuance of this
fpirit would render the people as unfit for war as for pacific enterprizes ;
and that if Spain do not amend her colonial fyftem, her rich poffeffions
will, at the firft onfet, become a prey to their northern neighbours,
New Spain is in a {tate ‘of military dependence on Havana, which is
the only neighbouring port that can receive {quadrons, and is the moft
important point for the defence of the eaftern coaft of New Spain.
The remarks of a late Spanifh author on this important fubjeé&t de.”
ferve fome attention *, ‘* ‘The mode of making war with the favages on
the frontier provinces is very different from that of Europe, as it confifts
in f{udden invafions of the Jndios bravos, or wild natives, after which they
retire to the interior of their country, where it is very difficult to pyrfue
them. For this purpofe there are light companies, as well in the three
provinces fubje& ta the vicerayalty, (chat is, the three audiences,) as ip
thofe that are independent ; but peace is always preferred, and we only
make war in cgnfequence of their invafions.
4¢The fituation of New Spain fecures it from any foreign invafion.
There is no haven an the eaft fave that of Vera Cruz, ftrongly defended
by acaftle and fortifications, and itill more by the north winds, which pre-
vent any {quadron from remaining maa el the coaft.
«© On the fide of the Pacific Ocean there is no nation that would under-
take a formal expedition, on account of the great expence and wafte of
time, not to mention the hazards of the paffage. Still more impoffible
would be an invafion by the province of T'exas; becaufe, not to fpeak
of the immenfe diftance, the paflage of an army woyld be found impofli-
ble, through fo difficult a country, void of means of fubfiftence,"" He
then proceeds to mention the want of water, and the difficulties which
M. Pagés encountered, without hinting a fufpicion that his journey is a
mere forgery.
This worthy patriot thus affects to conceal the chief danger, that from
the United States, though he {peaks in juft terms of admiration of their
exertions, and of the f{pirit and talerits of the inhabitants. The rumoured
war between Spain and the Sgates, on account of the boundaries of
Louifiana, might foon reveal that the province of Texas, inftead of
wanting water, fuffers from jte abundance, and perhaps the fole impedi-
ment would be to diftinguifh the marthes from the verdant meadows,
The chief difficulty would be for the States tg find troops, for their
rave militia would uct eafily,be induced to quit their homes and families
or this diftant warfare ; — as the States have already too much
land, and their wifdom would perceive that the acquifition of mines, ang
too eafy wealth, at this period, might obftrué a far more important
object, the cultivation of their own territory, and ites gradual extenfion
towards the Pacific, fo as to command the Fait India trade, But if the
conteft became ferious ; if the honour and latting advantage of the United
States were once fuppofed to be implicated, they could by one effort
fend a {ufficient force to feize the whole empire of Mexico, the difficult
being in the march, and not in the battle; and after an eafy promt
open a grand: canal between the Atlantic and Pacific Ogeans, dnd come
mand a prodigious commerce.* Let me not however be again accufed b
the prefident of the Freuch fenate ¢ of withing to excite wars among a
¢ Eftalla, wxvii. 918.
+ Francois De Neutchatesu, Tebleau des vues que fe propofe la Politique Angilai/e,
Paris, 1604, Syo,
Ppa natians,
sho SPANISH DOMINIONS..
nations, becaufe the nature of my work required fome pctitical remarks
in the event, alas4 toe natural, that neighbouring nations fhould fome.
times enter into hoftilities. No: could my humble whifper command
attention, peace and amity would encircle the globe ; and nations fhould
only be rivals in the arts, the fciences, and general bencficence,
CHAPTER III.
CIVIL GEOGRAPIIY.
Manuers and Cuftoms. — Language. — Education. — Cii::s and Towns, ~
: Edifices. — Manufaétures.and Commerce.
i 7EXHE manners of the ancient Mexica
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. ] T have been defcribed by many hg
thors, but a few fingularities may be here mentioned. A pectiliar fea.
ture of the Mavi hnjraigs was, that a termination, indicating refpedt,
might be added to every word. Thus, in {peaking to an equal, the
word father was fat/, but to a fuperior fatzin. They had alfo reverential
verbs, as appears from Aldama’s Mexican grammar. Thus, as cowards
are always cruel, the moit ferocious people in the world were at the fame
time alfo the moft fervile and obfequious. Their wars were conttant and
fanguinary ; and their manners in general correfponded with this barba.
rous Cifpofition, the principal warriors covering themfelves with the fkins
of the facrificed victims, and dancing through the ftreets*. The year
was divided into 18 months, each of 28 days ; and five days were added,
which were dedicated to feftivity.. They cultivated maize and fome roots;
but their agriculture was rude, and they were ftrangers to the ufe of
money. (hn the death of a chief, a great number of his attendants were
facrificed.
But fince the progrefs of Chriftianity,“and the long eftablifliment of
a foreign yoke, the manners have become more mild and amiable. So
‘extremely attached are they to games,of chance, that they will even
pledge their own perfons, as Tacitus reports of the ancient Germans;
and the Spaniards make ufe of this infatuation to inveigle recruits for
the Philippines, where they often difplay great valour +. They alfo
fometimes pledge their perfons for a debt, and labour in the public
. works until it be defrayed. As nourifhmgnt is cheap, and labour dear,
they will'in other cafes gain enough in two duys to fupport them for the
week, whence they fall into drunkennefe and other excefles, which our
author afcribes to the want of education; whence alfo their impudence,
and difpofition to petty thefts, in which they are very dextrous. It is
to be regretted that education is not beftowed, for they have a natural
talent. for many arts, working in wax, ivory, and glafs, orrather earthen-
ware, with great fkill; but as they do not make previous models, nor
know the es of defign, nothing is perfectly finifhed. When the
academy of the Three Noble Arts was edablithed, an Indian prefented
a fcull, which neither by the fight, touch, nor weight, could be diftin.
guithed from nature,’and yet it was woot Thofe who have receiveds
© The «refs ween loofe cloak and a fath girt round the naked waift, From the ancien
paintings it a that the under lip was pierced, to receive an ornament of gold. ‘This
Pion Pervute and ochera heve obferved ots the north-weft eoaft of Ametics.
Eftalla, xxvi, 995, : j
little
little education b
or petty mugiftra
for their fill in x
which is the fame
M. Thiery, wh
of his interefting
Oaxaca, or about
gives triking pid
ndians have a m
fcourges in the h
cakes of maize, ca
duty of the femal
chillé, a kind of £
taumates, or love.
which is alfo ufed
of woodmen. Th
or agave American,
are three and four
for thread and clo
afparagus, while th
balfam, honey. A
head is taken off,
two or three Fren
following day and 1
the cavity, is withe
plant be exhautted ;
new crop. Such |
pleafant to an Eure
capable of being cla
e rude pyram
which are frequent
fepulchres: of difting
ble the glacieres of |
raifed for preferving
finple plan, are alfd
women are fometim
fafhion of this’ hot
Mexican language,
whifper, in which t
be ditinguithed,
As the firft ‘colon
according to Eftalla
tilian ; and the men,
fability, not agreeab)
Celves a vifit the afks
do?” & how ig you
though they May not
tlemen meet, if ‘the c
“you are my all ;’* ¢
men fay, * you are
* Voyage, Cape Fran
t+ The pulque j
diagrenble eedavervus f
3 He adds, thas when
to, hofta luegen,
,
Seek
" SPANISH DOMINIONS. 58
tittle education become honeft and decent, and are often named Alcaids,
or petty full in the villages. The Indians are alfo remarkable
for their fkill in preparing and ftaining the fkins of the cidolo, or ta/ugo,
which is the fame as the bifon, or wild buffalo.
'M. Thiery, who has painted with a free and lively pencil the incidents
of his interefting journey from Vera Cruz to Orizava, and thence to
Oaxaca, or about 350 Britifh miles, in the empire of Mexico, often
ives ftriking pictures of the national manners *. He obferves that the
Pidians have a marked averfion to the negroes, whom they regard as
fourges in the hands of their mafters. Their chief food confifts in:
cakes of’ maize, called tordillas, which, as they are eaten hot, it is a chief
duty of the females to prepare. They are often accompanied with
thillé, a kind of fauce, compofed of pimento and /yco-perficon, that is,
taumates, or love-apples, pounded together with falt and water, and
which is alfo ufed with meat and fifh. Their little huts refemble thofe
of woodmen. The univerfal drink is pulgue, drawn from the maguey,
or avave Americana, which is to them of infinite ufe; the leaves, which
are three and four feet in length, ferving as tiles, while the fibres ferve
for thread and cloaths, the ftem as beams, and the young {prouts as
afparagus, while the jnice fupplies them with water, wine, vinegar, acid,
balfam, honey. An incifion being made to the heast of the plant, the
head is taken off, and a cavity formed in the trunk, fufficient to hold
two or three French pints, ‘The top is then replaced, and during the
following day and night the fap tranfudes from the young leaves into
the cavity, is withdrawn the following day, and afterwards until the
plant be exhautted and perifhes, when the buds are planted to fecure a
new crop. Such is the origin of this noted beverage, which is not j
pleafant to an European eye, as being of adirty white colour, and ine
capable of being clarified +.
The rude pyramids, fometimes 40 feet in height, on a bafe of 20,
which are frequent in the Mexican dominions, i to have ferved as
fepulchres: of diftinguifhed chiefs. Thiery fays, that they much refem-
ble the glacieres of France or St. Domingo, a kind of rude hovels,
raifed for preferving ice. Baths for the fick, conftru@ted on a very
fimple plan, are alfo not ‘uncommon near the fountains. The Indian
women are fometimes extremely beautiful, and drefs in the Spanith
fathion of this’ hot country, that is, in a fhift and petticoat. The
Mexican language, which they continue to f{peak, feems a nerpetual
vhifper, in which the liquid / and the e¢ are almoft the only {s..48 to
be diftinguifhed.
As the firft ‘colonifts were chiefly Andalufians, the Spanith language,
according to Eftalla, is fpoken with an acrent not agreeable to a Caf.
tilian; and the men, as well as the women, have a kind of fawning af.
fability, not agreeable to Caftilian pride. When a Mexican lady re.
ceives a vifit fhe afks a long roll of queftions all at once; * haw do you
do?” ** how is your health?’ ‘‘ how were you the other day?” al-
though they may not have feen each other for months. When two gen
tlemen meet, if the one-feel himfelf inferior, it is « you are my lord ;”
“you are my all ;’ or even, ‘ you are my great lord ;"’ while the wo-
men fay, * you are all my defiret.”” The Spanith language is much
* Voyage, Fra Se. Domingo), 1787, @ vole. éva,
t The at a nay cocina ween It fomewhat referdhles cyder, but has a very
se Pager a ga o {mell, trae! ig might pasha remove, Mi hate
() nas (ak )
eae oe re TR i
Pp 3 corrupted
apd rockets, .is os age as they’are played off all days in the year,
582 SPANISH DOMINIONS:
corrupted in this country, an infinity of foreign expreffions havitie been
adopted, and a new acceptation given to many words and expreflions
nay, there is even a mixture of the Mexican. ‘This lait might have en.
riched the language, new words being neceffary for new objects ; but in
moft cafes they are merely adopted from ignorance or affectation, Hence
to a Spaniard fome writings become more obfcure than if they were in
a foreign tongue; and if Spanifh fchools were not eftablifhed, the lan.
guage ts as diftinét as the Portuguefe; and they affed to
ridicule thofe who do not underftand their diale&t, of the impropriety of
which Eftalla gives feveral examples, Even their authors cannot ad;
vance in the direct road to the temple of fame, but ftray into thickets,
‘ and devious paths of quaint expreffion, where they often lofe their
health and reputation. They alfo often die of bombaft and obfcurity ;
and a work called a Contiauation of the Hiilory of Solis might be te.
garded as the very quinteffence of extravagance and pedantry.
Thefe faults, fays our author, difappear on the view of their exten.
five charity, of ‘their burning devotion, and of their love to their fove.
reign. On occafions of epidemic diforders, and other public calamities,
their beneficence is evident. The charitable eftablifhments, and works
of piety would do honour to the parent country. Their devotion and
zeal in the divine fervice muft be feen, he adds, to be believed ;: and their
loyalty is confpicuous in their free donations upon any ublic emergency,
Some little habite may alfo deferve mentiom All the Mexican iadies
{moke tobacco, in little cigars of paper, which they take from a cafe
of gold or filver, hanging by a chain-or ribbon, while on the other fide
they wear little pincers of the fame metal, Continually occupied in
this amufement, as foon as one cigar is exhaufted another is lighted;
they only ceafe to fmoke when they eat or fleep, and even light a cigar
when they bid you'a good night. You may imagine, fays our author,
how ridiculous and difagreeable even a pretty woman becomes, with the
eternal cigar in her mouth; how richly flavoured her breath mutt. be;
and how much her health and complexion are vitiated by this indecent
and filthy cuftom. Girls never fmoke in the prefence of their fathers ; nor
are the latter fuppofed to know that they fmoke, though they give them
money to buy, cigars. . This affeftation of ignorance is truly diverting:
when a mother wants tobacco, fhe fays to her daughter, ‘ give me the
cigars which I gave you to keep,’’ knowing that the has given none;
but with falfehood and diflimulation pretending to fave appearances of
refpe&t.. The girls, who do not fear their mothers upou much more
important occafions, are fo circum{peét’ in this chief bufinefs of their
lives, that if the mother enter the room, the cigar is inftantly hidden,
becaufe it would be very unpolite to fmoke before the manita, for fo they
call their mothers; while the father is ftyled satita, a name alfo given in
fondnefs to.any man whom they efteem, ¢atita {uch a one being the phy-
ian, or any other perfon of great and immediate confidence. In
another place he obferves that the girls addrefs their mothers by thoy
while. the.latter call: them fers, as exprefling greater tendernefs, but in
fa& that may avoid the appearahce of age.
: ages of scandanen confumed. in ewaiki, or rather {quibs
except holy Thurfday and Friday. The continual noife of bells is alfo
horrible, as on the {malleft occafion one is deafened every hour 5 but it is
faid that this infernal clamour is‘on the decline. at
They are extremely fond of gaming, and affe€t fupreme indifference
nd chearfulnefs whien they lofe. A fellow enters a gaming ates) pro»
ced
having taken the
daces 10 or 20
tle, lays them
duces a cigar fr
had happened,
exercife with my
as ufual, to thof
completed his ru
family. A pro
and fifes, to the
lates application
the relations.
or voice, all, ex
he retufe them
common people
ages having been
as innocent ftimu
the fongs diffona
ferious dances are
with thofe of th
day of All-faints
keepers ftyled of
and {weet-meats
On other folemn «
city, which are ,
nfiderable inven:
upe, near Mex
provinces, and mu
obferve the feltiva’
there are medals e1
' In the defcript
other feftivals the
to follow the trad
number of chaplai
They ftudied in ¢
with the warm ap
pielt day of thei
nun, At prefent
leave their country
courts, and afpird
tary: nay, the wa
and leave their co
repeats, have the h
education be negl
worthy of the nat
In this happy ¢
female fex, which
age of thirty, efp
ie as aged as i
Ing totally faded
more the thocking
in the morning the
another breakfatt
)
}
1
;
t
’
H
t
r
n
t
e
& =rnww
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 583
daces 10 or 20 dollars, which had been tied up in a corner of his mam-
tle, lays them on a card, lofes them ; and, without faying a word, pro-
duces a cigar from behind his ear, lights it, and walks out, as if nothing
had happened, The men eafily aflume a military air, and learn their
weataile with much facility ; but the foldiers of the villages are fuperior,
as ufual, to thofe drawn from the lees of the capital. When a boy has
completed his rudiments, it is a day of rejoicing for the {chool and the
family. A proceffion is formed from the fchool, with ftandand, drums
and fifes, to the houfe of the parents. The mafters fay that this itimu.-
lates application, but they rather wifh to. profit by the foolifh vanity of
the relations. When any youth pleafes in a ball, by his dancing, mufic,
or voice, all, even the ladies, give him what is called the gala; nor can
he refufe them without affronting the aflembly. The dances of the
common people are very wanton; even the moft modeft dances, in all
ages having been regarded as facred tu love, or preparatory to manriage,
as innocent {timulants of the natural propenfities of the fexes: nor are
the fongs diffonant from the indecent movements. In fuperior houfes
ferious dances are ufual; but for the fake of variety they are mingled
with thofe of the country, as in Spain with the volero. The eve and
day of tAll-faints there are yreat crowds at the doors of the fhop-
keepers ftyled of Chrift, both on foot and in carriages, to buy toys
and {weet-meats for children, in both which the Mexicans excel.
On other felemn days there are great affemblies, in different parts of the
city, which are decorated with illuminations, and other ornaments of
niiderable invention. At the Indian fedtival in the fan&tuary of Gua-
Fite near Mexico, an immenfe maltitude appears, even from diftant
provinces, and much drunkennefs and diforder enfue: but the Spaniards
obferve the feitival in great devotion to that celebrated image, of which
there are medals engraved by the celebrated Don Geronimo Gil.
- In the defcription of the city of Mexice, fome idea will be given of
other feftivals there ce'ebrated. The citizens were formerly contented
to follow the trade of their fathers, or to obtain fome chaplaincy, the
number of chaplains being infinite, and often with confider falaries *.
They ftudied in the univerfity of Mexico, and vegetated in that city,
with the warm approbation of their parents, who thought it the hap.
pieft day of their lives when a fon became a priefty or a daughter a
nun, At prefent matters are happily a little ghanged ; many Mexicans
leave their country to vifit the Peninfula, anew name for Spain, orto view
courte, and afpire to all employments political, ecclefiaftic and mili.
tary: nay, the women willingly wed minifters, officers, and merchants,
and leave their country with pleafure. The Creols, as our author here
repeats, have the happieft difpolitions for all the arts and {ciences, though
edacation be neglected, and the method of ftudy be far from being
Ke of = sg oo talents. ae i fpecially in the
n this happy climate nature anticipates rights, efpeci int
female fex, atten of courfe is fooner Prbaufted ps in Stain, At the
age of thirty, efpscially if they have borne fome children, women ap.
as aged as in Spain at fifty s the teeth falling out, and the face
ing totally faded. ‘The climate no doubt contributes to thie; but ftill
more the fhocking plan of diet. The whole day is employed in eating :
in the morning they take chocolate ; breakfaft at nines take an once, or
another breakfaft at eleven; and foon after noon dine. After
having taken the /icfa, or day fleep, they return to their chocolate,
®@ Eftgila, xxvi, 902.
Pp4 which
eer mt ie BA ages
584 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
which is fucceeded by an afternoon's luncheon, more chacolate, and q
confiderable fupper. A ftill greater abfurdity is, that you can only
acknowledge the goodnefs of your dinner, or fupper, with the tears
in your eyes. A meal at which no one cricd would be regarded as good
for nothing, a great delight of the ladies being to fhed tears all the time;
fuch is the force or quantity of the chile, or pimento, with which the
feafon every difh, a dainty no lefs difguiting than prejudicial to health,
To thefe exceffes in food may be added the infamous prattice of
{moking ; fo that it is not ftrange that in a few years the women be.
come decrepid, and that they fuffer greatly from defluxions*. ‘It may
be matter of furprife that the influence of the more powerful fex does
not prevent thefe diforders, by authority, negle&t, or contempt ; but it
mutt be confidered, that in Spain itfelf, fo much is the character debafed,
that the politenefs of the men has reduced them to abfolute cyphers;
and fo fevere is nature, that wherever females obtain the afcendancy,
they not only work political ruin, of which regal France affords a dif.
altrous example, but. their own degradation and calamity, while their
happinefs totally depends on the fuperior judgment and equanimity of
. their partners.
The Mexican ladies prefer the Spaniards, whom they call Gacupinés ts
to the Creols; and have reafon on their fide, becaufe the former are more
conftant aad generous, and give them all forts of pleafures and diver.
fions; while the Creols, born to abundance, inheriting property with
out labour, commonly wafte it in a few years, though they bear the
misfortune with indifference ; whence the proverbial faying concerning
the Crevls, ‘*the father a merchant, the fon a knight, the grandfon a
beggar.’?.
. The women in general are moderate in their apparel: a laced veil
defcends to the feet, the manufacture of the country, and cofting from
80 to 100 dollars. The ba/quina, or large upper petticoat, alfo defcends
very low; and the fhoes are always neat, fometimes rich. ‘When they
are at home, or go out in a carriage, they wear what is called the rebozo,
or muffler, like the.fhawls now ufed at Madrid. They do not now load
therfelves with thofe coftly gowns called metallic, becaufe they were of
a gold or filver tiffue, fo ftout as to ftand upright ; bit in their place
have adopted the prefent fathions of Spain, which have the double ad.
vantage of coiting far lefs, and of giving more grace and a more gay
air to the fair fex. Yet the Mexican women are oftentatious of wealth,
in. the quantity of their diamonds, and the fize of their pearls, as may
be obferved in their balls and ¥ettivals. The drefs of the men has alfo
undergone. the fume change ; and there is little difference in this refpec
between ‘them and thofe of Spain, though the houfes boaft greater
wealth in filver images of faints, cornucopias, chandeliers and other
furniture.
. The men of the lower clafs, whether whites, or of whatever other cait,
© Our author adds, that when this is the cafe, the ladics wear a fmall handkerchief pinned
to one fide of their head drefs, which they call Larbiquejos and during another period pes
culiar to the fex, they faften over the forehead a bahdkerchief, commonly black, which is
called pena. net
"> Perhaps from gachon, a fpoiled chiki,
Humbolde afferts, p, 135, that the defcendants of negroes and female Indians, beat
at Mexico, Lima, and even at Havana the add appellation of Chino, or Chinefe, Eitaile
fays with more probability that this name is given to. the natives of the Philippine Iflands
who fojourn or feule in New Spain, in confequence of the great jutercourle by the port of
Acapulco, :
were
were all, a few y
except drawers ;
chamber, -and ey
covered with a
thirds of the inh
effectual regulati
this clafs, who-a
be decently clot!
it was common t
remained but the
no reflection on't
ments of the rick
yernment, while ;
of the middle «
talents of fociet;
poor.
The frequent |
the climate being
tary again{t the
Mexico a great |
ufed by the ancie
police fhould int
ealily fupplied b
various climates ;
being fo falutary
to be more fubje¢
Lancuace. }
have been publi
tained in Europ
Peruvian, ‘The
prifing and unpri
guage of the B
les; but ftrong
i as the (
exican tongue
fpe& only, thou;
the Peruvian ; ex
the x, a mere dif
perior and more
verbs be of extre:
the Mexican with
dotus. Some of
fitted of hymns,
kind of dramas ;
have been fuperia
The number o
above twenty; a
oe iona
and Tepehuana, |
cedo and Eftalla,
leéts, but: are. as
This infinity of
y embarraff
anguage, or Me:
37°) to the lake’
SPANISH DOMINIONS. $85
were all, a few years ago, wrapt up in mantles, without any other drefs,
except drawers and a.little hat. This drefs ferved them for ftreet and
chamber, -and even for bed, which was merely @ raifed part of the room,
covered with a mat called petate. The greater part, compofing two- ,
thirds of the inhabitants, had no other articles whatever. But latterly
effectual regulations have been made to prevent the indecent nakednefs of
this clafs, who-are forbidden to enter various public places, except they
be decently clothed, fo that this evil begins to be remedied. Formerly
it was common to fee them drop their mantle after mafs, fo that nothing
remained but the drawers. It is furprifing that our author fhould make
go refleGtion on’'this fingularity, after having depifted the exceffive orna-
ments of the rich; as there cannot be a more {triking fign of a Bad gos
vernment, while a profperous nation may eafily be known by the numbers
of the middle clafs, m which are chiefly centered the wifdom and
talents of fociety, and by the decent and comfortable appearance of the
oor.
The frequent ufe of the bath partly atones for the want of linen; and
the climate being dry and warm, renders this cuftom agreeable, and falu-
tary againft the maladies occafioned by that deficiency. There are at
Mexico a great number of baths, and temafcales, a kind of fteam baths
ufed by the ancient natives ; but the bett order does not prevail, and the
police fhould interfere. This want of linen might certainly have been
eally fupplied by an induftrious people, in fo wide a territory of fuch
various climates ; and even the ufe of fine cotton next the fkin is far from
being fo falutary as that of linen, the nations who ufe it being obferved
to be more fubjeé& to inflammatory and cutaneous diforders.
Lancuaae.} Of the Mexican language grammars and dictionaries
have been publifhed in the country; and from the few fpecimens con-
tained in European. publications it appears to differ’ radically from the
Peruvian, ‘The words frequently end in #/; and are befides of a fur-
prifing and unpronounceable length, refembling in this refpe& the lan-
guage of the lavages in North America, and fome of the African dia-
lets; but ftrongly contrafted with thofe of Afia, in which the moft
olifhed, as the Chinefe, are monofyllabic., According to Clavigero the
Mexican tongue wants the confonants 4, d, f, g, r, and s3;.in which ree
fpe& only, though unobferved by that author, it ftri€tly coincides with
the Peruvian ; except that the latter, inftead of the s, 1s faid to want
the z, a mere difference of enunciation. But the Peruvian is a far fu.
perior and more pleafing language, though fome modifications of the
verbs be of extreme length. ‘he wild enthufiafm of Clavigero compares
the Mexican with the Latin and Greek ; though as like, as he to Hero.
dotus. Some of the words are of fixteen fyllubles. Their poetry con-
fitted of hymns, and of heroic and amatory ballads. They had alfo a
kind of dramas; but from the fpecimen produced they do not feem to
have been fuperior to thofe of Otaheite.
The number of languages in New Spain by Humboldt’s account is
above twenty ; and of fourteen there are already pretty complete gram-
mars and dictionaries. Among them he enumerates thofe of: ‘Turaumara,
and Tepehuana, claffed among the large provinces of the north by Al-
cedo and Eftalla. By his account thefe numerous languages’are not dia-
lets, but: areas radically different as the French from the Polonefe.
This infinity of original languages in South and North America has
y embarrafled thofe who are fond of {uch refearches. The Azlec
anguage, or Mexican, is the moft widely diffufed, extending from lat.
37° to the lake of Nicaragua, a length of 400 leagues. This language
bd
fa ie crntantenconren saree . al . ,
7 ; a 2 see eae eae nese penne oe. ee eres o
+ seth phnaee mame ene
band. ES
586 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
is rather harfh, and the length of the words often difagreeable ; hay
in {peaking to their curates the Mexicans employ a word of 27 letters,
Notlazomahuizleopixcatatzin, which fignifies ** venerable prieft, whom I
cherifh as my father.’’ ,
The natives of New Spain have the general refemblance of thofe of
Canada, Florida, Peru, and Brazil, the copper colour, flat and lank
hair, little beard, fquat body, th eye, the corner raifed towards the
temple *, round cheek bone, thick lips, and in the mouth an expreffion
of mildnefs, contrafting with a dark and ftern eye +.
Literature. } Evtalla has obferved, as above mentioned, the defeds
of literature in this opulent viceroyalty. A Mexican guide has lately
been publifhed in the city, a prodigious exertion: but the Mexican ga.
vette yields. greatly to that of Guatimala, which, according to Dpr,
Barton, fometimes prefents interefting memoirs on the antiquities and
natural hiftory of the country. Some pamphlets on. Mexican antiquities
have alfo appeared ; and botany begins to be ftudied; there has been even
recently publifhed a work on mineralogy, digefted according to the {yftem
of Werner. Thefe are, no doubt, favourable appearances; but why
fhould this wide empire, with fo confiderable a population, be a century
or more behind the United States? The Spaniards are confeffedly a peo.
ple equally folid and ingenious; and the only poffible obftacles mutt be
fought in the inquifition, and that degrading fanatici{m maintained by the
avaricious preponderance of the clergy.
The Teatro Americano of Villafenor, publifhed in two volumes folio,
1746, may, with all its defects, be regarded as the chief folid monument
of Mexican literature. But two-thirds of this ufeful work, which dif.
plays a detailed chorography of the provinces of New Spain, are occu.
ied with the moft prolix documents concerning the clergy and religious
orindationh wholly uninterefting except to their own order: nay, the com.
pilation of Alcedo, printed at Madrid 1787, after prefenting catalogues
and fhort accounts of the viceroys and governors of the feveral provinces,
often ufeful to hfftory and geography, is loaded with fimilar details con.
cerning archbifhops and bithops, of no utility in any branch of fcience,
A rational chriftian, converfant in the precepts of the gofpel, above all
the humility and {clf-denial that are inculcated as the very effence and
being of religion, will be aftonifhed and afflifted at the deep depravity
of human nature, which can convert fuch a beautiful fyftem of practical
morality into a perfdious inftrument of avarice and extortion, pride and
oftentation. And while the very teachers are thus loft to.all fenfe of pro-
priety, decency, and thame, as not only to load themfelves with wealth
and honours, generally at the very expence of the poor, for whom the
foundations were originally endowed, But to publith {plendid defcriptions
of their ufurpations, need, we wonder that, by the confeffion of the
Spanifh authors, the favages become more corrupt and immoral, in pro- |
portion as this new-fathioned fyftem of pretended chriftianity makes any
progrefs? Nor can it pars e learned reader that, as in the times of
chivalry, all wars‘were wholly condudted at the expence of the king and
the barons, except on extraordinary emergencies, whea a fublidy was
raifed on the merchants, and other perfons in eafy circumstances, by the
only poor tax was, fo to {peak, levied on the clergy, whofe rich revenues
had been mercly affigned, by the pious donors, im fi t of the poor;
and it is weil known that it was the fuppreffion of religious houfes, and
a part of the wealth of the prelates and. dignitaries, which introduced the
© This is new and very doubtful, + Hwab. 61, 92,
poor
full enjoymeat of
poor tax into Eng)
religious orders ar
wl the poor, w
cloaths to cover th
the only difciples «
of the globe in a t
that they may rol
tioned. Such ref
plorable ftate of
opulent empire, bi
habitants,
UNIVERSITIES J
ferve the name, is
and other literary |
The univerfity of
cal; and the cloifle
except the facult
yearly by the lef
counfellors, chofer
of chancellor is ani
his office being to
cations he hols th
lafox, and the met
and fimilar to tha’
glorious darknefs *
The chairs or
Scripture, St. Th
by the holy ordes
canons, the vefpe:
In inedicine fix.
a cathedralift of bo
In philofophy two
another for the Ot
ufeful in the conver
At fir all the
that the candidates
aay: are nam
ifhop, in whofe p
the dean of the ca
fity, the mafter of
of theolegy, and ti
The public lib
and is well furnith
the claflics, or ne
vain; becaufe, fay
patron. A inark of th
pomp from the balcony
probably old
wf they lend fpum
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 569
gor tax into England after the Reformation. But the Spanifh clergy and
selon orders are wallowing in gluttony, luxury, and voluptuoulnefs 5
while the poor, whom they have defpoiled, have not, as we hay
cloaths to cover their nudity. Yet thefe are the men who preteg
the only difciples of the Father of Light, and yet envelope entip# regi
of the globe in a total eclipfe of pal th in a palpable mental
that they may rob without being feen, and. enjoy without b quef-
tioned. Such reflections are neceffarily excited, not only by thé @e-
plorable ftate of the fciences, arts, and induftry in this extenfive arth.’
opulent empire, but by the miferable poverty of two-thirds of its in-
habitants.
UNIVERSITIES AND EDUCATION. ]: The ftate of education, if it dee
ferve the name, is fo intimately connected with that of the univerfities,
and other meney foundations, that an account of the latter mutt fuffice.
The univerfity of Mexico, founded in 1551, is ftyled Royal and Pontifi-
cal; and the cloifer is renpens of 2¢1 doctors, of all forts of faculties,
except the faculty of reafoning. It is governed by a rector, elected
yearly by the leffe. clojfer, compofed of the former rector and eight
yruntellors, chofen by lot from the ‘doétors and batchelors. The office
of chancellor is annexed to the dignity of {choolmatter of the metropolis;
his office being to prefide at conferring fome degrees, while on other oc»
cafions he holds the fecond rank. The ftatutes were compiled by Pa-
lafox, and the method of ftudies remains the fame as at the beginning,
and fimilar to that of Salamanca, that is calculated to diffufe a moit
glorious darknefs *. ’
The chairs or profefforfhips are, the Firft, and thofe of Vefpers,
Scripture, St. Thomas, and Duns Scotus; the two laft being filled up
by the holy order of St. Francis. In law there are the Firft of the
canons, the vefpers of the canons, the temporal of the Clementines, &c.
In inedicine fix. In botany a director afd a profeffor, or in the Spanith,
a cathedral of botany, who alfo leétures at the royal botanic garden.
In philofophy two; rhetoric one; one for the Mexicin language, and
another for the Otomite, the two moft univerfal in the viceroyalty, and
ufeful in the converfion of the favages.
At firft all the feats were filled by the votes of all the fcholars, fo
that the candidates were obliged to gain general efteem. At prefent the
rofeflors are named by a molt venerable junta, confifting of the arch.
bithop, in whofe palace it is held, of the regent of the Royal Audience,
the dean of the cathedral,: the oldeft inquifitor, the re@or of the univer-
fity, the mafter of the see {chools, the profeffor of the firft clafe
of theology, and the dean of the faculty}. - ‘
The public library of the univerfity was founded about forty years ago,
and is well furnifhed with old books of divinity, but for new editions of
the claffics, or new worke of {cience and philofophy, you may look in
vain; becaufe, fays our author, certain incidents have prevented the
‘full enjoymeat of the revenues, though equal to any in the peninfula,
* There is another univerfity at Guadelaxara, or rather two colleges; one the feminary
of the cathedral, the other for writing and the Mexican language. There were alfd two
rhe of dotioe i uired expence, generally defrayed by fome rich
t nee at a great . ic
patron, a inark of this d mb a ring. Othe bonnet ~ roquet are expufed with great
pomp from the balcony of the patron, If a doctor of medicine be named, a {pur is put
on; cy tt pun, as the fame word in Spanith fignifies advice; perhaps it may fig-
nify that they lend fpure wo the difcafe, EAtalla,’ axvi. 950,
that
ae Gewese Ose Fe el€*CUOUmD
Se > SPANISH DOMINIONS.
that is, in Spain *. In fact, the falaries of 251 ufelefs dettors might
confume\even royal revenues; and it would be preferable to have only
he daewor, and.250 new books, This library is open to the public, ex.
jundays and holidays, from feven to eleven in the morning, and
o fe in the evening ; there being two dodtors librarians, a
wr and an evening doctor; und one fervant to bring the
AMV eunuchs worthy of fuch a haram.
yt he college of St. Mary-of-all-Saints is the only one of the firft rank
Fthe Spanifh American poffeffions. It was founded by the moft glori.
ous, iitrious,. vesersble: and wonderful lord and doétor, Don Fran.
oe Rodriguez, &c, Santos, bifhop of Guadalaxara, and dedicated to
>» Moft Holy Virgin Mary, under the advocation of the affumption ;
for'which, and manifold ofice reafons, it was baptized St. Mary-of all.
Saints. There are ten dignitaries, four in divinity, three in canon law,
and three in civil ; **the candidates exhibit public and fecret informations
Of @obifity (perhaps fixteen quarters), literature, and moral manners;
afterwards undergoing a regular examination, in which he muft make a
difeaprfe, and@piwer all forts of arguments.” This college, being re.
garded as fecular, is fubje& to the viceroys. The defign was to afford
to youth, who had ftudied in the leffer colleges, an afylum, where they
mi rf¢&t themfelves in theology and law, while it is one of the
ftablifhments in the viccroyalty, Yet there is a public library,
according to our author, contains fome rare manutcripts, proba.
whic
bly relative to the ecclefiaftic hiftory of New Spain. The catalogue of
diftinguifthed members of this college was printed at Mexico 1796.
The feminary was founded by an archbifhop of Mexico in 1682, ac.
ing to the exact method ordered by the | council of Trent,
There are at prefent thirteen profeffors. As the old edifice was not fuf.
ficient, for the ftudents amounted to 400, a new building was ereéted in
5 75°. The method of ftudy has been fomewhat reformed ; and inftead
of meta
phyfical fubleties, the belles lettres and ufeful ftudies begin to be
fubftituted ; and the printed themes begin to difplay fome acquaintance
with good authors. The ftudents are alfo encoyraged by rewards, and
a more free accefa into other literary focieties. A fund of 60,000 pe/rr
Juertes, or hard dollars, yields a revenue of 3000, which ferves to found
an yearly chaplaincy ; and there are fcholarfhips for the poor, with books
and cloaths, In the month of Augult there is a folemn diftribution of
prizes by the archbifhop, amidft a brilliant affembly.
The Jefuits had formerly five colleges, of which two alone remain,
and are directed by the viceroy, or rather by a junta, prefided by the
archbifhop, and, in one only, grammar is taught to the Indians+. The
other, called San Ildefonfo, is nearly on the fame footing with the femi-
nary, there being one profeffor of {cholaftic divinity, one of law, three of
philotophy, three of grammar ; but though many illuftrious members have
endeavoured to exclude the peripatetic fubtleties, it has been hitherto found
impoffible to overthrow the ron barriers again(t the neceffary reformation,
which however muft fucceed at Tat ; and fince 1796, the themes begin to
difplay fome acquaintance with folid authors. The buildings are mag:
nificent, and may be compared with any in Europe; the chapel and
grand hall being the mot beautiful in the viceroyalty.
© Eftalla, xxvii. 259. :
+ The late King Charles ITT. founded « college for noble Indians, under the ftyle of
St. Caslos ; but as he forgot to aflign any funds, the defign unexpectedly fell to the ground.
The
to 195,000 francs, ani
The college of
Spain, having be
the inftruétion of
however in a pag
enlarged, and for
it was {till further
is {till too fevere,
tution. ;
The college of
of the Francifcan:
who are taught
for Duns Scotus
of the oppofitior
alfo' public {chool
are obitinately pu
to exclude any r
known by the cor
israther an hotel,
rics of Havana,
royal univeriity.
Such are the ar
and inftruétive na
pible of directing
viceroyalty, a col
are not only inftri
education. Inth
in their internal ¢d
forms prejudicial t
confequence has
far more advanta
filful and virtuor
grammar, drawin
mineralogy, the
Public rewards ar
aflembly of the p
while an orchettra
machines and mod
to be elegant -and
The royal aca
tint. The filve
drawing 5 and it
predicament. ‘Tt
tecture, painting,
given to a matter
profeffor of math
ancient Ratues ha
leétion of painting
* Among the fir
eontaiving the earths,
work, conftruged on
of Mexico,
; Eftalla, xxvii. 20
able. The profeffor
flatuo of Charles IV, i
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 89
The college of St.John Lateran is the moft ancient of dny in New r
Spain, having been founded in the reizn of the emperor: Charles V,,. for
the inftru€tion of thofe defcended from Spanifh and Indian parents. It was
however in a poor condition, until 1764, when the plan of ftudies w
enlarged, and fomewhat approaches to that of the feminarye,
it was {till further inproved on the European plan ; but the ¢omefe of
js {till too fevere, and only ferves to frudtrate the intentions GF t
tution.
The college of St. Jago is without the walls of Mexico, in a houfe
of the Francifcans, but is at prefent merely a boarding {chool.for children,
who are taught grammar, philofophy, and divinity, fuch as they are ;
for Duns Scotus maintains all the obfcurity of his reputation, in fpite .,
of the oppofition of fome of the friars, Qther religious orders have’
alfo'public fchools. In general, in all thefe colleges, the ancient: plans
are obltinately purfued ; and all the windows have {trong blinds, in order
to exclude any modern light, the gravitation of “Newton being only
known by the corpulency of the proteffors. ‘The college of San Ranion
israther an hotel, where are maintained the young men from the pig,
rics of Havana, and Valladolid in Mechoacan,. who @jady law, in, the,
royal univertity.
Such are the ancient inftitutions, ‘I'he modern are of a more pleafing
and inftruétive nature. A deficiency having been obfegyed of men ca-
pable of Heetiing the mineralogic operations, fo general in thisopgilent
viceroyalty, a college of mines has at length been ereéted, where. youth
are not only inftruéted in that fcience, but in other iigiportant parts of
education. Inthe firft place, all the antiquated practices of the cqlleges, -
in their internal diltribution, in the drefs, manner of eating, an oat
forms prejudicial to youth, have been totally banifhed : whence.the happy
confequence has arifen, that the fcholars have, with lefs +e :
far more advantage, been inftructed in all the objeQé, w
fkilful and virtuous man. The ftudies purfued are Spaniih French
grammar, drawing, mathematics, natural philofophy, che iftry, and
mineralogy, the praétice being throughout. united with the theory.
Public rewards are afligned in prefence of the tribunal @& mines,;and an
afembly of the principal inhabitants, the hall being {plen@idly adorned,
while an orcheftra of mufie divertifics the exhibition. @.collection of
machines and models is numerous ard excellent, and the newredifice {aid
to be elegant-and well arranged *. << oe
The royal academy of the Three Noble Arts is a valuable iaftitu-
tion +. The filverfmiths are obliyed to fend their appremticés to ftudy.
drawing 5 and it would be well if {ome other profeffions we e like
predicament. ‘The academy is provided with good profeffags In archi-
tecture, painting, {culpture, and engraving, in whichdaft pefes are
given to a mafter to teach the art to feledt difciples. is aio a
profeffor of mathematics, to affilt the clafs of architeéture. Models of
ancient ftatues have been brought from Spain, and there is a {mall cole
leétion of paintings. ‘The funds are 13,900 pe/os from the royal trea-
* Among the firt fruirs of this infiimution is Detrio ntos de Oriognofia, part b
eontaluing the earths, floner, and falts, Mexico, 1795, 4to. pp. 11. and 171. This
wh conftrudted on the principles of Werner, is defigned for the ufe of the feminaty ,
exico, ‘
+ Eftalle, xxvii. 200, The revenue of the Academy of Fine Arts at Mexico nte
to 195,000 francs, ancl its influence in the improvements of edifices, &c. te very confider-
able, The profeffor of feulprure is the celelrated ‘Toulfa, who has pr xluced an equeitrian
flatuo of Charles IV, in bronze, @ work of claifical purity, Humb. 119,
8
fury,
ioe .
ag,
590 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
fury, 1000 from the city of Mexico, s000 from the tribunal of mines,
200'from Vera Cruz, 200 from Guanajuato, &e. and 4900, as the in.
tereft of 80,000 of principal; fo that the whole revenue is 26,580 fej,
while the falaries, penfions, and rewards amount to 25,043. Architeds,
fcul aime painters, and furveyors, are regarded as refponfible to this
academys;. ;
There are alfo particular houfes in Mexico where Latin grammar i;
tog by preceptors approved by the government and univerfity, though
in fad of fmall fkill and reputation, fo that the colleges are generally
preferred. ‘ « In the primary {chools for children, I have obferved with
pleafure confiderable improvements. Some mafters have adopted the
excellent method eftablifhed in the royal fchools of Madrid, and in that
of the royal committee, abandoning the barbarous routine of the old
fchoolmafters. ‘The public examinations held in Mexico evince the fir.
periority of the new method.” su
~ The royal garden of botany in New Spain is regarded by our auther
as a medical inftitution to difcover the virtde of plants. A new céurfe
is held every year, frequented not only by ftudents of medicine, but b
other curious perfons; yet the botanic garden, in 1799, was of {mall
account, and only regarded as provifional*. And though there are
profeffors of medicine and furgery in the royal univerfity, yet they are
merely theoretic, and employed in at whether medicine be an
art or a fcience, and ether queftions of large leaves, many haeert and
{mall fruit, Some little idea of practice is acquired in the hofpitals;
but when one of the faculty projected a chair of practical medicine,
death got angry, and laid violent hands upon him.
From the preceding account, carefully extraéted from a recent and
intelligent:Spanith author, it may be obferved that the chief object, the
diffufion Of a good and folid education, would ftill appear a novelty,
The improvements in the primary {chools afford confolatory ideas ; but
the chieF obje@ fhould be to increafe their number, to educate and pre.
pare proper mafters, and to affign permanent falaries, to be derived from
a portion of the immenfe poffeffions of the church, which would be far
more laudably’employed in teaching virtue and fcience, than in main.
taining ignorance and luxury.
Ciries.—Mexico.] The chief city of New Spain, and all Spanih
America, i¢ Mexico, celebrated for the fingularity of ite fituation. In
a beautiful vale, furrounded with mountains, the lake of ‘Tezcuco is
joined on the fouth to that of Chalco by a ftrait, on the weft fide of a
tongue of land, the whole circuit of thefe lakes being about go miles,
In a fmallifle to the north of this jun&ion, and upon the welt fide of
the lake of'Tezcuco, rofe the old city of Mexico, acceffible by feveral
caufies raifed in the thallow waters, but on the eaft fide there was no
communication except by canoes, It is faid by Robertfon, from recent
Spanifh documents, to contain 150,000 inhabitants ; of which probably
a third part is: Spanifh. A recent account of this remarkable city 1
given by Chappe D’Auteroche +, who vifited it in 1769, and informs
us that it is built upon a fen, near the banks of a lake, and croffed by
numerous canals, the houfes being all founded an piles. Tlence it would
® There were, however, in 1798, 3000 plants, uf which half were unknown in Bu,
rope ;. there was a!fo a great colleiion of quadrupeds, birds, &c. Eztalla, xxvii, 194.
¢ Vv to California, 1778, ¥vo. This thort but curious work feems to have
efcaped Dr, Robertfon, A plan of Mexico is inferted, but injudicioufly not extended to
the lake. ‘The account of Mexico by Pagés feems only to evince that his work is a fabs
cation. 64 feem
feem that the wate
accefs on the weft '
buildings, as the .
and flraight, but v
are tolerably built.
ftands near the ca
elegant. Behind t
mett are employed
bullion fur coin,
and convents, whi
autlide of the cat}
but the rail round |
lamp fo capacious
richzd with lions’
images of the virgi
with gold and prec
are two others, eac
of the town, near
rivulet runs,all row
and jet Peau in the 1
terminate at this ba:
trees, they are not
in or near to Mexic
full of canals, <A {
madero ; this is the |
vidims of the awft
enclofure between |
thrown over the w,
burnt alive; conde
t is charity +.””
filk, their hats being
for even the flaves
ao The lad
i is the feat o
Acapulco on the fo
and jewels, - To mag
ancient continent. ¢
writers in the. defeé
there were fuppofed
and gems; the
, whey families
© the precedin
be} a a feleGtion
pun’ in 17995
Spain, details Lt 0
all former defcriptio
x
SPANISH DOMINIONS. sot
feem that the waters of the lake have diminithed, fo as to leave a fenny
acces on the weft*. The ground ftill yields in many places; and fome
buildings, as the cathedral, have funk fix feet. ‘The ftreets are wide
and ftraight, but very dirty ; and the houfes, refembling thefe in Spain,
gre tolerably built, The chief edifice is the viceroy’s palace, which
ftands near the cathedral in a central fquare, but is rather folid than
elegant. Behind the palace is the mint, in which more than 1a9 work-
met are employed, as the owners of the mines here exchange their
bullion fur coin. The other chief buildings are the churches, chapels,
and convents, which are very numeraus, and xichly ornamented. The
tide of the cathedral is unfinifhed, as they doubt the foundations ;
but the rail round the high altar is of folid filver, and there is a filver
lamp fo capacious that three men get in to clean it $ while it is alfo en-
riched with lions’ heads, and other ornaments, ‘in pure gold. The
images of the virgin, and other faints, are either folid filver, or covered
with gold and precious ftones. Befides the great central fquare there
are two others, each with a fountain in the middle. * To the north
of the town, near the fuburbs, is the public walk, or Alameda. A
rivulet runs,all round it, and forms a pretty large {quare, with a bafon
and jet d'eau in the middle. Eight walks, with each two rows of trees,
terminate at this bafon, like a ftar, but as the foil of Mexico is unfit for
trees, they are not ina ngs ce condition. This is the only walk
in or near to Mexico; all the country about it, is fwampy ground, and
full.of canals. A few paces off, and facing the Alameda, is the Que.
naderos this is the place where they burn the Jews, and other unhappy
vidims of the awful tribunal of inquifition. This Quemadero is an
enclofure between four walls, and filled with ovens, into which are
thrown over the walls the poor wretches who are condemned to be
burnt alive ; condemned by judges profeffing a religion whofe firft pre«
t is charity +."". The Spanith inhabitants are commonly clothed in
all, their hats being adorned with belts of gold and rofes of diamonds ;
for even the flaves have bracelets and necklaces of gold, filver, pearls,
and gems. The ladies are of diftinguifhed gallantry. Mexico, though
inland, is the feat of vait commerce st Vera Cruz on the eaft, and
Acapulco on the fouth ; and the fhops difplay a profufion of gold, filver,
and jewels. In magnificent regularity it yields to few cities even on the
ancient continent. Gage, whofe authority was ufed by the moft recent
writers in the, defect ‘of other materials, fays that in his time, 1640,
there were fuppofed to be 15,000 coaches, fome of them adorned with
and gems; the people being fo rich, that it was fuppofed that one.
f of the families kept equipages tf,
To the preceding brief defcription of this celebrated capital may now
be joined a fele&tion of recent circumftances, from the work of Vitalla,
publifhed in 37993 and as, in the whole of this defcription of New
Spain, details of confiderable length have been given, not only becaufe
all former defcriptions were fo antiquated and defective, that this region
* This probab ned after 1629, when there was a remarkable inundation, and
awide canal was led ha mountain to drain the lakes. The | lake is faline,
the bottom “ny beagordy but that of Chalco rather fweet, Certain it is that the fite of
the city is the fame with the ancient, the viceroy refiding on the fpot of Motezuma’s
» in*a menfion built by Cortez, and ftill rented at 4000 ducats from the
ifes del Valle hig defcendants. La Croix, ii. 961, But compare Careri, who hae
Gane the original papers a curious detail concerning the procedure in draining the
+ D'Auteroche, p> 44, . $ Survey of the Weft Indies, 1655, fol. p. 56.
had
$92 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
the very reproach of geography, but becaufe the countr
Tae oman a one of Fake moft fingular and interelting nt
the face of the globe, fo caw of the metropolis of America thal}
ufually ample and minute.
aaatthe aie of Mexico oie fubtle, and dangerous.“when confined in
narrow paffages; hence the lake docs not produce fuch humidity ag
' might be conceived, and the bodies of dead animals remain long uncon.
fumed. The lake, as already feen, has retired a Spanith league from
the city ; and fome think that this circumftance renders the air lefs heal.
thy, for too dry a climate may produce accidents and fudden deaths,
There are however many water-courfes, covered and open, but they are
cleanfed only once in two years. The winter froft is gentle, and is
thought fevere when the ice exceeds the thicknefs of paper. The fum.
mer Reus are tempered by the regular fhowers which fall in the evenings,
Betwixt twelve and one o'clock, during the rainy feafon, the clouds
begin to rife from the lakes ; and betwixt two and three defcend in vio.
lent fhowers, of which an European can hardly form an idea, except by
comparing the noife and rapidity to a ftorm of large hail. . The rain con.
tinues two hours, more or lefs; and is fometimes accompanied with
lightning, not without accidents. Sometimes there are water-{pouts,
which however have never been known to have fallen on the city, but alg
ways onthe lake. They however fometimes ruin minin _ftations ; and
our author fays that they have been known even to level ills. T hough
jut within the tropic of cancer, the yearly cold at Mexico appears, from
thermometrical obfervations, to exceed the heat. The rainy feafon ex.
tends from the middle of May to the middle of September 5 during
which, as has been mentioned, it rains every evening ¢ if it failed, the
harveft would be lolt, and hes would - many difeafes, which have
i sgenerated into the contagious form.
torthe plain ef Mexico is about finty leagues in circumference, and en.
clofed on all fides by mountains, covered with cedars, many rare fhrubs,
and medicinal plants ; while they contain minerals and precious ttones,
Thefe mountains are ftudded with romantic villages and farms, watered
with cryital rivulets. Near the middle of this delicious plain are the
lakes ‘ezcuco and Chalco, Eftalla informs us that the waters; not
many years ago, reached to the city; but he adds, that Don Domingo
de *Trelpalacios, uncle of his friend, who gave him the moft recent in.
telligence concerning New Spain, had conitruéted a dyke on the fide of
San Lazaro, that the city might not be inundated; and which till
exifts, though of no utility, becaufe the lake had retired nearly a Spanith
league, or four Englifh miles *. The we one by his account, a
in the fame pofition as when founded in the chriftian year 1 327. eo
fince the year 1712 there have been no augmentations, t ugh t
churches and houfes have been beautified, the increafed oe 0 a
habitants being accommodated by the greater height of the hou ae .
the more fplendid part of: the capital being reduced to — oun :
The ftreets are well opened,. proceeding in right lines from ea . we
and from north to fouth; and though the foil 1s marfh' » the foun we"
are rendered firm by art andindutry. It is incredible how much hi
and capital has been decorated and improved very rag £2 both ow :
interior and environs, great cleanlinefe and a good police hay, ve
the fame time eftablifhed, fo as to have become the large _ oe oe rman
ful, and {umptuous of all the Spanith monarchy. The cath
@ Fitella, xxvii, 79. + Thi. xxvi. 953.
| j¢a magnificent
are two images of
and is adorned y
marks, or about
fingular pomp anc
there are more t
corated. The r
nunneries amount
the celebrated My
Amoig the nu
are the royal and
extends on the n
the fouth.from th
the court for {tra
of regifters ; the
many others: no
, houfe of the miffj
thecharity of the (
the royal tribunal
or the defcendant:
vernment of the
ancient arms were
towers, an eagle o1
tree is the lake ; t}
fupported by two
the privileges and d
in 1773, indulged t
laced with gold, |
bodies, exeept the
patronefs of the cit
1737, and whofe we
The natives have
they boaft of Cab
Patricio. Their gel
and charitable peo
many archbifhops ar
but not one author
greater glory, ‘and
pheres,
There are thirtee
houfe of refuge fo
doned females; a f.
poor and beggars,
who are fedns a go
when they are-able
at the cathedral, red
wih to marry, alread
_ The mount of pi
infitution in favour
by the infamous ufu
univerfal imitation,
_*A caftellano is the fif
tight ounces, :
+ The beggars uf the ¢
contrat |
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 593
| $ga magnificent edifice, the ereGtion having occupied 94 years; there
are two images of the virgin; one of gold which weighs 6984 ca/fr/lanos*,
and is adorned with precious ftones; the other of filver, weighing 83
marks, or about fifty-five pounds. The fervice is performed with
fingular pomp and fplendour +. ‘'hough the parifhes do not exceed 14,
there are more than 100 other churches, .moftly neat and richly de-
corated. The religious houfes are furprifingly numerous, and the
nunneries amount to twenty, one of them having been the refidence o
the celebrated Mexican poetefs, Juana Inés de la Cruz. Be.)
Amotg the numerous courts of juftice and officers here eftablifhed,
are the royal audience and chancery of New Spain, whofe jurifdiction
extends on the north from the cape of Honduras to Florida, and: on
the fouth.from the audience of Guatimala to that of Guadalaxara-;
the court for itrangers, and thofe who die inteftate ; the royal tribunal
of regifters ; the royal coffers or general treafury ; the royal mint, and
many others: not to {peak of the tribunal of the inquifition; the
_ houfe of the miffions of California ; the mount of piety, ereéted by
the charity of the Count de Rega, who gave no lefs than 315,000 pefos ;
the royal tribunal of mines; that of the eftate and marquifate of Valle,
or the defcendants of Cortez; the illuftrious chapter, juftice, and go»
vernment of the moft noble and imperial city itfelf, to which the
ancient arms were contirmed by Charles V., being a caftle with three
towers, an eagle on a tree with a fnake in its beak; at the foot of the
tree is the lake ; the whole furmounted with an imperial crown, and
fupported by two lions, Philip V. granted to Mexico, in 1728, all
the privileges and diftinctions of a grandee of Spain; and Clrarles II1.,
in 17735 indulged the chapter, or magiftrates, with the ufe of uniforms
laced with gold, declaring their precedence over all tribunals and
bodies, exeept the royal audience and the tribunal of accounts. The
patronefs of the city is St. Mary of Guadalupe, folemnly chofen in
1737, and whofe worfhip has extended over all Spanifh Amcrica.
The natives have confiderable difpofitions for the arts, and in painting
they boaft of Cabrera, Enriquez, Vallejo, Palaez, and Don Juan
Patricio. Their gentral charaMter is that of a liberal, courteous, affable,
and charitable people. The univerfities and colleges have educated
many archbifhops and bifhops, viceroys, ambafladors, and magiftrates 5
but not one author of any diftinction, though this be an obje& of far
greater glory, and might have diffufed ite reputation over both hemif-
heres, is
P There are thirteen hofpitals, and other charitable eftablifhments; 2
houfe of refuge for married women: that of the Magdalen for aban-
poor and beggars. ‘There are alfo feveral houfes for female orphans,
who are fed at a good table, and receive 100 dollars a year, and §co
when they are-able to eftablifh themfelves. Other girls drawing lots
at the cathedral, receive certain perquifites ; and fometimes, when they
with to marry, already poffefs from fix to eight thoufand dollars.
The mount of piety has’ already been mentioned; and ‘this ufeful
infitution in favour of the poor, who are in many countries devoured
by the infamous ufury of the pawn-brokers, ought to be an object of
univerfal imitation, ‘There is a general hofpital for the Indians, of
* A caftellano is the fiftiedh part of a mark, while a nuark is two-thirds ¢{ @ pound, of
eight ounces,
ti beggars of the city of Mexico, are computed at 60,000, Pike, A thocking
contra!
Qq which
- 2 a oa
econ
doned females; a foundling hofpital ; a general hofpital for the fick,
rr rE RE SEE TREO SIME SET
¥ ™“efowded parts of the city extend from north to fouth, one Spanifh
+, oseague, or four Englith miles; and from eaft to weft three quarters of
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
594
-which the expences are defrayed by themfelves; but the’ family of
Cortez the corqueror maintains another hofpital for the Indians, with
fuch excellent affiftance that they are eager to-enter. Among feveral
other hofpitals that of San Lazaro receives lepers, an ancient malad
revived in America, where it is chiefly imputed to the ufe of cotton
fhirts, or other garments of that material, while fome add the ufe of
pork, of which there is a great confumption,. and that of chile, or
pimento fauce; and fome fulpec&t the venereal difeafe ; but the chief
. caufe feems to be the want of cleanlinefs. The civil and military officers
have a cheft for the relief of their widows, who derive a revenue equal
‘to the fourth-part of their hufband’s falary. This might well be
imitated in England, where the widows of deferving officers are often
left in great diftrefs. ;
The viceroy is commander in chief, and prefident. of the ceconomical
and political government ; and for the daily difpatch of bufinefs there
are two offices, befides that of the fecretary. He refides in the royal
palace fituated in the great fqnare, a contiderable edifice, extending
about 230 yards, and alfo centaining the royal mint, and the three
halls of the royal audienc-, two for civil cafes, and one for criminal.
‘© The holy tribunal of the faith always confifts of three inquifitors,
two being judges, and one fifcal ; four counfellors of the gown, two
ecclefiaftic counfellors, an a/guaci/, four fecretaries and a treafurer, with
other officers neceffary to its harmonious arrangement; the court of
judgment, tribunals, and habitations, being clofe by the imperial con.
vent of St. Dominic, where are,celebrated all the public fundtions of
the inquifition, the building being of fumptuous appearance.”
The viceroy is alfo prefident of the tribunal of accompts, which in.
fpeéts all thofe of the royal revenue. The tribunal of quickfilver
forplice all the mines with that indifpenfable article. The mint hass
number of neceffary officers, and its labour is greatly augmented ; for
while in 1743, the coinage was 8,112,000 dollars in filver, with 5,912
marks of i there has latterly been {truck to the annual amount of
26,020,000 of dollars. Moft of the other tribunals are in the palace,
The cuftom-houfe has a regula: guard, to obferve all articles that enter
or leave the city. The city council is near the royal palace, confilting
of a corregidor or corrector, the Spanifh title for a mayor or chief
magiltrate, twelve regidores, or aldermen, and other officers. The
junta of the pofido prefides over the grain and other fupplies of the
city; while that ‘of the police fuperintends the buildings, pavements,
ri | cleanlinefs of the ftreets. There are common alcalds, who judge,
civil and criminal cafes in the firft inflance ; but an appeal lies to the
reyal audience. With regard to the Indians the city is divided into
two parts, called the divifions of Tenucas and Tlatelucas, having, each
their governors, alcalds, and other officers, perfeétly acquainted with
the houfes and perfons of each individual, probably with a view to
revent infurreGtion. The firft divifion contains more than 6000
Pmilies of Indians; the fecond more than 2,500 ; but they all feem to
be chiefly eflablithed in the environs, as t%cy are counted by villages
and farms. ’
The city of Mexico is abundantly fupplied with grain, fruit, ard
the productions of the garden, from the environs, which are very fertile,
except on the eaftern fide of the great lake of Tezcuco, as the faline
waters and vapours impede the vegetation. The more populous and
a league,
a league, or thie
Tacuba, there ig |
At the diftance
ealtzingo, begins
in le rh from nx
affording ample fp
the produéts of it:
are feen various \
Francifcan conven
To purfue the |
of Mexico is not {
atrench, or ditch,
{muggling.. The
that fanctuary, and
Antonand San La
and this general di
amillion of dollars
occafion is celebrat.
ftreets, generally re
are now well pave
neceflary to be carr
tothe other. Int
horfe of bronze; t
where he fometimes
bufinefs; but in ge
the warm feafon at |
Even the manufa
perfons are emplo
tribunal of Ja Acord
the judge, who is c:
infpector of prohibit
ordered ‘in our time
three judges, fhould
has from eight to te
the names of licuten
to enlift on account
has afleffors. The
that of Spain,’ knovy
the many robberies
this vigilant police
the viceroyalty, fpe
rounds day and nig
Exido de Coneha,
and the tribunal has
privilege of reviewing
* Humboldt eftimates t
2,50
65,00
33,00)
26,50
. 10,00
137,00
The confumption of w
Brunonian frftem of medi
oblerved the bad efleds of
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 595
a league, or three Englith miles; and though tle houf:s extend to
Tacuba, there is only one {treet from San Hipolito *.
caltzingo, begins the other great lake, that of Chalco, about five leagues
inle»zth from north to fouth, and about as much from eaft to welt,
affording ample fpace tor the crowded traffic of canoes, which bring all
the produéts of its circumference. In the midft, befide the royal’canal,
are feen various villages, among which is that of Ixtacalco, with a
Francifcan convent, much frequented by the citizens after Eafter.
To purfue the fomewhat defultory defcription of our author, the city’
of Mexico is not furrounded with walls or other defence ; there is only
atrench, or ditch, ferving as a barrier to colle& the duties and prevent
fmuggling. . The chief gates are that of Guadalupe, on the road to
that fanétuary, and thofe of Los Angeles, Trafpana, Chapultepec, San
Anton and San Lazaro. All the pulgue enters by the gate of Guadalupe,
and this general drink of the Indians and of the poor now yields about
amillion of dollars to the king. When anew cargo enters, this joyous
occafion is celebrated with banners, mufic, and incredible uproar. The
ftreets, generally reaching from one extremity to the other of the city,
are now well paved, but are fo even, that during rain it becomes
neceflary to be carried on the fhoulders of the Indians Hem one foot path
tothe other. Inthe midtt of the great fquare is a fountain, with a
horfe of bronze ; the palace of the viceroy has a confiderable garden,
where he fometimes ereéts a tent, affumes a country drefs, and difpatches
bufinefs; but in general the viceroys, having no suuniipehentie pals
the warm feafon at that of the archbifhop, in Tacubaya.
Even the manufactory of cigars, in which more than five thoufand
perfons are employed, is a modern and magnificent edifice. The
tribunal of Ja Acordada was one of the mott terrible in the viceroyalty ;
the judge, who is called captain. of the holy brotherhood, being alfo
infpector of prohibited liquors. Nor was there any appeal till it was
ordered 'in our time, by Charles III., that the viceroy, with two or
three judges, fhould revife the fentences. The judge of the dcordada
has from eight to ten thoufand men throughout the viceroyalty, under
the names of lieutenants, corporals, and troopers, many being defiroua
toenlift on account of the privileges. The judge is a lay brother, but
has affeffors. The holy brotherhood was ettablithed in imitation o
that of Spain,’ known to every reader of Don Quixote, on account of
the many robberies and murders which were formerly committed ; and
this vigilant police maintains the public tranquillity of the city and ot
the viceroyalty, fpeedily chaftifing every excefs, and performing their
rounds day and night. Capital criminals are hanged in a field, called
Exido de Concha, from the name of the captain of this brotherhood 5
and the tribunal has become more ufeful, fince the viceroy obtained the
privilege of reviewing fentences of death.
* Humboldt eftimates the population of the city of Mexico in the following manner :
2,500 kLuropean whites. ,
65,000 (real whites,
83,000 Natives, (copper coloured Indians.)
26,500 Meftives, mixture of whites and Indians.
. 10,000 Mulattos.. .
137,000 Inhabitants. ‘
The confumption of wine is very much increafed finse 1791, efpecially finee the
Brunonian fyftem of medicine has been adopted by the Mexican phyticiaus,y whe had
oblerved the bad effects of debilitatiney medicines, p. 198. 199.
Qq2 The
At the diftance of two Spanifh leagues, at the place called Mexi- -
SAO AN TIE LENT OLGE EERN RRET
: ee tin aos
anager ete elites aie ily ite Bp nnts
a I OE ee SE eT Se eo SC
/
598 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
ifli :ond- dities, {s
iHe, ov market for trifling and fecond-hand commo ties,
a eee paces and executed by Don Domingo 1, ley
lacioe when he was fuperintendant of the’ city, ano ¢ noc defcri :
Tl , lifes, or theatre, is {mall but handfome ; the accors, commonly
: 3 Ue are not the beft, but fuperior to any native performers,
ti a is ermitted, except when the viceroy or his lady is prefent ;
ss water a fmoak like the men, diverting themfelves with throw.
ue se enue a cigars at the oppofite boxes. ‘he fpectators are fome-
cee thufaltie tn favour of certain aétreffes ; not many years ago, in
‘oar, F this kind, while an European actrefs was repeating a favourite
. i i uae of : old were thrown upon the flage, to the amount of
Sicac thentodt dollars, or about feven hundred Englith guineas ; a proof
i . nce *,
“ aeapee nee il in dhe taser example of great cleanlinefs,
ee vo this city was not lighted, nor the ftreets, nor even the foot
i ap hg All the is now executed with {uch neatnefs and pro.
paths an t, according to our author, Mexico may rival any European
in . 5 aad and water-courfes are opened in the greater part of the
arent. hich are well paved; the foot paths being raifed above the
sbi of the water. The market places are alfo cleanfed, and
ee m4 Ae fcavengers and carts to carry off the filth. T he tafte of
st xigane't alfo improved in their carriages and liveries, which were
“ vata pi a rude, and grotefque ; coachmen being fometimes feen
petri sia bibee aa the other leg even naked, while the coaches
rg salen each fide inftead of doors. At prefent signa nn
pat and convenient, and aie oe ings Aa yal stad gel
ent — re step. and.demeitek: and a white coachman would
ene in all ie Casanite being mulattoes, or other mingled breeds,
Bue the fathion of riding is univerfal, and the number of horfes pro.
pa fa tiful public walks, a rarity in the cities
iret Nar Let el pag tig failed, as Thiery mala “
psa havin been lanted ; while the climate and gs pai
rf ales fhould have een raifed from feed fown-on the nage e
page however hardly to ‘be ei by any “ty il go eh
; i ith a neat rajling of wood p ‘
are a troy igh fountain, and others on the fides, The
pibnige r penne. ase Jone in the angles, and the coaches going
te nade of Bucareli (a celebrated viceroy piste ot h0)
padi Fide, but may alfo make atour within. This vac aaerg ‘
on cs 1 steeds from the archcs of Ctiapultepec to the res t é
Bucare : rape being in the middle a fpacious fquare with a ae a i
ip cneliea can only pafs round, as a return on the fame rnd bibs
eer itt 4 It is very little frequented by foot pagent “hak
f Tit sli called alfo the V7 iga, made by the Count . 3 oe i
a l ns ft leafing, as.it runs by the fide of the cana “ 4° g° a
ee 8 Ae: conveys many canoes laden with eatables, ti me ’ ‘:
pik yi the rowers being often crowned with rofes, but ay a
fe _ e Ys alled up t. The promenade of Guadalu e was cau OY
Fe Counts father, who was allio viceroy, There is alfo a caufey |
i iety, the
* Tue theatre has however greatly declined fince it has been governed by a fociety,
dita being the beft part of the exhibition,
“+ Efftalla, xvii. 248. Metico
Mexico to Gy
cios, becaufe th
Water is intri
of brick ; one |
other by the ar
name. There j
rich order it fro
Humboldt *
formed to delir
northern lakes, :
that of Tezcuc:
which firft repre
precife idea coul
being fingularly
fmall map which
into the river T'y
river. This can:
the gallery of N
was at length laic
water were thirty
searly five league
of hills of Noch:
times exceeding
river; were it not t
inwidth. Still, |
. fwered, the level b
Englith engineer y
years, The river
nation of the canal
they flow into the
Mexico, by his
world, whether we
and fquares, or t
fometimes beautif;
deur, i® the con
America, which e
phia, or other citie
Having thus, it
capital, whofe rece
be clofed with fo
tain, as already
jeltic trees, and’ wj
tains, as in the valle
the fruits of Euroj
fields prefent nu
increafe the fertilit
duéts of the garde
poultry, quills, al
capitals nor are th
*P. 204. and feq.
t+ The Great inundati
ab yeats,
1 The two ftunes chie
anda porphyry with gla
Porphyry}
S So eee ee Se a ee
~
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 597
Mexico to Guadalupe, mace by orders of Don Domingo de Trefpala-
cios, becaufe the road was hardly paffable in the rainy feafon.
Water is introduced into Mexico by two aqueduéts, neatly conftrutted
of brick ; one by the Trefpana, the water coming from Santa Fé; the
other by the arches of Chapultepec, coming from a village of the fame
name. There is however no great abundance of good water ; and the
rich order it from various places in the neighbourhood.
Humboldt * gives a very prolix account of the progres of the canal,
formed to deliver the capital from inundations, by evacuating the
northern lakes, and thus preventing them from pouring their waters into
that of Tezcuco. Till the publication of the map of Alzate 1768,
which firft reprefented the courfe of the river Tula, or Motezuma, no
precife idea could be formed on the fubjeét, the geography of Danville
being fingularly erroneous. Gemelli Cateri had indeed publifhed a
fuitl lp which feems unknown to Humboldt, and prefents the opening
iito the river Tula, but does not indicate the fubfequent courfe of that
river. This canal was begun in 1607, in the form of a tunnel, called
the gallery of Nochiftongo ; but being fubje& to many inconvemtences,
was at length laid open in the form of an enormous canal, which if the
water were thirty feet deep might admit fhips of the line. Its length is
nearly five leagues, or fifteen miles, and the depth in cutting the chain
of hills of Nochiftongo is from fifty to fixty yards; the width fome-
times exceeding 100, and prefenting the appearance of an important
river, were it not that the ftream in the dry feafon is not above four yards
inwidth. Still, after two centuries, the intention is not perfedtlv an-
_ fwered, the level phat too high for the Jake of Tezcuco; and a modern
i
Englifh engineer would have aecomplifhed a far fuperior work in two
years. The river Tula has a remarkable /a/to or catara& at the termi-
nation of the canal, and conduéts the waters into that of Panuco, whence
they flow into the gulf of Mexico t.
Mexico, by his account, is one of the moft beautiful cities in the
world, whether we confider the opennefs and regularity of the ftreets
and fquares, or the ftyle of archite@ture, which is generally pure and
fometimes beautiful. There is alfo a fingularity, an air of exotic gran-
deur, iw the conftruétion, fituation, and fcenery of this metropolis of
America, which excites ideas not to be found in Peterfburg, Philadel-
phia, or other cities reared with modern regularity {.
Having thus, it is hoped, givena fufficiently ample defcription of this
capital, whofe recent ftate was little known in geography, the whole fhall
be clofed with fome account of the environs. The furrounding mouns
tains, as already mentioned, are crowned with cedars, and other ma-
jetic trees, and with many rare and beautiful fhrubs. On the moun
tains, as in the valley, there are handfome villages, villas and farms} and
the fruits of Europe ave mingled with thofe of the country, Verdant
fields prefent numerous herds of .cattle, while the rivers and lakes
increafe the fertility ; fo that the moft exquifite fruits, and other pro-
du&s of the garden, abound through the whole year. Turkies, geefe,
poultry, quite; and many kinds of fifh, contribute to the food of the
capitals nor are there wanting birds of exquifite fong or beautiful plus
*P. 204. and feq,
+ The great inwndations of the Iske of Mexico occur at intetvals, from fixteen to
a Se ycats,
1 The two fiines chiefly ufed in Building are what'Humbolde calls a porous amygaalite,
and a porphyry with glaily felfpar, but void of quarts ; as if uuartz were a conitituent of
por phyry
| Qq 3 mage.
508 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
mage. Agriculture boafts of flax, hemp, cotton, tobacco, indigo, fugar,
and magueys. ‘The eaftern fhore of the lake, as already mentioned,
alone prefents the afpe& of fterility, on account of the falt vapours from
*
te che moifture fupplied by the chain which furrounds the valley of
Mexico, is there united, and no ftream iffues from it except the rivulet
Arroyo, of Tequifquiac, which in a narrow ravine traverfes the northern
chain of mountains, to throw itfelf into the river Tula, or Motezuma,
which rifes on the oppofite fide of the chain +.
Among the chief reforts of the citizens may be named San Angel
and San Auguftin de las Cuevas, the laft in particular being equal to
the moft. delicious fpot in Spain. . The moft celebrated fanétuary is that
of our lady of Guadalupe, the hiftory of which miraculous image is
printed for the ufe of the devout.. There is a sunt with an abbot,
canons, and prebendaries ; the church being a regular building, with a
nave and two aifles ; the grating of the choir is of mafly filver, and the
other decorations of, correfponding epulence. In the neighbourhood is
a well which yields petroleum. nother fanétuary, or pilgrimage, is
that of our lady de los Remedios, on the {pot where Cortez retired when
he was repulfed from Mexico, on what is called the noche trifle, or mes
Jancholy night. Water was brought to the fanétuary by Trefpalacios,
a general benefactor, who conitructed many bridges in the neighbour.
aod of the capital, appeafed two tumults of Indians, and was a libe-
ral donor to the hofpitals. He firft undertook the work of the drains,
completed in 1797 by his nephew, dean of the royal audience ; fo that
at prefent, at the expence of fome millions, the lake, as already mens
tioned, is confined to the diftance of a Spanith league from the capital,
‘which it can no longer inundate. _ Without, the barrier. of Santiago is
the fanétuary of our lady of the Angels, formerly the refidence of a her.
‘mit. * Near that barrier is feen a picture, reprefenting a pious law of
“ Cortez, that ‘the dilatory ee may be eer to the mafs; an
jj y worthy of his period and country t. aan
ba arr of five fans to the fouth-weft from Mexico is the
defart of the Carmelites, in an inclofure of about a league in circuit, the
retreat of the more quftere monks there being in folitary cells, as in the
defart of Batuecas, in Spain, From one cf the heights is difcovered all
the valley’ of Toluca,’ nay the whole plain of Mexico, fixty Spanifh
leagues § in circumference. ‘This defart abounds with various trees, of
which the wood is much efteemed ; wild rocks and flowery fhrubs q.
The aqueduét of Chapultepec adorns the immediate environs; and on
the hill fo called was a palace of Motezuma. Trafpana is another place
of refort, where there are feyeral good houfes ; and many fettle there,
as the air is efteemed very healthy. On the fide of San Lazaro, about
half a league from Mexico, is the Rock of the Baths, which are warm,
put the quality ms notafcertained, ,
” There are many other flourifhing cities in this wide empire. Ina ante
mercial point of view the moft interefting are Vera Cruz and Acapulco,
the two chief ports; the firft on the Atlantic, the fecond on the Pacific,
. M. Thiery paffed a confiderable time at Vera Cruz in 1777, and
Heferibes “it as fituated in a fandy and ‘barren plain, with infectious
* i. 255. Humb. 204. ‘ Eftalla, xxvi, 229.
6 an Peiabte sittinate the circumference of the valley of Mexico at ninety leas
while it is in faét only fixty-feven, even reckoning by thé creft of che mountains, which fur-
; it hi ‘ircular wall. Humb, 164. vad ie :
ot falls axils 7 0. See alfo Gage, who gives an enchanting delcription of this fpot.
marfhes
marfhes on the fe
with a fimple wa
by 4 wooden pal
feeble baftions, ¢
tothe S. E. anc
the port, which i
in ftone and lime,
lefs travellers to
rough ftone ufed
is brought from
or entailed eftate
ftreets are wide,
The churches ab
chief luxury conf
cipal inhaoitants ;
duéted at Xalapa.
the inhabitants ar
is well underftood
lion of dollars. °
the only amufeme
mafquerades, the
A charity of fix t
pafled to the rich.
fathom, is an iflet,
istolerably fortifie
part being the fou
forty to fixty fhi
from four to ten by
drive veffels on fhe
are haunted by ca
but innocent. T
fometimes to dark
It need fcarcely be
in the gulf of Mex
vince of Santande
informs us, that t
cufed from going t
fand+. In the rai
at Mexico it is in t
teaching grammar
America, Earthq
of the governor.
is full of caymans,
fond of the fleth o
the caymans haften
{wim acrofs, know
the current. A
Mexico at the expe
The other grand
mart of the trade
call that with Chi
merchants at Mexi¢
* Thiery, ii, 1.
marfhes on the fouth*. It fronts the fea in a femicircle, and is inclofed
with a fimple wall or parapet, fix feet high and three broad, furmounted
by a wooden pallifade in great decay. This wall is flanked with fix
feeble baftions, or fquare towers, twelve feet in height. On the fhore
to the S. E. and N. W. are two redoubts, with fome cannon to defend
the port, which is bad and intricate. . The houfes are of good mafonry
in {tone and lime, with wooden balconies, which have induced fome care-
lefs travellers to report that the houfes themfelves are of wood. The
rough ftone ufed confifts of petrified madrepores; but a good free-{tone
is brought fram Campechy. Many houfes: belonging to mayorazgos, |
or entailed eftates, have‘fallen down from the want of repairs. ' The
ftreets are wide, well paved with pebbles, and kept in excellent order.
The churches abound in decorations of filver, while in the houfes the
chief luxury cunfifts of porcelain and other Chinefe articles. , The prin-
cipal inhuoitants are merchants, but European commerce is chiefly con-
duéted at Xalapa. The population is about feven or cight thoufand s
the inhabitants are generally proud, indolent, and devout ; but commerce
is well underftood, and there are feven or eight houfes each worth a mil-
lion of dollars. ‘The women are rarely handfome, and live very retired,
the only amufements being a coffee houfe, and proceffions, or religious
ma{querades, the penitents whipping themfelves with much bloodthed.
Acharity of fix thoufand dollars to marry four poor girls has,:as ufual,
pafled to the rich, Oppofite Vera Cruz, at the diftance of four hundred
fathom, is an iflet, on which ftands the caftle of St. John d’Ulloa, which
istolerably fortified with three hundred pieces of cannon, the weakeft
part being the fouth-eaft ; fignals are made from a high tower. From
forty to fixty ini of war, or a hundred merchantmen, might anchor.
from four to ten fathom ; but the northerly winds are terrible, and often
drive veffels on fhore. In the rainy feafon the marfhes on the fouth
are haunted by caymans, or alligators, from feven to eight feet in leftgth,
but innocent. The fea-fowl and other birds are innumerable, and levi
fometimes to darken the air; and the mufquitos are very troublefome.
It need {carcely be added that Vera Cruz is regarded as the only haven
in the gulf of Mexico; but one has been recently difcovered in the pro-
vince of Santander, and that of Campechy is not contemptible. Eftalla
informs us, that the north winds are fo davichity that the ladies are ex-
cufed from going to mafs; and thefe gales fometimes load the walls with
fand+. Inthe rainy feafon the water regularly falls in the night ; while
at Mexico it is in the afternoon. Some religious women are occupied in
teaching grammar to the parrots.of Alvarado, reputed the beft of all
America. Earthquakes are frequent ; and one in 1780 fhook the houfe.
of the governor. Old Vera Cruz is an unhealthy fituation, and the river
is full of caymans, fo ftrong as to draw an ox under water. ° They are:
fond of the fleth of dogs; but thefe fagacious animals bark aloud, and
the caymans haften to the fpot; they then fpeedily afcend the river, and
{wim acrofs, knowing that their enemies can with difficulty {wim againft
the current. A grand caufey is now forming between Vera Cruz and
Mexico at the expence of the merchants of Vera Cruz ft.
The other grand port of the Mexican empire is Acapulco, the chier
mart of the trade with the Philippines, which the Spanith writers often
call that with Chinas When the galleon or Chinefe fhip arrives, the
merchants at Mexico haften to receive their commodities ; but at other
* Thiery, ii, 1. + Eftalla, xxvii, 28. ’ ¢Humb. 37, ‘
Q44 time
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 599
eS ee
e - ar. nen nag lain deen ——nasiegndl
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
620
: vile eopled, being in a hot and wet cli.
es ee
while the falutary north winds of the eattern fhore are totally unknown ;
boone Acapulco is {earcely inhabited by any Spanith ie » While there
are about four hundred families of wpa rae pol suse sere
lippines, aneene ieee ie timertanedios of-the heat, increafe the
sb sashetlubinete of the fituationt. Even provifions aren
and ahe eity depends on a fupply from the tadians. At the dittance of
a mufquet {hot ftands, on a promontory, the cattle of San Diego, with —
i e pi the greater part twenty-four pounders, to
soead the noe po vo fo feneinns as to contain five hundred
fh the chief entrance being on the fouth. The governor has the title
F lie dahtavbenseiea! of the coaft of the South Sea; and there are three
a ypanies of militia, the Chinefe, the Mulatto, and the Negro. The
dine produces cotton, maize, pot herbs, and fruits, with fome tobacco;
i ici f cattle or fheep. - *
wd - we prrelpwaasfe pete of = Spain ; verre lo
or principal t it may not be improper brie ifider
ow a ater. mae son colbbeued provinces of Tlafcala, Mexicot,
and Mechoacan. " ‘ye ee tg
les is regarded as the mo pop y aft
weet ht or st Soe not lefs than fixty thoufand, while
a we the next, falls to forty-fix thoufand. Puebla 18 in a warm
ey slimate and one of the moft beautiful cities in ‘America, the
a bes being fumptuous, the ftreets broad and regular, with large
Feomaian iit handfome houfes§. © It is ore a caer wl ve
ies. here are alfo "
pot ea a wey "The latt enumeration bore fifteen thoufand
fan Mes of Spaniards, Creols, and Mulattoes, with three thoufand two
cs of Mexican Indians; but a rn a has a
in this and other parts of the viceroyalty. rere are feve.
peek ee 2 ei hans cure _—_ — eye — “ibd
i i ticularly fwords, ba onets, &c. c
el moainiend re "The foap is noted. even in Spain, the ia
b ile being in imitation of many animals and fruits of the country, In
oe eat much cotton is fold by the Indians, the buyers weighing it
ond reecanietele the price: but the feller repeats the procefs till he finds
he ce et no more, when he returns and fells it to the firft. toa.
it raf the Indians was here evidenced: .a Spaniard having ftolen a hor "
jon brought before the judge by the Indian coor iM: _— oa! yar
in hi nrew his cloak over the head of the animal,
in his favour, fuddenly threw over Thersbioy hese
jar hich eye he was blind. _ The robber,
wr a net i fhew dens ee “we We hich the
; i d, * of neither ;”? w
Shae Lkaekahom eens Alored, The ancient town of Tlal-
found ta be the fact, his horfe was reftored. he! ee ah
ill enjoys many of its former privileges, though r
Gre hundeed toe nd chiefly employed in weaving cotton, In the neigh:
i umb 219.
; vate’ pe pan are reckoned je g the cities of the ar es : ay ae
ann Kuchimileo are cities of the Indians. Eftalts, xxvi. tia ates Pokus “Bye o
rts ate Acapulco and Panuco; Vera Cruz being in the bihupric
pee ol Panuco is impeded by a bank of fand,
§ Eftulla, xxvii. 44,
bourhood
bourhood is tk
whofe allies we
Cordova is |
which there ar
and fixty famil:
or defcendants
groes, and two |
defcribes Cordc
fteeples, and a |
fides, the cathe
in the middle ;
moftly of ftone ;
much for man h
natural paflage
extremely rich a
in depth, produ
tance of feven §
town of Orizay.
of a {quare lea
fix hundred the
length, and five
freets ; though
ftreets, while the
fand whites, and
neries and fome
mules repofe, ani
It is in a vale, fu
the moft verdant
cano of Orizava,
Melites is of ba
reat quantity o
Cruz od Mexiec
eaft of the capita
and only one inin
Xalapa is ano
royalty, formerly
eets from Euro
it remains a confi
the fouthern fkirt
clay, and in parts
fertilize the coun
Spanith families, 2
and fixty-one Inq
always rains at
here is a regula
the capital ; but
The purging po
which the town g
Not to mention
*The celebrated h
Tlafcala asa mountain
communicated with the
in the time of Cortez
powder, Charles V,
Lialla, xxvii, ga,
SPANISH BOMINIONS. 6o1
bourhood is the plain of Otumba, celebrated fora viftory of Cortez,
whofe allies were the people of Tlafcala and the Otomite Indians*,
Cordova is a confiderable town, the chief trade being in fugar, of
which there are thirty-three mills. Evftalla fays there are two hundred
and fixty families of Spaniards, one hundred and twenty-fix of meflizos,
or defcendants of Spaniards and Indians, fixty of mulattoes and ne-
groes, and two hundred and feventy-three of Mexican Indians}. Thiery
defcribes Cordova as a large town, with numerous domes, towers, and
fteeples, and a large fquare in the centre, with Gothic arcades on three
fides, the cathedral filling the fourth, and a fountain of delicious water
in the middle: the ftreets are wide, flraight, and paved, and the houfes
moftly of ftene; but the inhabitants are indolent, for where nature does
much for man he does nothiog for hert. The fituation is in a kind of
natural paflage towards the province of Mexico; the vegetation being
extremely rich and beautiful, on a foil of red clay, from ten to fifteen feet
in depth, producing all the fruits of the two hemifpheres. At the dif-
tance of feven Spanith leagues, or twenty-eight Englith miles, ftands the
town of Orizava, in a country of fuch rich pafturage, that in the fpace
of a {quare league our traveller counted eleven flocks, each of more than
fix hundred fheep§{. The town js about fifteen hundred fathoms in
length, and five hundred in breadth, with wide, neat, and well paved -
ftreets ; though fuch is the power of vegetation, that grafs {prings in the
{treets, while the waters are as pure as cryftal. Population, three thou-
fand whites, and fifteen hundred Indians and negroes; there bein tan-
neries and fome manufatories of coarfe cloth. Here the caravans and
mules repofe, and the value of inland and European articles is eftimated.
It is in a vale, furrounded with detached mountains, overfhadowed with
the moft verdant forefts; above which proudly rifes on the weft the vol-
cano of Orizava, covered with perpetual fnow. The houfe of the Car-
melites is of barbaric magnificence. The neighbourhood -prodices a
great quantity of tobacco. Orizava is on the high road between Vera
Cruz and Mexico, being, according to Alcedo, forty-fix leagues to the
eaft of the capital, while he eftimates Vera Cruz at eighty-four leagues,
and only one minute of latitude further to the fouth.
Xalapa is another confiderable town in this fertile part of the vice-
royalty, formerly famous for the fair held on the arrival of the ftated
fleets from Europe; and even fince the commerce has been declared free,
it remains a confiderable mart for European commodities. It, ftands on
the fouthern fkirte of a mountain, in a beautiful climate, the foil bein
clay, and in parts ftoney, while pure waters iffue from a white fand, an
fertilize the country. ‘The population is two hundred and forty-three
Spanith families, a hundred and eighty-two meftizos, and three hundred
and fixty-one Indians, When north winds prevail at Vera Cruz, it
always rains at Xalapa; but the climate is elteemed very healthy.
There is a regular inn, and a {till better at Perote, a day’s journey nearer
the capital ; but the new road paffes by Cotdova, Orizava, and Puebla.
The purging powder of the country is made of the root of a plant to
which the town gives the name of jalap.
Not to mention Pachuca, eighteen leagues on the nerth-eaft of Mexico,
*The celehrated hiftorian Solis, whofe fads however are not always exact, defcribes
Tlafcala as a mountainous provimce, at the beginning of the grand ridge, by which they
communicated with the Oromites their allies, ‘The volcano of y sain un its eruption
in the time of Cortez, was explored hy Ordaz; and the fulphur was ufed to make gun-
powder, Charles V. rewarded Ovdaz, and gave him furarms a volcano — Eitulla, xxvii, 39.
t Kilalla, xxvii. go, Thiery, ii, 66, § Thiery, ii. 71.
formerly
~
!
602 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
fermerly famous for its mines, now inundated, nor Mextitlan, forty
leagues to the E.N.E. near the Sierra Madre, or mother chain of
mountains, the city of Queretaro, on the N. W. deferves notice. It js
feated in the country of the Otomite Indians, who were conquered by
the Spaniards in 1531*. Queretaro is faid to be one of the moft beau.
tiful and opulent cities of the viceroyalty, and thegmoft extenfive after
Mexico; the fituation being in a delicious vale, watered by a river,
which is divided into numerous channels, and conveyed into two thou.
fand gardens, producing all the fruits and flowers of Europe and Ame.
rica. From three grand fquares proceed numerous ftreets towards the
four cardinal points of the compafs; and there is a celebrated aquedud,
fupported by more than forty arches, of the height of thirty-five yards,
which coft one hundred and fourteen thoufand dollars. . The aqueduds
in general are the moft beautiful objects of architecture in New Spain,
The parochial church is magnificent, and the curacy one of the richeft
in the viceroyalty. Another church is fo f{umptuoully adorned, that the
altar is of maffy filver. There are three thoufand families of Spaniards,
meftizos, and mulattoes, and about as many of Otomite Ludians; fo
that the population is computed at forty.feven thoufand fouls, among
which are many rich and noble families, The manufactures are fine
cloths, woollen ftuffs, coarfe linens ; and the fhops are very numerous,
nor are the tanneries without reputation, This charming city is forty.
two leagues diftant from Mexico.
Puebla and Queretaro may thus be regarded as the two chief cities
after Mexico; and they are fucceeded by Guadalaxara and Guatimala,
feats of two royal audiences. Guadalaxarais more extenfive than popu:
lous, containing from eight to nine thoufand families of Spaniards, mef.
tizoe, and mulattoes; nor can the Indians be included, as they live in
farms and villages, There are eight fquares, many convents as ufual,
and two colleges foreducation. The Royal Audience was eftablihed in
1548. Guadalaxara flandé on the river Barnaja, or Efquitlan, which
flows from the lake of Mechoacan, and runs rapidly to the north- wet ;
there being a great cataract at the diftance of four leagues. The plain
of Guadalaxara is likewife watered with many rivulets, and furrounded
with hills, overfhadowed with pines and oaks. The city boafts of ex.
cellent artizans, and the people are generally fair and well formed, and
celebrated for induftry and honefty. There is here alfo a handfome
aqueduét, and numerous gardens replenifhed with excellent fruits. Ac-
cording to the memoirs of Trefpalacios, ufed by Eftalla, the daughters
of black and white parents are cove entirely white, not mulattoes, as in
the other provinces, The ftreets are unpaved, and the carriages drawn
by unfhod mules, fed with maize, which cofts four reals the buthel.
There are frequent tempefts, but it never fnows ; and when, by way of
phznomenon, a fhower fell, the inhabitants imagined that the end of the
world was come; and the like fuperftition was fhewn at Mexico a few
years ago, on the appearance of an aurora borealis,
The population of Guanaxuato is computed at 41,000, but the rich
fartsoabing mines have attracted nearly 30,c0o inhabitants to the neigh-
bourhood f.
Guatimala, the feat of the third Royal Audience, was founded by the
name of St. Jago, at the fide of a volcano, and wgs totally ruined by an
earthquake, 1775, but has been rebuilt at fome diftance. Of the new
city the accounts are very imperfect, though a gazette is there publifhed,
e Eftalla, xxvii, 107, who frequently copies Alcedo, + Humb. 247.
whith
which contains
The prefident o:
ample provinces,
ordinate to the vi
of jultice, was e
archiepifcopal fee
not been forgotte
the ufeful plans
erfonal beauty, ¢
the handfomelt ir
of the climate. '
nor even mentione
to that of Guadal:
Such are fome «
there are a few |
‘their pofitions, wl
to prefent a more
European reader.
fouthern to the no
Merieia is the cl
and a vatt plain, t
parts towards the
called Sizal, is op
The eapital of
alfo called St. Jage
is a {mall town tole
ing in maize, yuccs
but principally in {
permanent .purple,
the Pacific, akin t
gold from their
provinces of the ki
and fourteen villag
istuled by a gove
of the three which
cal arrangement he
graphical, for it i
North America.
abounding howev
paftures of the va
monkies, buff colo
foon die if carried t
be faid to rain eve
and lightning, wh
and dangerous torre
hyled that of Guet
but they are little
fhoulders of the T
Colon, who difco
Veragua, The D
¢ — to Mr,
25 geographical miles fa
vf Bran » how called
¢t Humb, 246,
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 603
which contains curious articles on antiquities and natural hiftory *.
The prefident of the kingdom of Guatimala, which contains many
ample provinces, as above explained, is commander in chiéf, but fub-.
ordinate to the viceroy of Mexico. The royal audience, or high court
of juitice, was eftablifhed in 1544, and in 1742 this city became an
archiepifcopal fee. It is probable that the churches and convents have
not been forgotten ; and there is an univerfity which begins to adopt
the ufeful plans of education. The inhabitants are celebrated for
erfonal beauty, and {weetnefs of difpofition, the women being reputed
the handfomelt in Spanifh America, probably owing to the moifture
of the climate. The number of inhabitants has not been afcertained,
nor even mentioned by any writer, but is’ probably equal, if not fuperior,
to that of Guadalaxara.
Such are fome of the principal cities of this extenfive empire, but
there are a few others narestle as capitals of provinces, or from
‘their pofitions, which it may be proper briefly to defcribe, in order
to prefent a more complete idea of a country fo little known to the
European reader. A {hort progrefs hall therefore be made from the
fouthern to the northern extremities, :
Merida is the chief town of Yucatan, an intendancy of New Spain,
and a vaft plain, traverfed from N. E. to S. W. by a chain of hills, the
parts towards the E, being moft fertile. The little port of Merida,
called Sizal, is oppofite to a eand-bank twelve leagues in length +.
The capital of the province of Veragua is a city of the fame name,
alfo called St. Jago, as being under the protection of St. James. This
js a {mall town tolerably fituated, ina warm and moift climate, abound.
ing in maize, yucca aroot of which bread is made, plantains, and cattle,
but principally in fwine $. The natives dye their cotton of a rich and
permanent .purple, with the juice of a fea {nail found on the coaft of
the Pacific, akin to the murex of the ancientas with which, and fome
gold from their mines, they carry on trade with Panama, and the
provinces of the kingdom of Guatimala. There is an elegant hofpital ;
and fourteen villages are fubject to the jurifdiction of this town, which
isruled by a governor. This province, as already mentioned, is one
of the three which compofed the aingeom of Tierra Firme, the politi-
cal arrangement having, as in the Ruffian empire, fet afide the geo-
graphical, for it is by all the Spanith writers allowed to belong to
North America. It is arugged country, full of inacceffible mountains,
abounding however with excellent and beautiful woods, and the
pattures of the vales ate extremely rich. There are beautiful little
monkies, buff colour, with a white crown, but fo delicate, that they
foon die if carried the {malleft diftance from their native clime. It may
be faid to rain every day in the year, and often with terrible thunder
and lightning, while from the mountains on the north defcend rapid
and dangerous torrents. The gold mines are opulent, the beft bein
hyled that of Guerrero, having been difcovered by a perfon fo called,
but they are little worked, becaufe every article muft be carried on the
fhoulders of the Indians over the precipitous mountains. The great
Colon, who difcovered this country in 1503, was created duke of
Veragua, The Dovaces, and other favage tribes, live naked in the
* According to Mr, Arrowfmith’s map of the Weft Indies, New Guatimala ftands about
45 pen hical miles farther to the fouth, on the river Vaccas, near the Barra de Iftapa
gf D'Anville, now called the harbour of Guatimala,
' ¢ Humb, 266, $ Alcedo in voce,
mountsins,
604 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
mountains, on roots and fruits; but many began to be converted in.
4760 by the Francifcans, who have founded fome Indian villages,
The capital of Coftarica, the moft fouthern province of the kingdom
of Guatimala, is Cartago, now a miferable place without any trade,
This province has feveral mines of gold and filver, whence the name -
and the chocolate is excellent. There is a large port, Or rather {mall
bay, on the Pacific, that of Nicoya, or the gulf de las Salinas, noted
for the pearl fifhery, and for the fhell fifth which dyes purple; while
. on the Atlantic is the port called that of Cartago, though at a great
diftance from the town.
Leon is the capital of the extenfive province of Nicaragua, fituated
on a large lake of frefh water, abounding with fihh. It is a bifhopric,
but a town of little importance. Granada * is another little town, on
the great lake of Nicaragua. Both were pillaged by the buccaneers of
America towards the end of the feventeenth century. Realejo is a
{ma'l entrenched town, with an excellent port, “ferving Leon the
capital. ,
The northern provinces, in the centre, prefent no remarkable towns,
the fhores being loaded with fthoals, which impede navigation and
commerce. Campechy, in Yucatan, pofleffes neverthelefs a tolerable
haven, defended by three forts, and not a little frequented. The town
is fmall, with two or three churches and convents ; chief trade dying
woods, wax, and cottons. ‘T'ruxillo, in Honduras, alfo deferves
mention. a
Ciudad Real is the capital of Chiapa, and a bifhopric, with a
beautiful cathedral, three convents, and a nunnery. The trade cho.
eolate, cotton, wonl, fugar, and the precious cochineal, a peculiar
rodué&t, which does not feem to extend much farther to the fouth,
The population is infignificant, but many families pretend to great
antiquity. The women were accuftomed to take chocolate in the
church, till the bifhop iffued his excommunication againft this
practice.
The city of Guatimala has been already defcribed. Among the
fmall diftri€ts forming what is called the province of Guatimala in the
maps, the chief town of Socenufco is Guegestion, -Sonfonate con.
tains about‘one thoufand nine hundred fouls, fourteen hundred being
Spanifh. Near it are three volcanoes, and the high ridge of Apaneca,
running many leagues E. and W.
The town of Oaxaca, formerly called Guaxaca and Antequera, the
capital of the province of the fame name, is celebrated for abundant
harvetts. of cochincal. . M. Thiery, who vifited this city in 1777,
defcribes the fituation as truly magnificent, at the opening of three
large plains, one of which, according to our author, extends to the
town of Guatimala, @ prodigious diftance. It is watered by a beau.
tiful river, while on the N. E. feveral aqueduéts bring pure and
abundant waters from the mountains. The air is clear and healthy,
being refrefhed in the morning by the eat wind, and by the wef
in the evening. His thermometer, that of Bourbon, was at 16° above
the freezing point in the mornings and 22° atnoon, This was towards
the end of the month of May; but he adds, that the climate prefented
a perpetual fpring, though in the latitude of 20°: he fhould have faid
r7° 30’, but according to Alcedo 18° 2’. In fine, adds Thiery,
magnificence of fituation, artificial beauty, excellence of foil, tempers.
@ Exroneoufly called Nicaragua in our maps, while there ts 1.0 town of that name.
wre
ture of the cli:
conftant fucceffi
Oaxaca an ench:
fpires and dome
oblong fquare, -
two miles by o
full of gardens,
of caétus, whic
ftraight, well Pp
ftone. The toy
with a ftone of z
dral form two o
as ufual in Spar
fun. The othe
folidly built, anc
governor fubordi
the province belc
pring Indians,
ut he has certai
families ; and Al
and that in 1766
but many were |
ina family, the |
vince of Oaxaca
Guatimala, and,
chocolate. The:
a fruit are ingenia
however fubjeét
lait that happened
Tehuacan, or a¢
Oaxaca and Oriz
the fame name,
petrifying a natu
our churches; «
modern, The c
pomegranates are
niards and mulatta
M. Thiery appro
there are two whe
After pafling t
been already defc
a confideratle to
five hundred fam
begun in 1738, i
Palquaro is the ca
city, more briefly
Valladolid, in a ph
leagues, or forty
* Thiery, i. 196.
t Thiery efimates
mn at 400, Humb.
mong the produd
late, planeatee, Cochin
moft of the rivers roll
tt the want of induftry j
SPANISH DOMINIONS. an
ture of the climate, abundance of fruits of Europe and America in
conftant fucceffion — nothing but {uperior induftry is wanting to render
Oaxacaanenchanting city. The interior correfponds with the numerous
fpires and dome’, which give a majeftic appearance. The form i8 an
oblong fquare, about fixteen hundred fathom by one thoufand, (nearly
two miles by one and a quarter,) including the fuburbs, which are
full of gardens, and of nopaleries, that is, plantations of nopals, a kind
of caétus, which feeds the cochineal infeét. The ftreets are wide and
ftraight, well paved ; and the houfes, of two floors, are built of free-
fone. The town houfe in the great fquare, a recent ere@tion, is built
with a ftone of a fea-green colour. The bifhop’s houfe and the cathe-
dral form two other fides of the fame fquare, furrounded with arcades,
as ufual in Spanifh towns, an ufeful practice againft the rain and the
fun. The other churches and monafteries, which are-numerous, are
folidly built, and richly decorated. There is a bifhop and a provincial
governor {ubordinate to the governor of Guatimala, to which audience
the province belongs*. Our author adds, that the population, com-
rifing Indians, mulattoes, and negroes, is about fix thoufand fouls ;
a he has certainly miftaken the Spanifh computation, which is by
families ; and Alcedo informs us, that there are fix thoufand families 3
and that in 1766 there were more than twenty thoufand communicants,
but many were probably from the conatry. Suppofing four perfons
ina family, the number would be twenty-four shantend >, The pros
vince of Oaxaca is efteemed the moft fertile of the whole kingdom of
Guatimala, and, befides cochineal, produces an abundance of excellent
chocolate. There are manufactories of black wax ; and the kernels of
a fruit are ingenioufly painted with miniatures. This celebrated city is
however fubjeét to earthquakes, and fuffered confiderably during the
lat that happened in New Spain f{.
Tehuacan, or according to fome Teguacan, is a pleafant town between
Oaxaca and Orizava. It is feated in a deli heful vale, near a river of
the fame name, called alfo Rio Grande, of a nitrous quality, and fo
etrifying a nature, that the fhores refemble ruinous walle here are
a churches; and the ftreets, fquares, and houfes are neat anf
modern. The chief market is of wheat, which is excellent, and,the
pomegranates are highly efteemed. Befides numerous families of Spa.
niards and mulattoes, there are about two thoufand and eighty Indians.
M. Thiery approached this town on his journey-to Oaxaca; and fays
there are two wheat harvefts, one in May, the other iz September.
After paffing the central provinces, of which the chief towns have
been already defcribed, we arrive at Mechoacan, or rather Valladolid,
a confideratle town, but without beauty or trade, there being onl
five hundred families, of Spaniards and mulattoes. The cat edral,
begun in 1738, i9 of the Tufcan order. But the city of Utzila
5 in is the capital of the eeenens and feat of the governor. This
city, more briefly named Pafquaro, is nine leagues to the S. W. of
Valladolid, in a pleafant Gituation to the fouth of a great lake, twelvs
leagues, or forty-eight Britifh miles in circumference, ftudded with
* Thiery, i. 126.
t Thiery eftimates the population of Oaxaca at 6000, but the enumeration of 1799
ge 24,400, Humb. 265, :
t Among the produéts of the province are named by Eftalla (ugar, cotton, rice, ehoco~
late, plantains, cochineal, enffia; there are inines of gold, filver, lead, and eryftal ; and
moft of the rivers roll particles of gold, xxvii, 93, He wt the faune time expreffes his regret
tt the want of induftry im the inhabicanws,
pleafant
606 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
ete ifles, and fo abundant in fifh, as to fupply ‘n part the city of
xico, The population is five hundred families of Spaniards and
mulattoes, and two thoufand families of Indians, chiefly occupied in
{ugar mills, and in the copper mines which are in the vicinity.
Zacatecas, the. capital of a diftri&t formerly celebrated for the’
richeft_ minés of New Spain, has declined with thefe mines, and
Guanajuato, about a hundred and forty Britifh miles to the S. E. has
become the chief feat of mineral wealth. Zacatecas contained about
twelve thoufand families of Spaniards and mingled breeds, though
confifting chiefly of one ftreet, in a deep paflage between high rocks
crowned with cottages. San Luis de Potofi on the S. E.. is faid by
Alcedo to contain only fixteen hundred families of Spaniards, mu.
lattoes, and Indians, though it has fix magnificent churches. The
ridge of St. Peter, five learues from the city, contained rich mines of
gold and filver, but they are now in part exhaufted, and the fuel has
become fcarce. The opulence of this city has in courfe declined, and
the chief trade is in goat fkins and tanned leather. Guanajuato has
‘not profited by this decline, being merely a mining ftation, between the
two capital towns of Guadalaxara and Queretaro. '
The furtheft town of any note, towards the north, is Durango, more
remarkable for the extent of the bifhopric than for its population, which
only confifts of five thoufand in all, even comprifing the companies of
militia to defend it againft the Indians, ftill almoft the fole inhabitants
of the kingdom of New Bifcay, of which it is the capital. The climate
is benign and healthy, and the foil extremely fruitful in wheat, maize,
and fruits, while the paftures abound with excellent cattle. There are
four convents and three churches, oné of them on a hill without the
city. There is here an office of the royal treafury, to colle& the
duties on the numerous mines in New Bifcay. The bifhopric was
founded in 1620, and is of a prodigious extent, over the whole pro-
vinces of New Bifcay, that is, Tepeguana, T'araumara, Topia, Batopilas,
Culiacan, Cinaloa, Oktimuri, Sonora, Pimeria.
It has already been mentioned, that the northern provinces cannot be
faid to be peopled by the Spaniards, who have merely eftablifhed
religious mifions among the favages. (The garrifon of Arifpe*, in
Sonora, was the refidence ‘of the commander in chief of the northern
provinces +, Who has latterly refided at Chihuahua, which was founded
in 1691, population about 7000. There are three or four churches,
and a military academy.
"Even Santa Fé, the capital of New Mexico, is rather a villaze than
a town, but deferves defcription on account of its fingular and remote
pofition, being computed by the Spanifh authors at the diflance of
fix hundred leagues, two thoufand four hundred Britith miles to the
N. of the capital city of Mexico, It was founded in 1682, on the
{kirts of a high chain of mountains, giving birth to a clear river abound.
ing in excellent trout. ‘his river iffues from a lake formed by nu-
merous {prings on the fummit ofthe mountain, and paffes through the
middle of the town, which in lat 36°, has a climate refembling Spain,
with feafonable rain and fnow; the fpring being mild, while the
fumimer heats mature cotton in abundance. The nopulation confils
of three hundred Spanith families ; the Indians .: that diltri&t having
® At Arifpe the table utenfils are moftly of gold ; and the inhabitants celebrated for thet
wthanity. Pike.
“# Mutillon, 43.
no
no defire to liv
territory is cle;
garden plants,
aremade. ‘'T'h
horfes, cattle,
rifing, it is fai
margins are ac
with excellent
tall barren pine:
other trees are |
excellent timbe
of 250 miles.
and particularly
to our author,
moofe deer; 7]
the expence of
called Cumanch
Apaches.
: Mr. Pike’s ac
é proper to '
forced i. vifit F
Spanifh territory
River del Norte
prepared for en
evening, It is ;
down from the
length on the ¢
ftreets in. width.
with the fame ¢
feen in the {pri
are two churche
contraft to the r
of the town is th
public {quare is
18 fituated the pe
ihn for gua
the clergy and p
the front, fome
ftreets to -be ver
lation is 4:5°0 fo
Sante Fé ftand
Norte. The ho
and have a very
richly furnithed,
he next tow
Paffo del Norte.
In the province
a ftation or two
de Bejar is rega
* The favaces on ¢
Tiburon), the Mogu
tillon, p. 4}
, t Near Santa Fé ¢
da the windows of that
ving
leit
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
607
no defire to live in the fame town with their mafters, . The furrounding
territory is clear of woods, fertile and pleafant, producing wheat, maize,
garden plants, fruits, and particularly grapes, of which efteemed wines
aremade. The paftures are well watered, and well replenifhed with
horfes, cattle, and fheep: the Rio Bravo fpreads fertility around,
rifing, it is faid, fifty leagues to the N. W. of the capital, and its
margins are adorned with beautiful woods, while the ftream abounds
with excellent fifh. The neighbouring mountains are cloathed with
tall barren pines, and with a {maller fort, which bears large cones; the
other trees are oaks of different kinds, {apines, and others, which form
excellent timber. But in the fouthern part of the province is a defart
of 280 miles. ‘The animals are deer, bears, wolves, foxes, wild fheep,
and particularly ftags of the fize of a mule, of which the horns, according
to our author, are not lefs than two yards in length, probably the
moofe deer. There are mines of tin, which however do not defray
the expence of working, The province is infefted “i a tribe of favages
called Cumanches*, and the fouthern part by the till more ferocious
Apaches.
Mr. Pike’s account of Santa Fé will be found interefting. It may
be proper to ‘premife that this ingenious and fpirited traveller was
forced to vifit it againft his will, having unexpectedly paffed into the
Spanifh territory by having miftaken, amid the fnowy mountains, the
River del Norte for the Red River. ‘* Here we changed horfes and
prepared for entering the capital, which we came in fight of in the
evening. It is fituated along the banks of a {mall creek, which comes
down from the mountains, and runs weft to the Rio del Norte; its
length on the creek may be eftimated at one mile, and is but three
ftreets in. width. But its appearance froma diftance ftruck my mind
with the fame effect as a fleet of the flat bottomed boats, which are
feen in the {pring and fall feafons, afcending the Ohio river. There
are two churches, the magnificence of whole iteeples forms a ftriking
contraft to the miferable appearance of the other houfes. On the fide
of the town is the {quare of foldiers: houfes, forty on each fide. The
public {quare is in the centre of the town, on the north fide of which
is fituated the palace (as they term it) or government-houfe, with the
snes for guards, &c. The other fide of the fquare is occupied by
the clergy and public offices. In general the houfes have a thed before
the front, fame of which have a-flooring of brick ; this occafions the
treets to-be very narrow, fay in general 25 feet, The fuppofed popu-
lation is 4,5¢0 fouls.””
Sante Fé ftands on a fmall ftream which flows into the river Del
Norte. The houfes are generally only one ftory high, with flat roofs,
and have a very mean appearance on the outfide, but fome of them are
richly furnifhed, efpecially with plate +.
The next towns worth notice in the province are Albuquerque and
Paffo del Norte.
In the province of Texas, which properly forms. part of Louifiana, .
a ftation or two may deferve mention, The garrifon of San Antonio '
de Bejar is regarded as the eapital of the province of Texas, alfo
* The favages on the weft of New Mexico ‘are the Seris (who a'fo poffels the ifle of
Tibaron), the Mogquis, and Apaches ; on the eaft the Lipanes and Cumanehes. An-
tillon, p. 41,
t Near Santa Fé there is a ftratum of tale in a mountain, which is ufed inftead of glafs
ia the windows of that town, and feveral villages in the north, — Pike,
7 ridiculoufly
608 _ SPANISH DOMINIONS.
ridiculoufly called the New Philippines. It was founded in 1731
confifting of a captain, a lieutenant, and one company of foldiers, ‘
*« St. Antonio, the capital of the province of ‘I xagy lies in 29° so!
N. lat. 101° W. long, and is fituated on the'head waters of the river of
that name, and perhaps contains two thoufand fouls, the moft of whom
refide in miferable mud-wall houfes covered with thatch grafs roofs,
The town is laid out on a very grand plan. ‘othe E. of it o1 the
other fide of the river is the ftation of the troops. About two, three,
and four miles from St. Antonio are free miffions, formerly flourithing
and profperous.
even majefty, were furpaffed'by few that I met with in New Spain*,.”
Our enterprifing author adds, that Nacogdoches is merely a {tation
for troops, and contains nearly 500 fouls; it is fituated on a {mall ftream
of the river Toyac-.
The ftation of Cenis, which Alcedo pelurey afcribes to Louifiana,
is now a mere Indian village, with the ruins of a fort built by the French,
That called Nachitoches, from an Indian tbe, friends of the French,
and enemies of the Spaniards, was a fmall fort, built in an ifland of the
Red River by fome French veterans. ' But the ftation of Adayes, or
Adaes, was regarded by the Spanith writers themfelves as the extreme
fortrefs in this quarter; it was feated in a fertile country, at the diftance
of two leagues from a lake of the fame name, which abounds in fh,
In the middle of the lake, in front of the garrifon, there is a hill, or
rock, of a pyramidal form, more thay one hundred yards in circum.
ference, the ftone of which it is compofed, refembling cry ital in its
reflection of the folar rays, and it is at the fame time the higheit in the
diftrict. In fome parts this lake is five leagues in diameter, and
may be ten in circumference, with a gulf which may be navigated by
large veffels, and could not be founded with a rope of one hundred and
eighty fathoms. The vicinity abounds in wild cattle, bears, and
beavers ; and the foil is fertile in maize and.other grain. The garrifon,
ufed to confift of acaptain, with a company of fifty-feven men.
Epirices.} The chiefedifices are the cathedrals, churches, and
convents, as may be expected where the clergy are fo predominant, '
that civil archite&ture, and civil affairs, are almoft entirely negleed.
The cathedral of Mexico is regarded as the molt fplendid, It is of
great fize, divided into five naves or avenues, three open for the
poe and two containing chapels and altars ; the length being
our hundred geometrical feet, and the breadth one hundred and ninety.
five, with one hundred and fixty-four windows §. The building com.
menced in 1573, and was completed in. 1667, cofting one million feven
hundred and fifty-two thoufand dollars ; in 1743 it was adorned with
a beautiful altar by Balbas, The choir is decorated with four pulpits
or rather gallerics, joined by a railing of what our author ftyles Chinefe
metal, probably tutenague ||, covered with {mall lamps: at great
folemnities the illumination is magnificent, and refleCied by numerous
ornaments of mafly filver. ;
* Pike's Travels. pees) a
+ The moft northern ftation in that querter is Fort Clayborne of the Nachitoches, feven
leagues to the eaft of the ancient fituation of Adayes, On the north-weft of Clayborne is
Spanith lake, in the midft of which is a large rock covered with ftalactites.
appear the French fettlements of Louifiena. — Hiinboldt, 297.
¢ This lake is unknown in all the maps, as is alfv thet of St. Aun, if not the fame.
§ Estalla, xxvi. 273. j
H Inenother place, 262, he calls it akind of tambac,
a ; | Roans.]
Thefe buildings for folidity, accommodation, and _
Afterwards
Roaps.] No
Mexican empire,
neglect ; and the
by Effalla as fuch
length, and even
here tranflated *,.
that, at the end o
as neglected as at
raffments, and a t]
ative and intellige
and the road was
Cordova, and QO
leagues, each leag
eighty leagues amc
high roads of Sp
waited twenty-two
lefs than thirty-five
value of commoditi
eleven dollars. Tt
carriages, while the
employed ; and the
to the capital was n
there 18 only one Jai
ttruéted. The nun
and the expence is p
while, on.a good ro
eight days. On th
beds being a kind
obliged to bring all
ters were ufeds while
According to the la
the new road from
Pucblay ‘and might ¢
betin Europe. It
derful exertion, whe
of the United Stat
Philadephia to New
: Sc erewane
uch confequence,
Indians, There are
equal to the Spanith
aid earthen ware,
periodical publicatio
the manufactures a
Guadalaxara they md
even to Spain, wher
women. In the cit
cloth, fome efteemed
accuitomed to’ keep t
the parent country,
exicoy are highly
. Viagero, xvi, 361.3
, tM. Thiery fays, tha
oufes, fo called hecaufe ¢
miferable lodging for travel
+ Eitalla, savi, 045.9
¢
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 69
Roavs.] No commercial canal appears to have been executed in the
Mexican empire. Even the roads remained in a ftate of complete
neglect ; and the new highway from Vera Cruz to Mexico is regarded
by Eifalla as fuch a furprifing effort, that he has described it at great, |
length, and even repeated his defcription, of which a part fhall be
here tranflated *.. It was, fays he, a difgrate to the Spanifh nation,
that, at the end of two centuries anda half, this read continued to be
asneglected as at the time of the conque‘t, full of dangers and emb: *
raffments, and a thoufand inconveniences. ’. At length, about 1796,
ative and.intelligent viccroy, Branciforte, undertook this great defign §
and the road was begun to be conduéted by Puebia de los Angeles,
Cordova, and Origava. The diltance is about eighty American,
kagues, each league of five thoufand -varas. of Caftille, fo that thé
eighty leagues amount to fifty of thofe meafured and marked on the
high roads of Spain. During this diftance, the caravans of mules
waited twenty-two days in the dry féafon, and during the rains not
les than thirty-five days were employed, fo as greatly to enhance the
value of commodities, a mule’s load from Vera Cruz to Mexico cofting
eleven dollars. Three quarters of the road are plain, and proper for
carriages, while the reft 1s mountainous, fo that no carriage could be
employed ; and the expence of bringing a new coach from Vera Crug
to the capital was not lefs than three hundred dollars. In all this {pace
there is only one large river to pafs, and a bridge might be eafily cons
ttruéted. The riumber of mule loads is about fixty tho fand annually,
and the expence is prodigious where large articles cannot be tranfported
while, on.a good road, waggons might perform the journey in janes or
eight days. On the ancient road the inns were miterable, the only
beds being a kind of tables, as ina barrack, and the traveller was
obliged to bring all his provifions. From Vera Cruz to Perote large lit,
ters were ufeds while from Pcrote to Mexico carriages were employed +,
According to the la& information which Eftalla could procure, in 1798,
the new road from Mexico to Vera Cruz was, already extended tb
Pucblay and might compare in breadth, level, and bridges, with the
bet in Europe. It is to be hoped that it is now completed —a won
derful exertion, when we confider the numerous roads in the territory
of the United States, who have ordered a good cartiage way froth
Philadephia to New Orleans, a diftance of one thoufand miles. !
Manuracrures.] The manufaéturcs of New Spain are not of
much confequyence. Coarfe cottons form the univerfal drefs ef the
Indians. ‘There are many tanneries, but the leather is far from pa
equal to the Spanifh 5 and the fame obfervation will apply to the glafs .
aid earthen ware, although the materials are excellent ft. A cheap
periodical publication, defcribing the arts, machines, and difcoveries in
the manufactures and agriculture would be of fingular utility. In
Guadalaxara they make earthern jars of a {weet fcent, which are brought
even to Spain, where they are fometimes eaten by the caprice of the
women. In the city of Queretaro there. are various manufactures of
cloth, fome efteemed fuperior to thofe of Spain, and the foldiers are
accuftomed to’ keep their, \iniforms, as a {plendid drefs on their teturn to
the parent country. The hams of Toluca, twelve leagues S. W. from
exico, are highly efteemed. In Puebla there are forty-three manus
ce ee
e Viagero, xxvie 3615 969.27. 64. 21 \. ,
+ M. Thiery fays, that the only inns to the fuuthward are the Cujus Realea, or royal
houfes, fo called hecaufe they ferve as courts of Jufiice, while in the night they aifurd «
hniferable lodging for travellers.
+ Eitalle, ‘xavi, 045, 97.2026.
ati faXuyed
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
the deareft isonly fix reals a yard. There
pea ‘ So tenie iad ah osha and one thoufand two hundred and
oe vA A looms tor veils, mantles, and ‘other articles of fine cotton,
bid ined with filk. In the province of Oaxaca there are only two
ati f Gures-of indigo, and five hundred and feven looms employed in
weave cottons. Valladolid has thirty-four manufaétures of wool and
Saitou while Potofi has only one, and Zacatecas none, In the diftri@
of Gu iajiate there are a great number of loom: for woollens, the
Se raft heh nine reals a yard. The manner of weaving appears to be
: Aéile wets Hindoftan, yet the war atl ities sped pape
ti Y En icles, they were imitated with c nfiderab] ;
| and yes BIE Reels tat uited to great perfection. rai a
fee if of plate is carried on to a great extent. Silk is found wild iz
the ‘provtine of Oaxaca. The cochineal, a rich article, belongs to
a th f New Spain is of great extent and
i res ig ee tn Weed eaten ‘condderable improvements,
lich defecve illuftration. The Chinefe pil gy ei taht ue
ilippi ive yearly at Acapulco, nd. wa
sider eee the Ercit eteeth shine of war. While Eftalla
oat Z Bans us of infatiable ambition, he ought rather to mys {aid
eate “Gs which juftice has often been facrificed in a Spanift wan,
The re t monarchs, Charles III. and his fucceffor, the reigning
sli have exerted themfelves fo beneficially in favour of the
prveren colonies, that more has been done during the laft and prefent
aia ooh for the whole preceding period. The liberty of ca
ake : fyftem of fub-delegation, have already produced fuch ad-
pati 4g overcome the weak declamations of thofe interefted x
the wei a monopoly, and the diforders of the political and commercia
i slithme nts Rinerice was formerly regarded merely as a |
or rea . but now all the other branches of gh Mee a
i i i the ye 5
pre Bes ie iin Lhe hot ening eae: Saemaees, the mer.
ea feaing thee ‘they could no longer make fuch exorbitant gains,
ote ther ftock, and laid it out in farms, mines, and mortgages,
ind de to_new {peculators of fmaller. capital) but of greater 7
foegration and who had not been corrupted by exceffive profits ae
wiles rik. The new men were contented with fs ad.
_ without ind did not afpire to found mayorazgos, or entailed ea
peat flablifhments of equal utility to fociety. si ele : cot
fauine eon from the liberty of oat ita a a i
nriched, while the great capita
ing it pode fupport ited abe and oe yorvat tila
reatly increafed. e !
vi Bs ras viet ae We Cruz alone they amounted, in ch a
pl illions twenty-three thoufand eight hundred and eig ve
i “Our author proceeds to explain the beneficial se “ .
oor ig m upon agriculture, which he proves by the increafe o
ates dw on the mines by the increafed quantity of the wir
Dah which offeets are large and apparent. The be get . ts
rn m of thirteen years, co
oi ag sai ihe advantage in favour of the former a:
feos chan fourteen millions of dollars, The schemata ia ¥e
fi bic to the monopolifts of the capital, but phate y . : y bore
Cri to buy their commodities ; an thus alfo are ‘at nty poss
ecnt. payable om entering the metropolis. Seve P br
Sto
alfo avoided ; an
gouds ate not o
abundance, the p
From various
advantages of thi
points of view;
raifing occafional
hands, inftead of
in expenfive founc
are many merchan
without any impe
innumerable, thou
being dependent u
of eafe among the
ancient fyftem, th
extravagant and ca
watte of their-reve
many circumftance:
treafury ; at prefen
theatre of the capita
cleared twelve thou:
edat Vera Ctuz, ar
Ettalla, as alreac
New Spain, or in ot
at three millions an
thirteen and fourtee
does not confume ;
filks, linens, ‘tine we
The importations w
the change of fathic
learned from the def
For example, the pd
to the women of Né
Even the nuns wear
the pooreft. women
cloak, as a thawl in
over the fhoulder,’ 0
They are of filk, o
and one broad ; but
many are e
bordered with gold
fale, filver, and filk
hofe of Puebla fel
Sultepeque and Te
one may coft fifty d
web, and elegance
vevotos, not worth i
be a valuable article
fpurs-are alfo in
plou h-fhares, an
wheels, &c. will alfo
eftablithment of cor
would alfo be augme
in the capital were }
high wages, labour
ee 0 OBO er Ge NDE TN
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 6rt
alfo avoided; and there being a greater concurrence of buyem, the
goods ate not only more fpeedily fold, but being imported in greater
abundance, the prices are confiderably reduced.
From various calculations, which need not here be repeatec. the
advantages of the new fyftem are demonftrated, in various important
points of view; and if the parent country find greater difficulty in
raifing occafional loans, it is becaufe the capitals are difperfed in many
hands, inftead of being confined in a few, who often employed them
in expenfive foundations of religious colleges or convents. Yet there
are many merchants who can difburfe twenty or thirty thoufand dollars,
without any impediment ; and they who can advance {maller fums are
innumerable, though formerly there were none of this laft clafs, all
being dependent upon the monopolifts. Hence alfo a greater appearance
of eafe among the middle claffes, and even the poor; while, under the:
ancient fyftem, the overgrown wealth of a few individuals led them to
extravagant and capricious luxury, and the moft ufelefs and improper
walte of their revenues, The greater diffufion-of wealth appears from
many circumftances. Formerly many tickets of the lottery remained in the
trealury ; at prefent all are fold, becaufe many can afford to buy. The
theatre of the capital, which only ufed to yield fourthoufand pefos, int 792
cleared twelve thoufand three hundredand fix. Int7gtatheatre was open-
edat Vera Cfuz, and one has alfo been erected in the city of Queretaro.
Ettalla, as already mentioned, computes the whole inhabitants of
New Spain, or in other words, the Spanifh dominions in North America,
at three millions and a half; hence, fays he, as the imports are between
thirteen and fourteen million’ of pefos, it will be feen that each perfon
does not confume above four peios, though many. of the articles, as
filks, linens, ‘fine woollen cloths, iron and fteel, are of the firft neceffity.
The importations would be more confiderable, if the merchants {tudied
the change of fafhions, and the general talte, which may in part be
learned from the defcription already iven of the manners and cuftoms:
For example, the panos de rebozo, a kind of veils, are fo indifpenfible
tothe women of New Spain, that they are of the firft confumption.
Even the nuns wear them ; and the mott diftinguifhed ladies, as well as
the pooreft women in the market, ufe the rebozo, as a mantle, asa
cloak, as a fhawl in the ftreet, in the chamber, and in bed ; it is thrown
over the fhoulder, over the head, over the face, or around the waift.
They are of filk, or filk and cotton, about three yards and a half long,
and one broad ; but fome two yards and a half by three quarters and a
half: many are entirely of cotton, fome mingled with filk, fome
bordered with gold and filver; but the moft valued are bordered with
gid, filver, and filk, and are prized according to finenefs and pattern.
hofe of Puebla fell from ten to fifty pefos the dozen; but thofe of
Sultepeque and Temascaltepeque coft at leaft five dollars each; nay,
one may coit fifty dollars, according to the finenefs and quality of the
web, and elegance of the border. The common clafe wear coarfe
reboxos, not worth importation ; but the fineft, faye our author, would
be a valuable article, as labour is far cheaper in Spain. Saddles and
fours-are alfo in great demand, horfes being fo cheap and common ;
ced h-fhares, and other iron articles, and mining utenfils, iron for |
wheels, é&c. will alfo find a y fale. One author recommends the
eftablifhment of commercial {chools as an effential objet. Commerce
would alfo be augmented, if an abufle whicly hae’ already been remedied
in the capital were banifhed from the provinces. The workmen gain
high wages, labour being very dears but inttead of wearing decent
" Rra ‘ cloathing,
Giz: . SPANISH DOMINIONS.
cloathing, they are indecently naked, and ‘employing a few days in
Jabour, waite the reft in drunkennefs, Yet this defe& chiefly arofe
from the want of conftant occupation, in part proceeding from the
former fyftem of regular fleets. But the government retaining a part of
the falary for the purchafe of .cloaths, the workmen in the various
royal manufactures and offices were obliged to adopt gieater decency,
though formerly accutlomed to appear naked even in the cathedral,
In another part of his work Eftalla gives additional information on
this-important fubject. The commerce of the viceroyalty may be
regarded under five diftinct heads; that. with China, or rather the
Philippine iflands, that with Peru, the Weft Indies, Spaing and the ‘
interior of the viceroyalty *. ‘
The firft confifts folely in the fhip, which arrives yearly with five
hundred thoufaud pefos of capital, at prime coft, in the Philippines, but
worth at leaft double the fum in New Spain. . The greater part of the
cargo is in filks,. printed ‘cottons, or chintzes, wax, porcelain, and other
{mall articles. If delayed by ftorms or accidents, the cargo is doubied
in the following year. This trade had declined, but is now re-efta.
blifhed: and the laft thip was computed at two millions of dollars, though
the printed. goods of Catalonia begin to fupplant thofe of Afia. The
company of the Philippines at Gadiz, remitted to Vera Cruz in 1790,
1791, and 1792, ¢oods of thofe iflands to the amount of more than four |
hundred and, fifty thoufand pefos, fo as.to impede the‘ market of thofe
brought to Acapulco: and this new plan may probably fupplant the
ancient, efpeeially in the commandaacy of Guatimala, and the northern
coaft, feparated from Acapulco, by a great diftance of miferable roads,
From this. account it will appear, that when Eftalla wrote, a free trade
was not, eftablifhed between New Spain and the Philippines, though
fome writers have afferted that fuch a regulation had long before taken
lace. ;
" The trade with Peru, alfo condu&ted at Acapulco, is confiderably.
decayed, now confilting chiefly in chocolate, from Guayaquil, to the
amount of about three hundred thoufand pefos, which are remitted in
money.
‘That with the Welt Indies is of greater importance 3. the principal
article of trade with Havanna was wax, but it has declined; in return
were fent leather, foap; cotton, but chiefly grain.
‘The trade with Spain is the beft regulated. The imports, as already
mentioned, amount to about fourteen millions of dollars, while the
exports are computed at three millions and a half ; the refidue of metals,
which do not enter the royal treafury, being computed at five millions;
while a large {um is paid for various offices, the maintenance of the
army, and of manufaGtures, a part being of courfe employed in the
purchafe of Spanifh goods, of which the confumpt is greatly increafed ;
but the one half of the import is thought to be.in brandies. The chief
article acquired from ftrangers is linen, of which there is no important
manufacture in Spain : 10/1793, thts branch amounted, in what are called
bretanas, from, Britanny, in: France, to, one million five hundred and
ninety-five thoufand: five’ hundred and, fifteen pefos; and other linen
-goods to one million feven hundred and feven thoufand eight hundred
cand forty pefos ;. thus exceeding in value all the other foreign articles,
which in that year amounted. to five millions.three hundred and feventy:
eight Dauleae feven hundred and forty-two pefos.
° P ' . od Efialla, xxvii. 206,
The
The interio
_* are neither car
Our author
fpirit of difcoy
evinced that th
in a fecond voy
America ; and
coats of-'Senf
viceroyalty, w!
indolence.
Cowaer. J
through the w
* -obferved, to tw
eighteen million
according to }
Superior opulenc
Climate and Sea/
Rivers. = Lai
Mineralogy. ~-
Cumars.]” J
the temperature ,
Moifture feems t
a inthe South A
rain for nine mo
extreme heat, w
Violent ftorms are
to rife from the g
ever, hot and. un
January+. “The
fent white froft an
climate is mild ar
no artificial warmt
under the open: fl
day, from April {
Thunder is freque
circumftances of te
It has already |
¢ beft accounts i
* D'Auteroche.
+ The climaie of C
Peroufe, ii. 203, «Even
prsudive ot maize, ba
Mexico, in June, Ool
‘the province of Cina
ruins four or five times i
January, when the cold
wirgoa, «Ib; 190, - -
pte
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
The interior trade has hitherto been very infignificant, becaufe there
‘are neither canals nor good roads.
Our author adds, that advantages may be expected from the new
fpirit of difcovery, the fhips called Sutil and Mexicana, after having
evinced that there was no paflage between the Pacific and the Atlantic,
in afecond voyage, 1793,,explored a great part of the N. W. coatt of
America ; and another expedition was planned in 1794, to examine the
coafts of Sonfonate and. Tehuantepec, in the fouthern centre. of the
viceroyalty, which neverthelefs remain almoft unknown to Spanifh
. indolence. ' ried YO
& Coinace.] The coinage and dollars of New Spain are well known
J through the whole commercial world. . It now amounts, as already
| + obferved, to twenty-fix millions of pefos, while it , was formerly about
: eighteen millions. That of all the Spanifh dominions.of South America,
F according to Helms, does not exceed ten. millions, whence the far
fuperior opulence of New Spain is eafily perceivable.
dd io
CHAPTER IV.
: ; NATURAL GEOGRAPHY. .
ie Climate and Seafons. —Face of the Country. — Soil and Agriculture.
he Rivers. — Lukes. — Mountains. —:Fore/is. —~ Botany. — Zoology. —
ay Mineralogy. — Mineral-Waters.— Natural Curiofiies,
ds, : ee ; ‘Le
: "THE climate of this interefting country is fingularl
a Cumare. | divertfified, between the sropisel Geatons ahd valny ah
. the temperature of the fouthern and even: middle countries of Europe.
ee Moifture feems to predominate in the Ifthmus, but not to fuch a degree:
| as inthe South American province of Darien, where it may be faid to:
i rain for nine months of the year. The rains, however, temper the
rf extreme heat, which would otherwife be intolerable in this. climate.-
Violent ftorms are’ not unfrequent ; and fometimes: the lightning feems
I to rife from the ground *, The maritime diftriéts of Mexico, are, how-
‘a 4 ever, hot and unhealthy, fo as to occation much perfpiration even in
Januaryt. “The inland mountains, on the contrary, will fometimes: pre-:
climate is mild and benign, with fome momentary {now in winter, but
no artificial warmth is found neceffary, and animals fleep all the year
under the open: fky. There: are plentiful rains, generelly after mid«
day, from April till September; and hail ftorms are not unknown,
Thunder ig frequent, and the earthquakes and volcanoes are additional
circumftances of terror.
.1t has already been feen that the climate of the capital, though by:
the beft accounts in the latitude of 19° 25’, differs greatly from that of
* D'Auteroche. " “+h Clavigero, i. 11... He was | imfelfa native of Vera Cenz,
¢ The climaie of California is mild but fogzy, and the foil remarkably fertile. La
Peroufe, ii, 203, -Liven.northere. Califarnias.ag far as Monterey, is by his account fingularly
rodudtive of maize, barley, and peas, Careri, vi 35, Fr. tr. days there ave three harvetis in
Mexico, in June, Oftober, and the aventurera, or accidental one, upon the mountains,
‘the province of Cinaloa is'very dry, but well watered by rivers.” “ On the ‘coat it ftarcely
nins four wr five times in the year, apd*the weather is very Warm, ‘except in December and
January, when the cold is extreme. ° Eftalla, xxvii. 197. The chief mining ftation there is
Bivirjoa, “Ibs 1dO, <0 os ;
y er
Rrg the
TK
fent white froft and ice in the dog days. In other inland provinces the:
Rie ae Sapa Aa ee Se: iS Sige ‘ =
a nn er TE Cn er aE ee ST oe
Sn
« ne : 7 ‘a
a é each ck koe ees ae sage nity ~ ctcnmaoupinibor AEE _ -
seeps hereto tgtntr~seatmin mention tntnntmarnn tient ttn tice tener ey tment ei tt nett Sx od
¥ a
614 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
the parts of Afia and Africa, which are under the fame parallel. This
difference feems chiefly to arife from the fuperior height of the ground,
a new obfervation ity geography. Humboldt found that the vale of
Mexico is about 6960 Feet above the level of the fea, and that even
the inland plains are generally as high as mount Vefuvius, or about
3600 fect. Such ftandards have hitherto been applied only to moun.
tains ; and one of the laft improvements of the fcience is their applica.
tion to plains and valleys. This fuperior elevation of courfe tempera
the climate wich a greater mixture of cold. Yet in the parts to the
north of Guadalaxara, where the high chain of Topia runs north from
the neighbourhood of that city, for a fpace of a hundred and fifty
leagues, or about fix hundied Englith miles, as far as New Mexico, the
rains are continual the whole day, from the month of June to September;
and in the province of Tabafco, the rains are perpetual for nine months
of the year*. The fouthern coafts are equally affected ; while, as climate
depends more upon elevation and depreffion, than upon imaginary zones,
the interior of the country prefents furprifing varieties and unexpected
fingularities +. Nor can it be regneded as unhealthy, as the aborigines
fometimes attain a great age; and grey hairs, baldnefs, or wrinkles, are
unknown till a very late period of life. But though they are exempted
from paying tribute after the age of fixty, yet they can rarely count
the years of their exiftence, and they cannot always be traced in the
parifh regifterst. In the year 1779, there was living in the jurifdiction of
San Juan de los Llanos, an Indian, who had a fon aged between a hundred
and twelve aud a hundred and twenty, a grandfon aged ninety, and what
is equally furprifing, a fon about nine years of age. It was propofed to
bring him to the capital, but as the change of diet and climate might
have been fatal, he was left in his parifh, where unhapily there were no
regifters at the time of his birth. This, with other inftances, may ferve
to evince, that the prejudices of fome philofophers (for philofophers
have their prejudices) againft the climate and produétions of America,
are unfounded. If there be any where a marked inferiority in eve
refpeét, of climate, men, animals, and vegetables, it is in Africa, a mo
ancient part of the ancient world, that it muft be fought.
The climate has generally a ruling influence over the difeafes of a
country. .Some hints have already been given concerning thofe of the
capital, The yellow fever, or what is called the black vomit, has been
repeatedly, during the la century, one of the moft fatal maladies ; but
the phyficians of the United States have certified, that this peftilence is
confined to fea ports, and never paffes inland. ‘lhe Spaniards have
obferved, that the ufe of falted provifions is noxious, and renders the
contagion more eafy ; but the chief preventative is extreme cleanlinels
i the ftreets and quays, and the removal of all offenfive accumu
ations.
Facz oF THe Country.} The general appearance of thefe exten.
five regions is at once fingular and greatly diverfified. bm: M.
Thiery had paffed the ridge of Orizava, proceeding towards the fouth,
he found that nature affumed quite a new afpect,
Groves of new pomp end rpepde of other flowers y
eo
® Bilalla, savii. 109. 106. In New the rainy feafan beging in June and ends iq
Septet Chhutina Ke ede Be
t
allowr,'p. 956, that the ufo of the sones, a9 temperate, torrid, &e. is
improper — Why then attempt to reftore them,. when they have been difmiffed from
geogmphy? 7 $ Eftalle, amyl. 940, 0 ihe
wy
the vegetable d
heliotropes, tra
aloes thirty feet
guey, of equal
with hedges of
nias, with yello
while the fides «
nature of what
landfcape. T're
or fix in circu:
by a feries of o
delier, fo as fo,
diameter, and ec
green colour... '
crimfon pulp ; |
thorns, is danger
of thefe plants,
dians Grand r
covered with
pencil of Rofa,
rivers, romantic
tables of Europ
country,
Soir.—Acati
ing fertility, and
pulation be, as w
years made confic
Since greater fr
rich monopolifts
The progrefs ma
in the archbitho;
amounted to fo
hundred and thi
they rofe to fer
feventy-nine pefo
fifty thoufand tw:
the former proc
pears in the bitho
which, with Valla
confidered, Guat
tythes ftand thus
Archbifho
Bihhopric
Oaxaca
Guadalax
Durango
Our author h
fuppofe the whole
years, we have at
°M. Th 7s.
t Ehales card 9;
ow O'S ww & SF & 8
ano”
SPANISH DOMINIONS, 6g
the vegetable decoration being of furprifing beauty *. Rare: geraniums,
heliotropes, tradefcantias, &c. appeared under the yuccas, a kind of
aloes thirty feet in height, while the moft numerous plant was the ma-
guey, of equal fingularity and utility. The highways are bordered
with hedges of the tenfitive plant. Further on he found fuperb digno-
nias, with yellow flowers, from jixty to one hundred feet in height,
while the fides of the hills were covered with a beautiful ca@us, of the
nature of what we call Indian figs, forming a curious ornament of the
landfcape. Fyrom a trunk of fifteen or fixteen feet in height, and five
or fix in circumference, {pring ftraight branches, which are crowned
by a feries of others, regularly diverging like the branches of a chan-
delier, fo as fometimes to fill'a circumference of forty or fifty feet in
diameter, and equal height, thus refembling a large chandelier of a fea-
green colour.. The fruit, which is i eh ifclofes, when ripe, a
crimfon pulp; but the fall of the leaves, relembling beams full of
thorns, is danyerous to the paflenger. The pitahiahas, a {maller fpecies
of thefe plants, affords a delicious fruit, the common food of the In-
dian. Grand ridges of mountains, numerous volcanoes, fome of them
covered with perpetual fnow, precipices and cataracts worthy of the
pencil of Rofa, delicious vales, fertile plains, piste lakes and
rivers, romantic cities and villages, an union of the trees and veges
tables of Europe and America, contribute to diverlify this interefting
country.
wan OA, The foil is often a deep clay, of furprif-
ing fertility, and requiring no manure fave. irrigation. Though the po-
pwation be, as we have feen, extremely thtin, yet agriculture has of late
years made confiderable progrefs, at leaft in the eyes of Spanifh authors.
Since greater freedom has been granted to commerce, many of the
rich monopolifts have employed their funds in the cultivation of land.
The progrefs may partly be judged from the ftate of the tythes, which
in the archbifhupric of Mexico, for ten years, from 1769 to 1779,
amounted to four millions one hundred and thirty-two thoufand tie
hundred and thirty pefos; while for the ten years, from 1779 to 1789
they rofe to feven millions. eighty-two thoufand eight hundred and
feventy-nine pefos; the difference being two millions nine hundred and
fifty thoufand two hundred and forty-nine pefos, or more than half of
the former proceeds+. A fimilar difference, though not fo great, ap-
pears in the bithoprics of Puebla, Oaxaca, Guadalaxara, and Durango,
which, with Valladolid, embrace the whole viceroyalty of Mexico, ftriétly
confidered, Guatimala being regarded as a diftinct kingdom, The
tythes ftand thus: ;
Archbifhopric of Mexico © + «+ 7,082,879
Bifhopric of Puebla ° « - e 31239,400
Oaxaca - : ° . 863,28
Guadalaxara ” * ° ‘es 239.79, 10
Durango > . “ - 1,080,313
(Se
141844987
Our author has omitted the valuation of Valladolid, but if we
fuppofe the whole tythes to amount to fixteen millions of pefos in ten
years, we have at the fame time, 4 rough calculation of the value of
©. Thiery, 1. 75, 09,
t Efsla, aavil, 9; but, p. 10, he fays the difference is 4,996,664,
Rr4 agrie
616 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
agricultural produéts, which, including the kingdom ‘of Guatimala,
may very probably amount to the yearly fum of twenty millions *,
Near Guadalaxara is the celebrated eftate of the marquis of Alta.
mira, about forty leagues in extent, which fends annually to Mexico be,
tween three and four thoufand beeves. It is alfo very productive of
wheat, pimento, &c. with numerous flocks of fheep and {wines but
markets are wanting. The eftate however might yield forty thoufand
pefosa year+. ‘The moft fertile part of the central plain extends from
Queretaro to the town of Leon.
The produé& of cotton might be greatly increafed, there being a
fuperabundance of land proper for that purpofe. Flax and hemp are
neglected, becaufe other produéts prefent greater.gains, more eafe, and
fecurity. Of indigo there are annually exported one thoufand five
hundred arrodas, and eight thoufand quintals of pimento. The cul.
tivation of fugar is greatly increafed, and the augmentation of the
rice in Europe has rendered the trade confiderable. Tobacco wag
Introduced in 1765, and has become a moft important branch. Vine.
yards form-a new obje& of great promife. The celebrated cochineal jg
rather an obje&t of horticulture, and requires confiderable attention,
The plant is a peculiar fpecies of ca&ius, called nopal, and the infed
is peculiar to the plant, being very fmali and enveloped in a white film,
but when crufhed, the beautiful carmine or crimfon appears. The pro.
prgation of this plant, which is about eight feet in height, is performed
branches, but for a long journey the roots alone can be trufted t,
he infect is dried before it becomes an article of commerce ; and the
‘annual exports are computed by Eftalla at twenty-three thoufand fix
hundred arrobas. By another computation the quantity of cochineal
exported to Spain is four hundred and fixty thoufand pounds, cuttin
in New Spain about twelve fhillings a pound, and yielding at Cadiz
about thirteen or fourteen fhillings§. The people employed in: this
culture are computed between twenty-five and thirty thoufand ; and the
value of the trade, to the province of Oaxaca, is reckoned one million
of pefos, but the cultivator does not gain above nine per cent.
Pe divifion of land is far more unequal than in Spain itfelf, there
being eftates equal in extent to provinces or {mall kingdoms ; but this
circumftance is not fo detrimental as it would prove in Europe, the
Fndians being very flothful, and thewing little {pirit in cultivation,
They are encouraged to form villages by liberal grants of land, but
there are few who avail themfelves of this favour, and they are fond of
fpeedier gains, as cutting woods, making charcoal, &c. an indelible
effet of their character and manner of thinking, for with them to.
day is all, and to-morrow nothing. Qur author however concludes,
that the produce of many articles has been tripled within thefe few
years, fuch as indigo, cotton, pimento ef Tabafco, and above all, the
recious cochineal ; while tillage, and the rearing of herds and flocks,
as been far more univerfally diffuled.
® Our author adds, that in the ten left years agriculture, and tlie ftores of catih,
fheep, and fwine, have increafed nine times; and the total increafe of agriculture, durug
the luft epoch, is of the value of 49,966,640 pefos in the fole article of tythes. How is
this to be underftood ? It is in fadt the difference of the tythes (p. 10), multiplied ly tev,
which gives the advance of the eftimate’of agriculture in general during ten years, uot that
of the tythes.
+ Fftalla, xxvii. 102.
~ See the curious work of M, Thiery on the culture of the nopal, which accom:
panies his journey to Oaxaca, § Thicry, lax.
Ruyers.]
' pale
all comparife
courfe of this
may be abou
ceeds that of
appearances —
Alcedo only
that of Texa:
Between this
gulf of Mex:
Guadalupe, t
chez and Sabi
a prodigious {
the Arkenfa a
Mififfippi, _ .
By the Spa
1801, it appe:
vefton, which
which the fett
in this chart, ¢
the Chicowanf
But there is 1
thefe rivers, Lc
regarded it as
by the Englitt
the Red Rive
enormous Red
reputed bounda
States,
Major Pike’s
rivers on the N
The cotton
fource to wher
often bounded }
than 1980 mil
the mountains,
By the Ark
might be opene
carriage not éxd
* The fource
tains with the
refervoir of {na
fide to the Rec
Miffouri (its g
fouth-weltern fi¢
* The fource of
procured in the y.
expedition againg ¢
50', when the favag
ridge called Grulles,
Fé. The fource is
conftane if tution
In 1896 Cape. Pi
hisnfelf on the Rio d
fhe cult of the lake o
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 617
prea The principal river of Spanith North America is, beyond
all comparifon, that called del Norte, or of the northern ftar. The
courfe of this important river, fo far as its fources can yet be conjeftured,
may be about 1000 Br:tith miles; for its whole circuit probably ex-
ceeds that of the Danube. ‘The nature of the fhores, and the various
appearances and qualities of the waters, have not. been illuftrated.
Alcedo only informs us that it divides the province of Coaguila from
that of Texas, which laft is in fact a part of the ancient Louifiana *,
Between this river and the Mifliffippi, the chief rivers that join the
ulf of Mexico, are the Nueces, the -Mariana, and St. Antonio,
Guadalupe, the Red River of Texas, the Braffos, the Trinity, Nat-
chez and Sabina. But befides the river Platte (Plata of the Spaniards),
a prodigious ftream which joins the Miffouri, two other enormous rivers;
the Arkenfa and Red River, crofs Louifiana from W. to E. to join the
Mififfippi. ;
By the Spanith furvey of the gulf of Mexico, republifhed at Paris
1801, it appears that ‘the Arcokifas ends in a noble bay, called Cal-
vetton, which is unknown to Alcedo. The river bap neav
which the fettlement.of Adayes is commonly placed, does not appear
in this chart, the name beigg fupplanted by that of Mermentas, while
the Chicowanth of Arrowfmith is the river De Nieves of the Spaniards,
But there is no fmall uncertainty and change“in the nomenclature of
thefe rivers, Louifiana having been little explored by the Spaniards, who
regarded it asa frontier defart between their colonies and thofe fettled
by the Englifh. The chief rivers however appear ta be the Nueces,
the Red River of Texas (which has been confounded with the
enormous Red River), the Trinity, and the Sabina, at prefent the
reputed boundary between the Spanifh territory and that.of the United
States. ;
Major Pike’s travels have thrown great light on the geography of the
rivers on the N. E. . :
The cotton wood abounds on the river Arkenfa, which, from its
fource to where it leaves the mountains, a diltance of 170 miles, is
often bounded by perpendicular precipices. It is navigable for not lefs
than 1980 miles from its éntrance into the Mif_iffippi to its exit from
the mountains. :
‘By the Arkenfa and the Colorado of California, the communication
might be opened between the Atlantic and the Grand Ocean, the land
carriage not exceeding 2¢.: miles. s
« ‘The fource of the La Platte is fituated in the fame chain of moun-
tains with the Arkenfa (fee Chart), and comes from, that grand
refervoir of fnows and fountains which gives birth on its north-eaftern
fide to the Red River, the Yellow Stone River of Lewis, and of the
Miffouri (its great fouth-weftern branch), and the La Platte. Qn its
fouth-weltern fide, it produces the Rio Colorado of California, on its
* The fource of the Rio del Norte is laid down in Antillon’s map, from information
procured in the year 1779, where the governor of New Mexico, De Anfa, male an
expedition againit the favazes called Cumanches, and on the 23d of Auguft was at 38°
do', when the favages informed him that the river rote fifteen leagues to the N, W. in the
ridge called Grullas, which belongs to the ea:terly chain, in the neighbourhood of Santa
Fé. The fource is in a morafs, which not only abounds in fprings, but is fed by the
conftant Miffilution of faow from adjacent volvanves, Antillon, Pp 44. i
In 1896 Capt. Pike, in fearchimg for the fources of the Red River, unexpedtedly found
himfelf on the Rio del Norte, Humboldt fays, the Rio del Norte rifes in Sierra Verde, ot
the cult of the lake of Fimpanogos, its cousfe being computed at 342 leaguese r
eaft
rR —SSSS Ss er pews 52 =
ee ae
ee gets ee ie
9
618 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
eaft the Arkenfa, and on its fouth the Rio del Norte of North Mexico
T have no hefitation in afferting I can take a pofition in the mountaing
from whence I can vifit the fource of either of thefe rivers in one day,”
«© The river Saint Adtonio takes its fource about one league’ to the
N. E. of the capital of the province (St. Antonio), and is navigable
for canoes to its fource, affording excellent’ fifth, fine fituations for
mills, and water to every part of the town. It is joined by the River
Mariana from the W. (which forms pait of the line between Cogquilla
(Cohahuila) and Texas) and then difcharges itfelf into the Rio
Guaddlupe, about 50 miles fromthe fea. At'the town of St. Antonio,
it is about 20 yards wide, and in fome places twelve feet indepth. The
river Guadalupe takes its fource about 150 miles to the north-weft of
St. Antonio, where we croffed it. It was a beautiful ftream of at leat
60 yards in width. Its waters are tranfparent, and navigable for canoes,
After receiving the waters of St. Antonio and St. Mark, it difcharges
itfelf into the S, W. end of the bay of St. Bernard. Att the croffing of
this river there is a range for the horfes of St. Antonio, and a Guard de
Caballo, with an elegant fite for a town.”?
The river St. Mark rifes about 20 miles to the weft of St. Antonio,
and is navigable for canues, The Red River of Texas, which mutt be
carefully diftinguifhed from the great river fo called, rifes in 33° N. lat,
and after a courfe of aUbut 600 miles runs into the bay of-St. Bernard,
Where Pike paffed this ftream, it was at leaft 162 yards wide.
Towards the weft is a large river, the Colorado, which flows into the
Vermillion fea, or gulf of California, alfo called by D’Anville Col.
rado, with the addition de los Martyres ; while Gila is the Rio Grand
de los fe Usagi tant aid appellations impofed by the jefuits, who
had fettlements in California. The courfe of this river may be com.
puted at 600 Britifh miles. This Rio Colorado, or Red River, is fo
called becaufe the waters become of that colour, owing to the rains
falling upon a foil of red clay. It is a deep and copious ftream,
éapable of confiderable navigation *. The neighbouring favages, called
Cocomaricopas, are dextrous in fwimming acrofs, holding in the left
hand a piece of wood, which fupports their arms or burthen, and
fteering with the right, while the women, fupported by a kind of
petticoat of bafket work, upon which they place their children, pal
in like manner. The courte of the Colorado is generally from N. E.
to &. W. fometimes W. It is joined from the .. by a large river
called Gila, which is however every wherefordable. Of the Indian
tribes in this quarter fome accounts fhall be given elfewhere. The
country between thefe rivers is faid to be an ae defart, without
water or pafture, On the other fide of the Colorado the conntry is
faid, on the contrary, to be very fertile, and the natives rather fond of
cultivation. It is believed that confiderable rivers alfo join the Colorado
from the weft ; but if the Spaniards have explored that part of the
country, they conceal their information. °
Purfuing thence a fouthern progrefs, the firft important river which
occurs is the Hiaqui, a large and fertile ftream, which inundates the
neighbouring provinces of Sonora and Oftimurit. Rifing in the
extenfive province of Tauramara, it leaves or pervades the grand chain
of mountains, running about one half of its cowrfe towards the N. W.
after which it purfues the remainder towards the S. W. entering the
gulf of California at the village of Huiribis, where there is a fecare
© Eftalla, yxvii, 141, $ Eftalla, uxvii. 192,
harbous,
harbour, the n
conveyed to th
maize, French t
already mentior
of them pafling
and which {wel
impede the road
land, as in the
quiaro, and Ah
of D’Auville, |
Alcedo in the f
known, but the
Alcedo informs
courfe would fe
fo called from ;
The rg tow:
ina lake. Th
Durango), or th
has been careful
4mportant feature
On returning
river, in fome mw
often repeated a
the river Barnaj:
D’Anville had ‘1
through the large
{mall lake not far
about four hundre
Nearly in the
rifes in the metalli
of Mexico; but t
under which nam
ditri& of Guattec
Tampico is prope
_ The river Tuls
is remarkable in
Atlantic, not the
, Of the Mexican c
land begins to be
inconfiderable,
latter ; and the Y,
On the other fidet
18 a river of confitie
rom two fountain
thofe of Mifteca,
other rivers, it bec
bar called after it
of the firit difcove
ot Yucatan was we
In that part of He
Yare ig full of
Vankez. The riv
munication betweer
the province of Pag
jahansly confiderec
5 om oe
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 619
harbour, the neareft to California, and whence provifions are generally
conveyed to that peninfula. The banks produce abundant harvetts of
maize, French beans, a kind of peas, and lentiles, The high ridge of Topia,
already mentioned, alfo gives fource to other confiderable rivers, fome
of them paffing into the gulf of Mexico, while others-join the Pacific,
and which {well greatly on the melting oe the {nows, which fometimes
impede the roads to the depth of two yards. There is alfo a high table
land, as in the centre of Afia; and the three rivers, Nazas, Papaf-
quiaro, and Ahorcados, are loft in a large lake, probably the {alt lake
of D’Auville, being that of Parras in the ‘aw 4 of Alzate, placed by
Alcedo in the province of Tepeguana. ‘Thefe inland rivers, are little
known, but the Nazas, or Nafas, appears to be the chief ftream ; and
Alcedo informs us, that the banks produce excellent grapes. Ite
courfe would feem to be about two hundred miles. - The Papafquiero,
fo called from a fettlement on its banks, joins the Nafas from the S.
The capital town, Durango, alfo ftands on an inland river, which is loft
in a lake. This river feems to be the Guadiana (another name of
Durango), or the Sauceda of D’Anville, who alone, of all geographers,
has been careful to mark the names of rivers and mountains, the molt
important features of nature,
On returning to the weltern coaft there occurs a very confiderable
river, in fome maps called St. Jago, or the Rio Grande, a name fo
often repeated as to fignify nothing. Evtalla more correétly calls it
the river Barnaja, or Efquitlan, in which he follows Alcedo; and
D’Anville had long fince ftyled it the Barania. This river pailes
through the large lake of Chapala, but its courfe may be traced from a
{mall lake not far from Mexico, whence it purfues a N. W. progrefs of
about four hundred and fifty Britifh miles.
Nearly in the fame latitude an important river, the Panuco, which
rifesin the metallic mountains of San Luis Potofi, flows into the gulf
of Mexico; but this river, in the Spanith charts is ftyled the Tampico,
mnder which name it is defcribed by Alcedo, who has omitted the
ditri& of Guaftecas, ftill retained in the maps. It would appear that the
Tampico is properly the eftuary of the rivers Motezuma and Panuco.
The river Tula, or Motezuma, is not only important in itfelf, but
is remarkable in conduting the waters of the Mexican lakes to the
Atlantic, not the Pacific as has been imagined. It rifes on the W.
_ of the Mexican chain of-mountains. To the S. of the capital the
land begins to be more confined, and the rivers become of courfe more
inconfiderable, Yet the Zacatula approaches in length to the two
latter ; and the Yopez, which alfo joins the Pacific, elerves mention,
On the ather fide the Alvarado, with the numerous divifions of its mouth,
is ariver of confitlerable importance. Alcedo informs us, that it {prings
from two fountains, one in the mountains of Zongolica, the other %
thofe of Mifteca, which join near Cuyotepec, and being. enlarged by
other rivers, it becomes a formidable ftream, and joins the fea at the
bar called after its name. The river Grijalva, fo called from the name
of the firit difcoverer, pervades the province of Tabafco, The Belleze
ot Yucatan was well known to the Englifh baymen orcutters of logwood,
In that part of Honduras called the ae age fhore, the river called
Yare ig full of cataraé&ts; it is called by the Spaniards the river
Vankez. The river of St. Juan is remarkable for the propofed com.
munication between the two feas, while others prefer the river Chagre, in
the province of Panama, South America. This grand {cheme {hall be
jafantly confidered in faleribing the lake of Nicaragua, Bef
: ore
SPANISH DOMINIONS.
Before leaving this fubjeét, regret may be expreffed at the deficiences
of Mexican geography, the beft maps being very imperfect in the
delineation of rivers and mountains; and even the manufcript map by
Humboldt, which the author faw at Paris, appeared little worthy of a
geologift in this important refpe.
Even Humboldt’s publication is rather deficient in the account of the
rivers in New Spain, a defe& which I obferved in the original drawing
of hismap. The following account * is little fatisfactory.
6‘ Among the {mall number of rivers which exift in the fouthern
art of New Spain, the only ones which may in time become interefting
For internal commerce, are: 1 Rio Guafacualco and that of Alvarado,
both to the fouth of Vera Cruz, and well adapted to facilitate the
communications with the kingdom of Guatimala; 2. Rid de Motezuma,
which brings the waters of the] kes and the valley of Tenochtitlan
to Rio de Panuco, and by means of which, forgetting that Mexico is
elevated 2277 yards above the level of the fea, they have planned a
navigation from the capital to the weftern fhores 3. Rio de Zacatula;
4. The great river of Santiago, which grows from the junétion of the
rivers Lerma and las Laxas, and which might convey the corn of
Salamanca, Zelaya, and perhaps of all the intendancy of Guadalaxara,
to the port of San Blas, on the fhores of the Pacific Ocean.”
~ Laxes.} The chief lake in Spanith North America, fo far as yet
explored, is that of Nicaragua, which is about 170 Britifh miles in length,
N. W. to S. E and about half that breadth. This grand lake is
fituated in the province of the fame name, towards the fouth of the
ifthmus, and has a great outlet, the river of St. Juan, to the gulf of
Mexico ; while a-{maller ftream is by fome fuppofed to flow into the
Pacific +. In the hands of an enterprifing people this. lake would
fupply the long wifhed-for ‘paflage from the Atlantic into the Pacific,
and in the mof direét courfe that could he defired. Nature has already
Supplied half the means, and it is probable that a complete puflage
might have been opened, at half the expence wafted in fruitlefs expe.
ditions to difcover duet a paflage by the north-weft or the north-eatt.
This fpeculation muft depend on circumftances; but if a paflage were
once opened, the force of the ocedn would probably enlarge it ; and a
tribute at this new found would be a confiderable fource of revenue,
Th the provirice of Yucatan there are many confiderable lakes, well
known to the cutters of logwood ; and itill afcendimg towards the north,
that of Mexico is the firft that deferves attention. The conjuné& lakes
of Tezcuco and Chalco are fouad to be about thirty Britith miles in
length, while that of-'T'ezcuco mi ht be about fifteen miles in breadth ;
but now that the latter is partly drained, fo as to be at the diftahce of
a league from the city, it is probably about twelve miles in breadth.
This lake is not only celebrated in hiitory, as originally containing the
city of Mexico, rifing amid the waters like another Venice, and accef-
fible by caufies on the weit fide, but is remarkable for the qualities of
the waters, partly freth aud partly faline. The Chalco, or refh water
lake on the esas appears to ow by a narrow channel into the falt
lake of Tezcucoy but Mr. Humboldt’s map of the environs of Mexica
620
"e P, 44. %
+ ‘This laft feems doubtful, or perhaps only exifts during the fnundations, Mr,
Edwards, Hift, W. Tod. i, 18. quotes Dr. Dancer's Hiftory of the expedition from Jamaica
to Fort Juan, on the lake of Nicaragua, 1780. “This was printed in Jasmaicay and js very
fireiw England. A copy has however beer procurcd, but it chrows little light oo geogte-
phy, urgating folely of thy difeafes, - will,
uw
will, when
There are thi
miles from th
orrather T'an
isthe fountair
In the proy
of which gav
anciently to f,
the north of }
or Mechoacan
about twelve |
miles, perhaps
maps as of fa
Indians. dwell] ;
the capital in «
To the weft
tant lake, that
Chapala, on ac
of fifth, a valual
The lake of
Nafas, is little
that affigned in
erates two riv
1s the geograp
the midft of fil
neareft ftation,
New Leon.
In the proyine
a large lake of
Adayes, which
AAdayes is fo lar
five leagues in d
been defcribed,
It mutt not b
abound with nu
banks or long re
hore of the Balt
tion of currents
Mounrains.
America is that
Fy age ex
and fifty leagues
Britith A iy
thority, fometime
* The lake of Ter
hundred and fixty fe
one of which the egg
Organization,
t ‘© The chief le
8 {pace of nearly 160
lakes of the ‘valley of
Patzcuaro in the inte
in the two continen
mb, 44, .
rn ae
oan
. Ose EO MH
SPANISH DOMINIONS. Gat
will, when publifhed, explain this: interefting part of topography*:
There are three or four other fmall lakes, at the diltance of about thirty:
miles from the capital, one of which gives fource to the river Panuco,
or rather Tampico, which falls into the gulf of Mexico, while another |
isthe fountain of the river Barnaja, asalready. mentioned.
In the province of Mechoacan there are two confiderable lakes, one
of which gave name tothe province implying the f/bery, as it ufed
anciently to fupply the capital. Thislake, as already mentioned, is on
the north of Palquaro, the capital of the province, while Valladolid,
or Mechoacan, has only the bihopric; ard according to Alcedo,. is
about twelve leagues in circumferenge, p: sbably aoout forty Englifh
miles, perhaps equalling that of Tezcuco, though. reprefented in our
maps as of far inferior. fize. The fith is ftill exquifite ; and.many
Indians. dwell in piturefque islets, occupied in &fhivg, or bringing te
the capital in canoes, fish, fruits, flowers, and pot herbs.
To the weil, in the province of New Gallicia, is a yet more impor.
tant lake, that of Chapala, according to Alcedo, called alfo the fea of
Chapala, on account of its extent. It is greatly navigated, and is full
of fifh, a valuable article of trade to the vicinity. |
The lake of Parras, or of St. Pedro, which receives the large river
Nafas, is little known; butit is probably of far greater extent than
that affigned in the maps. ‘To the weft is another large lake, which
receives two rivers, one of them pafling by Durango, but fo imperfee&
is the geography, that the name is unknown. ‘The latter lake, in
the midit of filver mines, might be named that of Cuencamis from the
neareft ftation, There are alfo numerous lakes in the province called
New Leon.
Iu the province of Texas there is, according tothe account of Alcedo,
a large lake of freth water, called that of St. Ann, perhaps that of
Adayes, which is at leaft equally unknown in the maps. The lake of
Adayes is fo large as to be celebrated among the favages, being about
five leagues in diameter. The fplendid rock in the middle has already
been defcribed, in {peaking of the ftation of Adayes.
It mutt not be omitted, that the weftern coaits of the gulf of Mexico
abound with numerous: long lagoons, divided from the fea by fandy
banks or long reefs, fo as perfectly to refemble the afs on the Pruffian
fhore of the Baltic : a coincidence probably owing to the fimilar opera-
tion of currents +.
Mountains.] The chief chain of mountains in Spanifh North
America is that of ‘Topia, which, commencing in the neighbourhood of
Guadalaxara, extends north to New Mexico, a diftance of one hundred
and fifty leagues, or according to our maps, more than feven hundred
Britifh miles ; while the breadth of all the ridges is, by the fame aus
thority, fometimes forty leagues, or one hundred and fixty miles t. This
* The lake of Tezeuco, or Mexico, according to Mr. Humboldt, is fix thoufand nine
hundred and fixty feet above the level of the fea; and only contains wo kinds of filh,
one of which the agalutl belongs to the clafs of Sirenes and Protées, and is of extracrdinary
Organization.
+ * The chief lakes of New Spain are, that of Chapala in New Gallicia, oceupying
afpace of nearly 160 fquare leagues, being twice as large as the lake of Confance 5 the
lakes of the valley of Mexico, which fil! a querer of the furface of that valley, the luke of
Patzcuaro in the intendancy of Valladolid; on# of the moft piGurefque fituations I know
in the tWo continents; lake of Mextitlan, and that of Farrus, in New Bifcay.”’
Humb. 44, A
2 Alcedo sn woce, '
t chain
Ne ee te tpt gett ee ar meth = . Sot x x = 2 = F -
& ¢ : we ~ pe Ss ~
622 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
i :puted from Guadalaxara, muft of courfe be towards the
perenne vie alty. It ‘is of fuch a height as to be comparable
with the Andes of Peru, and abounds with precipices of the mott pro-
found and terrible afpeét. It is almoit univerfally clothed with pines of
extraordinary fize and height, and fo thick as to exclude the rays of
the fun. On the fummit the cold is intenfe; but the temperature of
the fides varies according to climate and expofure. It gives birth to
any rivers, fome flowing into the Atlantic, others to the Pacific, and
fubjeet to inundations on the melting of the fnows, which are of great
d th ‘The rains are continual from June to September, and the rivers
Sater terrible, inundating the country to the diltance of two orithree
1 ‘ ues, while the mufquitoes become intolerable. Befides pines there
ieeiene trees, and the wild fruit fuftains humerous birds of the mot
vale ted and beautiful appearance. Other birds, called carpenters,
eater bates in the pines with furprifing art, to conceal their food, and
ferve it from putrefaction. There is alfo abundance of what our
aithor calls pavas, or peashens, but the peacock feems a bird peculiar
Sy Afia; and he evidently means the turkey, fometimes called by the
fame name in Spanifh. this royal eagle is probably a bird ef great fize,
Among the quadrupeds he enumerates bears, lions, and tygers: that is
the American animals which have been fo ‘named. The trees are alfo
eopled with fquirrels of various kinds, while the monkey loves @ more
fouthern climate. This noble chain is prolific in filver, yielding about
a mark for each quintal of earth, which has tempted the Spaniards to
lore thofe inacceffible receffes of nature, which defy all exagyeration,
This ridge received its appellation from a favage tribe, which was con-
verted i the Jefuits in 15905 but the mines have been moftly sh
doned, on account of their great diftance from any capital. ‘The ridge
of Topia is alfo called the Sierre Madre, or mother chain, 7 Pes
the fingular province of Nayarit, which remained ‘pagan till 171 as
already mentioned. Towards the north the extent of the seis .
dre, or chain of Topia, has not been precifely determined ; but the
Mo: uis, on the weft of Santa Fé, and under the fame parallel,
fitively claffed among its inhabitants * ; and it ht gl ye chain
with that of Nabajo, and the Sierra Azul, or Blue Ridge o sil
and the Stony Mountains of N. W. America, fending off a brane
called gemes on the welt of New Mexico, while on the eaft of that
ince i inferior ri f Nambit. In the viceroyalty the gene-
Titans of ihe Torte chain ihe weftern fhore is about one
hundred and forty Britifh miles, but in fome parts not above half that
Pa thi i ith authors, begins
i dge, by the account of all the Spanifh authors, beg
in a pa Doerhoed Guadalaxara, it ia clear that it mutt eg
confounded with the grand eagt ot i ae ong ie rypsieot > i
ical geologifts: nor can the Peruvian ch; ]
8 Nach ye eines beyond the lake of Nicaragua, where
i E. and W. ;
toe Oe Sahorious sefeineb after the fources of the Red gee ne 4
tain Pike difcovered a very remarkable mountain, which he thus
“ "The perpendicular height of the mountain from the level of the
PA sem age Al called the mountains of Sumas (om the
Various parts of this la(t chain are by Alaate : ,
Ric tat Notte), Organos, St. Chriftoval, Abo, Chimayon, Tavs, all S. to Ne Prairie
Prairie was 10,5:
from the level ,
18,581 feet,’ fall:
deed it was fo
for hundreds of
by the Spaniards
N.W. In our
“fight (except wh
January.”?
On the eatt the
diate table land, |
table land feems t
to include the wl
ful river, the Bra)
and other countri
pellation, has bee
informs us that al
and Atlantic, is d
of mountains, rut
the oriental chain
and Texas; not tc
co. In-the midc
of New Bifcay, ;
far.as the garrifon
New Mexico; bu
_itfelf. He adds t
ces of Culiacan, ¢
Pimeria, fo called
confirming the ide:
hood of Guadalax
in the vicinity of
if either of thet
bethe oriental, 3
to the E.N.E, of
the eaftern wall of
that it paffes ftill f
canoes, while it ma
tioned in the weite
* Eftalla, xxvii. 120
t So obfeure is the g
cerning the mountaing
gulf of Mexico, 1e-pul
19° 93’; and between
the mountain of Or'zay
S.W. of the town of X.
with perpetual fnow, w
fouth-ealt of the village
of the whole viceroyalt
leegues, being almoit eq
out the port of Vera Cy
8. covered with pines w
and lakes, Mr, Arrowhi
miftakes; but is on an ¢
cede fays, that the ridge
viceroyalty, and cove
Beographigal miles to th
SPANISH DOMINIONS, 623
Prairie was 10,581 feet; and admitting that the Prairie was 8000 feet
from the level of the fea, it would make the elevation of this peals
18,581 feet, falling fhort of that of Chimborazo only 1701 feet. In-
deed it was fo remarkable as to be known to all the {avage nations,
for hundreds of miles round, and to be fpoken of with admiration
by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and was the bounds of their travels
N.W. In our wandering in the mountains it was never out of our
‘fight (except when in a valley) from the 14th November to the 27th
January.”?
On the ea{t there is alfo a confiderable chain, fupporting an interme.
diate table land, on which are various rivers, terminating in lakes. This
table land feems to proceed from the neighbourhood of the capital, and
to include the whole ef New Mexico, though pervaded by a powers
ful river, the Bravo, as not unexampled.in the table lands of Hindoftan,
and other countries. But this‘eaftern chain, not having a general ap-
pellation, has been more laxly treated by the Spanifh authors. Eftalla
informs us that all the extenfive territory contained between the Pacific
and Atlantic, is divided into three parts, formed by two principal chains
of mountains, running from the S. E. to the N. W.*. On the E. of »
the oriental chain are the provinces of New Leon, Santander, Coaguila,
and Texas; not to mention more fouthern diltri&ts on the gulf of Mexi-
co. In-the middle divifion, between the chains, are various provinces
of New Bifcay, as Tepeguana, Taraumara, Topia, and Batopilas, as
far.as the garrifon of the Pa/o del Norte, which ttands in the fuuth of
New Mexico; but he might, it is believed, have added that country
_itfelf. He adds that, on the weft of the Topian chain, are the provin-
ces of Culiacan, Cinaloa, Oftimuri, and Sonora, with upper and lower
Pimeria, fo called from the different elevation of the territory, thus
confirming the idea that the weftern chain terminates in the neighbour-
hood of Guadalaxara. Hence it appears thatthe oriental ridge begins
in the vicinity af Mexico, further to the fouth than that of Topia; and
if either of the two chains could be conneéted with the Andes it muft
be the oriental, Evftalla fays that the town of Tezcuco is feven leagues
to the E.N.E. of Mexico, at the foot of the chain, which: ferves as
the eaftern wall of the valley of Tenoxtitlan ; and it may be concluded
that it paffes ftill further to the fouth, including Orizava and other vol-
canoes, while it may be efteemed a fingularity that no volcanoes are men-
tioned in the weitern chaint. At the diftance of nine or ten leagues
- rom
* Eftalla, xxvii. 120,
+ So obfeure is the geography of New Spain, that no fmall confufion prevails even con-
cerning the mountaing in the neighbourhood of the capital, The Spanith chart of the
gulf of Mexico, se-publithed hy the French marine, 1801, gives the pofition of Mexico
19¢ 33’; and between the capital and Vera Cruz, a little to the douth of the diragt line,
the mountain of Or'zava; whilit foméwhat to the north is the mountain of Perote, on the
S.W. of the town of Xalapa, ‘This mountain of Perote is defcrihed by Eftalla as covered
with perpetual fnow, while on the fide there is a flrong forirefs, Alcedo fays, that to the
fouth-eait of the village of Perote is the mountain of the fame name, one of the higheft
of the whole viceroyalty, and difcoverable at fea at the diflance Of more than twenty
leoques, being almoft equal in height with Orizava, while both ferve as land marks to point
out the port of Vera Cruz, He adds, that this ridge extends more than fix leagues N. to
S. covered with pines which fupply Vera Cruz with pitch, and full of precipices, rivulete,
and lakes. Mer. Arrowfmith’s late map, from the want of materials, prefents not a few
miftakes ; but is on an excellent fcale, and in many refpedts is worthy of its author: Al-
cede fuys, that the ridge of Tlafcala pervades that province, being one of the higheft of
the viceroyalty, and covered with perpetual now. Alzate indicates a volcano abput fixty
geographigal miles to the welt of Orizava, near Towlapa, where D'Anville places the vole
©, — on alas = -— - =
pT Ne RE ety cece S -
ee nat pir eiene cigiaeasye
: sch dansnennensenmatiasbeitencamenen
64 SYANISH DOMINIONS:
’
from Vera Cruz, M. Thiery found himfelf in a plain, “with the mouna
tains of Alvarado S. Orizava W. and the Sierras Leones N.W. forming
a natural barrier of one huidred and fifty leagues*; and the eaftern
ridge feems, by his account, to form a barrier of the vale of Mexico;
nay, may’ perhaps be traced as far as Oaxaca, which he defcribes ag
fituated on the fkirts of a branch of the North-eaftern mountains,
This chain feems to be the fame which is called the grand Sierra of
Tamalipan by Alcedo, in his defcription of New, Leon, and a branch
of which is. called the Eaftern Tamalipa by Alzate. This laft branch .
excends from the defarts of Jaumabe to the ealtern coaft of the province
of Santander, where it is marked on the Spanifh chart of the gulf of
Mexico by the names of various peaks; while the mountain of Orcafi.
tas, vifible at fea, thongh at the diflance of ene hundred and fixty
miles infand, mutt nearly equal Orizava in height,-and appears to belong
to the fame branch of the grand ridge of Tamalipa +.
The mountain called Nevado of Toluca, Humboldt eftimates at 2370
toifes, or 14,220 fect, and he adds that no mountain of the Intendancy *
ef Mexico is equal in height to Mont Blanc.
In the kingdom of Guatimala few names of ridges of mountains
have been given, the volcanoes having attracted the chief attention,
In the diftriét of Sonfonate the great chain of Apaneca runs many
leagues eaft and weft {. The names of the mountains in the other pros
vinces have been left in oblivion, except that of Canatagua, running N,
and S. and dividing Veragua from Panama, North from South A merica;
that of Urraca, and a few others in the maps of Lopez. If there
were a capital ridge pafling dire@ly from the Andes, it is impoflible that
it could have efeaped the obfervation of the Spanifh authors, or not
fhave been- known by general appellation; but by the map of Lacsuz, it
appears that the Andes terminate at Darien, where the land, inftead of
running north, in their conftant direction, bends W. and even S. W,
through. Panama; and it feems an idle theory to conne& the mountains
of Guatimala, which run in various directions, with thofe ot South
America, whofe direétion is fo uniform.
The compofition of the mountains of New Spain is little known,
but according to M. Humboldt, and the fpecimens which I have feen,
they are moltly of argillaceous fchistus, a fubitance generally prolific
of metals. !
Concerning zhis interefting fubjeét further particulars may now be
added from Humboldt’s recent publication |]. ‘* Farther north of the
arallel of 19°, near the celebrated mines of Zimapan and the Doétor,
in the Intendancy of Mexico, the Cordillera takes the name of Sietra
Madre: again retiring from the eaftern part of the kingdom, it
cano of Popacatepec, now extinét. It is to be hoped that the mays of M. Humboldt will
clear up many ditheulties. ;
Al edo vue. Oaxaca fays, that province is divided frony ‘Tafcala by 2 ridge called Cocola,
abundaut in gold, filver, cryftal, vitriol, and precious tlones,
* Thiery, ii. 49.° ¢ :
+ bfalla, in his deferiynion of New Leon, ‘xxvii. 113, fays, that it is divided by many
branches of the chief chain, which patling fiom Coaguilla, inclofes all the weft and fouth
of New Le.n. If this defcription be exact, it would feem that the eaftera chain bends in
a femicireular form, including the eaftern branch of Tamalipa,
t Eftalla, xxvii. 168.
§ On the north of the province of St. Suivador, Guatimalp, is the rugged ridge de lor
Chontales, Fftalla, xxvii. 177. , : ’
fi) Humbrld:, p, 98.
Popocatepetl, and the
fretehes
ftretches N. W. t
Guanaxuato, ‘Ty
of Mexico, the §
then foon divides —
toward Charcag an
ngcom of Leon
tendancy of Guada
through Culiacan ;
banks of the Rio ¢
acquires confiderat
California, where i
for confiderable w,
Madre, which ma
Andes, occupies the
may be followed },
Sierra de los Mimbr
From thence it cro;
(of Cranes?) and §
under the 40° of
Efcalante and Font.
near thofe of Rio d
which divides the rir
and the continuation
amined under the go
Of the mountains
[noke (Puebla), is c
16,600 feet, in heigh
woman, 2455 toiles,
Orizaba, 271% toifes
cheft, fo ¢alled from a
of Perote, is 2089 to
He fays that ther
Panama to Bering’s §
height; namely, th
rarely occur near the
of the latter $? Th
coming to anchor at
ls about 400 yards hig
Of fix coloffal moy
pie of Orizaba, ¢
ztaccihuatl, and the
fhow ; while the oth
Colima, are free fro
north and fouth of thi
in which ig alfo the ne
which prefent the phe
_ The mountains are
indurated clay, whic
ranked among the vag
Spain there are only
* Or Taraumara,
t Humboldt, 38, 998,
"eno relation with the Ai
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 625
ftretches N. W, towards the towns of San Miguel el Grande, and
Guanaxuato. ‘To the north of this laft town, contidered as the Potofi
of Mexico, the Sierra Madre affumes an extraordinary breadth. It
then foun divides into three branches, the eaftermoft of which runs
toward Charcas and the Real de Catorce, and lofes itfelf in the new
kingdom of Leon. The weftern branch occupies a part of the Ine
tendancy of Guadalaxara.. From Bolanos it finks rapidly, and ftretches
through Culiacan and Arifpe, in the Intendancy of Sonora, to the
banks of the, Rio Gila, -Under the 30° of latitude, it however again
acquires confiderable elevation in Tarahumara *, near the gulf of
California, where it forms the mountains of Pimeria. Alta, celebrated
for confiderable wafhings of gold. The third branch of the’ Sierra
Madre, which may be confidered as the central chain of the Mexican
Andes, occupies the whole fpace of the Intendancy of Zacatecas. It
may be followed by Durango and Parral (in New Bifcay) to the
Sierra de los Mimbres (fituated to the W, of the Rio grande del Norte).
From thence it croffes New Mexico, and joins the mountains Grué
(of Cranes?) and Sierra Verde. This mountainous country, fituated
under the 40° of latitude, was explored in 1777 by the fathers
Efcalante and Font. It gives rife to the Rio Gila," whofe fources are
near thofe of Rio del Norte. It is the ridge of this central branch
which divides the rivers between the Pacific Ocean, and the Atlantic,
and the continuation of which Fidler and the intrepid Mackenzie ex:
amined under the 50° and 55° of northern latitude.”’
Of the mountains of New Spain, the Popocatepetl, or mountain of
fnoke (Puebla), is computed by Humboldt to be 2271 toifes, about
16,600 feet, in height above the fea. The Iztaccihuatl, or the white
woman, 2455 toifes. The Citlaltepetl (starry mountain) or pike of
Orizaba, 2717 toifes, and Nauhcanpatepetl, or mountain of the (ure
cheft, fo Called from a porphyritic rock on the fummit, now the Coffer
of Perote, is 2089 toifes,
He fays that there is only one mountain in North America, from
Panama to Bering’s Strait, which exceeds the volcano of Puebla in
height; namely, that of St. Elias. But as fuch high mountains
rarely occur near the poles, is there not reafon to doubt the calculations
of the latter $2? The Coffer of Perote ferves as a fignalto navigators
coming to anchor at Vera Cruz; and by Humboldt’s meafurement,
is about 400 yards higher than the pike of Teneriffe.
Of fix coloffal mountains on nearly the fame parallel, four only, the
eak of Orizaba, the Popocatepetl (or volcano of Puebla), the
frtaaeth ath and the Nevado de Toluca, are perpetually covered with
fhow 3 while the other two, the Cofre de Perote and the volcano of
Colima, are free from it, for the greater part of the year. To the
north and fouth of this parallel of great heights beyond this fingular zone,
in which is alfo the new volcane of Jorullo, there are no other mountains
which prefent the phenomenon of perpetual {now.
The mountains are generally compofed of a porous amygdalite, and
indurated clay, which a ho of fome cryftals. of ircers has
ranked among the vague porphyries of the Wernerians. “In all New
Spain there are only five. burning volcanoes, that of Orizaba, the
Popocatepetl, and the mountains of Tuftla, Jorullo, and Colima.
* Or Taraumara,
+ Humboldt, 38, 998. 278, He allows, p. 33, that the mountains of New Spain
hve no relation with the Andes, in wa the direftion of the chains. H
| UMs
626 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
Humboldt is well known ‘to be rather a dafhing adventurer, in almoh
all the f{ciences, than an adept in any *. In geology his grofs errors
were confuted by Dolomieu ; thofe in chemiftry, equally grofs, by
Vauquelin and Klaproth. His mineralogic vocabulary is fingular, and
not a little confuted. His porous amygdaloid, and porphyry void o
quartz, prefent no ideas, he following are the moft intelligible
articles: of information on the conftruction of the mountains of New
Spain.
Phe high plain which’ forms the centre of the Intendancy of
Zacatecas is chiefly compofed of the rock which Werner calls f enite,
being in fa&t a granite in which hornblende takes the place of. mica,
This is furmounted by primitive: flate and chlorite flate, which form the
bafe of fome mountains of grauwack,-and true porphyry, with a bafe
of trap.
About Encero (Int. Vera Cruz) the fecondary formations reft on
porphyry ; and: uear Acazonica there are quarries of a beautiful laminar
gypium. Att Cadereita are beautiful quarries of porphyry, with a bafe
of clay, the i a r of the Germans.
The mountains o Oaxicn contraft with thofe of the plain of Mexico,
prefenting only granite and gneifs +.
Vorcanoes.] The volcanoes, in the fingular territory of New Spain,
inftead of being rare phenomena, as in Europe, are very numerous,
In the maps twenty-one may be counted from that of Soconufco in
the N. to that of Varu inthe fouth. They are all on the fouth-weftern
coaft, and after a confiderable interval they again emerge towards
the eaftern coaft, in the vicinity of Mexico. Concerning thefe nu.
merous volcanoes it is to be hoped that M. Humboldt will give us in.
terefting information. He has already formed us, that onte a {mall
number, aud thofe little elevated, ejeét lava ¢ ; but when he adds, that
the Andes extend from the ftrait of Magellan to the moft northern parts
of America, oppofite to Afia, he evinces little acquaintance with geo.
graphy, a defect too vifible in the writings of many celebrated geolo.
gifts ; and there are certainly more than fifty ative volcanoes in South
America alone. He faw, at the volcano of Jorullo, or Xorullo, a ba.
faltic cone, which appeared above ground, on the 15th September 1759,
and which is at this day two hundred and forty-nine fathoms, or oue
thoufand four hundred and ninety-four feet above the furrounding plain
—a fublime and ftriking object! This volcano of Jorullo is in the pro-
vince of Mechoacan, at the diftance of eight leagues from Pafquaro,
the capital, towards the S.W. the volcano of Colima being in the fame
direGticn, but at a greater diftance. It firft appeared on Michaelinas
day 1759, with fingylar circumitances §. A delicious and fertile vale,
eight leagues in length N. to S. and three in breadth, was called Xorullo
by the Indiansy q word in their language eae paradife ; there was
in it an opulent farm, belonging to Don Jgfeph Pimentel, which pro.
duced the beft fugar of the whole viceroyalty, when bythe fudden eruption
of avolcano, the whole was not only ruined, but the valley afumed an
infernal afpe&, blackened with perpetual fmoke, covered with deformed
rocks and‘afhes, the trees confumed, the earth full of deep cracks and
openings, and now forming a hill of confiderable height, crowned with
a volcano. Along its fide patles a rivulet, which formerly fertilized the
* His charaMer of Alzate, p. 122, might he moft juftly applied to himfelf — Ov/irve
teyr peu exadte, d'isne activité fourert impetuerfe, il je livrort a trop d'olgets i la fois,
+ Humb, 260. 278. 203,237. } Recueil des Obf, Zool. Paris, 1405, 4to. part |,
§ Aleedo, Eftalia.
Ata valley,
f till, in 1766, the Cire
valley, but is n
it; an inconven
this quarter. |
heard horrible
filled the inhak
the ground, if '
to perfuade ther
though at the ¢
earthquakes beg
obftruction, and
Such is the di
ing event. M._
cano, refembling
at one end-an act
The volcano |
royalty. D’Au
be the higneft in
tal, a diftance of
of Mexico, not :
1545, and contin
no appearance ot
perpetual {now, 1
pines, and other
cans Popacatepec
at about thirty n
former is faid to |
tions. Both are
volcanoes in this {
ble for height, as
and others.
Forests. ]
may be judged i
mountains, which
cular account of d
oly fall portion
Nor are defarts
plains of the’ wefte
as the fandy defa
tra&ts of many le
the fanciful forms
* Clavigero, i. 14, ¢
village of Guacana bn
150 miles; and im Valld
obliged to fweep their :
voleano of Jorullo prefe
iffues to the height of
emitted a vaft quantity
mickt.—'Mhe volcano of
It is only Occafionally ca
t D’Auteroche, Cali
land of the kingdom,
e think it higher th
pacatepec, and fays the
of the wildernefs, three
aod his whole work ver
(opat of Orizava has be
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 624
valley, but is now fo hot as to burn men or animals who attempt to pafs
it; an inconvenience, as it is in the dire road to the copper mines in
this quarter. Six months before this cataftrophe, there were conftantly
heard horrible fubterranean noifes, and earthquakes were felt, which
f filled the inhabitants with confternation ; and they would have quitted
the ground, if the landlord had not employed a jefuit of fome tnhuenbe
} to perfuade them to remain. The eruptions of the volcano of Colima,
though at the diftance of feventy leagues, having ceafed as foon as the
f earthquakes begun, it was conceived that the matter had met with fome
‘ obftruction, and had recoiled to this {pot.
, . Such is the defcriptiow given by the Spanifh authors of this furprif-
e ing event. M. Humboldt thewed at Paris a drawing of the new vole.
@ cana, refembling an elevated terrace, with many {piracles of fmoke, and
at one end-an active volcano *.
h) The volcano of Orizava is regarded as the moft majeltic in the vice-
ar royalty. D’Auteroche obferves, that the mountain Orizava is faid to
fe be the higneft in Mexico ; and its el fummit is vifible from the capi-
tal, a diftance of fixty miles. This cel¢brated mountain is to the S. E.
0, of Mexico, not far from the road to Vera Cruz ; it became volcanic in
1545, and continued for twenty years, fince which time there has been
My no appearance of inflammation. Though the fummit is clothed with
is, perpetual {now, the fides are adorned with beautiful forefts of cedars,
in pines, and other trees +. The detached mountains, called by the Mexi-
rn cans Popacatepec and Iztaccihuatl, are alfo to the S.E. of the capital, .
ds at about thirty miles diftance, both being volcanic. The crater of the’
is former is faid to be half a mile wide, and celebrated for ancient erup-
ins tions. Both are covered with perpetual fnow. There are many other
all volcanoes in this fingular province, while other ridges are only remarka-
vat ble for height, as the mountain of Tlafcala, the Tentzon, Toloccam,
rts and others. bie *
€0- Forests.] The forefts of New Spain are extremely numerous, as
blo. may be judged in fome degree from the preceding accounts of the
th mountains, which are often clothed with primeval trees ; and no parti-
ba- cular account of diftinét forefts can be expected, in a country of which
59 oily fmall portions have been cleared, —
oue Nor are defarts wanting in New Mexico and on the E.. ** Thefe vaft
lain plains of the’ weftern hemifphere may become in time equally celebrated
pr0» as the fandy defarts of Africa, for I faw in my route in various places,
ar, tra&ts of many leagues where the wind had thrown up the fand, in all
ame the fanciful forms of the gcean’s rolling waves, and on which not a
mas
ale, * Clavigero, i. 14, alluding to this event, mentions, that in 1759 a fmall hill near the
ule j village of Guacana burft with furions volcanic fhocks, and emitted fire and burning rocks
was till, in 1766, the circumference was fix miles, The afhes were borne to the diftance of
150 miles; and im Valladolid, or Mechoacan, fixty miles diftance, the inhabitants were
pros obliged to fweep their Fiabe two or three times in a day.—-Humboldt faye, p. 257, that the.
tion voleano of Jorullo prefents theufands of little gones, called fumaroles, from which {moke
dan iffues to the height of 10 or 15 yards: the chief volcano is conftantly aétive, and hay
med emitted a vaft quantity of droffy and bafaltic lavas, which contain fsaginents of primitive
oe tocks.—The volcano of Colima is feen in all its grandeur from the litde village of that neyne,
ih It is only oecafionally covered with fnow.’ Th, 257: ‘
wit t D’Auteroche, California, p. 87. Clavigero, i. 13, who adds, that it is the "aighett
H the land of the kingdom, and its conic form obferved at fea at the diftance of fifty |
Some think it higher than the peak of Teneriffe. Gage, p. 69, gives an accor nt of Po-
pacatepec, and fays the volcanoes extend as far fouth as Leon, in Nicaragua. - His secount
of the wildernefs, three leagues N.W. (fhould be S.W.) from Mexico,. p. 7 0, is curious,
sod his whole work very intercfting. It ia faid that he often coples Gomapa, ‘Yhiery'’s ace
(opnt of Osizava has been already mentioned. poli
Sf {peck
anc ei gn alg entre
RP asec
a a OE De Oat is oo. occa i
Nghe a rege ake Teo eS é ie ay See B as
.6a8 SPANISH .DOMINIONS.
Apeck .of vegetation exilted. But from thefe immenfe prairies may
arife one great advantage to the United States, viz. the reftriQion of
our population to fome certain himits, and thereby a continuation of the
union *,””
‘Borany.] One of the numerous defiderata of topographical botany
is a fcientific account of the native plants that grow in the Spanith
North American territory weft of the Miffiffippi. We know in general
‘that it is extremely rich in its vegetable productions, but are obliged to
infer the particulars from the articles of commercial export from the
Mexican harbours, and the fhort lift given by Cavanilles oF the Mexican
plants cultivated in Spain, —
The plants that chara&terize the N. American poffeffions of the Spa.
nifh crowa are caétis cochenilifer, a fp.cics of the Indian fig, upon
which the cochinreal infe&t more particularly delights to feed: convol-
yulus jalapa, the true jalap, a native of the province of Zalappa, in the
viceroyalty of Mexico ; copaifera officinalis and toluifera balfamum, two
trees that yield the fragrant gum refing, known in commerce by the
names of Yalfam of Capivi and of Tolu. The fhores of the bays of
‘Honduras and Campechy have been celebrated from their very firft dif.
covery for their immenfe forefts of mahogany and logwood; and the
neighbourhood of Guatimala is diftinguifhed for its indigo. The gua.
yacum, the faffafras and tamarind, the cocoa nut palm, the chocolate
nut tree, and a variety of others, which are better known as natives of
the Weft Indian iflands, enrich and adorn thofe fertile provinces. The
ine apple grows wild in the woods, and the fhallow rocky foils are inha.
Bited by the various fpecies of aloe and euphorbia, A few Mexican
plants have been introduced into European gardens, among which may
be noticed the falvia fulgens, glowing with its crimfon bloffoms, the
{plendid dahlia, the elegant {triated fifyrinchium, the gigautic helian.
thus, and the delicate mentzelia.
To this unhappily brief account fome particulars may be added from
Thiery, and the recent Spanith writers. fn the neighbourhood of Vera
Cruz, Thiery found the cocoa tree, a bombax with red flowers, melias
and plumerias. Further inland he met with a rare {pecies of wild fiz,
and groves of fenfitive plants and ceibas. The fpecies of cacti, or plants
refembling Indian figs, are infinite; and fome Rave been mentioned in
delineating the face of the country. Yuccas, fingular ferns, an arum of
reat beauty, and fo large that the root weighs ten pounds, the fuperb
fy, a violet with a bulbous root, thiftles equal in fize to artichokes,
bulbous oxalis, junipers, an oak producing monftrous acorns, lycoperiica,
various geranivms, and heliotropes, that ufeful aloe called the agave
Americana, or maguey, {n the plain of Tehuacan he found chiefy
cacti, and different kinds of fenfitive plants, the foil being {ometimes
only an inch thick, upon a bottom of filvery talc, while the mountains
produce various pines, oaks, &c. Further to the fouth were bignonia;,
with yellow flowers, between fixty and one hundred feet in height, while
the fugar canes attain a prodigious fize, different forte of crefcentiy,
annonas, beautiful folanas, afclepias with yellow flowers, alas the
yellow jafmin, At Cues the precious nopal begins to appear, being
cultivated in gardens, where are alfo found mirafols, and a beautiful fage
with fcarlet flowers. Vanilla grows upon the trees, like our mifletoe,
New fyringas and pancratias may alfo be added to the lift ¢. Bost
f : alia.
® Pike's Travels,
p Ibe euriows ‘botanical pcader will find in the laft volume of the Mbtionery of ‘nt
~y adti,
Eftalla prefers t
the market of Me
exclufive of the ]
aleague from Me:
granates, but if n
_ brated nopal, the
_ Eftalla and Alced
length by Thiery,
the cultivated and
different fpecies,
tions the tree whi
gum copal, which,
ralamber, the maft
blood. While the
they are faid to gr
fo large, that each
this author, the ro
of all fpecitics agai
vered in New Spain
in the world, a defc
1805, The flower
defcription is given
America muft be ef
near the village of §
hill, ‘is of a regular
holm-oak, and refif
which it is expofed.
flower, in the thape
has been derived,
{pecies, which at le
fen in the botanical
The fame autho
leagues to the fouth
abichnete, meafured
of Mexi¢o and Gua
hundred perfons ente
filled, becaufe a part
of the tree are want
height from the root
palms of Spain+; ¢
and fifty-feven palm
teen; at the height
the outfide, one hun
New Spain, and g.
Oaxaca forty yards i
foil alfo appear in an
fonqueft, and which
erence,
Zoorocy.] Th
Madrid, 1789, ato, an alp
the bonied ‘sbours of f
wil fupp'y many doficienca
*Eialla, xvi. o19:
t The Spunith palm’ lit
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 629
Eftalla prefers the chirimoya to the pine apple ; and obferves, that in
the market of Mexico there are daily ran more than fixty kinds of fruit,
exclufive of the European*. Olives thrive in the archbifhop’s garden,
aleague from Mexico ; and the province of Tehuacan aboundsin pome-
granates, but if not grafted, the fize becomes diminutive. The cele.
brated nopal, the chofen haunt of the cochineal infe&t, is defcribed by
“Efftalla and Alcedo; and the manner of culture is illuftrated at great
length by Thiery, in whofe work will be found exa& reprefentations of
the cultivated and wild cochineal, which appear however to be entirely
different fpecies. Among the produétions of Vera Paz, Eftalla men-
tions the tree which yields diguid amber, and others of various balfams,
gum copal, which, according to fome, is the original fubftance of mine-
ralamber, the matftic tree, and that which yields the yum called dragon’s
blood. While the reeds of Florida attain the height of thirty feet, here
they are faid to grow to the incredible height of one hundred feet, and
fo large, that each joint will contain an aroba of water, According to
this author, the root of the maguey has been found the moft powerful
of all fpecitics againft the venereal difeafe, Of a fingular tree difco.
vered in New Spain, and believed to be the only one of the kind exifting
in the world, a defcription and coloured’ plate were publithed at Paris
1805,. "The flower is'in the form of the human hand, The following
defcription is given by Eftalla: « Among the rare trees of this part ‘of
America muft be efpecially placed that called de /as manitas. Tt grows
near the village of San Juan, in the diftrict of ‘Toluca, on the fide of a
hill, 'is of a regular form, the leaves fomewhat refembling thofe of the
holm-oak, and refilting the rigour of winter and the northern blatt-to
which it is expofed. Once in two years it produces a moft fingular
flower, in the fhape of a hand, and of a flefh colour, whence the name
has been derived. Several efforts were made to proprgate this unique
{pecies, which at length have happily fiurcceededs and young plants are
feen in the botanical gardet: of Mexico.”? |
The fame author informs: us, that in the town'of Atrifco, thirty
leagues to the fouth-eaft of Mexico, there iv a: celebrated tree called
abuehnete, meafured in O&uber 1767, in the prefence of the archbithops
of Mexi¢o and Guatimala, and the bifhop of Puebla, More than one
hundred’ perfons entered the hollow trunk, which was yet far from being’
filled, becaufe apart lower than the reft was full-of water.) Two-thirds
of the tree are wanting, having heen confumed by lightning; but the
height from the root to where it was ftruck is one hundred and feventy
palms of Spain +3; the outer circumference at the ground one hundred
and fifty-feven palms ; the concave at the bottgm one hundred and four
teen; at the height of three yards fixty-fix ; and, at the fame height on
tie outfide, one hundred and nine palms t. This {pecies is common in
New Spain, and generally very large: there is one in the province of
Oaxaca forty yards in circumference. The productive powers of the
foil alfo appear in an olive tree, which muft have been planted fince the
iy and which is twenty-one yards and three quarters in circum.
erence,
Zoorocy.] The zoology has been ably illuftrated by Hernandez,
Madrid, 1789, 4to. an alphabetical defcription of the moft ufeful plants of America ; and
the botanied ‘abours of Humboldt and Bonpland his companion, which begin to appear,
will fupp! many deficiencies, -
*Eitalla, xxv). 919, ‘
+ The Spunith palm’ litde exceeds nine inches, ¢ Eftella, xxvii. 86. 252. +
Sf3 ftyled
630 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
ftyled the Pliny of New Spain, who flourifhed under Philip 1y,
_ taqwards the clofe of the fixteenth century ; but his works remained
in manufcript till an extra&t was publifhed in the middle of the
fucceding ‘century. The variety of animals is great, though it do
not equal that of the plants and minerals. Among the moft fin.
gular animals is the Mexican or hunchback dog, a kind of por
cupine; and fome others defcribed by feveral naturalifts, What is
called the tiger feems a {pecies of panther, and fometimes grows to a
great fize, though Buffon, ever fond of theory, affert that American
animals are generally fmall. In South America it attains the length of
a large ox, as appears from the teftimony of Dobrizhoffer ; but Clavi.
gero fays that the largeft quadruped is the dasta, anta, or tapir, about
the fize of a middling mule, being amphibious. This animal feems to
be different from the lanta or danta of Africa, defcribed by Leo; but
the identity of the name tends to corroborate the idea that America was
peopled from Africa, The bifon is found in New Mexico; and the
mufk cattle. may perhaps extend as far. In California there are faid to
be wild theep. The birds of New Spain are particularly numerous and
curious *. \
To thele brief hints fome others may be added from the recent de.
{criptions. Even thofe native animals which feem to approximate
the moft to the European, are yet different ; but the partridges in the
defart of the Carmelites, five leagues from Mexico, were brought from
Spain, as was the rabbit, now general. What is called a lion rather
refembles a cat in figure and manners. Enormous fnakes are {till faid to
attack men and animals by the breath, which may fimply affect from
fome peculiar gaz, poffefling intoxicating and ftupifying power. Tame
Snakes are alfo kept in the fields of maize, where they deftroy rats, moles,
and infects. ‘The few fith of the lake of Mexico have al been men.
tioned ; but the defect is fupplied by numbers of a kind cg wild geefe,
which frequent the lake, end form a great article of confumption tn the
city. They are often taken, as in China, by Indians, who place cala
bathes on their heads, and feize the bird by the feet.
_ The buffalo of North America is common, and valuable for its woo/,
fkin, and fieth, In 1783 four or five were embarked at Vera Cruz, and
brought to. Cadiz. <A temale calved in Spain, but the climate of Anda.
lufia would have been preferable to that of Aranjuez, where they died.
Horfes, mules, and beeves are common and cheap in New Spain, A
horfe commonly cofts four dollars; but the horfes are far from being well
trained, and the cavalry is mounted on geldings. Oxen are chiefly uled
far the plough; but the beef is bad, and left to the poor, while the ricl
eat mutton and veal.
Numerous herds of wild horfes abound in the W. part of Louifiana,
bay, black, and grey, in fat ofall colours. They are defcendants of
the Spanith horfes, and are hunted, caught, and fometimes thot for food
by the favages. Captain Pike alfo, obferved numbers of cadris or wild
goats. Wild boars abound on the river Mariana and other piaces, but
of a {mall and peculiar kind. |
In the fouthera princes are found armadilles, many varieties of apes,
bétutiful birds and infects ; among the latter there is a fpecies of ant,
which elaborates a kind of honey, fo abundant as to be an article of com
® Pennant, A. Z. i. 5. from Fernandez Nov. Hifp. x. ¢,90. Lockman’s Travels of th
scan 400, Du — ii. 95, gives a good sccount of the —— s Low
dana. Hernandez and Ferpendez ase the fgae a8 toni’
Bibliotheca Lifpansicu. pemneen enim —_—
merce
merce. . Its for
is veined with, ,
the belly {wells
common ant the
there will be a p
fame tafte with ¢
food and anaton
MINnERALOG:
America is bevo
far {maller extent
America. The
treating of the re
{pots gold is alfe
nora, Alcedo inf
ended in 19771, |
rious parts, Ab
fourteen leagues,
to weigh fix por
perfors foon fettl
province was nam
viceroyalty, as all
incurfions of the
procuring quickfil
the capital, as the
Till within thef
Spain were thofe
N. W. of Mexico
at > Luis de Por
@~ ec! foon aff
th sme was tran
GUANAJUATO,
confiderably neare
Britith miles, while
dalaxara, and abou
brated mining ftat
the former mines c
the univerfe, even
he mines in the
lilver, and copper,
voiding the water
hame tur the royal
the N. while other
gold and filver ar
and Medalla, but
There are befides fi
* This plain of Cion
his slab It is pro
Humboldt's map pla
upper part of Sonora (
dance in the plaius aud 1
Venegas, in his hitt
faye, i. 296, that Sono
fome of bef nny to
ta Ci
words, have been volcar
very daring in their
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 63x
merce. . Its form, and all its habits, are thofe of the-common ant, but it
is veined with, grey and black. The fingularity is, that in the {pring
the belly {wells with honey, to the fize of a cherry; fo that if from a
common ant the belly be taken, and the other parts joined to a cherry,
there will be a periods refemblance of the infect. The honey is of the
fame tafte with that of the bees, Obfervations are ftill wanting on their
food and anatomy. _
Mineratocy.] The mineralogy of the Spanifh empire in North
America is beyond doubt the moft valuable in the known world, as, in a
far {maller extent, it produccs far fuperior wealth to: that of all South
America. The amount. of the produce has' been already difcuffed, in
treating of the revenues. Silver fori the chief produ& ; ‘but in fome
{pots gold is alfo abundant. In his defcription of the province of So-
nora, Alcedo informs us, that during the war with the favages, which
_ended in 1771, rich mines of gold and filver were difcovered in va-
rious parts, Above all, in the plain of Cieneguilla*, of the length of
fourteen leagues, there were found lumps of gold fo large as fometimes
to weigh fix pounds, at the depth of only two feet. ‘Two ¢choufand
perfors foon fettled in the vicinity, and a general commandant of the
province was named, it being regarded as one of the richeft in the whole
viceroyalty, ab all the mountains abound with filver and gold. But the
incurfions of the enemies, the want of labourers, and the difficulty of
procuring quickfilver, have concurred with the abundance of mines near
the capital, as the caufes why thofe of Sonora have been negle&ed.
Till within thefe forty or fifty years, the richeft filver mines of New
Spain were thofe of Zacatecas, about two hundred Britifh miles to the
N. W. of Mexico; but the miuerals appear to have been chiefly {melted
xt o' Luis de Potofi, which had alfo rich mines in its neighbourhood,
ee! foon after thole of Potofi in South America, 1545, whence
th woe was transferred.
Guanajuato.}] But the gue mines at prefent are at Guanajuato,
confiderably nearer the capital, being a dillance of only one hundred
Britih miles, while it is about one hundred and forty, to the eaft of Gua-
dalaxara, and about fifty to the N.W. of the city of Queretaro. Thiscele-
brated mining ftation is on the Sierra Madre, or chain of Topia, as were
the former mines of Zacatecas, that chain being perhaps the richeft in
the univerfe, even to its northern extremities in Sonora and Pimeria.
The mines in the vicinity of Guanajusto produce abundance of gold,
filver, and copper, and are carried to great depth, fo that the expence of
voiding the waters is not a little confiderable. The Real " general
hame For the royal mining ftations) of St. Nicholas is three leagues to
the N. while others extend tour leaguesto the W. ‘The chief mines of
gold and filver are the Puerta Ovejera, Mora, San Bernabé, Rofario,
and Medalla, but faintly laboured by the indolence of the Indians.
There are befides tive mining {tations within the mountains, each having
* This plain of Cicneguilla does not appear in the maps; and Alcedo has omitted it in
his alphabet, It is probably in the N.E, part of the province. ‘ :
Humboldt’s. map places it on the N. W. lat, 308 90’, He fays, p. 296, that in the
upper part of Sonora (formetiines calied higher Pimeria) lumps of gold are found in abua-
dance in the plains and raviaes,
Venegas, in his hiftory of California, Englih tranflation, London, 1759, 2 vols, vo.
fays, i. 296, that Sonora is bounded on the eat by the high mountains of ‘Tarra Humarra,
forme of which feem to confift of maflyfilver. According to the fame author, p. 305, the
mountains of Santa Clara (on the weft of Santa Fé) are covered with pumice, or in other
words, have been volcanic. He obterves, ii. 203, that the Apaches are wollly cavalry, and
rerp daring in their iusvede.
S{4 . 8 church
5 2 = =e aS SET Sess 2 Toe Sse ae =
teint ee oe enn mi ee I ee nee ow enters = N Sistine Pe eae ead Ses Sie aes ae
4 - %. ‘
632 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
a church, and chaplain to adminifler the facraments; there are alfo {y
the vales forty-three {melting houfes, giving bread to numerous troops
of workmen, who confume annually one hundred thoufand loads ‘of
maize, eighteen thoufand fheep, five thoufand béeves, and eighteen thou.
fand loads of meal, the villages being fixteen in' the townthip of Iya.
uato.* Specimens of thefe mines, which M. Humbpldt brought to
Paris, were rather rich than beautiful, being fome of the common ap.
‘pearances of the various ores. a ae ae
Having thus briefly defcribed the moft celebrated mines of New
Spain, it may be added, that all the fouthern and wettern Provirices are
regarded as productive at gele and filver ; and jn'an efpecial manier all
thofe to the weft of the Topian chain, from Guanajuato, at its fouthern
extremity, to Pimeria in the furtheft north :’ and Reals, or mining fla.
tions, are {cattered throughout its whole extent within the viceroyalty,
The great inland province of Taraumara alfo abounds in filver, the chicf
Real, or mining ftation, being St. Eulalia. The grand eaftern ridge, or
Tamalipa, is by no means fo opulent ; but two or three mining fations
appear in the province of New Leon, which alfo, by the information of
cedo, abounds in filver, or rather in lead, which is the chief objeé of
the mines, and which produces, as ufual, fome filver.’ Towards the
fouth Panuco, or the Cuafteca of the maps, has fome mines of gold,
and one Real of filver, dependant on Zacatecas, whence it is only dittant
three leagues. Nor is the new province of Santander deftitute of filver,
according to Alcedo ; but when he fpeaks of the ridge which gives birth
to the rivers, the weftern province o New Leon mutt be implied ; and
it does not appear that the eaftern, or nvaritime branch of the Tamalipa,
is metallic.
Coaguilla is, by the confeffion of Alcedo, a defart wafte, and its mi.
neral treafures, if any exift, have not been explored. The few mines of
New Mexico, by the fame authority, are all of tin. California prefents
fome appearances of minerals, but they have been little explored.
In the time of the Miffiffippi {cheme, the feizure of the mines of
St. Barbe was held forth as a capital object, and they are placed by De.
lifle immediately on the weft of the river Magdalena, or Guadalupe.
Thefe mines ‘do not appear to have ever exilted ; but, from the remarks
of Eftalla, it would feem that there are ftrong appearances of minerals
* Alcedo.
+ In Pimeria, near the Rea! of Arizona, there was difcovered in a mountain fuch abun
dance of virgin filver, that fome fuppofed it a hidden treafure, Rock falt of great purity
was-alfo found. Eftalla, xxvi. 33.
Antillon, Carta, &c. Madrid, 1803, 4to. inform us, p.41, that the fations for wathing the
gold, lavaderos de oro, abound in Sonora, and particularly in the hills near the capital
ttation of Arifpe, where are thofe of Bacuache, Cananca, and Penuelas, where pieces
have been found. of the weight of feven marks, In the fune parts is the miue of St, Rol:
. lia, which yielded gold of ah carats in fuch abundance, that the value of fome loads
amounted to one thoufand pefos each. ‘The mine of Bonamitri is alfo of gold. ‘There are
no lefs than thirty-feven mines of filver, in the diftriét of Arifye, one of which yields
eightcen marks from the load of mineral, probably a mule’s load. In the fame province,
towards the gulf of California, there are feverul mines not far diftant from the garrifon of
Altar, and the Real or royal mining ftation of Rofario, In upper Pimeria js the celebrated
mine of Arizona, eight leagues from the village of Surie, which in 1796 yielded balls of
virgin filver, to therweight of s hundved and fifty arrobes, or near forty hundred weight.
On proceeding by New Bifcay and New Meaico, are found the mines of Cofagurichi, and
many others, not lefs rich in gold and filver, In New Santander there’are the mines of
Iguana, not far from Laredo; and in New Leon thofe of St. Diego, Our author proceeds
to mention the noted vale of Cineguilla, in the province of Cinaloa ; but for this remarkable
fact he is contented to quote Dr. Robertfon; without any reference to Alcedo, or other
authorities, who place this vale in the province of Sonora,
dn the provine
‘are ab follow*:
roceed toward
‘not difcovered,
‘by accident.
‘vince of Texa
‘theriver, whic
Adayes‘about ¢
tion, is full of
furface of the e
‘an yet tot
reatly, bein
idifcoveréd”
have never bee
‘extent as to ri
built, whofe tri
Cancer toward¢
tained by the 4
favages.”?
Pike, in his \
city of Montere
load 190 mules
rate, or has bee
of Catorce are
others 240 geop
that in Mapimi
Having thus
Spain, and indic
‘precious metals,
to confider the
given under th
was referved fo
freedom se
rations, from ¢
parative quanti
to 1778, there.
eight hundred a
pefos, feven real
1791, there we:
thoufand four h
being more th:
obferved, that
ingots, nor are
= the coina;
and 1793, it a
bein Kha empl
depth than form
the new works :
* Eftalla, xxvi, 9.
+ ‘This is the fir
; ae ac ag 1
ng, ti. 2
dollars, ‘Papires Sort
fortes. And p. 264
might have produced
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 633
nthe province of Texas, a’ part of the ancient Louifiana. His words
‘are'as follow*: ** The minerals of New Spain feem to increafe as we
rocéed towards the north. It is well known that the greater part. is
‘not difcovered, fuch mines having only been wrought as were unveiled
by accident. This will be evident from a letter written from the pro-
-vince of Texas by the auditor Don Juan de Olivan Rebollo: ¢ From
the river, which is called de las Nueces +, diftant from the garrifon of
Adayes‘about three hundred leagues, the whole country, in every direc-
tion, is full of minerals, with this civcumflance, that every foot of the
furface of the earth, when torrified in a fmith’s forge, y elds particles of
-filver 3 yet to this day no one attends to it, the foldiers, who might gain
greatly, being occupied with other affairs.’ But many mines are left
undifcovered, becaufe the northern parts are almoft uninhabited, and
have never been explored by intelligent men. The farms are of fuch an
‘extent as to rival petty kingdoms. Many towns and villages might be
built, whofe traffic would lead'tq many difcoveries, from the tropic of
Cancer towards the north, while there are only a few villages main-
tained by the miffionaries, and infefted by the Chichimecos and other
favages.”” '
Pike, in his view of New Spain, fays there are rich mines near the |
city of Monterey, whence is drawn every month bullion fufficient to
load 190 mules with gold and filver. Humboldt is either very inaccu-
rate, or has been defignedly mifinformed, when he afferts that the mines
' of Catorce are the neareft to the United States. His own map indicates
others 240 geographical miles nearer, or more to the N. E.! Pike fays,
that in Mapimi there ere feven filver mines, and one of gold. |
Having thus :nentioned the chief mines of gold and filver in New
Spain, and indicated the amazing opulence of the viceroyalty in thefe
precious metals, it may be proper, before pafling to the inferior metals,
to confider the produce of the coinage. Some hints have already been
given under the article of revenues, but a more complete explanation
was referved for the prefent topic. The beneficial influence of the
freedom granted to commerce, which has increafed the mining ope-
rations, from caufes already explained, is very vifible from the com-
parative quantities of money ; for during thirteen years, from 1766
to 1778, there were coined at Mexico two hundred and three millions,
eight hundred and eigi.:y-two thoufand nine hundred and forty-eight
pefos, feven reals; while, during another thirteen years, from 1779 to
1791, there were coined two hundred and fifty-two millions forty-two
thoufand four hundred and nineteen pefos, and half a real, the difference
being more than forty-eight millions ¢. It muft at the fame time be
obferved, that gold and filver are now rarely fent to Spain in bars, or
ingots, nor are they confumed in plate. Before the freedom of com.
merce the coinage never exceeded twerity millions of pefos; and in 1792
and 1793, it annually furpaffed twenty-four millions §. More ftock
ae now employed in working-the mines, they are carried to a greater
depth than formerly, and operations of more difficulty are undertaken ;
the new works are alfo conducted with more regularity and intelligence.
* Eftalla,xxvi.aag, *
+ ‘This is the firft great ftream on the eaft of the Rio del Norte.
t Efftalla, xxvii. 11, and 222,
§ Bourguing, ii. 208, values the products of Peru and Mexico at twenty-two millions of
dollars, piajires fortes, the coinage of Mexico being more than eighteen milligns of pia/tres
fortes. And p. 264, the mines of New Spain yielded in 1602, twenty-feven millions, and
might have produced thisty millions, os near Seven millions fterling.
To
634 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
To prevent frauds and irregularities, the royal tribunal of mines was
erected in 1777, the expences being derived from a tax of eight grains
on each mark of filver: brought by individuals to the mint; the annual
amount being about one hundred and fixty thoufand pefos; from which
are taken the falaries of the tribunal, and of a college of mines for the
inftru€tion of youth, while the remainder is employed for the accom.
modation of the miners; the tribunal having thirty-nine thoufand,
college twenty-five, falaries eleven, fo that staph the remain to affitt
proprietors. The duties on mining utenfils have been lowered, and able
miners brought from Germany, to inculcate: the new principles, and
difplay improved methods and machines, As the procedure by amalga.
mation has become almoft univerfal, quickfilver 1s an effentia arial,
and many mines in the north hate been. abandoned, on account of the
great difficulty and expence in procuring and tranfporting it through
countries deftitute of roads. It isalfo an article of monopoly to the
royal treafury *. That of Almaden, in Spain, is fold in Mexico at
forty-one thoufand two hundred and eleven maravedis each quintal,
But the quantity not being fufficient, a contra& has been entered into
between the courts of Spain and Auftria which fupplies a large quantity
from the mines of Idria. ‘his is fold at fixty-three dollars, and gene.
rally produces about feven hundred thoufand pefos. This monopoly of
the treafury alfo ferves as a check on. the mafters of mines, who are
obliged to produce a correfponding weight of metal; but the quantities
not being fufficient, fome is brought from the mine of Guancavelica, in
Peru, and fome even from China. This lait is dearer, but the governor of
Manilla was in{tructed to purchafe all he could procure, from the pro.
duce of fourteen thoufand fix hundred and fixty-two {kins of beavers,
fent to China upon his Majefty’s account ; while that of Idria fells at
fixty-three pefos, the Chinefe 1s fifty-feven, but it is of excellent quality,
There are mines of quickiilver in New Spain, but they have not been
fufficiently explored. A new mode of package in hogfheads has been
found preferable to that in chelts. Salt and gunpowder, of great ufe in
metallurgy, ave alfo royal monopolies,
As New Spain is by far the richeft mineral country in the world,
and the Spaniards derive their chief fupplics from this fource, the rea.
fonings of au intelligent traveller, who refided fourteen years in Spain,
upon this interefting fubjedt, may deferve particular attention +.
“¢ It may be faid to the Spaniards, * Far from making efforts to
draw from your mines all that they can produce, you ought rather to
fhut a part. Contine the inflvx of your metals into the ancient conti-
nent to the quantity neceflary to replace the infenfble waite, what luxury
converts into utentils, and what avarice buries either in Afia or Europe.
Follow the example of the Portuguefe, who reftrict the operations in
their diamond mines, in order that the value may not be diminihed ; and
that of the Dutch, who burn a part of their iploess that the price may
be maintained. The filver of Mexico is your diamonds and your fpices;
if you triple the fum, your miners, whofe labour might be more ulefully
exerted on other objects, will have more occupation, but you witl not
be more rich. You will only pay a triple price for the productions of
foreign indultry, which will always be neceflary, ina greater or lefe
degree.’
fe To thefe fpecious arguments it is anfwered in Spain, * We do not
perceive any thing terrible in this augmentation of ‘currency, Jn the
ws
* Efta'la, xxvii, 221. + Bourgoing, ii. 270, ed. 1803. rt
fir place, tl
while the o
revenues, th;
war, by wha
decline in wh
‘“¢ We may
rations {hall ;
will be incr
and with the
do we fee an
what are the
land, thofe y
confequence
duct of our 1
the hands of
will furnith f
critical perios
neverthelefs,
the utmoft, \
nufactures th:
duftry ufelefs
always to incr
tainly this fitu
would have ir
labour in Sp
ductions of f.
wide channels
the workmen
be again aba
circumftances
in waiting ti
either our m
tinue to draw
Befides £0
royalty. No
boldt broug
thofe of Sax
Copper has
Guanajuato ;
Pafquaro, the
of New Leo
Further in
recent publica
mo confider
La Plata !)
while thofe
del Monte a
tendancy of
Pachuca; Zi
mine near S
® Clavigero fu
in the fhape of al
xvii, 299,
+ The princip
trade of that cit
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 63g
firt place, the dutiee prefent a clear profit to the public treafury; and
while’ the other ftates of Europe are occupied with increafing their
revenues, that they may fupport great enterprifes either in peace or
war, by what fatality fhould it happen that Spain may find caufes of
decline in what is thought to conftitute the profperity of other ftates 2°
‘6 We may fay as much of our snanufactures. Ass long as their ope.
rations fhall keep pace with the exploration of our mines, our currency
will be increafed, both by what we employ to pay foreign induftry,
and with the furplus of what is furnifhed: by Mexico'and Peru. _ Nor
do we fee any thing dreadful in the profpect. We afk, on the contrary,
what are the moft flourifhing nations. Are they not France and Eng-
land, thofe who have by far the moft abundant currency? Of what
confequence is the fource from whence it {prings ? The combined pro-
dué of our mines and of our induftry, it will {till be ufeful to Spain in
the hands of great capitalifts, who will embellifh our cities and country;
will furnifh funds for public eftablifhments, and will fupply the ftate in
critical periods with loans at a lower intereft than formerly, We agree,
neverthelefs, that the hour may come when our profperity, carried to
the utmoft, will bring on our decline: this will ‘\;,. 1-when our ma-
nufactures fhall become fo ative and complete as .v render foreign in-
duftry ufelefs. If at the fame time the produ& of our mines tended
always to increafe our currency, without its finding any emanation, cere
tainly this fituation, which muft however be regarded as a mere hy pothefis,
would have invincible inconveniences. The exceffive dearnefs S| manual
labour in Spain would introduce, in fpite of all oppofition, the pro-
ductions of foreign manufatures. The currency would efcape, by the
wide channels thus offered; the national manufactures would languith ;
the workmen difappear from the want of employment: and Spain would
be again abandoned to. depopulation, idlenefs, and poverty. But the
circumftances which might realize this profpeé are very remote ; and
in waiting till a more imminent danger may condemn to inaétivity
either our manufactures, or our mines, we think that we may cen-
tinue to draw from that double fource our future profperity.”’
Befides gold and filver, many other metals are found in the vice-
royalty. Not far from the capital are mines of tin, of which M. Hum.
boldt brought fpecimens to Paris, moftly chryftalifed, and refembling
thofe of Saxony. This rare metal is alfo found in New Mexico *,
Copper has already been mentioned, in defcribing the rich mines of
Guanajuato; and mines of the fame metal are worked to the welt of
Pafquaro, the capital of Mechoacan+. Lead is among the produés
of New Leon.
Further information on this interefling topic may be derived from the
recent publication of the German baron Humboldt. He fays that the
moft confiderable mines of Pcru are thofe of Potofi, (which are in
La Plata!) Pafco, and Chota, which are all confiderable heights ;
while thofe of New Spain, Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Tafco, and Real
del Monte are of moderate elévation. he chief mines of the In-
tendancy of Mexico, are the Veta Bifcaina de Real del Monte, near
Pachuca ; ik el Doétor,xand Tehulilotepec, near Tafco. One
mine near Sombrerete, difplayed the greateft richuefs ever found in
® Clavigero fays, i. 367, that the Mexicans ufed thin pieces of tin, and bits of copp
in the thape of a hammer, as money. The abief tin mines are now near Durango. Bit.
xxvii, 239.
+ The principal copper mines feem to be in the neighbourhood of Pafyuago, and the
trade of chat city is chiefly derived from them. Effalla, xxvii. 90.
5 any
FE
636 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
any vein, The mines of Guanajuato are at prefent more produAtive
than thofe of Potofi, or-any other mines ever have been. ‘The mines
‘of Catorce, which produce about 800,0co0l. a year, were only dif.
covered in 1773. e erroneoufly afferts, that the neareft mines to
Louifiana are thofe of Catorce, in the parallel of the town of New
Santander, lat. 23° 40', fo that they are about 300 leagues diftant,
The contrary, as already obferved, is clear from his own map, and
Pike’s Travels*. , ,
Amber and afphalt likewife occur in New Spain: and among the
precious ftones a few diamonds, as is faid, with amethyfts and tur.
quoifes 5 but the lift is imperfect, and perhaps erroneous, The moun.
tains alfo produce jafper, marble, qlabafter, magnet, fteatite, jad, talc,
The ftone called setzontli, red and porous, war ufed in building, being
perhaps a kind of tufa. The its 4 is femi-tranfparent, of a glaffy fub.
ftance, and generally black, but ulfo found white and blue: it was
ufed in mirrors, and alfo for fharp. inftruments, being the fame called
pietra del Galinazzo in South America, the obfidian or volcanic glafs
of modern mineralogy t.
In the province of Tecali, to the S.E. of Puebla, is found a conf.
derable quarry, of what Alcedo ‘calls marble, of a green and white
colour, of which altars for churches have been <onftruéted,, and even
lanterns as clear as glafs. Among the moft fingular foffils may be
mentioned the bones of elephants, mentioned by Eftallat. On dig.
ging the foundations of the convent of Guadalupe, near Mexico, thefe
bones were. found in different parts, lying upon fand, at the depth of
four yards, above was {and and hard clay. ‘The fame bones were found
in excavations in the hill Tepeyac. A tufk found at Guadalupe was
three Spanifh yards and one-third in length, fo that the animal feemed
to be greater than the elephant. But they are the fame with thofe of
the mammoth of Siberia and North America, which feems to have
been a large fpecies of elephant, adapted to cold climates, but now
extin& §,
® Humb. 43. 237. 261. 246. 286. 988. The fine marble of Puebla is found within
a few leagues of that city. One kind, that of Tecali, is tranflucent, like the alabafter of
Volterra, and the phengites of the ancients. Ib. 243.
+ At the end'of D’Auteroche’s voyage to California, there is a curious letter from
Alzate, a Mexican gentleman, to the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, on the natural
hiftory of New Spain. He mentions fome trees of furprifing fize, one of them fifty feet
in circumference ; and, perhaps creduloufly, reports that, in digging a mine in the pro-
vince of Roucra, petrified human bodies were found, which yielded a confiderable quantity
of filver. The large teeth and bones feem to be the fame with thofe of the mammoth;
and he obfcurely deferibes bafaltic columns, The bell ftone is probably the fonorous marble
of bine, The cedar filver ore of Huajanato (Guanajuato ?) feems only dendritic, mingled
with fpar.
He mciden, or Fernandez, phyfician to Philip II. of Spain, who wrote ‘about 1580,
compiled a large colle&tion in manufcript concernivg the natural hiftory of New Spain.
An abridgement was publifhed by Ximenez, in Spanith.and afterwards tranflated into
Latin, and publithed at Rome, 1651, folio. ‘Ihe minerals are enumerated in the
tenth book, in the imperfect manner then pra¢tifed, and with a ridiculous reference
to.their ufes in, medicine. In the Supplement, however, the ohjeAs'are fuch as have no ufe
‘im medicine; and among others he mentions, p. 85, the tecvitlati, a kind of earth, rifing
to the furface of the lakes, which was preferved:as cheefe, and eaten with maize. The
cakes prepared from it, though the fmell was that of nud, tafted like cheefe, and the
colour was yellow or green.. Some lakes thus yielded a confiderable income to. the pro-
rietors. '
. { Eftalla, xxvii. 250. Humboldt found them on the Andes, at the height of eight or
ten thoufand feet,
§ See the Eifai de Geologie of Mi Faujas, p. 257,
3 Narurav
Natura co
rious qualities, {
of great heat, |
volcanoes, there
able being the P
bridge in the ter
miles S. E. fron
river, called the
but it feems unc
a rocky mountaii
an earthquake.
be mentioned th
laxara and the |.
Mexico were art
twifted willows,
“ About one |
or hill of load it
veyed it, informe
limeftone ; he ha
was preparing for
to accompany it,
alcertained with 1
A fingular gro
12 leagues from }
amygdalite, and ¢
alfo appears, quit
iron and nickel,
ftones. .
The famous A
is feventy-three fe
baobab or Adanfo
Are not both . e
enormous cyprefs
circumference, b
In the province
as it abounds with
is, between two
tached receffes, ab
which appear alal
water is heard, w
diftance from the
rolls like a fea, a
vanifhes under gro
picturefque cataraé
Spain, the whole
fity. But the ind
prefer Puerile aéts ¢
ime devotion whic
creation,
* Pike's travels,
+ Humb, 241, 969,
re are m ful
to Eftalla, there ia to "
Silan and Cuyo, on the
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 637,
NaturaAL curiosities.] There are feveral mineral waters of ya-
yious qualities, fulphureous, vitriolic, and aluminous ; and fome {prings.
of great heat, but none feem particularly diftinguifhed. Befides the
volcanoes, there are many neural cnriofities, one of the moft remark.
able ‘being the Ponte de Dios, or bridge of God, refembling the natural
bridge in the territory of the United States. It is about one hundred
miles S. E. from Mexico, near the village of Molcaxac, over_a deep
river, called the Aquetoyaque, and is conftantly paffed as a high-way 5
but it feems uncertain whether the river have worn the paffage through
a rocky mountain, or the fragment be part of a fallen hill detached by
an earthquake. ‘There are many romantic cataracts, among which muit
be mentioned thofe of the river Barnaja, between the city of Guada-
laxara and the lake of Chapala. The floating gardens in the lake of
Mexico were artificial curiofities, the bottom being formed. of inter-.
twifted willows, |
« About one hundred miles fouth of Chihuahua there is a mountain,
or hill of load ftones. ‘Walker, who had been on the ground and fur-
veyed it, informed me, it appeared to be in folid ftrata, as regular as
limeftone ; he had -brought home a {quare piece of néar 1% foot, and
was preparing fome to be fent to Spain, and likewife forming magnets
to accompany it, in order that their comparative ftrength might be
alcertained with magnets formed in Europe *.” ;
A fingular group of rocks arifes not far from Durango, being about
12 leagues from N.to S. They confift of what Humboldt calls bafaltic
sis gfalted, and are faid to be covered with fcorie. Near Durango
alfo appears, quite detached upon a plain, an enormous mafs of native
iron and nickel, correfponding in compofition with the meteoric
ftones. »
The famous Ahahuete, or cyprefs, in the Intendancy ot Puebla,
is feventy-three feet in circumference. One or two others alfo rival the
baobab or Adanfonia of Senegal, efteemed the largeft kind in the world.
Are not both equalled by the famous chefnut tree of Etna? An
enormous cyprefs three leagues from Oaxaca, is faid to be 36 yards in
circumference, but fome affert that there are three trunks conjoined t-
In the province of Vera Paz, which feems to be chiefly calcareous,
as it abounds with {pots where rivers fuddenly fink under ground, there
is, between two high ridges, a cave of great extent, with many de-
tached receffes, abounding with beautiful ftalactitic columns and figures,
which appear alabalter {. The cold is extreme, and a great noife of
water is heard, which rufhing from various parts, forms, at a little
diftance from the mouth of the cave, a lake of great depth, which
rolls like a fea, and gives birth to a river, which in a fhort {pace
vanifhes under ground §, This province alfo abounds with lofty and
picturefque cataraéts, which are likewife frequent in many parts of New
Spain, the whole of which may in faét be regarded as one natural curio.
fity. But the indolent fuperitition of the inhabitants leads them to
preter puerile aéts of lazy and pretended devotion, to that real and fub.
i
me devotion, which contemplates the hand of God in the works of his
creation. ; sik
© Pike's travels.
+ Humb, 241, 264. 299. ¢ Efftalla, xxvii. 169.
§ There are many fubterranean rivers in the province of Yucatan, where, according
to Eftalla, there is no large vifible ftream, except that of Lagartus, hetwecn the ports of
Silan and Cuyo, on the N, of this peninfula,
;, On
- 638 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
On the fea coaft of Florida the fhooting of the ftars, as it is termed
is fometimes fo general throughout the firmament, as to appear like a
grand fire-work of fky rockets, flying in all direGtions, a {pe@acle fin.
gularly awful and fublime *. The bodies of dead fith filling the ocean
with phofphoric matter, and a vaft weight of water flowing into the
gulf of Mexico, and protably bringing prodigious numbers of thele
ies, may not this appearance arife from the evaporation of the phof.
phorus under the ftrong heat of a tropical fun ?
REMOTE AND DISTINCT PROVINCES.
As in fome countries the stefcription of the appendant iflands ‘as
been neceffarily fubjoined, fo in fome it may be proper, for the fake of
greater clearnefs and preeifion, to give fhort accounts of detached pro,
vinces, which cannot fo well eiiter into the general aud compat de,
lineation of the political and natural ftate of a country, confidered on
a large and seul geographic fcale. Thus, in a defcription of the
Pruflian dominions, the diftri& wf Neofchatel becomes heterogeneous,
and might be detached.. Sweder is in the fame predicament, with re,
fpe&t to Pomerania. In like matiner, fince the preven of Louifiang
has pafied to the United Stater, the Floridas have become feparate
provinces ; and California is nearly as detached from New Spain as if it
were an ifland, and has always beén treated apart by the Spanith authors,
Of New Mexico fome account has been given in defcribing the re.
markable town of Santa Fé. It is a poor provisce, though the land
be fertile, but productive of no gactals, The bone maps abound .
with imaginary kingdoms, towns, and villages. The Indians of the
North have moftly retired beyond thie river Gila, towards the Zaguanas,
and mountains de las Grullas +. :
Froripa.] Eaft and Weft Florida were for a confiderable time —
fubje& to Great Britain, and found by experience to be of little utility
or importance. But to the Unitec’ States the poffeffion would be
valuable, on account of the extent af coaft, and as giving a compad,
uniformity to their dominions. ‘hig ceffion , might alfo be prudent
on the part of Spain, as diverting the attention of the States from the
riches of the weit, and as amean of amity. Weft Florida, in particular,
is chiefly ufeful as prefenting avenues af commerce. The population
is very inconfiderable, Mobile and Penfa:cola together not containing
above 1500 foulst. It is the river Conacuh, not the Echambia, that
runs into the bay of Penfacola. The interior of Eaft Florida is little
known, and only inhabited by a few wandering Creeks or Seminols.
The town of St. Auguttin is found not to be. fo unhealthy as had been
conceived ; ard in the hands of an induftrious people, the draining of
the inland marfhes might improve, beyond all conception, the climate
and appearance of the country which often joins the pernicious mixture
of heat and humidity. The natural hiftory is not unfamiliar to the
Englith reader, the couritry having been fo long in our poffeffion §.
Cartrornia.} Of California tedious defcriptions have been pub,
lihed and tranflated into the Englifh language, to which the patient
# Ellicott’s Journal, p. 248, + Humb, 301. 80,
3 Ellicott, p. 236 and 974 | ’
; Sce Stork’s defcription of Haft Florida, with Pertram’s Joumnel, Lyndon, 1769, i
. reauer
reader may be re
as far as the Ca
there is a tribe o
northern favages
centre of the pen
The Spanith po:
confifling of fome
¢limate feems to b
while water-fpout
ferve to diverfity ¢
great variety of b;
of foxes and othe:
with part of Chin;
In California th;
afew clouds appea
purple, and green
South Sea by ‘Dr.
' The northern pr
by the Spanith acc,
concerning Nootka
the Englith to form
by the Spanith vy
account of the Spa
America in 1792, a
this region is poflef
are much diperfed,
manners differ little
that after death the
In this work may |
California, from St.
The principal yarri
rable foil, for La Pe
his account even the
he vifited it'at a pa
* Eftalla, xxvi. 16,
+ Foran accéune of ¢}
printed And of a Domin
Covers the moauntains an
with food, drink, and ss
vines, peaches, all whic
fib are abundant, and fo:
RUN to curry Gu a tur tr
@Real, or Mining Ration
of the favages has of fate |
diforders, efpecially that
California, The whole mi
aid fifteen fouls, and fixt
} Humb, 943, 7
d § New Calitornia hegi
‘lifornia, Was founded in
Drake, which is more to
fumb, 327. But ubis aut
tl Relacion del viag he
Pl, pherey, and ¢
et with imme
Via nfe fores
SPANISH DOMINIONS. 639°
reader may be referred. The favage tribes are the Eduesin the fouth,
ao far as the Cape St. Lucas, but they cull themfelves Monquis; and
there is a tribe of the fame name on the weft of New Mexico. The
northern favages are the Laymones, or Cochimies*. Towards the
centre of the peninfula fome volcanoes are faid to have been difcovered.
Nhe Spanith poffeffion is only marked by little ftations of miffions,
confifting of fome hovels, with a poor cottage called a church. The
climate feems to be divided between exceffive cold and torrents of rain,
while water-fpouts and hurricanes are not unfrequent, and thick foga
ferve to diverfity thefe advantages. The foil feems alfo to difplay a
great variety of barrennefs, ‘The chief product is derived from the fur
of foxes and other animals. Such is a country under the fame latitude
with part of China, Hindoftan, Perfia, and Eyypt t+.
In California the fky is conftantly ferene, of a deep blue; and if
afew clouds appear at funfet, they prefent the richeft tints of violet,
purple, and green t, the latter phenomenon was alfo.obferved in the
South Sea by Dr. Forfter, es
- The northern province, or what is called New California, extends,
by the Spanifh accounts, to Cape Mendocino, which fince the difputes
concerning Nootka Sound and the following treaty, which - permitted
the Englifh to form fettlements as far as that promontory, is regarded
by the Spanith writers as at leaft a temporary boundary §. The
account of the Spanith voyage of difcovery on the north-welt coaft of
America in 1792, and publifhed at Madrid in 1802 ||,informs us that
this region is poffeffed by two nations, the Eflenes and Runfienes, who
are much di{perfed, and fhew little reverence for their chiefs. Their
manners differ little from thofe of the other tribes; but they imagine
that after death they are changed into owls, which is not improbable.
In this work may be found a table of the miffionary ftations of New
California, from St. Diego in the S. as far.as St. Francifco in the N.
The principal yarrifon is that of Monterey, founded 1769, in a tole-
rable foil, for La Peroufe obferved maize, barley, aud peas q ; and by
hjs account even the climate of the peninfula is mild though foggy ; but
he vifited it at a particular feafon, and could only fee a little of the.
* Eftalla, xxvi. 18.
+ Foran accdune of the flate of California in 1794, fee Eftulla, xxvi. 94, from three
printed letters of a Dominican mifionary. ‘The moft common plant is the Mezcale, which
covers the mountains and valleys, and, like the maguey of the fouth, fupplies the favages
with food, drink, and clothing. ‘Ihe miilionaries have planted olives, figs, pomegranates,
vines, peaches, all which produce abundauily, But though the land be generally hurren,
fh are abundant, and fome of the fhells are exquifitely beautiful. ‘The Spaniards have
begun to carry Gu a tur trade with Chins, At 24°, near the miffion of All Saints, there is
Real, or mining ftation, called St. Ann, and the filver is of great purity. The number
ofthe favages has of tate been prodigioutly reduced by the venegeal difeate, and epidemical
diforders, efpecially that of 1788. Saw Diego is the moft fouthern mittion of New
California, The whole miffions in 1787 were feventeen hamlets, containing three thoufand
aid fifteen fouls, and fixty foldiers.
$ Humb. 841.
§ New Cafitornia begins at 32°.N. lat. Efftalla, xxvi. 7. San Francifco, in New
California, was founded in 2776. Ut has been cov.tounded with the port of Sir Francis
Drake, which is more to the N, urder 48° 10’; and called by the Spaniards Bodegas.
Jlumb. 397. But this author mutt be ufed with caution.
{| Relacion de? viage hecho pur las goletas Sutil y Mexicana, &e. 4to. with an Atlas,
Krom Monterey, and even from the Red River to Cape Mendocit.o, the country is
aie with immpenfe foreits of pines, and other trees, KEitalla, xavi, 32.
i, 200,
coat,
640 SPANISH DOMINIONS.
imony of the Spanifh writers muft be preferred,
Muna. Bi onda baled obervation in 2 art ie ee 3f
mies i weft of Cadiz 115° 47 ‘ ells
35! ts ’ at are betarifalt Sastlciatarly the aliotis myde. In the back
ont Ab hia are volcanoes, whofe fires ate diftinguifhable by night,
By th. account of the Spanifh voyage the hae Sk of Nutka, or
y the ‘e anthropophagi, like thofe of New ealand, and fome
2 bla shat Paclie A introduction to this interefting voyage
onset tant of Spanifth difcoveries in this quarter fince the time of
aon : b ah sblecves that there is no mention whatever of Fuca, nor.
Colon; an hole pretended difcaveries of ftraits and feas have amufed
of rit Aes “tts LAR the naval records, nor in the archives of Spain,
fo heal Te of 1775, at lat. 56° 8’, high mountains were obferved,
sel b wlete tote ae that of St. Jacinto ftands feparate, ona cape
culled’ Engaho (lat. 57° 2’, long. W. of Cadiz 129° 40/), in’ the fhape
called nee which torrents of water run into the fea, forming a
of atifal ; ofpeet + They faw mount Elias, ‘covered with brilliant
beantifu ee vali the furrounding forefts of pines; and faa
ah ‘h ‘ fea was eftimated at fix thoufand five hundred ai ao
ety f Cattle or about fourteen thoufand fix hundred Eres i
The Raffian fettlements near Cook’s river, and in Me ee ae a %
oul contained each about forty or fifty perfons. BE: 60° y yi
, ft fingular circumftance occurred, for in N. lat. 60' a
1798 amo Bt Prince William’s Sound, a horrid noife being heard,
is by our maps fent afhore, and it was difcovered that it preee from
beh aan ‘in ‘isteted with fnow, trozos or truncheons of whic mt
«do ve atk ith great force and dreadful noife $. This entirety et phe.
sein ae Fa s proceed from fubterranean winds, for any cgree
of volcanic Kes would melt the fnow ; and i HE diet fadguie sat
re re repeated, great Hee:
that it bade un at dipla ae Pa Phe whole Spanith Publication,
The truth and explication mnft be left to future enquirers.
*. In general the Spaniards count the longitude from the ifle of Ferra round the
globe > thus the Cape of Corrientes is 2689 10’.
$ P. ex.
+ P. xcv.
BRITISH
St Lawrence, and if
CANADA, me Divi
— Revenues, -—
— Manufaures
Country, — Soi}
Zoology. — Min,
Nova Scoria,
MUDAS.
HOSE parts
tain are ext
thinly peopled, an
into infignificance, |
belonging to § ain,
iikesbtrarts of Maa
thofe of the States.
exceed two hundre:
and natives,
. Divistons.] Th
into two provinces,
ing the weltern divit
nada; while the lo
the eafty and contair
maining fettlements,
On the eat of
is Nova, Scotia; w
of Nova Scotia int
What is,called Ne
‘wards Hudfon’s Ba
Newfoundland ; that
St. John s complete
inthe Englith maps
other wank northern
afar fouth as the 1
colour of Britith ter
complete and precif
at belonging to Engl
ropean nations, But
the eftablifhment of ;
fefs no fubjeQion, th
fon’s Bay, with Lab
leverity of the climat
the Unconquered Cc
fore only comprife Ce
which form a@ual pof
Extent. ] Tus c
( 64: )
BRITISH POSSESSIONS
IN NORTH AMERICA.
Canada. = Divifions. — Extent.— Religion.—Goverument.— Population.
— Revenues: — Manners and Cuftoms. — Language. — Cities'and Towns.
— Manufaiures and Commerce.—Climate and Seafons.— Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains.—
Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Natural Coan am Brunswicx.—_
B
Nova Scoria.— Care Breroni'—
‘MUDAS.
WFOUNDLAND.—1HE BeEr-
fp parts of North America which ftill belong to Great Bri-
tain arc extenfive, and of confiderable importance, though fo
thinly peopled, and in fuch a difadvantageous climate, that they fink
into infignificance, when compared with the great and flourifhing colonies
belonging to Spain, or with the territories of the United States. The
inhabitants of the former have been eftimated at feven millions, and
thofe of the States at five ; while thofe of the Britith poffeffions fcarcely
exceed two hundred thoufand fouls, and the far greater part aie Frencis
and natives.
-Divistens.]. The chief of thefe poffeffions is Canada, now divided
into two provinces, called Upper and Lower Canada; the former be-
ing the weltern divifion, on the north of the great lake or fea of Ca-
nada; while the lower divifion is on the river St. Lawrence towards
the eaft, and contains Quebec the capital, and the chief city of our r=.
maining fettlements.
On the eaft of Canada, to the fouth of the river St. iawrence
is Nova,Scotia; which in 1784 was divided into two prov.ices, that
of Nova Scotia in the fouth, and New Brunfwick in the.north.
What is called New Britain comprehends the moft northern parts to-
‘wards Hudfon’s Bay, and the coaft of Labrador. The large ifland of
Newfoundland; that called Cape Breton; and the neighbouring ifle
St. John ; complete the chief denominations of Britith territory. But
inthe Englith maps, while Greenland is affigned to Denmark, all the
other moft northern parts of America, on the eaft and on the weft,
as far fouth as the port of Sir Francis Drake, are imprefled with the
colour of Britifh territory. By the right of prior, or at leaft of more
complete and precife difcovery, the weftern coalt might be confidered
as belonging to England, according to the eftablifhed ufage of all Eu-
ropean nations. But no actual fettlement having tatten place, except
the eltablifhment of a few detached faGtories, to wich the natives pro-
fefs no fubje@ion, this country, together with the regions around Hud.
fon’s Bay, with Labrador and Greenland, which are, from the intenfe
feverity of the climate, declared free by nature, thall be claffed among
the Unconquered Countries. The prefeiut fhort defcription will there-
fore only comprife Canada, and the other Britifh provinces in the fouth,
which form atual poffeffions or colonies.
CANADA. “3
Exrent.] Tis country is computed to extend from the gulf of
St. Lawrence, and ifle of Anticotti, in the eaft, to the lake of Wine
Tt ie nipeg
’
ne acing acrid epi enen —epoat came rong ITD ei I cil Tit asa ; Acne z
°
: af = = 3
. e re sas Sh es,
See ona seam
642 BRITISH POSSESSIONS
nipeg in the welt, or from long. 64° to 97° weft from London, thirty.
“three degrees, which in that latitude may be about 1200 g. miles. The
breadth from the lake of Erie, in the fouth, or lat. 43°) may extend
to lat. 49°, or 360 g. miles ; but the medial breadth is not above 200,
The original population confifted of feveral favage tribes, whofe names
and manners may be traced in the early French accounts, which may
alfo be confulted for the progreflive difcovery, the firft fettlement bein
at Quebec in 1608. During a century and a half that the French P
fefled Canada they made many difcoveries towards the weft; and t °
hontan, in the end. of the feventeenth century, has given a tolerable ac.
count of fome lakes beyond that. called Superior, and of the river Mif.
fouri. Quebec being conquered by Wolfe 1759, Canada ,was ceded
to Great Britain by the treaty of Paris 1763.
Reuiaiow.] The scligion is the Roman Catholic, but the Britith
fettlers follow: their own modes: of worfhip. There are only twelve
clergymen of the church of England, including the bithop of Quebec;
while the Catholic clergy are 126. By an att paffed in 1791 a legifla.
tive council, and an aflembly, are appointed for each of the provinces
of Upper and Lower Cinada, having power to make laws with the
confent of the governor; but the king may declare his diffent at an
time within two years after receiving any bill. ‘The legiflative councit
is to confift of feven members for Upper Canada, and fifteen for the
Lower province, fummoned by the governor under the king’s authority,
and neminated during their lives, except forfeited by an ab of four
. » or by paying allegiance to a foreign power. The heufe of af.
Tembly is to confift of fie members from Lower Canada, and fixteen
from Upper Canada, chofen by the freeholders in the towns and dif.
tricts. ‘Thefe councils are to affemble at lea{t once every year » and the
houfe of affembly continues four years, except in cafe of prior di
tion. Britith America is fuperintended by an officer ftyled Governor.
Gencral of the four Britifh Provinces in North America, who, befides
other powers is Commander in Chief of all the Britith troops in the
four provinces, and the governments attached to them, and Newfound.
land. Each of the provinces has a lieutenant-governor, who, inthe ab.
fence of the governor-general, has all the powers requifite to a chief
magiftrate *.
OPULATION.] The population of the two Canadas, according to an
actual enumeration codered | by l Haldimand in 1784, amounted to
113,012 French and Englith, exclufive of 10,000 loyaliits in the upper
parts. The favages may perhaps amount to 30,000. It is probable
that the population has increafed fince that period. only revenue
arifing to Great Britain from this colony feems to proceed from an advan.
tageous commerce, which is faid to employ about feven thoufand tons
tripping. The expences of the civil lilt are {uppofed to be 25,0001.
of w f is paid by Great Britain, and the other by the provinces,
from duties on the importation of fpirits, wine, and a few other articles.
The military eftablifhment, with repairs of forts, &c., is ftated at
100,000] 5 and the like fum ‘for pretents to the favages, and falaries to
officers employed among them for trade, &c. in Upper Canada. But
the advantages cf the commerce are thought to counterbalance thele
expences.
ANNERS AND Customs. ] ‘The manners and cufloms of the fettlers
in Car. 4a are confiderably tinétured with the I'rench gaiecty and ur
© Mosfe, 114. :
banity.
rita cy
banity. The
aad are thus {
tained ; but fiy
The inhabitants
French ; and th
fpire to render
by traders and
ugly, and incon
there is no citg
almoft exting ;
pe and the |
ents moft fublin
morenci are part
Montreal is a
ed by the river
which is the bou
miles above Quet
from the fea; bu
This town contai
fand fouls 3 with
four convents,
Canada for Eng
whence the fur ¢
“ York is the
43° 35°. N. lat.
name, fufficient
5 remy '
et, with
ports are fpirits,
© Weld’s
tik iene
IN NORTH AMERICA. . 643
banity. The French women in Canada can generally read and write,
, and aré thus fuperior to the men;. but both are funk in ignorance and
" f jon, and blindly devoted to their pricfts. They univerfally
. ule-the Prench language, Englifh being reftriéted to the few Britith
$ fettlers.
y The chief town is Quebec, built on a lofty point of land on the
northewelt fide of the great river St. Lawrence; which in the neigh-
P pourhood is fufficiently deep and fpacious to float more than one hun-
4° dred fail of the line. ‘The upper town, on a rock of limeftone, is of
Ce confiderable natural ftrength, and well fortified ; but the lower town
if. towards the river is open to every attack. A lage garrifon is main-
ed tained 3 but five thoufand foldiers would be neceffarly to man the works,
The inhabitants are fuppofed to be ten thoufand, about two-thirds being
ith French; andthe prefence of the governor, courts, and garrifon, con-
ve fpire to render it gay and lively. ‘The lower town is moftly. inhabited
C5 by traders and mariners. The houfes are commonly of ftone, fmall,
lae ugly, and inconvenient ; but the new part of the governor’s houfe, for
ces there is no citadel, is upon an improved plan. The monafteries are
the almoft extin® ; yet there are three nunneries. The market is well fup-
any lied ; and the little carts are often drawn by dogs. The vicinity pre-
ncit bats mott fublime and beautiful fcenery ; and the falls of the river Mont.
the morenci are particularly celebrated.
ity, Montreal is a neat town on the eaft fide of a confiderable ifland form-
four ed by the river St. Lawrence at ita junGion with the river Utawas,
af. which is the boundary between Lower and Upper Canada, about 150
teen miles above Quebec. This is the utmoft point to which fhips can afcend
dif. from the fea; but for large veffels the navigation is tedious and difficult.
the This town contains about twelve hundred houfes, and probably fix thou-
find fouls 3 with fix churches, four of which are Roman Catholic, and
nore four convents. The chief trade is in furs, which are thence fent to
des Canada for England. The canoes are chiefly employed on the Utawas,
n the whence the fur traders proceed acrofs to lake Winnipeg.
und. “ York is the feat of government of Upper Canada, and lies in about
ab- Hie 43° 5. N. lat. It is fituated within an excellent harbour of the fame
chief name, fufficiently to contain a confiderable fleet *.”’
At the grand 8 of the river St. Lawrence, on the lake Ontario,
rear what fo the Lake of a Thoufand Iflands, ftands the town of
Kingfton, more remarkable from its pofition than any other circum.
fiance. The forts of Niagara aud Detroit belong to the fouthern or
American fide of the boundary +. The little town of Trois Rivitres,
or Three Rivers, ftande between Quebec and Montreal, and is chiefly
remarkable for the refort of the favages: but though it contain little
nore than 250 houfes, it is confidered ag the third town in Britih Ame-
rica. Sorelle was founded in: 1787..for the American loyalifts, but
contains only one hundred fcattered honfes: it is at the diftance of
preps from Montreal towards Quebec; and the chief bufinefs is
8
gh ll axD comyenoe.]} The principal exports are furs
ud peltries, with fome fith, potafh, and American ginfeng. The im-
ports are {pirite, wines, tobaeco, fagar, falt, and provilions for the
troops, EE fome linen, and coarfe woollen cloths, manufactured
mies are chicfly imported from England.
© Weld’s Travels. + See ib, vol. U. p. 64, &e,
2 Db ii, 22. °
Tts
Cumate
644 BRITISH POSSESSIONS
(ATE AND SEASONS. } The extremes of heat and cold are amaze,
Regi aiaersant in ily and Augutt rifing to 96, while in winter
the mercury freezes. The {now begins in November; and in ganas
the froft is fo intenfe that it is impoffible to be out of doors for any
time without the rifk of what is called a froft bite, which endangers the
limb s and the warm intervajs only increafe the fenfation and the jeo-
ardy.. But winter, as at Peterfburg, 1s the feafon of amufement; aad
rnc fledges drawn bv one or two horfes, afford a pleafant and {peedy
conveyance. Several ftoves are placed in the hall, whence flues pafs to
the apartments; and there are double windows and doors. On goin
abroad the whole body is covered with furs, except the eyes and nofe,
In May the thaw generally comes fuddenly, the ice on the river buriting
with the noife of cannon; and its paffage to the fea is terrific, efpecially
when a pile of ice crafhes againit a rock. Spring is fummer; and
vegetation mitantaneous. The month of September is one of the moft
pleafant. , * a
E COUNTRY. | The face of the country is generally moun
msg pices > but teh are favannas and plams, of great beauty,
chiefly towards Upper Canada. In the lower province the foil moftly
confifts of a loofe blackith earth of ten or twelve inches, incumbent on
eoldclay. This thin moukl is however very fertile, and manure was fel-
dom or never ufed by the French fettlers ; but of late marle has been em-
i d in confiderable quantities on the fhores of the river
ployed, and is foun dle qua , Neel give
St. Lawrence. A little tobacco is cultivated for private ufe, wit! any
culinary vegetables, and confiderable crops of grain, wheat being reckoned
among the exports ; a kind of vine is indigenous, but the grapes are four,
and little larger than currants*. Rafpberries are alfo indigenous; and
there are. good currants and goofeberries. A great variety of trees is
found in the forelts ; beach, oak, elm, afh, pine, fycamore, chefnut, ma
nut, &c. The fugar maple tree alfo abounds, and the fugar is generally
wire aati y Lawrence has been already deferibéd in the gene.
ral view of North America, ‘Fhe Utawas is the moft important of °
its tributary ftreams, iffuing. from various lakes, towards the centre o
Canada : ite waters are of a bright greenith colour, while the ot dy
is muddy. Many rivers of fmatler confequence flow into the river
St. -hewrente from the north. ‘The large lakes have been alfo already
mentioned z there are many others of which the enumeration would be
tedious'; and fome difficulty arifes from the want of any precife boundary
ih the north of, Canada. Nor have the mountains been examined by any
\ geologift, who could indicate their ranges or illuftrate their ftructure,
The Ken ridge feems to be in the northern part of the province, ina
direGtion S.W. and N.E.. giving fource to the many, ftreams which flow
S.E., while a few pafs:to Wudion’s Bay. But there are many wg
between Quebec and the fea, while towards the Wtawas o Y a few are
feattered, and to the $.W.-there are atple Taine. Bsa poles
the beaver, and. fome other anin
N th Asaic Zeology may be confulted,...'he rein.deer appears
in the nerthern part, and the puma and lynx-are not unknown. ys
the Canadas-are much infefted witlt rattle aoe F stl conte -
uncom ec #. The mineralogy is of ey
and even iron { teaipto be pi There are fd to be lead mines which:
© Weld, 1: 061+ This kind of viserprobebly gave name to the Norwegian Vink.
+ Kalm, ih 950. :
produce fome {
it appears in the
Cape Breton, bi
The chief natur
racts. Among
fide of Upper C
142 feet. A fn
the States is 35°
a conftant cl.
dible diftance 5 2
THE ancient pi
fecretary Sir Wi
afterwards feized
poffeflors, and by
to England by th
it was divided inte
the former there ;
called St. John’s ;
the province of M
John is navigable f
about two hundrec
bafs and fturgeon
often fertile, level
common and near r
the Grand Lake
chain of Apalachia
robably expiring
rederick-town on
St. Ann’s ie almo
nearer the bay of
of favages called t
chief produ@s are
Tuts province j
breadth, eing infe
fidera le rivers, amo
for thifs-of 190 ton
ova Scotia, extend
tide being from fort
hay of Chebuéto,
nd and water, witl
Shere is a good harb
In protecting the fith
trenched, with forts
oufand inhabitante
? Bee Kalin, ii, 04
IN NORTH AMERICA, ' 645
roduce fome filver*; and it is probable that copper may ‘be found, as
it appears in the S. W. of Jake Superior. Coal abounds in the ifland-of _
Cape Breton, but this valuable mineral has not been difcovered in Canada.
The chief natural curiofities feem te be the grand lakes, rivers, and cata-
racts. Among the latter the celebrated falls of Niagara are chiefly on the
fide of Upper Canada, the river being there 600 yards wide, and the fall
142 feet. A {mall ifland lies between the falls; and that on the fide of
the States is 350 ya:cn wide, while the height is 163 feet : from the great
fall a conftant clou4 afcends, which may fometimes be feen at an incre-
gible diftance , and the whole feene is truly tremendous.
NEW BRUNSWICK.
THE ancient province of Nova Scotia was granted by James L. to his
fecretary Sir William Alexander, afterwards earl of Stirling. It was
afterwards feized by the French, who feem indeed to have been the firft
poffeffors, and by whom it was called Acadie+; but it was furrendered
to England by the treaty of Utrecht 1713. In 1784, as already ftated,
it was divided into two provinces, New Brunfwick and Nova Scotia. In
the former there are two confiderable bays, and a river of fome eg
called St. John’s ; while that of St. Croix divides New Brunfwick from
the province of Main, belonging to the United States. The river of St,
John is navigable for veffels of fifty tons about fixty miles; and for boats
about two hundred ; the tide flowing about eighty. The fith are falmon,
bafs and 9g, and the banks enriched by the annual frefhets, are
often fertile, level and covered with large: trees. This river affords a
common arid near ruute to Quebec. There are many lakes, among which
the Grand Lake is 30 miles long, and about nine broad, The great
chain of Apalachian mountaias paffes on the N. W. of this province,
robably expiring at the gulf of St. Lawrence, The capital is
Frederick-town on the river St. John, about ninety miles from its eftuary,
St. Ann’s ie almoft oppofite; and there are fome other fettlements
nearer the, bay of Fundi, with a fort called Howe. There is a tribe
of favages called the Marechites, eflimated at 140 fighting men, The
chief produds are timber and fifh,
NOVA SCOTIA,
Tits province is about 300 miles in length, by about 80 of medial
breadth, being inferior in fize to New Brunfwick. ‘There are feveral cone
fiderable rivers, among which that of Annapolis is navigable fifteen miles,
for thifs-of 190 tons, The bay of Fundi, between New Brunfwick and
Nova Scotia, extends fifty leagues inland ; the ebb and flowing of the
tide being from forty-five to Axty feet, The capital is Halifax, on the
hay of Chebuéto, well fituated tor the fithery, with communications, by
land and water, with other parts of this province and New Brunfwick {,
There is a good harbour, where a {mall fquadron of thips of war, employed
in protecting the fithing veffele, is laid up in the winter. ‘The town is en.
trenched, with forts of timber, and is faid to contain fifteen or fixteen
thoufand inhabitants, a fuperigr population to that of Quebec. Shelburn,
* See Kalin, ii. 049, + See Lahontan, ii, 24, t Morfe, 120,
Tt toward
646 * BRITISH POSSESSIONS
towards the S. W., once contained fix hundred families ; Guifbury about
250, The harbour of Annapolis is excellent ; but it is an inconfiderable
-hamlet. During a great part of the year the air is foggy and unhealthy ;
.and for four-or five months intenfely cold. There are many forefts ; and
the foil is generally thin and barren, though fertile on the banks of the
rivers, in grafs, hemp, and flax ; but supplies of grain are fent from Eng.
land. The Micmacs, an Indian tribe of about 300 fighting men, dwell
to the eaft of Halifax. Britain fends to thefe provinces linen and woollen
-cloths, and other articles to the aniount of about 30,6001. ; and receives
timber and fifh worth about 50,o00l. The chief fithery is that of cod on
the cape Sable-coait. Near cape Canco. there are remarkable cliffs of
white gypfum. About twenty-three leagues from that cape is the Ifle de
Sable, or of Sand, confifting wholly of that fubftance, mixed with white
tranfparent ttones, the hills being milk-white cones, and fome 146 feet |
above the fea. This flrange ifle has ponds of freth water; with junipers,
blueberries, and cranberries, and fome grafs and vetches, which ferve to
fupport a few horfes, cows, and hogs. ‘I'he bay of Fundi prefents an in.
' finite variety of picturefque and fublime {cenery.
ISLAND OF CAPE BRETON.
Tits ifland is attached to the province of Lower Canada, though di.
vided from Nova Scotia only by a ftrait of one mile in breadth. It is
about a hundred miles in length ; and according to the French authors
was difcovered at a very early period, about A. - 1§00, by the Normans
and Bretons, who navigated thefe feas ; and being {uppofed a part of the
continent was Cape Breton. They did not however take poffefiion
of it till 1713, when they ere&ted fort Dauphin ; the harbour being found
difficult, Louifburg was built in 1720, the fettlers being chiefly from
Europe, as the Acadians, or French of Nova Scotia, did not choofe to
leave that country. In 1745 Cape Breton was taken by fome troops from
New England : and has fince remained fubje& to the Britifh crown. The
climate is cold and: foggy, not only from t proximity of Newfoundland,
but from numerous lakes and foretfts. ‘The foil is mere mofs, and has been
found unfit for agriculture. The chief towns are Sidney and Louifburg;
the whole inhabitants of the ifle do not exceed one thoufand. The fyr
trade is iuconfiderable, but the fifhery very important, this ifland Peig
efteemed the chief feat; and the value of this trade, while in the Frenc
offeffion, was computed at a million ferling. There is a very exten.
ve bed of coal in this ifland, in a horizontal dire&tion, not more than
fix or eight feet below the furface; but it has been chiefly ufed a
ballaft: in one of the pits a fire was kindled by accident, and remains
The “if d of St. John is at no great diftance to the welt of Cape
Breton, being about fixty miles in length by thirty in breadth, and isat-
tached to the province of Nova Scotia. e French inhabitants, about
four thoufand,’ furrendered, with Cape Breton, in 1745. _ It is faid to
be fertile, with feveral ftreams. A lieutenant-governor refides at Char.
lotte town ; and the inhabitants of the ifland are computed at five thou.
fand.
NEWFOUNDLAND.
Tins ifland was difcovered by Sebaftian Cabot in 1497, who allo
founded the prior claim of England to the North American fhores as far
fouth
‘mer Iflands, lyir
fouth as Florid
was unintention
penetrated abo
rafles, with fom
foundland i
September.
up ina pickle
i sae cry hig
{uppofe on
ftream Feark the
300,000]. a yea
ifland of Newfo
to England 171
northern fhores
in the gulf of St
lon were ceded
joy their fitheric
the United Stat
aod the prelimin
the French.
The chief tov
and Bonavitta in
during the winte
fifheries and fett
fole confequence
governors, one :
Thefe dreary
the Weft Indixs
any other land,
any other divifio;
THE &
Tuey are fou
John cies
were ayain
which Geek Pm
. ‘aed with ftorm
on his being c
{cribes them in:
thele little iNane
of the fame nam
free-Rone, the i
the ifles perhaps
© The ifle of An
hour, but is covered
IN NORTH AMERICA. - 647
fouth as Florida. This difcovery, like that of Columbus and others
-was unintentional, the defign being merely to penetrate to the Eaft In-
dies. The stand of Newfoundland is about 320 miles in length and
breadth, the thape approaching to atriangle. It feems to be rather hilly
shan mountainous, with woods of birch, fmall pine, and fir, yet on the,
fouth-weft fide there are lofty head lands. The country has fcarcely been
penetrated above thirty miles; but there are numerous ponds and mo-
raffles, with fome dry barrens. The great fifhery on the banks of New-
foundland ins about the 1oth of May, and continues till the end of
September. The cod is either dried for the. Mediterranean, or barrelled
up ina pickle of falt, for the Englith market. Thefe banks and the .
ifland are environed with conttant fog, or {now and fleet; the former
{uppofed by fome to be occafioned by the fuperior warmth of the gulf
fiream from the Weft Indies. The fifhery is computed to yield about
00,0001. a year, from the cod fold in the Catholic countries. The
ifland of Newfoundland, after many difputes with the French, was ceded
to England 1713, the Freuach having permiffion to dry their nets on the
northern fhores; and in 1753 it was ftipulated that they might -fith
in the gulf of St. Lawreuce ; and the {mall ifles of St. Pierre and Miquee
lon were ceded to them. ‘The French, by the treaty 1783, were to en-
joy their fitheries on the northern and weftern coafts, the inhabitants of
the United States having the fame privileges as before their independence ;
aod the preliminaries of O&tober 3801 confirm the privileges granted to
the French. ;
The chief towns are St. John in the S.E., with Placentia in the fouth,
and Bonavifta in the eaft; but not above a thoufand families remain
during the winter. In the {pring a {mall {quadron is fent to protec the
fitheries and fettlements, the admiral being sifo governor of the ifland, its
fole confequence depending on the fifhery ; and there are two lieutenant-
governors, ore at St. John’s, another at Placentia *.
Thefe dreary thores are ftrongly contrafted by the Bermudas or Som..
‘.mer Iflands, lying almoft at an equal diftance between Nova Scotia and
the Weft Indies; but as they are nearer to the coaft of Carolina than to _
any other land, it. feems more proper to arrange them here than under
any other divifiog.
THE BERMUDAS, OR SOMMER ISLANDS.
Tuy are four in number, and were difcovered by the Spaniards under
John Bermudas, in 15273 but being afterwards neglected by them, they
were ayain difclofed by the thipwreck of Sir Gearge Sommers in 46cg :
which event feems to have induced Shakefpcar to defcribe them as ever
, wed with ftorms. Aaother poet, Waller, who refided there fome time,
on his being condemned for a plot againft the parliament in 1643, de-
{cribes them in yery different colours, as enjoying a perpetual {pring. In
1725 the benevolent and eccentric bifhop Berkeley propofed to ere& a
college in thofe ifands for the converfion of the favage Americans! Of
thele little iflands the chief is that called St, George, with a capital town
of the fame name, containing about five hundred houfes, built of a foft
free-Rone, the inhabitants being about three thoufand, and thofe of all
the ifles perhaps about nine thoufand. There is a governor, council, and
© The ifle of Antico, at the mouth of Se. Laweence, is full of rocks, and hes no hag-
boar, but is covered with wood; and excellent cod is found op the those,
general
Tr¢
iN ai a
648 BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN NORTH AMERICA,
eneral affembly ; the religion being that of the church of England.
he people are chiefly occupied in building light thips of their cedars, in
which they trade to North America and the Weft Indies. It would ap.
ear that thefe remote ifles were uninhabited when fettled by the Englith,
r. Morfe fays that the blacks are liere twice as numerous as the
whites ; and that a great part of their trade confifts in carrying falt to
Atmerica *.
NATIVE TRIBES
AND
-UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.
gS te arrangement of this divifion fhall briefly purfue the order of
the difcoveries from the eaft towards the welt. On this plan Green. '
land fhall be followed by Labrador, and the territory belonging to the
Hudfon’s Bay Company. Some account may then be given of the cen.
tral parts and tribes; which fhall be followed by the difcoveries of the
weftern coaft and iflands by the Ruffians, Cook, Vancouver, La Perouie,
and other navigators, and by the late enterprizing traveller Mackenzie.
GREENLAND.
HE difco of this extenfive region, which, whether continental or
infer ey ya continue to be re rarded as belonging to North Ame.
rica, has been already mentioned as having heen effected by the people of
Iceland in the tenth century; the diftance, according to the beft maps,
being about eight degrees of longitude in lat. 66°, or nearly 200 g. miles;
but {Ume maps reduce it to five degrees, or not more than 130 g miles,
The intercourfe between this colony and Denmark was maintained till the
beginning of the fifteenth century, the laft of feventeen bithops being
named in 1406: and in that century, by the gradual increafe of the ardtic
ice, the colony appears to have been completely imprifoned by the frozen
ocean ; while on the welt a range of impailable mountains and plains, vo-
vered with perpetual ice, precluded all accefs. The ancient fettlement
contained feveral churches and monafteries, the names and pofitions of
which may be traced in the map by Torfaeus ; from which it would feem
that the colony extended over about 200 miles in the S.E, extremity.
On the weft fome ruins of churches have alfo been difcovered. In more
recent times the weftern coaft was chiefly explored by Davis, and other
Englith navigators; but there was no attempt to fettle any colony. A
ious Norwegian clergyman, named Egede, having peels read the
Fook of Torfaeus published in 1715, was deeply impreffed by the melan-
@ From the chart by Lempriere, 1797, it appears that the largeft ifland called Ber-
scvlde refemblee a hook, the ante be ‘fronting the north. ‘The length is about 35 g,
miles, the breadth feldom two. The other ifles are St. G "s, St. David's, and
Somerfet, with feveral ifets, and numerous rocks, ‘Ihcy are alfo irequented by whale-
fithers, ’
choly
choly fituation o
proceeded to the
the gofpel to th
lowed by feveral
tlements about t
as far as 76°; b
S.W., though a
north as 73°.
Bay: but fay
which divides it
This dreary ca
in the fouthern
There are rein-de
and polar bears.
feals frequent the
are tolerably nu
{pecies.
The fhort fum
diverfify the gloo
cracks in the froz¢
fmall eyes, and fl
Samoieds : it is fi
number having be
which one man p
have fometimes be
tains are on the
Stag’s Horn are
The rocks are ge
nite, with fome fa
called cryolite, ha
of fngiitay utilit
for lamps and culir
The winter is ver
the froft. Above
is not four hours |
Tuis large exte
who made the firtt
favages, and on tl
to the fouth, and
were here only a fe
tlements, particula
indebted for the dif
brador ftone. Itis:!
lakes, where its b
wright, who refide
try, has publithed
curious picture of j
parts have never be
° Mr, Pennant, A. y
fa os Ditho Bay, give :
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.
649
choly fituation of this colony, if it fhould be found to exift; and in 1721
proceeded to the weftern fhore, where he continued till 1735, preachin
the gofpel to the natives, his benevolent example having been fince fol-
lowed by feveral miffionaries. The fe& called Moravians began their fet-
tlements about thirty years after. It is faid that the country is inhabited
as far as 76°; but t
Danifh and Moravian fettlements are chiefly in the
S.W., though at one time there appear to have been a factor
north as 73°. The natives have no conception of what we call B
as far
affin’s
Bay: but fay that in the north of their country there is a narrow ftrait
which divides it from the continent. of America *.
This dreary country may be faid to confift of rocks, ice and fnow ; but
in the fouthern parts there are fome {mall junipers, willows, and birch.
There are rein-deer, and fome dogs refembling wolves, with arctic foxes,
and polar bears.
feals frequent the fhores.
Hares are common; and the walrus, and five kinds of
The birds, particularly fea and water fowl,
are tolerably numerous; as are the fifh; ard the infects exceed ninety
{pecies.
The fhort fummes is very warm, but foggy ; and the northern lights
diverfify the gloom of winter. What is called the froft {moke burfts fein
cracks in the frozen ocean. The natives are fhort, with long black hair,
{mall eyes, and flat faces, being a branch of the Ifkimos, or American —
Samoieds : it is fuppofed that they do not now exceed ten thoufand, the
number having been greatly reduced by the {mall pox.
Their canoes, in
which one man proceeds to kill feals, are of a-fingular conftru€tion, and
have fometimes been wafted as far as the Orkneys. The higheft moun-
tains are on the weit fide; and the three pinnacles of what js called the
Stag’s Horn are vifible from fea at the diltance of forty or
ty leagues.
The rocks are generally rather vertical or little inclined, confilting of gra~
nite, with fome fand {tone and lapis ollaris.
called cr
of fngal
A new mineral fubftance,
olite, has been rece: tly found in Greenland. The lapis ollaris is
ar utility in Greenland, and the north of America, being ufed
for lamps and pag utenfils, The foil confifts of unfertile clay or fand.
The winter is very fe
vere ; and the rocks often bur{t by the intenfity of
the froft, Above 66° the fun does not fet in the longett days, and at 64°
isnot four hours beneath the horizon.
Tuis lar
who made the firft difcover
favages, and on the coafts
to the fouth, and even the latter feem
were here only a few factories, till the
LABRADOR,
Tiki
In the inland
extent of coaft was fo named by the Portuguefe navigator
arts there were American
mos $ but the former have moftly retired
gradually to withdraw. There.
oravian clergy formed little fet-
tlements, particularly at Nain, about 1764. To thefe miffionaries we aré
indebted for the difcovery of that ny rh irridefgent felfpar, called the La-
brador ftone. It is faid to have been
difcovered in failing through fomé
lakes, where its bright hues were refleGted from the water.’ Mr. Cart:
wright, who refided at intervals nearly fixteen
try, has publifhed a minute and prolix journa
yous in this defolate coun.
» which. however gives @
curious picture of its ftate and appearances along the coaft, for the inland
parts have never been explored. The inhabitants feem to be Ifkimos,
* Mr. Pennant, A. Z. cexcii. obferves that the Yarmouth whale fitters
fat as Ditko Bay, give no intelligence concerning Batlin's Bay.
» who proceed as
and
650 NATIVE TRIBES, AND
and their manners are very filthy. Tie who wifhes to ftudy the manners
of bears may here find ample fatisfaétion. At acataraét, furrounded with
alders, {pruces, firs, larches, birch, anid afpin, many falmon afcend, and the
bears aflemble in numbers to catch their favourite prey. Some dive after
the fifh, and do not appear again till at the diftance of feventy or eighty
ards, Others feem to be loungers, who only come to fee what is going
lcvieidi, and to enjoy the promenade and the fpedtacle. Our author
counted thirty-two white bears, and three black ones*. Rein deer alfo
abound, and their venifon is excellent. So far as difcovered, Labrador is
enerally hilly, and even mountainous. The eaftern coaft exhibits a moft
Barat and iron-bound appearance, the rocky mountains rifing fuddenly
from the fea, with {pots of black peat earth, producing ftunted plants,
Rivers, brooks, lakes, pools, and ponds are abundant, rich in fith,
and frequented by innumerable birds. The eaftern coaft alfo prefents
shoudands of iflands, covered with flocks of fea-fowl, pahankeity eider
ducks; and in the larger ifles there are deer, foxes, and hares, The
fifth are falmon, trout, pike, barbel, eels, and others. Inland the air is
milder; there are many trees, and fome fymptoms of fertility, The
lante are wild celery, {curvy-grafs, forrel and Indian fallad, There are
five appearances of iron ; and the Ifkimos now collect the Labrador {par
on the fhores of the fea and lakes, for the rocks have not been difcovered,
Perhaps this {par was the fhining ftone brought from Labrador by one
of our early navigators, as a {pecimen of gold ore. The birds are com.
mon to arctic regions, and the animals are moftly of the fur-bearing kind,
The natives are mountaineers and [fkimos; the former refembling gypfies,
with fomewhat of French features from a mixture of Canadian blood,
‘They chiefly live on rein deer, and alfo kill foxes, martins, and beavers,
They live in wigwams, a kind of tents covered with deer (kin and birch
bark; and are a fort of Roman Catholics, being anxious to vifit the priefts
at Quebec. ‘The Ifkimos are the fame people with the Grcenlanders,
They ufe fledges drawn by dogs, as in Alia.
HUDSON’S BAY,
Tue inland fea commonly called Hudfon’s Bay was explored in 1610;
and a charter for Plenting and improving the country, apd carrying on
trade, was granted to a company in 1670. The Hudfon’s Bay Company
has fince retained a claim to mofk extenfive tegritories, on the welt, fouth,
and eaft, of that inland fea, fuppofed to-extend from a to 115°; and,
allowing the degree only thirty miles, the length will be 1350 G. miles,
.and the medial breadth about 350. The vail extent of ice and {now is
however of little confequence confidered in itfelf 5 and it is not underflood
that the company gain great wealth.
The regions around Hudfon’s Bay, and that of Labrador, have, bya
miferable compliment to the parent country, been fometimes called New
Britain, a name not admitted in, French or Englith maps. The parts on
the weft of Hudfon's Bay have alfo been d New North and South
Wales; while that on the enft ig Ayled Eaft Main. Inthe fouth, James's
Bay ftretches i and about zoe by. about 150 in breadth ; and the
moft valuable nts are in that vicinity, as Albany fort, Moofe fort,
and Eaft Main “4 and on the confines of Upper
-. Masthes to the fou
Canada, are Brontrich boufey Erederick Koule, end fome others, wk
© Cartwright, by “
perhaps,
10)
haps, belong ¢
Boule is at the a
of Winnipic. Ye
north is Churchill
tion*, To the
farther than Hud
Company has
rivers are the Nell
courfe of the latte
and depth. In th
are the moft confi
fhoals, Near tha
but the barbarous
nor is it likely tl
civil hiftory. Th
but at intervals th
bigh iflands, the
and in what is
charts admit a ver
entirely reject.
Even in lat. 59°
js eight feet thick,
rible noife, equal
to an amazing di
and the fun rifes a:
borealis diffufes a
moons ana the fts
are far from numer
fuccefs, There a
fpond with thofe o
Iikimoss but ther
vifited by feveral ¢
Tit the journe
pane in 1771, an
ackenzie in 178
parts of North Az
able accuracy,’ the
clofes with the La
runs to the N., wi
“ difcovered by a f
far to the S. of th
that the fources a
After a few other
the country farthe
the Hills, and the
other important fas
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES. 652
perhaps, belong to the North Weft Company. In the north, Severn
houfe is at the mouth of a large river, which feems to flow from the lake
of Winnipic. York fort ftands on Nelfon river; and ftill farther to the
north ‘is Churchill fort, which feems the fartheft {:ttlement in that direc.
tion*. To the weft the Hudfon’s Bay company had extended little
farther than Hudfon's houfe: while the fuperior fpirit of the North-weft
Company has nearly approached the Pacific+. The moft important
rivers are the Nelfon and Safkafhawin, and the Severn; the comparative
courfe of the latter fcarcely exceeding 400 B. miles, but of great breadth
and depth. In the fouth the Albany, Moofe, Abitib, and Harricana,
are the moft confiderable ; but all the rivers are impeded with falls and
fhoals, Near that fingular inlet called Chefterfield there are many lakes,
but the barbarous names would neither edify nor entertain the reader ;
nor is it likely that they fhould ever become memorable in natura! or.
civil hiftory, The fea of Hudfon commonly prefents bold rocky fhores ;
but at intervals there are marfhes and large beaches. There are feveraj
high iflands, the largeft of which in the north has been little explored ;
and ia what is Baffin’s Bay (if fuch a fea exift), fome maps and
charts admit a very large central ifland galled James Ifland, which others
entirely reject.
Even in lat. 57° the winters are extremely fevere ; the ice on the rivers
js eight feet thick, and prepay congue The rocks burft with a hor-
ible noife, equal to that of heavy artillery, and the fplinters are thrown
to an amazing diftance¢. Mock-funs and halos are not unftequent ;
and the fun rifes and fets with a large cone of yellowith light. ‘The aurora
borealis diffufes a wariegated {plendour, which equals that of the full
moons ana the ftars fparkle with fiery rednefs, e fith in Hudfon fea
vare far from numerous; and the whale fifhery has been attempted without
fuccefs, There are few thell-fith ; and the quadrupeds birds corre.
fpond with thofe of Labrador and Canada. northern indigenes are
Iikimoss but there are other favages in the fouth: and the ies are
yifited by feveral tribes,
CENTRAL PARTS.
Tit. the journey of Mr. Hearne, an officer of the Hudfon's Bay Com-
pany in r77t, and the more difficult and laborious enterprizes of Mr.
ackenzie in 1789 and +793 3 little was known concerning the interior
parts of North America. [n 1746 D'Anville lays down, with confider. .
able accuracy,’ the fea of Canada, or the three great conjunét lakes. He
clofes with the Lake of the Woods; and a river (now called Winnipic)
runs to the N., while from the fame lake a large river proceeds to the W.,
« difcovered by a favage called Qchagac,"’ but which hows not exilt, Not
far to the S. of the Lake of the Weods he places the Mifliffippi, but fays
that the fources are unknown; they are now marked on that very {pot.
After a few other pofitions in that vicinity, he declares his ignorance of
the country farther to the weit, ‘Thus the great lakes of Winnipic, of
the Hills, and the Stave lake, with the immenie ranges of mountains, and
other important features, were unknown to this able geographer, who was
+ fry bande ti By Cpe pat Wile
8 Ole
low the ridge hy fousce to the avers Bo IN. and yee Gras Lake Acnipce,
| ; to » limit,
mafler
652 NATIVE TRIBES, AND
matter of all the knowledge of his time. The lake of Winnipic appearg
~~to have been difclofed to European notice about 1760, by furriers from
Canada; and et was faid of an imaginary large river called the Bour
bon ; which may however have been the Safkafhawin.
Mr. Hearne performed his journeys in the years 1769—1772; but his
book did not appear till 1795. He proceeded from Fort Prince of Wales,
or Churchill, and explored a group of lakes, called Doobant and other
names, near Chefterfield inlet ; and, farther to the welt, a lake of great
extent, which he calls Athapufcow, the centre being in long. 125°, lat,
62°; evidently the Slave lake of Mr. Mackenzie, in the fame latitude,
but long. 115". The junétion of the Copper Mine river with the Arétic
ocean was the moft curious difcovery of Mr. Hearne, whofe journeys
feemed fufficiently to demonftrate that no north-weft paffage was to be
expected. Mr. Hearne’s adventures on his new route are amufin and
interefting. He met with many herds of mufk cattle, a curious fpecies
deicribed and engraved by Mr. Pennant in his Arétic Zoology. On
the 14th of July 1771, he arrived at the Copper river, and on the 1 7th he
was within fight of the fea. *¢ I therefore fet inftantly about eeeenany
my furvey, and purfued it to the mouth of the river ; which I fornd al
the way fo full of fhoals and falls, that it was not navigable even for a
boat, and that it emptied itfelf into the fea over a rid € oF bar. The tide
was then out ; but I judged from the marks which faw on the edge of
the ice, that it flowed about twelve or fourteen feet, which will only reach
a little way within the river's mouth, The tide being out, the water inthe
river was perfectly. frefh ; ‘but I am certain of its being the fea, or fome
branch of it, by.the quantity of whalehone and feal-fins which the Ifkimos
had at their tents, and aifo by the number of fe Is which I faw on the
ice. At the mouth of the river the fea is full 6 iNlands and fhoals, as
far as I could fee with the affiftance of a good pocket telefcope. The
ice was not then broke up, but was melted away for about three quarters
of a mile from the main fhore, and toa little diftance round the iflands and
fhoals*.”? He found the Ifkimos here of a dirty copper’ éolour, and ra-
ther fhorter in ftature than thofe to the fouth. The kettles are made-of
lapis ollaris, of a mixed brown and white; and.their hatchets and knives
are of copper. The dogs have fharp ere¢t ears, pointed nofes, and bufhy
tails, being a fine breed of that fot. Many kinds of fea-fowl were ob,
erved ; and in the ponds and marthes, fwans, geefe, curlews, and plovers,
te ‘quadrupeds are mufk cattle, reindeer. bears, wolves, wolvéreens,
foxes, alpine hares, fquirrels, ermines, sate Mr: Hearne eet
vifited one of the copper mines, about thirty miles S$. E. from the mouth
of the river, being merely a hill which feems to have been rent b an earth,
quake, or perhaps by fubterranean water. The copper is found in lumps,
and is beaten out by the help of fire and two ftones. “Upon his return,
Mr. Hearne paffed farther to the weft ; and on the 24th of December
‘1771, he arrived at the north fide of the great lake of Athapufcow. This
lake is very full of wooded ai and ‘according to the natives is 120
leagues in length, from catt to x. eft,and 20 wide. | Itis pored yith great
quantities of Bikes brats Renclie, PASTA two other forts : Ai ft e
by the natives aapaneg and methy, The, Ree. ore on its : cot
fufed rocks ané hills, but the fouthern 16 level and beautiful ; and there
are many wild catgle and magle 8 the former, particularly the bulls,
iy ee, bas x: " a hu Bh gelt : :
* Pennant, Ai Zt 162, “Whfmnét tafe the water? Pt might have beeit's large frethwater
lake. Gat are common in the i of Baikal ; and che-whalebone may ate procured fu
barter. The fuppofed tide is not unknown in high winds upon the fouthern lakes: ** ;
eee ** : : ts - being
wee
U
being larger thant
rived at)the great
breadth, being evi
then paffed eafws
Fort: Prince of W
_ Mr. Mackenzie
1789 he embarkec
of the Hills, and p
he entered a river
tic ocean. The §
received its name |
extreme ferocity.
of June, and the «
hanks were coverec
called after his n:
above three hundri
mained all night cc
to have reached th
obferved feveral w]
other favages befid
there is another lat
which alfo joins th
ferved petroleum, :
tember 1780, our :
hundred and two d:
is no northern com:
cept at fo high a la
Equally importa
for, though inland,
rivers, by means of
on the roth O&tob
ina S. W. direétio
Rocky Mountains,
tranfporting their ¢
tiver on the other
Columbia, or the G
were before totally
he returned again
by land; and react
Arrowfmith’s map
tiful fcenzry was of
af poplars, and enk
buffaloes on the plz
the country refemb.
bear was alfo feen,
and the cold: was of
level than that of
Among the birds ¢
lumming-birds.
remarked, Where
wide. Towards t
of North America ;.
Their eyes are not
*M
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES. 653
being larger than.the Pogih black.cattle. Proceeding fouthward, he ars
Ber ,at;the great. Athapufcow, river, which he found about two miles in
breadth, being evidently the Slave river of Mr, Mackenzie. Our traveller
then paffed eafkward. without. any, remarkable difcovery, and arrived at
Fort Prince of Wales goth June 1772.
_ .Mr. Mackenzie's journeys were of yet more confequence*. In June
1789 he embarked in a canoe at fort Chepiwian, on the fouth of the Lake
of. ibs Hills, and proceeded along the Slave river to the Slave lake, whence
he entered a river now called after his own name, till he reached the Arc-
tic ocean. The Slave river he defcribes as very confiderable, and fays it
received its name from an Indian tribe, called Slaves merely from their
extreme ferocity. The Slave lake he found covered with ice in the month
of June, and the chief fifh were carp, white fifh, trout, and pike. The
hanks were covered with {pruce, pine, white birch, and poplars. The river
called after his name is fometimes fifty fathoms in depth, though not
abave three hundred yards in breadth. On the 11th of July the fun re-
mained all night confiderably above the horizon ; and foon after he feems
to have reached the fea, in which, near the wide eftuary of the river, he
obferved feveral whales. Though fo far to the north, there feems to be
other favages befides:Ifkimos ; and it would appear from their report that
there is another large river on the weftern fide of the Rocky Mountains,
which alfo joins the Ar&ic ocean. On his return Mr. Mackenzie ob-
ferved petroleum, and a large bed of coal on fire ; and on the 12th Sep-—
tember 1789, our author finifhed his firfi voyage, which had occupied one
hundred and two days. A complete confirmation thence arifes that there
is no northern. communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific ; ex~
cept at fo high a latitude that it muft be impeded by perpetual ice.
Equally important and interefting was Mr. Mackenzie’s fecond voyagey
for, though inland, the term is proper, as both were conducted on large
rivers, by means of canoes. Our enterprifing traveller left fort Chepiwian
on the roth October 179% and proceeded up the Peace river, or Unjigay
ina S. W. direction, till he reached a high land beyond the Stoney or
Rocky Mountains, the height of which he computes at 817 yards. After
tranfporting their canoe with fome difficulty, they embarked on.a fmalf
river on the other fide, which foon brought them into the river Oregany
Columbia, or the Great River of the Welt, the i and courfe oi which
were before totally mifunderftood. After proceeding a confiderable way
he returned againft the ftream, and then travelled to the Pacific Ocean
by land; and reached one of the numerous inlets lat. 52° 20/, by Mr.
Arrow{mith’s map of the expedition. On the weft of the Unjiga, beau-
tiful fcenzry was obferved, interfperfed with hill and lawn, with groves
af poplars, and enlivened with vaft herds of e}ks on the-uplands, and of:
buffaloes on the plains, The laft fo much abound, that in fome places.
the country refembles a ftall-yard. That fierce {pecies called the grizzly
bear was alfo feen, The Unjiga is fometimes from 4 to 800 yards wide ¢
and the cold: was often extreme, rather from the height of the general
level than that of the mountains, which does not exceed r1g00 feet.’
Among the birds obferved were blue jays, yellow birds, and beautiful:
panei fae Beavers are common, and tracks of moofe deer were
remarked, Where they reached: the Oregan, it was about 200 yards
wide. . Towards the Pacifit the natives are fairer than in the other parts
of North America ;-and one man was at leaft fix feet four inches in height.
Their eyes are not dark, like thofe of the other Indians, but grey, with
* Mackenzie's Voyages, London, 1601, 4to. p. 64. ;
a tinge
654 NATIVE TRIBES, AND
a tinge of red. The men wear onlya robe made of the bark of the cedar
tree, rendered as fine as hemp, fometimes with borders of red and yellow
threads ; and the women add a fhort apron. Some of their canoes ate
forty-five feet in length, the gun- being inlaid with the teeth of
athe fea otter, not with human teeth as Captain Ceo fuppofed. In
bln hig 1793, he returned to fort Chepiwian, after ux: abience of eleven
months.
Thefe va having confiderably improved the geography of North
America, fr weathovght proper to fasrate them tone length. It i
to be regretted however, that fome obfcurity arifes from the want of 9
diftin® nomenclature, and the'equivocal ufe or abufe of fome of the ap.
pellations. From thefe and other difcoveries communicated by officers of
the Hudfon's Bay Company, the geography of North America begins |
to open with more clearnefs, as may be judged from Mr. Arrowfmith’s
laft map 1802, The large northern lakes are now laid down with fupe.
rior accuracy. The great river Unjiga, after penetrating the weftern
range of mountains, flows N. E. towards the Lake of the Frills, whence
it receives a fhort but large ftream ;_and being afterwards abfurdly enough
ftyled the Slave river, it bends N. W. to the great Slave be whence it
iflues by the name of Mackenzie’s river. Such at leaft is Mr. Macken.
zie’s idea * ; and, if accepted, the name of Unjiga fhould be retained to its
egrefs into the Arctic Ocean, after‘a comparative courfe of about 1700
Britith miles.
Next in confequence is the Safkathawin, rifing on the eaftern fide of the
great range, and paffing E. to the great lake of Wimnipic, when i€ again
iffues:under the name of Nelfon river, and falls into Hudfon's Bay, after
a comparative courfe-ef more than 1000 B. miles. _
A third great river, now tolerably afcertained, is the Oregan, or Colum.
bia, alfo called by the natives Tacoutehe Teffe, whofe courfe is now
defcribed as being to the S. inftead of the W., and about 700 B. miles
in length. There are doubtlefs other important rivers towarde the weit ;
and a confiderable one, as before mentioned, feems to join the Ar&ic —
Ocean.
The genuine fources of the Miffouri, erroneoufly by the favages called
the Milfsippi, from the leaft important ftream, feem alfo to be clearly
evidenced, from a journey of Mr. Fidler in the fervice of the Hudfon’s
Bay Company ; a difcovery which, as already explained, adds greatly to
the length of that grand and interefting river. The real dire&tion and
uniform extent of the great weftern range of mountains feem alfo to be
clearly delineated.
Thefe obfervations were demanded by the prefent progreffive ftate of
the geography of North America. Ina more immediate view of the cen
tral parts of this divifion of the new continent, it muft net be forgotten,
’ that they are the feats of many native and unconquered tribes, whofe
manners have been To frequently defcribed by a hoft of travellers, that little
needs be faid in a work of this limited nature. Their modes of hunting
and warfare, their extreme cruelty towards their prifoners, the fingula-
rities of fcalping, and the ufe of the calumet, are fufficiently known.
A more difficult topic would be an enumeration of the various tribes ; and
a claflification according to their languages.
By a ftrange abufe of terms we {peak familiarly of the favage nations
of North America, while few of thefe pretended nations can afpire to
the name of a tribe, and the term clan, or even family, would be more ap-
# P, 216, 967,
propriated,
UN
propriated. Thee
of four hundred. ba:
they could be claffe:
moit noted tribes m
writers are the Iro
Onondagas, Cayug:
deracy Of offence a:
the river fo. called, |
tended towards the.
America was that |
whofe worfhip of th
Pratz, Charlevoix, a
- be proper to defcrib
the Central tribe, o
cific. The Algonk
beginning at the gul
3000 miles, The ]
tions, was of {mallc
to the weit was the
Kniftineaux corrupt
ginally feated on t
tr. Mackenzie, : th
the Algonkins, or j
wians, or Chepawas
occupy the whole |
that of the Ifkimo:
their own traditions
on the contrary; cc
but fuch interchang
The tribes near the
and their progrefs
The language of the
has not been fufficie
faid to be various, z
more fkilful examin:
Tue Roflians m;
weftern fhores of A
tinent they affign dif
moft recent maps
Aleutian Ifles, Th
the American prom
while the neareft /
term ing’s and ¢
Aleutian is reftri&e
that we are indebts
which have been ‘tr:
fervations of the R
® Colden, p. 2,
3 Charlevoix, i, 289,
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES. 655
ptopriated. The enumeration of thefe clans would be tedious ; anda lift
of bur hundred barbarous names would little intereft the reader, except
could be claffed- according to languages. But a few remarks on the
molt noted tribes mutt not be omitted. ‘The five nations of the Englith
writers are the Iroquois of the French, being the Mohawks, Oneidas,
Onondagas, Cayugas, and Sennekas ; five clans joined in an old confe-
deracy Of offence and defence*, ‘The Mohawks were on the fouth of
the river fo. called, in the province of New York; while the others ex-
tended towards the lake Ontario. Hiurons were on the eaft of the
lake of that'name, But, after the Mexicans, the chief ‘tribe in North
America was that of the Natchez, near the mouth of the Miffiffippi,
whofe worthip of the fun, and other peculiarities, have been illuftrated by
Pratz, Charlevoix, and other writers+. Ina work of more extent it might
. be proper to defcribe the manners of this people, of the Five Nations, of
the Central tribe, of the Ifkimos, and oF the Weitern races on thie Pa
cific. The Algonkin was the moft celebrated of the native languages,
beginning at the gulf of St. Lawrence, and including a circuit of about
3ooo miles, ‘Che Huron language, which was alfo that of the Five Na-
tions, was of {mallcr extent, on the weft of the Algonkin. Yet farther
to the weit was the language of the Sioux, which was alfo that of the
Kaiftineaux corruptly called Chriflinaux, but properly Killiftinons, ori-
inally feated on the north of Lake Superior$. But, according to
tr. Mackenzie, the Killiftinons were originally the fame people with
the Algonkins, or inhabitants of the Atlantic coaft ; while the Chepi-
wians, or Chepawas, and the numerous tribes: who fpeak their language,
occupy the whole {pace between the country of the Killiftinons, and
that of the Ifkimos, extending to the river Columbia, lat. 52. By
their own traditions they came trom Siberia; while intelligent travellers,
on the contrary, confider the Techuks as pres re from America :
but fuch interchanges of nations are not unfrequent in barbarous periods.
The tribes near the fogrce of the Miffouri are faid to be from the fouth,
and their progrefs N.W. probably retiring from the Spanifh power.
The language of the Natchez, and other nations in the Spanith territory, °
has not been fufficiently illuitrated ; and in the ifthmus the dialeéts are
faid to be vasious, and radically diftin&t, yet probably, on a nearer and
more fkilful examination, would be found to approach the Mexican,
WESTERN COAST.
Tue Ruflians may be regarded as the firlt difcoverers of the north.
weftern fhores of America. To the ifles between Afia and this con-
tinent they aflign different names, as Andrenovian, &c. but in their own
moft recent maps one general appellation is fubftituted, that of the
Aleutian Ifles, The fartheft Aleutian Ifles, which form a chain from
the American promontory of Alafka, are alfo called the Fox ifles;
while the neareft Aleutian Ifles of the Ruffians are thofe which we
term Bering’s and Copper. But in the beft Englifh maps'the name of
Aleutian is reftri€ted to the former; and it is to Englifh navigators
that we are indebted for the precife geography of thefe regions,
which have been ftrangely embroiled by the erroneous aftronomical ob-
fervations of the Ruffian captains.
* Colden, p. 1. + The Natchez age now extiné. Imlay, p. 425.
3 Charlevoix, i. 283, 276, 406. :
This
-
SS Sewanee ==
on shines intnaseasiiaiten iaiivenisetaatill la satiibainieiliiai tanta eli
656
This coaft, as already mentioned, feems to be chiefly alpine’ in
which refpeét, and in its numerous creeks and ifles it bears no {mall re.
femblance to Norway. The moft remarkable mountain feems to be
that called St. Elias by the Ruffian nevigators; and which, it is af.
firmed, has been vifible at fea at no lefs a diftance than about fixt
leagues. At Port des Frangois, lat. 58°, 37', La Peroufe ebferves that
the primitive mountains of granite or flate rife from the fea, yet the
fummits are covered with perpetual {now, and immenfe peer wind
through the cavities*, The lofty mountains, which La eroufe com.
putes at more thar ‘ten thoufand feet in height, terminate at Crofs
Sound; but the alpine ridges continue, though of {maller elevation,
and robably extend with few interruptions as far as California. Mr.
Mackenzie in lat. 53°, and Vancouver in a more fouthern latitude,
Found the fame mountainous appearances. What is called the coatt of
New Albion has been faintly explored ; and the Spanifh power is al:
ways an obftruction to fcience. B43} inhabitants of the more northern
sgions of this coaft appear to be Ifkimos.
M.. Mackenzie paffed, he found fome of the tribes of a low ftature,
with round faces, high cheek bones, black eyes and hair; the com.
plexion of a fwarthy yellow, | et
Manners, &c.] After this general furvey of the unconquered coun.
tries, fome account of the indigenal tribes fhall i > added :
The dances among the Indians are many and various, and to each of
them theré is a particular hoop. 1. The calumet dance. 2, The war
dance. 3. The chief’s dance. 4. The fet out dance. 5. The {ealp
dance. 6. The dead dance. 7. The prifoner’s dance. 8. The return
dance. g. The fpear dance. 10. The marriage dance. 11, The fa.
crifice dance. The Indians of Canada, in their war dances few hawk
bills, and {mall pieces of tin on them to make a jineling noife. The
favages are efteemed very active and nimble footed. They are alfo ad.
mirable fwimmers, and are not afraid of the ftrongeft currer:.
One part of their religious fuperitition confifts in cach of them having
his totam, or favourite fpirit, which he believes watches over him,
This totam they conceive affumes the fhape of fome particular beait,
which therefore they never kill, hunt, or eat. Dreams ate much at.
tended to by the Indians, and fometimes they make an artful ufe of the
veneration that is paid to them, to fecure fome obje& they may have in
The Kniftineaux, more properly Killiftons or Kiftinons, are a nation
of fome confequence frend over a vafl extent of country in the centre
of the northern part of America. Their language is the fame as that
of the people who inhabit the coaft of Britifh
with the exception of the Efquimeaux. They are of moderate ftature,
well proportioned, and of great ativity, They are naturally mild and
affable, as well as juft in their dealings, not only among themfelves, but
with ftrangers. The females of this nation ate in the fame fubordinate
ftate with thofe of all other favage tribes; but the feverity of their
labour is much ng 4 by their fituation on the banks of lakes and
i ere they employ canoes.
The ie of Nootka ate faid to be very cruel to their captives
taken in war, and commonly eat their children, They alfo throw the
dead bodies into the fea, in order, as they imagine, to attraé the —
as this ith forme a favourite repaft. In-the foutherly part of Nort
NATIVE TRIBES, AND
In the part through whieh:
merica on the Atlantic, |
America the M
parts 8 advance
een followed by
in that quartet,
favage ftate. ‘T
Alibama in Geo:
affability; the m
The Papagos
The Mofquin:
of mountains in |
merly converted |
aries and abjure
he Cocomari
and the Coloradc
the fame favages
agriculture, fowi
In New Mexic
ous tribes, who <
wild goats, while
their inftruments
The Ietans or
erratic, without |
the chace.
y = The principal |
large quantities o
of the fame name
River with the M
Tua indigeno
form a fingu arm
From the intenfel
pendage to the B
annual plants; and
the fnow, fhould b
countries § while t
of the climate unp
A regard to this ¢
tradi¢tions in the
the mere uninform
loos fhauld be a
almokt always deft
The forefts are
luzuriance of gro
The family of firs
tion ; and of thefe
pine, the Canadia
of Canada, (thuya
white cedar of the
importance are the
lime and elm, and |
ther wholly unkno
hhip timber of Can
The faflafras Jaure
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES. 657
America the Mexicans were the moft diftinguifhed nation; and had
erhaps advanced to fome degree of civilization; They feem to have
oh Bilowed by their neighbours of Tlafcala, while many other tribes
in that quartet, and as far, as the iftmus of Darien {till continue in the
favage ftate. The Alitamons were a confiderable tribe on the: river
Alibama in Georgia. They were diftinguifiied by their hofpitality and
affability; the men being robuft, and the women handfome.
The Papagos refide near Upper Pitheria. .
The Mofquinos or Mofquis dwelt in the centre of the mother chain
of mountains in the part bordering on New Mexico, They were for-
merly converted by the Francifcans, but they have killed all the miffion-
aries) and abjured the Chriftian faith.
The Cocomaricopis dwelt on the river Gila, the fpacé between which
and the Colorado is a vaft upland defert; and there is another tribe of
the fame favages on the well of the Colorado. They are addifted to
agriculture, fowring wheat, maize, &c.
In New Mexico there are thirty villages of Chriftian Indians of vari-
ous tribes, who are genetally induftrious, and’ clothed in the {kins of
wild goats, while the women wear mantlés of wool or cotton. All have
their inftruments of agriculture, and travel on horfeback,.
The Ietans or Cumanches ate a powerfil nation, which is entirely
erratic, without the leaft fpecies of cultivation, and fubfifting folely by
the chace.
The principal favage tribes on the Miffouri dre the Ofages, who raife
large quantities of corn, beans and pumkins; the Kanzas on the river
of the fame name; the Ottos at the confluence of the Flat or fhallow
River with the Miffouri; and the Panis, or Pawnees on the fame ftream.
Botany of Cariada and the North.
Tux indigenous plants of the regions north of the river St. Lawrence
form a fingular mixture of the floras of Lapland and the United States.
From the intenfely cold winters and hot fummers of thi’ extenfive ap-
pendage to the Britith empire, it might, indeed, be expected that the
annual plants) and fuch as dre capable of being fheltered in winter under
the fnow, fhould be, for the moft part, the fame as thofe of more fouthern
countries § while the trees and fhrubs, having to brave ‘the utmoft rigour
of the climate unproteéted, fhould be charaéteriftic of the Arétic regions.
A regard to this circumftance will enable us to explain the feeming con-
tradi¢tions in the agriculture of Canada; which are fcarcely crédible by
the mere uninformed Englith farmer, fuch as that gourds and water me-
lous fhould be a common field crop, while the hardieft winter corn is
almoft always deftroyed by the-cold.
The forefts are numerous, but the trees never attain that bulk and
luzuriance of growth which diftinguithes them in the fouthern ftates.
The family of firs and evergreens compofes perhaps the largeft propor-
tion ; and of thefe the principal are, the filver-leaved fir, the Weymouth
pine, the Canadian pine, the hemlock f{pruce fir, and the white cedat’
of Canada, (thuya occidentalis), which muft not be confounded with the
white cedar of the United States, (cuprefffs difticha). Next to thefe in
importance are the {ugar maple, the red maple; the birchy the American
lime and elm, and the iron wood. The numerous {pecies of oake are ei»
ther wholly unknown, or are contracted into defpicable fhrubs, all the
hip timber of Canada a brought from the New England provinees,.
The {aflafras laurel, and red mulberry, are alfo met with in the ifands of
u
V the
> = ~ 2 2
x £ a
oe RS ee —e <
- — sal Ty a
658 THE AMERICAN ISLANDS, OR
the St. Lawreneey but in a fimilar-Rate.of depreffion, the whole of the
fummer’s growth being often deftroyed by the next winter. The ath,
the yew, and mountain afh are foued in the northern tracts both of the
old and new world; but the light feftoons.of wild vine, with its pendent
.clufters, and the fragrant bloffoms of the Syrian afclepias, form a cha.
sacteriftic feature of the foreft {cenery of Canada.
The Canadian lily, fimilar to the Sarrane lily of Kamtf{chatka, and the
ginfeng, common to America and Tatary, point out a fimilarity between
the northern floras of Afia and America. :
The juniper, the cranberry, the bearberry, the black and req
currant, the rafpberry, and wild cherry, which have already been
mentioned as natives of Lapland and the whole north of Europe, are
found in great plenty inMnnilee fituations on the @ppofite fhores of the
Atlantic. ; Rae
_ Of the other Canadian plants little is known, and a meagre catalogue
of Linnzan names would little contribute either to the amufement or to
the inftru€tion of the general reader. One, however, the zizania aquatica,
deferves to be mentioned: this graminaceous vegetable is nearly allied
to the rice ; it grows abundantly in all the Mallow ftreams, and its mild
farinaceous feeds contribute effentially to the fupport of the wander.
ing tribes of Indians, and to the immenfe flights of {wans, geefe,
and other aquatic fowls, which refort hither for the purpofe of breeding,
Productive as it is, and habituated to the climate, mhabiting alfo fitu.
ations which refufe all other culture, it is furprifing that the Euro.
an fettlers have as yet taken no pains to improve a plant which feems
orien nature to become at fome future period the bread-corn of
the north.
ISLES OF COLON,
OR
WEST INDIES. »
HESE iflands, fo important to commerce, are Cuba, St. Domingo,
Jamaica, and Posto Rico, all of confiderable extent ; and followed
by the diftingnithed group called the Antilles, Caribbee, or Leeward
lands, but more properly by the French, Windward Mande, as being
towards 4 eaft, the point of the trade wind. ‘Io the fouth of this
is Trinidad, a recent Englith acquifition ; to Fg welt of which
is
firetch the Leeward [fands of the Spaniards. Inthe W. E..of this grand
affemblage ete the Bahanta or Lucayos Iflands, narrow aud barren {vps
of land, farnverly frequented by. pirates, til] fubjeAled to the r
of i but chiefly remarkable as having the fit difcovery of
Colon, e refirié <:) naturé Of this work will no€é admit of « pier
tion adequate to the importance of thefe ifiande? which is the lefs to
regretted, ae the fu is already familiar to moft readers, ‘I'he helt
geographical order to be that fuggefted by thvir n tural extent
importance, independent of the anid flectitig diltinAion o
ropean poffethion.
© Our meriners apply hoth terms to the Caribbee I(ande; the Windward ending with
Martiniev, dre Leemerdzeaching {som Dominica to Ponsa Aiko. Sidenede, |. 8: cues
Page 563.
jPortuee
rr os pe eg | |
Mion: —_
Gaadaiou
i sainks
' Dominic
o 7 | .
saya | |
al Berhpodo ») j
Af. i
| ad
u@
Bnanevess
New CUMAMA i
Gu rans '
1TRMA
foe Bast fee fomwah
7 ar) a | ow
WEST FLORIDA
Mobile :
{ Mantahne
df Pvvitence
CManee i : ~ ¢ ) y oF
—ael dail comm onet mame ‘tienen MANNII winscciiaan Manan
so Oa f | ee id ‘
From various Authorities.
Published ipl 0 100.6 iulell dMavioe Stand: kbongman & Rens Paternester I
or” 4
‘ speder ly, s
Watling s tt
/.
Aincervw:
Gasdalep
C.de la Vel
. WF,
CPO Vee SUNDA
Pp wih: |
MANACAYHO| on Rancan ona
Cvmara NY
\.
= y CR
a oN ® fe
ufhorities.
nd: Mhongman & Rear Paternaster How ,
Tus
dial brea
Bahama
beauty q
he foon
er St. D
which, w
tors. V
tion of ¢
or part «¢
Ocampo
under
exaggera
Otaheite;
atchieve
ule ef ur
ponderan|
creefes, ¢
and nine-|
Spanith c
extermina
equally v:
being the
The in
is the fert
flourifhing
tobacco is
of Ameri
Great Ant
Leeward
vento, or }
and was ta
furrenderes
amount,
E, and W.
leat harbor
pepper, me
copper, wh
and gold is
cattle and
There is a |
diftingt ma,
defeCtive, a
Havanna
perity may
threethouta
by the bifho
phy, and tr
built of ce
is one of th
veterans, ty
* Rob
WEST INDIES, | 659
CUBA.
Turs noble ifland is not lefs than 700 B. miles in length; but the me-
dial breadth does not exceed 70, On his-firft voyage, after exploring the
Bahama Ifles, Coloa difcovered Cuba *; but though delighted with the
beauty of the fcenery, and amazed at the luxuriant fertility of the foil,
he foon abandoned it to proceed to Hayti, afterwards called Hifpaniola,
or St. Domingo, where he expected to finda greater abundance of gold;
which, with gems and f{pices, formed the only objects of the early naviga-
tors. While Hifpaniola was feleted asa factory to fecure the acquili-
tion of gold, it was not certainly known whether Cuba was an ifland,
or part of the continent, till 15038, when it was circumaavigated by
Ocampo; and in 15rt it was conquered by three hundred Spaniards
under Velafquez +. The number of the inhabitants was no doubt
exaggerated, as even in our enlightened times happened with regard to
Otaheite, and other new difcoveries. The Spamards certainly did not
atchieve miracles in their American conquefts, nor was the awkward
ule ef unwieldy cannon and fire-arms, at that time, fo fatal and pre
ponderant a circumftance as may be imagined. The Malays, with their
creefes, defy firesarms. The natives were not only timid, but few :
and nine-tenths may be fafely fubtra&ted both from Spanith valour and
Spanith cruelty. ‘Thefe reflections have been excited by the charge of
extermination brought againft the Spaniards of Cuba; while the natives
equally vanifh around all European colonies, the real deftroying angele
being the {mall pox, and fpirituous liquors.
The induftry of the Spaniards is far from being proverbial; yet fuch
is the fertility of Cuba, that it may be regarded as a moft important and
fourifhing poffeffion, The quantity of fugar is confiderable ; and the
tobacco is efteemed of a more exquifite flavour than that of any other part
of America. This, with the other large iflands, were alfo called the
Greai Antilles, and they were alfo knowa by the name Sotavento, or the
Leeward Iflands, in contradiltin&tion to the exterior group called Barlo-
vento, or Windward Iflands. Havauna the capital, was built in 1519 ;
and was taken in 1669 by Morgan, a celebrated buccaneer, It again
furrendered to the Evelith in 1761, and tveafures were found of no {mall
amount. ‘This extenfive ifland is divided by a chain of mountains pafling
E.and W. The rivers are of fhort courfe, but there are feveral excel-
leat harbours. Among the produéts mutt alfo be reckoned ginger, long
pepper, maflic, cocoa, manioc, and aloes. ‘There are mines of excellent
copper, which fupply the other Spanifh colonies with domettic uteufils ;
and gold is not in slo in the rivers. The forefts abound with wild
cattle and {wine ; and among the trees are green ebony and mahogany,
There is a governor-general ; and eighteen jurifdiétions are governed by
diftingt magiftrates. The nagaral biftory of this large ifland is very”
defective, as is the cafe with all the Spanith poffeffions.
Havanna prefents the appearance of an European town, and its prof.
perity may be judged of from the number of cabriolets which exceed
threethoufand. Thecollege, orumiverfity of Havanna, was foundedint774,
by the bifhop Echavarria, with two proteffors of theology, one of philofo-
phy, and two of Latin, I'he arfenal is fuperb; and thips of war are
built of cedar, and other woods fupplied by the ifland. ‘The garrifon
is one of the chief in Spawith America, confifting of two regiments of
veterans, two of light infantry, oue fquadron cf dragoons, and othet
* Robertion’s America, i, 122. + Ib. 249.
Uu2 troops;
Se EES
en
tan me aoe
nn
a
660° THE AMERICAN ISLANDS, OR
troops; the total about ten thoufand. In addition to the well knowg
caltle of Moro, fort San Carlos was built in 1763, and San Diego in
1780. The theatre, however, has been gradually abandoned, and was.
ruined in 1792. bs
Havanna forms as it were an univerfal mart for all the rich produ of
New Spain, and the returns from the parent countty.
The people of Havanna are, like other Spaniards, fond of bull fights:
and, like the Mexicans, alfo infatuated with’cock fighting. The balls
form another favourite amufement, and no invitation is required, a gen.
teel drefs being fufficient. Some of the dances are native and graceful,
The age of the inhabitants generally extends to fixty or feventy
years ; and though fome exceed that period, their faculties are com.
monly annihilated. The manner of living is generally as objeCtionable
as in New Spain. In the'morning with chocolate, coffee, or milk, is
taken a favoury dith, called chuleta, or ribs of pork, which they have
frefh throughout the year, or fome ether animal food fried in lard: at
mid-day, the ufual dith is agiaco, a kind of fruit of fo hot a tafte, that
tears bathe the cheeks of the guefts. In the evening there is a regular
{upper of rice feafoned with tele and lard, boiled flefh, fallads, and other
difhes. At the two laft meals, the ufual defert is {weetmeats, or fugar
preficd from the cane, the confumpt of which is incredible,
SAINT. DOMINGO.
Turs Ifland, the fecond in the American archipelago, is now wholly
pofleffed, at leaft nominally, by the French; and is about 400 B,
miles in length by 100 in breadth. Under the name of Hifpaniola it
was the firft Spanith fettlement in the New World. The French colony
derived its origin from a party of buceaneers, moftly natives of Nor.
mandy, towards the middle of the feventeenth century ; and the weftetn
part was formally ceded to France by the peace of Ry{wick. So in.
duftrious and flourifhing was this French colony, that it was termed
the paradife of the Weft Indies: and according to Mr. Edwards*, in
1790, the population amounted to 30,000 whites, and about 480,000
negro flaves, the mulattoes, or free people of colour, being fuppofed
to be 24,000; while the average exports before the revolution ftood
thus :
Livres.
Clayed fugar, - : Ibs. 58,642,214 41,049,549
Mufcovado, . - Ibs. 86,549,829 34,619,931
Coffee, - - - Ibs. 71,663,187 125479,716
Cotton, . - - lbs. 6,698,858 7136635187
Indigo, - - - hhds. 951,607 8,564,463
Molaffes, ° . hhds. 23,061 2,757,320
An inferior fort of rum called taffia, hhds. 2,600 312,000
Raw hides, . ° No. 6,500 52,009
‘Tanned ditto, - . No. 7,;yO0O 118,500
The total value at the ports of fhipping in
‘livres of St. Domingo, was. - - 171,544,666
being equal to 4,765,129]. fterling money of Great Britain.
* Hittory of St. Domingo, 1797, 4to. p. 194, Reprinted in tha third volume of his
Wet Indies, 1901, ato
The
The natio
end not of
ing the righ
refentatives,
informed ther
have fuffered
country were
furd ftruggles
1793s three ¢
tered the cap
maflacre of tk
flavery by the
againit the En
colony having
and culture,
The centre ¢
called Cibao.
Jongeft ftretchi
ifland. Anot
Foux, while an
and ends at C2,
part of the i
northern and fo
The ehief riv
the Yuna on th.
gable above fou
There is a gr
climate unhealt
but moft of the
the rocks are cl
parts, according
of great beauty
and there are tv
ftance.
- The chains of
inhabitants are n
or winter. In t
November, is cal
in Auguft and er
and bring clouds
eeflive. The tro
deftru&jve to the
grocs. The bea
ground, and jis nc
Tris ifland wa
age, but was little
unfortunately con
by the lofs of his
by whofe induftry
Indian fettlements
heing about 170 ;
WEST INDIES. 661
The national aflembly of France, unkappily confiing of philofophers
and not of men of bufinefs, paffed fome contradi€tory decrees concera-
ing the rights of the mulattoes, or people of colour, to vote for re-
refentatives. The {malleft ray of political prudence might have
informed them that! the government of diftant colonies ought not to
have fuffered the leaft alteration, till years after that of the parent
country were eftablifhed on a folid and lafting bafis. After many ab-
furd ftruggles between the whites and mulattoes, on the 21ft June
17935 three thoufand negroe flaves, {upported by the mulattoes, en-
tered the capital city of Cape Francois, and perpetrated an uniyerfa]
maffacre of the white men, women and children. ‘The abolition of
flavery by the infatuated commiflioners, in order to defend the ifland
againit the Englith, has had the effeét that might have been forefeen, the
colony having been loft, at leait for a feafon, to European civilization
and culture,
The centre of the ifland is occupied by a group of high mountains
called Cibao. From this group there rife three great chains; the
Jongeft ftretching towards the eaft, and dividing that portion of the
iland. Another chain ftretches to the north-weft, ending at Cape
Foux, while another, of lefs elevation, runs nearly in the fame dire@ion,
and ends at Cape St, Mark. The number of mountaine in the weftern
part of the idand renders the communication difficult between the
northern and fouthern provinces.
The chief rivers are the Ozama on the fouth, the Yagua on the north,
the Yuna on the eaft, and the Artibon on the weft ; but none is navi-
gable above four leagues from its mouth,
There is a great number of efers or falt marfhes, which render the
climate unhealthy. The vegetable foil is in general of no great depth,
but moft of the hills admit cultivation. ‘Towards the north and weft
the rocks are chiefly calcareous, and formed of madrepores. In other
parts, according to Moreau, there are granites, porphyries, and jafpers
of great beauty. Some of the waters contain a portion of filohiae's
a there are two mineral {prings which abound with the fame fub-
ance.
. The chains of mountains praise fuch varieties of climate, that the
inhabitants are not agreed which feakons they thall denominate fummer
or winter. In the eaft and fouth the feafon of rains, from April to
November, is called winter; while in the north, that feafon commences
in Auguft and ends in April, during which the northern winds blow
and bring clouds and rain, In May, June, and July the heats are exe
ceffive. The tropical putrid fever, alfo called the yellow fever, was
deftru&tjve to the French i on the late expeditien againft the ne-
grocs. The beautiful town of Cape Francois has been burnt to the
ground, and is now a heap of ruins, et se
JAMAICA,
Tuts ifland was difcoyered by Colon, 1494, during his fecond vOyy
age, but was little explored till his fourth and laft voyage, when he was
unfortunately confined for many months on the north fide of this ifle,
by the lofs of his thips, In 1655 it fell into the hands of the Englith,
by whofe induftry it has become one of the moft flourifhing of the Weft
Indian fettlements, In fize it is the third ifland in this archipelago,
being about 170 B. miles in length, by 60 in breadth. It is divided
Uu3 intg
662 THE AMERICAN ISLANDS, OR
into three counties, Cornwall in the weft, Middlefex in the centre, and
Surry in the eaft. St. Jago or Spanifh Town is regarded as the capital ;
while King fton is the chief fea-port. The number of negroes is computed
at 250,0C9, and the whites are probably 20,000, the free negroes and mu-
lattoes 10,000. The chief exports are to Great Britain, Ireland, and North
America, in fugar, rum, coffee, indigo, ginger, and pimento, valued in 1784
at 2,000,000]. The intercourfe with Vowdurae, and the Mofquito fhore,
may now be regarded as abandoned ; but fome little trade is carried on with
Spanilhi America by {mall veffels, which elude the vigilance of the guarda
coftas. The imports were computed at a million anda half, and flaves from
Africa formed a contiderable article. There is @ poll tax, with duties
on negroes and rum, yielding more than 100,000l. annually ; and the
ordinary expences of government in 1788 were computed at 75,0001.
The legiflature confifts of the captain-general or governor ; a council of
twelve, nominated by the crown; and a houfe of affembly, containing
forty-three members, elefted by the freeholders *; the three chief
towns, St. Jago, Kingfton, and Port Royal, returning three members,
the other parifhes two. The principal towns are within a fhort diftance
of each other, Spanifh Town being inland; while Kingfton is on the
north fide, and Port Royal.on the weft, of a confiderable bay; the laf
being greatly reduced by earthquakes and other calamities, The cli-
mate, though tempered by the fea breezes, is extremely hot; and the
days and nights nearly of equal duration. A ridge of mountains,
from eaft to weft, divides the ifland into two parts; and the land{cape
often boafts of peculiar beauties. In the north the foil is generally a
chalky marl, producing a clofe and clean turf, like an Englifh lawn of
the brighteft verdure +. ‘Towards the interior are forefts, crowned with
the blue fummits of the central ridge. What is called the Blue Moun-
tain Peak rifes 7431 feet above the level of the fea; and the precipices
aie interfperfed with beautiful favannas, There are about one hundred
rivulets, of which the Black River, running to the fouth, is the moft
confiderable. Some fulphureous and chalybeate fprings likewife occur.
It is faid that the Spaniards: worked mines of copper, if not filver ;
and one of lead has been recently difcovered. The bread fruit tre<,
with other ufeful plants, has been introduced bv the exe:tions of Sir
Jofeph Banka, than which none can be more beneiicial, oz more worthy
of applaufe f.
PORTO RICO.
Tus ifle, which belongs to Spain, is about 120 B. miles in length,
by 40.in-treadth. Its fize and confequence are well known to the
poffeffors, being a fertile, beautiful, and: well watered country.. The
chief trade is in fugar, ginger, cotton, hides; with fome drugs, fruits,
and fweetmeats: and the northern part is faid to contain mines of gold
and filver, Porto Rico was difcovered by Colon in 1493 5 and was fub-
jugated by Ponce de Leon, the firft explorer of Florida, about 1509,
T Spanifh voyagers and authors, whofe imagination magnitied every
* Edwards, i. 214. ’
+ What is called the brick mould contains fuch a mixture of: clay.and fand as. might be
adapted to the kiln; but the name has no connexion with the colour, which is hazle,
Edwards, ii, 205. This is the beit foil for fugar canes riext to the athy loam of St, Chrifr
topher's; and is followed by the deep black mould of Barbadoes.
3 Sea Mr. Eswords’s Hiftory of the Weft Ipdics, ad edit, v. i, p. xxv,
feature
feature of the
while perhaps a
nut £0 20,000.
~
Tuts range e}
in the north; a
wards the eaft,
of Cape Verd.
cial advantage,
badoes, Antigua
Moutferrat, Ne
far the moft im
tants; while t
ilands are Marti
The Denes poffe
to the Virgin gr
Dutch St. Eulta
appear to be the
and Baffe 'ferre,
inlength, by 25
eovered by Colo
Guadaloupe and
eager in queft of
have been difcove
it was feized by t
of James Town, |
miles in length, ai
has profpered to
fugar, and 600 pt
and molt of the c
the middle of the
very early Britith
by the Englifh in
Guadaloupe abou
powers concernin
rative for the pref
remarkably contre
there are {mall ra
been many volcan
vat mafs of fulph
feveral volcanoes.
being fugar, rum
Under this heac
with the fhore of §
tothe Dutch, wh
on the continent,
Under this divi
ceded by Spain tc
in length, from ]
* In a hurticane, 1:
% 4926, and the dam
WEST INDIES. 663
feature of the New World, reported the native population at 600,000 ;
while perhaps a real enumeration might have reduced them to 60,000, if
not t0 20,000.
THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS.
Tuts range extends from Tobago, in the fouth, to the Virgin iflande
in the north ; and includes Barbadoes, which ftands rather detached toe
wards the eaft, being about thirty-five degrees from the African iflands
of Cape Verd. The Caribbee iflands are of noted fertility and commer.
cial advantage, the chief poffeffors being the Englifh and French. Bar-
badoes, Antigua, St. Chriftopher’s, St. Vincent, Dominica, Grenada, °
Moutferrat, Nevis, and the Virgin Iffes, are Britith; and Barbadoes is by
far the moft impoitant, as it is {uppofed to contain 17,000 white inhabi-
tants; while the others rarely exceed 2000. The French Caribbee
ilands are Martinique, Guadaloupe, St. Lucie, Tobago, and-fome iflets.
The Denes poffefs St. Croix, St. Thomas, and St. John, which belong
to the Virgin group 3 while the Swedes hold St rtholomew, and the
Dutch St. Eultatius. Ofthe whole group, Bs _.does and Guadaloupe
appear to be the moft important; and the laft, including Grand Terre
and Baffe 'f'erre, is the moft confiderable in fize, being about fixty B. miles
inlength, by 25 in breadth. The Carribbee iflands in general were dif-
eovered by Colon, on his fecond voyage, when he vilited Dominica,
Guadaloupe and Antigua; but they were negleéted by the Spuniards,
eager in queft of the gold of the larger iflands. Barbadoes is faid te
have been difcovered by the Poituguefe, who having made no fettlement;
it was feized by the Englifh in the reign of James 1; and the foundation
of James Town, was laid in 1624. Though the ifle be only about twenty
miles in length, and thirteen in breadth, yet this early Englifh fettlement
has profpered to a furprifing degree, exporting about 10,coo hhds. of
fugar, and 600 puncheons of rum, befides cotton, ginger, &c.* Grenada,
and moft of the others, were orginally fettled by the French, towards:
the middle of the feventeenth century. St. Chriftopher’s was however a
very early Britith fettlement. Antigua is alfo faid to have been planted:
by the Englifh in 1632; while the French began to fend colonies to
Guadaloupe about 1630. The fubfequent ftruggles between the two
powers concerning thefe'valuable iflands would form too complex a nar='
rative for the prefent defign. They are generally plain and fertile: being’
remarkably contra{ted with the barrennefs of the Bahama group. In fome
there are {mall ranges of hills: and in Guadaloupe there appear to have’
been many volcanoes, the noted Sonffricre being a kind of folfatata, or
vat mafs of fulphur, emitting continual fmoke. Dominica alfo contains
feveral volcanoes. The produéts and exports of all thefe-ifles, art: fimilar,
being fugar, rum, coffee, cacao, indigo, cotton, &c.
Under this head may alfo be arranged the {mall gt ee,
with the fhore of South America, of which Curazao and Buenayreé belong’
tothe Dutch, who import African flaves, whom they fellto the Spaniards‘
on the continent, !
Under this divifion may alfo be claffed the ifland of Trinidad, recently
ceded by Spain to Great Britain. This: ifland is about 60’ B: miles’
in length, from N. to S., while’ the‘ medial breadth miay’ be abotit 50:
* In a hurticane, 10th O&tober 1780, the blacks and whites who pétified were eomputed
a 4926, and the damage at 1,920,564l. 15s. fterling. Edwards, i, 967,
Uus Colon
-
664 THE AMERICAN ISLANDS, OR
Colon landed here in 1498 when he difcovered the mouth of the
Orinoco ; but the poffeffion was neglefed till 1535. The climate is faic
to be excellent, and remarkably free from hurricanes, which are dredtal
{courges of the other American ifles*. Heavy rains prevail from the
middle of May till the end of O&tober ; and there are fo many rivers, that
the drynefs of the other half of the year is little regretted. Sometimes
flight earthquakes are felt, but little dangerous. Inthe interior are four
groups of mountains, which, with fome other ridges towards the fhores,
are computed at a third part of the territory ; the other two-thirds are
faid to confilt of a moft Erile foil. The fouthern coaft is well adapted
to the culture of coffee ; and on the weft isa large harbour, reputed very
fecure in all feafons. Here are the Spanith fettlements, the largeft con.
‘taining only about eighty huts. The cocoa trees perifhed in 1727, by the
force, as is faid, of the northern winds; and any new plantations ought
of courfe to be proteéted on that quarter by thick fences of foreft trees,
The total population of the ifle, according to a late furvey, is 17,718,
of whom 10,009 are flaves, 7
THE BAHAMA, OR LUCA¥OS ISLANDS.
Test ifles, though very numerous, and fome of them of confiderable
fize, are little known. They are faid to have been totally deferted when
in 1762, a few Englithmen took poffeffion of the ifland which they
called Providence t+. But besasting a neft of pirates, a force was fent from
England to fubdue them ; and a {mall regular colony eftablifhed about
4720. The Englith in the Bahama iflands are computed at three or four
thoufand; half being fettled in Providence, where there is a fort called
Naffau, andafmall harbour, The few exports are cotton, dyeing woods
live turtle, and falt. The foil feems to be naturally barren; and the
narrow length of thefe ifles, much expofed to the heat and the winds,
accounts for their comparative infignificance in jhis grand commercial
archipelago,
The French fettlements of Guadaloupe and Martinique were of con-
fiderable importance, thefe iflands being of larger fize than any others
of the Carrjbees, Guadaloupe is of a remarkable form, being divided
into two parts by a narrow channel, only navigable by boats. The
well known products of thefe iflands are fugar, cotton, indigo, Binet:
and various fruits, Martinique is alfo celebrated for a diftillery of
liqueurs, The town ‘of St. Pierre is about two miles in length, and half
a mile in breadth, being handfomely built with ftone ; and fome of the
fhops are as brilliant as any in London or Paris,
Maartinsque.] After a refjdence of fome yeere in Martinique,
M. Thibgult de Chanvalon peblibes ee account of this ifland, chiefly
containing meteorological obfervations, afin led, however, with other
authentic information. He obferves, that there are, in appearance,
only two feafons in the Weft Indies; What is called the winter, pro-
perly the rainy feafon, extending from the middle of July to the middle
ofOGober, = ates hors Tach ,
The French iflands are in general confidered as divided into two
ionss the eaftern part, expofed to the trade winds, being called
Cabefterre ; while the weftern, or leeward, is termed Baffe-terre.
: e Reynal, iv. 165. t Ih. iv, 165.
’ hers
Phere are
the higheft be
bearing many
is of far infe
lantations,
ands in the
our author, ¢
are moft of t
they refound
yolcanic traé&t
greatly varieg
there are woo
and in mpft cl
Quarries o
are ufed. Li
had been difcd
had been obfe
The chief
eaftern part o
The inhabi
character of |
enerally tho
me time fran
Though the
is the largeft «
Hiftoire Geper:
this ifland, w
It is divided
arm of the fe
called La Gra
but more ge
defcribes a fin
diftance from
a ftrong odou
tain, and a hot
firangers,
Tue Wek ]
height of their
contain a propc
from pofleffin
refearch is not '
engagements o!
fwamps, and th
fertility,” that
adventurous nai
. on of th
of India‘ grow |
brethren Suc
twining for fup
years becoming
WEST INDIES. 6
Phere gre in Martinique only three mountains of canfiderable height,
the higheft being that called Pelge.in the weftern part of the ifland, and
bearing many marks of being an extiné& volcano. Vauclin, the next,
is of Far inferior, eleyation, and glmoft entirely covered with coffee
lantgtions, ‘The inferior chains branch out. in all direétions. The
ands in the neighbourhood of Mount Pelée feem, in the opinion of
our author, to confilt chiefly of pumice, either in lumps or powder, aa.
are moft of thofe on the north and weft, In riding over thele grounds,
they refound as if hollow, a circumftance which alfo occurs jn the wide
yolcanic traéts of the Andes, In the fouth of the ifland the foil ig
greatly variegated. ‘The pumice lands foon imbibe the rain ; but where
there are woods, the climate becomes unhealthy from the humidity ;
and in mpft climates the neighbourhood of trees is pernicious to health,
~ Quarries of f-ee-ftone are rare at Martinique, and blocks of lava
are ufed. Lime was made with the madrepores and fea fhells. No mineg
had been difcovered, but a ferruginous fand, often a valcanic produion,
had been obferved on the fhore near Mount Pelée.
The chief river feems to be that called the Galion, in the north.
eaftern part of the ifland. ‘
The inhabitants are whites, Caribs, and negroes, Our author's
character of the former approaches to that of our Weft Indians,
enerally thoughtlefs, lively, precipitate, and {elf-willed 3 but at the
oie time frank, brave, and generous.
Though the feat of the government be at Martinique, Guadalou
is the largeft and moft important of the French Catibbee iflands. Inthe
Hiftoire Generale des Voyages, Prevoft has given a minute account of
this ifland, which cannot, however, be Cee praifed: for its accuracy,
It is divided into two portions in a very fingular manner by a {mall
arm of the fea inoning N. and S,, the portion on the.N. E. being
called La Grande Terre, and the other on the &. W. the Bafé Terre,
but more generally Guadaloupe. On the welftern fhore, Labet
defcribes a fingylar phenomenan, the fea being fo hot, at a {mall
diftance from the fhore, as to boil eggs; and on moving the fand
a ftrong odour of fulphur is perceived. There is alfoa boiling foune
tain, and a hot marth, the laft of which is very deceitful and dangerous tq
ftrangers. .
Botany of the Weft Indice.
Tue Welt Indian iflands, from their trophical fituation, and the great
height of their mountains, command a large extent of temperature, and
contain a 2 paris variety of native vegetables, We are far however
from pofleffing a complete flora of thefe countries ; activity in {centific
refearch is not very congenial either with the manners, or the commercial
engagements of the inhabitants ; and the peftilential exhalationa from the
{wamps, and the pathlefs intricacies of the forefts, ** flrangled with wafte
fertility,’’ that on all fides gird the mountains, may well difpirit the moft
Bah pc gs , ou Fide Keswth Senrd
* Several of thofe giant fone of the foreft that were noticed in the bo
of India‘ grow wild in thefé iflands, and equal in Rateline 3 their pono
brethren. Such are the Indian fig or banyan tree, at firft a feeble ftem,
twining for fupport round fome neighbouring plant, but in the courfe of
years becoming a grove by re gd the wild cotton tree, the logwood ;
»
666 : ‘WEST INDIES.
and the locuft tree, moft grateful in thefe torrid regions hy its night of
fhade, cape inferior to thefe are the wide-fpreading mahogany, the
brafiletto, and the cabbage palm, the talleft of all vegatables, tifing fome.
times in a ftraight majeftic column to the heiglit of nearly two hundred feet,
The tamarind tree is diftinguifhed for its airy elegance, and its acid pods,
of no mean eftimation in this fultry climate. The laurus chloroxylum, or
cog wood, is of high value in mill work ; and the iron wood, the Bar.
badoes'cedar, and a fpecies of cordia, known in the Englith iflands b
the ee of Spanith elm, are in great requeft for durable fubstantial
tmber. .
The fruits of the Weft Indies are defervedly celebrated for their va.
riety and flavour ; the plantations in the mountainous diftri&ts yield the
apple, the peach, the fig, the grape, the pomegranate, the orange, and
‘the other European fruits, while the more fultry parts abound in
native products that may well vie with, if they do not furpafs, thefe
adopted ftrangers: the pine apple, the fapota or fapadilla, the avocato
pear, the cafhew nut, the cocoa nut, the pfidium or guava, the cuftard
apple, the papaw, the fliaddock, and’ the granadilla, form the prin.
cipal.
"The commercial products of thefe iflands are for the moft part procured
from cultivated and naturalized vegetables, which therefore can {carcely
be admitted in an acount of their indigenous plants. The vanilla how.
ever is found truly wild iv the woods of Jamaicaand St. Domingo ; the
aloe, though cultivated only at Barbadoes, grows {pontaneonfly on the
dry rocky foils of Cuba, the Bahamas, and many other of the iflands ;
the bixaorellana, from which is procured the 2nnotta, is common to the
Weft Indies, and all the hot parts of Amcrica; and the fragrant pimento,
or all-fpice, is not only a genuine native, but even refufes to be propa.
gated by human care. Of all the beautiful {pecies of myrtle, the "na
is perhaps the moft beautiful, and from the eloqueut pen of Bryan
Edwards it has received’ its merited en it rifes in natural gioves on
the fide of the mountains that look toward the fea, to the height of
twenty or thirty feet, andas no other fhub will grow beneath its
thade, it always affords a cool open walk, perfumed with the exquifite
Sega of its {nowy bloffoms, floating in loofe clufters on its deep
n foliage.
But few of the other indigenous vegetables of the Weft Indies are
likely to intereft the general reader ; of thefe the arborefcent ferns are
erhaps the mof ftriking ; while the Britith ferns never exceed the
Peight of three or four feet, and die to the ground at the appruach of
winter, thofe f{pecies that enjoy the val fummer of thefe iflands
gte perennial plants; and the arborefcent polypody in pe,
throws up a trunk above twenty fect high, terminated by broad pinnated
leaves, which gives it exaétly the habit and general appearance of a
tree.
Three plante remain to be mentioned, namely, the guiseum or lignum
vite, of which both the refin and the wood are ulerol, the former in
medicine, the latter as @ material for pulleys and turnery ware; win-
terana canella, whofe bark is introduced into. the pharmacopceia: and
Caribbean, = congenerous fpecies of the Peruvian bark.
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Publéched <A
( 667 )
- SOUTH AMERICA.
Extent. — Original Inbabitants. — Climate and- Seafors. — Lakes. —
ge pe a, Rivers. — Mountains.
E “HIS: divifion of the new:continent extends fouthward
hed from the mountainous boundary between the pro-
vinces of Veragua and Panama, the latter. province belonging to South
America. But the land afterwards afcending confiderably farther to
the north, the length miuft be computed'from about 12° of N. lat.-to
4° S. lat., and yet farther if the Terra del Fuego be comprifed. The
fengeh is at leaft fixty-fix degrees, or 2960 G. miles; while the breadth;
as already mentioned, ie about 2880 G. miles. \
Oricinay PosULAaTiIONn.] The original population of this large
ion of the earth remains obfcure, but may moft probably have been
m Africa, where copper-coloured: nations with long hair have been
recently difclofed: The conftant trade winds, blowing from eaft to
| weft, could f{carcely fail to impel fome rath ‘African mariners to the
American thores *.
Procressivé# Grocrarny.] The progreflive geography is here
. ent with the various difcoveties which have been indicated in
the general view of America. Many patts of the: interior are {till ob- |
fcure; wide regions on the great river of Amazons being covered with
impenetrable forefts, and others flooded by the inundations, fo that pre-
cifon can rarely be attained. In the fouth there are vaft faline plains,
and {mall fandy deferts, equally adverfe to geographical certainty. The
Spanifh maps are likewife of noted inaccuracy. . But great light has been
diffufed over South America by the recent large map of Don Juaw de
la Cruz, Cano, y Olmedilla, geographer to the king 1775, repub-
‘lithed by Mr. Faden 1799. So recent is any exadt delineation of this
} }
grand divifion of the New. World
Retiqion.] The religion of South America is in general the Ro-
man Catholic, with the exception of the {mall Dutch territory, and a
few favage tribes, = =
Cuimate anv szasons.] The fouthern extremity, extending far
beyond that of Africa, is expofed to all the. horrors. of the antarGtic
frofts s and Terra del Fuego in the S, lat. of 5 feems expofed to the
almoft perpetual.winter of Greenland in’ N, lat. -2°. ehuelia, or
Patagonia, confifting moftly of open deferts and fav: naas, with a few
willow treee on the rivers, feems to enjoy a temperate but rathet cool
climate, On proceeding towards the north, the great chain of the An-
des conftitutes real zones and:climates, which ftrangely contradi@ the
theories of ancient geographers; the chief inconveniencies of che torrid
zone being extreme cold on the mountains, and extreme moifture in the
lains +. _ Near Caliso the months of October and November form the
pring. In Peru what is. called fummer is the dry feafon, often ex-
cchons of Tebuels, called ‘Evropeans Peeper bo als ie thelr deed
‘ 4 w } t
the eaflera thotes, as looking wards the | y wucelbies. Boe’ the Fras
Aftronomical voyage, 1778, 4to. tom. i, aitd Falkner’s Patagonia.
+ Ulios, Memoires Philofophiques, Pesis, 1767, two vols, Byo. i, 89,
tremely
o~
668 SOUTH AMERICA.
tremely cold ; and the rainy feafon is called winter. The former begins
in May, which is nearly the beginning of winter in the lower. parts, and
continues till November, when the flight fogs, called winter in the vales
begin to difperfe. On the mountains, winter begins in December,
which in the plains is the firft month of fummer ; and a journey of four
hours conduéis the traveller from one feafon to another. :
In general the confined regions on the weft of the Andes are dry, the
clouds being arrefted by their fummits; while the wide countries on the
gaft of that chain are expofed to torrents of rain, from the eaftern or trade
winds blowing over the Atlantic. In Brazil the rainy feafon begins
in March or April, and ends in Auguft, when the {pring begins, or
yather the fummer; the diftinétion being only between wet and dry
feafons *,
Laxes.] South America can {carcely boaft of any inland fea; but
the great river of Amazons, and that of La Plata, may be faid to fupply
this deficiency; and if numeroufly peopled by.induftrious inhabitants,
there would be no room to complain of the want of inland navigation
throughout the greater part of this ample portion of the earth. The
gulfs on the S. W. extremity containing the ifles of Chiloe, St. Martin,
&c. are of {mall confequence, and in a remote and difadvantageous por
fition. No part of the globe difplays fo great a number of lakes as
North America; and the fouthern part of the. new continent is perhaps
equally remarkable by their rarity. Many fuppofed lakes, as that of
@arayos or Sharayos, in the courfe of the river Paraguay, only exift
during the annual inundations, which are on a far grander {cale than
thofe of the Ganges, and may be faid to deluge whole provinces, In
the moft northern part the Lagoon of Maracaybo is remarkable, being
a circular bafen about 1co B. miles in diameter, receiving numerous
rivers and rivulets, and communicating with the fea by a confiderable
creek. The celebrated lake Parima, called alfo Paranapitinca, or the
White Sea, is reprefented by La Cruz as more than 1co B. miles in
Jength by 50 in breadth.’ This fize, and even its exiftence, have been
doubted, as it was the noted feat of the city El Dorado, the ftreets of
which were paved with gold; a fable which feems to have arifen from.
a rock of talc refle&ing, Tike a mirror, the golden raysof thefun. Ac.
cording to La Cruz, this lake receives the Orinoco on the N. W., which
afterwards emerges, and purfues a wefterly courfe, till it finally bend
nerth and eaft. The Parima alfo gives fource to the great river of the
fame name, likewife called the Rio Blanco, which joins the river Negro,
and great river of Amazons. In this part of South America there is,
as it were, a conteft betwixt land and water: and fo level and mutable
is the foil, that the rivers feem dubious what.courfe ta purfue, as the
flow in every dire&tion, and branches of the Qrinoco communicate wit
the tributary rivers of the immenfe Maranon.
In Amagonia and Brazil there do not appear to be any lakes of confe,
quence; but the Portuguefe are inferior even to the Spaniards in geogra,
phy and natural hiftory, and many difcoyeries remajn te be made jn their
ample poffeffions. The Jake of Titicacs, nearly in the fame parallel, ang
in the kingdom of Perp, is regarded as the moi important in South Ame-
. Flea. Ulfoa fays that it is of an oval figure, the circumference about
240 miles f and the.depth 70.0r 80 fathoms. . It receives ten or twelve
e
Seat and feveral rivulets; but‘the water, though not faline, is naufeous,
a
eing probably tainted’ with fulphur or bitumen, Jt cqutains two kinds
# Filo, lib, i,
of
of fith, and is
Mango Capac
fun, his fathe
here a temple
dom, and pro
Spanifh invafi
lake *.
A few {ma
there are two
the S. of Chil
with the rive
of the T'chuel:
extent of te
Rivers. ]
to arms difcev
ly by a native
river, not onl
utation is no
length: fori
of China, and
mated at abou
but the eftua
ceed a mile o
of furprifing
have been con
provitices, like
The voyage
bas yet appea
afcertained.
Ucaial is the c
fuppofed Mar
when the othe
makes a great
map of La Cit
Apurimac, a1
pa, on the wel
prefentation b
and proper ri
Cruz, rifes fre
and after a lor
river. :
The Ucaial
Pari, and the
bends fometim
But the courf
more unexplor
and natural hi
fortunately ma
ignorant conce
On the cont
defcribed, and
* Ulloa, ii, 16:
+ Relation ab
1745, 6vo,
}. P, 69.
soUTH AMERICA: 86
of fith, and is frequented by geefe and wild fowl. In an ifle of this lake
Mango Capac, the founder of the Peruvian monarchy, reported that the
fun, his father, had placed him, with his fifter and confort, Oello ; and
here a temple was dedicated to the fun, the moft {plendid in the kings
dom, and profufely decorated with plates of gold and filver. On the
Spanifh invafioa thefe treafures are Rid to have been thrown into the
e*, .
A few {mall lakes are found near bf courfe of the river Parana ; and
there are two large lagoons on the eaftern coaft, lat. 31° 33’. ‘Towards
the S. of Chilithere are fome lakes of confiderable fize, communicating
with the river of Sauzes, or Willows, one of them being called the lake
of the Tehuels: anda few fmall lakes farther to the S. are faline, a wide
extent of territory being impregnated with nitre.
Rivers.] The river of Amazons, fo called from a female tribe inured
to arms difcevered on its banks, by the firft navigators, but more proper-
ly by a native term the Maranon, is celebrated as the moft diftinguifhed
river, not only in South America, but in the whole world : and this res
utation is no doubt juft, when its magnitude is confidered, as well as its
length : forin the latter attribute it feems to be rivalled by the Kian Ku
of China, and perhaps by the Ob of Siberia? The length may be efti-
mated at about 2300 miles; and that of the Rio dela Plata about 1000, ‘.
but the eftuary of the Ob is frozen, and that of the Kian Ku cannot ex
ceed a mile or two in breadth, while the two grand American rivers are.
of furprifing magnitude. The Chinefe annals fay that their great rivers
have been confined by art, while in ancient times they inundated whole.
provitices, like the Maranon, Rik
The voyage of Condamine contains the moft accurate defcription which
bas yet appeared of this grand river +. The fource is not yet abfolutely
sleoriaioed. The celebrated mathematician, juft quoted, fays that the
Ucaial is the chief {tream, as its fources are more remote than thofe of the
fuppofed Maranon; and it is a confiderable river in the fame parallel,
when the other is only a torrent t.. On the other hand. the Maranon
makes a greater circuit, and is of extraordinary depth. In the valuable
map of La Cruz, what he calls the ancient Maranon, or Pari, receives the.
Apurimac, a river of far longer courfe, rifing near the town of Arequi-
pa, on the weit of the great lake of Titicaca, S. lat. 16° 30!._ If this re-
prefentation be juft, there is no doubt that the Apurimac is the original
and proper river of Amazons. The new Maranon, according to La
Cruz, rifes from the lake of Lauricocha, near the fource of the Pari,
and after a long courfe to the N. W. and then E. falls into this latter
ver.
The Ucaial, thus confifting of two main fources, the old Maranon or
Pari, and the Apurimac, after pafling the great chain of the Andes,
bends fometimes N. W. fometimes N. E. till it receive the New Maranon.
But the courfe of the Ucaial being through a more remote country, and
more unexploretl forefts than that of the New Maranon, its chief features
and natural hiftory are lefs known; and the favages on its banks un-
fortunately maffacred their miffionary in 1695, fo that we are almoft wholly
ignorant concerning this noble river.
On the contrary, the Lauricochaor New Maranon has been repeatedly |
defcribed, and was navigated by Condamine from near the town of Jaen,
* Ulloa, ii, 163, or tom. i. 594. of the French tranflation.
+t Relation
# abrégée d'un Voyage fait dans l’interieur de !’Amerique Meridionale, Pati,
4s, 6vo. é » 4
3. P, 69.
where
SS ee
‘ 2
670 SOUTH AMERICA.
where it begins to be navigable; thence paffing N.E., it arrives at the ex.
terior fide af the Andes, which it downs ee a pale called the “Niobing
word in the Peruvian language implying a gate. This fublime feene dif.
plays the Lauricocha confined betwcen two parallel walls of almoft per.
pendicularrock. From a breadth of 250 fathoms, the river is here con.
tracted to 253 but the rapidity is not extreme, and a raft paffes the two
leagues in about an hour. : im
' After the junction of thefe two great rivers, the Maranon, befides
{maller ftreams, receives from the north the Nape, the Parana, Yupuro,
the Great Negro which has received the Parima 5 and from the fouth
the Cuchivara or Araza, and the prodigions ftream called Madera, con-
fifting of the Bene, the Mamore, and the Ytenas, the chief fources of
which are from the eaftern fide of the Andes, watering a vaft extent of
this wide continent. The Madera may indeed be regarded as another
‘grand fource of the river of Amazons: which is alfo joined from the
outh by the Topaifa and Shingu, while its eftuary is conneGted with
the great Brazilian river called ‘Tooantinas. Like the Miffouri and Se.
Lawrence, the Maranon is difcoloured with mud. The breadth at the
Portuguefe boundary is faid to be a league, but it is generall about
two miles; and no bottom is sound at 103 fathoms. The effed of the
tides is perceivable to the diftance of 600 miles. The banks are
generally crowned with vait forefts of lofty trees, among which are
_ many of a rare and medicinal nature. Serpents of prodigious fize are
found in the marfhes, and alligators are alfo commen. It feems certain,
from Condamine, that fome female warriors ftill exift towards the north
of this great river. After it has received the nil the breadth
from fhore to fhore cannot be difcovered by the eyes ear its mouth
the bore rifes from twelve to fifteen feet in height ; and the noife of
this irruption is heard at the diftance of two leagues *.
The Rio de la Plata, or river of Silver, is the conjun& flood of the
Paraguay, the Pilcomayo, the Parana, and the Urucuay. The main
fireams are the Paraguay and the Parana; and it would feem that the
latter isthe lougeft and moft confidcrable, rifing in the great mine moun.
tains of Brazil, lat. 19°; and bending S. then W. till it receive the Iba
Parana, after which it bends S. W. till it is joined by the Paraguay,
while the conjun& rivers are {till called the Parana by the natives, and
the Rio de la Plata by the Spaniards. The grand catara& of the
Parana is in lat. 24°, not far from the oy of Cuayra ; but is rather
a feries of rapids, for a fpace of twelve leagues, amidit rocks of tre.
mendous wit fingular forms +. This noble river is alfo Hudded with
numerous iflands ; and Spanith veffels navigate to the town of Affump-
tion, about 400 leagues from the fea. On the thores are often found
geods inclofing cryitals; but the natural hiftery of the Parana is
nearly as obfcure as that of the Ucaial. The breadth of the efuary
is fuch that the land cannot be difcovered from a fhip in the middle of
the ftream. we nas
The third great river in South America is the Orinoco, of a moft
fingular and perplexed courfe, According to La Cruz it rifes in the
{mall lake of Ipava, N. lat. 5° 5's and thence winds almoft ina f iral
form ; firft salt to the S. E. it enters the lake of Parima, and iffucs
* This effect called pororoca is chiefly obfervable towards the cape del Norte on the
th of the A . Condemine; p. 193. ;
pee Dobvizholfer, i. 206. This pi P- 188. feems rightly to effert that the Parane is
the chief ftream, whicli receives the Paraguay end Urucuay. ‘the inundations are chiefly
in December and January, rifing about five . iy yards above the if_cts, Falkner, p. *
by two outlet
receiving the |
Ocean by an «
chief eftuary. ;
of great fize f
there are oth
of Parima, wi
Orinoco, the
River, and the
the Siaba, flu
joins another
Orinoco. Th
the Maranon,
tions between
when one of t
authors, it wa
ufual courfe o
formal difquifi
La Cruz, that
authenticity of
Parima; andli
navigations, th
pofleffion of
Andalufia, one
The other ris
the chief being
that of St. Fra
of the great P:
Sauzes, or riv
Chulclau and t
Malouin or Fal
Mounrain
of the grande
lofty on the fg
moft {ublime ar
the Andes ftre
in the fouthern
of Darien, ‘a fy
the windings o
miles. The chi
pute The b
that given by
17357-17435
ithed two vie
higheft of thefe
and about ten
. mathematicians
20,280 feet: ab
Recs part of ¢
about 2400 fee
the high plain c
computed heigh
Tan f) they fti
SOUTH AMERICA. 673
by two outlets on the N. and S. of that lake towards the W., but after
receiving the Guaviari, ‘it bends N. then N. E. till it enter the Atlantic
Ocean by an extended delta oppofite to the ifle of Trinidad; but the
chief eftuary. is confiderably to the S. E. of that ifland. Many rivers
of great fize flow into the Pirinego 3 aud in addition to its dingnlae form
there are other remarkable peculiarities. From the S. E. of the lake
of Parima, which feems to bea kind of inundation formed by the
Orinoco, the White River, called alfo that of Parima, joins the Black
River, and thence, the great flood of the Maranon. Another {ftream,
the Siaba, flows from the S. W. of the lake into the Black River and
joins another ftream, which directly connects the Maranon with the
Orinoco. There is alfo a communication between the Black River and
the Maranon, by the Joa Parana. Hence there ave three communica-
tions between thefe great rivers; a circum{tance fo uncommon, that
when one of thefe communications only had been afferted by Spanith
authors, it was rejected by geographical theorifts as contrary to the
ufual courfe of nature, and Condamine was obliged to enter into a
formal difquifition in order to re-eftablifh it. A route laid down by
La Cruz, that of Solano Governor of Caracas, feems to confirm the
authenticity of his intelligence concerning the environs of the lake of
Parima; and little doubt can remain concerning thefe wonderful inland
navigations, thus prepared by the hand of nature, and which, in the
ffeffion of an induftrious people, would render Guiana, or New
Andalufia, one of the mott flourifhing countries in the world.
The other rivers of South America gre comparatively of {mall account,
the chief being the Magdalena, ruuning N. to the Caribbean fea; and
that of St. Francis which waters a great part of Brazil. To the S.
of the great Parana there is the river Mendoza, and the Rio de los
Sauzes, or river of Willows; followed in the fartheft fouth by the
Chulclau and the Gallegos, the lait entering the Pacific oppofite to the
Malouin or Falkland iflands.
Mounrains.] The mountains of South America conftitute fome
of the grandeft objeéts in natural geography, being not only the mo&
lofty on the face of the globe, but intermixed with volcanoes of the
moft fublime and terrific defcription. The extent is alfo prodigious,
the Andes ftretching in one line from the capes of Ifidro and Pilares,
in the fouthern extremity of the continent, to the weft fide of the gulf
of Darien, ‘a {pace of not lefs than 4600 miles, as they generally follow
the windings of the coaft, at the medial diftance of about one hundred
miles. The chief fummits are near the equator, not far from the city of
uito. The beft account of thefe celebrated mountains feems to be
that given by Bouguer, one of the French mathematicians, who in
1735-=1743, meafured a degree near the equator, and who has pub.
ied two-views of their appearance near Quito *, Chimborazo, the
higheft of thefe mountains, about 100 B. miles to the S. of Quito,
and about ten miles to the N. of Riobamba, wag computed by thefe
. mathematicians to be 3217 Frevch toifes above the level of the fea, or
20,280 feet: about so00 feet, or one quarter higher than Mont Blanc.
That part of Chimborazo which is covered with perpetual fnow is
about 2400 feet from the fummit. ‘But thefe mountains are elevated on
the high plain of Quito, which conftitutes more than one third of the
computed height; fo that confidered as mere excrefcences from the
land, they fill yicld to Mout Blanc. ay
@ Figure de la Terre, Pasis, 1749, 4t0.
*
The
if
ae
epee rere re nie”
672 SOUTH AMERICA: _
e next in height is fuppofed to be’ the volcans called. Cotopacf},
liners at about 18,600 cet, and fituatéd about twenty five miles td
the S. E. of Quito. Other Fe fummits dre Pachincha, a few mileg
to the N. E. of Quito, the Altar, and Sanga to the Ss. E. of Chim.
borazo. In general the Andes here proceed in a double chains the inter:
val being the plain of Quito: to the weftern fidge belong Pichinchay.
Tliniffa, Chimborazo, &c:, while the eaftern is crowned by Cotopacf;
the Altar, Sanga, &c.; and this form continues at leaft for about 500
miles from the Bath of Cuenza to the north of Popayan *. Mineralogy
‘was at that time an unknown f{ciénce ? and Bouguer only informs ug
that the bottom is clay, andthe fummit a imafs of ftones ! The
American Alps, clothed with perpetual fnow; extend a great diftance
farther to the north towards the junétion of the Cauca dnd Magdalena }
but about two degrees to the Ni of the equator they are not a ove One
quarter the height, Farther to the fouth they dlfo giedtly decreafe in
elevation. neal avr |
ing to the account of Humboldt, a Pruffian ‘naturalitt, who
bid tatsly sited” u confiderable part of South America}, there are
three other remarkable chains of mountains which proceed from weft -
to the equitor 3 and which by their height deferve the
fins pa Penh Mo much as the Carpathian thountains, or the
Pyrenees, though it has been fuppofed that, on the ealt of . thé Andes,
ientwwale } lains extend to the fhores of Guiana and Brazil, and even to
| Patagonia.
bri hard bed et coaft, between nine and teri degrees of north
5 nae of Patimay, or the chain of the catara€ts of Orinoco, from three
. lat t. :
" The chain of Chiron between 15° and 20° of 8. latitude.
The moft northern, or that of the coaft of Venezuela, 18 the moft
lofty, but the narroweft, From the high plain of Quito the great
ch n of the Andes extends, by Popayan and Choco, on the welt of
the river Atrato, towards the Ifthmus, where on the banks of the
Chagree, it only forms mountainous land about 1200 feet high. : Front
the fame Andes proceed feveral branches, one called the Sietra de Abibe
towards the province of St. Marta §. This chain of the coatt is reftrid.
ed, as it approaches the gulf of Mexico, and cape of Vela, and after:
wards ruxs due eaft towards the mountain of Paria, or even to the ifle
of Trinidad. The greateft height is in the two Sierras Nevadas of
St. Marta, and of Merida||. The firft being near 5000 varas or
Spanihh yards, and the fecond 5400 varas, about 14,000 feet itd
above the fea. Several mountains of this chain are perhaps equa in
height to Mont Blane; petuall covered with fnow, and pe
parkig from their fides itreams of boiling fulphureous Water: an
the higheft peaks are folitary amidft mountains of little height, that
of Merida is near the plain of Caracas, which is only 260 feet above
the fea. ‘
Bouguer, xxxii. hoe
¢ Joursal de Vhyfique, Meffidor ix. July 1801.
2 Thefe cataraSs are at Maypura and
tara ther i ar
Se ee oie bes Malis te Crees eich thom ek vite AGG ba hk. ° Ucn
ee ur euthor’ latitaides do not correfpond with the mep of Le Cruz, who gives the
Nevede of Merida betwees let, 8° and 9°. '
The
tures, N. lat. 6. in the:map of La Crus; the: .
The general
with the excep’
The fecondary
limeftone and cz
point of the con
north than the |
1300 toifes in t
of this chain be:
The fecond «
little known, ar
years. This ch
weit to eaft, fro:
N.E. of that ri
Orinoco, lat. 5°
yet opened tows
continue ite cou
times not lefs th;
fill wider, defce
part-of it Dorac
micaceous {chift
the lake of Parir
dire€tion, and joi
to the river of S
number of fava
does it feem to r
coat ;' the moun
higheft, and was
it is a pidturefqu
end of the rainy
alm trees and
Broken rocks 3 b
ftrata, the rocks |
te,
The third ch
known to our aut
It unites the An
Paraguay; ftretc
provinces of Mox
the mines, and of
between 15° and
that of La Plata.
Between thefe
mentioned, three
Amazons, and th
at., allo ning t
mi Y> or
that the rivers ald
are favannas, or g
that fometimes fo
or ten inches in h
ones re limef
¢ te eve
the. W. Pers
are fometimes pa
ange of Parima
SOUTH AMERICA. | 673
The general height of the chain of the coaft is from 6 to 806 toifes,
with the exception of the high peaks, but lowering towards the calt.
The fecondary mountairs however to the S, of this chain, conlifting of
limeftone and calcareous fand{tone, increafe in height, towards the eattern
oint of the continent. The chain of the coaft is more teep towards the
north than the fouth: and there is a dreadful perpendicular precipice of
1300 toifes in the Silla de Caracas, above Caravellede, the northern part
of this chain being, perhaps broken by the gulf of Mexico.
The fecond chain, that of Parima, or of the cataraé&ts of Orinoco, is
little known, and was fcarcely efteemed paffable till within thefe thirty
ars. This chain leaves the Andes near Popayan, and ftretching from
weit to eaft, from the fources of the Guiaviari, appears to extend to the
N.E. of that river, forming the cataraéts of Maypura and Atures in the
Orinoco, lat. 5°, which are truly:dreadful, but prefent the only paffage
yet opened towards the vale of Amazons. Thence this chain feems to
continue ite courfe N. E. to the river Caronis, the breadth being fome-
times not lefs than 120 leagues. Farther to the eaft this range becomes
ftill wider, defcending fouth along the Mao, where the Dutch flylea
part-of it Dorado, or the mountain of gold, being compofed of bright
micaceous {chiftus, which has given a like reputation to a {mall ifle in
the lake of Parima. To the eaft of the Efquibo this range takes a S.E.
dire€tion, and joins the granitic mountains of Guiana, which give fource
to the river of Surinam, and others. This wide range is inhabited by a
number of favage tribes, little or not at all known in _ apt No where
does it feem to rife to an equal height with the northern range of the
coat ‘the mountain of Duida, not far from Efmeralda, is reputed the
higheft, and was found by Humboldt to be 1323 toifes above the fea :
it is a picturefque and majeftic mountain, ejecting flames towards the
end of the rainy feafon, and fituated near a beautiful plain, covered with
se trees and ananas. Towards the eaft the chain feems to expire in
roken rocks ; but there is no appearance throughout of any fecondary
cae the rocks being granite, gueifs, suicaceous fohiftus, and hornblende
te. '
The third chain of-primitive mountains, or that of Chiquitos, is only
known to our author by the accountsof thofewho have paffed the Pampas.
It unites the Andes of Peru and Chili with the mountains of Brazil and
Paraguay, ftretching from La Paz and Potofi and Tucuman through the
provinces of Moxos, Chiquitos, and Chaco, towards the government of
the mines, and of St. Paul in Brazil. The higheft fummits appear to be
between 15° and 20°; the rivers there pafling to that of Amazons, or
that of La Plata. : ie
Between thefe three great ridges are, according to the author already
mentioned, three immenfe valleys, that of Orinoco, that of the river of
Amazons, and that of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, from 19° to 52° S,
lat., all opening to the eaft, but. hut on the weft by the Andes.
middle valley, or that of the Amazons, is covered. with forefts fo thick,
that the rivers alone form roads; while thofe of Orinoco and Pampas
are favannas, or grafly plains, with a few fcattered palms ; and {0 level,
that fometimes for 800 fquare leagues there ie no inequality above eight
or ten inches in height. In the northern plain, the primitive rock is
covered with limeftone, gypfum, and freeftones while in that of Amazons
the granite evéry where rifes to the day. The general inclination is to
the NN. W. Petrifaétions are uncommon even in the Andes, where there
are fometimes patches of gypfum and féecondary limeftone; while the
vange of Parima confifts entirely of granite and other primitive _
% $
674 SPANISH DOMINIONS
i areous freeftone of the northern ridges of the coaft, Hume
pel astene numbers of fhells, feemingly gett petrifaGtiion, as
they are thofe of the fea now nine leagues diftant.
A practical German mineralogift, employed for fome years in. the
mines of Peru *, informs us that the eaftern {pure of the Audes fome.
times prefent red and green granite, and gneifs, as towards Cordova and
Tucunan : but the grand chain chiefly confiits of argillaceous fchiftus,
or various kinds of thick flate, on which, in many places, are incumbent
ftrata of limeftone, and large maffes of ferruginous fandftone. Amid
the argillaceous fchiftus, the metals fometimes occur in veins of quartz,
Sometimes in.alluvial layers of fandftone and ironfand, Near Potafi me
irregular beds of large bullets of granite; and the celebrated “seb fo
rich in filver ore, is chiefly compofed of a firm yellow ar betecie te,
full of veins of ferruginous quartz, in which fome of the tar 9 “
found. _In paffing the higheit ridge of the Andes, between nee ian
Li , Helms ftill found argillaceous {chiftus the predominant f{ubftance,
i pe laces cc dered with alluvial layers of marl, gypfum, limeftone,
fand, satan of porphyry, and even rock falt ; yet rich filver occurs
‘ jn abundance.
SPANISH DOMINIONS
IN
SOUTH AMERICA.
ided i i alties, La Plata, Peru, and New
da The he a te in or are that of Caracas, which from
ite polition may be deferibed in a fupplement to New corr a
Ch i, itfelf a fettlement of no fmall importance. The work o 7 ‘ .
fi fi materiale fufficiently ample for a recent defcription of thefe
ae tin colonies, and fhall be ufed as the chief foundation, the accounts
in other worke being often antiquated and erroneous.
T= Spanith dominions in South America, themfelves an empire,
_ CHAPTER I.
THE VICEROYALTY OF LA PLATA, OR BUENOS AYRES.
RK es of Spanifo America.
cy we Ae gang Since nigge wit + el =~
Nerwet | Geography. :
iceroyal fo lately a8 1778, is not
eo ee aok ogy I boty ot oh that by which
ournal of a J through Peru, from Buenos
'® Tegetech einer Reife, &e. AJ fore ro yg yd a
‘ le Pow6 to r) £
‘By Auleny Zedars Hobos, Rol 8 mas :
ry 1798. : ‘ ,
‘eru,
eefder
the chief opul
to the parent |
terefts of Eur
north, and exte
called. the Pan
tiver Negro m
degrees or 14.4¢
may be comput
extent at i060
to include Chil
of a thoufand |
fquare leagues
while there is ix
handful of fava
. Provinces,
jurifdiGion belc
Buenos Ayres,
Generales, that
viceroys of Per
The part of Pe:
provinces or dif
Guaranis forme
When this n
remained the {a
his catholic me
in 1782, and a
defcription an er
method, and the
I Pampas
2 Tuyu -
3 Buenos 4
4 condone
5 Cuyo an
6 Charens
9 Guarania
8 Paragua
9 Chaco
10 Salta
It Jujuy
t2 Chichas a
13 Lipes
14 Atacama
15 Potofi or
of La Plata on
already mentione
the grand chain d
In the obfcuri
not be unufeful ¢
which would in ¢
alla has gi
inferior parts o
precious
Mentions the Ca
mines. of Potofi.
The proviness mx
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 675
the chief opulence of the Spanifh dominions in South America pafles
to the parent country, and is interwoven with the commerce. and in:
terefts of Europe. Inclutling the favage Chiquitos and Mojos in the~
north, and extending to the fouthern limits of Tuyu and the wide/plains
called. the Pampas, its length from the chain of Vilcanota to near the
tiver Negro may be-affumed from 14° S. lat. to near 38°, that is 24
degrees ori4.40 g. miles, The breadth, which is generally pretty equal,
may be computed at 12 degrees, ot 720 g. miles. -Eftalla computes the
extent at 1060 Spanifh, or rather American leagues, (but feems vaguely
to include Chili), arid the greateft breadth at 350, forming a triangle
of a thoufand leagues in height, on a bafe of 350, equal to:175,000
fquare leagues; which might, he adds, fupport 50,000,000 perfons,
while there is in fa&t {carcely one million of civilized inhabitants, and a
handful of favages, — :
- Provinces. Before the erection of this viceroyalty moft of the
jurifdiion belonged to that of Peru, although the theee provinces of
Buenos Ayres, Paraguay and Tucuman were confidered as Capitanias
Generales, that is the govenors had an authority independent of the
viceroysof Peru, except in inftances of great importance and difficulty.
The part of Peru now annexed to La Plata was divided into well kiown
provinces or diftriéts; and the miffions of the Chiquitcs, Mojos, and
Guaranis formed three diftinét governments.
When this new viceroyalty was proclaimed, the form of government
remained the fame, the title alone being changed. The ordinance of
his catholic majefty for the fubdivifion of the viceroyalty was iffued
in 1782, and appointed nine intendancies, But in a geographical
defcription an enumeration of the principal. provinces will be the cleareft
method, and the progrefs fhall be made from the fouth.
1 Pampas 16 Plata :
2 Tuye - 17 Santa Cruz dela Sierra
3 Buenos Ayres 18 Chayanta
4 Cordova 19 Oruro and Poria
5 Cuyo and Mendoza 20 Carangas
6 Charcas 2t Pacajes
9 Guarania 22 La Paz .
8 Paraguay 23 Cochabamba
9 Chaco 24 Sicafica
10 Salta 25 Laricaja and Oma/uyos.
11 Jujuy 26 Chucuito
t2 Chichas and Tarija 27 Punoor Paucarcola
13 Lipes 28 Lampa
14 Atacama 29 Afangaro '
1§ Potofi or Porco 30 Carabaya, the laf province
of La Plata on the N. of the great lake of Titicaca, and divided as
already mentioned from the Peruvian province of Canes and Canches by
the grand chain of the Cordillera called Vilcanota.
In the obfcurity of the geography of the Spanith dominions, it may
not be unufeful to offer fome remarks on particular provinces, a plan
which would in other cafes more ftri&ly belong to cliorography.
Ettalla has given brief defcriptions of what he calls the upper and
inferior parts of the viceroyalty, The former is peculiarly rich in the
procionenetee only yielding to Mexico in this refpect: he {pecially
mentions the Cordillera of Lipes; and to Porco belong the celebrated
mines. of Potofi. The metals.of Oruro and Paria are alfo celebrated.
The provinces moft rich in gold Sy Laricaja and Carabaya ; while =
x2 ° that
676 SPANISH DOMINIONS
that produce the greateft quantity of filver ‘are Lampa, Puno, Chucuito;
Oruro, Chayanta, and Chichas, not to mention the celebrated Potofi,
Carangas aud Pacajes are celebrated for the breed of pacos, which are
ufed as beafts of burden. Lampa and Afangaro are noted for the
produce of wool, the fheep in the former being eftimated at near a
million. Thefe diftri&te with Chucuito alfu rear cattle and horfes. In
the provinces of Salta and Jujuy, mules form a prodigious article of
trade, fuppofed to yield 200,000 dollars annually. Cochabamba pro-
duces abundance of wheat and maize, fo as to fupply Oruro, La Paz,
and other upland provinces. Santa Cruz de la Sierra, which ranks
among the warm regions beneath the chain of mountains, trades in
honey, fugar and bees,
In the lower part of the viceroyalty, Eitalla obferves, that the pro-
vince of Buenos Ayres comprehende three other cities, befides the
capital, namely Montevideo, Corrientes, and Santa Fé. The chief
products of this province are beeves and mules. Cordova is chiefty:
celebrated for woollen manufa€tories, being feated on the eaftern fide
of a d and high branch of the Andes. Mendoza, formerly a town
of Chili, alfo adwins to the mountains. e rivers in thefe parts are
moftly torrents which fwell with the rains, but at other times they are
left nearly dry. Several are loft in lakes and marfhes, in the wide plains
of Chaco. :
The name of Tucuman, according to our author, is fuperannuated,
and that town is now in the Saeentangy of Salta. The province of
Cuyo lies amidft the mountains which extend from the great chain
towards Cordova, but there are many fertile valleys; being feparated
from Chili by the Andes, the adminiftration is annexed to that of
Cordova. Cuyo produces in great abundance grapes, figs, pears,
apples, and moft Finds of European fruits, which form the chief
articles of its trade. Wines, brandy, and dried fruits are alfo carried
to Buenos Ayres, Cordova, and other parts of the four intendancies,
The wines differ confiderably from thofe of Eyprope, but are preferred
for daily ufe. It is faid that Mendoza and San Juan de la Frontera
have exported in one year more than 20,000 barrels of wine, which
brought 200,000 dollars. Thefe with the brandies therefore form a
confiderable property. The mountains of Cuyo and Rioja alfo abound
in metals; but the pafles being more difficult than that of Mendoza,
there is no inducement to work them®. In the northern part of the
fame chain, are many flocks of the vicunas, whofe wool is fometimes
wrought in the country, but chiefly fent to Europe, where it is ccle.
brated as the firft of all in broad cloths, uniting the glofs of filk, with
the firmnefe and warmth of woollen, while the native fawn-colour can
icarcely be exceeded in beauty. :
The villages of the Guaranie, which compofe a government called
that of the Miffions, amount to thirty, from the river Tebiquari in
Paraguay to the frontiers of Buenos Ayres, being moftly to the EF.
of the river Parana; the eaftern borders of the Guaranis extend along
Brazil, while on the W. they border on Paraguay, Corrientes, and
Santa Fé. :
The grand and fertile province of Paraguay has not been defcribed
by Eftalla, but the defeé may eafily be fupplied by the excelfent work
of Dobrizhoffer t+. ‘Though thie province produces none of the preci-
ous
* Mendoea draws great wealth from the prodigious mine of U:
¢ Hitoria de Aliponiine. Vienne, 1704, 3 vols. 6v0,
See Chill. |
lively Singularity of pi
ous metals, it
its vegetable p
cattle, and thee
of Paraguay h
Jefuits were c
Abipons and (
The- Pampa
coat on the E
Cordillera of |
Ayres. Tows
proceeding W.
are not dittin&
the territory «
Thefe vat plai
tions, the view,
diverfified with
which commor
wide tracks in
trees are extren
this re ne ts
nerally a blac
ee conte white
can fcarcely p
clover, and in
ftep of a horfe
water, multiply
through thefe |
fettlements.
The province
Salta and Corc
which Eftalla
had.rather efca
and in fome pla
isa ar {pe
or rather ja ,
efpecial ly atl
paths. In the |
called guebrach
breaks the axe.
latter, after bei
In the fame pro
ftrength and be
river called Sal
kind of cars or.
city of Salta is
of February an
(carcely paffable
wheat and abun
old. man’s Latin is {ei
in authentic and une
account yet
eruthed, he feems to
© ay, 199,
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 677
ous metals, it is one of the moft opulent in the new viceroyalty, from
its vegetable produations, and from the prodigious herds « f horfes, mules,
cattle, and fheep, which enliven its extenfive plains. The northern parts
of Paraguay have however been little exploned, asthe fettlements of the
Jefuits were chiefly in the fouthern ftirts, and among the adjacent
Abipons and Guaranis.
The- Pampas, or vaft plaine of Buenos Ayres, extend from the fea
coaft on the E. to that great chain which forms the beginning of the
Cordillera of Chili, about 140 leag:es W. from the city of Buenos
Ayres. Towards the S. they ffretch about 102 leagues to a chain
proceeding W. N. W. from the Atlantic. The northern boundaries
are not dittinétly known, but the name of Pampas is chiefly applied to
the territory on the S. of Buenos Aytes, Cordova, and Mendoza,
Thefe vat plains, like the ftepps of Ruffia, having {carcely any eleva-
tions, the view, asat fea, is terminated by the horizon. They are only
diverfified with paths and ditches, which colle& the rain waters, and
which commouly end in dakes, as there is no declivity ; yet there are
wide tracks in which no water is found, nor is that element pure, and
trees are extremely rare, except a few fhrubg round the lakes. Hence
this region is only inhabited by a few wandering favages, The foil is
generally a black earth, but of little depth, and is followed by a kind
of coarfe white chalk, fo that it is difficult to form wells, as the water
can fcarcely pafs fo tenacious a fubltance. The chief pafturage is
clover, and in the beft parts, fometimes fo ftrong as to impede the
ftep of a horfe; it is much liked by the cattle, who, when there is
water, multiply prodigioufly in the Pampas. The favages, who roam
ehewegh thefe deferte, fometimes furprife Spanifh caravans, and {mall
ettlements.
kind of cars or carts, ufed in tranfporting articles of commerce. The
city of Salta is noted for a great concourfe of merchants in the months
of Feb and March, though in the rainy feafon the roads are
{carcely paffable; the furrounding vale of Lerma produces excellent
wheat and abundant pafturage, but the poor are tormented with a kind
old man’s Latin is (tfel? an amufement; and thouvh fometimes garrulous, he is redundant
in authentic and uncommon ohfervations. His work, ¢ hearing a reftrifted title is
the bef account yet publithed of the whole viceroyalty of La ata. When the order was
Spot, he Seem wo hare ceafed tu have been « Jefuit,
Mba us Xs of
698 SPANISH DOMINIONS
of leprofy, The graziers who deal in mules, and the merchants, chi
Gallicians, are robuft, and the women are remarkable for ee?
tiful complexions and flowing hair, .
“Government. ] The government of the Spanith colonies in America
has always been conducted with fuperlative prudence, except with
pes abi to the number of the clergy and monaftic inftitutions, The
college of the Indies, generally confifting of the moft enlightened
men in Spain, has “greatly contributed to the wifdom of the admini,
ftration. While the French colonifts look upon their abode in a diftant
country as only a temporary fource to procure means of exiftence in
France, Spain has, by a very different policy, excited the colonitts to
remain in the new territories, and has held out every advantage for that
effe&t, which their avarice or vanity might have received at home.
Even the titles of Caftile, and the badges of knighthood, appear as
brilliant in the colonies as in the parent country ; and the ecclefiattic
titles of archbifhop and bifhop have been {cattered with profufion. A
rich colonift may, without leaving his domains, be created a duke, a
marquis, or a count ; and rather choofes to difplay his new ftar amon
his inferiors in rank, than to lofe its raysin.the milky way of the
Spanifh grandees. eae
Viceroy. ] The important government of La Plata is entrufted to a
viceroy, who has alfo the title of ‘captain-general, with anaffeffor, and
a fifcal *, There is alfo a fecretary, in the entire confidence of the
viceroy, and who retains three principal clerks. The jurifdiction of
the viceroy extends to the whole political management, except the
royal treafury, over which he has no authority. In the military depart.
ment, he is commander in chief under the fovereign. ee
The affeffor is alfo auditor, or fupreme judge ; and his military jurif,
diction is that of captain-general of the veteran troops, for the militia
is wholly fubje& to the viceroy. When the viceroyalty was eftablith.
ed it was ordered that the Peruvian model fhould be followed ; yet,
among the guards, the halbardiers and cavalry have been omitted, an
arrangement which diminifhes the idle pomp, without injuring the
power of the viceroys of La Plata. A more military ftyle has alfo been
adopted, the fortrefs at Buenos Ayres being regularly garrifoned with
a detachment of grenadiers, of whom one centinel is placed at the
bottom of the ftaircafe, and the other at the door of the faloan. The
want’ of the guard of cavalry is fupplied by a fele& band, who regularly
accompany the viceroy, two riding before and four behind, and whq
alfo carry his orders on particular occafions, ‘The falary of the viceroy
is 40,000 dollars; but after deduéting the half year, and other cafual-
tics, there remain about ‘30,000. He is nominated for three years;
and ‘if ‘the term be prolonged, the half year is again deduéted. The
falary of'the aiieffor, fifcal and fecretary is each between two and three.
thoufand dollars. The viceroy is fupreme prefident of the royal
audience’ of Charcas, and alfo of the new royal audience, erected
in 1785, at Biengs Ayres. He exercifes the royal vice-patronage, and
in that capacity has & grand fat and canopy in the cathedral, where
he is treated with the fame ceremonies as are paid to the monarch.
He approves the nomidation of the curates'; and his jurifdition extends
to the:monafteries in extraordinary cafes. He confirms the election of
the magiftrates of the cities ; and the povernon of provinces are his
fub-uelegates. “He is the fupreme head of the police, and {uperinten.
# Efalla, xavii. 268,
dant of the rev
who is poftmaf
TREASURY,
intendant of t
10,000 dollars,
fed of three
viceroyalty. -
‘The intende
adminiftration
In Paraguay, ’
the troops. T
captains-genera
The governors
the expence of
dant of Potofi,
a falary of ‘10,0
tion of juftice t
goinnally at the
appeal to the.
The affeffor ha:
rents, and 500
ancy, who hay
intendant gover
or death of the
revenue, and wi:
of the governm
troops are alon
viceroy,
In the chie
named for the
are alfo appoint
muft be made to
are ordinary jud
audience,
A great objed
corruption and
The idea of re
honourable em
denfome to the
that were fuppr
Befides the n
royalty of La
and t “ach of tl
power milita
and the Maly
ftructions.
PopuLation
at 1,000,200 §&
favages. ‘The 7
not exceed two
of Depons, am¢
dianss and Chil
amillion, Brag
600,000 negroes
another million,
IN SOUTH AMERICA. | 679
dant of the revenue of the ee office, under the firft minifter of ftate,
who is poftmatter-general, throughout the Spanifh monarchy.
Treasury, &c.} The royal treafury acknowledges as chief the
intendant of the army, a kind of paymafter-general. His falary is
10,000 dollars, and he prefides over the tribunal of accompts, compo- .
fed of three chief accomptants. He audits all the accompts of the
viceroyalty. -
‘The intendants of the provinces manage in their jurifdiGtions the
adminiftration of juftice, of the police, of the revenues and of war.
In Paraguay, Tucuman, and Santa Cruz they joined the command of
the troops. This form approaches to the ancient adminiftration of the
captains-general, except that there are more independent tribunals.
The governors intendants have a falary of 6000 dollars, and- 600 for
the expence of the fecretariate and vifiting their province. The inten-
dant of Potofi, who is alfo dire€tor of the mint, and of the bank, has
a falary of 10,000 dollars. To affift thefe gentlemen in the adminiftra-
tion of juitice the king appoints an affeffor, learned in the law, who is
geusrally at the fame time judge in civil and criminal caufes, with an
appeal to the. Royal audience, as there alfo is from the other judges,
The affeffor has a falary of 1000 dollars, derived from the municipal
rents, and 500 from the treafury, except. thofe of the general inten
dancy, who have 1000. The affeffors are entitled lieutenants of the
intendant governors; and as fuch, in cafe of the abfence, ficknefs
or death of the governors, decide on the four caufes of juftice, policy,
revenue, and war, direct the municipalities, and are confidered as chiefs
of the government. The vice-patronage and the command of the
troops are alone excepted, and fubmitted to the appointment of the
viceroy,
In Whe chief villages of the Indian diftri€ts, fub-delegates may be
named for the four caufes, In the large Spanifh ~illages fub-delegates
are alfo appointed for the two caufes of revenue and war; but report
muft be made to the intendant, while the fub-delegates over the Indians
are ordinary judyes in police and juftice, with an appeal to the Royal
audience.
A great objet of the new conftitution was to banifh all. kinds of
corruption and lucre, which formerly tainted the courts of juftice.
The idea of re-uniting different magiftracies and jurifdiétions in one
honourable employment, is praifed by our author; nor is it bur-
denfome to the treafury, becaufe the’ falaries and emoluments of thofe
that were fuppreffed are more than fufficient for the new magiftracy.
Befidvs the nine intendancies, there are four governments in the vice-
royalty of La Plata, viz. that of Montevideo, political and military 5
and thofe of the Guaranis, Chiquitos, and Mojos, who have great
power military and civil, ‘The eftablifhments on the Patagonian coatt,’
and the Maluinas or Falkland iflands, are fybje& to particular in-
ftructions, ;
Popuration.] Eftalla computes the population of this viceroyalty
at 1,000,000 Spaniards or creols, and an inconfiderable number of
favages. ‘The population of the two other viceroyalties probably does
not exceed two millions and a half, That of Caracas, by the account
of Depous, amounts to 728,080, inchiding whites, negroes, and Ine
diana; and Chili can fcarcely exceed the number tieceflary to complete
amillion, Brazil, by the beft accounts, contains 200,000 whites, and
600,000 negroes, while the natives are little more than would complete
another million, Thefe conjoined will yield five millions and a Palf;
X24 nor
680: SPANISH DOMINIONS
nor can more than fix millions be allowed for the general population of
the whole of South America. ;
: Aamy.] At Bueucs Ayres there are commonly two companies of
fulileers, a d2tachment of dragoons, and another of artillery, ferving
for the police of the city and the garrifon of the fortrefs, which is a
fquare built with ftone.and brick, feated on the banks of the river, and
the refidence of the viceroys. Befides the veteran troops there is a
body of 500 men, called Blandengs, divided into companies. The
are all natives of the country, and excellent horfemen, but little difci-
plined, and more {kilful in the {pear and the rope and ball, than in fire.
arms. Their chief ufe is to-defend the frontier; and there are alfo
fome blandengs in Santa Fé. The militia at Buenos Ayres is compofed
of tworegiments, as at Montevideo, and both in the fame blue uniform.
The youth of Buenos Ayres are generally fond of a military life; the city
being quite open is only defended by the fortrefs, but it is ftyled a
place of arms, with a royal lieutenant, who, in the abfence of the vice-
foy, exercifes a pulitical and military jurifdiction.
Such are the imperfe& hints which Eftalla has given on this impor.
tant fubjeét, though he have fo amply detailed, as we have feen, the
itate of the military in New Spain. It feems fcarcely poffible that the
2 viceroyalty of Kha Plata thould be defended by fuch an inadequate
°
rces and it is not improbable that at leaft ten or fifteen thoufand men |
would be found in arms-upon any ferious invafion.
. Manneas.} According to Effalla the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres
are of a fedate turn, affable, and polite. A theatre has been eftablifhed,
which promifes to meet with fuccefs*. Bull-fights were formerly held
in the ‘great {quare: but it is believed that this practice is abolifhed
throughout the monarchy. Both fexes are handfome, with agreeable
countenance, and wear the Spanith drefs: the ladies are very fond of
mufic, and in moft good houles there is a harpfichord, with which
they amufe themfelyes and the eo without having recourfe to
fcandal, gaming, or cicifbeifm. Their ftockings, fancifully embroi-
dered with gold, difplay the fhape of an elegant leg; and they chiefly
pleafe by a playful and voluptuous air. The religious proceflions are, as
tfual, very nimerous and {plendid.
Cities AND Towns.} Among the cities in the viceroyalties of La
Plata the tirft and chief place is due to Buenos Ayres, though exceeded
in population by Potofi. This capital is fituated on the W. fide of the
great river Parana or La Plata, which gives its name to the viceroyalty.
ot forty-years have elapfed fince it wag regarded as only the fourth
city of the viceryyalty of Peru, the fir rank being afligned to Lima,
the fecond to Cuzco, and the third to Santiago of Chilit. But ten
years ago Buenos. Ayres only yi a3 Lima, and at prefent probably
exceeds that capital. The creation of the new viceroyalty, the rapid
progrefs of commerce and agriculture, ‘and many other advantages, have
greatly increafed the population; and ite pro{perity has become pro-
‘greffive : formerly thete were no country houfes, nor. other fruits than
a kind of peach’ but at prefent there is no perion in eafy.circumftances
who has not a country cottage tet atdony with a variety of fruite, gar-
den plants, and flowere, In general the houfes are not very high, but
‘are convenient, well conftru€ted, and well furnifhed. Both fexes being
dreffed in the Spanifh manner, the fathions change accordingly, as may
be perceived ae far as the town’ of Jujuy 3 while the Spaniards'in Peru
@ Extalia, axvil. 206, .-
+ EAa'la, BK 217. .
| ave
have peculiar
are celebrated
are not fo exp
and elegant.
Till 1747 tl
Ayres, nor th
but in general
to Jujuy or M
be conceived.
given to the p
preferved in la
riety of fith is
attains a rodi;
luxury, for ia
fnow is unknoy
froft, in order
mate may be j
evinces that th
idly attributed.
tember, fogs ar
Pamperos, or {
jurious on acco
times difturb |
numbers have d
furprife, fomet
affault Spaniarc
Buenos Ayr
52° 16' W, fo
1535» it was a
umption in Pa
asa mere ftatior
of a province
and im the prit
ous in the rain
the duft is rat
any edifice tha
regularity of th
houfes of the ri
the apartments.
The cathec
the former, w
pevent has th
half a million o
is. probably no
Mean time the
tended to form
faid to contain
fits of a bitho
fix, and conven
wo hofpitale f
There is alfoa
haed there are
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 68:
have peculiar and hereditary drefles.. The women of Buenos Ayres
are celebrated among the moft beautiful in America; and though they
are not fo expentive in their drefs as thofe of Lima, it is more agreeable
and elegant. .
Till 1747 there was no eftablifhment of couriers or pofts in Buenos ~
Ayres, nor the interior provinces. ‘Traders occafionally fent couriers,
but in general entrufted their letters to paflengers who travelled in carts
to Jujuy or Mendoza, whence the promptitude of the intercourfe may
be conceived. Meat of all kinds abounds in the city, and is fometimes
given to the poor gratis. ‘The water of the river is turbid, but when
preferved in large jars is excellent, event if kept for a longtime. Va-
riety of fith is found in this majeltic river, and that called the pexere
attains a prodigious fize. The want of ice is a deficiency in Spani
luxury, for ia the province of Buenos Ayres, and even of Cordova,
{now is unknown. A new kind of induftry is exerted. in colle&ting hoar
froft, in order to refrefh particular drinks. The falubrity of the cli-
mate may be judged by the catalogue of the births and deaths, which
evinces that the name of Buenos Ayres, or Good Air, has not been
idly attributed. Yet in the months of June and July, Auguft and Sep-
tember, fogs arife from the river, to the:detriment of the lungs. The
Pamperos, or ftrong winds from the deferts called Pampas, are alfo ine
jurious on account of their violence. The Indians ftyled Pampas fome-
times difturb the commerce with the Peruvian provinces; but their
numbers have declined, and being very cowardly, they only attack by
{urprife, fometimes fifty againft one, as.is not uncommon when Indians
affault Spaniards or mulattoes, ;
Buenos Ayres, by the lateft obfervations, is in S. lat. 34° 46’ and in
52° 16’ W. long. from the royal obfervatory at Cadiz. Founded in
1535» it was afterwards abandoned by the fettlers, who paffed to Af-
{umption in Paraguay: but in 1580 Buenos Ayres began to be reftored
asa mere ftation ; and it was not till 1620 that it became the chief town
of a province called Rio de la Plata *. The ftreets are broad and ftrait,
and in the principal there is a pavement, as they are rather incommodi-
ous in the gn igi having little or no declivity, while during drought
the duft is rather troublefome. As ftone is rare, the houfes are built
of brick, the lime being procured from banks of fhells; nor is there
any edifice that deferves the epithet of magnificent; but the agreeable
regularity of the buildings gives it the air of-an Englifh city. The
houfés of the rich have generally a veftibule, and a court furrounded by
the apartments.
The cathedral is in the fquare, being a new ftruéture on the fite of
the former, which. became ruinous in the middle of laft century. The
refent.has three naves, befides feveral chapels ; and in 1798 had coft
fale a million of dollars, and-would coft as much to complete it, which
is. probably now accomplifhed, as the work proceeded with expedition.
Mean time the church of the Jefuits fered as a cathedral, but. is ine
tended to form an univerfity. A college is opened, that ot San Carlos,
faid to contain about 100 ftudents. The ecclefiaftic eftablifhment con-
fits of a bifhop and fome dignitaries; the parifh churches amount to
fix, and convents are numereus, as ufual in Spanifh cities. There are
wo hofpitale for orphan children, one of which receives foundlings,
There is alfo an afylum for women of the town, and in the neighbour.
haed there are feveral hermitages and little chapels. ’
; " @ Eftalla, xxvii. 275.
The
682 SPANISH DOMINIONS
The haven on the E. ean fearcely be fo called, being greatly expofed,
bie Montevideo may be regarded as the fea port of Buenos Eyres
The tide rifes to a confiderable rg sik ‘The chief wall is to the
north of the fquare: two rows of the trees called ombus have been
recently planted, but the {pot is muddy in winter, and dufty in farmer,
On the W. there is a great number of gardens, in which are: culti-
vated many of the European fruits and herbs, and olives are found to
One author ‘was not able to procure an exact eftimate of. the Bopue
lation of this city, which is daily on the increafe, but it is fuppofed to
be about 40,000 fouls, of whom the whites or Spaniards compofe one
half, the other half confifting of negroes, mulattoes, and fome few
i ome from other parts. :
sie Ghee ctiet cities and dase will not demand equal attention, By
the recent account of Helms, Potofi would demand the preference,
having, as he afferts a population of 100,000, while Lima itielf has
only been eftimated at 54,000; but Robertfon had, from the beft
Spanith authorities, affigned only 25,020 to Potofi, and the fame num.
ber is. given by Alcedo, who is however too often antiquated in his
defcriptions. However this be, it may not be improper firft to throw
a glance on the towns ‘ i lmeade ha of Buenos Ayres, from
erials of Evftalla. :
er is celebrated for its harbour, the moft confiderable and
advantageous of this viceroyalty. Struck with the ete Ga
Bruno de Zabella, with fourteen or fifteen families from the i ; of
Palma, one of the Canaries, eftablithed himfelf here in 1731 i ute
which time the population has been gradually on the increafe, Santa
Fé itands on the great river Parana ; Corrientes was founded y 589,
and was at firft greatly_infefted by the Abipons, fo eat fe ecame
neceffary to eftablith a corps of militia in order to reprefs them. It
three conyents, é |
ae hiwts tcean: to the capital is the celebrated city of Potofi,
{uppofed, as already mentioned, to contain 101,000 inhabitants, It
ftands in a diftri& enclofed by the pravians of Porco, being pit
mountainous and cold, and confequently barren; yet there pil eep
and fome vicunas*. The diftrict of Potofi is bathed by t : i
Pilcomayo, which joins the Parana not far above Corrientes, a that
there 18 a natural connexion pe yl this Pe ee it ba
The city of Potofi was founded in 1545, on dager ee-e
name, in a glen formed by arivulet. The mint-was e
aan and has Santina’ tichly to fupply all Euro ays Lead 4
but an account of the commerce and mines is referved for he he ee
of this defcription. The numerous convents naturally, fo a ‘
wealth of the city, a vow of poverty being found very pi emer _
reat riches. ‘There were fanrient curates , wre a ‘rie bared nd i 3
curacies were abolifhed in 1759. Inthen hood
ae medicinal baths, ftyled thole. of Don Diego, | es greatly
efteemed. . In general it is believed warm {prings are foun a”
roximity of minerals, The famous mountain of Potofi may : .
fo confift of one mafs of Ween sia avarice prs ee hal #
y weakened. e coinage of |
eh pg iS As provifions and other articles are brought
Ross all quarters, the barrennefs of the foil ig little perceivable, and,
@ Alcedo in voce,
the
the luxuries ¢
eold and viole
May, June, .
the fouth fide
cumference *,
the refidence .
comptroller g
with that of ]
exchange of j
wrote a celeb;
La Paz, ir
according to ]
bitants 3 and |
tea of Paragu
‘Mendoza, |
was founded i:
Andes. The
gardens, abou
and convents,
half are Span
through the A
of the fame nz
be infefted by
city and provi
other- fettleme
adjoined to the
Chucuito is.
name, otherwif
convenient tow
the foil is fertil
Puno, on th
and populous t
church for the
towns, or rathe
confequence.
five convents a
it is probable t}
of confiderable
Cochabamba,
Santa Cruz ¢
to be regarded
: 3 returning
artly owing ¢
dtabhed to Ae
cattle, which t
which they bri
Salta is celeb
which it is fupy
affembled more
San Miguel
that name, is
agreeable, being
$ Ulloa Memoires
\
IN SOUTH AMERICA.’ 683°
the luxuries of life naturally flock around a mountain of filver. A’
eold and violent wind, called tomahavi, reigns during the months of
May, June, July, and Auguft, The city ftands on an eminence, on
the fouth fide of the mountain, and may be about two leagues in cir.
cumference*. Potofiis by the Spanifh writers ftyled an Imperial City,
the refidence of a corregidor, and of a tribunal of finance, compofed of a
comptroller and treafurer ¢. Its commerce was formerly compared
with that of Lima, but is now far fuperior, and ufed to confit in the
exchange of ingots of filver for the articles imported. Barba, wha —
wrote a celebrated treatife on metallurgy had been a curate at Potofi,
La Paz, in the fame region, is alfo a confiderable city, having,
according to Helms, more than 4000 hearths, or twenty thoufand inha.’
bitants ; and isan elegant and clean town, chiefly trading in the noted’
tea of Paraguay. °
‘Mendoza, formerly in Chili, but joined to the new viceroyalty,
was founded in 1559 in a pleafant fituation, on the eaftern fide of the
Andes. The houfes are handfome, and have generally well watered
gardens, abounding in fruit and pot herbs; there are many churches
and convents, and Alcedo computes the families at 300, of which one-
half are Spaniards and creols. There is here a celebrated paflage
through the Andes for travellers to Peru. Mendoza ftands on a river
of the fame name, to the S. of the volcano of Santiago. It-ufed to
be infefted by the incurfions of the favage tribes of Chili ; and the’
city and province being on the eaftern fide of the Andes, while all the
other: fettlements in Chili are on the weft, they became naturally
adjoined to the new viceroyalty.
Chucuito is an interefting little town on the grand lake of the fame
name, otherwife called Titicaca; it is one of the moft cheerful and
convenient towns in that region ; and though the climate is very cold,
the foil is fertile, and there is abundance of cattle.
Puno, on the weftern fide of the great lake of Titicaca, is a rich
and-populous town, with fome illuftrious families. There is a beautiful
church for the Spaniards, and another for the Indians. The other
towns, or rather villages, in the annexed Peruvian provinces are of little
confequence. Oruro, noted for its mines, has, according to Alcedo,
five convents and four parifh churches; but the mines having declined,
it is probable that a decreafe has taken place. Oropefa was formerly
of confiderable confequence, being the capital of the province of
Cochabamba, formerly ftyled the granary of Peru.
Santa Cruz de la Sierra is the feat of a bifhopric, while it. is rathe
to be regarded as a miffionary ftation, than as a regular town.
~ Qn returning towards the S, the town of Jujuy has rather declined,
partly owing to the litigious {pirit of the inhabitants, a weaknefe
attached to the ancient province of Tucuman: the chief trade is in
cattle, which they fell to the miners of Potofi, befides fome mules
which they bring'to the great fair of Salta t.
- Salta is celebrated for the great fair in February and March, during
which it is fuppofed that in the adjacent valley of Lerma there are
affembled more than,60,000 mules, and 4000 horfes. id
‘ San Miguel of Tucuman, formerly the capital of the province of
that name, is now in that of Salta. The fituation is elevated and
#greeable, being furrounded with fertile fields, but the population does
$ Ulloa Memoires, vol. ti, p. 268, Id, Voyage, i, 521. — $ Eitalla, xxi, 198.
Bega 3 ry "pot
684 SPANISH DOMINIONS
not feem to correfpond with the extent. Some mules are bred, but the
chief traffic is in a kind of carts or cars, which pafs-to Buenos Ayres
and Jujuy, the abundance of wood facilitating this manufacture *,
Cordova, a celebrated town, the capital of a province, and refidence
of a bifhop, is fituated between the river Primero, fo called becaufe it
is the firft of five in the neighbourhood which flow in the fame direction,
and a hill, on a level but fandy foil, fo that the rains {peedily pats,
though the vapours are unwholefome. The city approaches a {quare
form, but the cathedral is irregular from the want o fymmetry in the
owers +. ; wo,
i The he called Affumption in Paraguay, the chief of the province,
was founded in 1 536, and the bifhopric in 1547. Fora confiderable
time it had the preponderance over Buenos Ayres, as mentioned in the
account: of that city. Befides the cathedral there are three parith
churches, and four convents ; bue Alcedo only computes the inhabitants
at 400. In the vicinity is bred abundance of cattle, theep, horfes,
mules; and among the articles of cultivation are wheat, maize, fugar,
tobacco, cotton, yuca, manioc, Jatatas and garden platits. Dobriz.
hoffer fays that the houfes are built of ftone or brick, but only of one
flaor, as are the monatfteries, The ftreets are crooked and impeded
with ftones and wood, while the grafs grows in the chief fquare.
Commerce. ] The interior commerce of this viceroyalty, as already
mentioned, is conducted by the means of covered carts or little waggons
drawn by oxen, and which form caravans in order to be fecure againit
the attacks of the favages. The chief journies are from Buenos Ayres,
to Jujuy, and to Mendoza; after which ftations it is neceflary to have
recourfe to mules, as the country becomes mountainous. The load of
each waggon exceeds 100 arrobas, and is commonly 150, the hire be-
ing from 70 to 150 dollars, but commonly a dollar for each arroba, on
the diftance of Buenos Eyres to Jujuy. This trade fppares many in-
dividuals, and increafes the circulation of money ; and the population
in the provinces of Cordova ap Salta is fuppofed to amount to
2G e even fuppofe 300,000.
pap ie re The rent. of commerce has had, as ufual, a
beneficial effect upon the agriculture. A royal {chedule, in 1791, granted
to Spaniards and foreigners the right of introducing negroes, and
other inftruments of agriculture. Nor is it improbable, in the opinion
ef our author, that this wide and fertile viceroyalty may moe *
a few years not only the granary of the other Spanith colonies, but o
the parent country, by the extreme fertility of the foil, and the ex.
ions adopted. ’ 3 ;
Macalasaneet The uatural hiftory of this grand vice-
royalty may be traced in the recent — of Doubrizheffer and
elms, not to mention the writings of the Jefuits concerning Paraguay,
and the works of Ulloa, which ches relate to the Perevien yoresipose
A few circumttances lefs known to the Engi reader tha -
tracted from the recent publication of Ejtalla, in the order genera y
followed in this work. The grand rivers of Parana, or La a
which gives its name to the viceroyalty, and thefe of Paraguay ee
Uruguay, have been already briefly defcribed in the general account o
* Near St. Miguel of Tucuman there is abundance of prodigious cedars, and the timber
js brought even tu Buenos Ayres, Dob. i. 52.
+ Bitalle, xx, 193, ¢
South
South Americ
diftauce of 11.
Ayres, there is
falt; and at t
that it is diffic
fouthern fides |
more than a |
A fingularity «
fouth, which ;
ftill higher, ar
this and the A
river Flores, —
frefh among th
feafon they are
other. Our ar
mulation is unk
be loft in the |.
The grand k,
from the fhore
fhoals. The I
inflated fkins, |
Incas dedicated
fubje& to” fudd
by the Spania
moftly it woul
among the Inc
when the Span
chain of gold
was 233 yards i
within,
Mountains
chain paffing Ni
garde as a bra
now. But w
fublime and m
obfcure, it is
Mr. Humboldt
with the mo
vinces of the
vk The name Pa
ef his yaguaro, wh
ib. 191, ‘See the
fith in the Parana b
eaftrated.
The terrible ca
by Dobrizhoffer, i.
feen at the diftance
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 689
South America®. To the fouth weft of the ftation of Lujan, at the
diftauce of 113 leagues, and nearly at the fame diftance from Buenos
Ayres, there‘is a lake of fix leagues in circumference, which is eblte
falt; and at the bottom the falt is found in cakes fo hard and thic
that it is difficult to break them with iron tools. On the weftern and
fouthern fides there are carob trees, and a kind of broom, extending for
more than a league, the foil being of fand and chalk, but marfhy +.
A fingularity of this lake is that ali the ftreams that enter it from the
fouth, which is upland, are falt, and thofe from the north, which are
ftill higher, are fweet. Many other falt lakes appear to exift between
this and the Andes of Chili, and others alfo on the eaft towards the
river Flores. It is remarkable, that in this chain of lakes, a few are
frefh among the greater number which are falt : and that in the rainy
feafon they are fo {welled that many of them communicate with each
other. Our author conjeétures that the river Mendoza {t, whofe ter-
miuation is unknown, ‘may probably bring the falt from the Andes, and
be loft in the lakes.
The grand lake of Titicaca is often four to fix fathoms deep not far
from the fhore, and towards the middle forty or fifty, without any
fhoals, The Indians pafs in their balfas, a kind of rafts, fupported by
inflated fkins, from ifle to ifle. On one of the piturefque iflands, tlie
Incas dedicated the firft temple to the fun. This noble lake is however
fubje& to“ fudden winds from the mountains. The fiih are thofe ftyled
by the Spaniards bagres, omantes, fuches, anchovetas, and boquillas,
moftly it would appear of the alpine kind. It is a conftant tradition
among the Indians, that: great treafures were thrown into this lake
when the Spaniards entered the country ; and among others the great
chain of gold made by command of the Inca Huayna Capac, which
bet 3 yards in length, and furrounded fix thoufand men who danced
within.
Mountains oF corpova.] The mountains of Cordova, being a
chain pafling N. and S. on the W. of that province, are by fome re.
rded as a branch of the Andes, and faid to be covered with perpetual
now. But while the orology even of the Andes themfelves, the moft
fublime and magnificent chain of mountains in the world, remains
obfeure, it is no wonder that the branches are negle&ted. By
Mr. Humboldt’s account a chain of mountains unite the Andes
with the mountains of. Paraguay and Brazil, through the pro-
vinces of the Mojos and Chiquitos; fo that this chain muft wind
* The name Parana fignifies coufin of the fea, Dob. i. 188. What is to be thoucht
ef his yaguaro, which he calle a water tiger, and fays that it devours mules and horfes?
ib.191. See the defcription, p. 330. It is dangerous in pafling rivers ; ‘but there is a
he Parana by which fwimmers ase fometimes furprifed to find themfelves completely
The terrible cataract of the Iquafu, four leagues before it join the Parana, is defcribed
by Dobrizhoffer, i. 195. This navigable river falls about thirty yards, and the vapour 1
feen at the diftance of four | . At the diftance of three leagues from the cataract,
the Iquafu is a | inb ’
The mouth the Parana is faid to be fixty leagues in breadth, and Spanith
#3 from Cadiz, mounted far above Affumption, which is four hundred leagues from
ne fea, . , :
The werd Paraguay means the crown, or a kingly ftream. The fabulous lake of
Xaraes has been by Dubrizhoffer.
+ Efalla, xxvii, 325.
_ } This river, according to Alcedo, has piereed « hill, and formed ‘8 natural bridge,
ever which three waggons may pafs abreaft; the infide of the arch being adorned with
pte figures by a uetural inflillation, fuperior in beauty to any thing that est could
MCE, ;
9}
686 SPANISH DOMINIONS
in a femicircular form *. The mountains of Cordova, accordiny ¢g
Helms, fometimes prefent red and green granite, and gneifs, while
the grand chain of the Andes confifts of argillaceous {chiftus. It is not
wholly improbable that if the grand chain, which confifts of three divi:
fions or feparate ranges of mountains, were examined by a Sauffure, of
other eminent inveftigator, a grand line of granite might be obferved,
though the argillaceous fchiftus forms the higheft mountains, as in the
Pyrenees the calcareous ridge greatly exceeds the granite in height ;
while in the other European mountains; and fo far as appears in thofe
ef Afia, the grand elevations are of granite and granitic componnds.
_ Botany.} The botany of thofe provinces of this viceroyalty which
formerly belonged to Peru, may be traced in the Flora Peruana; bit
of the central, fouthern, and eaftern provinces; no formal botany has
yet been publifhed. ‘This deficiency may be in a great degree fupplied
from the work of the induftrious Dobrizhoffer, who has in his firft
volume given a general natural hiftory of Paraguay: In extraéting a
ew notices, the order of the original work fhall be followed;
The tree which bears the quinquina or jefuit’s bark is frequent among
the Chiquitos, who call it pizocs. It is of middling growth, tearing a
round fruit with two kernels, The juice is of a pleafant fell, but
very bitter, and the Indians ufe it for fome complaints arifing from cold,
The farfaparilla is the root of athorny plant, very common on the banks
of the river Uraguay and other ftreams, but the beft is from Honduras;
On the mountains neat the town of Affumption, and on the banks of
fome of the rivers, rhubarb is found, the leaf of the fpecies ending in
a point like thofe of the lily, The true jalap, or wonder of Peru,
abounds in Paraguay.. The mechoacany or white rhubarb, a remedy
iven to children, 1s alfo found, the plant refembling the bryony,
he beautiful tree called faffafras is faid to abound in the northern parts
of Paraguay; the wood is often adulterated with that of the red pine.
The palo fanto and the guayacan, which muft not be confounded, are
natives of thefe provinces. The latter ‘is the taller tree, and the wood
ufed with fuccefs in the gout, and other complaints, under the name of
guayacum.
he algarroba or carrob tree is of great utility, but the fruit differs
in form, fize, and colour from what is commonly fold in Europe, the
tree having been brought from Africa into Spain by the Moors+. The
American carrob deferves European cultivation, as not only a winter
fupply for cattle and mules,: but as affording palatable food and drink
to mankind. The fhell or hufk is broader than that of Spain, with
larger beans or feeds of a brownifh colour, while the pulp is whitifh
and {weet. In Paraguay the thells are 'fometimes a fpan in length, and
as broad as the thumb. Of this valuable tree there are feveral {pecies ;
and it is the bufinefs of the favage women to gather it in the woods,
make bread by pounding it ina mortar, or a wholefome drink by in-
fufing it in cold water, contained in a beeve’s fkin, when, in about
twelve hours, the fermentation commences, and the liquor, at firft acid,
foon becomes {weet and wholefome.
What is called the tea of Paraguay is compofed of the leaves of a
common tree, called by the Guaranis caa, dried by a flow fire ; thie
@ Achainof mountains girds Tucuman, Charcas, Savta Cruz de la Sierra, and Chaco,
extendirg from Cordova towards Potofi ; thence to Santa Cruz, and the lake, or rather
river Mamori, in one continuous ridge, Dob, 193,
Dobrizhaffer, i, 402, who frequently in his work ufes the term Alique graca for the
eatuable fruit of thie tree, by the Germans called the bread of St. John,
troe
tree “loves a
{mell is very
dried, and 3
{weetened *,
ZooLtoey
exports fro
moft elegant
of France. .
fpecies of the
or Jama, the
vicuna andt
called them c.
in Spanifh A
The Ame
the forefts tc
lion, is little
the former is
from Buffon’
from a fmall
hoffer inform
guay (the p
magnitude tc
day before,
that of a larg
anox. Acco
horfes, and
evince the e
the elk, the
there appears
Tucuman, th
a red creit, t
oftrich is alfo
bourhood of I
Pampas. A
tain forefts, a
environs of S:
high roads, n
with others at
ceivable with
of filver. ©
beetle, runs v
obferved dead
of a boiled let
webs are wro
till they are ft
bourers make
colour being t
Mingraror
royaltry, and
as Peruvian |
were all regarc
of 778. f}
of La Plata j
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 689
treeloves a moift foil, and fomewhat refembles the orange. The
{mell is very {weet. The leaf, being gummy, muft not be too much
dried, and as the tafte is fomewhat bitter, the decoétion muft be
f{weetened *.
Zooroey.] The wool of the vicuna and guanaco are among thé
exports from this viceroyalty. The former is worked in Spain into
moft elegant and durable cloth, nor is:it unknown in the manufaCtures
of France. . Naturalifts now allow, that there are no lefs than five
fpecies of thefe animals, which may be called {mall camels, the glama
or Jama, the guanaco, the moromoro or chilihueque of the Chilefe, the
vicuna and the paco or ulpacé. Gmelin in his edition of Linnzus, has
called them camelus glama, buanacus, arcuanus, vicugna, paco, alfo ftyled
in Spanifh America carneros de la tierra, or native fheep.
The American tiger or jaguar is chiefly known in Paraguay, and
the forefts to the north; and the puma, by fome called the American
lion, is little mentioned. The latter is of a reddifh brown colour, while
the former is marked with black fpots upon a yellowifh ground. But
from Buffon’s account of the jaguar, it is evident that he judged only
from a fmall animal, probably fent from French Guiana ; for Dobriz-
hoffer informs us, that as the lions of Africa far exceed thofe of Para-
guay (the pumas) in fize and og fo the African tigers yield in
magnitude to thofe of Paraguay. He faw the fkin of one killed the
day before, which was three ells and two inches in length, or equal to
that of a large ox; but he adds, the body is more flender than that of
anox. According to the fame author, they kill and carry off oxen and
horfes, and he gives fuch fingular inftances of their ‘Areagth as to
evince the error of. Buffon’s theory. Other animals are, the wild cat,
the elk, the ant-bear, a kind of deer, &c. In the great river Maranon,
there appears to be a fpecies of hippopotamus. Inthe Alps, towards
Tucuman, the condor is not unfrequent : it is a kind of vulture, with
a red creit, the body being black, fpotted with white. A f{pecies of
oftrich is alfo fownd in the wide plains of Paraguay, and in the neigh-
bourhood of Buenos Ayres. What is called a partridge abounds in the
Pampas. A ferpent of prodigious fize is fometimes feen in the moun-
tain forefts, and feems to approach the buio of the Orinoco. inthe
environs of San Miguel of ‘T'ucuman may be obferved, in pafling the
high roads, many white threads of various fizes twifted in the trees,
with others at the diftance of fix yards, fo delicate as only to be per
ceivable with the refletion of the fun, when they thine like threads
of filver. On thefe threads a kind of animal, like a very {mall
beetle, runs with great fwiftnefs; while on the large threads may be
obferved dead infects of the form of a common fpider, and the colour
of a boiled lebfter, being the f piders in a ftate of transformation. The
webs are wrought with exquifite art, by all the infects in their turn,
till they are ftrong enough to catch a bird. Of thefe threads the la-
bourers make cords for their hats, which are very elaftic, the natural
colour being that of the balls of the filk-worm,
Mingaatocy.} The mines form a grand object in the new vices
royaltry, and are chiefly in the provinces formerly ftri@ly confidered
as Peruvians for in fact Charcas, Tucuman, and even Buenos Ayres,
were all regarded as dependencies of Peru, before the grand alteration
of 1778. If New Spain be excepted, the upper part of the viceroyalty
of La Plata jultly deferves the appellation given to the viceroyalty,
* Dob, i, 129,
being
688
SPANISH DOMINIONS
being the richeft country in
lobe, and not to {peak of Potofi, the mines of
rid to be innumerable. Lipes, Chichas, Porco, the chain of
rvading Chayanta, Oruro, Paria, Carangas, Sicafica
e faid that all the northern provinces teem with mineral o
while Laricaja and Carabaya are diftinguithed by virgin gold.
wer which has yet been difcovered on the
gold and filver may be
in of Aullagas
; in fhort it may
pulence,
Such abundance of metals is produced in the northern parts of the
viceroyalty of La Plata, that in the mint of Potofi there are annually
coined about 6,000,000 dollars ; and our author. fuppofes that the cons
traband trade is inconfiderable, as the remittances to Spain are found
to correfpond with the produce ; and he adds that all the mines of the
viceroyalty may yield about 16,000,000 dollars; but this account
muft be compared with that of Helms which thall be fubjoined.
Befides gold and filver, copper is found at Arbicoya near Oruro, and
in the diftri€ of Lipes.
Chichas,
The following is the ftate of the mined in the new viceroyalty of
The fame author has given the following ftatement of the whole coi.
in Spanifh America, from the firft day of January, to the laft day
ecember 1790, taken from the official regifter.
of D
‘Sicafica .
Buenos Ayres, as reported by Helms.
NAMES OF PROVINCES.
Tucuman ° me
Mendoza ° *
Atacama ° °
Porco
Carangas ° .
Pacajes or Berenguela = «
Chucuyto a
Paucarcolla, Town Puno
Lampa . °
Montevideo . °
Chichas and Tarija °
Cochabamba °
Lipe Province of Potofi
Laricaja °
Omafuyos -
Azangaro e
Carabaya e °
Total | 30.
Potofi 2 .
Chayanta eicve
Mizque ° -
Paria ° .
i
Gold. Silver.
2 I
I
2 2
2 I
1 2
2
|
2
I
2
I
a|s
I
2
4
4
3
2 2
|
a| 3
|
I
ee
27
Copper
Mines. | rite | Lead.
2 2
I I
i I
1
2
I
1 | g
I t
7 {ala
A rich mine of tin is worked at Guanuni in
the diftri& of Paria; and abundant mines of lead in the province of
Iq
At Mexico,
At Lima,
At Potofi,
At Santiago,
Total
Natura
viceroyalty,
mentioned,
Chaco, about
27° or 28°, a
of native iron
two from E. t
raifing it, it w
appear from
nearly 1334 F
ground for ma
water, nor ha
around. The
the ground, a
gularities ; pi
fine filver, {pe
mulberry colo
the {mell decid
mafs, there ar
The viceroy he
found them ruf
hammered, and
be drawn intd |
tilings and exc
operation was |
cumftances, it
tile iron, and
marks whatever
le& the other e
in other parts,
is commonly in
adds a confider
chryfoprafe hav
verts femiopal i
in the olivine.
blocks of nativ
nickel, are pre
from the firmar
afcertained and
of the earth, t
continents, as i
Near Jujuy,
ace of Eolus,
* the morning wi
—
-IN SOUTH AMERICA. 689
In Gold. In Silver, Total,
At Mexico, 628,044 Piaf. 17,435,644 Piaft. 18,063,688 Piatt,
At Lima, 821,168 45341,071 5,162,239
At Potofi, 299,846 3:983,176 4,283,022
At Santiago, Chili, 721,754 1465132 867,886
Total 2,470,812 25,906,023 28,376,835
Naturav curiositi£és.] Among the natural curiofities of this
viceroyalty, may be named the bridge over the river Mendoza, already
mentioned. Another fingular object is obfervable in the province of
Chaco, about eighty leagues from Santiago del Eftero in the lat. of
27° or 28°, and about thirty leagues from Corrientes. This is a mafs
of native iron, which from N. to S. is about 3% varas in length, and
two from E. to W. having been difcovered in thefe direétions ; and on
raifing it, it was found to be half a vara in thicknefs*, Hence it will
appear from thefe meafures, which yield 156 Spanifh cubic feet, or
nearly 1334 French, that this block will weigh about 114 quintals, The
ground for many leagues in circuit is very level and fandy, and void of
water, nor has any been found upon digging, yet fome trees appear
around, The face of this mafs is open and expofed, on a level with
the ground, and the reft buried. The upper face is full of rifts or irree
gularities ; pieces hewn out with a chiffel, fhew a brilliant colour like
fine filver, fpeckled with fpots, yellow and red, with fome of a fine
mulberry colour; although there be no appearance of bitumen or falt,
the fmell decides the contrary, for a little turnace being put under the
mafs, there arofe a fetid odour which fpread to a confiderable diftance.
The viceroy having received {pecimens, he gave fome to an artifan, who
found them rufty ; placed in the forge they were eafily joined, and were
hammered, and excoriated during the operation; like any other iron, could
be drawn inté wire, &c. and did not lofe fo much as other iron. The
tilings and excoriated {parks were attractable by the magnet, but this
operation was not tried before it was manufatured. From thefe cir-
cumftances, it may fafely be inferred, that this mafs is of pure and duc-
tile iron, and even of a fuperior quality to. many, while it bears no
marks whatever of having been fufed. The learned reader will recol-
le& the other examples of native iron found in Siberia by Pallas, and
in other parts, though rarely, by other mineralogifts. This native iron
is commonly interfperfed with olivine or peridot, a ftone which to filex
adds a confiderabl: portion of magnefia; and the green colour of the
chryfoprafe having been found to be owing to nickel, which thus con-
verts femiopal into that ftone, the prefence of nickel may be fulpected
in the olivine. If this indugtion be juft, the component parts of thefe
blocks of native iron, as joining with that metal filex, magnefia, and
nickel, are precifely the fame with thofe of the ftones which have fallen
from the firmament in various countries, a phenomenon now completely
afcertained and admitted by the moft incredulous; and in the rotation
of the earth, the largeft maffes may naturally be attracted by the wideft
continents, as in Siberia and South America.
Near Jujuy, there is a fingular volcano which might appear the pa+
lace of Eolus, where the winds were imprifoned, for they ruth forth in
* she morning with fuch whirls and duft, that they aftonifh thofe that are
# Eftalla, xxvii, 991,
Yy not
692 SPANISH DOMINIONS
not accuftomed to the phenomenon*, Thefe winds, though they lofe
their violence in proportion to their diftance from their fource, are yet
extremely troublefome, till the traveller pafs the Quiaca, which is the
firft poft of the jurifdiétion of Chichas+. Not far from Cordova, on
the bank: of the river Pucara, at a place where lime is made, Dobriz-
offer affures us, that in a calm and clear night, he has heard noifes re-
fembling the firing of canon at the fiege of a fortrefs; and people who
live in the neighbourhood, affured him that this thunder was heard al-
moft daily from the neighbouring rocks, where the air feems to be fhut
up, and to efcape with violence by {mall apertures. In Cordova itfelf,
it is common to hear in the night a dull found, like that of a wooden
.peftle in a mortar. This melanchloly murmur paffes from ftreet to
ftreet, and is called by the Spaniards the Pifon, which fignifies the
rammer ufed by the paviours : our author, who had obferved this found
for two years, does not doubt that it proceeds from a fubterranean wind,
for the ground on which the town ftands is hollowed and rent with free
quent earthquakes f.
-
CHAPTER II.
VICEROYALTY OF PERU.
Boundaries. — Provinces. — Peruvian Hiftory, Language and Antigui-
tics. — Government of the Viceroyalty.— Population. — Revenues. —
Cities and Towns. — Commerce. — Climate and Seafons. —» Botany. —
Zoology: — Atineralogy.
Be celebrated region is not unfamiliar even to the common reader,
hiftory and romance having diffufed a peculiar glory around the incas;
and the voyages of Ulloa and the I'rench mathematicians, fent to meafure
a degree under the equator, are generally known ; but ae {peaking
thefe voyages were only to Quito, a detached region. Only fome
notices therefore, chiefly relating to the prefent fituation of this in-
terefting country, fhall be feleCted; and the materials fhall be principally
chofen trom the work of Eftalla, which, amounting to forty volumes,
and being written in the Spanith language, will to moft readers prefent
the charm of novelty.
Bounparits.] The limits of the kingdom of Peru were greatly
reftri€ted during the courfe of the laft century, as in 1718, the proe
vinces of Quito in the north, as far as the river Tumbez, were annexed
to the viceroyalty of New Granada, which has an eafy intercourfe with
Europe, by the ferbour of Carthagena, and the intermediate {tation of
Havanna 3 and in 1778, a number of opulent provinces in the fouth of
Peru, were allotted to the new viceroyalty of La Plata §.
Modern Peru therefore extends N. and S. from the river Tumbez to
the chain of Vilcanota, being, by the computation of Eftalla, at
geographical leagues ; but along the coait to the river Loa, the lengt
* Eftalla, xx. 134.
+ Humboldt fays that near the coaft of Paria, in Caracas, or Cumana, there is alfo e
noify voleano of air.
The Hill of Faces among the Guarauis is 2 natural curiofity. Dob, i, 239, it is fo called
becaule the ftones bear a rude refemblauce of the human face.
$ Dobriz. vol. i. 46,
§ Eftalle, xx. 147.
may
thay be 423 tea
of about $0
Yquare.
According t
chain ‘ef Vilca
S. lat. the diffe
that long ftrip
Loa 21° 15', t
miles in the no
ders on that d
Sacramento 3 0
S. E. with the
vince and defart
Chili.
Provinces.
viceroyalty, w
from S.to N.
1 Arica
2 Arequi
3 Canes
4 Pauca
5 Chilqu
6 Chumb;
9 Guanca
8 Aymar.
g Cotaba
10 Cuzio
11 Abanca
12 Calca y
13 Andah
14 Parina
15 Lucana
16 lea
17 Caffrov
18 V1 ilca/b
19 Huanta
20 Angara
a1 Yauyos
A few of th
Truxillo, Tarm
ches; and he h:
called Montana
river Ucaial or t
mountains may
fions and refear
rogrefs of the
Be urther illut
of Father Girva
confiderable ligh
It is to be reg
intendancies, int
in 1784, infead
® Some {mall dift
copy of Le Crus's mi
iN SOUTH AMERICA, Gs
thay be 423 leagues. The irregularity of its breadth offers a medium
ry about 80 leagues, fo that the conténts may be 33,630 leagues
quare.
According to the map of La Cruz, the fouthern extremity of the
chain ‘of Vilcanota being 15°, and the river Tumbez in 3° 30!, both
S. lat. the difference of 11° 30’, will yield 6go geographical miles: but
that long ftrip, called the province of Arica, extending to the river
Loa 21° 15', there is an addition of about 6° 18! ur 395 geogtaphical
miles in the nominal length. On the N. the viceroyaity of Peru bor-
ders on that of New Granada; on the N. E. with the Pampa del
Sacramento 3 on the E. with the favage nations of the Pajonal ; on the
S. E. with the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, which embraces the pros
Gin and defart of Atacama, formerly the boundary between Peru and
vili,
Provinces.] The provinces, or rather diftri&ts of the Peruvian
viceroyalty, which are ftill very numerous, are as follow, proceeding
from S,to N.
1 Arica 22 Canete
2 Arequipa ' 23 Guarobiri
3 Canes and Canches 24 dauja
4 Paucartambo 25 Tarma
5 Chilques 26 Canta
6 Chumbivileas 27 Cheeras
9 Guancavelica 28 Huanuco
8 Aymaraez 29. Caxatambo
g Cotabainba 30 Sania
10 Cuzio gt Huaylas
11 Abancay 32 Conchucos
12 Calca y Lares 33 Pafus
13 Andahuaylas 34 Caxamarquilla
34 Parinacochas 35 Huamachucos
15 Lucanas 36 Truxillo
16 lea 37 Sana
17 Caffrovireyna 38 Caxamarca
18 Vilca/buaman 39 Chachapoyas
19 Huanta 40 Leanas
20 Angaraes 4 Luyay Chiloas
21 Yauyos 42 Piura*.
A few of thefe provinces have been defcribed by our author, a
Truxillo, Tarma, Pivra, Caxatambo, Chachapoyas, Canes and Cans
ches; and he has greatly enlarged on the new miffions to the country
called Montana Real, on the eaftern fide of the Andes, towards the
river Ucaial or true Maranon, and the various paflages by which thefe
mountains may be croffed in that dire@tion. deme idea of thefe mifs
fions and refearches has already been given in tracing the fources and
rogrefs of the grand river Maranon, and this curious fubjeé. will
e further illuftrated in the account of the Native Tribes; the travels
of Father Girval, in 1792, and the following years having thrown @
confiderable light on that obfcure part of A merica.
It is to be regretted, that our author has not given usa lift of the
intendancies, into which the Spanifh colonies in America were divided
in 1784, inftead of the former Correggiumentosy which were found too
® Some {mall diftrifts are omitted, fuch as Collahuus, called Co Halmus in the Englith
copy of La Crus's map, which {warme with errors.
Yya2 minute,
4
692 SPANISH DOMINIONS
minute, wnile the little magiftrates were fubjeét to ignorance-and core
ruption *, The intendancy of Tarma, for. example, comprehends
eight of the above diftriéts. The extreme northern province of Piura
belongs to the intendancy of Truxillo; and borders on the -E. with the
province of Jaen de Bracamoros, which belongs to the viceroyalty of
New Granada; on the N. with Loja, belonging to the prefidency of
Quito; on the S. IE. with Caxamarcas; and on the N. E. with
Guayaquil ¢. - In the vallies of Piura, the temperature is excellent, and
the fky ferene; while the mountainous part towards the Andes is tem-
peftuous, cold, and cloudy. The rains, according to our author,
diminifh at certain periods of fix, eight, or ten years, but the longer
the period, the more abundant is the fall. Melons, water melons,
calabafhes, cotton fhrubs, and a great variety of plants and flowers
decorate this province without cultivation. The river Tumbez, which
bounds it on the N. {prings from the fnowy chain of Loja. The mott
noted fea porc is that of Payta, taken by Anfon in 1741, who dif.
graced his arms by burning the town, becaufe he did not find the
wealth he expeéted. At. Tumbez, landed Pizarro, the future con.
queror of Peru. On the fhore of Piura is found the noted plant
barilla, The old town of Tumbez, now ruined, was founded in 1531
by Pizarro, being the moit ancient fettlement in Peru; and the fitua-
tion of the new town cannot be admired, as the fand of the fea begins
to gain on the ftreets. The chief products are cattle and cotton ; and
a confiderable trade is carried on in cafcarilla.
The moft fouthern inland province of the Peruvian viceroyalty is
that of Canes and Canches, bounded or pervaded by the Apurimac or
genuine Maranon t. In. his account of this province Ettalla gives
an interefting defcription of the Apurimac and Vilcamayo, already
tranfcribed in difcufing the fources of the Maranon. Near its fource
the Vilcamayo is paffed by a natural bridge, the fourth example of the
kind in America. This province not only abounds in cattle and fheep,
but alfo in pacos, which multiply furprifingly in the cold and barren
foil; in the heights and fkirts of the Cordillera there is alfo a great
number of guanacos, vicunas, pacochas, venados a kind of deer,
vifcachos a kind of rabbits, partridges, and quails, and many birds of
prey : the mountains contain gold, filver, copper, load{tone, lead, tin,
and even quickfilver. The name of Canes and Canches is derived from
two tribes who originally held the country, and were conquered by
Roca the fecond inca. There ftill exift the ruins of a temple dedicated
to the idol Viracocha, The language generally fpoken isthe Peruvian
or Quechua; the chief town Siquani contains about 6000 fouls, but
only 92 Spaniards; and the articles of culture are papas, a kind of
potatoe, beans, wheat, barley. This province is governed by a judge,
a delegate of the intendant of Cuzco, The judge feleéts the mita or
Indians for the mines, and names the greater alcalds for each village,
who with the cazics and chiefs of the Indians, elect the ordinary
alcalds and other officers. The miners are judged by a delegate, named
by the royal tribunal of mines at Cuzco. There is a regiment of
dragoons confifting of thirteen companies. The trade is in cattle and
woollen cloths to Cailloma, Arcate, Cayarani; and in the other
mining ftations are fold meat, papas, and «tier articles ; but the
weaving is the moft flourifhing bufinefs. ‘I'he Indians bring wine,
% See the mineralogy, + Efftalla, xxi, 5: + Effalla, xxi, 90.
brandy,
country, In the Q
millaken queltion of
brandy, and
the mines of
thofe:- who b;
as they gene
melancholy,
and his blefi
accompanied
braces and te
labour. It ,
narchy to finc
is perhaps th
Peruvian
provinces may
prefent limits
themfelves,
been matter o
many marks o
nefs of an Afi
been very difti
and their nam
it may not be
t. Manco,
century : decl
he married her
race, received
founded the te
appointed virg
2. Sinchi-R
his dominions
: 3. Lloque-
kingdom, or e
4. Maita C
ereGted fome e
5. Capac Yi
nca-Roes
97° Yahuar-
: 8. nca Rips
vinces$ and t
homage at Cu
9. Inca Ure
10. conn
11, Yupangu
in Chili , ani
About 1450.
12. Lupac
13. Huayna
of Quito, whic
eldeit fon,
14. Lnti-Cuf
ther in the neig
prifoner,
* The old name
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 693
brandy, and cotton from the coaft. Others willingly go to work in
the mines of Condoroma, Arequipa, Condefuyos, and Cailloma; but
thofe:who by the royal ordinance pafs to Potoli are unwilling travellers, .
as they eer? die of afthma. The day of their departure is very
melancholy, and after a folemn mafs by the curate, which they pay,
and his blefling, which is given gratis, they affemble in the +
accompanied by their fathers, relations, and friends; and, amidit em-
braces and tears, depart with their wives and children for their deftined
labour. It would be worthy of the generofity of the Spanifh me-
narchy to find other means of working the mines of Potofi; and this
is perhaps the only cruelty of which it can be accufed.
Peruvian History. ] This brief defcription of the two frontier
provinces may not be uninterefting in a geographical point of view, the
prefent limits of Peru being little underftood, even by geopraphers
themfelves. From what country the ancient Peruvians proceeded has
been matter of confiderable difputation ; but while the Mexicans bore
many marks of innate African cruelty, the Peruvians difplay the mild-
nefs of an Afiatic tribe. The monarchs and ruling people feem to have
been very diftin¢t from the general population. The feries of the incas,
and their names, frequently occurring in books of voyages and hiftories,
it may not be improper to fubjointhem *,
t. Manco, the firtt inca, is fuppofed to have reigned in the twelfth
century : declaring himfelf and his filter, Oello, children of the fun,
he married her, and after many laws and inftitutes to reclaim a favage
race, received from his people the title of Capac or rich in virtue. He
founded the temple of the fun at Cuzco, the capital of his empire, and
appointed virgins of the royal blood to ferve that divinity.
2. Sinchi-Roca, or Roca the Brave, fon of the former. He extended
his dominions about fixty miles to the fouth of Cuzco.
3+ Lloque-Yupangui, who {ubjeéted many tribes, and extended his
kingdom, or empire in many directions.
4. Maita Capac, fon of the former, alfo fubdued feveral diftri&s, and
ereCted fome edifices.
5. Capac Yupanqui, another conqueror,
6. Inca-Roca alfo fubdued feveral little diftri€ts and tribes.
9. YahuareHuacac,
8. Juca Ripac, with an army of 30,000 men, conquered many pro
vinces; and the chief of Tucma or Tucuman is faid to have paid
homage at Cuzco,
9. Inca Urco, depofed after eleven days,
10. Pachacutec {ubdued Jauja, Tarma, and other provinces.
11, Yupangui the third carried his conquetts to the river Mauli
in Chili ; and over the Mojos, far to the E, of the Andes.
About 1450.
12. Lupac 7 upangut, alfo a conqueror,
13. Huayna Capac fubdued as far as Tumbez, nay the kingdom
of Quito, which he left to Atahualpa, and his own fceptre to his
eldeit fon,
14. Inti-Cufi-Hualpa. He fought a bloody battle with his bro.
ther in the neighbourhood of Cuzco, but loft the day, and was made
prifoner,
* The old name of Peru’ is Tahantin, or Tahuantin-Suyu, the latter word implying
country, In the Quechua pelew isa river; and the new name was impofed from fome
miltaken queftion of the rude conquerors. ‘There are fimiliar errors in Congo, &e.
y 3 15. dtahualpa
: \ A
a SPANISH DOMINIONS
15. Mtahbualpa, the ufurper, reigned at the time that Pizarro landed
at ‘T'umbez ; and was made prifoner in a battle with that conquerog
near Caxamarca. He was beheaded in prifon, a punifhment which he
had infli&ted on his brother and legal fovereign.
16. Manco Capac, crowned with permiffion of Pizarro at Cuzco.
Afterwards defeated by the Spaniards, he retired to the mountains,
and is thought to have died about 1553.
17. Sayri Tupac, the luft of the incas, emperors of Peru. He
refigned the fovereignty to Philip II. of Spain, and died a Chriftian,
leaving only one daughter who married Ges de Loyola, a Spanith
knight, from whom defcend the marquifes of Orepefa and Alcanifes,
From this brief recapitulation it may be perceived that the monarchy
ef the incas, extending from the river Tumbez 33° (not to {peak of
the fubjection of Quito,} te the river Mauli, in Chili 35°, that is 31° 3o',
nearly 1900 g, miles, may well deferve the name of an empire; while
the Mexican princes only ruled a country of about one-third of the
extent, and which might be honoured by the title of a kingdom. ‘The
comparative magnificence of the Peruvian monarchs is not therefore
matter of furprize. But a critical examination of the Peruvian hiftory,
and a difcuffion of the materials with which it is coultrudted, might
afford a curious topic for fome enterprizing antiquary, who had vifited
the country ; and the learned are far from being fatisfied with the pro.
duction of Garcilaffo de la Vega.
Among the native nations of America the Peruvians are by far the
moft interefting, having in fome inftances advanced nearer to civilization
than the Mexicans. The glama which may be called a {mall camel, had
been rendered fubfervient to their induftry ; and their buildings ere&ted
of ftone ftill remain, while of the earthen edifices of the Mexicans, even
the ruins have perifhed. The hiftory of the Peruvian monarchs is indeed
vague and unfatisfaCtory : the noted Quipos fomewhat refembling the
ampum of the North Americans, being briet and tranfitory records,
The government of the incas was a kind of theocracy, and the inhabi.
tants revered a divine defcent not claimed by the Mexicans monarchs,
The religion of the Peruvians was that of love and beneftcence ; while
the Mexicans feem, in their cruel rites, to have been wholly influenced
by the fear of malignant deities. Some facrifices of the {mailer animals,
and offerings of fruits and flowers, formed the chief rites of Peruvian
fuperftition. The Mexican monarchy was founded by the {word; the
Peruvian by fuperiority of wifdom : and the captives taken in war were
not immolated, but inftructed.in the arts of civilization. An excellent
writer juftly pronounces, that the Peruvians had advanced far beyond
the Mexicans, both in the neceffary arts of life, and in fuch as
have fome title to the name of elegant *.' Manures and _ irrigation
were not unknown, though a kind of mattoc formed the chief inflru-
nrent of agriculture. Their edifices were fometimes of bricks hardened
in the fun; but others were conftruéed of large ftones, the walls
however never exceeding twelve feet in height. The great roads are
indeed flight and perifhable, when compared with European exertions,
yet become wonderful when eftimated with the other parts of favage
America, Their weapons and ornaments alfo difplayed no {mall degree
ef fkill, particularly in cutting and piercing emeralds, a gem it muft
be confeffed of no great hardnefs. Amidft all thefe laudable qualities,
it is to be regretted, that fuperitition led them to facrifice numerous
® Roberifon, ili, 209,
victims
f
victims on th
followed to
conqueft of J
ee whe
Peruvian mo
other parts of
metals to fatiz
be chiefly cu
“te difcover ix
ancient adva
mountainous
a defcendant
difplayed the
the revolt la
made prifone
city of Cuzco
Lampa, Aza
The langua
and it is {till ¢
converfion of
but when the §
own x is an 4 |
of this langua
variegated st
ment of the Sa
ANTIQUIT
pyramidal tom
ance. A hig
leagues to thi
temple of the
fquare, and wl
adjulted that n
Pelafgian ftyle
of Greece an
Peruvians were
Many ruins are
lodged when tl
a kind of gran:
moveable rings
be confulted fi
the power of t
from Truxillo
tombs has led
watering the
appear leading
in Europe. 1
barrows refem!
{takes was plac
filver, copper,
found in thefe |
women were fo
thence called ti
and reptiles, hi
IN SOUTH AMERICA, 695
f
victims on the death of a chief ; and a favourite monarch was fometimes
followed to the tomb by a thoufand flaughtered fervants. Had the
conqueft of America been effeéted by the Spaniards at a period like the
refent, when European warfare has loft half of its ferocity, the
Benuulan monarchy might have been refpeéted and preferved ; for in the
other parts of South America there is a fuperabundance of the precious
metals to fatiate the ntmoft with of avarice. Whether the ruling people
be chiefly cut off, or it be the mere depreffion of flavery, © “1 impoffible
‘to difcover in the manners of the Peruvian natives any mu.ks of their
ancient advancement. In 1781, there was a grand rebellion in the
mountainous part of Peru, conducted by a man who pretended to be
a defcendant of the incas, and who aflumed that facred title. He
difplayed the ufual rage of the Americans againft the Europeans ; and
the revolt lafted near two years, when the new inca Tupec Amaru was
made prifoner with his family, and they were all quartered alive in the
city of Cuzco. He had conquered the provinces of Quifpicanchi, Tinta,
Lampa, Azangara, Caravaja and Chumbivilias *.
The language of the ruling people in Peru was called the Quechua,
and it is {till cultivated by the Spanifh clergy, as indifpenfable in the
converfion of the natives. The founds, 4, d, f, g, ry) are wanting 5
but when the Spanifh grammarians add the x, and z, they forget that their
own x is an 4 or fa, and their x is equally expreffed by ¢. The grammar
of this language, and it is faid even that.of the Tehuels, is nearly as
variegated and artificial as the Greek, whence our wonder at the retinee
ment of the Sanfcrit may perhaps fuffer confiderable abatement.
Antigquitizs.] While the Mexican antiquities chiefly confit of
pyramidal tombs, the Peruvian are more diverfified and of greater import-
ance. A high road is mentioned faid to pafs for not lefs than 40a
leagues to the northern and fouthern provinces. The ruins of the
temple of the fun at Cuzco are formed of ftones fifteen or fixteen feet
fquare, and which, though of the moft irregular fhapes, are fo exactly
adjulted that no void is perceivable. ‘This is what has been called the
Pelafgian ftyle of building, being found in the moft ancient monuments
of Greece and Italy; and if we judge from this circumftance the
Peruvians were advanced to a confiderable itate of barbaric civilization.
Many ruins are alfo found of the edifices called ¢ambos, where the incas
lodged when they travelled. Bouguer fays that the walls are often of
a kind of granite, and the joints very perfect ; there are fometimes even
moveable rings hewn out of the ftone itfelf. The voyage of Ulloa may
be confulted for other remains, Eftalla has mentioned a monument of
the power of the incas, being the remains of a palace half a league
from Truxillo near the fea, The practice of interring treafure in the
tombs has led to their deftruction; but evidences remain of canals
watering the ground and artiticial meadows. Subterranean paflages
appear leading from the fortrefles, a laft mean of retreat not unknown
in Europe. The tombs, like thofe of other ancient nations, were
barrows refembling natural hillocs; aad in a fpace feuced off with
{takes was placed the body, with various dreffes, little images of gold,
filver, copper, or clay, and various weapons aud uteufils : the treafures
found in thefe tombs have fometimes been immenfe, In thofe of the
women were found round mirrors made of marcafite or compact pyriter,
thence called the mirror of the incas. Figures of quadrupeds, birds,
and reptiles, have alfo been found. But fuch remains are better repree
® Humboldt, Nouy, fj» p. 113. ’
Yy4 fented
696 SPANISH DOMINIONS
fented in prints, than even the moft minute defcription; and it is fur-
prifing that no ingenious Spanifh author has publithed a general colle@ion
of Peruvian antiquities, a work which ould do honour to the monarch
. aud the nation.
SPANISH GOVERNMENT. ] The government of this viceroyalty is
divided like that of the others, into political and ecclefiaftic. By the
new conftitution there are feven intendants, and fifty-two {ub-delegates,
dependent upon them ; and all are fubordinate to the viceroy. The
divifions of the intendancies are only accidentally incicated even by the
moft recent Spanifh authors. The Royal Audience, erected in 1 543
is now ah of a regent, an office created in 1776, eight oidors
or judges, four alcalds of the court and two fifcals, the viceroy being
prefident. It is divided into three chambers, civil caufes being judged
in two by the oidors, while in the third, criminal caufes are decided
by the alcalds of the court. There is alfo a fuperior junta of the royal
treafury, compofed of the viceroy, the regent of the Royal Audience,
the dean of the tribunal of accounts, and other officers. The tribunal
of accounts determines caufes of the.revenue. It is underttood that
each viceroy is to give in to his fucceffor a detailed account of his
adminiftration, and of the condition in which he leaves the country,
He is alfo bound to remain fix months after his demiffion, that law fuits
may be brought againft him, in cafe he have committed any a& of in.
juttice. ;
: Cuurcu.] The archbifhop of Lima, has four fuffragans, the
bifhops of Cuzco, Arequipa, Guamanga, and T'ruxil'o. Befides the
chapters of thefe bifhoprics, there are 557 curates of the royal pre.
fentation. ;
Porutation.] The population of Peru never appears to have been
great: and Bouguer has obferved that the ruins of the ancient villages
- are generally at the diftance of ten leagues from each other. Accord.
ing to Eftalla the population of this viceroyalty, according to a cenfus
very recently taken, amounts to 1,076,122 perfons of all fexes, condi-
tions and denominations, being compofed of the three primary dif.
tinctions, Spaniards, Indians, and negro«s, from the mixture of which
refult various cafts and colours.. The number of towns and villages is
computed at 1460*.
Revenues.] One of the chief fources of revenue is the coinage at
Lima,- which, as has been feen, amounts to more than 5,c00,000 of
pialtres annually. The natural products may yield about 1,500,600;
but while Eftalla fuppofes that the royal treafury receives more than
4,500,000 dollars, there feems fome exaggeration. The article of con *
merce will throw more light on this part of the fubject.
Cities.] The capital city of Lima, by the lateft enumeration pub-
lifhed in the Mercurio Peruano, has a population of 52,627; the monks
and clergy being 1392, the nuns 1585. The Spaniards in general
17,2153 with 3219 Indians, and 8960 negroes, the others being mixed.
This celebrated city has been fo often defcribed that it is unneceflary to
in§it on fo trivial a theme.
The chief commerce of Lima is with Valparaifo, Concepcion, and
Coquimbo in the kingdom of Chili, the ifle of Chiloe; and Arica, Ilo,
and Pifco in the fouth; towards the north with Truxillo, Pacafmayo,
and Payta in the viceroyalty of Peru; with Guayaquil and Panama in
the viceroyalty of New Granada; and with Realejo in Guatemala, and
@ Eftalls, ux, 150,
Acapulco
Acapulco in ]
merchant-friga
port ; amount
460 feamen.
author, but lit
The royal
ducted on the
Lima there is
thefe ufeful ob
tations might d
in 1771. Cod
feltivals ; nor a
The fecond
Cuzco, former
the population
1720.- Liman
the inland metr
and boafting its
majefty of aca
mountains, wat!
large, rich, and
there are befid
four hofpitals,
ing bridge on t
where lived the
taught gramma
fortrefs of the
confiderable art
the incas to tl
fragments of a
moruments of ;
from the emper«
on the north ane
and eaft is a plai
and covered wit
‘and the doors ri
magnificence,
The other ci
three other bif
and Truxillo.
confequence.
cities, but the fi
of 1759. In 1¢
fituting with L
Till the new f
city was goverr
eight other diftr
which confifts «
The revenue of
* The feaport tow
new town or village v
called Bellavifta. T
defend the bay, whic
all the fhips anchor «
IN SOUTH AMERICA, 697
Acapulco in Mexico. This trade is conduéted bj fhips, eleven
merchant-frigates, nineteen packet-boats, and a balandr» or {mel tranf-
port ; amounting in all to 351,500 quintals of tonnage, navigated by
460 feamen. The nature of this trade is minutely ex plained by te
author, but little adapted to the prefent defign *.
The royal univerfity of St. Mark was founded in 1576, and is con-
ducted on the plan of the Spanifh univerfities. In the great {quare of
Lima there is a noble fountain of bronze ; and the city prefents many of
thefe ufeful objects. The theatre is a neat building, but the reprefen-
tations might difplay more tafte. | Coffee-houfes only began to be opened
in 1771. Cock-fighting is a favourite amufement on Sundays and
feftivals ; nor are bull-fights unknown.
The fecond city of the viceroyalty of Peru is, beyond all comparifon
Cuzco, formerly the feat of the Peruvian monarchy. Alcedo eftimates
the population at 26,000, but it fuffered greatly by a peltilence in
1720. - Lima may be called the maritime capital of Peru, and Cuzco
the inland metropolis. Proudly ficuated amidft the furrounding Andes,
and boafting its origin from the firft of the incas, Cuzco ftill retains the
majefty of a capital. . The fituation is unequal, on the fkirts of various
mountains, watered by the little river Guatanay. The cathedral is
large, rich, and handfome, and by many preferred to that of Lima;
there are befides fix parifh churches, and nine convents. There are
four hofpitals, of which one is fupported by the tolls of the neighbour-
ing bridge on the Apurimac. A nunnery now ftands on the fituation
where lived the virgins of the fun. In the college of St. Bernard are
taught grammar, philofophy, and theology. The remains of the
fortrefs of the incas, built of irregular maffes of ftone, joined with
confiderable art ; the fubterranean paflage which led from the palace of
the incas to the fortrefs, of a contrivance fomewhat fingular; the
fragments of a pavement of ftone which led to Lima, are no mean
moruments of antiquity. The municipality obtained great privileges
from the emperor Charles V. In fize Cuzco is nearly equal to Lima ;
on the north and weft are hills forming a femicircle, but in the fouth
and eaft is a plain. Ulloa defcribes the houfes as moftly built of ftone,
and covered with very red tiles, the apartments being well diftributed,
and the doors richly gilded, while the furniture correfponded with this
magnificence, .
Phe other cities or chief towns of the viceroyalty of Peru are the
three other bifhoprics, already mentioned, of Arequipa, Guamanga,
and Truxillo, Arica and Oropefa have declined; nor is Piura of much
confequence. Trruxillo feems to be one of the moft important of thefe
cities, but the fituation is expofed to earthquakes, the lait being that
of 1759. In 1686 Truxillo was fortified againft the buccaneers, con-
ftituting with Lima the only two fortified cities in the viceroyalty.
Till the new fyftem of intendancies was eftablifhed in America this
city was governed bya corregidor, without any authority over the
eight other diftri's. The intendant is the chief of the municipality,
which confifts of two alcalds, twelve regidors, and other officers,
The revenye of the bifhopric in 1788 was computed at 25,000 dollars,
* The feaport town of Callao having been utterly deftroyed by an carthquake in 1747, a
new town or village was immediately founded, at the diftance of a quarter of a league, and
called Bellavifta. There is a fortrefs called San Fernando, with a fufficient garrifon to
defend the bay, which in the S. W. is fenced by a barren idand called San Lorenzo, Here
all the hips anchor about qwo leagues from Lima,
§ , The
658 SPANISH DOMINIONS
The population of the whole diftri is computed at 12,000; that of
the city at gooo. The chief produéts and articles of commierce are
wheat and fugar *.
_ Arequipa was founded by Pizarro in 1536, in the valley of Quilca,
twenty leagues from the Pacific, beneath the mountain Omati covered
with perpetual fnow. The climate is rather dry, benign and healthy ;
and the houfes neatly built of ftone, while the river Chile bathes its
fields and gardens. There is a handfome fountain of bronze in the
great {quare, and an elegant bridge over the river. This city has
repeatedly fuffered from earthquakes, efpecially in 1785, before which .
time the population was computed at 30,000. _ Guamanga was alfo
founded by Pizarro in 1539 in a wide and beautiful plain, watered by
a river, and crowned with perpetual f{pring. The buildings are of
ftone; and thought fuperior to any in Peru; while the gardens,
fquares, and cheerful entrances of the city, decorated with trees, re-
commend a refidence at Guamanga. The chief trade is in leather,
grain, and fruit. In the diftri€&t there is a fountain which, like the
baths of St. Philip in Tufcany, quickly impregnates a mould with a
white and tranfparent ftone. The ftate of the population of thefe two
cities is not given by Alcedo.
Guancavelica was founded in 1572 by the viceroy Don Francifco de
Toledo, fecond fon of the count d’Oropefa, whence he gave it. the
name of the Villa Rica d’Oropefa. It itands in a quebrada or break
of the Andes, and is one of the largeft and richeft cities of the vice.
royalty. The temperature is very cold, and the climate changeable,
as it fometimes rains and freezes on the fame day, with tempetts of
thunder, lightning, and hail. The buildings are moftly of a kind of
tufa, found near a warm {pring in the vicinity. ‘There 1s a dangerous
torrent which is paffed by feveral bridges. A grand mine of quick-
filver in the neighbourhood was difcovered in 1563; it was managed
by acompany of forty, who delivered the quickfilver to the king at a
certain price: but a fire in 1760 deitroyed many of the works, and the
mine is fince in confiderable decay. :
Jauja is only remarkable for fome manufaétures of woollen cloths and
mines of filver.
Lambayeque is in a pleafant and fertile fituation, two leagues from
the fea, and bathed by ariver of the fame name. The high road from
Piura to Lima paffes through this town. Some wine is made in the
vicinity and the poor are occupied in weaving cearfe cotton cloths.
The inhabitants are ellimated at more than 8000.
Caxamarea is a large and beautiful though irregular town, with more
than 12,00 inhabitants, and among them many illuftrious families de-
fcended from the conquerors, The Indians of Caxamarca are reputed
the ‘moft iaduftvious im the viceroyalty. The temperature is benign,
and the foil fertile ; and there are feveral mines in the neighbourhood,
Here Atahualpa the laft inca was _fiain, and a ftone is fill fhewn in the
chapel of the prifon where he died, being formerly the fite of his
palaces Towards the caft are warm baths called the baths of the
neas, a We
Ica is fuppofed to contain about Goco fouls , and is chiefly remarkable
for a manufacture of glafs.
Guanuco or Huanuco was founded in 1539, under the name of Leon
of Guanuco, the firlt inhabitants being thoie who, iu the broils of the
* Eftalia, xx. 325.°
jnto ghe clouds, bein
Pizarros
Pizarros and A
confiderable cit
the royal road «
the fun. The:
Lima. The'ct
querors, are fur
Commerce.
ability and at
Peruano, when
recent ftate of |
minute details t
edition of this '
NATURAL Gc
occafions great |
mountains, exte
divifion into thr
tains themfelves
double ridge of
- rain from the in!
the contrary, ra
between 5° and
Andes, of the 1
clouds, except
when the fummi
to have been car
of paffing this b
accompanied wit
unvifited by rain
fouth, along the
wind which is g
if not fuperior tc
dews throughout
or 600 g. miles ;
Difference of cli
the country, as |
with rains as ¢
attends Panama,
tional proof of
from the gulf of
leagues, rain is
may be faid to h
{prinkling of ath
The high tab
fummits of the
height of 10,00
the low lands are
the rivers, the u
with a perpetua
warmer regions,
however; as Pra
* Eftalla, ax. 209
t The mountains
coatt at Arica, Frezie
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 699
Pizarros and Amagros followed the royal party. It was formerly a
confiderable city, but ig now, according to Alcedo, a mean village on
the royal road of the incas, with ruins of a royal palace and temple of
the fun. The fruits are excellent, and the conferves much efteemed at
Lima. The’church, three convents, and the defcendants of the con.
querors, are funk into great poverty.
Commercg.] ‘The commerce of Peru has been treated with great
ability and at confiderable length, by Lequanda in the Mercurio
Peruano, whence Eftalla has borrowed moft of his information on the
recent ftate of this interefting country *. The fubje& demands fuch
minute details that the curious reader muft be referred to the large
edition of this work.
Naturat GeocrapPHy, &c.] The fingular form of this country
occafions great peculiarities in the climate. The fublime cinéture of
mountains, extended on the weftern fide of South America, occations a
divifion into three parts, of the maritime plains or vallies ; the moun-
tains themfelves; and the high table land or upland plain, between the
double ridge of the Andes‘+. Where theory would expect perpetual
- rain from the influence of the tropical fun, iv the lower part of Peru, on
the contrary, rain is almoft unknown ; nay it id afferted that in the part
between 5° and 15° rain has never been known to fall. The chain of the
Andes, of the medial height of 14,000 feet above the fea, arrefts the
clouds, except during the months of January, February, and March,
when the fummits are covered with {fnow. Thefe clouds are fuppofed
to have been carried by the eaft winds from the Atlantic, but incapable
of paffing this barrier, they diffolve on the mountains in rain and vapours,
_ accompanied with lightning and tremendous thunder. In the provinces
unvifited by rain the wind may be faid to blow conftantly from the
fouth, along the courfe of the Andes, correfponding with our north
wind which is generally dry ; the cold of the antarctic pole being equal
if not fuperior to that of the arctic. Vegetation is fupported by liberal
dews throughout this region, computed at a length of 10° of latitude,
or 600 g. miles; while the breadth may be twelve to fifteen leagues.
Difference of climate depends as much on the elevation or depreflion of
the country, as on zones, or latitude. While Choco is fo inundated
with rains as to be almoft uninhabited, and the fame inconvenience
attends Panama, and many of the provinces of Guatemala, (an addi-
tional proof of the termination of the Andes,) Bouguer obferves that
from the gulf of Guayaquil to the defart of Atacama, a {pace of 400
Jeagues, rain is unknowy; and the houfes at Arica, like thofe at Lima,
may be faid to have no roofs, being only covered with mats, and a light
{prinkling of afhes to abforb the dew of the night.
The high table land, that grand belt ftudded on both fides with the
fummits of the Andes, prefents a more fertile afpect; and from its
height of 10,000 feet above the fea enjoys a different climate. While
the low lands are rather fandy and barren, except along the courfe of
the rivers, the uplands may be faid to enjoy a perpetual {pring united
with a gerpetuil autumn. The ferocious anita and ferpents feek
warmer regions, and do not incommode this earthly. paradife ; which
however, as Providence generally balances advantages, ftands on an
* Eftalla, xx. 209—321,
+The mountains of La Paz are probably the higheft in the Andes. On approaching the:
coait at Arica, Frezier, i, 257, obferved the mowitain of Tacora, rearing its two fummits
jnio he clouds, being neas the road towards La Paz.
’ infidious
= Se ee es iu
SPANISH DOMINIONS
infidi il arch of no great folidity ; while in the extenfive and
lb! As oid beneath Bi ane inftruments of fudden deftruction,
fulphur, fubterranean fires and waters, and all the terrible materials of
eae unkes and volcanos*, ‘The fields are perpetually verdant ; all
the hii wheat in particular, wave in golden harvelts ; and the fruits
of Ricae blufh amidft thofe of the torrid zone. An equal warmth,
about 14° or 15° of the thermometer of Reaumur, diffufes health and
vegetation ; there is a perpetual equinox 3 and the temperature remains
n var! the fame, the feafons being only diftinguifhed by the rains which
fall eek November to May, as in the eaftern foreits that fkirt the
Andes The height of the mountains, it may be conceived, inveits
them with perpetual winter; and the intenfe cold which is felt on the
Paramos or higheft defarts, and which is defcribed as being of a peculiar
kind, may probably in part proceed from a i with Ah el aida :
impr the nitre appearing like a light flour on the ftreets an
bidnveen cescrding to the oblervation of Bouguert ; who has not
however drawn a ftriking inference, which is fubmitted to more expe-
ienced naturalifts.’ May not this extreme cold, arifing from an acci-
dental caufe, affect the inftruments employed and the obfervations, and
have thus led to a conclufion that the Andes are of aN
than they would otherwife be eftimated? As artificial ice ii € pros
duced vt nitre; it is not inconceivable ip vaft mafles of that fubitance
ances of nature.
“TT is ‘ wh : Meta ae immente forefts which clothe the
avilaie plains indicate that the population has always a {canty ;
while theorifts have, in like manner, afcribed an sae Ls herhed bs
5 inavi rfhaded_ w
ancient Germany and Scandinavia, | countries ove iso gdh ae
: ich is a mere contradiGtion in terms, efe for
ehalPpeddliee afped, confifting of acacias, da trees Phi i ta
i i long the ocean ; brooms and fe °
their fantaftic ftems and roots along “mcg abe
igi i ith tall aloes and other fucculent plants.
seaeatte fechot grows to a furprifing fize, and affords a age siny
five ots lighter than the li hteft pine, and yet of yr Son a ; <i oh
ca a
Cedars of two or three kinds, cotton base ai Sed ed i
i i perfect po
other woods, alike precious by their mell, a y : or :
: ! he artizan. The talleft tree is the mari
they affume under the hand of t on sits ceeded il eld
which is ufed for mafts; and of the palm the ela alien
ing li lants, while their broad leaves only
els fenmite, "Mott of the trees fpread their roots along the st
but thofe of the gee often rife into Me a _ sc fix ee hd ase
i i he diftance of feven or
rg By oa tt ? ig fein fi often clothed with para.
from the coaft the trees increafe in fize, are ee
fitical plants, and attached by oer es eviae her
filled with thorny brambles, fometimes rom Y Fag ol
i the firft chain of the Andes, whic
names to peohibi the induitry or even exiftence of man, he is sane
ie furprifed with the new region before defcribed, and finds the face o
t as the climate. a:
yas rest The botany of the Spanifh territories eaft of the Andes
ito ji Ity of New Granada. ‘Though
‘Thi feription chiefly refers to Quito in the viceroyalty
Pe din bel cetown the’ fame, there does not appear to be any active volcuny in the
vicerovalty of Peru.
T ‘Figure de la Terre, Pp: Ixiv. i
isas yet whol
analogy that
refemble thof
genous plants
viana et Chile
fourth part is
g“tors and oc
many of the t
the cocoa-nut
canna, amomy
temperate clin
it is natural tc
known and m
of cinchona, f
ruvian or Jef
tiinber tree, re
leaves and fre:
with in the mc
to the fame uf
and datura arb
hood of Lima,
reciprocal chat
or fix of capt
feveral efculen:
apple, and S,
elleemed. Th
the Andes, an
and green ho
refplendent fal
the fimple nol
origin,
Zootocy.]
La Plata. ‘Tj
Cpwma and jé
OF great fize ar
the French nat
diminutive fize
confuted by wr
Tehuels or Pa
the ancient con
in fize, The
night, while its
A kind of dee
the fkin has be
merce, being fa
refembling foxe
bedionda, beca
a {mell, that th
moft ferocious t
The fejon feems
fugar canes, ‘1
are wings refe
the lakes; and
from deftru&io
another aquatic
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 701
isas yet wholly unknown to European f{cience. it is only therefore from
analogy that we imagine the vegetables of thefe extenlive countries to
refemble thofe which are natives of Guiana and Brazil. For the indi-
genous plants of Peru and Chili, our only authority is the Flora Peru
viana et Chilenfis of Ruis and Pavon, and of this work not more than a
fourth part is as yet publifhed. We know, from the reports of navi-
g:tors and occafional travellers, that the vicinity of the coatt produces
many of the tropical fruits and vegetables, fuch as the cabbage palm,
the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton fhrub, the pine apple, the
canna, amomum, turmeric, plantain, and fugar cane. But in the more
temperate climate of the high plains, and upon the fides of the Andes,
it is natural to expeét plants of a hardier conftitution. Perhaps the beft
known and moft generally interefting of the trees are the feveral {pecies
of cinchona, from two of which, at leaft that valuable medicine the Pe-
ruvian or Jefuits’ bark is procured. The cardana alliodora is a large
tiinber tree, remarkably ‘or the {trong {mell of garlic emitted from the
leaves and frefh woos. A-kind of coffee, the coffea racemofa, is met
with in the mountainous groves of the interior, whofe berries are appiest
to the fame ufe as the cultivated fpecies. The large flowered jeflamine
and datura arborea diffufe their evening fragrance round the neighbour-
hood of Lima, and braided in the hair of the women give and receive a
reciprocal charm. No lefs than twenty-four f{pecies of pepper, and five
or fix of capficum, are reckoned among the Peruvian natives, befides
feveral efculent kinds of folanum, of which the S. lyco-perficon or love-
apple, and S. tuberofum or potatoe, are the beft known and moft
elleemed. The tobacco and jalap abound in the groves at the feet of
the Andes, and many of the ornamental flowers of’ our Englifh gardens
and green houfes, fuch as the fingular and beautiful calceolaria, the
re{plendent falvia longiflora, the graceful tropzolum or nafturtium, and
the fimple nolana proftrata, are indebted to thefe countries for their
origin,
Zoo.ocy.] The zoology of Peru is little different from that of
La Plata. ‘The animals called the American lion and tiger, the cougar
Couma and jaguar of Buffon are not unknown, the latter being often
of great fize and ftrength. The theoretic and fyftematic difpofitions of
the French naturalift have led him to fingular reveries concerning the
diminutive fize of the American animals, which have been abundantly
confuted by writers of more experience and obfervation. And while the
Tehuels or Patagons exceed in ftature and ftrength any inhabitants of
the ancient continents, the quadrupeds will alfo be found rarely to yield
in fize. The mountain cat heute in the forefts, always hunting in the
night, while its eyes thine like fire, and will even attack men unawares.
A kind of deer called venados abounds in the northern provinces, and
the fkin has become, at’ Lumbayeque and Piura, a new article of com-
merce, being found excellent for thoes. There are feveral {mall animals
refembling foxes, and having the fame propenfities; one kind is called
bedionda, becaufe, when chafed, by thaking itfelf it diffufes fo naufeous
a {mell, that the hunter is forced to flee with great trepidation, The
moft ferocious bears are thofe of Piura. The cui is a kind of rabbit.
The ¢ejon feems between a dog and a wolf, and is deftruétive to the
fugar canes. ‘here is a fea fowl, with feathers on the body, while the
bare wings refemble thofe of the bat. The beautiful flamingo frequents
the lakes; and the brilliant plumes of the royal goofe do not fave it
from deftruétion, the fleth being exquifite, as is that of the bandurria,
another aquatic fowl, The camanay iv fold in the markets; and a
author
56% SPANISH DOMINIONS
author adds, that of the bones, which are blueith, there is an equal cons
fumpt. Of the fith the peje /apo is the mott efteemed *.
he animal called the danta or gran befia [tapir]. is known in Jaen
aud Caxamarca, and fomewhat refembles a cow, though feldom larger
than an afs. On his front is a firm horn or bone with which he opens
his way among the underwood. The ant bear is another fingular animal.
The file weaning {pider abounds in Jaen, and Chachapoyas, in which
laft province they are as large as crabs, and the teeth larger than thofe
of a greatratt+. Nor mutt it be forgotten that, in the newly difco.
vered regions of the Montana Real, there is a beautiful bird called the
carbuncle, about half a yard in height, of a moft exquifite plumage,
while the breaft is beautifully fpotted. The Piras, a tribe among whom
it is found, call this grand bird the inocoy ft.
Mineratocy.] Though the mineralogy of the Peruvian viceroyalty
has fuffered a confiderable diminution by the annexation of Potofi and
the fouthern provinces to the viceroyalty of La Plata; yet the amount
of the coinage of Lima, which continues to exceed that of Potofi, may
evince the great opulence that remains. From the extreme province of
Piura in the north, to that of Canes and Canches in the fouth, gold and
filver follow the grand chain of the Andes, In Piura muriate of copper
has been found in Hayabaca; and fixteen leagues from the town of
Piura, at a village called Amatape, is a celebrated mine of pitch or
bitumen, which fupplied the viceroyalty for many years, the quintal
being fold from thirty-five to forty dollars, but another mine having
been difcovered at the point of St. Helena, in the jurifdiction of Guay.
aquil, the former is lefs frequented.
The whole country of Peru may be faid to be one natural curiofity.
The Audes themfelves, the intermediate plain, teem with the moft fub
lime and furprifing objects in nature. It is probable that the rupture
of the genuine Mivancr, falfely called the Ucail, through the Andes,
prefents a fpe€tacle of fingular grandeur; and the newly explored region
called Montana Real has aftonithed the miffionuries by the peculiarity
of its productions §. :
@ Eftalla, xxiii. 40. + Th. xxi. 25, t Ib. 208.
§ Among the natural curiofities of Peru muft not be forgotten a very fingular produe-
tion of a kind of filk-worm. ‘This caterpillar feeds on the pacae, ur aoe inga, a coms
mon tree in Peru. Inftead of forming feparate webs, they unite when they are fatiated
on a broad branch, or the trunk, where they form a regular and beautiful web, of a fire
rtioned to theie number. Having completed this cloth, which has great luftre, and
ch confiftency that it is fcarcely capable of decumpofition, they arrange theinfelves in
files, fo as ta form in the centre a perfe& fquare, where each makes its cocoon of a coarfe
thort filk, and becomes a chryfalis before it tranfmizrate into a moth. Pineda, an eminent
tnineralogift in Peru, fent to the Royal cabinet at Madrid a piece of this natural fiik paper,
about a yard and a half in length, the common fiwm being elliptical,
CHAPTER
Extent.— Pro
nues.— Citi
Mines of E
ment of CAR
Extent. ] ‘i
lat. 12°, being
breadth may |
vinces forming
zucla, Varinas,
in a fupplemen
dates from 171
749. As the
1718, and at n
French and Sp
under the equ
when they {pe
have been juft
around La Paz
even at prefent
fhew their tota
Provinces.
: he ign calle
Owing provinc
1 fe de
2 Loja.
3 Cuenca.
4 Macas.
§ Riobambe
6 Guayaqu
~ 7 Quito.
8 Zacames.
9 Paffos.
10 Barbacoa
tr Popayan.
12 Raposo.
i _Novita.
e province
royalty, and w
is found in the
chocolate and t¢
land of Quito, i
fugar, cotton,
cloths. The te
of Riobamba, f
to have extende
vince on the ea
feafuns, Thov
IN SOUTH AMERICA.
CHAPTER III.
‘
VICEROYALTY ©F NEW GRANADA.
Extent. — Provinces. — Hiflory. — Government. — Populaticn. — Reves
nues.— Cities and Towns. — Commerce. — Natural Geography. —
Mines of Emeralds. — Natural Curiofities. —SurreLEMENT, Govern
ment of CARACAS.
HIS viceroyalt extends from the river Tumbez to
the Caribbean fea; that is from S. lat. 3° 30’ to N.
lat. 12°, being fifteen degrees and a half, or 930 g. miles. the medial
breadth may be affumed at four degrees, or 240 g. miles, The pro-
vinces forming the government of Caracas, namely Maracaibo, Vene-
zucla, Varinas, Cumana, and Spanifh Guiana, thall be briefly defcribed
ina fupplement to this chapter. This grand viceroyalty, though it
dates from 1718, was, after a long fuppreffion, only finally eftablifhed in
1740. Asthe kingdom of Quito was annexed to this viceroyalty in
1718, and at no period formed a part of Peru, it is evident, that the
French and Spanith aftronomers, who went in 1735 to meafure a degree
under the equator, have fallen into a fingular miftake in geo raphys
when they {peak of their voyages to Peru: and the term would only
have been juft if they had vifited the high table land and the fummits
around La Paz, indicated by Helms as the higheft in the Andes. But
even at prefent the molt eminent aftronomers and naturalifts, too often
fhew their total unacquaintance with the firft principles of geography.
Provinces.] The grand and opulent viceroyalty of New Granada,
“fomcetimes called from the capital that of Santa Fé, contains the fole
lowing ere :
I Ja
Extent. ]
en de Bracamoros. 14 Antioquia.
2 Loa. 15 Sania Fé.
3 Cuenca. 16 San Juan de los Llanos.
4 Macas. 17 Merida.
§ Riobamba. 18 Santa Marta.
6 Guayaquil. 19 Carthagena.
Rs z Quito. 20 Zinu.
Tacames. 21 Choco.
9 Paffos. The Tierra Firmé, comprifing
10 Barbacoas. three diftrits.
tr Popayan. 22 Darien.
12 Raposo. 23 Panama, or Tierra Firmé proper.
i _Novita. 24 Veragua.
he province of Jaen de Bracamoros is the moft fouthern of the vices
royalty, and was fubdued by order of Pizarro about 1540. Some gold
is found in the mountains, while the plains produce cotton, sudelinel
chocolate and tobacco. The diftrict of Cuenca, fituated on the table
land of Quito, is of benign temperature, producing abundance of cattle,
fugar, cotton, and grain, and has confiderable manufactures of cotton
cloths. The terrible earthquake of 1797, which totally ruined the city
of Riobamba, fo that of yooo fouls only about 400 efcaped, feems not
to have extended fo far fouth as Cuenca. Macas is a confiderable pro-
vince on the eaftern fide of the Andes, whence the difference of its
feafuns. Though within two degrees S. lat. of the equator, the ee
a egins
hod SPANISH DOMINIONS
begins in April, and lafts till September, being the feafon of forin
the table land. The climate ie warm and ret the chief i
tobacco, with fome fugar and cotton; and the cinnamon is faid to excel
that of Quixos on the north. Guayaquil is a celebrated commercial
province: and the {cientific reader is familiar with Quito, the fcene of
grand aftronomical obfervations. The central provinces will be fuffi-
ciently illuftrated in the general defcription. That of San Juan de los
Lianos forms a confiderable excrefcence to the eaft, if extended as far as
the Orinoco; but as the capital town is on the weftern fkirts, the ex-
tenfion given by La Cruz feems very arbitrary, there being no Spanith
fettlements in that direction, Of the extreme provinces on the north,
Veragua, though politically annexed to Tierra Firmé, geographically
belongs to North America, as allowed by all the Spanith authors. The
name of Tierra Firmé Proper, given to Panama, is a term adopted for
the narroweft part of the American ifthmus, to denote that, however
narrow, it was firm land, or belonged to the continent: or rather becaufe
the name was applied indifferently to this and the adjacent province of
Veragua, affigned as a dukedom to Colan*, and were difcovered by that
reat man to be certainly continental, wlien he explored the harbour of
Portobello, on his fourth voyage, 1502. The province of Darien is
extended on both fides of the gulf fo called; and from the proximity
of the city of Panama, and a confiderable coait on that bay, reaches as
far as the diftri€t of Zinu, with a length of fhore on the Caribbean fea.
The ruins of New Edinburgh are marked by La Cruz confiderably to
the welt of the gulf of Darien, a feeble memorial of the Scottith fettle.
ment ¢. This province, the largeft of thofe in the Tierra Firmé, is
about 260 B. miles in length, by about 80 miles in medial breadth: but
is fingularly unhealthy on account of the perpetual rains, and Porto.
bello, though an advantageous fituation, is nearly ruined ; nor have the
Spaniards, though ‘ready to avail themfelves of advantages, been able to
form any eftablifhments cither on the gulf of Darien on the Caribbean
fea, or that of San Miguel on the Pacific. On the contrary, all the
{tations have been oblized to be withdrawn, except a little fort which
proteéts the gold mine of Cana, on the frontiers of Choco ; and the little
gatrifon which comes from Panama, is changed every month. The
only produéts were fome cotton and tobacco. The favages of Darien
are fingularly wild and ferocious, In 1786 the viceroy of New Granada
fent an expedicion againft them, but the Spanifh troops could not bear
the climate. The Indians are fuppofed to amount to 30,coo fouls,
without chiefs, and acknowledging no authority, fo that it is impoffible
even to form a lafting treaty.
History, &c.] The ample provinces which form this viceroyalty
were chiefly difcovered by Quefeda, and the kingdom of New Granada
was at firft governed by the Royal Audience, founded in 15473 and by
its prefident the captain-gencral. This arrangement was changed in
1718, when the viceroyalty was erected ; but it was fuppreffed in 1724,
and only finally eftablihed in 1740. When the conquerors entered
there were elective princes in Bogota and Tunja, the former being
ftyled zipa, the latter zagui or fachem; and the country was more po-
* ‘The ufe of the Latin term Columius fometimes even beewmes ridiculous. Dr. Ro-
bertfon has Don Diego and Don Hernando Columtus, thus uniting Spavith and Latin,
He might as we'l have faid Sir Francis Drakixs. This affe@aticn even goes fo far, that a
recent geographer has put Ve/pufius Americanus for Amerigo Vefpucci !
t ‘The Puerto Kfcondido is alfo called E/fioces s and there is a cape called Caledonia.
pulous
pulous than t
population is
royalty one
that of the c
the capital, a
Royal Audie
criminal cafe:
Indians, and
Royal Audie:
and Portobell
Antioquia, C}
There is alfo ¢
who rules the
Granada. Bu
bifhopric, four
In 1783 the ar
and which pro
miffions in the
Cafanari, with
lower Orinoco,
belong to the g
OPULATIO
been precifely ¢
fcanty than tha
Quito, Alcedo
not to mention
far from being i
the ideas conce
the general. pop
that rather mo
royalty.
Revenves,
obfcurity. By
Santa
Popa
being not more
little more than
will be 226,000
of the governmd
article of comm:
. The fate of
not been illuftrat
difficult in fuch
or fix thoufand.
Ciriss.)
Bogota, in a fit
at the diftance o
dalena, It was
at a confiderable
Which paffes no
Magdalena and
the heart of thet
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 905
pulous than the generality of the native ftates. At prefent the want of
population is regretted, as hands alone are wanting to render this vice-
royalty one of the richeft in America, The government is fimilar to
that of the other viceroyalties; with a Royal Audience at Santa Fé
the capital, a tribunal of accompts, a treafury, and royal mint. The
Royal Audience is not divided, but fits in the fame hall for civil and
criminal cafes; there being five judges, a fifcal, a protector of the
Indians, and other officers. ‘The governments comprehended in the
Royal Audience, are Carthagena, paid Santa Marta, Maracaibo,
and Portobello, with the diftri@ of the river Hacha: in the interior are
Antioquia, Choco, Veragua, Mariquita, Giren, Neiva, and the Llanos.
There is alfo a Royal Audience at Quito; and a governor and prefident,
who rules the fouthern provinces in fubordination to the viceroy of New
Granada. But Quito remains a bifhopric, while Santa Fé is an arche
bifhopric, founded in 1562, with Popayan and Carthagena.as fuffragans,
In 1783 the archbifhop was named viceroy, an example of great novelty,
and which proved little beneficial to the country. ‘There are alfo feveral
miffions in the country called Los Llanos, and on the Apuri, Meta, and
Cafanari, with fome little villages or ftations. Thofe on the upper and
lower Orinoco, and river Negro, affigned to the Capuchins in 1769,
belong to the government of Caracas.
Porutation.] The population of this viceroyalty has no where
been precifely eftimated, but is infinuated, as already feen, te be more
fcanty than that of the others. In his defcription of the kingdom of
Quito, Alcedo has faid'that it contains 552,800 catholic inhabitants,
not to mention the incredible number of favages; but his accuracy is
far from being infallible, and he often copies ancient accounts, in which
the ideas concerning population are extremely erroneous. Yet while
the general. population of Caracas amounts to 728,000, it is probable
that ne more than one million may be allowed for that of this vice«
Revenves.] The revenues yielded by this province are alfo left in
obicurity. By the account of Eftalla, there is annually coined at
Santa Fé to the valueof - 1,200,000 dollars.
Popayan = +¢© = = 1,000,000
2)200,000
being not more than one half of the produ& of the mint of Potofi, an
little more than one-third of that at Lima. Of this the king’s tenth
will be 220,000 pounds, which is probably confumed in the expences
of the government. Further lights on the revenue will arife from the
article of commerce,
. The ftate of the military force in the viceroyalty of Santa Fé has
not been illuftrated, but it is probably inconfiderable ; and it would be
difficult in fuch diftant provinces to aggregate an effective force of five
or fix thoufand,
Citizs.) The capital is Santa Fé de Bogota, or as often ftyled
Bogota, in a fituation fufficiently central, near the river Funza, which
at the diftance of thirty-five Britith miles, falls into the great river Mage
dalena, It was founded in 1538 by Quefada the conqueror. Though
at a confiderable diftance to the eaft of-the grand chain of the Andes,
which pafles north to the province of Carthagena, between the rivers
joy cunt and Cauca; and though only four degrees from the equator, in
the heart of the torrid zone of the greene 3 the climate is a '
z rather
706 SPANISH DOMINIONS
rather cold, It ftands in a beautiful and fpacious plain called Alcarazes,
and the foil is fufficiently fertile, being protected by another high ridge
of mountains on the eaft, branching of towards the province of Santa
Marta. It is a large and handfome city, the ftreets being broad and
well laid out. There are four fquares and five bridges over two little
rivulets called San Francifco and San Auguftin, whofe clear, frefh, and
healthy waters {pring from the eaftern mountains: and running weft
bathe the city and its plain, which is about twenty leagues in length,
and eleven in breadth, till they join the Funza, which paffes at the dif.
tance of a quarter of a league, and is alfo called the river of Bogota *,
The heat of the latitude being tempered by the fituation, all the year
may be called a perpetual {pring, with fuch abundance of produce that
there are two harveits ; that called yearly is fown in the end of February,
and gathered in July ; while the balf-yearly is fown. in September and
athered in January. The ufual wind is the fouth, here called ubague,
fom the name of a village on « mountain in that fituation ; and though
on the north of the equator it is fubtile and cold, like the winds from
that quarter in South America; while on the contrary, the north wind
is cloudy, humid and tempeftuous f.
In the neighbourhood of this capital is the celebrated cataract called
Tequendama, where the river Bogota or Funza falls from a prodi-
gious height, and of which a defcription is referved for the natural
curiofities. ;
Before proceeding to the other principal cities, it may not be impro-
per to give fome idea of a few central towns at no great diftance from
the capital ; and which from their pofition are lefs vifited by travellers and
lefs known to the general reader. Such are, towards the eaft of Bogota,
Tunja, Teca, Medina; on the fouth, San Juan de los Llanos, Neiva ;
and towards the weft, Tocaima, Ibague, Mariquita, and Antioquia.
Tocaima, in the immediate proximity of the capital, was founded
' in 1544, at fome diftance from the river Pati, (being the fame, which
nearer its fource is called the Bogotat,) not far from its confluence
with the river Magdalena, The fituation is bad, expofed to great
heats and numerous venomous creatures $ nay, it is even deftitute of
water, though La Cruz have placed it at the confluence of the rivers
Magdalena and Pati. But the diftri& is extremely fertile in cacao,
tobacco, fugar, maize, yucas,. plantains, potatoes, &c. and the fith are
abundant in the rivers of Bogota and Fufagafuga, though there be
many alligators. The inhabitants, about 700, are moftly poor. “There
are mines of excellent copper,. which are not worked.
Tunja, founded in 1539, was formerly an opulent town, but has,
now declined, the inhabitants not exceeding 400. The edifices bear is
marks of former fplendour, and the parifh church might well ferve for
acathedral, There are three convents, which a very ufefully be
converted into manufaétories. ‘Toca is in a cold, but healthy climate,
fituated in a beautiful plain, producing wheat and maize, and there are
manufactures of woollen ake the inhabitants about 200, half being
Indians. It was formerly the refidence of the fourth eleCtor of the
zagui, or king of Tunja. Medina was founded in 1670, in a warm
# Efftalla, xnii.279, Coletiin voce, ;
} Eftalla obferves that the fireets are twelve veras or yards in breadth; and the city is
in length 25 manzanas or quadras, and twelve in breadth, The quadra he often ufes
in de’ ribing the fize‘of cities, yet I cannot find an explanation, Ulloa, i, 291, fays that
the quadra is commonly 100 yards, the general diftance between the corner of one frees
end enother in America; hut that it is a vague meafure,
Mitalla, xxiii. 52,
’ — climate,
climate, abor
In the neigh
ufed by the n
San Juan di
called, confit
dred leagues,
brated for golc
fifty. Neiva
was rebuilt in
foil is fertile ;
population be:
. people of cok
one half are |]
celebrated for
the weft thofe
thofe of Hery
filver mines of
mingled with t!
ormerly opuler
of mines in gen
feldom accuftor
queror of New
been transferred
Antioquia is |
the rich mines ,
been explained,
that the mines
feems to be fo
management of
But there are
Granada and its!
by ileado to ¢
creois, peo le o
fix with the title
of the military
courteous, libe
the Indians are c
temperature bej
Lhsady pee this ad
that of 1 wat
blithed Pas
been defcribed b
given a plan, it 1
he upland pl;
volcanoes, and t
tioned, and freq
fourth day of F
morning, the mof
fince the conqueft
fubterraneous th
* Te appears from t
aod Lima
Government ought to j
tf Sees letter from
P 248 ~~ 954,
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 407
climate, abounding with wild cacao trees, maize, yucas, plantains.
In the neighbourhood there is a mine of black falt, in a hard rock,
ufed by the neighbouring villages to give to their cattle to lick.
San Juan de los Llanos is the capital of a large nominal province fo
called, confifting of prodigious plains, extending for two or three hun-
dred leagues. ‘The town was founded in 1555, and was formerly cele-
brated for gold mines now declined ; and the inhabitants f{carcely exceed
fifty. Neiva was founded in 1550, but being deftroyed by the Indians,
was rebuilt in 1612, on the banks of the great river Magdalena. The
foil is fertile ; there is abundance of cattle, and fome gold mines; the
population being about 2009, of » hom the greater part confifts of
. people of colour. Ibague contain about 400 inhabitants, of whom
one half are Indians. Mariquita is called a city, and was formerly
celebrated for the rich mines of gold in the vicinity ; there being on
the weft thofe of Bocaneme, and San Juan de Cordova, bordering on
thofe of Hervi, Malpafo, Guarino and Puano; and on the eaft, the
filver mines of St. Anna, Lajas and Frias; the filver, however, being’
mingled with the pureft gold, but of difficult feparation. This city,
formerly opulent, is reduced to 300 inhabitants; a great difadvantage
of mines in general being their failure, while thofe engaged in them are
feldom accuftomed to other branches of induftry. Quefada, the con-
queror of New Granada, died at Mariquita in 1597, but his body has
been transferred to the cathedral of Santa Fé.
Antioquia is the capital of a province fo called, highly celebrated for
the rich mines of gold but its prefent ftate and population have not
been explained. This rapid glance on the interior provinces will fhew,
that the mines have not much benefited this viceroyalty; and there
feems to be fome peculiar defect either in the localities, or in the
management of this part of the Spanifh dominions*.
But there are feveral important cities in various quarters of New
Granada and its dependencies. The celebrated city of Quito, is faid
by Alcedo to contain not lefs than 58,000 inhabitants, Spaniards,
creols, people of colour, and Indians ; there being among the former
fix with the title of marquis, one with that of count, and many knights
of the military orders.. The creols of Quito are docile, humane,
courteous, liberal, hofpitable, and of confiderable capacity. Even
the Indians are celebrated for their fill in painting and fculpture. The
temperature being uniform, the fame clothin is worn throughout the
year; but this advantage is balanced by the frequent earthquakes, and
that of 1775 was very deftructive. A body of militia has been efta-
blifhed fince the popular tumult in 1765. ‘This celebrated city having
been defcribed by the French mathematicians, and by Ulloa, who has
given a plan, it 1s unneceflary to enlarge on a trivial topic.
The upland plain to the fouth of this city, crowned with numerous
volcanoes, and the high mountain of Catopacfi, has been already men-
tioned, and frequently defcribed as a terreftrial paradife. On the
fourth day of February 1797, a quarter before eight o’clock in the
morning, the moft terrible earthquake commenced that had been known
fince the conqueft +. At Quito little damage was fuftained, but the
fubterraneous thunder, and the fhocks repeated every’ fix hours,
* It appears from the obfervations of Lequanda, that all the cities and {towns between
Carthagena aod Lima have declined fince the.trade by the galleons was abandoned. The
government ought to invigorate them by affiftance,
> Seee letter from Quito, dated 20th 1797, publithed by Efalle, vol. xiii.
P 248 — 954,
223 _ occafioned
408
occafioned yet
the town.
onl
faffered greatly.
el
elicate, an
SPANISH DOMINIONS
) afioned unceafing horrqrs and difmay. On the fifth, in the evening
fe va known that Latacunga, and all the hamlets ini
i utterly deftroyed, not one ftone remaining yee OD a
pine rifhed, and the ftench of the dead bodies in eed the ass
ee ae Ne: Ambato many mountains {plit, and by their fudden fa
bot Wile reater deftru€tion among the human race,
ith all its people, was buried in one inftant, by a cliff which fell on
oe elileo was overwhelmed by a ftream of water and mud
the circumjacent lands were all tranfpofed; and the deadly filence de.
clared the general ruin.
ts corregiamentoy
another, Many
uero,
The elegant town of Riobamba became one heap of ruins and defoe-
: i d; for the peak of Sicalpa falling on
lation, an pig een eat al which pafs by it, formed a lake,
ce hibit the ruins were not vifible. Of nine thoufand inhabitants
0
about four hundred efcaped. Alaufi and Guaranda have alfo
Popayan, founde
uenca, Loja, Jaen,
hat time Pie Morte hocks. do not feem to have ex.
nd tebe The caufe feems to have proceeded from the volcano
aol a. as the tremendous fubterraneous thunders all proceeded
deeeatttat Hines and the greateft ruin was in its vicinity : towards
Pghoertiy earthquake was faintly perceived at Pafto.
and Guayaquil,
in 1536, on a delicious plain, is -an ancient
ifhop of Bogota. The whole inhabj.
oes ep 2 haar OTE town iin the form of a {quare,
tants do ee Pages and handfome buildings. Though rain and 2
with ee aa hate may be faid to be a perpetual jering. a‘ e
be not un ee gr Tune, July, and Auguft, when the fouth i X a
feces tik Bony mountains, and high defart of Purafi, diftant half a
ro
’g journey. Among abundance of fruits, the chirimoya is the moft
8 journey. é
st ie welg
bourhood is a height cover at ee ee
Me fi ie tick there eer ree Widen 3 the great river Cauca,
ete Ss ak i id, though not far from its fource, paffes at
siften “fF pre of a league ; and in 1768 a bridge of one arc
ct oad an a narrow part of the river.
meen are of noted integrity.
hs ten or twelve pounds. In the neigh. -
with trees, called the M, becaufe it has
uayaquil is another confiderable citys
: founded in 1532 5 1 t
sett idan es ef f the fame name. There is an unhealthy
soe ie cy ‘eataisy, wate infects bs ea’ Rita pe noth La
sad i fcape from juftice ; fo
CP sticoashs ty pee htigi ag advifeable on all accounts,
)
The inhabitants of
in the fouthern part of this
t afterwards transferred to its
On advancing to the north of this viceroyalty, the towns of Panama
ici i he feat of a Royal
ft folicit attention. Panama was t
o sg a in 17523 and the fire in 2 ong bad Ye
rs ms commerce, have reduced this city to a miférable fitu 5
e
The dangers of the road between Portobello and Panama, occafioned
* The. Tun
+ Eiltahe, xaii,.310,
ipi ontinual rains, horrible forms,
ay sceeus vd rand uhove the tafiste number of "yenomous ope
pn, oe heceenslaa 3 yet the mulattoes frequent it much sg i
and ion mat the paflage as a kind of amufement +. Some hu
gua.of other writers, between Latacunga and Riobambe, Pafto is at
the diftance of about 200 g. miles,
found, .
found, where
to clean the f
commonly oc
its fall by the
terrible confla
villages in its
being received
eru common!
excellent woo
cedar, with m:
maintains itfel!
and trifles bys
it is rather the
the garrifon, y
gold is found j
pearl fifhery is |
and eafy, and 1
while in the A:
have led to the
querors of Me:
The north pol
vifible, though
arifes marked w
Portobello,
time of the gal
that mode of ¢¢
towns between ¢
fickly, fince a p
Carthagena, «
part of the have
‘s of the wa
might have a
the latter ; bit
new works of fj
alfo feverely felt
landed the ‘provi
and other places
new houfes being
he gloomy cat
the decorations
Prevalent in com
tranated to Qui
ments, Since
fiderable progre
The mulatto w
wear a cotton ve
diftinguithed by t
and thoes, Mufi
fong are heard a:
anta Marta w
by two forts, b
moftly of wood,
Quefada, the con
¢ Efal
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 409
found, where they fleep on ftraw, and the leaves of trees, taking care
to clean the floor and {top up all paffages for the {fnakes, The journey
commonly occupies three days. Panatna is {till a ftrong city, but after
its fall by the lofs of the galeons, was almoft completely ruined by a
terrible conflagration in 1784. Its only remaining trade is with the
villages in its jurifdi€tion, and with the province of Veragua, the goods
being received by Portobello, moftly from Carthagena, the veffels from
Peru commonly return empty. The neighbouring mountains produce
excellent wood, efpecially the moft efteemed mahogany (caoba), and
cedar, with many precious balfams. The f{pirit of trade ridiculoufly
maintains itfelf, even the chief inhabitants of both fexes felling baubles
and trifles by means of their flaves ; and they call this commerce, while
it is rather the game of commerce. The royal cheft cannot even pay
the garrifon, which is now defrayed from Carthagena. Some excellent
gold is found in the mines, or rather /avaderos of Santa Rita, but the
pearl fifhery is almoft abandoned. The voyage to Guayaquil is fhort
and eafy, and the paffage of the line rather accompanied with calms,
while in the Atlantic it is efteemed dangerous. This circumftance may
have led to the name of the Pacific Ocean, given by the Spanifh con-
querors of Mexico and Peru, before Magalhaens had felt its tempefts.
~The north pole and conftellation of the Leffler Bear foon become in-
vifible, though the needle point towards them ; and the fouthern pole
arifes marked with four bright ftars in the thape of a crofs,
Portobello, formerly celebrated, has alfo declined, though in the
time of the galeons a rich and populous city. The dereliétion of
that mode of commerce has alfo'greatly impoverifhed all the cities and
towns between Carthagena and Lima. Portobello however is not fo
fickly, fince a paflage was cut through a hill to admit the air *.
Carthagena, once fo celebrated, has alfo greatly declined. That
part of the haven called Boca Grande feems gradually to widen by the
efflux of the water, which enters by the Boca Chica, fo that an enemy
might have approached without encountering the terrible fortreffes on
the latter ; but in the year 1777, this inconvenience was prevented by
new works of furprifing fize and folidity. The want of a quay was
alfo feverely felt, till one was conftruéted by an individual, where are
landed the provifions brought from Lorica, the rivers Zinu, Magdalena,
and other places. The city has alfo been increafed and adorned, the
new houfes being of elegant and folid architeCture, and neatly furnifhed,
The gloomy cathedral has been enlivened by enlarged windows; but
the decorations are ill difpofed, and thew the want of tafte generally
prevalent in commercial towns, The bifhop Perez who, in 1793, was
tranflated to Quito, fhewed however confiderable fpirit in the improve-
ments, Since the freedom of commerce, luxury has made a con-
fiderable progrefs in Carthagena, and European fafhions prevail +.
The mulatto women, and wives of artifans, inftead of the mantilla,
wear a cotton veil ftriped with various colours ; while the ladies are
diftinguifhed by the finenefs of their drefs, efpecially of their ftockings
and fhoes. Miufic: and dancing alfo prevail; and the harpficord and
fong are heard as in the moft civilized cities of Europe,
anta Marta was founded in 1 5569 and has a good haven defended
by two forts, but has confiderably declined, the houfes being now
moftly of wood, covered with ftraw. This was the place of arms of
Quefada, the conqueror of New Granada; and was reduced to afhes
© Eftalla, xiii, 2476 + Tb, xxii. 904,
Z2%3 in 1596
710 SPANISH DOMINIONS
ii by Sir Francis Drake. Piedrahita, who has written a hiftory
Ff ene ueft cf New Granada, was bifhop of this city. _The port
is large aad convenient, protected by lofty ridges, and has in front a
round hill, which defends the city on the fide of the fnowy mountains,
at the diftance of three leagues. Thefe mountains, clothed with pers
petual fnow, may be regarded as the termination of the main chain of
the Andes, which paffes, accompanied with its ufual mineral opulence,
between the rivers of Magdalena and Cauca, as already explained.
Commerces.] It has already been feen that the commerce of this
viceroyalty has fuffered by the fuppreffion of the galeons, and has
not yet even refumed its vitality, though encouraged by the freedom
granted in 1778. The contraband trade, carried on by the Englith
on the Mufquito fhore, and from the Portuguefe fettlements in Brazil,
not to mention the Caribbean fea, has alfo impeded the exertions of the
i ‘ft, ; t
See itiate boakaray’) The climate of this extenfive vicero alty
prefents infinite variety ; for though lying under, and in the near vicini.
ty of the equator, the vaft and ublime chain of the Andes, running
N. and S. from the table land of Quite and Cuenca, to the Caribbean
fea and environs af Santa Marta, occafions every diverfity from the
{now and ice of the poles, to the rain and heat of the tropics. While
the ancients conceived the torrid zone totally uninhabitable, on account
of the vertical fun, the theoretic geographer might be frozen to death
on the fummit of a mountain, or drowned in the continual torrents of
rain. But God creates worlds, and man creates theories. In the
dreadful pafs of Gouanacas N. lat. 2° 34', between Popayan and the
little town of Plata, the traveller traverfes the eaftern chain of the
Andes, which continues its progrefs between the rivers Magdalena and
Cauca, maintaining its grandeur and chief altitude till it expire in the
{nowy mountains of Santa Marta, or, according to our author, at the
junction of the two great rivers juft mentioned *. Though the greateft
recautions are ufed, yet, for the {pace of two leagues, the road was
found fo much covered with the bones of travellers who had perithed,
that it was impoffible to fet down one’s foot except upon thefe terrible
memorials. ‘T’o the S. of this pafs, is the lofty voleano of Cocunucu,
and towards the N. the mountain of Houila equally clothed with fnow.
At lefs than a hundred fathoms diftance, appear the fource of the
~ Cauca on one fide, and that of the Magdalena on the other, rodigious
rivers, evincing the extreme altitude of this part of the chain ‘on
though the road from Popayan to Plata be only ie lea; pers ie
twenty to twenty-two days are employed, fo great are the difficu cy
the road, fo terrible the climate encountered within two degrees 0 ne
equator! Even the climate of Bogota, the capital as already mentioned,
may be accufed of cold; and the eet heights of Albarazin on the E.
of the tropical fun.
ae The names of fummer and winter expire under the troe
pics, where, if mountains do not interfere, there are only the wet and
dry feafons ; and the former, which is called winter, is often of {uperior
warmth. a4; P
s»] The great rivers Magdalena and Cauca rife and terminate
in Te wchoriteee According to the ep of La Cruz, the very
fources' are confiderable ftreams, perhaps the iffues of fubterranean waters,
from the vaft cavity under the table land, where the volcanos often pour
* Bouguer, Figure de la Terre, p lv. on
out deftrudi
thefe rivers h
boldt’s work
between Po
rapids, whict
lena, as alrea
of New Gra
Borany.]
trated, thou
botanift, TH
defire on this
have already |
Bouguer h
often larger |
than that of t
engraved, or |
brous, but ex.
The Cerax
the height of
ards in the c
he {pace or
leaves, is cover
of refin and w
latter.
The Matifi
Peru. It bea:
The Myrtu,
Loxa in Peru +
Zoorocy.]
whole continen
fu!t the work <
anta of the Po
boars and deer
the American ¢
the moft ferocic
the puma, of z
The wild cats «
ral the mufquit
than uadruped
ters, but the
it may be diffic
bear in thefe «
Chili, if we juc
found in North
Afia and Euro
* The balfam of
the beautiful woods
black ; and many ot
gany. ‘The beft cod
cannot be gathered
tree in the diftriQ of
+ Humbolde.
3 In the charming
when he makes Frid
IN SOUTH AMERICA. “+ 933
out deftructive torrents of water and mud; but the natural hiftory of
thefe rivers has been little illuftrated, and the completion of Mr. Hum-
boldt’s work is impatiently expected. The navigation of the Cauca,
between Popayan and Antioquia, is rendered dangerous by winding
rapids, which however the Indians pafs in-their canoes. The Magda-
lena, as already mentioned, is a majeltic navigable ftream, the Danube
of New Granada.
Borany.] The botany of New Granada has not been duly illuf-
trated, though it be faid that Bogota isthe refidence of an eminent
botanift. ‘The labours of Mr. Humboldt will, no doubt, leave little to
defire on this fubje&. Some of the moft ufeful vegetable productions
have already been {pecified *.
Bouguer has defcribed the celebrated fruit called chirimoya, as.
often larger than the largeft apple, while the rind is not ftronger
than that of the fig, and the colour a little deeper; but it is as it were
engraved, or marked with little {cales, while the pulp is white and fi-
brous, but exquifite.
The Ceraxylon Andicola, or wax palm, grows on the Andes, at:
the height of eighteen himdred yards to two thoufand nine hundred.
ards in the country between the valley. of the Magdalena and Cauca.
The {pace on the trunk between the rings left by the fall of the
leaves, is covered about one-fifth of an inch thick with a natural mixture
of refin and wax, in the proportion of two of the former to one of the.
latter. °
The Matifia cordata grows wild and cultivated in New Granada and
Peru. It bears a large fruit like an apricot. , é;
The Myrtus microphylla, a beautiful evergreen fhrub, grows near
Loxa in Peru +.
Zoourocy.] The animals are in general fuch as are common to the
whole continent of South America, and the {cientific reader will con-
fu't the work of Azara. The tapir, (the danta of the Spaniards, the
anta of the Portuguefe,) is well known, as are feveral kinds of wild
boars and deer; the ant-eater is not uncommon, The jaguar, called
the American tiger, though he appear to be {potted and not ftriped, is
the moft ferocious and dreaded animal, and attains a great fize; while
the puma, of an uniform colour like the lion, rarely attacks mankind. .
The wild cats of two or three kinds are little dangerous ; and in gene-
ral the mufquitoes and other noxious infects are more to be dreaded
than quadrupeds. Bears are familiarly mentioned by the Spanifh wri-
ters, but they probably mean the ant-eater, as Alcedo fpecifies; and,
it may be difficult for an exact naturalift to trace the black or brown
bear in thefe ronal 4 nor does that animal feem even known in
Chili, if we judge by the account of the accurate Molina. The bears
found in North America feem to have paffed on the Arétic ice from
Afia and Europe. Serpents of enormous fize, fuch as the duia or
* The balfam of Tolu is fo called from a village in the province of Carthagena, Among:
the beautiful woods are the muxo ftreaked with red and black, the guayanu with grey and
black ; and many other kinds, which, if fafhion permitted, would fur outthine the maho-
gany. ‘The bett cochineal is from Sogamofo. There are palms fo high tat the fruit
caunot be gathered except by the birds. The varnith called mopamopa is the refin of a
tree in the diftri& of Pafto, and is faid to equal the Chinefe. Eftalla, xxiii. a8.
+ Humboldt.
¢ In the charming romance of Robinfon Crufoe, de Foe feems to ufe a poetical licence
when he makes Friday kill bears in his own country, ’
Zz4 bobay
712 SPANISH DOMINIONS
boba, are found in the marfhes ; and the cayman or alligator fwarms in
the rivers *. ’
-Minerarocy.] The mineralogy of the viceroyalty of New Grana«
da is far from being unimportant. Alcedo obferves that gold is here
more abundant than in any other part of America; and in Antioquia,
and feveral other towns, no other money is known. The richeft pro-
vinces in gold mines are thofe of Choco, and Antioquia, which are
alfo eafily acceffible by the rivers Atrato and Guacuba, which enter the
gulf of Darien, and are navigable for a confiderable extent+. Silver
is alfo remarkably pure; and the mines of Marquetones, in the diftria&
of Pamplona, are fo rich, that, if there were a fufficient number of
labourers, they might rival thofe of Potofi, as they fometimes yield
eight marks of filver in the hundred weight. Copper and lead alfo
abound, but are defpifed. There are mines of beautiful emeralds in
the diftri& of Muzo, fuperior to thofe of Somondoco in the diftri@ of
Tenza; and in thefe mines are alfo found pantauras, (a kind of precious
ftone not defcribed,) of various colours, with grains of gold in the
interior. Alcedo adds that in the mines of Antioquia, and Guamoco,
diamonds are found among the lumps of gold, but are of a {mall fize ;
with jacints and beautiful garnets. The river Hacha has always been
celebrated for its pearls, and Timana for amethyfts and pantauras;
while Paniplona, Suffa, and Anferma, boaft of their turquoifes, gira.
fols, gallinazos, or obfidian, and mapulas t.
Eftalla adds that the filver mines of Mariquita and Pamplona
have been abandoned, and that gold alone is coined at the mint
of Bogota §. Copper is found in the diftri& of Velez, but is little
worked, from the want-of machinery and miners. The province of
Darien having been abandoned to the Indians, the gold mines are moftly
loft. ;
Emeratps.] Muzo, the feat of the celebrated mines of emeralds, .
is in the diftri€t of Tunja; and 200 families, which inhabit it, are chiefly
eccupied in availing themfelves of this precious advantage. In 1764 the
viceroy of Peru ordered thefe mines to be examined; and the veins,
which had difappeared, having been found, the labour was ordered
to be refumed on account of the royal treafury. This fingular and
celebrated mine is in the mountain of Itoco, at the diftance ‘of three
leagues from Muzo; which is diftant about 50 B. miles to the north
from the capital. There are alfo in the neighbourhood of Muzo fome
mines of copper. Muzo is fupplied with provifious from the neigh-
bouring town of Ebate. '
Mines. ] Inthe time of Ulloa the province of Papayan abounded
in mines of gold, the richeft being thofe of Cali, Buga, Almaguar,
and Barbacoas; and there were alfo feveral mines of that metal in the
.* Near Punta, on the coaft of Guayaquil, was formerly found the purple fhell fith of
the ancients, and it was ufed as a dye.
+ Effalla, xxiii. 74,
¢ Alcedo mentions that the mapula is a precious ftone found in the mines of Anferma;
and that the pantuura is of a clear amethyft colour, pervaded within with little ftreaks of a
deep crimfon.
, Coleti gives the following lift of the mountains in the viceroyalty of New Granada :
" " Abibes Fofca
Abipi Gachaneque
Bocaneme, Mine of flver Itogo, Mine of emeralds. -
Buritaca, Mine of gold
6 Eftalla, xxii, 322,
ee noted
phere muft be even
noted diftri¢
the abundan
' firft, asa
urate pyrit
di&ion Py ]
Near the vil
a mine of p
is ftill belie
found in min
more than ar
Narurat
five viceroya
of Quito to
tioned in the
which rathe:
feem to be k
the W. and
defcribed ; a
out flames,
earthquakes t
sjecting fulpk
curiofity occt
river of the’;
height of 22¢
rate Bouguer
be two or thr
Alcedo, who
is 220 cflados,
Bouguer, the
1320 feet §,
puis along a
rom the {pou
exprefled, the
fall is received
and the quant
tinual mafs of
but in the mo
rainbows acco
which form t
polifhed as if ¢
trees, fhrubs,
of the birds, z
dama aljke {ub
* La Cruz has
+ Eftalla, xxii,
~ Figure de la
Probable that Eftal
Spanith authors re
nae nO proportion
3s about 15 or 16 Id
Magdalena ; and tl
§ There are ca
IN SOUTH AMERICA,
noted diftri& of Choco, fome of which were abandoned on account of
the abundance of platina, a more rare and fingular metal than gold, but
at firft, as appears from our author and Bouguer, miftaken for an ob-
durate pyrites. Other gold mines were near Zaruma, within the jurif-
di&ion of Loxa; and fome in the government of Jaen Bracamoros,
Near the village of Angamarca, in the jurifdition of Latacunga, was
a mine of prodigious value. ‘That rare and fingular metal called platina
is ftill believed to be a peculiar produét of Choco. It is generally
found in minute pallets, but Humboldt 1s {aid to have brought a piece
more than an inch in length.
Natura curiositizs.] Natural curiofities abound in this exten-
five viceroyalty; and there are fingular features, from the upland plaig
of Quito to the environs of Santa Marta. Tne volcano of Duida, mene
tioned i the general defcription of South America, is in Spanith Guiana,
which rather belongs to the government of Caracas; and no volcanoes
feem to be known in the two grand chains of the Andes which pafs to
the W. and E.of Bogota *. Thofe of Quito have been already
defcribed ; and Humboldt informs us that even fome caverns throw
out flames, and fometimes large plains are hollow. In 1766, after
earthquakes that lafted for eleven months, a plain opened on all fides
¢jeCting fulphuyeous water and bitumen. But a more pleafing natural
curiofity occurs in the neighbourhood of the capital Bogota, where the
river of the fame name, alfo called the Pati and Funza, falls froma
height of 220 feet according to Eftalla+; but according to the accue
rate Bouguer this cataract is one of the higheit in the world, as it muft
be two or three hundred fathoms in height, and the fall is vertical }.
Alcedo, who is often copied by Eftalla, exprefsly fays that the height
is 220 eflados, or fathoms of fix feet each, which being corroborated by
Bouguer, the real height of this ftupendous cataract is probably about
1320 feet §. The river Funza, which is even here very confiderable,
mt along a narrow channel on a high table land, and is poured, as
rom the {pout of a vafe, in one arch of the enormous height above
expreffed, the noife being heard at the diftance of feven leagues. ‘This
fall is received in a vaft cauldron of more than a league in circumference ;
and the quantity of the water, and violence of the defcent, form a cone
tinual mafs of Aouds which renders it {carcely vifible in the evening 5
but in the morning it is more ftriking, being decorated with numerous
rainbows according to the pofition of the foatiator, The vaft rocks,
which form the cauldron, alfo excite admiration, being as regular and
polifhed as if cut with a chiffel ; the furrounding heights are covered with
trees, fhrubs, and flowery plants, while the {plendid appearance of fome
of the birds, and the mufic of others, render the cataract of Tequen-
dama aljke {ublime apd beautiful.
* La Cruz has marked the volcano of Ebajito about 80 B. miles W. of Antioquia,
+ Eftalla, xvii, 281,
~ Figure de la Terre, xci. As the 200 fathom of Bouguer make 1200 feet, it is
probable that Eftalla, or his printer, has for doce or twelve, put dos or two; and all the
Spanith authors regarding this fall as what they call a prodigy of nature, the 200 feet can:
bear no proportion to fuch expreffions. Bouguer informs us that this wonderful cataract
is about 15 or 16 leagues beneath the city of Bogota, and about eight leagues from the river
Magdalena ; and that the city of Boyota is about, 8400 feet abovethe level of the fea; fo that:
phere muft be even here a high table land.
§ Thore are cataracts in Italy of 2,400 feet, See Vol. i, p. 697.
SPANISH DOMINIONS
SUPPLEMENT.
GOVERNMENT OF CARACAS.
Extent. — Population. — Manners. — Governmeni.— Royal Audiense, —
Defence. — Produ&s.— Commerce. — Revenues. — Cities andTowns.—~
Natural Geography.— SPANISH GUIANA.
HE government of Caracas is fo called from the chief
Exrwt.] J te Leon de Caracas, but{was properly the indigenal
appellation of a tribe in that quarter. The lift of captains-general
or governors of Caracas may be found in Alcedo’s work ; and extends
from 1528, when Alfinger conquered the country for the Welfers, (a
German mercantile houfe, to whom Charles V. had affigned the pro.
perty,) tillthe year 1785. The chief or largelt province was originally
called Venezuela, or Little Venice, from-a village of the favages in
the lake of Maracaibo; but the government now comprifes the adja.
cent provinces of Maracaibo, Varinas, Cumana (including Barcelona),
Spanith Guiana, and the ifle of Margarita. The government, in this
extent, has exifted fince 1730, and the overnor acknowled es no
fuperior except the king. The province of Merida is merged in that
of Varinas; and the name of New Andalufia has been properly
exchanged for that of Spanifh Guiana ; while that part of Brazil whic
is to the N. of the Orinoco has begun, not improperly, to affume Pa cape
of Portuguefe Guiana. The eftablifhment of the Royal Audience o
Caracas, when the Spanifh part of Hifpaniola was refigned to the French,
further afcertained the clear jurifdiGtion and boundaries of — we
Conquest.] In 1498 Colon so pone that part of Oe ome —
Paria, on the wet of the — _ by Pe eae pb pe aan
i fs was made in the.fettlement till Ct . ©
try te the Wellers of Augfburg, who were difpoffeffed atc 1550.
The chief conqueror was Lofado, who founded the city of Caracas
bia i f th ulation is given
c.] The following table of the pop is g
PP hac but the ‘bund numbers rather infer fome exaggeration.
Venezuela, including Varinas ° * =
Maracaibo ° - - —
Cumana e . - « ht
Spanifh Guiana ° . * $4,000
Ifle of Margarita . - ° 4»
728,000
lone i i already
T.] The regulations of the Spanith colonies have y
a samtelneds aa the profound : ae 4 be ape fon me indy
t country; while
pon th ta 0 et Big ee $ aa ehiah thee eke ta
ded a colony asa fituation to acquire ny eas pps Hlpyy Raped
njay i prefente
to enjoy in Europe. | The gover “* eee Rene,
h hout the provinces of Maracaibo, » Ce ,
Spanith Guiana, and the ifle of Margarita ; all the military aa *
being complet
confults a Jun
officers. The
appointed for f
nor-general is
as he has no y
Council of the
of his adminift;
is inculcated by
or form any ¢
general of Car
appointed for f
i his adminiftr
nd example
is named by th
at fuch a time a
erfons whateve
have been aggri
and their comp!
days; and othe:
plaints: but a:
fituation be obt
the forms and t
Roya. aup
blifhed in 1786,
in the captaincy
is aregent, with
two filcals, civil
Propucrs.]
gneifs, granite,
of rivers that rif
vable foil of th
turage for beeve
parts the moft fe
the fun, and is
cle of cultivatio
and cotton in 17
1796, but is fou
not of equal ft
Yet with all the
or five thoufand
ufed to produce
Caracas. The h
whatever be the
ambition of idle
agriculture ; and
fufficient fupply «
* Among .the prod
yiicas, tatoes, cura
twanty-five pounds, a
an account of the tgnd
tichnefe of foil, it ie c
fem the tee ; j
at the diftance of three
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 715
being completely fubjeé to his, orders, though on great occafions he.
confults a Junta de Guerra, or council of war, compofed of the chief
officers. There are however delegated governors for each province,
appointed for five years, with a lawyer as anaffeffor. Though the gover-
nor-general is prefident of the audience, the place is merely honorary,
as he has no vote nor voice. The whole fyftem is fubje&ted to the
Council of the Indies in Spain, and as he is obliged to render an account
of his adminiftration, aéts of defpotifm are extremely rare; and equity
is inculcated by a prohibition to purchafe property, to trade, marry,
or form any connexions in the open: he falary of the governar-
general of Caracas is nine thoufand dollars a year ; and he is generally
appointed for feven years. ‘The account which he is obliged to render
oF hie adminiftration is by the Spaniards called dar refidencia, and is a
nd example worthy of imitation. A commiflary, generally a lawyer,
is named by the king to receive this account ; and he gives notice that.
at fuch a time and place, the Court of Enquiry will be held, where all
erfons whatever, particularly Indians, who may confider themfelves to
ave been aggrieved by their late viceroy or governor, fhall be heard,
and their complaints redreffed. A governor is obliged to remain fixty
days; and other fixty days are required to*hear and decide the com-
plaints: but a viceroy muft remain for fix months: nor can any new
fituation be obtained, except upon a certificate that they have paffed
the forms and term of their refidence. :
Rovan Aupience.] The Royal Audience of Caracas was efla-
blifhed in 1786, and its power extends over all the provinces included
in the captaincy, Befides the governor, as honorary prefident, there |
is aregent, with 5300 dollars a year, three ofdors, or judges, each 3300 3
two filcals, civil and criminal, a recorder, and a grand alguazil,
Propucts.] While the line of mountains along the coaft prefents
gneifs, granite, and other barren rocks, with the fingular circumftance
of rivers that rife near the fea and flow inland, in the interior the culti-
vable foil of the plains, expofed to the folar heat, only prefents paf-
turage for beeves, horfes, and mules; and the vales are of all other
parts the moft fertile. The cacao or chocolate tree dreads the rays of —
the fun, and is protected by trees of taller growth. To this main arti-
cle of cultivation a, was added in 1774 by a worthy clergyman ;
and cotton in 1782, The fugar cane of Otaheite began to be tried in
1796, but is found of little a vantages as though larger, the juice is
not of equal ftrength. Tobacco forms another avticle of culture *,
Yet with all thefe rich produéts few planters are worth more than four
or five thoufand dollars a years and the French ifland of St. Domingo
ufed to produce ten-fold the quantities yielded by all the provinces of
Caracas. ‘The high intereft of money ; pious legacies of yearly amount,
whatever be the crop; the habit of refiding in towns; the foolifh
ambition of idle offices, and the confequent contempt of induftry and
agriculture ; and above all, according to our author, the want of a
{ufficient fupply of negroes, are the caufes of thisdeficiency. A board
* Among the produéts of Venezuela, Eftalla, xxiii. 128, mentions maize, plantains,
yuicas, toes, curas ; and gnames, a kind of rout fo enormous as fometimes to weigh
twenty-five pounds, and mgy be eaten for many days without fpoiling. Alcedo has given
an account of the tgnam, which is alfo found in Africa; the fize feems to depend on the
tichnefe of foil, it is of a dark purple colour approaching to black, and the fubfance re-
fernbles the putatee ; it is multiplied by cutting the top into four parts, and planting them
at the diftance of three or four fect, and the root is ripe in fx an
: Mien of
716 SPANISH DOMINIONS
of agriculture would be of fupreme utility, and might even affit the
Royal Audience, by judging in a fummary way the little law fuits on
irrigations, encroachments, the pay of workmen, the treatment. of
flaves, which at prefent occupy half its attention. Bouguer had long
ago explained what is confirmed by our author, that the Spaniards and:
creols negle& the arts of induftry ; fome miferable office or paltry
honour, a crofs of knighthood, occupy all their attention, while. a
few are in chace of the titles of Caftile, afpiring to be marquifes, counts,
or barons.
Commerce.] From the deficiency of the produce it may be judged,
that the commerce of Caracas is not confiderable. In June 1728 ina
duftrious Bifcayans founded the company of Guipufcoa, which was to
trade with Venezuela, and thus obviate the contraband traffic with
ftrangers. Their general affembly was held at St. Sebaftian ; and the
trade was conducted with wifdom and fpirit, till, corrupted by wealth
and avarice, the company itfelf entered into the contraband trade with
the Dutch of Curazoa, which they were inftituted to prevent. At
fength the celebrated ordinance of free commerce, 12th Oober 1771,
was iffued with fupreme prudence, and followed with furprifing fuccefs,
The great ports are Guayra and Porto Cavello, as regulated by an
ordinance of 1793, while the others have inferior privileges.
Cities AND Towns.] Caracas, the capital, is a confiderable town,
on the little river of Guayra. Its elevation of four hundred and fixty
fathoms above the fea, cools the temperature, fo that {pring may
be faid to be perpetual. During winter the thermometer of Farenheit
marks from 52° to 76°, and in fummer from 69° to 85°. It is built
in a valley, of about four leagues in extent, among the mountains of
the great chain, which runs along the fea from Coro to Cumana. The
fite is ftcep and irregular, from the northern heights to the river
Guayra, which bounds the city on the S.
Porto Cavello feems a commodious harbour, and the population may
be 7500; but the fituation is unhealthy, and extremely dangerous
to the crews of foreign veffels. The marfh, which occafions this
mortality, might be drained for twenty thoufand dollars! Valencia
contains about eight thoufand inhabitants, and its advantageous fitua-
tion may lead to great future advantages, Maracay is a beautiful new
village, in the rich vales of Aragoa, famous for the culture of chocolate.
The induftrious inhabitants, moftly Bifcayans, have been computed at
more than eight thovfand, and the vicinity is crowned with numerous
plantations of cotton, indigo, coffee, and grain. ‘T'ulmero, in the fame
wales, is another handfome town. Vitoria contains feven thoufand
eight hundred fouls, Coro ftands in an arid fandy plain, full of cadi,
nopals, and Indian figs; it has fome commerce with Curazoa, and a
population of about ten thoufand. Carora, thirty leagues to the S. is
alfo in an arid foil; but there is abundance of deer, whofe hides are
dreffed, leather being the chief fabric: population fix thoufand two
hundred, Barquifimeto is a thriving town, with about eleven thoufand
three hundred fouls. ‘T'ocuyo contains more than ten thoufand, though
the inhabitants have a fingular propenfity to fuicide. Guanara may
contain twelve thoufand three hundred, In 1804 Calabofa, between
Caricas and the Orinoco, might already boaft of a population of four
thoufand eight hundred, Pao is remarkable for herds of cattle *,
' @ These are two towns of this name,
" The
The river
lake of V;
river Apu
Valencia
Filippe is ;
tants. Ni;
the Zambo
for crimes,
them. _ Th
an Indian -
lively, gor
* Cumana
vinces, Cur
a pfovince,
ed a part C
the Caraca:
league fron
the port to
his overeig
tion.is com
increafe,
boldt fu po
out fulphur
mable gras,
height of o1
compofed o
The great 2
the Windw;
nia and the
verfons. B
che mouth o
thoufand ; t
for breeding
leagues fron
cept as a mi
town is Ail
The tow
bounded on
province of
the province
the lake of ]
only becom
excellent foi
is on the we
fandy fituati
to O&ober ;
oven. The
are unknow
earthquakes
with reeds,
is healthy, t
the ftrong b
meration in
and they we
e flaves d
IN SOUTH AMERICA. q%7
The river of the fame name, paffing N. to S. formerly fell into the
lake of Valencia, but afterwards aflumed its prefent direction to the
river Apuri, fo that a communication might eafily be opened between
Valencia and the Orinoco, a diftance of one hundred leagues. San
Filippe is a regular town, with about fix thoufand eight hundred inhabi-
tants. Nirgua, built in the expectation of mines, has been abandoned to
the Zambos, or offspring of negroes and Indians; a race fo remarkable
for crimes, that of ten which are committed, eight may be afcribed to
them. . This mixture is radically bad, while the children of a white by
an Indian woman, who are of a pale complexion, are always delicate,
lively, good, and docile. ;
~Cumana forms a delegated government, faid to contain two pro-
vinces, Cumana and Barcelona, which laft however has never formed
a pfovince, but being included in the grant to the Welfers, was efteem-
eda part of Venezuela. ‘The town of Cumana is the moft ancient in
the Caracas, having been founded in 1520, on a fandy foil, about a
league from the fea. In the laft war, Emparan the governor, opened.
the hh to neutral fhips, and his condu& met with the approbation of
his fovereign. The heat of the climate is very great, yet the popula-
tion.is computed at twenty-four thoufand, and is thought to be on the
increafe. It is however fubjeé&t to frequent ‘earthquakes, which Hum~
boldt poppoles to proceed from the volcanoes of Cumucuta, which pour
out fulphur and hot water. The caverns of Cuchenaro emit an inflam-
mable gas, which fhines in the night, efpecially after rains, to the
height of one hundred fathoms. The population of Cumana is chiefly
compofed of ereols, who are induftrious and fond of their native place.
The sg article of trade is falted fifth, which is fent to Caracas and
the Windward Iflands ; the induftrious inhabitants being from Catalo-
nia and the Canaries, Cariaco contains about fix thoufand five hundred
verfons. “ Barcelona was founded in 1634, en a plain, one league from
che mouth of the river Neveri; the population is computed at fourteen
thoufand ; but the town is, or was, very difagreeable, and only noted
for breeding fwire. ‘here is another town called Pao, about forty-five
leagues from Barcelona. The iffe of Margarita is little remarkable, ex-
cept asa military ftation for the invafion of the Caracas. The chief .
town is Affumption, near the centre of the ifland.
The town of Maracaibo is in the province of that name, which is
bounded on the W. by the viceroyalty of New Granada; the laft
province of which in the N. E. is that of the river Hacha, On the S.
the province of Maracaibo borders on Varinas, The eaftern fhore of
the lake of Maracaibo, is arid and unhealthy ; and on the W. the land
only becomes fertile about twenty-five leagues to the S. of the town, an
excellent foil prevailing on the fouthern banks of the lake. The town
is on the weftern fhore, at the diftance of fix leagues from the fea, ona
fandy fituation, and in a hot and dry climate, chiefly felt from March
to O&ober ; but in July and Auguft the air feems to proceed from an
oven, The only antidote is to bathe in the lake ; and endemial diforders
are unknown. The thunder ftorms are terrible; and if they fail,
earthquakes are fure to follow. Mott of the houfes are meanly covered
with reeds, and there is no water but that derived from the lake, which
is healthy, though not pleafant, efpecially in March and April, when
the ftrong breezes impregnate it wit faailorey, According to an enu-
meration in 1801, there were about twenty-two thoufand inhabitants ;
and they were increafed by the Spanifh refugees from St. Domingo.
The flaves do not excced five thoufand. The habit of failing aa
. ake
918 SPANISH DOMINIONS
lake encourages the {pirit of navigation, and many of the natives become
feamen. Even in the dry favaunas they contrive to feed numerous
herds, and the youth are celebrated for intelligence and ingenuity ; but
the inhabitants rather noted for want of probity. The women are
fond of the harp, which refounds in the ftreets in the evening. There
is only one church, and a convent of Francifcans. Merida is the feat
of a bifhopric, created in 1782, and the inhabitants are computed at
more than eleven thoufand. ‘The province of Varinas fometimes
affumes the name of Merida; but by the map of La Cruz, New Varinas
is in the province of Caracas ; while by that of Depons, which feems
more correét, Merida is in the province of Maracaibo, and Varinas
near the centre of the province fo called.
Truxillo was a flourifhing town till it was ravaged by the buccaneers
in 1678, fince which event the population has greatly declined ; and
Truxillo is chiefly noted for fweetmeats and confeltlons made by the wo.
men. In 1787 the town of Varinas was detached from the government
of Maracaibo, and chofen for the feat of a feparate government. As
it is eafily acceffible by the navigable rivers which join the Orinoco, a
militia was appointed for its defence in 1803. The tobacco of Varinas
is highly celebrated, though not equal to that of fome parts of Cumana,
The town of Varinas has a population of 10,000.
Naturavt GeocrarHy.] The temperature of this country, which
is in the ancient torrid zone, chiefly depends on the chains of mountains,
A. branch of the eaftern Andes of Quito paffes along the N. of the
province of Varinas ; and borders the coaft from Coro, or rather the N.
of Valencia, as far as Paria; while’another chain called the Bergautin
mountains, paffes further to the S. ‘Thefe chains are moftly habitable,
being of little height, though from ten to fifty leagues in breadth.
The higheft peak is the Picacho, of about feven thoufand feet. From
the account of Humboldt, thefe mountains are chiefly of granite and
gneifs, intermingled with talcaceous fchiftus, and chloritic f{chiftus,
adularia, limeftone with mica, rock cryital, a green primitive rock,
quartz, galena, titan, plumbago, clay, geod clay, &c. In the in-
terior of Cumana there is a remarkable cavern called Guacharo,
famous among the Indians, for being of immenfe extent, and ferving
as a habitation for thoufands of a kind of nofurnal birds, a new
Species of goat-fucker; the favages conceive thefe birds to be the fouls
of their anceftors, and vifit the cavern with great ceremony.
Mingxaocy.] There was formerly a mine near Nirgua. At pre-
fent only copper is explored at Arva, in the jurifdiction of St. Filippe.
Thefe mines are rich and abundant; and in 1801 one hundred and
feventy-one quintals were exported from Porto Cavello. Mineral
waters abound in thefe t pioim ag *,
Laxes.] Spring and autumn are unknown, and there are only fum-
mer and winter, or more properly rainy and dry feafons; during the
* The caguars (American tigers or leopards) alound in Caracas, and are faid to be the
more fierce prec as the fpote of their fkin are fmaller, Perhaps they diminith with
age. ‘There are alfo many pumas, or American lions, with bears or rather ant-eaters,
dantas or tapirs, deer, paguiras, and American rabbits, Among the plants is the tacama-
jaca, faid to relieve head-achs, Eftalla, xxiii, 106, 107, who fays that there are mines of
tin in different parts, difcovered by Oviedo, a citizen of vag fimeto ; and adds that, it
is employed in the Spanith founderies of artillery; He alfu mentions veins of azul or
azure, equal to ultramarine ; and the fame fubftance is mentioned by Ulloa in his aceount
of Peru, Do they mean Pruffian blue or cobalt, which, as yielding fmalt, was formerly
called Liue-ftone ?
at former
former the rai
Mexico-; bef
the rains have
ceafed, earth
Caracas little
derived its nat
fea of frefh v
gi miles in d
mentioned in {
frefh till its en
falt as far as t
Mena, there |
mixed with ta
vapours, efpe
this fpot, forn
they ferve as a
lake without a
the Indians bu
name of Vene:
the eaftern fide
acurate; and
vive the dange:
wanting. The
that they take
ractifed in Ch
urther north t
The lake of
Maracaibo, an
being fertile 1;
authority, it i
length, te thre
Pree from |
to N. E. is thir
four. Except
receives on all {
in the middle, 1
evacuation, Th
on the king’s a
other fides are ¢
verdure. This
inhabited. The
the quantity of
Iguanas, a mot
unfightly appea:
vans] A
river Apuro or .
the Portuguefe
lowed by the €
ftream, which d
uarapicha, wh
The tides on th
almoft infenfible
they are fo ftror
mariner. The t
IN SOUTH AMERICA. _ 719
former the rain generally falls for three hours in the afternoon, as in
Mexico-; before 1792 thunder ftorms were more frequent, but fince,
the rains have been more abundant. Since the thunder ftorms have
ceafed, earthquakes have become more common. The botany of
Caracas little differs from that of New Granada. The lake of Maracaibo
derived its name from an Indian cazic who commanded there. This
fea of frefh water is nearly circular, and by the lateft maps about 90
gi miles in diameter. It is navigable for large veffels, as already
mentioned in the account of the town of Maracaibo. It is generally
freth till its entrance into the fea, but during the northern breezes is
falt as far asthe town. On the N. E. of the lake, at a {pot called
Mena, there is an inexhauftible ftore of mineral pitch, which being
mixed with tallow ferves to tar the fhips. In the night the bituminous
vapours, efpecially during the great heats, dart like lightning from
this fpot, forming what is called the lantern of Maracaibo, becaufe
they ferve as a pharos to the Spaniards and Indians, who navigate the
lake without a compafs or nautical fill, The fhores being unhealthy,
the Indians build their hovels upon ftakes of hard wood, whence the
name of Venezuela or Little Venice. Four fuch villages ftill exift on
the eaftern fide of the lake ; they have a church on the water ferved by
a curate ; and fo fervent is religious zeal, that though’he feldom fur.
vive the dangerous climate above fix months, yet a fucceffor is never
wantisg. Thefe Indians chiefly live on fifth; and it is remarkable,
that they take wild ducks by concealing their heads in calibafhes, as
ractifed in China. The weftern fide of the lake is fertile ; and the
urther north the air is the more falutary.
The lake of Valencia offers a more pleafant profpect than that of
Maracaibo, and is more ufeful, though far inferior in fize, the banks
being fertile land, and enjoying a delicious climate. By the latelt
authority, it is about ten Spanifh leagues, or forty Britifh miles in
length, by three and a half, or fourteen Britifh miles in breadth ; but
Depons, from his own obfervatidn fays, that the length from S. W.
to N. E. is thirteen French leagues and a half, and the greateft breadth
four. Except the weftern fide, it is furrounded by mountains; and
receives on all fides twenty rivers or rivulets. It is found to be lower
in the middle, where it is fuppofed there is a fubterranean tunnel of
evacuation, The ealtern fide is occupied with five plantations of tobacco '
on the king’s account, which occupy fifteen thoufand perfons ; and the
other fides are equally cultivated, while the banks prefent a perpetual
verdure. This lake is alfo adorned with feveral ifles, fome of which are
inhabited. The water is of a foapy kind, afcribed by our author to
the quantity of animals and ve atables, which there rot and decompofe.
Iguanas, a monftrous kind of lizard, abound, and in {pite of their
wnlightly appearance afford a delicious fuod.
; ivanse] After the grand Orinoco in the S. the chief rivers are the
river Apuro or Apuri on the W, joined at its confluence by the river of
the Portuguefe Woman, or more fhortly the Portugue/a, which is fol.
lowed by the Guarico. In the middle is the Unari, a confiderable:
ftream, which divides Venezuela from Cumana; and on the E. the
Guarapicha, which is navigable by boats for a confiderable {pace.
The tides on the notthern coafts between the capes Vela and Paria’ are
almoft infenfible ; while on the eaftern fhores as bee Dotch Guiana,
they are fo ftrong as to enter effentially into the calculations of the
mariner. The trade winds between N. E. and E. though nonenss
the
y20 "SPANISH DOMINIONS
the fea, apon the fhores only blow from nine or ten o'clock till the
evening, when they are replaced by an oppofite wind or land breeze,
‘But this rule is not without exceptions. Veffela muft. be tarred every.
three or four months, elfe they are corroded by the worms*. It has
already been mentioned that Porto Cavello is by far the beft and fafeit
haven.
* Might not a mixture of arfenic prevent this peftilenee ?
ogee aE
Seanish Gurana.] This article muft not be difmiffed, withove
fome account of Sranisu Gutana ; for fuch is the appellation finally
adopted for the province, called in fome maps New Cumana or New
Andalufia.. The large and celebratéd territory of Guiana is bounded
by the river Orinoco on the N. and W,, the line afterwards bending on.
the E. of the Cafiquiari, where is the fort of St. Carlos, to the great
river Negro, which divides Guiana from Northern Amazonia, or by a
more laudable appellation Northern Colonna. The fouthern boundary
of Guiana is ftriétly the great river Maranon; the part of Brazil on the
N. of that river having begun to aflume the more proper name of
Portucvuess Guiana. The eaftern boundary is the Atlantic Ocean,
This interefting country is even at prefenc little knowns and contetts
have arifen concerning the courfe of the moft important rivers. The
French, Dutch, and Portuguefe poffeflions in Guiana, are referved for
feparate de(criptions. :
Bounparies.] Spanifh Guiana is bounded on the S. E. by the
Dutch and French poffeffions, on the S. by the Portuguefe, the line
of demarcation paffing nearly parallel with the lake of Parima and the
reat chain of mountains called Tumucurag. The precife weftern
Boundary is the weftern mouth of the river Yupura, thence proceeding
almoft due north till it join the northern limit. But when the French,
by the treaty of 1801, extended the weftern frontier of their poffeffions
to the Rio Blanco, it appears to be indicated, that this river forms the
boundary of Portuguefe Guiana, which would be more proper than an
arbitrary line. ‘The equator was the original boundary, but the Por.
tuguefe have extended their poffeffions thirty-two leagues further ta
the N. for there are fituated the ifle St. Jofeph, and the mountain
Gloria del Cocui, regarded as the prefent boundaries. The Spanifh
fort of San Carlos, N. lat. 1° 53!, is intended to prevent new ulurpa.
tions, and to recover if poffible the loft territory ; which is difficult,
as the Portuguefe have fettlements in a fertile country, and the conve.
nience of tranfport by the Maranon, they being more than 300 leagues
from the fea. From this reafoning of Depons, it would appear that
the recent western boundary of Portuguefe Guiana extends to the great
river Negro. The town of San Tome, or old Guiana, was founded
in 1516, on the fouthern bank of the Orinoco, fifty leagues from its
mouth ; but being expofed to repeated attacks and infults, was tranf.
ferred in 1764, to a more fafe and remote pofition, about ninety
leagues from the fea. There is here a fpecial governor, dependent on
the captain-general of Caracas 5 and it is the feat of a bifhopric. The
7 9 houfes
houfes hay
heats. In
Trade is ¢
The city h:
Caribs exp
thoufand tr
Origin of the
SPANISH
Oricin.] !
rography: a
aéf enti si
the followin,
other recent ;
Chili believe
fert that they
inclines to t}
peviepe proce
anguages mi
or copper co
Nefians are g¢
ever, in the 1
markably rich
would appear
which may nq
from the othe
ructure. So
Quechua,. wh
kingdoms +.
. History.
In total obfeur
dawn in the P
the equator to
country extend
Ocean, flanked
fends forth cc
vied foil at t
able producto
tribes, each r
feems to have
conducted by’
nticr provin
* Molina Sage;
[alla Storia
T Storia Civile,
IN SOUTH AMERICA, q2r
houfes have terraces, where the inhabitants fleep during the great
heats. In 1803, the whole tythe of the vicinity was 4000 dollars.
Trade is carried on by a few Catalonians, in thirty-four {mall veffels.
The city had better have been placed nearer the fea, and the ferocious
Caribs expelled, which might be accomplifhed in two months by three
thoufand troops.
CHAPTER IV.
GOVERNMENT OF CHILI.
Origin of the Chilefe. —Hiftory.—ARAUCANS.— Dreft.— Manners.
— Government.— War.— Religion, &Fc.
SPANISH CHILI. — Government. — Cities. — Commerce. —Natural
Geography.
HE works of Molina «..: etning this interefting
country may be regardea ~: excellent models of cho-
rography: and {carcely of any diftant region a defcription exifts fo ex-
act and complete. He ‘fhall therefore be feleCted as the chief guide in
the following fhort abftraét, though a few occafional obfervations by
other recent authors may be interfperfed*, Some of the indigenes of
Chili believe that they were produced in the country, while others af-
fert that they came from the north or the weft. Our learned author
inclmes to think that the Chilefe, being generally of a mild character,
erhaps proceeded from the ifles of Polynefia ; and a comparifon of the
anguages might be curious. They are of a brown, tinged with red
or copper colour, like the other American tribes; while the Poly-
nefians are generally olive, a tint decidedly Afiatic. One tribe how-
ever, in the province of Boroa, is fair. The Chilefe language is re-
markably sich and harmonious;'and from our author’s vocabulary it
would appear that there are few natural objects, or even abftract terms,
which may not be expreffed in the native idiom. It differs radically
from the other American languages, not lefs in the words than in the
ftruture. Some few words however feem to be from the Peruvian or
Quechua,. which is not furprifing confidering the contiguity of the
kingdoms ¢.
istory.] Till the fifteenth century the hiftory of Chili is buried
in total ob{curity, but about the middle of that century it begins to
dawn in the Peruvian annals, The Peruvian empire then extended from
the equator to the tropic of capricorn, or confines of Chili, a delicious
country extending for more than twelve hundred miles along the Great
Ocean, flanked and protected by the vaft belt of the Andes, which
fends forth copious itreams to water its fertile fields; while the en-
vied foil at the fame time abounds with gold, filver, and other valu.
able productions. The native Chilefe were then divided into fifteen
tribes, each ruled by ite u/men or chief. The inca Yupanqui, who
feems to have reigned about 1450, ordered an expedition againft Chili,
conduted by a prince of the Hood, while he himfelf remained in the
fronticr province of Atacama. Some tribes were rather won by per-
Oaicin. ]
® Molina Saggio fulla Storia Naturale del Chili, Bologua, 1782, @vo. Snggi
[alla Storia Civile'del Chili. Bologna, 1787, 8v0, = ' =
t Storia Civile, P- 12.
© 8 A
fuafion,
7225 SPANISH DOMINIONS |
fuafion, than fubdued by force or fear; and on a further progrefe
the Peruvian army was totally defeated; but the country as far as the
river Rapel, where there ftill exifts a Peruvian fortrefs, acknow-
ledged the dominion of the Incas. Thus on the arrival of the Spa-
niards in America, a part of the Chilefe were fubdued, while the other
portion remained free.
In both thefe diviftons the manners were the fame; and the Chilefe
may be faid to have advanced from the paftoral ftate of fociety to the
agricultural ; befides maize they cultivated feveral native plants, as po-
tatees, yucas, and others*, They alfo multiplied their little rabbits,
and native camel or rather tall fheep, which fupplied them with flefh,
and wool to clothe them. According to fome traditions they had even
hogs and hens, the former a frequent animal in Polynefia, the latter -
probably the turkey, an American fowl, or that bird wh.ich refembles
the pheafant, which might probably be t: “ed as partridges are in
Afiatic Turkey, Such was their dominion over the ‘animal creation,
though they might have added the guanaco, the pudu a kind of wild
goat, and various birds which abound in their country. Canais to
water their fields were not unknown, but their inftruments of agri-
culture were mean and cumberfome. Their villages confifted of huts,
only within view of each other, like thofe of the ancient Germans ;
and it would feem that their chiefs arofe to that dignity on account of
their wealth, as the word u/men fignifies a rich man. Their power was
direGtive and not coercive, and the right of property was admitted; .
the field belonged to the cultivator, and was tran{mitted to his children.
Their looms, though of rude fabric, f{omewhat refembled the European ;
and they were no ftrangers to the art of making earthen ware. They
extracted from their mountains gold, filver, copper, tin, and lead;
and of a mixture, approaching to bell-metal, formed: axes, and other
rude inftruments, found, though rarely, in their fepulchres, they being
generally of bafalt. Our author even afferts that they had a term for
iron, and had weapons made of that metal, a circumftance unknown to
all the other tribes of America; but this by his own confeffion feems
dubious f: They were acquainted both with foffil falt, and that drawn
by heat from fea water; and their dyes were fixed by the polcuda, an
aluminous ftone ufed as a mordent, From one of their plants was
derived thread for cords and nets; and they had canoes of different
ftructures. In numbers they could exprefs one thoufand, and they had
prons, or the Peruvian guipos, a bundle. of threads of various colours,
with different knots to exprefs contracts or events. The celebrated
Araucanos may be confidered as the genuine reprefentatives of the an-
ecient Chilefe; and the account of their mauners will {upply any de-
ficiency in the prefent defcription.
Axaucans.] After the conqueft of Peru the Spaniards under Al-
magro firft attacked Chili in 1535 but met with little fuccefe till their
general Valdivia, in 1541, founded Santiago, which has fince remained
the capital. After detailing the events of thofe wars, our author pro-
ceeds to give an account of the Araucans, who have fo vigoroufly de-
fended their country againft the further progrefs of the Spaniards, and
who are better known in Europe by the epic poem of Ercilla than by
the records of hiftory. The defcription of this fingular nation might
have been transferred to that of the native tribes and Unconquered
Countries ; but as they poffefs nearly one half of Chili, and their hif-
* Storia Civile, p, 16, + Ib, 25,
tory. .
tory is i
te ma
their geo
The A
the river
Andes, ar
Province /
that of
but they ;
MEN. T°
robuft, we
though coy
The face is
preffion, th
uniform te
flat, They
it with grea
of barbarifn
all the othe
copious, anc
air a mark
Oroa, En
careful oper
feventy ; no!
hundred, wi
Corref{ponds \
patient of the
country, abx
health ed f
their contra
vanquithed,
culiar to the
letters; dru
which leads t
and knowledg
but the obftad
Purtcnes
ftate of Arau
Their name fj
of the chace,
tach colonies
Fuelgapi, and
Ahe Araucan
in war, and t
The hiftory,
our excellent ¢
quered by the
their territorie
the great river
the Spanith fir
widtors of Per
In the firft eng
their leader flaj
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 723
tory is intimately interwoven with that of the province, the arrange«
ment. may appear more connected by introducing here a fhort view of
their geographical pofition, charaéter, and circumftances.
The Araucans inhabit .a beautiful trai of country extending from
the river Biobio N. to that of Valdivia S. bounded on the eaft by the
Andes, and on the W. by the ocean. The name is derived from the
province Arauco, which, though the fmalleft- of their ftate, has, like
that of Holland, become the leading name of the country and nation 5
but they alfo voluntarily receive the appellation of Aucas or FREE
MEN. Though they do not pafs the ufual fize, they are in general
robuft, well formed, and of a truly warlike afpe&t. Their complexion,
though copper, feems to be more clear than that of other Americans.
The face is nearly round, the eyes though f{mall, lively, and full of ex-
preffion, the nofe rather flat, but the mouth well made, with white and
uniform teeth; the leg mufcular and elegant, and the feet fmall and
flat. They have naturally very little beard like the Tatars, and extract
it with great attention, defpifing the beards of the Europeans as marks
of barbarifm. They alfo carefully eradicate this natural vegetation from
all the other parts of their bodies. ‘The hair of the head is black and
copious, and bound up ina knot ; and like the Franks, they efteem long
hair a mark of honour. ‘The women are often handfome, efpecially in
Boroa. Endued with a ftrong conftitution, and free from fedentary or
careful operations, they rarely hecome grey before the age of fixty or
feventy ; nor bald before that of eighty; and not a few exceed one
hundred, with the teeth, fight, ant memory complete *. The foul
correfponds with’ the vigour of the body. Intrepid, and full of fire,
patient of the fatigues of war, prodigal of their lives in defence of their
country, above all lovers of liberty, which they value above their
health and foul, jealous of honour, courteous, hofpitable, faithful to
their contracts, grateful for benefits, generous, humane towards the
vanquifhed. Thefe noble qualities are however ob{cured with vices pe
culiar to their nearly favage life, deftitute of education and the ufe of
letters; drunkennefs, floth, prefumption, and a contemptible pride
which leads them to defpife all other nations. Were European manners
and knowledge introduced, this people might deferve univerfal efteem 5
but the obftacles feem invincible.
Purtcues.] The Puelches of the mountains, now united with the
ftate of Araucana, are more rude and favage than the other inhabitants.
Their name fignifies eaftcrn men. They are of a tall ftature, and fond
of the chace, fo that they often change their habitations, and even de«
tach colonies to the eaftern fides of the Andes, as far as the lake Nae
Frelgapi, and the fhores of the Atlantic, in the wide Patagonian plains,
he Araucans highly efteem thefe mountaineers for their bold fervices
in war, and their lafting fidelity to the confederacy.
The hiftory and wars of the Araucans, which are amply detailed by
our excellent author, are foreign to the nature of this work. Uncon-
uered by the incas, they boldly refifted the Spaniards, who approached
their territories in 1550. Proceeding beyond their northern frontier,
the great river Biobio, to affift the Pencons againft the new invaders,
the Spanifh fire-arms were feen and felt without aftonifhment ; and the
witors of Peru were at Jaft aftonifhed to find an unconquerable peaple.
In the firft engagement the Spaniards were difordered, and the horle of
their leader flain; while the general of the Araucans fell on the field 5
® Storia Civile, p. 53,
342 and
7124 | SPANISH DOMINIONS
i& remained undecided. Valdivia, inftead of making
pe ot 8 a pom to build a fortrefs to defend his territory ; but in:
peek orbattie, 1553» he was totally defeated Lig a ate hve pes
i been carried on with various fuccefs.
hy “tabled colonial towns, which sg ot ag: sevpetesiy. hi en bie]
i . The frontier banks o Biobi
Nowy weer bhite of 94, after a war which had coft the as
ath vento 2,700,000 dollars, the Toqui of the Araueans in : te
oe havin 4 refident minifter. at the city of Santiago, a propofition:
which the Spaniards. relu€antly | el and the Araucan gover
with his train was lodged in col ae or eee ane x I we
i i The Araucan fta d .
longing to the Jefuits. Th neti ad ee
then Molina wrote in 1787; an ‘
prt it Sot cutie to exift aga perpetual proof of the courage and
ee : er ee he Spaniards: are contented with that see
a of | vent ines which lies between the defart of Atacama and the
ne ‘Biobio # This fettlement is divided into thirteen progieet,
Copi 0, Co inrbos Quilleta, Aconcagua, Melipilla, ls ME ae
Cd rie Mauli, Itata, Chillan, Puciacay, and Hui wil me.
The slfo 8 flefa Port Valdivia, in the country of the Cunc 4 3 tl ae
he la Ff Chiloé ; and the ifland of Juan Fernandez. Spanith
Chilir a Liars province, is governed by an officer of Re ais
ty if "the rank of lieutenant-general, who affumes the st of pre oa >
sean and captain-general of the kin om of Chili ee be Me
in the city of pete ~ is ey Pee Ae oar
war, when he confults the viceroy of Peru. bolitere of the king.
, ili ffairs ; not only the three great office
peti pr ‘ferjeant-major, and the oot: ~ ha
a overnors of Chiloe, Valdivia, Valparaifo, and Juan iy - ez,
eis eibiegt to his orders. As prefident and governor-general, Ks ie
raiaitere jttee, or rather prefides ! et Be 3 i gebon mS ik:
ivided into two halls, the civil and the cri ; ay
rio ; ry ee royal procurator, and a: protector of 3 A A
Wher : the property exceeds ten thoufand dollars, an appea i ae
fi ite covncit of the Indies; but juttice, as in all t ‘pe Ne
= is adminiftered with fingular integrity. There oe al * sk
of fin e, of the papal bull, of vacant lands; and the conful: ig
tribunal of commerce, a new inftitution in the swervea te ane Ma A .
- The provinces are govern prefeé
Aen cmc ana b the captain-general. The A eg sl
pa ante regiments of militia; and there - bab . " y b Sa
f Concepcion, at the mou .
og a iad aga Pe « another of infantry, to rr
stg tet ; and the city of Santiago maintains fome troops 0 .
i i fe , e e
OCR Laat Baath Chil te divided into two vaft eee =
i agp Concepcion, both fuffragans of the eee A o
a cathedrals are ferved by canons; and the holy, or Ps Bi
fed, office of the inquifition, has at Santiago a one ay der
sm fubalterns. There are no convents except at Santiag
ers Thefe cities are well built, with Mrects a6 right angles,
* Moliaa, Storia Civile, 265, nae
the Chilefe ci
commont;
forced th
without, |
‘ings are «
earthquak
384 feet.
by Indian,
Roman ar
Porut.,
of comme:
delicious <
northern p
Italians,
tion defcen
of treafon
ous, abfery
and fecienti{
tiees. ‘T'
ar from p
and the wx
owns, and
hili, We
coaches, an
another the
‘duke when
dees of Spa
nient, have
‘and not wat
giftrate, the
amidft the
and poetry,
palladores, 2
Andes. ¥
‘courtiers in
thence the fa
twenty large
aQs, and fhc
a mere impro
nith is gene
Araucan fro
horfeback, ji
pox was no
Mauli The
treated the
one died; y
very few *,
appears in t
peafant admi
co&ion of pa
gular powers
{cribed by th
and Herodot
IN-SOUTH AMERICA. "5
eommonly thirty-fix feet wide. The repeated earthquakes have ine
forced the mode of only a ground ftory ; but the houfes are whitened
without, and commonly painted within ; and many of the new build-
‘ings are of ftone, and of two ftories, as fuch have often withftood
earthquakes as well as thofe of one. Whe -cathedral af Santiago is
384 feet ‘in length, the work of two Englith architeéts, but finihhed
by Indians, their difciples. The mint of Santiago is the work of a
Roman archite&t. *
Poruxration.] Spanith Chili has benefited greatly by the liberty
ef commerce 1778, and the population begins to correfpond with its
delicious climate and fertile fields. ‘The Spaniards are moitly from the
northern provinces, and are mingled.with a few Englifh, French, and
Italians. Molina obferves, that the creols, of whatever European nae
tion defcended, refemble each other. Well made, intrepid, incapable
of treafon or meannefs, vain, liberal, ardent, fond of pleafure, fagaci-
ous, obfervant, ingenious, decile, they only want inftru&ive beoks,
and fcientific inftruments, which are very rare, and fold at enormous
tiees. The noble arts are however neglected, and even mechanics are
ar from perfeGtion. The men generally -drefs in the French fathion,
and the women in that of Peru; but the Chilefe ladies wear longer
owns, and have a more modeft air. Lima however # the Paris of
hili. Wealth is watted in the purchafe of rich drefles, liveries,
coaches, and titles of Caftile, a fixed fum purchafing that of count,
another that of marquis; and an opulent merchant may become a
duke when he pleafes. ‘Two natives of Chili have even become gran-
dees of Spain.: The common people finding the Araucan drefs conve-
nient, have adopted their fafhion; Difperfed through a wide country,
‘and not watched, as in Spain, by the vulgar infolence of a village ma-
giftrate, they enjoy their liberty, and lead a happy and tranquil life
amidft the pleafures of the delicious climate. Fond of gaiety, mufic,
and poetry, many are improvi/atori, or in the language of the country,
palladores, as in the province of Cordova, an the other fide of the
Andes. The Spanifh language is fingularly fertile in rimes, and the
‘courtiers in the fixteenth century would converfe for hours in metre ;
thence the facility of their celearated poet Lope de Vega, who, befides
twenty large volumes af poetry, compofed five hundred plays, in three
a&s, and fhort lines, each written in the {pace of a day, being in fa&
‘@ mere improwi/atore, but with wonderful invention in his plots. Spa»
nifh is generally {poken in Chili; but the country people near the
Araucan frontier ufe the Araucan or Chilefe language. Conttantly on
horfeback, in an exquifite air, they are healthy and robuft. The fmall-
pox was not known till 1766, whéh it appeared in the province. of
Mauli The mortality was terrible, till a peafant who had been cured,
treated the patients with cows’ milk, either in drink or clyfters. Not
one died; while the phyficians, with numerous receipts, could fave
very few*, Laffon had tried the fame praGtice with great fuccefs, as
appears in the Medical Tranfa@tions of Paris, 1779; but the Chilefe
peafant adminiftered the milk pure, while Laffon mingled it with a de-
co&tion of parfley. Milk certainly, by fweetening the blood, has fin-
gular powers againit this infection, The leather ttrap and balls, de-
{cribed by the author of Anfon’s voyage, have been already mentioned 5
and Herodotus informs us of a fimilar weapon among the Sagartii. Of
the Chilefe commerce fome idea has been given in the account of Perus,
@ Storia Civile, 277,
343 te
. SPANISH DOMINIONS
It occupies twenty-three or twenty-four fhips, each from five to fix
hundred tons; bringing filver, fugar, rice, cotton, in exchange for the
Chilefe grain, wine, pot-herbs, conferves, dried flefh, wood, copper,
&c. Ships from Spain in return for European goods, receive gold,
filver, copper, vicuna wool, and dreffed leather. It would be highly
advantageous to Chili to open a direé& trade with the Eaft Indies *.
« Our author’s account of the Chilefe or Araucan language, and the
vocabularies, are extremely curious and interefting. It 1s faid radically
to differ from the guechua, or language of Peru.
Narurav uistory,] The natural hiftory of Chili is as ably treated
by our excellent author as the civil; nor fhall this arrangement be
changed in this fhort abftrac&t. The length, as already mentioned, he
computes at 1260 g. miles, The breadth depends on the diftance of
the Andes from the great. ocean, being from 24° till 32°, about 210
miles; thence to 37° only 120, but from that parallel to the archipela.
go of Chiloé the diftance may be 300 miles. Square contents, com.
prifing the Andes, about 378,000 {quare miles}+. The N. boundary is
the defart of Atacama; on the E. the eaftern branch of the Andes,
which divides Chili from Cuyo, in the viceroyalty of La Plata, and
from the favage tribes. On the S. our author mentions the Magellanic
lands, a name’ totally difmiffed from geography, fince the voyages of
: Cook have evinced that there is no continent to the S. of America; and
it would be idle to give the name, as reftri€ted, to a few fandy defarts
at the fouthern extremity of this continent. On the S. there are bar.
ren mountains, and no tribes to be feared, amidit the cold regions
covered with fand and fnow. Eight or nine paths open to the Andes,
on the E. the mott frequented being that which leads from the Chilefe
province of Aconcagua to Cuyo; a journey of eight days, like thofe
over the Alps in Swifferland, on fhelves in the perpendicular rocks,
. hanging over the profound apertures, through which wind the rivers
- Chilli and Mendoza. Mules are ufed; but the travellers are often
obliged to proceed on foot. Some little plains are found, where the
incas, when they fubdued Cuyo, and the northern provinces of Chili,
conftruGted little houfes of ftone, fome of which remain. The name
Chili is indigenal, but is pronounced Cili by the natives, while the Spa-
niards ufe Zchili. All the etymologies given by geographers are falle,
{now being in the Chilefe tongue pire; and the Chilefe themfelves pre-
-tend that the name is derived from flocks of a bird refembling the
thrufh, regarded as a happy omen by the firft fettlers, What is called
the maritime part, prefents three chains of hills parallel to the Andes ;
‘the mediterranean is moftly plain. The grand belt of the Andes
is here about 120 miles in breatlth, with tranfverfe ridges full of ilu-
pendous ruptures and precipices; but ftudded with little vales and
excellent paftures, watered with many flreams and cafcades from the
rocks, :
Mounrains.] The higheft mountains of the Chilefe Andes are
Maiifla, at 28°45’; Tupungato 33° 24’; Defcabesado 35° ; Blanquillo,
35° 4'3 Longavi, 35° 30'; Chillan, 36°; Corcobado 43° ¢. Molina
- had not an opportunity of meafuring the prodigious height of thefe moun.
tains; but the Spaniards and Chilefe fuppofe them to be move than 20,000
. © In his able treatife of the commerce of Pern, Lequanda has alfo illuftrated that of
Chili. The reader is referred to the account here given of the viceroyaliy of les; or to
Efftalla, xx. 275.
+ Storia Naturale, 18, ¢ Ib, 23,
feet
feet above the
argues againft
from the equa
It feems to be
of the chain, ar
another proof |
into North An
digious heights
another grand |
many parts cc
. appears from
Darien; and n
New Spain, til
on the N. W..
Andes, as knc
mountains of T
on the fame gi
rivers and othe
the equator on
mountains may
when New Ho
run i and V
latitude of 40°
‘height, as knoy
Curmare. ]
are as regular «
fouthern hemify
begins on the :
March, and wi
middle of autur
lat. the years |
period. Ther
of Auguft. In
rain falls ; but
nating with fif
fometimes cont
is {carcely knoy
VoLCANOES.
that of Peteroa
crater, {plittin
many miles, ,
but was not a
filled the adjace
river Tiugerica
Lontua, a
waters having
paflage and inu
other volcanoes
a {mall one nez
great volcano ¢
name in Arauc
Laxess.] T
6Ourk from the
IN SOUTH AMERICA: 927
feet above the fea: the loweft part is in Copiapo. When our author
argues againft Buffon, that mountains increale in height as they recede
from the equator, he fhews no great acquaintance with geography.
It feems to be certain that the Andes.of La Paz, that is in the centre
of the chain, are higher than thofe of Quito or Chili, nearly equidiftant ;
another proof that the Andes cannot be ftri@ly regarded as pafling
into North America, while in fa& the chief chain extends to the pro-
digious heights of Santa Marta, covered with perpetual fnow, while
another grand branch proceeds by Bogota to the N. E., being alfo in
many parts covered with perpetual fnow. The weftern -branch, as
appears from the map of La Cruz, totally perifhes at the gulf of
Darien; and no {nowy mountains are known in that quarter, nor in
New Spain, till two other chains commence, one on the S. E., another
on the N. W.of Mexico; which are totally unconnected with the
Andes, as known to every ftudent of exact geography. The high
mountains of Tibet, now known to be about 25,000 feet above the fea,
on the fame gigantic fcale, as was to have been expected, with the
rivers and other features of Afia, are much at the fame diftance from
the equator on the N. as thofe of La Paz on the S. fo that the higheft
mountains may be faid to be near the tropics: and it is probable that
when New Holland is fully explored, a great chain tay be found to
run e and W. though the centre of the country. But from the
latitude of 40° towards either pole the mountains certainly decreafe in
‘height, as known to every geclogitt.
Curmate.]) The fingularities of Peru here ceafe, and the four feafons
are as regular as in Europe, though in an inverfed order, being in the
fouthern hemifphere. As ufual beyond the tropic of Capricorn, {pring
begins on the 21{t of September, fummer in December, autumn in
March, and winter in June *. From the beginning of fpring to the
middle of autumn, the fky is always ferene, chiefly between 24° and 25?
lat. the years being rare in which a flight fhower falls durir ys that
period, The rains begin in the middle of April, and laft till tue end
ef Auguft. In the northern provinces of Coquimbo and Copiapo little
rain falls ; but in the middle there are three or four days of rain, alter-
nating with fifteen or twenty dry days; and in the fouthern, the rains
fometimes continue without interruption for nine or ten days, Thunder
is fcarcely known, except on the Andes.
Voicanoes.] Volcanoes abound in Chili, the moft terrible being
that of Peteroa, which on the third of December 1762, opened a new
crater, fplitting into two parts, a contiguous mountain for the {pace of
many sites, The tremendous noife was heard throughout the kingdom,
but was not accompanied with any earthquake. The afhes and lava
filled the adjacent vallies, and caufed an inundation of two days in the
river Tiugerica. A fragment of a mountain falling os the gredt river
Lontua, totally topped its courfe for ten days; and the ftagnated
waters having formed a vafte lake, which ftill exifts, at laft opened a
paflage and inundated the neighbouring country. There are only two
other volcanoes in Chili, which do not belong to the Andine chain,
a {mall one near the river Rapel, whic only ejects fmoke ; and the
great volcano of Villarica, {9 called, becaufe itis near a lake of that .
name in Araucana.
Laxgs.] The rivers, though fometimes confiderable, have but a fhort
¢Ourke from the Andes to the ocean. There are feveral lakes, both
# Storia Naturale, 30,
728 SPANISH DOMINIONS
frefh,and falt, the -two largeft being in Araucana. The Lauquen,
called Villarica by the Spaniards, it about feventy-two miles in circuit,
with a beautiful conic hill in the centre. The Nahueleapi is about
eighty miles in circumference ; and in the centre is an ifland crowned
with beautiful trees *. This gives rife to a river of the fame name,
runniug towards the Atlantic, while from the firft fprings the river
Tolten which joins the Pacific, There are many medical waters, and falt
rivers. ‘The Araucans fuppofe the former to be fpecial gifts of their
beneficent god Meulen,
Sori.] The fertility of the foil excites admiration. Many parts that
were in conftant labour long before the arrival of the Spaniards, and
have fince been always cropped by them, are fo little degenerated, that
no manure is neceffary. T e grain is faid to yield from a hundred to
a hundred and fifty ; but our exact author adds that, in general, the
crop in the meditterranean lands is of fixty or feventy; and in the
maritime forty or fifty; though the harveit is left too long on the
round. The foil towards the fhores often refembles the fat land of
Bologna, of a reddifh brown, friable, tender, mixed with a lictle cla
or marl, and fometimes prefenting white or brown pebbles, arfectcel
and martial pyrites, with thells, madrepores, and other marine produc.
tions. ‘That of the mediterranean parts and Andine vales is of a yellow-
ifh black, porous, friable, foft, often gravelly, and fprinkled with
pyrites, flints, and decompofed marine bodies. Both thefe foils are
of great depth, as may be obferved in the water courfes. There feems
little doubt that the ocean has retired, and our author gives proofs that
jt {till continues to diminifh. His account of the Andes of Chili has
already been given in the general view of thefe mountains.
Minerarocy.] Chili is celebrated as one of the richeft metallic res
ions. The lead is found of excellent quality, but it is only ufed for the
Futon of filver, and afew domeftic purpofes. It appears in the fhapes af
galena, green ore, white {parry ore ; and is always mingled with a little
gold or fiver, which is detpifed by the miners of this rich country. The
mines of tin are yet more negleéted than thofe of lead, in fpite of their
abundance, and the excellence of the mineral: they are moitly in fandy
mountains, where they do not form veins like other minerals, but appear
like black, little, irregular ftones, which contain the metel nearly pure,
with fome arfenic and iron, ‘Tin cryftals of various colours are allo com-
mon. Iron is fo abundant, that there are few rivers which do not depofit a
‘andy ore ofthat metal. By fpecial regulations iron cannot be wrought
in the Spanith colonies, but is a monopoly of the parent country,
Hence theorifts have conceived that no iron exifts, while many pro-
vinces of Chili prefent rich fources of this mineral, the compa& black ore,
the granular grey, and the folid cubical blue, Araucana alfo containsex-
cellent mines of iron, fuppofed to be not inferior to that of Spain. Cop-
per mines chiefly abound between 24° and 36° of &, lat. and the metal
3s equal if not fuperior to any difcovered, being often mingled with
gold, like that of Sibe ia. Mott of the copper pres found in Europe
alfo appear +‘ Chili and the moft celebrated mine is that of Payen in
the country of the Puelches, That of Curico prefents copper mingled
with one half gold: being beautifully {potted, it is formed into brace-
Jets, rings, and other ornaments. In other parts are large kag of
ure cof per. In one province copper is found united with zinc, form.
- a nitural brafs: and our author conceives this fingular mixture to
e Storia Naturale, 56, '
be
be the ef
malleable ¢
Laxa, isc
from Chil
befides the
mention t
While c
in the hig
The chie
Coquimbo
black are t
of Ufpalla
ted on the
This hig
Linnaeus ;
called Ufy
another p
they are v
fixty miles
mer day t
in which
appearanc
oF the adj
circumftan
rock. T
of Ufpalla
nor is the
for ninet
and it is b
dire@tion, |
nificent in
always nin
thrown of
enetrate i
he gan
grand vein
two inches
quantity o'
brown ; wh
this wonde
that fome |
feet ; buttt
trial by th
hundred m
ed to fifty
equal to tl
1638, wae
not far fro:
continue t
® Storia I
+ The An
one workman
pounce,
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 729
be the effect of fubterranean fires. It is of a beautiful yellow, as
malleable as any artificial brafs, and being found near the great river
Laxa, is called Laxa copper. Vaft quantities of copper are exported
from Chili to Spain, perhaps more than 100,000 quintals annually,
befides the export to Peru, to the amount of 30,000 quintals: not to
mention the home confumption for artillery, and domettic purpofes.
While copper is difperfed thoughout the country, filver 1s only found
in the high and cold defarts of the Andes, whence it is little wrought.
The chief filver mines are in the province of Santiago, Aconcagua,
Coquimbo, and Copiapo. The ores are of all defcriptions, but the
black are the moft efleemed. The moft celebrated mine of filver is that
of Ufpallata, the largeft and richeft of any yet wrought in Chili; and fitua-
ted on the eaftern mountains of the Andes, in the province of Aconcagua.
This high defart produces no plant, except the dadylis glomerata of
Linnezus ; and a plain about fifty miles in length and fix in breadth,
called Ufpallata, gives name to the mine. It is furmounted with
another plain, upon which rife Andine fummits of fuch height, that
they are vifible from San Luigi, at the diftance of three hundred and
fixty miles *! Thefe enormous heights, which reqyire an entire fura-
mer day to pafs them, are compofed of black maffes of indurated clay,
in which are enchafed many round and {mooth pebbles, bearing every
appearance of having been rolled in water. Morales, in his defcription
of the adjacent province of Cuyo, has obferved the fame furprifing
circumftance, which is far from being confined to the furface of the
rock. The vein of filver, on the fkirts of the eaftern chain of the plain
of Ufpallata, has been traced to the enormous length of ninety miles,
nor is the termination yct precifely fixed. Thofe who have purfued it
for ninety miles declare, that it continues of undiminifhed opulence ;
and it is by many fuppofed to extend to Potofi, which is in the fame
direGtion, that is a {pace of 14° or 840 g. miles. If jult, what a mag.
nificent inftance of the prodigality of nature! 1 he grand vein is
always nine feet in thicknefs; but on both fides numerous veins are
thrown off, which, dividing into fmaller branches, may be faid to
enetrate in all directions, a chain of mountains thirty miles in breadth.
he gangart, of an earthy fubltance, and different colours, divides the
grand vein into five parallel but unequal parts. ‘That in the centre, only
two inches in breadth, is black, though it appear white from the great
quantity of metal, and is by the miners called the guide ; the two nextare
brown ; while the two external falbands are of a greyifh colour. Though
this wonderful vein extends horizontally, it fometimes dips fo much,
that fome of the pite dug in 1766 went to the depth of three hundred
feet ; butthe mineral, far from degenerating, became richer and richer, On
trial by the affayers of Potofi, it was found, that the guide yielded two
hundred marks of pure filver in the caxon +,: the two next veins diminith.
ed to fifty ; and the exterior only yielded f.urteen: but on the whole
equal to that of Potofi, The mine of Ufpallata, though difcovered in
1638, was neglected till 1762, when the people of Mendoza, a town
not far from Ufpallata, invited two expert minersfrom Peru ; and they
continue to work the mine with prodigious advantage.
® Storia Naturale, 103. The dire diftance can fearcely exceed 200 g, miles.
+ The American metallurgifts apply this term caron to the quantity of mineral which
one workman may extradt ju « day, amounting to about fifty quintels, cach of one hundred
pounds,
it Even
= SA eS MM hp RG Sata tae
$= =" — 2 goes ae ee a= Se <2 =
id 5 mon :
730 SPANISH DOMINIONS
Even after this furprifing defcription, our author afferts, that of all
the metals gold is the mofl abundant in Chili; there not being a moun.
tain, or a hill, which does not produce it in greater or f{maller quanti.
ties ; whence it is found in the foil of the plains, and abounds in the
fand of the rivers. The gold of Chili is celebrated as the pureft in the
world, being generally found of twenty-two carats, and often of
twenty-three carats and a half. In the fouthern provinces, between.
the river Biobio, and the archipelago of Chiloé, were difcovered many
mines of excellent gold, from which the Spaniards received immenfe
fums, and had in confequence ereéted a mint at Valdivia, and another
at Oforno. But the Araucans, having expelled the Spaniards by force
of arms, have clofed all the mines, avowing an extreme contempt for
that precious metal, as the fource of infamous cruelty and unmanly
avarice, and the fole caufe of the utter degradation of human virtue,
The moft confiderable mines of gold now worked in Spanith Chili,
are thofe of Copiapo, Guafco, Coquimbo, Petorca, Ligua, Tiitil,
Putaendo, Caren, Alhue, Chibato, and Huillipatagua; all which,
except the three laft, which have been recently difcovered, have, ever
fince the conqueft, yielded a conftant, and confiderable produ&. The
famous mine of Peldchue, near the capital of Chili, has been loft by
the intrufion of water ; and fteam engines, which in the mines of Corn.
wall, throw out entire rivers, feem to be unknown in Spanifh America,
This mine yielded daily three thoufand crowns of gold*. Our excel-
lent and exaét author afferte, that the gangarts of goldare fo general, that
fcarcely can be named an earth, ftone, or metal, which does not ferve
as its receptacle: but I have never obferved that felfpar, either com-
mon or compact, ferves as a gangart for any metal ; which is one dif.
tinGion between it and petrofilex, of which whole mineral mountains
fometimes confift, as at Schlangenberg in Siberia}. This precious
metal appears in grains, folicules or little leaves, in curious and fan-
taftic fhapes, the fports of nature, or in pepitas, irregular mafles like
otatoes, which may be cut with a chiffel. “Che moft common gangart,
Somaree is, by his obfervation, a kind of red and brittle argillaceous
{chiftus, the fame with that of Potofi; and a fpecimen of that of Chili
may be feen at the colletion of the Inflitute at Bologna. But the
falbands which accompany the veins, and, which by the Chilefe me-
tallurgifts are called the chef, as they contain the mineral, are fome-
times quartz, at other calcareous fpar, horuftone, hornblend, limeflone,
&c. By far the greater number of velne run N. and S. Vor the me-
tallurgy our intelligent author may be confulted. He adds, that fome-
times little beds of pure gold duit are found in ploughing, or makin
trenches of irrigation ; and fuch beds are commonly accompanied with
a red earth; being the decompofition of the argiilaceous {chiftus. The
old of the Chilefe mines, paying the royal fifth, amounts to about
four millions of dollars annually ; of which a million and a half are
coined at the mint of Santiago. The remainder is exported, or melted
into ecclefiaftic and private veffels, and ornaments, efpecially for the
women ; but the quantity which efcapes the tribute of the fifth cannot
be computed. Any perfon may apply for a mine; and ‘the prefident
of Chili orders an po hate to meafure the ufual {pace, two hundred and
® Storia Naturale, 111.
+ Confulting Haity at Paris upon this remark, he could only inflance magnanefe upon
felfpar; but upon examination it was fuperficiai, and the gangart was not penctrated.
fortys
forty-fix feet
One part go
others, that |
carefully con
courfe of pe
were @ perp
the governor
Borany. ]
moft of the t
ties, a few re
Jarly mention
all the pot h
northern pro
other tropica
plants, not |
but it is pro!
Maize is con
tuca a {pecie:
the Spaniard
Of the latte
was firft bro
founded witl
pere, as an
purple, and
nglith gard
this ftrawber
call it guelgh
ble as dyes,
is peculiar
Granada; it
ufeful in dif
payee is ex
1e beaut
that in Ara
tilling tears
incenfe of tl
excellent con
the fhores.
myrtles ; th
by ftrangers
known as a)
jarilla, yiel
while the pa
the banks o
to that of t
the beautifu
ter. In th
pines; the 4
Chiloé, from
will be cut fi
its entire thi
excellent in
one, about
The cinnam
ed as facred
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 731
forty-fix feet in length, and a hundred and twenty-three in breadth.
One part goes to the king, but is fold to the proprietors of the two
others, that is the lord of the eftate and the difcoverer. Proprictors
carefully conceal veins, that their lands may not be injured by the con.
courfe of people. When a rich vein is difcovered, there follows as it
were a perpetual fair ; and a fixed village or town foon arifes, when
the governor fends a judge or alcald,
Borany.] Molina has ably difcuffed the botany of Chili; but as
moft of the topics have ven treated in the defcription of the viceroyal-
ties, a few remarks may iuffice. Many of the plants, and he particue
Jarly mentions. nettles, are the fame with thofe of Europe ; and almoft
all the pot herbs and fruits of that continent flourifh in Chili. The
northern provinces even produce the {ugar cane, the {weet potatoe, and
other tropical plants. Our author has obferved about three thoufand
plants, not to be found in the botanical catalogues of his time, 1782,
but it is probable that moft of them now occur in the Flora Peruana.
Maize is common and abundant; the magu isa kind of rice, and the
tuca a {pecies of barley, both of them cultivated before the arrival of
the Spaniards. Peas and potatoes were alfo well known to the Chilefe.
Of the latter they have thirty kinds ; and perhaps this valuable root
was firft brought to Europe from this country, but it muft not be con-
founded with the {weet potatoe, a tropical plant mentioned by Shakf-
pere, as an aphrodifiac. The large white ftrawberry, tipped with
urple, and about three inches in circumference, not wmknown in
EEnglith gardens, is alfo derived from Chili. Molina {pecially defcribes
this ftrawberry as of the fize of a {mall hen’s egg, and fays the Chilefe
call it guelghen ; and it is cultivated as a crop. Many plants are valua-
ble as dyes, and others as medicinal. The gentian, called cachanlabuan
is peculiar to Chili, though fome botanifts have afcribed it to New
Granada; it is an excellent fudoritic and febrifuge, but particularly
ufeful in difeafes of the throat. The vira-vira expels the ague; the
ayco is excellent for indigeftions. Wild tobacco abounds in Chili,
The beautiful flowers and fhrubs are infinite. Incenfe, not inferior to
that in Arabia, is produced by a fhrub about four feet in heighth, dif.
tilling tears of a whitith yellow, and of a bitter aromatic tafte, like the
incenfe of the Levant. The trunk of the fu i fupplies Chili with
excellent corks, The /a//ola kali, a known al aline plant, abounds on
the fhores. Chili —— no lefs than feven kinds of beautiful
myrtles ; the fruit of one yielding an excellent ftomachic wine preferred
by ftrangers to any mufcatel. The culen fupplies an excellent tea,
known as a vermifuge. An acacia of the province of Quillota called
jarilla, yields a balfam of excellent odour, ufed in the cure of wounds 5
while the pa/gui is efteemed a fuperior febrifuge to Peruvian bark. On
the banks of the rivers Maypo and Salvia, grows the cafia /ena equal
to that of the Levant. OF ninety-feven kinds of trees, that diverfify
the beautiful forefts of Chili, only thirteen lofe their leaves in the wine
ter. In the Andine vallies are cypreffes, red and white cedars, and
pines ; the red cedars being often of enormous fize, fo that inthe ifle of
Chiloé, from feven hundredto eight hundred planks, twenty feet in length,
will be cut from one tree. The willow only differs from the European in
its entire thin leaves of a yellowith green ; and the infufion of the bark is
excellent in fevers, There are large and beautiful cad, the thorns of
one, about eight inches in length, being ufed as wires in knitting.
The cinnamon tree, which yields what is called Winter’s bark, is regard-
ed as facred by the Araucans, who prefeng it ava fign of peace. The
carroh
ant mena ~ annem = —s es
P ¢ = : > SS ae
See ered it Spe i =
SES RS SRE OS EE!
se TI a
vitae
me
= os
732 SPANISH DOMINIONS
carrob has been already mentioned in the account of La Plata*. Beau.
tiful woods of various coleurs are alfo fupplied by the Chilefe forefts,
Vines flourifh to admiration, but none apes to be native, as in North
America $ nor does this valuable creeper feem to be any where indigenal
in the fouthern hemifphere. Turkey and Perfia, and perhaps Greece
are probably the native feats of the cultivated vine ; and wild vines
occur in itill higher latitudes in North America, The forefts of Chili
indeed abound with vines, but they arife from feeds depofited by the
birds. From the confines to the river Mauli, the vines are three or
four feet in height, and fupported by ftakes ; but farther to the fouth
they are left loofe on the fides of the hills. The beft wine comes from
the banks of the river Itata, commonly called wine of Concepcion,
becaife the vineyards belong to that city. It is red, generous, of an
excellent favour, and equal to the beft in Europe. reat quantities
are fent to Peru, but the veflels being pitched, the fragrance is loft.
Mufcatel wines are alfo excellent. The vintage is in April and May.
Ail the other European fruits attain the greateft perfection.
Zoorocy.]) ‘The zoology of Chili differs little, as may be conceived,
from that ef La Plata and Peru; and our learned author may be con.
fulted for an ample defcription. Near Coquimbo excellent oyiters are
found; atd the beauty of the fea thells is often admirable. The rocks
of Chiloé furnith the pholas, called in {taly fea-dates. There are many
kinds of lobfters and crabs. Among the infects is the locuft of Africa,
an unpleafant but feldom deftruétive gueft ; and the parrot butterfly is
of fupreme beauty. Bees abound in the fouthern provinces. Reptiles
are rare; but the fea produces feventy-fix kinds of fith, all excellent
and falutary. The feile called fea cows appear on the fhores of Arau.
cana. The fpecies of land and aquatic birds amount to one hundred
and thirty-five; while the fea fowl are innumerable, fo that, on the
fhores, the firmament is often darkened by their prodigious flights,
The others retire in {pring to the forefte of the Andes, to propagate ;
and on the return of winter they revifit the plains: while thofe who
haunt the {nowy mountains become white asin Europe. A fpecies of
dove and partridge is frequent: but it may be doubted whether our
common fowl! was known to the Chilefe before the Spanith arrival, as
afferted by Molina, nor is the name in their language conclufive. The
beautiful flamingo decorates the banks of the rivers ; and’ the ro
or humming bird hovers round the flowers in a rich effulgence of funny
hues. There are not a few finging birds of powerful melody. The
American oftrich appears in great numbers, in the Andine vallies ; and
efpecially near the great lake Nahuelgapi. In height he is equal toa
man, the neck being two feet and eight inches in length: the head
round, {mall, and cloathed with feathers: the legs as long as the neck,
feet with three anterior tocs, and a fhort one behind, The wings are
eight feet in extent, and black : the back of an ath colour, while the
remainder of the body is white. Some are wholly black, others
white, but fuch may be regarded as monfters. In fome refpects he
diffeys from the African, but is equal in voracity ; and the female lays
in the fand from forty to fixty eggs, each yielding about two pounds
of excellent meat. The feathers are ufed for plumes, parafols, fans,
&c. If there be any inferiority it is on the fide of the African. Seve.
i ibes it, Ceratonia folio. carinatis, ramis /pinofis. He adds that it differs
Pte a cera dh 58 ings a in length, aad’b bard as to be uled as nails,
while ube pods are wos different fiom the caratole, ie
‘toa proper
ral eagles an
folitudes of t
celebrated, ai
wideft extent
of fourteen f
that of the ro
is clothed w
white feather
with a thin {
four inches .
towards the |
in length, an
and of a br
fithes, the |
defiga of omn
eye and mali
aud nutrition.
majeftic And
Some races
but they difi
ancient contin
Chili. The
African ; ane
feet. | This a
numerous fps
pettilential eje
prahews by in x
fu a
tonk on mank
though witho
without feath
animal ftyled
fomewhat ref
enerally ath
is whitith ; th
the top of th
The tail is tw
tiger. Whe
the horfe to
in the patty
other before h
never dares ta
the .‘ frican li
account of the
as ite attribute
and a fox, al
have been al
that thefe thre
clafs of the c;
a fingalar kin
ra “ it
.) an;
Avdess whe
Becomes extre
IN SOUTH AMERICA, 733
ral eagles and vultures {cream among the prodigious presipices and
folitudes of the Andes. The condor, a f{pecies of vulture, is the moft
celebrated, and is doubtlefs the largeft bird that pervades the air. The
wideft extent of the wings, that fall under ovr author’s infpection, was
of fourteen feet and fome inches. The body greatly exceeds in fize
that of the royal eagle ; and is uniformly black, except the back which
is clothed with white feathers. There is alfo a necklace of raifed
white feathers, about an inch in breadth: the head is only covered
with a thin fkin ; eyes black, with an iris of reddifh brown ; beak
four inches in length, large, aquiline, black at the bafe, white |
towards the points chief feathers of the wing two feet nine inches
in length, and four linesin diameter. The female is inferior in fize,
and of a brown colour; as among all the quadrupeds, birds, and
fithes, the female is-leaft favoured by nature ; probably in the
defiga of omnifcience that their lefs gaudy colours may not attract the
eye and malice of their foes, during the facred period of geftation
aud nutrition. Such is the condor, an inhabitant worthy of the
majeftic Andes.
Some races of dogs were known before the arrival of the Spaniards ;
but they differ, like all the American animals, from thofe of the
ancient continent. Molina counts tbirty-fix fpecies of quadrupeds in
Chili. The hippopotamus of the rivers and lakes differs from the
African ; and in fize and form refembles a horfe, but with palmated
feet. : This animal was however never feen by the author. There are
numerous fpecies of the feal kind: and the chinga, known by its
pettilential ejection in its defence, is not rare in Chili. The perfume is
contained in a fmall bladder, and does not proceed from the urine as
fuppofed. The culpen refembles a fox, and has a fingular curiofity to
look on mankind, as he never fails to follow and ftare at the traveller,
though without offering any harm, furprifed perhaps to fee a biped
without feathers. The puma, called by the Mexicans miz/é, is the
animal ftyled a lion by the old writers; for though he has no mane, he
fomewhat refembles the African lion in fhape and roar. His back is
generally ath colour, with fome {prinkling of yellow, while the belly
1s whitifh ; the length from the nofe to the tail five feet, height from
the top of the fhoulder to the fore foot twenty-fix inches and a half.
The tail is two feet and one inch in length, and refembles that of the
tiger. When amorous he hiffes like a ferpent ; and prefers the fiefh of
the horfe to any other. It being ufual to couple two horfes together
in the pafture, to prevent their flight, he will kill one, and drive the
other before him with ftrokes of his paw, till he has carried his companion
to a proper recefs, The puma, which is alfo called pagi in Chili,
never dares to attack mankind, and a child may drive him away; but
the .‘ frican lion is equally daftardly, as obferved by Mr. Barrow in his
account of the va of Good Hope, who regards cunning, not courages
as its attribute. ‘The cuy and the vi/caccia an anitnal betwixt a rabbit
and a fox, alfo abound. The vicuna, the chilihueque, and the guanaco
have been already mentioned in the account of La Plata. Molina fays
that thefe three, with the paco and the glama of Peru, belong to the
clafs of the camel, A more peculiar quadruped of Chili is the buemul,
a fingalar kind of wild horfe, with all the forms of that noble animal,
excent that it has cloven fect. Wallis obferved it towards the Straits
of Magellan; and he loves to haunt the moft retired precipices of the
Andes; where, more wild and more {wift than the vicuna, the chace
Becomes extremely difficult.
Mok
434 ; SPANISH DOMINIONS
Moft of the European animals have improved in this delicious climate
and fertile country ; and in fire, vigour, lightnefs, and beauty, the
horfes of Chili do not yield to ‘their fathers of Andalufia; nor have
the celebrated Spanifh fheep here loft any of their qualities. According
to Molina this famous breed defcends from the African race, which car-
dinal Ximenes brought from Morocco *. Nor has that noble animal
man degenerated in Chili, In 1781 died a Spanifh knight, Don
Antonio Boza, aged one hundred and fix, who had never known
ficknefs, and had by two wives twenty-eight fons. Molina has alfo
known creols aged 104. 107. 115. His grandfather and great grand.
father, both creols, died at the age of g5 and 96; and fuch examples
are common even among the indigenes +. The women are fruitful, and
twins common. A Frenchman, wh died in 1764, left by one wife
163 defcendants. Our author joins with Dobrizhoffer in the ridicule
of thofe theorifts who affert the inilnrity of the American phyfiognomy.
The Borcans, as already mentioned, have flaxen hair and blue eyes 5
and a Chilefe does not differ lefs froma Peruvian than a German from
an Italian. The tribes of Paraguay, Cuyo, and Tehuelia, have all
their peculiar lineaments, They have little beard, becaufe it is eradi-
cated; and the hair of puberty, Tuppofed by Dr. Robertfon to be
very f{pare, is on the contrary copious, but eradicated like the reft.
The arguments againit the vigour and appetite of thefetribes are alike
unfounded t. Onthe S. of Chili are the Poyas, a race equal to the
Tehuels in ftature.
Natura curiosities.] That the fea gradually retreats from the
coaft of Chili is matter of annual obfervation. In fome places the
land left is two inches, in fome half a foot, efpecially near the mouths
of rivers ; where the part left is the firft year covered with loofe fand,
in the fecond produces fome herbs, and in the third is completely
covered with verdure. The fhore of Chili confifts moftly of a plain, five
or fix miles broad, between the fea and the maritime mountains; theiv
fides bearing evident marks of the lowsring of the ocean, which has
fometimes formed curious grottos with different chambers, hung with
fhells or ftaiaétites, where beaits take refuge in the winter.
At the diftance of four hundred paces from the mouth of the river
Mauli, on the left hand, there is on the fea fhore a mafs of whitifh
marble, about feventy-five feet in height, quite detached; the length
from E. to W. being 224 feet, and the breadth 54. It is commonly
called the Church, and has in faé& all the appearance of one, being ex
cavated in the injfide into a vault more than one-third of its exterior
height, and having three doors of a proportional height and breadth
and femicircular form; one at the elles end, where the fea, the
great archite&t of this fingular edifice, enters, and two lateral doors
exadtly oppofite, through which the fea retires during the reflux. This
natural edifice, of which half is ftill hathed by the waves, ferves as a
* Might not the origiual race be ftill tried, and gradually habituated, by being at fir
reftrited to warm S, W. counties of England ? Certainly the experiment deferves attention,
particularly as the paftures in Morocco, may perhaps approach nearer to the Exglith, or
at leaft not abound in aromatic plants, fo much as thofe of Spain. The wool of the
African kind feems coarfe, and it is probably the change of the climate that occafions the
finenefs of the fleece.
+ Molina does honour to the creo! race, for a more clear, fcientific, and intelligent ace
count of any country was never written by any author of any age or climate.
¢ It is to be regretted that this great writer had ever perufed the dreams of Pauw;
for he is feldom vulnerable, except where he follows that idle theorilt, whofe works are
now deferredly forgotten.
ot refidence
refidence f
the vaft co
“li, in fize
of Rancag
in the nei,
have it con
Tue dor
tugal, exter
Pedro, S. 1:
breadth, fro
the river of
exceed that
quity, is ftill
want of {cier
cover the e:
Though lon
ledge of Bra
Amazonia, |
The chief ci
fince yielded
eftuary of th
namboco, Se
the Portugu
naticifm of t
populstics 0
ree admiffior
dullry and Pp
raz, as
which was k
vided into eig
of which alon
he difcovery
One hundred
Preponderancd
and importand
articles for thd
that the balan
tances of bulli
plus of their ¢
it appears tha
revolt from th
South Americ
the Portugue
while the nati
belong exclufiy
There are alfo
* Staunton, E
t According
200,000, the neg
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 735
refidence for a great number of fea wolves, whofe cries refound through
the vaft concavity; while the top is covered with white fea fowl called
lili, in fize and figure refembling doves. On the coaft of the province
of Rancagua is another fimilar, and now free from the fea. The people
in the neighbourhood, who call it the church of the Rofary, with to
have it confecrated for divine fervice.
PORTUGUESE POSSESSIONS.
Tue dominions in South America, held by the fmall kingdom of Pore
tugal, extend from the frontier of Dutch Guiana, lat. 3° N. to port St.
Pedro, 5. lat. 32° being thirty-five degrees, or 2100 G. miles: and the
breadth, from Cape St. Roque to the fartheft Portuguefe fettlement on
the river of Amazons, called St. Paul de Omaguas, equals, if it do not
exceed that extent. This valt territory, rivalling the empires of anti-
quity, is ftill more unknown than the Spanifh pofleffions, partly from the
want of fcience and curiofity, partly on account of the thick forefts which
cover the extenfive plains of the Maranon, and its auxiliary ftreams.
Though long in ftri& alliance with Portugal we have little precife know-
ledge of Brazil; and {till lefs of the interior country fo abfurdly called —
Amazonia, but more juftly by the Spaniards the Land of the Miflions.
The chief city of Brazil was formerly Bahia or San Salvador, which has
fince yielded ta Rio Janeiro, The others are Para and Cayta near the
eftuary of the Maranon, with a few {mall fettlements on that river; Pare
namboco, Sergippe, Paraiba, Villa Grande, &c. the chief fettlements of
the Portuguele being only thinly feattered along the fhores. The fa-
naticifm of the Spaniards and Pcrtuguefe is an invincible obftacle to the
opulatic. of fome of the fineft regions of the globe; while by the
Free admiffion of all feéts, as.in the territory of the United States, ine
duflry and population would increafe with furprifing rapidity.
Brazil, as is well known, derived its name from the wood fo called,
which was known long before the difcovery of America. It is now die
vided into eight independent governments, befides that of Rio de Janeiro,
of which alone the governor retains the ftyle of viceroy of the Brazils*.
The difcovery and improvement of the gold and diamond mines, about
one hundred leagues to the N. W. having fecured to Janeiro a decided
preponderance. ‘ But all the provinces are growing faft into opulence
and importance. They manufactured of late feveral of the moft neceflary
articles for their own confumption ; and their produce was fo confiderable
that the balance of trade began to be already in their favour; and remite
tances of bullion were made to them from Europe, in return for the overs
lus of their exports beyond their imports +.’? From the fame account
it appears that the Portuguefe fettlers have fhewn repeated fymptoms of
revolt from the parent country. ‘The population of this large portion of
South America as aot been accurately detailed ; but it would feem that
the Portuguefe and their defcendants cannot amount to half a million,
while the natives may be three or four millions$. The diamond mines
belong exclufively to the crowns: and one-fifth of the gold is exaéted.
There are alfo numerous taxes and impofitions, which inftead of enlarging
* Staunton, Embaffy to China, i, 204, + Ib. -
$ According to Staunton, ir 195, all the whites in the Brazile were computed at
200,000, whe negroce 600,000. Trghably the natives do not exceed one million.
the
936 PORTUGUESE POSSESSIONS
the revenue are the grand caufes of its diminution; and the expences of
overnment confume about one-third of the million flerling, which Brazil
16 {uppofed to yield to Portugal *, The European fettlers are in general
gay and ford of pleafure yet, as at Lifton, extremely obfervant of the
ceremonies of religion, or rather of the etiquette of the Virgin Mary, who
is ftuck up in a glafs cafe at every corner. Cloaks and {words are gene-
rally worn by the men. The ladies have fine dark eyes, with animated
countenances, and their heads are only adorned with their treffes, tied
with ribbons and Howers. The convents and monafteries are numerous,
and the manufactories rare. Labour is chiefly performed by flaves, about
20,000 negroes being annually imported ; even the monks and clergy
keep black flaves. The indigenes are faid to be irreclaimable favages,
under the middle fize, mufcular, but a@tive; of a light brown com.
plexion, with pel, black:hair, and long. dark eyes. The chiefly fubfift
apart, on the coait between Janeiro and San Salvador. Their language
has not been inveftigated by the incurious Portuguefe, who feem deftined
by nature to cover the faults of the Spanith colonifts, and to evince that
even European nations may be found deftitute of knowledge and intel-
ce.
Vhe har*our of Rio Janeiro is eapacious and excellent; and fur.
rounded by a fertile country. It is proteéted by the caftle of Santa
Cruz, erected on a huge rock of granite. On the weft is the city of
St. Sebaftian, commonly called Rio de Janeiro, built on a tongue of land,
the hills and rocks behind being crowned with woods, convents, houfes,
and churches +. Ona fmall ifle are a dock yard, magazines, and saval
ftore-houfes ; and there are feveral other ifles in the harbour behind the
town, The ftreets are generally ftrait and well paved. Water is fup-
plied by an aqueduct on the Roman plan, Yet the fituation of this
beautiful city is faid to be unhealthy; Qwing to the exhalations from the
primitive inland forcfts. There are manufactories of fugar, rum, andy
cochineal ; and feveral diftri&s produce cotton, indigo, coffee, cacao or
chocolate, rice, pepper, and the noted Brazilian tobacco. The red or
Brazil wood is the property of the crown. The natural hiftory has
been little explored : the circumjacent rocks are granitic, white, red, or
deep blue, the laft being of a clofe and hard texture.
Mines.] Concerning the celebrated mines of Brazil! there is little
information. ‘They are principally fituated in the mountains which give
fource to many ftreams that flow north and fouth into the river Tocane
tin, on one fide, and the Parana on the other. The diamond mines are
near the little river of Milboverde, not far from Villa Nova do Principe,
in the province of Serro de Frio, S. lat. according to La Cruz 17° about
long. 44° W. from London. This fingular fubftance is not eestainly
known to be produced in any other part of the world, except Hindoftan,
and chiefly about the fame north latitude 17°3 but the diamonds of
Brazil are not of fo fine a water, being of a brownith obfcure hue. In
the northern provinces of Brazil there are numerous herds of wild cattle,
which are flaughtered for the fake of the hides. The river of St. Fran-
cifco is remarkable for pafling a confiderable way under ground, after it
has attained a great fize.
Botany. } The jealoufy and inertnefs of the Portuguefe government
have effectually prevented any regular and fcientific account of the natural
roduction$ of their vaft and atenk dominions in S, America; and the
tew fcattercd fragments of Brazilian botany are chiefly to be colleGted
® Stanntor, i. 208. t Ib. i, 175. ’
from
try, and the
from the
and from
of Brazil;
the tropic
plantain,
caffava, tc
the numb
{uch as th
repeatedly
Indies, *
goneue fta
food, or tl
ipecies of
the wild c
tion, thou
abundance
the jalup,
for orname
at prefent
Dutch, Fr
might be
are the lo
fatin wood,
are almoft
chia, and |
a moft pro
country,
THe Fre
£635, and ¢
another call
to be exte
the Marano
tent does no
chief town
is commonl
-exceptionab
{wampy itl
poffeffion.
the garrifon
parent coun
and underwo
dry feafon j
winter mont]
ways importe
an indigo,
IN SOUTH AMERICA.
from the journals of thofe navigators who have touched at Rio Janeiro,
and from the Flora Lufitanica of Vandelli, which contains a few plants
of Brazilian origin, The efculent plants are fuch a3 are common to all
the tropical regions of America, among which may be diftinguifhed the
plantain, the banana, the cocoa nut, the chocolate nut, the yam, potatoe,
caffava, together with numerous {pecies of melons and gourds. Of fruits
the number is fcarcely to be reckoned 3 the principal of them however,
{uch as the pine apple, the mango, and the tamarind, have already been
repeatedly mentioned in the account of the botany of the Eaft and Welt
Indies, The warm aromatic plants that are found here-in a truly indi-
gene ftate, and are much ufed by the inhabitants as condiments to their
food, or the bafis of various drinks, are the ginger, the turmeric, feveral
species of pepper, American coffee, capficum or Guinea pepper, and
the wild cinnamon or canella. Several medicinal plants of high eftima-
tion, though not peculiar to Brazil, yet grow here {pontaneoufly and in
abundance ; thefe are the contrayerva, the Indian pink, the mechoacan,
the jalup, the’ tree yielding the gum elemi, and the guiacum. Woods
for ornamental cabinet work, or for the ufe of the dyers, which are
at prefent chiefly furnifhed by the more enterprifihg adtivity of the
Dutch, French, and Englith colonifts of Guiana and the Weft Indies,
might be procured in equal perfection and variety from Brazil; fuch
are the logwood, fuftic, mahogany, ebony, Brazil wood, rofe wood *,
fatin wont and a multitude of others. The merely ornamental plants
are almoft wholly unknown, but the Brazilian myrtle, the {carlet ful.
chia, and the incomparably fplendid amaryllis formofiflima, compofe.
a moft promifing’ fample of the hidden treafures of this delightful
country, 4
FRENCH.
Tue French fettlements in Guiana were firft formed about the year
t635, and extend from the mouth of a fmall river called Amano, W. to
another called Aracara, E.; though recently the limit was attempted
to be extended, at the expence of the Portuguefe, to the eftuary of
the Maranon, On the S. the line feems arbitrary ; but the whole ex-
tent does not exceed 350 B. miles in length, by 240 in breadth. The
chief town is on a {mall ifle called Cayano, whence the whole territory
is commonly ftyled Cayenne. The foil and climate in general feem un-
exceptionable ; but the fituation of the town being ill chofen, in a
{wampy ifle, its difadvantages have been laxly afcribed to the whole
poffeflion. .In the town are about 1200 white inhabitants, exclufive of
the garrifon, This colony feems to have been always negleéted by the
parent country} and the inland parts remain obftruéted by thick forefts
and underwood ; and during the rains many parts are inundated. The
dry feafon is from June till O&ober, and the heavieft rains in our
winter months. The Cayenne pepper is a noted produ& of this coun-
try, and the inhabitants ufing it to excefe, a confiderable quantity is al-
were imported from Peru. Other produéts are fugar, cocoa, vanilla,
and indigo,
® In Brazil called jacarareda,
3B DUTCH,
Sea or
aE a ee at ee SW DIL IEE SIG RELATE ILE EIGER EN Tt See = — ~ ao —- = ~ rn = = = Fare == = 4 > : — — — —— a :
: eo eS ee : : 5 tarp eae oe = = : 23 SST
il Se een in. See 3 x Pere cee = = ; ae Se ee - = os aoa a
738 DUTCH DOMINIONS
DUTCH.
i i i : but four
tch poffeffions in Guiana commenced in 1663
wa feat Pres ie ee eM te nee
eS Re rae Ae pid French faitlement, and is often called Surinam
fan r of that name, on which the capital is fituated. The length
pile . oN.W is about 350 B. miles, along the fhores of the Atlantic :
nl rie Wek is only 162. The chief towns are Paramaribo on the
ae bs nk of the Surinam, alfo called the Zeeland river, and New
Middleb g near the N. W. extremity of the colony: Demerara is a
be had Gh a river of that name. The white inhabitants of the capi-
ee ihe uted at 1800. The largeft river is the Efquivo, N. W.
a ich i ect the fhort ftream of the Demerara. The Berbiz and
pe tii alfo confiderable rivers. The wet and dry feafons alternate,
noe xe e months. No mines have been difcovered by the Dutch,
ie ila nite certain returns; and are far from being in tag oh
F. 4 « contelt the inland parts with the favages, and os Yet
arce he river Efquivo there.is no difficult accefs to the lake o am
a Lobiee of the wifhes of Sir Walter Raleigh *. Bancroft aon
felles h t the never penetrate even the lower forefts. The natives are
ie eddith Set or copper colour, like the other American tribes.
7 ole i wah the coaft are Caribbees, who being called as seat
te ‘ "te refs a negro revolt, devoured the bodies of “ et
The Worse are another maritime tribe; but the Arrowa f the
ke ditti uifhed by elegance of form, and mildnefs of di fpo i
The b lige in a {upreme deity, and in inferior malign fpirits ca led
veri The prieits or magicians are ftyled Peiis, the diftin@ion
mee a no materials for the botany of Guiana prose BF ihe
Nea ‘h * Dutch, and Englifh fettlers, than for any other lh 0 a
pees ; and in confequence of the respi 7 ss gr um : cag i
ie rect i i and w
ee bi reltidak, Pall. “All the ufual tropical Pawo’ eet
a fe an ‘i delight in dry and fandy traéts, are found here in fu per-
thofe sae oily and qualities of thefe however we hall not ean
alo Nak pide to the notice of thofe which are more properly
oeddaite common fpecies of palms, there are two — are gi
| nt eculiar to this part of America, but which, toget sa “ —
eahe ff the native plants of Guiana, have not yet foun i, y
apie Linnzan-fyftem. One of pits Met Stoll p ps wig hi
* i intery wood, of which the fma
; ‘tavkate a n"Dhe coheed the manicole palin, Rainelge yA Pe
oft ferti i it attains the height of fif ’
oe i ‘ e the thichod para is fcarcely nine inches in oe
ae acetite feems to be here in its sense oe as bi? Spee oh »
i y illiancy of colour. e quafiia, .
vente pel Ce of las but too familiar to Englith palates,
‘ ’
: i i ich ri f the lake, and flows
by the river Caroni, which rifes N, 0 he tn flo
tale i Lala "The fands of “his lake were fuppoted to be of gold, wad in the vicinity
th .
eh the febulous golden city Manoa del Dorado.
‘+ Bancroft, 260, so
this part of
and the f
Terra, Fi:
from this
caftor oj]
pivi, and
whofe lea
and have
feet, by 1
not been
thatched
The fing
tree inhab;
kinds, and
nut, from
the ceftair
more certg
equal of ¢}
climbers ca
meafurable
pents, and ;
batten in t!
OME ac
names o
they might
taken place
families mig
recently effed
that Guiana
on the contr;
many of the
nations are dj
merely tribes
arien a min
by Edwards,
mi sale i w
curious detail
but who onl
Grande, whic
The Abipons
them may be
in American
horfes introdu
sobs, Tobas,
inity
and
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 739
and the fimarouba, a medicinal drug of great efficacy, are alfo natives of
Terra, Firma; nor among the materials which the healing art derives
from this country, ought we to omit the mention of the riciuus or
caftor oil nut, the caffia, the palm oil, the cowhage, the balfai of ca-
pivi, and ipecacuanha. An herbaceous plant called troolies, grows here,
whofe leaves are the largeft of any yet known; they lie on the ground,
and have been known to attain the almoft incredible length of thirty
feet, by three feet in width: fo admirable a material for covering has
not been beftowed on this country in vain: moft of the houfes are
thatched with it, and it will laft fome years without requiring repair.
The fingularly eclaftic gum called caoutchous is produced from a large
tree inhabiting French Guiana, and here it is ufed for veffels of various
kinds, and for torches. A fmall tree called caruna yields a farinaceous
nut, from which the flow poifon of the Accawan Indians is prepared,
the ceftain though protracted inftrument of jealoufy or revenge. Still
more certain, becaufe more rapid, is the Ticuna poifon, the dreadful
equal of that from Macaffar: it is prepared from the roots of certain
climbers called nibkees, which inhabit the entangled forefts of thefe im-
meafurable {wamps, and are a worthy fhelter to the panthers, the fer-
pents, and all thofe monftrous and abominable reptiles that generate and
batten in this peitilential atmofphere.
NATIVE TRIBES
AND
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.
pat account of the Peruvians has already been given, and the
names of the favage tribes of South America are fo numerous, that
they might be counted by hundreds. Nor has any claffification yet
taken place according to languages; when probably thefe numerous
families might be reduced to five or fix great denominations, as has been
recently effected in arranging the tribes of Siberia. It was believed
that Guiana contained a confiderable nation, with cities and towns; but
on the contrary, it is divided among numerous tribes, among which are
many of the Caribs or Carribbees, the moft ferocious of favages. The
nations are diftinguifhed from the {trolling families, but even thefe are
merely tribes from two to five thoufand fouls. Of the indigenes of
Darien a minute account has been given by Wafer, and of the Caribs
by Edwards, of the Tehuels or Patagonians by Falkner. A German
pes ning ke who refided twenty-two years in Paraguay, has publifhed’
curious details concerning the Abipons, whom he calls a warlike nation,
_ but who only conftitute a tribe of about five thoufand, on the Rio
Grande, which joins the Paraguay near its union with the Parana.
The Abipons being lefs known to the Englifh reader, fome account of
them may be fele&ted. They are rather a warlike race, and by a novelty
in American manners, chiefly cavalry, fecuring and taming the wild
horfes introduced by the Spaniards; and in the fame quarter the Mo-
cobs, Tobas, and Aucas, are alfo warlike and independent tribes. Ie
this part of America greater fairnefs of complexion feems to prevail,
, : 3B 2 thao
Se ae ee
OS
ot ee I EN Rh RA IIB
ee,
440 NATIVE TRIBES, AND
; ; ‘ delineated
than in the exterior provinces; and the women Byereedt the tint of pear foreig
than ieans. ‘Tne Abipons were ancient] named callegaes by the Spa- gularities
niards, on account of their fingular practice of eradicating the hair over *
their foreheads, fo as to produce the appearance of baldnefs + Sut their
features refemble the European, and the nofe is commoniy >! an aqui-
nitre, abou
the river ]
line form*. ‘They cafefully eradicate the beard, and mari. ihviv fre. iprings 8 "g
heads and temples with particular fears, by way of ornawieit. The ae of the
males are accultomed from childhood to the ufe of the bow. Hunger high mount
alone dictates the time to eat ; and they confume vatt quantities of ani- Ww of Cor
mal food. _Pesfonal cleanlinefs is preferved by frequent bathing in the
lakes and rivers. ‘They have no idea of a fupreme deity, but acknow.
ledge an evil demon whom they commonly attempt to flatter by calling
him their uncle. Their magicians are’ called Keevet, and they have
great power, as ufual among favage tribes, a tribute of ferocity to know-
ledge. Polygamy is allowed, but not frequently practifed ; and the babe
being fuckled to the age of three years, the mothers frequently deftroy
their offspring, that they may devote their attention to their hufbands,
li, and are <
which lies '
{now ; and
Andes, as {
grefs to lat.
They have no idea of a monarch, but are ruied by many caziks, whom ISLA
they call capitas, from a Spanifh term: and are not advanced to the ~ Tarese th
agricultural itate: but they are not cannibals, like fome of the fur- of Galapag
rounding nations. From the thicknefs of the fkin, or fome other caufe, or the iff ,
the {mall pox is pettilential to the indigenes of America. The Abi- The ifle of J
pons chiefly bury their dead under the fhade of trees; and the horfes of
a chief or warrior are always facrificed on the occafion. The bones are
afterwards difinterred, and carried to a confiderable diftance. They have
rendered themfelves formidable to the inland colonifts by their warlike .
fpirit ; and are armed with fpears five or fix ells in length, and with
arrows fometimes pointed with iron.
The extremities of South America, towards the ftrait of Magalhaens,
may, as already mentioned, be regarded as independent. ‘Towards the
eatt are vaft faline plains, called by the Spaniards, Comarca Defierta, or
four leagues
which is div
part is preci
proaching t
_ found on Ju
There are
of this conti
of Guaytec:
the defert territory, whence the defert of Comarca in our maps. The vin gt
natives of this region are defcribed by Falkner, who fays that a cazik divid di ir
of the Puelches or Patagonians with whom he was acquainted, was on the N.
{even feet and fome inches in height. The Moluches form another na- dent of Chil
tion or tribe called by the Spaniards, Araucanos +.. The Puelches, b Ay dae
his account, are divided iit three or four ei the mo futher tien
being the Tehuels, extending on the eaft to the ftraight; as the Hluil- sitarevie ;
liches, a tribe of the Moluches, do on the weft. The Tehuels are the fous Sp 7
proper Patagonians, and. may be called the Tatars of South America, een
being wandering’ warriors, but courteous and humane, The dead monet ‘
among the Moluches are buried in {quare pits, in a fitting pofture, with Tathe se
their weapons and drinking utenfils; and an old matron annually opens feats sien’
the grave to cleanfe and.-clothe the fkeletons, Around are thofe of hiftory, Sir
the flain horfes, fupported with props. The Tehuels, after having
dried the bones of their dead, a them to the defert on the fea
coaft, where they are placed in huts or tents, furrounded by the fkele-
tons of their horfes; but the latter praGtice muft be of comparatively
modern date. Thefe tribes have hereditary caziks, and they fometimes
choofe a commander in chief, whence they are more formidable to the
Spaniards than the northern tribes.“ The fingular afpet of Patagonia,
-amidft the fn
variety of pl
flat faces, h
fkins of feals,
fugar loaf: a
is not howeve
imagined, th
@ Dolrizhoffer, ii. 15. 22, &e. ts while a few {
» The Araucanos, that is infurgents, extend from the river Biobio, lat. 37¢, to the river
Callacalla, lat. 40°, See the map in Molina, Storia Civile deb Chili, Bologna, 1787, 6v0,
: : “ delineated °
£
UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES. 74t
delineated with innumerable ftreams ending in little Iskes, may well ap-
pear foreign to che courfe of nature. Yet this country has many fin-
gularities. There is an immenfe tra&t of abi impregnated with
nitre, about 600 miles in length and 150 wide, on the fouth and weft of
the river Parana, and even to tke. junGtion of the Paraguay, all the
{pringe and rivulets being more or lefs faline. No produ€tive mines have
yet been difcovered ; except {ome of filver,. near Mendoza at the bot
tom of the Andes. The rivers that wath this country all come from the
high mountains of Yacanto, or Sacanto, Champachin, and Achala on the
W. of Cordova, which are little inferior in height to the Andes of Chi-
li, and are a kind of branches of thofe of Peru. That part of the Andes
which lies W. of Mendoza is of a vaft height, and always covered with
{now ; and there are numerous volcanoes in the fouthern part of the
Andes, as that of St. Clement, lat. 46°, and others in a continued pro-
grefs to lat. 31°
ISLANDS BELONGING TO SOUTH AMERICA.
~ Turse fhall be traced from the weft towards the eaft, The defert ifles
of Galapagos have already been mentioned in the account of Polynefia,
or the iflands in the Pacific ; and that of St. Felix is of no confequence.
The ifle of Juan Fernandez, fo called from the firft difcoverer, is only about
four leagues in length, with an anchoring place on the northern ccatt,
which is diverfified with many beautiful tao of trees. . The fouthern
part is precipitous and barren ; but there are fome hills of a red earth ap-
proaching to the colour of vermillion, Many antifcorbutic plants are
. found on Juan Fernandez, which is celebrated in the voyage of Anfon.
There aretwo remarkable archipelagoestowards the fouthern extremity
of this continent. That ftyled the gulfof Chonos, or the archipelago
of Guaytecas; and that called the gulf of the Holy Trinity, or the
archipelago of Toledo, The moft remarkable ifle in the former is that
of Chiloé about 140 B, miles in length by thirty in breadth, but almoft
divided in the middle by bays or creeks, The chief harbour is Chacao
on the N. and-at Calbuco there is a corregidor, nominated by the prefi-
dent of Chili; there are alfo two monafteries and a church *. The ifle
of Chiloé is faid to be well peopled with Spaniards, mulattoes, and
converted favages. .In the fecond archipelago, which approaches the
antar€tic frofts, is the ifland of St.Martin, in which there feem to be
fome Spanih fettlements or factories : and not far to the S. begins that
broken feries of wintry iflands, called the Terra del Fuego, from two or
more volcanoes, which vomit flames amidft the dreary waftes of ice.
Inthe map of LaCruz the Terra del Fuego is divided by narrow
{traits into eleven iflands of confiderable fize. In their zeal for natural
hiftory, Sir Jofeph Banks and Doétor Solander had nearly perifhed
amidft the fnows of this horrible land; byt they found a contiderable
variety of plants. The natives are of a middle ftature, with broad
flat faces, high cheeks, and flat nofes, and they are clothed in the
fkins of feals, The villages con{i{t of miferable huts in the form of a
fugar loaf: and the only food feems to be fhell fith. This dreary region
is not however fo completely oppreffed by winter, as has by fome been
imagined, the vales being often verdant, and enlivened with brooks,
while a few trees adorn the fides of the hills. The ifle called Statens
# Ulloa, ii, 264,
3B 3 land
‘
¥42 NATIVES TRIBES, &e.
land is divided from the Terra del Fuego by the ftrait of Le Maire.
Here alfo Captain Cook obferved wood and verdure. So much more
fevere isthe cold in the antarctic region, that thefe countries only in
ph 55, or that of the north of England, are more frozen than Lapland,
in lat. 70°. 2 i Se
To the N. E. are the iflands called Falkland by the Englifh, but by
the French, Malouins, from the people of St. Maloes, whom they
efteem the firft difcoverers, In 1763 the French, having loft Canada,
turned their attention towards thefe iflands, as an American fettlement
in another quarter ; and the accoynt of Bougainville’s voyage for that
purpofe contains ample details concerning thele iflands, There are two
of confiderable fize, each about 4o miles fquare. The foil and climate
do not appear to be laudable, but there is a confiderable: variety of
fowls and fith; and the plants feem fomewhat to refemble thofe of
Canada. The walrufs, and other animals of the feal kind, frequent
the fhores. In 1764 Commodore Byron was fent to take poffeflion of
thefe iflands, which were undoubtedly firft difcovered by the Enylith;
and a little eftablifhment was made at a place called Port Egmont, but
being found of little or no value they were in a few years ceded to Spain,
The foil is marfhy, and even in fummer there are perpetual ftorn.- ;
and the Spaniards feem only to retain a fmall fa€tory on the north.
In this department may alfo be arranged, an ifland of confiderable
fize to the S. E. of the Falkland iflands, difcovered by La Roche in
1475, and afterwards named Georgia by Captain Cook, who explored
it with fome attention in1775. It thay be called a land of ice, prefent-
ing rocks and mountains of that fub{tance, while the vales, deftitute of
trees or thrubs, are clothed with eternal {now ; the only vegetables bein
a coarfe {pecies of grafs, burnet, ind lichens. The rocks are of blackith
horizontal ftate. The lark, ahardy and univerfal’ bird, appears here as
well as at Hudfon’s Bay, and there are numbers of large penguins and
feals. Still farther to the S. E, are, if poflible, more dreary regions,
ftyled Sandwich Land. Thefe may be efteemed the fouthern throne
of winter, being a mass of black rocks covered with ice and fnow.
Among the feiv iflands to the E. of South America, may be men-
tioned that of Afcenfion or Trinidada, and that of Ferdinando Noronha ;
that of Saremburg may alfo be regarded as an American ifle, whily
Triftan da Cunha rather belongs to Africa.
———K—XK—[=—[=
AFRICA,
Extent. — Original Inhabitanis.— Progrefive Geography. — Religion. --
Climate. — Rivers. — Mountains. — Deferts.
HIS continent is, after Afia and America, the third in fize ; but
in political and ethical eftimation isthe laft and meaneft of the
four great divifions of the earth, From the fouthern extremity to the
Mediterranean are about 70 degrees of latitude, or 4200 G. miles, The
breadth, from 18° weft to 51° eaft, may be afflumed on the equator at
4:40 G. miles. The name is fuppofed to have fpread by degrees from
a {mall province, in the nort} , over the reft of the continent. In the
central parte on the fouth the population appears to be indigenous and
peculiar,
}
oDamascas
wre e\
Jenufster :
218" \ ft APRICAL}
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9 \ Zanzibar | Mood 1° £ men
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Upon the f
A.D. 429,
the followi
Africa ; an
prefent. pop
fome nation
raphy of
er Pole to
Procre
tinent migh
dotus, who:
was no ftrai
the Ethiop:
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Hanno the
cerning the
kiag of Eg
can fhores 1
Leone.
On the e:
to have ex!
nity. But
peers to hav
as fince b
map of Af
Zaarae H
18°, and its
the fouthern
with numer
America. '
tian geogray
to the Nigi
lake, marth.
certainly juf
* Other anc
in Madagafear |
‘The agiual p
AFRICA, 743
peculiar, thefe being the native regions of the negroes, whofe colour,
features, and hair diftinguifh them from all the other races of mankind.
In the northérn parts there have been many fucceffions of inhabitants,
the Egyptians and Abyffinians being of Arabian extra&t ; while farther
to the weft the Carthaginians paffed from Syria: and according to
Salluft, who refers to Punic manufcripts, other maritime parts were
peopled by the Medes, Perfians, and Armenians, The orginal inhabi-
tauts of the northern parts appear to have been, in all ages, radically
diftin& from the negro race, from whom they were divided by the great
defert of Zaara ; and in the eaftern parts the latter were yet farther
repelled by the Arabian colony which fettled in Abyffinia®*, Thefe
northern inhabitants {ent confiderable colonies into Spain ; and from the
Roman hiftorians it appears that they had made fome progrefs in the
arts of life. Even Herodotus is no ftranger to thefe two diftin& races
of mankind.
The Romans appear to have explored the north of Africa as far as
the river Nigir; and they eftablifhed' flourifhing colonies in many parts.
Upon the fall of their empire, the Vandals of Spain paffed into Africa,
A.D. 429, and eftablifhed a kingdom which lafted till A.D. 535. In
the following century the Mahometan Arabs fubdued the north of
Africa ; and urider the name of Moors conftitute a great part of the
prefent. population. There have been recently difcovered in the interior
fome nations or tribes of a copper colour, with lank hair; but the geo-
graphy of this country is too imperfect to admit of precife illuftration
of thefe topics.
ProGResstvE GEOGRAPHY.] The progreffive geography of this cons
tiuent might fupply topics for a long and interefting differtation. Hero-
dotus, whofe African geography has been amply illuftrated by Rennell,
was no ftranger to the northern parts, from Mount Atlas in the weft to
the Ethiopians above Egypt; and fpecially mentions the great central
river or Nigir, as running towards the eaft, Concerning the voyage of
Hanno the Carthaginian the learned have not agreed ; and far lefs cone
cerning the voyage faid to have been = med by the orders of Necho
king ot Egypt. Rennell fuppofes the ancicat knowledge of the Afri+
can fhores to have extended to Sherboro Sound, to the fouth of Sierra
Leone.
Oi: the eaftern fhores the knowledge of the ancients does not appear
to have extended beyond the ifle of Pemba, S. lat. 5°, or the vici-
nity. But ci the interior parts Ptolemy, who refided in Egypt, ap-
ears to have had more precife knowledge in the fecond century, than
cS fince been attained in any age. The moft ftriking defeét in his
map of Africa is, that proper fpace is not left for the great defert. of
Zaara. Hence the fource of the Nigir, lat. 11°, is elevated to lat.
18°, and its courfe approaches the Land of Dates. On the other hand
the fouthern parts of Ptolemy’s map are too much expanded, and filled
with numerous names of fmall tribes, like La Cruz’s map of South
America. ‘The moft remarkable feature in the defcription of the Ezyp-
tian geographer, is the river Gir, which he delineates as equal in length
to the Nigirs but running from eaft to weit, till it be loit in the fame
lake, marth, or defert, as the Nigir. This name of Gir or Ghir, is
certainly juft and native, as there is another river of the fame name in
* Other ancient Arabian colonies feem (o have penetrated fiy to the fouth, and are traced
in Madagafear and the oppofice fhores.
‘The agiual population of Africa cannot exceed thirty millions, or perl.aps even twenty.
3B 4 the
=
ne ee
a .
744 AFRICA.
the country of Tafilet or Sijilmeffa: and it is not a little furprifing that
Rennell, in his theory of thefe regions, fhould have totally omitted thig
ftriking feature. The river Bahr Kulla of Browne appears to be the
Gir of Ptolemy.
It is remarkable that Ptolemy’s defcription of thefe fhores extends
little beyond the Fortunate or Canary iflands, though it may have been
expected, that as one of thefe iflands was affumed as the firft meridian,
their pofition fhould have been pretty accurately determined. If the
ancients had difcovered Cape Verd, it is probable that the iflands called
by the fame name could not have efcaped their knowledge; yet no geo-
graphical inquirer has been led to infer that their geography extended
{fo far; nor do the Arabs appear to have made any difcoveries in this
quarter. Onthe contrary, even the memory of the Fortunate iflands
appears to have been loft, when the Normans of France, a people who
inherited from their anceftors, the Norwegians, a fingular difpofition for
maritime enterprife, again difcovered them in the fourteenth century; and
in 1402 they were conquered by Bethencourt *. This atchievement ap-
pears to have acted as the firft impulfe towards any efforts in that quar.
ter. In 1412 John I. king of Portugal, refolving to retaliate-the at.
tacks of the Moors, titted out a fleet to affail the coafts of Barbary ;
wid a few veffels were difpatched to explore the fouthern part of that
country, as an attack from behind, or in an unguarded quarter, might
reafonably promife more decifive fuccefs. Cape Nun had before been
the utmolt limit of Portuguefe adventure, which was now extended to
Cape Bojador, Prince Henry, the fourth fon of king John, being for.
tunately a lover cf f{cience, fitted out fhips to profecute the difcovery ;
and in 1419 Madeira was difclofed+, and its fertility and exquifite cli.
mate foon invited a {mall colony,
Yet fo flow was the progrefs of difcovery in Africa, that Cape
Bojador { was firft pafled in 1433 §: but the impulfe having become
vigorous, the difcoveries were now more rapid; and in the {pace of a
few years all the coalt from Cape Blaneo to Cape Verd, with the
river of Senegal, was unveiled by the Portuguefe, affifted by Italian
navigators. So important did thefe difcoveries now appear, that pope
Eugene IV. granted a bull of poffeffion to the Portuguefe, of all the
countries which they fhould difcover, from Cape Nun to India. The
iflands of Cape Verd were difcovered in 1446 ||; and the Azores,
which from thet relative pofition ftriétly belong to Europe, were
all known before 1449. Yet in 1463, when prince Henry died,
not above 1500 miles of the coaft of Africa had been vifited; and
the equater was not pailed till 1471. But the difcovery of the
gulf of Guinea, which in the ancient ideas might have been ex-
pected to terminate the continent ; and of the ftill farther fouthern
protrection of the African thore; were far from being inconfiderable
atchievements.
The protection of Jobu IL. king ef Portugal led to ftill farther dif-
coveries, Congo arofe to notice in 1484; and the ftars of another
hemifphere began for the firft time to appear to aftonifhed Europeans,
* Hithoire de ly premiere Defeouverte et Conquefte des Canaries. aris, 1630, Svo.
+ Bergeron, y. 3S, fays that Madeira had been already difcovered by the Knglith,
1944. é
t This word in the Portuguefe fignifies a doubling /hore : in the Spanith /ajar is to com-
pafs or go round, Currents render this whole coalt extremely dangerous; and the fateft
navigation is on the we(t of the Canaries,
§ Robertion'’s America, i, 59, || Robertfon, ib,
Hopes
‘Hopes
embaff:
‘monara
length
arduou
Bartho
try; ay
ern lim
Diaz f
of refit
this gre
promo
as abe
Hope.
Titel
fage a
was far
the fu
paffed
Africa
arrived
eriod
, But
early it
norther
minute
of Lob
f{ettleme
and the
Portug
Jarged t
cumitan
deferts,
of the |
and una
antipatl
Spain, |
fented o
the fma!
and part
tioned,
certaint;
the map
fources
of the .
continen
valuable
mann, v
appoint
adopted
* One
Hakluyt,
shat time
ste Spani
AFRICA. "45
‘Hopes were fon entertained of a maritime paffage to Indias; and an
embafly was difpatched to Abyffinia to fecure the friendfhip of the
Monarch, in cafe the circumnavigation fhould be completed. At
length, in 1486, the conduct of a voyage for this purpofe, the moft
arduous at that time attempted in modern hiftory, was committed to
Bartholomew Diaz, who difcovered near a thoufand miles of new coun-
try ; and at length defcried that grand promontory, the utmoft fouth-
ern limit of Africa. But fuch was the violence of the tempe(ts, that
Diaz found his fleet unfit to navigate unknown feas, where the chance
of refitment was uncertain; and, after a voyage of fixteen months,
this great navigator was conitrained to return, having named the utmott
promontory Cabo Tormentofo, or the Cape of Tempefts ; but king John,
as a better omen, afligned the received appellation of the Cape of Good
Hope. - :
fhealllivencs from Abyffinia having confirmed the poffibility of a paf-
fage and trade with India, another expedition was inftituted, which
was farther ftimulated by the grand difcoveries of Colon in 1492; and
the fuccefs of Vafco de Gama, who, on the zoth November 1497,
pafled the Cape of Good Hope, and explored the eaftern coaft of
Africa as far as Melinda in Zanguebar, whence he paffed to India and
arrived at Callicut 22d May 1498, is recorded as the moft diftinguifhed
period in African geography. .
But that of the interior was deftined to remain in obfcurity, though,
early in the fixteenth century, Leo gave an ample defcription of the
northern parts; and Alvarez who vifited Abyflinia in 1520, publifhed a
minute account of that country * ; which was farther illuftrated by thofe
of Lobo and Tellez. The Portuguefe eftablithed feveral factories and
fettlements in the weft, in order to fecure the trade in gold and ivory :
and the additional title of king of Guinea had been affumed by the
Portuguefe monarchs. The accounts of the miffionaries gradually en-
larged the knowledge of African geography. Yet from peculiar cir-
cumltances that knowledge continues extremely limited: the vaft fandy
deferts, high mountains, impenetrable forefts, the unintermitting ware
of the petty tribes, more f{pirited and ferocious than thofe of America,
and unawed by European troops, or conquelts; and particularly the
antipathy of the African Mahometans, many of them expelled from
Spain, and retaining hereditary rancour againft the Franks; have pre-
fented obftacles almott unconquerable. Recently Browne has difclofed
the fmall kingdom of Fur or Darfur, and fome circumjacent territories ;
and particularly the river of Bahr Kulla, which feems, as already men-
tioned, to be the Gir of Ptolemy. ‘The travels of Park eitablifh with
certainty that the Nigir flows to the eaft, as long before delineated in
the maps of D’Anville, Gendron, and others ; and fhew that its weftern
fources are nearer the fhore than had been imagined. The endeavours
of the African Society at London, to promote the geography of this
continent, deferve the greateit a diuake, and their publications are
valuable records of the fcience. It is to be hoped that Mr. Horne-
mann, who has the advantage of profiting by the advice and even dif.
appointments of his predeeeffors, and feems to have in confequence
adopted the neceflary concealment and precautions, will at leait fucceed
* One of the beit tranfations of Leo is that in Englith by Pory, at the requeft of
Haklayt, with a map and qiditions prefixed, containing elf the knowledge acquired at
that time : London 1600, folie, ‘Phe work of Alvare, was wanilaced from Voruguefe
ato Spavith, Antwerp, 1557, 18m. p. 414.
in
746 AFRICA.
in deteGting the termination of the Gir and Nigir, and in vifiting the
neighbouring cities, particularly Tombuéoo.
Reuicion. &c.] The ruling religion of this continent is the Maho-
metan, which has unfortunately penetrated farther in the interior, than
was at firft conceived ; and has prefented a great obftacle to fuch tra.
vellers as, being unaware of this circumftance, have neglected the dif.
guife and fimulation, indifpenfable amidit fuch a fanatic and intolerant
race. The climate, which in the north is intenfely hot, is rather more
moderate in the fouthern extremity, the antar¢tic pole being more
powerful than that of the other pole. In the centre it would appear
that there is a prodigious ridge of mountains, extending from thofe of
Kong in the weit to thofe of Kumri or of the moon, and thofe of Abyt-
finia in the eaft; the whole range being about N. lat. 10°. And from
this another chain feems to extend, about long. 30° eaft from Green-
wich, in a fouthern direction.
In Africa the want of inland feas is not fupplied, as in South Ame.
rica, by large navigable rivers ; and the fingular deficiency of both may
be regarded as a radical caufe of the ttriking want of civilization, and
flow progrefs of African geography. For inland feas, or navigable
rivers, would have naturally invited commercial intercourfe and foreign
dettlements, on a far larger f{cale than the {mall factories near the coalt ;
and the more fouthern parts might thus have rivalled the ancient fame
of thofe onthe Mediterranean andthe Red Sea. But thefe grand inlets
are rather boundaries of Africa; and there are no navigable waters
which can diffufe commerce and induftry from the fhore to the centre.
It is probable that confiderable lakes may be difcovered near the interior
ranges of mountains; at prefent that of Maravi, S. lat 10°, is the
only one of fuch magnitude as to require notice in a general defcription ;
and even of this there is no certain nor precife knowledge.
Rivers.] The chief river hitherto difcovered is the Nile, which
rifes in the Gebel el Kumr, or mountains of the moon, in a dillri@
called Donga, N. lat. 8°. It is firft known by the name of Bahr el
Abiad, or the White River; and about lat. 16° is joined by the Bahr
el Azrek, or the Blue River; the former tinged, the latter clear ; circum-
ftances which occur in the Maranon, and the Miffouri, in which the chief
ftream is muddy. The Bahr el Azrek or Blue River, was miftaken
for the real Nile by the Portuguefe writers, Alvarez, .Tellez, &c.
pene mifled by the boafting of the Abyffinians: though it was well
nown to the ancients as quite a diltiné river, the Aftapus, flowing
into the Nile from the Coloe Palus, now the lake of Dembea. The
comparative courfe of the Nile may be eftimated at about 20:0 B miles,
thus nearly rivalling the longet Afiatic rivers ; and it is at any rate only
fuppofed to be exceeded by the Ob, Kian Ku, and Hoan Hos as it is
by the Maranon, and probably by the Miffouri, The Nile forms fome
confiderable cataras, the chief being that of Geanadil in Nubia, before
it gains the level of Egypt, after paffing fome rapids to the S. of Syene,
Its other features are iutimately connected with the account of Egypt,
The other chief rivers are the Nigir, and the Gir, the courfe of each
being probably about tooo B. miles. That of Senegal is alfo confider-
able. In the fouthera parts the Zahiror Barbela of Congo, and the
Zambezi of Mocaranga, are the molt confiderable yet known.
Mountains. ] The mountains of Atlas attracted the particular ob-
fervation of the ancients, who fabled that they {upported the firmament ;
and derived from them the celebrated appellations of the Atlantic
Ocean and the Atlantic Ifands. When D’Anville fuppofes that the
greater
greater A
erred by
the great
probably
ufual, ti!
accounts
from Ze
which fee
fiderable
may be
and givin
kingdom
who hav.
primitive
Farthe
called the
the Atlaj
tends a cé
obelifks ¢
ralds fro
quarries ¢
ments.
central cl
the weft «
conjetur
as the hig
pafs E. a
fuppofed
Cape fee:
interfper!
Desri
mente de
haps be |
chief is t!
fhores of
a {pace o
breadth
every ex
various if
yet been
In the
there are
tral ridge
extend ;
from pafl
moft fer
which is
a wide de
Giagas o
are faid {
Cape of
In arr
fhall bet
AFRICA. Ay
greater Atlas of Ptolemy is Cape Bojador, he evinces that he himfelf
erred by extending the ancient knowledge too far to the fouth: and
the greater Atlas would rather feem to be Cape Geer, where the chain
probably terminates, or thence extends in the fame dire@tion, as not un-
ufual, till it conftitute the ifles called the Canaries. In fome modern
accounts this ridge is confidered as dividing the kingdom of Alvyier
from Zeb and Bilidulgerid, that is, the direction is S. W. and N. E.
which feems alfo confirmed by Dr. Shaw, though he acknowledge con-
fiderable difficulties *. So far as the materials will admit, the Atlas
may be confidered as extending from Cape Geer ina N. E. direction,
and giving fource to many rivers flowing N. and S. till it expire in the
kingdom of Tunis. From the accounts of fome French mineralogitfts,
who have vifited the weftern extremity, the ftructure is granitic and
primitive.
Farther to the eaft are ranges of mountains or rather hills, in what is
called the Country of Dates, which cannot be confidered as portions of
the Atlantic range. Along the weftern fhores of the Arabian gulf exe
tends a celebrated ridge partly ef red granite, which fupplied the famous’
obelifks of Egypt ; and of which one mountain was ftyled that of eme-
ralds from the quarries of that gem: in the fame vicinity were the
quarries of the celebrated green breccia, obfervable in ancient monu-
ments. ‘The high mountains of Abyflinia feem to branch from the great
central chair already mentioned, or rather from its jun&tion with that on
the weft of the Red Sea; but the natural hiltory remains unknown, The
conjectural ridge proceeding fouth is fuppofed to terminate about lat. 25°,
as the high mountains on the north of the European colony of the Cape
pafs E. and W., and the Orange River rifing from their northern bafe is
fuppofed to follow a N. W. aud W. direction. The mountains of the
Cape ieem chiefly of blue flate, filiceous fanditone, and granular quartz,
interfperfed with large maffs of granite.
Desrrts.] But the moft ftriking feature of Africa confifts in the im-
menfe deferts which pervade many parts of that continent; and may per-
haps be found to comprife one half of its whole extent. Of thefe the
chief is that called Zaara, or the Defert, by eminence, ftretching from the
fhores of the Aulantic, with few interruptions, to the confines of Egypt,
a {pace of more than furty-five degrees, or about 2500 g. miles, bv a
breadth of twelve degrees, or 720 g. miles. This ocean of fand defies
every exertion of human power or induftry ; but it is interfperfed with
various iflands of different fizes, of which Fezzan is the chief which has.
yet been explored.
In the fouthern parts of Africa, towards the European fettlements,
there are alfo deferts of great extent ; but it feems probable that the cen-
tral ridges of mountains, already indicated, preferve vegetation where they
extend ; and it is underftood that the Portuguefe have been prevented
from pafling the Congo to Zanguebar by ranges of mountains Fill of the
moft ferocious animals, and impeded by that thick thorny underwood
which is peculiar to African forefts, Yet there is probably, as in Afia,
a wide detert table-land between the E. and W. ranges, pervaded by the
Giagas or Jagas, who feem to be the ‘Tatars of fouthern Africa; and who
arefaid fometimes to have roamed from Mozambic to the vicinity of the
Cape of Good Hope.
In arranging the followin brief defeription of Africa, the firft account
fhall be that of Abyffinia, the chief native power, fo far as hitherto dif.
* Travels, 1738, folio, p.18., &¢,
covered,
948 AFRICA,
covered. Thence by Egypt, ina geographical progreffion, the route
fhall embrace the Mahometan ftates in the north, the weitern coatt,
and the Cape of Good Hope. The progrefs fhali then be continued
along the eaftern fhores: nor mutt the noble ifland of Madagafcar be
forgotten. The fmaller iflands, which mutt be arranged with Africa,
are Bourbon, Mauritius, &c.: nor can Kerguelen’s Land be roperly
allotted to any other divifion of the globe. The geoavanhiual topses
then bends tothe N. W. by the St. Helena, the iflands of Cape Verd, the
Canaries, and Madeira. The whole defcription fhall be clofed witha
fummary of the difcoveries, and canjeftures, concerning the central parts
of this great continent,
ABYSSINIA.
Extent. — Original Population. — Progrefive Geography. — Religion —
Government.— Population. — Army.— Revenues. — Manners and Cuf-
toms.— Language. — Cities. — Manufadures and Commerce.— Climate
and Seafuns.— Rivers.—Lakes.— Mountains.— Botany. — Zoology.
Mineralogy.— Natural Curiofities. ;
We, HIS kingdom, which exceeds in antiquity and ftabi-
Extent.) T lity soak Ottiey of the African Wahie, extends about
eleven degrees in length, from north to fouth, that is, about 660 geogra-
phical or 770 B. miles. The medial breadth is about eight degrees of
longitude, in lat. 10°, or §72 g. miles, about 550 Britifh. On the eaft
the chief boundary is the Red Sea : and it is divided from the kingdom of
Adel by an ideal line : on the fouth, mountains and deferts feem to part
it from Gingiro and Alaba, while on the weft and north, mountains and
forefts contlitute the barriers towards Kordofan and Sennaar. It is divided
into provinces, of which Tigri is remarkable for the tranfit of commerce
to the Arabian gulf ; Gojam for the fources of the Aftapus or fabled
‘Nile of the Abyflinians ; and Dembea for a noted lake, and Gondar the
eapital of the monarchy,
ORIGINAL POPULATION. ] Itfeems fufficiently eftablithed, that Abyf-
finia was peopled, at a very early period, by a colony from the oppofite
fhores of Arabia; and the people ftill retain Arabian features, though
their complexions be darker than thofe of their a i ; but they
have neither the fingular conftruétion of the negro fkull, nor other ‘pe-
culiarities of that race*. Inthe year 333 the Abyflinians were converted
.to chriftianity, their general tenets being thofe of the Greek church, re-
ceived from the patriarch of Alexandria ; but they ftill retain the African
circumcifion, a native and oboriginal rite wholly unconnected with religion.
As the Arabs impute every thing marvellous to Solomon, fo thefe their
defcendants, in frequent habits of intercourfe with them, have adopted the
fame ideas, which are ftrengthened by religious fable and tradition. Hence
the Abyffinian kings claim a defcent From: that monarch, in the fame
mode of reafoning as the Arabs deduce the noble genealogy of their
ftceds from the {talls of Solomon. The queen of Sheba, or Saba, in
Arabia Felix, has alfo been transferred to the other fide of the gulf.
# Volney ha «with fufficient precipitation pronounced, that the ancient Egyptians were
negroes, though he had only to look at their defcendants the Copts, at any of their an-
cient gems, or other reprefentations, or even at the mummies themielves to perceive hia
error,
2 Some
Some credit
they allow
and the nat
to chriftiani
Auxumites
and carried
Neguz, or
Homorites
city of Ax
Procre
try may be
who defcrit
Attaboras,
the lake Co
called Axur
ancient and
Rexicio
with fome p
The govern
in the-royal
ing and ro
lofty and fo
ing the po
Alvarez pr
but this eo
By Bruce’s
thirty thou
every tenth
ble, and it {
The royal r
the ufe of »
the rivers,
fold at low |
Manner
plexion ; an
covered with
built of clay
round form,
flight influe
refpected.
petty warfa
pays little a
tifteen centt
barous ftate
vellers affure
live oxen.
fieth, a tafte
Even religic
guy isos
requently r
the evening
common he:
® Gibbon, :
$ Alvares, f
’
ABYSSINIA. #49
Some credulous travellers have fondly adopted thefe idle tales ¢ though
they allow that the Abyffinian annals are dubious, broken and obfcure 3:
and the natives had not even the ufe of letters till they were converted
to chriftianity. From more certain fources it*may be traced that the
Auxumites or Abyffiniaus were confiderably civilized in the fixth century,
and carried on fome trade with Ceylon*, In the fame century the
Neguz, or king of Abyffinia, conquered the Arabian monarchy of the
Homorites in Yemen; and a Roman ambaffador appeared in the- royal
city of Axumé.
ProGRressive GEoGRAPHY.] The progreflive geography of this coun-
try may be traced with tolerable accuracy, from the time of Ptolemy,
who defcribes its chief features, the two longs rivers called Altapus and
Attaboras, now the Bahr el Azrek, and the Tacuzzi or Atbara, and
the lake Coloe or Dembea, with the royal city of Axumé, now a village
called Axum. The Arabian geographers fupply the interval between
ancient and modern knowledge.
Rexicion.] The religion, as already mentioned, is the Chriftian,
with fome peculiar forms and practices, too minute fo be here detailed.
The government is abfolute and hereditary, bot with a kind of ele€tion
in the-royal family ; and the king is faluted | preftration, A ftrik-
ing and romantic fingularity was that the p:. .cs were educated on a
lofty and folitary mountain, a practice long fince abandoned. Concerti
ing the population of this country there feems no authentic evidence.
Alvarez pronounces it one of the moit populous regions in the world 5
but this henna one of the ufual Spanifh and Portuguefe exaggerations.
By Bruce’s account it is extremely difficult to raife the royal army above-
thirty thoufand ; yet in fo barbarous a ftate it might be concluded that
every tenth perfon joins the army. But fo thin a population is incredi-
ble, and it feems probable that it may amount to two or three millions.
The royal revesues confift of the rude produéts of the various provinces,
the ufe of money being unknown, though gold be found in the fand of
the rivers. One of the chief articles is cattle, which are numerous, and
fold at low price.
Manners AND Customs.] The natives are of a dark olive coms
plexion ; and the drefs a light robe, bound with a fath, the head being
covered with a kind of turban +. The honfes are of a conic form, meanly
built of clay, and covered with thatch ; and even the churches are of a
round form, encircled with a portico. Chriftianity feems to hold but a
flight influence over the manners and morals, and the prietts are little
refpeéted. Engaged in the conftant fuppreffion of infurreétions, or in
petty warfare with the furrounding ftates, the government of Abyflinia
pays litgle attention to the pro sre{s of induftry and civilization. ‘After
tifteen centuries of Chriftian ef this country recals the image of the bare
barous ftates of Eyrope in the feventh or eighth centuries. Some tra-
vellers aflure us that, at an Abyflinian banquet, the flefh is cut from the
live oxen. Others however only affirm that the natives are fond of raw
flefh, a tafte not unknown to the people of Tibet, and other countries.
Even religion fometimes bends before the influence of climate, and poly-
gamy isnot unknown among thefe Chriftians, the kings in pence having
requently many wives and concubines. The only meal is commonly in
the evening, and the abftinence of Lent is carefully preferved. ‘The
common heverages are mead and a kind of beer. The neguz or king
® Gibbon, vii. 349, + Poncet in Lockman, i, 930, &e..
$ Alvarez, fol, 200, Lobo, p. 54,
750 ABYSSINIA.
is confidered as the fole proprietor of the land, while private property is
reftricted in moveable goods. The language is regarded as an ancient
offspring of the Arabic, and is divided into various dialeéts, among
which the chief are the Tigrin or that of the province of Tigri, and the
Amharic. The Galanic is alfo widely diffufed, the Galas being a nume-
rous adjacent people, who frequently difturb the public tranquillity. The
phen language is illuftrated by the labours of Ludolf, and feveral
miflionaries.
Cittss.] The chief city in modern times is Gondar, fituated upon a
hill, According to Bruce it contains ten thoufand families, that is about
fifty thoufand fouls: but in the time of Alvarez none of the cities was
fuppofed to exceed fifteen hundred houfes. The palace, or rather houfe
of the neguz, is at the weft end, flanked with fquare towers, from the
fummit of which was a view of the fouthern country, as far as the lake of
Tzanaor Dembea, Axum, the ancient capital, is ftill known by exten-
five ruins, among which are many obelifks of granite, but without hievo-
giyphics. The other towns are few and unimportant. On the rock of
Gefhen, in the province of Amhara, were formerly confined the Abyf-
finian princes ; and Abyffinia in general is remarkable for detached pre-
cipitous rocks, appearing at a diftance like caftles and towns, a feature
alfo ufual in New Chestates and other north eaftern parts of South Ame-
rica. The rock of Ambazel, in the fame province, has alfo been dedi-
cated to the fame political purpofe, both being near a fmall river which
flows into the Bahr el Azrek. The manufactures and commerce are of
{mall confequence, the latter being chiefly confined to Mafua on the Red
Sea. The earthern ware is decent; but though Cofmo de Medici, among
other artifans, fent manufacturers of glafs to the neguz, the Abyffinians
‘ftill feem ftrangers to this, and many other common fabrics.
CLIMATE AND SEASONS. ] The climate is attempered by the moun-
tainons nature of the country. From Aprilto September there are
heavy rains; and in the dry featon of the fix fucceeding months the nights
are cold. Alvarez has long ago remarked that the rife of the Nile in
Egypt is occafioned by the violent rains, which, during the fummer,
deluge the fouthern regions: and he might perhaps have added the
melting of the fnows in the African alps, which give fource to the
real Nile, the Bahr el Abiad ; for as the Atlas is covered with perpetual
{now, which alfo crowns the Andes under the equator, it is probable
that the central ridge of Africa prefents the fame features, and that an
ancient geographer might have been frozen to death in his torrid zone.
Abyffinia is one of the moft mountainous and precipitous countries in the
world 3 but in a few vales the foil is black and fertile. The chief river
isthe Bahrel Azrek, or Abyffinian Nile, which has a fpiral origin like
the Orinoco, ‘The fources were, inthe feventeenth century, accurately
defcribed by Payz, a Portuguefe miflionary, whofe account was pub-
lithed by Kircher and IfaacVoffius, and has in our times been very minutely
copied by Bruce. The chief {pring of the Bahr el Azrek is in a {mall
hillock fituated ina marth. The fources of the real Nile or Bahr el Abiad,
in the alps of Kumri, remain to be explored. Receiving no auxiliary
ftreams ou its long progrefs through Egypt, the Nile is flogularly nare
row, and fhallow, cH i compared with other rivers of far fhe:ter courfe.
The Bahr el Azrek is ftyled by the Abyffinians Abawi, a name of uncer-
tain origin; and is followed by the Tacuz or Tacuzzi; the Aftaboras
of the ancients, as the Abawi isthe Aftapus*. Another confiderable
* The Abawi prefents a remarkable catarat at a place called Alata, uot far from its egrefs
Out ot the lake of Tzaps. The grayd cataragt of the Nile is in Nubia, lat, 22°, a
i venus
ftream i
the weft
Two ot
dire&tior
be loft i
Lak:
from ac
circular
60 B. n
greatly
In the m
In the
chief fo
water m
and Am
Mou:
being at
the Red
Africa f
to the N
other to
sidges
Kew a
elevation
heights |
the fout!
thofe of
dom, wl
mendous
hiftory,
Bora
in the w
materials
ended
{cientitic
feems toc
ing com
he fj
date, the
rack, an
rincipa
cribed,
mountai
(the brug
Britith t
the name
of rhus,
A large
Bruce et
bread.
the trees
Zooxc
countrie
ABYSSINIA. 751
ftream is the Maleg, which joins the Abawi after a parallel courfe on
the weft. Several tributary freams join the Abawi and the Tacuz.
Two other rivers, the Hanazo and the Hawafh, flow in an oppofite
direction, towards the entrance of the Red Sea, but the firft is faid to
be loft in the fands of Adel. ;
Laxes.} The chief lake is that of Tana, alfo called Dembea,
from a circumjacent province. This lake is pervaded by the Nile in its
circular progrefs, as the lake of Parima by the Orinoco, being about
60 B. miles in length by half that breadth, but the extent differs
greatly in the dry and wet feafons, Among other iflands there is one
in the midft called Tzana, which is-faid to have given namé to the lake.
In the fouthern extremity-of the kingdom is the lake of Zawaja, a
chief fource of the Hawafh; and among many fmaller expanfes of
water may be named the lake of Haik, near the royal rocks of Gefhen
and Ambazel. ;
Mountains. ] The mountains of Abyffinia feem irregularly grouped,
being at the junction of that chain which borders the weftern fhores of
the Red Sea, and of that far fuperior ridge which pervades central
Africa from eaft to weft ina N. W.and S. E. direction, giving fource
to the Nigir and the river of Senegal at one extremity, and at the
other to the Gir and Nile. Hence on the eaft fide of Abyflinia the
sidges probably pafs N. and S. and in the fouthern part W. and E.
As in other high ranges of mountains there are three ranks, the chief
elevations being in the middle. On the eaft of the kingdom are the
heights of Taranta; and towards the centre the Lamalmon ; while in
the fouth is the Ganza. Tellez afferts that the loftieft mountains are
thofe of Amhara and Samena, that is, towards the centre of the king-
dom, whence rivers flow in all directions. The precipices are tre-
ay ond and truly alpine. Abyflinia prefents a rich field of natural
hiftory.
Borvany.) The few f{canty fragments of Abyflinian botany contained
in the works of Ludolph, Lobo, and Bruce, are unfortunately our only
materials for the flora of eaftern Africa; nor can thefe be wholly de-
ended upon, as two of the above authors wrote before the exiltence of
Acientitic lation, and the third, befides his ignorance on this fubjeét,
feems too much difpofed to aggrandife his brief catalogue by repreleon
ing common plants as rare and even new {pecies.
The fycamore fig, the erythrina corallodendron, the tamarind, the
date,*the coffee, a large tree ufed in boat-building, called by Bruce
rack, and two {pecies of mimofa or acacia, though probably not the
rincipal trees, are almoit the only ones that have sicher been de-
cribed, The arborefcent euphorbie are found on fome of the dry
mountains. A fhrub, called in the language of the country, wooginoos,
(the brucea antidyfenterica of Bruce and ogg is cslebrated y the
Britith traveller for its medicinal virtues in the difeafe of which it bears
the name, and the cuffo or bankfia of Bruce, which feems to be a {pecies
of rhus, is mentioned by the fame author as a powerful anthelmintic.
A large efculent herbaceous plant analogous to the banana, called by
Bruce enfete, is largely cultivated by the natives as a fubititute for
bread. The papyrus is found here in fhallow plahhes as in Egypt ; and
the trees that yield the balfam of Gilead, and the myrrh, are reprefented
by the above mentioned traveller as natives of Abyffinia,
Zoorocy.] The horfes are {mall, but fpirited, as ufual in alpine
countries. Cattle and buffaloes are numerous. Among wild animals
are
4 ABYSSINIA,
ephant rhinoceros, lion, panther; and it is faid the giraff ov
oe oeeartaiie ” The hyena is ble bennett, and fingularly bold and
ferocious, fo as even to haunt the itreets of the capital in the night.
The extirpation of thefe animals may be impoffible in fo mountainous a
country, but the circumftance indicates a miferable defe& of policy,
There are alfo wild boars, gazelles or antelopes, and numerous tribes
of monkeys. The hippopotamus and crocodile {warm in the lakes and
rivers. Equally numerous are the kinds of birds, among which is the
golden eagle of great fize, but water fowl are rare. The moft remark«
able infect is a large fly, from whofe fting even the lion flies with tre-
pidation, The mineralogy of this alpine eountry muft be interetting,
but it is neglected ‘by the ignorant natives. Gold is found in the fand
of the rivers. There are fome {mall mines in the provinces of Narea
and Damut. Foffil falt is found on the confines of Tigri. It is faid
that there are no gems, and that even the royal diadem is decorated
with imitations ; fome affert that the Abyffinians negle& to fearch for
old or gems, left the ‘Turks fhould be inftigated by the reported
wealth to invade the country. The chief natural curiofities are the
alpine fcenes, the precipitous detached rocks, the cataract of Alata,
and the river Marcb in the N. E. which is faid completely to fink under
ground,
EGYPT.
Extent.— Original Population.—Progrefive Geography. r) a “hee
Government.-— Population. — Revenues. — Manners an 4 lo lan
Language. Cititxy.— Climate. Face of the C ik ‘y.—— Rivers.
Lakes. Mountains. — Botany, — Zoology. — Mineralogy.
ountry, celebrated from the earlieft ages of
Extent, &c.] fh ageorsin pas recently a oes at yey Sh
iti , a and land, is about 500 miles in length fro
ry rhe — Soc i the greater and lefler Oalis, sare half
chat breadth. But this anpeneee is pr eee Beeded be
in fa&t a narrow vale on both fides of the rive N tt
i untains or hills. It feems to have been originally
oars corte parts of Arabia, or from Syria; me “BYP
people d Abyflinians having been in all ages wholly dittin¢t rom : a¢
eal nations of Africa. A late intelligent traveller remarks * that
the C ts, or original inhabitants, have no refemblance of me
lounas ot form. ‘The eyes are dark, and the hair often curled, but
ee ; _gcate degree than is yeaah gh core ore Phas
66 The nofe is often aquiline, and though the lips be “ e eae .
the whole a flrong refemblance may
eo ny og 8 a vilege in the modern Copts, hey that
cohaned in the ancient mummies, paintings, and aig : ria
P ‘on, like that of the Arabs, is of a dufky brown ; and . epre Oh
‘the fame colour in the paintings in the tombs of Ph iS ; t
va flive eography and hiftory of Egypt are familiar to mo fe ers j
Pee ahe chief antiquities have been fo repeatedly deferibed, oe the -
petition would be alike tedious and unneceffary. ‘he chief fcenes
* Browne, p.71, antiquity
‘antiquit
ruins of
there are
- Reuad
but the a
The gov
ariftocrac
pulation
Cairo mz
haps be «
Auyu
manners ¢
of huma
treme, b
their arm
bufinefs ;
writers a
mious die
hovels,
But in th
terefling
often ele;
manufcrip
Cirtes
hira, whic
city throu
its popula
ile, conn
- that ex
ypt. ¢
in vii and
mated at ;
the fun; a
ftench of \
along its ft
ble, and P
‘perty being
water, pub
allotted qu:
‘tain behind
harams, or
‘thofe of th
Good Ho
of that o
are importe
Spices, fron
aves, gold:
drugs. Fr
flannel: fro
-white fave:
Mamelukes
umerous r
countries. /
faltpetre, gu
ere . ff
‘antiquity are the pyramids; and the tombs near Thebes, with many
ruins of temples, and other. remains of ancient cities. At Achmunein
there are curious ancient paintings, the colours being remarkably freth.
- “Rexteron, &c.] The ruling religion in Egypt is the Mahometan 5
but there are many Chriftian Copts who bave their priefts and monatteries,
The government is at prefent unfettled, but will probably return to the
ariftocracy of the Beys and Mamclukes. Mr. Browne eftimates the po-
pulation of Egypt at two millions and a half: of whom the city of
Cairo may contain 300,090 *, The revenue under the Beys might per-
haps be about one million fterling.
ANMERS AND CusToMs, &c.] A general fimilarity pervades. the
manners of Mahometan countries, as the Koran regulates moft {prings
of human life : the fanaticifm againft the Franks or Europeans was ex-
treme, but may perhaps be fomewhat moderated by the recent terror of
their arms. The Copts are an ingenious people, and have great {kill in
bufinefs ; whence they are generally employed by the Mahometans as
writers and accomptants. The heat of the climate enforces an ablte-
mious diet: and the houfes, even at Cairo, are moftly miferably dirty
hovels. The common people are difguitingly filthy in their perfons.
But in the claffes fomewhat more at eafe the Coptic women have in-
terefting features, large black eyes ; and though of fhort ftacurg, have
often elegant fhapes. the Coptic language is now only known ia
manufcripts, the Arabic being univerfally ufed.
Cirtes.] The chief city is Cairo, or in tne oriental enunciation Ka-
hira, which may indeed be regarded as the metropolis of Africa, as no
city throughout this wide continent can perhaps boaft a fixth part of
its population. This celebrated metropolis is on the eaft fide of the
Nile, connected by two fuburbs with the river. On the eaft isa ridge
of that extenfive chain, which accompanies the Nile as far as Upper
Egypt. On the north a plain extends tothe delta, which it refembles
in foil and produGtions, The population, as already mentioned, is efti-
mated at 300,000; but the ftreets are narrow in order to guard againft
the fun; and there is an interior wide canal ftyled the Chalige, the
ftench of which is »ccafionally intolerable, though the chief ftreet pals
along its fhore. The principal mofk is ornamented with pillars of mare
ble, and Perfian carpets, and has a library of manufcripts; yreat proe
‘perty being attached to the foundation. ‘There are.many refervoirs for
water, public baths, and bazars or markets, where each trade has ite
allotted quarter. ‘The houfes are moftly of fand ftone from the moun-
‘tain behind ; and are fometimes three ftories high, with flat roofs. The
harams, or apartments of the women, are expenfively furnithed ; but
‘thofe of the men neat and plain. Before the difcovery of the Cape of
Good Hope the commerce was immenfé ; and Cairo is ftill the centre
of that of eaitern Africa, as Tripoli isof the weftern. From Yemen
are imported coffee, drugs, perfumes, and fome gems; muflin, cotton,
{pices, from Hindoftan ; and the caravans from Sennaar and Fur brin
aves, golddutt, ivory, horns of the rhinoceros, oftrich feathers, gums, an
drugs. From Tunis and Tripoli are brought oil, red caps, and fine
flannel: from Syria, cotton, fil » foap, tobacco: from Conftantinople
-white flaves, Circaffians, or Georgians, the males being the noted
Mamelukes ; with all kinds of brafs, copper, and iron manufatures,
Numerous negro flaves pafs from Cairo to the more northern Mahometan
countries, Among the manufaQtures are fugar, fal ammoniac, glafs lamps,
faltpetre, gunpowder, red and yellow leather, and particularly linen made
‘ @ Browne, p. 71,
3 of
i ian flax. To the N. E. of the city are gardens’ and}:
has of the Gee bar the moultath is of white tet bol avo
and "deRicute of verdure. On Friday a ge a bday! Ae
ladies as a pilgrimage of pleafure. 4
Big age de i dol fed on. the inereafe of the Nile: and
boats, like Venetian gondolas, uf : rahe eh
d irls, and rope dancers ; chie
anne beng che and Poi dr On folemn occafions fireworks
are exhibite 2 ; dria, Rofetta, or Rafehid, and Da
Bh Nincee Bernt pd aire ica mal Thebes 3 and even Girgi,
‘ : ins to- decline. ee
sg eg oH henge Boyce eb seedy sy to be the centre of orientak
We ca the ieaaere of Rome, yet the delta ftill exports great 5
nie iy f rice; and Upper Egypt fupplies fome cargoes of w ee 4 ha
Sarr . to Syria,*and coffee and black flaves to Conftantinople. He ther
is 1 f Santee are already. enumerated in the defcription o a vai
Ale and) ‘a wan the chief feat of European trade, which yi pa e y
A chia ri Cairo. Particular exports were carthamus and fenna:; a
an ei ht hundred bales of European broad cloth were imported, e
a "1 of Damiata is of {mall confequence, "i tay vain
ay ot IMATE. ] The climate of Egypt is acl wade et i tale ? or
: : . e heat is alfo » pars
moe i ny ng Posnnber » while the cool feafon, <i : aa of
Fahd, ¥etith through the other months *, The chief mala y. ak
{pring, ex akasts of the eyes, and blindnefs.is very common in Egyp .
to be ' we ofe that this proceeds from the extreme seep ho’ A ae
rt % 4 the air is continually impregnated with very fine i Oke
she i abounding in nitre, the efe& is the more acrimoniou Puped
the foi f fleeping in the open «ir, upon the i bgen expo e er
nie Barca deve may however be segarded as the ae ad wy ae
Sine ere et fe
ite. houfes, an the pale erts.
han Sere onesie fuppofed pies a ander od ota
ge 3 in Egypt it is fuppefed to
frou Coniantianghe The eanenis heat hops it here, as effeCtually as.
Sse a ats cuter] The goed two he Sem vl
: : i t is otherwife rather flat and un .. -
- Peer tulated ie the dulert while the delta prefents a PES be
cabaslons and inundated meadows. The conftant td are wl aes .
Sethe date tree becomes tedious 5. Oe Neus arenes ab a ea
ble variety... ar the , d
groves prefent an agrees narrow fertile wale, pervaded by the Nile, an
bee ed ow ‘ber fide by arren rocks and mountains, Rah ares a
pte tan are chiefly on the eaftern bank ; behind which are Ae bi 1
of smeneaion extending to vie’ gull, por years Pit d by
Imoft deftitute of water, ;
Bedcaine ‘i ee thee ppourases 2 a folita Pe eB aegis sd
f ft the hills lead to a vaft fa ’ .
Ly se Ole . iene applied to iflauds fituated in fand. bal ater
se of Egypt, under the inundation of the Nile, has rere rh cS
math NM Dall than hiftorically, the pi€ture only appiying ‘ae lands
ren de ‘ while in other diftri&ts there are fome canals, but the
r @ Volney, i. 676
‘Appearance
defert nea
branch of
waters,
ranging al
and the R
* Nile, they
‘called §;
calcareous
rock oa w
the mount
paffing tow
terrific app
and green,
Bre gen
foil in
mould,
When |
feet by
Syrene,
appear,
ne ind
vegetab!
Ing Ww
Afia or
lentils,
The ten:
the expii
Rive
the gene
One-third
reams it
rater of
when it c
The river
having be
pereieilae
ried tc
. Lakes
ypt, tl
the ea b
that of |
feém unk
by the fa
fo that th
cent theor
dria, has
curious di
be about
tiquity be
The Natt
their prod
Moun
EGYPT. ; 7S5-
ate generally wateyed by machines. According to a late traveller, the
foil in general is fo rich as to require no manure. It is a pure black.
mould, free from ftopes, and of a very tenacious and untuous nature,
When left uncultivated it is liable to be cracked to the depth of feveral
feet by the intenfely hot rays of the fun*. From Cairo to Affuan, or.
Syrene, a diftance of about 360 miles, the banks, except wheré rocks
appear, prefent no native plant, but rife as it were in fteps, as the Nile
has in different ages worn its way, and are fown with various efculent
vegetables. ‘T'he agriculture. is of the fimpleft kind, the chief article.
, being wheat, with barley for the horfes; oats being {carcely known in
Afia or Africa. In the delta rice is the chief grain; with maize and
: Jentils. The lands chiefly belong to the government or to the mofks,
. The tenants are not reftridted to the foil ; but are at liberty to move on
the expiration of a kind of leafe, |
. Rivers.] The only river of Egypt is the Nile, already-defcribed in.
. the general view of Africa. ‘Its greateft breadth even here, is about
y onesthird of a mile; and the depth about twelve feet; for; receiving no
a ftreams in Egypt or the Nubian deferts, it bears little of the ufual cha-
e raéter of rivers that pervade fo extenfive acourfe. The water is muddy
when it overflows, of a dirty red; and cloudy even in April and May.
n The river begins to rife about the roth of June, the Abyffinian rains
T= having begun in April; and it ceafes in OGtobers It abounds with fifth,
of pore y kinds of falmon and eels, “Ihe crocodile is at prefent ree.
ns _ ftri@ted to the fouth of Affiut.. ;
te \ Laxes.) There are feveval extenfive lakes in the northern parts of
of Egypt, the largeft being that of Menzala whith communicates with
nd the fea by one or two ontlets. Next is that of Berelos, followed by;
he that of Elko, Thhefe ftagnant waters at the mouths of the Nile.
to: feém unknown to Ptolemy, and to have been produced, or enlarged,
nd by the fandy depofitions of the river havin vaifed the bed of the fea,
ree fo that the delta is diminifhing, inftead of ‘being increafed, as fome ree
he cent theories affirm. The lake of Mareotis, on the fouth of Alexan-
re dria, has however become almoft dry. The lake called Kerun, in a
ed curious diftri& of Egypt forming an excrefcence to the welt, feems ta
ae be about thirty miles in length and fix miles in breadth; and has no
: ‘appearance of being artificial, as fome fuppofe, the Moeris of an-
es tiquity being probably the Bathen, a long deep canal to the 8.E.
2 Se The Natron lakes muft not be forgotten, being fo called from
vee their prodiciion of natron or mineral alkali, They are fituated in the
alm defert near a remarkable channel, ‘fuppofed to have been angiently a
ee branch of the Nile, and ftill called the Bahr Belame, or river without:
yp ‘waters.
and Mountain J The mountains have been already defcribed ag
and ranging along the banks of the Nile, but chiefly between that river
and the Red Sea. In Lower Egypt, and on the weltern fide of the
.. Nile, they feem to be chiefly of calcareous fand-ftone, or what is
vealled freesftone. The git are are generally conftructed. of a foft
calcareous free-ftone, full of thells, like that ufed at Bath; and the
rock oa which they ftand is of the fame fubftance+. In Upper Egypt
the mountains towards the Red Sea are porphyreous and granitic. On
pafiing towards Coffeir the rugged and lofty rocks have a grand and
terrific appearance, confifting chiefly of red granite, and porphyry red
and green, the latter being the ophite or fnake-ftone of the ancient»
® Browne, p. 64 + b.378: .
3C 2 Here
756 EGYPT.
Here is alfo found the celebrated: green filiceous breccia above men«
tioned ; it arifes in the neighbourhood of ferpentine, under a blue
fchiftus. There are alfo red arid other marbles, Near Syene, Po-
cocke obferved the quarries of red granite, whence the ancient obelitks
were dug; their great length being hollowed out from the rock, in the
pli of iteps, for the convenience of working, and eafy carriage to the
ile.
- Borany.] The rich valléy of the Nile has been for fo many ages
under the dominion of man, and can boaft the proud fucceffion of fo
many hundred harvetts, that it is by no means eafy to diftinguith its
native vegetables from thofe which have been introduced at various pe-
riods for profit or pleafure, and have gradually naturalized themfelves
in the foil of Egypt. Wherever the annual inundations extend, a num.
ber of feeds, brought down by the torrent from Ethiopia and Abyfiinia,
muft be depofited together with the fertilizing mud, which, vegetating
regularly every year, are probably miftaken for truly indigenous plants,
We fhall therefore mention fuch of the Egyptian vegetables as are of
moft importance, either by their prefent Mia or ancient fame, without
being very folicitous to examine whether they are real natives or natu.
ralized ftrangers.
The lotus and papyrus have always been the appropriate decorations
of the god of the Nile: the former of thefe is a f{pecies of water lily,
which at the retreat of the inundation covers all the canals and fhallow
ools with its broad round leaves, among which are its cup-fhaped blof-
oms of pure white, or czrulean blue, repofing with inimitable grace
on the furface of the water. The papyrus, facred to literature, after
having long vanifhed from the borders of the Nile, has at length been
again recognifed on its banks, and in the fhallow plathes of the delta.
he arum colocafia of ancient fame is ftill cultivated in Egypt for its
Jarge efculent roots. The Egyptian fycamore fig, probably introduced
from the oppofite fhore of Arabia, is of peculiar value from its fruit,
its depth of fhade, and the vigour with which it grows, even on the
fandy frontiers of the defert. "The date palm, the piftachia, the orien-
tal plane, and the bead tree, adorn the fhore, and are cultivated in the
vicinity of molt of the towns. The cyprefs overfhadows the burial
grounds, and the caper buth roots itfelf in the ruins of Egyptian,
Greek, and Roman civilization. ‘The fenna, the mimofa nilotica, and
the henné, are alfo characteriftic of Egypt ; from the latter of thefe
the women prepare that yellow dye with which they tinge the nails of
their fingers. All.the moft exquifite of the European fruits, fuch as
the almond, the orange, pomegranate, fig, peach, and apricot, are cul.
tivated here with great affiduity and fuccels ; the various kinds of me-
Tens and gourds grow to full perfe€&tion, and compofe no unimportant
ttion of the food of the inhabitants; and mingled with thefe pro-
uctions of the temperate regions are found the plantain, the fugar
cane, the cotton, and a few others, 'that have formerly been imported
hither from the tropical climates. ee
Zoorocy.] The animals of Egyp + phe repeatedly defcribed.
A. French naturalift feems recently 4A ‘demonttrated from the fize
of the bones, and other circumftances, that the noted ibis of the en-
cients was not a kind of ftork, as commonly eoaoree, but “$curlew.
The mineralogy of Egypt is not opulent,. nor does it feem ever to have
roduced any of the metals. A mountain towards the Red Sea is
yled that of emeralds; and even now the beft emeralds are by the Per-
fians called thofe of Said or Upper Egypt :-but the mines are no longer
‘ae worked,
habited
M
HE
0.
from hve
of Egyy
but ag
bein )
Arabian
where re
about th
the Fati
reigned a
and A.D
who hel
only dat
continued
a3 immec
condu& ;
garde
EGYPT. 757
worked, and even the {pot feems unknown. Befides the natron lakes,
there are fome mineral {prings, and one of falt water near Cairo, which
is {uppofed to have medical virtues. The whole country may be re-
bi as one natural curiofity.
Between Egypt and Abyfiinia is an extenfive traft, about 600 miles
in length, and 500 in breadth, by the ancients ftyled Eruiopia, but
more precifely by the Arabian geographers called Nuaia. The ifle of
Merog was formed by the junétion of the Aftaboras with the Nile;
and it is not improbable that a fouthern channel, defcribed by Ptolemy, .
may fince have basin dried up by the encroaching defert. The greatett
part of Nubia is occupied by wild deferts on the eaft and weft: but on
the Nile ave two ftates of fome little confequence, Dongola on the
north, and Senaar on the fouth. Senaar was in a ftate of fervile war,
the flaves having ufurped the government, when Mr. Browne vifited
Darfur. Bruce defcribes his interview with the king, or rather chief,
and his diftinguifhed haram. In Auguft and September the country
around the city prefents a pleafant verdure: but the people are deceitful
and ferocious, The general drefs is a long blue fhirt; arid the food
moftly millet, though there be no want of cattle. Dongola does not
merit a defcription ; and the whole of Nubia is a miferable country, in-
habited by a miferable people *.
MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE. NORTH.
; Tarrpoti.— Tunis. —ALGisr.— Morocco.
by i are Tripoli, Tunis, Algier, and Morocco. OF thefe Tri-
poli is moft extenfive and the leaft known. The territories reach
from the gulf of Cabes, the leffer Syrtis of antiquity, to the confines
-of Egypt, being chiefly the Africa Proper, and Lybia of the ancients;
but a great part is defert. Tripoli does not appear to be ancient,
being perhaps the port of Pifidon of Ptolemy. The metropolis of
Arabian Africa was Cairoan, about fifty miles to the S. of Tunis,
where refided the governors appointed by the califs ©: Yamafcus ; and
about the year 8co0 they aflumed royal authority, avi the dynatty of
the Fatimites paffed from Africato Egypt. ‘The Zeirites afterwards
reigned at Cairoan. Tripoli was befieged by the Egyptians, A.D. 877,
and A.D. 1050, In 1146 it was feized by the Normans from Sicily,
who held this coaft till 1159. The power of the Turks is recent,
only dating from 1514, when Barbaroffa feized Algier; but it has
continued more peculiarly at Tripoli+, where the Bey was confidered
a3 immediately fubje& to the Porte, a ‘Turkith pafha {uperintending his
conduct sand the combined taxations have effe&tually ruined the coun-
# See the Travels of Poncet, a French phyfician, 1698, in Lockman’s Travels of the
Jefuits, i. 192. Near Sennaar were forefts of acacia, full of nets,
+ The eanperor Charles V. took Tripoli, and refigned it to the knights of Malta, who
foon tuft this poffeffion, but their proximity has ftifled the piracy of the Tripolitans, In
1686 this city was humbled by the bombardment of a French feet, and fent an embally
of Submillion to Lovis XIV, T ee
j 3C 3 ‘ ty
Site ie
| on
758
. ¥Yecent account,
being called the mountains of Megala
mineral productions are alabatter, cryttal,
', are fall
‘merce with France was confiderable.
with few variations.
‘which ftill fubfi
ftom Herodotus and the Pasian |
Shaw, p. 68, ign
MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH.
try. Famine is alfo no unufual circumftance ; and the ‘depredations of
the Arabs form an additional calamity. The town of Tripoli is in a
low fituation, but to the §. are plantations of date trees and verdant
hills, which relieve the tamenefs of the {cene, It isin a ftate of rapid
decay, {carcely four miles in circumference, and thinly peopled ; the ane
cient caftle, though ftill the refidence of the reigning family, being
in a ruinous condition. At prefent the Bey feems to be honoured or
difgraced with the title and funétions of patha; while the prince’s eldeft
fon has the title of Bey. ‘Even the tributary Arabs are often in a ftate
of infurre€tion ; and the month of December, when the grafs begins to
prefent fufficient forage, is a common feafon of warfare. There are
-Olive and date trees, white thorn, and Spanifh broom ; but the fields of
Brain are few and {canty. Towards Mefurarta the vegetation is more
uxuriant ; but of the ancient Cyrene, an interefting {pot, there is no
b
Next on the weft is Tunis, the central region of northern Africa, the
weftern part of the proper Africa of antiquity, and formerly the chief
‘feat of Carthaginian power. In the middle ages Tripoli was fubje& to
Tunis, which was feized by Barbaroffa in 1533.
Bey of Tunis refides in the northern part, and in winter retires to the
fouth, where there is a lake of confiderable extent, the Palus Tritonis
“of antiquity. The chief river is the Mejerda, the Bagrada, of claffical
yepute. The chain of Atlas feems here to terminate, in Cape Bon,
Uzelett, &c. Among the
oles, iron, lead. The cattle
and flender, and the horfes have degenerated. The theep of
Zaara are as tall as fallow deer. There are lions, panthers, hyenas,
chakals, and other ferocious animals. The manufactures are velvets,
filks, linen, and red caps worn by the common people.
Tunifians are renowned as the moft polite and ciyilized among the Ma-
hometans of Africa, a character for which they are probably indebted
co the fituation of their country, for many ages the feat of the chief
‘Afriean powers. The ruins of Carthage, not far to the N.E. of Tunis,
have been accurately illuftrated by Dr. Shaw *. The town of Tunis is
about three miles in circumference, containing about ten thoufand
houfes, or perhaps 50,000 fouls. The chief exports feem to be woollen
ftuffs, red caps, gold duit, lead, oil, Morocco leather; and the com-
In the fummer the
In general, the
-Algier may be regarded as the laft Mahometan ftate on the Mediter.
-yanean, for Horeots is chiefly extended along the Atlantic. In the
thirteenth century Africa was firft divided into thofe petty royalties,
In 1514 Barbaroffa feized Al-
rier, which afterwards became a noted feat of pirates; and one of the
eys candidly declared that the country was a neft of robbers, and he
«was their chief. ‘This city is f{uppofed by Shaw to be the ancient Ico.
fium, and is not above a mile and a half in circuit, while the inhabitants
“are exaggerated to more than a hundred thoufand +: but probably half
‘that number would be nearer the truth. It is ludicrous to behold this
‘ power exacting tribute from the maritime ftates of Chriftendom, while
two fhips of war, maintained at the general expence, might block up
‘the port, and extinguifh the claims and the piracy. The chief river is
© This city was founded abeati.3 80 te 1399 years before the biith of Chrift, os appears
the
the She
from th
nala of |
gier chi
ancients
Atlas, «
count of
the weil
the higt
and S.V
fnow di
S.E. of
The pre
‘are man
the lak
and eart
OF tl
count hi
medical
wf ‘the y
kingdon
ikingdon
arifen in
yg tin
e is |
Mahom
of Fez
fovereig
joined tc
‘the hou
the Spa
mof pc
ous peo
Atill be
policy,
_ Up with
powers
Atlas h
many d
of the
breezes
the tow
the wa
Mame to
and, fed
chiefly
of bits
der, an¢
all ferve
flew, i
* Betw
‘govered w
+
which rec
‘MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH. 789
the Shellif, rifing from the northern fide af the Atlas, as the Wal Jedi
from the fouthern, and afterwards bending to the weft, being the Chi-
nala of antiquity, while:the latter iethe Zabus. ‘The kingdom of Al-
gier chiefly comprifes the Numidia and part of the Mauritania of the
ancients, being bounded on the S. hy Getulia and the chains of the
Atlas, called Lowat and Ammer; which are, however, by Shaw’s ac-
count of {mall elevation, and the grand ridges of the Atlas are towards
the weit, in the kingdom of Morocco*, ‘The mountain of Jurjura is
the higheft in Barbary, being about eight leagues in mgt ina N.E.
and S.W. direction, full of rocks and precipices, but only covered with
{now during the winter. This mountain is about 60 B. miles‘to the
S.E. of Algier, and perhaps forms a part of the real Atlantic chain.
The productions are in general the fame with thofe of Tunis. There
are many falt rivers and {prings, and there is a mountain of falt near
the lake, called Marks +: there are likewife feveral mineral {prings ;
and earthquakes are not uncommon.
Of the aunpints or rather kingdom of Morocco, an interetuag ace
count hae lately been publifhed by an Englifh traveller, who from his
gmedical character had accefs even to the harams of the king, and one
of the princes. This nominal empire confifts indeed of feveral {mall
kingdoms, as the old Englith monarchy was compofed of the feven
‘kingdoms of the heptarchy; but the ftyle of emperor feems to have
arifen in the fourteenth century, when the fultan of Morocco was for a
Short time fovereign of all the northern ftates of Africa. The proper
Atyle is that of fharif, or theref, derived from a fuppofed defcendant of. -
Mahomet, who feized the {ceptre about the year 1500. The kingdom
of Fez has been united to Morocco, fince it firft became an independent
fovereignty in the thirteenth century; while that of T'remefin was
joined to the deydom of Algier. The fovereigns of Morocco being of
the houfe af Merini, they were ftyled Al Merinis, and corruptly by
the Spanifh, and other authors, kings of Balmerin, being latterly the
moft powerful of the African princes. In the hands of an induftri-
ous people the kingdom of Morocco, or ancient Mauritania, might
ftill be of confiderable importance: but, from ignorance and want of
policy, the weftern harbours are, by Mr. Lempriere’s report, blocked
_ wp with fand; fo that Morocco may be effaced from the lift of maritime
powers or pirates. There are heaths of great extent; and the ridge of
‘Atlas here difplays its lofty fummits Ae mott extenfive wildnefs ; but
pi ae Hy shone are fertile, particularly that of Tafilet on the S. E. fide
of the Atlantic ridge. In the fummer months the heat is tempered by
breezes from. the Atlas, always clothed with fnow. The Moors of
the towns are fomewhat civilized, particularly the mercantile tlafs, and
the wandering Arabs hofpitable; but the Brebes or Brebers, who gave
name to Barbary, are a fierce and obftinate race of the ancient natives 5
and, fecure in the mountainous ‘recefles, defy the government, being
chiefly ruled by eleGive theiks, The univerfal food is co/co/u, confifting
of bits of pafte about the fize of rice crumbled into an earthen colane
der, and cooked by the fteam of boiled meat and vegetables, which are
all ferved up together in an earthen dith, with butter and f{pices. This
ftew, in which nothing is loft, even the fteam being received by the
* Between Cape Spartel and Arzilla the inland mountains are obferved from the fea,
‘govered with fnow even in May. Sail, Dir. p. 2.
“What the Moos call Shott or Shatt is a fandy plain, but fometimes overowed, and
which receives five finall tivere, Shaw, 114. ; ”
(304) _ paltey
760 MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH.
pafte, is the favourite meal of the peafant and the monarch. The do-
meftic animals are much the fame as thofe of Europe, except the camel 5
and dromedaries of great’ {wiftiiefs are procured from Guinea. The
oxen and fheep are {mall, but well flavoured: fowls and geons plenti-
ful, but ducks rare, and geefe and turkeys unknown. here is plenty.
of game ; and ftorks are common, being free from moleftation. inthe
ridge of Atlas there are mines of iron, negleéted by the untkilful
Moors; but copper is wrought near Tarudant. The Portuguefe for.
merly held feveral places on the coaft, as Santa Cruz in the S. and Tan.
ier in the N.; while the Spaniards ftill retain Ceuta. The chief Ma.
outa port is Tetuan, which is rather an open road ; but the town is
in a picturefque fituation, and the people particularly friendly to the
Enzlifh. The city of Morocco is fituated in a fertile plain, variegated
with clumps of palm trees and fhrubs, and watered by ‘feveral lucid
ftreams from the Atlas: the extent is confiderable, furrounded by very
ftrong walls of tabsy, a mixture of ftone and mortar which becomes as.
hard asrock. The chief buildings are the royal palace and the moks =
and there is a confiderable jewry or quarter inhabited by Jews. The
palace confifts of detached pavilions, as common in the eaft; and even
the mokks are {quares with porticoes, like that of Mecca, the climate not
requiring a covered edifice like our churches, or the Turkith mofks,
often originally chriftian edifices, The drefs of the Moors is rather fin.
gular; and the ladies not only paint their cheeks and chins with deep
ved, but make a long black have on their forehead, another on the tip
of the nofe, and feveral on the cheeks. The womea of the haram ate
ignorant and childifh, their employments being chatting in circles and
eating cofcofu.
Borany.] The territory now occupied by the Barbary or piratical
ftates, extending from the frontiers of Egypt to the Atlantic acean in
one direGtion, and from the Mediterranean Sea to the Great Defert in
the other, includes a tract of country proverbiat in better times for its
never failing fertility. The foil, partaking of the general character of
Africa, is light and fandy with intervening rocks, though the vales of
Mount Atlas, and of the fmall ftreams that defcend into the Mediterra~
Nean, are overfpread with a deep rich well watered mould. Hence it
is that the moft charatteriftic of the indigenous vegetables are fuch as
flourith on the open fhore, or root thefel és in the driving fand; while
the plants of rareft occurrence are the natives of marfhes and forefts.
Many of the faline fucculent fpecies, a few of the bulbous-rooted, to.
gether with various kinds of tough long-rooted graffes, intermixed here
and there with the heliotropium, foldanella and eryngo, overfpread the
flat arid fhore, and prevent it from drifting with every wind. The dry
and rocky intervals between the valleys of the interior bear a near re-
femblance to the heaths of Spain: like thefe they abound in fcattered
groves of cork trees and ever-green oaks, beneath whofe fhade the fage,
the lavender, and other aromatic plants are found abundantly and in
high perfection. The arborefcent broom, the various {pecies of ciftus,
the mignonette, the fumach, the tree heath, together with the aloe,
agave, and feveral kinds of euphorbia and cactus, all of them patient
of heat aud drought, adorn the interrupted rocks, and afford both food
and fhelter to the goats by which they are inhabited. The valleys and
glens are profufe of beauty and fragrance § befides the bays the myrtle,
the pomegranate, the olive, the jalmine, and oleander, which are com-
mon both to Africa and the fouth of Europe, we find here, in a truly
wild ftate, the Aleppo pine,, it red juniper, the date-palm, the
i 12 Ghia,
tion; »
Darbar:
JALOFS
N
ti
rica. J
Senegal
proper!
aves, ¢
Charles
of the
Portug
dingos,
old co
or the
. 800,000
The c
accefs t
kingdor
and pre
To the
or tribes
the nort!
intereft ¢
Yalofe a
of the ne
fociable ¢
but their
the river
® Acca
it tho
eu
+ Edwar
qhout forty
oS 8 OSS OO 8
+t. -_
MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH. 961
chia, the orange, and, fuperior even to the orange bloffom in odour, the
white mu& rofe.
To the fouth of thefe chief Mahometan ftates are feveral countries
little explored, as Drah, Sijelmiffa, or Segulmeffa, and the Land of
Dates *, fo called becaufe that fruit conftitutes the chief food of the
inhabitants, Fezzan is a large and remarkable oafis in the north of the
at defert. The more central parts will be briefly illuftrated towards
the conclufion of this fhort defcription of Africa. Suffice it here to —
obferve that, with a few exceptions of the more barbarous diftri&ts, the
Mahometan faith extends to the great central ridge of mountains, or
within ten degrees of the equator: and wretched muft thofe regions
have been into which Mahometans could introduce induftry and civiliza-,
tion; while in Europe and Afia they are the fathers of deftruction and
parbarifm. ‘
Ee
THE WESTERN COAST.
Jarors, Fourans, and other Tribes—Benin.—Loanco.—Conce.
N this fide of Africa, fo far as hitherto explored, are innumerable
tribes, as little meriting particular defcription as thofe of Ame-
rica. The Jalofs or Yolofs and Foulahs are the chief races on the rivers
Senegal and Gambia; while Guinea, divided into the Grain, or more
roperly Windward coaft, Ivory coaft, and Gold coaft, chiefly fupplies
eg a trade which commenced in 1517, by a patent from the emperor
Charles V. obtained at the inftance of Las Cafas, the noted prote&or
of the American favages. The fettlements in’ Guinea are chiefly
Portuguefe ; and the flaves from the river Senegal are called Mane
dingos, from an inland country of that name; while thofe from the
old coaft are called Koromantees; and thofe towards Benin Eboes +.
or thefe flaves Britith goods have been exported to the annual value of
. 00,0001.
The countries of Benin and Calabar, which feem to afford the eafieft
accefg towards the interior are followed by other favage tribes. The
kingdoms of Congo and Angola are celebrated in Portuguefe narrations,
and prefent the moft interefting objects in this wide extent of territory.
To the fouth of thefe there fallen obfcurity till we arrive at the nations
or tribes called Great and Little Nemakas, and Kaffers or Kouffiz, on
the north of the European colony of the Cape of Good Hope.
The repeated defcription of the :nanners af negro tribes would little
intereft the reader, and only a few peculiarities thall be remarked. The
Yalofe are an active and warlike race, and efteemed the moft handfome
of the negroes. The Mandingos are widely diffufed, and of a mild and
fociable difpofition. They wear cotton frocks of their own manufactures
but their hats and furniture are of the fimpleft kind. The Foulahs near
the river Gambia, are chiefly of a tawney complexion, with filky hair ang
® According to fome, Biledulgesid implies the Land of Dates; but Dr. Shaw, p. s,
fays it thould be Blatd at Jerid or Dry Country. In Arebic it would feem the Land of
Dates is Guaten Tamar. ;
+ Edwatde’s Weft Indies, ii..50. The forts and factories Lelonging co Europeans are
qhout forty; 25 Dutch, 14 Englith, 4 Porwuguele, 4 Danith, 3 Fronch. Ib, 53.
pleafing
4
+
963 ' THE WESTERN COAST.
ron features, being probably tribes that fled from Mauritania. The
oulahs of Guinea are‘of a very different defcription, and the identity
of name ought to shave been avoided, Teembo, the Capital of the
fatter, contains about 7000 inhabitants; and there are iron mines worked
by women, befides fome manufactures in filver, wood, and leather.
efe Foulahs, it is faid, can bring into the field not lefs than 16,c0@
eth and, being furrounded by twenty-four pagan nations or tribes,
thefe Mahometans never hefitate to make war for the fake of procuring
flaves. To the weft of thefe Foulahs is the Englith fettlement of Sierra
Leone, formed in 1787, for the benevolent purpofe of promoting
African civilization.
At the other extremity of this coaft are the Nemakas, whofe man.
ners have been illuftrated by that romantic enthufiaft Le Vaillant, who
alfo pretends to have obferved other tribes called Korakas and Hou.
zouanas the latter being, by his account, an active and hardy race,
rather of a leaden,colour, but with nofes ftill flatter than thofe of the
Hottentots *. .
The kingdom of Benin is afferted to be very confiderable; and it is faid
that the monarch could raife an army of one hundred thoufand. The
eapital, of the fame name, is faid to contain thirty ftreets of low houfes,
while the inhabitants are remarkable for cleanlinefs and propriety of be-
haviour. They are faid to acknowledge a fupreme benevolent deity,
whofe worfhip they deem fuperfluous, as he ean neither be influenced,
enraged, or appeafed ; but they offer facrifices to inferior and malignang
Spirits, in order to foothe their enmity.
Loango is a country of no fmall extent, on the north of Congo, and
of which an account has been publifhed by Pigafetta and others. The
people are induftrious, as there are weavers, {miths, potters, carpenters,
and makers of canoes, caps, and beads, The exports are elephants?
teeth, copper, tin, lead, iron. The common people are held in a kind
of flavery, but many migrate. The fuperitition of magic prevails, ag
wfual among the African tribes. The capital Bouali is 5 he French
called Luango. The dry feafon begins with April and ends with O&o-
Der ; but the greateft heat is in the rainy feafon, or the other fix months.
Even the mountains are of mere clay, without rock or ftone: and the
yivers do not increafe in the rainy feafon. The foil feems to be wholly
a compa clay, which fometimes fplits into va abyffes. Vegetation
however flourifhes; and among the trees are the cocoa, banana, orange,
Temon, pimento, with the cotton fhrub, and fugar cane. The palm
wine, a favourite African beverage, is procured by piercing the tree
where the fruit begins to {well from the trunk.
The lateft account of Congo fecms to be that by John Anthony
Cavazzi de Monte Cuculo, a capuchin miffionary, which appears how-
ever to be fomewhat tainted with falfe miracles and fanaticifm ¢. In
Otober begiue what may be called the {pring, but heavy rains eon-
tinue for two or three months. About the end of January is one har-
veft ; and in March more gentle rains commence and continue till May,
when there is a fecond dry feafon or harveft ; their nominal winter be-
ginning in July. ‘The Zahir or Zair ie a grand aftd rapi¢ river, and the
mouth faid to be five leagues in width, frethening the fea to a great dif-
tance, It has vaft cataracts, near one of which is a mine of bright
yellow copper. The houfes are round thatched hovels, even in the
@ Second Journey, iil, 116: but fee Dapper’s Alsiva for dhe Heufeques,
+ Vt was printed at Bologna, 1667, folio, aie
co) a ghie
chief cit
have the
‘Europea
green or
bodies o1
America
the fugar
of iron a
which fee
ee wr
ouring {
ful. citcur
. Bora:
to be fuf
-blance in
rican cen
here in p
catalogue
and chars
far as the
luxuriant
with vari
foils, N
mental or
a fuperior
caffava, d
and whok
the yam,
are the p
The cop
which ex
the drier
Qears'@reoist 6
. THE WESTERN COAST. 63
chief city, called St. Salvador by the Portuguefe. The Congoefe
have the negro colour without the features, which rather refemble the
‘European ; hair fometimes of a deep reddifh brown, and eyes of a dark
green or fea colour. Once a year the graves are opened, and, the
bodies or bones decorated. This cuftom feems peculiar to Africa and
America. Congo produces millet, maize, and excellent fruits; with
the fugar cane, and varieties of the palm. ‘There are faid to be mines
of iron and copper ; and among the animals is named the cojas morrom,
which feems the orang outang of Borneo. The accounts of the Portue
uefe writers, the chief authorities concerning Congo and the neighe
Seurisa ftates, often border fo much on the fabulous, that amidft dou
Sul citcumftances brevity becomes the fafeft choice. ",
_ Botany op tHe wesTean coast.) This coaft appears in general
to be fufficiently well watered, and accordingly bears a ftriking refem-
-blance in its vegetable productions to the oppofite thore of the Ame.
rican continent. The ufual plants of the tropical climates are found
here in perfection and in great abundance: but we yet want a {cientifie
catalogue wf indigenous vegetables to afcertain what are the peculiar
and characteriftic features of its fora. The low fhores of the rivers, as
far as the tide reaches, are bordered with mangroves and bamboos ; the
luxuriant Guinea grafs, the fugar cane, ginger, turmeric, and cocoa-nut,
with various other f{pecies of palms, root themfelves in the moift deep
foils. Numerous kinds of dyeing woods, and of timber fit for orna-
mental or ufeful purpofes, abound in the forefts, Indigo and cotton of
a fuperior quality are met with both wild and cultivated. The {weet
caflava, differing from the American manioc in being perfectly innoxious
and wholefome even without cooking, the Guinea pepper or capficum,
the yam, {weet potatoe, rice, maize, gourds and melons of all kinds,
are the principal food of the inhabitants, and probably are indigenous.
The copal tree, the fandal wood, ebony, cet mimofa Senegal, from
which exudes the auucilaginous gum of the fame name, are plentifulin -
the drier and fandy parts of the country.
COLONY OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
fer territory, upon the recent Englifh conqueft, was found to be
of more confiderable extent than had been fuppofed, being 550
Englith miles in length, and 233 in breadth, comprehending an area of
128,150 {quare miles*. The white inhabitants, exclufive of Cape
Town, do not exceed 15,000, and the whole may be about 20,000.
The Dutch fettlement was formed in 1660. To the S. E. of Cape
Town are fome {mall vineyards, which yield the noted wine called
Conftantia ; and even in remote diftriéts there ase plantations of various
kinds: but large tracts are irrecoverably barren, confifting of ranges of
mountains, and level plains of hard clay {prinkled with fand, commonly
called harvoos. The mopntainous chains run from E, to W., bein
probably terminating nrenehae of a {pine pafling N. and S. like thofe
of the Vralian ridge. The firkt ridge is from twenty to fixty miles from
the fea; the fecond, called the Zwart Berg, or Black mountain, is more
Barrow's Travels, 1901, 4to. p. 9
lofty
= so =
ie
SSS ae eee
a
EE BY i! a
Lh
i !
i #
Pea iy Uli
} ae
ea t\) libeg
Ha
: Hit,
‘ ie
a |e
if | ae
i} "{
4
i 5a
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
764
lofty and rugged, and about the fame diftance from the firfts the third
is the Nieuveld, which with the fecond inclofes a great karroo or defert,
rifing like a. terrace about 3co miles in length E. and W., and 80
in breadth. The country is more fertile towards the Indian ocean than ”
towards the Atlantic, a character which feems to pervade Africa, as
on the eaft is Abyflinia, while on the weft isthe Zaara. The chief
seforts of trading veffels are Falfe Bay on the S. and Table Bay on the
N., which opens toCape Town, The mountainsin the vicinity of
the Cape are of blue fchiftus, and mdurated clay, mingled with balls
of granite. On the granite and clay is filiceous fandftone,, furmounted
by granular quartz: this defcription may extend to moft of the inland
mountains ; but thofe called the Copper mountains, S. lat. 29° 4o’,
fupply a prodigious quantity of that metal in the form of vitreous ore,
which is {melted by the Damaras, a Kaffer or Kouffi nation in the
vicinity. There are fome wolves and hyenas, and various kinds of an-
telopes ; and, among birds, eagles, vultures, kites, crows, turtle doves,
&c. ; more inland are all the wild and ferocious animals of Africa, and
hippopotami abound in the rivers. —
Borant] There are few places whofe natural hiftory has been fo
ably explored as the territory of the Dutch colony at the Cape of Good
Hope and the countries adjacent ; nor does any feem to have better re-
paid the labour of refearch. The botany of fouthern Africa is more
sich and peculiar than that of any other country, and moft of the jin-
ular and beautiful inhabitants of our ftoves and green-houfes have been
Se procured. Numbers however, equally remarkable, remain behind,
which from their fize, or from accident, or from the neceffity of felec.
tion among s multitude, are as yet ftrangers to European cultivation.
The clafs of bulbous-rooted plants alone might be felected as peculiarly
characteriftic of the Cape, for no where elfe are they found fo abundant,
fo various, or fo fplendid, What pen can defcribe the innumerable gay
and fragrant varieties of the ixia; who can reckon up the beautiful
fpecies of iris, morwa, gladiolus, amaryllis, hemanthns, and pancratium,
which at the conclution of the autumnal rains adorn the meadows at the
foot of the mountains with every brilliant hue that can be imagined?
At other feafons the bright gnaphaliums, the xeranthemum fulgidum,
and fpeciofiflimum, remarkable for their flowers of red, yellow and
filky white, the fcented geraniums glowing on the fides of the hills in.
termixed with the hundred {pecies of {hrubby and arborefcent heaths,
compole a fcene of unrivalled magnificence, where the eye wanders with
delight from beauty to beauty, till, fatigued with fplendour, it repofe
on the light filvery foliage of the protea rs ones on the vigorous
green of the fpreading oak, or the ftill deeper hue of the afpiring ftone
pine. The hard and ftony waftes are fcattered over with fucculent
plants of the ftapelia, mefembryanthemum, euphorbia, craffula, cotyledon,
and aloe ; while. fuch of them as affume the height and character of
trees, mixed with the weeping willow and mimolz of various kinds,
overfpread-the banks of the temporary torrents, ‘The forefts are prin.
cipally on the eaftern border of the fettlement, and have been but little
explored ; they furnith the iron wood, the African oak, the Haflagai
wood, the yellow wood, a few fpecies of Zamia or Sago palm, the
Scarlet-flowered guaiacum, and the incomparably fplendid ftrelitfia
reging.
For a more minute account of this interefting colony, the only
Enropean fettlement in Africa that deferves the name, the reader is re«
ferred to the excellent work already quoted, which forms a {triking ~
tre
_and Zang
trat wi
Kouffis
to the /
tots; b
Orange
author {
es Hot
of copp
fo bane
alfo call
28° E. fi
tke Gre:
inundati
and agat
the Tar
le&ting t
and cauf
in Dece
country
are the |
Nai
N 1
Ki
Chere is «
by the bi
large ifle
better kr
Valco de
Ajan an
circuit of
Of th
recently
the Sout
bay is
banks fo}
helmets
a king ca
nad >
in Decem
d
‘Ov wa Eo MO maw Yw
7 ses me
THE EASTERN COAST. 955
traft with the gafconades of Le Vaillant. Mr. Barrow vifited the
Kouffis in the eaft ; and conceives that a belt of that race {preads acrofs
tothe Atlantic. The Nemakas are of the fame race with the Hotten-
tots ; but the Damaras on the Copper Mountains, and north to the
Orange river and tropic of Capricorn, are Kouflis, a race whom our
author fu‘peéts to be of Arabian extract, as they widely differ from
the Hottentots and the negroes, and are acquainted with the {melting
of copper, and fome other rude arts. The country of the Damarae is
fo barren and fandy that they cannot keep cattle. The Orange river,
alfo called the Groot or Great river, feems to rife about S. lat. 30°, long
28° E. from Greenwich, and paffes W. by N. till it join the fea between
the Great and Little Nemakas. There are high cataraéts, and it has
inundations like the Nile. -On the fhores are carnelians, calcedonies,
and agates. ‘‘ The rains in the great mountains beyond the Kaffere and
the Tambookies, along the feet of which the Orange river runs, col-
le&ting their tributary ftreams in its paffage, commence in Nowember,
and caufe the inundations to take place towards the Nemaka country
in December.” Mr. Barrow’s account terminates with part of the
country of the little Nemakas, included in the colony ; beyond whigh
are the Copper Mountains and fandy deferts.
$$
THE EASTERN COAST.
Natal.— Delagoa.— Mocaranca.— Mozambic, tc. — Add.
OS leaving the colonial poffeffions, in this direction, firft appear the
Kaffers, or properly Kouffis, and the Tambookies, beyond whom
there is deep obfcurity. What is called the coaft of Natalis followed
by the bay of Delagoa. Farther to the north, and oppofite to the
large ifle of Madagafcar, are Sabia, Sofala, and Mocaranga, regions
better known from Portuguefe narratives. The coafts of Mozambico
and Zanguebar, on the laft of which is the city of Melinda, vilited by
Vafco de Gama, are fucceeded by the defert and obfcure coatts of
Ajan and Adel ; the laft bordering on Abyflinia, and completing the
circuit of Africa. :
Of the bay of Delagoa, and the adjacent country, an account has
recently been given ; and it is Geanenity vifited by veffels employed in
the Southern whale fiery *. One of the chief rivers which enter the
bay isthe Mafumo: ad the natives onthe northern and fouthera
banks follow diftin&¢ cuftoms, the men on the former wearing fingular
helmets of ftraw. On the fouthern fide are fourteen chiefs, fabje to
a king called Capelleh, whofe dominions extend about 200 miles inland,
snd about 109 en the fea fhore, computed by the ‘natives in daye’
journeys of twenty miles each. Cattle and poultry are abundant, and
may be purchafed for a trifle; the favourite articles being blue linens,
eld clothes, brafe rings, copper wire, large’ glafs beads, tobacco,
ipes, &c. The fih are numerous and excellent, and turtle is taken on
eer Iftznd, The foil is a rich black mould, fown with rice or maize
in December or January ; the dry {cafon lafting from April till OGober.
® White's Journal of a Voyage ftom Madras, &e, 1800, 4tq.
There
766 THE EASTERN COAST’
, There ate many fruit trees and ufeful plants, particularly the fugat és
but no horfes; affes, nor buffaloes, Phe ed antnals are i i
rhinoceros, antelope, hare; rabbit; wild hog, with guinea hens, par-
tridges, quails, wild geefe, ducks, and fome fmall finging birds. The
natives are Kaffers, that i¢ paégand; of a bright black colour, tall and
ftout ; they go nearly naked, and are tattooed. They ate a. good.
Peeves and hatmlefs people, and fond of excurfions on. the river,
ike the reft of Africa, the country is not populous; and Mr. White
fuppofes that the inhabitants around this large bay may be from fix to
ten thoufand; tht ; sa
The motft civilized and powerful kingdom feéms to be that of Mocas
sanga, abfurdly called Monomotapa. The foil of this country is {aid
to be fertile, though the plains be expofed to great heat; while the
mountains called Lupatay or the Spine of the World, form a great chain
ftretching from N. to S. covered with perpetual {now: The people are
almoft naked, and, like thofe of the weitern coaft, fuperftitioufly afraid
of magical charms. According to the doubtful accounts of this coun;
try, the king on days of ceremony, wears a little fpade hanging by
his fide as an emblem of cultivation, The children of the great are re«
tained at court as hoftages; and the king fends annually an officer to
the provinces; when the people teftify their fidelity by extinguithing
their fires, and kindling others from the officer’s torch. The emperor’s
uard is faid to confift of women lightly atmed. The Portuguefe have
ere two fortreffes, and another ftation near the mountains of Furay
which are faid to abound in gold. It is to be regretted that they do
not publifh accounts of their African fettlements, which would be ex.
tremely interefting in the obfcure geography of that continent; but
they are of all nations the mott illiterate, and the moft determined enes
mies of their own celebrity.
The Moors, or Arabs, are eRablifhed in confiderable numbers on the
coafts of Ajan and Zanguebar, and feem to have invented the term of
Kafraria, tor in the Arabic Kafre fignifies an unbeliever; whence the
Bertin as being wholly vague and uncertain, fhould be difmiffed
‘om geo :
The hfagdom of Mozambique or Mozambico, is confidered as fubje&
to the Portuguefe, who had a confiderable town of the fame name,
fituated in an ifle, the governor being dependent on the viceroy of Goa,
Zanguebar is faid to be a marfhy He | unhealthy country, but abundant
in elephants: it is chiefly inhabited by the Mocuas, partly Pagans,
partly Mahometans. The little kingdom of Quiloa is alfo dependent on
the Portuguefe, with that of Mombaza, from which they were expelled
in 1631, but regained their poffeffions in 1729. Melinda, a Mahome«
tan ftate, is alfo partly dependent on the Portuguefe, who have a for.
trefs in the city, and feveral churches. The coaft of Ajan is chiefly
Mahometan, and carries on a confiderable trade in ivory, ambergris, and
gold. Brava, a little ariftocracy, pays tribute to the Portuguefe,
who have not been able to encroach on Magadafho, or on the kingdom
‘of Adel, which laft was dependent on Abyffinia, and is faid to be a
fertile country. This gtate was founded by a Mahometan prince at the
beginning of the fixteenth century, the capital being Auzagurel, {tand-
ing on an eminence near the siver Awath, which comes from Abyflinia :
re Zeila, on the Arabian gulf, is a confiderable port,
difcove
geogra
werfed 1
This
along t
by Lor
rence.
Dauphi
it Beco
Portug
forme u
acres 0}
chain of
the eaft:
mer.
meni in
fified w
the defc
ducts a
gum lac
le plan
are no li
minerals
for optic
faid th
{potted
above t
groes,
greater |
times, p
Dauphir
chiefly.
built ups
within y
times the
are only
which tl
@ Lib. 3
LIt isc
ey
THE ISLE. OF MADAGASCAR.
HIS noble ifland of about 840 G. miles in length, by about 226
of medial breadth, being efteemed one of the largeft in the world,
though feemingly exceeded by Papua, and ftill more by New Holland,
if the latter mutt be claffed among iflands. It feems to have been un-
known to the ancients, for Ptolemy’s geography of eaftern Africa
appears to terminate with the ifle uf Pemba. The firft certain mention
of Madagafcar is by Marco Polo, in the thirteenth century, who de-
feribes it by its prefent name, having received his knowledge: from the
Arabs*. Among other fingularities, he mentions that large bird which
ts called Ruc by the Arabs, and by the moderns the condor. It would
feem that the Mahometan religion had made fome progrefs:; but the
difcoveries of the Arabs in Afia and Africa form an important obje& in
geography, which deferves to be inveltigated by fome writer eminently
verfed in oriental lore.
This ifland appears to have efcaped the notice of Gamay who coafted
along the African fhore; and is faid to have been difcovered in 1506,
by Lorenzo Almida, whence perhaps it is called the iffe of St. Law-
rence. The French navigators in the reign of Henry IV. called it Ifle
Dauphin ; and the latter ingenious people having repeatedly fettled here,
it Becomes perfpicuous from the accounts of their writers, while the —
Portuguefe fetttemente remain in comparative darknefs. Rochon ¢ in-
forme us that this iffand may contain.about two hundred millions of
acres of excellent land, watered by rivers and rivulets, from a long
chain of mountains paffing in the direction of the ifland, and feparating
the eaftern from the weftern coaft, but approaching nearer to the for-
mer. The two higheft mountains are Vigagora in the north and Botiit-
meni in the S, e {cenery is ftrikingly grand and piturefque, diver=
fified with precipices, cataracts, and immente foreits. The flax, fron
the defcription, feems to approach that of New Zealand; other pro-
dutts are, fugar canes, cocoa nuts, bananas, tobacco, indigo, peppete
um lacca, benzoin, amber, ambergris, &c., and the variety ot valua-
Ble plants is prodigious. Cattle, buffaloes and fheep abound. There
are no lions, tigers, elephants, nor horfes. Many of the moft valuable
minerals occur, among which are beds of pure rock cryftal, often ufed
for optical purpofes, and erroneoufly ftyled Brazil pebble ft, and it is
faid three Iinds of gold ore, with topazes, fapphires, emeralds, and
{potted jafpers, commonly called blood ftones. The natives are rather
above the middle ftature, and are of various origins; fome being ne-
groes, others tawny or copper coloured; but the complexion of the
greater part is olive, and it would feem that the Arabs, in very early
times, penetrated very far into Africa. The French fettlement of Fort
Dau hin is in the S. E. extremity of the ifland, and the French wre
chiefly acquainted with the fouthern part. Almoft all the villages are
built upon eminences, and furrounded by two rows of ftrong palifades
within which there is a parapet of earth, four feet in height ; and ‘fome-'
times there is a ditch, ten feet in breadth aud fix indepth. Their chiefe
are only known by their red caps, worn by the common Moors, and of
which there is a noted manufacture at Tunis. Their authority is incon-
@ Lib. iil. cap. 29. + Voyaye to Madagafcar, 1792, 8v0,
2 It is quarried in huge hlocke near the bay of Antungil, and alfo in the mountains of
Agboiifinenes in the northern part of the We, Rochon, p. 947.
9 fiderable,
568 MADAGASCAR.
fiderable, Pia they are fometimes regarded as proprietors of the land, and
- Receive a malt quit rent. Writing is not 9 el i and there are fome
hiftorical books in their native tongues; but their learned men, whom
they call ombia/es, ufe only the Arabic chara&ers. In the province of
Matatan are many magicians, greatly dreaded by the ignorant natives,
The paper is made of papyrus, which the Madagaffes call fanga-fanga ;
and the ink is the decoétion of a certain bark. The whole ifland is faid
to have been sonnened by the Arabs about three hundred years ago :
but their firft fettlements here and in fouthern Africa may be nearly as
ancient as thofe in Abyfiinia, and of Mahometanifm there are only faint
traces. From the account of Rochon the traditions of many tribes point
to avery early Arabian origin. The nobles are ftyled Roandrians: and
the Anaeandri are defcended from thofe and black women. The native
blacks are claffed as defcendants of the ancient chiefs, and preferve their
right of killing animals, ufurpec in other cafes by the Roandrians, who
regard the profeffion of a butcher as the moft honourable. The next
elafs cannot kill animals, but have fome privileges unknown to the Ont-
zoa, or third caft. The Ondeves, or /of men, are flaves by extraCtion.
They fuppofe that feven women, originally created, were the mothers of
the different cafts; and there is a faint but fingular refemblance of Hin.
doo traditions. Poligamy feems confined to the chiefs ; the women are
lively and cheerful, and form the chief delight of their hufbands. The
achievements of the French in Madagafcar have been detailed by many
of their writers, from Flacourt to Rochon. The molt fingular perhaps
is that of the Polifh adventurer Benyowfky, who, pretending to eftablith
. am independent power among the natives, was attacked by a detachment
fent from the ifle of France, and flain on the 23d 0f May 1786*. Few
countries in the world are more deferving to be the feats of a powerful
independent monarchy.
The knowledge that we have of the plants of Madagafcar is chiefl
derived from a few French authors ; of thefe Flacourt is the principal,
having given a lift of three or four hundred. Unfortunately however
he mentions only their native names, and defcribes them by fancied refem.-
blances in their form or medical propertiesto thofe of Europe. Hence
the greater part are wholly unintelligible, nor is it without fome hefita-
tion that we give the few following Linnaan fpecies, as probably included.
in the catalogue of the above mentioned author.
Of efculent plants there are the rice, banana, yam, nymphe lotos, feve.
ral kinds of dolichos or kidney bean, gourds and water melons, and cocoa
nuts. The fruits are, pine apples, tamarinds, oranges, and pomegranates,
The {pices and other condiments are common, and betel pepper, ginger,
turmeric, cinnamon, and fugar. The Indian fig grows here, asallo does
the ebony, the bamboo, the cotton, and indigo.
A few Madagafcar plants have been obtained of late years, of which
the only f{pecies interefting to the general reader are the Mauritanian
mulberry with green fruit, and the gummiphora Madagafcarienfis,
whofe juice concretes into an elaftis gum exactly fimilar to the caoute
chouc of Cayenne,
# See his Memoiss, London, 1790, two vols, 4to. v. ii. p. 93, &e., and Rochon'’s
Madagafeer, p. 253. The laft author, p. 164, gives a curious eccount of the Kimos, a
nation of dwarfs, living amidit inaceeflible rocks.
ference,
power t
diftance
many rc
The |
cularly .
venient |
are gove
guele; 3
‘cocoa, at
of Moz:
Toth
Bourbor
The ifle
and com:
is about
mountair
of a Phil
pointin
of the be
iron-bour
Proceedi
ed with t
by Mario
accounts,
The fo
*A piol
Vaux, ‘Th
~~ Ss Fw OTe
(769 )
THE SMALLER AFRICAN ISLANDS.
Pemba —Comoro.— Mauritius and Bourbon. Kerguelen’s Land.—St..
Helena Afcenfion.— Cape Verd Iflands.—Canaries.— Madeira. °
HESE fhall be traced from the eaftern coaft towards the weft.
; Thofe in the Red Sea are too minute for general geography: and
the ifle of Socotra has already'been defcribed under Arabia, to which it
belongs. The iflands of Pemba, Zanzibar, and Monfia, are oppofite to
the coaft of Zanguebar. Pembais faid to be about 100 miles in circume
ference, governed by a king, who pays tribute to Portugal ; to which
power the two others are alfo {aid to be fubfervient, Ata confiderable
diftance to the eaft are the ifles of Mahé and Almiranti, interfperfed with
many rocks, and of {mall account.
The iflands of Comoro are four in number, of confiderable fize, parti-
cularly Angazzia, or the greater Comoro. That of Anzoan has a con-
venient harbour, fometimes vifited by fhips pafling to India. Thefe ifles
are governed by Pagan or Mahometan chietrains, tributary to the Portue
guele ; and are reported to be very fertile in rice, oranges, lemons, fugary
‘cocoa, and ginger; the natives carrying on fome trade with the Portuguefe
of Mozambico. The domeftic animals refemble the European.
Tothe eaft of Madagafcar are the iflands of Mauritius or France, and
Bourbon, French fettlements, well known in the commercial world *.
The ifle of France has a tolerable port, the centre of the oriental force
and commerce of the French. The ifle of Baurbon, colonized in 1654,
is about fifty leagues in circumference, of a circular form, rifing to high
mountains in the centre ; and there is a noted volcano, difficult of accefs,
at the fummit of a mountain a league from the fea: the eruptions are
frequent and continual. Mauritius, or the ifle cf France, was firft pof.
fefied by the Dutch, who abandoned it in 1712, and the French fettlee
ment began to acquire fome flability under Bourdonnaisin 1734. There
are two crops every year of wheat and Indian corn, but manioc was the
food of the negroes. The ifle of Bourbon produces fugar canes; and in
both the cattle are numerous. In 1766 M. Poivre, author of the Voyage
of a Philofopher, was governor of thefe ifles, and the advantages of ap-
pointing men of fcience to fuch ftations was evident from dis introduction
of the bread-fruit tree, and alfo of the nutmeg and cinnamon.
Far to the fouth lies Kerguelen’s Land, fo called froma recent French,
navigator, but by Captain Pook the Ifle of Defolation, This region
mutt be claffed among the African iflands, as it approaches nearer to that
continent than to Auftralafia, which may however claim the {mall iflands
of Amfterdam and St. Paul, only frequented on account of the feal
fihery. Kerguelen’s Land is defcribed and delineated in the laft voyage
of Cook, to which the curious reader is referred. In wildnefs, and
iron-bound fterility, it rivals New Georgia, and the fouthern Thule.
Proceeding towards the weft are feveral other defert iflands, {urround.
ed with the floating ice of the antarétic ocean, and chiefly difcovered
by Marion in 1772. That of Triftan da Cunha is unknown to recent
accounts,
The fouth is here the region of cold and defolation, and on proceeds
*A prolix hiftory of Mauritius was publithed in 1801, by Charles Grant, Vifcount de
Vaux. ‘The ifle of Bourbon has been Jately called Reunion. :
D ing
3
eae 5
970 SMALLER AFRICAN ISLANDS.
ing towards the north the fcene improves. St. Helena is a beautiful
ifland, poffefled by about three hundred Englifh families, the governor
refiding in a fort with a {mall garrifon. here is a village, with a
church, in Chapel valley. The planters are occupied with their cattle,
hogs, and poultry; but when Eat India fhips arrive each houfe becomes
alittle tavern. This interefting ifle was difcovered by the Portuguefe,
who ftocked it with animals and fruit trees ; but there was no fettlement
when the Englifh took poffeffion about the year 1600. There is only
one harbour, which is difficult of accefs. ‘The ifle of Afcenfion, be-
tween Africa and Brazil, was difcovered in 1508 ; and has an excellent
harbour, frequented by homeward-bound fhips, who here find turtle and
fea-fowl. This ifland is ef confiderable fize, but mountainous, and the
foil a barren fand. |
On approathing the African fhore to the north of Congo, and pafi-
ing the neglected ifle of St. Matthew, where the Portuguefe have a
{mall fettlement, firft appears the ifle of Annabon, followed by St. Tho-
mas, Prince’s Ifle, and that of Fernando Po. The ifle of St. Thomas
was difcovered by the Portuguefe about 1460, and fettled by them in
defpite of the climate, which is foggy and fingularly unhealthy. But
the foil is remarkably ftrong and ferrile, domettic animals abound, and
the produce of fugar is prodigious. There is a bifhop, who is a fuffra-
gan of Lifbon. The town of Pavoacan: is on the eaftern fide of the
land. Prince’s Ifland is alfo fertile, with a good harbour, and a town
of about two hundred houfes on the northern fhore ; it is inhabited by
about forty Portuguefe and 3000 negro flaves. Fernando Po feems
deftitute of any good harbour, and abandoned to the goats and feals;
but the Spaniards retain the nominal poffeffion.
Several other fmall ifles arife on the African fhore *; and it is pro-
bable that in ancient periods thefe were ftill more numerous, but the
fand, which has blocked up many of the rivers, muft have united the
iflands, particularly at their mouths, with the continent. The firft dif-
tinguifhed group in this quarter is that oppofite to Cape Verd, whence
it has received its name. Thefe ifles were difcovered by the Portuguefe
in 1446. They are ten in number, the two largeft being that of St.
Jago in the S. E. and St. Anthony inthe N. W. The air is hot and
unhealthy, and molt of the ifles tony and barren ; the chief trade be-
ing in falt, and goat fkins. Some produce rice, maize, bananas, le-
mons, oranges, citrons, with cotton, and fugar canes 3 and there is abun.
dance of poultry. Ribira, the chief town and bifhopric, is in St. Jago.
Far to the north the Canary Iflands, or Fortunate Iflands of the
ancients, form an interefting range from wett to eaft. They were con-
quered by the French in 1402, under the celebrated Jean de Bethen-
court, afterwards v diiy king of the Canaries+. The ifle ftri€tly called
Canary is fmaller than Fuerta Ventura and Tenerif. The latter is the
moft remarkable, deriving its name, according to Glas, from thener, a
mountain, and if, white. In the recent aftronomical voyage of Verdun
de la Crenne there is an accurate account of the Peak of Tenerif,
which was found 1742 toifes above the level of the fea, or about s00a
feet lower than Mont Blanc. It is faid to be vifible at the diftance of
* Among thefe may be mentioned the Biffegos, and the little ifle of Goree, a fettlee
ment fheltered by the bold prominence uf Cape Verd.
+ Hiftsire de la premiere Decouverte et Conquefte des Canaries, Paris 1630, avo.
See alfo Glas's Hiftory of the Canary idands; London, 1764, 4to.
eighty
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SMALLER AFRICAN ISLANDS: Vk
eighty leagues*. This celebrated mountain cannot be afcended, on ace
count of the fnows, except from the middle of July to the end of Au-
guft. Firft occur pumices, interfperfed with obfidian of beautiful and
various colours, followed by broken lava. The fummit refembles a
cone placed on a table, or rather {mall bafe, and can only. be afcended
by a zig-zag path on the fouth. The cok! is extreme; the nails be-
come black, and the hands and feet fwell. In the middle of the fummit
is a deep reverfed cone, called the cauldron, about fifty fathoms in dia-
meter, and bordered with hideous calcined rocks, moftly red or white,
the perpendicular depth being about 150 feet: at the bottom are per-
ceived reddifh fpots, upon a kind of white earth like plafter, and min-
gled with fulphur. Around are many little mouths from one to four
inches in diameter, which at fhort intervals refpire, as it were, a thick
hot fetid {moke. The largeft hole, about eight inches in diameter, is
within the crater, exhaling with a found, like the bellowing of a bull,
and the fmoke is fo hot as inftantly to burn the hair of the hand. Yet
the rocks immediately adjoining are covered with wet mofs, like thofe
by the fide of a cafcade.
The ancient inhabitants of the Canaries were called Guanches by the
Spaniards, and were ftrangers to the ufe of iron, their weapons and in-
ftruments being of what they called ¢abona, or black obfidian. The
chief trees are wild olives, cypreffes, laurels, and pines of two kinds.
It was reported by Spanith writers that there was a tree in the ifle of
Ferro which gathered the vapours, fo that the inhabitants were thus
fupplied with water dropping from the leaves. The produc of thefe
iflands is wheat, barley, and oats; and the excellent Canary wine is
chiefly from Tenerif and Palma, which alfo yield confiderable quan-
tities of fugar; while Gomera is noted for filk ; and the tree yieliing
the gum called dragon’s blood is not uncommont. They have mo
European domeftic animals, The capital of the feven inhabited iflands
is the town of Palma, in the ifle of Canary; but Tenerif is the moft
opulous. ‘The inhabitants are computed at 140,000; of whom 64,000
belong to Tenerif, in which ifle the governor ufually refides, though
the royal audience, of which he is prefident, be eftablifhed at the ca-
pital of Canary. There is confiderable internal trade with Tenerif 5
‘and the wine is chiefly exported by the Englith. Filtering ftones,
from the ifle of Canary, and from Fuerta Ventura, alfo.form an article
of traffic.
The ifland of Madeira is chiefly remarkable for excellent wines, be-
ing about 18 leagues in length by 7 in breadth ¢. The capital, Fun-
chal, the refidence of the governor and bifhop, is in a fertile vale, on
the fouth fide of the ifle, a handfome town, with about 11,000 inha-
bitants, there being about 64,002 in the whole ifland. The chief trade
is with the Englifh, who export about ten or twelve thoufand pipes of
wine annually ; the remainder, about feven thoufand, being coniumed
in the country. The richeft merchants are Englith or Irifh catholics.
The interior confifts of high mountains, vifible at the diftance of twenty
leagues. To the N. E. is the {mall ifle of Porto Santo, only remark-
able in the hiftory of Portuguefe difcovery. It is however a fertile .
little ifle, with a good harbour fometimes vifited by Eaft India
fhips.
* Tome i. p. 121; fuppofing the height to be 1742 toifes, the fammit might be vifible
at fea, at the diftance of 35 leagues. :
¢ Ib. 103, 3 Whi 58.
3D2 INTERIOR
( 772 )
INTERIOR PARTS.
Or the interior parts of Africa, Darfur alone may be faid to be dif.
tin@ly known ; while concerning the remainder there are only vague
reports. Mr. Browne, to whofe independent love of f{cience we are
indebted for the firft account of Darfur, informs us, that Cobbe, the
capital of this country, is a pleafant little town, full of trees of different
kinds; and, during the rainy feafon, the ground on which it ftands
is furrounded by a torrent. The inhabitants are almoft all merchants
and foreigners. The other more noted towns of the kingdom are Sweini,
Kiirma, Cubcabia, Ril, Cours, Shoba, Cidid, Gellé; for a defcrip.
tion of which the reader may confult the original work. The merchants
are chiefly from Upper Egypt, Tunis, and Tripoli.
The rains fall in Darfur from the middle of June till the middle of
September; and the cares of agriculture bégin with the rains*, The
goats are more numerous than the fheep, whofe wool refembles hair.
Cows are abundant, but the milk not very palatable; camels are nu-
merous. The lion, the leopard, the hyena, wolf, jackall, and wild
buffalo, are too familiarly known; but the tiger is not mentioned; and
Mr. Browne has expreffed his opinion, as already ftated, that this terri-
ble animal is not a native of Africa. ‘To thefe may be added the ele-
hant, the rhinoceros, the giraf, the hippopotamus, and the crocodile.
Perhaps the rhinoceros with one horn, called by the Arabs Abukurn,
or the father of the horn, may have given rife te the fable, if fuch it
be, of the unicorn. The antelope and oftrich are alfo common. For the.
other animals Mr. Browne’s very intelligent work may be confulted.
The copper brought from the mines in the fouth is of excellent quality,
and iron is abundant ; but the little gold is brought from the countries
in the E.and W. Among the trees are the tamarind, or fruit of India,
oriental plane, fycamore of Egypt, and others enumerated in the ori-
ginal work.
- The government is regal and hereditary; yet a battle often decides
the fucceffion, The army cannot exceed two thoufand men, whence
our author concludes that the population may be about two hundred
thoufand fouls. Allowing the juftnefs of this calculation, in Abyfiinia,
where the royal army amounts to twenty thoufand, the population might
be two millions. ‘The manners of the people of Darfur, in regard to the
intercourfe of the fexes, are diffolute in a fupreme degree, and a modeft
woman would be regarded asa natural curiofity.
The journey of Hornemann from Cairo to Fezzan containé little ree
markable. The petrified wood, found in the defert, fometimes prefents
extire trunks of trees more than twelve feet in circumference, fometimes
only branches and twigs, and pieces of bark, particularly that of the
- oak. This fingular circumftance would feem to fhew that the country
was formerly inhabitable, till overwhelmed with fand from the decome
pofition of the rocks ; but our author fuppofes that they prefent marks
of a great inundation, becaufe they are intermingled with a vaft quane
tity of oyfter thells, falt, and lakes of falt water. The hiftory of the
lobe is inexplicable. Hornemann fays, that the cultivated part of
Fezzan may be three huhdred B. miles N. to S., and two hundred W,
to E., comprifing, however, a mountainous region on the E. and fome
deferts on the fouth and weft, but he computes the population at only
70,000 fouls. said ; :
® Travels, p. 234.
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INTERIOR PARTS, 973
One of the moft remarkable novelties to be found in the journey of
Hornemann, is that the habitable parts of the wide defert of Zaara
eh A at by the Tibbos on the E. of Fezzan, and the Tauriks on
the °
‘DISCOVERIES AND CONJECTURES CONCERNING
THE CENTRAL PARTS OF AFRICA,
|S Gansta completed this arduous circumnavigation of the globe, and
arrived on the confines of Europe, whence the defcription firlt pro-
ceeded, one topic yet remains, which has confiderably interefted public
curiofity. The interior parts of Africa prefent many geographical defi-
ciences, both in the dortiern and fouthern parts of that wide continent.
The patronage of the African Society has already contributed greatly to ©
the increafe of our knowledge, not only by colle&ing recent oriental intel-
ligence, but by exciting various dtevellets; particularly Mr. Park, to
the accomplifhment of this grand defign; and though thefe laudable
efforts have not been attended with all the effe& that might have been
withed, yet the precilion of modern knowledge begins to dawn ; and it
is to be hoped that the travels of Mr. Hornemann will importantly tend
to remove the remaining defects. The materials hitherto prefented have
been ufed with care by that celebrated geographer Major Rennell, whofe
{ucceffion of maps of the northern part of Aftica, from 1790 to 1800,
form of themfelves curious fpecimens of the uncertainty of the fubjet, of
the variations in the author’s ideas, and of the progrefs of African
geography.
he travels of Mr. Browne, merely to fatisfy his own curiofity, and
his fondnefs for oriental manners, have alfo contributed moft effentially
to our knowledge of northern Africa, not only by the geography of Dar-
fur and Kordofan, but by afcertaining the origin and progrefs of the Bahr
el Abiad, or real Nile ; and by difclofing feveral circumitances towards
the weit, particularly a large river rifing in the mountains of Kumri, and
proceeding N. W., which teens to be the Gir of Ptolemy, and the Nile
of the negroes of Edrifi. It needs fcarcely be added that as the fource
of the Nile, and the river running N. W., are ftriking features of Ptos
lemy’s map, there is reafon to infer that his intelligence deferves in other
refpects great credit.
All the recent information however, affifted by that of Ptolemy, will
only throw a faint light on the northern half of this wide continent, ag
far as the central ridge of Kong, continned in a N. W. and S. E. direc-
_tion acrofs to the mountains of Kumri, and thofe on the fouth of Abyf-
finia, perhaps extending to Ajan on the eaftern fhore. The interior of
the fouthern half of this great continent will remain a theme equally ine
terefting, and {till lefs known. In proceeding firft to give fome idea -.
of the St rcoveries and conjectures concerning the northern half, it will
be proper to, begin with alcertaining where the light of difcovery ter.
minates,
From the travels of Mr. Park, and the map conftrn&ed by Rennell, | -
it appears that three great rivers, the Gambia, Senegal, and Joliba or
Nigir, rife from a chain of lofty mountains, N. lat. 11’ ; and as Browne
lays down the mountains of Kumri, which gives fource to the Nile and
3D 3 Bahe
774 DISCOVERIES AND CONJECTURES CONCERNING
Bahr Kulla, in N, lat. 7°, it feems fufficiently evident that this grand
chain proceeds acrofs the continent, efpecially as it was obferved by Mr.
Park as faras he penetrated. This enterprizing and ingenious traveller
purfued the courfe of the Joliba from long. 5° 30’ W. of Greenwich to
Silla, long. 1° 39!. the utmoft extent of his expedition. Not to mention
curious and interefting information concerning the manners and prefent
ftate of the countries through which he paffed, we are indebted to Mr.
Park for the Moorifh kingdom of Ludamar, where he was detained at
Benowm, and for anotber called Beeroo, the capital of which is Walet,
while to the E. is the celebrated kingdom of Tombuétoo. To the fouth
ot thefe are the negro kingdoms of Neste and Bambarra, the capital of
the laft being Sego; beyond which, about 70 g. miles to the N. E., is
Silla, The chief geographical obje&ts in Mr. Park’s route are the river
Joliba, and the town of Sego. The word Joliba fignifies the Great
Water ; and when this river was firft defcribed by our traveller, it was
flowing flowly to the eaftward, and glittering to the morning fun, with
an expanfe as abroad as the Thames at Welftminfter*. He foon after
arrived at Sego, the capital of Bambarra, which confifts of four divi-
fions, furrounded with high mud walls, two on the north fide of the
river, and two on the fouthern. The houfes are in a fquare form, with
flat roofs ; they are of clay; fome have two ftories, many are white
wafhed. Several mofques alfo appear, yet the ftreets are narrow, wheel
carriages being unknown. The inhabitants are computed at 30,000,
but fuch calculations are ufually exaggerated. he king refides
on the fouthern fhore; and people are ferried in canoes, confifting
of two large hollowed trees joined at the ends. Around is a flender
cultivation.
In Ludamar Mr. Park learned, from a theref who arrived with falt
and fome other articles from Walet, the capital of Beeroo, that Houfla
was the largeft town he had feen, Walet being larger than Tombutoot,
At Silla Mr. Park colle&ted intelligence from the Moorifh and negro
traders, who informed him that two See janmey to the E. is the town
of Jenne, fituated on an iflet in the river ; beyond which, at the diftance
of two days, is the Dibbi or Dark lake, in crofling which from W. to
E. the canoes are faid to lofe fight of land for an entire day t. From
this lake the river iffues in feveral ftreams, terminating in two large
branches, which join at Kabra, one day’s journey S. of Tombuctoo,
and the port of that city ortown, At the diftance of cleven days
from Kabra, the river paffes to the fouthward of Houffa, which is two
‘days’ journey diftant from the Joliba, ‘ Of the farther progrefs of thig
great river and its final exit, all the natives feem to be entirely igno-
rant §.”? To the eaftward of Houffa is the kingdom of Kaffina, ‘The
prefent king of 'Tombuétoo is named Abu Abrahima, and is {aid to be
rich, his wives and concubines being clothed in filk. The kingdom
of Houffa is of fuperior confequence. To the S. of the Nigir were
mentioned the kingdoms, or rather diftris of Gotto; to the W.
of which are Baédoo and Maniana, the inhabitants of the laft being re-
ported cannibals. So far Mr. Park’s intelligence in the welt, which
terminates with Houffa, about E. long. from Greenwich 4°,
On the eaftern fide Mr. Brownc’s intelligence extends ta long, 17°;
f that there is a deficiency of thirteen degrees, or 780 g. miles ; but
this {pace unfortunately comprifes the moft interefting partion of northern
Africa, and efpecially the termination of the Nigir ; and to the N. W.
@ P. 291. Bvo. + P, 210, 3 P. 317, § P. 339.
of Darfur
at the dift
which, at
Mr. Brow
river is plz
the banks
with pime
partly by |
of water z
ten perfon
red or cop
or traders
W. of Bo
for Soudar
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called Gnu
but this ca
the moun
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Thus fa
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are Prolem
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which has
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a Panes 2 gHnwre tee ewe
le
THE CENTRAL PARTS OF AFRICA. 75
of Darfur the defieiency becomes more extenfive. To the S. of Cobbé,
at the diftance of twenty three days, are noted copper mines; beyond
which, at the diftance of feven days and a half, is the Bahr el Abjad.
Mr. Browne’s map is unfortunately laid down with little care, and the
river is placed too near the mines. To the W. is the riverof Kulla,
the banke of which, according to Mr. Browne’s information, abound
with pimento trees, and the ferry-boats are partly managed by poles,
partly by a double oar *. The trees are fo vigorous, from the quantity
of water and deep clay, that canoes are hollowed fo large as to contain
ten perfons. The natives of Kulla are partly negroes, and partly of a
red or copper colour ; and the country is chiefly frequented by Jelabs
or traders from Bergoo and. Fur, in order to procure flaves. Onthe
W. of Bornou Mr. Browne heard of Afnou, which is a negroe word
for Soudan or Nigritia in general, but is particularized as a country
abundant in filver : and there is a remote part of the Pagan country
called Gnum-gnum, where the people eat their captives taken in war 5
but this can Fearsiety be the Maniana of Park, and it is probable that
the mountaineers in the S. retain, as ufual, the moft ancient and
ferocious manners.
Thus far the rays of modern intelligence throw a faint light upon
northern Africa; and teyond, all is theory and conjeture. But
amidft this uncertainty there are two fources of information which de-
ferve preference till more precife knowledge can be obtained. Thefe
are Prolemy, who wrote in Egypt before the negroes were envenomed
with Mahometan fanaticifm, and after the Roman arms had penetrated
to the Nigir ; and the Arabian authors, who by the progrefs of Ma-
hometanifm, had the beft intelligence concerning this continent. Yet
upon the whole Ptolemy’s information and exaétnefs will obtain a decie
ded preference over the fabulous turn and grofs inaccuracies of the
Arabian geographers.
The moft remarkable error, or inaccuracy, in Ptolemy’s map is that he
certainly conceives the Nigir to rife in the mountains of Thala; or,
what amounts to the fame, he fuppofes that the river terminated in a
lake in the W. which he calls Nigritis Palus ; whence it was clearly the
Opinion of this great geographer that tle Nigir ran from E. to W. in
which he feems to have been mifled by confounding it with the Gir. The
laft river he clearly deduces from mountains in the S. E. fo as to cor-
refpond with the Bahr Kulla, though he be a ftranger to its remote
fource. This river is another grand feature of Ptolemy’s defcription,
which has efcaped modern geographers, though D’Arville, 1749, had
inferted it with his ufual knowledge and induttry. It is reprefented as
receiving two tributary ftreams from twe lakes ; and among other cities
on its banks is a metropolis called Gira; as upon the Nigir there is
another ftyled the Nigira.
It has already been obferved that this geographer has omitted the
Zaara or Great Defert, and that the interjor part of his map is laid
down from land routes, while the weftern coaft is from maritime expe-
ditions. On the fouth his latitudes are equally erroneous, as he places
the fources of the Nile, and the mountains of the moon, in S, lat. 13°,
inneae of N. lat. 6’ or 7°; an error of about .20 degrees, or 1200 g.
miles !
Having thus brietly examined the leading points of Ptolemy’s African
geography, that of the Arabs will not be found deferving of equal
@ Browne, p. 308, :
3D 4 attention.
776 DISCOVERIES AND CONJECTURES CONCERNING
attention. The moft celebrated is Edrifi, who wrote in Sicily in the
twelfth century, but from his minute attention to eaftern Africa he was
formerly ftyled the Nubian geographer. By fome ftrange inadvertence
the towns mentioned by this author, who wrote fix centuries and a
half ago, have been inferted in modern maps, while perhaps there is not
one of them in exiftence. Setting this afide, it will appear, from an
accurate examination of Edrifi, that while his Nile of the Negroes,
which he fays runs to the W., has been miftaken for the Nigir, he
really knew nothing of that river; and his Nile of the Negroes is the
Gir of Ptolemy, terminating in an inland lake, in which was the ifland
of Ulil, one day’s fail from the mouth of the river; and in which
ifland another Arabian geographer places the capital city of Soudan.
Beyond this lake and ifland Edrifi appears to have had no iocwledee of
central A frica.
The moft curious and important difcoveries which remain are probably
the river Gir, and the lakes, marfhes, or deferts, which receive that
xiver and the Nigir ; the latter being an objeét of great fingularity,
equally unknown in the time of Ptolemy and at the prefent day. Per.
haps in a level plain thefe large rivers fend off various branches,
gradually loft in the fandg; but Ptolemy and the Arabs indicate a great
central bhe, which could fearcely fo long have efcaped more precife
notice, except we conceive that the northern part is furrounded with
deferts, and the fouthern with lofty and inaccelfible mountains, covered
with forefts and full of ferocious animals, fo that the traders only
palling the northern part and Ifle of Ulil, are complete ftrangers to its
outhern extremity.
As in Afia the chief obftacles to difcovery have not been the fandy
deferts of Cobi or Shamo, but the inacceffible mountains of Tibet ; fo
in Africa it would appear that the impediments muft arife from high
mountains, and not from fandy deferts, fuch as are familiarly paffed by
caravans in every direCtion ; it is alfo probable that thefe mountains are
covered with thick forefts, and the thorny underwood frequent in Africa,
fometimes inhabited by aboriginal tribes of the greateft cruelty and
ferocity, and at others {warming with lions, tigers, and panthers, It
would have been moft beneficial to the natives if, asin Afia and Europe,
vidtorious armies had eftablifhed wide empires ; and, at the expence of
temporary deitruction, had fecured laiting intercourfe and general
advantages.
The continual wars between petty tribes feem alfo to confpire with a
ridge of impaflable mountains, called Lupata, or the Spine of the
world, to prevent difcoveries in the interior of fouthern Africa, where
the map of D’Anville, half a century ago, prefente every thing that is
known with any degree of certainty at the prefent day. By a fingular
fatality Africa, the leaft known of all the continents, has become the
portion of the Portuguefe, the moft ignorant of all the European
nations. Jn the hands even of the Ruffians confiderab'e light would
have been d.ffufed, while the Portuguefe darknefs renders all furrounding
objeéts as vague and obfcure as if they belonged to the twelfth century.
Befides the chain of mountains pervading this part of Africa from N.
to S.or perhaps two chains at a confiderable diftance, fupporting an
upland terrace in the centre, whence there are no rivers of prodigious
fize as in fouth America, the chief feature yet known feems to bea lake
of great extent, called Maravi, laid down by D’Anville ae more than
350 B. miles in length, but of inadequate breadth. This lake may
perhaps, like that of Baikal, lie at the foot of the table-land on one
7 fide,
their
THE CENTRAL PARTS OF AFRICA. 777
fide, as that of Aquilunda, of far fmaller extent, does on the other,
The rivers of Barbela in Congo, and Zambezi in Mocaranga, are alfo
grand features 5 which feem to be delineated by D’Anville in his general
map of Africa, and his particular maps of Congo, Angola, and Mo-
caranga, 1731, with as much care and precifionas his Portuguefematerials
would admit. The navigation of the Zambezi is interrupted, for about
twenty leagues, by cataracts or violent rapids, about the diftance of
140 leagues from the fea. To the north are, or were, the Mumbos,
a race of cannibals, who with the Zimbas and Jagas, favages of equal
cruelty, have defolated a great part of fouthern Africa. Should the
Portuguefe retain their poffeffions, it is likely thatthe darknefs may be
the fame in the year 2002 as it is in 1802, when it is little better than it
was in 1602, fome accounts having been then publifhed by Lopez and
Philip Pigafetta. It isto be regretted that in our ftri€ alliance with
Portugal we.do not inftigate that government to ufe fome means to im-
prove the geography of fouthern Africa: and La Cruz’s map of South
America fhould operate as a ftimulus and example. It is probable that
the country is as fertile in the precious metals as the other continent,
and it is wholly unaccountable, anda truly fingular deftiny, that America
fhould be filled with European colonies, while Africa is neglected.
Small colonies on the fhores could effeét nothing in fuch a country,
and the wrongs of Africa can only be terminated by a powerful
European colony, an enterprize worthy of any great European nation,
a {cene of new and vaft ambition, and among the few warfares which
would effentially contribute to the eventual interefts of humanity, and
raife a degraded continent to its due rank in the civilized world.
Meanwhile it is more confonant with the tenor and purpofe of the
prefent work to exprefs a humbler wifh, that fpirited travellers would
explore thefe regions, as the fame of {cience is fuperior to that of arms :
and if we cannot diffufe civilization, and the bleflings of flable and fub-
ordinate fociety, we may, at leaft, by comparifon, learn duly to prize .
their advantages.
a . :
Pee
A$
es
et NS
ee
adopte
fike a
being |
withou
+ I
of Ma
1774,
* Homat
CATALOGUE OF MAPS,
AND OF
BOOKS OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.
ee)
Jn the Maps the Letter L denotes the Large, M the Middle, S the Small,
as explained in the Preface. 4 complete Catalogue of Books of Voyages
and Travels might fill Two ofavo Volumes; but here only a few of th: moft
ufeful and interefling are enumerated, e/pecially the more modern *.
Globes.
Y Adams, Cary, Bardin. The laft from drawings by Mr. Arrows
{mith, with the neweft difcoveries, are defervedly efteemed 3 and the
celeftial globes are alfo executed with great care and precifion. In Cary’s
celeftial globe, 1; 98, the conttellations are only marked by bounding
tints, and the eye is not diftracted with the ridiculous figures of animals,
&c. Some aftronomers however, and they are the beft judges, prefer
the ancient figures, on account of fpeedy and accurate reference +,
Planifphere.
By Arrowfmith, 4 theets, 1794, &c. excellent. His pamphlet called
«¢ A Companion to a Map of the World,” explains the proje&tion, and
contains fome valuable information. There are planifpheres publithed at
Vienna, &c. ftereographically projected for the horizon of the place of
ublication ft.
Smaller Planifpheres by Faden, Harrifon, &c. Northern and Southe
ern Hemifpheres, Faden, 1 th. each 1802,
On Mercator’s Projedion.
Of this Mercator was not, however, the author, as it was ufed long
before his time. The beft on this projeétion is that by Arrowfmith,
790. &c. 8th. That of Faden, 1 fh.
Europe.
Maps L. By de Bouge, Vienna, 1799, 50 half fh. middling. By
Sotzmann, in 16 fh.
* The moft commodious form of arranging maps in a library feems to be that fate!
adopted, of pafling them on canvas, and putting them into a cafe which flands pint |
fike a quarto volume, there being fix folds in the theet of large atlas paper, The volumes
being titled on che baek, and each map or part labeled, it may be confulted with enle
without the trouble of a lorge bound atlas, or the confufion of detached theets,
In geneval geography Varenius may fill be confulted, with the firft and only volume
of Macfait, Edin. 1780, Syo, There is a Catalugue Raifonndée des Cartes by Julien,
1774, 2 tones, 6vo. now rather aniquated; he was allo, it is believed, the vender of
Homann's maps.
t Boullanger’s map of the world, 1760, is on the horizon of a point 45° of the height
of the pole towards the north, In 1774 Father de Gy publithed one fimilar, projeéted on
the horizo:, of Paris, ‘Thefe maps prefent,.ginder one point of view, the four parts of the
world, which, as Fleuried fays, nature has aifeinbled under the fame hemifphere.,
1Q*
980 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
M. By D’Anville, 6 th. 1754. Arrowfmith, 4 fh. 1798.
S. Faden, &c. 1 fh. 1791.
Books. The geography of Bufching in German, or the French tranf.
lation, 1785, 14 vols. 8vo. a prolix work, but containing excellent mates
rials. Supplemental to Bufching’s Europe are the America of Ebeling,
1797, and the Africa of Bruns, 1799; the former tedious, the laft
good. Afia was begun by Borheck 1793, but feems incomplete. In the
French abftra&t of Bufching by Berenger, Laufanne, 1776, &c. 12 vols.
8vo. tolerable accounts of the other regions are added, but the want of
seferences renders them unfatisfactory *.
England.
L. The furveys of the feveral counties, particu!arly Surrey and Suffex, '
by Linley and Gardner, which are trigonometrical. Some of the beft
furveys are publifhed by Faden.
The grand trigonometrical furvey of England will {peedily appear be-
fore the public, in part of Effex ; (the map of Kent being a {pecimen of
the plates, but not of the plan.) -It is reported to excel in accuracy,
abundance of pofitions, clearnefs, and beauty. The whole fheets are
filled to the edges; and when finifhed will compofe one uniform map,
like Caffini’s map of France.
M. Smith’s Atlas. Cary’s Atlas of the counties. Cary’s England
and Wales, S1 4to fhe La Rochette’s map, 12 fh. Andrews, 6 th.
S. Kitchin’s map, 4 fh. Faden, &c, 1 th. 1800,
The maps in Saxton’s Atlas, and Speed’s Theatre, may be confulted
for the fake of curiofity. -
Camden’s Britannia. Aikin’s England delineated, Pennant’s Tours,
Campbell’s Political Survey, a tedious but ufeful work. Arthur Young’s
Tours. Voyage de St. Fond, &c. &c.
Wales.
The maps by Evans, 9 th, Reduced 1 fh. (North Wales). Of South
Wales there is an old bad map by Bowen, 6 fh. Pennant’s Tours,
Evans’s Cambriau Itinerary, Aikin’s Journey, &c. &c.
Scotland.
L. The furveys of various counties.
M. Ainflie’s map, 9 fh. Dorret’s map, 1750, 4 th. feveral miftakes,
S. General Roy’s map, very f{carce. Pennants &c. Ainflie’s rey
duced. Alls hh,
® Exclofive of the old fyftems of geography by Moll, &e. there are in Engliths
Bowen's, 1747, 2 vols. fol. maps: Middleton’s 1777, 2 vols. fol, maps: but the beft of
the kind is that by Fenning, or rather Collyer, who informs us thet ening only wrote
the aflronomical introduétion. The fourth edition is 1773, 2 vols. fol. with maps by
Kitchin. It is, like the others, a decent compilation of the more amufing parts of geos
graphy, but is totally deficient in difcuffion or information ftrifily geographical, Vol, f.
contains Afie and Africa; Vol. II, Europe and Ametica, It is unneceffary to mention the
fucceflive grammars, as they are abfurdly called, of Gordon, Salmon, and Guthrie.
Many mifakes of the latter may be traced in Collyer, neither of them being verfed in geo-
graphy ase fcience, .
"Statiftie
AND BOOKS. mo 988
. Statiftical Account, 21 vols. 8vo.. Camden’s Britannia, by Gough.
Pennant’s Tours. Scotland Delineated. Voyage de St. Fond, &c
Volkmann’s Travels in Scotland and Ireland, Leipfick, 1784, 8vo.
* Lreland,
L. Surveys of fome counties.
M
S. By Dr. Beaufort, 1792, 2d edit. 1797, 2 fh. Dr. Beaufort’s map
reduced, 1 fh. Faden. ‘Taylor’s 1793, 1 fh. Faden,
Young’s Tour, 2 vols. 8vo. excellent. Camden’s Britannia, &c.
France.
L. Caffini’s 183 fh. begun in 1744, 70 fheets were executed before
1767; and the whole was not completed till very lately (about 1794).
Atlas National, 85 fh. neat, the mountains being etched, fo that the thee
does not injure the lettering.
M. The f{maller Atlas National. Several fheets reduced from Caffini,
Faden, &c. &c.
S. On the f{cale of D’Anville’s Ancient Gaul, 1780, 1 th. Faden’s,
&c. 1792, t fh. Index fheet to the large map of Caffini. In depart.
ments by Belleyme, 4 fh. France Phyfique, or @ map of France, fhewing
the mountanis, rivers, &c. by Buache, 1 fh
Voyage dans les Departments, a declamatory work, full of the new
hilofophy and fentimental hypocrify. Defcription General, Paris, 17814
folio. Voyage Pittorefque, Paris, 1784, folio, Arthur Young’s Tour,
folid and excellent. Moor’s View of Society in France. La Croix
Geographie.
Netherlands.
L. By Ferraris, 25 large hh.
M. Atlas des Departments Belgiques. By Schrembl, from Ferraris,
4th. Frontiers of Holland from Ferraris, Faden, 1 fh.
S. By Crome, 1 th. Reduced from Ferraris, by Faden, 1 th. 1789,
Marfhali’s Journey, &c. &c.
Ruffia in Europe.
L. Maps of the feveral governments ; but thefe are in the Ruffian
chara@ter, and unfit for general ufe. The fame, recent, 9th. Some
governments, by Treffcott, &c. in Latin,
Dezanchi’s map of the Krimea. The Krim by Kinfbergen, 4 fh.
be Kulen’s chart of Spitzbergen, 2 fh. &c. &c.
S. Roffian Empire, 3 th. Peterfburg, 1789. By Treffcott and Smidt,
1776, 3 fh. Poft map to Tobolfk, 2 fh. Reduced map, 1 th. London.
yrelof’s map, 1734, 2 fh. curious.
SSE CE
Tooke’s
982 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
Tooke’s View of the Ruffian Empire, 1799, 3 vols. 8vo. Tooke’,
Roffia, 1781, 4. vols. 8vo. Voyage de Palle Pais, 8 vols. 8vo. Hit
toire des Decouvertes, &c. Laufanne, 1784, 6 vols. 8vo. Giorgi’s (pr:
Ghiorghi} Defcription of all the nations in the Ruffian Empire, Peter{-
burg, 1776 to 1780, 4 vols. 4to. in German, or in French Coxe’s
Travels, &ce 3
Aufirian Dominions.
“” L. There are large provincial maps of moft of the Auftrian domini.
ons, and the moft modern are generally the beft ; among the others may
Be mentioned, Atlas of Tyrol, 21 th. Atlas of Bohemia, by Muller, 25
fh, Military Atlas 20 fh. Moravia, by Venuto, 2 fh. Gallitz and Lo.
domer, by Liefkany, 42 {mall fh. Hungary, by Artaria and Company,
4 th.; By Schrembl, 4 th. better. Trantyivaniay by Schrembl, 2 ih
Sclavonia, &c. by the fame, 2 fh. Venetian territory (in Dalbe). Atlas
of Gallitz and Lodomir, with the Bukovin, by Maire, 12 th.
M. Auftria, by the Artarian Company, Vienna, 1800. 1 large th.
Bohemia, by Schmettau, 4 fh. Venice, &c. by Santini. Chauchard’s
Germany. Oblong Atlas, by Kempen, too minute and crowded. Wel-
tern Gallitz, by Lichtenftern, 1 th
S. Auftrian dominions, 1 th. by Baron Lichtenftern, 1795 ; this map
embraces the Netherlands. Hungary by Windifch, + th.; the fame in
Townfon’s Journey, 1 fh. Muller’s Bohemia, reduced, 1: fh. Bannat,
s fh. Old maps of the Venetian territory, by Nolin, 2 th. ; by De Witt,
Homann, Sanfon, Jaillot, 1 fh. antiquated ; the laft mentioned is the
beft.
Townfon’s Travels in Hungary. Riefbeck’s Travels, Wraxall’s Me-
moirs. Boro’s Travels in Hungary and Tranfylvania, and thofe in the
Bannat. Beaumont’s Rhatian Alps. Dalmatia, by Fortis.
Pruffian States.
L. Poland and Pruffia, by Zannoni, 25 th. Atlas by Sotzmann,
21 fh. All the provinces publifhed feparately. Atlas of Silefia, by
Mayer, 20 fh.
M. Sotzmann’s, 16 4to fh.
S. Pruffian dominions, a French map reduced from Sotzmann, 2 th.
Reduced by Sotzmann, t fh. 1800,
Marfhall’s Travels. Coxe. Riefbek. Wraxall, &c.
Spain.
L. The geography of this country is imperfect ; the beft atlas is that
of Lopez, but it is poorly and inaccurately executed. The coafts have
been drawn by Tofino, the royal aftronomer, with great care, and pub-
lifhed at Madrid 1798. As Lopez remains the chief a thority for the
interior, a brief view of his work may be proper.
Atlas Geografico de Efpana, compuefo por Don Tomas Lopez y Vargas,
Geografo por Kg M. de Sus Reales Denia, dela real Academia de S. Fire
nando, de lareal Sociedad Bafcongada, &c. Madrid 1792. Imperial 4to.
Map 1. Ancient Spr'a. 2, Modern Spain, fingle th, 1788 ; ~——
rom,
anothe
Turke
Contta
Baffand
L.t
will be
North
* The
gre. Th
AND BOOKS. ‘98
from the Peak of Tenerif. He accufes the foreign maps of errors in the
divifion of the governments, and the courfe of mountains and rivers. 3.
‘The Pyrenees, from Sanfon. 4. Modern Spain, 4 th. by Lopez, 1792.
': Province of Madrid. 6. Ditto of Toledo. . 7. Archbifhopric of ‘To-
edo, 4 fh. Then about 36 provincial maps, with Majorca, Minorca,
Ivica, or Iviza. States of Barbary. The harbours of Tripoly and Tunis.
The bay of Algiers, with the attacks 1783 and 1784. Plans of other
African harbours. The Iflands Azores. The Canary Iflands. Parti-
cular maps of the Canary Iflands. Chart of the gulf of Mexico, and of
the Weft Indies. Cuba, Hifpaniola, Porto Rico. The Leffer Antilles,
or Caribbee Iflands. The Iflands Lucayos. The environs of Mexico.
Tierra Fermé. Province of Carthagena. Other American provinces.
Plan of Quito. Marianne Iflands, by Lopez, 1784. In Spanifh maps
the north is marked by acaftle, the badge of Caftile——Minorca, 2 th. by
de la Rochette, 1780.
M. Spain by Mentelle and Chanlaire, Paris, 1799, 9 fh. well engraved.
S. By Lopez, 4 th. By the fame, 1 fh. Faden, 1 fh.,
Townfend’s Travels. Burgoang, Baretti, Link, &c. Thofe of
Dillon are chiefly tranflated from Bowles’s Spanifh work on the natural
hiftory of the areas Ponz, Viage de Efpana, {2 vols. 8vo. Ma-
drid, 1776*. Swinburn’s Travels, gto. ifcher’s Travels, 180%.
, 2 vels. 8vo. Fr, tre
r)
9 Turkey in Europe. ;
” L. Geography very imperfeét. Moldavia, 6 fh. by Bawr. Mole
davia, &c. 1788, 2 th. Danube by Mansfeld, 7 {mall th. The fame
. by Marfigli. Bulgaria by Schenk. Beffarabia, &c. by Guffefeld. Greece
by D’Anville ; and the Atlas to the Travels of Anachartis. The Pro-
a by Zemenic ; by Chevalier, 2 th.; and the two ftraits publithed
by Faden, 1786, (by La Rochette).
M. Wallachia by Ruhedorf, 1788, 1 fh. curious.
S. Turkey in Europe by Arrowfmith, 2 fh. Faden’s Map, 1 fhe
é Greece by La Rochette, 1 fh. :
Y
The Travels in Greece and the Levant are innumerable. Among the
beft are Wheeler, Chandler, and Tournefort, with the Voyage Pitto-
refque, and Stewart’s Antiquities of Athens. D’Ohffon ‘Tableau de
Empire Otoman, 2 tomes fol. The lait by Olivier, 1802, is only.
another voyage to the Levant. Yet the northern and weftern parts of
Turkey in Wirons have been rarely vifited. Bofcovich Viaggio da
Conftantinopoli in Polonia, con una fua relazione delle rovine di Troja,
Baffano, 1784, 8vo.
Holland.
L. there are provincial maps of all the provinces, but the new furvey
will be preferable. Wiebeking’s Holland and Utrecht, 1796, 8 fh,
North Holland, 16 hh.
Reduced, 4 th.
® There are many other large defcriptions of Spain, as the Atlante Bros 14 vols,
gre. There is alfo a0 Univerial Geographical Dictionary by Were ; in 3 vols. 4tu.
M. The
oe)
CATALOGUE OF MAPS
784
M. The United Provinces by Zepp, a good clear map. De
8. The Seven United Provinces, with the Land of Drent and Gene. sats
rality Lands, 1794, by Faden, 1 fh. Mr. Faden’s maps are in general
highly to be praifed for accuracy and neatnelfs.
Ray’s Travels. ‘Thofe of Marfhall and Mrs. Radcliffe, &c. &e. - a
Febure Itineraire, 1784, 2 tomes, 12mo. Pilati, 1780, 2 tomes, 12mo,. }
S
Denmark. fap
L. Moft of the provinces are completed under the direction of Bygge
the aftronomer ; and fome good maps of the fhores, &c. have been pube Cc
lifhed by Lowenorn. fori
M. The Ifle of Zeeland, &c. by Weffel, 1777, 1 hh. chie
S. Denmark Proper, (by E. P.) Copenhagen, 1763, 1 th. mifer.
ably engraved. Norway by C. J. Pontoppidan, 1785, 3 th. good,
and decently engraved. The fame in Baron Hermelin’s reduced map,
Iceland by Erichfen and Olavius, 1780, 1 fh. but the projeétion is er- L
roneous, the length being one-third too great: See the Voyage of La milit
Crenne, Paris, 1778, and the Journal of Zach, vol. vi. The Ferroe or fi
Ifles by Lowenorn: Norway and Sweden, 1 fh. Faden. The fame, £6 fh
Pontoppidan, 1 fh. There are feveral maps of Denmark, Sweden, there
Norway, and Iceland, all comprifed in 1 fh. ding,
Marfhall’s Travels. Coxe, &c. Von Troil’s Iceland. The map is oe
allo {
carelefsly drawn, and among other omiffions are the names of the rivers;
in p. 5. there muft be fome grofs error in diftance. Voyage to Norway
by Fabricius, 1779, in German,
Sweden.
L. Baron Hermelin’s Atlas of the Provinces, Stockholm, 1797, is °
excellent, and adorned with interefting profpeéts in Lapland, &c,
M
S. Hermelin’s reduced map. Faden’s by La Rochette. 1704.
Travels of Maupertuis, Coxe, Marfhall, Wraxall, &c.
Portugal.
L. The geography is perhaps worfe than that of Spain; and Link
has pointed out many grofs errors in the maps by Lopez, &c. A new
furvey is in progrefs,
M. By Lopez, in 8 fh. bad. By Jefferys, improved by Gen. Rainf-
ford, 6 fh. new edition, 1790.
S. The chorographical map by De la Rochette, publifhed by Fa-
quarter.
which tl
den, 1797, 1 th. perhaps the beft yet executed. Compare it with pal, 17:
that by Lodge after Zanoni. For a grofs error of Lopez fee Link, ly + Th
Nuremb
¢hat nan
executed
P- 257+
Link’s Travels, 1801, 8vo. the beft account ref given of the coun.
try. Murphy, Southey, &c. Lima’s Geography of Portugal, 1736.
Defcription
is “
AND BOOKS. “85
Defcription of Portugal, Lifbon, 1785, with an account of Portuguefé
iaints *.
Swifferland.
L. The Atlas by Weifs, geographical engineer, Strafburg, an. 8,
1800. &c. excellent. '
M. The old map by Scheuchzer, 4 fh.
S. The reduced map by Weifs, 1 fi. excellent. By Mechel, 1799,
1 fh. good, That in Coxe’s Travels is of little value, from the great
fuperiority of thefe two.
Coxe’s Travels, the beft of all the modern feries. Bourrit, De-
{cription des Glaciers. The celebrated Travels of Sauffure to the Alps
chiefly relate to the French and Italian chains.
German States.
L. There are large maps of moft of the cleStorates. Saxony : The
military atlas, &c. and the maps of the diftris. Brun/wick-Lunenburg,
or Hanover s many maps of the diftri€ts. Mecklenburg Schwerin, °
56 th. Strelitz, 9 th. Duchy of Berg, 4 th. On the South of the Mayn
there is an atlas of Bavaria by Riedl: and an atlas of Suabia, 1 a
ding, of courfe, the Duchy of Wurtemburg,) in 30 fh. The Duchy
of Wartemburg by Vifcher, 1 fh. Of all the other ftates there are
alfo topographical maps +.
M. Chauchard’s map of Germany 9 fh. (the fupplement may well be
omitted) has a deferved reputation ; but it is to be regretted that he has
not {pecified the mountains and hills.» Maps of Germany, neith and
fouth of the Mayn, are wanted on a large fcale. The electorates, &c.
may be had in fingle fheets. Wiebeking’s Lower Rhine, or Frontier
between France and Germany 10 fh. {.
S.A map of Germany in 4 fh. by Covens, bad. By Zannoni, mid-
dling. By Klein, in fome eftimation. Germany, 4 fh. by de la Rochette.
Dominions of the King of Great Britain in Germany, 1 fh. Faden, 1789.
Germany, from the map of the Royal Academy at Berlin, Faden, 1788,
1 fh. The German rivers, 4 fh. The fame, 1 fh,
Riefbeck’s Travels, the beft general journey through Germany. Nu-
gent’sin Mecklenburg, dull. The Travels on the Rhine by Mrs, Rad-
cliffe, Cogan, Gardnor, &c. Travelsin Germany are either too local,
or embrace France and Italy, as Keyfler, &c. &c. In German are thofe
of Nicolai, 8 vols. Lefkein Lufatia. The Hartz by Lafius; or the
® The Azores properly belong to Europe, and fhould be included in maps of that
quarter. The defcription thould have followed that of Portugal, the neareft Jand, and to
which they belong. The moft recent account is that of Adanfon, jn his Voyage to Senc-
gal, 1759, 8vo. ‘There is a detavhed map by Lopez’; and another by Simpfon, publithed
hy Laurie and Whittle. One by Tofino, 1 fh. excellent. By Bellin, 1 fh. 1755.
+ ‘The maps of Homann are now of no ufe except for German Provinces. Homann of
Nuremburg died in 1724; but his heirs and fucceffors continued to publifh maps under
that name for forty or fags tae ; and among the latter there are (ome of German provinces
exceuted by able hands, See a memoir concerning Homann in the Geograph. Ephem. Nov.
1801. p.464, There are foe good recent maps of German provinces by Mannert of
Nuremburg, Jaeger’s Germany, 81 fh. corrie, Hanover Poft map, 4 th,
3 Wieheking’s maps of the Rhine, 1796, are very complete,
3k iter
986 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
iter of Ritter, 1740, ato. On the S. of the Mayn, Bianconi’s Bavaria;
and the German works of Hacquet and Gerken. Voy
576
Ltaly.
L. The maps of thie various ftates divided into provinces, &c. States
ef the King of Sardinia by Borgognie, 25 fh. copied by Faden, 176s; A
12 th. Ligurian Republic, 8 fh. Republic of Genoa by Chaffrion, Hal
copied by Faden, 1783, 8 fhe Anexcellent large new map of Naples, Chin
by Zannoni, is in progrefs. i years
M. Each of the ftates on one fheet. paoies by Zannoni, 1769, 4 fh. thod:
Sicily by Schmettav, 4 fh. good and fcarce. Dominions of the more
Church, by Maire and Bofcovich, 3 fh. Lombardy, &c. by Zannoni, fome
4th. very rare. Cifalpine Republic, by Delamarche, 2 fh. Malta and’ journ
Gozo by Palmeus; copied by Faden, 1799, 2fh. &e. Kiang of little
Sardinia’s dominions by Caroly, 4 fh. (For Venice, &c. fee Auttria.) “
a
The travels in Italy are very riumerous. Among the beft may be that |
mentioned Cochin, 3 vols. 8vo. Paris 1773, ufefil for artifts. Lalande, Th
gvols, 8vo. with an atlas, Paris, 1716, a good general compilation *. count:
Martyn, London, 1791, 8vo. the beft fhort guide. Moore’s'Viewof Socie- Part o
ty and Manners.in Italy. Dr. Smith’s Travels, 1793, 3 vols. Young’s maps ¢
Travels in France, for the north of Italy. To which may be added China
the travels of Ferber, Spallanzani, and Tozetti, &c, and the Diarium
Ltalicum of Montfaucon. Swinburn’s Travels in.the Two Sicilies. Niet
Voyag
geogra
Afia. 15 vale
countr
By D’Anville, 6 th. ftill a valuable map for confultation and compari.
fon. By Arrowimith, 1801, 4 th. the beft extant, tereftin
erentlyy
“4 Turkey in Afia. Travel
By Hazius, Vaugondy, &c. 1 fh. The Euphrates and Tigris by
D’Anville. Paleftine by the fame +.
The Travels of Sandys, Wheeler, Chandler, Chevalier, &c. &c..
Maundrell’s Journey to Jerufalem. Ruffell’s Aleppo, &c. Mariti’s g anes
OF the c
ts ‘pruse
ed D’Anvi
by Rob
Kem
Afiatic Ruffia.
The maps of the governments are of little ufe, being in the Ruffian
chara@ter. Thofe of the Ruffian empire have been already mentioned,
‘There are Latin maps of fome of the governments by Treffcott and
others. The two tin maps of the river Irtifh, by Iflenieff, are
curious and important ; as is Mr. Ellis’s Map and Memoir of the
Country between the Cafpian and the Euxine, 1788.
The
dia is ve
Mr. Dal
and for
deferved]
Voyage de Pallas, Giorgi, &c. Thefe interefting travels are abridged
in the Hiftoire des Decouvertes Ruffes, Berne, 6 vols, 8vo. Patrin,
Louhe
Richa
* The Deferiprion Hiftorique of Richard, 6 vols. Svo. is preferred to La.ande, rd,
+ In general the beft maps of AGa, America, and Africa, maybe confulted for each country,
5t Voyage.
* Mefits
Particularly
AND BOOKS. 989
Voyage au Mont Altai, 1781, 12mo. Muller, Hiftoiredu flewwe Amur,
1766, 12mo. Bell’s Travels, &c.
Chinefe Empire.
Atlas by D’Anville, which ought to accompany the work of 1)
Halde. There are 42 maps of various fizes, of which 16 conta
China Proper and its provinces, a€tually furveyed, in the courfe of many
years, by the jefuitsy and probably with as much accuracy as the me-
thods and inftruments then ufed would admit. Eaftern Tatary, or
more properly the country of the Mandfhurs and Monguls, has alfo
fome claims to accuracy, as the jefuits attended the emperor on frequent.
journeys into thefe provinces: but to the weft of the river Etzine
little dependence eh placed; and the delineations of Little Bucharia,
and Tibet are certainly grofsly inaccurate. —.
Tatary by Witfen, 1687, 6 fh. curious, muft not be confounded with
that by De Witt, 1 th. By Strahlenberg, 1737, curious,
The beft {mall map of China is that of D’Anville, 1 th. This
country is alfo well delineated in his Afia, and in that of Arrowfmith.
Part of the empire is illuftrated in the maps of Iflenieff, and the Ruffian
maps of the boundaries. See alfo the maps in Grofier’s account of
China : but particularly thofe in the Hiftoire Generale de la Chine.
Nieuhoff’s Voyage, excellent. Du Halde’s China. Ozbeck’s
Voyage. Gaubil’s Genghiz Khan, Paris, 1739. 4to. for the Chinefe
geographygf Mongolia, The Memoires Chinoifes by Amyot, Paris,
15 vols, gto. chiefly relate to the manners, {ciences, and hiftory of the
country: but the Hiftoire Generale de la Chine, 12 vols, 4to. is an in«
terefting work, and a fingular monument of French fcience. Add the
excellent Travels of Bell, 2 vols. 4to. or 8vo.; and particularly Sir
ony Staunton’s Account of the embafly to China, and Van Braam’s
ravels,
Japan.
There is no good large map, thofe of Kempfer only difplaying part
of the coafts along which he travelled, while his general map is {mall.
D'Anville has made fome improvements ; and there is a map in one fh,
by Robert *. : }
Kzmpfer’s Japan, and Thunberg’s Travels, both excellent.
Birman Empire, &e.
The maps in Mr. Symes’s Journey.. The geography of Exterior In-
dia is very imperfect, but expected to be improved by the refearches of
Mr. Dalrymple. For Siam D’Anville’s map of Afia may be confulted s
and for the outline of the coalts the charts of D’Afprés, which are
defervedly efteemed.
Loubere’s Siam. Turpin, Hiftoire de Siam, Paris, 1771, 2 volte
Richard, Hiftoire de Tonquin, Paris, 1778, 2 vols, Svo.
* Meffrs. Roberts, the father and fon, were geographers of confiderable reputations
particularly Robert, ityled de Vangondy.
gE 2 Hindoftan,
oe
on See As, ee -— ere ce te
AEE Ss INO LG AO PS
ssi
MOS a tes
Rig hn eae
aS Bg
on Seas
a EN
pres
788 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
Hindofian.
Rennell’s map, 4 fh. De la Rochette’s, 1 th. good, 3d edit. 1800,
Rennell’s Atlas of Bengal. His map of the fouthern part, dated sth
April 1800. D’Anville’s Hindoftan is antiquated and full of miftakes,
Peninfula of India, Faden, 1795, 2 fh.
Hamilton’s New Account of the Eaft Indies. Voyage de Bernier,
excellent, though old. , Bartholomeo (Wefdin’s) Voyage, excellent for
the fouthern parts. Hodges’s Travels. Woyage de Sonnerat, 2 vols.
4to. The account by Tieffenthaler, in Bernouilli’s collection, is a dulf
and tedious chorography. Knox’s Ceylon, &c.
Perfia.
There is no large map of this interefting country. That of de Lifle #,
in 1 fh. may be compared with the Afia of D’Anville or Arrowfmith,
The materials are vague and imperfe&t; and there can be little dependence
on the longitudes or latitudes even of the beft Oriental geographers,
The recent map by Wahl is illegible ; but deferves to be re-engraved in
a fuperior manner, and on a larger fcale. That of La Rochette, to il-
luftrate the marches of Alexander, is very beautiful, and drawn up with
confiderable care. Georgia and Armenia, 4 fh. 1780.
Voyage de Chardin, 4 vols. 4to. ‘Thevenot’s Travels, bad. Taver-
nier, good. Le Brun, bad, and the plates feem to be frequently fabri«
cations, as ufual in the Dutch books of travels}. Hanway’s Travels
are good, though prolix. The Journey of Franklin inftyétive and
amufing for the us ern part, while the northern is well illuftrated by
Gmelin. After Olivier’s firft volume, little can be expected from his
fecond. Otter’s Journey, 17425 ranks among the betft, but he is too
full of quotations from the Oriental geographers. Della Valle efteemed.
The Journey of Olearius, of the envoys from Holftein,
Arabia.
Maps of feveral provinces occur in Niebuhr’s defcription ; and it is to
be regretted that he did not publifh an entire new map. There is an old
map BP Vander Aa; but the beft are thofe in the Afia of D’Anville and
Arrowfmith, the former is publifhed apart by Laurie and Whittle, as
are likewife Perfia, and Turkey in Afia.
Niebuhr, Voyage en Arabie, 2 tomes, 4to, and his Defcription de
PArabie, 1 tome, gto. ‘To which may be added, la Roque, Voyage en
Arabia Heureufe, and the Voyage dans la Paleftine, Paris, 1717, 8vo.
which contains Abulfeda’s Defcription of Arabia.
Afiatic Iflands.
Chart by Arrowfmith, 4 theets, excellent. D’Anville’s Afia. Map
of Sumatra, in Marfden. Of Java, in Stavorinus. The Philippines,
® There is one by Homann of Nuremburg, but that manufaure is in little efteem,
In the Voyage of Niebuhr there is an interefting map of the vicinity of Perfepolis.
+ Thole by Vander Aa are particularly obnoxious; the prints, as in Mandet-
‘Give 1719 or 1717, being often transferred from old broks; nay, fometimes, the fame
view will ferve for a great number of places, whether they fteud on rocks or plains.
I
*.
D’ Anville’
AND BOOKS. 989
D’Anville or Arrowfmi:h’s Afia. Of the interior of Borneo, Celebez,
&c. little is known.
“Marfden’s Account of Sumatra, Foreft’s Voyage to Papua. Voy-
ages of Stavorinus, &c. &c. Valentyn’s account of the Dutch pof-
{effions in. the Eaft Indies, publifhed about 1728, confifts of eight
large folio volumes, with upwards of a thoufand copper plates, and
is extremely rare even in Holland, Sonnerat, Voyage de la Nouvelle
Guinée, 4to.
AUSTRALASIA.
New Holland, &c. in Arrowfmith’s Chart of the Pacific, g fheets.
‘The fame reduced, 1 sheet.
De Broffes, Hiftoire des Navigations aux Terres Auftrales, Paris,
1756, 2 vols, gto. excellent. Dalrymple’s Collegtion of Voyages in
the Pacific,.2 thin vols, 4to. and Supplement, curious and _ intereft-
ing. La Borde, Hift. de la Mer de Sud, Paris, 1791, -3 vols. 8vo.
Cook’s Voyages. Governor Phillip’s, Collin’s Hiftory of the Colony,
qto. &c. '
Pouynesta. .
Arrowfmith’s Chart of the Pacific. Maps in De Broffess and of
Otaheite and Tongataboo in the Miflionary Voyage. Iflandof Naviga-
tors, in that of La Peroufe, &c. &c.
Cook’s Voyages, Captain Bligh’s, Thofe of La Peroufe; The
Miffionary Voyage. Gobien’s Account of the Ladrones, Defcription
of the Caroline Tfands in the Supplement to De Brofles, &c. &¢,
AMERICA.
_ North and South by D’Anville, 5 theets, 1746, 1748, or by Green,
1753, for the progrefs of the geography. But there is no recent gene»
ral map of thiscontinent, which can be recommended. That of De-
lifle, 1739, 1 theet, curious, and exact forthe time. By La Rochette,
§797, 1 theet.
Morfe’s American Geography, 4to or 8v0,
Nortn America,
‘ Arrowfmith’s map, with improvements and additions to 1802, abont
§ feet by 4, excellent. It is to be regretted that the Spanith dominions
in North America are not. included. For thefe recourfe muft be
er D’Anville, or to the map of the Weft Indies by Jefferys,
36 fheets,
United States,
L. There are maps of moft of the provinces; and a general Atlag
publithed at Philadelphia, but in little efteem.
990 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
M. Arrowfmith’s map, with corrections to 1802, 4 fh.
S. Single theet, common. The provinces in Mr. Morfe’s work.
ee
Morfe’s Geography. The travels of Kalm, Burnaby, Weld, Roche.
foucault, Briffon, &c.
Spanifb Dominions in North America.
A great deficiency in the geography, as the Spaniards are peculiarly
jealous of thefe rich fettlements, their chief tenure on the new conti-
nent. The Mexican dominions in general feem delineated with confi-
derable accuracy in the map of the Wett Indies by Jefferys, 16 th. cor-
re&ted and improved to 1792 ; and the fame reduced, 2 fh. or Bolton’s
maps in Poftlethwayte’s Dictionary of Commerce. There are maps of
fome provinces by Lares. Others by Sanfon of Old and New Mexico,
&c. California by Conftanzo, 2 fh.1771. New Spain, by Alzate, in
Spanifh, x fh. Theenvirons of Mexico may be found in Careri, from
a drawing by Boot, an engineer employed to drain the lake. Anothee
in Clavigero. The bay of Honduras and environs are publifhed apart
by Faden. Anew map of the Spanifh dominions in North America,
excluding the Weft Indies, is greatly wanted.
Recourfe muft be had to old writers, the beft being Gage, 2d edit.
1655, fol. or the French tranflation, Amft. 1721, 2 vols. razmo. The
6th, or laft vol. of Gemelli Careri contains New Spain. This work is
now acknowledged by the beft judges to be genuine, and a voyage
round the world has ceafed to attract much obfervation, as there would
be little difficulty in pafling to China, and thence to America and
Europe. There feems no doubt that Careri performed this circuit : the
fault is that the book is rather a diary of trifles than a work of folid
information. There is a Spanith hiftory of Cinaloa by Perez de Roxas,
For Louifiana, now fubjeét to the United States, the works of Du
Pratz, Charlevoix, &c. may be confulted. The voyages of Pagés
round the world, and to the north and fouth pole, feem very doubtful,
as may be judged, among other circumftances, from his defcription of
Mexico. he beft recent account of Mexice, but unfortunately fhort,
is given by Chappe D’Auteroche in his voyage to California, London,
1778, 8vo. Memoirs of the Jefuits concerning California, 3 vols. ato.
Madrid, 1757. Noticias Americanas, Mad. 1801, 8vo, Cardenas,
Hittoria de la Florida. Alcedo’s DiGtionary.
Britifo Poffeffions.
Arrowfmith’s map of North America. Smith’s Upper Canada, 1.{h.
1800.
eee Ce
The Travels of Hearne and Mackenzie, Lahontan, Charlevoix,
Weld, &c.
Native Tribes.
Colden’s Five Nations. Lafi:au’s Manners of the Savages, but the
figures do not reprefent. the people ; and the deferiptions are not of un.
impeached
AND BOOKS. 791
impeached accuracy. Charlevoix. Du Pratz. Greenland, by Egede,
‘or Crantz. Travels by Carver, Hearne, and Mackenzie, &c. Adair’s
Hititory of the American Indians contains a few curious facts, diftorted
by an abfurd fyftem.
North American Iflands, or Weft Indies.
Large maps may be had of moft of the Mands. The Weft Indies
by Jefferys, 16 fh, Reduced 1 fh. Bolton’s maps in Poftlethwayte’s
Di&tionary, and thofe in the Hiftory of the Weft Indies by Mr.
Edwards,
Labat’s Voyages to the Weft Indies, 6 tomes, 8vo. There are dee
tached French voyages to feveral of their iflands ; but the accounts of the
Spanifh are, as ufual antiquated. Among the Englifh are Ligon’s Bar-
badoes. Sloane’s Jamaica. Jefferys has publifhed an account of the
Spanifh Iflands, with 32 maps and plans, London, +762, 4to. The beft
account of the Brit'fh is that by Edwards. Raynal’s work is funk into
difefteem, and is fait by Mr, Edwards to have no more truth than Robin-
fon Crufoe. He was one of the new French philofophers, who affe& to
be learned by fpecial infpiration.
Sourn America.
The map of La Cruz, engraved'at Madrid for royal prefents, 1775,
and publifhed at London, by Mr. Faden, 1779, 6 th. the beft yet given.
Maps of fome of the provinces are among the works of Lopez, but as
ufual, of little accuracy. The environs of Quito, where the degree was
meafured, may be found in Bouguer, or in the French edition of
Ulloa. In 1750 D’Anville publithed the province of te 4 fh.
But La Cruz mutt be preferred, though by a ridiculous failure he have
omitted to denote in a proper manner the great chain of the Andes, and
the other ridges; there are alfo fome political difguifes. In 1774
Falkner, who had been a miffionary, publifhed a map of Patagonia in
2 fh. but it will be found very erroneous, when compared with La Cruz.
The Rio de la Plata, and fome other portions, are alfo publithed apart ;
and our affiento and contraband trade has contributed to improve the
geography.
Spanifo Poffeffions.
The maps above mentioned. Peru from the aftronomical obfervations
of Condamine, &c. Paris, 1h. Malefpina’s Survey of the coatt, from the
Rio de Plata to Panama, S. and W. 5 fh. excellent.
The voyage of Ulloa. The bett tranflation 1s the French, 2 vols. ato.
for in the Englith, 2 vols. 8vo. many important tables, &c. are omitted
and the prints fo miferably reduced that they are alike ufelefs and un-
leafant. Voyage de Condamine. Lettre de Monfieur Godin, Bouguer,
‘igure de la Terre, for an excellent account of Peru. Dobrizhoffer, &c.
&c. Wafer’s defcription of the Ifthmus of Darien, 1699. Voyage de
Frezier,1717, 2 tomes, 12mo, Gily. Storia de Terra Firma, 4 vols, Rome
1780. Vidaurre, Compendio del Chili, Bologna, 1776, 8vo. Viage al
efrecho de Magellanea de orden de S. M. to, Molina, Storia Naturale
gE 4 del
ae a
eine Gana
334
eR nn
ze =
n+ eo
~
ain IE
ie ars ie eS Pe = 3 =
= —s Sa SS
ms "= ene EE SB
are Sas
792 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
del Chili, Bologna, 1782, 8vo. Storia Civile del Chili, Bologna, 1787,
8vo. both good.
Portuguefe.
The Portuguefe ere the moft illiterate of European nations, and the
accounts of their fettlements in Ameri¢a and Africa obfolete and imper-
fe&t. Even the geography of their own country is a mafs of errors ;
and if they have any maps of Brazil, they are without the fmalleft claim
to common accuracy or reputation. Blauw publifhed a map of Brazil,
when a great part was poffefled by the Dutch. The Spanifh map of
La Cruz is the beft modern authority, though here D’Anville feem
copied. In Bougainville’s voyage to the Falkland Iflands there are
fome local maps and plans.
The Voyage of Bougainville; Sir George Staunton’s Account of the
Embafly to China; with the works of Faria tranflated by Stevens ;
Oforio ; Barros the Portuguefe Livy, &c, &c*,
| French,
French maps of Cayenne may be compared with La Cruz; but the
wide debated lands are now refigned to the French, with a yet farther
extenfion of territory towards the river Maranon.
‘The Voyage of Des Marchais publithed by Labat, 4 vols. with a
map by D’Anville ; and many recent voyages, &c. &c,
Dutch.
There ie a detached and rare, but coarfe, chart of the fhores and rivers,
rinted at Amfterdam ; with feveral Englifh charts of the river Surinam,
by Walker, 4 th, &c. Guiana by Captain Thompfon, 1783, 1 th,
Bancreft's Natural Hiftory of Guiana. Stedman's Surinam, &¢.
Native Tribes.
The map of La Cruz. Hiftory of Paragua by Charlevoix, Doh-
rizhoffer do Abiponibus, Vienna, 1784. Molina 8 Chili, &c.
Lands conne&ed with South America.
“Ulloa’s Voyage. Bougainville’s Voyage to the Falkland Iflands,
Cook’s Voyages, &c.
® Lafiteu's Hiftory of the Difcoveries and Conquefts of the Portuguefe in the New
World, Paris, 1733, 2 vols, 4to, o¢ 12mo, euds with 1580, when Portugal became fub-
jee to Spain. It would have been valuable, as Robertfon, in his Hiftory of Americe,
wholly omitted the Portuguefe fettlements; but the title is grofsly erroneous, as the
work je reftrifted to the Portuguefe eftablithments in Hindo/tan, and is arranged according
to the feries of governors of Beg fome flight references to African affairs ; nor is
Brazil perhaps once mentioned in this hiftory of le tranfadtions, dans le nonuvean
qoande, to ufe the words in the title, by a portentogs error which feems 10 evince that e
man may be a jefuit and yet want common fenfe, The
AND BOOKS.
AFRICA,
The maz of D’Anyille, 1749, 3 th. is ftill the beit, excepting the
parts explored by Park and Browne, and may be compared with that
of Delifle. That publifhed by Wilkinfon, 1800, 4 fh. is decent, but
there are feveral errors, and fome miitaken applications of ancient geo-
graphy. The detached maps by Rennel may be confulted. In Sauge
nier’s voyage, 1792, there is a French map which may afford fome
hints, but there are many miftakes, The maps in Shaw’s work are
fingularly confufed, from the mixture of Latin and Arabian names, but
deletes to be re-engraved with improvements, That in Lempriere’s
Morocco feems tolerably exa&t ; and from it fome important pofitions,
as the city of Morocco, the chief ridge of Atlas, &c. may be cole
lected.
Africa by Hafius, 1737, 1 th. By Robert, 1760, 4 fh, By Gene
dron, Madrid, 1754, 1 th |
Aby ffinia,
The map in Bruce’s Travels may be compared with thofe of Tellez,
that of Ludolf, and the Africa of D’Anville.
The Travels of Alyarez, 1520. Thofe of Lobo, 1625, tranflated
by Dr. Johnfon. The account of Abyflinia by Tellez, Lifbon, 1660,
folio, Ludolf’s Ethiopia, 2 vols, folio, Poncet’s Journey, 12mo.
or in Lockman’s Trayels of the Jefuits, 2 vols, 8vc, Bruce’s Travels,
5 vols. gto.
Egypt.
The map of D’Anville, and Memoir. The delta by Niebuhr, &c.
Lower Egypt, &c. by La Rochette, 1802, 1 th.
Travels oP Pococke, Norden *, Niebyhr, Browne, The late French
accounts. Volney, Savary, Denon,
Mabhometan States,
The maps of Shaw for ‘i > and Tunis. The general maps and
Lempriere for the others. ez and Morocco, after Tofino, Hoett,
and Lempriere, by Canfler, 1797. Mediterranean, 4 th, 1785, Faden.
Shaw's Travels in Barbary, or rather in Algiers and Tunis; the beft
edition is the 4to, The Travels of Poiret are trifling, and Chenier’s
book a feeble compilation, Lempriere, good, Hoeft, 1779, in Da-
nith ov Germany good. Agrell in Swedifh, 1800. For Tripoli, Bruce
and the publications of the African Society may be confulted.| The
curious reader may look into Addifon’s Welt Barbary, 1671, or Ocke
ley’s 1713. In general Dr. Dapper's Account of Africa, or Ogilby’s
tranflation, may {till be ufed with advantage, as there are few more recent
accounts of feyeral countries, whence their laboyrs in this region alone
of the globe are not wholly fuperannuated, Sanfon publithed at Paris
adefcription of Africa, 1656, 1669, 4to. with feveral maps,
@ There js a French edition, 1800, 4to,
Welera
peer esiinenst casingstidinseoneeny
diana aeesundetseenete eee
CaN i. "
Pnee - = eR
or =e 2 -
PE ag re
794 CATALOGUE OF MAPS,
Weftern Coaft.
There are old maps of Congo, &c. The account of Lopez or Pi.
gafetta, Mandelflo, Dapper*, Cavazzi, &c. and {mall detached maps
by D’Anville, 1731. Of the river Congo there is a chart by Max.
well, 2 th.
A defcription of Congo by Lopez, or rather by Philip Pigafetta
from the papers of Lopez, was originally eg in Italian, Rome,
wh nglith by Hartwell, 1397,
4to. in Latin it forms the firft part of the Smaller Voyages of De ry»
1591, 4to. whence it was tranflated into
3598, folio, and there is an appendix by Bruno, 1625, folio.
Defcrizione Lftorica delli tre Regni, Congo, Matamba, & Angola
diate dal P. Gio. Ant. Cavazzie Bologna, 1687, folio, pp. be 3s
large prix, with plates; or Milan, 1690, 4to. This curious work
was tranflated by Labat in his Ethiopie Occidentale, Paris, 5 tomes,
z2mo. which muft not be confounded with the Afrique Occidentale of
that voluminous compiler. In 1776 Proyart publifhed at Paris his Hif-
tory of Loango, from papers of French miflionaries 1766, -with a new
but imperfe& map, a curious and interefting work +.
Labat’s Collection. Bofman’s Guinea. Norris’s Account of Dav
homey. Park’s Travels. Adanfon’s Senegal.
The Cape.
The Survey by Barrow. The Travels of De la Caille, Paterfon,
Sparman, Barrow, &c. As repeated falfehoods have been detected in
Vaillant?s books, efpecially the laft journey, they are chiefly to be read
for amufement.
, The Eaftern Coaft.
There is @ {mall map by D’Anville, called Ethiopie Occidentale, which
comprifes Mocaranga, and other dominions of the Monomotapa or em-
peror, 17325 but of thefe fingular and interefting countries the geogra-
phy and defcriptions are alike imperfect, nor is there even a miffionary
modern account of Mocaranga, Sofala, Sabia, &c ¢{. The letters of
the Jefuits probably prefent fome materials; but Lockman’s is an
injudicious compilation, often containing the moft trivial matters. The
paso voyages of Bucquoy 1771, and Thomam 1788, may be
coniuited,
Madagafear: ;
Flacourt has publithed a map: and Rochon has been contented with
one of 1727. Bellin has given a large map. There are feveral French
accounts, Rochon’s being one of the lateft.
© Dapper’s African Iflande were publithed 1668, and his Africa 1670, in Duteh. The
plates are nfed by Ogilby, 1671; and much worn in the French tranflation, 1686. Se-
nuto’s Africa has fome curious maps.
“4 ‘See alfo Zacchein’s Account of the Miffion tn Congo, publithed about 1719. An-
gelo’s V to Congo, 1666, is in Lahat, tome v, ‘
t LeGrand, in his differtations annexed to Lobo’s Abyffinia. (p. 269, Johnfon's tr.)
quant Dus Santos Ktiopia Orientale, Evore, 1609, of which there is a French tranflutions
‘aris, 1684, 1mo, -
African
Boas
Genet
Mauriti
Roch
Land, C
fee Port
THo
phy, ye
it may n
public li
maps.
for their
procure
are ofte
and are
tains mc
even to
bours, v
the Afri
and the
Welt In
is often |
Sw '
i a
Ee xin
Atlantic
Neptune
{mall ma
ins fhores
England
In En
charts, b
promote
perhape |
oals,
mention
African Iflands.
General map. There are detached maps of the Ifles of Bourbon and
Mauritius, &c.
Rochon’s Madagafcar.. Grant’s Mauritius, &c. For Kerguelen’s
Land, Cook’s laft voyage. Glafs’s Canary Iflands, &c. For the Azores,
fee Portugal, as they ftrily belong to Europe.
HYDROGRAPRY.
Tuoveu charts be not confidered as effential in the ftudy of geogra-
phy, yet as.a few of iflands, &c. are admitted into collections of maps,
it may not be improper to offer fome hints on the fubje&. 1n a large or
public library indeed the beft charts fhould appear, as well as the beft
maps. But in general the chief purchafers of charts are merchants,
for their counting houfes; and captains and other marine officers, who
procure the moft recent and authentic adapted to the voyage. Such
are often bound up together, in the form of a narrow oblong folio,
and are ftyled Neptunes, Pilots, &c. Thus the Eaft India Pilot con-.
tains more than a hundred charts for a voyage to the Eaft Indies, or
even to China, inciuding detached charts of the ifles, coafts, and har-
bours, which may be vifited from choice or neceffity. In like manner
the African Pilot prefents charts neceflary for a voyage to the Cape :
and there are Pilots for the Britifh coafts, the Baltic, Mediterranean,
Welt Indies, &c. Each chart may alfo commonly be had apart, aud
is often accompanied with Sailing Dire@tions, as well as the Neptunes:
and Pilots, in a detached oftavo form. The Dutch are carelefs na
vigators ; and the beft charts are the Englifh and French. Yet the
Dutch, in the fixteenth ceatury, feem to have been the firft inventors
of the colle&tions called Neptunes, Flambeaux, Colones de la Mer,
&e. *.
The moft celebrated’ French name is that of M. D’Aprés de Manne-
vilettey whole Neptune Oriental, or Survey of the Indian Ocean, &c. is
highly and defervedly efteemed by all feamen. The charts of Bellin,
‘Engineer of the French Marine, 1737—1767, chiefly relate to the
Atlantic, and their. eftimation is principally confined to France. His
Neptune General fills 2 or 3 thick folio volumes, Bellin alfo publifhed a
{mall maritime atlas, in 5 vols, and a feparate defcription of Guiana and
ins fhores. His Neptune Frangais prefents the coafte of France, Spain,
England, Holland, &c +.
In England the Neptunes and Pilots are always compofed of detached
charts, by various authors and obfervers. Mr. Dalrymple, in his zeal to
promote geography and navigation, has publifhed a prodigious number,
perhape a thoufand, detached charts of ifles, harbours, coafts, ftraits,
fhoals, ‘&¢. chiefly in the Oriental world. Among other works may be
mentioned the American coatts, or Atlantic Neptune, by Des Barres,
* The hydrographic work of Dudley duke of Northumberland, Florence, 1647, 4 vols.
fol. is not only curious but of fome value.
+ There is atfoa Hydrographie Frangaife lately compiled by Dezauche, one of the chicf
ot of charts at Varisy and which contains recent French charts of moft parte of the
wor
1776,
AND BOOKS. 795.
;
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im © ,
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i Ww
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hc
796 CATALOGUE OF MAPS
1776, (too full cf neology ;) the various Pilots publifhed by Mount and!
Davidfon; Murdock’s Atlantic Ocean, publifhed by Faden; Mackenzie's
Charts of the fhores of Scotland and Ireland; Huddart’s Chart of the
Weltern Ifles ; Captain Rofs Donnelly’s of Ferroe, the Orkneys, Shete
‘land, &c. 1797, which may be compared with Lowenorn’s Chart of the
Shetland Ifles, 1787. Of the Englith coafts there are various charts, and
it might be rafh to indicate a preference. For the prefent purpofe it
will be fufficient to commemorate a few others,
Arrowfmith’s Chart of the Pacific, 9 th. and of the Affatic Iflands,
4th. The Indian Ocean, 4 fh. The South Sea Pilot, 28 th.
Mr. Faden has alfo publifhed feveral charts of great reputation, as :
Parts of the Baltic 1802, from Nordenanker and Wybe. Gulf
of Finland, by Ceptain Goff, 1785, 4 th. Gulf of. Florida; Wind.
ward Pafflage ; Malefpina’s Coait of S, America, 1802; Gulf of St,
Lawrence, 4 fh. Coaits of Labrador and Newfoundland, by Lane;
Bay of Breft, &c. 1802: with feveral by La Rochette, drawn from the
belt materials.
_ Some valuable charts have been publifhed by Laurie and Whittle, fuce
ceffors to Mr. Sayer ; and by others, {uch as Steel, Moore, Mount, and
Davidfon, Gilbert, Heather, &c. whofe reputation can only be juttly efti-
mated by feafaring men. Even in a {mall colleGtion the ch
iflands, asthe Azores, the Bermudas, the Canaries, &c, &c, will be found
interefting. yo)
. The coafts of Spain, publithed at Madrid, 1798, by Tofino, may be
confidered as an acceffion to European geography ; and the fame aftrono-
mer has given charts of fome parts of Bar ary,
Thefe hints may fuffice for the geographical ftydent s but it may be
added, under this department, that there are feveral voyages, chiefly pub
lihed in France, profeffedly undertaken for the sane of improving
aftronomy and geography; fuch are the Voyages of Bouguer, 17493
Chabart, 1753 ; Courtanvaux, 1768 ; Caffini, 1770 #3; but particularly
the Voyage per ordre du Roi, by De la Crenne, Borda, and Pingré, Paris,
3778, 2 vols, 4to, abounding with important obfervations, which have
radically improved the geography of feveral countries, The Voyage of
Kerguelen to Iceland, Greenland. Shetland, Norway, &c. Paris, 177%,
or Amft. 1772, 4to, may alfo be mentioned in this clafs, :
It is to be withed that travellers, inftead of overwhelming ug with ridi-
culous voyages to the Levant, would examine the geography of fuch
eountries as are little known, in which cafe they would contribute in»
finitely more to the ftores of modern knowledge.
Thefe few obfervations on hydrography may be confidered as intros
du€tory to a brief lift of the circumnavigations, and more general
voyages, which cannot well be arranged under particular countries,
The Voyage of Magalhaens round the world was the firft, for it would
be ungeverous to deny the title, becaufe that great navigator was flain
in the Philippines, . Pigafetta, who accompanied Magalhaens, drew up
an account of this memorable voyage in Italian, which has recently been
publifhed in a fplendid manner. But for general ufe the French tranflae
tion, Paris, an, 9. will be found interefting.
The Voyages of Sir Francis Drake, London, 1653, 4to.
' @ There is alfo a journey to Germany by the fame author, to examine the geography
ef the Palatinate, Sc, Paris, 1776, 4to.
Dame
arts of feveral
Dar
includit
large 8:
this laf
t
(Churchil
AND BOOKS, "97
Dampier’s Voyages round the World, London, 1729, 4 vols, 8vo.
including Wager’s Voyage. ;
Gemelli Careri’s Voyage round the World, Naples, 1699. 6 vols.
He was a lawyer, and left his country from fome domeftic uneafinefs.
That he really performed this voyage feems now to be admitted; but
the book is trifling, and a voyage round the world is no longer a matter
of wonder, —
Anfon’s Voyage round the world.
Cook’s Voyages, with thofe of Dixon, Portlock, Vancouver, Bou-
gainville, La Peroufe, &c.
To enumerate the colle&tions of voyages would be infinite. The
French Hifoire General des Voyages is more amufing than accurate,
and cannot admit of quotation or reference, as the originals muft be
confulted*, The Nowus Orbis of Grynzus is the oldeft collection ;
which was followed by thofe of Ramufio, Hakluyt and Purchas. Ber
eron’s curious collection appeared 1630, &c. 8vo. 3 reprinted at Ley-
en, 1742, 2 vols, 4to. In 1663 Thevenot published his firft Volume,
which was followed by two others. Ray’s Collection, 1693, 8vo +.
Harris’s Colle€&tion appeared in 1705, 2 vols. fol. being a good general
hiftory of voyages: it was afterwards improved by Dr. Campbell,
2 vols. fol. 1744. 1748. Stevens’s Colleétion of Tranflations, 2 vols.
qto. 1711. Voyages from the Harleian Library, 2 vols. fol. 1745.
Churchill’s Colleétion, 6 vols. fol. 1752. new edit. Aftley’s Col-
leGtion, 4 thick vols. in 4to. rare and valuable, 17453; the editor is
called Green in fome catalogues, certainly a man of great learning and
induftry. De Broffe’s Navigations aux ‘l'erres Auftrales, Paris, 1756,
2 vols. 4ta, tranflated by Callander, Edin. 1766, 3 vols. 8vo. There
are feveral modern Englith colleétions; by Salmon, 2 vols. fol. 1755.
Guthrie, 7 vols, 8vo, 1767, &c. &c. Thofe by Hawkefworth and
Dalrymple ave in fuperior eftimation, To which may be added the re-
cent collections by Dr. Mavor. In German is the Sammlung, &c. a
collection of the beft and neweft travels, Berlin, 1765—1782, 23 vols.
large 8vo. In Spanith the Viagero Univerfal, already mentioned: but
this laft is rather a hiftory of voyages, ;
® In Spanith there is el Viagero Univerfal by Eftalla, Madrid, 1796, &e. which will
occupy about 40 vols. Svo, The defcription of the United States and Mexico appeared in
1799. Unfortunately Spanifh and Portuguefe books can fearcely be procured in London,
+ Dufrefaoy mentions a collection, Lonton, 1674, 4 vols. fol, and one, 1704,
(Churchill’s,) @ vols, fol, with a preface by Locke.
mee oe
IR om
PO a ENP ORES AE em
eae
i er ce area
| ARr
Abs
Aberdeen
;
Abipons
Abitib rive
Aba
ABYSSINIA
Acapulco
Acheen
Aderbijan
Adige river
Adrianople
Adultery pr
e m
Aetna mou
Agimere det
Agime
Agra
Agriculture |
; FAGE
, AR river ~- =. 278
Abawi river - 250
Aberdeen - - 77
univerfity - 75
Abipons - - 740
Abitib river - 651
Aba - - 255
ABYSSINIA ° 748
mountains - 750
Acapulco - ° 598
Acheen ..” ' - 500.
Achil ifland - 114
Acirs, of fnowy hurricanes on
fome mountains in France 180
Adam’s Bridge FS 436
Foot - - ib.
Adayes - ~ 608
Ade - ° 765
Aderbijan 452
Adige river - 812
Adrianople 220
Adultery practifed in Spain under -
the mafk of religion - 199
Aetna mountain - 803
Afgans a = 454
Afnou - 9775
Arnica - - 742
population of ° 743
difcoveries and conjec-
tures refpecting the
central parts 773
colonization of, recom-
mended - 707
Mahowetan States in
the north of - 757
erp - 9765
Southern - 763
Weftern coaft of 961
Agimere defert - 432
Agime - 439
Agra il.
Agriculture of the eaftern’ Part of
Africa 766
of Span‘th N. America 615
of ae United States
of America ° 555
of Arabia * 491
of Auftria - 175
of Canada . 644
of Cathmie . 442
ofChing « 959. 968
Agriculture of Cochin China
f
of Denmark -
of Egypt ps
of England
of France
of Hindoftan
ef Holland
of Japan -
of Ireland -
of Milan
of the Netherlands
of Parma and Placentia
of Perfia -
of Portugal e
of Proffia. pS
of Ruffia °
of the Ruffian empire
in Afia -
of Saxony
of Scotland
of Siam °
of Sicily -
of Spain ~
of Sumatra -
of Sweden -
of Swifferland
of Tatary
of Turkey in Europe
of Turkey in Afia
of Wurtemburg
Ahahuete, or Cyprefs of Puebla
Ahwaz river -
Aiagha mountain -
Ajan - “
Aire river - -
Ak Tau mountain -
Alata, cataract -
Alabafter of England -
Alak Olla mountain -
Aland iflands -
Alb, or Alps Suabian S
Albano Lake -
Albany fort -
river *
Albion, New -
Albuquerque -
Alchymy itil) portued hy the Are
bians
Alderney ifle
Ale, the various farts brewed in sia 4
Be
of Hanover .
oe
e
“a
eppy
fg EEE RMR RR SIN AS ES EI ORE TERE A I A ESE A RIM
pec i ot a A SL AO RED ADE A Tafa > 88
800 INDEX
PAGE PAGE
Aleppo 323. Amenica, Souri, Dutch fettle-
Aleffandria 310 ments 798 Arasi
Aleutian itles 655 Frenchfettles
Alexandria 754 thetts 797 _Aracal
Algier * 758 Portuguefe Aral |;
Athambra palace - 196 fettlements 735 Aranjy
Alicuda iffand 303 Spanithdomis ‘ Ararat
Alideck mountains 431 tions of 674 - Aras r
Allahabad 439 ©Anenica, Usited Starts 543 Arauca
Allegany mountains 556 their conteft with Arbutt
Aller river 286 Erpland - $45 la
Almiranti ifland 769 fpeculation on the fus Archi
Alps of Italy - 802 ture condition of 64y di
Suabian e 265 Amhara mountain . 599 — Arehde
>of Swifferland 279 Amiens . ° 196 E
Alfter river - 294 Amfterdam ° ° - 20 Arches
Altaian chain of mountain 842.483 Amu tiver « 429 Archite
Altamaha river < 556 Amur river “ « 368 Arcot
Altan Nor, or Golden Lake 042 ~=©Anacandri - 751 Ar&tic
Alwar mountain - 672 Anadir river - 349 Ardenn
Altona - - 242 Anamba ifland « 497 Arequi|
Alum in the Tyrolefe Alps 177. Anapolis river . 646 Arefcut
native in the Ifle of Wight 64 Anchovy fith of the Mediterranean 7 Argjun.
Alvarado - 619 Ancona a - 807 Argus p
Amazons river “ 669 Andaman iflands . 404 Aria, or
Ambazel Rock - 750 Andegan « a 460 Arifpe
Amber of the Birman empire ~’ 398 Andes mountains < 671. 699 Arkenfa
of New Spain * 636 Andrenovian ifles “ 948, 655 Armagh
of Pruffia - 190 Andrew's, St., univerfity e Army <
fields 5000. to the revenue Andro ifland - p ‘
annually in Proffia 193 Angara rivet - (
of Spain - 211) Angaziza ifland -
of Spurnhead 52 Angles, origin of that tetm ‘
Ambotifmenes mountains 767 Fatt - (
Amboyne ifland 504, 505, 506. and Saxons (i
cruelty of the Dutch to the Anglefea iffes ore
Englifh there in 1622 506 Angola ° ;
Amedabad -
a
q
443 Angora -
AMERICA
- 530 Angra -
firft difcevery of by Angrias, famous pirates
the Norwegians 530 ANHALT - 0
further difcoveriesof 530,531.534. Ann, St., town of 0
population of - 534 Annabon ifland fy)
divifion into North and Annan river
South - 535 Anoupec mountains
Amrnica, Norti ° 585 ANSPACH “
chief imports Antelopes of Hindoften
from 553° Anthony, St., ifland
central parts 651 falls of
Britith poffef- Anticofti ifland
fions — 641 Antigua -
pative tribes Antimony mines of Sicily
and uncon Antioquia -
quered Antiparos ifle :
countriesof 648 grotte ibe Arno riv
Spanifh domi- Antonio, St., river Aroyo rivd
nions of 561 Antwetp “ Arrabeda
Antiquities of 568 Anzoan ifland Aracan ri
Hiftorical epochs 566 Aornos fort - Aragon c
Pu pulation of 969 Apalachian mountains Arran ifla
Amearca, Sourn - 667 Apaneca mountains Arvin iflan
native tribes Apennines - Arroo {fla
and uncone - Apurimac river Arrowaks ¢
“ered __Araba river > Arthur's o
countries of Arabia 2. Feiehes ; fd
So
Seoooces
Art, pr efe
ww
baal
woqanwstonunnreeoonw”™
PAGE
Arasia, hiftorical epochs _ 7 486
fea of - 485
Aracan - ane ee 401
“Aral lake - . 318. 482
Aranjuez palace - 204
Ararat mountain - 467
- Aras river - - 452
Araucans “ - 722
Arbutus near the lake of Kil-
larney - - 113
Archhithops’ Privileges and jurif-
diétion in FE nelanc l - 17
Archdeacons, authori ity of, in
England . - - 18
Arches, ¢ court of - al.
Archite&ure of England - 30, 33
Aycot - - 446
Artic ocean - - 8
Ardennes foreft - 131, 140
Arequipa - - 698
Arefcutan mountain “ 245
Argjun, or Argun mountain 483°
Argus pheafant of Sumaua - 499
Avia, or Durra Palus - 466
Arifpe - punks 606
Arkenfa river - - 617
Armagh . 108
ya of Spanith South America 60
of Spanith North America © 576
of the United States of
America =, 547
of Auftria - 169
of the Birman Empire 894
of the Britith poffeffions
of Gangetic Hindoftan 437
of China Proper . 354
of Denmark - 238
of England - 27
of France - 122
of Germany ° 285
of Holland - 299
of Japan - 883
of Porfia - 458
of Portugal - 264
of Pruftia ° 186
of Ruflia 2 e 147
of Siam - * 407
of Spain “ 199
of Sweden - 253
of Swifferland Ps 274
of Tatary - - _ 866
of Independent ‘latary 474
of Turkey in Europe 217
Arno river * . 801. 308
Aroyo river - - 598
Arrabeda mountains - 267
Arracan river os - . 807
Arragon canal - ° 204
Arran ifland . ° 91
Arvin iflands . - 114
Arroo (and 2 - 513
Arrowaks of Surinara - 738
Arthur's oven in Scotland - 69
feat, Edinburgh - 96.
Arts, prefent fate of, in England =. _ 39
INDEX.
4
PAGE
Arts of Hindoflan - 425
Afam - ° 423
Atangaro - - 676
Afcenfion ifland 770
or Trinidada ifland 742
Afehraff - - 462
Athref palace - 463
Asta - ° 814
divided from America by ;
Beering’s {trait ~ - 815
Linnean table of the nae
tions and lancuages of als
the population of - 829
plain of a a 368
iflands of ° - 495
Afiatic fociety founded by Sir W. Jones 428
Afka river - - 888
Afphalt of New Spain -. 636
Afies of Aral abia - 493
of Spain - - Qik
Affumption ei elt - 684°
Aftracan : - 150. 388
harbour - 839
Athabafea river wo: of 542
Athapufcow lake - | 652
Athens, remains of ancient 215
Athos mount - - * 992
Atini, the ancient-Athens -) 220
Atlantic ocean - - 3
Atlas mountains - 746
Attock - - 442
Attore - - 445
Ava, city of . 896
Aval ifland - - 40f
Aucas - -< 739
Audiences, Spanifh, in America 565
Avghans, or Afvans ees 419
Avon river 54
Aurora Borealis of 7 udfen’s Bay 651
of Shetland ° G8
of Sweden 256
Aurungabad - 444
AUSTRALASIA ‘e 508
AUSTRIA - ° 162
hiftorical epochs : 165
Auvergne bafaltic mountains 130
Auzagurel - - 766
Axu or Akfu eel, - 473
Auxum > - 750
Ayr - - 73%
Azof oe - 358
fea of - - aj
Azores iflands - - 268
B
Babylon - - 454
ruins of - 324
BaGtriana, or Balk - 453
Badajoz - © 208
Badakthan - - 480
Baden, margrave of -. 998
Battdoo - « 974
surf 8 bay - 651
dad - 324
Bale, or are iflands . 664
3 I Bahs
H
iH
7
4
t
d]
4
iu
pane mae a re
#02 ! INDEX.
PAGE
Bebr el Abiad, or real Nile 750
el Azrek - ib,
Bahrein built of rock falt - 489
Bahrin ifland - - 494
Baikal fea e ° 841
Bain Gonga river ° 430
Bakian ifland, or Batchian 506
Baktegan falt lake 466
Baku haven - - 899
Balabac a - 502
Balamgangan - ab.
Ralb eg sit . - 392
Balcath lake - 482
Bald mountain - ° 556
Baldo mount - $12
Balk - 480
Balkath, or Tongis nie - 369
Balli ifland - 497
Bm of Mecca 493
tic fea - - 3.7
no tides in - 7
Baltimore . 551
Banana tree of Aby finia - 751
Banca ifland - - 500
nda iflands - 505, 506, 507
nder Abaffi - 463
Banguly - - 502
Banjaluka 220
Bank of Phitadelphia, or of the
United States ° 553
Bankok - - 409
oa river 110
nyan tree of the Birman empire 399
of Hindofian - 434
Baptifms in Scotland - 73
Paptifts of England - 21,22
a ifland - - 92
arabin stepp ° 344
racus river - ° 450
Baraderas river - - 563
Barpanoes - - 663
Barbela river - 777
Barcelona - - 202
aracas - 717
and trthmers, of Jreland 105
Bardfey i ° - 65
“ty h - - 297
° 306
Barilla of Spain - 205. 209
Bark, Peruvian, ¢ or Jefuits == 686
arnaja river - - 619
arquifements - 716
arren ifle : ° 404
‘row river - - 110
Barrows - 15
rtholomew St., ifland © 663
fel town and uniyerfity : 275
afhees iflanda - ° 496
ra, cr Baffora : 324
fs ftraight - ° 518
gacola - ° 449
talha mopattery ° , 263
tavia ° ° 500
38
Bath, warm, remedy for alldifeates
in Ruifia
Batufaber - -
Bavarta, and Palatinate -
Bears, method of aking -
ver -
of Lalihaion: -
of Norway - -
of Ruffia in Afia -
Beering’s Ifle - -
straights -
Belfatt A C7
Belleze river
Belgz, a name given. to the Seythians,
or Goths, who fettled in Gaul
» chief anceftors of the Englith
igi colonies of Englith hiftory 14, 15
9 antiquities of 15, 16
Belgrade - - 220
Bevxisze ifland - 135
Jur - - 481
mounta‘n oS - 482
Belur Tag mountain - 869
Ben Nevis, the highett mountain
in Great rigs - 86
nares - 439
univerfity - 426
Benbecula ifland ° 93
Bencoolen ° - 498
Bender ° 220
Bender Maffin lutdout - 501
Bengal bay - ° 318
Benin - . 762
river e o tb.
Berhiz. river - - 738
Berelos lake - - 755
Bergen - ° 242
Bergftrafs mountain - 288
Berlin - 188
Bermupas, or Summer Iflands 647
Bern - 276
Bernicia, kingdom of - 1k
Berfhek mountain - 468
Berwick - - 77
Beverio lake - 801
Biajos of Borneo 502
Bible, a noble {pecimen of dignified
Englith profe 32
Bienne lake - - 279
Billiton ifland 497
Bintam 403
Birds, the manner viet fithing with,
on the lakes of China - 861
Birds’ nefts edible, on the Adaman
and Nicobar iflands - 404
in Borneo. = 502
in Cochin China 413
Birds of Paradife - 505
Birman empire, ee ng Ava
and Pegu 390
’ danger from,
to Bengal - 395
Birmirigham > 39
Bifcay, New - - 563
Bifeay bay =~
Soe Ooeeouwe
CEN SH AVS HNOUD,
—- hn
ononw
61
Bifhopricks, valuation in the king's
books - “
Bifon of the United States of
America
of New Mexico
Biffagos ifland
Bittam
Bitumen pits near + Brighthelmitone
Black foreft
mountains
Black lead of America
Black river of Jamaica
Black Sea
Black vomit of Spanith North
America, allied to the Loi
low fever
Black water river
Blackenburg cavern
Blafkets ifanis
Blinduefs prevalent in Esypt
Blue mountain
Boa ferpent ip Ternat, 30 fet long
Boden fea -
Bofin ifland
Bogdo mountain
great mountain
Tolu, or Alim mountain
falt lake
ta -
cataract
Bogs of Ireland
Bonemia -
Bokhara
Bolca
Bologna -
Bolfena lake
Bombay -
Bommel ifland
n cape -
Bonavitta, Newfoundland
Bones in the rock of Gibraltar
Boodh, images ne
Bootan .
Borneo ifland
Bornholm ifland
Boromean ifles
Borough Englith, explained
Bofphorus Cimmerian, now the
ht of Caffa
Bofton, North America
Botany of Abytfinia
of the north of Africa
of the weftern sone of
Africa
of Spanith N. Ametica
of Spanith S. America
of the United States of
America
of Arabia
of the Afiatic ifles, Auftre-
lafia aud is lnaut
of Auftria
of the Birman empire
Brazil
ef Canada and the N, of
Amesica
INDEX.
PAG
Botany of the Cape of Good Hope
20 of China Proper -
of Denmark -
559 of Egypt . *
630 of England -
9770 of France t Aleka
462 of Germany -
41 of Hindoftan -
ass of Holland
ab, of Japan « &
560 of the W. Indies .
662 of Ireland -
7 of Tialy - °
of Madagafcar :
of the Netherlands
65 of Perfia F
556 of Pruffia - -
293 of Raffia - -
114 of the Ruffian empire in
754 Afia -
662 of Scotland °
506 of Spain - -
287 of Surinam -
114 _ of Sweden -
820 of Swifferland -
483 of ‘Tatary :
342 of Turkey - o
il. of Turkey in Afia -
705 Botany Bay, felons fent to, in
743 1786,
removed to Port
111 Jackfon and Sidney Cove
167 pene gulph
812 Fact ifland .
807 Bourdeaux
801 Bouro ifland
443 Boutan ifland
248 Bownefs, or Borroftownefs -
758 Bradfield - e
64 7 Braya - .
212 Brahmans charafeiized -
448 ancient and modern
371 abolition of, recom¢
501 mended é
248 Brandenburg - °
301 Brafs of Spain
95 Braflos river
‘Brava
9 Brazil
§50 Bread fruit tree in Gilolo ifland
Brechin
657 Bremen
fuccefsfully plant-
ed in Jainaica
of Maouna ifland
planted in the
ifland of Maue
ritius -
of Nic&bar -
of Otaheite -
of the Pelew iflands
of the Sandwich
iflands °
of Tinian -
of the Tropical
iflands -
oF 4
acon
z3
operon = ie POE Ek a a eS EF ge et ge a eee =
il torent es eI > is as Pee De ARR lng Ay be P saan Serene Spent , — metemeeite
EE eee Mati atte sete aie Ads Nhe SA ae eC = so - ae se eres “3 ek s = Ae
ee.
Ro4
Brenner mountains
Brenta river
Breicia
Breflaw -
Brett ae .
Briare canal - fe
Bribery, an univerfal vice in China
Bridge, remarkable, in the United
States of America -
Bridges in Enghind -
Bridgewater, duke, the founder of
intand navigation in England
Brientz lake - -
Briftol - -
Hot Wells. =
Channel -
Britain, origin of the name
table of the annua! income
value of the capital of,
1,200,000,000
national debt -
political importance
progrefs of the power of,"
in Bindofian -
poveilions of, ia Gangetic
Hinds dan °
pofefions in Southern
Hindoitlan -
New
Brua river
Bruges -
Brunn -
Brunswick -
New
Brunfwick Houle, Hudfon’s Bay
Brufiels -
Bacharett -
Bucharia, Great
Little
Buda, or Offen
univ erfity
Buddrinaut temple
Budfilo fed
Buenayre ifland
Buenos Ayres
cit
Buffalo of Italy
Bualas ifland
Bull feails of Spain
Bundamir river
Bundeh mountain
Burramypooter river
"Bafieer -
Buflora - -
Butcher, the moll efleemed profef-
fion in Madagaicar -
Bute iflund
{ Cc
Cables made of the fibrous cover-
ing of the eqeoa nut -
Cabul - *,
Cadaon river °
Cadia
Caermarthen
Cacrnarvon.
, o
*
853
445
514
249
138
173
294
645
650
137
220
A7&
473
173
172
440
381
663
674
680
JU5
503
200
466
4032
428
461
463
768
91
433
456, 463
267
202
44
45
(
INDE X.
PAGE
Caffa . -
Cairngorm mountain
Cairo
Caithnefs, paps of
Calabar
Calabefa
Calberga
Calbueco
Calentia
Calder river
Caliy ifle - -
Caledonia applied to Scotland by
Tacitus -
New - -
Calenburg - -
Calicut - -
California -
Calvin, his cruelty :
Caubay - .
Cambeltown - -
Cambodia
Canibridge, lift of colleges, sii we
founders
Camel of Arabia -
of the Kirgus Tatars
of Morucco -
of Perfia -
of T urkey -
ens chy
Camphor, how produced
Canada °
fea of -
Canary iflands
Canaiayvia mountains
Candahar -
Canes and Canches
Cangiburam, Eremin felvol
Canigou mountain =
Canna ifland -
Cannibalifin of Surinam
of New Zealand
Cano river - -
Canterbury
province of
jee of -
Canton - -
Canute, coins of, ftruck at Dublin
Cavutchoue, or elaflie gum of
French Guiana -
Cape Vreton ifland °
Fait -
ot Good Hope
de Verd iflauds
Capri ‘
Cara -
Carabaya -
Caracas
NS illa de
Carang AS
Card's “fed by the Mongul
Cariaco
Carilbee iflands
Caribs, or Cyeihpane
Carimon
Carinthia, lake in
Carlile
563.567. 6:
.
PAGE
Earifkrona - - 255
Carmelites, defert of fs 598
Carnatic, or Carnada - 446_
Carniola, lake in - 176
Caroline iflands - 521
€ aroni river - 675
Carora - - 716
Carpathian chain’ ‘. 179...
Carpentanos mountains mt. 208
Carron, iron mines of Scotland 90
Carrows of Iveland *. 104
Cartage - 604
Carthage, ruins Sof - 758
Carthagena - - 709
Caruna nut, the flow poifon of the
Acawaw Thaliaus - 739
Carwar 445
C ary{brox dk cattle j in the Ifle of Wight 64
Cota Grande, ruins of, 571
Catel - - 108
Cafhgar - 567
€ athmir - - 457
Calpian fea - 318
Catiel - - 298
Cafliterides, or illands of tin, fuppofed
to have been an ancient name of
Britain and Ireland - 11
Caffowary of Amboyna _ - 507
of New Holland “ 512
Caftel Roffo ifland - 330
Cattile, canal of / - 205
Cafts of Hindoftan - 422
Catacombs at Kiow - 148
Catanea - - 306
Cataracts in Cumberland - 64
Caterpillars, eaten in New Holland 510
Cathay - - 850
Catholics, their proportion to proteftants
in Ireland - 102
Cattle of Abyflinia - °751
of Arabia - - 493
of Aultria - 179
, of Deccan, from 10 to 14 feet
high - 495
of England - - GO
of France - 133
of Hindofian - - 434
ot Holland - 2469
clothed with care
even in fummer il,
of Taly - - 904
ot Morocco - 758
of Perfia - 469
of Portugal - 267
of Ruffia - - 157
in Afia - 346
of. Scotland - 89
of the Kirgus Tatars 476
of ‘Tibet - - 377
of Tunis - 758
of ‘Turkey " 223
which grunt like fine 370
Caucafus mountain - 820. 407
Caveii river — 431
Caverns ve muarkable. in England 63
Caxamarca , - ~ 692. 698
Cayenne a? - 737
Caym mane ge - 735
9.) Aates 4)
INDEX.
Cayucas * - .
Cedar lake -
Cefalonia ifland a)
Celano luke - -
Celcbez iffands -
Celts of Denmark -
of Eneland -
of France -
of Holland -
of the ‘setherlands -
of Spain - -
of Swilferland -
Cenis *
Ceram ifland - -
Cevennes mountains -
Cevton iland -
Chacao harbour -
Chaleo lake - -
Chalice, canal of -
Chaliteutel, hills -
Chainois animal. - -
Champlain lake
Chancery Court of Hichet -
Chany Ti or ‘Ticn, the deity of China
Proper - *
Changai moun.tains’ -
Chapala lake - 619.
Chapultepec aqvenuet -
Charleftown -
Charibdis - -
Chaftity of the Sumatrans
Chaucer the firft rude writer of the
Englith language ~ -
Chayanta - -
Chelfea hofpital for foldicrs
Cheiwell river -
Chefs, played at Cairo -
a favourite game of the Mon
guls - -
Chefler
Cheflerfield inlet, Hudfon’s bay
Cheviot mountains
Chialifh, or Yulduz -
( hiapa - -
Chichas - -
Chichefter ° nm
Chiem See - -
Chihuahua - -
Chili - -
Chilka lake - .
Chiloe ifland -
Chimborazo mountain are
China, the population of y+
Cuinxa, empire of -
Proper -
dificulties in attempt.
ing a conquelt
Chiquitos, chain of -
Choafpes river °
Chonos gulf ° -
Chorography definition .
Chofittan - -
Chriftiana ~
Chriftiuns, 20,000 mamuered in
1590, 37,000 in 1698, at
Japan “4 -
Chriftiantburg “
Chrittophe r ut. ’ ifland ; ae] 4
'
805
PAGE
565
556
224
301
503
255
121
115
225
136
198
272
608
504
130
447
741
62
753
Advl
282
556
26
3523
348
621
598
551
306
500
32
676
46
53
753
896
42
651
55
473
564
676
4l
Q87
606
22
431
74
671
2
349
850
955
673
4f3
741
7
453
242
ml
208
668
See : s
= ———SSSSeee SEE a RE
ae z . ? r: . = *
iia me
iis
HH
hd
1
ef
| ye
I),
3 Se = =
> toes
a aS
ee
806 INDE X
‘ Chucuiro -
Chulclau river -
Church ‘of England, creed of
title of fupreme
head granted by
the pepe to
Henry VIII.
Churchill fort, Hudfon’s bay
river -
Cibao, mountains of
Cicitbei of Spain * -
Cinaloa - -
Cinnamon peculiar to Ceylon
tree, introduced into the
ifland of Maritius
Cintra mountain :
Circles of judgment in Denmark
and Norway -
in Sweden
Cirknitz lake .
Citlaltepel mountain -
Ciudad Real - -
Civet cat of Malaya -
of Ruffia in Afia °
Civil lift of England, its ufe -
war, in the time of Charles I.
Clare ifland °
Clear iflandandcape -
Clergy of Englend, their privileges
number of, in Folland
in Spain -
in Sweden
Cloves known to the Romans
growth of, confined by the
Dutch to Amboyna
introduced into the Weft
Indies in 1798 -
Clyde river - «
Coal mines of Auftria -
of Cape Breton
of China .
of England -
of France ~
of Hanover -
of Heffia .
of New Holland
of Japan -
of —
of Portu °
of etna
of Scotland
of Sweden
of Swifferland
of Virginia
of Wurtemburg
Cobalt mines of Norway
Cohi, or Shamo defert
Cochabainba -
Cocnin .
Cocnin Cina
Coffee of Arabia
Cohahuile
Col ifland ~
ut BN a -
‘ologne eleétorate
Colombo id -
Colon, ifle of
Colonies of England
of France
of Holland
of Ruffia
Colonfa ifland
Colorado Rio
de los Martyres
Columba S. who converted the
Northern Caledonians
Columbia college
Columbus, his difcoveries
in America
difcoveries atttempted by
him in Afia
Comarca defert
Commerce & manufaétures of Abyflinia 750.
of Spanifh
North
America 610
of the Uni-
ted States
of America 552
of Arabia 490
of Auftria 174
of the Bir-
man empire 398
of Great Bu-
charia * 481
of Calcutta 438
of Canada 648
of Canton 9357
of Ceylon 449
of China
Vroper = 356
of Damafeus 328
of on 243
of t 601
of king and 49
value
of emports & imports 50
of France = 127
of Hanover 292
of Heffia 294
of Hindoftan 426
of Holland 232
ef Japon 366
of Ireland 108
of Milan 912
of he Ne-
therlands 198
of Paraguay 664
orPerfe. j 463
698
' 266
190
150
999
290
6)
409
205
INDE X.
PAGE
Commerce & manufactures of Spanith
; N. Amertica 609
of Sumatra 499
of Sweden 236
of Switzer-
land 276
of Tata 481
of the Kir-
gus Tatars 476
of Tibet. 375
of Turkey 222
of Turkey in
Afia
of Vienna
of Wurtem-
-burg
between the Manillas and
Acapulco -
Como lake . .
Comoro iflands
Condor of Tengu .
Congo
Conigfburgh caftle, Yorkhhire, of
Saxon Danith antiquity °
Conneticut river -
Conftance lake -
Conftantineple .
Continents, the formation of
Convocations in England
Cookery, Englith -
Copenhagen -
uuiverfity -
Copper ifland °
Copper mines of Africa :
on the eaflern fide of
Africa -
of Spanith North America
of Spanifh South America
of Aofta
of Auftria -
of Bavaria -
of in Cape of Good
of England
of France
of Gumifcana
of Hanover
of Heffia
of Hindoftan
of Japan
of Ireland
of Luzon ifland
of Maffachufets
of the Milanefe
Copper mines of Sweden
of Swifferland
of Tibet .
of Turkey in Afia
of the Uralian mountains 3:
of Wurtem)urg
Copts, original inhabitants of
Egypt -
Coral, of the Mediterranean, the
work of a mariue infeét
Corafan
Cordova, Spanith N. America
S. America
mountains of “ e
Corentin river -
Corfou, ifland °
Cork, the grand mart for-Irith Gail
fions
Coro -
Coroner in England, his ofce
Corriarok mountain
Corrib lake
Corrientes
Corfica ifland
Corunna
Corvo ifland -
Cos ifland
Cofinogany, definition of
Cofmography, ees of
Cofta rica
Cotopacfi, volcano mountain
Cotton of Arabia
wood of the Arkenfa
of Hindoftan “a
three kinds of in Sumatra
manufe&tures of Auftria
at Glafgaw
Coventry °
Coucou, or Couchan
Counties, or thires, the original Idivie
fion of England into “
Cottry thelle ufed as fmall coin ot
Calcutta °
Cracow - -
univerfity
Crete, or Candia ifland .
ec ~
Crocodile of Abyffinia °
of Java
Croix St., ifland
Cumberland mountains “
Cllsaing, eternal a tne by the Se
wrazao land «
ich Hoff lake
eFe
SS SSS =
ae Se
a ae a
ee
ee ee
88° INDE xX,
Brat PAGE
Cuftoms and manners of Abyffinia 597. Darien
. of Spanith N. Dartmouth college
Anierica 580 Dates, land of
§. America 680 Davis, gulf, or fea of
of the United Dauphin fort *
States of Dead fea . -
America 548 Debretzin univerfity
of Arabia 487 Deer, tl'e various k'nds of, in the
of the Birman United States of America
empire 395 Delagoa bay” é
of Brazil 935 Delawarriver . rs
of Canada 642 Delft *
of Ceylon 448 Delhi © .
of Cochin-China 413 © Demerara-and river
of China Proper 355 Dembea -
of Denmark 289 lake of
of Egypt 753 Denmark -"
of England» "30 extent of _
of France 123 hiftorical epochs of
of Hindoftan = 424 ~~ Derbent : 56
of Holland 229 haven >
of New Holland 509 Derwent river .
ot Hungary 170 ~©Defert, preat faline, of Perfia
of Japan. 384 Deferts of Africa -
of Iveland 104 Louifiana --
of the Kirguffes 475 Defolation, ifland of Fe
of Malay 403 Delpoto-Dag mountain, Rhodope
of Perfia 459 of the ancients -
of Peru 694 Detroit fort -
of Portugal 264 Deue aledonian, or Sarmatian fea
of Praffia 187 Diamond of the Birman eimpire
of Ruffia . 148 ot Borneo °
of Afiatic Ruffia 335 ot Spavith N. America
of Scotland 73 mines of Brazil i Dro
of Siam 407 of Colore 1
of Spain 199 of Hindoftan
of Sumatra 498 of Pennar
of Sweden 253 of Vifiapour
of Swifferland 274 mountains of Goleonda
of Tatary 366 and Viflapour
of Independent Dibbi or Dark Lake
- Tatary 474 Dickenfon college
of the Turks 218 Diemen's,.Van, Land
of TurkeyinAfia 923 Diet of the Arabs
of the Ufbeks 479 the Englith
Cuyo -* ; ° 676 the Japanete
Cuzco wes 697 the Perfians ,
Cyclades iflands 224 the Siamefe = Dal
Cyprus, ifland . Scotland i Dun
the Turks Duy
Dindigul : . 5 Dur
Dingwall Du
' Difcoverigs, Board of Nomenc! ‘las Dur
ca » ° ture recommended to affix Dur
aghiften names tor’ - Du
Dago ifland ' Difinal Swamp .
Deh! river 2 Delfenters in England - . Dur
Damatfcus ‘ Dogs ot Evgland - j Dur
‘Dameras . + ; ~ of New Holland - Dur
Dainiata - <> of Ireland
Dances of the Rufians , _ eaten in the Sandwich iflande
es, antiquities of . Doggerbank
tt) ome! river )
ube .° omingo, St. -
triaa mountains } esports from - i ‘Dur
.* ee a anailacre of <she whites in Dwi
Vows Domingo,
¢
Domingo, flates of the blacks in .
Dominica, iflend of -
Don, or Tanais, rife and courte of
Dongola - -
Doohant Takes -
Dorado, El, origin of the fable that its
fliects are paved with gold, , =
mountain - -
Dorchelter, fainous for ale -
Dornock - -
Dort : -
Dover cliffs - : *
Dovrafial mountains -
Douro river - -
Doulatahad - -
Downing college, Cambridge
Drah - -.
Drammce river - -
Drau, or Drave river -
Drefden - -
Drefs of the Arahs -
of Cochin-China -
of the Japanefe -
of the Kirgus Tatars -
of the Polanders -
of the Ruffians °
wled in Scotland -
of Siam - -
of the Spaniards -
of the New Zeslanders
Drin river - -
Drogheda - -
Dromedaries of the Kirgus ‘Tatars
Drontheiin - é
Druids, remains of the -
a recent inftitution in the
time of Coefar -
fuppofed to originate from
Phoenician factories
Stonehenge, not a Druidical
monument e
remains of in France
temples in Scotland
Dublin, the Lhlana of Prolemy
coms of Canute ftruck at
fuciety “
univerfity of -
Dake, derivation of -
Dumbarton - »
Dumfries - é
Dunfervaline ° °
Dun river - e
Duna river - .
Dundalk * ‘.
Dundee - °
manufatures of °
Dungarvon - »
Dunkeld - «
Durango © we «
Town .
Durham, its fituationand manula4 ures
231
IND EX.
PAGE
661
663
154
757
652
738
673
40
79
52
» 245
207
444
35
761
244
176
290
488
413
384
476
188
148
73
408
200
517
222
108
476
242
15
a county palatine - 19,
judges fit there by permifion — ,
of the bithop | - ib,
‘Durfey ifland . . di4
—_ tiver . 134
Dyle - se 139
Dynafies of China, coins of 351
‘Dzui river - - 482
E
Eaheianomawe ifland - 516
Earl, derivation of - 24
Farn!ough ~ 9 ol ee 110
Farihquake near Quito - 707
Earthquakes ef Spanifh N. America 613
in the Azores iflands 269
tremendous in Borneo 501
common in Japan 887
in Italy - 300
Eaftmain factory - 650
Eafter ifland - - 527
Eafterling, people from the fhores of
the Baltic - 7
Ebernfee lake : ° 176
Eboes, flaves fo called - 761
Ebvo river - - 207
Ecclefiaitical courts in England 19
court of Peculiars 20
Eddiftone and light-houfe - 65
Edinburgh - - 76
Old Town - il.
New Town - ue.
univerfity - "5
New 704
Education in Spanith Nor dh America 587
of Arabia - 488
in Aufirvia - 171
in the Birman empire 896
in China Proper 256
of Denmark - Q41
‘ of England - ua
of France - 124 -
in Hin foftan - 426
in Holland- - Qua
in Japan - 865
much negleted in Ireland 106
of the Netherlands 197
of Perfia - 460
of Portugal - 26¢
in Proita - 188
little known in Rutfia 149
of Siam - 409
in Scotland ~ 95,
diffulton of, in Scotland ib,
in Sweden - 265
of Swiflerland - 275
in Purkey - 210
of Wurtemburg . 207
Egmont port - / - 742
Eayrt - . 752
not a Turkifh province a22
Eig ifland - . 02
Einheck - . 299
Ekanfaniko marth « $57
Elta, ileof ae - 809
Blhe river a 276, 191.292
Eltien, or Even river . aud
Klhing te a 1y0.
blephaut of Abyliinia . 1 73%
Blephane
$10
PAGE
Elephant of Ceylon -
of Hindoftan -
of Malaya -
of Pegu -
white, treated with a kind
of adoration in Siam
of Sumatra -
of Zanguebar -
Flephants’ bones tound in Mexico
Elephanta ifland -
Elgin - .
Elias St. mountain -
Elk of Norway -
Elko lake - :
Ellichpour :
Elfter river -
Elwend, mountains of
Emerald mines of Muzo
Emerald mountain
Enara lake : -
Encianp - -
; and Wales, boundaries of
original population of
firft divided into thires by
Alfred .
its antiquities -
conftitution of, oar boat
and glory -
ronwatthy of, limited
hiftorical epochs of
feats of the nobility, &e.
furvey of the counties of,
advifed -
Englith, theircharagter - ==
Egraving, progrefs of in England
how executed by the
Hindoos :
Enfili haven - -
Ephthalites, or Nepthalitcs a
Erfurt we
Brivan -
Erlau univerfity -
Ermen ftreet, a Roman road in
England -
Ertegeberg mountains .
or metallic mountains
Erzeron e .
~Efcurial - .
Efker river ° :
Efquivo river :
Evifa ifland - .
Euphrates river : 825. 465.491
Muaore . : 4
extent and limits of - ib.
origin of the name “
462.
INDE x.
Exports and imports of Franc
ydar :
Faconie mountains -
Feemund lake
Fahlun : -
Fairhead cape, in {reland
Falkland, or Malouin iflands
Falfe bay - -
Famagufta - -
Fan, pa!m-leaf, capable of covering
ten or twelve men ~.
Fanoe ifland - -
Faroe ifles - -
Fars, Perfis, or Perfia Proper
Fartthel mountain -
Fatfifo ifland -
Fayal harbour
ifland
Feejee ifles
Felicuda cavern
ifland -
Felix St., ifland -
Ferdinando Norauha, ifland of
Fergana - «
erokabad - -
Ferriter iflands -
ne yellow, of Philadelphia
ez A
Fezzan, an Oafis in the North of the
Great Defert of Africa 747.761.
Fichtelberg mountain -
Filibe, or Filipopoli -
Fili ® San sh -'
Finlend, gulf of -
Fins, fome account of -
Fins, the original inhabitants of
Sweden - -
Fire temple - -
Fire, worthippers of -
in Arabia
Fire-flies of Sian -
Fith of Auftria -
few in the Baltic -
of the Cafpian fea -
of England and its cuafts
of Scotland . °
Fithery of Newfoundland :
Fithing with birds on the lakes of
ina - 2
Fifkeroe ifle, or peninfula
Flamborough head -
Flavia Cefarientis: -
Flax of New Zealand -
Fleth cut from the living ox, and
eaten in Abyffinia °
~ Fly of Ab {finia, froin whofe fing the
y how Ries ng
with precipitation
Florez ifland - °
Floridas, the e
Fo, {eR of China
Pontalnbleau forett
INDE X,
GE
ae Fora ifland Fu monntain ° ° 338
ie Porefts of Auftria - 178 Fafigawa river - wv.
of China Proper : 861
of England 57 : 2 @
charter granted by Eavatl Il. ib.
as of France 131 Gabreta Sylva foreft 178
ae of Italy 804 Gael, or fouthern Celts, called any
es of the Netherlands - 140 dels by the Welth 11,
ys of Perfia - 468 Gaelic inhabitants of Roget retired
+h of Ruffia - 156 to Ireland ib,
ta of Scotland _ 68 diale&t uf the Celtic language
31 Foreft fubmarine remains on the wafte exifting in the Highlands of
. of Lincolnfhire - 64 Scotland and in Ireland wt,
59 ’ Forfar - 78 Gagra, or Sarjoo river - 429
a8 Formofa, or Taiwan ifland - 863 Gallegos river - 671 F
ib Forth River 82 Gale, or Galle - 449 ij y
5) Forts, old, in the United States of oe tala - - 173 |)
” America - 561 «ialway - - 107 {||
96 Foffe-way, a Roman road - 16 Gambia river 773 i
69 Foulshs, race of, near the river Gaming, prevalent in the United States ii @
ib Gambia and Guinea - 761 of America 548 (hh) it
98 Foxes, black - 347 Ganderfheim, convent of - 294 i @
06 Fox ifles : - 655 Ganges river - 428 if ‘
03 France . - 115 Gancetic Hinpostan, on THE aE
41 the jealous rival of England 29 SECHNANS ON THE GAN- i,
42 autient and modern divifions 437 ii ow
80 of 116.118 Giseorwe; or fall of the Ganges 436 ii
45 hiftorical epochs - 119 Ganza mountain 751 Hi
14 names of e 115 Garda, Lago de 912 tf ;
54 political importance on Te- Gardening, ftate of in England 53 1 :
‘0 lations o 122 Gargarus mount = - 327 i
language introduced i into Eng- Garigliano river - 806 ie
9 “land at the Conquett 82 Garnets of Bohemia : 160 a
87 ifles of 769 Garomena ifland - 114 hi |
be Francis St., river - 671 Garonne river . 129 iH
7 Frankfort - : 295 Gavel-kind, its meaning - 25 Mt
7 on the Oder - 189 peculiar to Kent a. i
a | vnlrermty of iss Gaur . 480 ii,
Franklin college 549 mountains 482
se Frazerburgh 78 Gauts, mountains of Hindoftan 432 i
7 Frederick houfe, Buches 8 + bee 650 Geneva, lake of - é 279
” town 645 Sayer - 275
b6 Friendly ifles : - $25 Genoa - 318
i Frifch Haff - - 192 Geography, definition of : 1
9 Falda bithopric - 293 neral ° av.
a Fullallo ifland ° 541 lacred ° ° 10,
9 Fuller’s earth of England 63 ecclefiaftic i,
53 Funchal me 71 phyfical, fical, or geology -
0 Fundi, bay of . 645 rical il.
7 Funen ifland - 248 divifions of - wb.
¢ Funeral rites of the Caroline iflunds $21 ancient, orclaffical -« 9
1 in Ireland : 105 ot the middle ages ib,
4 of the Marquefe idands 523 modern th.
9 of ire the dead to chief obje& of modern th.
a of prey, by the the order in which it is
; = s.r
o ia 460 lan of ¢ nt
9 in Scotland without any of the work 9
fervice - 73 pe of the eyes of hitory 14
@. R in Siam - 407 30
8 in Tibet : 874 Georges or ohiyfcal gseemphy -
; tt New Kedand ” < 516. George St Channel
ew e $1 Rs, ann «
? Funzo river - - 708 land dy
Fan, or Afure mountain Georgia “ -
INDEX.
PAGE
German, or North Sea - 8
GERMAN STATES - - 284
Germany, hiftorical epochsof - 285
Gethen, rocks of, one of the places of
confinement of the Abyffinian prin-
ces -- - 750
Ghent - -
Ghilan - - 402
Ghifni * - - ab,
Ghizni - 442
Giagas, or Jagas of Africa 747
Giant’s caufeway 113
Gibraltar - 204
Gieffen univerfity 204
Gihon river 318
or Aru river 466
Gilolo ifland - - 504
Ginfeng of Chinefe T; atary ° 370
Gir river - - 746
Girafl, or Camelopardalis of Abyf-
finia - -
Girgi . "
Glaciers of Brenner
of Spitzbergen
of Stubeh
of Switzerland
of Tyrol ‘
Glander mountain -
Glafgow, antiquity, population, manu-
faCtures, and commerce of 76
port - 78
univerfity
Glohe, face of -
Glogau -
Glom, or Glomen river
Gloucefter -
Gnum-Gnum -
Goa - -
Goats of Tibet, their hair made into
fhawls eR, ore
Godaveri river - -
Gojam - 1 etee
Golconda mountains -
Gold mines of the eaftern caaft of
Africa
752
754
181
159
177
282
181
177
of Spanifh North America
of Spanith South Ame.
rica -
of Afam -
of Auttria -
of Borneo
of Brazil -
of Great Bucharia
of China =". °
of Cochin China
‘ of Chinefe Tatary
of-England
of France
of Guanajuato
of Heifia
of [findoftan
ot J apan
of Laos
of La Plata
» of Luzon ifland
6
137.
7
PAGE
767
681
246
400
702
224
810
662
268
192
158
298
Gold mines of Madagafcar
of Mexico
of Norway
of Pegu
of Peru
of Philippi
of Piedmont
of Porto Rico
of Portugal
of Pruffia
of “iuffia
of Salzia
of the lead-hill mountains
in Scotland - 90
of Siam 41)
of Siberia 158
of Sicily 306
of Spain 211
of Sumatra 498
of Sweden 260
of Switferland - 252
of Tebriz - 462
of Independent Tatary 474
of Zacatecas - 631
of Tibet - 378
of Wicklow - 112
Golden ifles - 520
Gomaun mountains 42
Gombroon harbour 463
Gomera ifland 771
Goniar - 750
Gondwanah_ hills 432
Gonong ifland . ‘. 507
Good Hope, Cape of 763
Goodwin Sands ° - 8°
Googoos, inhabitants of Sumatra, cover-
ed with log hair, little fuperior
to the ourang outang - 498
Gotha river - - 257
Gothenberg - ee 255
Gothland ifland - : 261
Goths, the original inhabitants of Pruf-
fia - - 183
Gothie architeéture, remains of 16
Gottingen univerticy - 292
Gouanacas, pafs of - 710
Government of the United States of
America ‘- -
of Spanifh North Ame-
rica -
of Arabia
of Afia -
of Aufiria -
of the Birman empire
of China Proper
of Denmark
of England -
of France -
of the Britith poffeffions
of Gangetic Hindof-
fan 2
of Hindoftan --
of Holland
‘of Jupan
of Irelayd
546
573
487
320
169
394
Government
‘Government of the Malays
of Perfia
of Portugal - 263
of Pruftia - 186
of Ruffia - 143
of the Ruffian empire in
Afia - 335
of Scotland - 72
of Siam - 406
of Spain - 197
of Sweden - 252
of Swifferland 273
of ‘Tatary * - 3865
of ‘Tiber - 373
- of Turkey in Afia 323
of Turkey in Europe 217
Gezo ifland - - 407
Grampian hills - 85
Granada - 204
Spanifh Americ 604
New Viceroyalty of 703
Population of - 705
Revenue of - a.
Gratz = * 173
univerfity - 172
Green mout.tains - 556
Greenland « - 648
a part of N, America 249
a part of a colony of Den-
. mark - 238
Greenwich hofpital for feamen 45
obfervatcry - tl.
& f
palace - aw.
Grenada ifland - - 663
Grenier mountains - - 432
Greenock - - 78
Grijalva river - €i9
Grimbauld vaults, Oxford, a Saxon ree.
mains - - 16
Groningen - - 231
Grotto, - o 621
prodigious, near Adletherg 181
of the fea ox 306
Grubenhagen - - 292
Guadalaxara - 563, 602
Guadalaviar river - 207
Guadalupe river - 617
Guadarama, canal of - 205
Guadcloupe ifland - 663
Guadulquiver river - 207
Guam ifland - 520
Guamana - 698
Guanajuato - - 606
mines - 631
-Guanaro - . 716
Guavaxuato - 563
Guancavelica - 698
Guanuco - - il.
Guaranis, villages of » 676
Guatemala - 564. 602
Guayaquil - 692. 704. 708
G meas - - 457
Guemmi mountain - 279
Guernfey ifland - 64
Guiana, Dutch - - 798
French - 737
INDE X.
Guiana, Portuguefe e
Spanith ° 720 | rr
Guinea - “ 561 t!
New - 512
ifland - 496 ‘
Guifbury - - 646 {
Gurief - - 838
harbour of - 839 4]
«Gurrah - - 440
Gwalior fort - - w,
H tH]
Haarlem - - 231 : H i
fea of . 238 tit
Hadramaut - - 485 ee
Heemus mountain - 299 iit
Hafiz, tomb of - 460 1
Hague - 231 ii
Haik lake - 751 lj
Hainan ifland - - 863 ae
Halberftade - 189 ae
Halifax - 43 i
Halle on the Suale - 189 ; i
Hamsurcu - - 294 | (|
Hami ois - 369 ii!
or Camil - 473 7
Hampton Court - 45 1
Hanau - - 294
Hanazo river - 751
Hanover - 292 i.
hiftorical epochs of ib. \
Hartfell mountains - 85 | i
Harricana_ river - 65.1 it
Hartz foreft - - 288 i
mountains - 287 | i)
Harward univerfity - 549 i\i
Haftings, Mr, character of 374 ae
Hau river - - 46% | i
Hawafh river - 751 ae
Hebudes ifles - - 91 |
New - 535 '
Hebudian channel 8 j
Heem, refe ailing the ancient pipe of
Pan 396 i
Hejaz - - 485 i
Heidelberg - - 296 t
Hekla mount . 247 1f
Helena St., ifland of - 769 ij
Helgeland ifland - 248 |
Hem meuntain - aio i;
Hengilt’s tower near Leyden 228 Hi
Herat 463 | | 4
Hercynia Sylva foreft - 178 i;
Heretord i 41 i
Hernafba Staer, or Great Lake 257 in.
Herrings take refuge in the Arétic Sea |
the’ wegen -
Heffia i
Hefle Darmftadt
Hetzardara_ mountains
Hiaqui
Hielnar lake
jeseslyphle inferiptions i in Portugal
A coe of Scotland
Hildetheim bithgprick
Hills, lake of. the
814
Himmala, or Snow mountsins
Hiwvostan
hiftorical ‘epochs of
Central, or the middle
provinces of
Sindetic, or the countries
on the river Sindeh or
Indus -
Southern divifion of
Britith allies in
poffeffions in
-Maratta States FS
Nizam Ali, Soubah of
the Deccan
Seiks “
Small States
Hindu Koh, mountains of
eaten river Pam
ippopotamus Inia
iit of South America
of the Cape of Good
Hope °
of Sumatra
‘Hirmanftade -
Hirfchberg -
Hirta, cor St. Kilda, ifland
Hifpaniol -
Hitteren illand
Hoanho, or Yellow River
Hog iflands PS
Hogoleu ifland -
Hoho Nor lake -
Holi Kian river
Hoan, or the Seven United Pro-
vinces
hiftorical epochs of
New -
ifland -
defcription of the in-
habitants
Holy poe : .
Holyrood houfe
Hoogley or Ugi
or Ugli
Horcalen mountain -
Horned cattle of England 8
Hornriff fands .
Horns a hes enormous found in in
Ireland «
Horfe of Ireland -
Hlorfes of Abyffinia -
of Arabia -
of Auftria .
of Cechin China
PAGE
‘431
418
420
INDE X.
Horfes of Mindanao ifland
of the Monguls
of Perfia
of Portugal .
of Ruffia -
Ruffia in Afia the native coun-
try of -
of Scotland °
of Spain
of Sumatra *
of Sweden
of Swifferland ss
of Chinefe Tata -
wild of Chinefe Tatary
of the Kirgus biel
of Tibet
of Tunis -
of Turkey -
in Alia -
Horfe-fieth eaten by the Tatars
Hofpitality to ftrangers in Ruffia
Hottentots of Africa -
Houffa ° ES
Howe fort o e
Hudfon’s Bay :
Company
fea -
Hue Fo ° P
Huiribis
Hull, or Kingfton v upon Hull, iw ts fitua-
tion aud commerce
Human fiefh eaten in New Zealand
facrifices of the ancient Mexi-
cans
offered in Otaheite,
the victims killed
in their fleep
Human victims facrificed in hte Sand-
wich iflands
Humber river -
Hunftanton clitf
Hunting in Perfia with beats of prey
Huraforas -
Huron lake ‘ -
Huron [ndians - -
Hufs, John, account of -
Hydrabad - os
Hydrography, definition of -
Hyena of Abyffinia
Hyeres ifles, thofe of Calypfo of Homer
I
Jackfon
Jad rl ge New Zealand
Jarn de mesenrncis -
J
Jogo St. ifland
uar, American tiger
fs, race of
JAMAICA :
Jamdro, or ot Pale lake
James's bay °
ifland
Jen S., iffind
Jancizo Rio
524
5223
43. i
470
513
537
655
167
447
1
752
135
509
517
703
777
770
687
761
661
662
INDE X.
PAGE
Janeiro harbour ° 736
JAPAN ° 879
Java ifland - 497,
Jauja - 698
laxartes river - 482
Ibague - 707
Ibex animal. ° 282
of Ital 805
Ibis, bird, Baypt deferted My 756
Ica 698
Ice palace on the banks of the Neva 158
Iceland - 249
Icolm kill ifand ees 92
Ida mount . 927
Idolatry of the Arabs : 486
of the Hindoos 422
of the Mexicans - 572
Idubeda mountains . 267
Jedbu 78
Jedo, the capital of Sepan, sec miles in
circumference 385
Jedogawa river ~ 388
Jenne os 974
Jerfey ifle 64
Jerufalem - 824
Jefan mountain 388
Jeffo ifland . 3879
sig ¢ one sii ae ‘ 104
ews, a fixt Pare OF che ‘pop tion o
Prague 178
Ikenild or Ikneld, a Romen road 16
Tlak - 472
Tlay ifland ° 91
Tdefonfo S. palace ° 204
Ili river - 369
lliniffa mountain - 672
Amandra lake - 154
Tnnaus mountain - 431
Imeritia ° ab.
Incas of Peru - 693
India beyond the Ganges 890
Ocean - 3
Eaft, Company - 29
Weft Indies - 658
Indians, American, manners of 656
Tndigo of Hindoftan - 434
Indus river 820. 429
Infants cxpofed in China 855
Inflamwable earth of Perfia 470
Ingoldftadt univerfity - 297
Inifney ifland - 114
Iniftrahul - wb.
Inifture ifland - tb.
Inn river 176, 296
Juquifition of the Spanifh fettlements
of America - 572
Infpruck univerfity . 172
Tutendants, Spanifh ° 565
Taverary - 79
Jnvernefs - 78
the chief refidence of the
Caledonian ve 70
Sobi ifland 514
Jodo river 368
Jobn St. d’Ulloa ifland 599
river 645
John town, Newfoundland
Johor, kingdom of
Joliba river -
Joux lake
Joyeufe entrée, or Magna Chante of
the Netherlands
TRELAND
called Scotia by mona
writers
after called Erin -
the chief tribes mentioned
by Ptolemy é
imports and exports of
a with Heyes
Irghis river .
Iskutfk . %
foreft Fe
Iron mines of Anfpach °
of Arabia i
of Mount Auas
of Auftria é
of Carron -
of China &
of Elba ifland -
of England -
of France ie
= oe ES
of Ja FS
of Ireland =
of Luzon ifland
of Maffachufet’s
of the Netherlands
of Sentland °
of Siberia °
of Sicily $
of Spain e
ef Stiria °
of Sumatra :
of Sweden -
of Swifferland -
of eeu - -
of the Tyrolefe Al
of Wartonberg re
bridges of Colebrook dale and
Sunderland -
or bald mountains
native, mafs of, in La Plata
Troquois -
Irrawady river
Irrigation praétifed ‘n China Proper
in Italy
in the Milanefe
in Perfia
in Piedmont
Irtith river -
Treell river *
Tfchia ifland -
Ifeo lake - -
Ifer river
fafs made of the founds or air-
bladder of the fturgeon
aan
em A SA ONE IO A DEO TILE EEO ME m0 DBI SATO
TS einer ace oes IE as ee
816
PAGE
655
+ 460
Tfkimoe of Labrador
Hfpayan -
Fel river
Jilim river
ftep of
Iftakar mae
Italy, ftates of -
Itchin river
Juan San, de Frontena
~ de los Lianos
Fernandes ifland
St.,-river
Sudda iy a
Jujuy
Julian, or Carnic- Ales
dulin city~
Jumna river -
Junkfeylon enc:
Ivora
Jupiter Atmow.
Jura ifland
mount -
Jurjura mountain
dury, trial by in England
Jutes, arrival in England
Jutts riff land Wise
Iztaccihuat! mountain
K
Kaba, or temple of Mecca
Kabra - Fi
Kaffers - *
Kalmucks
fpecimen of their poetry
Kandal Steig lake
Kandi
Kangaroos of . Van Diemen’s sand
of New Holland . Le
Karacum, or the Black Sand Defert
Karek ifland - -
Karia - -
Karm ifland -
Katfina
Kaviar, preparation of the falted roe
of dried fith - 150.
Keen Duem river
Keeps, or towers of Saxon caftles
Ken lake - -
Kennebec river -
Kennet river
Kent, kingdom, founded by the
Saxons, i in 460 -
Kerguelan’s land -
Kerman -
defert
Kerun lake -
Kefem
Kehhip Dag mount
Kefho
Ketterin
Kew garden
Khanfm
Khiva
Khieb
s
INDE X.
Kiachta
Kian Ku river,
Kiel canal
univerfity
Kilan
Kilda, or Hirta ifland
Kilkenny f
Kiliarney lake y
Killiftinons . -
Kimos, a nation of dwarfs in
Madagafear
King of England, his hingions and
title
Coronation Saha
Kingtton on Hull -
in Jamaica -
Kinkatao . - rf %
Winnekulle mountain -
Kinfale
Kiou Long, or Maykoung rv river
Kiow
Kireagatch
Kirguftes, or Kaizaks
three hords of
Kirin Oula
Kithina ifland
Kifliur harbour
Kiftna river -
Kiufiu ifland
Kizil Ozen, or Refid Roud river
Kniftineanx -
Kofez mountains
Koh Zerdeh, or the yellow moun-
tains -+ 6 «©
Koheniz, or ancient caftle of
Bokhara -
Kelen mountains -
Kolyvan - .
Kom, or Khums -
Kongfberg - -
Konigfberg
untvertiy
819, 466
65.5
468
Korakas
Koran of the Turks
Koreifhites ,
Koromantee flaves
Kotlan, or Khotlan
Kotun 3
Koufis 4
Kienk river
Kulla river
Kuma river PA
Kumri mountain
Kur river ‘
Kurdiftan mountains
Kurds é
Kurilian iflands
Kuron mountain
Kuttore 4
Kymman river
LLangued
ey lake
Lapis al
pis calir
Laplander
Labrador
Lacadive iflands
Lazivate
Ladoga canal °
Ladrone iflands -
ore - -
Lakfa - -
Lakes of Cumberland -
of Ireland -
of Scotland -
Lemaknon mountain -
mbayeque - -
Lambey ifland :
Lantpa %
Lamurech ifland a
Lanark 3
Lancaster « : 7%
Duchy court -
Lantfam, or Lantfan .
Lindisfarn ifle =
Land’s height mountain -
Langaras harbour -
Lanfiall mountains «
Language of North America
of North American Indians
of the United States of
America -
of the Arabs -
of the Birman er pire
of the Bucharians
of Canada -
of China Proper -
of Denmark -
of Egypt -
of England -
its affinity to the
French & Dutch 72.
of the European nations
of France -
of Germany -
of Hindoftan -
of New Holland -
ef Japan -
of freland -
of Malaya, or Malacea
of the Man ldburs
of Mexico i
of the Monguls -
of the Nethcrlauds
of Perlia -
of Porvugal -
of Rufia -
of Scotland -
of Siam -
of Spain -
of Sweden -
of Swifferland -
of the Tatars “
of Tibet
of Turkey in Afia
of the Uzbeks -
nguedoc canal :
” ehh
08 e bad
Lapis caliminaris of England
landers eae
Danith *e
Swedith poe
e@
~
Loniveja
ab,
ee as enn ta ee
. 453
Laffa - 3874
Lauenberg - Q02
Laurence St., gulph ‘ -537
river - 641
Lauricocha river - 669
Laufanne - 276
Law martial, of England - 26
- Laws of the United States of America 547
of the Birman empire 394
of China Proper - 353
of Denmark - 238
of England 25
of Hindoflan - 423
of Holland - 222
of Japan ae 3882
of Portugal - 263
of Pruifia - 186
of Ruffia - 144
of Scotland - 42
of Siam - 404
of Spain - 198
of Swifferland - 273
of Turkey i: Europe 217
Lead mines of Spanih South America, 688
of Avebia « 494
of Auftria - 180
o. ngland - 62
of France - 133
of Hanovey - 293
of Heffia - ib.
of Joyaaica - 662
of ure Milanefe 812
of New Leon - 634
of Perfia ~ 470
of Portugal - 268
of Prumia : 192
of Salzia - 298
of Saxony - 291
of Scodand - 90
of Siam - 412
of Siberia - 847
of Sicily o 306
ot Sirinague 440
of Sweden - 260
of Swiffealand 282
of Tibet - 7
of the Tyrolefe Alps 177.
Load, red, of Siberia - 847
Lehanon, or Libanus mountain 327
Lecco lake - - 301
Lech river - 296
Leck river - a 238
Lee river ‘a « 54
Leech lake “ 556
Leeds - « 43
Leeward iflands 659
Leige bithoprick ° 295
Leine river 293
Leipfig ° - 290
Lemburg - - 173
Lemming, or Norwegian moufe 246
Lemnos ifland _ . 225
Lemon Sande * 9
Lena Wty . ” 940
Leon, St, - s 60%
. 9G Leon,
}
Seiioues
IE aS ee cf
onecatin
z=
te
sali
weer aS
818
Leon, and cathedral o.
Leoo Keoo iflands
Leopards ufed in Hindoftan for the
chafe of antelopes
Levant, or Turkey trade -
Leuis ifland 7
wes - .
den - -
ie ifland -
Leytha river
asia royal, of the Birman empire
SS. at Cairo -
‘ Conftantinople -
at Philadelphia -
Ligurian epee -
Lima
- 682,
Limbourg “ “
Limerick ° “
Limmat river -
Lincoln
Linen manufadtory of Ireland
of Scotland
Lin a e s
Linth river .
Lion of Arabia -
ot Abyflinis °
of Perfia °
of Tunis F
of Turkey in Afia «
Lipari iflands e
ftoves, or warm caves
Li = Ld
Lippe
Lion, the ancient Ulyltppo
Literature of the United States of
America -
of Arabia -
of Aufiria .
of the Birman empire
of Great Bucharia
of Denmark -
of England -
of France °
of Germany °
of Hindoftan -
- — -
o n -
car
of the Ne etherlands
of Perfia -
of Swifferland
of the Taters -
Littermore iflang -
Liverpool
Liven of 0 ote efteemed é dlaey
INDE X.
PAGE
203
363
435
325
96
41
231
503
161
396
601
219
549
313
3S
Livorno, or Leghorn: ~
Loadftone, mountain of, near Chihuahuas?
in Siam ail
Loango - - 762
Lobel mountain - 177
Lovarno lake - 301
Loch Dolen lake: - 84
Leven lake -- ab,
Loil lake - ib,.
Lomond = w..
, Nefs ~ - il.
Locufts eaters in Arabia - 494
Lodomeria - - 173.
Loffoden ifland ~ 249
Loire river - - 129
Loja - - 692:
Lombardy ~ - 139
Lombek ifland - 497. 501
Lon river 54
London in the imeof the Eaft hanes
maintained its Roman emi-
nence - 1)
churches of - 37
environs of - th;
Londonderry - 107
Long Forty fands - y
hid ifland » : - 561
's prayer Dutc - 230:
me Finnith - 240;
Prific - 1b.
Ivith - 105
Laplandic - 240.
Orkney Norfe 74
Saxon 33
Scotland Erfe, or r Trith 74
Lowlands w..,
Lorenzel mountain - 177
Lotus of Fgypt - 756
Lough Neagh - 110:
Louifburg - - 646
Louifiana - 536, 537
Lowven river - 244
Lucca - - 8008
Lucerne lake - 279
Lucie St. ifland « 669
Lucknow - ° 4539
hills - 432:
Lugano lake - ° 801,
Luis de Potofi - 631
Lunden univerfity + 254
Lundy ifle - - ou
Luneberg -
Lupata mountains, or {pine of the world 776
Luxembourg - 138
Luzon ifland - . $02
mga creek - 244
Lyons ° ° 195
Macas . - 709
Maétan ifland - 509
car, ifland of ° 767
M. of Hindoflan . 494
Medein, ifland of 8 771
Madma
~. PAGE
Madras - at 446
Madiid - - 202
Madura ifland - 497
Mauzander river - 326
Maeftricht - - 231
Mafumo river - 765
Magadafho: - 766
Magdalena river : 671.710
Magdeburg - - 189
Magic of Africa - 762
Magicians of Madagafcar - 768
Magna charta ° 5
Maguefi, or Magnets > 324
Mahé ifland - - 769
Mahomet, his tomb ut Mcdina 489
Mahometan religion . 216
Majorca ifland - 212
.Makaung, or wanykanny vie river of 376
Makian ifland 504
Movtay. Ay OF MALACGA . 402
Malacca city - 403
peninfula of - i,
Malagd .) - 222
Malayan ifles 404
Malays, their progrefs to diffrent
iflands 403
of Sumatra - 498
Maldives iflands - 451
Malea mc untain - 450
Maleg river - - 751
Mallicollo ifland - 516
Malouin ifles © - 742
Malftrom whirlpool - 247
Malta ifland - . 807
Mammoth - * 559
Man, ifle of - - 65
Manati of America 559
or mermaid of the Airaights
of Beering - 846
Manchefter - - 39
Mandingos negroes ° 761
flaves fu called - ib,
Mandthurs $65
Mandeville, Sir dohp, one of the
earlieft writers of sogit
prefe - 42
Mangalore : - 445
Manzenares river . 202
Manheim - - 296
Maniana - 974
Manilla, or Philippine idauds 502
Manuers. See Cuftoms
Mantua ts . 912
Manufactures. See Commerce
Maouna ifland ° 526,527
Maple fugar of the Untted States of
America §52
Maps, ancient, in the Britith Mufeum 7”
Mar bank «
Maracaybo - 716, e3
agoon of 668
Maranon, ov river of the Amesons 669
Maravi lake - -, 776
Marble, Parian - 224
of Puebla 636
Marbles and free flone in England 6)
INDEX.
Marburg univerfity ys re
Marcou St., ifland of a
Mareb . *
river, faid to fink under ground
Marechites, a favage tribe in New
Brunfwick
Marengo, noted. for a viGiory of
Buonapat te over the Auftrians
Mareotis lake -
Margarita - > ‘=
Margus, or Margab river -
Marian iflands -
Mariana river - -
Marino, St. - -
Mariquita - -
Maritz river -
Marmot animal -
of Ttaly -
Marquefas iflands -
Marriages of the Abipons -
in China Proper
laws of, tfegarde in
France
of Hindoftan -
of New Holland
of the Japanefe -
of Perfia -
in Yuffia -
in Scotland -
in Siam -
in Sumatra -
in Tibet -
in Turkey -
Marfeilles - «
Marta, Santa - -
St. Sierra, Nevada of
Martaban
Martin St., ifland, South America
Martinique, ifland of - 668, 664
Mafkat
490
Maffacre at Delhi by Haas Shah 439
Maffagetes 366
Maffart mountain - 343
Matavia harbour 525
Mathias Corvinus king of Hungary,
charaster of 167
Matthew, St. ifland of « 970
Matura - . 449
Mauritius iflands - 9769
Maxiina Ceefarienfis - 12
Maygue river . 899
Mazendran . - 453
mountains “ 467
Mayne river - 2866
Mecca - . 489
temple of - il,
Mechoacan 605
Mecklenburg Schwerin, and Gufto 294
Meder mountains 467
Mediator, the idea of in Japan 361
Medical {chools of Scovland 75
Medina - - 489
Mediterranean fea of Afia 8.918
Megala, mountains of - 758
Mejerda river - ty.
Meinam river « 411
9G2 Meinam
}
Meinam Kong river
Mekran - 453
mountains e 468
Mek hid river’ ° 465
Melinda - 766
Men, wild of Malaya ° 403
Menai ftraight . 45
Menang Cabou - 498
Menang Cabul ° td,
‘Mend river ‘e e 465
Mendip hills - - 55
Mendoze ° - 676. 683:
ifles - 522
river - 671
Menteiih, lake of - 84
Mentz, eleAcrate of - 293
Menazal: lake 758
Mercia, hingdom of, founded by the
Eafi Angles in 585 - 12
Merida - - 563.660
Sierra Nevada of . 672
Merimac river ° 555
Merce ifland - 759
Meriey river - . 54
Mefiina - 806
Mefurata 758
Methodifts, tneteati of in England 21
Meufe or Maefe river ~ 226
forms a large lake, overwhelms
ing 72 villages with 100,000
inhabitants - ib,
Mexico, or New Spain - 563
city - - 590
luke of - 592
, New ° 563, 638
Mextit'an - - 603
Miaco - 395
Miami river - - 554
Michel St., ifland - 269
Michigan lake - - 538
ftraight - wb,
Micimacs an Indian tribe of Nova
Scotia - - 646
Middleburg - 981
New - 938
Miguel San - - 683
Milan - - orl
Mills, wind or water, none in Arabia 490
Mindanao ifland - 509
Minder river - - 326
Mindoro ifland 503
Miueraloy of Spanith North America 631
of Spanith South America 687
of South America, annual
product 688
of the United States of
America - 560
of Arabia - 4904
of Auftria 179
of Bavaria and he Palati-
nate 296
ef the Birman empire 490
of Braail - 706
of Canada - 644
of Ceylon - 450
of China - 362
Minera ogy of Chili “
of Denmark « 246
of Egypt - 755
of the ifle of Elba 3809
of England - 62
of Frauce ° 133
of Granada New 712
of Hanover > 293
of Hebudes - 93
of Hindofian - 435
of New Holland 512
of Jayan : 369
« of Ireland < 112
of Madava‘car 767
of the Netherlands 140
of La Plata - 687
of Perfia - 470
of Peru - 703
of Portugal - 267
of Pruaffia - 192
of Rutlia - 153
of Ruffia in Afia 347
ot Sa'zia - 298
of Saxony - 291
of Se: tland - 90
of the Scottith ifles gl
of Siam ee ath
of Sicily - 306
of Spain - 212
of Sweden - 259
of Swifferland . 262
of Tatary 370
of Independent T nary . 483
of Tibet 378
of Tunis - 758
of Turkey - 923
of Turkey in Afie 324%
of Tufvany - 308
of Wurtemburg - 297
Minerals’ waters of Spanith North
America
Minho river
Minith ifland
Minong
Minorca ifland
Mio lake
637
of the) nited States
of America’ - 560
of Arabia - 492
of Auftria - 181
of Egypt - 757
of England 63
of France . 134
of Hindoftan 436
of Japaa - 390
of Perfia - 470
of Portugal 268
of Pruffia - 193
of Ruffia - 158
of Ruffiain Afia 04a
of Scotland - 90
of Spain - 211
of Sweden - 260
of Swifferland 88
of Tibet - uve
of Turkey in Afia = 3.29
- 207
- 114
«. ~ S05
e 912
e s o44
= Mififippi
way ee eee
KA]
INDE X%
823
PAGE. : PAGER
Miltifippi river ° 539 Mulda river . 176. 291
Miflouri river . ib. Mules of Spain . 2r1
Mit'a, ruins of - 571 Mull ifland 92
Mocaranga - 766 Mumbos, Canibals of Africa 777
Mocha - - 490 Munich - 296
Mocobs - - 239 Munniporah - 397.440
Mocuas e - 766 Murcia ° 20%
Motena - 813 Mus Tag mountain - 483
Moat wells in Scotland - 90 Moorfhedabad. * 439
rohawks - 655 Muik of Independent T Teary 474
i Mokanturu ifland 349 cattle $59
J Moldavia, a part of ancient Dacia 213 deer - - 377
% Mole river os - 53 wetels - 435
Molucca ifles © 497.504 Myfolifland - 505
Moluches . - 740 Myvforyifland - 514
Monchaboo - 397 Mythology of Hindoftan - 422
Mondego river 267 of the Danith Laplanders 239
Money, the exceffive love of in Holland 229 of Pagan Bulle 143
Monguls 336.366 Myzilene ifland 829
Monopolies Royl in ‘Spain 205
( Mons ° 138 N
Monfia ifland - 769
Monfoons of Hindoftan - 427 Nabriver - ° 296
Montagu port ” 515 Nacogdoches - 608
Montevideo - 676, 682 Nagafaki - - 886
Montezuma river ° 598 Nagold river - 297
Montpel'ier - - 126 ©Nagpour - 444
Montreal - . 643 Mamur - 138
Montrofe - - 78 Nankin . 357
Pitts , 9 Nantes . 126
Mont ¢’Or . . 130 Naples and Sicily - 305
’ ’ Montferrat - 208 Naphtha, or fountains of pure rock oil 470
ifland . oe 663 medical qualities of 47.
Monument ot London . 87 Naphthonia ifland - 478
Moori(h remains in Portugal * 963° Narin river e - 482
Moofe deer : ° $59 Narva river - - 154
fort ” : 650 Naffau - ° 298
river . 651 fort in the Bahamas ° 666
Moot hi'ls . 16 hall : +e 549
Morad river . a 025 ifands . ° $00
Morat lake ° 379 ~=—s Natal ° - 765
Mora river ° 176 = Natchez river - ° 617
Morava river . 222 National debt of Great Britain as
Morocco ° 759 Natron lakes in Egypt : 758
Mofcow 149 ©Natuna ifland ° ° 497
canal 150 Nauhcanpatepet! mountain : 626
Motks of ( onftantinople and Adie Navigation, inland, of China Proper 357
anople 220 of Denmark 942
: at Cordova ° 196 of England 47
' Motala river . 957 of France 126
p Motir ifland _ oe 505 of Hindoftan 426
, Moultan 457 of Holland 932
Mountains, Obs. on m eles of | 8 of Ireland 108
of China Proper 961 of the Netherlanils 196
of England - 54 neylested in Pruffia 190
, of Europe . 9 of Rutlia : 150
; of France - 190 of Scotland - 60
y of Ireland =” 111 of Spain - 204
of the Netherlands 199 of Sweden 258
of Ruflia - 155 Navigators’ iflands - 525
of Scotland - @5 Navy of the United States of America 547
of Wales - 5S of Nenmark - aoa
Moroil Ganga river - 449 of England =, § - 97
Mortay ifland - 504 of France 2 129
Mozuabaza . 766 of Japan 8 Aas
Mozambico ° it, of Herga * - 459
a@Go
qf
822 INDE X.
is = el PAGE
avy of Fortu 264
of Pruffia ; 187
of Ruflia : 147
of Siam 407
of Spain 199 ©
of Sweden 253
Nazas - - - 619
Necker river - - 287.206
Neged defert 485
Negro colonies, the defolation t to be ex-
pected from s
Negropont ifland °
Neiper the ancieut vt Boryfthenes
Neiva
Nelfon river -
Nemakas
tribes
Little
Nemi lake -
Nerbudda river -
Nerfhinfk mountains
NETHERLANDS, the ancient Belgie
Gaul - -
Neva river ° .
Nevada Sierra mountain
Nevado of Toluca
Neutchatel lake -
Nevil’s crofs -
Nevis, ifland -
Neufidler lake “.
Newcaftle upon Tyne
Newfoundland fithery banks
ifland
Newry canal -
Niagara falls -
fort
Nicaragua - -
Nicaragua lake -
may be made a means
of communication be-
tween the Atlantic
and Pacific oceans
mounttains .
Nickel mines of England -
Nicobar Iilands - @
Nicofia -
Nicoya, Pearl fithery e
Niemi lake and mountains -
Niefter or ancient Tyrus «
Nieuport in the Netherlands = -
Nieuveld mountain ‘ @
Niger river -
Nile river -
fource of
various names -
inundation aor fat paral vs
Nimen river - -
Nipon ifland . -
ingia :
Nitre of the N. of Aftracan
Noabeva ifland s
Nogafa river -
Noirmoutier tfland
Nord kioping -
Nordfirand ifland
fwallowed up by an
inundation -
Norman conqueft of England, monu-
ments of -
North Foreland -
North-weft company
Norway. See Denmark
Norwegian Alps re
Nore
Nou Kia river
Novogorod .
Nubia -
Nueces river ” .
Nuremburg - -
Nutmeg tree and fruit °
reftrifted by the Dutch
to Banda 5
introduced into the Ifland
of Mauritius -
of New Britain -
oO
Onfis of Mount Ghamee
Oaxaca
town -
Ob river ~ -
Obfervatory at Greenwich:
Ochill mountains
Ochotfk :
mountains
Oder river
Ocfel ifland
Offak ifland
Ohevahoa river
Ohio river
Ohittahoo ifland
Ojingawa river
Oitz lake
Olchon ifland
Oldenburg
Oleron ifland
Olmutz
Olonetz mountain
Oloolong itland
Olympus mount
Ombrone river
Omey ifland
Omon
Onega lake
psc
Onolfback
Onon river
Onondagas
Ay ve *
of Hungar
Opair dha j
Opium, ufe of in Torkey
Oporto -
Opoun ifland -
river
Oranfa ifland - -
Orco river, cafcade of .
Ordeal, trial by, anangh the son
Ore fands
-
pa 4
INDEX.
PAGE
654
838
670
601
96
126
ab,
131
540
440. 471
Orabarg bithoprie
Ouller, or Tal lake
Ourang Outang
‘Owhyhee ifland
‘Oxford colleges and ‘kets Suncare
auvruws or eee TT
-
.
Euderborn bithoprick
5 Sh tains of, in England
Pallanfer mountain
Palm wine of Africa
” 5 2
Soe wee Oe esos
Pages plains of Buenos Ayres
326
683
472
322
673. 677
c=
Ta amperos a defrubtive wind in South
gororesore
Paniany
Panther of Abyitinia
661
Papua, or New Guinea ifland
Papyrus of Egypt
Para -
Parima mountains
Parliament of England
Parma and Placentia
Parrys mine of copper in Anglefey
Parfees or Guebers, worthippers * fire
Path S:, purgatory
Peacock of Ceylon
Peak of Derbythire, wonders of
Pearls of the ifle of Bahrin
of the Bornean iflands
Peafants of Rutlia, their condition
Pelle, deftroyed by an euihquale
Pendataria ifland
Pennigent mountain
Pepper of Sumatra
twenty-two fpecies i in Spelt
A
Perdu mountain
Perfepolis, ruins of
824
PAGE
Perfia, gulph of : 463
Eaitern - ah.
Perth - ’ 77
Peru, viceroyalty o <3 9 690
Peruvian hiftory - 693
Peftilence, ftopped in its progrefs from
Conftantinople by the heat of
Egypt . .
Peter the Great, his defign of uniting
754
the Don with the Volga 150
Peterhead - - 78
mineral water - 90
Peterfburg - - 149
Petihora river - 154
Peypus lake - - 155
Phafis river of Ptolemy = + 450
Philadelphia - - 550
Philippine iflands - 502
Philofophical fociety of Pennfyivania 549
Pheenicians fuppofed to have been the
firlt difcoverers of the Britith Ifles 10
Piapis harbour - - 514
Piavi river - sol
Piazinfko lake - ° 342
Picardy, canal of - 126
Pichincha mountain - 672
Pico, or the Peak ifland 269
Pi&i applied by Bede to Scotland 66
Piedmont - -
Pigeon, great crowned, of New Irer
Jand - - 515
crowned, or gigantic of Papua 514
Piombino : ° 809
Pifa . - 808
Pitti ifland - - 500
Piura ‘© - 692
Placentia - - 313
in Newfoundland 647
Plaffey, battle of = - - 438
Pheta la, river - 541. $76
la, viceroyalty of - 674
Platte river . 617
Platten fee - - 176
Plau lake - - 287
Pleiffe river - ~ 291
Plomb du Cantal mountain 130
Plumbago, or black lead mines near the
baths of Binay * - 310
Po river - - 800
Po Fernando ifland - 740
Poggy iflands - - 500
Poifonous animals, none in Ireland 338
Pola ifland - - $26
Po.anp - - 187
Po.ynesta - - 518
Polzevera - - o14
Pomerania, Swedifh - 260
Pomona - - 06
Pondicherry - - 424
Ponte de Dios ~ - 637
Ponza ifland . - 307
Poona - - 447
Poorunder - : wh,
Poyayan - - 708
Pope, territory of the = + 807
Popocatepetl mowntain - 625
INDEX.
Population
Poreo
Foreupine,
Porno Mufe
of Abyffinla
of Africa :
of America -
of the Spanifh N. America 574
Auclent -
571
of the Spanifh S. America 679
of South America impeaed
by the fmail-pox
of-the United States of
America
of Arabia -
of Afia -
of Auftria *
of the Birman empire
of Canada é
of Ceylon
of China :
ef China Proper
of Denmark —
of St. Domingo
of Egypt °
of England -
of Europe
of France -
of Germany
of Granada, New
of Hindeftan -
of the Britifh poffeffions in
Gangetic Hindoftan
of Holland -
of Jamaica -
of Japan -
of Ireland .
of Italy .
of London °
of Milan °
of Naples -
of the Netherlands
of Paris -
of Perfia -
of Peru °
of Porto Rico
of Portugal +
of Pruffia
of Ruffia -
of the Ruffian empire in
Afia -
of Saxony -
of Scotland -
of Siam -
of Siberia -
of S:ain -
of Sweden -
of Swifferland
of ‘Jatary *
of Independent Tatary
of Tiber -
of Turkey in Afia
of ‘Turkey in Europe 219,
of Vienna -
the crefted =
hir ifand : |
Port Royal, Jamaica
Porter, Englith °
Porto Belfo
575
544
485
315
169
994
Porto Cavello .
Porto Riegi ifland -
Porto Santo land -
Portfmouth °
Portfoy - “
ifland :
Portucar -
hiftorical epochs -
Potofi - - 675.
Povanhou lake
Prages mountaia -
Prome -
Providence ifland | 6
Prufa - :
mineral. water of °
Prussia - -
hiftorical epochs of
Prarmigan bird of Scotland -
Pudda river -
Puebla de fos Angelos - 563.
Puelches = *
Puka ‘Thon pyramid -
Pulawain ifland - 497.
Pulicat lake ° >
Pulo Laut ifland - -
Puma, American Lion -
Puno ° - 676.
Puy, rocks of - -
Puy de Dome mountains -
Santi mountain -
Pyramids of Egypt -
Pyrenees -
G. ’ Spain -
Q.
Quail fighting at Sumatra -
Quakers in ngfind -
Quangtong -
Quvatlia wood of Sotaie .
Qucthec -
Quebracho, a hard tree of Para
ay °
Quedlingburg °
Queretaro
Quero deftroyed by an earth-
quake -
Quickfilver of Auftria -
of Great Bucharia
of France -
of Idria ®
of the Palatinate .
of Heth -
of the Tyrolefe Alpe
Quilao °
Quito . . ®
R
Raab river °
Rachlin tflaad, the Ricina of
Prolemy °
Rackama lake =e. e
Ragnifa - °
Rauil’s iQend -
INDE X.
707
176
214
326
309
245
Rangoon -
Rannock moor in n Scotland - 88.
Rafht - - 462
Raza ifland - - 92
Ré ifland - - 135
Realejo - - 60a
Red River of Texas - 617
Refurmation of England. + 15
Rejangs of Sumatra - 498
Rein deer of Finmark and Lapland 246
of Ruffia in Afia - 846
of Sweden - : 259
Religion of Abyffinia - 749
of North America 536
of Spanith North America 572
of South America - 667
of the United States of Ame-
Tica - 546
of Arabia - 486
of Afia - 318
of Auftria - 168
of the Birman empire 393
of Great Bucharia - a79
of Canada * 648
of Ceylon - 418
of China Proper - 352
of Denmark - 437
of Egypt - 758
of England - 17
of Europe - r)
of France - 190
of Germany - 285
of Hanover - 992
of Hindoftan - 422
of Holland - 228
of Japan - 382
of Jreland - 108
of Tialy 298
of Mexico $72
of Naples and Sialy - 806
of Otaheite 504
of Eaftern Perfia 457
of Peru - 698
of Portugal - 268
of Pruffia, « 186
of Rida - 143
of Ruflia in Afia - 938
of Saxony - 293
of Scotland - 72
of Siam - 406
of Spain - 197
of Sweden - 252
of Swifferland ° 273
of, Tatary e 365
of Independent Tear 474
of Tibet 873
of Turkey in Europe 216
of Wurte! ‘mburg = 297
Revenues of Abytlinia ° 749
of Spanith N. America 577
of Spanith S. America 679
of the United States of
America - 847
of Auttria « 169
of the Birmay empire 394
of Canada - 642
4 Revenues
SEI Te
$26 INDE X.
PAGE
Revenues of China Proper 4 Romfdal horn mountain
of Denmark : Rona ifland
of Egypt - Rofa mount
of England - Rofe port <
of France - Rofetta za
of Hindoftan - 3 Roftock univerfity
of the Britith poffeffions in Rotterdam
Gangetic Hindottan * 437 Roufs lake -
of Holland - 229 Rubicon *
of Japan - 383 Rud, or Divrud river .
of Ireland - 103 = Rugen ifland %
of the Netherlands Runic antiquities in Denmark and
~of Perfia Norway *
of Peru Russia -
of Portugal ‘ hiftorical epochs
ot Pruffia in Afia =
of Ruflia hiftorical epochs
of Siam Ruffian American company
of Spain
of Sweden
of Swifferland Saal river
of Tibet Sabia
of Turkey - Sabina river
Revolution of England ony Sable, ifle de ‘
Reufs - Sables of Ruffia in Afia ‘
river Sabres, manufacture of, at Damafcus 323
Rheetian, or Fret Alps Sacaria river . 396
Rhine . Saco river 555
Rhinoceros of Abyfinia Sagalian, or Tchoka, ifand of 370
of Hindoftan 35 Saikokf ifland 379
of Sumatra Saima lake “ 258
Rhode ifland Sakai “
Rhodes ifland - Sala ifland rt
Rhone river Salamanca univerfity
Rhubard on the banks of ve Ural Salayar ifland
Rhum ifland Salem -
Ribira Sali river -
Richborough caftle, the amient Rutu- Salifoury a
pis of the Romans - 6 Crags, Edinburgh
— gunn : Salonica - »
Salfeite ifland -
Risin of bells, a peculiar amufement Salt mines of Auftria
of England of England
Rinteln univerfty of Wurtemburgh
Riobumba mountain of, in-Algicr
roid Norte rock of Arabia
- of New Holland
Ricks foreft - of Siberia
Rivers, on the conrfe of - : of Swifferland
Roads of the Romans in in aghne of Tibet
Roandrians i] fprings of Bavaria
Rock fingularly poifed near Disham, works of Salzia
North America Salta ° 676. 693
Roe-deer not unfrequent in Scotland Saltee IMands - 114
Roermond - Saltpetre mines of Auftria 180
Rohn ifland - : an imperial traffic * Ruffia 150
- of Spain
Saltzburg archbifhopric -
Romans, their progrets in England Salvador, fan
remains in Englan’ = + Salwatti ifland
in France Salz or Salzia
in Germany Salzburg bithopric
in Holland Samar ifland
IND
E X.
a
5 encima I Ea eo RRA RI NA ALOR 9 RE:
PAGER
Sarena mountain 751
Samiel, a burning wind of Arabia 491
the hot w vind of Perfia 465
Samos ifland - 224,329
Samofata - 325
Sampoo or Berhampooter river 820.376
San Antonio de Bejay - 607
San Luis Potofi - 563
Sana 489
San&a Sophia chnpati at Conftan-
tinople - 215
Sand-banks in the fea -
a refurt for cod and other
fith - 9
‘Sandwich ifles - 521
Sanga mountain - 672
Bangro river - 306
Sangui ifland - 504
Sans Souci - 190
Santa Fé - 606. 676
Santa Fé de Bogota - 705
Santee river 556
Santorine, volcanic explofions of 225
Sarabat, or Hermus river 826
Saragoffa - - 203
Sardinia - 811
Sardjoo, or Gagra river - 376
Bari ” 462
Sark ifle - 65
Sartar ifland - 248
Safkafhawin river - 651
Satchou river - 412
Sau, or Save river - 176
Savage mountains - 556
Savannah river - 7b.
Savannahs, what - 558
Sauzes, Rio de Los - 671
Saxons in England - ll
Saxon chronicle 33
heptarchy of Britain, “table of 12
sand Angles, antiquities of 44
Eaft, in England - 11
Weft, in England - ib.
Saxony - ~ - 289
hiftorical epochs of 290
Sayanfk, mountains of 342
Scalpa ifland - 92
Scalpe river ° 139
Scainander river ~ 822
Scandinavian chain - 245
Scarborough - . 48
mineral wetggy of 63
Scheld river 139
Schlangenberg mountain - 343
Schlos mountain - 177
Schiwarrzpura, in Thuriogis 295
Schweidnitz 190
Scilly, ifles of ‘65
the Cafliterides of the
ancients - ah,
Scio ifland - 224. 329
Scotia, Nova - 645
ScorLanp ° ; 66
names of - il.
names of the former inha-
bitants, extent and names
PAGE
of their territories 66
Scotland,- called Caledonia by Tacitus 28. “.
Picti by Bede ib.
Seotia in the 11th
century - we
amufemenits of - 73
climate and feafons of 81
colonies of - 70
diet of 73
hiftorical epochs relating to 69
errors in Ptolemy's Bay of 68
extent of 66 7
ecclefiaftical geography of 71 4
Progreffive geography of 68 ;
General Aflembly of 723
imports and exports of 81 ;
improvements in buildings 75
monuments of antiquity in 69 2
noblemen and gentry men’s 4
feats in 79 s
number of parithes in 72
prefbytery of - il, :
union of, a favourable
meafure - 29 2
Scylla - - 306 tS
Scythians - - 324 i
the original inhabitants of i"
Turkey ir, Europe 2138 i
Sea-dog-fith of the Mediterranean 7 tf
Seals formerly tamed in Scotland 87 i,
Sea-ports of the Netherlands 138 4
Sea ef A7of - - 7 "
Baltic - al,
Black fea - a
German, or North - 8 it
Mediterranean 7 uy
White, Quen, .or Ganvick ib, ; |
Sea water of the Baltic . ib, r
Seafons, change of, in Ireland 109 |
Seceders in Scotland - 71 4
Sccretaries of ftate - 25 |
eg : - 453 i
- - 774
Seculeff - 761
Seine river - - 129
pal river - 339. 342
Semilat - - 825
Sempach lake - 279
Senegal river - - 773
Sennaar - - 748
Sennekas - - 655
Seraglio at Adrianople - 230
at Conflantinople : ib.
Sergippe : - 735
Seringapatam 445
Severn houfe, Hudfon’s s bay - 651
river 53.651
Seville 1 ihe 203
Shagreen, how cule - 339
Shamani{m - - 865
Shamo defert - 368
Shannou ° - 110
Shecpoorte hills” : ‘oa |
at t - 432
Shawls of Cathmer 442
Sheep of Spanith South America 687
$28
fa
Sheep of Arabia - 493
of Auftria - 179
improved breed of, in Eng-
land - 60
of France - 1338
of Hanover - 293
of Bindefian - 485
not to be found in Japan 389
of the Kirgus Tatars - 476
large tailed, of Perfia 469
of Parma and Placentia 313
of Portugal - 269
of Ruffia 157
braad-tailed, of Ruta j inAfia 846
of Scotland - 90
wild, in Siberia - 846
ef Spain - 211
walks of Spain - 210
of Tibet - 377
of Turkey - 225
of Zaara, tall as fallow deer 75%
Sheffield - - 39
She'busn « 645
Shellif river - - 759
Sheppey ifle 66
Sheriff, his office, by whon hota ant
in what manner - 26
Shetland, fituation, climate, commerce,
and “population of - at
Dr y.9
Shires, or counties, England firft divided
into, by the great Alfred 13
their government wt,
Shirvan - - 452
Shomadoo pyramid - 397
Shulla ifland - - 497
Shullas ifland ¢ co 504
Siam - ° 405
city of 409
the Sinse of Vrolemy - 405
hiftorical epochs of - 406
unk: own to Europe till the Por-
tuguefe difcoveries - ib,
an alliance with, an object tu the
Englith - 407
Siamps - - 412
Siberia ° 332
Sicily, See Naples.
Sidney ‘Town in Cape Breton 646
Siennefe mountains - 302
Sierra de Abibe mountains 672
de Canataguay mountains 543
Leone, colony of - 762
Morena 208
Sierras Nevedas of St. Mare and of
Merida 672
Shon siver - 46
Sijelmiffa e ii ° 76
Sikokf iffand ° 379
Siliftria - 22
Silk, the original of the early claffics a
vegetable produdtion 405
of Afam - 429
cotton of Sumatra . 499
worm of Peru - 702
Silver mines of S. America 674
INDEX
Silver mines of Spanith N. America
of Spanith S. America
of Afam
of Anfiria
of Bavaria
of Great Bucharia
of Cavavecchia
of China
of Cochin China
of Cornwall
of England
of France
of Hanover
of Heffia
of Japan
of Ireland
near Mendoza
of Norway
of Peru
of Perfia
of Peru
of Parto Rico
of Portugal
of Pore
of Pruffia
of Salzia
of Saxony
of Scotland
of Siberia
of Sicily
of Spain
of Sweden
of Swifft rland
of Independent Aiery
of Turkey
in the ‘Tyrolefe moun-
tains
of Wurtemburg
of New Yorks
ifles -
Simois river a
Sinai mount =
Sindetic Hindoftan
Sindi -
Singan
Sinking fund, its ufe
Sinnaiah Shopka, or the Blue Moune
tein
Sinto fe& Fs
Siquani -
Sircars -
Sirhind -”,
Sirian Sy
Sirmagur -
Siroceo, an enervating wind of Traly
343,
Siry river
or river of Shath
Sitang river
Skalfanda river
Skelligs iflands
Skey ifland -
Skiddaw mountain
Skomar ifle ©
Skyro ifland -
Slaney river °
Stave lake 2
F)
INDE X.
PAGE
Slave trade, commenced in 1527 | 761
Slavonic tribe of Rofi — 141
Ruffian, Mr. Tooke ae Dr.
Guthrie's account of 148
Sligo -> - 107
Sluys - 138
Small-pox, peftilential to the indigenes
of America 740
remarkably fatal i in Spanith
South America - 575
Smyrna - - 823
Sneefial mountains - 249
Snails eaten at Vienna - 172
Snow remains all the year on the
mountains of Scotland - 81
Snowden mountain - - 55
Soan river - - 429
Svana river - - 450
Society ifles - - 523
Sovonufco - - 604
Sveotra ifland - - 494
Sofala - - 765
Sofia, city of - 220
Sosd - - 480
Sogdiana - - 453
Soigne foreft - - 140
Soliman, mountain of e 468
Sollinge Wald foreit - 268
Solomon ifles - 514
Songari river - - 368
Sonora - - 563
Sonfonate ~ - 604
Sooloo iflands 497
Sorbonne, fchool of, at Paris 124
Sorelle - - 643
Soro river - - 257
Soroe ifland — - 248
Sounmi, lake of - 842
Spain - - 193
its colonies detrimental to 198
hiftovical epochs of - 194
New, viceroyalty of - 562
Spanith Town, Jamaica - 662
Domitions
N. America - 561
S. America - 674
the ancient fea port of 216
Patri Sce lake sie - 191
Spice iflands 504
feized by the Engtithi in
1796, andreftored by
the treaty ef 1601 508
Spices, import of, by the Eaft India
« Company from 1796 to 1798 507
Spire, bifhopric of 198
Spirituous liquors, the exceltive ufe
of, in mga - 30
Spitz - 177
Spitsbergen iffand - 159
Sporades - ° 225
Spree river : 291
Spriugs, boiling, of Iceland 247
Stadtholder, his ome “ 228
Staffa ifland « 92
Suladitic caves in N, ‘America $61
-
Stanovoi mountains - 342
Stargard - - 189
Staten land eo 742
Staunton river - - 556
Stauropol - - 338
Stefano, San, ifle - 307
Stepps, or level plains of Afiatic
Ruffia - - 344
Stettin - - 189
Stinhudider lake - 293
Stirling - - 78
Stockholm - - 256
Stonehenge, not a Draidcal monu-
ment - 15
review of the opinions of
various writers on 36
the fupreme court of the
natiou - 76.
Stoney mountains - 542
Stor lake - - 257
Straliund - - 255
Swaibourg - . 126
Stromboli volcano - 303
Stutgard - - 297
Suabia - - 298
Subanveeka river - * 430
Suckhien mountains - 423
Sucetic chain of mountains - 177
Svecoie More, or Holy Sea - 319
Sugar-cane, cultivated near Granada ia
Spain - 207
maple tree of Canara - 644
of the United Stateg
of America 5597
Suicide, common in New Zealand 516
Suir river ~- - 154
Sulifka ifland - - 92
Sumatra ifland - - -a9Y
Sumba ifland - - th,
Sumbava ifland - 497
Sun, Peruvian temple of the 669
Sunda, iflands of, or Sumatran chain 497
Sunderbunds of Hindoftan - 436
Superior lake - - 538
Surat - - 443
Surikarta - - 502
Suinam - - 738
river - - ib,
Sufquehannah river - 556
Swamps, what - - 557
SweDen - - 249
\
hiftorical epochs of = = = 252,
political tao and relae
tions of 258
Swedenbourg, Baron, fouindae of a fect 22
his tenets - th
Swines-fleth, reafon why the poor of
Scotland have an antipathy to 73
Swifs, their attachment to their coun-
try - - 275
Swisser.anp : Q7k
hiftorical epochs of 272
Sword-fith of the Mediterranean 7
Swuckuftoet mountain - 245
Sylt ifland - 248
. abby,
I ;
oe BTS
830
T
INDE xX.
PAGE
Tabby, a mixture of ftone and mortar,
which becomes hard as rock, ufed
in Morocco - 760
Table Bay - - 764
Tacuz river - 750
Tadmor in the defert - 322
Tafilet “ - 959
Tagliamento river - 301
Tai-how lake - 861
Tain - - 79
Fajo river - 267
Taiwan or tonite ifland 363
Taki, fe&t of China Pstiper 353
Talas river 343
Tambuokies - 765
Tana river - - 244
Tanaro river - - 300
Tangier - - 760
Tanna ifland 516
Tao fee, a feét in China Proper 353
Tapettry, rcmarkably old in the cathe-
dral of Bayeux ° 120
Taptee river - 430
Taratita mountains - 751
Taraz - - 472
Farma 692
Tarteffus ifle, the Tarfhith of the Phoe-
niciaus - 193
Tathard ifland - 114
Tatanay - 504
Tatars, account of - 335
Tatary, hiftorical epochs of 473
Cuinese - 363
INDEPENDENT - 472
Tatra mountains - 177
Tatta - - 442
a faline lake - 326
Tavia Poenamoo ifland - 516
Tavora - - 266
Taurida mountains 155
Taurus mountain, Taurian chet 326
a river - - 54
river - 82
Thee lake of 342
Tea, quantity of, exp: wted annually
from ¢ hina - 357
the general ufe of, in England 80
Teak-tree of the Birman empire fupe-
rior to the Englith oak 399
of Hindoftan - 434
Tebriz, or Tauriz - 462
Techucks, fome account of 655
Teck, dukedom of. -, 297
Tedjen or Tedyen river - 466
Teembo - - 762
Tees river - 54
Teeth, tribute of, in New Holland 510
Teffliz - - 461
Tehuacan, or Teguacan - 605
Tehuels - : 740
or Patagonians ab,
Tellicherry ° 445
Teme rivst - ° 53
Tenerif ifland
peak
Tengis lake
Tercera ifland
Terek river
Terkiri lake
Termed
Yernat ifland
Terra Autftralis
del Fuego
Ferme
Tefino river
Tetuan
Texas
Tezcuco lake
Thaluan river
Thames, its rife and coil
Thanet ifle
741
704:
300
760
563
620
398
53
Theatrical exhibitions at furvevat
in Siam
Thomas Sit., al
Thorn
Thun lake
Thur river
Thuringia foreft
Thurfo
Tiber river
Tiber
mountains
Tibetian Alps, northern chain of
408
238. 663
190:
279
278
288°
79
801
871
377
432
Ticuna peifon, from the Nibbee plants
of Surinam
Tides unknown in the Baltic
Tidore ifland
Tiefs river
Tiger, royal of, Bengal
Tigri
Tis river
Tille mountain
Timber floats in Holland
Timor ifland
Timorlaut ifland
739,
7
504
176
435
748
325
245
232
501
514
Tin mines of SpanifhSouth America 688
of Banca ifland
of Cornwall
of England
of Malaya
of Mexico
of New Mexico
of Pegu
of Portugal
of Saxony
of Si
180
Tincal, or crude borax, penoee by a
lake | in Tibet
Tinian, iflaud of
Tirey iflend
Titicaca, lake of
Tobago, ifland of
Tobns
Tobolfk
Tocaima
Tocuyo
Tokareftan
s
Re! ae Se eee” eae ee Se
Sa ee VAT Organ
: PAGE
Tokat - - 329
Toledo 203
Tomahavi a cold wind of South
America 683
Tombuétoo - 774
Tomm river - 341
Tone river - 54
Tongataboo, ifland of - 526
Topaz rock in Saxony - 291
Topia mountain 621
‘Topography, definition of - 1
‘Tornea lake - - 257
river - ib.
Torrifdal river : - 244
Tory ifland - - 114
Toulvufe - « 126
Tounzemahn lake - 896
Tranquebar 238
Tranfports, firft fent to Botany Bay,
bore Jackfon, and ais Cove
in 1787. 509
Tranfylvania, hiftorical epoch of 167
Traun lake 176
Trebbia river - - 301
Tremefin - - 759
Tremiti ifles a7 807
Trent, its rife and courfe 53
Triers ele&torate - 295
Triefte - - 174
Trincomali - - 449
Trinidad ifland 663
Trinity, gulph of the Holy - 741
river - 617
Tripoli - 757
Triftan, da Cunha ifland - 769
Tritonis Palus - 758
Trois Rivitres town . 643
Trolhattam, canal of - 255
Troolies, the largeft leaved plant
known, produced i in Suginam 739
Trappau oe - 173
Tro roy - ~ 322
Truxillo - 604. 697.718
Tfchafatfeh mountain - 164
Tfege To lake - 176
Tuam - - 108
Tubingen - - 207
Tucuman 676,677
Tuffoons, or typhons, flows in the
Chinefe fea ¥14
Fula - 150
or Tola river - 841
or Montezuma river 598. 619
Tulmen is - 716
Tumbes - - 692
Tunbridge waters - 63
Tungufka river . - 341
Tunja - . 706
Tunis 758
formerly the chief feat of Car-
thaginian power - ab.
Tunny fith of the Mediterranean 7
Tunquin 413
Turcomans, or herds of bandit 923
Turfan - - 967
Turgai river - . 482
INDEX.
Turin « wy thaae ' 910
Turkey 1 Asia 325
hiftorical epochs of iw.
in Evrore 212
hiftorical epochs of 214
political importance
and relations of 217
Turkiftan - - 472
Turon harbour - 413
Tufeany - 308
Tutenag mines of China - 862
Tweed river ° 82
Tyne river - - 54
of Secthind - 62
Tyri lake - 245
Tzana lake 75L
or Dembea inte - the
U
Valday mountain: - 153
Valencia, South America - 716
Valenciennes - - 125
Valentia ifland - 11ێ
Valladolid - .- 203.
New Spain - 563
Van lake - - 826
Varano lake - 303
Vath - _ 480
Ucaial river - 669
Vedas of Hindoftan - 425
Vedreta - - 177
Velino river - -. 308
Venice * - 312
Vera Cruz - 563.598
Paz, - . * 564
Veragua - - 564.704
city : 603
Vercelli Fs 810
Verd, Cape de, ian - 770
V erden - 201
Verner, ieoaniatn: Sid 17%
Verfailles palace - 126.
Vefuvius - - 303.
ViGoria - - 716
Vienna - - 172
Vigagora mountain - 767
Ujin river an, 388
Vikten » or Vitor iand - 248
Villa Grande . 7358
Villages, built on. rafts on i the Banjar
river in Borneo - 502
Vincent, St. Ifand - 663
Virgin ifles - th,
Vithnei Volofhok cml. - 150
Uilconfin river - 555
Vifiapour 447
Vitt, north and fouth iflands : 96
Vittula river . - 191
Ulea ifland - -, 521
river 2 - 257
Ulitea ifland - - 525
Ulm ° - 298
Ulabad lake . - 326
Ulug Beg univerfity - 480
Ummerapoora - 396
{
}
\
;
?
4
‘
{
’
\
SE iN mage sti Cate aE
$32
Unjiga ’
Unitarians in England -
or M‘Kenzie’s river
Unnesiiies of Aberdeen -
of Abo
of Spanith Aanerion
ef Auftria _°
of Benares °
ef Buda -
of Calcutta -
ef ( oimbra r
ef Copenhagen °
of Debretzin -
of Denmark ~
ef Dublin -
-of Edinburgh -
of Eng gland. -
of Erlau -
of France ‘ -
of Frankfort on the Oder
of Georsia ‘
of Gottingen -
of Grata -
et Harward in America
of Holland ~
of Infpruck -
of hiel -
of Lima -
of Lunden -
of Marburg -
of the Netherlands
of Parma aud Placentia
of Pavia -
of Penfylvania -
ot Prague -
of Prufiia -
of Rinteln -
of Roflock -
of Ruffia °
of Salamanca
ef Samarcand =
of Scotland °
of Spain °
of Tubingen -
of ‘Turin -
of Vienna
of the United Srates of
America -
of Upfal -
of Wilna
. Wh ifland
Volcas.oes of North Anois
cf South America
of Spanith N. America
of the Andes ~
ow Barren Ifle near the
Andamans a
of Borneo
of the ifland of Bourbon
of New Britain -
of elie Naud of Celebes
of Colima -
of the Cotopathi mountain
of Fayal ifind -
of France, and obfervations
On volcanoes i ge oral
of Gonong iflan
PAGE
23
INDEX,
e
: PAGE
Volcances of Japan . 388
of Jorul'o - 625, 626
of Italy - 303
of the Weit Indies 663
of Kamchatka « 344
of the Manilla iflands 503
of Mexico - 626
of Mindanao ifland 503
of Orizaba - 625. 627
of Peteroa - 727
of Popocatepec - 601
of La Salza - 3912
of Sicily * 306
of Sumatra - 498
of Tanna ifland - 516
of the peak of Tenerif 971
of Terra del Fuego jal
of Ternat ifland - 506
of Tufila - 625
of Vara - 543
Volga river - - 3. 319
Volturno river 306
Vofges or Hunfdruck, mountains of
trance - 1306
Upas tree, of the ifland of C leben 504
the exiftence of, in Java
confuted - 501
Upfal - - 255
univerfity of - 254
Ural mountains - 156
Uralian chain - - 320
Urbanity, a want of, in the United
States of America - 548
Urmia lake - - 467
Urraca range of mountains 624
Unus, or bifoncf Auftria - 179
of the Caucafian moun-
tains - 546
Ufe, or Oufe river - 54
U thant ifland - 195
Utica ifle - - 307
Utewas river . 644
Utreche - - 931
Uvila Pafquaro ~ 605
Vulcans ifle - 308
Uzelett, meuntains of . 758
Wv
Waal river - - 933
Wabath river - 555
W aijoo, or Wadjoo ifland - 14
Wakeheld - - 4)
Wal Jedi river -, 759
Watpseck - - 299
Wares, towns of - 44
Prince of, Suaight d19
Wale t e 774
Wall, great, of C hina Proper asl
W allenftadt lake - 279
Wardbus ifland - 238
Wart river 5
Warfaw - - 189
Wathington city - $49
Wathington college - wb.
Waveitall in Scousad : 91
Waterford
Od eo a 0 0 wt
INDEX.
Wate-ford
Wetling-fireet, « Roman oi
eever river - e
Wener lake e
Werra river
Weftminfter abbey :
Weter river -
Wexford -
Wharn mountain °
height of
Whigs and Tories, their contentions
White mountains -
: Oak mountains -
Qven or Ganviik fea -
Wick
Wicklow mountains ia Ireland
Widows, burning of, in Hindoftan
Wight, ifte of
capital of
Windfor cafile °
Windward iflands
hy, the
9
land
Wines made by French fettlers from
wild on the Ne
Winipic aS
Winnepeg tt! €
Wifmar -
Witim river -
Witten
Wend, eee of, in Scotland
Wool, the commerce and manufafture
of, in England, to the annual value
of 15 sanesieal
Worcefter
wm the quastere and divifiuns of
Want bithopriel
Wye de -
601
235
uaa
942
349
$49
76.
Sui
o19
967
266
833
PAGE
Yarmouth, its fitheries - 42
Yellow Stone river - O17
Yemen ° - 466,46¢
Yenifei river 819. 340
Yeu ifland - - 135
Yezd - - 463
Yokul mountains - 249
Yopez river - 619
Yordas cave - 6a
York - * a7
in Canada 643
jurifdiftion and extent of the pro-
vince 20
and Lancafter, wars 15
avenge satidiaad from the
0.
fort, H Hudfon’s vey - 651
ew - 550
Youghall - 108
Ythan river, formerly famous for its
pearl fitherics 68
ucetan . - 563
Yunnan mines ° 262
2
Zaara - 747. 758. 764
Zabus river - - 759
Zacatecas - - $63
town . 606
Zace‘ula river - - 610
Zahir river - . 762
Zambefi river ° 746
Zanguebss » 745. 765
Zanoni ifle - . 307
Zante ifland ° . 224
Zanzibar ifland - 769
Zarand . ° 466
Zarayos lake - 668
Zawaja lake : ° 753
Zealand iflandls ° 233
New - - 515
Zebu idand - : 503
Zeeland river - 768
Zebra, palace of ° 196
Zell - - 298
Zembas of Africa . 777
Zemindars - 423
Zemlia, Novaya, ifland ° 159
Zemzem, H y Well . 480
Zenderud nw - 466
Zirchnitzer See 1@2
Zizania —_— nearly allied to the
658
Zooker na AbyMfinia 751
ad of the Afni cook of Africa 166
of Spanith Noeth America 629
of Spanith South Ameiica 6e7
of Arabia - 493
of Auftralafia 5 $11
of Auftria er)
< ~ Birman empit 400
of Good it 1
the cape ope _ 764
a Zoology
nie lle pct
¥
a ee i —
834 INDEX
PAGE
Zoology of Ceylon - 450 Zoology of Portugal ~ »
of Chili - 732 of Prullia - .
of China - 362 of Ruffia - .
of Cochin China - 413 of the Ruffian empire in Afia
of Denmark - 246 of the Sandwich iflands = -
of Egypt - 9736 of Scotland -
of England - 6o of Siam -
of France - 133 of Spain - °
of Germany - 269 of Sumatra -
of Hindoftan - 434 of Sweden -
of Holland - 233 of Swifferland -
of New Holland - 488 of Tatary’ -
of Japan - 389 of Tibet -
of Iceland - 246 of Turkey -
of lrelaud - 112 in Afia -
of lialy - 304 of the United States of Ame-
of La Plata - 687 rica -
of Malaya - 403 Zouf - -
of the Netherlands - 140) «Zug lake - -
of Onahcite - 524 Zurich - -
of Papua, or New Guinea 513 lake - -
of Periia - - 469 Zuruchaitu - -
vi Peru ° ° 701 Zwart Berg mountain é
{
'
‘
!
'
THE END.
Strahan and Prefton,
Printeze-Street, London,
Works printed for :
Longman, Hurft, Rees, Orme, and Brown, Paternofter Row:
and Cadell and Davies, Strand.
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4
PINKERTON’s VOYAGES AND TRAVELS
‘IN EUROPE AND ASLA COMPLETE. |
ee a ae ee ee ee
I.
A COLLECTION of the beft and moft interefting VOY AGES
and TRAVELS in EUROPE, being the firft portion of a
GeneraL CoLLECTION oF VoyaGEs AND TRAVELS; forming a
complete Hiftory of the origin and progrefs of difcovery, by Sea
and Land, from the earlieft ages to the prefent time. Preceded
by an Hiftorical Introduction, and Critical Catalogue of Books
of Voyages and Travels, and illuftrated and adorned with nu-
merous engravings, in 6 vols. 4to. price 13]. 138. in boards.
By JOHN PINKERTON,
Author of ‘* Modern Geography,” &c.
aoe Vv
one
In feveral colleétions of this kind, it has happened that the
Voyages and Travels in Europe, by being referved to the laft,
have been either omitted, cr given in fmall detached portions,
The arrangement here adopted, has at leaft fupplied that defeé,
without hazarding a fimilar imperfeétion in relation to any other
quarter of the globe.
YN.
A COLLEC) (UN of the Left and moft interefting VOY AGES
and TRAVELS *» ASIA, mary of which are now tranflated in-
to Englith, being the ‘econd portion of the Generat CoLLece
TION OF VoyaGe ~ »> Pravens; in 4 vols. gto. embellithed with
47 beautiful engravings, price 81. 8s. in boards,
* © The remauader of the work, containing the defcriptions
of Africa and America, will ‘« brought forward in fimilar de-
tached portions, for the a‘: »modation of perfons who ma
prefer this mode of publication. ‘The publication in mon
parts will, however, be continued as before. 44 Parts are
already publithed, price sos, 6a. each, and may be Bad as
¢. ,
abov
#5
Werks printed for Longman & Co. and Cadell && Co.
PINKERTON’s ATLAS.
‘This day is publithed No. 1. to 8. price 11. 18. each, (to be
continued cvery two months,) ;
A NEW MODERN ATLAS. “om PinxerTon. The
Maps are <ngraved in-the Size called Columbier, from Drawings
executed under Mr: Pinkerton’s Eye; with all the Advantages
afforded by the lateft Improvements in Geographical Precifion ;
and they exhibit the utmoft _— the State of the Arts can
admit. It is calculated that the Work will be completed in
Twenty-five Numbers, each containing three Maps.
This day is publifhed in long folio, price 4s. 6d. fewed.
A JUVENILE ATLAS, confifting of Outline ‘Maps, adapted
to an Introduction to Mr. Pinkerton’s Abridgement of his Moders
Geography, and fuited to other geographical works,
By JOHN WILLIAMS,
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